From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Fri Jul 1 05:27:28 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 04:27:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <1309519648.32251.YahooMailRC@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: John Macartney I've forwarded Don's email to someone ... About six months ago, the original and it WAS the original factory TR2 Press Car (in superbly restored condition) came up for sale and was sold to an anonymous buyer for somewhere in the region of US$150k. -Jonmac --------------- ------ --- - Hi List! I'm STILL on catch-up mode in back log of digest reading, & I'm going to put my foot in my mouth & probably regret it. This kind of ticks me off in the fact that people or companies have ssssssssso Much Money to spend & there are So Many Charities that could use it. Ex- PTS YES, I should put myself in this category in the fact that I spend money enjoying my Garage Queen TRIUMPH & going on trips with it. Ex- VTR's But I also do give to charities when possible as John knows & I DO volunteer my time to charities. Now to be fair to the person/company who did make the purchase of that car, MAY BE they too do & give to charities. I'll jump off my soap box, now. BTW- If any replies to this post, then PLEASE Make them to ME (off line), because this is really not TRIUMPH related. Mark B., if you don't post this, then I'll understand & I'm sorry. -Cosmo Kramer From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Jul 1 10:40:29 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 09:40:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Good Deal ?? Message-ID: When my water temp gauge bit the dust, I decided to replace it with a combination Oil Pressure / Water Temp combination (see below) ... this left a nice hole into which I inserted an Smiths electric clock ... (see below) naturally the water gauge failed after a few years so I replaced it with an upgraded version. Screw up #2, while replacing my water temp gauge, I managed to short out my electric clock ... or so I thought, bad clock ... my Dear Wife gave me a new clock for my birthday, when I installed it ... didn't work ! Ah Ha I thought, perhaps I should check the wiring ... bad wiring ... fixed that and of course Both clocks now work. SO ... if anyone is considering this conversion I would be happy to sell them the New Clock, for a nice discount. You can check the website below and see pictures of the replacements I used. I really like the dual gauge, and enjoy having a clock. http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/classic.htm Dual Gauge GD1301-61C078 0-100psi, 90-230F 1/8"BSP, 5/8" Male UNF 6'6' Black Chrome $159.00 Clock CA1100-01C Black Chrome $95.00 -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From geomurphy at windstream.net Fri Jul 1 13:18:48 2011 From: geomurphy at windstream.net (George) Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 15:18:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?Tr3_Dash_Switches=3F?= Message-ID: <000001cc3823$b58588e0$20909aa0$@net> I purchased a used TR3 metal dash complete with instruments and switches from e-bay. I bought the complete dash along with the glove box and hardware for spare parts. I found that the dash has two factory made holes just to the left of the Tach. There was an old toggle switch in one of the holes on the left hand side and the other one was a bit larger hole but did not have a switch or knob that was there originally. My Tr3 does not have any switches or knobs on the left of the Tach. What are these holes for? I assumed that the larger hole was maybe an overdrive switch but what was the toggle switch for? I do not know if the toggle was an original part or not. What is your best guess/ Puzzled. George M. 1960 TR3A Waleska Ga _______________________________________ No infections found in this outgoing message Scanned by iolo System Shield. http://www.iolo.com From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Fri Jul 1 13:31:30 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 12:31:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Oil Cooler Message-ID: <1309548690.98641.YahooMailRC@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List & Bill! I have 2-13 row oil coolers with hoes,etc. , but I haven't installed them. I've found out form people (over the years), that in a summer/winter climate, if a person doesn't have a thermostat to regulate the oil flow to & from the oil cooler to the engine, then sludge will build up quickly. Also. around here in the summer, it may take the oil temp. about an hour to reach 270^F & stay there. So one person advised me NOT to bother installing 1-13 row cooler, bad enough 2-13 row oil coolers. 1- My thinking was, the more rows in an oil cooler, the better it will keep the oil temp down. What say the list on this? & 2- What is the oil temp. with an oil shut-off valve/regulator when the engine's oil is at operating mode with 1-13 row cooler vs a more row cooler? TIA,-Cosmo Kramer From trglory at verizon.net Fri Jul 1 14:10:46 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 16:10:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Dash Switches? In-Reply-To: <000001cc3823$b58588e0$20909aa0$@net> References: <000001cc3823$b58588e0$20909aa0$@net> Message-ID: <004601cc382a$faa3ea50$efebbef0$@net> George; The hole closest to the large gauge is for your heater fan speed control. The outboard switch is for an overdrive switch. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 3:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tr3 Dash Switches? I purchased a used TR3 metal dash complete with instruments and switches from e-bay. I bought the complete dash along with the glove box and hardware for spare parts. I found that the dash has two factory made holes just to the left of the Tach. There was an old toggle switch in one of the holes on the left hand side and the other one was a bit larger hole but did not have a switch or knob that was there originally. My Tr3 does not have any switches or knobs on the left of the Tach. What are these holes for? I assumed that the larger hole was maybe an overdrive switch but what was the toggle switch for? I do not know if the toggle was an original part or not. What is your best guess/ Puzzled. George M. 1960 TR3A Waleska Ga From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Jul 1 14:44:14 2011 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 20:44:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Tr3 Dash Switches? In-Reply-To: <000001cc3823$b58588e0$20909aa0$@net> Message-ID: <1592794182.134230.1309553054254.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> The outboard hole is for the overdrive switch, the inboard one for the heater rheastat... Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag ----- Original Message ----- From: "George" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, July 1, 2011 3:18:48 PM Subject: [TR] Tr3 Dash Switches? I purchased a used TR3 metal dash complete with instruments and switches from e-bay. I bought the complete dash along with the glove box and hardware for spare parts. I found that the dash has two factory made holes just to the left of the Tach. There was an old toggle switch in one of the holes on the left hand side and the other one was a bit larger hole but did not have a switch or knob that was there originally. My Tr3 does not have any switches or knobs on the left of the Tach. What are these holes for? I assumed that the larger hole was maybe an overdrive switch but what was the toggle switch for? I do not know if the toggle was an original part or not. What is your best guess/ Puzzled. George M. 1960 TR3A Waleska Ga _ From ambritts at bellsouth.net Fri Jul 1 15:33:36 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 17:33:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: TR3A Blown Head Gasket (Again) Message-ID: <1D9CF6A63B6347A99257A2A4F598CFA0@AlexPC> I contacted a friend of mine who was an owner of Cometic. They are a gasket manufacturer You can find their site at www.cometic.com. I asked him if he had any thoughts that could help Terry. Here's his response below. NFI. Alex Manzo 59TR3A PS..BTW, this guy is a big LBC guy. Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Blown Head Gasket (Again) > Some thoughts: > > Checking head/block for warpage and deep scratches or pitting > is a good idea. No gasket will seal with those issues. > > Can't tell looking on line if the "stock" gasket is a copper > sandwich or solid copper. If he is using solid copper it needs > to be annealed till its very soft-soft enough if you pick it up > from one end it will bend just with gravity. > > Other than the "stock" type gasket I found a couple composite > (asbestos type) gaskets and a MLS (multilayer steel) on line. > MLS head gaskets are very strong but require a very smooth > finish or they will not seal. Finish should be at least a > 25 Ra. The composite gaskets actually like a relatively rough > surface finish-the rough finish will actually bite into the > composite material. > > There are several types of o-ring gaskets although I could not > find one for a TR3. Fel-pro use to make a gasket with a steel o-ring > inside the steel fire ring around each bore. They were used right > out of the box without needing to machine receiver grooves in the > head or block. The other type of oring gasket uses a solid copper > gasket with stainless orings around each bore. The heads or block > need to have a receiver groove machined around each bore for the > s/s oring to fit into with a max. protrusion of the oring when > sitting in the groove of .005". When the head is clamped onto > the block the s/s rings bite into the copper gasket. > > With all this being said unless he has jacked up his compression > over 10:1 I would use one of the available composite gaskets. > Found one yesterday online for over $250 but found others for > much less. Two sites englishparts.com and scparts.co.uk look > like they are selling the Cometic gasket which can be found > at cometic.com > > Cometic concentrates on their MLS gaskets but still make composite > gaskets but there are better ones out there. Cometic does not apply > any sealant coatings on their composites and the coating definitely > helps sealing the oil and/or water passages. > > Well I rambled on long enough hope this helps some. > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 2:30 PM > Subject: [TR] TR3A Blown Head Gasket (Again) > > >> Blew the head gasket on my 3 again. Last time was at the end of last >> year's driving season, so really only have a thousand miles on the >> replacement. >> >> This time I plan to take the head in to the machine shop to have it >> checked for warpage and cracks. >> >> Also, checking archives I came across the thread about (Marly?) who sells >> head gaskets with an o-ring added, that Randall mentioned solved his head >> gasket problems (until his car was wrecked a couple of years ago). >> >> Is Marly still around, and anybody have his address or one to find a >> similar head gasket? >> >> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A >> New Hampshire From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 1 17:45:38 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 16:45:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Dash Switches? In-Reply-To: <000001cc3823$b58588e0$20909aa0$@net> References: <000001cc3823$b58588e0$20909aa0$@net> Message-ID: <012b01cc3848$fb632000$0301a8c0@randall> In case you are wondering George, the factory always punched the holes in the sheet metal. If the heater and/or OD were not fitted, they just left the holes covered with vinyl. At least that was true for the earlier cars with vinyl glued to the dash. I don't know about the later ones (post 60K TR3A/B). -- Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Jul 1 18:34:00 2011 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 20:34:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Dash Switches? References: <000001cc3823$b58588e0$20909aa0$@net> <012b01cc3848$fb632000$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: My TS76120L was "prepunched", too. I cut the vinyl to mount the O/D switch when I installed it in the original dash. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'George'" ; Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 7:45 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3 Dash Switches? > In case you are wondering George, the factory always punched the holes in > the sheet metal. If the heater and/or OD were not fitted, they just left > the > holes covered with vinyl. > > At least that was true for the earlier cars with vinyl glued to the dash. > I > don't know about the later ones (post 60K TR3A/B). > > -- Randall From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Jul 1 20:30:11 2011 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 22:30:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trailer Ohio to TRF area Message-ID: I might have an empty trailer going from northern ohio to the TRF area and back. Anybody need a car or some big parts hauled? Marty Sukey From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Jul 1 20:51:12 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 02:51:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Crushable Manifold Gasket In-Reply-To: <012b01cc3848$fb632000$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <224173471.140648.1309575072000.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Am down to my last crushable manifold gasket, the only thing that seems to keep its seal. Anyone on the list know where to get more? ...Or, anyone have experience with the one on e-bay below? http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-5903-Ultra-Seal-Manifold/dp/B000BWCG0O/ref=au_pf_pfg_s?ie=UTF8&Model=TR3A%7C2369&n=15684181&s=automotive&Make=Triumph%7C14&Year=1959%7C1959&newCar=1&carId=001 Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From darrellw at ipns.com Fri Jul 1 21:11:43 2011 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 20:11:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Crushable Manifold Gasket In-Reply-To: <224173471.140648.1309575072000.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <224173471.140648.1309575072000.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > Am down to my last crushable manifold gasket, the only thing that seems to keep its seal. Anyone on the list know where to get more? ...Or, anyone have experience with the one on e-bay below? If you have a high-port head: http://catalog.remflex.com/TRIUMPH_Exhaust_Gasket_p/rf20-001.htm -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Jul 1 22:33:17 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 22:33:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Autocross Team Event? In-Reply-To: <175478066.66352.1309452511941.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <175478066.66352.1309452511941.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <74FBFAC6-673F-48E4-8B16-986B2327ADB9@comcast.net> Since only three people showed any interest, you being the third, choosing your own co-driver doesn't look to be a problem. Maybe a demonstration (of something you may never see again-a co- driver required car) instead would be better? Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jun 30, 2011, at 10:48 AM, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > But I get to vet my codriver, not take some randomly-assigned person. From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sat Jul 2 08:30:29 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey) Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 10:30:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Autocross Team Event? In-Reply-To: <74FBFAC6-673F-48E4-8B16-986B2327ADB9@comcast.net> References: <175478066.66352.1309452511941.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <74FBFAC6-673F-48E4-8B16-986B2327ADB9@comcast.net> Message-ID: Count me in (that makes 4?) - I suspect more will be interested when they see the car - and, like blindfold rallies, this should be great fun for spectators Cheers, Jack Mc Sent from my iPhone On Jul 2, 2011, at 12:33 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > Since only three people showed any interest, you being the third, choosing your own co-driver doesn't look to be a problem. > > Maybe a demonstration (of something you may never see again-a co-driver required car) instead would be better? > > Bud Rolofson > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) > 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) > 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) > Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > On Jun 30, 2011, at 10:48 AM, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > >> But I get to vet my codriver, not take some randomly-assigned person. > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jul 2 16:49:43 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 15:49:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil Cooler In-Reply-To: <1309548690.98641.YahooMailRC@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1309548690.98641.YahooMailRC@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <025b01cc390a$55d26610$0301a8c0@randall> > 1- My > thinking was, the more rows in an oil cooler, the better it > will keep the oil temp down. Well, sorta. As you pointed out, you really want to have a thermostat, so the oil gets warm enough to boil off condensation, reduce sludge, etc. So unless you are going racing, generally the thermostat is going to control the oil temperature and a bigger cooler won't help at all. > 2- What is the oil temp. with an oil > shut-off valve/regulator when the engine's > oil is at operating mode with 1-13 > row cooler vs a more row cooler? That depends on a lot of things. But in general, since I don't think you are planning on racing the GQ, I think you are going to mostly see exactly the same temperature no matter which size cooler you use. Which will be somewhere around 200F unless you choose a different thermostat. BTW, both Hayden and DeRale (maybe others) offer an oil cooler adapter that sandwiches between the spin-on filter and housing, and include an integral thermostat. Seems like a nice setup, IF it would fit on a TR. -- Randall From diggle at clear.net.nz Sat Jul 2 17:39:55 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz) Date: Sun, 03 Jul 2011 11:39:55 +1200 Subject: [TR] TR4 cooling Message-ID: <4e0fac4b.82.3d55.3687@clear.net.nz> Electric fan, heres the update. I ended up having my radiator reconditioned and the crank hole put back. The crank hole blocks off about 15% of the cooling. I installed a 10" high performance electric fan (biggest that I could fit) with thermostat, on the front of the radiator and removed the TR6 fan I had. The power on temp is not exact with the fan coming on over a widish range. I think that it might be draining the battery but am not really sure. If it is I will install an alternator with the wide pully from the generator. Overall it was a very worthwhile modification with no more overheating in stop start traffic. I would like to install an overide switch for the fan but have lost the info on how to wire it in so will google. PS I read that our water pumps don't pump at low revs hence they contribute to overheating, can they be modified to fix this problem? From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Sat Jul 2 18:27:56 2011 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 17:27:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] A 1st for me.. Message-ID: <000301cc3918$0ea34080$2be9c180$@rr.com> Today my son and I pulled the engine and tranny together out of the TR4A without removing the transmission cover. I've always pulled the tunnel cover because of the rear mounts, but I have a HVDA tranny which gives me a little more room and could get to all the bolts from underneath. Took about 4 hours from the time I disconnected the battery. Can't wait to see if it slides back in as easily as it came out. Should be in about 3 weeks time. Johnnie (with help from Tommy) '67 TR4A From tr6parts at charter.net Sat Jul 2 19:59:54 2011 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 21:59:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3a wire harness Message-ID: <09B22CEF1D3442BCA79BDD95877A1F7E@Alan> I'am looking for a wire harness for a TR3A. Just picked up a car and the mice or rats did a number on the harness. If you have a workable harness to sell please contact me off list. Thanks, Al Salvatore From lherault at bu.edu Sat Jul 2 21:25:42 2011 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2011 23:25:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 heater fan Message-ID: <006201cc3930$e3f85d20$abe91760$@edu> It would appear that my heater fan has a problem. Short of removing the heater unit is there any way to look at the fan blades, and maybe nudge them to see if it has bound up or if there is something in there that a blade is hitting? Thanks, Ron L From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jul 3 07:34:50 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 09:34:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 heater fan In-Reply-To: <006201cc3930$e3f85d20$abe91760$@edu> References: <006201cc3930$e3f85d20$abe91760$@edu> Message-ID: <490F90547F5E4131869D8F2AAA467264@BobPC> Ron, You need to give us more information such as: was the fan working and it suddenly stopped or is it working but making a hitting noise or can you hear it trying to work but nothing's happening. There's nothing you can get at without removing the heater box itself. I's suggest you start with the blower switch by removing the 3 connections (G, G/Y & G/N) and use a jumper to across the wires to see if that gets the fan going. If it does, you have a bad switch. If it's not the switch, Paul Rego has a great write up on his site for overhauling the heater http://www.74tr6.com/heater.htm Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Ron L'Herault Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2011 11:25 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 heater fan It would appear that my heater fan has a problem. Short of removing the heater unit is there any way to look at the fan blades, and maybe nudge them to see if it has bound up or if there is something in there that a blade is hitting? Thanks, Ron L From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Jul 3 11:56:27 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 11:56:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 heater fan In-Reply-To: <490F90547F5E4131869D8F2AAA467264@BobPC> References: <006201cc3930$e3f85d20$abe91760$@edu> <490F90547F5E4131869D8F2AAA467264@BobPC> Message-ID: <74EC3202-AD12-4696-83C9-4A02856E416A@comcast.net> Great write up and pics. If you go to this much trouble (and it is a major pain to get the heater assembly out) then I'd advise you to put a squirrel cage fan back in the heater and not reuse the bladed fan. You will get twice the flow that you had before which means you can actually feel air flowing out the defroster vents and the heater vent. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jul 3, 2011, at 7:34 AM, Bob Danielson wrote: > Ron, > You need to give us more information such as: was the fan working > and it suddenly stopped or is it working but making a hitting noise > or can you hear it trying to work but nothing's happening. There's > nothing you can get at without removing the heater box itself. > > I's suggest you start with the blower switch by removing the 3 > connections (G, G/Y & G/N) and use a jumper to across the wires to > see if that gets the fan going. If it does, you have a bad switch. > If it's not the switch, Paul Rego has a great write up on his site > for overhauling the heater http://www.74tr6.com/heater.htm > > Bob > > > Bob Danielson > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > 1975 TR6 with: > Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed > Nissan Diff & CVJs > > > > -----Original Message----- From: Ron L'Herault > Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2011 11:25 PM > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 heater fan > > It would appear that my heater fan has a problem. Short of removing > the > heater unit is there any way to look at the fan blades, and maybe > nudge them > to see if it has bound up or if there is something in there that a > blade is > hitting? > > Thanks, > > Ron L > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From adcronin at ameritech.net Sun Jul 3 13:13:17 2011 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (Dan Cronin) Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 15:13:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear Seat, TR3a's Message-ID: <58E9C7A3-6610-468B-8608-7834860BEF3E@ameritech.net> Was going thru my storage area and re-discovered a original black leather rear seat with brackets for the TR's from 22014 to 60000. Could also be used with earlier TR2/3 vehicles, but do not have the "back" for the seat. Leather seating area in great shape (no rips, tears or cracks) as well as the white piping and vinyl trim along the edges. Brackets never re-painted and in very good condition. Noticed Moss has a reproduction for $345.00. Have photos if interested please contact me off list. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Jul 3 15:53:35 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 14:53:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 cooling In-Reply-To: <4e0fac4b.82.3d55.3687@clear.net.nz> References: <4e0fac4b.82.3d55.3687@clear.net.nz> Message-ID: On Sat, Jul 2, 2011 at 4:39 PM, wrote: > > ...installed a 10" high performance electric fan (biggest that > I could fit) with thermostat, on the front of the radiator > and removed the TR6 fan I had.... > So you have a 10" 'pusher' and no fan on the crank? I suppose it will depend on what traffic condtions & temperatures you drive in but that sounds like barely enough for a hot day in town. Was there some particular reason why you eliminated the TR6 fan in the stock position? In my experience that fan (or better yet a Tropical fan) makes a big difference in really hot (100F+) weather. Geo From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Jul 3 20:28:19 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 19:28:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 cooling In-Reply-To: References: <4e0fac4b.82.3d55.3687@clear.net.nz> Message-ID: <1309746499.45877.YahooMailRC@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i ran a 10" fan on my TR3. was way too small. fitted a 14" and its been great, even in this weekends +100 heat. both around town and pulling the car up 3500 feet in 3rd gear. Frank ________________________________ From: Geo Hahn To: diggle at clear.net.nz; Triumphs Sent: Sun, July 3, 2011 2:53:35 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 cooling On Sat, Jul 2, 2011 at 4:39 PM, wrote: > > ...installed a 10" high performance electric fan (biggest that > I could fit) with thermostat, on the front of the radiator > and removed the TR6 fan I had.... > So you have a 10" 'pusher' and no fan on the crank? I suppose it will depend on what traffic condtions & temperatures you drive in but that sounds like barely enough for a hot day in town. Was there some particular reason why you eliminated the TR6 fan in the stock position? In my experience that fan (or better yet a Tropical fan) makes a big difference in really hot (100F+) weather. Geo triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Mon Jul 4 02:53:53 2011 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 09:53:53 +0100 Subject: [TR] Valve timing Message-ID: Could I ask somebody with a little spare time to give me an Idiot's step-by-step guide to valve timing using a timing disc,(Kent) and also can it be done with the head off. My search through the web has only left me more confused as I read conflicting accounts on how to achieve the correct setting. I have new un-marked cam and crank wheels and I am re-installing the original cam, the engine is TR2. Thanks in advance confused john From gprtech at frontiernet.net Mon Jul 4 08:14:35 2011 From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson) Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2011 10:14:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 hood Message-ID: <4E11CACB.2060603@frontiernet.net> I'm getting rid of all my extra stuff from my 8 year old TR3 project to raise some capital towards a Ratco frame for my long postponed TR6 project. First item on the list is a TR2 bonnet, with no rust, needs minor cosmetic work. This is the bonnet style that doesn't have the raised bosses for the hinges. $200 or best offer. You'll need to pick this up. I'm in Monroe, New York. I've got other stuff, which I'll be listing as I wade through my garage. -- George Richardson 1957 TR-3, TS15559L From rjones at wfeca.net Mon Jul 4 12:18:00 2011 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 14:18:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electrical In-Reply-To: <1309354612.63039.YahooMailNeo@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <1309354612.63039.YahooMailNeo@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00CBFAC5-E359-44DE-82F5-6CFAC4F10C70@wfeca.net> How good is a ground from the battery to the engine? Does the ground need to extend to the frame? From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jul 4 12:54:08 2011 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 14:54:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Electrical In-Reply-To: <00CBFAC5-E359-44DE-82F5-6CFAC4F10C70@wfeca.net> References: <1309354612.63039.YahooMailNeo@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> <00CBFAC5-E359-44DE-82F5-6CFAC4F10C70@wfeca.net> Message-ID: <8CE0892E3C22E29-17B4-8307A@webmail-m145.sysops.aol.com> The connection between the battery negative (or positive in the positive ground system) is very critical if you expect the starter to work. This is the worst case condition for the connection to the engine. If it is suitable for the starter it is more than adequate for the charging current from the alternator and the ignition system. The connection between the battery negative and the body is also critical as that is the return path for everything else. The lights, wipers, heater, radio all ground to the body. There are no electrical loads that attach to the frame so the lack of a good ground will not cause anything not to work. There is a potential to buld up a static charge between the frame and body but there is a number of metal connections beetween the two which may create the desired electrrical tie. Things like brake lines, parking brake cable, body mounting bolts. But all these are mounted for physical reasons and any electrical connections are incidental. A braided cable between the body and frame, however, may border on the anal-retentive. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Robert Jones How good is a ground from the battery to the engine? Does the ground need to extend to the frame? From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Jul 4 19:25:28 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 18:25:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake Restrictor Valve Message-ID: My Brake Restrictor Valve, Moss Part #589-030, contains only a spring, if it is a valve should not there be something that closes, like a ball, or piston? Thanks for the expertise -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 4 19:56:54 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 18:56:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake Restrictor Valve In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <024501cc3ab6$d0cf09b0$0301a8c0@randall> > My Brake Restrictor Valve, Moss Part #589-030, contains only a > spring, if it is a valve should not there be something that closes, > like a ball, or piston? Yes, although it's more like a spring-loaded plunger. http://tinyurl.com/3dpt8pa -- Randall From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Jul 5 08:41:04 2011 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 10:41:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR7 wheel question Message-ID: Anybody have a TR7 wheel laying around you could measure? Looking for the backspacing, from the back face to where it contacts the hub. Also the width. Thanks, Marty From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 5 10:07:21 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 09:07:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3 Message-ID: <1309882041.89337.YahooMailRC@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> was sitting around with a bunch of the octagonal guys this weekend, and i made the comment that i was fed up with my squeaky upper A arm rubber bushings. i have squirted all kinds of lubricants on them with no results. the rubber is looking a little rough after only a couple years anyway. i said i was going to use the hard bushing kit (moss part #680-134) to get to a quieter ride. the octagonal guys all said that the material used in those squeak worse that the rubber. has any one made the change and if so what where your results? thanks Frank From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jul 5 11:17:46 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 10:17:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3 In-Reply-To: <1309882041.89337.YahooMailRC@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1309882041.89337.YahooMailRC@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: > ...i said i was going to use the hard bushing kit (moss part #680-134) to > get to a > quieter ride. > No experience with the Prothane bushings, I used the Polyurethane bushings (p/n 681-235) and do not get any squeak. Geo From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jul 5 11:44:57 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 17:44:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3 In-Reply-To: <1309882041.89337.YahooMailRC@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1764991671.220792.1309887897655.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Do not lubricate rubber suspension bushings. They work by distortion, not by sliding. Get new stock bushings. PUT THEM IN DRY. Leave the bolts loose until you get the car back on the tires. Tighten the bolts while the car is naturally at rest. Smile on your squeakless drive. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Frank Fisher" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, July 5, 2011 11:07:21 AM > Subject: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3 > was sitting around with a bunch of the octagonal guys this weekend, > and i made > the comment that i was fed up with my squeaky upper A arm rubber > bushings. > i have squirted all kinds of lubricants on them with no results. > the rubber is looking a little rough after only a couple years anyway. > i said i was going to use the hard bushing kit (moss part #680-134) to > get to a > quieter ride. > the octagonal guys all said that the material used in those squeak > worse that > the rubber. > has any one made the change and if so what where your results? > thanks > Frank > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 5 12:28:44 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 14:28:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3 Message-ID: <22b59.3fc17ed8.3b44b1db@cs.com> In a message dated 7/5/2011 11:31:18 AM Central Daylight Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > the octagonal guys all said that the material used in those squeak worse > that > the rubber. > The Octagonal guys are correct. But only if you don't properly lubricate them. I lub'd my poly bushings with a heavy silicone grease for a squeak-free ride. The first time I used polyurethane bushings on the TR6 they squeaked quite vociferously. Eventually I disassembled the suspension and applied the grease and quiet prevailed. But as Phil points out, the rubber are not supposed to rotate, they deform. If yours are squeaking they have dried up and turned hard and need to be replaced. But the rubber are a bit tricky to install. The poly bushings either go in properly or they don't go in at all. Dave From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Jul 5 12:31:42 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2011 13:31:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?squeaky_front_suspension_TR3?= Message-ID: <20110705183141.E102C187653@autox.team.net> You must lube the hard bushings. Silicone grease seems to last longest. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "Frank Fisher" Cc: Subject: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3 Date: Tue, Jul 5, 2011 12:17 On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: > ...i said i was going to use the hard bushing kit (moss part #680-134) to > get to a > quieter ride. > No experience with the Prothane bushings, I used the Polyurethane bushings (p/n 681-235) and do not get any squeak. Geo triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 5 12:33:24 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 11:33:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3 Message-ID: <1309890804.26589.YahooMailRC@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> and ill probably drill and insert a zerk fitting for occasional maintenance. To: Geo Hahn ; Frank Fisher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, July 5, 2011 11:31:42 AM Subject: Re: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3 You must lube the hard bushings. Silicone grease seems to last longest. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "Frank Fisher" Cc: Subject: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3 Date: Tue, Jul 5, 2011 12:17 On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: > ...i said i was going to use the hard bushing kit (moss part #680-134) to > get to a > quieter ride. > No experience with the Prothane bushings, I used the Polyurethane bushings (p/n 681-235) and do not get any squeak. Geo triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Tue Jul 5 13:42:53 2011 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 20:42:53 +0100 Subject: [TR] valve timing update Message-ID: Thanks to input I am at the following stage: I have attached the timing disc and using my gauge located proper TDC of the crank As the head is off I was next going to fix the gauge to measure movement of inlet No.1 using the tappet Find the position of full lift, i.e fully open of inlet No1 rotating the crank (clockwise) to the correct degree position for the full position of inlet No1 fully open Questions: what is the correct degree position of the crank with No1 inlet fully open, given the use of the original TR2 camshaft? Does this sound correct? Regards John From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Jul 5 13:50:43 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2011 14:50:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?squeaky_front_suspension_TR3?= Message-ID: <20110705195051.0D0B01878A0@autox.team.net> Lotta guys do that. I used to use conventional grease, but it gardens. Enjoy the bushings! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: "spook01 at comcast.net" , "Geo Hahn" Cc: Subject: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3 Date: Tue, Jul 5, 2011 13:33 and ill probably drill and insert a zerk fitting for occasional maintenance. From: "spook01 at comcast.net" To: Geo Hahn ; Frank Fisher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.netSent: Tue, July 5, 2011 11:31:42 AMSubject: Re: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3You must lube the hard bushings. Silicone grease seems to last longest.Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone----- Reply message -----From: "Geo Hahn" To: "Frank Fisher" Cc: Subject: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3Date: Tue, Jul 5, 2011 12:17On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:> ...i said i was going to use the hard bushing kit (moss part #680-134) to> get to a> quieter ride.>No experience with the Prothane bushings, I used the Polyurethane bushings(p/n 681-235) and do not get any squeak.Geotriumphs at autox.team.netDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jul 5 15:00:50 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 14:00:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Joe Earnest Message-ID: I am trying to find Joe Earnest's phone number so that I can ship him some camber compensators he ordered. I need this information for the shipping document. I have already tried to contact Joe but thought this might yield more rapid results. So if anybody can provide that number I will greatly appreciate it and can ship the package immediately. Regards, Joe Curry From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Jul 5 22:56:57 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2011 23:56:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] valve timing update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20110706045712.610A6187655@autox.team.net> Normally you would measure when the tappet has moved the pushrod upwards 0.050" (or the amount of movement the cam builder specifies). I have no idea of the cam timing of the stock cam, but the cam card normally gives an opening degree measurement, a centerline of the lobe measurement and a closing degree measurement. The opening and closing measurements are at a certain amount of lift from fully closed (fully downward). I turn the cam to where it is opened the correct amount, set the crankshaft to the "opening" degree measurement and figure out the closest alignment of chain and cam sprocket for that, and bolt the sprocket on the cam.. I then rotate the crank two turns to get the camshaft back in that position to verify that I got it right the first time. Then I check the closing event to see if it's close to what the cam card says. If it's off by more than a few degrees, I adjust the opening event to split the difference. That gets the centerline of the lobe where you want it. Hopefully someone will pipe up with the settings for your cam and we can get you going. Cheers, Tony Drews At 02:42 PM 7/5/2011, John Gillis wrote: >Thanks to input I am at the following stage: >I have attached the timing disc and using my gauge located proper TDC of the >crank >As the head is off I was next going to fix the gauge to measure movement of >inlet No.1 using the tappet >Find the position of full lift, i.e fully open of inlet No1 >rotating the crank (clockwise) to the correct degree position for the full >position of inlet No1 fully open >Questions: what is the correct degree position of the crank with No1 inlet >fully open, given the use of the original TR2 camshaft? >Does this sound correct? >Regards >John From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Wed Jul 6 02:27:20 2011 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 09:27:20 +0100 Subject: [TR] calculation valve timing Message-ID: Sorry to drag this thread out but need to be REALLY sure I am on the right track I found the inlet figures for the standard cam which are as follows; starts open at 15 BTDC, closes at 55 ABDC. Using a 180 degree timing disc my calculation is 15+180+55 = 250 this would be 110 degrees ATDC as the midpoint (max lift) If I set my crank to the above figure, after first setting up the disc at true TDC of course, then find the max lift point of No1 inlet with my guage and at that point fit the cam wheel and chain. This is the approach written on the face of my Kent Cams timing disc Sound OK? Regards John 1954 TR2 From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jul 6 14:34:26 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 13:34:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] oil cooler TR2/3/4 Message-ID: <1309984466.94500.YahooMailRC@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> so i have had some replies on my thoughts about needing an oil cooler for my TR3. had extra emails off line with Randall. who as you all know never wants to give you opinion, but always gives you facts and indisputable science that you cant argue with! . now I'm thinking i may not need one. but I'm willing to cobble together a low budget experiment to see the results. the only thing i need/desire is the adapter at the filter assembly. the rest i can engineer and build. if any one has the type of adapter that goes between the filter assembly and the filter and is not planing on using it and would care to sell it off. id be interested. thanks Frank From elliottr at rmi.net Wed Jul 6 18:48:55 2011 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2011 19:48:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat In-Reply-To: <4E092E8E.5020901@rmi.net> References: <3a5cf.7c95b718.3b39d95c@cs.com> <4E092E8E.5020901@rmi.net> Message-ID: <4E150277.2040807@rmi.net> I got a reply from Eastwood a few days ago about the Satin Powder Coat. Here is what they said. In regards to your email on is the Satin Black Powder Coat textured? Our TECH TEAM suggests that it has very minor surface texture like very soft sand paper I was surprised as the web site does not indicate that it is textured, even though they have a menu item for textured powders. Plus the Satin Black paint that I have used seems just as smooth as the gloss paints. Anyway, I just thought people might want to know so they didn't make the same wrong assumptions that I did. Roger On 6/27/2011 8:29 PM, Roger Elliott wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > I knew as I as describing it, that I was not being very clear. > Trouble was I couldn't figure out how to describe it. > > But as Don is describing it, it is at the "macro" level. I can feel > the difference. I suppose it is about the same as the difference > between glossy magazine cover and a brown paper bag. Maybe not quite > that much. > > It sounds like it is probably something to do with the way I apply > it. I am going to email Eastwood and ask them. > > What have people found most appropriate for under the bonnet black > items when powder coating? > > Thanks, From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Jul 6 19:05:24 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 18:05:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] seats Message-ID: <1310000724.56690.YahooMailNeo@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> List, I'm beginning to work on my seats (tr-3) and am planning on doing a plywood seat bottom covered with foam. I remember reading other listers mentioning they'd done the same thing. When i measure the seat bottoms I get approximately 7" height on the front of the seat bottom and around 4" at the rear. Did those who built plywood ones make them tapered like that? Also how much foam did they use to cover the top? How firm was that foam? I'd like a firm feel but not wanting to "feel" plywood hardness under the foam. I've found one foam seller on the internet but attempting to figure out which size and which firmness has been challenging. I've also been told that automotive seat foam is much different than normal apholstery foam. Just wondering what others have used. thanks! gary n. From don.hiscock at gmail.com Wed Jul 6 19:52:39 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 20:52:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat In-Reply-To: <4E150277.2040807@rmi.net> References: <3a5cf.7c95b718.3b39d95c@cs.com> <4E092E8E.5020901@rmi.net> <4E150277.2040807@rmi.net> Message-ID: That's interesting to hear, Roger. The satin black powdercoat on the ARB bullbar on my Tacoma is perfectly smooth. I would not have put satin black in the same category as "fine sandpaper". Were I inclined to go powdercoating, I wouldn't go with Eastwood's stuff based on your experience. On 7/6/11, Roger Elliott wrote: > I got a reply from Eastwood a few days ago about the Satin Powder Coat. > Here is what they said. > > In regards to your email on is the Satin Black Powder Coat textured? Our > TECH TEAM suggests that it has very minor surface texture like very soft > sand paper > > I was surprised as the web site does not indicate that it is textured, > even though they have a menu item for textured powders. Plus the Satin > Black paint that I have used seems just as smooth as the gloss paints. > > Anyway, I just thought people might want to know so they didn't make the > same wrong assumptions that I did. > > Roger > > On 6/27/2011 8:29 PM, Roger Elliott wrote: >> Hi Everyone, >> >> I knew as I as describing it, that I was not being very clear. >> Trouble was I couldn't figure out how to describe it. >> >> But as Don is describing it, it is at the "macro" level. I can feel >> the difference. I suppose it is about the same as the difference >> between glossy magazine cover and a brown paper bag. Maybe not quite >> that much. >> >> It sounds like it is probably something to do with the way I apply >> it. I am going to email Eastwood and ask them. >> >> What have people found most appropriate for under the bonnet black >> items when powder coating? >> >> Thanks, > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From pbaize at satx.rr.com Thu Jul 7 07:22:02 2011 From: pbaize at satx.rr.com (Patrick Baize) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 08:22:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat References: <3a5cf.7c95b718.3b39d95c@cs.com><4E092E8E.5020901@rmi.net> <4E150277.2040807@rmi.net> Message-ID: A better powder coat material can be found here http://www.ohiocustomcoatings.com/servlet/StoreFront I have eastwood and Ohio custom powder. most of my eastwood powder is chunky, clumpy. where the ohio custom powder is still powdery. I've had them the same amount of time. I also find I get better results with the Ohio Custom. Patrick 68 Spitfire 71 Stag 74 Spitfire ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Elliott" To: Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2011 7:48 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat >I got a reply from Eastwood a few days ago about the Satin Powder Coat. > Here is what they said. > > In regards to your email on is the Satin Black Powder Coat textured? Our > TECH TEAM suggests that it has very minor surface texture like very soft > sand paper > > I was surprised as the web site does not indicate that it is textured, > even though they have a menu item for textured powders. Plus the Satin > Black paint that I have used seems just as smooth as the gloss paints. > > Anyway, I just thought people might want to know so they didn't make the > same wrong assumptions that I did. > > Roger > > On 6/27/2011 8:29 PM, Roger Elliott wrote: >> Hi Everyone, >> >> I knew as I as describing it, that I was not being very clear. >> Trouble was I couldn't figure out how to describe it. >> >> But as Don is describing it, it is at the "macro" level. I can feel >> the difference. I suppose it is about the same as the difference >> between glossy magazine cover and a brown paper bag. Maybe not quite >> that much. >> >> It sounds like it is probably something to do with the way I apply >> it. I am going to email Eastwood and ask them. >> >> What have people found most appropriate for under the bonnet black >> items when powder coating? >> >> Thanks, > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pbaize at satx.rr.com From coefront at shaw.ca Thu Jul 7 14:22:51 2011 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 14:22:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] For Sale Message-ID: <083A5B1C4F2D4EC2B73621C21912988B@coe> TR8 / TR7 mag wheels for sale. Really nice shape. $ 1,200.00. coefront at shaw.ca 403-281-0363. Mike From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jul 7 16:06:07 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 18:06:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels In-Reply-To: References: <3a5cf.7c95b718.3b39d95c@cs.com><4E092E8E.5020901@rmi.net><4E150277.2040807@rmi.net> Message-ID: <18290F2171F94A3D96EA7083849D7756@DCH6RFC1> Oh all-knowing ones: Can magnesium wheels (torq thrust, American racing Silverstone, came on triumphs) be repaired? My recollection of chemistry would suggest that Mg + heat = nasty explosion, but what if you have a wheel with a cracked rim? Andrew Uprichard From pbaize at satx.rr.com Thu Jul 7 16:47:43 2011 From: pbaize at satx.rr.com (Patrick Baize) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 17:47:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: Satin Black Powder coat IMPORTANT Message-ID: <48B5C48434B64897A2366E9E7B14C325@trixi> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Baize" To: "Roger Elliott" Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 5:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat IMPORTANT > Roger and All > > I forgot to add, don't go by the shipping quote on the website! > > Call or email them, and they will give you a better shipping quote. > > Patrick > 68 Spitfire > 71 Stag > 74 Spitfire > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Roger Elliott" > To: "Patrick Baize" > Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 4:59 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat > > >> Thanks Patrick! >> >> I found Ohio Custom Coatings on the web, but was hesitant to order from >> them - just because I had not heard anything about them. >> >> Roger >> >> -----Original Message----- >>>From: Patrick Baize >>>Sent: Jul 7, 2011 8:22 AM >>>To: Roger Elliott , triumphs at autox.team.net >>>Subject: Re: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat >>> >>>A better powder coat material can be found here >>> >>>http://www.ohiocustomcoatings.com/servlet/StoreFront >>> >>>I have eastwood and Ohio custom powder. most of my eastwood powder is >>>chunky, clumpy. where the ohio custom powder is still powdery. I've >>>had >>>them the same amount of time. I also find I get better results with the >>>Ohio >>>Custom. >>> >>>Patrick >>>68 Spitfire >>>71 Stag >>>74 Spitfire >>> >>> >>> >>>----- Original Message ----- >>>From: "Roger Elliott" >>>To: >>>Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2011 7:48 PM >>>Subject: Re: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat >>> >>> >>>>I got a reply from Eastwood a few days ago about the Satin Powder Coat. >>>> Here is what they said. >>>> >>>> In regards to your email on is the Satin Black Powder Coat textured? >>>> Our >>>> TECH TEAM suggests that it has very minor surface texture like very >>>> soft >>>> sand paper >>>> >>>> I was surprised as the web site does not indicate that it is textured, >>>> even though they have a menu item for textured powders. Plus the Satin >>>> Black paint that I have used seems just as smooth as the gloss paints. >>>> >>>> Anyway, I just thought people might want to know so they didn't make >>>> the >>>> same wrong assumptions that I did. >>>> >>>> Roger >>>> >>>> On 6/27/2011 8:29 PM, Roger Elliott wrote: >>>>> Hi Everyone, >>>>> >>>>> I knew as I as describing it, that I was not being very clear. >>>>> Trouble was I couldn't figure out how to describe it. >>>>> >>>>> But as Don is describing it, it is at the "macro" level. I can feel >>>>> the difference. I suppose it is about the same as the difference >>>>> between glossy magazine cover and a brown paper bag. Maybe not quite >>>>> that much. >>>>> >>>>> It sounds like it is probably something to do with the way I apply >>>>> it. I am going to email Eastwood and ask them. >>>>> >>>>> What have people found most appropriate for under the bonnet black >>>>> items when powder coating? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> >>>> triumphs at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pbaize at satx.rr.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jul 7 16:58:26 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 15:58:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels In-Reply-To: <18290F2171F94A3D96EA7083849D7756@DCH6RFC1> References: <3a5cf.7c95b718.3b39d95c@cs.com><4E092E8E.5020901@rmi.net><4E150277.2040807@rmi.net> <18290F2171F94A3D96EA7083849D7756@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <1310079506.95828.YahooMailRC@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Andrew i think that wheel is now garage decoration. Frank ________________________________ From: Andrew Uprichard To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, July 7, 2011 3:06:07 PM Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels Oh all-knowing ones: Can magnesium wheels (torq thrust, American racing Silverstone, came on triumphs) be repaired? My recollection of chemistry would suggest that Mg + heat = nasty explosion, but what if you have a wheel with a cracked rim? Andrew Uprichard triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From jdinnis at gmail.com Thu Jul 7 17:11:57 2011 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 18:11:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels In-Reply-To: <18290F2171F94A3D96EA7083849D7756@DCH6RFC1> References: <3a5cf.7c95b718.3b39d95c@cs.com> <4E092E8E.5020901@rmi.net> <4E150277.2040807@rmi.net> <18290F2171F94A3D96EA7083849D7756@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: First off most "mag" wheels are aluminum not magnesium. Second, no they cannot be safely repaired regardless of which material they are made from. There are many companies that do repair these wheels, but I can say with some authority that they will not be as strong as they were originally. For normal street use, you might be ok, but you are taking a great risk in using repaired alloy wheels. Most racing organizations specifically ban repairs to alloy wheels. About all they are really good for is the set of wheels that you put on after you get your car to the show field and take off before you leave the show field. On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 5:06 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Oh all-knowing ones: > > Can magnesium wheels (torq thrust, American racing Silverstone, came on > triumphs) be repaired? My recollection of chemistry would suggest that Mg > + > heat = nasty explosion, but what if you have a wheel with a cracked rim? > > Andrew Uprichard > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From triumphstag at gmail.com Thu Jul 7 21:09:50 2011 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 20:09:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] where can I a mechanical smiths temperature gauge from in the US? Message-ID: I'd like a kit if possible where the temp sender part can bolt into the block/head Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Jul 7 21:45:23 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2011 22:45:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?question_on_magnesium_wheels?= Message-ID: <20110708034522.0A20D18786A@autox.team.net> Just FYI, Toyota uses remanned aluminum wheels for cars in dealers body shops. They also warranty same. I had recent experience with this. The exchange wheels are much less expensive than are new. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "John Innis" To: "Andrew Uprichard" Cc: , <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels Date: Thu, Jul 7, 2011 18:11 First off most "mag" wheels are aluminum not magnesium. Second, no they cannot be safely repaired regardless of which material they are made from. There are many companies that do repair these wheels, but I can say with some authority that they will not be as strong as they were originally. For normal street use, you might be ok, but you are taking a great risk in using repaired alloy wheels. Most racing organizations specifically ban repairs to alloy wheels. About all they are really good for is the set of wheels that you put on after you get your car to the show field and take off before you leave the show field. On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 5:06 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Oh all-knowing ones: > > Can magnesium wheels (torq thrust, American racing Silverstone, came on > triumphs) be repaired? My recollection of chemistry would suggest that Mg > + > heat = nasty explosion, but what if you have a wheel with a cracked rim? > > Andrew Uprichard > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Jul 7 23:34:23 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 22:34:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] where can I a mechanical smiths temperature gauge from in the US? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Not sure what Triumph you have, but these are Smiths gauges ... http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/classic.htm >I'd like a kit if possible where the temp sender part can bolt into the >block/head > >Sujit > >-- >Sujit Roy, Realtor >Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA >(408) 839-8359 >roysrealty.com -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From McGaheyRx at aol.com Fri Jul 8 05:55:37 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 07:55:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels Message-ID: Andrew's question specifically names some Magnesium wheels - when you've had sets of both AL and Mg, its pretty easy to tell the difference. I have an American Racing Mg with a hairline crack in one of the spokes and would love to get it repaired - but, so far, everybody I talk to about welding Mg looks at me like I just said "here, hold this stick of dynamite while i light it" Damaged Aluminum wheels, on the other hand, absolutely can be straightened if bent and welded if cracked. Please specify how you can say "with some authority" that companies doing this should not be guaranteeing their work. Can you direct us to any race sanctioning body regulation that prohibits use of repaired wheels? I'm not aware of any and don't see how this could be enforced without x-raying every wheel. Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 7/7/2011 7:37:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jdinnis at gmail.com writes: First off most "mag" wheels are aluminum not magnesium. Second, no they cannot be safely repaired regardless of which material they are made from. There are many companies that do repair these wheels, but I can say with some authority that they will not be as strong as they were originally. For normal street use, you might be ok, but you are taking a great risk in using repaired alloy wheels. Most racing organizations specifically ban repairs to alloy wheels. About all they are really good for is the set of wheels that you put on after you get your car to the show field and take off before you leave the show field. On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 5:06 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Oh all-knowing ones: > > Can magnesium wheels (torq thrust, American racing Silverstone, came on > triumphs) be repaired? My recollection of chemistry would suggest that Mg > + > heat = nasty explosion, but what if you have a wheel with a cracked rim? > > Andrew Uprichard > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Jul 8 13:52:56 2011 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 12:52:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] where can I a mechanical smiths temperature gauge from in the US? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks. It's for a Stag. I want to swap out the electrical one for a bulb type. Anyone know what is the typical thread used for the bit that goes in the block? They have this listed. * *Supplied with 6' 6" capillary. 3/8" BSP female connection. 5/8" UNF male thread also available. Sujit On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 10:34 PM, Bill wrote: > Not sure what Triumph you have, but these are Smiths gauges ... > > http://www.gaugeguys.com/**Smiths/classic.htm > > > > I'd like a kit if possible where the temp sender part can bolt into the >> block/head >> >> Sujit >> >> -- >> Sujit Roy, Realtor >> Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA >> (408) 839-8359 >> roysrealty.com >> > > > -- > "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake > it." - Henry Ford > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 > "Casper" > TS16765L > Wallace, CA > -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From mmarr at notwires.com Tue Jul 5 22:20:04 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 23:20:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Joe Earnest References: Message-ID: <201107082214187.SM02532@HomeOffLMMarr2> Ha! An earnest request from Joe! Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 4:00 PM Subject: [TR] Joe Earnest >I am trying to find Joe Earnest's phone number so that I can ship him some > camber compensators he ordered. I need this information for the shipping > document. From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Jul 8 21:24:19 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 22:24:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels References: Message-ID: <73DDBDAB913D44178ADCB4A1E67C35F8@trigeni.com> Our local tire shop has repaired aluminum alloy wheels twice for my daughter, who drives a pothole magnet. Mike > > Damaged Aluminum wheels, on the other hand, absolutely can be straightened > if bent and welded if cracked. Please specify how you can say "with some > authority" that companies doing this should not be guaranteeing their > work. From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sat Jul 9 05:36:03 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 04:36:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels Message-ID: <1310211363.96416.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! I was told, MANY years ago, that Mg wheels were band from racing, If one was to get a flat & the wheel caught a spark (wheel hitting the pavement or another hard object -guard rail/car) then it would be an instant fire. When Mg ignites , the end result is powered because of the high intense heat being given off. Therefore; I thought all Mg wheels were band for being sold (back in the 60'). I really doubt that they are Mg, most likely AL, but you may have a set of mg. wheels. If that is true, then be glad that they never received a spark or flame to touch them. GET RID of THEM! They are a disaster waiting to haven. -Cosmo Kramer From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sat Jul 9 07:34:06 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:34:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels Message-ID: <79c9c.4ad0c603.3b49b2ce@aol.com> ANYONE INTERESTED IN FOLLOWING COSMO'S ADVICE PLEASE CONTACT ME IMMEDIATELY ! Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 7/9/2011 8:31:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr4a2712 at yahoo.com writes: GET RID of THEM! They are a disaster waiting to haven. From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sat Jul 9 07:35:18 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:35:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels Message-ID: <79d0e.2c995384.3b49b315@aol.com> Cosmo - I'm tempted to say you are completely correct and anybody with a set of American Racing Mg Libres should get rid of them immediately and I will be bravely take them - but you are dead wrong on a couple of points - it is very easy to tell the difference between Mg and Al, once you are familiar with both. A Mg wheel is incredibly light compared to an Al wheel of the same size and bare Mg has a very different color and surface sheen compared to Al. It is ridiculous to suggest that anybody who has seen both can't tell the difference. - while incredibly, dangerously, and explosively flammable once ignited, a solid Mg object absolutely cannot be ignited by incidental contact with a spark or open flame. Top drag racers used to use Mg manifolds - incredibly dangerous once ignited, but not that easy to ignite. A Mg wheel is extremely unlikely to ignite unless it is broken and the tire and car around it are consumed with flame first. - you are correct that Mg wheels were likely last made in the 60s - they are extremely rare and very valuable now - I would not trust them for competition use, due to their age and possibility of cracks, but (properly restored) they are uniquely attractive and are very much sought-after period pieces. Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 7/9/2011 8:31:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr4a2712 at yahoo.com writes: Hi List! I was told, MANY years ago, that Mg wheels were band from racing, If one was to get a flat & the wheel caught a spark (wheel hitting the pavement or another hard object -guard rail/car) then it would be an instant fire. When Mg ignites , the end result is powered because of the high intense heat being given off. Therefore; I thought all Mg wheels were band for being sold (back in the 60'). I really doubt that they are Mg, most likely AL, but you may have a set of mg. wheels. If that is true, then be glad that they never received a spark or flame to touch them. GET RID of THEM! They are a disaster waiting to haven. -Cosmo Kramer triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jul 9 08:32:59 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 09:32:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?question_on_magnesium_wheels?= Message-ID: <20110709143301.47055187654@autox.team.net> A pothole magnet!!!!! :-) Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Michael Marr" To: , , Cc: , <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels Date: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 22:24 Our local tire shop has repaired aluminum alloy wheels twice for my daughter, who drives a pothole magnet. Mike > > Damaged Aluminum wheels, on the other hand, absolutely can be straightened > if bent and welded if cracked. Please specify how you can say "with some > authority" that companies doing this should not be guaranteeing their > work. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jul 9 08:51:55 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 09:51:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?question_on_magnesium_wheels?= Message-ID: <20110709145154.52A58187654@autox.team.net> We used magnesium wheels on formula B cars into the late '70's. So they were in use at least that long. I have some real "mags" I have mounted up for my sunbeam tiger, but don't use them for the street. Mags don't spark when they hit something. They shatter! I can tell you from bitter and expensive experience! But the main problem with real mags is corrosion. You know, come to think on it, I wonder what my Lotus Else wheels are made from; they are light enough! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Cosmo Kramer" To: Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels Date: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 06:36 Hi List! I was told, MANY years ago, that Mg wheels were band from racing, If one was to get a flat & the wheel caught a spark (wheel hitting the pavement or another hard object -guard rail/car) then it would be an instant fire. When Mg ignites , the end result is powered because of the high intense heat being given off. Therefore; I thought all Mg wheels were band for being sold (back in the 60'). I really doubt that they are Mg, most likely AL, but you may have a set of mg. wheels. If that is true, then be glad that they never received a spark or flame to touch them. GET RID of THEM! They are a disaster waiting to haven. -Cosmo Kramer triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From emanteno at comcast.net Sat Jul 9 09:50:51 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 10:50:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Servo Question Message-ID: All, I have just received a rebuilt servo and it came without the white plastic fitting for the vacuum line. I have the fitting that I need in another servo unit, but I don't know how to get it out and have a strong desire not to break it while trying to get it out. Has someone out there been there, done that? THANKS, Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From rbtr3a at cox.net Sat Jul 9 10:17:17 2011 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 16:17:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] Idle oil pressure Message-ID: <70754937-1310228237-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-105969810-@b17.c19.bise6.blackberry> What should it be GT6 Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Jul 9 10:59:59 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:59:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels In-Reply-To: <20110709145154.52A58187654@autox.team.net> References: <20110709145154.52A58187654@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1310230799.7767.YahooMailRC@web120215.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Formula 1 cars still race on mag wheels. right now this weekend. Frank To: Cosmo Kramer ; Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, July 9, 2011 7:51:55 AM Subject: Re: [TR] question on magnesium wheels We used magnesium wheels on formula B cars into the late '70's. So they were in use at least that long. I have some real "mags" I have mounted up for my sunbeam tiger, but don't use them for the street. Mags don't spark when they hit something. They shatter! I can tell you from bitter and expensive experience! But the main problem with real mags is corrosion. You know, come to think on it, I wonder what my Lotus Else wheels are made from; they are light enough! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Cosmo Kramer" To: Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels Date: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 06:36 Hi List! I was told, MANY years ago, that Mg wheels were band from racing, If one was to get a flat & the wheel caught a spark (wheel hitting the pavement or another hard object -guard rail/car) then it would be an instant fire. When Mg ignites , the end result is powered because of the high intense heat being given off. Therefore; I thought all Mg wheels were band for being sold (back in the 60'). I really doubt that they are Mg, most likely AL, but you may have a set of mg. wheels. If that is true, then be glad that they never received a spark or flame to touch them. GET RID of THEM! They are a disaster waiting to haven. -Cosmo Kramer triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Jul 9 11:36:04 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 13:36:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels In-Reply-To: <79d0e.2c995384.3b49b315@aol.com> References: <79d0e.2c995384.3b49b315@aol.com> Message-ID: Sought after indeed: last night two sold on eBay for $575. There was a third but it was cracked, so, according to many of you, it should be discounted. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of McGaheyRx at aol.com Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 9:35 AM To: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] question on magnesium wheels Cosmo - I'm tempted to say you are completely correct and anybody with a set of American Racing Mg Libres should get rid of them immediately and I will be bravely take them - but you are dead wrong on a couple of points - it is very easy to tell the difference between Mg and Al, once you are familiar with both. A Mg wheel is incredibly light compared to an Al wheel of the same size and bare Mg has a very different color and surface sheen compared to Al. It is ridiculous to suggest that anybody who has seen both can't tell the difference. - while incredibly, dangerously, and explosively flammable once ignited, a solid Mg object absolutely cannot be ignited by incidental contact with a spark or open flame. Top drag racers used to use Mg manifolds - incredibly dangerous once ignited, but not that easy to ignite. A Mg wheel is extremely unlikely to ignite unless it is broken and the tire and car around it are consumed with flame first. - you are correct that Mg wheels were likely last made in the 60s - they are extremely rare and very valuable now - I would not trust them for competition use, due to their age and possibility of cracks, but (properly restored) they are uniquely attractive and are very much sought-after period pieces. Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 7/9/2011 8:31:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr4a2712 at yahoo.com writes: Hi List! I was told, MANY years ago, that Mg wheels were band from racing, If one was to get a flat & the wheel caught a spark (wheel hitting the pavement or another hard object -guard rail/car) then it would be an instant fire. When Mg ignites , the end result is powered because of the high intense heat being given off. Therefore; I thought all Mg wheels were band for being sold (back in the 60'). I really doubt that they are Mg, most likely AL, but you may have a set of mg. wheels. If that is true, then be glad that they never received a spark or flame to touch them. GET RID of THEM! They are a disaster waiting to haven. -Cosmo Kramer triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Jul 9 11:49:47 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 13:49:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dash Grounding Question Message-ID: As I install the dash on my TR3 project, I'd like to 'reinforce' the grounding of all electrics behind the dash. As some of you may remember, the body of my car has been powder coated as has the dash fascia. I am grinding down to metal as necessary for grounding but in some cases I am concerned how good that connection will be. 1) I have a battery cutoff switch mounted on a plate behind the hydraulic 'section' of the firewall. It connects the ground strap from the battery to the ground bolt on the starter as well as to the body. There is no direct connection between the battery and the body. 2) I am thinking about running a ground 'circuit' from the switch (or one of the other connections) to each of the instruments and electrical connections (probably in series). These include: a) overdrive switch/overdrive b) heater switch/heater c) panel lights in speedo/tach d) dash center console (to the grounding screw that everything else connects with) e) and/or directly to the gauges f) lighter/accessory plugs. g) (not installed) provision for a radio What gauge wire should I use? Most grounds appear to be 14g. Should I increase the size? Some of the switches are grounded by their direct contact with the fascia. What alternatives might there be for attaching a grounding strap? As always - all suggestions, comments, or helpful hints are appreciated. Carl 1961 TR3A TS81802LO Tampa, Florida From jdinnis at gmail.com Sat Jul 9 13:32:03 2011 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 14:32:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels In-Reply-To: <20110709145154.52A58187654@autox.team.net> References: <20110709145154.52A58187654@autox.team.net> Message-ID: IRL cars still use Mg wheels, and there are at least two companies making them for the series. They retail for about $5k each. On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 9:51 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > We used magnesium wheels on formula B cars into the late '70's. So they > were in use at least that long. > I have some real "mags" I have mounted up for my sunbeam tiger, but don't > use them for the street. > Mags don't spark when they hit something. They shatter! I can tell you > from bitter and expensive experience! > But the main problem with real mags is corrosion. > You know, come to think on it, I wonder what my Lotus Else wheels are made > from; they are light enough! > > > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Cosmo Kramer" > To: > Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels > Date: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 06:36 > > > Hi List! > I was told, MANY years ago, that Mg wheels were band from racing, If > one was to > get a flat & the wheel caught a spark (wheel hitting the pavement > or another > hard object -guard rail/car) then it would be an instant fire. > When Mg ignites , > the end result is powered because of the high intense heat > being given off. > > Therefore; I thought all Mg wheels were band for being sold > (back in the 60'). I > really doubt that they are Mg, most likely AL, but you > may have a set of mg. > wheels. If that is true, then be glad that they never > received a spark or flame > to touch them. > > GET RID of THEM! They are a > disaster waiting to haven. > -Cosmo Kramer > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From zoboherald at aol.com Sat Jul 9 13:56:28 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 15:56:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels In-Reply-To: <79d0e.2c995384.3b49b315@aol.com> References: <79d0e.2c995384.3b49b315@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CE0C896D2757E7-12A8-1E88B@webmail-m129.sysops.aol.com> This all raises a question: are "magnesium" wheels pure magnesium or are they an alloy (presumably with aluminum)? ISTR, meanwhile, that the crankcase of the VW Beetle engine (and most of its derivatives) was magnesium.... --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From fishplate at charter.net Sat Jul 9 14:25:49 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 16:25:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 In-Reply-To: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E18B94D.3040306@charter.net> On 6/30/2011 8:42 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > I'm wondering if that's MY PROBLEM of getting 'vapor lock' when on long drives > in 90^ temperatures, because of the Fan Shroud that I fabricated to have > better > than 90% of the outside air forced through the radiator& not escaping > around > it. > Thus restricting 'air flow' to the rest of the engine bay? Speaking of catching up... Get some dryer duct tubing and make a guide to vent some air from the shroud to the carburetter bowls. Then drive somewhere where it's hot. Go inside, have a 15-minute beer. Then come back out and see if it starts. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From chandler.rick at comcast.net Sat Jul 9 14:49:47 2011 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 13:49:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dash Grounding Question Message-ID: <4D123002CE4E4FA7AD72AE77308D26C5@RickPC> I completely rewired my TR3A this past winter. I constructed a common ground point on the facia and on the speedo and tach, respectively. I then connected each of the three points with ground wires, each spliced with spade connectors, for ease of disassembly, and then to a serious ground point in the engine bay on the sheet metal next to the battery. This point is connected directly to the battery by a heavy cable. AWG 14 can handle a 400-W load within the chassis, and is adequate for this job. The inter-facia wiring can be 16 gauge, or even 18 gauge. Use the spade-connector trick on the hot leads as well for easy servicing. I use relays (5) for all of my heavier loads, to avoid any large currents in the cockpit area. Rick in Seattle 1960 Triumph TR3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special 1972 Norton 750 Commando Combat 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Jul 9 16:29:08 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 18:29:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Today was a good day Message-ID: <4E189DF4.9140.52DE76D5@localhost> I finally got all the mechanicals done re-installing the gearbox into my GT6. It's been a long time, time being so short. Got the bellhousing bolts tightened down, the engine lowered down onto the rear mounts. Then I lowered the car onto its front wheels so it could roll (it rolls!), then re-bolted the driveshaft. Still have to do the interior, bleed the clutch, re-attach the battery. But the rest of this day will be devoted to rest and beer and baseball. The interior can wait for another day. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Jul 9 19:11:35 2011 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 21:11:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint Question Message-ID: Hi List, I hope there is someone out there that can help me with a painting question..? I am in the middle of painting the engine compartment, trunk, and passenger compartment in preparation of lowering the tub onto my frame. I am using a LIMCO 123 base coat and GT Select clear coat. I had painted the engine compartment two weekends ago and it turned out great. The color is Royal Blue. Unfortunately, during the night dirt dropped down onto the tops of the inner fenders! So, I sanded down the inner fenders, actually I sanded down the entire engine compartment with 600 wet/dry. As a side note, I had purchased a GC-3 filter/dryer about 3 weeks ago and just realized this morning that the inner dessicant element wasn't installed correctly and could not have worked but it turns out there were no moisture issues. This morning, I wiped down the entire car with degreaser but just let it air dry like I have always done before. Then, I used a tack rag to remove any remaining dust and started to spray the base coat on the engine compartment. As I sprayed the inner fenders, fisheye's appeared!!!! It was hot today, and humid but I have painted (primer) before in this weather. Does anybody have any ideas what could have caused the fisheye?? I have read that I should have used the "wipe on/wipe off" method with the degreaser. Could there have been some reaction painting more base over the previous paint? Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 Triumph TR4A IRS From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Jul 9 19:22:47 2011 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 21:22:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. Message-ID: <612A4CB687DB482790A714BF80B98B2D@DaveLaptop> List, I just ran across another website that recommended the following steps; 1.Wash car down with a mixture of Dawn dishwashing soap and water. 2. Wet sand surfaces smooth. ( I have 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper). 3. Wash down car again with Dawn again. Anybody concur out there? Thanks, Dave Connitt From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Jul 9 19:26:39 2011 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 21:26:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Correction to last post on paint fisheye Message-ID: <2862A8172E0240F389BA1B89871CCF39@DaveLaptop> List, Correction.... I just ran across another website that recommended the following steps; 1.Wash car down with a mixture of Dawn dishwashing soap and water. 2. Wet sand surfaces smooth. ( I have 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper). 3. Wipe down with degreaser using "wipe on' wipe off" method using wipes designed for that purpose. Anybody concur out there? Thanks, Dave Connitt From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jul 9 19:37:59 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 18:37:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Idle oil pressure In-Reply-To: <70754937-1310228237-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-105969810-@b17.c19.bise6.blackberry> References: <70754937-1310228237-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-105969810-@b17.c19.bise6.blackberry> Message-ID: <04c701cc3ea2$008768c0$0301a8c0@randall> > What should it be GT6 Sorry I didn't answer your text, Ronnie. Was out in the desert under a Stag, with the phone in the toolbox for safekeeping. The GT6 is basically like the TR2-6; idle oil pressure can be anything from 8-10 psi to 70 psi without anything necessarily being "wrong" except maybe a tired engine and/or thin oil. According to my book, the warning light should be off if the pressure is above 5 psi. -- Randall From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Jul 9 20:56:25 2011 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 22:56:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. In-Reply-To: <94.27.25264.19C091E4@ecin4> References: <94.27.25264.19C091E4@ecin4> Message-ID: <0812449417B5431AB8A46EC1341BBDB0@DaveLaptop> Thanks, I think you are right.. I just basically wiped wet degreaser on with one microfiber towel and left it there. Do you think using a microfiber cloth towel is safe or should I pick up some of the paper towels made for the degreaser? I will talk to my paint supplier next week. In the mean time, I think I will wash it all down with the Dawn detergent before I do anything else. I did put brakes on my car last weekend and used some brake cleaner in the garage but I wouldn't think that stuff has any silicone products in it would you? Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: spook01 at comcast.net To: Dave Connitt Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 10:19 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. Dave, What you describe will certainly help, but go ahead and get a small can of anti fisheye material from your paint supplier. Use it according to directions and your fisheye problems will disappear. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Dave Connitt" To: Subject: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. Date: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 20:22 List, I just ran across another website that recommended the following steps; 1.Wash car down with a mixture of Dawn dishwashing soap and water. 2. Wet sand surfaces smooth. ( I have 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper). 3. Wash down car again with Dawn again. Anybody concur out there? Thanks, Dave Connitt triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jul 9 21:31:10 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 20:31:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Paint Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <04f901cc3eb1$d1422bd0$0301a8c0@randall> > Does anybody have any ideas what could have caused the fisheye? Just a thought : do you use DOT 5 brake fluid? It is apparently not too difficult to manage to form an aerosol with tiny droplets hanging in the air. If one of those droplets lands on your surface, it will cause a fisheye no matter how well you've just cleaned it. -- Randall From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Jul 9 21:51:06 2011 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 23:51:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. In-Reply-To: <4E191ABA.60205@snet.net> References: <612A4CB687DB482790A714BF80B98B2D@DaveLaptop> <4E191ABA.60205@snet.net> Message-ID: <6CB17295CEE04F36BE2603117CC72CDE@DaveLaptop> Thanks John, I think I will talk to my paint supplier next week and put together a plan for next weekend. It really took me by surprise as I was just respraying the same base and clear over itself again. It was pretty hot and humid today too and that may have had something to do with it too.. Who knows. Thanks, Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Mitchell" To: "Dave Connitt" Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 11:21 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. > That's how I would do it. Could be there was silicone residue in the dirt > that fell on it. Make sure you don't press too hard with the tack rag when > doing your final dusting after wiping down with wax and grease remover. > John Mitchell > > On 7/9/2011 9:22 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: >> List, >> I just ran across another website that recommended the following steps; >> 1.Wash car down with a mixture of Dawn dishwashing soap and water. >> 2. Wet sand surfaces smooth. ( I have 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper). >> 3. Wash down car again with Dawn again. >> >> Anybody concur out there? >> Thanks, >> Dave Connitt >> >> >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Jul 9 21:55:13 2011 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 23:55:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint Question In-Reply-To: <04f901cc3eb1$d1422bd0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <04f901cc3eb1$d1422bd0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <0A081051D88D4F579504EF95E44CBB6F@DaveLaptop> No, There isn't any brake fluid anywhere near the Triumph yet.. I did put new rear rotors and pads on my regular car last weekend though and I used some of spray can brake cleaner but I wouldn't think there was any silicone in that? It's disapointing but recoverable. Thanks, Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Dave Connitt'" ; Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 11:31 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Paint Question >> Does anybody have any ideas what could have caused the fisheye? > > Just a thought : do you use DOT 5 brake fluid? It is apparently not too > difficult to manage to form an aerosol with tiny droplets hanging in the > air. If one of those droplets lands on your surface, it will cause a > fisheye no matter how well you've just cleaned it. > > -- Randall From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Jul 9 21:55:13 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 22:55:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Correction to last post on paint fisheye In-Reply-To: <2862A8172E0240F389BA1B89871CCF39@DaveLaptop> References: <2862A8172E0240F389BA1B89871CCF39@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <20110710035535.E7EB8187660@autox.team.net> Not sure, but anything with silicone is a major source of fisheyes... Tony At 08:26 PM 7/9/2011, Dave Connitt wrote: >List, >Correction.... > >I just ran across another website that recommended the following steps; >1.Wash car down with a mixture of Dawn dishwashing soap and water. >2. Wet sand surfaces smooth. ( I have 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper). >3. Wipe down with degreaser using "wipe on' wipe off" method using wipes >designed for that purpose. > >Anybody concur out there? >Thanks, >Dave Connitt From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sat Jul 9 22:22:28 2011 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 21:22:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. Message-ID: <961235.56911.qm@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Dave- fisheye eliminator can affect the gloss of your paint. I know this is too late, but rather than repaint, i would have knocked off the nibs with 1500 or 2000 wet/dry then hand polished. Chad in tulsa. On Sat Jul 9th, 2011 9:56 PM CDT Dave Connitt wrote: >Thanks, >I think you are right.. I just basically wiped wet degreaser on with one >microfiber towel and left it there. Do you think using a microfiber cloth >towel is safe or should I pick up some of the paper towels made for the >degreaser? I will talk to my paint supplier next week. In the mean time, I >think I will wash it all down with the Dawn detergent before I do anything >else. I did put brakes on my car last weekend and used some brake cleaner in >the garage but I wouldn't think that stuff has any silicone products in it >would you? >Dave Connitt > ----- Original Message ----- > From: spook01 at comcast.net > To: Dave Connitt > Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 10:19 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. > > > Dave, > What you describe will certainly help, but go ahead and get a small can of >anti fisheye material from your paint supplier. Use it according to >directions and your fisheye problems will disappear. > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Dave Connitt" > To: > Subject: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. > Date: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 20:22 > > > List, > I just ran across another website that recommended the following steps; > 1.Wash car down with a mixture of Dawn dishwashing soap and water. > 2. Wet sand surfaces smooth. ( I have 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper). > 3. Wash down car again with Dawn again. > > Anybody concur out there? > Thanks, > Dave Connitt > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jul 10 03:15:09 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 02:15:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] squeaky front suspension TR3 In-Reply-To: <1309882041.89337.YahooMailRC@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1309882041.89337.YahooMailRC@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <053001cc3ee1$de2126a0$0301a8c0@randall> > i made > the comment that i was fed up with my squeaky upper A arm > rubber bushings. FWIW, I was reading through some old TSOA newsletters; and one of them has the comment that "squeaks and groans" from the front suspension are usually from the _lower_ inner pivots. "The Standard-Triumph Service Department now recommends application of a solution of alcohol and glycerine to the bushings." -- September 1960 issue, Triumph TSOA Newsletter -- Randall From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Sun Jul 10 05:48:48 2011 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 07:48:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] question on magnesium wheels Message-ID: <380-220117010114848546@earthlink.net> My 2007 BMW motorcycle has magnesium valve covers. Actually, magnesium is still widely used in motorcycle racing. Right now, you can go to Ducati USA's online store and order magnesium wheels, engine cases, camshaft covers, etc. I wonder if they can ship them via UPS, since they are a hazardous material? ;) Cheers, Tom From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jul 10 07:49:59 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 09:49:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud In-Reply-To: <4E18B94D.3040306@charter.net> References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4E18B94D.3040306@charter.net> Message-ID: I still find my TR3 difficult to start after driving on a hot day. The idea that a shroud may be restricting air flow to the rest of the engine bay is intriguing. What is the consensus of the list as to the value of a shroud? How many people use them versus not? Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 4:26 PM To: Cosmo Kramer; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 On 6/30/2011 8:42 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > I'm wondering if that's MY PROBLEM of getting 'vapor lock' when on long drives > in 90^ temperatures, because of the Fan Shroud that I fabricated to have > better > than 90% of the outside air forced through the radiator& not escaping > around > it. > Thus restricting 'air flow' to the rest of the engine bay? Speaking of catching up... Get some dryer duct tubing and make a guide to vent some air from the shroud to the carburetter bowls. Then drive somewhere where it's hot. Go inside, have a 15-minute beer. Then come back out and see if it starts. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Sun Jul 10 07:57:45 2011 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 13:57:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 flywheel bolts locking plates Message-ID: Just pulled the flywheel from my 74 TR6 to have it resurfaced in preparation for the new clutch & pressure plate. The 4 large bolts holding the flywheel had no locking plates on them. The factory ROM does not mention them but the Haynes does. Any consensus as to whether they are used on a late TR6? Thanks Larry Miceli Mount Dora, FL 74 TR6 73 Stag 58 TR3 Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From bjzwissler at gmail.com Sun Jul 10 08:02:40 2011 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 10:02:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint Fisheye In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E19B100.6000808@gmail.com> Dave, I just repainted all the interior plastic dash and trim pieces on my TR8. I know that ArmorAll had been applied in the past (I did it) and ArmorAll is notorious for causing fisheye. I got similar advice from the paint shop - wash with Dawn and scuff the surfaces (for the plastic I used ScotchBrite pads). The other direction he gave was not to use any cloth that had been washed or dried with fabric softener. He said that fabric softener in the cloth will contaminate the surface and cause fisheye. For plastic he said not to use any solvents as that would soften the plastic and could cause the contaminants to be permanently absorbed. I got good results after following the advice with one exception. I used the Dawn but it didn't seem to be getting the job done - I was still getting beading on the surface - I switched to using detergent (not solvent) based "degreaser" (from Sam's Club) straight from the bottle and then rinsing. I still got limited beading after that, but went ahead and had not problem. Ben.... Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 On 7/9/2011 11:55 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Message: 8 > Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 21:26:39 -0400 > From: "Dave Connitt" > To: > Subject: [TR] Correction to last post on paint fisheye > Message-ID:<2862A8172E0240F389BA1B89871CCF39 at DaveLaptop> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > List, > Correction.... > > I just ran across another website that recommended the following steps; > 1.Wash car down with a mixture of Dawn dishwashing soap and water. > 2. Wet sand surfaces smooth. ( I have 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper). > 3. Wipe down with degreaser using "wipe on' wipe off" method using wipes > designed for that purpose. > > Anybody concur out there? > Thanks, > Dave Connitt From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jul 10 08:20:35 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 10:20:35 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Servo Question Message-ID: <4edc.1f38ee4c.3b4b0f33@cs.com> In a message dated 7/9/2011 11:50:36 AM Central Daylight Time, emanteno at comcast.net writes: > I have just received a rebuilt servo and it came without the white > plastic > fitting for the vacuum line. I have the > fitting that I need in another servo unit, but I don't know how to get it > out and have a strong desire not > to break it while trying to get it out. Has someone out there been there, > done that? > As I recall, it just twists and pulls out. There is a bit of a barb but the rubber bushing does all the sealing. Of course, the rubber may have lost some of its resiliance over the years and this may make removal a problem. Maybe some penetrating oil will help. I changed mine out but that was 15 - 20 years ago. Dave From emanteno at comcast.net Sun Jul 10 08:44:46 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 09:44:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Servo Question In-Reply-To: <01ADE38A-8CF7-4ED1-827A-21C73E83AB60@mac.com> References: <01ADE38A-8CF7-4ED1-827A-21C73E83AB60@mac.com> Message-ID: On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 11:55 AM, Jay Snable wrote: > I rebuilt my servo quite a few years back, and if I remember correctly that > piece just pulls out (there may be a slight barb to hold it in). I'd try to > get some lubrication in there and work it out slowly - it's probably pretty > brittle by now! > Thanks to the advice from Jay Snable, John Mitchell, Tim Hutchison, and Jerry V V, I was able to successfully extract my fitting this AM. Thanks for the help, guys. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From jmitch at snet.net Sun Jul 10 09:27:32 2011 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 11:27:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 flywheel bolts locking plates In-Reply-To: <20110710144514.4E28A187665@autox.team.net> References: <20110710144514.4E28A187665@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4E19C4E4.3000301@snet.net> No locking plates on my 76 TR6 John Mitchell On 7/10/2011 9:57 AM, lgmtr6 wrote: > Just pulled the flywheel from my 74 TR6 to have it resurfaced in preparation for the new clutch& pressure plate. The 4 large bolts holding the flywheel had no locking plates on them. The factory ROM does not mention them but the Haynes does. Any consensus as to whether they are used on a late TR6? > Thanks > Larry Miceli > Mount Dora, FL > 74 TR6 > 73 Stag > 58 TR3 > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jul 10 09:40:16 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 11:40:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud In-Reply-To: References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4E18B94D.3040306@charter.net> Message-ID: <000c01cc3f17$ac153350$043f99f0$@net> If it is overheating with the shroud - removing it will make it worse. You need the air flow directed through the radiator to cool the water that flows through the engine. BTDT -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 9:50 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud I still find my TR3 difficult to start after driving on a hot day. The idea that a shroud may be restricting air flow to the rest of the engine bay is intriguing. What is the consensus of the list as to the value of a shroud? How many people use them versus not? Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 4:26 PM To: Cosmo Kramer; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 On 6/30/2011 8:42 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > I'm wondering if that's MY PROBLEM of getting 'vapor lock' when on long drives > in 90^ temperatures, because of the Fan Shroud that I fabricated to have > better > than 90% of the outside air forced through the radiator& not escaping > around > it. > Thus restricting 'air flow' to the rest of the engine bay? Speaking of catching up... Get some dryer duct tubing and make a guide to vent some air from the shroud to the carburetter bowls. Then drive somewhere where it's hot. Go inside, have a 15-minute beer. Then come back out and see if it starts. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Jul 10 10:08:30 2011 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 12:08:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com><4E18B94D.3040306@charter.net> Message-ID: <900262D1724C4CE2A93C68F4B59E0130@DCS78M81> Both of my 3's have the shroud and I don't have any problems. One has the stock fuel pump/stock carbs the other is more modified with electric fuel pump and HS6 on the TR4A manifold. Neither has any problems starting in HOT Florida weather -- after having been driven then stopped, etc. The modified car has an electric fan as a puller and the stock 3 has a pusher auxiliary fan -- so maybe that's the difference. Jere Dotten has the TR6 yellow fan on his car and experiences no problems either (he has the shroud). It will be interesting to see what others say. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 9:49 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud >I still find my TR3 difficult to start after driving on a hot day. The >idea > that a shroud may be restricting air flow to the rest of the engine bay is > intriguing. What is the consensus of the list as to the value of a > shroud? > How many people use them versus not? > > Andrew Uprichard From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jul 10 10:31:06 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 12:31:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud In-Reply-To: <000c01cc3f17$ac153350$043f99f0$@net> References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4E18B94D.3040306@charter.net> <000c01cc3f17$ac153350$043f99f0$@net> Message-ID: <43336B2DFE6A441A982C4120E726C8AC@DCH6RFC1> No - the point is, it is not overheating, just difficult to start after sitting on a hot day. -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 11:40 AM To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 shroud If it is overheating with the shroud - removing it will make it worse. You need the air flow directed through the radiator to cool the water that flows through the engine. BTDT -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 9:50 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud I still find my TR3 difficult to start after driving on a hot day. The idea that a shroud may be restricting air flow to the rest of the engine bay is intriguing. What is the consensus of the list as to the value of a shroud? How many people use them versus not? Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 4:26 PM To: Cosmo Kramer; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 On 6/30/2011 8:42 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > I'm wondering if that's MY PROBLEM of getting 'vapor lock' when on long drives > in 90^ temperatures, because of the Fan Shroud that I fabricated to have > better > than 90% of the outside air forced through the radiator& not escaping > around > it. > Thus restricting 'air flow' to the rest of the engine bay? Speaking of catching up... Get some dryer duct tubing and make a guide to vent some air from the shroud to the carburetter bowls. Then drive somewhere where it's hot. Go inside, have a 15-minute beer. Then come back out and see if it starts. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jul 10 11:35:01 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 13:35:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 flywheel bolts locking plates In-Reply-To: <20110710144515.1CA2C187939@autox.team.net> References: <20110710144515.1CA2C187939@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <087EF7AFCDA4447890A12A1FDE041242@BobPC> No locking plate on my '75 and neither Moss or TRF Blue Book show one either. Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: lgmtr6 Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 9:57 AM To: Triumph Mailing List Subject: [TR] TR6 flywheel bolts locking plates Just pulled the flywheel from my 74 TR6 to have it resurfaced in preparation for the new clutch & pressure plate. The 4 large bolts holding the flywheel had no locking plates on them. The factory ROM does not mention them but the Haynes does. Any consensus as to whether they are used on a late TR6? Thanks Larry Miceli Mount Dora, FL 74 TR6 73 Stag 58 TR3 Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jul 10 11:58:16 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 10:58:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 flywheel bolts locking plates In-Reply-To: <20110710144516.BE94918795D@autox.team.net> References: <20110710144516.BE94918795D@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <058a01cc3f2a$f2172080$0301a8c0@randall> > The 4 > large bolts holding the flywheel had no locking plates on > them. The factory ROM does not mention them but the Haynes > does. When any conflict arises, the Haynes is usually wrong. The factory SPC also doesn't list the lock tabs, I don't believe they should be there. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jul 10 12:00:39 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 11:00:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud In-Reply-To: References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com><4E18B94D.3040306@charter.net> Message-ID: <058b01cc3f2b$479d3350$0301a8c0@randall> > I still find my TR3 difficult to start after driving on a hot > day. The idea > that a shroud may be restricting air flow to the rest of the > engine bay is > intriguing. What is the consensus of the list as to the > value of a shroud? > How many people use them versus not? I presume this is a TR3A, with the wide grill. Adding the shroud to my early 3A (which did not originally have one) definitely helped it run cooler at freeway speeds. -- Randall From januaryw at gmail.com Sun Jul 10 15:14:45 2011 From: januaryw at gmail.com (January Williams) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 14:14:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A for sale Message-ID: Time to pass my TR4A along, driver; BRG, 83,000 mi OD, panasports; many extras including spare engine, transmissions (2), OD, regular steel wheels, boxes of parts &c Has period accessories, tropical fan, console, badge bar, luggage rack &c. Contact me off list for complete details. Location: Salem Oregon January Williams 66 TR4A CTC 74217 LO From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Jul 10 18:00:07 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 17:00:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud In-Reply-To: <43336B2DFE6A441A982C4120E726C8AC@DCH6RFC1> References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4E18B94D.3040306@charter.net> <000c01cc3f17$ac153350$043f99f0$@net> <43336B2DFE6A441A982C4120E726C8AC@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <4E1A3D07.9000004@gmail.com> On 7/10/11 9:31 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > No - the point is, it is not overheating, just difficult to start after > sitting on a hot day. > > Sounds like good old fashion heat soak from your description. You might try a heat shield between the carbs and the exhaust manifold. Stainless is best because of its low heat conductivity. An electric radiator fan wired to a temp. controlled relay that is always hot will help keep the temperatures down right after the engine is shut down on a hot day. And you really do want to have the stock radiator shroud in place. Teriann Still happily playing around with the new limited slip and pleased as punch with the lack of right rear wheel spin and better control punching out of tight corners. Whoopie!!!! From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Jul 10 19:41:05 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 21:41:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] My Birthday - Thanks Message-ID: Another birthday passes - been on this list for a very long time and at my ripe age of 51 I've been reflecting on how much the Scions of Lucas have helped me (intentionally or unintenntionally) over the last 20 years or so. Thanks so much. Just today, I ran across some ancient printouts of emails from Andy Mace - yellowed and cobwebbed - where he was trying to help me with some fender beading for my TR2... Chris From thenicholls at verizon.net Sun Jul 10 20:17:57 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 21:17:57 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] My Birthday - Thanks Message-ID: <2117398889.2741989.1310350677483.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> Happy birthday Chris, only been on the list for 6 years but have learned that friends are out there. Enjoy, Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Jul 10, 2011 10:16:06 PM, ccsimonsen at gmail.com wrote: Another birthday passes - been on this list for a very long time and at my ripe age of 51 I've been reflecting on how much the Scions of Lucas have helped me (intentionally or unintenntionally) over the last 20 years or so. Thanks so much. Just today, I ran across some ancient printouts of emails from Andy Mace - yellowed and cobwebbed - where he was trying to help me with some fender beading for my TR2... Chris triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Jul 11 07:51:36 2011 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:51:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 flywheel bolts locking plates In-Reply-To: <20110710144504.D18AF18794B@autox.team.net> References: <20110710144504.D18AF18794B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <004401cc3fd1$a7c08ab0$f741a010$@net> You can use blue loctite on them...only blue Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of lgmtr6 Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 9:58 AM To: Triumph Mailing List Subject: [TR] TR6 flywheel bolts locking plates Just pulled the flywheel from my 74 TR6 to have it resurfaced in preparation for the new clutch & pressure plate. The 4 large bolts holding the flywheel had no locking plates on them. The factory ROM does not mention them but the Haynes does. Any consensus as to whether they are used on a late TR6? Thanks Larry Miceli Mount Dora, FL 74 TR6 73 Stag 58 TR3 Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Jul 11 09:12:29 2011 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 11:12:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. In-Reply-To: <961235.56911.qm@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <961235.56911.qm@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <50B57F56932E463794B6DA2952414A12@DaveLaptop> Thanks for all the great suggestions. I have read that using fisheye eliminator should be a last resort. I still need to talk to my paint supplier but that will be later this week. It seems the main cause is contamination and I think I will run that down first. I was researching on a painting website and one of the comments was that if you start to use fisheye reducer you have to continue to use it. Someone suggested to wash the entire surface down with a solution of Dawn dishwashing soap and water BEFORE I even start sanding. Then sand down to smooth paint and wash again. Then I have to wait until it is completly dry, tack rag it and paint. I may not use the degreaser at all... I used the mid temp reducer that is good from 75 - 90 degrees which is what I used the last time but it was slightly cooler that first day. Next weekend is another try.. Thanks again for all the help, Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad" To: ; ; Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 12:22 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. > Dave- fisheye eliminator can affect the gloss of your paint. I know this > is too late, but rather than repaint, i would have knocked off the nibs > with 1500 or 2000 wet/dry then hand polished. Chad in tulsa. > > On Sat Jul 9th, 2011 9:56 PM CDT Dave Connitt wrote: > >>Thanks, >>I think you are right.. I just basically wiped wet degreaser on with one >>microfiber towel and left it there. Do you think using a microfiber cloth >>towel is safe or should I pick up some of the paper towels made for the >>degreaser? I will talk to my paint supplier next week. In the mean time, I >>think I will wash it all down with the Dawn detergent before I do anything >>else. I did put brakes on my car last weekend and used some brake cleaner >>in >>the garage but I wouldn't think that stuff has any silicone products in it >>would you? >>Dave Connitt >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: spook01 at comcast.net >> To: Dave Connitt >> Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 10:19 PM >> Subject: Re: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. >> >> >> Dave, >> What you describe will certainly help, but go ahead and get a small can >> of >>anti fisheye material from your paint supplier. Use it according to >>directions and your fisheye problems will disappear. >> >> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone >> >> ----- Reply message ----- >> From: "Dave Connitt" >> To: >> Subject: [TR] Update on paint fisheye situation.. >> Date: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 20:22 >> >> >> List, >> I just ran across another website that recommended the following steps; >> 1.Wash car down with a mixture of Dawn dishwashing soap and water. >> 2. Wet sand surfaces smooth. ( I have 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper). >> 3. Wash down car again with Dawn again. >> >> Anybody concur out there? >> Thanks, >> Dave Connitt >> >> >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net >> >> >>triumphs at autox.team.net >> >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe/Manage: >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jul 11 14:53:32 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 14:53:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud In-Reply-To: References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4E18B94D.3040306@charter.net> Message-ID: <0A3D561B-3A88-4C4B-8179-97F829BC8B7E@flash.net> No shroud, no problems. Bill TS30766 Sent from mobile Bill On Jul 10, 2011, at 7:49 AM, "Andrew Uprichard" wrote: > I still find my TR3 difficult to start after driving on a hot day. The idea > that a shroud may be restricting air flow to the rest of the engine bay is > intriguing. What is the consensus of the list as to the value of a shroud? > How many people use them versus not? > > Andrew Uprichard > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff > Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 4:26 PM > To: Cosmo Kramer; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 > > On 6/30/2011 8:42 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: >> I'm wondering if that's MY PROBLEM of getting 'vapor lock' when on long > drives >> in 90^ temperatures, because of the Fan Shroud that I fabricated to have >> better >> than 90% of the outside air forced through the radiator& not escaping >> around >> it. >> Thus restricting 'air flow' to the rest of the engine bay? > > Speaking of catching up... > > Get some dryer duct tubing and make a guide to vent some air from the > shroud to the carburetter bowls. Then drive somewhere where it's hot. > Go inside, have a 15-minute beer. Then come back out and see if it starts. > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Jul 11 17:00:32 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 19:00:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers Message-ID: <10E22040313548F3B5699DAED1ABA3EB@valued9cfc0b6f> I can't seem to find a source for the Triumph seat belt stickers for the square chrome plated aircraft style buckles, the ones Moss sell...I thought I came across a supplier that had the open book logo for them, but can't seem to locate...Appreciate it. Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Jul 11 17:38:46 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 18:38:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers Message-ID: <1521630667.2461533.1310427526860.JavaMail.root@vznit170060> Dave, I have been looking for the same for my very original 1972 Triumph TR6. The only thing close I saw was a NOS set on Ebay, and they went for $600+. If you find them, please post to the list. I also explored if anyone did restoration on such an item, and came up blank. Good luck. Craig Vienna, VA Jul 11, 2011 07:35:02 PM, dwillner at ptd.net wrote: I can't seem to find a source for the Triumph seat belt stickers for the square chrome plated aircraft style buckles, the ones Moss sell...I thought I came across a supplier that had the open book logo for them, but can't seem to locate...Appreciate it. Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From bill_beecher at flash.net Mon Jul 11 17:56:17 2011 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 17:56:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 on PBS Message-ID: Watching Miss Marple last night on PBS' "Mystery" and here comes the bad guy rolling up in a neat powder blue TR3A. Plenty of camera time spent on the car. I believe the time period for the show is around 1953-54, guess they couldn't find a nice TR2. Bill From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Jul 11 18:21:24 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 20:21:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] My Birthday - Thanks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE0E40C4C260E5-17F8-2C158@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> Happy birthday, Chris, from the "yellowed and cobwebbed" Andy Mace ;) P.S. Oh wait, you meant the printouts were yellowed and cobwebbed...didn't you? ;) *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simo ccsimonsen at gmail.com .Another birthday passes - been on this list for a very long time and t my ripe age of 51 I've been reflecting on how much the Scions of ucas have helped me (intentionally or unintenntionally) over the last 0 years or so. Thanks so much. Just today, I ran across some ncient printouts of emails from Andy Mace - yellowed and cobwebbed - here he was trying to help me with some fender beading for my TR2... From spitlist at cox.net Mon Jul 11 18:35:10 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 17:35:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers In-Reply-To: <10E22040313548F3B5699DAED1ABA3EB@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <10E22040313548F3B5699DAED1ABA3EB@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <83A256878C7C41BDA81B1C7D2942EA47@Vista> These? http://members.cox.net/spitlist/P7111146.JPG Here is the web site for all my decals I offer http://members.cox.net/spitlist/centercaps.html Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 4:01 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers I can't seem to find a source for the Triumph seat belt stickers for the square chrome plated aircraft style buckles, the ones Moss sell...I thought I came across a supplier that had the open book logo for them, but can't seem to locate...Appreciate it. Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From spitlist at cox.net Mon Jul 11 18:39:36 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 17:39:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers In-Reply-To: <1521630667.2461533.1310427526860.JavaMail.root@vznit170060> References: <1521630667.2461533.1310427526860.JavaMail.root@vznit170060> Message-ID: <1EC847C0F34D4A4E94253BAE28839C72@Vista> Ha! Mine are only 6 bucks a pair so for the 600 that you saw for the NOS ones you could outfit 100 cars. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 4:39 PM To: dwillner at ptd.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers Dave, I have been looking for the same for my very original 1972 Triumph TR6. The only thing close I saw was a NOS set on Ebay, and they went for $600+. If you find them, please post to the list. I also explored if anyone did restoration on such an item, and came up blank. Good luck. Craig Vienna, VA Jul 11, 2011 07:35:02 PM, dwillner at ptd.net wrote: I can't seem to find a source for the Triumph seat belt stickers for the square chrome plated aircraft style buckles, the ones Moss sell...I thought I came across a supplier that had the open book logo for them, but can't seem to locate...Appreciate it. Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Jul 11 18:57:58 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 19:57:58 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers Message-ID: <1541337267.2465244.1310432278154.JavaMail.root@vznit170060> Well then, where do I send my $12 and how do you want paid? Jul 11, 2011 08:39:46 PM, spitlist at cox.net wrote: Ha! Mine are only 6 bucks a pair so for the 600 that you saw for the NOS ones you could outfit 100 cars. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 4:39 PM To: dwillner at ptd.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers Dave, I have been looking for the same for my very original 1972 Triumph TR6. The only thing close I saw was a NOS set on Ebay, and they went for $600+. If you find them, please post to the list. I also explored if anyone did restoration on such an item, and came up blank. Good luck. Craig Vienna, VA Jul 11, 2011 07:35:02 PM, dwillner at ptd.net wrote: I can't seem to find a source for the Triumph seat belt stickers for the square chrome plated aircraft style buckles, the ones Moss sell...I thought I came across a supplier that had the open book logo for them, but can't seem to locate...Appreciate it. Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Jul 11 20:39:45 2011 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 02:39:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 kick panel hole Message-ID: I'm in the process of restoring a 58 TR3A and with the fenders off, there is a big hole almost 8" across and looks to be factory cut in the passenger right side foot well. It looks like a great place for water to get in. What is it for and should I seal it up? Thanks Larry Miceli Mount Dora, Fla 58 TR3A 73 STAG 74 TR6 Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 11 22:10:23 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 21:10:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 kick panel hole In-Reply-To: <20110712025823.D5D5F1878AA@autox.team.net> References: <20110712025823.D5D5F1878AA@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <018101cc4049$9f8eade0$0301a8c0@randall> > I'm in the process of restoring a 58 TR3A and with the > fenders off, there is a big hole almost 8" across and looks > to be factory cut in the passenger right side foot well. It > looks like a great place for water to get in. What is it for > and should I seal it up? I believe it was a provision for a factory radio speaker: http://fwd4.me/06O5 Up to you whether you want to seal it, but I don't think doing so will keep you any drier. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jul 11 22:23:26 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 22:23:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 on PBS Message-ID: Watching Miss Marple last night on PBS' "Mystery" and here comes the bad guy rolling up in a neat powder blue TR3A. Plenty of camera time spent on the car. I believe the time period for the show is around 1953-54, guess they couldn't find a nice TR2. Bill From dwillner at ptd.net Tue Jul 12 05:04:22 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 07:04:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers References: <10E22040313548F3B5699DAED1ABA3EB@valued9cfc0b6f> <83A256878C7C41BDA81B1C7D2942EA47@Vista> Message-ID: <84493EDD1DCD42C2A33F4AAFE4D222B2@valued9cfc0b6f> Perfect, yes those are the ones...thanks Joe. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: "'davewillner'" ; Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 8:35 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers > These? > > http://members.cox.net/spitlist/P7111146.JPG > > Here is the web site for all my decals I offer > > http://members.cox.net/spitlist/centercaps.html > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner > Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 4:01 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers > > I can't seem to find a source for the Triumph seat belt stickers for the > square chrome plated aircraft style buckles, the ones Moss sell...I > thought > I > came across a supplier that had the open book logo for them, but can't > seem > to > locate...Appreciate it. > > Dave Willner > Stroudsburg PA > 59 TR3A > 70 MGB > 70 BSA 441 VS > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 12 06:09:41 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:09:41 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers Message-ID: <2d7b5.5851e414.3b4d9385@cs.com> In a message dated 7/11/2011 8:35:25 PM Central Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > These? > > http://members.cox.net/spitlist/P7111146.JPG > > Here is the web site for all my decals I offer > > http://members.cox.net/spitlist/centercaps.html > > Joe > > That's a whole lot less than $600. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 12 06:16:44 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:16:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 kick panel hole Message-ID: <2dbae.2d9d2f56.3b4d952c@cs.com> In a message dated 7/11/2011 9:57:58 PM Central Daylight Time, lgmtr6 at yahoo.com writes: > I'm in the process of restoring a 58 TR3A and with the fenders off, there > is a big hole almost 8" across and looks to be factory cut in the > passenger right side foot well. It looks like a great place for water to get in. > What is it for and should I seal it up? > My 57 had the same. It looks suspiciously like a speaker mount. Sure, seal it up with an 8 inch weather proof speaker. Seriously, did you see evidence of water damage originating from that opening? I didn't. I had plenty from everywhere else but I think this is sufficiently shrouded. Besides, who drives these things in the rain anymore? Dave From Loumetelko at aol.com Tue Jul 12 08:27:59 2011 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 10:27:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 on PBS Message-ID: Watching Miss Marple last night on PBS' "Mystery" and here comes the bad guy rolling up in a neat powder blue TR3A. Plenty of camera time spent on the car. I believe the time period for the show is around 1953-54, guess they couldn't find a nice TR2. Would have been even tougher to find a 3A since they did not arrive until late 1957 Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana! From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jul 12 08:47:05 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:47:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 kick panel hole In-Reply-To: <2dbae.2d9d2f56.3b4d952c@cs.com> References: <2dbae.2d9d2f56.3b4d952c@cs.com> Message-ID: I had the same hole, because a PO had had a radio installed I presumed it to be the speaker hole. I just cut a piece of tin and closed it up. I have been caught in a couple of rain storms since then, but nothing comes in. If you are not going to have a radio, seal it up and just be sure your fender and sealer plate are properly installed. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:17 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 kick panel hole In a message dated 7/11/2011 9:57:58 PM Central Daylight Time, lgmtr6 at yahoo.com writes: > I'm in the process of restoring a 58 TR3A and with the fenders off, > there is a big hole almost 8" across and looks to be factory cut in > the passenger right side foot well. It looks like a great place for water to get in. > What is it for and should I seal it up? > My 57 had the same. It looks suspiciously like a speaker mount. Sure, seal it up with an 8 inch weather proof speaker. Seriously, did you see evidence of water damage originating from that opening? I didn't. I had plenty from everywhere else but I think this is sufficiently shrouded. Besides, who drives these things in the rain anymore? Dave triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jul 12 09:38:13 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 09:38:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 on PBS In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I am thinking their technical advisor was late for work that day... Or, the car belonged to a contributor and this is how they said 'Thank you'. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 8:28 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 on PBS Watching Miss Marple last night on PBS' "Mystery" and here comes the bad guy rolling up in a neat powder blue TR3A. Plenty of camera time spent on the car. I believe the time period for the show is around 1953-54, guess they couldn't find a nice TR2. Would have been even tougher to find a 3A since they did not arrive until late 1957 Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana! triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Tue Jul 12 11:04:49 2011 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 12:04:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers In-Reply-To: <2d7b5.5851e414.3b4d9385@cs.com> References: <2d7b5.5851e414.3b4d9385@cs.com> Message-ID: If you want to send me the $600, I'll get some for Joe and send them to you. Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:09:41 -0400 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers > > In a message dated 7/11/2011 8:35:25 PM Central Daylight Time, > spitlist at cox.net writes: > > These? > > > > http://members.cox.net/spitlist/P7111146.JPG > > > > Here is the web site for all my decals I offer > > > > http://members.cox.net/spitlist/centercaps.html > > > > Joe > > > > > > That's a whole lot less than $600. > > Dave > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Jul 12 11:17:33 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 10:17:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph seat belt buckle stickers In-Reply-To: <84493EDD1DCD42C2A33F4AAFE4D222B2@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <10E22040313548F3B5699DAED1ABA3EB@valued9cfc0b6f> <83A256878C7C41BDA81B1C7D2942EA47@Vista> <84493EDD1DCD42C2A33F4AAFE4D222B2@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: In case anyone is interested I have one (1) early seat belt, yours for the postage ... Perfect, yes those are the ones...thanks Joe. Dave -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 12 11:29:22 2011 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 17:29:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 kick panel hole In-Reply-To: References: <2dbae.2d9d2f56.3b4d952c@cs.com> Message-ID: Thanks everyone. General consensus is that it was a speaker hole. It's been welded up and will get a good coat of rust preventative before the fender goes back on the car. Larry Miceli Mount Dora, Fla 58 TR3 73 Stag 74 TR6 Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:47:05 To: ; Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 kick panel hole I had the same hole, because a PO had had a radio installed I presumed it to be the speaker hole. I just cut a piece of tin and closed it up. I have been caught in a couple of rain storms since then, but nothing comes in. If you are not going to have a radio, seal it up and just be sure your fender and sealer plate are properly installed. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:17 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 kick panel hole In a message dated 7/11/2011 9:57:58 PM Central Daylight Time, lgmtr6 at yahoo.com writes: > I'm in the process of restoring a 58 TR3A and with the fenders off, > there is a big hole almost 8" across and looks to be factory cut in > the passenger right side foot well. It looks like a great place for water to get in. > What is it for and should I seal it up? > My 57 had the same. It looks suspiciously like a speaker mount. Sure, seal it up with an 8 inch weather proof speaker. Seriously, did you see evidence of water damage originating from that opening? I didn't. I had plenty from everywhere else but I think this is sufficiently shrouded. Besides, who drives these things in the rain anymore? Dave triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 12 12:34:52 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 11:34:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 reversing problem Message-ID: <1310495692.29804.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> friends TR6 struggles to move in reverse gear. i remember a discussion from a few months ago. who's car was it and what was your problem and solution? thanks Frank From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 12 13:56:11 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 12:56:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] whats my carb type? Message-ID: <1310500571.17750.YahooMailNeo@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> TR3 TS41366L born 24th December 1958. have SU carbs with the push on connectors to the float bowl. #147 in moss book. H1F6? or HS6? thanks Frank From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jul 12 15:56:31 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 15:56:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] whats my carb type? In-Reply-To: <1310500571.17750.YahooMailNeo@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1310500571.17750.YahooMailNeo@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Frank, If original, you have type H6 carbs. HS6 came later on the TR4, I no nothing of an H1F6 maybe someone else can shed someone light here. There should be a small tab on the top of the float bowl with 'AUC878' stamped on it The TRA guide doesn't address this change, that I could find, but the Moss catalog says it was at the end of 1958, 12/24/58 may very well have been the last day of production for the year if they took a week for Christmas and New Years off. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 1:56 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] whats my carb type? TR3 TS41366L born 24th December 1958. have SU carbs with the push on connectors to the float bowl. #147 in moss book. H1F6? or HS6? thanks Frank triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jul 12 16:24:50 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 22:24:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 reversing problem In-Reply-To: <1310495692.29804.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <710697149.536621.1310509490068.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Does it have overdrive? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Frank Fisher" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 1:34:52 PM > Subject: [TR] TR6 reversing problem > friends TR6 struggles to move in reverse gear. > i remember a discussion from a few months ago. > who's car was it and what was your problem and solution? > thanks > Frank From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 12 16:44:42 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 15:44:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] whats my carb type? In-Reply-To: <1310500571.17750.YahooMailNeo@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1310500571.17750.YahooMailNeo@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <02c401cc40e5$4af3ec90$0301a8c0@randall> > TR3 TS41366L born 24th December 1958. > have SU carbs with the push on connectors to the float bowl. > #147 in moss book. > H1F6? or HS6? If they look like the Moss illustration, then they are H6 carbs with the later push-on connectors. I don't believe there was a 'clean' crossover date, but TS39781LO had the push-on connectors as well. Although they still have domes & bowls somewhat like the H6, the choke & throttle arrangements for the HS6 are considerably different. There is an illustration in the Moss TR2-4 parts book, a few pages later than the H6 page. And HIF6 don't even have external float bowls (instead the bowls are built into the bottom of the carb, somewhat similar to ZS carbs). -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 12 16:45:11 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 15:45:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 reversing problem In-Reply-To: <710697149.536621.1310509490068.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1310495692.29804.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <710697149.536621.1310509490068.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1310510711.74533.YahooMailNeo@web120212.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> yes. but it does not appear to be working. From: "pethier at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 3:24 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 reversing problem Does it have overdrive? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Frank Fisher" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 1:34:52 PM > Subject: [TR] TR6 reversing problem > friends TR6 struggles to move in reverse gear. > i remember a discussion from a few months ago. > who's car was it and what was your problem and solution? > thanks > Frank From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 12 17:25:04 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 16:25:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 reversing problem In-Reply-To: <1310510711.74533.YahooMailNeo@web120212.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1310495692.29804.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><710697149.536621.1310509490068.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1310510711.74533.YahooMailNeo@web120212.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <02e501cc40ea$ee80b8c0$0301a8c0@randall> > yes. > but it does not appear to be working. Very likely then, the overdrive is stuck engaged. Hard to tell the difference between stuck in direct drive and stuck in OD; except that when you try to back up with the OD engaged, it forces the sprag clutch to turn the "wrong" way (generally destroying both the clutch and the housing around it). Could be mechanically stuck, or could be an electrical problem. -- Randall From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Jul 13 06:19:22 2011 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 08:19:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 on PBS Message-ID: <7c114.16850ed5.3b4ee74a@aol.com> Bill, Yep.....I spotted it right away as well....how about the red interior! In a message dated 7/11/2011 8:27:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, bill_beecher at flash.net writes: Watching Miss Marple last night on PBS' "Mystery" and here comes the bad guy rolling up in a neat powder blue TR3A. Plenty of camera time spent on the car. I believe the time period for the show is around 1953-54, guess they couldn't find a nice TR2. Bill triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Wed Jul 13 11:11:03 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 18:11:03 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] TR3 on PBS In-Reply-To: <7c114.16850ed5.3b4ee74a@aol.com> References: <7c114.16850ed5.3b4ee74a@aol.com> Message-ID: <1310577063.31881.YahooMailNeo@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> I believe the time period for the show is around 1953-54, guess they couldn't find a nice TR2. Given that film production companies do *sometimes* spend reasonable time searching for cars that exactly match the time period for the storyline, I guess there are some that don't have too many 'automotively-minded' reseachers to get the production absolutely right. I've met a good few of the latter group in recent years. Equally, there are quite a lot of people (in the UK anyway) who won't make their cars available for a shoot and so the production people have to go with the best that's available, even if it doesn't quite 'fit' for the enthusiast. Jonmac From bill_beecher at flash.net Wed Jul 13 11:40:17 2011 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 11:40:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 on PBS In-Reply-To: <1310577063.31881.YahooMailNeo@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <7c114.16850ed5.3b4ee74a@aol.com> <1310577063.31881.YahooMailNeo@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <550FA58636CC4CF587D7D2EB460CE719@bboffice> Jon, I'm sure you're right, PBS budgets are probably pretty tight and the car may belong to someone associated with the show. I was just happy to see a TR3 in a fairly current TV series. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" ________________________________ From: John Macartney [mailto:macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk] Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2011 11:11 AM To: Chip19474 at aol.com; bill_beecher at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 on PBS I believe the time period for the show is around 1953-54, guess they couldn't find a nice TR2. Given that film production companies do *sometimes* spend reasonable time searching for cars that exactly match the time period for the storyline, I guess there are some that don't have too many 'automotively-minded' reseachers to get the production absolutely right. I've met a good few of the latter group in recent years. Equally, there are quite a lot of people (in the UK anyway) who won't make their cars available for a shoot and so the production people have to go with the best that's available, even if it doesn't quite 'fit' for the enthusiast. Jonmac From fishplate at charter.net Wed Jul 13 15:31:43 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 17:31:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 on PBS In-Reply-To: <1310577063.31881.YahooMailNeo@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <7c114.16850ed5.3b4ee74a@aol.com> <1310577063.31881.YahooMailNeo@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E1E0EBF.4040602@charter.net> On 7/13/2011 1:11 PM, John Macartney wrote: > Equally, there are quite a > lot of people (in the UK anyway) who won't make their cars available for a > shoot I've heard stories of a car being loaned, then returned in a somewhat different condition. I'd loan my car - with attached driver. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From FordneyNJ at aol.com Wed Jul 13 16:45:34 2011 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 18:45:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 on PBS Message-ID: <6f21e.604fc543.3b4f7a0e@aol.com> I believe the time period for the show is around 1953-54, guess they couldn't find a nice TR2. Well at least it was a Triumph and a handsome one at that. Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ Triumph TR4A IRS Triumph TR 7 Spider From Catpusher at aol.com Wed Jul 13 19:50:51 2011 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 21:50:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Subject: needle bearing extractor Message-ID: <2ac5d.6f0ca65c.3b4fa57b@aol.com> Hi Ed, I took a rod long enough to fit through the laygear, turned it to fit in the small space inside the TRF long, press in, brgs (highly recommended). I drilled and tapped the working end, then cut a slot (or X)part way along it. A socket head cap screw head fastener, with the underside of the head beveled to match a bevel in the tool. For the first brg, insert from opposite end till it is in the space inside brg. tighten fastener to spread tool, and apply copper hammer to other end of tool. TR Regards, Hardy In a message dated 6/30/2011 8:19:13 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: From: fogbro1 at comcast.net To: triumph list Subject: [TR] needle bearing extractor Message-ID: List, B Has anyone found a tool that extracts the TR4-TR6 laygear bearings successfully? Horrible Freight offers one, but I'm wondering if there is room behind the bearing for it to get a grip. B I've been using a Dremel to grind out the old bearing shells, but it's tedious work. I'd like to find a way to pluck them out quickly. B Ed Woods From fishplate at charter.net Thu Jul 14 06:17:14 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 08:17:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Subject: needle bearing extractor In-Reply-To: <2ac5d.6f0ca65c.3b4fa57b@aol.com> References: <2ac5d.6f0ca65c.3b4fa57b@aol.com> Message-ID: <4E1EDE4A.2060503@charter.net> On 7/13/2011 9:50 PM, Catpusher at aol.com wrote: > Has anyone found a tool that extracts the TR4-TR6 laygear bearings > successfully? Horrible Freight offers one, but I'm wondering if there is > room > behind the bearing for it to get a grip. I've used tools like this in the past for similar jobs http://www.sirtools.com/sirs-010.jpg # 1089, near the bottom of this page http://www.sirtools.com/vw_audi.htm Never pulled a TR6 bearing -- yet.... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Jul 14 07:09:52 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 06:09:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud In-Reply-To: References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4E18B94D.3040306@charter.net> Message-ID: On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 6:49 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > I still find my TR3 difficult to start after driving on a hot day... > I get this too and am thinking that when the engine sits and heat soaks, some (expanding) fuel gets pushed into the carbs and lays there causing an over-rich start-up if the car has only sat for a short time (say 15 minutes or less). After a long sit (perhaps an hour or more) it starts normally as (I think) that excess fuel has evaporated. If this is true then perhaps there is little to be done about it. When this occurs it always starts (but roughly) and quickly clears and runs fine with normal temps even on 100+ days. Just a minor annoyance. A stop at Harbor Freight is just about right to bring it on. Other than shopping longer I wonder if there is a starting technique that will work better -- perhaps full accelerator initially to pull maximum air? Geo From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jul 14 07:22:10 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 09:22:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Retr0bright update References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> <1309092665.99744.YahooMailNeo@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: So I ordered hydrogen peroxide, glycerine, gum and Oxyclean, as well as a blender as my wife wasn't to keen on me using hers. I followed the instructions and came up with a sticky goo which was almost impossible to get off my hands, the bench and everything else it came into contact with. Turns out I made enough to coat a car, so next time I'll rachet down the quantities. I smeared the goo over the washer and radiator overflow bottles and set them in the sun for 2 days as instructed. Once it dried, washing it off was fairly simple. It's hard to say, but I think both are less yellow than previously. The instructions have a "rinse and repeat" suggestions, so I'm going to give it a second shot when I get some more supplies. I realize I cannot attach pictures to these emails, but if anyone wants before and afters, I'll be glad to send them along after the second application. Then you can decide if it's worth it. Andrew Uprichard _____ From: Andrew Uprichard [mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net] Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 11:37 AM To: 'Dale'; 'triumphs at autox.team.net'; '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: RE: [6pack] question Thanks to all who replied. I had tried vinegar and bleach, as well as those effervescent tablets used to clean dentures (they work a charm for glass decanter bottles) - all to no avail. Randall had suggested Retr0bright and sent a link - I'll give it a try and get back to y'all. Andrew Uprichard _____ From: Dale [mailto:tpdwinch at yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 8:51 AM To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] question Andrew There was a suggestion in the past to fill the bottle in a container, for inside snd outside of the bottle, with a light mixture of vinegarand let it sit for a few days. Dale From: Andrew Uprichard To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2011 8:23 AM Subject: [6pack] question Do any of you brainiacs have any suggestions on how to clean up a very yellow-looking washer bottle for my TR250 - that is, if it is even possible? Not a big deal, but if there were a way to do it, I'd be interested. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com From willgray at vaxxine.com Thu Jul 14 08:05:08 2011 From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett and Carol Gray) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 10:05:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating Message-ID: During the current spell of 85F + weather recently I took my recently rebuilt 3A out for its first experience of hot weather. It duly duly proceeded to stall whenever I let the revs drop too low when pulling. I had to let it sit and cool for five or ten minutes each time before it would start again. I assume this was due to overheating (temp gauge was showing 200F), and my next move has to involve installing an electric fan? Dave -- David Willett and Carol Gray, 331 Gage Street, Box 773, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0 Fax: 905 468 3007 Ph: 905 468 0608 E-Mail; willgray at vaxxine.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jul 14 08:17:27 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 07:17:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes Message-ID: <1310653047.76563.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> my last post on this had my friend experiencing a difficult time reversing his TR6. its like the handbrake is on. our of gear it rolls forward and backward very easily. but once you try and reverse using the motor in the normal fashion it struggles. the car has laycock overdrive. we did not think it was working. in talking to my friend last night we found when driving the car at +/-60 mph his revs are +/-2200. sounds like the overdrive is stuck in the on position. i have so little experience with overdrives. so what could be the cause of stuck on and what are the remedies? thanks Frank From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 14 08:29:54 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 07:29:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 shroud In-Reply-To: References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com><4E18B94D.3040306@charter.net> Message-ID: <006201cc4232$7fd22be0$0301a8c0@randall> > If this is true then perhaps there is little to be done about > it. Well, anything that helps keep the carbs cool will help. Heat shield, fresh air duct and/or a fan that runs after shutdown are just a few of the solutions that have been used. Lowering the float level just a bit should help, too. A really potent ignition system (eg MSD 6), capable of firing wet plugs, might help too. But so far I've just been living with it. It's more embarrassing than anything else, since the engine always starts for me, it just takes a few extra seconds of cranking. I seem to get best results just holding the throttle down slightly. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 14 10:11:16 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 09:11:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1310653047.76563.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1310653047.76563.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <008c01cc4240$a8f9b8e0$0301a8c0@randall> > so what could be the cause of stuck on and what are the remedies? First check whether power is getting to the solenoid. If so, it's an electrical problem and you can troubleshoot in the usual fashion. Another possibility is that the OD clutch is stuck inside the brake ring. A few good raps with a hammer on the brake ring (visible as a dark iron stripe around the body of the OD) may be enough to free it up. Beyond that, it would help to know whether it's an A-type (early TR6) or J-type (late TR6). While you are under there, inspect the rear housing of the OD where it necks down (before the output flange). If there are cracks visible, then it's time to pull the gearbox and repair the damage from backing up with the OD engaged. -- Randall From jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net Thu Jul 14 11:21:28 2011 From: jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net (Jerrold Le Tourneau) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 13:21:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Welding radiator inlet tubes - mating different ones. Message-ID: <4E1F2598.7030106@verizon.net> The cap mount flange has deteriorated on my 68' GT6 radiator. The radiator cap is barely held in place. I have another radiator that the drain tap has fallen out off and appears that it can't be fixed. I was wondering if would be practical to cut the radiator/cap fill tubes on the radiators and weld the good one to replace the bad one. The original radiator seems fine otherwise with no visible leaks. Anybody have thoughts on this idea? From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Jul 14 11:27:01 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 17:27:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1310653047.76563.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1794734286.689418.1310664421342.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Frank, In addition to knowing what type of overdrive, 'A' or 'J', it would be helpful to know a bit of the o/d's history: 1. Has it ever worked properly? 2. Is it newly installed? 3. Just rebuilt by someone? Ed Woods ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:17:27 AM Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes my last post on this had my friend experiencing a difficult time reversing his TR6. its like the handbrake is on. our of gear it rolls forward and backward very easily. but once you try and reverse using the motor in the normal fashion it struggles. the car has laycock overdrive. we did not think it was working. in talking to my friend last night we found when driving the car at +/-60 mph his revs are +/-2200. sounds like the overdrive is stuck in the on position. i have so little experience with overdrives. so what could be the cause of stuck on and what are the remedies? thanks Frank triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net Fr From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Jul 14 11:34:07 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 17:34:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1310653047.76563.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1508204465.689906.1310664847503.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Frank, B In addition to knowing what type of overdrive, 'A' or 'J', it would be helpful to know a bit of the o/d's history: B 1. Has it ever worked properly? 2. Is it newly installed? 3. Just rebuilt by someone? If the electrics are proven not to be the problem and banging on the brake ring with a BFH does free the clutch, I'dB invest in a pressure gauge and run a pressure check before going any further. B Ed Woods From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Jul 14 11:42:27 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 17:42:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1310653047.76563.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1098540109.690551.1310665347887.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> And speaking of the o/d's history, when's the last time the filter's been cleaned and the oil changed? If dirt is the enemy of all machinery, that's goes double for hydraulics. Ed (again) From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jul 14 11:47:44 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 10:47:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1794734286.689418.1310664421342.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1310653047.76563.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1794734286.689418.1310664421342.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1310665664.91438.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Ed don't know if its an A or J type. 1973 TR6. i suspect its a J type car was bought ruining after some "rebuilding" . i drove it to Buddy's home. O/D was not working when i drove it. when he got it home he found that beneath the shinny new paint job was some pretty poor detail work. lots of electric wired wrong, including the O/D don't know if the O/D was worked on. he did manage to get the wiring corrected to the O/D and we know the wire is hot when the switch is engaged and not hot when not engaged. when the wire to the O/D is switched to on the solenoid clicks. Frank From: "fogbro1 at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:27 AM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes Frank, In addition to knowing what type of overdrive, 'A' or 'J', it would be helpful to know a bit of the o/d's history: 1. Has it ever worked properly? 2. Is it newly installed? 3. Just rebuilt by someone? Ed Woods From: "Frank Fisher" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:17:27 AM Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes my last post on this had my friend experiencing a difficult time reversing his TR6. its like the handbrake is on. our of gear it rolls forward and backward very easily. but once you try and reverse using the motor in the normal fashion it struggles. the car has laycock overdrive. we did not think it was working. in talking to my friend last night we found when driving the car at +/-60 mph his revs are +/-2200. sounds like the overdrive is stuck in the on position. i have so little experience with overdrives. so what could be the cause of stuck on and what are the remedies? thanks Frank triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net Fr From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jul 14 11:49:06 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 10:49:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1508204465.689906.1310664847503.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1310653047.76563.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1508204465.689906.1310664847503.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1310665746.91907.YahooMailNeo@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i look forward to wielding a BFH on a vehicle not owned by me! laughing From: "fogbro1 at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:34 AM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes Frank, In addition to knowing what type of overdrive, 'A' or 'J', it would be helpful to know a bit of the o/d's history: 1. Has it ever worked properly? 2. Is it newly installed? 3. Just rebuilt by someone? If the electrics are proven not to be the problem and banging on the brake ring with a BFH does free the clutch, I'd invest in a pressure gauge and run a pressure check before going any further. Ed Woods From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 14 11:57:34 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 10:57:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Welding radiator inlet tubes - mating different ones. In-Reply-To: <4E1F2598.7030106@verizon.net> References: <4E1F2598.7030106@verizon.net> Message-ID: <00c001cc424f$831e6a80$0301a8c0@randall> > I was > wondering if would be practical to cut the radiator/cap fill tubes on > the radiators and weld the good one to replace the bad one. Not worth the hassle, IMO. Just take it to any radiator shop, and have them install a new fill neck. The part is only $15-$20 new; and they may even install it for free if you have the radiator serviced (boiled or rodded out) at the same time. I had a new fill neck (with 3/4" reach instead of 1" so I can use a modern cap) installed on my TR3 radiator last year, and ISTR it only added $18 to the bill (including tax). -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Jul 14 11:57:45 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 13:57:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Welding radiator inlet tubes - mating different ones. In-Reply-To: <4E1F2598.7030106@verizon.net> References: <4E1F2598.7030106@verizon.net> Message-ID: <201107141357.46412.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday, July 14, 2011 01:21:28 pm Jerrold Le Tourneau wrote: > The cap mount flange has deteriorated on my 68' GT6 radiator. The > radiator cap is barely held in place. I have another radiator that the > drain tap has fallen out off and appears that it can't be fixed. I was > wondering if would be practical to cut the radiator/cap fill tubes on > the radiators and weld the good one to replace the bad one. The > original radiator seems fine otherwise with no visible leaks. Anybody > have thoughts on this idea? > Jerrold, I got a TR3 radiator on Ebay but it did not have the part you described. Someone must have removed it. So I heated up a wrecked radiator filler flange and removed it and re soldered it to the good radiator. At least on the TR3, all those parts are soldered not welded. So if the GT6 radiators are the same, you should be able to heat up the flange and remove it and do the same on the radiator with a good flange and re-solder it to your good radiator. I used my standard propane torch and real lead/tin solder. (Dont tell the EPA!) Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Jul 14 12:08:37 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 14:08:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201107141408.39308.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:05:08 am David Willett and Carol Gray wrote: > During the current spell of 85F + weather recently I took my recently > rebuilt 3A out for its first experience of hot weather. It duly duly > proceeded to stall whenever I let the revs drop too low when pulling. > I had to let it sit and cool for five or ten minutes each time before > it would start again. > > I assume this was due to overheating (temp gauge was showing 200F), > and my next move has to involve installing an electric fan? > > Dave Dave, I have been driving both my 3 and 4 in 85 + days recently and they never get much above 185 unless I am stuck in traffic for more than 5 minutes or up a real long hill. Even then just above the 185 mark. Since your engine is rebuilt I am guessing the water jacket is clear of gunk. So it could be your radiator, coolant, water pump or thermostat. I use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. Both my 3 and 4 use the stock TR4 4 bladed fan. Bob From jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net Thu Jul 14 12:28:54 2011 From: jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net (Jerrold Le Tourneau) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 14:28:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Welding radiator inlet tubes - mating different ones. In-Reply-To: <201107141357.46412.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <4E1F2598.7030106@verizon.net> <201107141357.46412.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <4E1F3566.2070209@verizon.net> Bob - Great call !!! I just took my torch to the replacement radiator and the inlet tube came loose. It is indeed soldered like your TR3. So now I am off to do the same for the radiator in the car. Swap out the inlet tubes, resolder and I should be good to go. Thanks! Jerry On 7/14/2011 1:57 PM, Bob wrote: > On Thursday, July 14, 2011 01:21:28 pm Jerrold Le Tourneau wrote: >> The cap mount flange has deteriorated on my 68' GT6 radiator. The >> radiator cap is barely held in place. I have another radiator that the >> drain tap has fallen out off and appears that it can't be fixed. I was >> wondering if would be practical to cut the radiator/cap fill tubes on >> the radiators and weld the good one to replace the bad one. The >> original radiator seems fine otherwise with no visible leaks. Anybody >> have thoughts on this idea? >> > Jerrold, > > I got a TR3 radiator on Ebay but it did not have the part you described. > Someone must have removed it. So I heated up a wrecked radiator filler flange > and removed it and re soldered it to the good radiator. > > At least on the TR3, all those parts are soldered not welded. So if the GT6 > radiators are the same, you should be able to heat up the flange and remove it > and do the same on the radiator with a good flange and re-solder it to your > good radiator. I used my standard propane torch and real lead/tin solder. > (Dont tell the EPA!) > > Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jul 14 17:50:09 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 16:50:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1310665746.91907.YahooMailNeo@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1310653047.76563.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1508204465.689906.1310664847503.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1310665746.91907.YahooMailNeo@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003f01cc4280$c4edd5f0$4ec981d0$@rr.com> > If the electrics are proven not to be > the problem and banging on the brake ring with a BFH does free the > clutch, > I'd invest in a pressure gauge and run a pressure check before going > any further. Good idea! In addition, I suggest doing at least one check at high speed with the gearbox relatively cold. I apparently had my A-type accumulator shimmed up to the point where it would regulate the pressure just fine at low rpm, but get coil bind and let the pressure soar at high rpm. Since I only did a pressure test on the bench at around 800 rpm, I didn't realize the problem until after it had done some substantial damage inside the unit. In my case, the clutch didn't stick, but the force bent the bridge bars for the operating cylinders and bent the big circlip that holds the clutch ring to the carrier. I think it's also responsible for the broken thrust washer that finally disabled the unit. -- Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Jul 14 18:13:31 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 00:13:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <003f01cc4280$c4edd5f0$4ec981d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <887052162.708756.1310688811063.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> And we still need to determine if it's aB B A or J.. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "Frank Fisher" Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 7:50:09 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes > If the electrics are proven not to be > the problem and banging on the brake ring with a BFH does free the > clutch, > I'd invest in a pressure gauge and run a pressure check before going > any further. Good idea! B In addition, I suggest doing at least one check at high speed with the gearbox relatively cold. B I apparently had my A-type accumulator shimmed up to the point where it would regulate the pressure just fine at low rpm, but get coil bind and let the pressure soar at high rpm. B Since I only did a pressure test on the bench at around 800 rpm, I didn't realize the problem until after it had done some substantial damage inside the unit. In my case, the clutch didn't stick, but the force bent the bridge bars for the operating cylinders and bent the big circlip that holds the clutch ring to the carrier. B I think it's also responsible for the broken thrust washer that finally disabled the unit. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Thu Jul 14 18:25:04 2011 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:25:04 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating Message-ID: <34ac2.3c7e8cbc.3b50e2e0@aol.com> Hi Dave; I'm not convinced an electric fan is going to cure the problem. If everything is as it should be, then in 85F weather the benefit of an electric fan would be felt only when idling or inching in traffic. Having said all that, I had overheating problems with my TR3A last year. I was flushing the cooling system every couple of years and using 50/50 coolant/water. However, it still ran too hot when at 60mph in hot weather. Fine at 50mph, though, and too hot in traffic. I tried different thermostats and all sorts of adjustments. I finally gave up and put on every cooling system modification I could think of: Thicker radiator with no starting handle hole, upgraded TRF water pump, TR6 fan conversion (which I prefer over the electric fan conversion). I don't know which one of those things cured it, or maybe it was a combination of both, but now the thing will warm up only in hot weather! I know you said the engine was rebuilt but could the water pump be weak or was it renewed? Tim In a message dated 14/07/2011 10:29:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, willgray at vaxxine.com writes: During the current spell of 85F + weather recently I took my recently rebuilt 3A out for its first experience of hot weather. It duly duly proceeded to stall whenever I let the revs drop too low when pulling. I had to let it sit and cool for five or ten minutes each time before it would start again. I assume this was due to overheating (temp gauge was showing 200F), and my next move has to involve installing an electric fan? Dave -- David Willett and Carol Gray, 331 Gage Street, Box 773, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0 Fax: 905 468 3007 Ph: 905 468 0608 E-Mail; willgray at vaxxine.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jul 14 18:25:30 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 17:25:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <666903149.706176.1310684470118.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1310666354.698.YahooMailNeo@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <666903149.706176.1310684470118.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1310689530.24433.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> So it has never operated for the present owner? Correct And he's never been able to drive it in reverse? part Correct. i cant recall if we ever had to back it up under its own power from when he bought it. it does go backwards under its own power, but reluctantly. From: "fogbro1 at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 4:01 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes So it has never operated for the present owner. And he's never been able to drive it in reverse. Correct? From: "Frank Fisher" To: fogbro1 at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 1:59:14 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes no known info on its history. only getting its 2nd ride under the new owner. in fact, i had the first drive to his home 6 months ago. he is just getting his first rides this last 2 weeks Frank From: "fogbro1 at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:42 AM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes And speaking of the o/d's history, when's the last time the filter's been cleaned and the oil changed? If dirt is the enemy of all machinery, that's goes double for hydraulics. Ed (again) From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jul 14 18:55:16 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 17:55:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <503166339.706298.1310684701994.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1310665664.91438.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <503166339.706298.1310684701994.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1310691316.10414.YahooMailNeo@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> looking at photos on the net, im putting my money on a J type From: "fogbro1 at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 4:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes There are many differences, but the one you've probably observed is the mounting of the solenoid: an 'A' type solenoid is mounted vertically. A 'J' type solenoid is mounted horizontally. What have you? Any chance you can send a photo? Ed From: "Frank Fisher" To: fogbro1 at comcast.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 1:47:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes Ed don't know if its an A or J type. 1973 TR6. i suspect its a J type car was bought ruining after some "rebuilding" . i drove it to Buddy's home. O/D was not working when i drove it. when he got it home he found that beneath the shinny new paint job was some pretty poor detail work. lots of electric wired wrong, including the O/D don't know if the O/D was worked on. he did manage to get the wiring corrected to the O/D and we know the wire is hot when the switch is engaged and not hot when not engaged. when the wire to the O/D is switched to on the solenoid clicks. Frank From: "fogbro1 at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:27 AM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes Frank, In addition to knowing what type of overdrive, 'A' or 'J', it would be helpful to know a bit of the o/d's history: 1. Has it ever worked properly? 2. Is it newly installed? 3. Just rebuilt by someone? Ed Woods From: "Frank Fisher" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:17:27 AM Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes my last post on this had my friend experiencing a difficult time reversing his TR6. its like the handbrake is on. our of gear it rolls forward and backward very easily. but once you try and reverse using the motor in the normal fashion it struggles. the car has laycock overdrive. we did not think it was working. in talking to my friend last night we found when driving the car at +/-60 mph his revs are +/-2200. sounds like the overdrive is stuck in the on position. i have so little experience with overdrives. so what could be the cause of stuck on and what are the remedies? thanks Frank triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net Fr From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Jul 14 19:18:22 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:18:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating In-Reply-To: <34ac2.3c7e8cbc.3b50e2e0@aol.com> References: <34ac2.3c7e8cbc.3b50e2e0@aol.com> Message-ID: I had a car with overheating problems, and ended up running with no thermostat whatsoever. then the water pump gave out (or, it was so obvious that I finally noticed it). after replacing it, I immediately had problems with overheating on the freeway. put a thermostat in it and all was good. moral of the story - before it finally dies, a water pump may only be working somewhat . . . -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 7:25 PM To: ; Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Overheating > Hi Dave; > > I'm not convinced an electric fan is going to cure the problem. If > everything is as it should be, then in 85F weather the benefit of an > electric fan > would be felt only when idling or inching in traffic. > > Having said all that, I had overheating problems with my TR3A last year. I > was flushing the cooling system every couple of years and using 50/50 > coolant/water. However, it still ran too hot when at 60mph in hot weather. > Fine > at 50mph, though, and too hot in traffic. I tried different thermostats > and > all sorts of adjustments. > > I finally gave up and put on every cooling system modification I could > think of: Thicker radiator with no starting handle hole, upgraded TRF > water > pump, TR6 fan conversion (which I prefer over the electric fan > conversion). I > don't know which one of those things cured it, or maybe it was a > combination of both, but now the thing will warm up only in hot weather! > > I know you said the engine was rebuilt but could the water pump be weak > or > was it renewed? > > Tim > > > In a message dated 14/07/2011 10:29:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > willgray at vaxxine.com writes: > > During the current spell of 85F + weather recently I took my recently > rebuilt 3A out for its first experience of hot weather. It duly duly > proceeded to stall whenever I let the revs drop too low when pulling. > I had to let it sit and cool for five or ten minutes each time before > it would start again. > > I assume this was due to overheating (temp gauge was showing 200F), > and my next move has to involve installing an electric fan? > > Dave > -- > David Willett and Carol Gray, > 331 Gage Street, Box 773, > Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON > L0S 1J0 > > Fax: 905 468 3007 > Ph: 905 468 0608 > E-Mail; willgray at vaxxine.com From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jul 14 20:45:00 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:45:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating In-Reply-To: References: <34ac2.3c7e8cbc.3b50e2e0@aol.com> Message-ID: Question: How does a water pump partially wear our? Do the vanes wear down? I should think that if it is not leaking and the belt is not slipping that it is working as intended. Give you radiator a good check/cleaning if you have not already. Only mod to my stock cooling system is the six-blade "Tropical Fan" that was sold as and option for TR4s. No problems so far climbing the Utah mountains over the past two years. Real test comes later this summer on the roads of west Texas. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From aribert at c3net.net Thu Jul 14 21:33:12 2011 From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 23:33:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TRs in Detroit area salvage yards Message-ID: <9316bf228fe9ad170f4135506b4860f1.squirrel@server6.glis.net> Parts Galore (a fixed price, you pull it yard) on Warren in Detroit has a '70 or there about TR6 along with a TR7 hardtop. As of last Saturday (I intended to send this message days ago), the TR6 was virtually complete. It was missing the radiator, the trans tunnel and the topstack. It is a non OD w/ wire wheels car. The TR7 was relatively complete but was missing a few more parts including the rad (judging by the A/C condenser) looked to have factory air. If someone needed a patch panel, get there w/ a battery powered "sawsall" - I have seen pictures of some peoples project cars that were in worse shape than these two cars. The Parts Galore on 8 Mile has a **very** rough GT6, also about a '70 model. I hacked off a rotoflex hub/spindle and took the spindle out of the other hub and got a couple of switches. From mdporter at dfn.com Thu Jul 14 21:38:50 2011 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 21:38:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating In-Reply-To: References: <34ac2.3c7e8cbc.3b50e2e0@aol.com> Message-ID: <4E1FB64A.7070600@dfn.com> On 7/14/2011 8:45 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > working somewhat . . .> > > > Question: How does a water pump partially wear our? Do the vanes wear down? > I should think that if it is not leaking and the belt is not slipping that > it is working as intended. Give you radiator a good check/cleaning if you > have not already. > > Corrosion can cause the pump vanes to wear down over time, and once the pump begins to cavitate, that can accelerate the wear. That said, the pump doesn't have to leak to create symptoms of overheating. I had one that didn't leak (at least not enough to notice), but the seal had worn just enough to suck air in due to rotation of the shaft, which would overpressurize the system and cause the cap to vent as if it were boiling over. But, a goodly number of the Cummins diesels we'd purchased for customers' buses at one time were going through water pumps at a ferocious rate (with the primary symptom being overheating), and the problem was traced back to a corrosion inhibitor that was incompatible with the water pump vane alloy, and was accelerating the erosion of that part. Once the anti-corrosion chemistry was sorted out, everything was back to normal. So, it can happen. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Jul 14 21:40:55 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 03:40:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1310689530.24433.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <438783693.715640.1310701255678.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Frank, Backing up with the o/d engaged will destroy it. If not immediately, then some time. If this were my car, I'd not back it up at all. A 'J' type is supposed to have residual pressure, but not enough to engage the overdrive. After the BFH trick and making sure the electrics are disconnected, I would buy a gauge and try a few things before giving up, pulling the gearbox and dismantling the o/d. So the choices at this point are: 1. pull the gearbox and dismantle the unit. B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B 2. Or buy a gauge and make a measurement of the pressure. At least that's what I'd do at this point. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: fogbro1 at comcast.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 8:25:30 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes So it has never operated for the present owner? Correct And he's never been able to drive it in reverse? part Correct. i cant recall if we ever had to back it up under its own power from when he bought it. it does go backwards under its own power, but reluctantly . From: "fogbro1 at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 4:01 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes So it has never operated for the present owner. And he's never been able to drive it in reverse. Correct? From: "Frank Fisher" To: fogbro1 at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 1:59:14 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes no known info on its history. only getting its 2 nd ride under the new owner. in fact, i had the first drive to his home 6 months ago. he is just getting his first rides this last 2 weeks Frank From: "fogbro1 at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 10:42 AM Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 reversing woes And speaking of the o/ d's history, when's the last time the filter's been cleaned and the oil changed? If dirt is the enemy of all machinery, that's goes double for hydraulics. B Ed (again) From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Jul 15 05:35:21 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:35:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Retr0bright update In-Reply-To: <1310682250.56880.YahooMailRC@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1310682250.56880.YahooMailRC@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I am probably the last person to insist on originality. For this car, I have written an article for VTR detailing all the modifications. Everything from a frame strengthening kit, shock tower conversion and sealed ball bearing trailing arm conversion to +60 forged pistons and steel billet connecting rods, cam bearings and a fast road cam. But every now and then one sees a piece and wonders, "can I clean this up and use it again?" So it was with the bottles, and the experiment with Retr0bright. I was going to say "call me crazy" until I realized that it (being crazy)is a prerequisite to owning these cars and subscribing to this list......... Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:24 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Retr0bright update Did I miss something here? Moss lists the overflow bottle for $12.95!! Buying a new one seems a lot easier than the exercise you have been through. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Jul 15 06:29:07 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:29:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Retr0bright update In-Reply-To: References: <1310682250.56880.YahooMailRC@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E203293.9090608@gmail.com> On 7/15/11 4:35 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I was going to say "call me crazy" until I realized that it (being crazy)is > a prerequisite to owning these cars and subscribing to this list......... > > I'm a firm believer in the concept "Reality is what you make of it." and sanity is defined by a consensus of a sample group. If you confine your sample group to subscribers of this list then you would be crazy not to own a TR. Ergo, I am perfectly sane. Teriann From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Jul 15 06:58:06 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 08:58:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Retr0bright update In-Reply-To: <4E203293.9090608@gmail.com> References: <1310682250.56880.YahooMailRC@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <4E203293.9090608@gmail.com> Message-ID: <95651424BF5947709B5C496A4EDBE6C2@DCH6RFC1> I hate to pull the doctor card, but there is a condition known as folie ` plusieurs (madness shared by many), but perhaps we'll leave it at that....... Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 8:29 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Retr0bright update On 7/15/11 4:35 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I was going to say "call me crazy" until I realized that it (being crazy)is > a prerequisite to owning these cars and subscribing to this list......... > > I'm a firm believer in the concept "Reality is what you make of it." and sanity is defined by a consensus of a sample group. If you confine your sample group to subscribers of this list then you would be crazy not to own a TR. Ergo, I am perfectly sane. Teriann triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Fri Jul 15 07:20:59 2011 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 06:20:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauge Message-ID: <1310736059.83598.YahooMailRC@web80406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Ed writes, "I'd invest in a pressure gauge and run a pressure check before going any further." Here's a link to my Oil Pressure Gauge web page - all gauges on hand - ready to ship: http://tiny.cc/odgauge brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 Walking out the door to drive my TR4 to Road America for the weekend. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Jul 15 07:35:37 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 08:35:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Retr0bright update In-Reply-To: <4E203293.9090608@gmail.com> References: <1310682250.56880.YahooMailRC@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <4E203293.9090608@gmail.com> Message-ID: it is our duty to preserve history . . . -------------------------------------------------- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 7:29 AM To: Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Retr0bright update > On 7/15/11 4:35 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: >> I was going to say "call me crazy" until I realized that it (being >> crazy)is >> a prerequisite to owning these cars and subscribing to this list......... >> >> > I'm a firm believer in the concept "Reality is what you make of it." and > sanity is defined by a consensus of a sample group. If you confine your > sample group to subscribers of this list then you would be crazy not to > own a TR. > > Ergo, I am perfectly sane. > > Teriann From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Jul 15 07:52:17 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 06:52:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Retr0bright update In-Reply-To: <95651424BF5947709B5C496A4EDBE6C2@DCH6RFC1> References: <1310682250.56880.YahooMailRC@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <4E203293.9090608@gmail.com> <95651424BF5947709B5C496A4EDBE6C2@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <4E204611.4040405@gmail.com> On 7/15/11 5:58 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I hate to pull the doctor card, but there is a condition known as folie ` > plusieurs (madness shared by many), but perhaps we'll leave it at > that....... > Ah yes and wars are fought to determine whose madness or sense of reality is more real. To people who have a different belief system we are each of us is mad in one or more ways. Best to leave others to their madness, if they will allow us to do so and happily exist within our own sense of reality. In my reality owning a 50 year old TR3 and a 51 year old Land Rover is a perfectly normal thing to do. It is a form of madness to spend money owning a car that actually depreciates in value. Teriann > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman > Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 8:29 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Retr0bright update > > On 7/15/11 4:35 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > >> I was going to say "call me crazy" until I realized that it (being >> > crazy)is > >> a prerequisite to owning these cars and subscribing to this list......... >> >> >> > I'm a firm believer in the concept "Reality is what you make of it." and > sanity is defined by a consensus of a sample group. If you confine your > sample group to subscribers of this list then you would be crazy not to > own a TR. > > Ergo, I am perfectly sane. > > Teriann > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Jul 15 08:25:36 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 09:25:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?=5B6pack=5D_Retr0bright_update?= Message-ID: <20110715142538.24CAB18788E@autox.team.net> Sorry. That's not why wars are fought. Perhaps we should stick to cars. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" To: "Andrew Uprichard" Cc: , <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] [6pack] Retr0bright update Date: Fri, Jul 15, 2011 08:52 On 7/15/11 5:58 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I hate to pull the doctor card, but there is a condition known as folie ` > plusieurs (madness shared by many), but perhaps we'll leave it at > that....... > Ah yes and wars are fought to determine whose madness or sense of reality is more real. To people who have a different belief system we are each of us is mad in one or more ways. Best to leave others to their madness, if they will allow us to do so and happily exist within our own sense of reality. In my reality owning a 50 year old TR3 and a 51 year old Land Rover is a perfectly normal thing to do. It is a form of madness to spend money owning a car that actually depreciates in value. Teriann > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman > Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 8:29 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Retr0bright update > > On 7/15/11 4:35 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > >> I was going to say "call me crazy" until I realized that it (being >> > crazy)is > >> a prerequisite to owning these cars and subscribing to this list......... >> >> >> > I'm a firm believer in the concept "Reality is what you make of it." and > sanity is defined by a consensus of a sample group. If you confine your > sample group to subscribers of this list then you would be crazy not to > own a TR. > > Ergo, I am perfectly sane. > > Teriann > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jul 15 08:31:05 2011 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 14:31:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] Clutch master cylinder. Message-ID: Hi List, When I installed my hydraulic throw out bearing I used a 5/8" bore short stroke master cylinder recommended by the manufacturer. After using my TR as a grocery getter the last few months I find the clutch pedal is too heavy for comfortable around town driving. If I remember correctly the stock TR clutch master cylinder is a 3/4" bore. If I switch back to the stock master cylinder will the increased bore size make the clutch pedal easier to depress? Thanks. Best regards, Tom From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 15 10:44:42 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 09:44:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Clutch master cylinder. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <014101cc430e$80884880$8198d980$@rr.com> > If I remember correctly the stock TR clutch master cylinder is a 3/4" > bore. > If I switch back to the stock master cylinder will the increased bore > size make the clutch pedal easier to depress? Nope, it's the other way around. Bigger MC bore means harder pedal. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jul 15 10:48:49 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 12:48:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Clutch master cylinder. Message-ID: In a message dated 7/15/2011 9:52:39 AM Central Daylight Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: > When I installed my hydraulic throw out bearing I used a 5/8" bore short > stroke master cylinder recommended by the manufacturer. After using my TR > as > a grocery getter the last few months I find the clutch pedal is too heavy > for > comfortable around town driving. > > If I remember correctly the stock TR clutch master cylinder is a 3/4" > bore. > If I switch back to the stock master cylinder will the increased bore size > make the clutch pedal easier to depress? > Regrettably, no. It will prove counterproductive. The amount of force applied to a piston is the pressure times the cross sectional area of the piston. Assuming you are not changing the slave cylinder you will need the same PSI to operate the clutch. Going from a 5/8 inch diameter master cylinder to a 3/4 inch one will only make the required force greater. For example, if 200 PSI is required to operate the clutch the force needed with a 5/8 master will be 61 Lbs. The force required with a 3/4 master will be 88 Lbs. (PIx(r^2)xPSI). If you can find a larger slave cylinder you will reduce the PSI required and thereby reduce the pedal force needed. But the trade off is a longer stroke will be needed. If you are already engage the clutch near the floor that may not work, either. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 15 11:01:45 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:01:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRs in Detroit area salvage yards In-Reply-To: <9316bf228fe9ad170f4135506b4860f1.squirrel@server6.glis.net> References: <9316bf228fe9ad170f4135506b4860f1.squirrel@server6.glis.net> Message-ID: <014901cc4310$e1977900$a4c66b00$@rr.com> Along the same lines, there is a Stag body in the Ecology wrecking yard near Lancaster, CA. Not much else left, but the body seems to have no rust at all and only some minor dents. Both doors were there last Saturday, but not the hood or either top (don't recall about the trunk lid). Also had what appeared to be a Rover short block (no heads) and some sort of automatic transmission. And I left the rear bumper behind. -- Randall From areich at telus.net Fri Jul 15 11:48:36 2011 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:48:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Badge bar for TR6 Message-ID: <4E207D74.8080704@telus.net> Greetings I just purchased a 1975 TR6 and wanted to put a badge bar and driving lights on it. The "rubber duckies" have been removed, so I do have two holes on each side of the front bumper to use. The driving lights are easy but wondering about a badge bar (stainless or chrome) Allan Reich 1975 TR6 CF30255U Vancouver, Canada From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com Sat Jul 16 05:49:09 2011 From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 04:49:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding Message-ID: <1310816949.19713.YahooMailRC@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> My car is an ex US LHD May 1976 model. I have replaced my front pipes and calipers and want to bleed the brakes. With the cap off there appears to be 2 chambers as there is a piece of plastic across the reservoir. So does fluid go into the larger chamber or does fluid go in to the very small opening at the front too??? I am more used to the single system master cylinder as on my Mk3 Spitfire. Thanks From emanteno at comcast.net Sat Jul 16 06:19:15 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 07:19:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding In-Reply-To: <1310816949.19713.YahooMailRC@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1310816949.19713.YahooMailRC@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 6:49 AM, Alex Cherington < a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com> wrote: > My car is an ex US LHD May 1976 model. I have replaced my front pipes and > calipers and want to bleed the brakes. With the cap off there appears to be > 2 > chambers as there is a piece of plastic across the reservoir. > > So does fluid > go into the larger chamber or does fluid go in to the very small > opening at > the front too??? > The very small chamber in the front is for the rear brakes. The larger, main chamber, is for the front brakes. So, the answer to your question is to fill them both up. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jul 16 06:23:41 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 08:23:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding In-Reply-To: <1310816949.19713.YahooMailRC@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1310816949.19713.YahooMailRC@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0D4A5CE34B1F4DBDADC6F891BDF9B95C@BobPC> The fluid goes into both chambers. The small front one is for the rear brakes and the large rear one is for the front brakes. Bleed them in order of distance: RR, LR, RF, LF Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Alex Cherington Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 7:49 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding My car is an ex US LHD May 1976 model. I have replaced my front pipes and calipers and want to bleed the brakes. With the cap off there appears to be 2 chambers as there is a piece of plastic across the reservoir. So does fluid go into the larger chamber or does fluid go in to the very small opening at the front too??? I am more used to the single system master cylinder as on my Mk3 Spitfire. Thanks triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Sat Jul 16 06:25:16 2011 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 08:25:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding In-Reply-To: <1310816949.19713.YahooMailRC@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1310816949.19713.YahooMailRC@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20110716082202.033e5c58@donkeykong.whspn.net> Alex, If I remember correctly, filling up the rear chamber will then spill over to the front chamber. Either way, you need fluid in BOTH chambers up to the fill line, and there will be draw from both chambers as you bleed the brakes! (I believe the front chamber is for the front brakes, and the chamber close to the firewall is the rear brakes, but I could have that reversed) - Aldwyn At 07:49 AM 7/16/2011, Alex Cherington wrote: >My car is an ex US LHD May 1976 model. I have replaced my front pipes and >calipers and want to bleed the brakes. With the cap off there appears to be 2 >chambers as there is a piece of plastic across the reservoir. > >So does fluid >go into the larger chamber or does fluid go in to the very small >opening at >the front too??? > > >I am more used to the single system master cylinder as on >my Mk3 Spitfire. > >Thanks > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aldwyn at sylvancircle.org ********************************************** Om Sri Ganeshaya Namaha From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com Sat Jul 16 06:27:07 2011 From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 05:27:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding In-Reply-To: <0D4A5CE34B1F4DBDADC6F891BDF9B95C@BobPC> References: <1310816949.19713.YahooMailRC@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <0D4A5CE34B1F4DBDADC6F891BDF9B95C@BobPC> Message-ID: <1310819227.78012.YahooMailRC@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks for the replies. It looked like that was the case but the aperture for filling the front chamber looks way too small to easily get fluid into. Not the best of designs. ----- Original Message ---- From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: Alex Cherington ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 16 July, 2011 13:23:41 Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding The fluid goes into both chambers. The small front one is for the rear brakes and the large rear one is for the front brakes. Bleed them in order of distance: RR, LR, RF, LF Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Alex Cherington Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 7:49 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding My car is an ex US LHD May 1976 model. I have replaced my front pipes and calipers and want to bleed the brakes. With the cap off there appears to be 2 chambers as there is a piece of plastic across the reservoir. So does fluid go into the larger chamber or does fluid go in to the very small opening at the front too??? I am more used to the single system master cylinder as on my Mk3 Spitfire. Thanks triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jeremiah at curryclan.net Sat Jul 16 10:25:14 2011 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 10:25:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] 30 psi at 65 mph Message-ID: <0LdpM3-1R8cag0gGR-00ivQC@mrelay.perfora.net> I am driving my TR3 from Salt Lake City to St. George UT about 300 miles, I am 60 miles into the trip. This is the farthest I've driven it since getting it running. I am seeing 30 psi at 65 mph (according to GPS) with no overdrive. And 20 psi at idle. Is that way too low? Should I stop? Thanks, Jeremiah From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jul 16 11:48:21 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 13:48:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding In-Reply-To: <1310819227.78012.YahooMailRC@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1310816949.19713.YahooMailRC@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com><0D4A5CE34B1F4DBDADC6F891BDF9B95C@BobPC> <1310819227.78012.YahooMailRC@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <51753E6793554CDEB8B39898549A63EF@BobPC> I use a turkey baster for filling the M/C. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Alex Cherington Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 8:27 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding Thanks for the replies. It looked like that was the case but the aperture for filling the front chamber looks way too small to easily get fluid into. Not the best of designs. ----- Original Message ---- From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: Alex Cherington ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 16 July, 2011 13:23:41 Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding The fluid goes into both chambers. The small front one is for the rear brakes and the large rear one is for the front brakes. Bleed them in order of distance: RR, LR, RF, LF Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Alex Cherington Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 7:49 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding My car is an ex US LHD May 1976 model. I have replaced my front pipes and calipers and want to bleed the brakes. With the cap off there appears to be 2 chambers as there is a piece of plastic across the reservoir. So does fluid go into the larger chamber or does fluid go in to the very small opening at the front too??? I am more used to the single system master cylinder as on my Mk3 Spitfire. Thanks triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Jul 16 12:32:45 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 13:32:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] 30 psi at 65 mph In-Reply-To: <0LdpM3-1R8cag0gGR-00ivQC@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <0LdpM3-1R8cag0gGR-00ivQC@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: <20110716183328.EEDDA1878F2@autox.team.net> One of the rules of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 RPM - so 20 psi at 2000 RPM, 30 psi at 3000 RPM, etc. 30 psi isn't great (I'd rather see 50) but it's not awful either. If it starts dropping, THAT's a "shut it down now" deal. If you've got access to some tools, you may try screwing the oil relief screw in a bit. This is a big screw / bolt with a locknut sticking out of the oil filter head. Tony Drews At 11:25 AM 7/16/2011, Jeremiah Curry wrote: >I am driving my TR3 from Salt Lake City to St. George UT about 300 miles, I am >60 miles into the trip. This is the farthest I've driven it since getting it >running. I am seeing 30 psi at 65 mph (according to GPS) with no overdrive. >And 20 psi at idle. Is that way too low? Should I stop? > >Thanks, >Jeremiah From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Jul 16 13:17:14 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 12:17:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] 30 psi at 65 mph In-Reply-To: <0LdpM3-1R8cag0gGR-00ivQC@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <0LdpM3-1R8cag0gGR-00ivQC@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: My opinion is that you have 'enough' oil pressure. Not great, but 'enough'. At some point when you can it might be a good idea to check the pressure with a test gauge just in case your gauge is not accurate. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive gauge which may be good enough for a 2nd opinion. http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html I think there is also the possibility that the relief valve on the oil filter head is maladjusted. I say this because your oil pressure at hot idle is not bad at all. Geo On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 9:25 AM, Jeremiah Curry wrote: > I am driving my TR3 from Salt Lake City to St. George UT about 300 miles, I > am > 60 miles into the trip. This is the farthest I've driven it since getting > it > running. I am seeing 30 psi at 65 mph (according to GPS) with no overdrive. > And 20 psi at idle. Is that way too low? Should I stop? From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Jul 16 13:41:32 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 12:41:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] 30 psi at 65 mph In-Reply-To: <0LdpM3-1R8cag0gGR-00ivQC@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <0LdpM3-1R8cag0gGR-00ivQC@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: Jeremiah ... ? Just kidding, I don't think it is a real problem, gauge could be off, and 30 psi seems low, but only a 10 psi difference from idle is encouraging, and way better than Zero psi, I would press on, but it is your car ... and your call ... you have of course checked you oil level and are running 20/50 good oil ... I am partial to Redline, but again a personal decision, I am sure you will hear other opinions, probably from drivers smarter than I ... I am driving my TR3 from Salt Lake City to St. George UT about 300 miles, I am 60 miles into the trip. This is the farthest I've driven it since getting it running. I am seeing 30 psi at 65 mph (according to GPS) with no overdrive. And 20 psi at idle. Is that way too low? Should I stop? Thanks, Jeremiah -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From jeremiah at curryclan.net Sat Jul 16 13:47:30 2011 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 13:47:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] 30 psi at 65 mph Message-ID: <0MPEym-1QmagZ07nM-005FJ5@mrelay.perfora.net> So I have driven another 120 miles without issue and the temp has stayed under 200. I am trying to adjust the valve is clockwise for more or less pressure, I can't get it to go in (clockwise) any more than it was, but I can loosen it more. -----Original Message----- From: Tony Drews Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 12:32 PM To: Jeremiah Curry ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] 30 psi at 65 mph One of the rules of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 RPM - so 20 psi at 2000 RPM, 30 psi at 3000 RPM, etc. 30 psi isn't great (I'd rather see 50) but it's not awful either. If it starts dropping, THAT's a "shut it down now" deal. If you've got access to some tools, you may try screwing the oil relief screw in a bit. This is a big screw / bolt with a locknut sticking out of the oil filter head. Tony Drews At 11:25 AM 7/16/2011, Jeremiah Curry wrote: >I am driving my TR3 from Salt Lake City to St. George UT about 300 miles, I am >60 miles into the trip. This is the farthest I've driven it since getting it From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Jul 16 14:43:58 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 13:43:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Torque Spec Message-ID: Need help for the torque spec, Caliper to front suspension ... I am guessing 44-55 lb ft, same as wheel nuts ... but just a guess. Thanks -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tochilds at bellsouth.net Sat Jul 16 15:08:14 2011 From: tochilds at bellsouth.net (Tony Childs) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 17:08:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding In-Reply-To: <1310819227.78012.YahooMailRC@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1310816949.19713.YahooMailRC@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <0D4A5CE34B1F4DBDADC6F891BDF9B95C@BobPC> <1310819227.78012.YahooMailRC@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cc43fc$7b10f430$7132dc90$@net> If you think about it, it actually pretty ingenious. The (front) chamber for the rear brakes is smaller and it does get filled from the "overflow" of filling the rear chamber. The rear brakes are drum brakes and have to be manually adjusted as they wear. The rear wheel cylinders don't hold much fluid and move very little even when adjustment is needed, so the chamber in the master cylinder doesn't need to be very large. The front brakes, being disc brakes, basically adjust themselves as the pads wear so it takes more fluid to fill the pistons in the calipers as this wear happens and it isn't drawn away from the rear chamber. Therefore, you need the larger chamber for the front brake circuit. The design assures that when you fill the larger chamber for the front brakes, you will always have rear brakes! Tony Childs Anderson, SC 1972 Spitfire MKIV FK38809UO -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex Cherington Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 8:27 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding Thanks for the replies. It looked like that was the case but the aperture for filling the front chamber looks way too small to easily get fluid into. Not the best of designs. ----- Original Message ---- From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: Alex Cherington ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 16 July, 2011 13:23:41 Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding The fluid goes into both chambers. The small front one is for the rear brakes and the large rear one is for the front brakes. Bleed them in order of distance: RR, LR, RF, LF Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Alex Cherington Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 7:49 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding My car is an ex US LHD May 1976 model. I have replaced my front pipes and calipers and want to bleed the brakes. With the cap off there appears to be 2 chambers as there is a piece of plastic across the reservoir. So does fluid go into the larger chamber or does fluid go in to the very small opening at the front too??? I am more used to the single system master cylinder as on my Mk3 Spitfire. Thanks triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tochilds at bellsouth.net From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sat Jul 16 15:12:53 2011 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 23:12:53 +0200 Subject: [TR] 30 psi at 65 mph In-Reply-To: <0LdpM3-1R8cag0gGR-00ivQC@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <0LdpM3-1R8cag0gGR-00ivQC@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: <62C4106BA71742B891FAF7346E7E010B@dbristerPC> If this drop in oil pressure is sudden you might consider dismantling the oil pressure relief valve on the top of the oil filter. Sometimes you can get a tiny piece of foreign matter stuck between the ball and it's seat and that is enough to drop the oil pressure from 70 to 30 at fast road speed. I've had this a few times. When undoing the thread that holds the spring in be sure to count the turns or the cleared PRV will give a wrong oil pressure. David Brister 1967 TR4A CTC 77785 O From tr6nut at verizon.net Sat Jul 16 16:31:43 2011 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 18:31:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Torque Spec In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E22114F.4000007@verizon.net> Bill, I don't have a TR3 or TR4, but I do have an old repair manual covers both models. It says 55 ft/lbs. Hugh Barber Stafford, Va '73 TR6 On 7/16/2011 04:43, Bill wrote: > Need help for the torque spec, Caliper to front suspension ... I am > guessing 44-55 lb ft, same as wheel nuts ... but just a guess. > > Thanks From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Jul 16 20:14:04 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 21:14:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] 30 psi at 65 mph In-Reply-To: <0MPEym-1QmagZ07nM-005FJ5@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <0MPEym-1QmagZ07nM-005FJ5@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: <20110717023128.8AA16187643@autox.team.net> Screwing it in (clockwise) can / should increase the pressure, screwing it out will decrease the pressure. If it's screwed in all the way, that fight's been fought already. As someone else said, you may have some debris in there preventing it from closing all the way. Sounds like the pressure is maintaining - finish the trip and deal with it when you've got tiem. Tony At 02:47 PM 7/16/2011, Jeremiah Curry wrote: >So I have driven another 120 miles without issue and the temp has >stayed under 200. I am trying to adjust the valve is clockwise for >more or less pressure, I can't get it to go in (clockwise) any more >than it was, but I can loosen it more. > >-----Original Message----- >From: Tony Drews >Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 12:32 PM >To: Jeremiah Curry ; triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] 30 psi at 65 mph > >One of the rules of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 RPM - so 20 psi at 2000 >RPM, 30 psi at 3000 RPM, etc. 30 psi isn't great (I'd rather see 50) >but it's not awful either. If it starts dropping, THAT's a "shut it >down now" deal. > >If you've got access to some tools, you may try screwing the oil >relief screw in a bit. This is a big screw / bolt with a locknut >sticking out of the oil filter head. > >Tony Drews > >At 11:25 AM 7/16/2011, Jeremiah Curry wrote: > >I am driving my TR3 from Salt Lake City to St. George UT about 300 > miles, I am > >60 miles into the trip. This is the farthest I've driven it since getting it > >running. I am seeing 30 psi at 65 mph (according to GPS) with no overdrive From carlsereda at aol.com Sun Jul 17 00:15:41 2011 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 23:15:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Quality of new TR floors by C-2-C Co.? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <75A93756.DF34.424B.8CED.45F213283172@aol.com> Hi all, Has anyone on this TRlist bought and installed the TR replacement steel floors sold by 'Classic 2 Current' company (link shown below)? http://c2cfabrication.com/store/index.php?manufacturers_id=29 They sell the new TR floors for $99.99 each. I see them on eBay a lot and the floors usually get bid up to $110-122.00 each time. Wondering if any listers here have any experience with them regarding fit, etc. Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 From mathews at uga.edu Sun Jul 17 01:59:53 2011 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 03:59:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Water Pump Destroyed Message-ID: <4E229679.6000609@uga.edu> With the recent comments on water pumps and how they can be destroyed, here are pictures of one I took out of one of my son's cars ( a Ford V6). No wonder it had cooling problems. *http://tinyurl.com/6hlepf7* I was amazed at how they could wear like that. Doug From jeremiah at curryclan.net Sun Jul 17 11:01:28 2011 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 11:01:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] was RE: 30 psi at 65 mph now white smoke In-Reply-To: <0MWUni-1Qx75H45pi-00XAjD@mx.perfora.net> References: <0MPEym-1QmagZ07nM-005FJ5@mrelay.perfora.net> <0MWUni-1Qx75H45pi-00XAjD@mx.perfora.net> Message-ID: <1CE83C438F2C4191ACFCEAB705F2FC33@littleone> It appears maybe I should have been more concerned. About 220 miles into the trip coming up a steep hill in 90 degree weather the car overheated very quickly. I started losing power and when I depressed the clutch, the engine totally stopped. I pulled over and lost about a gallon of coolant. Waited a while and then filled the radiator again. Car heated up a couple of more times, but not as bad. Then white smoke started coming out of the exhaust. When I stopped I noticed that one of the dashpot plungers had come loose and there was oil on the firewall behind it. I am not sure what that would do. I replaced and tightened it, but still white smoke. It also occurred to me that I dropped 2500 feet and that could impact the carb adjustments. I can't remember if elevation loss leads to leaner or richer running. The other thing I noticed was that there was a significant amount of smoke coming from the oil cap vent. What does that signify. I was running 10w40 and couldn't find 20w50 at any of the gas stations along the way. Car made it and still runs, but I am afraid I may have done permanent damage. Rings? Thanks, Jeremiah -----Original Message----- From: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com] Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 8:14 PM To: Jeremiah Curry; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] 30 psi at 65 mph Screwing it in (clockwise) can / should increase the pressure, screwing it out will decrease the pressure. If it's screwed in all the way, that fight's been fought already. As someone else said, you may have some debris in there preventing it from closing all the way. Sounds like the pressure is maintaining - finish the trip and deal with it when you've got tiem. Tony At 02:47 PM 7/16/2011, Jeremiah Curry wrote: >So I have driven another 120 miles without issue and the temp has >stayed under 200. I am trying to adjust the valve is clockwise for >more or less pressure, I can't get it to go in (clockwise) any more >than it was, but I can loosen it more. > >-----Original Message----- >From: Tony Drews >Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 12:32 PM >To: Jeremiah Curry ; triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] 30 psi at 65 mph > >One of the rules of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 RPM - so 20 psi at 2000 >RPM, 30 psi at 3000 RPM, etc. 30 psi isn't great (I'd rather see 50) >but it's not awful either. If it starts dropping, THAT's a "shut it >down now" deal. > >If you've got access to some tools, you may try screwing the oil >relief screw in a bit. This is a big screw / bolt with a locknut >sticking out of the oil filter head. > >Tony Drews > >At 11:25 AM 7/16/2011, Jeremiah Curry wrote: > >I am driving my TR3 from Salt Lake City to St. George UT about 300 > miles, I am > >60 miles into the trip. This is the farthest I've driven it since getting it > >running. I am seeing 30 psi at 65 mph (according to GPS) with no overdrive From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jul 17 11:38:24 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 11:38:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] was RE: 30 psi at 65 mph now white smoke In-Reply-To: <1CE83C438F2C4191ACFCEAB705F2FC33@littleone> References: <0MPEym-1QmagZ07nM-005FJ5@mrelay.perfora.net> <0MWUni-1Qx75H45pi-00XAjD@mx.perfora.net> <1CE83C438F2C4191ACFCEAB705F2FC33@littleone> Message-ID: <4E231E10.2030200@bradakis.com> > Car made it and still runs, but I am afraid I may have done permanent > damage. Rings? > > Thanks, > Jeremiah > > Sounds more like head gasket issues. mjb. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jul 17 11:46:17 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 10:46:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] was RE: 30 psi at 65 mph now white smoke In-Reply-To: <1CE83C438F2C4191ACFCEAB705F2FC33@littleone> References: <0MPEym-1QmagZ07nM-005FJ5@mrelay.perfora.net><0MWUni-1Qx75H45pi-00XAjD@mx.perfora.net> <1CE83C438F2C4191ACFCEAB705F2FC33@littleone> Message-ID: <029e01cc44a9$6e895ec0$0301a8c0@randall> > Car made it and still runs, but I am afraid I may have done permanent > damage. Rings? Hopefully it's just a head gasket, not a cracked head. The white smoke is actually steam. And compression gases leaking into the coolant jacket really mess up the cooling. -- Randall From kazmo65 at yahoo.com Sun Jul 17 13:36:17 2011 From: kazmo65 at yahoo.com (Kaz Kotlow) Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 12:36:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Oil leakage Message-ID: <1310931377.94546.YahooMailClassic@web36908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I have a '63 TR4 that has been off the road for a few years. When it was running I had some oil seepage into the cooling system. As a result the engine would start to overheat after sustained use. I'm interested in two things. 1. Just what is the likely problem? 2. How much? Is it worth trying to fix this type of problem or should I be looking for a replacement engine? The car is not totally original so I'm not overly concerned about having matching numbers so another TR4 engine wouldn't bother me. Thanks. Kaz From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Jul 17 14:07:58 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 15:07:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oil leakage In-Reply-To: <1310931377.94546.YahooMailClassic@web36908.mail.mud.yahoo. com> References: <1310931377.94546.YahooMailClassic@web36908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20110717200814.D9425187657@autox.team.net> Probably head gasket, but could be something cracked (like the head or block). Tony At 02:36 PM 7/17/2011, Kaz Kotlow wrote: >I have a '63 TR4 that has been off the road for a few years. When it was >running I had some oil seepage into the cooling system. As a result the >engine would start to overheat after sustained use. I'm interested in two >things. >1. Just what is the likely problem? >2. How much? Is it worth trying to fix this type of problem or should I be >looking for a replacement engine? The car is not totally original so I'm not >overly concerned about having matching numbers so another TR4 engine wouldn't >bother me. >Thanks. >Kaz From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jul 17 15:47:20 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 17:47:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Got the GT6 running! Message-ID: <4E232028.4570.E47589D@localhost> Today was an even better day. I got the GT6 fully assembled. It fired up without too much trouble and I drove it aroudn the neighbohood successfully. Even used 3 of the 4 gears. They all worked. The clutch behaved and sounded normal. This was all due to a squealing bearing between the input and mainshafts, also producing a whine on overrun. I had a local machine shop put a hardened sleeve on the tip of the mainshaft, then installed new bearings of course. I took the opportuntity to have a pin put into the brass TO bearing holder to eliminate the noise where it had gotten so worn. It's only been a year or so... Yay!!! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jul 17 16:20:32 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 16:20:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] Oil leakage In-Reply-To: <1310931377.94546.YahooMailClassic@web36908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1310931377.94546.YahooMailClassic@web36908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E236030.2070009@bradakis.com> The car is junk. Tow it to my place in Salt Lake City, I'll give you $1,000 cash when you get here. mjb. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Jul 17 16:38:57 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 15:38:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 30psi at 65 Message-ID: <1310942337.24230.YahooMailNeo@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> This might be kind of late but I was wondering if this is a fresh engine? I lost pressure on a new re-build (tr-6) and a change of oil filter took care of that. It was simply swarf from the engine breaking in that had affected the pressure. With white smoke ect. I'm thinking your into more than that. gary n. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Jul 17 20:36:42 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 19:36:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] was RE: 30 psi at 65 mph now white smoke In-Reply-To: <029e01cc44a9$6e895ec0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <0MPEym-1QmagZ07nM-005FJ5@mrelay.perfora.net> <0MWUni-1Qx75H45pi-00XAjD@mx.perfora.net> <1CE83C438F2C4191ACFCEAB705F2FC33@littleone> <029e01cc44a9$6e895ec0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 10:46 AM, Randall wrote: > ...And compression gases leaking into the coolant jacket really mess up the > cooling. > And worth mentioning that (in my experience) when this is happening the temp gauge may behave strangely as it is better at measuring coolant temperature than 'air' temperature. IOW, I wouldn't rely solely on the temp gauge as an indicator of whether there is sufficient coolant & cooling in place. Not sure what your plans are in St George but I once replaced a head gasket on the TR3 under a big oak tree in a woods. A good assortment of wrenches and torque wrench are about all it takes tool-wise. From davgil at aol.com Mon Jul 18 07:08:41 2011 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 09:08:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] radiator contamination Message-ID: <8CE1362F3552E20-2350-29EE@webmail-m129.sysops.aol.com> To the more well informed. Yesterday was a beautiful weekend in North Georgia and I had the opportunity for a nice drive with my 1976 TR6. Great day until I heard that unusual sound from up front and then smelled the unmistakeable odor of an overheated fan belt. As I looked for a place to pull off the road, I watched the termperature climb to the top of my gauge. Upon parking at a safe location I popped the bonnet and watched the coolant continue to boil into the overflow bottle. Fortunately replacement of the broken belt (great reason to have a spare on hand) and a half gallon of water into the cooled down radiator did the trick. The problem was that when I was able to remove the radiator cap, I found several pieces of what appeared to be blue form-a-gasket material at the filler neck. My car always runs pretty cool and I have not had any overheating issues. I don't believe that it got hot enough to damage the head. Other than draining and flushing the coolant system, should I worry about checking anything else? I probably ran it another 30 minutes after the repair and no signs of any problem whatsoever, or any leaking around the head or water pump. Your advice is welcomed. Regards David Gill 1976 TR6 From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Jul 18 07:50:32 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 08:50:32 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] radiator contamination Message-ID: <32344698.189126.1310997032076.JavaMail.root@vznit170134> From pboldtrix at juno.com Mon Jul 18 10:16:45 2011 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 16:16:45 GMT Subject: [TR] Test please delete Message-ID: <20110718.121645.28503.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> Juno deleting message posts? ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 3000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4e245cb8384517c089st04vuc From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 18 10:41:10 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 09:41:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] radiator contamination In-Reply-To: <8CE1362F3552E20-2350-29EE@webmail-m129.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE1362F3552E20-2350-29EE@webmail-m129.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <04e601cc4569$8097dae0$81c790a0$@rr.com> > The problem was that when I was able to remove the radiator > cap, I > found several pieces of what appeared to be blue form-a-gasket material > at the filler neck. Most likely nothing to worry about, as long as it continues to run cool. But it wouldn't hurt to backflush the radiator, in case any pieces got caught in a tube. The problem is the blue form-a-gasket (aka silicone RTV). If you aren't very careful how you use it, it can squeeze out of the joint inside the passages and form a bead of material that can later break off into long strings. This is exactly the reason I don't use the stuff unless I have access to remove the strings. On my "LBC support vehicle", a professional mechanic used RTV when replacing the water pump. The resulting strings clogged the heater until it wouldn't produce any heat. Had to have it power-flushed several times, and it still doesn't work as well as it should. -- Randall From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Mon Jul 18 11:59:50 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 18:59:50 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] radiator contamination In-Reply-To: <04e601cc4569$8097dae0$81c790a0$@rr.com> References: <8CE1362F3552E20-2350-29EE@webmail-m129.sysops.aol.com> <04e601cc4569$8097dae0$81c790a0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1311011990.97264.YahooMailNeo@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> I agree with Randall about instant gasket gunge. Many years ago as a wet-behind-the-ears Apprentice at Jaguar, I used the same technique - and got caught by the Engine Assembly Foreman. The punishment for that little misdemeanour was to go on all fours and push a table tennis ball round the Sports Club football pitch with my nose in my lunch break! That's a humiliation you never forget but it was accepted practice in those days. If you had any sense, you *never* crossed swords with a Foreman. With instant gunge, there's too much of a risk of surplus ooze getting where you don't want it and being a long-term PITA. In any case, where paper gaskets are used around water pumps and stat housings, it's easy enough to make your own, using gasket paper. May take a bit longer but an enjoyable activity and if you carefully trim the finished article with a pair of scissors or craft knife, it can be a very pleasing experience. Then, just a light smear of Hermetite (or whatever) on the mating faces and you're done - with no worries. Jonmac From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jul 18 15:57:01 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 21:57:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] radiator contamination In-Reply-To: <04e601cc4569$8097dae0$81c790a0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1472939991.795814.1311026221091.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> My question is where the blue gunk was applied. Guy at work has a small MG. Told me he was planning to replace the head gasket using the silicon to seal. I advised against it, but he did it anyway. My worry is the strings not only get into the coolant, but can't it also get into the oil so's you'd almost not know until too late? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From diggle at clear.net.nz Mon Jul 18 21:00:27 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz) Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 15:00:27 +1200 Subject: [TR] Valves Message-ID: <4e24f34b.1c1.4316.16094@clear.net.nz> First I'd like to thank the replies to earlier questions. I am going to remove the engine and gearbox to make the repainting etc of the engine bay easier. I will have a look at the state of the bearings and am trying to decide whether to fit hardened exhaust seats for the leadless New Zealand petrol. If I do I was thinking of fitting larger exhaust valves. Rimmers have them for about US$14 ea, has anyone tried these valves? Jim and the 1962 TR4 From dkspence at telus.net Mon Jul 18 23:26:34 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don) Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 23:26:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] How tall is too tall in a TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I am selling my 72 TR6 and have an inquiry from a Gent who at 6'2" is concerned as to whether there will be enough legroom. ( he lives a fair way away so can't pop over to "try it on") Any over six footers out there with any insight? Cheers From FrankB at saceboard.sa.gov.au Tue Jul 19 00:06:57 2011 From: FrankB at saceboard.sa.gov.au (Biedermann, Frank (SACE Board)) Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 15:36:57 +0930 Subject: [TR] How tall is too tall in a TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ah, the same height as me then. I can confirm a lack of a problem fitting into my TR6. I believe I either have the driver's seat either on the last notch, or the second to last (can't remember as it's been a while), but I certainly don't have any trouble fitting in (and I find it more comfortable than several modern cars I've been in too). Frank Biedermann '69 TR6 PI Adelaide, Australia -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Tuesday, 19 July 2011 2:57 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] How tall is too tall in a TR6? I am selling my 72 TR6 and have an inquiry from a Gent who at 6'2" is concerned as to whether there will be enough legroom. ( he lives a fair way away so can't pop over to "try it on") Any over six footers out there with any insight? Cheers triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frankb at saceboard.sa.gov.au From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jul 19 00:22:08 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 23:22:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] How tall is too tall in a TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <892010A4CFF845FF8F632B554A643DFB@Vista> It depends a lot on the individual. People with long legs and short torsos might not fit as easily as someone with a long torso and short lets. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 10:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] How tall is too tall in a TR6? I am selling my 72 TR6 and have an inquiry from a Gent who at 6'2" is concerned as to whether there will be enough legroom. ( he lives a fair way away so can't pop over to "try it on") Any over six footers out there with any insight? Cheers triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 19 03:08:34 2011 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6) Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:08:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] How tall is too tall in a TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have a friend who is 6'4" and he drives both a TR6 and a TR3 without problems. Larry Miceli Mount Dora, FLA Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: Don Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 23:26:34 To: Subject: Re: [TR] How tall is too tall in a TR6? I am selling my 72 TR6 and have an inquiry from a Gent who at 6'2" is concerned as to whether there will be enough legroom. ( he lives a fair way away so can't pop over to "try it on") Any over six footers out there with any insight? Cheers triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Jul 19 04:26:37 2011 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 06:26:37 EDT Subject: [TR] How tall is too tall in a TR6? Message-ID: <3d9d3.43e7ed5.3b56b5dd@aol.com> I'm a short torso/long leg 6 footer. I find more legroom in my TR3 than in the TR6's I've driven, but nevertheless legroom will no doubt be the least of your potential buyer's concerns. No issue at all. Tim in Ottawa, Canada. From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Tue Jul 19 05:17:51 2011 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4) Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 12:17:51 +0100 Subject: [TR] Valves In-Reply-To: <4e24f34b.1c1.4316.16094@clear.net.nz> References: <4e24f34b.1c1.4316.16094@clear.net.nz> Message-ID: <26CC27877EE54D4E95E8CA62970623EA@AdrianPC> Valves capable of unleaded fuel are a must these days. What many people do not realise is that only the exhaust valves need changing. So if the original inlet valves are OK and not worn they can be reused or replaced with standard valves not expensive stainless steel ones. One tip I learned many years ago to improve gas flow was to reduce the contact sealing area of each valve, even to the point of creating a radius on the valve rather than a flat seal between valve and cylinder head. While you are at it I would open out the cylinder head to reduce the valve seats to about 1/16th of an inch. The valves from Rimmer are stainless steel and are perfectly OK. I paid #6.00 + VAT GBP for mine from TR Bitz. (I guess this is about $9.00/10.00 USD) each and as an export item you would not be required to pay UK VAT @ 20% extra. TR Bitz are an excellent company for new and used items. NFI of course. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 4:00 AM Subject: [TR] Valves > First I'd like to thank the replies to earlier questions. > > I am going to remove the engine and gearbox to make the > repainting etc of the engine bay easier. I will have a look > at the state of the bearings and am trying to decide whether > to fit hardened exhaust seats for the leadless New Zealand > petrol. > If I do I was thinking of fitting larger exhaust valves. > Rimmers have them for about US$14 ea, has anyone tried these > valves? > > Jim and the 1962 TR4 > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jul 19 05:41:46 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 07:41:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] How tall is too tall in a TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5C18D3C9B0364301AF21BC955369866D@BobPC> Good old Buckeye has an article on how a 6'5" guy modified his car to fit. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Tall/TR6Tall.htm Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Don Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 1:26 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] How tall is too tall in a TR6? I am selling my 72 TR6 and have an inquiry from a Gent who at 6'2" is concerned as to whether there will be enough legroom. ( he lives a fair way away so can't pop over to "try it on") Any over six footers out there with any insight? Cheers triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 19 05:48:44 2011 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 04:48:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] How tall is too tall in a TR6? In-Reply-To: <20110719093643.B4BB71878B2@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1311076124.94609.YahooMailClassic@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I'm over 6' with a 34" inseam, so I have pretty long legs. No problems whatsoever. From fishplate at charter.net Tue Jul 19 16:38:14 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 18:38:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valves In-Reply-To: <26CC27877EE54D4E95E8CA62970623EA@AdrianPC> References: <4e24f34b.1c1.4316.16094@clear.net.nz> <26CC27877EE54D4E95E8CA62970623EA@AdrianPC> Message-ID: <4E260756.1060506@charter.net> On 7/19/2011 7:17 AM, Dixie4 wrote: > One tip I learned many years ago to improve gas flow was to reduce the > contact sealing area of each valve, even to the point of creating a > radius on the valve rather than a flat seal between valve and cylinder > head. Isn't this what we call a 3-angle valve job? From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Jul 20 15:54:23 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 14:54:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations Message-ID: Let me first acknowledge that NONE of these events are attributed to my DPO, in this case he was, is, and always will be Distinguished Previous Owner in my book ... just a few notes on how the season is going. Actually our TR6 is running and looking great. We have decided not to enter any SCCA Judged Concours this year, Rosey (TR6) was restored in 1998 and is beginning to show her age, also the work required is just too much for us old feeble folks ... Casper (TR3) however is another story ... On the Snowball 500 Rallye he decided to shed a couple of teeth of of the differential pinion gear. On disassembly it was discovered that who ever did this the last time had not centered the axle tube correctly, causing one side to be one (1) inch forward of the other. It does say much about the durability of the car, been that way for years, at least ever since we owned it, but finally gave up. So we had to replace the entire axle tube/diff assembly, no easy task, and finally had it done except for bleeding the brakes ... using the "start from the furthest from the master cylinder" all went well until I went to the Right Front ... only to find the bleeder screw had been sheered off. I took it to a really good machine shop and they could not get it out ... so the guy who put it in must be at least as strong as the Terminator. Luckily my friend Wayne, who has tons (literally) of used Triumph parts found me a good used one. Which is currently drying its paint, after being wire brushed and having all the brake line parts assembled. Brake line connections are a PAIN IN THE ASS !!!, pardon my French. I have had to remove and install eight (8) of them knowing full well that a simple mistake would lead to the dreaded "cross-thread" condition ... but I managed to get it all done, now I just have to put the caliper back on, hook one last connection and see how many leaks there will be ... >:-o Other than that things are going great. One Day Later After testing things and of course re-bleeding all the brakes, I am happy to report that Casper is rolling ... and Stopping ... no leaks, spent the last two days washing off grease spots from greasy hands, nice new coat of SmartWax, AnnaBelle cleaned and treated all the upholstery ... we will be taking him to breakfast tomorrow ... Just because we can -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jul 20 16:28:18 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 15:28:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1310689530.24433.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1310666354.698.YahooMailNeo@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <666903149.706176.1310684470118.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1310689530.24433.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1311200898.59549.YahooMailNeo@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> final question on this. J type O/D for sure running nicely on the freeway, not pulling hard or coasting. 55mph revs = 2200/2300 O/D engaged or running without O/D engaged? thanks Frank From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Jul 20 16:54:24 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 17:54:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1311200898.59549.YahooMailNeo@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1310666354.698.YahooMailNeo@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <666903149.706176.1310684470118.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1310689530.24433.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1311200898.59549.YahooMailNeo@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 5:28 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > final question on this. > J type O/D for sure > running nicely on the freeway, not pulling hard or coasting. > 55mph > revs = 2200/2300 > O/D engaged or running without O/D engaged? > If the tires are stock diameter, that should be overdrive engaged. At 55 with stock diameter tires, you should see around 2700-2800 in 4th direct. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 20 16:57:53 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 18:57:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes Message-ID: <232d7.fca7ad4.3b58b771@cs.com> In a message dated 7/20/2011 5:50:36 PM Central Daylight Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > final question on this. > J type O/D for sure > running nicely on the freeway, not pulling hard or coasting. > 55mph > revs = 2200/2300 > O/D engaged or running without O/D engaged? > If you were running direct fourth gear you would run about 44 MPH at 2200 RPM. 55 MPH at 2200 certainly suggests the OD is engaged. Of course all the caveats apply. Assuming your speedo and tach are reasonably accurate. And you have a stock differential. Dave From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Jul 20 17:06:27 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 16:06:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1311200898.59549.YahooMailNeo@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1310666354.698.YahooMailNeo@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <666903149.706176.1310684470118.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail. comcast.net> <1310689530.24433.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1311200898.59549.YahooMailNeo@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Not sure how relevant this is but that RPM on our TR6 with 5 speed conversion (ratios about the same) in 5th gear equals 65 mph ... so I am guess No OverDrive ... >final question on this. >J type O/D for sure >running nicely on the freeway, not pulling hard or coasting. >55mph >revs = 2200/2300 >O/D engaged or running without O/D engaged? >thanks >Frank > -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jul 20 17:21:21 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 16:21:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr6 reversing woes In-Reply-To: <1311200898.59549.YahooMailNeo@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1310666354.698.YahooMailNeo@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <666903149.706176.1310684470118.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1310689530.24433.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1311200898.59549.YahooMailNeo@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002701cc4733$bf28d450$3d7a7cf0$@rr.com> > 55mph > revs = 2200/2300 OD engaged. Not engaged would be 2700 or so (assuming you have a 3.70 differential). -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jul 20 17:26:56 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 16:26:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002801cc4734$84972070$8dc56150$@rr.com> > all went > well until I went to the Right Front ... only to find the bleeder > screw had been sheered off. I took it to a really good machine shop > and they could not get it out ... so the guy who put it in must be at > least as strong as the Terminator. More likely rust, IMO. Conventional brake fluid is amazingly corrosive, especially when it gets old. If it's any consolation, both of the caliper bleed screws were stuck on TS13571L when it came to me, and sheared off rather than turning even after application of heat and PB Blaster. Fortunately, I had the calipers from the wrecked TR3A handy (which had DOT 5 and NO corrosion). -- Randall From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Jul 21 14:42:33 2011 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 16:42:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] European spec HS4's Message-ID: I am considering swapping out the HS2's on my Spitfire for a set of the European spec HS4's that came on the 1500's over the pond. Anybody have a set and manifold they might want to do some horse trading for? Have HS2's, 3/4 ZS, heads, blocks, GT6 engine, can powder coat your parts, tyranny's, wife's small dog, mother in law, what do you need? Marty From wayne at motorcarriage.com Thu Jul 21 15:00:51 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 17:00:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] European spec HS4's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3F224B564D354907AACCF1D0BBE6FDD6@Engineering> Hi Marty, I have a set I bought for my 69 Spitfire Project which I'm now selling as well. They are still all mounted together as an assembly on the manifold with linkage. I paid $275.00 + shipping from Quantum Mechanics. I'll sacrifice them for $225.00 plus shipping. I'll be posting my 69 Mk 3 with Steel Hardtop project soon for sale as well. I also have single Weber 40/45 Manifold I'll sell and new in crate TKC 1155 Cylinder Head in oil paper wrap in crate. NOS Stanpart. Regards, Wayne Lee -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2011 4:43 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] European spec HS4's I am considering swapping out the HS2's on my Spitfire for a set of the European spec HS4's that came on the 1500's over the pond. Anybody have a set and manifold they might want to do some horse trading for? Have HS2's, 3/4 ZS, heads, blocks, GT6 engine, can powder coat your parts, tyranny's, wife's small dog, mother in law, what do you need? Marty triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.17960) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.17960) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Jul 21 15:31:54 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 15:31:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] Radiator and Gas Tank tech session Message-ID: <8E1BB346-3C90-4DE3-9BD8-B70E237C53DD@comcast.net> For those attending VTR2011 in Breckenridge this year you might want to attend one of the Friday tech sessions that will be put on by Carl Spike of Spike Radiators here in Denver. Carl came to a RMTC chapter meeting and gave a talk and we just about didn't let him go home because we had so many questions. Fortunately he has lots of answers. He does a lot of vintage radiators and gas tanks and knows everything from the chemistry of anti-freezes and additives (get the scoop on water wetter) that are marketed to the number of rows and fin counts to use. His sessions are 9:30-11:00 and 2:00-3:30 on Friday August 19th. You can park your car for the car show that day and then attend one of Carl's sessions. You will walk away smarter, I can almost guarantee it. Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jul 21 15:43:34 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 21:43:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1460743101.38366.1311284614218.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >the bleeder screw had been sheered off. I took it to a really good machine shop >and they could not get it out ... so the guy who put it in must be at least as strong as the Terminator. I cannot let this go unchallenged, Bill. You see, when I was restoring '59 TR3A TS 58667, I tried to take off the bleeder screw in both front calipers. They were rusted solid so broke off flush with the hole. Doggedly, I tapped an an easy-out into the hole and gently twisted. It broke off inside the hole. Thankfully I had learned my lesson so even more gently tapped an easy-out into the second caliper and was gratified when I succeeded...Uhm...to break it, but more slowly. So, with frozen bleeder screws in each caliper AND with carefully snapped easy-outs buggering each one, I sent these craftily designed challenge calipers to Quantum Mechanics. They returned the calipers completely rebuilt and with no additional charge for my having been so thoughtful for them. They also included no LOL or smiley face on their much deserved invoice to insinuate their misunderestanding that I had other than purposefully provided this opportunity to alleviate professional boredom. NFI, just a very satisfied customer. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Jul 21 15:53:30 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:53:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: <1460743101.38366.1311284614218.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail. comcast.net> References: <1460743101.38366.1311284614218.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail. comcast.net> Message-ID: Ah ... these cars ... they do test you from time to time, but Casper took AnnaBelle and I to breakfast this morning in the lovely Sierra foothills town of San Andreas ... 75F nice roads, what more could you ask ... Casper now sports a small decal from Hagerty on his windshield ... "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" .... Pretty much says it all > >the bleeder screw had been sheered off. I took it to a really >good machine shop >>and they could not get it out ... so the guy who put it in must be >>at least as strong as the Terminator. > >I cannot let this go unchallenged, Bill. > >You see, when I was restoring '59 TR3A TS 58667, I tried to take off >the bleeder screw in both front calipers. They were rusted solid so >broke off flush with the hole. > >Doggedly, I tapped an an easy-out into the hole and gently twisted. >It broke off inside the hole. Thankfully I had learned my lesson so >even more gently tapped an easy-out into the second caliper and was >gratified when I succeeded...Uhm...to break it, but more slowly. > >So, with frozen bleeder screws in each caliper AND with carefully >snapped easy-outs buggering each one, I sent these craftily designed >challenge calipers to Quantum Mechanics. > >They returned the calipers completely rebuilt and with no additional >charge for my having been so thoughtful for them. They also >included no LOL or smiley face on their much deserved invoice to >insinuate their misunderestanding that I had other than purposefully >provided this opportunity to alleviate professional boredom. > >NFI, just a very satisfied customer. > >Terry Smith, '59 TR3A >New Hampshire -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Jul 21 15:56:27 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 15:56:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] Radiator and Gas Tank tech session Message-ID: For those attending VTR2011 in Breckenridge this year you might want to attend one of the Friday tech sessions that will be put on by Carl Spike of Spike Radiators here in Denver. Carl came to a RMTC chapter meeting and gave a talk and we just about didn't let him go home because we had so many questions. Fortunately he has lots of answers. He does a lot of vintage radiators and gas tanks and knows everything from the chemistry of anti-freezes and additives (get the scoop on water wetter) that are marketed to the number of rows and fin counts to use. His sessions are 9:30-11:00 and 2:00-3:30 on Friday August 19th. You can park your car for the car show that day and then attend one of Carl's sessions. You will walk away smarter, I can almost guarantee it. Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Jul 21 20:31:40 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 02:31:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3, TR4 slave cylinder position Message-ID: <2052598045.107205.1311301900899.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, In spite of what the manuals show, I've always mounted the clutch slave cylinder on my TR3 at the rear of its bracket, that is, on the transmission side. The adjustable rod just isn't long enough to extend to the 3 hole arm with the piston home (at the bottom of the bore) and the slave mounted on the front (engine side) of the bracket. Anyone else's TR3 or TR4 with the 3 finger clutch have this situation? By the way, the TR6's slave is mounted to the rear in the manual's photos, but then it uses the diaphragm clutch and there is no adjustment. Ed Woods From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 22 00:36:35 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 23:36:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3, TR4 slave cylinder position In-Reply-To: <2052598045.107205.1311301900899.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <2052598045.107205.1311301900899.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <01c701cc4839$b477fd40$0301a8c0@randall> > The adjustable rod just > isn't long enough to extend to the 3 hole arm with the piston > home (at the bottom of the bore) and the slave mounted on the > front (engine side) of the bracket. I had a similar problem once, although I made up a longer pushrod rather than reconfiguring the slave. Eventually I replaced the broken taper pin and went back to the stock pushrod. Now with the TR6 transmission I have the opposite problem, because the thicker transmission flange moved the slave cylinder to the rear. -- Randall From wayne at motorcarriage.com Fri Jul 22 11:37:19 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 13:37:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs For Sale in MA Message-ID: Hi All, I hope there's no rules against informing the list of me attempting to sell my Triumphs. I have a nice 75 TR6 with Hardtop. Pimento Red with Chestnut Interior For Sale. Has Heritage Certificate showing it as original. Hardtop is on the Car. I have a new Robbins Soft Top in box yet to be installed. SU Conversion. Also have original Stromberg's still mounted On Manifold. Has earlier Exhaust Manifold (non air injection) with ANSA Exhaust. Non-Overdrive, And Interior needs Carpeting and the Drivers Seat has one rip and both are collapsed in the cushioning. I'm trying to move quickly to finish a deal on a March 719 Formula Car. Looking for $8K or best offer. Presently Registered and have clean Title. Look for pictures in this Album. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.100353303329760.613.10000065271579 8&type=1 Also have 64 TR4 project. Nice straight Tub and Body Panels. Complete, also has American Racing Mags And a Fiberglass Hard top that's not secured correctly. Just was best for Storage. Engine out but looks Good and turns freely. Header and Carbs still in Engine Bay. Looking for $3500 or best offer. Please email wayne at sportsracer.com for pictures. Lastly 69 Spitfire Mk 3 w/Steel Hardtop project for sale. Engine out. Have new Exhaust System not on the Car, New Wood For Dash in box. Solid Car with 2 Tranny's and 2 extra Doors. Needs complete restoration, mostly already down to original Painted floors, no Carpeting etc. Trunk bare and solid. Would make nice FIA Rally Replica. Looking for $1500. or best offer. Also have Land Rover Series IIA 109 3-Door for sale. Pics are in the Album above. Brand New Marsland Galvanized Frame On the side that Rovers North sells for $3400. Would take $3900. for all, or will separate. Sorry for No Triumph content here. Regards, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 508-499-6746 days 508-476-5155 home ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.17970) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From anncarletta at yahoo.com Fri Jul 22 12:34:44 2011 From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 11:34:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] looking for RHD 1963 or earlier Message-ID: <1311359684.57828.YahooMailClassic@web113807.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hi guys, I was looking for an RHD for a project. Any chance someone knows where to look. Needs to be 1963 or earlier (maybe to '56). Not looking for a show car, just something that is driveable. Ann 1960 Triumph TR3A From wayne at motorcarriage.com Fri Jul 22 13:08:00 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 15:08:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs For Sale in MA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sorry, That Album is open to anyone, the link just got broken up. Copy and paste together if you have trouble again, and place in address bar. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.100353303329760.613.10000065271579 8&type=1 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 2:47 PM To: Wayne Lee Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs For Sale in MA Can't view the FB album.......... is it open to anyone or just FB friends? Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Wayne Lee Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 1:37 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: sportsracer at live.com Subject: [TR] Triumphs For Sale in MA Hi All, I hope there's no rules against informing the list of me attempting to sell my Triumphs. I have a nice 75 TR6 with Hardtop. Pimento Red with Chestnut Interior For Sale. Has Heritage Certificate showing it as original. Hardtop is on the Car. I have a new Robbins Soft Top in box yet to be installed. SU Conversion. Also have original Stromberg's still mounted On Manifold. Has earlier Exhaust Manifold (non air injection) with ANSA Exhaust. Non-Overdrive, And Interior needs Carpeting and the Drivers Seat has one rip and both are collapsed in the cushioning. I'm trying to move quickly to finish a deal on a March 719 Formula Car. Looking for $8K or best offer. Presently Registered and have clean Title. Look for pictures in this Album. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.100353303329760.613.10000065271579 8&type=1 Also have 64 TR4 project. Nice straight Tub and Body Panels. Complete, also has American Racing Mags And a Fiberglass Hard top that's not secured correctly. Just was best for Storage. Engine out but looks Good and turns freely. Header and Carbs still in Engine Bay. Looking for $3500 or best offer. Please email wayne at sportsracer.com for pictures. Lastly 69 Spitfire Mk 3 w/Steel Hardtop project for sale. Engine out. Have new Exhaust System not on the Car, New Wood For Dash in box. Solid Car with 2 Tranny's and 2 extra Doors. Needs complete restoration, mostly already down to original Painted floors, no Carpeting etc. Trunk bare and solid. Would make nice FIA Rally Replica. Looking for $1500. or best offer. Also have Land Rover Series IIA 109 3-Door for sale. Pics are in the Album above. Brand New Marsland Galvanized Frame On the side that Rovers North sells for $3400. Would take $3900. for all, or will separate. Sorry for No Triumph content here. Regards, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 508-499-6746 days 508-476-5155 home ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.17970) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.17970) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.17970) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Fri Jul 22 13:47:48 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 20:47:48 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Special commemmorative car Message-ID: <1311364068.90694.YahooMailNeo@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> I know this ought to appear on the MG list - but it makes one wonder if the same might be done for Triumph, subject to BMW giving a green light, which is doubtful. I see that the latest edition of Practical Classics in the UK has announced that British Motor Heritage has joined forces with another specialist to build just 50 MGBGT 'one-offs' to mark the thirty years that has passed since the last MG left Abingdon. Using the original body jigs, the cars will use a Mazda 2.0 litre engine and a six speed manual box. Power output is indicated to be in excess of 210burps and with a slight modification to the front suspenders. The announcement in the August edition of Practical Classics didn't give *all* the info, except for the fact that the price is likely to be in excess of GBP50k - approx 80k US. It would be nice to see a TR6 getting a similar comemmorative treatment but I guess the lederhosen clad mob in Munchen would veto it. Perhaps the best that Triumph enthusiasts can hope for is a barely rebodied version of that so-called 'mini' with some Triumph Globe roundels slapped on the hubcaps? Jonmac From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Jul 22 14:32:12 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 15:32:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Special commemmorative car In-Reply-To: <1311364068.90694.YahooMailNeo@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <1311364068.90694.YahooMailNeo@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John - I have a lot of respect for you, but I really don't see the point in reviving old marques, or making special one offs like these. the cars are old, pugnacious, and really have little to do with todays cars except for geneology. who would compare an xjs with an xk140? I really believe that the old cars are old; they are special, and trying to revive them makes no sense. I grant an exception for the mini, which really carried on the spirit of the old car, but I just don't see a "new" Triumph being at all relevant to the old one. even the new MGF IMHO had little to do with the old mgb I've got in the garage. the old cars and the old marques are gone. they are wonderful, historical, and I love mine. but don't revive an old marque and get all misty eyed about how great it is for it to be back. its not. its new, modern, and thank goodness for that. at some point you move forward. Datsun did it with the 240z - it has nothing to do with the old roadsters. but the 240, 260, 280, 350, 370 I think is a continuous chain. we've left the old British roadsters behind; they took a lot longer to die, but they are gone. -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Macartney" Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 2:47 PM To: "Triumph List" Subject: [TR] Special commemmorative car > I know this ought to appear on the MG list - but it makes one wonder if > the > same might be done for Triumph, subject to BMW giving a green light, which > is > doubtful. > > I see that the latest edition of Practical Classics in the UK has > announced that British Motor Heritage has joined forces with another > specialist to build just 50 MGBGT 'one-offs' to mark the thirty years that > has > passed since the last MG left Abingdon. Using the original body jigs, the > cars > will use a Mazda 2.0 litre engine and a six speed manual box. Power output > is > indicated to be in excess of 210burps and with a slight modification to > the > front suspenders. The announcement in the August edition of Practical > Classics > didn't give *all* the info, except for the fact that the price is likely > to be > in excess of GBP50k - approx 80k US. > > It would be nice to see a TR6 getting a > similar comemmorative treatment but I guess the lederhosen clad mob in > Munchen > would veto it. Perhaps the best that Triumph enthusiasts can hope for is a > barely rebodied version of that so-called 'mini' with some Triumph Globe > roundels slapped on the hubcaps? > > Jonmac > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sumton at sbcglobal.net From agraham at execulink.com Fri Jul 22 14:39:17 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 16:39:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3/3/a Advance Auto Wire kit available. Message-ID: <4E29DFF5.4000209@execulink.com> Hello List: Apologize bombing the list again with 'for sale' items. Thought some listers might be interested in the Advance Auto Wire 'Power Block' wiring kit I have available. It is the TR2/3/3A version. Never been installed. Decided to retain the stock appearance of my '2 project. An excellent quality kit. If interested, you can contact me off list. Thanks again. Angelo Graham Waterloo, ON (Canada) From davidt at opentext.com Fri Jul 22 15:19:19 2011 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 17:19:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Special commemmorative car In-Reply-To: References: <1311364068.90694.YahooMailNeo@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I dunno, I would not throw away the new Allard if one was given to me :-) http://www.allardj2x.com/ David '59 TR3a '74 Spitsix -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 4:32 PM To: Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] Special commemmorative car John - I have a lot of respect for you, but I really don't see the point in reviving old marques, or making special one offs like these. the cars are old, pugnacious, and really have little to do with todays cars except for geneology. who would compare an xjs with an xk140? I really believe that the old cars are old; they are special, and trying to revive them makes no sense. I grant an exception for the mini, which really carried on the spirit of the old car, but I just don't see a "new" Triumph being at all relevant to the old one. even the new MGF IMHO had little to do with the old mgb I've got in the garage. the old cars and the old marques are gone. they are wonderful, historical, and I love mine. but don't revive an old marque and get all misty eyed about how great it is for it to be back. its not. its new, modern, and thank goodness for that. at some point you move forward. Datsun did it with the 240z - it has nothing to do with the old roadsters. but the 240, 260, 280, 350, 370 I think is a continuous chain. we've left the old British roadsters behind; they took a lot longer to die, but they are gone. -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Macartney" Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 2:47 PM To: "Triumph List" Subject: [TR] Special commemmorative car > I know this ought to appear on the MG list - but it makes one wonder > if the same might be done for Triumph, subject to BMW giving a green > light, which is doubtful. > > I see that the latest edition of Practical Classics in the UK has > announced that British Motor Heritage has joined forces with another > specialist to build just 50 MGBGT 'one-offs' to mark the thirty years > that has passed since the last MG left Abingdon. Using the original > body jigs, the cars will use a Mazda 2.0 litre engine and a six speed > manual box. Power output is indicated to be in excess of 210burps and > with a slight modification to the front suspenders. The announcement > in the August edition of Practical Classics didn't give *all* the > info, except for the fact that the price is likely to be in excess of > GBP50k - approx 80k US. > > It would be nice to see a TR6 getting a similar comemmorative > treatment but I guess the lederhosen clad mob in Munchen would veto > it. Perhaps the best that Triumph enthusiasts can hope for is a barely > rebodied version of that so-called 'mini' with some Triumph Globe > roundels slapped on the hubcaps? > > Jonmac > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sumton at sbcglobal.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt at opentext.com From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Fri Jul 22 15:30:15 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 22:30:15 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Special commemmorative car In-Reply-To: References: <1311364068.90694.YahooMailNeo@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1311370215.70985.YahooMailNeo@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Dave Thank you for your very kind but undeserved compliment and let me say at the outset that I couldn't agree with you more on this general theme! Frankly, I too don't see the point in this particular MG limited run project either - though the people that are doing it no doubt hope to make money at it. And also, I'd be the first to 'oppose' a similar move to resurrect a TR6 with anyone's engine or gearbox in it. That said, I'm sure there will always be people who will happily stump up the money to buy one of these MGBGT creations, just as much as there are those who pay even more for an AC Cobra lookalike and all the other ad nauseams. Equally, on the plus side of things, I'm delighted for the sake of the hobby that British Motor Heritage still has the capability to crank out new (and better) bodies for Spridgets, B's and TR6's on the original tooling. As the good surviving cars get higher and higher in price on both sides of the pond and start price themselves out of reach, all that is left for those who still aspire to an 'old car' are the basket cases where the body is all but gone and only the engine, gearbox and tranny are salvageable. That's where many of us are at in the UK, so buying a BMH replica body can and does bring an old rustbucket back to life, more or less "as it was." Sure, such an exercise costs a wad of money but some people have the financial wherewithal to do it and if it somehow rescues something that might soon morph into a washing machine, that has to be a plus. So in summary, I'm all for British Motor Heritage continuing with what they do well in enabling the cars we love to have a rebirth - but not with modern engines and all that goes with them. Needless to say, my first post was somewhat tongue-in-cheek. Cheers, John From: oliver To: Triumph List Sent: Friday, 22 July 2011, 21:32 Subject: Re: [TR] Special commemmorative car John - I have a lot of respect for you, but I really don't see the point in reviving old marques, or making special one offs like these. the cars are old, pugnacious, and really have little to do with todays cars except for geneology. who would compare an xjs with an xk140? I really believe that the old cars are old; they are special, and trying to revive them makes no sense. I grant an exception for the mini, which really carried on the spirit of the old car, but I just don't see a "new" Triumph being at all relevant to the old one. even the new MGF IMHO had little to do with the old mgb I've got in the garage. the old cars and the old marques are gone. they are wonderful, historical, and I love mine. but don't revive an old marque and get all misty eyed about how great it is for it to be back. its not. its new, modern, and thank goodness for that. at some point you move forward. Datsun did it with the 240z - it has nothing to do with the old roadsters. but the 240, 260, 280, 350, 370 I think is a continuous chain. we've left the old British roadsters behind; they took a lot longer to die, but they are gone. From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Jul 22 19:10:53 2011 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 21:10:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] PVGP RATCO has two frames there. Message-ID: <8CE16EC8083F763-1948-6DF6@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com> PITTSBURG VINTAGE GRAND PRIX this weekend. If you are going to be at PVGP, stop in RATCOs BOOTH and check out the brand new TR6 frames. Tony also has also has his new tube shock coversion kit for the TR4, there. We installed this kit for a race in June with great results. It is a conversion kit that will not tear your frame as it has lateral support with the mounts. Tony Vigliotti will also be a featured speaker at the VTR Convention at Breckenridge in August. Joe A From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Jul 22 20:54:19 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 21:54:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations References: <1460743101.38366.1311284614218.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > took AnnaBelle and I to breakfast this morning in the lovely Sierra > foothills town of San Andreas ... 75F nice roads, what more could you ask > ... Casper now sports a small decal from Hagerty on his windshield ... > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" .... Pretty much says it all > So, if the car had developed a problem, would it have been San Andreas' Fault? Mike From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Jul 22 20:56:25 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 21:56:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Special commemmorative car References: <1311364068.90694.YahooMailNeo@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <26B916DA93DF476694EAB97FE2FDB53A@trigeni.com> I always thought that the BGT was one of the best-looking fastback designs EVER. Mike > > I see that the latest edition of Practical Classics in the UK has > announced that British Motor Heritage has joined forces with another > specialist to build just 50 MGBGT 'one-offs' to mark the thirty years that > has > passed since the last MG left Abingdon. Using the original body jigs, the > cars > will use a Mazda 2.0 litre engine and a six speed manual box. Power output > is > indicated to be in excess of 210burps and with a slight modification to > the > front suspenders. The announcement in the August edition of Practical > Classics > didn't give *all* the info, except for the fact that the price is likely > to be > in excess of GBP50k - approx 80k US. From pryner at verizon.net Sat Jul 23 08:17:18 2011 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 10:17:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno Message-ID: <7CC7280E2D804A06A19EB21225939818@PetePC> I just received this from my Dodge list. Has anyone tried this product? Looks like a wonderful solution for LBC chrome parts! Pete Subject: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno > http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/spray-on-chrome/1232328/ > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jul 23 08:40:42 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 09:40:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A_=5BDiRT=5D_Spray_on_Chrome_paint_demo_by_Jay?= =?utf-8?q?_Leno?= Message-ID: <20110723144042.E3BE318766F@autox.team.net> I've seen it, and though not precisely like chrome in appearance, it is extremely near. Looks very good on engine and frame bits you want chromed and a heck of a lot cheaper! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Peter Ryner" To: "Triumph" , "MG LIST" , "Healey" Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno Date: Sat, Jul 23, 2011 09:17 I just received this from my Dodge list. Has anyone tried this product? Looks like a wonderful solution for LBC chrome parts! Pete Subject: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno > http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/spray-on-chrome/1232328/ > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sat Jul 23 08:49:56 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 09:49:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno In-Reply-To: <7CC7280E2D804A06A19EB21225939818@PetePC> References: <7CC7280E2D804A06A19EB21225939818@PetePC> Message-ID: That is *very* cool. Thanks for the link. Don Saint Louis MO TR3B TSF202L From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jul 23 09:00:24 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 08:00:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno In-Reply-To: <7CC7280E2D804A06A19EB21225939818@PetePC> References: <7CC7280E2D804A06A19EB21225939818@PetePC> Message-ID: They did a whole car using this process in an episode of "Street Customs". But they had to do it twice because of some difficulties with impurities in the water. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Ryner Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 7:17 AM To: Triumph; MG LIST; Healey Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno I just received this from my Dodge list. Has anyone tried this product? Looks like a wonderful solution for LBC chrome parts! Pete Subject: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno > http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/spray-on-chrome/1232328/ > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From trguy at cfl.rr.com Sat Jul 23 09:23:19 2011 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 11:23:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno In-Reply-To: <20110723144042.E3BE318766F@autox.team.net> References: <20110723144042.E3BE318766F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001301cc494c$74779d40$5d66d7c0$@rr.com> Very cool! Where do you get this done? I wonder if it would work well on a engine valve cover?? Jim Henningsen -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01 at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 10:41 AM To: Peter Ryner; Triumph; MG LIST; Healey Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno I've seen it, and though not precisely like chrome in appearance, it is extremely near. Looks very good on engine and frame bits you want chromed and a heck of a lot cheaper! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Peter Ryner" To: "Triumph" , "MG LIST" , "Healey" Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno Date: Sat, Jul 23, 2011 09:17 I just received this from my Dodge list. Has anyone tried this product? Looks like a wonderful solution for LBC chrome parts! Pete Subject: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno > http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/spray-on-chrome/1232328/ > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy at cfl.rr.com From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jul 23 10:41:32 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 11:41:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A_=5BDiRT=5D_Spray_on_Chrome_paint_demo_by_Jay?= =?utf-8?q?_Leno?= Message-ID: <20110723164141.49A5718766F@autox.team.net> It works on anything. Metal, plastic, paper. The place I saw was in Nashville, but I'm sure its country wide. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "James Henningsen" To: , "'Peter Ryner'" , "'Triumph'" , "'MG LIST'" , "'Healey'" Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno Date: Sat, Jul 23, 2011 10:23 Very cool! Where do you get this done? I wonder if it would work well on a engine valve cover?? Jim Henningsen -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01 at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 10:41 AM To: Peter Ryner; Triumph; MG LIST; Healey Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno I've seen it, and though not precisely like chrome in appearance, it is extremely near. Looks very good on engine and frame bits you want chromed and a heck of a lot cheaper! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Peter Ryner" To: "Triumph" , "MG LIST" , "Healey" Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno Date: Sat, Jul 23, 2011 09:17 I just received this from my Dodge list. Has anyone tried this product? Looks like a wonderful solution for LBC chrome parts! Pete Subject: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno > http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/spray-on-chrome/1232328/ > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy at cfl.rr.com From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sat Jul 23 11:14:49 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 12:14:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spray on chrome and McLaren Formula 1 cars? Message-ID: > Do you think the McLaren Formula 1 cars for the last few years have been using this system to create the unique chrome finish on the bodywork? Lewis Hamilton in his McLaren MP4-26 from Monaco this year: http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-D72LmG7/0/XL/i-D72LmG7-XL.jpg car details from the company itself: http://mclaren.com/mp4-26 > > > http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/**video/spray-on-chrome/1232328/ From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Jul 23 11:23:15 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 11:23:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno In-Reply-To: <7CC7280E2D804A06A19EB21225939818@PetePC> References: <7CC7280E2D804A06A19EB21225939818@PetePC> Message-ID: And where did you buy it? Seems to be unavailable, or at best hard to find, from reading comments on various websites. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jul 23, 2011, at 8:17 AM, Peter Ryner wrote: > Has anyone tried this product? From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jul 23 11:34:23 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 12:34:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A_=5BDiRT=5D_Spray_on_Chrome_paint_demo_by_Jay?= =?utf-8?q?_Leno?= Message-ID: <20110723173436.2BFB318766F@autox.team.net> I think the guy I saw said the company was selling franchises. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Bud Rolofson" To: "Peter Ryner" Cc: "Triumph" , "Healey" , "MG LIST" Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno Date: Sat, Jul 23, 2011 12:23 And where did you buy it? Seems to be unavailable, or at best hard to find, from reading comments on various websites. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jul 23, 2011, at 8:17 AM, Peter Ryner wrote: > Has anyone tried this product? triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jul 23 11:43:52 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 13:43:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno In-Reply-To: References: <7CC7280E2D804A06A19EB21225939818@PetePC> Message-ID: <038AB9338E3642BBB47C90745ED5B91A@BobPC> It's not a DIY system unless you've got about $2500 - $8K lying around........ http://www.sprayonchrome.com/equipment.html I think it's a great alternative to real chrome, especially for small pieces like gauge bezels, headlight trim rings....anything made of pot metal etc. Pretty heavily discussed here too http://tinyurl.com/44p9va6 Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 1:23 PM To: Peter Ryner Cc: Triumph ; Healey ; MG LIST Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno And where did you buy it? Seems to be unavailable, or at best hard to find, from reading comments on various websites. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jul 23, 2011, at 8:17 AM, Peter Ryner wrote: > Has anyone tried this product? triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Jul 23 17:08:19 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 19:08:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno In-Reply-To: <20110723164141.49A5718766F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4E2B1C23.4710.14A75465@localhost> On 23 Jul 2011 at 11:41, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > It works on anything. Metal, plastic, paper. > The place I saw was in Nashville, but I'm sure its country wide. Hmmm. I saw somewhere recently a comment from someone who'd tried a chrome paint, perhaps spray-on. I don't recall where, maybe in Bike Forums or maybe even in a Triumph-oriented comment. The author did NOT like the result. It looked okay but came/rubbed/wore off too easily. His conclusion was that it was rubbish. But I'm just reporting what I read somewhere on the Internet. You can believe everything you read on the Internet. At least that's what someone worte on the Internet. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Jul 23 17:11:01 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 19:11:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4E2B1CC5.3267.14A9CD45@localhost> On 22 Jul 2011 at 21:54, Michael Marr wrote: > So, if the car had developed a problem, would it have been > San Andreas' Fault? I really ought to say something about this not being an earth-shaking issue but it wouldn't be Triumph-related, now would it? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jul 23 17:17:40 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 18:17:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A_=5BDiRT=5D_Spray_on_Chrome_paint_demo_by_Jay?= =?utf-8?q?__Leno?= Message-ID: <20110723231746.0CE3918767C@autox.team.net> ;-) Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno Date: Sat, Jul 23, 2011 18:08 On 23 Jul 2011 at 11:41, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > It works on anything. Metal, plastic, paper. > The place I saw was in Nashville, but I'm sure its country wide. Hmmm. I saw somewhere recently a comment from someone who'd tried a chrome paint, perhaps spray-on. I don't recall where, maybe in Bike Forums or maybe even in a Triumph-oriented comment. The author did NOT like the result. It looked okay but came/rubbed/wore off too easily. His conclusion was that it was rubbish. But I'm just reporting what I read somewhere on the Internet. You can believe everything you read on the Internet. At least that's what someone worte on the Internet. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Jul 23 17:46:31 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:46:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Spray on chrome and McLaren Formula 1 cars? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1311464791.88540.YahooMailNeo@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> yes. sure looks like it. and it looks great on the McLaren Frank From: Don Hiscock To: Triumphs Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 10:14 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Spray on chrome and McLaren Formula 1 cars? > Do you think the McLaren Formula 1 cars for the last few years have been using this system to create the unique chrome finish on the bodywork? Lewis Hamilton in his McLaren MP4-26 from Monaco this year: http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-D72LmG7/0/XL/i-D72LmG7-XL.jpg car details from the company itself: http://mclaren.com/mp4-26 > > > http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/**video/spray-on-chrome/1232328/ triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From mark at bradakis.com Sat Jul 23 19:08:52 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 19:08:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: <4E2B1CC5.3267.14A9CD45@localhost> References: <4E2B1CC5.3267.14A9CD45@localhost> Message-ID: <4E2B70A4.2010409@bradakis.com> Jim Muller wrote: > On 22 Jul 2011 at 21:54, Michael Marr wrote: > >> So, if the car had developed a problem, would it have been >> San Andreas' Fault? > I really ought to say something about this not being an earth-shaking > issue but it wouldn't be Triumph-related, now would it? > As the list manager, I request you keep the conversation on this list well grounded. mjb. From mmarr at notwires.com Sat Jul 23 19:31:59 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 20:31:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations References: <4E2B1CC5.3267.14A9CD45@localhost> <4E2B70A4.2010409@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Wait a minute! There were at least 15 messages about chrome plate - you mean I can't make one measly comment about tectonic plates? Mike >> > As the list manager, I request you keep the conversation > on this list well grounded. > > mjb. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jul 23 19:29:29 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 20:29:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno In-Reply-To: <20110723231746.0CE3918767C@autox.team.net> References: <20110723231746.0CE3918767C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <17709ADA65D3403D92745B1520A7FAF2@ranteer.local> I have some front light surrounds (not on a triumph) that I spray painted in chrome. although they have never been out in the weather, after about 5 years they still look great. -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 6:17 PM To: ; Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno > ;-) > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Jim Muller" > To: > Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno > Date: Sat, Jul 23, 2011 18:08 > > > On 23 Jul 2011 at 11:41, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > >> It works on anything. Metal, plastic, paper. >> The place I saw was in Nashville, but I'm sure its country wide. > > Hmmm. I saw somewhere recently a comment from someone who'd tried a > chrome paint, perhaps spray-on. I don't recall where, maybe in Bike > Forums or maybe even in a Triumph-oriented comment. The author did > NOT like the result. It looked okay but came/rubbed/wore off too > easily. His conclusion was that it was rubbish. From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sat Jul 23 19:55:22 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 21:55:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations Message-ID: <1d69f.27cd146b.3b5cd589@aol.com> Mark - are you finding fault with this thread? Jack Mc In a message dated 7/23/2011 9:08:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, mark at bradakis.com writes: Jim Muller wrote: > On 22 Jul 2011 at 21:54, Michael Marr wrote: > >> So, if the car had developed a problem, would it have been >> San Andreas' Fault? > I really ought to say something about this not being an earth-shaking > issue but it wouldn't be Triumph-related, now would it? > As the list manager, I request you keep the conversation on this list well grounded. mjb. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jul 23 20:21:03 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 21:21:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Trials_and_Tribulations?= Message-ID: <20110724022103.5C3EE18767E@autox.team.net> Let's not get up in the air about this sort of thing! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Michael Marr" To: "Mark J Bradakis" , Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations Date: Sat, Jul 23, 2011 20:31 Wait a minute! There were at least 15 messages about chrome plate - you mean I can't make one measly comment about tectonic plates? Mike >> > As the list manager, I request you keep the conversation > on this list well grounded. > > mjb. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From guy at genfiniti.com Sat Jul 23 20:26:40 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 21:26:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Source for Seat Cover Clips Message-ID: All, Can anyone point me to a U.S. supplier of the clips that hold seat covers to the seat frame, as well as the clips that hold the seat back board to the frame? TRF and Moss appear to NOT carry the clips. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jul 23 20:59:00 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 22:59:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno In-Reply-To: <4E2B1C23.4710.14A75465@localhost> References: <4E2B1C23.4710.14A75465@localhost> Message-ID: <341FCA669212467C9743514B273DC1E4@BobPC> I hope we can't compare a $5 rattle can of "chrome" colored paint with a process that's applied with an $8K sprayer/mixer. As posted before... this is not a DIY home product. It's a franchise application ............ probably aimed at body shops. Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Jim Muller Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 7:08 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno On 23 Jul 2011 at 11:41, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > It works on anything. Metal, plastic, paper. > The place I saw was in Nashville, but I'm sure its country wide. Hmmm. I saw somewhere recently a comment from someone who'd tried a chrome paint, perhaps spray-on. I don't recall where, maybe in Bike Forums or maybe even in a Triumph-oriented comment. The author did NOT like the result. It looked okay but came/rubbed/wore off too easily. His conclusion was that it was rubbish. But I'm just reporting what I read somewhere on the Internet. You can believe everything you read on the Internet. At least that's what someone worte on the Internet. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 23 22:13:42 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:13:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations Message-ID: <12661.661dc89b.3b5cf5f6@cs.com> In a message dated 7/23/2011 8:37:12 PM Central Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > Wait a minute! There were at least 15 messages about chrome plate - you > mean I can't make one measly comment about tectonic plates? > I don't get your drift. But this discussion is uplifting. From npaul72464 at aol.com Sun Jul 24 05:44:23 2011 From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 07:44:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: <12661.661dc89b.3b5cf5f6@cs.com> References: <12661.661dc89b.3b5cf5f6@cs.com> Message-ID: <8CE180E2AD5F06B-68C-1CF0B@webmail-m168.sysops.aol.com> That's no fault of mine. -----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey To: triumphs Sent: Sun, Jul 24, 2011 12:19 am Subject: Re: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In a message dated 7/23/2011 8:37:12 PM Central Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > Wait a minute! There were at least 15 messages about chrome plate - you > mean I can't make one measly comment about tectonic plates? > I don't get your drift. But this discussion is uplifting. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/npaul72464 at aol.com From dwillner at ptd.net Sun Jul 24 05:45:43 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 07:45:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno References: <4E2B1C23.4710.14A75465@localhost> Message-ID: <2DC208FC0E0F41D6B2937335CED9B397@valued9cfc0b6f> I've had some parts refinished recently in a similar process for a fraction of the cost and anyone who has seen the parts is hard pressed to tell the difference. Its called Coatachrome (NFI), here's the link...very tough and durable...Might be a similar or the same process, he's been doing it for awhile though...www.coatofchrome.com Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 7:08 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: [DiRT] Spray on Chrome paint demo by Jay Leno > On 23 Jul 2011 at 11:41, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > >> It works on anything. Metal, plastic, paper. >> The place I saw was in Nashville, but I'm sure its country wide. > > Hmmm. I saw somewhere recently a comment from someone who'd tried a > chrome paint, perhaps spray-on. I don't recall where, maybe in Bike > Forums or maybe even in a Triumph-oriented comment. The author did > NOT like the result. It looked okay but came/rubbed/wore off too > easily. His conclusion was that it was rubbish. > > But I'm just reporting what I read somewhere on the Internet. You > can believe everything you read on the Internet. At least that's > what someone worte on the Internet. > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spook01 at comcast.net Sun Jul 24 06:30:03 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 07:30:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Trials_and_Tribulations?= Message-ID: <20110724123003.797A018764A@autox.team.net> I think you guys are slipping. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: npaul72464 at aol.com To: , Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations Date: Sun, Jul 24, 2011 06:44 That's no fault of mine. -----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey To: triumphs Sent: Sun, Jul 24, 2011 12:19 am Subject: Re: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In a message dated 7/23/2011 8:37:12 PM Central Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > Wait a minute! There were at least 15 messages about chrome plate - you > mean I can't make one measly comment about tectonic plates? > I don't get your drift. But this discussion is uplifting. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/npaul72464 at aol.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Jul 24 06:46:25 2011 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 06:46:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: References: <4E2B1CC5.3267.14A9CD45@localhost> <4E2B70A4.2010409@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4E2C1421.8030306@dfn.com> On 7/23/2011 7:31 PM, Michael Marr wrote: > Wait a minute! There were at least 15 messages about chrome plate - > you mean I can't make one measly comment about tectonic plates? > Tectonic plates? I get a set of Ginsu steak knives with those, don't I? Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From spook01 at comcast.net Sun Jul 24 07:03:39 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 08:03:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Trials_and_Tribulations?= Message-ID: <20110724130341.63BDA18764A@autox.team.net> Mike, Was in roswell last month. Half our old fleet is parked out there! R Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Michael Porter" To: "Michael Marr" Cc: Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations Date: Sun, Jul 24, 2011 07:46 On 7/23/2011 7:31 PM, Michael Marr wrote: > Wait a minute! There were at least 15 messages about chrome plate - > you mean I can't make one measly comment about tectonic plates? > Tectonic plates? I get a set of Ginsu steak knives with those, don't I? Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jul 24 08:04:19 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 10:04:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: <20110724130341.63BDA18764A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4E2BEE23.16043.17DB97E2@localhost> On 24 Jul 2011 at 8:03, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > Was in roswell last month. Half our old fleet is parked out there! Which fleet? "Why wasn't I told about this?" "Two words, Mr. President. 'Plausible deniability.'" Michael Marr, see what you started! How do I feel about it? Well, at this moment tensor. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Jul 24 10:05:08 2011 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 11:05:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: <4E2BEE23.16043.17DB97E2@localhost> References: <20110724130341.63BDA18764A@autox.team.net>, <4E2BEE23.16043.17DB97E2@localhost> Message-ID: I think this entire thread is a little shaky. Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Jul 24 10:41:35 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 09:41:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Source for Seat Cover Clips In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Is the back-board for a TR4A seat similar to the TR4? I couldn't find a US source for the clips along the top edge that grab as you push the seatback up -- made my own. Simple but helps if you have a good one to copy. Used metal from a picnic table cloth clip as I recall. For the ones down the sides of the backboard I used door panel clips -- not exactly the same but worked. Geo On Sat, Jul 23, 2011 at 7:26 PM, G.D. Huggins wrote: > All, > > Can anyone point me to a U.S. supplier of the clips that hold seat covers > to > the seat frame, as well as the clips that hold the seat back board to the > frame? From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Jul 24 11:09:01 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 10:09:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Not my Fault Message-ID: OK, I know I should not use the F word, but MacOS Lion is driving me nuts, I think whoever designed it must have worked for Triumph  (car content)  so I hope someone get this mail  darn don't even have emoticons  From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jul 24 11:14:54 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:14:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations Message-ID: <78a2f.7daf11a9.3b5dad0e@cs.com> In a message dated 7/24/2011 6:44:23 AM Central Daylight Time, npaul72464 at aol.com writes: > That's no fault of mine. > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dave1massey > To: triumphs > Sent: Sun, Jul 24, 2011 12:19 am > Subject: Re: [TR] Trials and Tribulations > > In a message dated 7/23/2011 8:37:12 PM Central Daylight Time, > mmarr at notwires.com writes: > > Wait a minute! There were at least 15 messages about chrome plate - you > > > mean I can't make one measly comment about tectonic plates? > > > I don't get your drift. But this discussion is uplifting. > > I dunno, I think you're on shakey ground. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jul 24 11:21:30 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:21:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations Message-ID: <78d28.1027c3d8.3b5dae9a@cs.com> In a message dated 7/24/2011 7:29:53 AM Central Daylight Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: > I think you guys are slipping. > What the heck. We're just a couple of quakers. From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jul 24 11:22:18 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:22:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations Message-ID: <78d7c.7c47a511.3b5daeca@cs.com> In a message dated 7/24/2011 7:49:02 AM Central Daylight Time, mdporter at dfn.com writes: > Tectonic plates? I get a set of Ginsu steak knives with those, don't I? > Naw, just a sepia print. Cheers Dave From dkspence at telus.net Sun Jul 24 11:29:37 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 11:29:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <147787F6-1909-4BE6-BC36-8C02BC5CD585@telus.net> I think you might be on shaky ground here Mike... On 24-Jul-11, at 5:45 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "Michael Marr" > Date: July 23, 2011 7:31:59 PM MDT (CA) > To: "Mark J Bradakis" , > Subject: Re: [TR] Trials and Tribulations > > > Wait a minute! There were at least 15 messages about chrome plate - > you mean I can't make one measly comment about tectonic plates? > > Mike > >>> >> As the list manager, I request you keep the conversation >> on this list well grounded. >> >> mjb. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Jul 24 11:49:07 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 10:49:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats Message-ID: <1311529747.72138.YahooMailNeo@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> During seat recovering I found that my passenger seat back (folds foward), seems slightly twisted or "racked" to the right. I tried to bend it back striaghter but could not change it a whole lot. Rather than work harder at it (and from past experience probably making it much worse) I decided to let it go and call it the "character" of the car.LOL Anyway, I just wondered if anyone else has the same problem or if it just got that way from use over the years. thanks! gary n. From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jul 24 12:07:22 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 12:07:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: <4E2C1421.8030306@dfn.com> References: <4E2B1CC5.3267.14A9CD45@localhost> <4E2B70A4.2010409@bradakis.com> <4E2C1421.8030306@dfn.com> Message-ID: <4E2C5F5A.7080007@bradakis.com> Michael Porter wrote: > > > Tectonic plates? I get a set of Ginsu steak knives with those, don't I? > > > You're pretty sharp! But Teutonic plates make your brats and kraut taste better. mjb. From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Sun Jul 24 14:23:44 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 21:23:44 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Not my Fault In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1311539024.40091.YahooMailNeo@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Well if it helps to bring you a bit nearer to reality, the Production Control computer system at Canley in the late 1960's and early 70's didn't bring up error messages *at all.* This is why on odd occasions - and certainly through operator* error, we saw: A Herald convertible with a LHD instrument panel and a RHD pedal layout A Toledo (which later became the Dolomite 1300 in 2 and 4 door versions) with two doors on the RH side and one on the LH side A 2000 saloon (which was rwd) that tried to get married to a Triumph 1300 fwd engine and tranny assembly. Interestingly,those respective cars were built on different assembly tracks and the arrival of the various items at 'premount' automatically stopped the tracks for almost a day while the computer people tried to sort the program error to enable a re-start. A Spitfire with disc wheels on the front, wires on the back and one of each in the boot. That particular car saw me being hit in the jaw by the owner because I couldn't believe my eyes and laughed at it. I believe there were others. Jonmac * The operator error was a whole different ballgame and the lady concerned who did the keyboarding for the punch card system always claimed these errors were only ever her fault because she was 'generously proportioned' up top and said she sometimes couldn't see the keyboard! She was a pretty girl too. From: William Pugh To: TR3/6 Sent: Sunday, 24 July 2011, 18:09 Subject: [TR] Not my Fault OK, I know I should not use the F word, but MacOS Lion is driving me nuts, I think whoever designed it must have worked for Triumph (car content) so I hope someone get this mail darn don't even have emoticons triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From sothornton at aol.com Sun Jul 24 14:32:17 2011 From: sothornton at aol.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 15:32:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Off Topic, but Miss America related! Message-ID: Hello TR List- Please excuse the off topic conversation, but my daughter, Ann-Blair, won the Miss Kentucky pageant last weekend. She will not compete in Vegas for Miss America in January! Many of you may have met her at The Summer Party over the last decade. She even entered her Land Rover in the car show one year- hope she does better at Miss America than her Land Rover did at TSP! Excuse the off topic post- here is her crowning video YouTube- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQT6MraNhJM&feature=player_embedded I'm just too proud not to share this,... Steven O. Thornton Attorney at Law 1011 Lehman Avenue Suite 102 Bowling Green, KY 42103 270-781-6630 Sent from my iPhone From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Sun Jul 24 14:36:49 2011 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 15:36:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Off Topic, but Miss America related! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0C2E004F-F35E-4302-A295-F077516870AF@stevethorntonlaw.com> Sorry- poor editing. Should have read "now compete in Miss America in January." I wrote "not compete in Miss America in January." Big difference,.. Steven O. Thornton Attorney at Law 1011 Lehman Avenue Suite 102 Bowling Green, KY 42103 270-781-6630 Sent from my iPhone On Jul 24, 2011, at 3:36 PM, "Steve Thornton" wrote: > Hello TR List- > > > Please excuse the off topic conversation, but my daughter, Ann-Blair, won the > Miss Kentucky pageant last weekend. She will not compete in Vegas for Miss > America in January! > > Many of you may have met her at The Summer Party over the last decade. She > even entered her Land Rover in the car show one year- hope she does better at > Miss America than her Land Rover did at TSP! > > Excuse the off topic post- here is her crowning video YouTube- > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQT6MraNhJM&feature=player_embedded > > I'm just too proud not to share this,... > > Steven O. Thornton > Attorney at Law > 1011 Lehman Avenue > Suite 102 > Bowling Green, KY 42103 > > 270-781-6630 > > Sent from my iPhone > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.co m From eoot at citlink.net Sun Jul 24 15:51:48 2011 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 17:51:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Off Topic, but Miss America related! References: Message-ID: <01BCEA21863843C4938735F5BFDF3B90@WANDERER> WOW! Congratulations!!! Your pride is well placed. She is a beautiful young women and obviously deserving. Best of luck to Ann-Blair in Vegas. We'll be watching and rooting for her. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Thornton" To: "TR List" Cc: "John Swauger" Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2011 4:32 PM Subject: [TR] Off Topic, but Miss America related! > Hello TR List- > > > Please excuse the off topic conversation, but my daughter, Ann-Blair, won > the > Miss Kentucky pageant last weekend. She will not compete in Vegas for Miss > America in January! > > Many of you may have met her at The Summer Party over the last decade. She > even entered her Land Rover in the car show one year- hope she does better > at > Miss America than her Land Rover did at TSP! > > Excuse the off topic post- here is her crowning video YouTube- > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQT6MraNhJM&feature=player_embedded > > I'm just too proud not to share this,... > > Steven O. Thornton > Attorney at Law > 1011 Lehman Avenue > Suite 102 > Bowling Green, KY 42103 > > 270-781-6630 > > Sent from my iPhone > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net > > > > > ======= > Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. > (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16580) > http://www.pctools.com/ > ======= ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16580) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Sun Jul 24 16:14:58 2011 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 15:14:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car Message-ID: I will pick up a freshly painted body on a rolling chassis next week and have to haul it on an open trailer 600 miles. I would like to cover the car to avoid gravel impacts or other damage during the drive. Any suggestions? I donbt have a snug-fitting car cover. An acquaintance suggested buying a roll of 6mil plastic and wrapping the car with that, secured by duct tape on the plastic. Thanks for any help, Cliff b66 TR4A sporting Royal Blue b not original for this car but dang does it look sharp From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Jul 24 17:01:18 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 19:01:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car Message-ID: <27339.1841a208.3b5dfe3e@aol.com> Cliff I think the risk of damage while uncovered on an open trailer is far less than the risk of damage from a wind-blown cover or plastic wrap and duct tape rubbing the paint. Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 7/24/2011 6:14:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, cliff_hansen at earthlink.net writes: I will pick up a freshly painted body on a rolling chassis next week and have to haul it on an open trailer 600 miles. I would like to cover the car to avoid gravel impacts or other damage during the drive. Any suggestions? I donbt have a snug-fitting car cover. An acquaintance suggested buying a roll of 6mil plastic and wrapping the car with that, secured by duct tape on the plastic. Thanks for any help, Cliff b66 TR4A sporting Royal Blue b not original for this car but dang does it look sharp triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Jul 24 17:15:14 2011 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 23:15:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] Brake diagnosis technique. Message-ID: I have been working on the brakes for my T-bird and Raybestos tech gave me a good diagnostic technique for air in the lines. If you have bled your brakes and the pedal still pumps up you can find the circuit with air in it this way. First be sure the master cylinder is full. Then at all the brakes wrap the flex line in protective rubber (old inner tube) and clamp the lines off with vice grips. Then test the pedal, it should be high and hard, if not the master cylinder is where your problem begins. If the brake pedal is high and hard the master cylinder is OK. Then start at any brake position position you want to and release one of the vice grips. Test the brake pedal again. If the pedal is high and hard the circuit tested is not the problem. Replace the vice grip and test the remaining circuits one at a time, always reclamping the lines after testing, until you find the circuit that lets the brake pedal go soft. That is the circuit with the air in it. Best regards, Tom From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Jul 24 17:15:12 2011 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 17:15:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: <27339.1841a208.3b5dfe3e@aol.com> References: <27339.1841a208.3b5dfe3e@aol.com> Message-ID: <4E2CA780.1040406@dfn.com> On 7/24/2011 5:01 PM, McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote: > Cliff > > I think the risk of damage while uncovered on an open trailer is far less > than the risk of damage from a wind-blown cover or plastic wrap and duct > tape rubbing the paint. > > What about using body shop masking paper and tape as an underlayment, and plastic wrap on top of that? A bit more work, but takes care of the possible abrasion from wind whipping the plastic. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jul 24 17:18:24 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 19:18:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Any wind blown dirt/sand getting between the cover and the car = sandpaper. Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Cliff Hansen Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2011 6:14 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car I will pick up a freshly painted body on a rolling chassis next week and have to haul it on an open trailer 600 miles. I would like to cover the car to avoid gravel impacts or other damage during the drive. Any suggestions? I donbt have a snug-fitting car cover. An acquaintance suggested buying a roll of 6mil plastic and wrapping the car with that, secured by duct tape on the plastic. Thanks for any help, Cliff b66 TR4A sporting Royal Blue b not original for this car but dang does it look sharp triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From spook01 at comcast.net Sun Jul 24 18:06:06 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 19:06:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Covering_a_newly_painted_car?= Message-ID: <20110725000608.2018818767D@autox.team.net> Umm....did that many years ago. Covers while towing takes off the paint.. Just give it up. Either rent a closed trailer or take the slow back roads. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "Cliff Hansen" , "list Triumph" Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car Date: Sun, Jul 24, 2011 18:18 Any wind blown dirt/sand getting between the cover and the car = sandpaper. Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Cliff Hansen Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2011 6:14 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car I will pick up a freshly painted body on a rolling chassis next week and have to haul it on an open trailer 600 miles. I would like to cover the car to avoid gravel impacts or other damage during the drive. Any suggestions? I donbt have a snug-fitting car cover. An acquaintance suggested buying a roll of 6mil plastic and wrapping the car with that, secured by duct tape on the plastic. Thanks for any help, Cliff b66 TR4A sporting Royal Blue b not original for this car but dang does it look sharp triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Jul 24 18:10:30 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 17:10:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 7/24/11, Cliff Hansen wrote: > I will pick up a freshly painted body on a rolling chassis next week and > have to haul it on an open trailer 600 miles. Perhaps a shield could be constructed that would offer some protection from stones, etc (the biggest villain may be the rear wheels of the tow vehicle). I have seen many towed cars at show where the trailer had such a shield. I can't imagine anything touching the paint (esp new paint) being a good idea. Geo From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jul 24 18:32:46 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 18:32:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E2CB9AE.6040305@bradakis.com> I wouldn't put anything in contact with the paint. How about using plastic and PVC pipes to build a temporary enclosure? Of course, if the structure can't handle the wind load and collapses en route... mjb. From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Jul 24 19:50:58 2011 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 20:50:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Off Topic, but Miss America related! In-Reply-To: <01BCEA21863843C4938735F5BFDF3B90@WANDERER> References: , <01BCEA21863843C4938735F5BFDF3B90@WANDERER> Message-ID: +1 Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: eoot at citlink.net > To: sothornton at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 17:51:48 -0400 > CC: jswauger at comcast.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Off Topic, but Miss America related! > > WOW! Congratulations!!! Your pride is well placed. She is a beautiful > young women and obviously deserving. Best of luck to Ann-Blair in Vegas. > We'll be watching and rooting for her. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Steve Thornton" > To: "TR List" > Cc: "John Swauger" > Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2011 4:32 PM > Subject: [TR] Off Topic, but Miss America related! > > > > Hello TR List- > > > > > > Please excuse the off topic conversation, but my daughter, Ann-Blair, won > > the > > Miss Kentucky pageant last weekend. She will not compete in Vegas for Miss > > America in January! > > > > Many of you may have met her at The Summer Party over the last decade. She > > even entered her Land Rover in the car show one year- hope she does better > > at > > Miss America than her Land Rover did at TSP! > > > > Excuse the off topic post- here is her crowning video YouTube- > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQT6MraNhJM&feature=player_embedded > > > > I'm just too proud not to share this,... > > > > Steven O. Thornton > > Attorney at Law > > 1011 Lehman Avenue > > Suite 102 > > Bowling Green, KY 42103 > > > > 270-781-6630 > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net > > > > > > > > > > ======= > > Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. > > (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16580) > > http://www.pctools.com/ > > ======= > > > > > > ======= > Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. > (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16580) > http://www.pctools.com/ > ======= > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Sun Jul 24 20:21:33 2011 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 19:21:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks to all who replied. Unanimous to put no cover on the car. I'm going to get bids on having the car shipped. If that can't be arranged, I'll build a rock barrier at the front of the trailer and hope for the best. My truck has mudflaps and I'll just keep my distance from other vehicles, best I can. An enclosed trailer is not an option, as I have one tow vehicle and own the flatbed trailer, and we're moving from Nevada to New Mexico. Thanks again. Cliff -----Original Message----- From: Cliff Hansen Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2011 3:14 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car I will pick up a freshly painted body on a rolling chassis next week and have to haul it on an open trailer 600 miles. I would like to cover the car to avoid gravel impacts or other damage during the drive. Any suggestions? I donbt have a snug-fitting car cover. An acquaintance suggested buying a roll of 6mil plastic and wrapping the car with that, secured by duct tape on the plastic. Thanks for any help, Cliff b66 TR4A sporting Royal Blue b not original for this car but dang does it look sharp triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From spitlist at cox.net Sun Jul 24 20:29:27 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 19:29:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A7B010D9F80413288E2422E57794AD8@Vista> The only thing I can think of that will do what you want is that shrink wrap stuff that they put on new cars and boats for transport. I have no idea where you can get your hands on that stuff. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cliff Hansen Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2011 7:22 PM To: list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] Covering a newly painted car Thanks to all who replied. Unanimous to put no cover on the car. I'm going to get bids on having the car shipped. If that can't be arranged, I'll build a rock barrier at the front of the trailer and hope for the best. My truck has mudflaps and I'll just keep my distance from other vehicles, best I can. An enclosed trailer is not an option, as I have one tow vehicle and own the flatbed trailer, and we're moving from Nevada to New Mexico. Thanks again. Cliff -----Original Message----- From: Cliff Hansen Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2011 3:14 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car I will pick up a freshly painted body on a rolling chassis next week and have to haul it on an open trailer 600 miles. I would like to cover the car to avoid gravel impacts or other damage during the drive. Any suggestions? I donbt have a snug-fitting car cover. An acquaintance suggested buying a roll of 6mil plastic and wrapping the car with that, secured by duct tape on the plastic. Thanks for any help, Cliff b66 TR4A sporting Royal Blue b not original for this car but dang does it look sharp triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From triumphs at consolidated.net Mon Jul 25 06:18:50 2011 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 07:18:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Off Topic, but Miss America related! References: Message-ID: <4FC19D18FFE64F67A9A628136CDFE2E7@SONYATHOME> Congratulations. I'll bet you are a proud Dad. Ken Gano ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Thornton" To: "TR List" Cc: "John Swauger" Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2011 3:32 PM Subject: [TR] Off Topic, but Miss America related! > Hello TR List- > > > Please excuse the off topic conversation, but my daughter, Ann-Blair, won > the > Miss Kentucky pageant last weekend. She will not compete in Vegas for Miss > America in January! > > Many of you may have met her at The Summer Party over the last decade. She > even entered her Land Rover in the car show one year- hope she does better > at > Miss America than her Land Rover did at TSP! > > Excuse the off topic post- here is her crowning video YouTube- > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQT6MraNhJM&feature=player_embedded > > I'm just too proud not to share this,... > > Steven O. Thornton > Attorney at Law > 1011 Lehman Avenue > Suite 102 > Bowling Green, KY 42103 > > 270-781-6630 > > Sent from my iPhone > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1518/3785 - Release Date: 07/24/11 From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Jul 25 07:09:43 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 06:09:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E2D6B17.3090504@gmail.com> On 7/24/11 7:21 PM, Cliff Hansen wrote: > > An enclosed trailer is not an option, as I have one tow vehicle and > own the flatbed trailer, and we're moving from Nevada to New Mexico. When I moved from California to Flagstaff, after loading my TR3 on the trailer I put its car cover on then wrapped the car cover & car in plastic. The soft car cover was on the body and the wrap never touched the body except for the underside. It seemed to work OK. The paint was not new but I was concerned about flying debris and night time visitors. No one tried to unwrap the car to see what was underneath and nothing got through the wrap. It takes 2 people & lots of wrap to cocoon a TR. If your paint is at least a week old you should be fine. Teriann From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 25 10:36:37 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 09:36:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake diagnosis technique. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <063a01cc4ae9$06ccc420$14664c60$@rr.com> > and clamp the lines off with vice grips. Does this seem like a really bad idea to anyone else besides me? Especially if you use lines with a Teflon core. -- Randall From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Jul 25 11:45:11 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 10:45:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Looking for: Message-ID: <1311615911.21098.YahooMailNeo@web39423.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! Sorry to disrupt the subject threads, But would: 1- Chris Simo 2- Dave Massey PLEASE E-mail me off line? TIA -Cosmo Kramer From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jul 25 11:45:47 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 13:45:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Brake diagnosis technique. Message-ID: <1a2e8.6037cb22.3b5f05cb@cs.com> In a message dated 7/25/2011 11:37:29 AM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Does this seem like a really bad idea to anyone else besides me? > Especially > if you use lines with a Teflon core. > I agree. You could probably get away with it if you have fresh rubber hoses but the Goodrich lines would just crush. Dave From mdporter at dfn.com Mon Jul 25 11:55:15 2011 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 11:55:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brake diagnosis technique. In-Reply-To: <1a2e8.6037cb22.3b5f05cb@cs.com> References: <1a2e8.6037cb22.3b5f05cb@cs.com> Message-ID: <4E2DAE03.2070001@dfn.com> On 7/25/2011 11:45 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > I agree. You could probably get away with it if you have fresh rubber > hoses but the Goodrich lines would just crush. Actually, it's not very good for rubber hoses, either. Those items are essentially a lamination of layers of rubber and fabric, and pinching them flat causes delamination, which results in loss of strength and earlier failure. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jul 25 11:57:51 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 13:57:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Brake diagnosis technique. Message-ID: <1acd8.2d643fbd.3b5f089e@cs.com> In a message dated 7/25/2011 12:55:17 PM Central Daylight Time, mdporter at dfn.com writes: > Actually, it's not very good for rubber hoses, either. Those items are > essentially a lamination of layers of rubber and fabric, and pinching > them flat causes delamination, which results in loss of strength and > earlier failure. > Which is why I said "get away with." If you're running a repair shop and wanted to turn the car quickly this will help. Long term effects be hanged. Er... is that "hung?" Cheers Dave From FPrecht at frostburg.edu Mon Jul 25 12:04:05 2011 From: FPrecht at frostburg.edu (Francis Precht) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 18:04:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] Bleeding Brakes, TR4A Message-ID: I have an issue that I don't remember ever having before. I had a leaky rear brake cylinder that I replaced on my TR4A along with new shoes. While I was at it (oh no) I saw that the rubber hoses on the rear brakes seemed like they were starting to crack, so I also replaced those. I then proceeded to bleed the entire system using DOT 5 silicone which has been in there since I acquired the car 6 years ago. I bled all 4 wheels, RR, RL, FR, FL and had a nice hard pedal. I started the car to go for a drive and the pedal went to the floor. Hmmmmm.....bubbles in the fluid I thought. I let the car sit for a week, rebled all 4 wheels to a hard pedal.....start the car.....same thing. I've now done this 3 times. I DO NOT have any brake assist/booster on the system. The easy fix is to bleed the brakes with the car running but that doesn't seem right. What am I doing wrong ??? Many thanks for any insight. Bud Precht From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Jul 25 12:08:47 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 13:08:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake diagnosis technique. In-Reply-To: <063a01cc4ae9$06ccc420$14664c60$@rr.com> References: <063a01cc4ae9$06ccc420$14664c60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <6FC4F047E80B4976BF4D95A81D1A5F77@ranteer.local> squeeze the brake lines???????? not my car, please I like the concept; maybe we could find a blank to screw the lines into. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Randall" Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 11:36 AM To: Subject: Re: [TR] Brake diagnosis technique. >> and clamp the lines off with vice grips. > > Does this seem like a really bad idea to anyone else besides me? > Especially > if you use lines with a Teflon core. > > -- Randall From anncarletta at yahoo.com Mon Jul 25 13:31:14 2011 From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 12:31:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] do I paint the radiator duct fiberboard? Message-ID: <1311622274.79042.YahooMailClassic@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hi guys. I have a 1959 TR3A that is red. The rats found my fiberboard this winter, so I ordered a new one. Am I supposed to paint it before it's installed? I don't want any critters eating the new fiberboard. Also, do I try to match the color of the exterior and is there a type of paint that needs to be used for something that will be next to a radiator? Ann 1959 TR3A From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jul 25 13:45:51 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 13:45:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] do I paint the radiator duct fiberboard? In-Reply-To: <1311622274.79042.YahooMailClassic@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1311622274.79042.YahooMailClassic@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I use paint intended for bumpers. Its flexible and takes the heat well. I use black for my 6. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jul 25, 2011, at 1:31 PM, Ann Carletta wrote: > Hi guys. I have a 1959 TR3A that is red. The rats found my > fiberboard this > winter, so I ordered a new one. Am I supposed to paint it before it's > installed? I don't want any critters eating the new fiberboard. > Also, do I > try to match the color of the exterior and is there a type of paint > that needs > to be used for something that will be next to a radiator? > > Ann > 1959 TR3A > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jul 25 13:46:23 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 13:46:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] do I paint the radiator duct fiberboard? In-Reply-To: <1311622274.79042.YahooMailClassic@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1311622274.79042.YahooMailClassic@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <145F5563-DBB1-48B9-AC07-E5E86DB9DB4C@comcast.net> I use paint intended for bumpers. Its flexible and takes the heat well. I use black for my 6. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jul 25, 2011, at 1:31 PM, Ann Carletta wrote: > Hi guys. I have a 1959 TR3A that is red. The rats found my > fiberboard this > winter, so I ordered a new one. Am I supposed to paint it before it's > installed? I don't want any critters eating the new fiberboard. > Also, do I > try to match the color of the exterior and is there a type of paint > that needs > to be used for something that will be next to a radiator? > > Ann > 1959 TR3A > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jul 25 17:23:55 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 23:23:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] do I paint the radiator duct fiberboard? In-Reply-To: <1311622274.79042.YahooMailClassic@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1229542738.197326.1311636235439.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >The rats found my fiberboard this >winter, so I ordered a new one. Am I supposed to paint it before it's >installed? Hi, Ann. A lot depends on how much you drive your car. If you just tow it to meets and drive it on beautiful days (totally cool), you might get away with original or painted (black, I think, to match the shadow behind your grill.) On the other hand, my '59 TR3 is a daily driver. My experience was painting the cardboard with rubberized undercoating. Still it disintegrated after about four years. Yes, I got caught in downpours a few times. I would suggest a different paint than the rubberized coating, at least. Maybe a primed Rustoleum, something like that. Still, I think the common experience is that even the originals fell apart in very little time. What I did second time around was order the new fiberboard, then used it as a template to fabricate a replacement using an vinyl shower surround found at a garage sale. Painted it black and it's impervioius to water ...or rats.... Then again, I drive mine an hour and a half every day at speeds I dare not confess.... Have fun! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Jul 25 17:29:53 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:29:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] do I paint the radiator duct fiberboard? In-Reply-To: <1311622274.79042.YahooMailClassic@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1311622274.79042.YahooMailClassic@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E2DFC71.200@gmail.com> On 7/25/11 12:31 PM, Ann Carletta wrote: > Hi guys. I have a 1959 TR3A that is red. The rats found my fiberboard this > winter, so I ordered a new one. Am I supposed to paint it before it's > installed? Hi Ann, I believe the fiberboard was not intended to be painted. It just stays black. That's what I did with my red TR3A. I also think the folks who reproduce the shroud in flexible plastic painted black are well ahead of the game. TeriAnn From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Jul 25 17:36:25 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 18:36:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] do I paint the radiator duct fiberboard? In-Reply-To: <1229542738.197326.1311636235439.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1229542738.197326.1311636235439.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: for tr6's you can get stainless surrounds. not sure if they make them for a 3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 25 17:46:51 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:46:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] do I paint the radiator duct fiberboard? In-Reply-To: <4E2DFC71.200@gmail.com> References: <1311622274.79042.YahooMailClassic@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4E2DFC71.200@gmail.com> Message-ID: <069601cc4b25$251889a0$6f499ce0$@rr.com> > Hi Ann, I believe the fiberboard was not intended to be painted. It > just stays black. That's what I did with my red TR3A. While that's what I did (and believed) too; it was recently pointed out that the SPC lists the deflector in a variety of colors: Black, Signal Red, Pale Yellow, Pearl White, etc. (Part numbers 803440 through 803448, page 85 in my copy.) So it appears that the factory at least initially supplied them painted body color. -- Randall From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Mon Jul 25 17:50:22 2011 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 19:50:22 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6/Sitfire Bonnet Message-ID: All, My GT6 bonnet is starting to show signs of buckling on the driver's side from, I'm sure, years of opening and closing. It is a '72 MKIII. Does anyone have a solution for this problem besides to quit opening it? Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs Tulsa, OK From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Mon Jul 25 18:34:10 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:34:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car References: <4E2D6B17.3090504@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9E770C322A694619B1ED00919A8F444F@userb38463fba5> Bad advise ----- Original Message ----- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" To: "Cliff Hansen" ; "Triumph List" Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 9:09 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Covering a newly painted car > On 7/24/11 7:21 PM, Cliff Hansen wrote: >> >> An enclosed trailer is not an option, as I have one tow vehicle and own >> the flatbed trailer, and we're moving from Nevada to New Mexico. > When I moved from California to Flagstaff, after loading my TR3 on the > trailer I put its car cover on then wrapped the car cover & car in > plastic. The soft car cover was on the body and the wrap never touched > the body except for the underside. It seemed to work OK. The paint was > not new but I was concerned about flying debris and night time visitors. > No one tried to unwrap the car to see what was underneath and nothing got > through the wrap. It takes 2 people & lots of wrap to cocoon a TR. > > If your paint is at least a week old you should be fine. > > Teriann > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From rjones at wfeca.net Mon Jul 25 18:55:15 2011 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:55:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 engines In-Reply-To: <1229542738.197326.1311636235439.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1229542738.197326.1311636235439.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: My 1961 Morgan Plus 4 has a TR3 engine. The engine number is 8197. Does anyone know which gear reduction starter it takes, the early TR3 one or the later one? Thanks From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Mon Jul 25 19:31:54 2011 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 18:31:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] GT6/Sitfire Bonnet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1311643914.27051.YahooMailNeo@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Open it from the passenger side, or get Carol to open it with you. Chad in Broken Arrow Your WALLET: The ONLY place Obama is willing to DRILL! From: "TRDOCTOR at aol.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 6:50 PM Subject: [TR] GT6/Sitfire Bonnet All, My GT6 bonnet is starting to show signs of buckling on the driver's side from, I'm sure, years of opening and closing. It is a '72 MKIII. Does anyone have a solution for this problem besides to quit opening it? Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs Tulsa, OK triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From rjones at wfeca.net Mon Jul 25 19:49:40 2011 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 21:49:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 engines In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <52CCBCA8-B028-4D87-B637-D955205306C0@wfeca.net> OK, everybody. I mistyped the engine number for my TR3 engined Morgan. It is TS89157. Now, is it early or late? Sorry for the misdirection. From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Mon Jul 25 20:02:16 2011 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 22:02:16 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6/Sitfire Bonnet Message-ID: Thanks for advice. That's what I have been doing lately. In the future please your political views to yourself and I will keep my views to myself. Thanks Sam In a message dated 7/25/2011 8:32:08 P.M. Central Daylight Time, triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com writes: Open it from the passenger side, or get Carol to open it with you. Chad in Broken Arrow Your WALLET: The ONLY place Obama is willing to DRILL! From: "TRDOCTOR at aol.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 6:50 PM Subject: [TR] GT6/Sitfire Bonnet All, My GT6 bonnet is starting to show signs of buckling on the driver's side from, I'm sure, years of opening and closing. It is a '72 MKIII. Does anyone have a solution for this problem besides to quit opening it? Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs Tulsa, OK _triumphs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) Donate: _http://www.team.net/donate.html_ (http://www.team.net/donate.html) Archive: _http://www.team.net/archive_ (http://www.team.net/archive) Forums: _http://www.team.net/forums_ (http://www.team.net/forums) Unsubscribe/Manage: _http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com_ (http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com) From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Jul 25 20:26:40 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 19:26:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bleeding Brakes, TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: One possibility is a master cylinder problem. But why now? -- When I bleed the brakes I put a 2x4 on the floorboard beneath the pedal so the pedal doesn't go all the way to the floor and the piston seal in the MC doesn't go into a section of the MC where it hasnever been before. Maybe it's superstition but the idea that getting into that area of the MC can mess up the seal. Geo On 7/25/11, Francis Precht wrote: > I have an issue that I don't remember ever having before. I had a leaky > rear > brake cylinder that I replaced on my TR4A along with new shoes. While I was > at it (oh no) I saw that the rubber hoses on the rear brakes seemed like > they > were starting to crack, so I also replaced those. I then proceeded to bleed > the entire system using DOT 5 silicone which has been in there since I > acquired the car 6 years ago. > > I bled all 4 wheels, RR, RL, FR, FL and had a nice hard pedal. I started > the > car to go for a drive and the pedal went to the floor. Hmmmmm.....bubbles > in > the fluid I thought. I let the car sit for a week, rebled all 4 wheels to a > hard pedal.....start the car.....same thing. I've now done this 3 times. > > I DO NOT have any brake assist/booster on the system. The easy fix is to > bleed the brakes with the car running but that doesn't seem right. What am > I > doing wrong ??? > > Many thanks for any insight. > Bud Precht > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Jul 25 20:41:53 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 19:41:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] do I paint the radiator duct fiberboard? In-Reply-To: <069601cc4b25$251889a0$6f499ce0$@rr.com> References: <1311622274.79042.YahooMailClassic@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4E2DFC71.200@gmail.com> <069601cc4b25$251889a0$6f499ce0$@rr.com> Message-ID: It's my understanding is that they are to be body color. I painted mine (was light brown but apparently some are now supplied in black) using Krylon paint for a reasonable match to Signal Red. In the 20 years or so since, I've driven in more than a few rain storms and even managed to submerge the front end once (that was a memorable ride) but it has held up fine. Geo From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Mon Jul 25 20:48:12 2011 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 19:48:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] GT6/Sitfire Bonnet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1311648492.92847.YahooMailNeo@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Yep....sorry.....missed deleting my .sig line. It's gone now. Anyhow, I do not know of any other solution to your bonnet problems. I always thought it would be neat to engineer a bonnet lifting solution with gas charged cylinders like the back doors on SUV's. Chad in Tulsa From: "TRDOCTOR at aol.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 9:02 PM Subject: Re: [TR] GT6/Sitfire Bonnet Thanks for advice. That's what I have been doing lately. In the future please your political views to yourself and I will keep my views to myself. Thanks Sam In a message dated 7/25/2011 8:32:08 P.M. Central Daylight Time, triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com writes: Open it from the passenger side, or get Carol to open it with you. Chad in Broken Arrow From: "TRDOCTOR at aol.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 6:50 PM Subject: [TR] GT6/Sitfire Bonnet All, My GT6 bonnet is starting to show signs of buckling on the driver's side from, I'm sure, years of opening and closing. It is a '72 MKIII. Does anyone have a solution for this problem besides to quit opening it? Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs Tulsa, OK _ From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Mon Jul 25 20:55:26 2011 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 19:55:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 engines In-Reply-To: <52CCBCA8-B028-4D87-B637-D955205306C0@wfeca.net> References: <52CCBCA8-B028-4D87-B637-D955205306C0@wfeca.net> Message-ID: <4E2E2C9E.9060504@comcast.net> Still don't know, but you can figure out which starter you need fairly easily. If you have the original starter removed, check the business end - if it has a shroud, like a nose cone with a cutout where you can see the starter gear gear, then it is an early starter. If there is just an exposed shaft the the gear rides on, it is a late starter. If you can see the flywheel, or feel it, check for the direction of the bevel on the teeth of the ring gear. If the bevel faces the front of the car, towards the engine, it needs an early starter. If the bevel is on the rear edge, then you need a late starter. Also, check to see how the ring gear is attached to the flywheel, if it is a friction fit, then it is an early starter, if it is bolted on, then it's a late version. Hope that's clear - and helpful, Bob On 7/25/2011 6:49 PM, Robert Jones wrote: > OK, everybody. I mistyped the engine number for my TR3 engined Morgan. It is > TS89157. Now, is it early or late? > > Sorry for the misdirection. > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net From cartr4a at ameritech.net Mon Jul 25 21:18:07 2011 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:18:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] GT6/Sitfire Bonnet In-Reply-To: <1311648492.92847.YahooMailNeo@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1311650287.55353.YahooMailClassic@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> This might be of interest to you... http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/gasstruts/index.html Jim From: "TRDOCTOR at aol.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 6:50 PM Subject: [TR] GT6/Sitfire Bonnet All, My GT6 bonnet is starting to show signs of buckling on the driver's side from, I'm sure, years of opening and closing. It is a '72 MKIII. Does anyone have a solution for this problem besides to quit opening it? Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs Tulsa, OK _ From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jul 25 21:34:02 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:34:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 engines In-Reply-To: References: <1229542738.197326.1311636235439.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <027401cc4b44$dd859400$0301a8c0@randall> > My 1961 Morgan Plus 4 has a TR3 engine. The engine number is > 8197. Does > anyone know which gear reduction starter it takes, the early > TR3 one or the > later one? How many times has the flywheel been changed ? By 61, it almost certainly had the late starter originally; but it's not at all unusual to find that someone converted at some point; intentionally or not. Back in the 70's, everyone _knew_ "They're all the same". So, as Bob wrote, I would insist on checking which flywheel is installed. BTW, the gear-drive starters are the same except for the gear; and changing the gear is not that difficult. So if you do get the wrong one, you may be able to buy the gear and swap it over. -- Randall From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Jul 25 21:49:48 2011 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 23:49:48 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 engines Message-ID: <14065.602495cd.3b5f935c@aol.com> Yeah, Like Wot Randall Said. However, I would emphasise Randall's point by saying that, unless your engine was built in about 1958 and hung around before going to the Morgan factory, it's almost certainly the later type you need. To endorse Randall's comment on the gear: I had to change the gear on my gear-reduction starter because I have an early car (bomb starter) but I found that it had been fitted with a late-type ring gear, and I didn't know this until I had the gear reduction starter (with the gear for an early car) in my hand and the bomb starter out. This meant there was no hope for an original type starter to work for very long, unless I changed the ring gear or fitted a late-type gear to the gear reduction starter motor. I did the latter; it was easy and I can say you will not regret changing to one of these starters. In your position, and if I did not want to disassemble before ordering the starter, I'd order the late one, then change the gear in the unlikely event it doesn't fit. For the very few extra $, you could even order the earlier gear as well, just in case it's an early engine. Sorry we can't be more specific but the changeover went by VIN and not engine number, so neither your engine number, nor your Morgan's VIN, gives us the info we need to give you a definitive answer. Tim in Ontario, Canada; '57 TR3A > My 1961 Morgan Plus 4 has a TR3 engine. The engine number is > 8197. Does > anyone know which gear reduction starter it takes, the early > TR3 one or the > later one? How many times has the flywheel been changed ? By 61, it almost certainly had the late starter originally; but it's not at all unusual to find that someone converted at some point; intentionally or not. Back in the 70's, everyone _knew_ "They're all the same". So, as Bob wrote, I would insist on checking which flywheel is installed. BTW, the gear-drive starters are the same except for the gear; and changing the gear is not that difficult. So if you do get the wrong one, you may be able to buy the gear and swap it over. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From guy at genfiniti.com Mon Jul 25 22:08:38 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 23:08:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Covering the Seat Question Message-ID: <7B71A425-B0E8-4C1B-8F0C-ACF9A6595289@genfiniti.com> All, I am in the process of covering the seats and have a question. When I set the back foam into the seat it is proud at the top by roughly 3-4 inches. The top of the cover obviously needs to be flush with the top of the frame. Can anyone advise me on the best procedure to use to make this happen? My guess is to place it over the frame, then pull down until it is flush and clip it down, then start stretching and clipping the sides? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Jul 25 22:59:04 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 23:59:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?do_I_paint_the_radiator_duct_fiberboard=3F?= Message-ID: <20110726045905.EE5A1187885@autox.team.net> There is a waterlike epoxy used to repair rotten wood in boats. It will render the cardboard waterproof though it will darken the cardboard. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: terryrs at comcast.net To: "Ann Carletta" Cc: Subject: [TR] do I paint the radiator duct fiberboard? Date: Mon, Jul 25, 2011 18:23 >The rats found my fiberboard this >winter, so I ordered a new one. Am I supposed to paint it before it's >installed? Hi, Ann. A lot depends on how much you drive your car. If you just tow it to meets and drive it on beautiful days (totally cool), you might get away with original or painted (black, I think, to match the shadow behind your grill.) On the other hand, my '59 TR3 is a daily driver. My experience was painting the cardboard with rubberized undercoating. Still it disintegrated after about four years. Yes, I got caught in downpours a few times. I would suggest a different paint than the rubberized coating, at least. Maybe a primed Rustoleum, something like that. Still, I think the common experience is that even the originals fell apart in very little time. What I did second time around was order the new fiberboard, then used it as a template to fabricate a replacement using an vinyl shower surround found at a garage sale. Painted it black and it's impervioius to water ...or rats.... Then again, I drive mine an hour and a half every day at speeds I dare not confess.... Have fun! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From emw327 at gmail.com Tue Jul 26 00:48:11 2011 From: emw327 at gmail.com (=?UTF-8?B?ZW1haWwg4oWcIg==?=) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 08:48:11 +0200 Subject: [TR] Indiana & Illinois Message-ID: Hello, I have heard of a *1912 Flanders Car* for sale in Indiana or illinois. It belonged to a deceased owner of a car-collection or a small museum. The heirs want to sell the collection. The collection includes not only this car, but T-Fords etc and other cars. Is there anybody who knows what I' talking about? Has anybody the coordinates of the owners? Sincereley, Guido Beringen - Belgium TR250 TR3 From 61TR4ever at comcast.net Tue Jul 26 01:51:03 2011 From: 61TR4ever at comcast.net (Gary Grant) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 03:51:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Lower Dashboard Message-ID: This is in reference to the lower dashboard support bracket, commonly called the H bracket or Horse Collar. There are 3 part numbers listed in the Spare Parts Catalog for this bracket. I am trying to determine which upper bracket I need and the lower bracket could hold the clue. PN 566010 is listed in the first edition only. I suspect this is the one with the large cut-out on the top side. It bolts directly to the dashboard without the upper bracket. Therefore, there appears to be no provision for a radio. It has a plinth in the cutout containing the heater controls instead of the controls being in the body of the bracket as in the later part numbers. PN 566108 is listed in both the first and second edition of the catalog and applies to cats prior to CT 1527. Anyone out there that has a photo of one of these from a pre- CT 1527 car? PN 806506, also in both catalog editions, is the familar bracket that is painted in a black crackle finish. In addition there was a vinyl covered bracket supplied to only the American market after CT 1527 for just a few months. This is the one I have and I'm trying to determine which upper bracket was used. Was it also vinyl covered? Was it a steel plate like the later upper brackets or cast aluminum? It's interesting to note that while this bracket has a casting number of 806506, the casting is clearly much different than the bracket above. So it appears this PN was not included in the catalog. Anyone have a photo of the vinyl covered bracket and the correct upper bracket? I have reason to believe the answer may be found in Service Bulletin T-62-10, Western Zone only. But previous requests to the list for a copy has not been successful. Gary From floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com Tue Jul 26 06:06:13 2011 From: floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com (floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 8:06:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] do I paint the radiator duct fiberboard? Message-ID: <20110726120613.A9VDG.45804.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> I'm not sure which car you have but the TR6 was left unpainted in black. Joe ---- Geo Hahn wrote: > It's my understanding is that they are to be body color. I painted > mine (was light brown but apparently some are now supplied in black) > using Krylon paint for a reasonable match to Signal Red. > > In the 20 years or so since, I've driven in more than a few rain > storms and even managed to submerge the front end once (that was a > memorable ride) but it has held up fine. > > Geo > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com From floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com Tue Jul 26 06:13:15 2011 From: floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com (floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 8:13:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Sticking Choke Cable Message-ID: <20110726121315.GD3ID.45846.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Hello all, Been a while since I've posted here and glad to be back. The choke cable in my 72 TR6 is sticking in place. I took the knob off and used a set of robo-grips to move it back and forth and gave it a squirt of Wurth 2000. Nothing seems to work. The cables are not kinked (but are very long. The carb connections move freely so I don't THINK that is the problem. Any suggestions? Joe B Cocoa, FL 72 TR6 From floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com Tue Jul 26 06:17:22 2011 From: floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com (floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 8:17:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Dash Buttons popping off. Message-ID: <20110726121722.Y4LVA.45867.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Hello all, My 72's heater temp control and air distribution buttons are popping off. I have to assume the years have finally taken their toll on the buttons as they are original. I know I could get new ones from Moss or TRF but the last time I looked they were junk. (Well, looked like junk anyway) Has anyone come up with a way (other than permanently gluing them in place) to keep them in place? Thanks, Joe B Cocoa, FL 72 TR6 From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue Jul 26 06:23:32 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 08:23:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Indiana & Illinois In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <45A107EB4C1E4840800E0258CB086D57@DCH6RFC1> Is this what you were looking for? Andrew Uprichard http://winamac.cannonads.com/46996/cars/1912-flanders-roadster-price- 20000_17185182.html -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of email ?" Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2011 2:48 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Indiana & Illinois Hello, I have heard of a *1912 Flanders Car* for sale in Indiana or illinois. It belonged to a deceased owner of a car-collection or a small museum. The heirs want to sell the collection. The collection includes not only this car, but T-Fords etc and other cars. Is there anybody who knows what I' talking about? Has anybody the coordinates of the owners? Sincereley, Guido Beringen - Belgium TR250 TR3 triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Jul 26 06:52:39 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 05:52:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: <9E770C322A694619B1ED00919A8F444F@userb38463fba5> References: <4E2D6B17.3090504@gmail.com> <9E770C322A694619B1ED00919A8F444F@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <4E2EB897.6030404@gmail.com> On 7/25/11 5:34 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > Bad advise Bad why?? Please explain. It protected the car from flying whatever and the car didn't seem to be any the worse for it. >> >> When I moved from California to Flagstaff, after loading my TR3 on >> the trailer I put its car cover on then wrapped the car cover & car >> in plastic. The soft car cover was on the body and the wrap never >> touched the body except for the underside. It seemed to work OK. From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Jul 26 07:19:49 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 09:19:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bleeding Brakes, TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Agree - could be master cylinder problem - If the master cylinder dry for a while before you fitted the new rear slave, the rubber could have dried out - my clutch slave went out just before a long trip to china and the master cylinder sat empty for 3 weeks - when I got back I put the slave cylinder right but could not keep fluid in the master cylinder a few days later I saw a rather large area of rubber winklely paint - and saw my clutch mc was leaking..... new guts for the master cylinder and no problems since.... Chris 54 TR2 - running like a champ - but getting hot in this 100 degree weather 63 TR4 From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Jul 26 07:29:16 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 09:29:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6/Sitfire Bonnet In-Reply-To: <1311650287.55353.YahooMailClassic@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1311648492.92847.YahooMailNeo@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1311650287.55353.YahooMailClassic@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Sorry to hijack -- Anyone done something similar with struts for the TR4? Thanks Chris From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Jul 26 08:46:19 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 09:46:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Covering_a_newly_painted_car?= Message-ID: <20110726144628.4E21A1878CB@autox.team.net> I suspect that as long as nothing flaps at all, you will be ok. However, I learned the hard way that any flapping removes the paint at that area. Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chances. Guess we beat that dead horse enough! :-) Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" To: "Jerry Van Vlack" Cc: "Triumph List" Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car Date: Tue, Jul 26, 2011 07:52 On 7/25/11 5:34 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > Bad advise Bad why?? Please explain. It protected the car from flying whatever and the car didn't seem to be any the worse for it. >> >> When I moved from California to Flagstaff, after loading my TR3 on >> the trailer I put its car cover on then wrapped the car cover & car >> in plastic. The soft car cover was on the body and the wrap never >> touched the body except for the underside. It seemed to work OK. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Jul 26 09:22:16 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 08:22:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: <4e2ed334.8760340a.383e.ffffae80SMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> References: <4e2ed334.8760340a.383e.ffffae80SMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <4E2EDBA8.5040206@gmail.com> On 7/26/11 7:46 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > I suspect that as long as nothing flaps at all, you will be ok. > However, I learned the hard way that any flapping removes the paint at > that area. > Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chances. So the problem is flapping wrap repeatedly striking the car? I put the car cover over the car then mummified the cover 100% with wrap a couple layers deep. At the end of the about 1000 journey some of the wrap had come loose but the car cover had not moved and still protected the car. Is it a matter of the under covering and how well you mummify the under covering? Or are there other hazards that got exacerbated by the cover and wrap combination? I was planning to keep this in my bag of tricks for moving a roadster long distance and would like to know what I'm not understanding. I thought I came up with a good way to protect it being trailered on long trips and protected from small kicked up rocks and rain. It was Flagstaff's rainy season and the car was rained on daily for a couple days until I could get it into a storage room. Thanks for your input Teriann From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Jul 26 09:59:06 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 08:59:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Dash Buttons popping off. In-Reply-To: <20110726121722.Y4LVA.45867.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> References: <20110726121722.Y4LVA.45867.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Message-ID: Super Glue  > Hello all, > > My 72's heater temp control and air distribution buttons are popping off. I have to assume the years have finally taken their toll on the buttons as they are original. I know I could get new ones from Moss or TRF but the last time I looked they were junk. (Well, looked like junk anyway) Has anyone come up with a way (other than permanently gluing them in place) to keep them in place? > > Thanks, > > Joe B > Cocoa, FL > 72 TR6 Bill Pugh Casper TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 26 11:07:11 2011 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 10:07:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Shifting a tub on a frame. Message-ID: <1311700031.59324.YahooMailRC@web114702.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I've asked this question on the 6 Pack forum but it occurs to me (finally but slowly) that all TRs up to the TR6 had a separte frame and tub so I wanted to post the question here to gain the benefit of the broader view as there is no reason this issue should be specific to the 6. It looks to me like the body of my 69 TR6 sits a little right of center on the frame. I only noticed it after a 4 wheel alignment with GP brackets as the left rear wheel is closer to the edge of the fender than is the right - and yes I 've checked for equivalent wheel offset, easy with stock rims. Prior to the alignment the wheels were all over the place so its not a result of using GP brackets (which are really cool by the way). The car is from the central valley of California and is still in its orginal paint so I can see that it has never had any accident damage and it obviously isnt rusty. The local alignment shop has a deep history with Spitfires and tells me it was quite common for these cars to be shipped from the factory like this, of course it may have moved on its own as the rubber pads between the frame and body dried up with the rest of the rubber during 33 years in Modesto. SO FINALLY TO THE QUESTION...If I loosen all of the body to frame hardware, is there enough wiggle room in the body to wiggle or push it into alignment with the frame? I suppose I'm asking in the holes in the body are elongated or if it is what it is and I should learn to live with it. Thanks for any help! Steve From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Jul 26 11:13:37 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 12:13:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Shifting a tub on a frame. In-Reply-To: <1311700031.59324.YahooMailRC@web114702.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1311700031.59324.YahooMailRC@web114702.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <05F240C3-C97D-433A-9F41-2710BAFCC6A4@genfiniti.com> Steve, My experience with the TR4A is that the holes drilled through the body tub are NOT elongated, so you should not expect to simply loosen the bolts and give the tub a push into position. The most wiggle room I would expect is about 1/8" per hole, but depending on the length of the body away from the hole, it could result in inches of difference. On Jul 26, 2011, at 12:07 PM, Steve Smith wrote: > I've asked this question on the 6 Pack forum but it occurs to me (finally but > slowly) that all TRs up to the TR6 had a separte frame and tub so I wanted to > post the question here to gain the benefit of the broader view as there is no > reason this issue should be specific to the 6. > > It looks to me like the body > of my 69 TR6 sits a little right of center on the > frame. I only noticed it > after a 4 wheel alignment with GP brackets as the left > rear wheel is closer > to the edge of the fender than is the right - and yes I 've > checked for > equivalent wheel offset, easy with stock rims. Prior to the > alignment the > wheels were all over the place so its not a result of using GP > brackets > (which are really cool by the way). The car is from the central valley > of > California and is still in its orginal paint so I can see that it has never > had any accident damage and it obviously isnt rusty. > > > The local alignment > shop has a deep history with Spitfires and tells me it was > quite common for > these cars to be shipped from the factory like this, of course > it may have > moved on its own as the rubber pads between the frame and body dried > up with > the rest of the rubber during 33 years in Modesto. > > SO FINALLY TO THE > QUESTION...If I loosen all of the body to frame hardware, is > there enough > wiggle room in the body to wiggle or push it into alignment with > the frame? I > suppose I'm asking in the holes in the body are elongated or if it > is what it > is and I should learn to live with it. > > > Thanks for any help! > Steve > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 26 11:58:05 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 13:58:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car Message-ID: <26f0e.281b7ee8.3b605a2d@cs.com> In a message dated 7/26/2011 10:22:26 AM Central Daylight Time, tjwakeman at gmail.com writes: > Is it a matter of the under covering and how well you mummify the under > covering? What if you wrapped the car in sheepskin? Then the flapping would just buff the car to a brilliant shine. ;-) Dave From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Tue Jul 26 12:11:58 2011 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 11:11:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C071BA4459B@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> Dave, best answer yet: Wrap the car in sheepskin. Just be sure the wool side is in. Or just tie a bunch of sheep to it! Peter Arakelian From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jul 26 12:26:55 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 11:26:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Shifting a tub on a frame. In-Reply-To: <1311700031.59324.YahooMailRC@web114702.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1311700031.59324.YahooMailRC@web114702.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <077501cc4bc1$9afac9c0$d0f05d40$@rr.com> Not directly applicable, but I had the same problem with my TR3A, to the extent that my wide tires would clear on one side and not on the other. As Guy noted, there was very little wiggle room in the original holes, so I actually opened them up a bit with a die grinder. Once I got the body better centered, I found that the rear bumpers would not line up with their mounts. My advice would be to live with it, secure in the knowledge that it is "as original". -- Randall From jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net Tue Jul 26 12:27:55 2011 From: jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net (Jerrold Le Tourneau) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 14:27:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph GT6 MK1 door side mirror placement Message-ID: <4E2F072B.50706@verizon.net> Hello all, One thing I've never been able to figure out is what is the correct location for side mirror placement on the GT6 or Spit. I've seen them on the doors and on the bonnet. My mirror is useless as it is located just off the vent window. If I sat in the hatch area it would be fine. Can't see a damn thing with a quick glance. I have to really contort myself to see anything other then the side of the car. I have made all the necessary adjustments but no real improvement. I'm thinking of moving it the bonnet and closing over the hole on the door. Anybody know what the true correct placement is suppose to be? Is there a traffic/safety regulation that prohibits moving the mirror(s) to the bonnet? I have the car registered in Maryland. Any thoughts? JL From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 26 12:36:54 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 14:36:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car Message-ID: <28a40.59c6da1.3b606346@cs.com> In a message dated 7/26/2011 1:19:50 PM Central Daylight Time, arakelianp at mossmotors.com writes: > Dave, best answer yet: Wrap the car in sheepskin. > Just be sure the wool side is in. > Or just tie a bunch of sheep to it! > Don't do that in Texas. That's cattle country! Dave From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jul 26 13:11:11 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 15:11:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph GT6 MK1 door side mirror placement In-Reply-To: <4E2F072B.50706@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4E2ED90F.14929.234141A3@localhost> > One thing I've never been able to figure out is what is the > correct location for side mirror placement on the GT6 or Spit. As I understand it the various positions for the passenger-side mirror were almost at the whim of the dealer, seein' as how it was a dealer-installed option. I have mine on the door on both Spitfire and GT6. The right-side mirror can't be adjusted to show the lane behind me (nor can the left- side very well either, for that matter!) but they do show me the contents of the adjacent lanes. It took a bit of getting used to but it is probably better to know that than what is directly behind. You can also put a convex mirror on them. (I don't really like convex mirrors because they make it harder to tell how far away something is.) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jul 26 13:29:37 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 14:29:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C071BA4459B@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C071BA4459B@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> Message-ID: Recently moved Tarbaby 1,100 miles, just drove it into the back of a U-Haul. No worries, no scratches. Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Jul 26, 2011, at 1:11 PM, Pete Arakelian wrote: > Dave, best answer yet: Wrap the car in sheepskin. > Just be sure the wool side is in. > Or just tie a bunch of sheep to it! > > Peter Arakelian > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Jul 26 13:32:38 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 13:32:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR2011 Volunteers? Message-ID: List, We seem to have fewer volunteers for helping with VTR this year. The Rocky Mountain Triumph Club has a core team of really hardworking people organizing and working the events but we'd like them to be able to participate in VTR events as well as work the convention. If you're attending would you be interested in helping out for an event for an hour or two? Please email me off line and I'll send you an excel spreadsheet to look at, fill in a spot or two, and send back to me. First to volunteer get the best choices. For those of you attending and/or signed up for the autocross we would like "corner captains" for the work stations on the course. There will be 2-3 people at each work station and you'd be the person with the radio and fire extinguisher, and the point of contact for autocross officials. Let me know if you can help. The RMTC is looking forward to putting on VTR this year in a beautiful area (Breckenridge) and I'm looking forward to seeing all my VTR friends. Thanks to Irv Korey and Mike Bilyk of ISOA who have volunteered to help already. Thanks for any help you can provide. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com Tue Jul 26 13:55:35 2011 From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 15:55:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Window Problems on my TR4 Message-ID: Hi all, Just wondering if I am missing something or if there are any tricks to keeping a door window in it's track. It seems as though the problem is only limited to the passenger's side. The window is tough to crank and virtually every time I crank it fully open it falls out of the track closest to the front of the car. I am hoping to get my door panels & door hardware re-installed but this window is proving to be a thorn in my passenger's side. Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated. John D 1962 TR4 in NH From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com Tue Jul 26 13:55:35 2011 From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 15:55:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Window Problems on my TR4 Message-ID: Hi all, Just wondering if I am missing something or if there are any tricks to keeping a door window in it's track. It seems as though the problem is only limited to the passenger's side. The window is tough to crank and virtually every time I crank it fully open it falls out of the track closest to the front of the car. I am hoping to get my door panels & door hardware re-installed but this window is proving to be a thorn in my passenger's side. Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated. John D 1962 TR4 in NH From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 26 15:18:54 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 17:18:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] VTR2011 Volunteers? Message-ID: <2be71.48af60e4.3b60893e@cs.com> In a message dated 7/26/2011 2:34:03 PM Central Daylight Time, levilevi at comcast.net writes: > List, > > We seem to have fewer volunteers for helping with VTR this year. The > Rocky Mountain Triumph Club has a core team of really hardworking > people organizing and working the events but we'd like them to be able > to participate in VTR events as well as work the convention. > > If you're attending would you be interested in helping out for an > event for an hour or two? Please email me off line and I'll send you > an excel spreadsheet to look at, fill in a spot or two, and send back > to me. First to volunteer get the best choices. > And we NEED Concours judges! Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 26 15:28:54 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 17:28:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Window Problems on my TR4 Message-ID: <2c671.72e92b5.3b608b95@cs.com> In a message dated 7/26/2011 3:01:03 PM Central Daylight Time, john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com writes: > Just wondering if I am missing something or if there are any tricks to > keeping a door window in it's track. It seems as though the problem is > only limited to the passenger's side. The window is tough to crank and > virtually every time I crank it fully open it falls out of the track > closest to the front of the car. > I am hoping to get my door panels &door hardware re-installed but this > window is proving to be a thorn in my passenger's side. > Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated. > The mechanism is a scissors arrangement with one end attached to the crank and the other three on rollers in tracks. One is on a fixed track and the other two work in a track attached to the window. If the window is falling out of the track one of the wheels may have fallen out of the track. The other cause may be due to the track is loose or bent and is not confining the glass as it should. Let us know what you find when you get it apart. Dave From floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com Tue Jul 26 15:09:30 2011 From: floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com (floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 17:09:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Dash Buttons popping off. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20110726210930.44VMM.49502.root@cdptpa-web16-z02> Well, thought of that. But I'd like to be able to remove them if I need to get the console off to get to the transmission. ---- William Pugh wrote: > Super Glue b& > > > Hello all, > > > > My 72's heater temp control and air distribution buttons are popping off. I have to assume the years have finally taken their toll on the buttons as they are original. I know I could get new ones from Moss or TRF but the last time I looked they were junk. (Well, looked like junk anyway) Has anyone come up with a way (other than permanently gluing them in place) to keep them in place? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Joe B > > Cocoa, FL > > 72 TR6 > > Bill Pugh > Casper > TS16665L > anabil007 at comcast.net From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Jul 26 16:50:58 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 22:50:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 engines In-Reply-To: <027401cc4b44$dd859400$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1038288421.249727.1311720658509.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >By 61, it almost certainly had the late starter originally; but it's not at >all unusual to find that someone converted at some point; intentionally or >not. Back in the 70's, everyone _knew_ "They're all the same". Heartily second this. When I restored my rusted '59 TR3A, it had sat for 27 years. I had the starter rebuilt, reinstalled it, and it didn't work. Turns out, someone had bought a new starter...a bullet-nose...and it was the wrong one for the flywheel. That actually might have been why somebody parked it in the first place back in 1973, being unable to figure out why it wouldn't start.... From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Jul 26 16:56:20 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 18:56:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car References: <4E2D6B17.3090504@gmail.com> <9E770C322A694619B1ED00919A8F444F@userb38463fba5> <4E2EB897.6030404@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0B9E1EEDA3AD47449AAE899F8038CB92@userb38463fba5> I say it's bad advise because there are too many variables that could go wrong by wrapping and covering the car. You were lucky in my opinion. A fellow enthusiast and a well respected individual that I just met advised against wrapping and trailering a freshly powdered coated frame for the same reasons that many have stated here. My guess is that painters would advise against doing it as well. As for paint a week old being OK I disagree with that too. My freshly painted TR4A was brought home in December and placed indoors until just recently when I finished the car. This past weekend was it's first real outing and in the hot sun. You could still smell the volatiles gassing off for a good portion of the day. It was several months old at that time but not fully cured so it seems. If worried then a closed trailer is the only safe way to transport the car. In the end you'll have to drive it sometime unless it's going to be a trailer queen. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" To: "Jerry Van Vlack" Cc: "Triumph List" Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2011 8:52 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Covering a newly painted car > On 7/25/11 5:34 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: >> Bad advise > > Bad why?? Please explain. It protected the car from flying whatever and > the car didn't seem to be any the worse for it. > >>> >>> When I moved from California to Flagstaff, after loading my TR3 on the >>> trailer I put its car cover on then wrapped the car cover & car in >>> plastic. The soft car cover was on the body and the wrap never touched >>> the body except for the underside. It seemed to work OK. From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jul 26 17:37:53 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 18:37:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: <4E2D6B17.3090504@gmail.com> References: <4E2D6B17.3090504@gmail.com> Message-ID: Teriann, Did you use the type of shrink-wrap that they seal up boats with for the winter? Did you use any additional padding over the cover and under the wrap to protect the front of the car from any road gravel? Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Jul 25, 2011, at 8:09 AM, "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" wrote: > On 7/24/11 7:21 PM, Cliff Hansen wrote: >> >> An enclosed trailer is not an option, as I have one tow vehicle and own the flatbed trailer, and we're moving from Nevada to New Mexico. > When I moved from California to Flagstaff, after loading my TR3 on the trailer I put its car cover on then wrapped the car cover & car in plastic. The soft car cover was on the body and the wrap never touched the body except for the underside. It seemed to work OK. The paint was not new but I was concerned about flying debris and night time visitors. No one tried to unwrap the car to see what was underneath and nothing got through the wrap. It takes 2 people & lots of wrap to cocoon a TR. > > If your paint is at least a week old you should be fine. > > Teriann > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From rjones at wfeca.net Tue Jul 26 17:54:54 2011 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 19:54:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Dash Buttons popping off. In-Reply-To: <20110726210930.44VMM.49502.root@cdptpa-web16-z02> References: <20110726210930.44VMM.49502.root@cdptpa-web16-z02> Message-ID: I have never had a bit of problem with the ones purchased from TRF coming off. I really think the quality is as good or better now than original. Bob On Jul 26, 2011, at 5:09 PM, wrote: > Well, thought of that. But I'd like to be able to remove them if I need to > get the console off to get to the transmission. > ---- William Pugh wrote: >> Super Glue b& >> >>> Hello all, >>> >>> My 72's heater temp control and air distribution buttons are popping off. > I have to assume the years have finally taken their toll on the buttons as > they are original. I know I could get new ones from Moss or TRF but the last > time I looked they were junk. (Well, looked like junk anyway) Has anyone > come up with a way (other than permanently gluing them in place) to keep them > in place? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Joe B >>> Cocoa, FL >>> 72 TR6 >> >> Bill Pugh >> Casper >> TS16665L >> anabil007 at comcast.net > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Jul 27 06:04:46 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 08:04:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Window Problems on my TR4 In-Reply-To: <2c671.72e92b5.3b608b95@cs.com> References: <2c671.72e92b5.3b608b95@cs.com> Message-ID: I had similar issues 3 or 4 years back. When I took my windows apart I had a few issues. The clip that holds the scissors arrangement that Dave spoke about had broken on one of the mechanisms - and both sides the window tracks were really worn. I bought new track from JC Whitney, and it came in a long cardboard tube - damaged but I think it was handled roughly. Even though they were tweaked, it was easy to bend them straight. I drilled out the rivets from the old tracks and cut new ones to length and riveted back in place - afternoon job and works well. I ended up going the hardware store and buying a few of those axle caps to hold the mechanism together. BTW - those clips are hard to figure out when installed - they slide to one side and pull off - there is a spring finger in the center of the clip that holds tension once in place - that center spring was broken on my clip. if your tracks and mechanism looks good - it could just be a spacing issue with the track - you can make some adjustments with shims or washers to move the tracks around once you are in there. I also made sure the holes in the bottom of my door were open while I was in there - and treated the inside surface rust with rust restorer before painting it. I glued plastic sheet inside the interior panel before re-installing the door panel as I saw some water stains on the door panel as well. Chris From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Jul 27 06:07:21 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 08:07:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Window Problems on my TR4 In-Reply-To: References: <2c671.72e92b5.3b608b95@cs.com> Message-ID: Sorry - I had a brain lapse and did not finish my thought on the clips - - I tried the axle cap and it worked but was sloppy - I switched it out for an appropriately sized Jesus clip (from the same hardware store) and that has worked well. Chris From emw327 at gmail.com Wed Jul 27 06:32:47 2011 From: emw327 at gmail.com (=?UTF-8?B?ZW1haWwg4oWcIg==?=) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 14:32:47 +0200 Subject: [TR] Winamac Indiana Message-ID: Hello Yes, but the owner, not the middelman... Greetings and thank you Guido Vanoppen Beringen- Belgium Message: 3 Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 08:23:32 -0400 From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: 'email ?"', Subject: Re: [TR] Indiana & Illinois Message-ID: <45A107EB4C1E4840800E0258CB086D57 at DCH6RFC1> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ks_c_5601-1987" Is this what you were looking for? Andrew Uprichard http://winamac.cannonads.com/46996/cars/1912-flanders-roadster-price- 20000_17185182.html From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Jul 27 06:49:25 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 05:49:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: References: <4E2D6B17.3090504@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4E300955.6000804@gmail.com> On 7/26/11 4:37 PM, Wbeech wrote: > Teriann, > Did you use the type of shrink-wrap that they seal up boats with for the winter? Did you use any additional padding over the cover and under the wrap to protect the front of the car from any road gravel? > My assumption, wrong though it might be is that my car cover would protect the car surface and the wrap would: 1. Hold the car cover in place 2. provide minimal but some rain protection 3. provide a first lay of protection of things being thrown up. But most importantly keep the car cover in place. I should mention I had the interior full of stuff and the car cover was also there to keep the wind from sucking stuff out of the inside of the car (The hard to was on the TR3 but not the side curtains). I just used the commercial stretch plastic wrap that adheres to itself. One problem is that I had to add more wrap about half way there because some of the first wrap had stretched. I was unaware of stuff they use for boats in the winter. Never seen it used in any of the marinas in the bay. I double wrapped the car under two layers. I guess I could have done as well without wrapping the car in the first place but it would have been rained upon a few times and the interior would have been soaked. And I would have been worried about vandles. Maybe the wrap was more of a security blanket for me? But bottom line is that the car's paint was unharmed and plastic never beat upon bare paint. Teriann From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Wed Jul 27 09:21:11 2011 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 16:21:11 +0100 Subject: [TR] Head studs Q Message-ID: Are the head studs for the low port head on my TR2 the same length for the later TR3 head? I am still looking for a source for reasonably priced set of studs and also wondering if the ARP are the only way to go Regards John last of the long doors From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jul 27 10:23:01 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 11:23:01 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Head studs Q Message-ID: <6683333.920797.1311783781331.JavaMail.root@vznit170134> From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jul 27 14:59:45 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 13:59:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] New Seatbelt Decals Message-ID: <217486AF3F624F4CA8BD7407758FB263@Vista> At the request of one of the list members, I did a special seatbelt decal in a color combination that was similar to the front badge on TR2 and early TR3 models. Although there were no seatbelts installed from the factory on these models, many people have installed airplane style lap belts with a flat buckle. These will fit nicely on those buckles. Here is a link (scroll down for the seatbelt decals) http://members.cox.net/spitlist/centercaps.html Cheers, Joe From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jul 27 17:14:12 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 16:14:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head studs Q In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <097101cc4cb2$e91a3400$bb4e9c00$@rr.com> > Are the head studs for the low port head on my TR2 the same length for > the later TR3 head? Yes and no. The later engines used 4 or 5 different lengths of studs (depending on vintage); two of which were the same length as the TR2 studs. But a TR4 set (which is all I could find listed by ARP) is not going to fit unless you buy several sets and use only the studs you need; or else convince ARP to assemble a TR2 set. Obviously they have the parts, but I could not find individual head studs listed in their catalog. > also wondering if the ARP are the only way to go I have had remarkably few problems with original studs over the years. I have managed to damage a few by over-torquing (150 ft-lb is too much), but all of my head gasket problems have eventually been traced to something else. The main issue seems to be getting the correct flat washers (which are harder and smaller than ordinary flat washers and need to be replaced when they get chewed up); and I also use a set of 'tall' head nuts from British Frame & Engine (which may not help, but look trick ). -- Randall From dlylis at gmail.com Wed Jul 27 17:18:50 2011 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 23:18:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] Shifting a tub on a frame. In-Reply-To: <1311700031.59324.YahooMailRC@web114702.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1311700031.59324.YahooMailRC@web114702.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My 69 is exactly the same. If it bothers you, this is what I recommend. Don't stand in back of the car to look at it. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Steve Smith Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 10:07:11 To: Subject: [TR] Shifting a tub on a frame. I've asked this question on the 6 Pack forum but it occurs to me (finally but slowly) that all TRs up to the TR6 had a separte frame and tub so I wanted to post the question here to gain the benefit of the broader view as there is no reason this issue should be specific to the 6. It looks to me like the body of my 69 TR6 sits a little right of center on the frame. I only noticed it after a 4 wheel alignment with GP brackets as the left rear wheel is closer to the edge of the fender than is the right - and yes I 've checked for equivalent wheel offset, easy with stock rims. Prior to the alignment the wheels were all over the place so its not a result of using GP brackets (which are really cool by the way). The car is from the central valley of California and is still in its orginal paint so I can see that it has never had any accident damage and it obviously isnt rusty. The local alignment shop has a deep history with Spitfires and tells me it was quite common for these cars to be shipped from the factory like this, of course it may have moved on its own as the rubber pads between the frame and body dried up with the rest of the rubber during 33 years in Modesto. SO FINALLY TO THE QUESTION...If I loosen all of the body to frame hardware, is there enough wiggle room in the body to wiggle or push it into alignment with the frame? I suppose I'm asking in the holes in the body are elongated or if it is what it is and I should learn to live with it. Thanks for any help! Steve triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed Jul 27 18:03:38 2011 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 19:03:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: <28a40.59c6da1.3b606346@cs.com> References: <28a40.59c6da1.3b606346@cs.com> Message-ID: In addition it is a baaaaaad plan. Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 14:36:54 -0400 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Covering a newly painted car > > In a message dated 7/26/2011 1:19:50 PM Central Daylight Time, > arakelianp at mossmotors.com writes: > > Dave, best answer yet: Wrap the car in sheepskin. > > Just be sure the wool side is in. > > Or just tie a bunch of sheep to it! > > > Don't do that in Texas. That's cattle country! > > Dave > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jul 27 18:27:45 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 17:27:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In-Reply-To: References: <28a40.59c6da1.3b606346@cs.com> Message-ID: Here might be something that would help! http://www.buyroadwrap.com/ Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2011 5:04 PM To: Dave Massey; TR owners List Subject: Re: [TR] Covering a newly painted car In addition it is a baaaaaad plan. Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 14:36:54 -0400 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Covering a newly painted car > > In a message dated 7/26/2011 1:19:50 PM Central Daylight Time, > arakelianp at mossmotors.com writes: > > Dave, best answer yet: Wrap the car in sheepskin. > > Just be sure the wool side is in. > > Or just tie a bunch of sheep to it! > > > Don't do that in Texas. That's cattle country! > > Dave > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jul 27 21:05:02 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 23:05:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: Head studs Q In-Reply-To: <6683333.920797.1311783781331.JavaMail.root@vznit170134> References: <6683333.920797.1311783781331.JavaMail.root@vznit170134> Message-ID: I sent this earlier but for some reason I cant change from html format through Verizon directly. Sorry. C From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2011 12:23 PM To: JGILLIS at tcd.ie; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Head studs Q According to the S/T Parts - pg 1. stud lengths changed at 13052E although it looks like the head changed at 9350E. from: 6 x 106959 = 5" 4 x 106960 = 9" 2 x 113570 = 5 3/8" 1 x 121734 = 5 9/16" to: 3 x 106959 = 5" 2 x 106960 = 9" 2 x 113169 = 9 1/2" 5 x 113570 = 5 3/8" 1 x 121734 = 5 9/16" TRF has all listed with a price - that does not guarantee that they are in stock Moss-UK does as well but does not show the 6/4/2/1 configuration in their diagram - only the later configuration. Could it be that the lengths were increased for a particular reason? On 07/27/11, John Gillis wrote: Are the head studs for the low port head on my TR2 the same length for the later TR3 head? I am still looking for a source for reasonably priced set of studs and also wondering if the ARP are the only way to go Regards John last of the long doors From McGaheyRx at aol.com Thu Jul 28 19:20:07 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 21:20:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] new Haynes manual Message-ID: <388b4.f6e5ab6.3b6364c7@aol.com> _http://scarbsf1.wordpress.com/2011/07/19/book-review-haynes-red-bull-racing -f1-car/_ (http://scarbsf1.wordpress.com/2011/07/19/book-review-haynes-red-bull-racing-f1-car/) its probably just as bad as the TR6 Haynes manual From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Jul 28 10:26:47 2011 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 12:26:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party & FT decals Message-ID: I will be bringing the left over Fred Thomas memorial stickers and decals to the upcoming TRF Summer Party. I will have the Green TR8 there, don't know about the Vintage Race Spitfire. Will probably have the canopy set up near the autox finish line as usual or you can call me on my cell their at 440-225-0209 if you want to purchase one. $1.00 each is the cost. Marty Sukey From pryner at verizon.net Thu Jul 28 16:26:42 2011 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 18:26:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] su carb overhaul source Message-ID: <2EEAD5F4FBE44832AFB5D9FD9A863312@PetePC> I need to rebuild a pair of HS-4 carbs. They need a full overhaul including throttle shaft bushing replacements. After finding the best parts cost on the web I came up with $170 for parts for both carbs. I checked with the CAR component of the RF and they will do the throttle shafts for $135/pr. That brings the total to $305. I found SUCarbs.com on the web and they will do the whole job for $325 including all needed parts and shipping. They also polish the dashpots, use stainless screws and will include cleaning the heat shield and manifold at no extra cost. Has anyone had any experience with this company? Sounds great but I'd like some feedback first. TIA Pete From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Thu Jul 28 21:49:53 2011 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 20:49:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear Body Elecrical Harness WANTED 73-76 Message-ID: <1311911393.47765.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hello Triumph Friends- I am looking for a good used '73 - '76 TR6 rear body electrical harness. Does anyone have one surplus to their needs? Please reply off-list. Thank you, Chad in Tulsa From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 29 03:45:58 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 02:45:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: Head studs Q In-Reply-To: References: <6683333.920797.1311783781331.JavaMail.root@vznit170134> Message-ID: <07e701cc4dd4$52033850$0301a8c0@randall> Carl wrote: > According to the S/T Parts - pg 1. > stud lengths changed at 13052E although it looks like the > head changed at > 9350E. The head change at 9350E was to the "Le Mans" head, which was still a low port head (and therefore took the same studs, manifolds & gaskets as the earlier head). The change from low port to high port head was at 13052E. > from: > 6 x 106959 = 5" > 4 x 106960 = 9" > 2 x 113570 = 5 3/8" > 1 x 121734 = 5 9/16" Each engine only needs 10 head studs, not 13! I believe the first two lines are the correct listing for early engines with low port heads. Then at the introduction of the high port head, all of the studs on the RH side (where the ports are) got longer. So for early high port engines, the transition was: (6) 5" -> (3) 5" + (3) 5-3/8 (4) 9" -> (2) 9" + (2) 9-1/2 Then at a later, unspecified point (and this is where the mistake comes in), the rearmost stud on the RH side got longer by 3/16" to accommodate the engine lifting strap. So the last two head stud lines in the SPC (for (2) 113570 + (1) 121734) are supposed to be in place of the (3) 113570 listed after TS13052E. -- Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Jul 29 05:18:19 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 06:18:19 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] su carb overhaul source Message-ID: <596294501.3767091.1311938300003.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> http://www.paltech1.com/ is who you want to do it, many members on the list have used them including myself. Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 Jul 29, 2011 12:03:03 AM, pryner at verizon.net wrote: I need to rebuild a pair of HS-4 carbs. They need a full overhaul including throttle shaft bushing replacements. After finding the best parts cost on the web I came up with $170 for parts for both carbs. I checked with the CAR component of the RF and they will do the throttle shafts for $135/pr. That brings the total to $305. I found SUCarbs.com on the web and they will do the whole job for $325 including all needed parts and shipping. They also polish the dashpots, use stainless screws and will include cleaning the heat shield and manifold at no extra cost. Has anyone had any experience with this company? Sounds great but I'd like some feedback first. TIA Pete triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From dwillner at ptd.net Fri Jul 29 07:34:39 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 09:34:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch slave adjustment questions Message-ID: When I replaced the slave I didn't get around to fully adjusting it, kinda followed the set up of the old one. In order to get the clutch pedal to disengage higher, I'll need to turn the lock nut on the rod counter clockwise to increase how far the rod goes back into the cylinder, correct, or am I wrong on that? My pedal disengages fairly close to the floor right now, and I'd like to try and raise it a bit...Haynes has once again got me confused. Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jul 29 08:30:59 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 07:30:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch slave adjustment questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <080601cc4dfc$22d82630$0301a8c0@randall> It's important to have some freeplay at the clutch slave, and the freeplay goes down over time (as the friction plate wears). There are also other factors that affect pedal height. So IMO it's better to check and adjust the freeplay directly, then worry about pedal position if necessary. (Also re-check slave freeplay as part of the annual chassis service.) Checking the freeplay against the rather stiff spring can be difficult, so the factory later recommended loosening the locknut, and then screwing the rod out of the clevis until all the freeplay was gone. Turn the nut (if necessary) until the specified 0.100" can be measured between the face of the nut and the clevis, then turn the rod (which should carry the nut along with it) until the nut just touches the clevis. This should produce 0.100" of freeplay (and plenty of margin for wear). But the adjustment itself is not very critical, as long as there is _some_ freeplay and you re-adjust before all of the freeplay is gone. So I prefer to just pull on the clutch lever and eyeball how far I can move it by hand. If you can pull it out by 1/16" or so, it's OK IMO. -- Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Jul 29 09:45:55 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:45:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch slave adjustment questions In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <201146561.17523.1311954355993.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Dave, At rest, the rod and piston should be bottomed in the slave cylinder (all the way back). The returnB spring will see to it. And by the way, some cars will have to have the slave cylinder on the back (rear) of the mounting bracket due to the length of the rod regardless of the photo in the shop manual. Ed Woods ----- Original Message ----- From: "davewillner" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, July 29, 2011 9:34:39 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch slave adjustment questions When I replaced the slave I didn't get around to fully adjusting it, kinda followed the set up of the old one. In order to get the clutch pedal to disengage higher, I'll need to turn the lock nut on the rod counter clockwise to increase how far the rod goes back into the cylinder, correct, or am I wrong on that? My pedal disengages fairly close to the floor right now, and I'd like to try and raise it a bit...Haynes has once again got me confused. Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Fri Jul 29 15:15:31 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 14:15:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] new Haynes manual Message-ID: <1311974131.81034.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> _http://scarbsf1.wordpress.com/2011/07/19/book-review-haynes-red-bull-racing -f1-car/_ (http://scarbsf1.wordpress.com/2011/07/19/book-review-haynes-red-bull-racing- f1-car/) its probably just as bad as the TR6 Haynes manual ----------------------- I know their TR4A is pretty bad, also. Question: I wounder if they have one for the Duesenburg? I've been working on a Hubbly cast die model for over 15+ yr., & something like this would help in me getting the wiring correct. -Cosmo Kramer From guy at genfiniti.com Fri Jul 29 16:37:45 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 17:37:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fitting pull cables Message-ID: <5B26EFF0-BA83-4BE6-9450-B9F127586835@genfiniti.com> Listers, What is the best way to fit our push/pull cables on the water valve, vent flap and choke? Is it possible for the cable to be too long? I've attached mine for the water valve many times, in trial and error, and still cannot get enough stiffness on the push to close the valve. From keithstewart at execulink.com Fri Jul 29 16:47:51 2011 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 18:47:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party & FT decals In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3AA6F210-7065-4E6D-8620-FAFE8FB9760A@execulink.com> On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 at 12:26:47 -0400 marty sukey wrote: > > I will be bringing the left over Fred Thomas memorial stickers and decals to > the upcoming TRF Summer Party. Got mine affixed to the windshield for the trip to Armagh ... and my other cars' windshields ... and my trailer ... and my toolbox ... you get the idea. I know I am going to miss Fred when I get to the TRF grounds and don't see his TR3A parked next to the entrance door to the shop or when he is not at our table when we sit down to dinner. I know I said this before Marty, but thanks so much for doing this. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Jul 30 08:58:08 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 10:58:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Post 60000 Rear Seat Q Message-ID: Does anyone have images of a post-60000 rear seat - both in and out (top, side, and bottom views) of the car? I really need to see how it meets up to the rear panel. Does it 'butt' up to it or go underneath? Is the back edge finished or does the material only go under the panel? I have the basic measurements and all of the materials but want to provide examples to "my" upholsterer (a friend who happens to be in the business). Seat board = 12" x 33" Finished = 15" x 35" (need to check the width) Thanks a bunch... Carl TS81802LO From spitfire at freebacon.net Sat Jul 30 10:09:25 2011 From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch) Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 10:09:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] su carb overhaul source In-Reply-To: <2EEAD5F4FBE44832AFB5D9FD9A863312@PetePC> References: <2EEAD5F4FBE44832AFB5D9FD9A863312@PetePC> Message-ID: <24686E15EAB74EFBA37355ECB25D20F8@Spike> I think this is the same sucarbs.com that I worked with in May/June this year. It used to be in Pueblo, Colorado, now the web page says it's in Wichita, Kansas. If you call and talk to Chester, then it's the same guy who did mine. He rebuilt 2 sets of my SU HS2. One set was on the car, wouldn't stay in balance, poor performance, etc; the other set was in a box partially disassembled with no linkage. I haven't had any problems with his work. I'd definitely use him again. The polishing is outstanding. Dashpot covers, body, linkages, etc look like they were chromed. The only bad thing is that it makes the rest of the engine look old Mike Welch Colorado Springs, CO '69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2 '69 Honda SL350 -----Original Message----- From: Peter Ryner Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2011 4:26 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com Subject: [TR] su carb overhaul source I need to rebuild a pair of HS-4 carbs. They need a full overhaul including throttle shaft bushing replacements. After finding the best parts cost on the web I came up with $170 for parts for both carbs. I checked with the CAR component of the RF and they will do the throttle shafts for $135/pr. That brings the total to $305. I found SUCarbs.com on the web and they will do the whole job for $325 including all needed parts and shipping. They also polish the dashpots, use stainless screws and will include cleaning the heat shield and manifold at no extra cost. Has anyone had any experience with this company? Sounds great but I'd like some feedback first. TIA Pete From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Jul 30 13:24:59 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 15:24:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Body Tub Message-ID: <42F53E1FB27E4C87A2034A32B429F1F2@userb38463fba5> I have a TR4A body tub with doors and fiberglass rear fenders sitting on a TR6 new body shipping frame (the frame that the big 3 get their TR6 new bodies shipped from England) available. Some rust in the likely places but never bent. I've owned the car since 1969. I restored my car with a near perfect tub from Texas so this is excess to me. I'd like $500.00 for the tub and shipping frame. Any interest? I may be interested in selling pieces if no one wants the whole thing. I may keep the doors. JVV From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Jul 30 20:23:39 2011 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 22:23:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Insurance Message-ID: I guess its kind of Triumph related as they are sometimes parked next to them in the garage. We recently got a car insurance quote from Hartford/AARP for the daily drivers. Pretty much matches our current policy on all coverage's but it is enough lower that it need to be considered. Don't think we have had a claim in 30 years. Anybody have any experiences with the Hartford/AARP insurance? Thanks,Marty From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Sun Jul 31 09:24:16 2011 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 08:24:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Head Repair Message-ID: <000301cc4f95$e9902080$bcb06180$@rr.com> http://tinyurl.com/3q4xxnd This is the area around the high port head that has broken off around the manifold mounting stud. What are my options? Johnnie From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jul 31 12:52:38 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 13:52:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Car Insurance In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9B603797-FBDE-4C6F-B461-274366C3DE3C@flash.net> I have had my home and auto policies with them for about five years. Rates are competitive, the people are always friendly and very helpful. The only claim experience was a chip repair on the windshield, no problems at all. For your LBC, they only do stated value and not agreed value which could be a challenge should you have a total loss. NFI, Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Jul 30, 2011, at 9:23 PM, marty sukey wrote: > I guess its kind of Triumph related as they are sometimes parked next to them > in the garage. We recently got a car insurance quote from Hartford/AARP for > the daily drivers. Pretty much matches our current policy on all coverage's > but it is enough lower that it need to be considered. Don't think we have had > a claim in 30 years. Anybody have any experiences with the Hartford/AARP > insurance? Thanks,Marty > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Sun Jul 31 13:00:36 2011 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 12:00:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] broken TR-4 head References: Message-ID: It looks like there is still plenty of threaded hole left. The area around the intake port does not get very hot. coat a stud with a light coat of grease, screw it into place. Fill the broken area with JB Weld or another good steel epoxy filler. Let the epoxy harden, then remove the stud and carefully file the surface flat. That should make it serviceable. Greg Solow From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Sun Jul 31 14:07:07 2011 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 16:07:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Odd overdrive behaviour Message-ID: <4E35B5EB.6080003@cogeco.ca> The last couple of drives the first time I engage overdrive it works like a charm, but if I disengage it (be it 5 minutes or 25 minutes later) it won't reengage. If I stop, even for only 5 minutes it's fine, but again, only once. The gearbox oil was a bit low so I topped it up and that didn't change it. I'm not stopping long enough for it to cool down so it's not likely heat. If I drive without it for a while then try it doesn't engage so it's not like the solenoid is heating/cooling. What do you think solenoid or internals? I'm going to check the filter screen and re-top it up because it's been awhile since I've had warm 30weight running down my arm.