From mgodley at tiac.net  Sun Jan  2 10:08:57 2011
From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley)
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2011 12:08:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR driveshaft U-joints
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1293908402.14550.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1293908402.14550.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AD143BD91582444686BEA96551F3B2BE@MichaelPC>


Gary, Add me to the list of those recommending the approach of taking the
driveshaft to a "driveline" shop.  Turned out my driveshaft was not
straight, and needed to be balanced.  They installed the u joints,
straightened and balanced the shaft for $80.  This after I spend at least an
entire day trying all the other methods you have done thus far with similar
results.  
Best result of this approach was noticeably less vibration.  And the
u-joints you want are on sale at TRF this week. 
 
Michael Godley
65TR4A
mgodley at tiac.net
___________________
"The charm of fishing is it is the pursuit of what is elusive, but
attainable,a perpetual series of occasions for hope."
*****************************


From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sun Jan  2 13:20:19 2011
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2011 15:20:19 EST
Subject: [TR] Stainless Brake Pipes
Message-ID: <6cec.5fdfff35.3a523803@aol.com>

Last week I called my favorite supplier of stainless brake pipes to order a 
set for the project TR4A. Much to my dismay, the price has gone from $199. 
to $398. per set.   And the small pipes at the front brake calipers, have 
gone from $30. each to $50. each.   Wow! $500.!

While I always thought of stainless pipes as an excellent upgrade for a 
restoration, and have been using them myself, the price increase has really put 
me off.   It's very difficult talking the owner into that much expense.   
Are there other suppliers of SS pipes with more reasonable prices?   
George Haynes

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sun Jan  2 16:07:36 2011
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2011 23:07:36 -0000
Subject: [TR] Stainless Brake Pipes
In-Reply-To: <6cec.5fdfff35.3a523803@aol.com>
References: <6cec.5fdfff35.3a523803@aol.com>
Message-ID: <207E3B42FEE04D7B8010FCBE17FB95B6@AdrianPC>

Why insist on stainless steel? There are alternatives to mild steel. I do 
believe that copper brake pipes are illegal in the US but cupro nickel 
(Kunifer) would be a useful option to SS.
Cupro nickel tubing is something I have always used on all my cars for 40 
years or more including competition cars. There is always something 
satisfying about flaring ones own brake pipe ends and running the pipes 
wherever.

Adrian
TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2011 8:20 PM
Subject: [TR] Stainless Brake Pipes


> Last week I called my favorite supplier of stainless brake pipes to order 
> a
> set for the project TR4A. Much to my dismay, the price has gone from $199.
> to $398. per set.   And the small pipes at the front brake calipers, have
> gone from $30. each to $50. each.   Wow! $500.!
>
> While I always thought of stainless pipes as an excellent upgrade for a
> restoration, and have been using them myself, the price increase has 
> really put
> me off.   It's very difficult talking the owner into that much expense.
> Are there other suppliers of SS pipes with more reasonable prices?
> George Haynes
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
> 


From dlylis at gmail.com  Sun Jan  2 18:50:54 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 01:50:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR vent tube
Message-ID: <1791019714-1294019455-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-676274787-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

The vent tube has started leaking oil at the joint between the tube and the block. It is not an occasional drip rather, it answers the question as to why people use their washers when following me. 

I have removed it, coated it with Permatex gasket silicone and replaced it allowing a bead to form as it slipped in. I levered it home with a wood lever but frankly have little confidence that this is anything permanent. 

Any comments?
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jan  3 07:26:53 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 09:26:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Clutch Fluid
In-Reply-To: <92CD6D0A8C5C4BFFBBE12AD5AC73F282@Dell320>
References: <92CD6D0A8C5C4BFFBBE12AD5AC73F282@Dell320>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1101030926140.15927@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 3 Jan 2011, Stuart Thompson wrote:

> I was out driving my 74 TR6 over the weekend.
> When I returned I noticed fluid all over my left boot.
> It was clutch fluid so something is failing. Any ideas?

Then answer is self-evident.

Rebuild your clutch master.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Jan  3 08:50:37 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 15:50:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 ring gear
Message-ID: <2143317448.703509.1294069837262.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



List, 



I have a new flywheel ring gear for a TR6 and forgot to take note of which way the beveled edge faced when I removed the old one. 



So, which way should the beveled edge of the TR6 ring gear face?? In, toward the front or out, toward the rear? 



Thanks, 



Ed Woods 

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jan  3 10:59:50 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 17:59:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 ring gear
In-Reply-To: <2143317448.703509.1294069837262.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1454253620.637221.1294077590834.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: fogbro1 at comcast.net
 
> I have a new flywheel ring gear for a TR6 and forgot to take note of
> which way the beveled edge faced when I removed the old one.
> 
> So, which way should the beveled edge of the TR6 ring gear face?  In,
> toward the front or out, toward the rear?

I would think that on most any car, the bevels would be on the side from which the starter pinion gear approaches.  I don't know what their purpose would be on the other side.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jan  3 14:53:36 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 13:53:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 ring gear
In-Reply-To: <1454253620.637221.1294077590834.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2143317448.703509.1294069837262.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1454253620.637221.1294077590834.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <007601cbab90$ad624510$0826cf30$@rr.com>

> I would think that on most any car, the bevels would be on the side
> from which the starter pinion gear approaches.  I don't know what their
> purpose would be on the other side.

However, Triumph seems to have assembled a goodly number of TR6 the other
way around.  Apparently the bevels are less important when using a
"pre-engaged" type starter, as they seem to have worked fine for many years
that way.

However, I agree with Phil, I'd install it with the bevels towards the
starter pinion.

-- Randall 


From agraham at execulink.com  Mon Jan  3 16:41:37 2011
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2011 18:41:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank alignment?
Message-ID: <4D225EB1.7040402@execulink.com>

Hello List and Happy New Year to all:
Just finished installing the gas tank in my TR2 project and noticed that 
when the straps are on the tank and all 4 bolts tightened, the filler 
neck and tank spigot are out of line. There is a noticeable "kink" in 
the rubber sleeve connecting the two. Is this OK?
If I slacken the front (longer) bolts, the necks come into alignment, 
but it doesn't seem right to have exposed threads. I have used 1/4" 
closed cell foam pads under the tank (lower and upper mounting surfaces).
Not sure if more foam should be used under the front of the tank or is 
the misalignment of the tank and filler taken up by the rubber sleeve?
Thanks for any help and insight into this.
Angelo Graham


From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Jan  3 17:28:58 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 19:28:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank alignment?
In-Reply-To: <4D225EB1.7040402@execulink.com>
References: <4D225EB1.7040402@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <A20B6AD285D241D2A0072CBDE1EC59A1@DCH6RFC1>

I had to use shims in both TR3s I restored - I wouldn't think it acceptable
to have the kink you describe.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2011 6:42 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank alignment?

Hello List and Happy New Year to all:
Just finished installing the gas tank in my TR2 project and noticed that 
when the straps are on the tank and all 4 bolts tightened, the filler 
neck and tank spigot are out of line. There is a noticeable "kink" in 
the rubber sleeve connecting the two. Is this OK?
If I slacken the front (longer) bolts, the necks come into alignment, 
but it doesn't seem right to have exposed threads. I have used 1/4" 
closed cell foam pads under the tank (lower and upper mounting surfaces).
Not sure if more foam should be used under the front of the tank or is 
the misalignment of the tank and filler taken up by the rubber sleeve?
Thanks for any help and insight into this.
Angelo Graham

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net



From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jan  3 17:40:12 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 16:40:12 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank alignment?
In-Reply-To: <4D225EB1.7040402@execulink.com>
References: <4D225EB1.7040402@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <00bb01cbaba7$f30aa3c0$d91feb40$@rr.com>

My TR3 has a little bit of a kink in that line too (perhaps 1/4").  But I
believe it would be better to get it to line up, by adding more thickness to
the mounts if necessary.  (I'll do that, if I ever take the tank out.)

As long as the tank is held firmly (don't forget it weighs close to 100
pounds with a full load of fuel), I don't see any problem with exposed
threads on those bolts.

-- Randall 



From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jan  3 18:03:37 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 17:03:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR vent tube
In-Reply-To: <1791019714-1294019455-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-676274787-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1791019714-1294019455-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-676274787-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <00bf01cbabab$390aaf70$ab200e50$@rr.com>

> The vent tube has started leaking oil at the joint between the tube and
> the block. It is not an occasional drip rather, it answers the question
> as to why people use their washers when following me.

This seems strange to me.  Are you sure the tube hasn't gotten blocked
somehow?  Or could you have a broken ring?  Any chance something else in the
area is leaking and it just looks like the tube (like maybe the oil pressure
line) ?

Even with the tube fairly loose in the block, I wouldn't expect much oil to
leak there.  As long as the tube is open, there shouldn't be any pressure
against that joint.

I assume the little link that holds the tube in place is present and
accounted for (ie tight on both sides).  If so, I don't see any reason for
the silicone to fail.

-- Randall 


From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Jan  3 21:10:32 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 22:10:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  TR6 ring gear
In-Reply-To: <007601cbab90$ad624510$0826cf30$@rr.com>
References: <2143317448.703509.1294069837262.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1454253620.637221.1294077590834.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<007601cbab90$ad624510$0826cf30$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4398B979813F4B1ABB3A0C7B0189529E@ranteer.local>

?if you get it wrong over time the starter will push the ring gear out and will no longer engage.

ask me how I know . . .

From: Randall 
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2011 3:53 PM
Cc: 'triumph list' 
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [TR] TR6 ring gear

> I would think that on most any car, the bevels would be on the side
> from which the starter pinion gear approaches.  I don't know what their
> purpose would be on the other side.

However, Triumph seems to have assembled a goodly number of TR6 the other
way around.  Apparently the bevels are less important when using a
"pre-engaged" type starter, as they seem to have worked fine for many years
that way.

However, I agree with Phil, I'd install it with the bevels towards the
starter pinion.

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Jan  3 21:39:33 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 04:39:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 ring gear
In-Reply-To: <007601cbab90$ad624510$0826cf30$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <64859948.752820.1294115973204.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



Thank you all. 



Ed 

From etd at psu.edu  Tue Jan  4 07:24:58 2011
From: etd at psu.edu (Edward Dressler)
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2011 09:24:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 tire sizes
Message-ID: <4D232DBA.9080200@psu.edu>

I am restoring a '63 TR4 and am about to purchase a set of minilite 
style wheels from V.B.  I am considering 205/70R 15 tires.  Will there 
be a clearance problem?  Also, wanted to see if anyone has purchased the 
V.B. front bonnet badge.  It is so much cheaper than the Moss badge, 
$49.95 vs $169.95!  Anyone have any experience with the V.B. medallion?
Ed D.  DVT

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Jan  4 15:50:11 2011
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 16:50:11 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR (Two Ronnies) Humor
Message-ID: <60576D9D3D4546B5B78925FA9D435DFC@trigeni.com>

Unfortunately, one of the Ronnies died so only one is left, but he is just 
as hilarious as the pair of them.  This is a classic:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAG39jKi0lI&feature=channel

Michael Marr
1960 TR3A
Plainfield, IL 


From rbtr3a at cox.net  Tue Jan  4 17:31:19 2011
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 00:31:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] Plastic lens inside
Message-ID: <1014896633-1294187422-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141260010-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Of instrument gages on a TR3. Today I installed new bulbs in the gage cluster and noticed that the Plastic lens inside a couple of the gages has dried out and deteriorated away. Has anyone found a good replacement for this lens?  

Ronnie
Sent from my BlackBerry? smartphone with SprintSpeed

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jan  4 18:54:32 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 17:54:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] Plastic lens inside
In-Reply-To: <1014896633-1294187422-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141260010-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1014896633-1294187422-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141260010-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <01f801cbac7b$7f5876d0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Has 
> anyone found a good replacement for this lens?  

The sparkling water I buy comes in plastic bottles with straight sides and
rather heavier plastic than the usual drinking water.  I cut a section of
that, which seems to be working well.

Probably there is some soft drink that comes in a similar bottle.

-- Randall  


From miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jan  4 19:40:54 2011
From: miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net (Miscuse1)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 21:40:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Plastic lens inside
In-Reply-To: <01f801cbac7b$7f5876d0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <1014896633-1294187422-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141260010-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<01f801cbac7b$7f5876d0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <001c01cbac81$fa1d1640$ee5742c0$@net>

Pete at Nisonger told me that the bulbs generate a lot of heat. The original
plastic windows withstand that heat. He also said OEM windows are not made
any more. So what to do? OEM yellowed, opaque or such as a clear, plastic
bottle or other? Perhaps a gentle cleaning with plastic polish? I take it
you have not had any issues with melting, warping (lets dust in any gaps) or
that slight smell of plastic getting overly hot? BTW, Nisonger did a
fantastic job repairing and rescreening my gauges. Highly recommended!!

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 8:55 PM
To: rbtr3a at cox.net; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] Plastic lens inside

> Has 
> anyone found a good replacement for this lens?  

The sparkling water I buy comes in plastic bottles with straight sides and
rather heavier plastic than the usual drinking water.  I cut a section of
that, which seems to be working well.

Probably there is some soft drink that comes in a similar bottle.

-- Randall  

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net


From rbtr3a at cox.net  Tue Jan  4 19:52:15 2011
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 02:52:15 +0000
Subject: [TR] Plastic lens inside
In-Reply-To: <001c01cbac81$fa1d1640$ee5742c0$@net>
References: <1014896633-1294187422-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141260010-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<01f801cbac7b$7f5876d0$0301a8c0@randall>,
	<001c01cbac81$fa1d1640$ee5742c0$@net>
Message-ID: <BAY131-W930D9500FE4992B0938A38B090@phx.gbl>


did he tell you what the reccommended?
 
> From: miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net
> To: TR3driver at ca.rr.com; rbtr3a at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [TR] Plastic lens inside
> Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 21:40:54 -0500
> 
> Pete at Nisonger told me that the bulbs generate a lot of heat. The original
> plastic windows withstand that heat. He also said OEM windows are not made
> any more. So what to do? OEM yellowed, opaque or such as a clear, plastic
> bottle or other? Perhaps a gentle cleaning with plastic polish? I take it
> you have not had any issues with melting, warping (lets dust in any gaps) or
> that slight smell of plastic getting overly hot? BTW, Nisonger did a
> fantastic job repairing and rescreening my gauges. Highly recommended!!
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 8:55 PM
> To: rbtr3a at cox.net; 'Triumphs'
> Subject: Re: [TR] Plastic lens inside
> 
> > Has 
> > anyone found a good replacement for this lens? 
> 
> The sparkling water I buy comes in plastic bottles with straight sides and
> rather heavier plastic than the usual drinking water. I cut a section of
> that, which seems to be working well.
> 
> Probably there is some soft drink that comes in a similar bottle.
> 
> -- Randall 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net
> 
 		 	   		  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jan  4 20:04:57 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 19:04:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] Plastic lens inside
In-Reply-To: <001c01cbac81$fa1d1640$ee5742c0$@net>
References: <1014896633-1294187422-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141260010-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<01f801cbac7b$7f5876d0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<001c01cbac81$fa1d1640$ee5742c0$@net>
Message-ID: <020801cbac85$55b03430$0301a8c0@randall>

> I take it
> you have not had any issues with melting, warping (lets dust 
> in any gaps) or
> that slight smell of plastic getting overly hot?

Not as yet, anyway.  But I've only driven a few hours at a stretch with the
dash lights on; it's possible that a longer night run would cause problems.

The bottle in my hand is marked PETE, which according to Wiki
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_terephthalate
melts at 260C (or 500F).  I kind of doubt the windows get that hot, but I
suppose it is possible.

-- Randall  


From dennis_reese at frontier.com  Tue Jan  4 23:35:47 2011
From: dennis_reese at frontier.com (Dennis Reese)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 22:35:47 -0800
Subject: [TR] Free to Good Home!
Message-ID: <FCA010A3-0E88-4119-830D-18F9539CFB35@frontier.com>

My TR 4 is long gone but it left behind some parts! I recently discovered a brand new air deflector (Roadster Factory # 850435) lurking in my cache of VW and Spitfire stuff. If any of you can find a place for it, you may have it. Provided, of course, that you pay the shipping cost. It needs a car!

Dennis Reese	


From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Jan  5 04:29:56 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 11:29:56 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR (Two Ronnies) Humor
In-Reply-To: <60576D9D3D4546B5B78925FA9D435DFC@trigeni.com>
References: <60576D9D3D4546B5B78925FA9D435DFC@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <395281.61175.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

A great sketch but it looks as though its loosely based on the Two Ronnies 
absolutely classic sketch called "Fork Handles." That's on YouTube as well but I 
seem unable to copy/paste the URL.

Jonmac




________________________________
From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
To: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>; ISOA List <isoa at googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tue, 4 January, 2011 22:50:11
Subject: [TR] TR (Two Ronnies) Humor

Unfortunately, one of the Ronnies died so only one is left, but he is just as 
hilarious as the pair of them.? This is a classic:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAG39jKi0lI&feature=channel

Michael Marr
1960 TR3A
Plainfield, IL 
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk


      

From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com  Wed Jan  5 07:40:07 2011
From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 06:40:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR (Two Ronnies) Humor
In-Reply-To: <395281.61175.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <60576D9D3D4546B5B78925FA9D435DFC@trigeni.com>
	<395281.61175.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <470871.15495.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Fork Handles

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cz2-ukrd2VQ



----- Original Message ----
From: John Macartney <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
To: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>; Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
ISOA List <isoa at googlegroups.com>
Sent: Wed, 5 January, 2011 11:29:56
Subject: Re: [TR] TR (Two Ronnies) Humor

A great sketch but it looks as though its loosely based on the Two Ronnies 
absolutely classic sketch called "Fork Handles." That's on YouTube as well but I 

seem unable to copy/paste the URL.

Jonmac




________________________________
From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
To: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>; ISOA List <isoa at googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tue, 4 January, 2011 22:50:11
Subject: [TR] TR (Two Ronnies) Humor

Unfortunately, one of the Ronnies died so only one is left, but he is just as 
hilarious as the pair of them.? This is a classic:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAG39jKi0lI&feature=channel

Michael Marr
1960 TR3A
Plainfield, IL 
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk


? ? ? 
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
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From mmarr at notwires.com  Wed Jan  5 07:49:32 2011
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 08:49:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR (Two Ronnies) Humor
References: <60576D9D3D4546B5B78925FA9D435DFC@trigeni.com>
	<395281.61175.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0644F5A39CF245E39100C7A26E3FCA76@trigeni.com>

Here you go:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cz2-ukrd2VQ

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: John Macartney 
  To: Michael Marr ; Triumphs List ; ISOA List 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2011 5:29 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] TR (Two Ronnies) Humor


  A great sketch but it looks as though its loosely based on the Two Ronnies absolutely classic sketch called "Fork Handles." That's on YouTube as well but I seem unable to copy/paste the URL.

  Jonmac



From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Wed Jan  5 11:37:24 2011
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 10:37:24 -0800
Subject: [TR] Plastic lens inside
In-Reply-To: <1014896633-1294187422-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141260010-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1014896633-1294187422-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141260010-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <454A9DDC-F988-43C7-AA03-4ADA8002E3C6@roadrunner.com>


On Jan 4, 2011, at 4:31 PM, rbtr3a at cox.net wrote:

> .Of instrument gages on a TR3. Today I installed new bulbs in the  
> gage cluster and noticed that the Plastic lens inside a couple of  
> the gages has dried out-----

Plastic Lenses? My 1961 TR3A instruments have all glass lenses (?) Was  
that a different phase?


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jan  5 12:20:36 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 11:20:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] Plastic lens inside
In-Reply-To: <454A9DDC-F988-43C7-AA03-4ADA8002E3C6@roadrunner.com>
References: <1014896633-1294187422-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141260010-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<454A9DDC-F988-43C7-AA03-4ADA8002E3C6@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <008001cbad0d$a1857810$0301a8c0@randall>

> Plastic Lenses? My 1961 TR3A instruments have all glass 
> lenses (?) Was  
> that a different phase?

We're talking about the little windows on the side of the gauge, that let in
the light from the panel light bulbs.  They were always plastic.

-- Randall  


From rbtr3a at cox.net  Wed Jan  5 12:24:54 2011
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 19:24:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] Plastic lens inside
In-Reply-To: <454A9DDC-F988-43C7-AA03-4ADA8002E3C6@roadrunner.com>
References: <1014896633-1294187422-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141260010-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><454A9DDC-F988-43C7-AA03-4ADA8002E3C6@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <1984374100-1294255569-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1628737198-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Hans. I was referring to the plastic lens that surrounds the lens.  It allows the light to pass through while keeping the gage clean.  I was not referring to the front glass lens. 
Sent from my BlackBerry? smartphone with SprintSpeed

-----Original Message-----
From: Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 10:37:24 
To: <rbtr3a at cox.net>
Cc: Triumphs<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Plastic lens inside


On Jan 4, 2011, at 4:31 PM, rbtr3a at cox.net wrote:

> .Of instrument gages on a TR3. Today I installed new bulbs in the  
> gage cluster and noticed that the Plastic lens inside a couple of  
> the gages has dried out-----

Plastic Lenses? My 1961 TR3A instruments have all glass lenses (?) Was  
that a different phase?



From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Wed Jan  5 14:11:17 2011
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 13:11:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] Plastic lens inside
In-Reply-To: <008001cbad0d$a1857810$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <1014896633-1294187422-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141260010-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<454A9DDC-F988-43C7-AA03-4ADA8002E3C6@roadrunner.com>
	<008001cbad0d$a1857810$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <98C098C2-80E9-4A2E-86BD-40A7810C3F2D@roadrunner.com>

OK (dahh)  I  used clear plastic , but plastic water bottle side seems  
an excellent idea  ---  shouldn't it be a translucent blue?
On Jan 5, 2011, at 11:20 AM, Randall wrote:

>> Plastic Lenses? My 1961 TR3A instruments have all glass
>> lenses (?) Was
>> that a different phase?
>
> We're talking about the little windows on the side of the gauge,  
> that let in
> the light from the panel light bulbs.  They were always plastic.
>
> -- Randall  
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com
>


From jdabars at att.net  Wed Jan  5 18:42:27 2011
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 17:42:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: Modified ????Tr 3A   What class  @TRA & VTR???
Message-ID: <437186.17853.qm@web83704.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Subject: Fw: Modified ????Tr 3A



Subject: Modified ????Tr 3A


Click on this
?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3f9QIalMoIM&feature=related 

From darrellw at ipns.com  Wed Jan  5 21:08:19 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 20:08:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] exhaust temps
Message-ID: <14C3BF00-DDB1-4DE6-A40D-1D8CE1DABA83@ipns.com>


I've purchased a wide-band O2 sensor to install in my car.  They say that the sensor shouldn't see an exhaust temp over 1300 F, and that the housing shouldn't get over 900 F.  But I have no idea what my temps are, and if those temps are high or low.  Has anyone ever measured these temps on a 4 cyl TR, or have any other reference point to know if I should really worry?  I'm also going to be installing a supercharger (the reason I really want to monitor the mixture), so I don't know if that will have a significant effect on the temps.  I want to install the sensor right after the collector in the header.

BTW, this is the system I'm installing:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/g5_gauge.php

-Darrell
-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From j.honor at comcast.net  Thu Jan  6 08:37:33 2011
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2011 09:37:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] exhaust temps
In-Reply-To: <14C3BF00-DDB1-4DE6-A40D-1D8CE1DABA83@ipns.com>
References: <14C3BF00-DDB1-4DE6-A40D-1D8CE1DABA83@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <80B872DB-B7E7-4D02-A4E8-A6C68D90E81A@comcast.net>

I suspect that Moss who sells both O2 meters and SCs would be able to apprise you what is typical on temp etc Regards Joe 

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 5, 2011, at 10:08 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw at ipns.com> wrote:

> 
> I've purchased a wide-band O2 sensor to install in my car.  They say that the sensor shouldn't see an exhaust temp over 1300 F, and that the housing shouldn't get over 900 F.  But I have no idea what my temps are, and if those temps are high or low.  Has anyone ever measured these temps on a 4 cyl TR, or have any other reference point to know if I should really worry?  I'm also going to be installing a supercharger (the reason I really want to monitor the mixture), so I don't know if that will have a significant effect on the temps.  I want to install the sensor right after the collector in the header.
> 
> BTW, this is the system I'm installing:
> 
> http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/g5_gauge.php
> 
> -Darrell
> -- 
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
> Vancouver, WA, USA
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/j.honor at comcast.net
> 

From dlylis at gmail.com  Thu Jan  6 16:46:27 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2011 23:46:27 +0000
Subject: [TR] Oil leak
Message-ID: <1808694649-1294357586-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1531274170-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Has anyone in TR land had a cam shaft plug fail?

I posted about my vent tube last week and that is now dry as a bone but the drip persists. 

I can see my 'modern rear main' and it and the flywheel appear dry. I cannot see the cam plug but eliminated that as the ring gear shows no sign of oil and it passes right over the top of the plug. 

Is that a fair assumption or not?

TIA
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Fri Jan  7 09:36:15 2011
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 10:36:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] New TR3 rear oil seal
Message-ID: <850DACE6-28E7-490C-A8B6-D91ECCE3D851@ties2.net>

Does any know if the directions for installation of the newly re- 
designed rear oil seal for the TR3 engine are available for download?

From gdewine at aol.com  Fri Jan  7 10:42:16 2011
From: gdewine at aol.com (gdewine at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2011 12:42:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tire and Wheel Recommendation for 1961 TR3A
Message-ID: <8CD7CA95BCC43BA-103C-DD40@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>


 I am ready to make my TR3A into a daily driver. To do this I need to purchase a new set of tires. Also I am considering purchasing after market wheels to give the car a new look. 
What recommendations and observations can you make? My budget is not unlimited but I can see spending around a $1,000 (likely more). One recommendation was to purchase a tire made by Yokahoma which has a retro look and profile. My mechanic could not give me a spec on the tire.... I do not want a tire that looks too large....

Leads on a supplier and tire sizing would be appreciated.

Gary 
Cleveland, Ohio

1961 TR3A
1980 TR7

 



From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Jan  7 11:50:01 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 11:50:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tire and Wheel Recommendation for 1961 TR3A
In-Reply-To: <8CD7CA95BCC43BA-103C-DD40@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CD7CA95BCC43BA-103C-DD40@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0C5E4FCF71D042BB867B76F9E2C71B5B@bboffice>

I bought the Nankang 165/R 15, they were very reasonably priced and the
tread pattern looks much like the OEM Michelins.  I put 2,000 miles on them
so far with no problems.

Can't help you much with wheels for a daily driver, I am running 60-spoke
wires that are currently in need of replacing.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gdewine at aol.com
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 10:42 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tire and Wheel Recommendation for 1961 TR3A


 I am ready to make my TR3A into a daily driver. To do this I need to
purchase a new set of tires. Also I am considering purchasing after market
wheels to give the car a new look. 
What recommendations and observations can you make? My budget is not
unlimited but I can see spending around a $1,000 (likely more). One
recommendation was to purchase a tire made by Yokahoma which has a retro
look and profile. My mechanic could not give me a spec on the tire.... I do
not want a tire that looks too large....

Leads on a supplier and tire sizing would be appreciated.

Gary
Cleveland, Ohio

1961 TR3A
1980 TR7

 


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Fri Jan  7 12:00:52 2011
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 13:00:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] New TR3 rear oil seal
In-Reply-To: <850DACE6-28E7-490C-A8B6-D91ECCE3D851@ties2.net>
References: <850DACE6-28E7-490C-A8B6-D91ECCE3D851@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w1382B84165272645286D7B90B0@phx.gbl>


Not sure if this link will make the mail list, but Christian Marx designed the new seal.  Here is a link to his website with the install instructions:
 
http://www.tr4-racing.de/download/splitseal.pdf
 
Regards,
Randy
64 TR4
59 TR3A (with engine and new seal - not yet started)
 
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> From: jdemuth at ties2.net
> Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 10:36:15 -0600
> Subject: [TR] New TR3 rear oil seal
> 
> Does any know if the directions for installation of the newly re- 
> designed rear oil seal for the TR3 engine are available for download?
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com
> 
 		 	   		  

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Jan  7 12:32:17 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2011 13:32:17 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Tire and Wheel Recommendation for 1961 TR3A
Message-ID: <1381874662.35759.1294428737670.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

I personally like the look of the minilite style (bolt or knock-off) by K&N available from Moss & TRF (about $200 each for the bolt-on).   TRF (listed for TR6) no longer has the nuts for them - so Moss may be a better choice as they are available there.  Although I put the 165SR15 on them they can accommodate larger/lower profile tires.  You can't go too large as the front will rub on sharp turns.  195's probably as large as you can go.  I have no real knowledge of the tires currently available. 
Moss: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=71981
TRF: http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/133.php?s_wt=1152&s_ht=864
 
Victoria British may also have them.  

Jan 7, 2011 06:33:10 PM, gdewine at aol.com wrote:


I am ready to make my TR3A into a daily driver. To do this I need to purchase a new set of tires. Also I am considering purchasing after market wheels to give the car a new look. 
What recommendations and observations can you make? My budget is not unlimited but I can see spending around a $1,000 (likely more). One recommendation was to purchase a tire made by Yokahoma which has a retro look and profile. My mechanic could not give me a spec on the tire.... I do not want a tire that looks too large....

Leads on a supplier and tire sizing would be appreciated.

Gary 
Cleveland, Ohio

1961 TR3A
1980 TR7




_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jan  7 13:58:59 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 13:58:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tire and Wheel Recommendation for 1961 TR3A
In-Reply-To: <8CD7CA95BCC43BA-103C-DD40@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CD7CA95BCC43BA-103C-DD40@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikr985zfbSHer9YrC2kM57Uk5FrNGvR7RSA=icW@mail.gmail.com>

On 1/7/11, gdewine at aol.com <gdewine at aol.com> wrote:
>
> I am considering purchasing after market wheels to give the car a new look.

A new look can mean many things but since it is a TR3A I'll assume you
mean 'different' and not 'modern'.

If you have steel wheels now you have many options and what you choose
will suggest the tire size you need.

I have several sets of wheels which I switch around from time to time,
so I have steel, alloy & wires (using a .25" spacer).

The stock disc and wire wheels have 165x15s on them though I have seen
much wider mounted.  Vredesteins are popular, Nexens and Kuhmos are
less expensive and still deliver suitable driving.

The alloys are wider and have the 195/65 Bridgestone Potenzas which
give improved handling (though I drove for so many years on skinny
tires I still like the 'personality' one gets when cornering in
165x15s).

> Leads on a supplier and tire sizing would be appreciated.

Internet sources include these guys from whom I have purchased 3 sets
so far and been quite satisfied.

http://www.tireeasy.com/

If you don't care for the idea of buying tires online you might find
that printing off the page from a low-price site will get a discount
tire store to match the price (plus mounting & balancing).  That keeps
the $$ more local and may leave you with better recourse should a
problem occur.

From dkspence at telus.net  Fri Jan  7 14:03:19 2011
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 14:03:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Miata seats
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1294426801.9665.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1294426801.9665.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6A55C9C4-E683-460E-8488-8D1D22981CD3@telus.net>

Can anyone who has installed Miata seats please contact me. I am  
contemplating doing so and need info as to which models fit, sources  
of replacement seat covers, etc.
   Also, Uncle Jack developed a seat rail set for this conversion.  
Anyone know if these are still available?
   Many thanks
  Don



From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jan  7 14:26:48 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 14:26:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tire and Wheel Recommendation for 1961 TR3A
In-Reply-To: <8CD7CA95BCC43BA-103C-DD40@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CD7CA95BCC43BA-103C-DD40@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin-mpUXxbXT624R=4XxdVnRixNJtNFMwvrrdt+T@mail.gmail.com>

You might also take a look here:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/734731/1/New_VTO15x6_in_for_the_Triumph

Geo

From dkspence at telus.net  Fri Jan  7 14:45:18 2011
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 14:45:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 1
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1293908402.14550.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1293908402.14550.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <80CB443A-8DF3-4655-9628-70E9CA425E81@telus.net>

Hi
  Going through my parts stash and came across a Lucas coil marked  
BFU  21449600     D5.

  Anyone know the proper application?

Don Spence
  67-TR4A sa
72-TR6

From j.honor at comcast.net  Fri Jan  7 14:56:06 2011
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 21:56:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Miata seats
In-Reply-To: <6A55C9C4-E683-460E-8488-8D1D22981CD3@telus.net>
Message-ID: <1970568726.916342.1294437366378.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I had installed thes eseats in my TR'74, with a set originaly made in the UK after those outlined in Roger Moor' book-all worked well. I did discover a US firm who planned to manufacture these. I'll search for this and send. I decided this time around with current TR6 to leave restuffed original seats alone as they're quite OK. regards, Joe 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Spence" <dkspence at telus.net> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, January 7, 2011 3:03:19 PM 
Subject: [TR] Miata seats 

Can anyone who has installed Miata seats please contact me. I am ? 
contemplating doing so and need info as to which models fit, sources ? 
of replacement seat covers, etc. 
?? Also, Uncle Jack developed a seat rail set for this conversion. ? 
Anyone know if these are still available? 
?? Many thanks 
??Don 


_______________________________________________ 
Triumphs at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation ?$11.47 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/j.honor at comcast.net 


From dkspence at telus.net  Fri Jan  7 14:59:07 2011
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 14:59:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Miata seats update
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1294426801.9665.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1294426801.9665.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B0A6B1DC-1EAD-4A06-AD60-94ECE899F460@telus.net>

This is for a TR4A-sa. Sorry about that...



From: "Don Spence" <dkspence at telus.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, January 7, 2011 3:03:19 PM
Subject: [TR] Miata seats

Can anyone who has installed Miata seats please contact me. I am
contemplating doing so and need info as to which models fit, sources
of replacement seat covers, etc.
    Also, Uncle Jack developed a seat rail set for this conversion.
Anyone know if these are still available?
    Many thanks
   Don


From j.honor at comcast.net  Fri Jan  7 14:59:51 2011
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 21:59:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Miata seats
In-Reply-To: <6A55C9C4-E683-460E-8488-8D1D22981CD3@telus.net>
Message-ID: <1367032495.916629.1294437591921.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Don, I located the lead for the miata seat rails kit. Joe Alexander at n1974tr4 at cs.com , he was working with Bob D. & Paul Rego to fabricate these. good luck and let us know. Regards, Joe 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Spence" <dkspence at telus.net> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, January 7, 2011 3:03:19 PM 
Subject: [TR] Miata seats 

Can anyone who has installed Miata seats please contact me. I am ? 
contemplating doing so and need info as to which models fit, sources ? 
of replacement seat covers, etc. 
?? Also, Uncle Jack developed a seat rail set for this conversion. ? 
Anyone know if these are still available? 
?? Many thanks 
??Don 


_______________________________________________ 
Triumphs at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation ?$11.47 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/j.honor at comcast.net 


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri Jan  7 15:18:24 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2011 17:18:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Miata seats
In-Reply-To: <6A55C9C4-E683-460E-8488-8D1D22981CD3@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1294426801.9665.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6A55C9C4-E683-460E-8488-8D1D22981CD3@telus.net>
Message-ID: <4D279130.90804@blacksburg.net>

On 1/7/2011 4:03 PM, Don Spence wrote:
> Can anyone who has installed Miata seats please contact me. I am 
> contemplating doing so and need info as to which models fit, sources 
> of replacement seat covers, etc.
>   Also, Uncle Jack developed a seat rail set for this conversion. 
> Anyone know if these are still available?
Contact Jack's son Tony at tony at tonydrews.com for the seat rail kit.

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go



From dkspence at telus.net  Fri Jan  7 16:01:43 2011
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 16:01:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] wheel bolt pattern/distance?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1294426801.9665.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1294426801.9665.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C452E084-B7C3-4888-8447-D0390015189A@telus.net>

What is the stud pattern (distance between stud centers) on TR4A?



From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jan  7 16:12:52 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 18:12:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Miata seats
In-Reply-To: <6A55C9C4-E683-460E-8488-8D1D22981CD3@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1294426801.9665.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6A55C9C4-E683-460E-8488-8D1D22981CD3@telus.net>
Message-ID: <C2A9EF5707CF4321AA9E615D60FB5E22@BobPC>

Don,
The seats up to 1999 should fit with no problem. Once you get to the newer 
seats, they get to wide in the shoulder area and interfere with the 
top...... at least on a TR6. The earlier ones also had a cutout in the 
headrest for speakers which is great for hearing the radio while driving :-)

I recovered mine in leather from leatherseats.com. They usually have a 
monthly eBay auction for black leather to fit the early Miatas. Same covers 
that they sell in their store can be won on eBay at a major savings. It took 
me a few of their auctions to get them at the price I was willing to pay.

I made up my own mounting kit but I also worked with Joe Alexander to help 
him iron out the kinks in the original design.

You can see my whole installation/recovering process on my site at 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff &
CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Don Spence
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 4:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Miata seats

Can anyone who has installed Miata seats please contact me. I am
contemplating doing so and need info as to which models fit, sources
of replacement seat covers, etc.
   Also, Uncle Jack developed a seat rail set for this conversion.
Anyone know if these are still available?
   Many thanks
  Don


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Fri Jan  7 17:46:31 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 19:46:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Clutch Recommendations
Message-ID: <E8417B89F27946CE93664DFDCBFF997D@TRGUY>

Any recommendations on best clutch for TR4?  Borg & Beck or AP?
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jan  7 17:47:55 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 16:47:55 -0800
Subject: [TR] wheel bolt pattern/distance?
In-Reply-To: <C452E084-B7C3-4888-8447-D0390015189A@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1294426801.9665.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<C452E084-B7C3-4888-8447-D0390015189A@telus.net>
Message-ID: <039701cbaecd$b07c3590$0301a8c0@randall>

> What is the stud pattern (distance between stud centers) on TR4A?

4.5"

-- Randall  


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jan  7 18:42:01 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 20:42:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Miata seats
In-Reply-To: <4D279130.90804@blacksburg.net>
References: <mailman.2.1294426801.9665.triumphs@autox.team.net><6A55C9C4-E683-460E-8488-8D1D22981CD3@telus.net>
	<4D279130.90804@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <C52648FA2F7F4919A77A80507B6F5EFD@BobPC>

Actually, Tony has handed this project off to Joe Alexander and his son 
Sean. You can email Joe at n197tr4"at"cs.com Just remove the "at" and insert 
@


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff &
CVJs


-----Original Message----- 
From: J.C. Hassall
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 5:18 PM
To: Don Spence
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Miata seats

On 1/7/2011 4:03 PM, Don Spence wrote:
> Can anyone who has installed Miata seats please contact me. I am 
> contemplating doing so and need info as to which models fit, sources of 
> replacement seat covers, etc.
>   Also, Uncle Jack developed a seat rail set for this conversion. Anyone 
> know if these are still available?
Contact Jack's son Tony at tony at tonydrews.com for the seat rail kit.

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jan  7 18:44:46 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 17:44:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] Clutch Recommendations
In-Reply-To: <E8417B89F27946CE93664DFDCBFF997D@TRGUY>
References: <E8417B89F27946CE93664DFDCBFF997D@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <03a101cbaed5$a1e83d50$0301a8c0@randall>

> Any recommendations on best clutch for TR4?  Borg & Beck or AP?

AP bought B&B many years ago.  My choice would be to have your old clutch
relined/reconditioned.

Note please that the B&B clutch for the TR2-4 is an entirely different
animal than the B&B clutch for the TR4A-6 (that frequently gets vilified for
various reasons).

-- Randall  


From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Fri Jan  7 20:30:29 2011
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 19:30:29 -0800
Subject: [TR] Miata seats update
In-Reply-To: <B0A6B1DC-1EAD-4A06-AD60-94ECE899F460@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1294426801.9665.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<B0A6B1DC-1EAD-4A06-AD60-94ECE899F460@telus.net>
Message-ID: <003801cbaee4$6618d0f0$324a72d0$@rr.com>

Hi Don,

I have a '67 TR4A and have made the Miata conversion. I also got the install
kit from Uncle Jack a few weeks before his wreck.

My seats are from a 1993 Miata after having paid $125 to a LA junkyard for
the pair. They have the speakers in the headrests. In order to fit them I
used aluminum flat plate I got from Home Depot, cut and drilled to use the
original railing holes. $10 invested.

Then Uncle Jack created a bracket kit, and I bought one of the original sets
to try it out. More elegant than my sawed off aluminum, at least I thought
that. But, the brackets didn't fit. It turns out that the 4A rail pattern is
different than the '6 pattern and was about an inch or so off in the center.
So I went back to my original custom brackets. I emailed Tony my results,
but there was a lot going on after the wreck and maybe it got lost. Anyway,
if you search the archives you may find the thread.

I had the seats reupholstered using a Katzkin kit. Black leather with white
piping. I love the seats, and so does my wife. 

Johnnie


> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Spence
> Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 1:59 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Miata seats update
> 
> This is for a TR4A-sa. Sorry about that...
> 
> 
> 
> From: "Don Spence" <dkspence at telus.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, January 7, 2011 3:03:19 PM
> Subject: [TR] Miata seats
> 
> Can anyone who has installed Miata seats please contact me. I am
> contemplating doing so and need info as to which models fit, sources
> of replacement seat covers, etc.
>     Also, Uncle Jack developed a seat rail set for this conversion.
> Anyone know if these are still available?
>     Many thanks
>    Don
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdonnel1 at san.rr.com


From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Fri Jan  7 20:37:16 2011
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 19:37:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] New TR3 rear oil seal
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-w1382B84165272645286D7B90B0@phx.gbl>
References: <850DACE6-28E7-490C-A8B6-D91ECCE3D851@ties2.net>
	<BAY150-w1382B84165272645286D7B90B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003f01cbaee5$5936f9b0$0ba4ed10$@rr.com>

Get the recent copy of the VTR mag. It describes it in lots of detail.

Johnnie

> 
> Not sure if this link will make the mail list, but Christian Marx
> designed the new seal.  Here is a link to his website with the install
> instructions:
> 
> http://www.tr4-racing.de/download/splitseal.pdf
> 
> Regards,
> Randy
> 64 TR4
> 59 TR3A (with engine and new seal - not yet started)
> > Does any know if the directions for installation of the newly re-
> > designed rear oil seal for the TR3 engine are available for download?
> > _______________________________________________



From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jan  7 20:45:22 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2011 22:45:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Conversion Kit-----update UNCLE JACK'S DESIGN as
 produced by A.R.E.
Message-ID: <8CD7CFD9C69879E-CA0-48BF@webmail-d038.sysops.aol.com>


 
New PRODUCTION RUN of this kit PENDING at the end of the month.................................................

We supported the production of Uncle Jack's original conversion design and helped with marketing. We ran a couple of production lots for Uncle Jack and he distributed.

Following Jack's passing, son Tony handed off the entire project to us.

The we produced a couple of production runs....Bob Danielson and Paul Rego pointed out a few things about the kit when we sent them samples of the kit.  Great guys to work with, especially when we had no experience with the original design and an actual installation

Over a period of time I acquired MIATA seats and pieces to evaluate the design. Finally, we held a design review with all of the pieces in place. We discovered what we think is an error in measurement leading to difficulty in installation, as we had been advised.

The offending part has been redesigned and a new production run has been scheduled for the end of the month. So we are running about 25 more kits and have a backlog of about 12 orders. If you want a kit, please send me your interest and I put you on the list and I will pass it to Sean. 

We would produce 50 kits, but we may see opportunities for further improvements and perhaps commonalities leading to a kit for the TR4A and TR4......GETTING TIME to do the ultimate kit is difficult, but we would like to work at.

Thanks to some mentoring by BOB and PAUL, along with some patience, we have an improved kit with the possibility of further progress.

The feedback we get on the installation and use of the Miata seats is very positive  and makes this a very worthwhile and satisfying project

Joe Alexander     n197tr4 at cs.com
Sean Alexander

 



From dennis_reese at frontier.com  Fri Jan  7 20:57:51 2011
From: dennis_reese at frontier.com (Dennis Reese)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 19:57:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Air Deflector/Free
Message-ID: <6C844382-A632-477D-A976-45C1C7B2A381@frontier.com>

Several people responded but unfortunately I only had one of them so, I sent it to the first person who answered my email.

Thanks to all of you who expressed an interest!

Dennis Reese


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jan  7 21:14:02 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2011 23:14:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] MAD MARX SEAL CONVERSION another A.R.E. UPDATE SCROLL SEAL by
 Christian Marx
Message-ID: <8CD7D019DC06A5A-CA0-4BD9@webmail-d038.sysops.aol.com>


 
Noting the thread on the new VITON SEAL DESIGN

Here's a design worthy of support.   Christian is part of our racing fraternity and spent the time necessary to develop this new VITON SEAL.  In addition to time, it required investment in tooling.

With marketing in both Europe and North America the volume is coming up.

I offered to support the project here in North America....thus Christian and I studied the dimensions of the oem seal and the conversion and came up with new centering tool design.  The tool works with both the OEM and the VITON design and is priced low.

I have more stock of the VITON SEAL coming from Chris around the first of February for distribution.

I just produced another 100 centering tools and they are available NOW.

I just produced another 10 modified OEM scrolls on my holding fixture and have more cores forthcoming.

I have installation instructions on my computer and routinely send with the sale of a kit.

If you are a member of VTR, you will have received ISSUE 123 which is very comprehensive in detailing the installation of the seal.

The new design is also nicely covered in Kas' new book.....KAS KASTNER'S TRIUMPHS.  It shows the new centering tool and features pointers on avoiding other potential leaker areas....this book is a must have.

If you want to get on the list for the next 10 VITON seal kits, send me a note     n197tr4 at cs.com

They are also being stocked by TRF and they will be receiving their stock of VITON SEALS, as well.

Regards,

Joe 



 



From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sat Jan  8 10:58:41 2011
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2011 12:58:41 EST
Subject: [TR] Miata seats
Message-ID: <1f436c.73b202f7.3a59ffd1@aol.com>

Don,
I have installed a pair of older Miata seats (with speakers in headrests) 
in my TR4A using Uncle Jack's seat track adaptors.   The track adaptors had 
to be used a bit differently than for a TR6, for which they were developed.   
I think son Tony and Joe Alexander may still offer the track adaptors.   
They cost   about $60.

Ironically, Uncle Jack sent me the adaptors, arriving on a Tuesday and two 
days later he died in the racing accident.   I feel kinda close to Jack even 
though I never actually met him.

I had my seats completely recovered in leather and cloth to match the rest 
of the interior.   They look great and have provided much-needed relief for 
my back and knees.   I guess the only issue is some loss of access to the 
rear seat, where we carry a lot of stuff while traveling.   The real problem 
there is the Surrey top rear backglass.   Nevertheless, the seats tip forward 
and are well worth the cost and effort for this old guy's achy body.   
You'll love them!
Good luck
George Haynes
PS:   I also installed a set of 2008 Miata seats in my 1963 Ford Econoline 
van, but that's another story.

From mntr3a at aol.com  Sat Jan  8 12:49:32 2011
From: mntr3a at aol.com (mntr3a at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2011 14:49:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Has anyone in TR land had a cam shaft plug fail?
Message-ID: <8CD7D844DD17328-1B78-E5C8@webmail-d098.sysops.aol.com>



Has anyone in TR land had a cam shaft plug fail?

I posted about my vent tube last week and that is now dry as a bone but the drip 
persists. 

I can see my 'modern rear main' and it and the flywheel appear dry. I cannot see 
the cam plug but eliminated that as the ring gear shows no sign of oil and it 
passes right over the top of the plug. 

Is that a fair assumption or not?

 I had the same problem on TR4 
1-remove fly-wheel
2-clean engine surface 
3-reinstall fly-wheel 
4-reinstall starter 
5-remove spark plugs
6- turn starter till oil pressure is up.(repeat till you find leak)

Patrick H 1963 TR4





From rcateb at comcast.net  Sun Jan  9 13:09:54 2011
From: rcateb at comcast.net (rcateb at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2011 20:09:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <1538883586.953555.1294603742628.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <722968934.953593.1294603794825.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



I am 3 days into restoring my 75 TR6 seats with new foam padding. 

I brought the foam padding set about 3 years ago and it was not a cheap date than 

having cost around $300.? Trying to keep costs at minimun I reused the original seat 

covers which has been a mistake as the aged bottom covers ripped when 

stretched back on and over the seat frame.? The bottom seat covers glue into and onto the 

foam so once on they will come off but your foam padding will be destroyed. 

If you are doing this project I would recommend you also invest in new seat 

covers for the additional $300-$400.? Or replace with Miatta seats which 

would probably be about half the cost of the TR foam pad set and covers. 

B 

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Jan  3 10:25:22 2011
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 10:25:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] new Triumph Book NFI just a FYI
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1293994801.16015.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1293994801.16015.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <24A32EF9-5B08-41CF-9AAA-346391E6C63C@telus.net>

Got the preview of the Oily Rag from the BSCCOC and Tony Fox's column  
had a notification of an book that might be of interest to the  
Triumphophiles that we have in the club.

I'm just going to paste what he wrote and that's all I know but it  
sounds like a good read.

Triumph & Tragedy
Many enthusiasts will recognize the name of Sir John Black, former  
CEO of The Standard Motor Company in Coventry and the man who rescued  
the Triumph name from oblivion in 1945. Sir John's younger son,  
Nicholas Black, has written a fascinating book about his father.
The book was launched just under two weeks ago at the British Classic  
Car Show in England and is being marketed (I believe exclusively?) by  
the Standard Motor Club in the UK and it is with the SMC that you  
will have to place your order. I offered the opportunity to Nick of  
notifying the many enthusiasts I know around the world who I felt  
would want to know of the book's existence and that's why I'm sending  
this email. That said, I can't notify everyone, so by all means re- 
post this info to any of your friends / club members / club  
newsletter editors and other email lists who you think might be  
interested in obtaining a copy.
So, a little about the book. It's about 140 pages, paperback and  
perfect bound. Best of all are the myriad photographs that come from  
Nick's family albums, though I was privileged to supply a few of my  
own. The book retails for GBP 15.00 with P&P an extra GBP5.00 on top  
for North America. Might be a teeny bit more for Oz and NZ. Roughly  
this total of GBP20.00 translates into around US$32.00 on current  
exchange rates. To order your copy, go to  
www.standardmotorclub.org.uk. On the club Home page, look on the  
right hand column for "LATEST NEWS" and scroll down to the entry  
dated Nov 14 and click on the chevrons which will take you to the  
book announcement page. I am assured the Club has a secure server to  
enable you to safely provide your CC or Debit card and snail details.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jan  9 15:11:34 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2011 17:11:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <722968934.953593.1294603794825.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <722968934.953593.1294603794825.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <201101091711.35072.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, January 09, 2011 03:09:54 pm rcateb at comcast.net wrote:
> I am 3 days into restoring my 75 TR6 seats with new foam padding.
> 
> I brought the foam padding set about 3 years ago and it was not a cheap
> date than
> 
> having cost around $300.  Trying to keep costs at minimun I reused the
> original seat
> 
> covers which has been a mistake as the aged bottom covers ripped when
> 
> stretched back on and over the seat frame.  The bottom seat covers glue
> into and onto the
> 
> foam so once on they will come off but your foam padding will be destroyed.
> 
> If you are doing this project I would recommend you also invest in new seat
> 
> covers for the additional $300-$400.  Or replace with Miatta seats which
> 
> would probably be about half the cost of the TR foam pad set and covers.
> 
> B
I rebuilt my 72 seats using the existing foam but I added extra foam  on the 
sides, back and seat bottom + jute webbing on the seat bottoms in addition to 
the rubber bladder. I also added a layer of dacron over all the side foam. I 
got that idea from my dad who was a skilled upholsterer.

I see from the 6 pack forum that the guys who added the miatta seats are very 
happy with the results. I guess the cost would depend on their availability at 
your local junk yard. I am not sure what the miatta hardware costs but I do 
believe it is available from Uncle Jack's son.

I wanted originality as best I could with the 72 restoration so I opted to 
rebuild.

Since I added the extra foam, webbing and dacron, the seats are very 
comfortable and give lots of support. 

The original covers were faded, dirty so I opted for new ones from a firm in 
England.

Bob

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Jan 10 16:30:12 2011
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 16:30:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A sa Brake pipes from TRF??
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1294686002.23319.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1294686002.23319.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0B73545E-5E76-4C9F-B33D-0C67D3AD94AA@telus.net>

Anyone have any experience with the brake piping from TRF as shown on  
this and previous page?
  Is it pre-bent or must you do your own shaping?

recommended or not
  many thanks
  Don

http://www.zeni.net/trf/webcatalog/specials7.27/index.php?menu=&page=31

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Jan 10 17:20:50 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 17:20:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <722968934.953593.1294603794825.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1538883586.953555.1294603742628.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<722968934.953593.1294603794825.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinGLVRxKEHYqZEpefXkRMPz4E_06iUmpc9jUwdR@mail.gmail.com>

I think the TR6 seats are a similar framework design to the TR4...

On 1/9/11, rcateb at comcast.net <rcateb at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> ...The bottom seat covers glue into and onto the foam...

That is also how Roger Williams' book describes the job in his TR4
book.  But after looking at the finished product (p 161) I concluded
that upholstery is not his long suit (his reupholstered seat looks
awful) and went my own way which included gluing nothing.

Worked fine and the seats look great.  Really, once its all clipped
on, nothing's going anywhere.

Perhaps this view is too late for you but for others, not gluing
simplifies the install and leaves you more options later on.

Geo

From guy at genfiniti.com  Mon Jan 10 18:05:51 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 19:05:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] Wiper Motor Question
Message-ID: <D40F992C-316B-498A-A6AD-BD8AA889DA15@genfiniti.com>

All,

I have recently rebuilt the Lucas DR3A wiper motor from the TR4A.
I am attempting to bench test and just cannot seem to get it working.
I am drawing heavily on this (http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et217.htm) web site for information.

I am using a AC to DC converter, which puts out 15 v, as the power source on terminal 2.
I hook up the positive (+) to terminal 2, the negative  (-) to the "E" terminal.
This should create an attraction between the positively charged parts (terminals, field coil, armature, brushes, commutator) and the negatively charged housing.
When I add the third wire from terminal 1 to the "E", taking it to ground, nothing happens.

Any ideas?  I suspect I am shorting somewhere, or the power source isn't strong enough to make it run.




Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Jan 10 18:12:38 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 20:12:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A sa Brake pipes from TRF??
In-Reply-To: <0B73545E-5E76-4C9F-B33D-0C67D3AD94AA@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1294686002.23319.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<0B73545E-5E76-4C9F-B33D-0C67D3AD94AA@telus.net>
Message-ID: <201101102012.39825.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday, January 10, 2011 06:30:12 pm Don Spence wrote:
> Anyone have any experience with the brake piping from TRF as shown on
> this and previous page?
>   Is it pre-bent or must you do your own shaping?
> 
> recommended or not
>   many thanks
>   Don
> 
> http://www.zeni.net/trf/webcatalog/specials7.27/index.php?menu=&page=31
Don,

I bought the 2 rear most pipes from  TRF for my 4 and although they are not 
pre-bent, I was able to bend them with ease using the pattern of the originals 
using a pipe bending tool I got at my FAPS.

on my 72 TR6 project, I had to replace all 3 rear pieces + the 2 front pieces 
and same process. Fittings are exact as original. And after bleeding, no runs, 
drips or errors on either car. Very satisfied with price and quality.

The only addition I made was to paint them with silver rust-oleum paint.

I use silicone fluid.

When bending remember same as when cutting lumber, measure twice and bend 
once!

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jan 10 19:12:01 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 18:12:01 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wiper Motor Question
In-Reply-To: <D40F992C-316B-498A-A6AD-BD8AA889DA15@genfiniti.com>
References: <D40F992C-316B-498A-A6AD-BD8AA889DA15@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <004801cbb134$f2e6d160$d8b47420$@rr.com>

> I hook up the positive (+) to terminal 2, the negative  (-) to the "E"
> terminal.

The connection to 'E' is required only for the park function.  The motor
should run continuously with power connected only between 1 and 2.  Polarity
does not matter.

> This should create an attraction between the positively charged parts
> (terminals, field coil, armature, brushes, commutator) and the
> negatively charged housing.

It's considerably more complicated than that.

> Any ideas?  I suspect I am shorting somewhere, or the power source
> isn't strong enough to make it run.

What are you using for a power source?  (I'm sorry, "AC to DC converter"
doesn't tell me much.)  The wiper motor takes several amps to make it run,
especially if the bearings are a bit stiff or you have the wiper mechanism
connected, while most common "wall wart" type supplies will only deliver a
few tenths of an amp.

Best way forward, IMO, would be to measure the voltage with the motor
connected.  DMM (Digital Multi Meter) are so cheap these days that there is
simply no excuse not to own one.  Harbor Freight usually has at least one on
sale for under $5.  But failing that, just connecting a 12v test light (or
any 12v light bulb) will at least let you know if lack of voltage is the
problem.

-- Randall 


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jan 10 19:15:35 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 18:15:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4A sa Brake pipes from TRF??
In-Reply-To: <201101102012.39825.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <mailman.2.1294686002.23319.triumphs@autox.team.net>	<0B73545E-5E76-4C9F-B33D-0C67D3AD94AA@telus.net>
	<201101102012.39825.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <004901cbb135$6f0c6f20$4d254d60$@rr.com>

> When bending remember same as when cutting lumber, measure twice and
> bend once!

FWIW, the Cunifer lines that Moss sells as a kit are MUCH easier to bend
(and rebend if necessary) than the original type plated steel lines.  They
are also more corrosion resistant.

Only downside IMO is that they are somewhat softer and more prone to
abrasion.  Plus of course the golden color isn't exactly original.

-- Randall 


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jan 11 06:37:58 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2011 08:37:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinGLVRxKEHYqZEpefXkRMPz4E_06iUmpc9jUwdR@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1538883586.953555.1294603742628.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><722968934.953593.1294603794825.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinGLVRxKEHYqZEpefXkRMPz4E_06iUmpc9jUwdR@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9BCC677412474AF098D265B4366EE4BB@BobPC>

Here's a great guide that VB used to produce on re-doing your TR6 interior 
and covers everything from seats to carpet to panels. Maybe it will help 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Restoration_VB_Guide.htm


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 7:20 PM
To: rcateb at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Seat Rebuild

I think the TR6 seats are a similar framework design to the TR4...

On 1/9/11, rcateb at comcast.net <rcateb at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> ...The bottom seat covers glue into and onto the foam...

That is also how Roger Williams' book describes the job in his TR4
book.  But after looking at the finished product (p 161) I concluded
that upholstery is not his long suit (his reupholstered seat looks
awful) and went my own way which included gluing nothing.

Worked fine and the seats look great.  Really, once its all clipped
on, nothing's going anywhere.

Perhaps this view is too late for you but for others, not gluing
simplifies the install and leaves you more options later on.

Geo
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From tbe749 at aol.com  Tue Jan 11 09:50:34 2011
From: tbe749 at aol.com (Tom)
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2011 11:50:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] John Ewell
References: <59DE09D4A74592478666A46DF50317C401129FEE@mail01.teipencpa.com>
Message-ID: <46238797-BFF8-42C3-B976-AAFA0102E1FE@aol.com>

Many of you knew John and of his fantastic TR 3B. John passed away Saturday the 8th. I linked his obituary below. Hopefully it works. If not google john's name Indianapolis

John and his car was often the center of attention at car shows both locally and national. Us locals called his TR as a TR Ford. There weren't many things he left alone. Always tinkering and improving sometimes just adding things like lights. Quite a talent who will be sorely missed.

Tom




Sent from my iPhone
> http://hosting-tributes-5000.tributes.com/show/John-Ewell-90469256

From jdabars at att.net  Tue Jan 11 13:49:02 2011
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2011 12:49:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: triumph ads
In-Reply-To: <870120.93308.qm@web83707.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <870120.93308.qm@web83707.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <798539.90482.qm@web83706.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>





----- Forwarded Message ----

Subject: Fw: triumph ads





Subject: triumph ads


 interesting page of ads
 ?
http://triumph-brochures.be/ 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Jan 11 17:20:31 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2011 19:20:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <9BCC677412474AF098D265B4366EE4BB@BobPC>
References: <1538883586.953555.1294603742628.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><722968934.953593.1294603794825.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinGLVRxKEHYqZEpefXkRMPz4E_06iUmpc9jUwdR@mail.gmail.com>
	<9BCC677412474AF098D265B4366EE4BB@BobPC>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAFCFHTG2LAxGqpXS5aMMMpsBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

Does anyone know if there is a similar 'how to' for TR3 seats.
Thanks
Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 8:38 AM
To: Geo Hahn; rcateb at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Seat Rebuild

Here's a great guide that VB used to produce on re-doing your TR6 interior
and covers everything from seats to carpet to panels. Maybe it will help
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Restoration_VB_Guide.htm


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 7:20 PM
To: rcateb at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Seat Rebuild

I think the TR6 seats are a similar framework design to the TR4...

On 1/9/11, rcateb at comcast.net <rcateb at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> ...The bottom seat covers glue into and onto the foam...

That is also how Roger Williams' book describes the job in his TR4 book.
But after looking at the finished product (p 161) I concluded that
upholstery is not his long suit (his reupholstered seat looks
awful) and went my own way which included gluing nothing.

Worked fine and the seats look great.  Really, once its all clipped on,
nothing's going anywhere.

Perhaps this view is too late for you but for others, not gluing simplifies
the install and leaves you more options later on.

Geo
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From pdqtr6 at comcast.net  Tue Jan 11 17:38:15 2011
From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (pdqtr6 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 00:38:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Color Scheme for PLN'd TR6
Message-ID: <1702501661.899798.1294792695631.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



Can anyone describe the color scheme or (better yet) provide a link to some color pictures of Paul Newman's 1976 champoinship-winning TR6? 

? 


Thanks 

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Jan 11 18:42:22 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2011 18:42:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Color Scheme for PLN'd TR6
In-Reply-To: <1702501661.899798.1294792695631.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1702501661.899798.1294792695631.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <31CE3011-2860-46FA-993C-CB06BEDE679E@comcast.net>

I sent whoever this is some pics I took of the Group 44 TR6 at VTR2010  
at Jekyll Island.  Can forward if someone wants to see them.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jan 11, 2011, at 5:38 PM, pdqtr6 at comcast.net wrote:

>
>
> Can anyone describe the color scheme or (better yet) provide a link  
> to some color pictures of Paul Newman's 1976 champoinship-winning TR6?
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net
>


From spamiam at comcast.net  Wed Jan 12 08:50:22 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 10:50:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] :  Wiper Motor Question
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1294772401.13985.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1294772401.13985.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C9AED8D4CAB24B9284058CB58533CB65@I7Quad>

Guy,  I agree with Randall, your power supply is probably totally 
inadequate.  Even a small 12v gellcell battery is not really up to the task. 
A lawnmower battery (or larger) would be good.  Use an inline fuse near the 
negative terminal of the battery for safety too.  5 amps ought to be OK.

I bet that once you get sufficient current delivery, then you will see the 
motor working properly.

-Tony



-----Original Message----- 
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 19:05:51 -0600
From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy at genfiniti.com>
Subject: [TR] Wiper Motor Question
To: RedRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com, triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <D40F992C-316B-498A-A6AD-BD8AA889DA15 at genfiniti.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

All,

I have recently rebuilt the Lucas DR3A wiper motor from the TR4A.
I am attempting to bench test and just cannot seem to get it working.
I am drawing heavily on this 
(http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et217.htm) web site for information.

I am using a AC to DC converter, which puts out 15 v, as the power source on 
terminal 2.
I hook up the positive (+) to terminal 2, the negative  (-) to the "E" 
terminal.
This should create an attraction between the positively charged parts 
(terminals, field coil, armature, brushes, commutator) and the negatively 
charged housing.
When I add the third wire from terminal 1 to the "E", taking it to ground, 
nothing happens.

Any ideas?  I suspect I am shorting somewhere, or the power source isn't 
strong enough to make it run.




Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO



From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jan 12 10:42:45 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 17:42:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party will be August 12th, 13th, 2011
In-Reply-To: <1832447595.1143644.1294853785954.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <384411906.1144048.1294854165358.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Just shouting this from the rooftops a little, as folks may need to plan ahead for a vacation in Pennsylvania.  Please spread the word on other British-car fora.


Paraphrased from:
==========
Charles A. Runyan
The Roadster Factory
January 11, 2011

Because of a conflict, I must change the dates of Summer Party 
2011 to August 12th, 13th, 2011.

==========

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Jan 12 12:33:36 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 11:33:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] gearbox
Message-ID: <359736.25844.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I'm dealing with the tr-3 gearbox from hell.  It's not the early non-synchro 
gearbox but not sure how much later of a gearbox it is.  Might be a tr-4.  Most 
of the problems I've had so far are just neophite beginner non mechanic 
mistakes.  (buttoning it all up only to find three little balls and springs 
laying on the workbench....grrrrrr)  


Anyway at present I'm having a huge problem getting the middle big bearing (the 
one at the end of the gear box, not the one on the end of the tailshaft) beat 
onto the shaft far enough to get the washer and circlip on.  I'm within 1/16 of 
an inch but can go no farther.  I've stood the gearbox up on end with a block 
under the mainshaft on bell housing end then tried to drive the bearing down the 
shaft to no avail.  I'm afraid I'm gonna break something.  Getting the bearing 
into the gearbox case is not the problem......its getting the bearing down the 
shaft.  I took everything out and on the bench vice was able to get the bearing 
down the shaft to the appropriate place.............If anyone has been there 
done that..........advice would be appreciated.  


One big piece of advice to anyone contemplating gearbox work.  If it works DON'T 
touch it.LOL  This gearbox was fin untill I started working on it,  as i found 
everything pretty much measured to specs.  I did change the counter shaft thrust 
washers but prolly didn't need to. 

thanks!

gary n.



      

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Jan 12 12:39:40 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 11:39:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] wheels
Message-ID: <241676.21207.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I've seen some great sales on new panasport type wheels but obviously not 
panasport or minilite.  My car (tr-3) will not be a serious concours or racing 
car.  Nothing stressful will be happening.LOL  I love the look of the 8 spoke 
type and am not concerned with "labels".

What are the concerns with wheels like this and is it worth the extra money for 
the premium brand?  Has anyone had experiences with the cut rate brand compared 
to the more expensive?  Where to manufacturers cut in order to come up with the 
cheaper wheels?

thanks

gary n.



      

From tgeiger at geigergarage.com  Wed Jan 12 13:06:46 2011
From: tgeiger at geigergarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 14:06:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] wheels
In-Reply-To: <241676.21207.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <241676.21207.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbb294$403dffa0$c0b9fee0$@geigergarage.com>

Gary,

I have Superlites on my TR6 and have been very happy with the quality.  I
have some Minilites on my wife's Herald and I consider them to be the same
quality as the Superlites; given this I would buy whichever set of wheels I
could get cheaper as far as Minilites and Superlites go.  Our cars are
drivers so they aren't used competitively or driven hard (especially the
Herald).

-----Original Message-----

I've seen some great sales on new panasport type wheels but obviously not
panasport or minilite.  My car (tr-3) will not be a serious concours or
racing car.  Nothing stressful will be happening.LOL  I love the look of the
8 spoke type and am not concerned with "labels".

What are the concerns with wheels like this and is it worth the extra money
for the premium brand?  Has anyone had experiences with the cut rate brand
compared to the more expensive?  Where to manufacturers cut in order to come
up with the cheaper wheels?
thanks

gary n.



From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Jan 12 13:03:09 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 14:03:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] wheels
In-Reply-To: <241676.21207.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <241676.21207.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikxUE2zE7jAFNAF1Ht1cMg5Q5W=Hk0UcmKKJABw@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 1:39 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I've seen some great sales on new panasport type wheels but obviously not
> panasport or minilite.  My car (tr-3) will not be a serious concours or
> racing
> car.  Nothing stressful will be happening.LOL  I love the look of the 8
> spoke
> type and am not concerned with "labels".
>
> What are the concerns with wheels like this and is it worth the extra money
> for
> the premium brand?  Has anyone had experiences with the cut rate brand
> compared
> to the more expensive?  Where to manufacturers cut in order to come up with
> the
> cheaper wheels?
>


I don't know what brands you are describing as "cut rate", but there are a
lot of people in 6-Pack with Konig
Rewinds on their cars (including me) who are really happy with them.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Jan 12 14:26:26 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 15:26:26 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?wheels?=
Message-ID: <20110112212558.0FAB118764D@autox.team.net>

Have run Superlites on the tiger, racing, autocrossing, and street use.  If the tr weren't such a low number and original, I would put a set on it.
A buddy has Konig mini-likes on his tr3 and they look and work GREAT!
R

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, Jan 12, 2011 13:39
Subject: [TR] wheels
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

I've seen some great sales on new panasport type wheels but obviously not 
panasport or minilite.  My car (tr-3) will not be a serious concours or racing 
car.  Nothing stressful will be happening.LOL  I love the look of the 8 spoke 
type and am not concerned with "labels".

What are the concerns with wheels like this and is it worth the extra money for 
the premium brand?  Has anyone had experiences with the cut rate brand compared 
to the more expensive?  Where to manufacturers cut in order to come up with the 
cheaper wheels?

thanks

gary n.



      
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Jan 12 18:19:03 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 20:19:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] wheels
In-Reply-To: <241676.21207.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <241676.21207.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201101122019.04432.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday, January 12, 2011 02:39:40 pm Gary Nafziger wrote:
> I've seen some great sales on new panasport type wheels but obviously not
> panasport or minilite.  My car (tr-3) will not be a serious concours or
> racing car.  Nothing stressful will be happening.LOL  I love the look of
> the 8 spoke type and am not concerned with "labels".
> 
> What are the concerns with wheels like this and is it worth the extra money
> for the premium brand?  Has anyone had experiences with the cut rate brand
> compared to the more expensive?  Where to manufacturers cut in order to
> come up with the cheaper wheels?
> 
> thanks
> 
> gary n.
> 
> 
Gary,

Another vote for Superlites. I have them on my 72 6 and they look great.

One of these days I will get a set for the 3. The 4 has Dayton wires and I 
will stick with them. For some  reason I think wires look best on the 4.

Bob

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Jan 12 18:37:18 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 17:37:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] wheels thanks!
Message-ID: <233514.51184.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

thanks for all the responses to my wheel question.  I now have several options 
to consider.........again thanks!


gary n.


      

From darrellw at ipns.com  Wed Jan 12 21:13:33 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 20:13:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
Message-ID: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>


What is the proper/recommended procedure for installing various gaskets?  In particular, I'm reinstalling my thermostat cover and water pump.  These gaskets are like thin kraft paper, and obviously are contact with water/coolant.  The other gasket I'm installing is the timing chain cover gasket.  This is a much thicker, heavy black material, and of course contacts oil.  Should they have any kind of dressing?  If so, what kind?  Applied to both sides?

Thanks!

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jan 12 21:48:53 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 21:48:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <538486B9956B4D03B1D689B5BE3F873F@Vista>

I use Permatex aviation form-a-gasket on both sides of those paper gaskets
and never have experienced any problems.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Darrell Walker
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:14 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation


What is the proper/recommended procedure for installing various gaskets?  In
particular, I'm reinstalling my thermostat cover and water pump.  These
gaskets are like thin kraft paper, and obviously are contact with
water/coolant.  The other gasket I'm installing is the timing chain cover
gasket.  This is a much thicker, heavy black material, and of course
contacts oil.  Should they have any kind of dressing?  If so, what kind?
Applied to both sides?

Thanks!

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Jan 12 22:24:32 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 22:24:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <538486B9956B4D03B1D689B5BE3F873F@Vista>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>
	<538486B9956B4D03B1D689B5BE3F873F@Vista>
Message-ID: <4D2E8C90.1090904@bradakis.com>

I should probably know the exact part number since I have
been using the stuff for years.  Permatex makes this spray
on sealant, red and sticky, that works quite well for a
number of gasket applications.  Maybe 99H??  They also
make a good gasket remover in a spray can that looks almost
exactly like the can of sealant.  Luckily I never got them mixed
up when wrenching.

mjb.



From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jan 12 22:45:10 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 21:45:10 -0800
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <018801cbb2e5$0af95b40$0301a8c0@randall>

> thermostat cover and water pump.  These gaskets are like thin 
> kraft paper, and obviously are contact with water/coolant.  

That's odd.  The factory gaskets were quite a bit thicker than what I'd call
kraft paper, more like a thin cardboard IMO.

I like Hylomar for those gaskets, mostly because it's easy to remove next
time.  In fact, I can frequently reuse the gasket.

> The other gasket I'm installing is the timing chain cover 
> gasket.  This is a much thicker, heavy black material, and of 
> course contacts oil.  Should they have any kind of dressing?  
> If so, what kind?  Applied to both sides?

I also use Hylomar there, applied to both sides.  Last time I also added a
fiber washer (cut from an unused carb gasket) to the support stud in the
middle of the cover, also with Hylomar on both sides.

Did I mention that I like Hylomar <G>

-- Randall  


From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jan 12 23:37:58 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 23:37:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <538486B9956B4D03B1D689B5BE3F873F@Vista>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>
	<538486B9956B4D03B1D689B5BE3F873F@Vista>
Message-ID: <2A021AD751F6473DB5397A6D30764C17@bboffice>

Ditto, I have always used the Permatex product on non-metallic gaskets.
B

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:49 PM
To: 'Darrell Walker'; 'list Triumph'
Subject: Re: [TR] Proper gasket installation

I use Permatex aviation form-a-gasket on both sides of those paper gaskets
and never have experienced any problems.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Darrell Walker
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:14 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation


What is the proper/recommended procedure for installing various gaskets?  In
particular, I'm reinstalling my thermostat cover and water pump.  These
gaskets are like thin kraft paper, and obviously are contact with
water/coolant.  The other gasket I'm installing is the timing chain cover
gasket.  This is a much thicker, heavy black material, and of course
contacts oil.  Should they have any kind of dressing?  If so, what kind?
Applied to both sides?

Thanks!

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
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_______________________________________________
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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Thu Jan 13 06:59:27 2011
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 05:59:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <2A021AD751F6473DB5397A6D30764C17@bboffice>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>	<538486B9956B4D03B1D689B5BE3F873F@Vista>
	<2A021AD751F6473DB5397A6D30764C17@bboffice>
Message-ID: <000f01cbb32a$17e086e0$47a194a0$@rr.com>

I third the motion of Permatex Aviation goo. It can be used just about
anywhere, except maybe the manifold gaskets.
Johnnie

> 
> Ditto, I have always used the Permatex product on non-metallic gaskets.
> B
> 
> 
> I use Permatex aviation form-a-gasket on both sides of those paper
> gaskets
> and never have experienced any problems.
> 
> Joe
> 
> 
> What is the proper/recommended procedure for installing various
> gaskets?  


From darrellw at ipns.com  Thu Jan 13 08:21:37 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 07:21:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <018801cbb2e5$0af95b40$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>
	<018801cbb2e5$0af95b40$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <2F9BEDF0-16E9-4636-A819-D550A864B452@ipns.com>


Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

On Jan 12, 2011, at 9:45 PM, Randall wrote:

>> thermostat cover and water pump.  These gaskets are like thin 
>> kraft paper, and obviously are contact with water/coolant.  
> 
> That's odd.  The factory gaskets were quite a bit thicker than what I'd call
> kraft paper, more like a thin cardboard IMO.

All are more rigid than a typical brown paper bag, and the thickness seems to vary.  Looking in my big stash of gaskets, I do have water pump gaskets almost as thick as chipboard, and some almost as thin as plain old paper.  In fact, my new water pump came with two gaskets, one very thin and one pretty thick!

> 
> I like Hylomar for those gaskets, mostly because it's easy to remove next
> time.  In fact, I can frequently reuse the gasket.

Is that the blue sticky stuff that doesn't really set?


-Darrell


-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Jan 13 08:34:51 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 07:34:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <018801cbb2e5$0af95b40$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>
	<018801cbb2e5$0af95b40$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <621334.54909.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

same as Randall said, and for all the same reasons.
also the permatex products are basically a silicone sealant. i use 10's gallons 
of silicone sealants in my work day, every day,?and it is very intolerant of 
oily or wet surfaces. even the slightest oil or water will cause failure. 
whereas hylomar is very tolerant.
Frank




________________________________
From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, January 12, 2011 9:45:10 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Proper gasket installation

> thermostat cover and water pump.? These gaskets are like thin 
> kraft paper, and obviously are contact with water/coolant.? 

That's odd.? The factory gaskets were quite a bit thicker than what I'd call
kraft paper, more like a thin cardboard IMO.

I like Hylomar for those gaskets, mostly because it's easy to remove next
time.? In fact, I can frequently reuse the gasket.

> The other gasket I'm installing is the timing chain cover 
> gasket.? This is a much thicker, heavy black material, and of 
> course contacts oil.? Should they have any kind of dressing?? 
> If so, what kind?? Applied to both sides?

I also use Hylomar there, applied to both sides.? Last time I also added a
fiber washer (cut from an unused carb gasket) to the support stud in the
middle of the cover, also with Hylomar on both sides.

Did I mention that I like Hylomar <G>

-- Randall? 


      

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Thu Jan 13 08:48:28 2011
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 10:48:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] gearbox
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5209.1294927153.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5209.1294927153.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BA6A7921-7F29-438F-B6B0-5D1074F05979@mgcarclub.com>

I don't have the manual in front of me but I recall that the bearing  
is driven/pressed onto the main shaft before the shaft with assembled  
gears is put into the case. Years ago I bought a length of iron pipe  
and a cap which proved to be the proper (close enough) diameter to  
slide over the rear of the shaft and drove the bearing on. More  
recently I may have used a bearing puller to press it on--don't  
remember now. If its already in the case, there may be something you  
can't see that is preventing from going on fully. In addition to the  
manual there are some good PDFs on the internet from the Buckeye  
Triumphs and Green County? Colorado? something.

On Jan 13, 2011, at 8:59 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Anyway at present I'm having a huge problem getting the middle big  
> bearing (the
> one at the end of the gear box, not the one on the end of the  
> tailshaft) beat
> onto the shaft far enough to get the washer and circlip on.  I'm  
> within 1/16 of
> an inch but can go no farther.  I've stood the gearbox up on end  
> with a block
> under the mainshaft on bell housing end then tried to drive the  
> bearing down the
> shaft to no avail.  I'm afraid I'm gonna break something.  Getting  
> the bearing
> into the gearbox case is not the problem......its getting the  
> bearing down the
> shaft.  I took everything out and on the bench vice was able to get  
> the bearing
> down the shaft to the appropriate place.............If anyone has  
> been there
> done that..........advice would be appreciated.



From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jan 13 09:02:32 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 09:02:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <2F9BEDF0-16E9-4636-A819-D550A864B452@ipns.com>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>
	<018801cbb2e5$0af95b40$0301a8c0@randall>
	<2F9BEDF0-16E9-4636-A819-D550A864B452@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikNiP5ARcNACAAfYxa1NADW_xHsSjhZU0N6c5H+@mail.gmail.com>

On 1/13/11, Darrell Walker <darrellw at ipns.com> wrote:

>...Looking in my big stash of gaskets, I do have water pump gaskets
> almost as thick as chipboard, and some almost as thin as plain old paper....

Which is often why I end up just making my own gaskets.

> ...Is that the blue sticky stuff that doesn't really set?

Yes, that's Hylomar.  A British product I think, has been available in
the past at Harbor Freight though I haven't looked lately.  Great
product.

Randall really likes the stuff... I think I once saw him putting it on a scone.

Geo

From jdabars at att.net  Thu Jan 13 09:00:34 2011
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 08:00:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: All kind of neat--reasonable priced english car parts from
	UK
Message-ID: <919810.8741.qm@web83703.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>





----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars jdabars at att.net

Subject: All kind of neat--reasonable priced english car parts from UK


click on this
www.classiccarparts-uk.co.uk 

From fishplate at charter.net  Thu Jan 13 20:24:53 2011
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 22:24:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikNiP5ARcNACAAfYxa1NADW_xHsSjhZU0N6c5H+@mail.gmail.com>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>	<018801cbb2e5$0af95b40$0301a8c0@randall>	<2F9BEDF0-16E9-4636-A819-D550A864B452@ipns.com>
	<AANLkTikNiP5ARcNACAAfYxa1NADW_xHsSjhZU0N6c5H+@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4D2FC205.5080104@charter.net>

On 1/13/2011 11:02 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> Yes, that's Hylomar.  A British product I think, has been available in
> the past at Harbor Freight though I haven't looked lately.  Great
> product.
>    
Doesn't seem to be on their web site.  Turns out my FLAPS apparently has 
it in stock, though.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Fri Jan 14 06:01:03 2011
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 08:01:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] milestone
Message-ID: <AANLkTinXDzGU5QNNLKpoe0EEG=L-KJWjY7EMSjAxLA_G@mail.gmail.com>

Forty years ago today, CC61193L was assembled. The old girl is presently
hibernating in the barn; perhaps I should go have a peek just to say hello.

--Phil Barnes
--'71 TR6 since 1977

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Jan 14 06:50:45 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 08:50:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] milestone
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinXDzGU5QNNLKpoe0EEG=L-KJWjY7EMSjAxLA_G@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinXDzGU5QNNLKpoe0EEG=L-KJWjY7EMSjAxLA_G@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <65F7671CAA424F5198A6ADADD1D32685@DCH6RFC1>

The least you can do is sing Happy Birthday.  For my fortieth my wife (a
pharmacist) got a Viagra bottle and filled it with Aleve.  My friends got a
chuckle out of that...............

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Philip Barnes
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2011 8:01 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; Triumphs Digest
Subject: [TR] milestone

Forty years ago today, CC61193L was assembled. The old girl is presently
hibernating in the barn; perhaps I should go have a peek just to say hello.

--Phil Barnes
--'71 TR6 since 1977
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
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From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jan 14 08:40:49 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 08:40:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] milestone
In-Reply-To: <65F7671CAA424F5198A6ADADD1D32685@DCH6RFC1>
References: <AANLkTinXDzGU5QNNLKpoe0EEG=L-KJWjY7EMSjAxLA_G@mail.gmail.com>
	<65F7671CAA424F5198A6ADADD1D32685@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <9C3CF8E4DFE24781A08C7E0F9C655EE5@Vista>

Maybe for my 64th birthday coming up in April, my wife will get me an Aleve
bottle filled with Viagra!  :)

Hey, it could happen!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2011 6:51 AM
To: 'Philip Barnes'; 6pack at autox.team.net; 'Triumphs Digest'
Subject: Re: [TR] milestone

The least you can do is sing Happy Birthday.  For my fortieth my wife (a
pharmacist) got a Viagra bottle and filled it with Aleve.  My friends got a
chuckle out of that...............

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Philip Barnes
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2011 8:01 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; Triumphs Digest
Subject: [TR] milestone

Forty years ago today, CC61193L was assembled. The old girl is presently
hibernating in the barn; perhaps I should go have a peek just to say hello.

--Phil Barnes
--'71 TR6 since 1977
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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_______________________________________________
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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Fri Jan 14 10:41:29 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 12:41:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <4D2FC205.5080104@charter.net>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>
	<018801cbb2e5$0af95b40$0301a8c0@randall>
	<2F9BEDF0-16E9-4636-A819-D550A864B452@ipns.com>
	<AANLkTikNiP5ARcNACAAfYxa1NADW_xHsSjhZU0N6c5H+@mail.gmail.com>
	<4D2FC205.5080104@charter.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=2HUzdCyeK3w_OwR8OuyEtwcZ5Zz7NMnUODg4Q@mail.gmail.com>

I've seen it at Grainger as well -- around 16 bucks for the 100g tube.

*http://tinyurl.com/49hw8qx*

Chris
54 TR2
63 TR4

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jan 14 11:44:44 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 10:44:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <4D2FC205.5080104@charter.net>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>	<018801cbb2e5$0af95b40$0301a8c0@randall>	<2F9BEDF0-16E9-4636-A819-D550A864B452@ipns.com>	<AANLkTikNiP5ARcNACAAfYxa1NADW_xHsSjhZU0N6c5H+@mail.gmail.com>
	<4D2FC205.5080104@charter.net>
Message-ID: <04f201cbb41b$1d2742a0$5775c7e0$@rr.com>

> > Yes, that's Hylomar.  A British product I think, has been available
> in
> > the past at Harbor Freight though I haven't looked lately.  Great
> > product.
> >
> Doesn't seem to be on their web site.  

My local HF doesn't have it on the shelf any more, either.  I suspect they
bought a close-out somewhere, as the Hylomar I got from them had separated
inside the tube.  Not a particularly big deal, but I've never seen that
before, leading me to believe it hadn't been stored properly or perhaps was
beyond its shelf life.

-- Randall 


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Jan 14 13:47:03 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 12:47:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Proper gasket installation
In-Reply-To: <04f201cbb41b$1d2742a0$5775c7e0$@rr.com>
References: <C5EB5590-954B-43E1-82E8-CD648877D26A@ipns.com>
	<018801cbb2e5$0af95b40$0301a8c0@randall>
	<2F9BEDF0-16E9-4636-A819-D550A864B452@ipns.com>
	<AANLkTikNiP5ARcNACAAfYxa1NADW_xHsSjhZU0N6c5H+@mail.gmail.com>
	<4D2FC205.5080104@charter.net>
	<04f201cbb41b$1d2742a0$5775c7e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <899644.9190.qm@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

and i might add that most of the Hylomar i have bought in the last 4 years has 
only contained about a half full tube.
i start rolling up the bottom of the tube with my little metal roller thing, and 
it really takes to about the 1/2 way point before the blue comes out.
seems you get 50ml in 100ml tube.
and it seems like some of the solvents have dried up. the blue is immediately 
like jello rather than paste.
been meaning to complain to the 2 guys i buy it from, but never get round to it. 
next time i buy a tube i will.
Frank




________________________________
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, January 14, 2011 10:44:44 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Proper gasket installation

> > Yes, that's Hylomar.? A British product I think, has been available
> in
> > the past at Harbor Freight though I haven't looked lately.? Great
> > product.
> >
> Doesn't seem to be on their web site.? 

My local HF doesn't have it on the shelf any more, either.? I suspect they
bought a close-out somewhere, as the Hylomar I got from them had separated
inside the tube.? Not a particularly big deal, but I've never seen that
before, leading me to believe it hadn't been stored properly or perhaps was
beyond its shelf life.

-- Randall 


      

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri Jan 14 16:06:19 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 17:06:19 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Front grill valance 1972 Triumph TR6
Message-ID: <108330771.511530.1295046379825.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

List,
 
Happy 2011.  Working on my TR6 if it ever warms up.
 
One owner 72 TR6.  I worked on a front grill restoration, the original one had plastic wrapped on the lower valance (which I have heard from other owners they have seen).
 
I removed the entire grill, replaced the valance with one from TRF, painted the grill, and put it all back together.  It turned out great.
 
Two years later, the point at the front of the valance has the paint off and rust showing.  So, I purchased another valance from TRF and am looking for some advice.
 
What would be the best way to prevent this from happening again.  My thoughts:
1.)  Paint the whole thing with Rustoleum
2.)  Paint the whole thing with a matte finish clear coat
 
Any input on this would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
 
Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri Jan 14 16:52:04 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 17:52:04 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Front grill valance 1972 Triumph TR6
Message-ID: <494755476.514208.1295049124808.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

Already have the new one, want to make sure I don't have to buy another one.............Craig


Jan 14, 2011 06:19:49 PM, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com wrote:


being a TR3 owner im not sure what the TR6 valance looks like.
but im thinking id take the old one and have it bead blasted and powder coated.
would that be about the same price as a new one?
Frank
58 TR3



From: "thenicholls at verizon.net" 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, January 14, 2011 3:06:19 PM
Subject: [TR] Front grill valance 1972 Triumph TR6

List,

Happy 2011.  Working on my TR6 if it ever warms up.

One owner 72 TR6.  I worked on a front grill restoration, the original one had plastic wrapped on the lower valance (which I have heard from other owners they have seen).

I removed the entire grill, replaced the valance with one from TRF, painted the grill, and put it all back together.  It turned out great.

Two years later, the point at the front of the valance has the paint off and rust showing.  So, I purchased another valance from TRF and am looking for some advice.

What would be the best way to prevent this from happening again.  My thoughts:
1.)  Paint the whole thing with Rustoleum
2.)  Paint the whole thing with a matte finish clear coat

Any input on this would be appreciated, thanks in advance.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com



From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Fri Jan 14 16:56:54 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 18:56:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal
Message-ID: <E1C9BC657A5C41C5832B9725C2A6E3FE@TRGUY>

Anyone know the correct length of a TR4 fan pedestal.  Is it 4 inches for the TR4 and 4.75 for the 4A?  I have a 4.75 one on my 62 engine (by engine number) and it had a TR4A yellow fan blade attached. Looking for the correct part.  Thanks!

Jim Henningsen
Maitland FL
62 TR4 CT5212Lo

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Jan 14 17:02:30 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 19:02:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Front grill valance 1972 Triumph TR6
In-Reply-To: <108330771.511530.1295046379825.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
References: <108330771.511530.1295046379825.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
Message-ID: <201101141902.31240.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday, January 14, 2011 06:06:19 pm thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:
> List,
> 
> Happy 2011.  Working on my TR6 if it ever warms up.
> 
> One owner 72 TR6.  I worked on a front grill restoration, the original one
> had plastic wrapped on the lower valance (which I have heard from other
> owners they have seen).
> 
> I removed the entire grill, replaced the valance with one from TRF, painted
> the grill, and put it all back together.  It turned out great.
> 
> Two years later, the point at the front of the valance has the paint off
> and rust showing.  So, I purchased another valance from TRF and am looking
> for some advice.
> 
> What would be the best way to prevent this from happening again.  My
> thoughts: 1.)  Paint the whole thing with Rustoleum
> 2.)  Paint the whole thing with a matte finish clear coat
> 
> Any input on this would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
> 
> Craig
> 1972 Triumph TR6
Craig,
If you mean the black piece that fits on those slots in front of and is then 
attached to the grill. I would have it powder coated in a matte black. That 
should keep it from rusting.

Bob,

Also with a 72.

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri Jan 14 18:33:58 2011
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 20:33:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal
References: <E1C9BC657A5C41C5832B9725C2A6E3FE@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <9FF1DEB4EE1C40DD8F413477F9260468@DCS78M81>

James, Janet said, "objects in the mirror are appear larger than they are."
That's my answer and I'm sticking to it.
Tom

From: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2011 6:56 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal


> Anyone know the correct length of a TR4 fan pedestal.  Is it 4 inches for 
> the TR4 and 4.75 for the 4A?  I have a 4.75 one on my 62 engine (by engine 
> number) and it had a TR4A yellow fan blade attached. Looking for the 
> correct part.  Thanks!
>
> Jim Henningsen
> Maitland FL
> 62 TR4 CT5212Lo
> _______________________________________________
> 



From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jan 14 19:46:07 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 21:46:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal
In-Reply-To: <9FF1DEB4EE1C40DD8F413477F9260468@DCS78M81>
References: <E1C9BC657A5C41C5832B9725C2A6E3FE@TRGUY>,
	<9FF1DEB4EE1C40DD8F413477F9260468@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <BLU156-w43AB9A53C149086EE539B1BAF20@phx.gbl>


She must have been hitting the sponge beer.....:)

Marty

> From: tfansher at comcast.net
> To: trguy at cfl.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 20:33:58 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal
> 
> James, Janet said, "objects in the mirror are appear larger than they are."
> That's my answer and I'm sticking to it.
> Tom
> 
> From: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
> To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 14, 2011 6:56 PM
> Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal
> 
> 
> > Anyone know the correct length of a TR4 fan pedestal.  Is it 4 inches for 
> > the TR4 and 4.75 for the 4A?  I have a 4.75 one on my 62 engine (by engine 
> > number) and it had a TR4A yellow fan blade attached. Looking for the 
> > correct part.  Thanks!
> >
> > Jim Henningsen
> > Maitland FL
> > 62 TR4 CT5212Lo
> > _______________________________________________
> > 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trmarty at hotmail.com
> 
 		 	   		  

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Sat Jan 15 18:39:53 2011
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2011 18:39:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] ARP Head Bolts
Message-ID: <BFA670420B2C4BCEAAD6B1651A2B1C97@bboffice>

After violently breaking a head bolt last fall I decided to order a set of
the ARP bolts and change them out this winter.  So now I have them and I see
they come with this odd little 12-point nut, so I have a question for those
in the know.  

I don't really like the looks of these new nuts as my car is 99.9% original
so I am wondering if there is any serious issues with re-using the old nuts
on the five studs that are visible from outside the engine?
 
BTW, I always torqued in two stages to 105lbs, but ARP says three stages and
110lbs.  Would 50-80-105/110 be about right?  
 
TIA,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


From 61TR4ever at comcast.net  Sun Jan 16 00:03:09 2011
From: 61TR4ever at comcast.net (Gary Grant)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 02:03:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal
Message-ID: <LOBBKEDBINBGPLMEJOFNKEOFHBAA.61TR4ever@comcast.net>

The TR4 and TR4A both used the same fan extension hub, except when the TR4A
was fitted with the early plastic fan. The cast iron extension was part
number 128318 and is 4-3/4" in length. The aluminum extension used with the
plastic fan was just a fraction shorter. My TR3 hubs are packed away so I
could not measure the length, but I suspect they are the 4" that you are
questioning.

Correct for your 62 TR4 would be the cast iron longer extension used with
the 4 blade metal fan (spatula shaped blades).

See link below for a comparison photo.


http://s1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb460/celtictwo/?action=view&current=Fan
Extensions3types.jpg


Gary
Algonac, MI
CT1547L


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jan 16 00:36:30 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2011 23:36:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal
In-Reply-To: <LOBBKEDBINBGPLMEJOFNKEOFHBAA.61TR4ever@comcast.net>
References: <LOBBKEDBINBGPLMEJOFNKEOFHBAA.61TR4ever@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00fb01cbb550$178897f0$0301a8c0@randall>

There seems to have been at least one more variant:
http://tinyurl.com/4qxhml6

-- Randall  


From 61TR4ever at comcast.net  Sun Jan 16 02:58:10 2011
From: 61TR4ever at comcast.net (Gary Grant)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 04:58:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal
Message-ID: <LOBBKEDBINBGPLMEJOFNGEOGHBAA.61TR4ever@comcast.net>



I have one of these also, but after a previous discussion it has been
determined to be a "worn" extension. The extension with the groove was from
CT1547. There was no wear on the steering rack tubung, however there is
other evidence that the car was involved in a front collision and the rack
could have been changed.

See this thread for the complete discussion:
http://triumphregister.lefora.com/2010/11/05/mystery-tr4-fan-extension/#post
5

gary


From guy at genfiniti.com  Sun Jan 16 06:44:00 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 07:44:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hazard Lights
Message-ID: <D2FB01FB-17C2-49F7-AB2E-BBE3AE4F53F6@genfiniti.com>

All,

The restoration is coming along very nicely.

I've got the body mostly assembled and aligned, the doors done, most of the engine/cooling work and have started looking at the electrics.
I decided to go with the Dan Master wiring harness, and have begun to study the diagrams.
Yesterday I produced an inventory of electrical components from the diagram, and went into the garage to match the list with what I physically have.

But I have a dilemma I am hoping someone can help with.
The diagram makes mention of "hazard" switch and "hazard indicator", separate from the turn signal switch and indicator.
I do not remember (from 1987) this car ever having a hazard switch or indicator. (I've got the red ignition warning indicator and the green turn signal indicator, but a hazard indicator?)

My expectations are that I am supposed to have a hazard switch, which is missing, that makes the turn signal lights blink, like in a modern car.  It would mount where?
I also expect to find another indicator lamp of some sort, also missing, which is the indicator that the hazards are "on".  Where would it go?

Can someone offer some guidance here?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Jan 16 08:00:37 2011
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 10:00:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A lower fender attachment clips
Message-ID: <1C5E94CC580E4948989EA2CD81FC781A@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
I have been looking for replacements for my lower fender attachment clips on my TR4A. This is the little dogleged metal tab where one end slips into a slot in the lower sill and there is a tapped hole in the other end that holds the bottom of the fender against the sill. I think I need all 6 of them. I could probably make them if I had a picture on one or even better a drawing. I checked the Moss and TRF websites with no luck unless I missed them.
63 days till Spring,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a



From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Jan 16 08:07:58 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 10:07:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A lower fender attachment clips
In-Reply-To: <1C5E94CC580E4948989EA2CD81FC781A@DaveLaptop>
References: <1C5E94CC580E4948989EA2CD81FC781A@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <6D22DC3DCBDA4396ADEEC002F8BE029B@DCH6RFC1>

Dave:  do they not come in the fender kit (Moss 322-958) ?

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2011 10:01 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A lower fender attachment clips

Hi List,
I have been looking for replacements for my lower fender attachment clips on
my TR4A. This is the little dogleged metal tab where one end slips into a
slot in the lower sill and there is a tapped hole in the other end that
holds the bottom of the fender against the sill. I think I need all 6 of
them. I could probably make them if I had a picture on one or even better a
drawing. I checked the Moss and TRF websites with no luck unless I missed
them.
63 days till Spring,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net



From timtucker at comcast.net  Sun Jan 16 07:58:10 2011
From: timtucker at comcast.net (Tim Tucker)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 09:58:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A lower fender attachment clips
In-Reply-To: <1C5E94CC580E4948989EA2CD81FC781A@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <4401BA12831640C5BA64751E7CA84B02@SAGERLAPTOP>

I believe the TR4 spares catalog shows them as part #FA3058. TRF crosses
part #FA3058 to part number FJ2407/4.
Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2011 10:01 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A lower fender attachment clips


Hi List,
I have been looking for replacements for my lower fender attachment clips on
my TR4A. This is the little dogleged metal tab where one end slips into a
slot in the lower sill and there is a tapped hole in the other end that
holds the bottom of the fender against the sill. I think I need all 6 of
them. I could probably make them if I had a picture on one or even better a
drawing. I checked the Moss and TRF websites with no luck unless I missed
them.
63 days till Spring,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/timtucker at comcast.net




From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jan 16 08:32:35 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 10:32:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] future Triumph owner
Message-ID: <201101161032.36022.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

All,

I posted a cute photo on the forum of our new grandson.

Link: http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=108

He will have a choice of the 58 TR3A (pale yellow), 63 TR4, (Spa white) or the 
freshly restored 72 TR6 (French blue).

I wonder which one he will choose?

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jan 16 08:35:54 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 10:35:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A lower fender attachment clips
In-Reply-To: <1C5E94CC580E4948989EA2CD81FC781A@DaveLaptop>
References: <1C5E94CC580E4948989EA2CD81FC781A@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <201101161035.54673.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, January 16, 2011 10:00:37 am Dave Connitt wrote:
> Hi List,
> I have been looking for replacements for my lower fender attachment clips
> on my TR4A. This is the little dogleged metal tab where one end slips into
> a slot in the lower sill and there is a tapped hole in the other end that
> holds the bottom of the fender against the sill. I think I need all 6 of
> them. I could probably make them if I had a picture on one or even better
> a drawing. I checked the Moss and TRF websites with no luck unless I
> missed them. 63 days till Spring,
> Dave Connitt
> '67 TR4A IRS
> http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a
> 
> 
>

Dave,

Those are just speed nuts for a 1/4 inch Acme bolts. Same part is used for the 
4, 4A, 250 and 6 fenders.

If you have one for the rear fender of your 4, just take it to Lowes or any 
hardware store and they should have them.


Bob

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jan 16 08:49:09 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 07:49:09 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal
In-Reply-To: <LOBBKEDBINBGPLMEJOFNGEOGHBAA.61TR4ever@comcast.net>
References: <LOBBKEDBINBGPLMEJOFNGEOGHBAA.61TR4ever@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <011f01cbb594$ea3a7d00$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have one of these also, but after a previous discussion it has been
> determined to be a "worn" extension.

Interesting.  How do you explain the rough "as cast" appearance of the
"worn" area?  Does it have the remains of the casting number on the other
side?

Odd that two different cars would exhibit the same amount of wear (which
would surely be enough to ruin the rack).

-- Randall  


From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Jan 16 09:18:12 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 16:18:12 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hazard Lights
In-Reply-To: <D2FB01FB-17C2-49F7-AB2E-BBE3AE4F53F6@genfiniti.com>
References: <D2FB01FB-17C2-49F7-AB2E-BBE3AE4F53F6@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <802416.88316.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Guy

The TR4A was never fitted with hazard lights at the factory when built to 
Federal specification. The TR250 of 1968 together with Spitfire and GT6 to NA 
spec of the same year onwards had them - but nothing before.
I stress the cars were all built to a *Federal* spec and this did not take into 
account the vagaries of laws prevailing in individual states. Quite possible 
your car may have had hazards fitted by the original selling dealer if his state 
law required them - but AFAIK, no 4A ever left Coventry with them fitted.
Hope this helps

Jonmac


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk


      

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sun Jan 16 10:09:12 2011
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 09:09:12 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal
In-Reply-To: <011f01cbb594$ea3a7d00$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <LOBBKEDBINBGPLMEJOFNGEOGHBAA.61TR4ever@comcast.net>
	<011f01cbb594$ea3a7d00$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <001201cbb5a0$196fc020$4c4f4060$@rr.com>

Hmmm. My '67 TR4A CTC75157 has a pedestal with a part number ending in 318,
and has a slight relief cut in it for the steering rack (not as radical as
shown in the pictures). The relief cuts through the first of the part
number, and does look like it was machined in. The rack looks untouched.

That was how I bought it in 1970. It had the four blade metal fan (now
replaced by the 8 blade yellow plastic one).

As a side note, there's not much room between the pedestal and the rack, so
replacing the fan belt required the lifting of the engine. Many years ago
this list recommended using fender washers on top of the engine mount to add
clearance, which I did. I can now replace the fan belt while on the road.
Thank-you, it came in handy a few years ago.

Since my car was made around Xmas of 1967, and the TR5/250 was about to
start, maybe British Leyland was getting rid of any left-over parts?

Johnnie

> 
> > I have one of these also, but after a previous discussion it has been
> > determined to be a "worn" extension.
> 
> Interesting.  How do you explain the rough "as cast" appearance of the
> "worn" area?  Does it have the remains of the casting number on the
> other
> side?
> 
> Odd that two different cars would exhibit the same amount of wear
> (which
> would surely be enough to ruin the rack).
> 


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jan 16 11:01:32 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 13:01:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Future Triumphs owner
Message-ID: <201101161301.32989.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

List,

I sent this email early this morning but it looks like it went in the bit 
bucket.

So here it is again:

All,

I posted a cute photo on the forum of our new grandson.

Link: http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=108

He will have a choice of the 58 TR3A (pale yellow), 63 TR4, (Spa white) or the 
freshly restored 72 TR6 (French blue).

I wonder which one he will choose?

Bob

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jan 16 11:18:52 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 13:18:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hylomar at Moss
Message-ID: <842DCADE15504B998B8648BF0D45711F@BobPC>

In the midst of the "Proper Gasket Installation" thread I got an email from 
Moss linking (http://tinyurl.com/6f5lw4d) to two different types of Hylomar 
that they now carry. If that link doesn't work it's part# 232-215 and 
232-220. Neither is cheap! I'm not sure where their "old" Hylomar # 221-556 
fits into this new mix.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs 


From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun Jan 16 12:36:02 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 14:36:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 fan Pedestal
Message-ID: <D4E72E344E9A44B48F59A123B9247DB8@TRGUY>

Thanks for all the feedback regarding the correct extension for a TR4.  My hub looks just like the pictures made available with the "wear" on the hub.  I am thinking this is not factory, as on mine it has a bit of the part number left next to the worn area.  The 128318 is listed in the TR4 parts book and folks have identified it as 4 3/4 inches long.  Tom - that's the hub and not something else :)   I have found a hub replace the worn one so thanks again!  

Anyone have a set of original snap in TR4 floor mats that run up the footwell and attach to the clips?  TRF makes the ones for TR3 but not the TR4 and I haven't seem them anywhere.  

Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen  
Maitland FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO (all over the garage now)
75 TR6

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Sun Jan 16 13:34:05 2011
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 15:34:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity
Message-ID: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com>

I am about to put new oil in my TR3A gearbox with overdrive.  When I look in my Haynes Workshop Manual it says under gearbox capacities:

	Gearbox - 1.5 pints
	Gearbox with O/D - 3.25 pints
	Drain & refill - 2.75 pints

Does the drain & refill cover both, or just the gearbox with overdrive???

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S 
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/






From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Jan 16 13:36:42 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 13:36:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 fan Pedestal
In-Reply-To: <D4E72E344E9A44B48F59A123B9247DB8@TRGUY>
References: <D4E72E344E9A44B48F59A123B9247DB8@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinjA0m+47=EY-AwHyCYKeS5nALERPuDXG_no9Wb@mail.gmail.com>

On 1/16/11, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> Anyone have a set of original snap in TR4 floor mats that run up the
> footwell and attach to the clips?  TRF makes the ones for TR3 but not the
> TR4 and I haven't seem them anywhere.

I did not realize there was such a thing.  TR3s needed them as there
was no carpet in that area.  TR4s came with carpet but I had not heard
of an original mat.

Geo

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun Jan 16 14:15:37 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 16:15:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 fan Pedestal
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinjA0m+47=EY-AwHyCYKeS5nALERPuDXG_no9Wb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D4E72E344E9A44B48F59A123B9247DB8@TRGUY>
	<AANLkTinjA0m+47=EY-AwHyCYKeS5nALERPuDXG_no9Wb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <13172B67607E4F8C9FC4D16F537B88B7@TRGUY>

My last 63 still had them installed.  I talked to Dave H at TRF a few weeks 
ago and they stated they haven't made replacements like they have for the 
TR3 and I haven't seem them at any of the other vendors.  Jim Henningsen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2011 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 fan Pedestal


> On 1/16/11, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>> Anyone have a set of original snap in TR4 floor mats that run up the
>> footwell and attach to the clips?  TRF makes the ones for TR3 but not the
>> TR4 and I haven't seem them anywhere.
>
> I did not realize there was such a thing.  TR3s needed them as there
> was no carpet in that area.  TR4s came with carpet but I had not heard
> of an original mat.
>
> Geo 


From dbh at hamengr.com  Sun Jan 16 14:43:24 2011
From: dbh at hamengr.com (David B. Hammond)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 13:43:24 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 runs rough
In-Reply-To: <13172B67607E4F8C9FC4D16F537B88B7@TRGUY>
References: <D4E72E344E9A44B48F59A123B9247DB8@TRGUY>	<AANLkTinjA0m+47=EY-AwHyCYKeS5nALERPuDXG_no9Wb@mail.gmail.com>
	<13172B67607E4F8C9FC4D16F537B88B7@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <000601cbb5c6$679b1580$36d14080$@com>

My TR4 misses under load after it warms up. I've changed wires, cap
rotor..nothing..any ideas?
David Hammond


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jan 16 14:59:44 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 13:59:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity
In-Reply-To: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com>
References: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <019d01cbb5c8$afead300$0301a8c0@randall>

> 	Drain & refill - 2.75 pints
> 
> Does the drain & refill cover both, or just the gearbox with 
> overdrive???

I believe that is for both.  Also note that those are Imperial pints.  

-- Randall  


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jan 16 15:04:37 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 14:04:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 runs rough
In-Reply-To: <000601cbb5c6$679b1580$36d14080$@com>
References: <D4E72E344E9A44B48F59A123B9247DB8@TRGUY>	<AANLkTinjA0m+47=EY-AwHyCYKeS5nALERPuDXG_no9Wb@mail.gmail.com><13172B67607E4F8C9FC4D16F537B88B7@TRGUY>
	<000601cbb5c6$679b1580$36d14080$@com>
Message-ID: <019e01cbb5c9$5de36a30$0301a8c0@randall>

> My TR4 misses under load after it warms up. I've changed wires, cap
> rotor..nothing..any ideas?

Have you checked the mixture?  Valve lash?

-- Randall  


From zoboherald at aol.com  Sun Jan 16 16:09:29 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 18:09:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hazard Lights
In-Reply-To: <802416.88316.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <D2FB01FB-17C2-49F7-AB2E-BBE3AE4F53F6@genfiniti.com>
	<802416.88316.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CD83E98E0FFB17-1624-1C48A@webmail-m056.sysops.aol.com>

New York was one state that required "hazard flashers" as of 1966. Most 
such installations I've seen over the years on Triumphs first sold in 
NY were dealer- (or possibly distributor-) added installations, often 
as not brands such as "Yankee." They were a self-contained unit 
consisting of a big chromed pull switch usually with the red warning 
lamp built into the head of the knob and the flasher on the back. Like 
aftermarket accessory flasher units available at the time, these were 
designed for quick (if not ideal) installation, as the wire ends had 
some sort of "Scotch lock-style" connectors that simply crimped over 
(and hopefully pierced into the center of) the green with red or green 
with white wires!

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

-----Original Message-----
From: John Macartney <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>

Guy

The TR4A was never fitted with hazard lights at the factory when built 
to
Federal specification. The TR250 of 1968 together with Spitfire and GT6 
to NA
spec of the same year onwards had them - but nothing before.
I stress the cars were all built to a *Federal* spec and this did not 
take into
account the vagaries of laws prevailing in individual states. Quite 
possible
your car may have had hazards fitted by the original selling dealer if 
his state

law required them - but AFAIK, no 4A ever left Coventry with them 
fitted.
Hope this helps

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Sun Jan 16 17:29:58 2011
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 16:29:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4A: in need of accelerator shaft metal bushing
Message-ID: <62B094B4E5B447F1BC961951C4627013@Shemp>

Part # 120443, the metal sleeve that fits inside the nylon bearing.  NLS from TRF, others don?t even list it.  If anyone has a salvage part I?ll pay a fair price.  If you want to sell the whole shaft assembly, let?s talk.

If I can?t find a salvage part I suppose I could think about making one.

Thanks in advance,

Cliff

66 TR4A

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Jan 16 17:39:14 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 00:39:14 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Future Triumphs owner
In-Reply-To: <201101161301.32989.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201101161301.32989.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <778228.89733.qm@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Bob

Congratulations, Grandad!
Why not take all the confusion out of his decision for later years and get the 
commission numbers of all the cars on his birth or baptism certificates :) Don't 
state model or colour - just let him choose the number and see what he gets. 
Lucky boy!

Jonmac



________________________________
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 16 January, 2011 18:01:32
Subject: [TR] Future Triumphs owner

List,

I sent this email early this morning but it looks like it went in the bit 
bucket.

So here it is again:

All,

I posted a cute photo on the forum of our new grandson.

Link: http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=108

He will have a choice of the 58 TR3A (pale yellow), 63 TR4, (Spa white) or the 
freshly restored 72 TR6 (French blue).

I wonder which one he will choose?

Bob
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk


      

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Jan 16 18:16:12 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 18:16:12 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [TR] New Forum
Message-ID: <20110117011612.54A4A2E092@bradakis.com>


After watching more football this weekend than I usually do,
I thought Team.Net folks might want to have a chance to talk
sports with other Team.Net folks, so I set up

http://www.team.net/forums/viewforum.php?f=16

We'll see if it becomes as popular as some of the
other forums there ;-)  Hey, I try.

Somedays I am tempted to just chuck all the email lists and go
strictly forum format, but there's too many old dogs who prefer
getting the lists in the same manner as they have for the last 20
years or so.

So basically you Cheeseheads out there now have a place
to whine next week when Da Bears get done with the Packers.

mjb.


From dlylis at gmail.com  Sun Jan 16 20:03:22 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 03:03:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity
In-Reply-To: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com>
References: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1561387571-1295233403-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1879077112-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

My advice is to pay no attention and fill until it runs back out of the fill hole. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 15:34:05 
To: Triumph car discussion Sports<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity

I am about to put new oil in my TR3A gearbox with overdrive.  When I look in my Haynes Workshop Manual it says under gearbox capacities:

	Gearbox - 1.5 pints
	Gearbox with O/D - 3.25 pints
	Drain & refill - 2.75 pints

Does the drain & refill cover both, or just the gearbox with overdrive???

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S 
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/





_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sun Jan 16 20:48:42 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 19:48:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity
In-Reply-To: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com>
References: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <951919.14197.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

id think the 2.75 pints is for the od box
and remeber those are british pints. like we drink our beer.
frank




________________________________
From: John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
To: Triumph car discussion Sports <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, January 16, 2011 12:34:05 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity

I am about to put new oil in my TR3A gearbox with overdrive.? When I look in my 
Haynes Workshop Manual it says under gearbox capacities:

??? Gearbox - 1.5 pints
??? Gearbox with O/D - 3.25 pints
??? Drain & refill - 2.75 pints

Does the drain & refill cover both, or just the gearbox with overdrive???

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S 
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/





_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Mon Jan 17 05:59:10 2011
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 07:59:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 floor mat
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5795.1295236109.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5795.1295236109.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <9628B9E6-E7BA-4AE4-8160-11F00B945CD1@mgcarclub.com>

My 63 (bought in 67) came with rubber mats. Maybe 4A came with carpet  
but I don't think 4s did. Have never seen any reproductions.

On Jan 16, 2011, at 10:48 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> On 1/16/11, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>> Anyone have a set of original snap in TR4 floor mats that run up the
>> footwell and attach to the clips?  TRF makes the ones for TR3 but  
>> not the
>> TR4 and I haven't seem them anywhere.
>
> I did not realize there was such a thing.  TR3s needed them as there
> was no carpet in that area.  TR4s came with carpet but I had not heard
> of an original mat.
>
> Geo


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Jan 17 06:14:33 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 08:14:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] New Forum
In-Reply-To: <20110117011612.54A4A2E092@bradakis.com>
References: <20110117011612.54A4A2E092@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <201101170814.34646.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, January 16, 2011 08:16:12 pm Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> After watching more football this weekend than I usually do,
> I thought Team.Net folks might want to have a chance to talk
> sports with other Team.Net folks, so I set up
> 
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewforum.php?f=16
> 
> We'll see if it becomes as popular as some of the
> other forums there ;-)  Hey, I try.
> 
> Somedays I am tempted to just chuck all the email lists and go
> strictly forum format, but there's too many old dogs who prefer
> getting the lists in the same manner as they have for the last 20
> years or so.
> 
> So basically you Cheeseheads out there now have a place
> to whine next week when Da Bears get done with the Packers.
> 
> mjb.
> 
Mark,

Not much a fan of football since the Browns left Cleveland. But I do watch 
hockey and baseball a bit.

As far as email vs. forum, whatever you choose is fine with me. I use both the 
list and forum.

As you know, the forum is best for posting photos and lengthly messages.


The 6-pack forum is popular, and has caused the email on the 6 list to drop to 
a trickle.

If you come to a point where we would have to choose, I would vote for forum 
since it offers what the list does + photos etc.

Bob

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jan 17 06:34:16 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 08:34:16 EST
Subject: [TR] TR4 runs rough
Message-ID: <118d2.4b56f4d5.3a659f58@cs.com>

In a message dated 1/16/2011 3:43:25 PM Central Standard Time, 
dbh at hamengr.com writes: 
> My TR4 misses under load after it warms up. I've changed wires, cap
> rotor..nothing..any ideas?
> 

Have you checked your spark plug gap?  I had the same symptom with the TR6 
and regapping the plugs resolved it.

Dave

From spamiam at comcast.net  Mon Jan 17 06:40:45 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 13:40:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 runs rough
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5796.1295236109.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1145792990.1418320.1295271645959.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

David, 

Weak spark such as a bad coil? Lean mixture, such as inadequate amount/excessively low viscosity dashpot oil? 

-Tony 


----- Original Message ----- 

Message: 5 
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 13:43:24 -0800 
From: "David B. Hammond" <dbh at hamengr.com> 
Subject: [TR] TR4 runs rough 
Cc: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Message-ID: <000601cbb5c6$679b1580$36d14080$@com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 

My TR4 misses under load after it warms up. I've changed wires, cap 
rotor..nothing..any ideas? 
David Hammond 
*************************************** 

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Mon Jan 17 08:06:50 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 07:06:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Wheel spects
Message-ID: <909489.88993.qm@web39409.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
1- Does anyone have the spects on what the 'OK range' is for disc wheels to have hop or wobble in them before it is decided to discard that wheel??? OR??? 
2- How bad or 'OUT OF ROUND'?does a?wheel have to be, before it is considered junk? 
-Cosmo Kramer


      

From j.honor at comcast.net  Mon Jan 17 10:18:53 2011
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 17:18:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4A: in need of accelerator shaft metal bushing
In-Reply-To: <2145688997.1390055.1295284673957.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1676087202.1390143.1295284733233.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Cliff, I have a '74 TR6 and used a new part produced by arthur lipp, used on bob danielson's TR6-check his site, I have found it to be both superior in performance compared to original & easy to install as compared to the busted knuckle bearing replacement on the TR6-if similar to the 6, I'd encourage your approaching Art about this. 
	"arthur lipp" lipp04 at yahoo.com 

Regards, Joe 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen at earthlink.net> 
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2011 6:29:58 PM 
Subject: [TR] TR4A: in need of accelerator shaft metal bushing 

Part # 120443, the metal sleeve that fits inside the nylon bearing. ?NLS from TRF, others don?t even list it. ?If anyone has a salvage part I?ll pay a fair price. ?If you want to sell the whole shaft assembly, let?s talk. 

If I can?t find a salvage part I suppose I could think about making one. 

Thanks in advance, 

Cliff 

66 TR4A 
_______________________________________________ 
Triumphs at autox.team.net 
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From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jan 17 10:40:37 2011
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 09:40:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 front floor mats
Message-ID: <545051.15770.qm@web80407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

"TR4s came with carpet but I had not heard of an original mat." This is 
inaccurate. TR4s were sold with rubber floor mats that snapped in and went from 
the front of the seats to up the foot-well. I have distinct memory of throwing 
away the worn out mats?in my '64 TR4?and replacing them & the?original grey 
(turned brown) rayon carpets with a cheap black carpet set from J C Whitney in 
the early 1970's.? There is no source of repro TR4 rubber floor mats that I know 
- a very scarce and seldom seen item.

The Roadster Factory, who did reproduce the TR3 rubber mats, had no interest in 
reproducing TR4 rubber mats due to low demand for TR3 mats, the last time we 
talked several years ago.?Maybe with the increased restoration of TR4s this will 
change.

brgds, Jay
Wheaton Illinois USA
'64 Triumph TR4 since '67

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Mon Jan 17 11:07:14 2011
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 19:07:14 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Hub Pedestal
In-Reply-To: <001201cbb5a0$196fc020$4c4f4060$@rr.com>
References: <LOBBKEDBINBGPLMEJOFNGEOGHBAA.61TR4ever@comcast.net><011f01cbb594$ea3a7d00$0301a8c0@randall>
	<001201cbb5a0$196fc020$4c4f4060$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <F4DB0068DC85456DA10FF2DFB6DACB9A@dbristerPC>


I have replaced my fan and extension with an electric affair ahead of the 
rad but have had a look at the pedestal on my shelf. There is definitely no 
sign of any machining or any marks which could be attributed to rubbing even 
occasionally on the steering rack. I used to keep a spare fan belt already 
inside the steering rack taped if memory serves (very dodgy nowadays) to the 
crossbar so it  could be immediately deployed.
ISTR that to squeeze the new belt between the rack and the fan shaft I would 
jack up a plank put under the sump. BTW I have been meaning to replacing the 
engine mountings for 30+ years!

Of course YMMV,

David Brister
1967 TR4A CTC77785 O 


From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Jan 17 11:26:27 2011
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 13:26:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
Message-ID: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success, we just 
gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the springs 
behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I think I 
always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very difficult. 
 I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is the 
handles back on. 
 
I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can buy  one? 
 Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose 
vise grips & needle nose pliers.
 
Thanks,
Darrell

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Jan 17 11:39:06 2011
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 13:39:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 front floor mats
Message-ID: <2f6e8.21ff3eff.3a65e6c9@aol.com>

Yes Jay,
I would like to buy two sets of TR4 mats.  I have seen like one car  with 
the mats as original.
Darrell
 

In a message dated 1/17/2011 12:40:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jholekamp at sbcglobal.net writes:


The  Roadster Factory, who did reproduce the TR3 rubber mats, had no 
interest in  
reproducing TR4 rubber mats due to low demand for TR3 mats, the last time  
we 
talked several years ago. Maybe with the increased restoration of  TR4s 
this will  
change.



From rpeglow at optonline.net  Mon Jan 17 11:52:16 2011
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 13:52:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
In-Reply-To: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAIZ/0lZBZ/dDhKbHRlfpuPsBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

Hello Darrell,
I used a cut down piece of a finishing nail that is a tiny bit narrower than
that barrel instead.
It went in easy and spring pressure keeps a hold on it, been working just
fine.
You might give it a try.
Regards,
Bob 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:26 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation

Hey Guys,
I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success, we just
gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the springs
behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I think I
always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very difficult.

 I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is the
handles back on. 
 
I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can buy  one? 
 Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose vise
grips & needle nose pliers.
 
Thanks,
Darrell
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net


From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon Jan 17 12:07:01 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 13:07:01 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
Message-ID: <1563235330.632937.1295291221225.JavaMail.root@vznit170076>

I used hemostats like Dr's use and no problem with my 72 TR6 doors.

Craig


Jan 17, 2011 01:52:48 PM, rpeglow at optonline.net wrote:

Hello Darrell,
I used a cut down piece of a finishing nail that is a tiny bit narrower than
that barrel instead.
It went in easy and spring pressure keeps a hold on it, been working just
fine.
You might give it a try.
Regards,
Bob 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:26 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation

Hey Guys,
I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping. No success, we just
gave up. Trying to get that little barrel into both holes with the springs
behind the door is impossible!!!!! I have done this before but I think I
always coped out and took the springs out. Then it is just very difficult.

I have the door glass replaced, the panel back on and all I need is the
handles back on. 

I hear there is a special tool for this. Anyone know where I can buy one? 
Any tips on how to make this job possible? I tried using needle nose vise
grips & needle nose pliers.

Thanks,
Darrell
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation $11.47
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From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jan 17 12:19:18 2011
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 11:19:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 front floor mats
In-Reply-To: <2f6e8.21ff3eff.3a65e6c9@aol.com>
References: <2f6e8.21ff3eff.3a65e6c9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <375673.37581.qm@web80406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Like Darrell, I'd also gladly buy?a set or two of TR4 rubber floor mats. We've 
both?probably seen the same?car with the single example of TR4 mats still in 
existence. They were flimsy and replaced early on with readily available carpet, 
which was a good?upgrade at the time. Originality (like door gaps) was a non 
issue then.

Perhaps if enough interest is shown, TRF will reproduce TR4 rubber floor mats.

brgds, Jay
'64 Triumph TR4 since '67




________________________________
From: "TR250Driver at aol.com" <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, January 17, 2011 12:39:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 front floor mats

Yes Jay,
I would like to buy two sets of TR4 mats.? I have seen like one car with the 
mats as original.
Darrell


In a message dated 1/17/2011 12:40:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
jholekamp at sbcglobal.net writes:

>The Roadster Factory, who did reproduce the TR3 rubber mats, had no interest in 

>reproducing TR4 rubber mats due to low demand for TR3 mats, the last time we 
>talked several years ago.?Maybe with the increased restoration of TR4s this will 
>
>change.
>
>

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Jan 17 12:29:00 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 14:29:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAIZ/0lZBZ/dDhKbHRlfpuPsBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAIZ/0lZBZ/dDhKbHRlfpuPsBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <563518A9DEBE401381C121E17350256F@BobPC>

I've never done it with the springs but here two techniques that work well.

1. Toward the end of this article are a few pictures 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm

2. The other involves a welding rod or thick wire hanger. Slide it through 
the handle to determine the length of a pin needed and score the rod/hanger 
with a wire cutter. Mount the handle to the door, slide the rod/wire in and 
wiggle it back and forth until it snaps. Both fixes are very easy to 
do.............at least without the spring.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:52 PM
To: TR250Driver at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation

Hello Darrell,
I used a cut down piece of a finishing nail that is a tiny bit narrower than
that barrel instead.
It went in easy and spring pressure keeps a hold on it, been working just
fine.
You might give it a try.
Regards,
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:26 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation

Hey Guys,
I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success, we just
gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the springs
behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I think I
always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very difficult.

I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is the
handles back on.

I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can buy  one?
Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose vise
grips & needle nose pliers.

Thanks,
Darrell
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

_______________________________________________
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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Jan 17 12:32:21 2011
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 11:32:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F11E113FB@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I use a long pair of hemostats I acquired many years ago - for another
purpose...
They can be clamped onto the end of the pin and used to squeeze into the
narrow space and into the hole.

Peter - 1971 TR6

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Jan 17 15:25:00 2011
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 17:25:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <74A4BC67B8FA404483BB15D285818C43@Alan>

I use a straight pick and tape the barrel to it with masking tape or 
electrical tape.
I use 1 or two flat blade screw drivers to hold the plastic piece down and 
put the barrel in place with the pick.


Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:26 PM
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation


> Hey Guys,
> I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success, we just
> gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the 
> springs
> behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I think I
> always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very 
> difficult.
> I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is the
> handles back on.
>
> I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can buy 
> one?
> Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose
> vise grips & needle nose pliers.
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6parts at charter.net
>
> 



From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon Jan 17 15:35:40 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 17:35:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 front floor mats
References: <545051.15770.qm@web80407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <473405E8589749A8A9840737B2B5BCF7@userb38463fba5>

I recall them from my TR4A too. Eventually they tore and were replaced with 
carpets. I'm an ex rubber molding guy and the biggest obstacle is the cost 
of a mold. The rubber and the molding process would be relatively 
inexpensive in comparison. The other issue would be getting them correct as 
there may not be any usable samples around to duplicate. I remember tossing 
mine once I placed the carpet but thinking whether I should hold on to them. 
Guess I should have done so. I wonder if the 4 and 4A are the same? I'm 
thinking they would be but no real proof that they are. Can anyone verify 
that? My TR4A parts book shows them as special order items so I assume that 
carpets were standard on 4A's. My personal experience does not confirm that 
however. P/N for right side is 708843 and for left is 708841.The parts 
manual shows them under the carpets but I don't recall that to be the case 
with my car. Memory is not so good as it once was either.
JVV
66 Triumph TR4A since 1969

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jay Holekamp" <jholekamp at sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 12:40 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 front floor mats


"TR4s came with carpet but I had not heard of an original mat." This is
inaccurate. TR4s were sold with rubber floor mats that snapped in and went 
from
the front of the seats to up the foot-well. I have distinct memory of 
throwing
away the worn out mats in my '64 TR4 and replacing them & the original grey
(turned brown) rayon carpets with a cheap black carpet set from J C Whitney 
in
the early 1970's. There is no source of repro TR4 rubber floor mats that I 
know
- a very scarce and seldom seen item.

The Roadster Factory, who did reproduce the TR3 rubber mats, had no interest 
in
reproducing TR4 rubber mats due to low demand for TR3 mats, the last time we
talked several years ago. Maybe with the increased restoration of TR4s this 
will
change.

brgds, Jay
Wheaton Illinois USA
'64 Triumph TR4 since '67


From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon Jan 17 15:43:37 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 17:43:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D7054CCA237745B39F7140CED57DFB09@userb38463fba5>

Darrell,

Try placing the pin in the hole of the handle and have it slightly protrude 
into the shaft hole in the handle before slipping it onto the shaft. With 
one hand holding the panel back against the spring and with a finger from 
the other hand on the end of the pin as you install the handle you'll feel 
the pin drop into the hole in the shaft. Once there use something larger 
than the pin to push it through the shaft. Bob's your Uncle.

JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:26 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation


> Hey Guys,
> I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success, we just
> gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the 
> springs
> behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I think I
> always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very 
> difficult.
> I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is the
> handles back on.
>
> I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can buy 
> one?
> Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose
> vise grips & needle nose pliers.
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Jan 17 15:48:23 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 15:48:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity
In-Reply-To: <1561387571-1295233403-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1879077112-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com>
	<1561387571-1295233403-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1879077112-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinWKfORitNAi5jrM3aiAi6ZjT6YL+pc=uEB9ueC@mail.gmail.com>

On 1/16/11, dlylis at gmail.com <dlylis at gmail.com> wrote:
> My advice is to pay no attention and fill until it runs back out of the fill
> hole.
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
> Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 15:34:05
> To: Triumph car discussion Sports<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity
>
> I am about to put new oil in my TR3A gearbox with overdrive.  When I look in
> my Haynes Workshop Manual it says under gearbox capacities:
>
> 	Gearbox - 1.5 pints
> 	Gearbox with O/D - 3.25 pints
> 	Drain & refill - 2.75 pints
>
> Does the drain & refill cover both, or just the gearbox with overdrive???
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Ormond Beach, FL
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
>

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Jan 17 15:52:33 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 15:52:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinWKfORitNAi5jrM3aiAi6ZjT6YL+pc=uEB9ueC@mail.gmail.com>
References: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com>
	<1561387571-1295233403-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1879077112-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<AANLkTinWKfORitNAi5jrM3aiAi6ZjT6YL+pc=uEB9ueC@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinTAe_9wrW38p64aLRpokxc_R2rsTqMnhyUk_yR@mail.gmail.com>

> On 1/16/11, dlylis at gmail.com <dlylis at gmail.com> wrote:
>> My advice is to pay no attention and fill until it runs back out of the
>> fill hole.

Sorry about the prior no-content reply.  What I was trying to say:

If you both drain thru the plug and undo and clean the big brass plug
you may find you need to fill as described, then run it a bit and fill
some more.  IOW, I don't think the oil finds its way back into the OD
unit until the thing has been run and you could get a false 'full'
read at the fill plug.

If this is not the case someone will straighten me out.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Jan 17 16:02:23 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 16:02:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 front floor mats
In-Reply-To: <473405E8589749A8A9840737B2B5BCF7@userb38463fba5>
References: <545051.15770.qm@web80407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<473405E8589749A8A9840737B2B5BCF7@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim4bq0QHy2=iOTN472i+uYw9Nc0SS3CVDkW5YQv@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for straightening me out on this.  Sure, I would get a set if &
when they get reproduced.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Jan 17 16:09:18 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 16:09:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
In-Reply-To: <D7054CCA237745B39F7140CED57DFB09@userb38463fba5>
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
	<D7054CCA237745B39F7140CED57DFB09@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikJ_Pk69jZChyVtqNU=ci+g=c3cFDnPiMEcYC24@mail.gmail.com>

I thought I used hemostats to do this but my wife informed me they
were forceps.  Geez, all I wanted was a helping hand in the garage,
not blinkin' scrub nurse.

What really helped was her standing against the outside of the door
and pressing the panel inward to give me lots of room to see & do the
pin insert.

Harbor Freight has them in their medical department:

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-1-2-half-inch-jumbo-straight-clamp-65709.html

Geo

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jan 17 16:36:19 2011
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 17:36:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
In-Reply-To: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <55A4751F-7E8C-4941-85D4-6ADFCCFCD10B@sbcglobal.net>

I have an old medical clamp that will hold the pin and is not much  
fatter. This will slip behind the handle when you push against the  
spring.

Berger Bob
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627
http://web.me.com/bobberger/Site/Photos/Photos.html





On Jan 17, 2011, at 12:26 PM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:

> Hey Guys,
> I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success,  
> we just
> gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the  
> springs
> behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I  
> think I
> always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very  
> difficult.
> I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is  
> the
> handles back on.
>
> I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can  
> buy  one?
> Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose
> vise grips & needle nose pliers.
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bberger720 at sbcglobal.net
>


From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Mon Jan 17 17:11:11 2011
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 16:11:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
References: <20110117011612.54A4A2E092@bradakis.com>
	<201101170814.34646.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <D2ABE2FF57114CCDA259F83C3A70BEB4@paulal73q2sjay>

Counterpoint to Bob.  I prefer the current Triumph email list over a forum 
format.  I like the fact that the list comes to me -  I don't have to go to 
it.  If I don't visit a forum for a few weeks or months, I miss all that 
information.  I'll usually only catch up on the last page or two of forum 
topics if I haven't visited for a while.

More importantly, with the list, I know that my questions go directly to 
everyone's inbox, increasing my chances of getting my problem solved timely.

Mark, we don't tell you enough, thank you for the administration of our 
lists.

Paulw
Torrance, CA
56 TR3
64 TR4

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 5:14 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] New Forum


> On Sunday, January 16, 2011 08:16:12 pm Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>> After watching more football this weekend than I usually do,
>> I thought Team.Net folks might want to have a chance to talk
>> sports with other Team.Net folks, so I set up
>>
>> http://www.team.net/forums/viewforum.php?f=16
>>
>> We'll see if it becomes as popular as some of the
>> other forums there ;-)  Hey, I try.
>>
>> Somedays I am tempted to just chuck all the email lists and go
>> strictly forum format, but there's too many old dogs who prefer
>> getting the lists in the same manner as they have for the last 20
>> years or so.
>>
>> So basically you Cheeseheads out there now have a place
>> to whine next week when Da Bears get done with the Packers.
>>
>> mjb.
>>
> Mark,
>
> Not much a fan of football since the Browns left Cleveland. But I do watch
> hockey and baseball a bit.
>
> As far as email vs. forum, whatever you choose is fine with me. I use both 
> the
> list and forum.
>
> As you know, the forum is best for posting photos and lengthly messages.
>
>
> The 6-pack forum is popular, and has caused the email on the 6 list to 
> drop to
> a trickle.
>
> If you come to a point where we would have to choose, I would vote for 
> forum
> since it offers what the list does + photos etc.
>
> Bob

> 



From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jan 17 17:23:35 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 00:23:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
In-Reply-To: <D2ABE2FF57114CCDA259F83C3A70BEB4@paulal73q2sjay>
Message-ID: <1691976597.1412180.1295310215011.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>


----- Original Message -----

> From: "Paul Willoughby" <paulwillou at socal.rr.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 6:11:11 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
> 
> Counterpoint to Bob.  I prefer the current Triumph email list over a
> forum 
> format.  I like the fact that the list comes to me -  I don't have to
> go to 
> it.  If I don't visit a forum for a few weeks or months, I miss all
> that 
> information.  I'll usually only catch up on the last page or two of
> forum 
> topics if I haven't visited for a while.
> 
> More importantly, with the list, I know that my questions go directly
> to 
> everyone's inbox, increasing my chances of getting my problem solved
> timely.
> 
> Mark, we don't tell you enough, thank you for the administration of
> our 
> lists.

I agree 100%.



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com



From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Jan 17 17:42:00 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 17:42:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
In-Reply-To: <D2ABE2FF57114CCDA259F83C3A70BEB4@paulal73q2sjay>
References: <20110117011612.54A4A2E092@bradakis.com><201101170814.34646.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<D2ABE2FF57114CCDA259F83C3A70BEB4@paulal73q2sjay>
Message-ID: <802A05F015F749AD8ABF277F9E7E68F4@bboffice>

I agree with Paul on both counts:

1. Prefer the email format, even with its limitations it gets to me at my
desk or iPhone
2. It is a new year and probably time to appreciate Mark monetarily for all
the work he does keeping this thing going.
3. Just in case you missed it at the bottom of every email:
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Thanks Mark!!

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Jan 17 17:50:24 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 18:50:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR3A_tranny_oil_capcity?=
Message-ID: <20110118004957.71960187644@autox.team.net>

My recollection is that the little epicyclic pump doesn't hold much.
If you are concerned, fill it, run it, check it.
R

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Date: Mon, Jan 17, 2011 16:52
Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity
To: "John Wise" <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>, "Triumph car discussion Sports" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>

> On 1/16/11, dlylis at gmail.com <dlylis at gmail.com> wrote:
>> My advice is to pay no attention and fill until it runs back out of the
>> fill hole.

Sorry about the prior no-content reply.  What I was trying to say:

If you both drain thru the plug and undo and clean the big brass plug
you may find you need to fill as described, then run it a bit and fill
some more.  IOW, I don't think the oil finds its way back into the OD
unit until the thing has been run and you could get a false 'full'
read at the fill plug.

If this is not the case someone will straighten me out.
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jan 17 19:31:34 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 18:31:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikJ_Pk69jZChyVtqNU=ci+g=c3cFDnPiMEcYC24@mail.gmail.com>
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com><D7054CCA237745B39F7140CED57DFB09@userb38463fba5>
	<AANLkTikJ_Pk69jZChyVtqNU=ci+g=c3cFDnPiMEcYC24@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00a901cbb6b7$d35f7530$0301a8c0@randall>

> I thought I used hemostats to do this but my wife informed me they
> were forceps.

Since hemostats are a type of forceps, perhaps you are both correct.

-- Randall  

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
> Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 3:09 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
> 
  Geez, all I wanted was a helping hand in the garage,
> not blinkin' scrub nurse.
> 
> What really helped was her standing against the outside of the door
> and pressing the panel inward to give me lots of room to see & do the
> pin insert.
> 
> Harbor Freight has them in their medical department:
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/10-1-2-half-inch-jumbo-straight-c
> lamp-65709.html
> 
> Geo
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com
> 


From dlylis at gmail.com  Mon Jan 17 20:03:37 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 03:03:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinTAe_9wrW38p64aLRpokxc_R2rsTqMnhyUk_yR@mail.gmail.com>
References: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com><1561387571-1295233403-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1879077112-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><AANLkTinWKfORitNAi5jrM3aiAi6ZjT6YL+pc=uEB9ueC@mail.gmail.com><AANLkTinTAe_9wrW38p64aLRpokxc_R2rsTqMnhyUk_yR@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1794275960-1295319818-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-888795475-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have found that if you fill until it runs out of the fill hole and then close your eyes and take a nap, once you awaken you can top it off again. Also, your wife doesn't bother you because she thinks you are working on the car. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 15:52:33 
To: John Wise<tr3a.60 at gmail.com>; Triumph car discussion Sports<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity

> On 1/16/11, dlylis at gmail.com <dlylis at gmail.com> wrote:
>> My advice is to pay no attention and fill until it runs back out of the
>> fill hole.

Sorry about the prior no-content reply.  What I was trying to say:

If you both drain thru the plug and undo and clean the big brass plug
you may find you need to fill as described, then run it a bit and fill
some more.  IOW, I don't think the oil finds its way back into the OD
unit until the thing has been run and you could get a false 'full'
read at the fill plug.

If this is not the case someone will straighten me out.
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Mon Jan 17 20:17:31 2011
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 19:17:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation - no LBC
In-Reply-To: <00a901cbb6b7$d35f7530$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com><D7054CCA237745B39F7140CED57DFB09@userb38463fba5>	<AANLkTikJ_Pk69jZChyVtqNU=ci+g=c3cFDnPiMEcYC24@mail.gmail.com>
	<00a901cbb6b7$d35f7530$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <003a01cbb6be$3ece4ca0$bc6ae5e0$@rr.com>

My understanding was that hemostats lock closed, but forceps don't. Thus,
hemostats were the roach-clip of choice by hippies back in the '60's. 

I have no direct knowledge though, somebody told me :) 

Johnnie

> 
> > I thought I used hemostats to do this but my wife informed me they
> > were forceps.
> 
> Since hemostats are a type of forceps, perhaps you are both correct.
> 
> -- Randall
>   Geez, all I wanted was a helping hand in the garage,
> > not blinkin' scrub nurse.
> >
> > What really helped was her standing against the outside of the door
> > and pressing the panel inward to give me lots of room to see & do the
> > pin insert.
> >
> > Harbor Freight has them in their medical department:
> >
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/10-1-2-half-inch-jumbo-straight-c
> > lamp-65709.html
> >
> > Geo


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jan 17 20:22:01 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 19:22:01 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A tranny oil capcity
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinTAe_9wrW38p64aLRpokxc_R2rsTqMnhyUk_yR@mail.gmail.com>
References: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com><1561387571-1295233403-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1879077112-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><AANLkTinWKfORitNAi5jrM3aiAi6ZjT6YL+pc=uEB9ueC@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTinTAe_9wrW38p64aLRpokxc_R2rsTqMnhyUk_yR@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00b601cbb6be$dfa95890$0301a8c0@randall>

> If you both drain thru the plug and undo and clean the big brass plug
> you may find you need to fill as described, then run it a bit and fill
> some more. 

I find that just letting it sit for a while is sufficient.  The opening
between tranny & OD isn't very large, so it takes some time for the levels
to equalize.

-- Randall  


From dlylis at gmail.com  Mon Jan 17 20:31:37 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 03:31:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation - no LBC
In-Reply-To: <003a01cbb6be$3ece4ca0$bc6ae5e0$@rr.com>
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com><D7054CCA237745B39F7140CED57DFB09@userb38463fba5>	<AANLkTikJ_Pk69jZChyVtqNU=ci+g=c3cFDnPiMEcYC24@mail.gmail.com><00a901cbb6b7$d35f7530$0301a8c0@randall><003a01cbb6be$3ece4ca0$bc6ae5e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <437583802-1295321497-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1023994128-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Must be the same person that told me. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 19:17:31 
To: 'Triumphs'<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation - no LBC

My understanding was that hemostats lock closed, but forceps don't. Thus,
hemostats were the roach-clip of choice by hippies back in the '60's. 

I have no direct knowledge though, somebody told me :) 

Johnnie

> 
> > I thought I used hemostats to do this but my wife informed me they
> > were forceps.
> 
> Since hemostats are a type of forceps, perhaps you are both correct.
> 
> -- Randall
>   Geez, all I wanted was a helping hand in the garage,
> > not blinkin' scrub nurse.
> >
> > What really helped was her standing against the outside of the door
> > and pressing the panel inward to give me lots of room to see & do the
> > pin insert.
> >
> > Harbor Freight has them in their medical department:
> >
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/10-1-2-half-inch-jumbo-straight-c
> > lamp-65709.html
> >
> > Geo

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jan 17 20:37:17 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 19:37:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wheel spects
In-Reply-To: <909489.88993.qm@web39409.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <909489.88993.qm@web39409.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00ba01cbb6c1$01899bd0$0301a8c0@randall>

> 1- Does anyone have the spects on what the 'OK range' is for 
> disc wheels to have hop or wobble

To some extent, it depends on what you are willing to live with.  But my TR3
manual says 3/32" (.094") in either dimension.

-- Randall  


From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Jan 17 20:49:53 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 21:49:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  TR3A tranny oil capcity
In-Reply-To: <00b601cbb6be$dfa95890$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <99510E1F-879D-4348-9398-7B711DB3E050@gmail.com><1561387571-1295233403-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1879077112-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><AANLkTinWKfORitNAi5jrM3aiAi6ZjT6YL+pc=uEB9ueC@mail.gmail.com><AANLkTinTAe_9wrW38p64aLRpokxc_R2rsTqMnhyUk_yR@mail.gmail.com>
	<00b601cbb6be$dfa95890$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <0CE086E3DB1E4690BF6790004C7C8699@ranteer.local>

?
I was told to jack the front of the car up so that the oil ran back into the od unit.  then when you drive it the extra just flows out and becomes part of the general rust preventative system of the car

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Tue Jan 18 06:29:13 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 05:29:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Hub races are parallel?
Message-ID: <480361.23543.qm@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi list!
I first want to thank all of you who replied to my question about wheels. 
?
Now my next question is: 
Is there a way, or how do I check, to see if my front hub Wheel Bearing Races are parallel to each other?
?
The reason is:
I'm having many people telling me that?LF wheel has a bad wobble. I've tried installing another wheel on it place & was told that that wheel has a 'slight' wobble in it. (But the 1st wheel & was moving around 65MPH & the 2nd wheel I was only moving at 45 MPH). Being that I'm still getting a wobble, makes me think that it's NOT to wheels, but something else.
?
Yes, I should have switch wheels from left to right & vice verse, because I was told the RF wheel looked good; BUT, I was running out of 'good' weather before the snow started to fly.?Before I go into much more work on the Garage Queen (GQ), I will try to do just that. Thus, I will have a better idea if it's the wheel or something else wrong on the?FL side of the GQ. 
?
Thanks again for all the input, & I'm hoping to hear from the list, again.
-Cosmo Kramer


      

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Tue Jan 18 07:28:33 2011
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 08:28:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
In-Reply-To: <802A05F015F749AD8ABF277F9E7E68F4@bboffice>
References: <20110117011612.54A4A2E092@bradakis.com>
	<201101170814.34646.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<D2ABE2FF57114CCDA259F83C3A70BEB4@paulal73q2sjay>
	<802A05F015F749AD8ABF277F9E7E68F4@bboffice>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimaNsBffcdOnHmv72brqjHwwYKYUEFsXS2iZteJ@mail.gmail.com>

I guess I prefer the email format too.  Mainly because it puts all the
various groups I like to keep up on in one place, my inbox.  I find
that it is too much of a hassle to go to all the different forums and
scan through all the differnet topics to see if there is something
interesting.  I gave up on several groups when they abandoned the
email list and went forum only.

On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 6:42 PM,  <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> I agree with Paul on both counts:
>
> 1. Prefer the email format, even with its limitations it gets to me at my
> desk or iPhone
> 2. It is a new year and probably time to appreciate Mark monetarily for all
> the work he does keeping this thing going.
> 3. Just in case you missed it at the bottom of every email:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Thanks Mark!!
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L ?"Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation ?$11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>



-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you?? =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown? =
=================================

From trglory at verizon.net  Tue Jan 18 08:46:16 2011
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 10:46:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimaNsBffcdOnHmv72brqjHwwYKYUEFsXS2iZteJ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20110117011612.54A4A2E092@bradakis.com>
	<201101170814.34646.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<D2ABE2FF57114CCDA259F83C3A70BEB4@paulal73q2sjay>
	<802A05F015F749AD8ABF277F9E7E68F4@bboffice>
	<AANLkTimaNsBffcdOnHmv72brqjHwwYKYUEFsXS2iZteJ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003f01cbb726$d8451f40$88cf5dc0$@net>

Count me in with the rest of the troglodytes. It may not be pretty but it's
convenient.

I'll probably be the last lister standing.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Innis
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 9:29 AM
To: wbeech at flash.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum

I guess I prefer the email format too.  Mainly because it puts all the
various groups I like to keep up on in one place, my inbox.  I find
that it is too much of a hassle to go to all the different forums and
scan through all the differnet topics to see if there is something
interesting.  I gave up on several groups when they abandoned the
email list and went forum only.

On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 6:42 PM,  <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> I agree with Paul on both counts:
>
> 1. Prefer the email format, even with its limitations it gets to me at my
> desk or iPhone
> 2. It is a new year and probably time to appreciate Mark monetarily for
all
> the work he does keeping this thing going.
> 3. Just in case you missed it at the bottom of every email:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Thanks Mark!!
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L ?"Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Jan 18 09:07:07 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 08:07:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
In-Reply-To: <003f01cbb726$d8451f40$88cf5dc0$@net>
References: <20110117011612.54A4A2E092@bradakis.com>
	<201101170814.34646.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<D2ABE2FF57114CCDA259F83C3A70BEB4@paulal73q2sjay>
	<802A05F015F749AD8ABF277F9E7E68F4@bboffice>
	<AANLkTimaNsBffcdOnHmv72brqjHwwYKYUEFsXS2iZteJ@mail.gmail.com>
	<003f01cbb726$d8451f40$88cf5dc0$@net>
Message-ID: <966948.62571.qm@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i like things just the way they are.
Frank Fisher


      

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Jan 18 09:40:04 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 09:40:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hub races are parallel?
In-Reply-To: <480361.23543.qm@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <480361.23543.qm@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F3E23DA7F923415AAFAC8A079D5F7CDE@bboffice>

Cosmo,

I went through much the same trying to figure out if my wobble problem was
the wire wheels, the hubs, the rotors or the spindle/race assembly.  You can
get a clamping dial indicator at Harbor Freight(Item #93051) for about $30
that is easy to set-up and use (NFI).  I started from the brake rotor and
worked my way out to the hubs then the rims.

This is a lot better than trying to drive the car and have someone follow
you and estimate the "wobble".  Wobbles are real strange, even a slightly
bent rim on the back can make you think you have a problem on the front.

Good luck,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 6:29 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Hub races are parallel?

Hi list!
I first want to thank all of you who replied to my question about wheels. 
?
Now my next question is: 
Is there a way, or how do I check, to see if my front hub Wheel Bearing
Races are parallel to each other?
?
The reason is:
I'm having many people telling me that?LF wheel has a bad wobble. I've tried
installing another wheel on it place & was told that that wheel has a
'slight' wobble in it. (But the 1st wheel & was moving around 65MPH & the
2nd wheel I was only moving at 45 MPH). Being that I'm still getting a
wobble, makes me think that it's NOT to wheels, but something else.
?
Yes, I should have switch wheels from left to right & vice verse, because I
was told the RF wheel looked good; BUT, I was running out of 'good' weather
before the snow started to fly.?Before I go into much more work on the
Garage Queen (GQ), I will try to do just that. Thus, I will have a better
idea if it's the wheel or something else wrong on the?FL side of the GQ. 
?
Thanks again for all the input, & I'm hoping to hear from the list, again.
-Cosmo Kramer


      
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Jan 18 10:17:03 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 11:17:03 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Hub races are parallel?
Message-ID: <463600294.28280.1295371024148.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>


Good to know.  thanks Bill.

Jan 18, 2011 04:41:44 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote:

Cosmo,

I went through much the same trying to figure out if my wobble problem was
the wire wheels, the hubs, the rotors or the spindle/race assembly. You can
get a clamping dial indicator at Harbor Freight(Item #93051) for about $30
that is easy to set-up and use (NFI). I started from the brake rotor and
worked my way out to the hubs then the rims.

This is a lot better than trying to drive the car and have someone follow
you and estimate the "wobble". Wobbles are real strange, even a slightly
bent rim on the back can make you think you have a problem on the front.

Good luck,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 6:29 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Hub races are parallel?

Hi list!
I first want to thank all of you who replied to my question about wheels. 
 
Now my next question is: 
Is there a way, or how do I check, to see if my front hub Wheel Bearing
Races are parallel to each other?
 
The reason is:
I'm having many people telling me that LF wheel has a bad wobble. I've tried
installing another wheel on it place & was told that that wheel has a
'slight' wobble in it. (But the 1st wheel & was moving around 65MPH & the
2nd wheel I was only moving at 45 MPH). Being that I'm still getting a
wobble, makes me think that it's NOT to wheels, but something else.
 
Yes, I should have switch wheels from left to right & vice verse, because I
was told the RF wheel looked good; BUT, I was running out of 'good' weather
before the snow started to fly. Before I go into much more work on the
Garage Queen (GQ), I will try to do just that. Thus, I will have a better
idea if it's the wheel or something else wrong on the FL side of the GQ. 
 
Thanks again for all the input, & I'm hoping to hear from the list, again.
-Cosmo Kramer



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jan 18 11:06:07 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 10:06:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] Hub races are parallel?
In-Reply-To: <F3E23DA7F923415AAFAC8A079D5F7CDE@bboffice>
References: <480361.23543.qm@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<F3E23DA7F923415AAFAC8A079D5F7CDE@bboffice>
Message-ID: <016a01cbb73a$61a99140$0301a8c0@randall>


> You can
> get a clamping dial indicator at Harbor Freight(Item #93051) 
> for about $30
> that is easy to set-up and use (NFI). 

Here's a photo of my setup.  However, I had to use a much longer rod to
mount the indicator, as the only solid surface on my bench vise was too far
away otherwise.
http://tinyurl.com/6euykj6

I got my dial indicator and base at Enco, who I feel are just slightly above
HF for quality and frequently have a base and indicator set on sale for
under $20:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=392&PARTPG=INLMK32
(P/N 505-1848 in the lower left corner is currently on "web special" for
$16.95)

> I started from the 
> brake rotor and
> worked my way out to the hubs then the rims.

IMO, you should start with the hub first.  If the hub is true but the rotor
is not, then you can work on the hub/rotor joint to improve things.  But if
the hub is off, you need to correct that first before worrying about the
rotor.  I found that even some brand-new aftermarket hubs had significant
runout, as well as most of the original hubs I tried.  

But in at least one case, I discovered that there was a slight 'divot' in
the bearing bore that was causing the problem.  Removing the race and
smoothing out the high area around the divot (no doubt damage from a
previous bearing removal) reduced the hub face runout to almost nothing.

Also worth noting, perhaps, that I found significant balance problems with
many of the brake rotors, including a brand new set that I've had on the
shelf for many years.  I first noticed the issue when I jacked the car up
and one of the front wheels actually turned by itself (!), but testing on
the bench proved that it was the rotor that was out of balance (hub/rotor
would turn under it's own weight; hub alone would not).  I also tried
turning the rotor 180 degrees relative to the hub, and the heavy spot
followed (more or less) the rotor position.

-- Randall  


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jan 18 11:48:32 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 13:48:32 EST
Subject: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
Message-ID: <4806c.65ba708d.3a673a80@cs.com>

In a message dated 1/18/2011 9:46:31 AM Central Standard Time, 
trglory at verizon.net writes: 
> Count me in with the rest of the troglodytes. It may not be pretty but 
> it's
> convenient.
> 
> I'll probably be the last lister standing.
> 
No you won't.  I'll be the one turning off the light.

Dave

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jan 18 12:15:22 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 19:15:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
In-Reply-To: <4806c.65ba708d.3a673a80@cs.com>
Message-ID: <915192871.1452738.1295378122331.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I'll be there, too.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 12:48:32 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
> 
> In a message dated 1/18/2011 9:46:31 AM Central Standard Time, 
> trglory at verizon.net writes: 
> > Count me in with the rest of the troglodytes. It may not be pretty
> but 
> > it's
> > convenient.
> > 
> > I'll probably be the last lister standing.
> > 
> No you won't.  I'll be the one turning off the light.
> 
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Jan 18 19:39:46 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 20:39:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Griot's waterless car wash
In-Reply-To: <639992.9377.qm@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <639992.9377.qm@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BBBCBEA8808C4C3F9A4B9A3F2057DE71@ranteer.local>

?has anyone used this?  they?ve got it on sale and I?ve been thinking about getting it

From hupshall at triumphcars.com  Tue Jan 18 21:36:43 2011
From: hupshall at triumphcars.com (Huw Upshall)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 20:36:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] WA residents - Proposed changes to the Collector Plate law
Message-ID: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E371F@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>

For residents of Washington State (WA) who have collector plates on their cars:

There is a bill in the house that is attempting to change the law to require an annual renewal fee of $30 for classic/antique plates

Bill info here:

http://apps.leg.wa.gov/billinfo/summary.aspx?year=2011&bill=1134

Contact your representative and let them know your opinion...

-Huw

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Jan 19 04:49:31 2011
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 04:49:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
In-Reply-To: <4806c.65ba708d.3a673a80@cs.com>
References: <4806c.65ba708d.3a673a80@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4D36CFCB.60003@gmail.com>

There are a few of us here who crossed the straights from rec.autos to 
the new world and became original members of the British car list when 
it was first started at Apollo Computer.  Then migrated farther South at 
the founding of the Triumph list.

Those of us who have made those migrations  and are still here will 
likely still be standing around holding flashlights when the lights get 
turned off.

Teriann

Who can't believe her TR is 50 years old already (51 if you go by the 
build date and not model year sold as)
>> Count me in with the rest of the troglodytes. It may not be pretty but
>> it's convenient.
>>
>> I'll probably be the last lister standing.
>>      
> No you won't.  I'll be the one turning off the light.
>    


From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed Jan 19 05:21:17 2011
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 07:21:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] e-mail or forum
Message-ID: <14081007D2F6456E9613CF302812E09E@D6254Z51>

To the List -

I am a new member of the list (less than 6 months) and find that questions that are posted are answered quickly and to the point. I enjoy seeing the wealth of knowledge shared by members as well as the well-mannered, gentle responses to those who are probably over their head in their mechanical endeavors. I have visited some forums, diesel Dodges to antique tractors, and find there is just too much volume of information to sort through. I like the idea of posing a problem, knowing that I will probably see a response within hours. Also, I don't need to be entertained with the excessive number of smiley faces and other animations I have seen on some forums. Thanks to all who make this work, and especially to our administrator. Let's keep it going.

Alex Thomson
73 TR-6
71 GT-6

From allegrorover at mac.com  Wed Jan 19 05:49:34 2011
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 07:49:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] WA residents - Proposed changes to the Collector Plate law
In-Reply-To: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E371F@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
References: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E371F@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
Message-ID: <220B7D76-1AC8-4E86-9D9B-4B8433BF134C@mac.com>

They did the exact same thing here in Georgia, I had no idea until my renewal came in. I've got regular street plates on the car now.
I spoke to the insurance company and they have no problem with it as long as it's properly registered.
I guess it's one way for the states to raise revenue. I just need to find a way to raise mine as well.



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489



From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Jan 19 05:54:58 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 07:54:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] WA residents - Proposed changes to the Collector Plate law
In-Reply-To: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E371F@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
References: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E371F@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
Message-ID: <201101190754.59332.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday, January 18, 2011 11:36:43 pm Huw Upshall wrote:
> For residents of Washington State (WA) who have collector plates on their
> cars:
> 
> There is a bill in the house that is attempting to change the law to
> require an annual renewal fee of $30 for classic/antique plates
> 
> Bill info here:
> 
> http://apps.leg.wa.gov/billinfo/summary.aspx?year=2011&bill=1134
> 
> Contact your representative and let them know your opinion...
> 
> -Huw
We already have that fee here in NY. I believe it is even more $ if you get a 
period plate. Last year our county also added a 10$ annual fee to every 
registration, car, motorcycle, trailer. So here I am with 3 TRs, 2 cycles, a 
pop-up and our everyday cars that adds 80$ every year. On top of that we have 
the highest sales tax in the US.

New Jersey tried to get a bill passed that required a 10$ plate fee for every 
bicycle. If caught without the plate there would be a 100$ fine. So little 
Johnny would be out riding his bike and be pulled over by the cops and marched 
off to jail if he didn't cough up the 10$. Did I mention that Johnny is only 8 
years old?

Next it will be a tax stamp for my running sneakers with a GPS chip attached 
so I pay per mile.

Did I say I was moving out of NYS soon after retirement?

Bob

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Wed Jan 19 06:03:34 2011
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 08:03:34 EST
Subject: [TR] Griot's waterless car wash
Message-ID: <7b226.24521dff.3a683b26@aol.com>

Hi Dave;
 
I have not specifically used that brand, but I do have experience of  
waterless car washes in general.
 
While I worked for the UK headquarters of Porsche and, later, Volvo, we  
experimented with several brands. None of them dissolved the dirt sufficiently 
 to prevent micro scratching. Since, I have read reports in classic car 
magazines  that say the same thing.
 
In addition to our TR3A, we also own a 1965 Volvo PV544 Sport, which is in  
near-perfect condition except for micro-scratching all over it that I 
failed to  notice when I was buying the car. The previous owner is a waterless 
car wash  dealer and swears by it. He often used the waterless car wash 
products on the  Volvo but I am completely convinced this has caused the micro 
scratching.
 
Tim
 
Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
Professional growers of quality tree  seedlings and distinctive perennials 
in the Ottawa, Canada area.
_www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 


Proud  members of Landscape Ontario, Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society and several horticultural  societies.

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Jan 19 06:26:09 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 08:26:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] WA residents - Proposed changes to the Collector Plate law
In-Reply-To: <201101190754.59332.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E371F@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
	<201101190754.59332.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <93EB23170615464EB4F4688C77BEE3CD@BobPC>

You might want to check (and bookmark) the SEMA site section 
(http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?id=62843) that deals with 
registration, tags, titles etc. on a state by state basis. It even has the 
Canadian provinces. Heck....it even lists what state legislators support our 
hobby and which ones don't.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs



-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2011 7:54 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] WA residents - Proposed changes to the Collector Plate law

On Tuesday, January 18, 2011 11:36:43 pm Huw Upshall wrote:
> For residents of Washington State (WA) who have collector plates on their
> cars:
>
> There is a bill in the house that is attempting to change the law to
> require an annual renewal fee of $30 for classic/antique plates
>
> Bill info here:
>
> http://apps.leg.wa.gov/billinfo/summary.aspx?year=2011&bill=1134
>
> Contact your representative and let them know your opinion...
>
> -Huw
We already have that fee here in NY. I believe it is even more $ if you get 
a
period plate. Last year our county also added a 10$ annual fee to every
registration, car, motorcycle, trailer. So here I am with 3 TRs, 2 cycles, a
pop-up and our everyday cars that adds 80$ every year. On top of that we 
have
the highest sales tax in the US.

New Jersey tried to get a bill passed that required a 10$ plate fee for 
every
bicycle. If caught without the plate there would be a 100$ fine. So little
Johnny would be out riding his bike and be pulled over by the cops and 
marched
off to jail if he didn't cough up the 10$. Did I mention that Johnny is only 
8
years old?

Next it will be a tax stamp for my running sneakers with a GPS chip attached
so I pay per mile.

Did I say I was moving out of NYS soon after retirement?

Bob
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Jan 19 07:14:56 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 09:14:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] WA residents - Proposed changes to the Collector Plate law
In-Reply-To: <201101190754.59332.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E371F@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
	<201101190754.59332.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <8CD85FA61BB7ECF-11BC-C090@webmail-d046.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>

> We already have that fee here in NY. I believe it is even more $ if 
you get a
period plate.

==AM==
Yes, there's always been a fee for "Historical" registrations in New 
York. But once you get past initial registration of the vehicle with 
either State-issued Historical plates or Year-of-Manufacture plates 
(that you provide), it's the same yearly fee of $28.75 for either type 
of plate.


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Jan 19 07:54:37 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 07:54:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] e-mail or forum
In-Reply-To: <14081007D2F6456E9613CF302812E09E@D6254Z51>
References: <14081007D2F6456E9613CF302812E09E@D6254Z51>
Message-ID: <4D36FB2D.4090904@bradakis.com>

Don't worry folks, the email lists won't be going away.
Every now and then I say things like that, sometimes I
think about just shutting it all down.  But the lights
won't be getting turned off, especially thanks to those
who donated a bit to help cover the power bill.

mjb.



From jhmdds at aol.com  Wed Jan 19 12:43:40 2011
From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 14:43:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 7 exhaust system
Message-ID: <8CD86284EC83E76-808-1520@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com>



Last weekend I tried to get my 1980 TR7V8 inspected.  This car has been highly modified.  The exhaust consists of headers on each side of the engine that flow into separate downpipes, mufflers and exhaust pipes that exit in front of the rear tires.  The guy at the inspection station said that if there were no catalytic converters, it would not pass NC inspection.  Well of course there aren't any so now I'm looking for small converters.

I have two questions: Did the 1980 TR7 have a catalytic converter as standard equipment?  and Does anyone have a suggestion about small catalytic converters for a very cramped space?

By the way the V8 is a Pontiac 400cc out of a Formula.

Thanks,

James Maddox 



From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jan 19 12:48:17 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 19:48:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] WA residents - Proposed changes to the Collector Plate law
In-Reply-To: <1552777.1516760.1295466116275.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1375071299.1517156.1295466497077.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Knock on wood, we still have no renewals required on Collector plates in Minnesota.  Sam ting for Year-of-Manufacture plates that you provide.

This is especially cool for vanity plates:  Regular-car plates are replaced every 7 years and you need to pay the $100 vanity charge again.  Vanity collector plates never have to be renewed, so your first $100 could last forever.  I hope uncle jack lasts forever, and UNCJACK lasts forever.

I was sure sorry to see the cars go, but the plates TR44SUE and 74PHIL are in my basement.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/4940540946/in/set-72157624715751365/

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald at aol.com>
> To: yellowtr at adelphia.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2011 8:14:56 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] WA residents - Proposed changes to the Collector Plate law

> ==AM==
> Yes, there's always been a fee for "Historical" registrations in New 
> York. But once you get past initial registration of the vehicle with 
> either State-issued Historical plates or Year-of-Manufacture plates 
> (that you provide), it's the same yearly fee of $28.75 for either type
> 
> of plate.

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Wed Jan 19 14:08:31 2011
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 13:08:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Steering rack
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=Lm77wTq41Tuc1B3OHgmeKj5x-2Pv94OFo0OtC@mail.gmail.com>

Groan....

I'm in the midst of a front suspension rebuild - not meant to include the
rack - only to discover that the rack can be twisted maybe one degree each
way, clockwise and counter clockwise. I'm hoping this does not mean that the
gearing in the rack and pinion body is shot. This is a high mileage car so I
guess i shouldn't be surprised. Thank you, as usual, for your advice.

John Howard

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jan 19 14:51:34 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 21:51:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Griot's waterless car wash
In-Reply-To: <BBBCBEA8808C4C3F9A4B9A3F2057DE71@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <1850343841.1525270.1295473894326.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

It seems like the perfect product for cars that don't really need washing.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 8:39:46 PM
> Subject: [TR] Griot's waterless car wash
> 
> ?has anyone used this?  they?ve got it on sale and I?ve been thinking
> about getting it

From guy at genfiniti.com  Wed Jan 19 15:40:46 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 16:40:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A - PCV Question
Message-ID: <5B28DE52-FDA7-415F-9DAE-A9A74C7FF7EC@genfiniti.com>

All,

I've got a quick question regarding the PCV unit on the TR4A.
Inside it has a diaphragm sitting atop a spring.
It seems like something should be between these two parts.  Is that so?

Also, how does this thing work?
I know its purpose is to pull excess air from the crankcase and recycle it into the intake manifold.
Is that flow supposed to create some sort of vacuum, actuating the spring, moving the diaphragm?
Any explanation would help.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Jan 19 16:00:34 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 18:00:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR250 suspension question
In-Reply-To: <1850343841.1525270.1295473894326.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <BBBCBEA8808C4C3F9A4B9A3F2057DE71@ranteer.local>
	<1850343841.1525270.1295473894326.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <882EB54E83514278AA3A7C62329BE49D@DCH6RFC1>

A question for the cognoscenti :-)

How much "spring" should there be in the lower A arms? (the car is a TR250,
but I imagine it also holds true for others)  If I attach them to the frame,
I have about a quarter-inch gap either side of the trunnion on the passenger
side.  The gap is minimal on the driver's side.  The converse is also true:
If I build the suspension on the bench and present it to the car, some
effort is required to attach and tighten them.  I should add that all parts
are new and I am using neoprene bushings.

Perhaps I am being too obsessive here - and the fix would presumably require
frame alterations - but before I "tighten it all up", I'd be interested in
your collective thoughts.

Andrew Uprichard
TCF 191L (TR3B) 6 years post-restoration
CD 8433 L (TR250) probably 6 years to go



From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Jan 19 16:05:02 2011
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 16:05:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] WA residents - Proposed changes to the Collector Plate law
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1295463601.18414.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1295463601.18414.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <305D8CC7-2F6F-4489-8FD9-2C5C20C180FB@telus.net>


Here in Alberta, collector car registration is a one time continuing  
registration. When I registered the TR6 the fee was $25.00, though I  
think it is a bit higher now. You get a 4 digit plate (as opposed to  
3 letters, 4 digits ) and a "fleet" sticker.   No renewals required.   
Provincial law allows you to register and display a vintage plate but  
you must first register as a vintage vehicle (25 years old.  1986  
hardly seems "antique".)

Trailers have a one time registration, again mine was $25.00 though  
it may be higher now.

Of course, we are a bit of a "rogue" province full or roughnecks (no,  
that's not french for rednecks though it may as well be) and cowboys,  
real and otherwise.


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jan 19 16:39:11 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 15:39:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR 7 exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <8CD86284EC83E76-808-1520@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CD86284EC83E76-808-1520@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <016401cbb832$134cd8b0$0301a8c0@randall>

> The guy at the inspection station said that 
> if there were no catalytic converters, it would not pass NC 
> inspection.

More importantly, would it pass if it had cats on it?  I don't know what the
NC inspection involves, but it would almost certainly take more than just
bolting on some cats to get it to pass the CA tailpipe sniffer test, even
before they started using a treadmill (dyno).  Ditto the EGR function test.
My point is that you might want to investigate more carefully before
spending a lot of money on a car that won't pass anyway.

> I have two questions: Did the 1980 TR7 have a catalytic 
> converter as standard equipment? 

Certainly US models did.

> Does anyone have a 
> suggestion about small catalytic converters for a very cramped space?

My suggestion would be to find a local muffler shop and let them see the
problem.  AFAIK the "universal replacement" cats have been outlawed, but
they would probably know of a stock cat that would fit.  Worst case, you
might have to put the cats where your mufflers currently are, and use some
sort of thin glasspack muffler in a different location.

> By the way the V8 is a Pontiac 400cc out of a Formula.

My 2 cylinder motorcycle was 400cc; maybe you mean 400ci ?
<G>

-- Randall  


From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Wed Jan 19 20:01:39 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 19:01:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Wheel wobble/ Bearing race Cups?
Message-ID: <885051.45801.qm@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
?
OK, now that I started this thread & have replied to 99.9% of them. Here is what I have:
9 wheels in total (5 with tyres & 4 just rims). I've gone to a club member's house & we checked out all of them. I then found out that 3/32" is within the spects?of hop (up & down) & wobble (side to side). Wheel?hop?is more of a concern than wheel wobble when worring about the wheel's roundness, to effect the ride of the car.
?
Then I asked about how to check out the front hub's Bearing Race Cups to be parallel. Most people replied: to use a dial indicator on a base (magenet or clamp) to check the hub's 'roll out'.
?
BUT I questioned this method because if the hub's Bearing Race Cups are NOT mounted into the hub parallel, then I feel that you will be getting a reading of wobble; when the hub unit, it self, doesen't have a wobble or warpness?at all.
?
I have not done ANYTHING yet, except to check out each rim's bead on the left side & right side of each wheel in what I feel was a crude way. BUT! It DID give me more input on my problem than what I started with.
?
So this is a summary & I'm still in a quandary on how, SPECIFACIALY, do I? know if my hub's race cups are parralel after?I use the dial indicator?
?
Thank You for all the replies, but I'm still needing more help. TIA
-Cosmo Kramer


      

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Wed Jan 19 20:09:21 2011
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 22:09:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wheel wobble/ Bearing race Cups?
In-Reply-To: <885051.45801.qm@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <885051.45801.qm@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <35D2131F89E349D9A4E88571AB3F0B21@AlexPC>

Not sure you have this capability, but mounting the hub in a lathe and 
checking with a run out gauge would tell you. You would have to mount the 
hub in a lathe to turn it down anyway if you find rock on the face. Just 
reverse it in the lathe and check it. A machine shop can check all of them 
for you. I would think it would not be all that expensive to check them.

Alex Manzo
59 TR3A (w/trued hubs)
72 TR6 (w/trued hubs)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cosmo Kramer" <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2011 10:01 PM
Subject: [TR] Wheel wobble/ Bearing race Cups?


Hi List!

OK, now that I started this thread & have replied to 99.9% of them. Here is 
what I have:
9 wheels in total (5 with tyres & 4 just rims). I've gone to a club member's 
house & we checked out all of them. I then found out that 3/32" is within 
the spects of hop (up & down) & wobble (side to side). Wheel hop is more of 
a concern than wheel wobble when worring about the wheel's roundness, to 
effect the ride of the car.

Then I asked about how to check out the front hub's Bearing Race Cups to be 
parallel. Most people replied: to use a dial indicator on a base (magenet or 
clamp) to check the hub's 'roll out'.

BUT I questioned this method because if the hub's Bearing Race Cups are NOT 
mounted into the hub parallel, then I feel that you will be getting a 
reading of wobble; when the hub unit, it self, doesen't have a wobble or 
warpness at all.

I have not done ANYTHING yet, except to check out each rim's bead on the 
left side & right side of each wheel in what I feel was a crude way. BUT! It 
DID give me more input on my problem than what I started with.

So this is a summary & I'm still in a quandary on how, SPECIFACIALY, do I 
know if my hub's race cups are parralel after I use the dial indicator?

Thank You for all the replies, but I'm still needing more help. TIA
-Cosmo Kramer



_______________________________________________



From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jan 19 20:40:30 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 19:40:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wheel wobble/ Bearing race Cups?
In-Reply-To: <35D2131F89E349D9A4E88571AB3F0B21@AlexPC>
References: <885051.45801.qm@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<35D2131F89E349D9A4E88571AB3F0B21@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <01bd01cbb853$c9289ef0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Not sure you have this capability, but mounting the hub in a 
> lathe and 
> checking with a run out gauge would tell you. 

Just curious, Alex, how would you mount the hub in a lathe?  

That was my first thought as well, but I couldn't think of any way of
mounting the hub that wouldn't potentially introduce more error, short of
turning a bearing-shaped mandrel.  Since I already had the bearings and
spindle to fit, that seemed the most accurate method to me.

Cosmo wrote:
> BUT I questioned this method because if the hub's Bearing 
> Race Cups are NOT 
> mounted into the hub parallel, then I feel that you will be getting a 
> reading of wobble; when the hub unit, it self, doesen't have 
> a wobble or 
> warpness at all.

My feeling is that, once you have identified a problem hub, the way to check
for a bearing race installation problem is to remove the races, carefully
check the surfaces, then carefully install either new races or the old
races.  If there was an issue with a burr or piece of dirt holding a race in
the wrong position, you should be able to find and correct it.

Of course you can try just tapping the race deeper into the hub on the
theory that it wasn't installed fully the first time.  But as long as the
hub has been installed and driven, I feel it is very unlikely that having a
race not fully seated is the issue.  The forces applied during cornering are
enough to seat the races against their seats, if they weren't before (which
is the reason it pays to recheck the clearances after driving a few weeks).

-- Randall  


From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed Jan 19 07:55:27 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 09:55:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
In-Reply-To: <4D36CFCB.60003@gmail.com>
References: <4806c.65ba708d.3a673a80@cs.com> <4D36CFCB.60003@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinXDJaF+ATETtGYnaTiSr_spriTeSO4r152P0nM@mail.gmail.com>

I see how I could like both.   Email for questions, consultations, general
information -- and the forums for project progress diaries with pictures --
lots of pictures!!!

Reading the rest of this is purely optional - I let my fingers get away from
me.  Apologies.

Email list -   I use gmail and auto tag all forum email  so it's easy to
separate them and chunk through them at my leisure. I find the threads on an
email list are usually quite short and to the point.

Forums are great to photo document or blog your project progress -- I love
the project posts and seeing photos as projects continue. The richness of
photos, youtube, and other attachments can help move problem resolution more
quickly, and the separate categories keep you more efficient on what you
want to look at.

As noted earlier - I agree that the downside of forum categores is some of
our most knowledgeable folks may not delve in to areas that are not their
current interest and we miss out on their feedback.

Threads on forums can meander on and off topic and  one thread can often
contain 10's of pages of posts.  These are really difficult to extract
information from later.   I have better success searching the email list
archive, but maybe that's because there are relatively fewer posts than some
other forums.....

I'm currently on two other forums -  FornoBravo.com  and GarageJournal.com

some personal experience on other forums:

I've been on FornoBravo almost since it started.   This is an awesome group
- little if any flaming and really supportive. I recently built a wood fired
pizza oven and patio - took a bunch of time off my triumph work.
http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/christos-cucina-1227.html#post6274
I then pretty much took a year off (to focus on Triumphs!) and it was hard
to get caught up when I went back to visit.

I'm new to Garage Journal  http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ - (trying to
convince my better half to build a 24x30 detached garage)  and I'm almost
afraid to post any question as the site is huge and just trying to research
a simple question takes hours.  Flaming is much more prevalent there - but
still lots of helpful folks - and amazing garages and storage solutions.

From lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net  Wed Jan 19 20:50:03 2011
From: lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net (Larry C Griffin)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 22:50:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 7 exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <8CD86284EC83E76-808-1520@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CD86284EC83E76-808-1520@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <FD4E5A2482754B1290D451E737180BF0@HomePC>

James,

Did the inspector do an actual inspection, and then fail you? You can try a 
different inspection station if the failure is not already in the system. 
I've found some shops are stricter than others. Once you are failed in the 
system, a different inspector is very unlikely to risk passing you without 
the correction. Where are you located in NC?

Thanks,
Larry
71 TR6
Raleigh, NC



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jhmdds at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2011 2:43 PM
Subject: [TR] TR 7 exhaust system


>
>
> Last weekend I tried to get my 1980 TR7V8 inspected.  This car has been 
> highly modified.  The exhaust consists of headers on each side of the 
> engine that flow into separate downpipes, mufflers and exhaust pipes that 
> exit in front of the rear tires.  The guy at the inspection station said 
> that if there were no catalytic converters, it would not pass NC 
> inspection.  Well of course there aren't any so now I'm looking for small 
> converters.
>
> I have two questions: Did the 1980 TR7 have a catalytic converter as 
> standard equipment?  and Does anyone have a suggestion about small 
> catalytic converters for a very cramped space?
>
> By the way the V8 is a Pontiac 400cc out of a Formula.
>
> Thanks,
>
> James Maddox
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net
> 


From hupshall at triumphcars.com  Wed Jan 19 22:30:15 2011
From: hupshall at triumphcars.com (Huw Upshall)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 21:30:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
Message-ID: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E3B06@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>

Does anybody have any recommendations / know anybody who refinishes dashboards?  (veneer replacement etc..)?

From mathews at uga.edu  Thu Jan 20 03:38:38 2011
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 05:38:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E3B06@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
References: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E3B06@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
Message-ID: <4D3810AE.3060107@uga.edu>

My ex-wife did mine----20+ years ago, but I don't think references from 
me would help!  :-)

On 1/20/2011 12:30 AM, Huw Upshall wrote:
> Does anybody have any recommendations / know anybody who refinishes dashboards?  (veneer replacement etc..)?

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Thu Jan 20 04:35:49 2011
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 06:35:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wheel wobble/ Bearing race Cups?
In-Reply-To: <01bd01cbb853$c9289ef0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <885051.45801.qm@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com><35D2131F89E349D9A4E88571AB3F0B21@AlexPC>
	<01bd01cbb853$c9289ef0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <7409DA5FA031491DB561D0FB6591E771@AlexPC>

Hi Randall,

When I had my shop in PA, we mounted the hub(s) in our lathe by utilizing 
the 3 jaw self-centering chuck. This chuck was integrated into an 18" facing 
or backing plate. There is (was) enough meat on the edge of the hub to grab 
it and lock it down. The 18" or 20" (can't remember) plate appears large to 
most, but we needed it to open bore holes in saw plate that went up to 16" 
in diameter. We held the saw plate the same way as the hub to cut the bore 
holes larger.

Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2011 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel wobble/ Bearing race Cups?


>> Not sure you have this capability, but mounting the hub in a
>> lathe and
>> checking with a run out gauge would tell you.
>
> Just curious, Alex, how would you mount the hub in a lathe?
>
> That was my first thought as well, but I couldn't think of any way of
> mounting the hub that wouldn't potentially introduce more error, short of
> turning a bearing-shaped mandrel.  Since I already had the bearings and
> spindle to fit, that seemed the most accurate method to me.
>
> Cosmo wrote:
>> BUT I questioned this method because if the hub's Bearing
>> Race Cups are NOT
>> mounted into the hub parallel, then I feel that you will be getting a
>> reading of wobble; when the hub unit, it self, doesen't have
>> a wobble or
>> warpness at all.
>
> My feeling is that, once you have identified a problem hub, the way to 
> check
> for a bearing race installation problem is to remove the races, carefully
> check the surfaces, then carefully install either new races or the old
> races.  If there was an issue with a burr or piece of dirt holding a race 
> in
> the wrong position, you should be able to find and correct it.
>
> Of course you can try just tapping the race deeper into the hub on the
> theory that it wasn't installed fully the first time.  But as long as the
> hub has been installed and driven, I feel it is very unlikely that having 
> a
> race not fully seated is the issue.  The forces applied during cornering 
> are
> enough to seat the races against their seats, if they weren't before 
> (which
> is the reason it pays to recheck the clearances after driving a few 
> weeks).
>
> -- Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ambritts at bellsouth.net
>
> 



From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jan 20 06:59:13 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 05:59:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wheel wobble/ Bearing race Cups?
In-Reply-To: <7409DA5FA031491DB561D0FB6591E771@AlexPC>
References: <885051.45801.qm@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com><35D2131F89E349D9A4E88571AB3F0B21@AlexPC>
	<01bd01cbb853$c9289ef0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<7409DA5FA031491DB561D0FB6591E771@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <022501cbb8aa$387f9eb0$0301a8c0@randall>

> There is (was) enough meat on the edge of 
> the hub to grab 
> it and lock it down.

But then that tells you absolutely nothing about whether the face of the hub
is perpendicular to the bearing races/bores.

And the machined edge of my hubs is less than 1/8" wide, which doesn't seem
like nearly "enough" to me, especially since part of it needs to hang out if
you are going to face the hub without also facing the chuck jaws.

> We held the saw plate the same way as the hub to 
> cut the bore 
> holes larger.

That surprises me too.  A 3-jaw chuck isn't the most accurate thing,
generally it's "center" varies with jaw opening especially if there is any
wear at all in the scrolls.  So this would only make sense to me if you
mounted the chuck and a saw plate, then indicated the assembly for true from
the center hole of the saw plate.  Then you could swap in other plates with
reasonable repeatability.

Or if it didn't matter if the center hole was off by a few thousandths.

-- Randall  


From rjones at wfeca.net  Thu Jan 20 07:17:17 2011
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 09:17:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <4D3810AE.3060107@uga.edu>
References: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E3B06@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
	<4D3810AE.3060107@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <5AF1C54D-D7DE-4FBC-8AE6-5B134E5D3A83@wfeca.net>

The original veneer is pretty thin.  If there are any wood defects at all, I wouldn't bother with refinishing it.  I have had two dash's made by Prestige Autowood and recommend them highly.

Bob
On Jan 20, 2011, at 5:38 AM, Doug Mathews wrote:

> My ex-wife did mine----20+ years ago, but I don't think references from me would help!  :-)
> 
> On 1/20/2011 12:30 AM, Huw Upshall wrote:
>> Does anybody have any recommendations / know anybody who refinishes dashboards?  (veneer replacement etc..)?
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net
> 


From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Jan 20 07:26:14 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 09:26:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wheel wobble/ Bearing race Cups?
In-Reply-To: <022501cbb8aa$387f9eb0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <885051.45801.qm@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<35D2131F89E349D9A4E88571AB3F0B21@AlexPC>
	<01bd01cbb853$c9289ef0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<7409DA5FA031491DB561D0FB6591E771@AlexPC>
	<022501cbb8aa$387f9eb0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikrFh_CBTeOW1audvhLJKFEg2qOVkQ_8fR8NGoP@mail.gmail.com>

Excuse me if this was mentioned before.

To elimiate any freeplay in the bearing -  I usually pull the cotterpin and
tighten the spindle nut until I get firm resistance (pretty much tighen the
spindle nut hand tight and take it one more flat with the wrench) The hub
should turn with only minor resistance by hand and then make my
measurements.   Make sure you reset the bearing and reinstall the cotter pin
when done.

 I totally agree if the cups are not seated properly it is an issue.  Before
you take your hubs apart - The dial indicator will tell you if its an issue
with the hub (and possibly the seats) or not.

From allegrorover at mac.com  Thu Jan 20 07:57:26 2011
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 09:57:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E3B06@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
References: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E3B06@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
Message-ID: <915B49C8-4482-4358-8877-EFC30DF40CB7@mac.com>

TRF does dashboards. They have a very nice wood shop in the back of their shop.



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489



From thenicholls at verizon.net  Thu Jan 20 08:15:31 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 09:15:31 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
Message-ID: <2134545788.170712.1295536531953.JavaMail.root@vznit170076>

If you want to drop some dollars, Prestige Autotrim builds the most beautiful and labor intensive dashboards on the planet.  I had to wait a year, but it was worth it.
 
http://www.prestigeautowood.com/triumph_gallery.htm
 
Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6


Jan 20, 2011 10:01:08 AM, allegrorover at mac.com wrote:

TRF does dashboards. They have a very nice wood shop in the back of their shop.



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net


From dkspence at telus.net  Thu Jan 20 12:02:02 2011
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 12:02:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR 7 exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6553.1295495400.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6553.1295495400.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7F13CE73-392A-43B4-8157-35B2812386C4@telus.net>


Since the engine is a Pontiac product I would look at the stock  
Pontiac exhaust system to find a Cat that matches the output. It was  
engineered to meet legislation.  A TR7 cat would be a different beast.



From keithstewart at execulink.com  Thu Jan 20 16:39:48 2011
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 18:39:48 -0500
Subject: [TR]  Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1295550002.21792.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1295550002.21792.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6B1E4596-DE19-435D-8C8C-419399543355@execulink.com>

... and those are some beautiful dashboards but one of the other features of the TRF dashboards is that they are "book-matched" just like the originals - such that the wood grain on the left and right sides are mirror images. Shown here:
http://www.zeni.net/trf/webcatalog/specials6.29/4.php?s_wt=1920&s_ht=1200


Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com




On 2011-01-20, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> 
> If you want to drop some dollars, Prestige Autotrim builds the most beautiful and labor intensive dashboards on the planet.  I had to wait a year, but it was worth it.
> 
> http://www.prestigeautowood.com/triumph_gallery.htm
> 
> Craig 
> 1972 Triumph TR6


From bill_beecher at flash.net  Thu Jan 20 17:07:00 2011
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 17:07:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] FREE TR3 seat pan
Message-ID: <9D3286ABCCF44EFF867F3E2545483873@bboffice>

Cleaning out and I have found a TR3 passenger side seat pan.  It is just the
bottom part and one of the back attachment studs is broken but it is not bad
rusted or bent up.  Easily cleaned up and very useable.
 
Free to you for the cost of shipping, probably about $15 to anywhere in the
US.
 
All the best,
Bill

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Thu Jan 20 17:09:38 2011
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 17:09:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Any Listers in the Abilene, Texas area?
Message-ID: <A83BCDBFE1AA4F90826B3B85C3BC816F@bboffice>


We are considering a move to Abilene, TX and I was just wondering if I would
be the only TR3 in town.  I know the Red River guys are strong in the DFW
area but this is about 150 miles to the west.

TIA,

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



From thenicholls at verizon.net  Thu Jan 20 18:54:02 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 19:54:02 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
Message-ID: <1868157328.211335.1295574842946.JavaMail.root@vznit170080>

Trust me, I buy all of my parts from TRF and purchased a dashboard and had it shipped to my house.  I also paid to ship it back because I was not happy with the way it compared to what I had.  I will say this was before they started having Woodchuck building the dashes.  I have not seen one for several years.

Never noticed the blurb about the "book-matching", that is very interesting to me.  Wonder if that costs me points at the shows?  :)

Take care.

Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6


Jan 20, 2011 06:46:34 PM, keithstewart at execulink.com wrote:

... and those are some beautiful dashboards but one of the other features of the TRF dashboards is that they are "book-matched" just like the originals - such that the wood grain on the left and right sides are mirror images. Shown here:
http://www.zeni.net/trf/webcatalog/specials6.29/4.php?s_wt=1920&s_ht=1200


Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com




On 2011-01-20, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> 
> If you want to drop some dollars, Prestige Autotrim builds the most beautiful and labor intensive dashboards on the planet. I had to wait a year, but it was worth it.
> 
> http://www.prestigeautowood.com/triumph_gallery.htm
> 
> Craig 
> 1972 Triumph TR6

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net


From Bob at texmog.com  Thu Jan 20 20:00:18 2011
From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 21:00:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Any Listers in the Abilene, Texas area?
In-Reply-To: <A83BCDBFE1AA4F90826B3B85C3BC816F@bboffice>
Message-ID: <AC0AFB9665E24D8FB158E7455712481D@CARROOM>

Bill, you will soon find out that '150 miles' is 'just down the road apiece'
here in Texas

Bob  

> -----Original Message-----
> From: british-cars-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:british-cars-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> bill_beecher at flash.net
> Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2011 6:10 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net
> Subject: [British-cars] Any Listers in the Abilene, Texas area?
> 
> 
> We are considering a move to Abilene, TX and I was just 
> wondering if I would be the only TR3 in town.  I know the Red 
> River guys are strong in the DFW area but this is about 150 
> miles to the west.
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Bill
> 
> Bill Beecher


From keithstewart at execulink.com  Thu Jan 20 20:11:05 2011
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 22:11:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <1868157328.211335.1295574842946.JavaMail.root@vznit170080>
References: <1868157328.211335.1295574842946.JavaMail.root@vznit170080>
Message-ID: <573B27C5-DB55-42B8-B4FF-80D15AC0D87C@execulink.com>

Why would it? Isn't that the way the dashes were originally made? I think that is the reason TRF had them made this more costly way.

Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com




On 2011-01-20, at 8:54 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:

> Trust me, I buy all of my parts from TRF and purchased a dashboard and had it shipped to my house.  I also paid to ship it back because I was not happy with the way it compared to what I had.  I will say this was before they started having Woodchuck building the dashes.  I have not seen one for several years.
> 
> Never noticed the blurb about the "book-matching", that is very interesting to me.  Wonder if that costs me points at the shows?  :)
> 
> Take care.
> 
> Craig 
> 1972 Triumph TR6


From bill_beecher at flash.net  Thu Jan 20 22:59:51 2011
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 22:59:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Any Listers in the Abilene, Texas area?
In-Reply-To: <AC0AFB9665E24D8FB158E7455712481D@CARROOM>
References: <A83BCDBFE1AA4F90826B3B85C3BC816F@bboffice>
	<AC0AFB9665E24D8FB158E7455712481D@CARROOM>
Message-ID: <513220E23FF146C5B7831C8D2D82AE38@bboffice>

Oh, I know, I lived in Ft. Worth for 30 years. 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Nogueira [mailto:Bob at texmog.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2011 8:00 PM
To: bill_beecher at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net;
british-cars at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [British-cars] Any Listers in the Abilene, Texas area?

Bill, you will soon find out that '150 miles' is 'just down the road apiece'
here in Texas

Bob  

> -----Original Message-----
> From: british-cars-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:british-cars-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> bill_beecher at flash.net
> Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2011 6:10 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net
> Subject: [British-cars] Any Listers in the Abilene, Texas area?
> 
> 
> We are considering a move to Abilene, TX and I was just wondering if I 
> would be the only TR3 in town.  I know the Red River guys are strong 
> in the DFW area but this is about 150 miles to the west.
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Bill
> 
> Bill Beecher


From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Jan 21 09:38:30 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 11:38:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] commision plate
In-Reply-To: <573B27C5-DB55-42B8-B4FF-80D15AC0D87C@execulink.com>
References: <1868157328.211335.1295574842946.JavaMail.root@vznit170080>
	<573B27C5-DB55-42B8-B4FF-80D15AC0D87C@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <37B8FB62E397460DAC8F6962B005B899@DCH6RFC1>

Hi, list:

The commission plate on TR250 CD8433L was pretty bad and so I bought a new
one from Moss.  Does anyone have the tooling to stamp it for me?

Andrew Uprichard



From dlylis at gmail.com  Fri Jan 21 09:41:55 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 16:41:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
Message-ID: <1124669140-1295628118-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1105738891-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I don't believe bookmatch was originally used. At least the dashes I have seen, including mine, that I interpret as original, are not. 
------Original Message------
From: Keith Stewart
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: thenicholls at verizon.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
Sent: Jan 20, 2011 10:11 PM

Why would it? Isn't that the way the dashes were originally made? I think that is the reason TRF had them made this more costly way.

Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com




On 2011-01-20, at 8:54 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:

> Trust me, I buy all of my parts from TRF and purchased a dashboard and had it shipped to my house.  I also paid to ship it back because I was not happy with the way it compared to what I had.  I will say this was before they started having Woodchuck building the dashes.  I have not seen one for several years.
> 
> Never noticed the blurb about the "book-matching", that is very interesting to me.  Wonder if that costs me points at the shows?  :)
> 
> Take care.
> 
> Craig 
> 1972 Triumph TR6

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From albertrunyan at gmail.com  Fri Jan 21 10:06:43 2011
From: albertrunyan at gmail.com (albert runyan)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 12:06:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <1124669140-1295628118-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1105738891-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1124669140-1295628118-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1105738891-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikGg7oiPDYAn-O4gtzwstdNy62t-6LSX5CwxREs@mail.gmail.com>

Just to clarify, the book matching we advertise refers to the dashes we do
for TR4 and TR4A.
Also, our dashes our finished to look as they would have when the car is
new.  We don't pre-fade them with an orange finish.
Cheers,
Albert Runyan
TRF

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Jan 21 10:07:01 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 10:07:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] commision plate
In-Reply-To: <37B8FB62E397460DAC8F6962B005B899@DCH6RFC1>
References: <1868157328.211335.1295574842946.JavaMail.root@vznit170080><573B27C5-DB55-42B8-B4FF-80D15AC0D87C@execulink.com>
	<37B8FB62E397460DAC8F6962B005B899@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <290BF06C7DE84FBEB249A208A955312A@bboffice>

Andrew,
I'll jump in and forward a link provided by Geo Hahn last year.  He used a
set from Harbor Freight and made a simple spacing gauge to align the
numbers.
Bill


I, too, used the stamps available from Harbor Freight. Made a guide from a
2x4 that allowed spacing to match original and kept the punch vertical.
Practiced on a Coke can:
http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/commission-stamp.JPG

Font was close except for the '3' as there are 2 ways to print a 3 and TR
used the other one.
Geo 


-----Original Message-----

The commission plate on TR250 CD8433L was pretty bad and so I bought a new
one from Moss.  Does anyone have the tooling to stamp it for me?

Andrew Uprichard


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jan 21 10:21:14 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 10:21:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <1124669140-1295628118-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1105738891-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1124669140-1295628118-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1105738891-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik5Hu+sg6S3DT-oLXJtBLP3=3HSFALxa4hq-1q2@mail.gmail.com>

On 1/21/11, dlylis at gmail.com <dlylis at gmail.com> wrote:
> I don't believe bookmatch was originally used...

My 64 appears to have been.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR4%20Wood%20Dash

Geo

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jan 21 10:44:53 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 12:44:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Cleveland OH Area Engine Shop
In-Reply-To: <13e0f.c9d4249.3a6afa0a@aol.com>
References: <13e0f.c9d4249.3a6afa0a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU156-w10D3E1E4662A2AD285034ABAF80@phx.gbl>





Any of you in the Northern OH area you ever heard of a shop called West-side Machine in Cleveland? Ran by somebody named Eric Horbol and supposedly has a lot of background working on British engines. He was recommended to me but I cannot find any info on the shop. Know anything about him? Good, bad, indifferent? It looks like I have some block work comming up on the Spity.

Take care,
Marty
 		 	   		  

From dkspence at telus.net  Fri Jan 21 10:46:02 2011
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 10:46:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6848.1295630490.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6848.1295630490.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C39ED06F-CD1C-4EF8-A7B3-58F8271198CB@telus.net>

The three original TR4A dashes I have are all "book matched"


On 21-Jan-11, at 10:21 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
> From: dlylis at gmail.com
> Date: January 21, 2011 9:41:55 AM MST (CA)
> To: "Keith Stewart" <keithstewart at execulink.com>, triumphs- 
> bounces at autox.team.net, thenicholls at verizon.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
> Reply-To: dlylis at gmail.com
>
>
> I don't believe bookmatch was originally used. At least the dashes  
> I have seen, including mine, that I interpret as original, are not.


From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Fri Jan 21 10:53:54 2011
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 09:53:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik5Hu+sg6S3DT-oLXJtBLP3=3HSFALxa4hq-1q2@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1124669140-1295628118-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1105738891-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<AANLkTik5Hu+sg6S3DT-oLXJtBLP3=3HSFALxa4hq-1q2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikS-i+uV4fYBkN+DtRZT9w8_0rmWYvqw35UXEfL@mail.gmail.com>

Both of my TR4's have/had bookmatched veneer. The split is in the center,
bisecting the ashtray (token holder).  Not so fine on the Stag, and I don't
remember how the grain ran on the TR6.
John
On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 9:21 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> On 1/21/11, dlylis at gmail.com <dlylis at gmail.com> wrote:
> > I don't believe bookmatch was originally used...
>
> My 64 appears to have been.
>
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR4%20Wood%20Dash<http://members.cybertrails.com/%7Eahwahnee/TR4%20Wood%20Dash>
>
> Geo
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com
>
>

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Jan 21 10:58:42 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 17:58:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Cleveland OH Area Engine Shop
In-Reply-To: <BLU156-w10D3E1E4662A2AD285034ABAF80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1917822175.1629884.1295632722001.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

There's a Spridget shop there called The Winners Circle.  They would know, I suppose.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 11:44:53 AM
> Subject: [TR] Cleveland OH Area Engine Shop
> 
> Any of you in the Northern OH area you ever heard of a shop called
> West-side Machine in Cleveland? Ran by somebody named Eric Horbol and
> supposedly has a lot of background working on British engines. He was
> recommended to me but I cannot find any info on the shop. Know
> anything about him? Good, bad, indifferent? It looks like I have some
> block work comming up on the Spity.

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Jan 21 11:00:25 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 12:00:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Dashboard_Refinishing?=
Message-ID: <20110121175959.BF425187676@autox.team.net>

Just to clarify, the dashes I referred to were the tr6 dashes.
My friend has a late tr4 with the orange dash...keeps you alert while driving!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "albert runyan" <albertrunyan at gmail.com>
Date: Fri, Jan 21, 2011 11:06
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
To: <dlylis at gmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>


Just to clarify, the book matching we advertise refers to the dashes we do
for TR4 and TR4A.
Also, our dashes our finished to look as they would have when the car is
new.  We don't pre-fade them with an orange finish.
Cheers,
Albert Runyan
TRF
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net


From mrm at clking.com  Fri Jan 21 11:09:22 2011
From: mrm at clking.com (Mitch R. Meisler)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 13:09:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikGg7oiPDYAn-O4gtzwstdNy62t-6LSX5CwxREs@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1124669140-1295628118-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1105738891-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<AANLkTikGg7oiPDYAn-O4gtzwstdNy62t-6LSX5CwxREs@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2B424E25DFFFC6489929D364DFBAE09902D6CC4054@clking01exc02>

The burled walnut dash that Woodchuck at TRF made for my tr4a gets positive comments at nearly every event I attend.  I believe it was the first burled walnut dash that he produced (at my request), about five years ago I think.  And it's matched.  Can't recommend it enough (NFI).  

Mitch Meisler
Managing Director, Institutional Sales
CL King & Associates
Nine Elk Street
Albany, New York, 12207
518-431-3512-work
518-528-2263-cell
AOL IM = MEISLERCLKA
E-MAIL = mrm at clking.com
 
The views and recommendations in this communication are views of the CL King & Associates Institutional Sales Desk. Unless otherwise indicated, this communication has not been produced by CL King's Research Department and does not constitute research.  This material is provided to you for information purposes only.  CL King is not offering to buy or sell or solicit offers to buy or sell any financial instrument. CL King has no obligation to update its opinions or the information in this material.  CL King and its affiliates and their respective officers, directors, partners and employees, including persons involved in the preparation or issuance of this communication, may from time to time act as manager, co-manager or underwriter of a public offering or otherwise, in the capacity of principal or agent, deal in, hold or act as market-makers or advisors, brokers or commercial and/or investment bankers in relation to the securities or related derivatives which are subject to this material. Neither CL King, nor any affiliate, nor any of their respective officers, directors, partners, or employees accepts any liability whatsoever for any direct or consequential loss arising from the use of this material or its content.  The securities discussed in this material may not be suitable for all investors. CL King recommends that investors independently evaluate each issuer, security or instrument discussed in this material, and consult any independent advisors they believe necessary. The value of and income from any investment may fluctuate from day to day as a result of changes in relevant economic markets (including changes in market liquidity). The information in this material is not intended to predict actual results, which may differ substantially from those reflected. CL King is a member of FINRA and SIPC.  WBE certified.  For more information about CL King & Associates go to: www.clking.com.  If you are not an intended recipient of this e-mail, do not duplicate or redistribute it by any means. Please delete it and any attachments and notify the sender that you have received it in error.  

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of albert runyan
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 12:07 PM
To: dlylis at gmail.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing

Just to clarify, the book matching we advertise refers to the dashes we do
for TR4 and TR4A.
Also, our dashes our finished to look as they would have when the car is
new.  We don't pre-fade them with an orange finish.
Cheers,
Albert Runyan
TRF
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mrm at clking.com


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From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Fri Jan 21 12:57:58 2011
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 19:57:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] OT Fiat parts
Message-ID: <2099528070-1295640072-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-354703481-@bda006.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Despite my better judgement a buddy of mine is looking at an X19 and is wondering if there is the fiat equivalent of moss motors or roadster factory out there so he can price the inevitable parts ahead of time. 

Thanks in advance
Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Fri Jan 21 13:14:06 2011
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 14:14:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] OT Fiat parts
In-Reply-To: <2099528070-1295640072-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-354703481-@bda006.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <2099528070-1295640072-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-354703481-@bda006.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikiH5kqpqzBPn5AqD3JF3cvmVTKc8BowoPgrse8@mail.gmail.com>

I had a buddy in High School who owned one of these.  Fun little car.
Body work was a pain but the car handled like a dream, much better
then the lighter, quicker Fiero.  We got a lot of parts from Bayless (
http://www.midwest-bayless.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxeSFshop.aspx?sid=1&sfid=208227&c=192454
).  There were at that time a lot of parts also available the local
auto parts stores.  A lot of suspension bits from the X19 were also
used on Yugo. I would guess that by now the Fiat parts are easier to
get thant the Yugo ones.


On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 1:57 PM,  <amcewen2 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> Despite my better judgement a buddy of mine is looking at an X19 and is wondering if there is the fiat equivalent of moss motors or roadster factory out there so he can price the inevitable parts ahead of time.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation ?$11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>



-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you?? =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown? =
=================================

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Jan 21 13:21:10 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 20:21:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] OT Fiat parts
In-Reply-To: <1865381778.1638590.1295640890666.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1297431444.1638950.1295641270831.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca
> Despite my better judgement a buddy of mine is looking at an X19 

Yeah, we have some newbie autocrossers here in Minnesota just did the same thing.

> is wondering if there is the fiat equivalent of moss motors or
> roadster factory 

ALFA Romeo and FIAT parts can be had at:
International Auto Parts
http://www.international-auto.com

Bought some Weber stuff from them for a Lotus Europa years ago (heck, they didn't know I wasn't buying them for an Italian car).

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Jan 21 13:33:05 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 15:33:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <1124669140-1295628118-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1105738891-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1124669140-1295628118-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1105738891-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <8CD87C189CA6B43-1B4-3A09@webmail-m026.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: dlylis <dlylis at gmail.com>

I don't believe bookmatch was originally used. At least the dashes I 
have seen,
including mine, that I interpret as original, are not.

==AM==
Most all Herald dashes I've seen were originally book-matched as well!

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Jan 21 13:48:03 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 20:48:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Anybody near Kennewick, Washington?
In-Reply-To: <1040361209.1640137.1295642671875.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <697128614.1640327.1295642883200.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I have a special car I'd like you to look at in Kennewick, WA.

Send me private mail, please, and I'll tell you more.

If you don't know where Kennewick is, you might not want to drive that far...


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Jan 21 14:31:07 2011
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 16:31:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1940 Ford, no TR
Message-ID: <4D39B4CB.23785.137CEA4A@localhost>

A friend whose husband passed away this summer is looking to unload 
"stuff".  One of his stuff that she would like to sell is a 1940 
Ford.  I do not know any model info but can find out.  I remember I 
saw it once but that was a decade or two ago.  He used it as a daily 
driver sometimes.  He was also a stickler for authenticity and once 
even dug up a NOS rear windshield wpier for it, apparently a rare 
item.

I have NFI.  If this car intrigues any of you, drop me a line.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com


From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Jan 21 14:37:00 2011
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 16:37:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] OT Fiat parts
In-Reply-To: <2099528070-1295640072-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-354703481-@bda006.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <4D39B62C.30062.13824C77@localhost>

On 21 Jan 2011 at 19:57, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote:

> Despite my better judgement a buddy of mine is looking at an X19

Perhaps the problem isn't your better judgment but his.

I owned a X-1/9 for a year.  Bought it new in 1974.  Sold it when I 
got accepted in grad school and figued it would be beat to pieces 
when I moved to Massachusetts.  It was a nice piece, handled like a 
dream.  The engine was a bit anemic but the handling made up for it.  
Its biggest problem was that the lean carb settings required for that 
time period combined with the tight engine compartment meant it could 
develop vapor lock easily in the summer, and also become hard to 
start on a rainy day if the last tune-up was more than 3000 miles 
ago.  Still, it was a neat car.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com


From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Fri Jan 21 15:46:38 2011
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 17:46:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 25
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6554.1295495400.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6554.1295495400.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4D3A0CCE.40003@gmail.com>

Guy,

There should be a spring, a steel diaphragm with a vertical pin and a 
rubber diaphragm inside the unit.  Modern PCV valves control flow to the 
intake manifold to some optimum amount.  Usually there's a spring/valve 
that only opens when there's pressure difference to pull it open and 
then if flow gets too high there's the other side of the valve closes 
when forced up all the way against the spring.  I'm not sure the TR4A 
has the flow limiting feature as if you use the vented cap so much air 
will flow through the PCV valve that you'll have trouble keeping idle low.

AFAIK the internal parts are available from the major vendors.

Ben.....


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300


On 1/19/2011 10:50 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 16:40:46 -0600
> From: "G.D. Huggins"<guy at genfiniti.com>
> Subject: [TR] TR4A - PCV Question
> To:redRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com,triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID:<5B28DE52-FDA7-415F-9DAE-A9A74C7FF7EC at genfiniti.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> All,
>
> I've got a quick question regarding the PCV unit on the TR4A.
> Inside it has a diaphragm sitting atop a spring.
> It seems like something should be between these two parts.  Is that so?
>
> Also, how does this thing work?
> I know its purpose is to pull excess air from the crankcase and recycle it into the intake manifold.
> Is that flow supposed to create some sort of vacuum, actuating the spring, moving the diaphragm?
> Any explanation would help.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>    

From dlylis at gmail.com  Fri Jan 21 16:56:11 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 23:56:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
Message-ID: <1044576257-1295654173-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-882541132-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I was on the wrong page. I have a TR6 (69)
------Original Message------
From: Don Spence
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
Sent: Jan 21, 2011 12:46 PM

The three original TR4A dashes I have are all "book matched"


On 21-Jan-11, at 10:21 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
> From: dlylis at gmail.com
> Date: January 21, 2011 9:41:55 AM MST (CA)
> To: "Keith Stewart" <keithstewart at execulink.com>, triumphs- 
> bounces at autox.team.net, thenicholls at verizon.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
> Reply-To: dlylis at gmail.com
>
>
> I don't believe bookmatch was originally used. At least the dashes  
> I have seen, including mine, that I interpret as original, are not.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jan 21 17:04:42 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 17:04:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] OT Fiat parts
In-Reply-To: <2099528070-1295640072-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-354703481-@bda006.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <2099528070-1295640072-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-354703481-@bda006.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=hYiPi3ftnUzMJfhzzcy8SKJ5-ATYeRFg0g_vs@mail.gmail.com>

In my Fiat days (30 years) I did a lot of business with both Bayless
and International.

You might point him here for an eye-talian version of 'the list':

http://www.mirafiori.com/

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Fri Jan 21 17:32:40 2011
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 19:32:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] CPI Index
Message-ID: <ECE5A51F24C240D880A4FAF19A994DAB@DaveLaptop>

List,
Ever wonder what that first car would cost in todays dollars?

http://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/cpicalc.pl

This is a  eye opener..

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Jan 21 17:59:19 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 19:59:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
References: <mailman.6848.1295630490.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<C39ED06F-CD1C-4EF8-A7B3-58F8271198CB@telus.net>
Message-ID: <5AD1AE26C4E84E488F4D5DD1EC978B5B@userb38463fba5>

This is interesting because my original 1966 TR4A dash is not bookmatched.
JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Spence" <dkspence at telus.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 12:46 PM
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing


> The three original TR4A dashes I have are all "book matched"
> 
> 
> On 21-Jan-11, at 10:21 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
>>
>> From: dlylis at gmail.com
>> Date: January 21, 2011 9:41:55 AM MST (CA)
>> To: "Keith Stewart" <keithstewart at execulink.com>, triumphs- 
>> bounces at autox.team.net, thenicholls at verizon.net
>> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
>> Reply-To: dlylis at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> I don't believe bookmatch was originally used. At least the dashes  
>> I have seen, including mine, that I interpret as original, are not.


From goh62agan at verizon.net  Fri Jan 21 21:08:31 2011
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 23:08:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dashboard Refinishing
In-Reply-To: <4D3810AE.3060107@uga.edu>
References: <59CA8A6A53882E499A178494C190E2EE137E3B06@VA3DIAXVS491.RED001.local>
	<4D3810AE.3060107@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <CF7C3285-CEF8-4ED5-86E6-5439AEBDC92F@verizon.net>

I ended up doing mine myself. And pretty much everything I do on my car is "never done this before"
Looks like it is a "bookend type".  Not sure if its original to the car.
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab269/goh62agan/dashbord/IMG_2154.jpg
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab269/goh62agan/dashbord/1024-8302028644911.jpgOn Jan 20, 2011, at 

Gary O

5:38 AM, Doug Mathews wrote:

> My ex-wife did mine----20+ years ago, but I don't think references from me would help!  :-)
> 
> On 1/20/2011 12:30 AM, Huw Upshall wrote:
>> Does anybody have any recommendations / know anybody who refinishes dashboards?  (veneer replacement etc..)?
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/goh62agan at verizon.net
> 


From lee at automate-it.com  Fri Jan 21 21:41:26 2011
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 22:41:26 -0600
Subject: [TR] Any Listers in the Abilene, Texas area?
In-Reply-To: <A83BCDBFE1AA4F90826B3B85C3BC816F@bboffice>
References: <A83BCDBFE1AA4F90826B3B85C3BC816F@bboffice>
Message-ID: <c37907aa5dc407a5d399b12eb8995a1a.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

> We are considering a move to Abilene, TX and I was just wondering if I would
> be the only TR3 in town.

Bill, there are a few Triumphs there, and when I lived there (and bought a
couple of GT6's there) 30 years ago there were a few '3s around. On my last
visit a couple of years ago I spotted tr6's and spitfires around town, haven't
seen the 3's as much. At one time there was a group of brit-car fans near
Dyess AFB.

Lee


From staffel at comcast.net  Fri Jan 21 22:32:05 2011
From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 05:32:05 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 dash
Message-ID: <601329469-1295674322-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-855587270-@bda801.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Good to see many of you still @!!!!

My TR4 (last US existing prod # per VTR) did NOT have a bookpage dash (have 1969 picture to prove what was orig)! So replaced with same; however  all of my 3 Jensen GT's do have. 
Didn't realize TR4A had bookpage dash-never seen one, and I would know immediately.
TR4 flawless last season!
BR:
Sherman D Taffel
Columbia MD/Goldvein VA
TR4
4 Jags (3 V-12's, XJR6)
5 Jensens
7 50/60's MOPARS
 62 alum v-8 buick skylark
63 Buick Riviera
2 Fieros (much better than X1/9)
2007 Solstice 2.4 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Fri Jan 21 22:32:24 2011
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC)
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 23:32:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] neat link
Message-ID: <DF24BE7ABA784A5EA364AB1A15674903@0817C93C637E473>

A magazine review for "in period."

http://blog.modernmechanix.com/2009/04/30/mi-tests-the-triumph-tr-2/#more-7712

kg

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Fri Jan 21 22:42:07 2011
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 00:42:07 EST
Subject: [TR] OT Fiat parts
Message-ID: <56cbe.5f9aa744.3a6bc82f@aol.com>


You can try Fiat-Lancia Unlimited.
_http://www.flu.org/_ (http://www.flu.org/) 
 
I good source for Fiat info.
 
 
Rodney Ford,  President
Positive Earth Drivers Club
TR4A IRS
TR7  Spider

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jan 22 08:47:28 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 08:47:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] neat link
In-Reply-To: <DF24BE7ABA784A5EA364AB1A15674903@0817C93C637E473>
References: <DF24BE7ABA784A5EA364AB1A15674903@0817C93C637E473>
Message-ID: <7E9434EFDE754C018F5CC0EBDA0BC986@bboffice>

Wow, I didn't realize it this was such a wild car, "A hairy-chested,
flame-spiffing wildcat".

A real fun article to lift the spirits of every TR2-3 owner.

Thanks for sharing,
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ken Gano, home PC
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 10:32 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] neat link

A magazine review for "in period."

http://blog.modernmechanix.com/2009/04/30/mi-tests-the-triumph-tr-2/#more-77
12

kg
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From goh62agan at verizon.net  Sat Jan 22 10:02:18 2011
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 12:02:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 interior and seat belts
Message-ID: <F99AA8F2-B215-4E35-B8BA-2060BD801B8A@verizon.net>

List,
I'm working on my interior (in a very cold garage) and I have some questions.  The interior is getting lined with sound deadening and one wheel arch is covered with neoprene.  I was hoping it would warm up before gluing the vinyl in.  The interior panel kit from MOSS was purchased several years. One panel covers the area over the wheel arch and the door post.
What covers the remaining door post and the "triangle area" near the base of the door post.
My car is a '62 TR4 (? before seat belts were standard issue).  The seat belts were not attached when I got the car.  I don't know how the seat belts attach to the body.  There are bolts on the door post and drive train tunnel.  Do I assume the belts attach to these in some manner?
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab269/goh62agan/TR4%20after/IMG_2165.jpg
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab269/goh62agan/TR4%20after/IMG_1762.jpg
Thanks,
Gary O

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Sat Jan 22 10:24:47 2011
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 10:24:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lucas Starter Squeal
Message-ID: <77F32FB47CD041639ADFD8C0B2A25F0F@bboffice>

Just tried to fire up the TR yesterday after installing my new head studs.
The stock Lucas starter on my TR3 started acting real weak at the end of
last season but did get me going.  While in the shop, a reputable Brit car
guy, for other things I asked the mechanic about it and he said it needed to
be re-built.  The problem is that is will try to turn the motor and act as
if the battery is very low, if it cannot turn the motor it will start to
emit a squeal that sounds almost like a fan belt slipping.
 
Cables are new from the new battery to the solenoid to the starter and all
the connections are tight and clean.  Is it possible that the solenoid is
sucking the power along the way?  The fully charged battery will spin the
motor for a few seconds then die to the squeal then nothing, even with a 50a
booster attached.
 
Any suggestions would be appreciated, TIA.
 
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jan 22 10:58:07 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 09:58:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal
In-Reply-To: <77F32FB47CD041639ADFD8C0B2A25F0F@bboffice>
References: <77F32FB47CD041639ADFD8C0B2A25F0F@bboffice>
Message-ID: <020f01cbba5d$ecf3b2f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Is it possible that the 
> solenoid is
> sucking the power along the way?

"In an infinite universe, all things are possible."

However, I think it much more likely that your mechanic is right and the
starter needs service.  There are several faults which can cause the
symptoms you describe, including a worn-out brush or a worn-out bushing.
Generally such things are obvious once the starter is disassembled, so that
would be my next step.

If the solenoid is the problem, it is going to be hot as blazes within a few
seconds of cranking the engine until it won't turn any more.  But it will be
hot even if the starter is to blame, so that is not a reliable test.  When
my early TR3A starter failed with similar symptoms, the solenoid was
literally smoking, but continued to work after the starter was repaired.

If you don't care to disassemble or service the starter yourself, any "auto
electric" shop should be able to handle it.  There is nothing particularly
"British" about it (except the fasteners).  And in general they are quite a
bit cheaper than buying a rebuilt unit from one of the usual LBC suppliers
(depending somewhat of course on what is wrong with your unit).

-- Randall  


From dlylis at gmail.com  Sat Jan 22 11:13:50 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 18:13:50 +0000
Subject: [TR] Lucas Starter Squeal
In-Reply-To: <77F32FB47CD041639ADFD8C0B2A25F0F@bboffice>
References: <77F32FB47CD041639ADFD8C0B2A25F0F@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1329080249-1295720029-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1370040250-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I had a similar problem with my TR3a. (sans squeal). What it turned out to be was that one of the springs that holds the brushes had broken off from the starter end plate and the only thing that was providing contact was gravity, and not doing a great job, I might add. I chased this for months thinking first it was a ground issue, then a poor power supply issue, then solenoid, as you have pointed out. 
My local starter guy provided me with a new end plate and problem solved. 

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: <bill_beecher at flash.net>
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 10:24:47 
To: 'list Triumph'<triumphs at autox.team.net>; <british-cars at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Lucas Starter Squeal

Just tried to fire up the TR yesterday after installing my new head studs.
The stock Lucas starter on my TR3 started acting real weak at the end of
last season but did get me going.  While in the shop, a reputable Brit car
guy, for other things I asked the mechanic about it and he said it needed to
be re-built.  The problem is that is will try to turn the motor and act as
if the battery is very low, if it cannot turn the motor it will start to
emit a squeal that sounds almost like a fan belt slipping.
 
Cables are new from the new battery to the solenoid to the starter and all
the connections are tight and clean.  Is it possible that the solenoid is
sucking the power along the way?  The fully charged battery will spin the
motor for a few seconds then die to the squeal then nothing, even with a 50a
booster attached.
 
Any suggestions would be appreciated, TIA.
 
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


From bill_beecher at flash.net  Sat Jan 22 11:51:56 2011
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 11:51:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal
In-Reply-To: <81be110b-ac21-4d58-a600-a3b5b87a0832@email.android.com>
References: <77F32FB47CD041639ADFD8C0B2A25F0F@bboffice>
	<81be110b-ac21-4d58-a600-a3b5b87a0832@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <1F96E008E6284FE291BC405D6DAEEF22@bboffice>

Sorry, I meant to mention that I did remove the starter and had it rebuilt,
he went completely through it and pronounced it good.
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: Gene Gillam [mailto:anngene at bellsouth.net] 
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 11:17 AM
To: bill_beecher at flash.net; 'list Triumph'; british-cars at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal

Like the mechanic said...Rebuild the starter.
Gene Gillam
Saucier, MS

bill_beecher at flash.net wrote:

>Just tried to fire up the TR yesterday after installing my new head 
>studs.
>The stock Lucas starter on my TR3 started acting real weak at the end 
>of last season but did get me going.  While in the shop, a reputable 
>Brit car guy, for other things I asked the mechanic about it and he 
>said it needed to be re-built.  The problem is that is will try to turn 
>the motor and act as if the battery is very low, if it cannot turn the 
>motor it will start to emit a squeal that sounds almost like a fan belt 
>slipping.
> 
>Cables are new from the new battery to the solenoid to the starter and 
>all the connections are tight and clean.  Is it possible that the 
>solenoid is sucking the power along the way?  The fully charged battery 
>will spin the motor for a few seconds then die to the squeal then 
>nothing, even with a 50a booster attached.
> 
>Any suggestions would be appreciated, TIA.
> 
>Bill
> 
>Bill Beecher
>'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
>www.triumphowners.com/1566
>"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of 
>course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>_______________________________________________
>British-cars at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
>$11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/british-cars/anngene at bellsouth.ne
>t

--
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jan 22 12:15:23 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 11:15:23 -0800
Subject: [TR] neat link
In-Reply-To: <DF24BE7ABA784A5EA364AB1A15674903@0817C93C637E473>
References: <DF24BE7ABA784A5EA364AB1A15674903@0817C93C637E473>
Message-ID: <021101cbba68$b85cdd90$0301a8c0@randall>

> 
> A magazine review for "in period."

Great article!  Thanks, Ken.

In case anyone would like to grab a copy, I put a downloadable
text-searchable PDF version at
http://tinyurl.com/687pm39

-- Randall  


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jan 22 12:49:21 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 11:49:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal
In-Reply-To: <1F96E008E6284FE291BC405D6DAEEF22@bboffice>
References: <77F32FB47CD041639ADFD8C0B2A25F0F@bboffice><81be110b-ac21-4d58-a600-a3b5b87a0832@email.android.com>
	<1F96E008E6284FE291BC405D6DAEEF22@bboffice>
Message-ID: <021301cbba6d$76ceb150$0301a8c0@randall>

> Sorry, I meant to mention that I did remove the starter and 
> had it rebuilt,
> he went completely through it and pronounced it good.

Mine had been, too.

Part of the problem is that the starter motor is a 4-pole design.  If one of
the brushes is not making good contact, the motor will still run just fine
with no load, on the other pair of brushes.  But it won't be strong enough
to crank the motor once it builds compression, and will stall out while
sucking lots and lots of current through the wires and solenoid, enough to
pull down the voltage of even a healthy battery.

Obviously you can try replacing the solenoid; but based on my experiences I
still think the starter (or possibly one of the ground straps) is more
likely.

-- Randall  


From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sat Jan 22 12:52:45 2011
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 14:52:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 interior and seat belts
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1295722802.6295.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1295722802.6295.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4D3B358D.9020601@gmail.com>

My experience is from a TR4A, and I don't remember if they came with the 
interior kit or the carpet kit (suspect the carpet kit), but you should 
have some matching, loose vinyl to cover the B-pillar and a small, 
triangular piece of vinyl covered cardboard to cover the gusset between 
the rocker panels and the B-pillar.  You cut the vinyl to fit and glue 
it over the pillar making it sure it reaches behind the vinyl wheel arch 
trim panel and the door seal.

For the seat belts there should be eye-bolts that screw into welded 
reinforcement plats with welded-on nuts behind the B-pillar and on the 
tunnel over the driveshaft.  The seat belts clip to the eye-bolts.

Ben....


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300


On 1/22/2011 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 12:02:18 -0500
> From: Gary O'Hagan<goh62agan at verizon.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR4 interior and seat belts
> To:triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID:<F99AA8F2-B215-4E35-B8BA-2060BD801B8A at verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> List,
> I'm working on my interior (in a very cold garage) and I have some questions.  The interior is getting lined with sound deadening and one wheel arch is covered with neoprene.  I was hoping it would warm up before gluing the vinyl in.  The interior panel kit from MOSS was purchased several years. One panel covers the area over the wheel arch and the door post.
> What covers the remaining door post and the "triangle area" near the base of the door post.
> My car is a '62 TR4 (? before seat belts were standard issue).  The seat belts were not attached when I got the car.  I don't know how the seat belts attach to the body.  There are bolts on the door post and drive train tunnel.  Do I assume the belts attach to these in some manner?
> http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab269/goh62agan/TR4%20after/IMG_2165.jpg
> http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab269/goh62agan/TR4%20after/IMG_1762.jpg
> Thanks,
> Gary O
>    

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Jan 22 13:07:39 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 15:07:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 interior and seat belts
In-Reply-To: <F99AA8F2-B215-4E35-B8BA-2060BD801B8A@verizon.net>
References: <F99AA8F2-B215-4E35-B8BA-2060BD801B8A@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <201101221507.40458.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, January 22, 2011 12:02:18 pm Gary O'Hagan wrote:
> List,
> I'm working on my interior (in a very cold garage) and I have some
> questions.  The interior is getting lined with sound deadening and one
> wheel arch is covered with neoprene.  I was hoping it would warm up before
> gluing the vinyl in.  The interior panel kit from MOSS was purchased
> several years. One panel covers the area over the wheel arch and the door
> post. What covers the remaining door post and the "triangle area" near the
> base of the door post. My car is a '62 TR4 (? before seat belts were
> standard issue).  The seat belts were not attached when I got the car.  I
> don't know how the seat belts attach to the body.  There are bolts on the
> door post and drive train tunnel.  Do I assume the belts attach to these
> in some manner?
> http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab269/goh62agan/TR4%20after/IMG_2165.jp
> g
> http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab269/goh62agan/TR4%20after/IMG_1762.jp
> g Thanks,
> Gary O
>
Gary,

The triangle area is a piece of board similar in thickness as the door panels. 
Once you glue the vinyl to the board, it is glued in place to the area. Insure 
you have extra at the bottom. The sill carpet will cover the overflow and help 
keep it in place.

You should have been shipped some extra vinyl from Moss in order to cover 
these and any other area. I did a 63 4 a few years back and used the Moss set 
and did get about 1/2 yard.

Here is a link to TRFs pattern. Note the part next to 806310. This is the 
piece. You should have it in your Moss kit I believe.

The seat belts on my 63 are attached to 2 each eye bolts. One each on each 
side of the drive shaft tunnel and one each on the inside of the B post.

There should be a very thick 1/4" plate on the inside of the wheel wells. The 
b post bolt goes through this and has a lock washer and lock nut. If you need 
the part #s let me know and I can look them up.

I am not sure what size the bolt is but I am guessing about 5/8"

Bob


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Jan 22 13:14:03 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 15:14:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] neat link
In-Reply-To: <021101cbba68$b85cdd90$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <DF24BE7ABA784A5EA364AB1A15674903@0817C93C637E473>
	<021101cbba68$b85cdd90$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <201101221514.04354.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, January 22, 2011 02:15:23 pm Randall wrote:
> > A magazine review for "in period."
> 
> Great article!  Thanks, Ken.
> 
> In case anyone would like to grab a copy, I put a downloadable
> text-searchable PDF version at
> http://tinyurl.com/687pm39
> 
> -- Randall
> 
Randall,

Thanks.

I am not sure the MG folks will like the beginning. But this is what sold me 
on the TR3 after owning a 57 MGA. Power difference did it for me.

Bob

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jan 22 13:41:37 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 12:41:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] neat link
In-Reply-To: <201101221514.04354.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <DF24BE7ABA784A5EA364AB1A15674903@0817C93C637E473>
	<021101cbba68$b85cdd90$0301a8c0@randall>
	<201101221514.04354.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <022a01cbba74$c461af60$0301a8c0@randall>

> I am not sure the MG folks will like the beginning. But this 
> is what sold me 
> on the TR3 after owning a 57 MGA. Power difference did it for me.

I also much preferred the body lines of the TR3, kind of like comparing Gina
Lollobrigida to Twiggy.  But the power difference certainly helped a lot as
well.

I used to run around with a buddy that drove a 58 MGA.  Down in Florida one
time, neither of us had a top with us and there was a great big thunderstorm
blowing in.  There being limits to our friendship, I stomped the TR and
outran the storm.  Guess who was soaked to the skin when he finally caught
up <G>

Oddly enough, the TR also burned less gas even without overdrive.

-- Randall


From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat Jan 22 14:23:04 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 16:23:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal
In-Reply-To: <021301cbba6d$76ceb150$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <77F32FB47CD041639ADFD8C0B2A25F0F@bboffice>
	<81be110b-ac21-4d58-a600-a3b5b87a0832@email.android.com>
	<1F96E008E6284FE291BC405D6DAEEF22@bboffice>
	<021301cbba6d$76ceb150$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikAhDHdEk8JvbNVakMZqBHT+X6JDCTWNUU1WyY9@mail.gmail.com>

I've had the brush issue myself.   the car just would not start -- I thought
it was a tired battery.  Bought a new one and it did not do the trick. --
being a bit naieve - I went and bought the biggest battery that would fit in
the hole.   It would still barely turn but did get it started - likely cause
the engine had low compression....

I tore into the starter and found one of the brush holders had broken - as I
had to be on the road early the next morning - I had a brass angle bracket
that I used to bolt the thing together to get me going.  10 or more years
later -- I still haven't gone back and fixed it properly...

I will address it when I rebuild the engine -- most times when I start the
car - I get this wraaang noise after it's cranked -  I assume the starter
drive gear is not retracting fast enough...  If the noise comes after it's
started - could be your rebuilder used grease to lube the sliding assembly
-- that will get cha...

Chris

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jan 22 14:55:56 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 14:55:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikAhDHdEk8JvbNVakMZqBHT+X6JDCTWNUU1WyY9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <77F32FB47CD041639ADFD8C0B2A25F0F@bboffice><81be110b-ac21-4d58-a600-a3b5b87a0832@email.android.com><1F96E008E6284FE291BC405D6DAEEF22@bboffice><021301cbba6d$76ceb150$0301a8c0@randall>
	<AANLkTikAhDHdEk8JvbNVakMZqBHT+X6JDCTWNUU1WyY9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <74D5B86ECAAC449DAC6A448D630E70BA@bboffice>

Chris,
Thanks, someone else mentioned the weak brush holder too.  I am getting the
same symptom that you describe, guess I will have to pull it and take it
back to the guy that just re-built it last week.  Oh joy!

Thank you,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 2:23 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal

I've had the brush issue myself.   the car just would not start -- I thought
it was a tired battery.  Bought a new one and it did not do the trick. --
being a bit naieve - I went and bought the biggest battery that would fit in
the hole.   It would still barely turn but did get it started - likely cause
the engine had low compression....

I tore into the starter and found one of the brush holders had broken - as I
had to be on the road early the next morning - I had a brass angle bracket
that I used to bolt the thing together to get me going.  10 or more years
later -- I still haven't gone back and fixed it properly...

I will address it when I rebuild the engine -- most times when I start the
car - I get this wraaang noise after it's cranked -  I assume the starter
drive gear is not retracting fast enough...  If the noise comes after it's
started - could be your rebuilder used grease to lube the sliding assembly
-- that will get cha...

Chris
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat Jan 22 15:34:51 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 17:34:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Paint Codes Needed
Message-ID: <2384B236D21540FA8923042161C0F6FA@TRGUY>

I have an early 62 TR4 (CT5212LO). Anyone know the correct white to use for the dash and happen to have the paint codes that could cross reference to Dupont and others etc.  I believe there was Spa White and New White?? 
Thanks,
Jim Heningsen
Maitland, FL

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jan 22 16:04:28 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 16:04:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikAhDHdEk8JvbNVakMZqBHT+X6JDCTWNUU1WyY9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <77F32FB47CD041639ADFD8C0B2A25F0F@bboffice><81be110b-ac21-4d58-a600-a3b5b87a0832@email.android.com><1F96E008E6284FE291BC405D6DAEEF22@bboffice><021301cbba6d$76ceb150$0301a8c0@randall>
	<AANLkTikAhDHdEk8JvbNVakMZqBHT+X6JDCTWNUU1WyY9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <83B7338BE69E4C3780367C51748D95FD@bboffice>

Chris,

Congratulations, you are the 'Genius du Jour'.  I reached down and put my
hand on the stalled starter to see if it was hot or I could feel anything
rattling inside and it took off spinning as if there were no spark plugs.
Even though it was tightly bolted up and I could not discern that it moved
at all.  

I am guessing that the rebuilder got paint on the end of the mounting
surface and it was creating the insulation that was preventing a good
ground.

Live and learn!

MANY thanks to everyone who responded with excellent suggestions, I tried
them all.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 2:23 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal

I've had the brush issue myself.   the car just would not start -- I thought
it was a tired battery.  Bought a new one and it did not do the trick. --
being a bit naieve - I went and bought the biggest battery that would fit in
the hole.   It would still barely turn but did get it started - likely cause
the engine had low compression....

I tore into the starter and found one of the brush holders had broken - as I
had to be on the road early the next morning - I had a brass angle bracket
that I used to bolt the thing together to get me going.  10 or more years
later -- I still haven't gone back and fixed it properly...

I will address it when I rebuild the engine -- most times when I start the
car - I get this wraaang noise after it's cranked -  I assume the starter
drive gear is not retracting fast enough...  If the noise comes after it's
started - could be your rebuilder used grease to lube the sliding assembly
-- that will get cha...

Chris
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jan 22 16:06:39 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 16:06:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal
References: <77F32FB47CD041639ADFD8C0B2A25F0F@bboffice><81be110b-ac21-4d58-a600-a3b5b87a0832@email.android.com><1F96E008E6284FE291BC405D6DAEEF22@bboffice><021301cbba6d$76ceb150$0301a8c0@randall>
	<AANLkTikAhDHdEk8JvbNVakMZqBHT+X6JDCTWNUU1WyY9@mail.gmail.com> 
Message-ID: <153B2477262045FFBC4B5BC3DCA8F234@bboffice>

Apologies to Bob, it was your suggestion that solved the problem.  Too many
emails today... 

Thanks to all,

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] 
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 4:04 PM
To: 'Chris Simo'; 'list Triumph'
Subject: RE: [TR] [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal

Chris,

Congratulations, you are the 'Genius du Jour'.  I reached down and put my
hand on the stalled starter to see if it was hot or I could feel anything
rattling inside and it took off spinning as if there were no spark plugs.
Even though it was tightly bolted up and I could not discern that it moved
at all.  

I am guessing that the rebuilder got paint on the end of the mounting
surface and it was creating the insulation that was preventing a good
ground.

Live and learn!

MANY thanks to everyone who responded with excellent suggestions, I tried
them all.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 2:23 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Lucas Starter Squeal

I've had the brush issue myself.   the car just would not start -- I thought
it was a tired battery.  Bought a new one and it did not do the trick. --
being a bit naieve - I went and bought the biggest battery that would fit in
the hole.   It would still barely turn but did get it started - likely cause
the engine had low compression....

I tore into the starter and found one of the brush holders had broken - as I
had to be on the road early the next morning - I had a brass angle bracket
that I used to bolt the thing together to get me going.  10 or more years
later -- I still haven't gone back and fixed it properly...

I will address it when I rebuild the engine -- most times when I start the
car - I get this wraaang noise after it's cranked -  I assume the starter
drive gear is not retracting fast enough...  If the noise comes after it's
started - could be your rebuilder used grease to lube the sliding assembly
-- that will get cha...

Chris
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From goh62agan at verizon.net  Sat Jan 22 16:32:05 2011
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 18:32:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 interior and seat belts
In-Reply-To: <4D3B358D.9020601@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.5.1295722802.6295.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4D3B358D.9020601@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5F6F53B0-CF21-4065-80E4-4248FE3288C1@verizon.net>


On Jan 22, 2011, at 2:52 PM, Ben Zwissler wrote:
Thanks to all who replied.

> , but you should have some matching, loose vinyl to cover the B-pillar
Yes I have loose vinyl and can cover the exposed areas.
> and a small, triangular piece of vinyl covered cardboard
My kit didn't come with these.  I can make them, just don't know the exact size so it may not come out just right.
>      
> For the seat belts there should be eye-bolts that screw into welded reinforcement plats with welded-on nuts behind the B-pillar and on the tunnel over the driveshaft.  The seat belts clip to the eye-bolts.

I don't have eyebolts, but shouldn't have trouble finding some.  Also don't have welded reinforcements.
Gary

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sat Jan 22 16:42:15 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 18:42:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Paint Codes Needed
In-Reply-To: <2384B236D21540FA8923042161C0F6FA@TRGUY>
References: <2384B236D21540FA8923042161C0F6FA@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <8CD88A521F0E109-EF0-10D0C@webmail-d062.sysops.aol.com>

I'm pretty sure that the early TR4 metal dash was Spa White.

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

-----Original Message-----
From: James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com>


I have an early 62 TR4 (CT5212LO). Anyone know the correct white to use 
for the
dash and happen to have the paint codes that could cross reference to 
Dupont and
others etc.  I believe there was Spa White and New White?? 

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Jan 22 17:24:34 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 00:24:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 interior and seat belts
In-Reply-To: <4D3B358D.9020601@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <419765451.1687456.1295742274951.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Virtually all car seat belt fittings are 7/16-fine. Even on Metric cars. 


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From staffel at comcast.net  Sat Jan 22 17:41:25 2011
From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 00:41:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Commission Plate
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTina1wwV2fXJZCzJ3TcwCpL2jyhwdShinzrvD6pW@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTina1wwV2fXJZCzJ3TcwCpL2jyhwdShinzrvD6pW@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1094471421-1295743284-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1428547087-@bda801.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Hi George! Good to hear from you.
I do have my orig data plate (no paint on it left, which I keep with my MD title, but I replaced my plate 11yrs ago during restoration with your 'catalog pic plate' (lbs).  As per my orig data plate notes and familarity I know it was lbs not kilos. 
 As I used a punch set, I 'updated  my 'paint code' to be reflective of what I did with the restoration.
If you can't deciiper, my COMM# is CT40054L.  What is yours? 

I was the first owner of the TR. I bought it in Dec 68 upon return from SEAsia. It was the OKC dealer salesman's 'demo' and don't think it even arrived at the dealership until spring 66.  See this link:
home.comcast.net/~staffel/TR4oklahoma.html
1st licensed by me in '68 before that on dealer tags!
Check out the TRworrkshop links, now 11 yrs home for the TR4.  Sherman
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 10:08:30 
To: <staffel at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Commission Plate

On 1/21/11, staffel at comcast.net <staffel at comcast.net> wrote:
> My TR4 (last US existing prod # per VTR)...

Hey Sheman --

Since you have such a late TR4 perhaps you could tell me whether your
commission plate looks like the first attachment or the second?

The difference is 'KILOS' vs 'LBS'.

Documentation is inconsistent -- Piggott says the change came with the
TR4A but my late TR4 has Kilos.  Just curious what yours, being so
close to the change point) would have.  Many Thanks!

Geo H


From dwillner at ptd.net  Sun Jan 23 06:14:44 2011
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 08:14:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 seat belts
Message-ID: <62C475E1FC66454B86CFC943F6086D43@valued9cfc0b6f>

Does anyone have the drawings with the measurements for where the holes go in the floor pans for the securing the seat belts? I just replaced the pans, and I can't find the drawing I thought I saved...thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jan 23 07:52:10 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 09:52:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 interior and seat belts
In-Reply-To: <5F6F53B0-CF21-4065-80E4-4248FE3288C1@verizon.net>
References: <mailman.5.1295722802.6295.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4D3B358D.9020601@gmail.com>
	<5F6F53B0-CF21-4065-80E4-4248FE3288C1@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <201101230952.11140.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

 
> I don't have eyebolts, but shouldn't have trouble finding some.  Also don't
> have welded reinforcements. Gary
Gary,

The reinforcements are not welded on my 63 4 so I am guessing they are not 
welded on your 62. I searched for the part but couldn't find it. Let me know 
if you need a photo and I can try to go in to the garage and try. Not sure if 
I can get a photo as it is very cold and I dont want to be removing the tire 
in sub zero weather.

The eye bolts are available from the big 3. If you cant find them, shoot me an 
email. I have a set that came with my 4 seatbelts I didn't use.

If you want them, I will offer them to you for what you think they are worth. 
They are NOS complete with the nuts and washers.

Bob

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Jan 23 15:16:58 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 14:16:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] fuel system question
Message-ID: <804591.72192.qm@web65307.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

If it were my fuel tank I'd look for a local welding shop and simply have them 
weld in a whole new bottom.  That would be the most economical choice I'm 
thinking.

gary n.



      

From pryner at verizon.net  Sun Jan 23 16:05:11 2011
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 18:05:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] fuel system question
In-Reply-To: <804591.72192.qm@web65307.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <804591.72192.qm@web65307.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BBA4604708304235B775544DB1E6363A@PetePC>

I didn't see the first part of this thread, but as far as repairing TR fuel 
tanks, Gary is right on.  I had some pinholes in my tank and took it in to 
have them welded.  The welder convinced me to put a new bottom on and it was 
a very smart move.  He said he removed several mice, a nest and various 
other items from the tank with the tank open.  Haven't had a problem in 21 
years since.
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 5:16 PM
Subject: [TR] fuel system question


> If it were my fuel tank I'd look for a local welding shop and simply have 
> them
> weld in a whole new bottom.  That would be the most economical choice I'm
> thinking.
>
> gary n.
>
>
>
> 


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Jan 23 18:51:53 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 20:51:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 / GT6 pistons
Message-ID: <BLU156-w53BE5EC0CF0C3EA09CF027BAFD0@phx.gbl>


Pistons between TR6 and GT6, one is taller and one has cut outs at the bottom of the skirt. I don't recall which is which, somebody straighten me out. Also, are the rings the same?

thanks,
Marty
 		 	   		  

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Jan 23 19:38:04 2011
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 21:38:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 / GT6 pistons
In-Reply-To: <BLU156-w53BE5EC0CF0C3EA09CF027BAFD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4D3C9FBC.12400.7289F00@localhost>

On 23 Jan 2011 at 20:51, marty sukey wrote:

> Pistons between TR6 and GT6, one is taller and one has cut outs
> at the bottom of the skirt

I don't really know but if I had to guess I'd say the cutouts are on 
the TR6.  The bore was the same but the TR6 had a longer stroke.  
That would create a greater maximum angle between the connecting rod 
and the axis of the cylinder.

But what do I know?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+


From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Jan 23 22:09:46 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2011 05:09:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 interior and seat belts
In-Reply-To: <1607045241.1731475.1295845635225.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1641793926.1731536.1295845786138.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> The seat belts on my 63 are attached to 2 each eye bolts. One each on
> each 
> side of the drive shaft tunnel and one each on the inside of the B
> post.
> 
> There should be a very thick 1/4" plate on the inside of the wheel
> wells. The 
> b post bolt goes through this and has a lock washer and lock nut. If
> you need 
> the part #s let me know and I can look them up.
> 
> I am not sure what size the bolt is but I am guessing about 5/8"
> 
> Bob

Virtually every car equipped with seat belts from the factory uses bolts which are 7/16-fine.  Even metric cars.  I took an eyebolt out of an MGB and put it in a Miata.

Phil Ethier

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jan 24 09:15:38 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2011 16:15:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] neat link to TR2 test
In-Reply-To: <1601059079.1745847.1295885699835.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1706736285.1745909.1295885738812.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Look at the photos of the magazine rather than the printed text on the website.  That's "A hairy-chested, flame-SPITTING wildcat".

The error comes from character-recognition software, I bet.

I remember when I was a kid reading MI, I lived Tom's overheated vebiage.  I remember a TR4 he tested that he said was "redder than the eyes of a bloodshot bishop".

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: wbeech at flash.net
> To: "Ken Gano, home PC" <triumphs at consolidated.net>, "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 9:47:28 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] neat link
> 
> Wow, I didn't realize it this was such a wild car, "A hairy-chested,
> flame-spiffing wildcat".
> 
> A real fun article to lift the spirits of every TR2-3 owner.
> 
> Thanks for sharing,
> Bill 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ken Gano, home
> PC
> Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 10:32 PM
> To: list Triumph
> Subject: [TR] neat link
> 
> A magazine review for "in period."
> 
> http://blog.modernmechanix.com/2009/04/30/mi-tests-the-triumph-tr-2/#more-77
> 12
> 
> kg
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From guy at genfiniti.com  Tue Jan 25 09:29:23 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 10:29:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Radiator Overflow Bottle Placement
Message-ID: <00068DBA-5259-424E-A8D6-72BC54E9A4B9@genfiniti.com>

All,

Looking to add a new radiator overflow bottle to the car.
It has an "L" shaped bracket, with a perpendicular loop on the vertical part of the "L", into which the bottle slides.

I am looking for a place to bolt this into, and the only place that makes sense is the front body mount, which is on the same chassis support the radiator bolts into.

Does anyone know where Triumph put these things?  The workshop manual says nothing.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Jan 25 11:17:50 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 10:17:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] cam end float
Message-ID: <303217.74594.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I'm assembling my tr-3 engine and don't understand this problem.  I've put on 
the front plate, inserted the cam and bolted down the front cam bearing only to 
find I have at least 1/4 inch of end play.  This is the same cam and front 
bearing i took off the engine.  In looking down the tappet holes it seems the 
cam lobes don't line up "centered" on the holes when the cam is pushed all the 
way back but they do line up when pushed farther forward.  Leading me to wonder 
if there's a spacer or something at the rear of the engine.  The machinist had 
already installed the end cap/plug at the rear of the block so i can't see in 
there to see if anything is missing.  I see one of the cam bearings has a set 
screw............but I assumed the front bearing controls the end float not the 
bearing set screw.  


any suggestions?

gary n.



      

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jan 25 11:47:28 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 10:47:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] cam end float
In-Reply-To: <303217.74594.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <303217.74594.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <006301cbbcc0$50fea700$f2fbf500$@rr.com>

Did you install the cam sprocket before checking the end float?  It is what
limits how far the cam can move back, by hitting the front edge of the front
cam bearing.  The cam should not touch the plug in the back.

The lobes aren't supposed to be centered under the lifter bores.  They are
off to one side, to encourage the lifters to turn in operation, for reduced
wear.

-- Randall 


From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Jan 25 11:49:33 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 12:49:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] cam end float
In-Reply-To: <303217.74594.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <303217.74594.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20110125184930.2797518765C@autox.team.net>

You need to have the cam sprocket bolted onto the front of the cam to 
measure the end float. The cam is captured on the front bearing 
housing between the shoulder on the cam and the sprocket's inner face.

- Tony

At 12:17 PM 1/25/2011, Gary Nafziger wrote:
>I'm assembling my tr-3 engine and don't understand this problem.  I've put on
>the front plate, inserted the cam and bolted down the front cam 
>bearing only to
>find I have at least 1/4 inch of end play.  This is the same cam and front
>bearing i took off the engine.  In looking down the tappet holes it seems the
>cam lobes don't line up "centered" on the holes when the cam is 
>pushed all the
>way back but they do line up when pushed farther forward.  Leading 
>me to wonder
>if there's a spacer or something at the rear of the engine.  The 
>machinist had
>already installed the end cap/plug at the rear of the block so i can't see in
>there to see if anything is missing.  I see one of the cam bearings has a set
>screw............but I assumed the front bearing controls the end 
>float not the
>bearing set screw.
>
>
>any suggestions?
>
>gary n.
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Manage your account: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com



From carlsereda at aol.com  Tue Jan 25 12:48:34 2011
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 11:48:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4A overflowbottle location
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1295982001.29433.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AF4DE7F5.9A1C.4A73.9D18.4D8CF93C13B8@aol.com>

I removed a TR4-A radiator overflow bottle back around 1979 (for my 
TR4) and it was located at front right bottom radiator area. I 
installed the bottle bracket under same bolt that holds my right 
bottom of radiator... works great... I don't recall how it was exactly 
situated on the TR4-A (with the wider radiator) but I think you are in 
the right area!
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

I am looking for a place to bolt this into, and the only place that 
makes sense is the front body mount, which is on the same chassis 
support the radiator bolts into


From dwillner at ptd.net  Tue Jan 25 13:55:35 2011
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 15:55:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A body number tags
Message-ID: <0019C5A506CA4249BD8506AA3D9A30CB@valued9cfc0b6f>

Were the two brass body number tags (over the battery) on the firewall originally riveted in place like the commission plates, or just screwed in with brass slotted screws...I have screws on mine, but have seen several riveted lately.  Thanks 

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jan 25 14:41:06 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 16:41:06 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3A body number tags
Message-ID: <931e1.30250382.3a709d72@cs.com>

In a message dated 1/25/2011 3:27:17 PM Central Standard Time, 
dwillner at ptd.net writes: 
> Were the two brass body number tags (over the battery) on the firewall 
> originally riveted in place like the commission plates, or just screwed in 
> with brass slotted screws...I have screws on mine, but have seen several 
> riveted lately.  Thanks 
> 

For some reason I had it in my mind that they were held in with screws.  So 
I put mine in with screws.  Stainless.  Slotted.  Just like the factory 
would have.  Except the stainless part.  I might have to ding myself a few 
points at the next concours.

Dave

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Jan 25 15:16:53 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 14:16:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A body number tags
In-Reply-To: <931e1.30250382.3a709d72@cs.com>
References: <931e1.30250382.3a709d72@cs.com>
Message-ID: <506270.98765.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

mine where screwed also. round head slots
Frank




________________________________
From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, January 25, 2011 1:41:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A body number tags

In a message dated 1/25/2011 3:27:17 PM Central Standard Time, 
dwillner at ptd.net writes: 
> Were the two brass body number tags (over the battery) on the firewall 
> originally riveted in place like the commission plates, or just screwed in 
> with brass slotted screws...I have screws on mine, but have seen several 
> riveted lately.? Thanks 
> 

For some reason I had it in my mind that they were held in with screws.? So 
I put mine in with screws.? Stainless.? Slotted.? Just like the factory 
would have.? Except the stainless part.? I might have to ding myself a few 
points at the next concours.

Dave
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Jan 25 15:18:28 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 14:18:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A body number tags
In-Reply-To: <931e1.30250382.3a709d72@cs.com>
References: <931e1.30250382.3a709d72@cs.com>
Message-ID: <766183.15200.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

by the way
i have a source of original looking rivets for the vin tags. not pop rivets.
frank




________________________________
From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, January 25, 2011 1:41:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A body number tags

In a message dated 1/25/2011 3:27:17 PM Central Standard Time, 
dwillner at ptd.net writes: 
> Were the two brass body number tags (over the battery) on the firewall 
> originally riveted in place like the commission plates, or just screwed in 
> with brass slotted screws...I have screws on mine, but have seen several 
> riveted lately.? Thanks 
> 

For some reason I had it in my mind that they were held in with screws.? So 
I put mine in with screws.? Stainless.? Slotted.? Just like the factory 
would have.? Except the stainless part.? I might have to ding myself a few 
points at the next concours.

Dave
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Jan 25 15:38:50 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 14:38:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] cam end float thanks!
Message-ID: <345324.64372.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Thanks for those that responded to the end float question.  The book says to 
check the end float as soon as you get the front cam bearing bolted on which 
confused the whole issue because the cam can be moved forward and back a liberal 
amount.  Thanks also to the suggestion to check the oil opening on the rear cam 
bearing which goes to the valve train.  


thanks again!

gary n.


      

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Jan 25 15:41:53 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 17:41:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A body number tags
In-Reply-To: <931e1.30250382.3a709d72@cs.com>
References: <931e1.30250382.3a709d72@cs.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAFwtM0e3IIxGqRxZImBXsEsBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

FROM TRA Judging Guide

Chassis Plate.   This is a brass plate mounted on the firewall above and
left center of the battery.  Mounting is done with pan-headed, slotted,
sheet-metal screws.
EB Plate.   This plate is mounted above the Chassis Plate.  Mounting is done
with pan-headed, slotted, sheet-metal screws.  The plate is painted body
color.  Numbers stamped on plate begin with "EB".  TR3Bs do not have the EB
plates.

My note:
EB Plate screws should be body color as well.



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2011 4:41 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A body number tags

In a message dated 1/25/2011 3:27:17 PM Central Standard Time,
dwillner at ptd.net writes: 
> Were the two brass body number tags (over the battery) on the firewall 
> originally riveted in place like the commission plates, or just 
> screwed in with brass slotted screws...I have screws on mine, but have 
> seen several riveted lately.  Thanks
> 

For some reason I had it in my mind that they were held in with screws.  So 
I put mine in with screws.  Stainless.  Slotted.  Just like the factory 
would have.  Except the stainless part.  I might have to ding myself a few 
points at the next concours.

Dave
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net



From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Tue Jan 25 17:50:09 2011
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 19:50:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6160.1295357339.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6160.1295357339.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <99BF8489-DDE3-4D04-9689-7282E60C5EFF@mgcarclub.com>

I was away for a week and so I'm late to this party. Some time ago a  
friend stated that the fascination in browsing the aisles of the  
hardware store (before Home Depot, etc) was that we were looking for  
solutions to problems that we haven't had yet. That's the way the list  
works for me. Lots of information comes in whether I was looking for  
it or not. When there is a solution to a problem I I have or haven't  
had I save it in a simple database for future reference.

Allen

On Jan 18, 2011, at 8:28 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Subject: Re: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
>
>
> Counterpoint to Bob.  I prefer the current Triumph email list over a  
> forum format.  I like the fact that the list comes to me -  I don't  
> have to go to it.  If I don't visit a forum for a few weeks or  
> months, I miss all that information.  I'll usually only catch up on  
> the last page or two of forum topics if I haven't visited for a while.
>
> More importantly, with the list, I know that my questions go  
> directly to everyone's inbox, increasing my chances of getting my  
> problem solved timely.


From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Tue Jan 25 19:05:46 2011
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 18:05:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4A overflowbottle location
In-Reply-To: <AF4DE7F5.9A1C.4A73.9D18.4D8CF93C13B8@aol.com>
References: <mailman.5.1295982001.29433.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<AF4DE7F5.9A1C.4A73.9D18.4D8CF93C13B8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002601cbbcfd$8c646a90$a52d3fb0$@rr.com>

On top of the cross mount and underneath the right radiator mount ear is
correct. If you look at the bracket closely you'll see that the bracket is
angled specifically for this location.

Johnnie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of carlsereda
> Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2011 11:49 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A overflowbottle location
> 
> I removed a TR4-A radiator overflow bottle back around 1979 (for my
> TR4) and it was located at front right bottom radiator area. I
> installed the bottle bracket under same bolt that holds my right
> bottom of radiator... works great... I don't recall how it was exactly
> situated on the TR4-A (with the wider radiator) but I think you are in
> the right area!
> Carl
> '63 TR4 since '74
> 
> I am looking for a place to bolt this into, and the only place that
> makes sense is the front body mount, which is on the same chassis
> support the radiator bolts into
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdonnel1 at san.rr.com


From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Jan 25 19:14:36 2011
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 02:14:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] Stainless oil pressure hose with solid pipe up to guage ?
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529D1AD51@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I wonder if someone could tell me where I can find the oil pressure line configuration shown on this white early TR3A. The picture is from the VTR national last year and I apologize for not making a note of the owner of this North Carolina TR.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/VTR2010/IMG_0512.jpg

Stan

From j.honor at comcast.net  Tue Jan 25 20:29:27 2011
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 21:29:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Stainless oil pressure hose with solid pipe up to guage ?
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529D1AD51@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529D1AD51@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <8F0DDAA1-526D-4618-ACFC-057314D0A2C6@comcast.net>

Stan check with  TSI parts as Ted sells a steel braided oil gauge line for TR6 may have ones for other TRs Regards Joe

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 25, 2011, at 8:14 PM, "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" <stan.foster at hp.com> wrote:

> I wonder if someone could tell me where I can find the oil pressure line configuration shown on this white early TR3A. The picture is from the VTR national last year and I apologize for not making a note of the owner of this North Carolina TR.
> 
> http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/VTR2010/IMG_0512.jpg
> 
> Stan
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/j.honor at comcast.net
> 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Tue Jan 25 20:51:17 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 21:51:17 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Stainless oil pressure hose with solid pipe up to guage ?
Message-ID: <32781008.548097.1296013877944.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>

Contact Ted at TSI imports.  He started making them because of my story about a catastrophic oil pressure gauge line on my 72 Triumph TR6.

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com

Craig 
Vienna, VA


Jan 25, 2011 09:40:26 PM, stan.foster at hp.com wrote:

I wonder if someone could tell me where I can find the oil pressure line configuration shown on this white early TR3A. The picture is from the VTR national last year and I apologize for not making a note of the owner of this North Carolina TR.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/VTR2010/IMG_0512.jpg

Stan
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Jan 26 05:48:16 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 07:48:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Stainless oil pressure hose with solid pipe up to guage ?
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529D1AD51@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529D1AD51@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <201101260748.16948.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday, January 25, 2011 09:14:36 pm Foster, Stan (HP IT) wrote:
> I wonder if someone could tell me where I can find the oil pressure line
> configuration shown on this white early TR3A. The picture is from the VTR
> national last year and I apologize for not making a note of the owner of
> this North Carolina TR.
> 
> http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/VTR2010/IMG_0512.jpg
> 
> Stan
Stan,

Yes Ted does sell them for the 3,4 and 6. I put one on the 6 and is is much 
better than the OEM plastic line.

But the 3 had a steel line originally which I find superior even to the part 
Ted sells. The braided line will eventually go, but the steel line will last 
forever.

The only part on the 3 and 4 that will go is the braided line from the engine 
to the steel line. That is a 5 minute fix with a new line from TRF and you 
don't have to remove the OP gauge to install the line.

I see the steel lines on Ebay from time to time and TRF sells a better than 
OEM braided line from the engine.

Both my 3 and 4 are stock steel lines.

Bob

From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jan 26 06:04:42 2011
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 08:04:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A body number tags
In-Reply-To: <766183.15200.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <931e1.30250382.3a709d72@cs.com>
	<766183.15200.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CD8B70BB395445-684-48CF@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>

And I think you already sent me some.  Thanks very much.

Dave


-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>



by the way
i have a source of original looking rivets for the vin tags. not pop rivets.
frank


      


 

From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jan 26 06:13:05 2011
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 08:13:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A body number tags
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAFwtM0e3IIxGqRxZImBXsEsBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <931e1.30250382.3a709d72@cs.com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAFwtM0e3IIxGqRxZImBXsEsBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <8CD8B71E73EE00F-684-4A36@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>


 Which makes sense.  This is how they kept track of the body shell as it went through paint and such.

Points off for me for having plates that are polished and sealed brass with stainless screws.  But they are panhead!

Dave

 

 


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>


FROM TRA Judging Guide



Chassis Plate.   This is a brass plate mounted on the firewall above and

left center of the battery.  Mounting is done with pan-headed, slotted,

sheet-metal screws.

EB Plate.   This plate is mounted above the Chassis Plate.  Mounting is done

with pan-headed, slotted, sheet-metal screws.  The plate is painted body

color.  Numbers stamped on plate begin with "EB".  TR3Bs do not have the EB

plates.



My note:

EB Plate screws should be body color as well.







 

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed Jan 26 06:32:15 2011
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 08:32:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1295982001.29433.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1295982001.29433.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAALnrYeak21RMhEtCF4E32l0BAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

Hello List,
I will be stamping a replacement VIN, I do not have an original.
Is the 1/8" the most correct size letter/number stamp set?
I see these sets are currently on sale at HF.
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Jan 26 09:59:24 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 11:59:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAALnrYeak21RMhEtCF4E32l0BAAAAAA==@optonline.net>
References: <mailman.5.1295982001.29433.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAALnrYeak21RMhEtCF4E32l0BAAAAAA==@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <769BF51307454A7F9EA56E13C63C4ECF@BobPC>

Maybe too late, but you might want to check with your DMV on registration of 
a car with a replacement VIN plate. There's been horror stories of guys 
trying to get a car registered with the original VIN plate but new rivets 
holding it in place. It seems to vary by state and even inspection center 
within a state.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 8:32 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping

Hello List,
I will be stamping a replacement VIN, I do not have an original.
Is the 1/8" the most correct size letter/number stamp set?
I see these sets are currently on sale at HF.
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed Jan 26 10:09:06 2011
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 12:09:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping
In-Reply-To: <769BF51307454A7F9EA56E13C63C4ECF@BobPC>
References: <mailman.5.1295982001.29433.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAALnrYeak21RMhEtCF4E32l0BAAAAAA==@optonline.net>
	<769BF51307454A7F9EA56E13C63C4ECF@BobPC>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAJvdC651VBBFvU1bqY2wAo8BAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

Hey Bob Thanks,
My car (71-TR6)is already registered without problem, I got a title and
heritage papers with it. 
Also the windshield VIN tag is attached. 
The door post has holes where VIN tag belongs so I'll be making that right.
Regards,
Bob 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 11:59 AM
To: Bob; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] VIN stamping

Maybe too late, but you might want to check with your DMV on registration of
a car with a replacement VIN plate. There's been horror stories of guys
trying to get a car registered with the original VIN plate but new rivets
holding it in place. It seems to vary by state and even inspection center
within a state.

Bob
 


From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jan 26 14:12:01 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 21:12:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping
In-Reply-To: <769BF51307454A7F9EA56E13C63C4ECF@BobPC>
Message-ID: <825657802.1893720.1296076321516.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> Maybe too late, but you might want to check with your DMV on
> registration of 
> a car with a replacement VIN plate. There's been horror stories of
> guys 
> trying to get a car registered with the original VIN plate but new
> rivets 
> holding it in place. It seems to vary by state and even inspection
> center 
> within a state.

As if an inspector ever came near my cars.  LOL.  Even when I brought in a Caterham Seven from Wisconsin, they just accepted the New-Hampshire-issued ID number from the Wisconsin title.  Nobody ever saw if there even *was* a car...

As you say, states differ.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From rolds at plausa.com  Wed Jan 26 15:30:49 2011
From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 22:30:49 +0000
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping
In-Reply-To: <825657802.1893720.1296076321516.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <769BF51307454A7F9EA56E13C63C4ECF@BobPC>
	<825657802.1893720.1296076321516.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E50543A3@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>

North Carolina is quite an interesting experience.  To get a title for an car it must be inspected by a state police vehicle inspector who does know what he is talking about.  If he doesn't accept the car you will not even get a title.

Ronald Olds
Sales Manager
Plasser American Corporation
PO Box 5464
2001 Myers Road
Chesapeake, VA 23324-0464
?
Phone? (757) 543-3526
Cell????? (630) 240-0818
Fax???? ?(757) 494-7186?
?
The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may be proprietary, privileged or confidential and is intended solely for the use of the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or any other such use is strictly prohibited.?Furthermore, any reviews, semination or copying by anyone other than the intended recipient is expressly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender and destroy all copies of the original transmittal.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:12 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: Bob; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] VIN stamping

> From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Maybe too late, 
> but you might want to check with your DMV on registration of a car 
> with a replacement VIN plate. There's been horror stories of guys 
> trying to get a car registered with the original VIN plate but new 
> rivets holding it in place. It seems to vary by state and even 
> inspection center within a state.

As if an inspector ever came near my cars.  LOL.  Even when I brought in a Caterham Seven from Wisconsin, they just accepted the New-Hampshire-issued ID number from the Wisconsin title.  Nobody ever saw if there even *was* a car...

As you say, states differ.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rolds at plausa.com


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jan 26 16:21:15 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 15:21:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping
In-Reply-To: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E50543A3@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
References: <769BF51307454A7F9EA56E13C63C4ECF@BobPC>	<825657802.1893720.1296076321516.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E50543A3@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
Message-ID: <018d01cbbdaf$bb154190$313fc4b0$@rr.com>

> North Carolina is quite an interesting experience.  To get a title for
> an car it must be inspected by a state police vehicle inspector who
> does know what he is talking about.  If he doesn't accept the car you
> will not even get a title.

California is much the same, for newer cars.  I almost didn't get a title
for my second Stag, because of some VIN plate shenanigans that happened
years before.  But the fellow I bought it from had no trouble registering it
in OK, apparently no one even looked at the VIN plate.

-- Randall 


From adcronin at mi.rr.com  Wed Jan 26 17:45:05 2011
From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 19:45:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Drive pulley size reduction, thin belt H2O/Amp speeds
Message-ID: <6847C9D5-7AB4-41CB-9DB6-DA23A654E6E0@mi.rr.com>

1/26
I recently purchased a ATI Damper only to discover that the drive pulley hub that comes with it is appro. 3-5/8" diameter at outer lip vs. the Alloy thin belt damper/pulley's appro. 5-1/8" diameter (stock pulley was appro. 5-1/2").
The thin belt water pump pulley is appro. 4" at outer vs stock's appro. 4-1/8, so no diff. there.  The thin belt alternator pulley is appro. 2-3/4" outer, vs stock generator's 3-1/4".  Since output is apples to oranges between alternator and generator am wondering  if there is a consensus on what speeds the alternators should run at---am using a Delco 63 amp unit.  Am also wondering if the slower speed that the water pump will run at will be a problem as I am going to be using the six vein aftermarket pump in alloy housing and running an 12" electric fan.  Thoughts?  Suggestions?  Other's experiences?
Thanks, Dan

From adcronin at mi.rr.com  Wed Jan 26 18:10:22 2011
From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 20:10:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Flywheel decision for mildely improved motor w/89mm pistons,
	electronic ignition, 270 duration cam,
	HS6 on 4A manifold and exhaust, etc
Message-ID: <910413B6-E5AC-48C2-8F9B-30393DB13005@mi.rr.com>

1/26
I have two possible flywheel options to sort out and thought that the list might help in that regard, especially those who are (have) running lighter components.  Have a lightened steel post 60k flywheel at 16#  and will be using a lightened ring gear at 2#,  Luk diaphragm pressure plate 10#,  McLeoud clutch disk at 3#,  and flywheel/PP attaching hardware at just under 1#  for a total weight behind the crank of 32#  with this combination.  The other option is a Fidanze AL flywheel at 11#,  and standard ring gear at 3#  with same ARP attaching hardware, PP and clutch disk for a total weight with this arrangement of 28#.   There isn't much weight difference (though if I used the lightened ring gear on the AL wheel it would make the total 27#)  between the two combinations, but I am told that reduction in rotating mass behind the flywheel can make a disportinant difference in take off.................obviously both conbinations are at least 15 to 20# lighter than the original TR2-3B setup.  Thoughts, recomendations, comments, etc
Thanks,
Dan

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Jan 26 18:23:41 2011
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 19:23:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping
References: <769BF51307454A7F9EA56E13C63C4ECF@BobPC>	<825657802.1893720.1296076321516.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E50543A3@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
	<018d01cbbdaf$bb154190$313fc4b0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <7FDE896BEB21483A913F3EA5954FAE92@0817C93C637E473>

My story in Illinois is similar.  It's scary to think I took off EVERY nut 
and bolt and put it all back together (inculding a remanfuactured, 
re-stamped VIN plate) and no one ever even look at the car. :-)  All the 
Secretary of State was interested in was that the fees check cleared.

Ken Gano


>> North Carolina is quite an interesting experience.  To get a title for
>> an car it must be inspected by a state police vehicle inspector who
>> does know what he is talking about.  If he doesn't accept the car you
>> will not even get a title.
>
> California is much the same, for newer cars.  I almost didn't get a title
> for my second Stag, because of some VIN plate shenanigans that happened
> years before.  But the fellow I bought it from had no trouble registering 
> it
> in OK, apparently no one even looked at the VIN plate.
>
> -- Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> 


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jan 26 19:27:42 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 18:27:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] Flywheel decision for mildely improved motor w/89mm
	pistons, electronic ignition, 270 duration cam,
	HS6 on 4A manifold and exhaust, etc
In-Reply-To: <910413B6-E5AC-48C2-8F9B-30393DB13005@mi.rr.com>
References: <910413B6-E5AC-48C2-8F9B-30393DB13005@mi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <01e801cbbdc9$c6ec9260$54c5b720$@rr.com>

As noted, rotational inertia is much more important than weight.  Only the
inertia changes how the engine runs, etc; the ideal situation would be the
right amount of rotational inertia with no weight at all <G>  To that end, a
lighter flywheel with a heavier ring gear should be better than the other
way around.

FWIW I am currently running a Fidanza AL wheel with standard ring gear
behind a nearly stock TR3 motor on the street, and I really like it.  It
"wakes up" the car like nothing else I've ever done (especially at low
speeds); and I'm really looking forward to getting a "warmed up" motor to
run it behind (with 89mm liners, Larry Young's cam, tubular 4-2-1 exhaust,
etc).  

Oh yeah, possibly relevant, I've currently got a 4.1 axle and smaller tires
than stock (872 tpm vs 835).  The previous car had a 3.7 axle (same tires)
and was a bit harder to launch; but I think that had more to do with the
engine being tired than the final drive ratio.  My plan is to go to 3.45
gears & limited slip (which hopefully will make it harder to spin the
wheels).

You didn't mention whether this car is for the street or the racetrack.  For
the street, IMO it comes down to how strongly your motor will pull below
2000 rpm.  You're going to have to rev at least partially into the power
band for every single takeoff (or risk looking like you are just learning to
drive a clutch) and I feel kind of silly having to rev it up when I'm just
puttering around the parking lot.

-- Randall 


From Bob at texmog.com  Wed Jan 26 21:57:51 2011
From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 22:57:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping
In-Reply-To: <825657802.1893720.1296076321516.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A48A9822E1654CCB86360041B550908D@CARROOM>

I saw a case come through the criminal court here in Texas where a police
officer from the Auto Theft Unit went out and inspected a body shop for
stolen parts. The only thing he found was a car under restoration which had
the VIN ID plate removed for painting. The shop owner ended up getting two
years for tampering with a vehicle ID plate.

Things are getting really weird


Bob 

> 
> > From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> > Maybe too late, but you might want to check with your DMV on 
> > registration of a car with a replacement VIN plate. There's been 
> > horror stories of guys
> > trying to get a car registered with the original VIN plate but new
> > rivets 
> > holding it in place. It seems to vary by state and even inspection
> > center 
> > within a state.
> 
> As if an inspector ever came near my cars.  LOL.  Even when I 
> brought in a Caterham Seven from Wisconsin, they just 
> accepted the New-Hampshire-issued ID number from the 
> Wisconsin title.  Nobody ever saw if there even *was* a car...
> 
> As you say, states differ.
> 


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Jan 27 08:30:16 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 09:30:16 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping
Message-ID: <702241019.647502.1296142216961.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

Going through this process 'as we speak'.  Had the FHP inspector out last Monday (he is booked solid - made reservation November 29).   I had the registration from prior owner (NY - no title in NY); copy of the bill of sale; BMHTI build record; original beat up Commission Plate; re-stamped (courtesy of HF stamps) new plate.   New plate was attached by screws.
 
His comment - was change the screws to permanent attachment (rivets) and all is ok.  Wouldn't give me the proof I needed for getting title/registration - I'll need to reschedule when I have the plate re-attached.   Called yesterday and appts are now into mid-March.   
 
Interesting method of appts.  'we are booking the week of March 14 or later. (if that works) we will contact you the week prior to let you know which day and approximate time the inspector will be there'.    I guess they line all up and he clusters the calls by locale.
 
Argh.  Only if I had had the brass pop rivets.  10 minutes and all would have been done.
I tried searching the archives - does anyone have the contact info for the person who said they supply them?
 
Thanks
Carl

 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jan 27 10:22:31 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 10:22:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping
In-Reply-To: <702241019.647502.1296142216961.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
References: <702241019.647502.1296142216961.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=9k8Wk9bQ-7MJBqtX=1V55bqc6UTcvEhEF721t@mail.gmail.com>

On 1/27/11, cfmtr3a at verizon.net <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:
> ...Argh.  Only if I had had the brass pop rivets.  10 minutes and all would
> have been done.

I thought they were aluminum rivets.  I used pop rivets (so did
Standard Triumph on my TR4) if you're fussy you could fill the hole
with a bit of JBWeld for a more accurate look.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jan 27 10:34:33 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 10:34:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A Commission Number Plates -- LBS or KILOS?
Message-ID: <AANLkTim1Hpc2Xe6UCpkt0m+6uKrgkwKtHapjA_PTt_fj@mail.gmail.com>

I'm interested in what late TR4s and 4As with ORIGINAL commission
number plates show as the unit of weight -- i.e. is the weight (which
may have been left blank) expressed in LBS or KILOS?

I know what Piggot shows, I also think I know what Moss and TRF supply
-- just looking for original examples to see if this was changed at
some point, or based on destination (home market, USA, etc) or just a
mixed bag.  Thanks!

Geo

From darrellw at ipns.com  Thu Jan 27 11:01:16 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 10:01:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A Commission Number Plates -- LBS or KILOS?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim1Hpc2Xe6UCpkt0m+6uKrgkwKtHapjA_PTt_fj@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTim1Hpc2Xe6UCpkt0m+6uKrgkwKtHapjA_PTt_fj@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CF710353-CF4D-4E53-99F7-A5737ADD8F65@ipns.com>


Hi Geo,

My plate is so original that the printing is no longer there (it was that way when I got it in 1980, probably due to brake fluif).  Anyway, the stamping for that spot says "2660".

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jan 27 12:44:36 2011
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 11:44:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Comission Plate - pounds or kilos
Message-ID: <676034.61892.qm@web80405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Geo:
The original comisssion plate on my TR4, build date Nov '64, shows weight in 
kilos and is?blank in this area. The car was delivered in West Germany.

brgds, Jay
'64 Triunph TR4 since '67

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Thu Jan 27 13:17:07 2011
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 15:17:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Commission plate specs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1296154804.11525.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1296154804.11525.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAKvcmypzcFNGmZCYMvM7FggBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

Hello list,
The stamped numbers/letters should they be 1/8" or 1/4" height?
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob 
 


From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Jan 27 13:54:32 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 20:54:32 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Commission plates and VIN re-stamping
Message-ID: <168248.1408.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

For an authentic look, don't forget to ensure you use the correct font. Most of 
the Coventry factories (viz Jaguar, Rootes Group, Standard Triumph and Lea 
Francis) used one called "Godiva."

Jonmac


      

From darrellw at ipns.com  Thu Jan 27 14:06:47 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 13:06:47 -0800
Subject: [TR] Commission plates and VIN re-stamping
In-Reply-To: <168248.1408.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <168248.1408.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <993FBDF4-1797-4C75-A93E-F27BA839CDD8@ipns.com>


On Jan 27, 2011, at 12:54 PM, John Macartney wrote:

> For an authentic look, don't forget to ensure you use the correct font. Most of 
> the Coventry factories (viz Jaguar, Rootes Group, Standard Triumph and Lea 
> Francis) used one called "Godiva."

And, at least going by the plate in my car, down a few pints before stamping, so you can replicate the alignment!

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jan 27 16:39:42 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 15:39:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] VIN stamping
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=9k8Wk9bQ-7MJBqtX=1V55bqc6UTcvEhEF721t@mail.gmail.com>
References: <702241019.647502.1296142216961.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
	<AANLkTi=9k8Wk9bQ-7MJBqtX=1V55bqc6UTcvEhEF721t@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <037201cbbe7b$7957c080$6c074180$@rr.com>

> I thought they were aluminum rivets.  I used pop rivets (so did
> Standard Triumph on my TR4) if you're fussy you could fill the hole
> with a bit of JBWeld for a more accurate look.

Originals on a TR3 were aluminum rivets with a separate shaft in the center
which ISTR was steel.  Not quite a pop-rivet, but close.  I'll bet you could
save the center piece and drive it into a pop-rivet and no one could tell
the difference.

-- Randall 


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Thu Jan 27 17:54:56 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 19:54:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Moss Quick Rack for TR4
Message-ID: <4D4213E0.2030208@blacksburg.net>

Folks,
Moss has their quick rack on sale, something over which I've lusted for 
years, but it's for late-model TR4s (after CT20000).  Has anyone tried 
to install it in an earlier car?

TIA

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go



From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Jan 27 17:56:29 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 19:56:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Comission Plate - pounds or kilos
References: <676034.61892.qm@web80405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <261BE7B160424B5EB29EA80D3721ED82@userb38463fba5>

My 1966 4A is stamped in pounds 21xx I seem to recall, too cold to go and 
look.
JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jay Holekamp" <jholekamp at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2011 2:44 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 Comission Plate - pounds or kilos


Geo:
The original comisssion plate on my TR4, build date Nov '64, shows weight in
kilos and is blank in this area. The car was delivered in West Germany.

brgds, Jay
'64 Triunph TR4 since '67
_______________________________________________


From areich at telus.net  Fri Jan 28 18:05:26 2011
From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 17:05:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] Non Triumph .. what is this part??
Message-ID: <4D4367D6.5030507@telus.net>

I need help identifying a strange part that was found in the air cleaner 
box of my 2005 PT Cruiser GT Turbo. It was found by Chrysler dealer 
mechanic and nobody at the dealership had any idea what it was and where 
it came from!
I had replaced the air cleaner element about two years ago.
Check out the pics:  
http://picasaweb.google.com/Allan.Reich/MysteryAutoPart#
Thanks
Allan Reich
Vancouver Canada
1960 TR3 - TS65713L (+O)


From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Fri Jan 28 18:58:50 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 20:58:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Part Needed
Message-ID: <13E687056E4A41D9B72F68D4A171DB40@TRGUY>

Anyone have a surrey center frame section that the soft top attaches to? 
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Fri Jan 28 19:38:11 2011
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 21:38:11 EST
Subject: [TR] Battery Drain
Message-ID: <98078.975db8b.3a74d793@aol.com>

My '72 GT6 seems to have a slow drain on the battery.  When hooking up  the 
battery there is a small spark.  When using a test lamp that is  grounded, 
it lights up slightly and then goes out.  Have checked with all  of the 
fusible circuits and it doesn't show up.  Could it be a bad diode in  the 
alternator?
Suggestions?
 
TIA
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jan 28 20:04:59 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 19:04:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] Battery Drain
In-Reply-To: <98078.975db8b.3a74d793@aol.com>
References: <98078.975db8b.3a74d793@aol.com>
Message-ID: <05a401cbbf61$514a2e20$f3de8a60$@rr.com>

Have you by any chance added a radio or tape deck?  The light going out
suggests a capacitor (which would also cause the spark).

-- Randall


From dkspence at telus.net  Sat Jan 29 12:33:12 2011
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2011 12:33:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Non Triumph .. what is this part??
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1296327602.7949.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1296327602.7949.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5F94A514-1382-4CEA-AB07-979E1088AE52@telus.net>

No Idea but two years is a long time to run an air cleaner...


On 29-Jan-11, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: Allan Reich <areich at telus.net>
> Date: January 28, 2011 6:05:26 PM MST (CA)
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Non Triumph .. what is this part??
>
>
> I need help identifying a strange part that was found in the air  
> cleaner box of my 2005 PT Cruiser GT Turbo. It was found by Chrysler  
> dealer mechanic and nobody at the dealership had any idea what it  
> was and where it came from!
> I had replaced the air cleaner element about two years ago.
> Check out the pics:  http://picasaweb.google.com/Allan.Reich/MysteryAutoPart#
> Thanks
> Allan Reich
> Vancouver Canada
> 1960 TR3 - TS65713L (+O)


From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 29 13:15:49 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2011 12:15:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Battery Dim
Message-ID: <717406.57562.qm@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!

Here is an EASY check to tell if there is a battery drain?happening, when the 
ignition is off.

1- Take one of the?Battery Cables off.
2- Take a test lamp & put one end on the Battery cable that IS disconnected.
3- Place the other end of the test lamp on the Battery Post that is 
disconnected.
IF the test lamp goes "ON", then you have a Battery Drain. Very simply!

Now, ALL you have to do is find it.
?-Cosmo Kramer 


      

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Sat Jan 29 13:47:28 2011
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2011 15:47:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 39
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1296327602.7949.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1296327602.7949.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5452BE88-93C8-454C-8CC6-9FFC45B38C52@execulink.com>

Jim Henningsen asked:
> Anyone have a surrey center frame section that the soft top attaches to?

++++++++++
Yes, if you have questions. No, if you are looking buy. :-)

Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com


From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Jan 29 14:23:00 2011
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2011 16:23:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Part Needed
Message-ID: <49ec7.7c61ab0c.3a75df34@aol.com>

Those might be available from TRF.  That where I purchased mine.
Darrell
 
 
In a message dated 1/28/2011 9:23:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
trguy at cfl.rr.com writes:

Anyone  have a surrey center frame section that the soft top attaches to?  
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75  TR6
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr250driver at aol.com



From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sat Jan 29 15:16:35 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2011 17:16:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Moss Quick Rack for TR4 - the answer from Moss
Message-ID: <4D4491C3.1020007@blacksburg.net>

I asked about installing Moss' "quick rack" in an early TR4 (different 
rack mounting configuration than later cars).  Here's Moss Tech 
Support's answer:

The term "horizontal mount" refers to the orientation of the U-bolt, not to
the position of the mount itself. The crux is of the interchangeability
issue, is the way these different racks mount, and therefore the specific
design of the rack housing with regards to the mounting. The housing of the
later rack has cast parts which interfere with the early-style mounting
system, and is also missing parts which are necessary for the early-style
mounting system.

So until we can come up with a different design, sorry, you're out of luck.

I've been told by a reliable wrencher that mounting brackets can be 
fabricated, so removing the earlier "ears" and welding the new brackets 
is a possible recourse.

hth

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go



-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From januaryw at gmail.com  Sat Jan 29 19:47:58 2011
From: januaryw at gmail.com (January Williams)
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:47:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A Commission Number Plates -- LBS or KILOS?
Message-ID: <AANLkTikjNx4hy33QGzo0Y5Ab3Pr4iO2WGnacToUy3T4c@mail.gmail.com>

CTC 74217 LO, late 66 build. No paint left on the original comm plate; has
2660, ISTR was shipped to west coast, SF

January Williams, Salem Ore

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sun Jan 30 00:04:38 2011
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 02:04:38 EST
Subject: [TR] Battery Drain
Message-ID: <32c15.4ce51b10.3a766786@aol.com>

Randall,
The radio is not installed and everything else seems to function  properly.
Sam

From spamiam at comcast.net  Sun Jan 30 05:50:41 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 07:50:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery Drain
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1296327602.7949.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1296327602.7949.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <A5F8A9D53B79483492257974B4300601@I7Quad>

Sam,

It takes a fair amount of current to light up a test light.  How fast does 
your battery drain to flat?

As usual, Randall is correct that the test light illuminating for a short 
time then going dark does suggest charging of a capacitor.  And it is a 
pretty big one!  Lets say that it takes 50mA to light your lamp, and it 
lights for about 1/2 second.  That equates to 0.1 coulomb.  in capacitance, 
this is 0.1 coulomb/12v = 8333 microfarads.  A reasonably large capacitor.

So, it may be the "unseen" drain, the one that is not enough to illuminate 
the test lamp, that is killing your battery.  When I had this problem, I 
placed an ammeter between a battery lead and the battery (engine not 
running), then pulled fuses until it dropped to zero.  From there I traced 
it further down the line until I got the individual device.

In one case, with my 1966 TR4A, pulling all the fuses changed nothing.  I 
eventually got the the mechanical regulator as the source of a drain of 10's 
of mA.  I blew all the dust out of the device especially in the back and 
from between the contacts.  That fixed it.  I did not do more that pull all 
the leads, and blow a jet of air throughout!  You don't have such a 
regulator, but I suppose a fault in your alternator's regulator could do it.

You can hook up the ammeter, measure the mA of drain, then remove the ign 
warning light lead (if present), and see if the mA changes.  If it does not 
drop to about 1mA (which may be about normal), then remove the main lead 
from the alternator either at the alternator, or at the other end of that 
big lead.

-Tony

-----Original Message----- 
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 21:38:11 EST
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com
Subject: [TR] Battery Drain
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6-pack at autox.com
Cc: tr6 at atlasok.com
Message-ID: <98078.975db8b.3a74d793 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

My '72 GT6 seems to have a slow drain on the battery.  When hooking up  the
battery there is a small spark.  When using a test lamp that is  grounded,
it lights up slightly and then goes out.  Have checked with all  of the
fusible circuits and it doesn't show up.  Could it be a bad diode in  the
alternator?
Suggestions?

TIA
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Jan 30 09:00:22 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 09:00:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A Commission Number Plates -- LBS or KILOS?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikjNx4hy33QGzo0Y5Ab3Pr4iO2WGnacToUy3T4c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikjNx4hy33QGzo0Y5Ab3Pr4iO2WGnacToUy3T4c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinVj+PoB2s_X9VXbE=aASPLaDeQ8oBAKAaok+1h@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the many replies.  For the benefit of those who are not
also on the British Car Forum, here is what I learned and also the
backstory to my curiousity:

It appears from my informal poll that cars to the States had plates
with LBS and those bound for the continent and home market used KILOS.
Also appears that LBS were stamped with the weight (2660) and KILOS
left blank.

But... it was a small sample and many plates have lost their paint or
have undocumented origins so there may well be exceptions. Indeed my
TR4 is one such exception as its original plate said KILOS though it
was despatched to Standard Triumph in L.A. The rest of the story...

My commission # is CT36536L but there is something strange about that
number... it is 6500 higher than the engine and body numbers, yet all
are correct as per the Heritage Certificate.

When I removed the original and (nearly bare of paint) commission
plate I found a second set of holes where apparently a prior plate had
been drilled out and new holes drilled for a replacement plate. That
part of the mystery may never be answered though there are some other
clues that the car may have been built 6 months earlier and then
'warmed-over' at the factory prior to finally being despatched to the
US.

It appears that when the vehicle was re-commissioned (sounds better
than warmed-over) they used a KILOS plate -- perhaps reaching for
whatever was at hand or taking one meant for a home market car that
was never built.

Andy's Herald site shows an example of a Herald commission plate with
KILOS (which appears otherwise identical to a TR4 plate) so perhaps
all Heralds showed KILOS and I need to find a source for a replacement
Herald plate?

So my question: Does anyone know of a source for a replacement 'KILOS'
plate in the U.S.?  I found a source in the UK (Rarebits' Herald
plate) but wanted to see if there was a domestic source.

Thanks for all the info and any suggestions on where to find a
replacement for mine.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jan 30 17:24:04 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 16:24:04 -0800
Subject: [TR] Battery Drain
In-Reply-To: <A5F8A9D53B79483492257974B4300601@I7Quad>
References: <mailman.5.1296327602.7949.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<A5F8A9D53B79483492257974B4300601@I7Quad>
Message-ID: <00c901cbc0dd$2b446880$0301a8c0@randall>

Looks like Tony has covered most of the things I was going to say <G>

My (cheap HF) test light just barely glows a little bit at 80ma, probably
not enough to see in sunlight.  Even at 100ma, it's still just a dim orange
glow.  And of course with the lamp in the circuit, the leakage will be much
less than at full voltage.  200ma is enough to drain the average battery
below where it will start the car in a week.

I have also seen dust & dirt cause problems, even problems that only
occurred at certain times.  My motorhome would leak about 200ma but only
when it was rainy or there was dew on the grass; problem turned out to be
mud caked around a battery cable joint.  Most extreme case was my Audi, that
would kill the battery overnight, but only once every few months.  I finally
found the culprit more by chance than anything else; happened to walk by the
car one night after dinner with some friends and saw the rear window
defogger light on!  Apparently there was just enough salt spray on the relay
that if dew settled on it, the combination would pass enough current to pull
in the relay.  By morning it would be dry, so nothing would seem to be on!

Measuring currents this small on a car can be kind of tricky, especially if
anything has a capacitor.  The current to charge the capacitor can easily be
enough to pop the fuse in a DMM set to the milliamp range.  So it's best to
start with the leads shorted, and then open them when everything else is set
to make your measurement. 

Another possibility is a bad battery.  Apparently the battery I put in the
TR3 in 2009 was defective from the factory, even though it didn't die
completely until TRfest 2010.  The tester at O'Reillys showed 70% charged,
even though it wouldn't even try to crank the motor.

-- Randall  


From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Mon Jan 31 08:47:26 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 07:47:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] '71 TR6 wiring dig.
Message-ID: <267622.10576.qm@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!

I'm looking for a wiring diagram for a '71 TR6. A?car club member (who's not in 
a TRIUMPH Club) asked me if I had one. I said no, but I'll see what I can do for 
you. 


Therefore; if any one could E-mail me this as an attachment, then I & the club 
member would appreciate it.
?TIA,-Cosmo Kramer 


      

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Jan 31 09:04:33 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 11:04:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] '71 TR6 wiring dig.
In-Reply-To: <267622.10576.qm@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <267622.10576.qm@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CD8F77AEE74397-1B78-22F5D@webmail-d042.sysops.aol.com>

Try these:

<http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf>

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

-----Original Message-----
From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>

I'm looking for a wiring diagram for a '71 TR6. A?car club member 
(who's not in
a TRIUMPH Club) asked me if I had one.

From tgeiger at geigergarage.com  Mon Jan 31 09:09:08 2011
From: tgeiger at geigergarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 10:09:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] '71 TR6 wiring dig.
In-Reply-To: <267622.10576.qm@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <267622.10576.qm@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000901cbc161$33d97970$9b8c6c50$@geigergarage.com>

http://www.advanceautowire.com/
Click on "Stock Schematics" link

Terry Geiger
www.GeigerGarage.com

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 9:47 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] '71 TR6 wiring dig.

Hi List!

I'm looking for a wiring diagram for a '71 TR6. A?car club member (who's not
in a TRIUMPH Club) asked me if I had one. I said no, but I'll see what I can
do for you. 


Therefore; if any one could E-mail me this as an attachment, then I & the
club member would appreciate it.
?TIA,-Cosmo Kramer 



From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Mon Jan 31 09:08:16 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:08:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Wiring digram
Message-ID: <9252.95093.qm@web39421.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
I have already received an answer, so NO NEED to bother sending me that info. 
Thanks to the list & Darell Walker.?? 

?-Cosmo Kramer 


      

From tkeefover at gmail.com  Mon Jan 31 09:09:23 2011
From: tkeefover at gmail.com (Terry Keefover)
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 11:09:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] '71 TR6 wiring dig.
In-Reply-To: <267622.10576.qm@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <267622.10576.qm@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimr4y6nugKVefZQ26035ze3yb9AtvEXL69q_FOx@mail.gmail.com>

http://advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

On Mon, Jan 31, 2011 at 10:47 AM, Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi List!
>
> I'm looking for a wiring diagram for a '71 TR6. A car club member (who's
> not in
> a TRIUMPH Club) asked me if I had one. I said no, but I'll see what I can
> do for
> you.
>
>
> Therefore; if any one could E-mail me this as an attachment, then I & the
> club
> member would appreciate it.
>  TIA,-Cosmo Kramer
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tkeefover at gmail.com
>
>

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Mon Jan 31 09:39:12 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:39:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Message for: Carl & Guy
Message-ID: <800185.19377.qm@web39422.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Carl & Guy!
Would you PLEASE check your 'spam' folder, because I sent an E-mail to both of 
you & it may have gone into your 'spam folder'. It happens at times because of 
my address. 

TIA?-Cosmo Kramer