From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Feb  1 10:56:17 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2011 17:56:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] hardtops
Message-ID: <338052171.95059.1296582977484.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

does anyone still make a fiberglass hardtop to fit the tr4-6??  i'd like to buy a new one.
ray

"Life's tough....It's even tougher if you're stupid."
-John Wayne

From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Tue Feb  1 13:10:24 2011
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2011 15:10:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] hardtops
In-Reply-To: <338052171.95059.1296582977484.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <338052171.95059.1296582977484.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimipEum+R2K8ke4meM2CFBw90Fza4e-w8TbV7yt@mail.gmail.com>

Smoothline is still in business. They make the hardtops that carried the
Parrish/Perfect Plastics name. Well made and fit reasonably well. I've had
one for as long as I've owned my '6.

--Phil Barnes
--'71 TR6 since 1977

On Tue, Feb 1, 2011 at 12:56 PM, <spook01 at comcast.net> wrote:

> does anyone still make a fiberglass hardtop to fit the tr4-6??  i'd like to
> buy a new one.
> ray
>
>

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Feb  1 14:55:00 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2011 15:55:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Hardtop_for_tr4?=
Message-ID: <20110201215437.B3343187643@autox.team.net>

Thanks to all for responding to my request for info on a hardtop for my tr4.
For a bit, I considered the idea of a used one, such as was offered by several of you.
But, the special deal offered by the manufacturer which included freight, made the new top irresistible.
So, I ordered it and won't need another. 
Thanks again to you all.
Best,
Ray 


Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

From tr6parts at charter.net  Tue Feb  1 15:34:39 2011
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2011 17:34:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] hardtops
References: <338052171.95059.1296582977484.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BF312430F77D4E8EB5C6B56880C599F3@Alan>

I saw that Moss UK or was it Rimmer; was reproducing
the original TR6 hardtop in fiberglass.

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <spook01 at comcast.net>
To: "triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2011 12:56 PM
Subject: [TR] hardtops


> does anyone still make a fiberglass hardtop to fit the tr4-6??  i'd like 
> to buy a new one.
> ray
>
> "Life's tough....It's even tougher if you're stupid."
> -John Wayne
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net
>
> 



From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Feb  1 16:51:39 2011
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2011 23:51:39 +0000
Subject: [TR] hardtops
In-Reply-To: <BF312430F77D4E8EB5C6B56880C599F3@Alan>
References: <338052171.95059.1296582977484.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<BF312430F77D4E8EB5C6B56880C599F3@Alan>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529D2287C@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I believe Rimmer bought the hardtop business formerly owned by Lenham. They made a fiberglass hardtop that looks very similar to the factory hardtop. I bought one for my Saffron TR6 around 1978 and still have it, now painted red to match my current TR6.

This is the rimmer web page for the Lenham hardtop

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID007034

Derek Graham, the TR6 registrar for the TR Register wrote a nice series on TR6 after-market hardtops that appeared in a recent 6-Pack issue.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Salvatore
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2011 5:35 PM
To: spook01 at comcast.net; triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] hardtops

I saw that Moss UK or was it Rimmer; was reproducing the original TR6 hardtop in fiberglass.

Al


From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Feb  1 19:39:13 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2011 18:39:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] cleanup carbs fuel pump
Message-ID: <447707.51918.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

What do people do with carbs/fuel pumps ect. that they plan on using on a new 
restoration?  I restored a fuel pump (tr-3) and cleaned it up as well as i could 
using lacquer thinner, small steel brush, emery paper and steel wool.  Really 
tough getting into all the nooks and crannys.  The result I get is a dull sorta 
darkish steel look.  It's a nice patina look but not shiny aluminum that I think 
people expect on a new restoration.  I also plan on doing my own carbs.  


I still have mixed feelings about a nice patina versus shiny new look.  I'm 
comfortable with a patina but wonder how it will look in a newly painted engine 
bay with a fresh painted engine.  I have a sandblaster but am afraid it'd cut in 
too much making a very rough surface.  Does silver or aluminum paint work on 
these........or clear coat if a person could get them cleaned up down to shiny 
metal?  


Just wondering what others have had experiences with.

thanks

gary n.



      

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb  1 20:13:24 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2011 19:13:24 -0800
Subject: [TR] cleanup carbs fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <447707.51918.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <447707.51918.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <02d701cbc287$27c6bae0$0301a8c0@randall>

Glass beads in a blaster leaves them looking like new.  Not polished &
shiny, but a good reproduction of an "as cast" surface, IMO.

Not that I'm taking up restoration; the glass beads do a good job of
cleaning as well.

-- Randall  


From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Feb  1 20:31:18 2011
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2011 03:31:18 +0000
Subject: [TR] cleanup carbs fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <447707.51918.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <447707.51918.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529D23106@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Gary, I have had good luck using glass bead on aluminum engine parts and then clear coating them with high temp clear coat but I also noticed another option using baking soda that I plan to try out soon and is a cheap and easy approach for small parts 

http://www.garagenight.tv/diy-soda-blasting-build-your-own-rig-cheap/

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2011 9:39 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] cleanup carbs fuel pump

What do people do with carbs/fuel pumps ect. that they plan on using on a new restoration?  I restored a fuel pump (tr-3) and cleaned it up as well as i could using lacquer thinner, small steel brush, emery paper and steel wool.  Really tough getting into all the nooks and crannys.  The result I get is a dull sorta darkish steel look.  It's a nice patina look but not shiny aluminum that I think people expect on a new restoration.  I also plan on doing my own carbs.  


I still have mixed feelings about a nice patina versus shiny new look.  I'm comfortable with a patina but wonder how it will look in a newly painted engine bay with a fresh painted engine.  I have a sandblaster but am afraid it'd cut in too much making a very rough surface.  Does silver or aluminum paint work on these........or clear coat if a person could get them cleaned up down to shiny metal?  


Just wondering what others have had experiences with.

thanks

gary n.



      
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan.foster at hp.com


From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Tue Feb  1 21:56:31 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2011 20:56:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Looking for Joe Curry
Message-ID: <858788.97256.qm@web39421.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
?Joe Curry, would you please E-mail me. I tried this E-mail address 
?????????????????????????????????????????? spitlist at cox.net
& it bounced back.?
TIA,?-Cosmo Kramer 


      

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Tue Feb  1 22:02:18 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2011 21:02:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] hardtops
Message-ID: <594259.40109.qm@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2011 17:56:17 +0000 (UTC)
From: spook01 at comcast.net
Subject: [TR] hardtops

??? does anyone still make a fiberglass hardtop to fit the tr4-6??? i'd like to 
buy a new one.
ray

"Life's tough....It's even tougher if you're stupid."
-John Wayne
-------------------------------
Hi John & list!

I hope that you don't think that a TR4 top will fit all TR TRIUMPH's up to the 
start of the TR7. Plaese state what the car is that you want the top for, & I'm 
sure you'll be happer with?what you get.? 

Good Luck,?-Cosmo Kramer 


      

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Feb  2 07:02:50 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2011 08:02:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?hardtops?=
Message-ID: <20110202140228.61648187669@autox.team.net>

Cosmo,
My two buddies and I went for a group purchase for our tr4 tr5(250) and tr6.
Best,
John Wayne 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Cosmo Kramer" <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, Feb 1, 2011 23:02
Subject: hardtops
To: <spook01 at comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>


Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2011 17:56:17 +0000 (UTC)
From: spook01 at comcast.net
Subject: [TR] hardtops

??? does anyone still make a fiberglass hardtop to fit the tr4-6??? i'd like to 
buy a new one.
ray

"Life's tough....It's even tougher if you're stupid."
-John Wayne
-------------------------------
Hi John & list!

I hope that you don't think that a TR4 top will fit all TR TRIUMPH's up to the 
start of the TR7. Plaese state what the car is that you want the top for, & I'm 
sure you'll be happer with?what you get.? 

Good Luck,?-Cosmo Kramer 




From kinneyjr at msn.com  Wed Feb  2 14:33:02 2011
From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney)
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2011 16:33:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 hardtop center section
Message-ID: <BAY157-w29CB57C7DD84EA40ED99D4C3E40@phx.gbl>


Granted, I have not read this entire thread, but oh my, if folks are offering honest-to-goodness original TR4 factory hardtops, anybody have an extra aluminum/steel center section they would be willing to part with?  Or should I just take my spot by the Easter Bunny on the Diet Dr. Pepper commercial as the guy hoping to find just that piece?
 
Thanks,
Jeremy Kinney
'66 TR4A
 
***************************************************************************
 
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2011 15:55:00 -0600
From: " spook01 at comcast.net " <spook01 at comcast.net>
Subject: [TR] Hardtop for tr4
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <20110201215437.B3343187643 at autox.team.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
Thanks to all for responding to my request for info on a hardtop for my tr4.
For a bit, I considered the idea of a used one, such as was offered by several of you.
But, the special deal offered by the manufacturer which included freight, made the new top irresistible.
So, I ordered it and won't need another. 
Thanks again to you all.
Best,
Ray 
 		 	   		  

From pboldtrix at juno.com  Wed Feb  2 15:03:15 2011
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2011 22:03:15 GMT
Subject: [TR] Stay rod colour
Message-ID: <20110202.170315.13935.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>

Hello Listers,        Doing some engine bay refreshening.  Can anyone tell me what colour the Stay rods for the front valence are supposed to be (part #s 714768 &69, 72 TR6) -- Gloss, Satin or Flat black?   Mine are so grungy I can no longer tell.  These are the rods that fasten back to the wheel arch.   Thanks in advance,    Phil Bacon      

____________________________________________________________
Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat!
http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Feb  2 17:27:06 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2011 19:27:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Stay rod colour
In-Reply-To: <20110202.170315.13935.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20110202.170315.13935.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <201102021927.07057.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday, February 02, 2011 05:03:15 pm Phil Bacon wrote:
> Hello Listers,        Doing some engine bay refreshening.  Can anyone tell
> me what colour the Stay rods for the front valence are supposed to be
> (part #s 714768 &69, 72 TR6) -- Gloss, Satin or Flat black?   Mine are so
> grungy I can no longer tell.  These are the rods that fasten back to the
> wheel arch.   Thanks in advance,    Phil Bacon
> 
> ____________________________________________________________
Phil,

The stay rods on my 72 were more flat than Satin but I painted them with the 
same paint I used for the windshield, back of grill and the rear apron.

It is DuPont Satin Black A-5099S
1K Bumper & Trim Black.

It is available in a rattle can. I just did a web search and ordered from some 
on-line paint shop.

This paint was recommended by the 6-pack forum.

Nice finish.

Bob

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Feb  2 17:33:20 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2011 19:33:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Pedal Box assembly
Message-ID: <156E49E0DA9741B0B6DDD81D2CBAE39E@userb38463fba5>

I'm re-assembling a TR6 Brake and Clutch Pedal Box and I didn't write down how the return springs attach and where they attach. On the Brake side there is a flange bent up from the box with a hole in it between the pedal arm and where ever the other end of the spring attaches. Does the return spring go through this hole? It seems that's the only way it can assemble, I thought I'd ask. Also I have 1 long spring and 2 shorter springs. Again for the Brake Pedal it looks like the longer spring has one end obviously going to the pedal arm but does the other end hook around the edge of the pedal box. It's the only spring with one long end that can go thru the hole in the flange without interference. How do the other 2 springs then attach to the Clutch Pedal?

Can someone stand on their head and take a photo under the dash of how the springs attach? That may be the easiest at this point. 

Thanks,

JVV

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Feb  2 17:56:41 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2011 19:56:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Pedal Box assembly
References: <156E49E0DA9741B0B6DDD81D2CBAE39E@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <5C9CD315A15E463B9C7996D32587A77E@userb38463fba5>

Dah, The flange I'm referring to is for mounting the brake light switch, so 
my questions is how and where do the springs attach at either end. I'm 
converting my TR4A to a dual system using the TR6 set up. Pictures would be 
helpful.
Thanks,
JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2011 7:33 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Pedal Box assembly


> I'm re-assembling a TR6 Brake and Clutch Pedal Box and I didn't write down 
> how the return springs attach and where they attach. On the Brake side 
> there is a flange bent up from the box with a hole in it between the pedal 
> arm and where ever the other end of the spring attaches. Does the return 
> spring go through this hole? It seems that's the only way it can assemble, 
> I thought I'd ask. Also I have 1 long spring and 2 shorter springs. Again 
> for the Brake Pedal it looks like the longer spring has one end obviously 
> going to the pedal arm but does the other end hook around the edge of the 
> pedal box. It's the only spring with one long end that can go thru the 
> hole in the flange without interference. How do the other 2 springs then 
> attach to the Clutch Pedal?
>
> Can someone stand on their head and take a photo under the dash of how the 
> springs attach? That may be the easiest at this point.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JVV
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com
> 


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Feb  3 05:52:09 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2011 07:52:09 EST
Subject: [TR] TR6 Pedal Box assembly
Message-ID: <306e8.7051434f.3a7bfef9@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/2/2011 7:04:26 PM Central Standard Time, 
jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes: 
> Dah, The flange I'm referring to is for mounting the brake light switch, 
> so 
> my questions is how and where do the springs attach at either end. I'm 
> converting my TR4A to a dual system using the TR6 set up. Pictures would 
> be 
> helpful.
> 

Boy, it's been years since I messed with mine but doesn't the booster 
provide all the pedal return for the brakes?  (i.e. no spring needed)

Dave

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Feb  3 09:37:54 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2011 11:37:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Pedal Box assembly
In-Reply-To: <5C9CD315A15E463B9C7996D32587A77E@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <20110203163754.U6ZVZ.66332.root@cdptpa-web24-z02>

Well, I just googled TR6 Brake Pedal Box and found Buckeye Triumphs excellent article on the whole subject. He confirms that there is no spring associated with the brake pedal, only the clutch pedal. I should have googled this before I asked but who knew.
JVV

---- Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote: 
> Dah, The flange I'm referring to is for mounting the brake light switch, so 
> my questions is how and where do the springs attach at either end. I'm 
> converting my TR4A to a dual system using the TR6 set up. Pictures would be 
> helpful.
> Thanks,
> JVV
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2011 7:33 PM
> Subject: [TR] TR6 Pedal Box assembly
> 
> 
> > I'm re-assembling a TR6 Brake and Clutch Pedal Box and I didn't write down 
> > how the return springs attach and where they attach. On the Brake side 
> > there is a flange bent up from the box with a hole in it between the pedal 
> > arm and where ever the other end of the spring attaches. Does the return 
> > spring go through this hole? It seems that's the only way it can assemble, 
> > I thought I'd ask. Also I have 1 long spring and 2 shorter springs. Again 
> > for the Brake Pedal it looks like the longer spring has one end obviously 
> > going to the pedal arm but does the other end hook around the edge of the 
> > pedal box. It's the only spring with one long end that can go thru the 
> > hole in the flange without interference. How do the other 2 springs then 
> > attach to the Clutch Pedal?
> >
> > Can someone stand on their head and take a photo under the dash of how the 
> > springs attach? That may be the easiest at this point.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > JVV
> > _______________________________________________
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Manage your account: 
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com
> > 
>

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Feb  4 16:15:35 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2011 23:15:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Spring:  Non-Triumph
In-Reply-To: <1214299784.104310.1296861196615.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <510217821.104425.1296861335906.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Apologies for bombing the list.  Am turning to the most knowledgeable guys I know for this.

Have been renovating a study upstairs, building a dream desk, all that.  Have an oak swivel office chair I stumbled on 35 years ago that I used through college and  life, but the spring broke and now it's useless.

I need a hooked extension spring as follows:

6" total length
.25" wire diameter
5.5" coil length
.5" gap between hook and body

This happened long ago, and I was able to source an old automobile hood spring. Now it broke.

Tried McMaster Carr, but can't locate something similar.

Any thoughts?

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Feb  4 16:29:56 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2011 23:29:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Spring:  Non-Triumph
In-Reply-To: <510217821.104425.1296861335906.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <658370554.105109.1296862196588.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Oh, and coil body 1 and 3-8ths outside to outside.

Thanks, everyone, for even looking at this!

****************************
Apologies for bombing the list.  Am turning to the most knowledgeable guys I know for this.

Have been renovating a study upstairs, building a dream desk, all that.  Have an oak swivel office chair I stumbled on 35 years ago that I used through college and  life, but the spring broke and now it's useless.

I need a hooked extension spring as follows:

6" total length
.25" wire diameter
5.5" coil length
.5" gap between hook and body

This happened long ago, and I was able to source an old automobile hood spring. Now it broke.

Tried McMaster Carr, but can't locate something similar.

Any thoughts?

From dlylis at gmail.com  Fri Feb  4 19:36:10 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2011 02:36:10 +0000
Subject: [TR] Spring:  Non-Triumph
Message-ID: <1531084273-1296873371-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1673621731-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Man up and bolt it together. You don't need no stinkin' spring. 
------Original Message------
From: terryrs at comcast.net
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Spring:  Non-Triumph
Sent: Feb 4, 2011 6:29 PM

Oh, and coil body 1 and 3-8ths outside to outside.

Thanks, everyone, for even looking at this!

****************************
Apologies for bombing the list.  Am turning to the most knowledgeable guys I know for this.

Have been renovating a study upstairs, building a dream desk, all that.  Have an oak swivel office chair I stumbled on 35 years ago that I used through college and  life, but the spring broke and now it's useless.

I need a hooked extension spring as follows:

6" total length
.25" wire diameter
5.5" coil length
.5" gap between hook and body

This happened long ago, and I was able to source an old automobile hood spring. Now it broke.

Tried McMaster Carr, but can't locate something similar.

Any thoughts?
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Feb  4 21:11:57 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2011 21:11:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spring:  Non-Triumph
In-Reply-To: <1531084273-1296873371-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1673621731-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1531084273-1296873371-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1673621731-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <4D4CCE0D.1010002@bradakis.com>

This sort of question would be right at home on the
shop-talk at autox.team.net list.  Many of you already
subscribe, but some of you may not know of it and
would enjoy it.  You can check out recent discussions
in the archives at http://www.team.net/archive and you
can subscribe at http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo

And on a somewhat related note if you want to discuss
the upcoming Super Bowl with your Team.Net buddies
you can make use of http://www.team/net/forums and
the recently added Sports forum.

Go Steelers!

mjb.


From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Feb  4 21:21:41 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2011 22:21:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] bulb holder/socket needed
In-Reply-To: <1531084273-1296873371-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1673621731-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1531084273-1296873371-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1673621731-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <F1D2CA3A7E6C49C68F062DDA8B723B3E@ranteer.local>

?hi.  I?m putting in some custom bulbs/lights/wiring.

britishwiring.com has a ?build it yourself? socket.  I ordered 4, and got 2 of them to work, plus they are a plastic holder, which means you have to wire both the positive and ground.

is there a source for metal sockets that aren?t a DIY?

thanks!

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Feb  4 21:26:58 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2011 22:26:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] bulb/socket needed
In-Reply-To: <DF24BE7ABA784A5EA364AB1A15674903@0817C93C637E473>
References: <DF24BE7ABA784A5EA364AB1A15674903@0817C93C637E473>
Message-ID: <5BEFE0AF01E947D493DA23B9CA7EEA54@ranteer.local>

?additional clarification ? its for dashboard lighting, like for the tach, speedo, etc

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb  4 22:13:34 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2011 21:13:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] Spring:  Non-Triumph
In-Reply-To: <658370554.105109.1296862196588.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <510217821.104425.1296861335906.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<658370554.105109.1296862196588.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <074101cbc4f3$70662330$0301a8c0@randall>

> This happened long ago, and I was able to source an old 
> automobile hood spring. Now it broke.

How about another old automobile hood spring ?  Eg,
http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-hood-spring-1955.html

Another thought might be cutting a section from an old garage door spring.
Use a torch to spot-heat the spring, to bend up the ends.

-- Randall  


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb  4 22:18:45 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2011 21:18:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] Spring:  Non-Triumph
In-Reply-To: <658370554.105109.1296862196588.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <510217821.104425.1296861335906.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<658370554.105109.1296862196588.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <074201cbc4f4$29a11d00$0301a8c0@randall>

P/N 	KE1750-0207-6000M looks fairly close:
http://www.katyspring.com
although I don't know if they would be willing to sell you just one at a
price you want to pay.  Couldn't hurt to ask, though.

-- Randall  


From diggle at clear.net.nz  Sat Feb  5 14:52:37 2011
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim Vassiliadis)
Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2011 10:52:37 +1300
Subject: [TR] TR4 radiator Progrees report
Message-ID: <9B68EEC8311943EB9F28DDF1A442AAF3@athlon>

Thankyou for the comments on electric fans and radiators a few months ago.
I have had my 1962 TR4 radiator cored.

I had the crank hole put back mainly because  a non standard radiator would
have annoyed me.
It was not cheap to have the radiator recored with the hole, not an easy
job.
Its probably lost about 15% of its cooling, 4 tubes out of about 25, so I
decided to install a thermostatically controlled electric fan.
I can only fit a 10" fan due to the crank hole, so have purchased one that
pushes through 1000CFM.
Th supplier told me to install it on the engine side of the radiator.
I have removed the 12" 6 fin plastic fan I was running but would have to
also remove the fan hub extension to allow enough clearance for the electric
fan.

My motor was reconditioned about 30years and 20,000 miles ago. There is no
mention of engine balancing on the receipts.
I have done a bit of research on the internet but can't decide whether
removing the fan hub extension will upset the motor or whether the plastic
fan had already done that.

Jim Vassiliadis



From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Feb  5 15:59:15 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2011 14:59:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 radiator Progrees report
In-Reply-To: <9B68EEC8311943EB9F28DDF1A442AAF3@athlon>
References: <9B68EEC8311943EB9F28DDF1A442AAF3@athlon>
Message-ID: <007b01cbc588$501c7ee0$0301a8c0@randall>

> It was not cheap to have the radiator recored with the hole, 
> not an easy job.

That's odd.  My radiator guy said it was no problem and would only add $25
or so to the cost of the recore.

> purchased one that
> pushes through 1000CFM.

Is that free air, or with the restriction of the radiator?  Not unusual for
the flow to drop by 20% or more when there is a radiator involved (and what
good is a fan without a radiator?).

> I have done a bit of research on the internet but can't decide whether
> removing the fan hub extension will upset the motor or 
> whether the plastic
> fan had already done that.

The fan extension should play no part in balancing the motor.  The original
weights were to balance the fan & extension, not the motor itself.  There is
a school of thought that says the original metal fan & it's rubber bushings
provided some measure of harmonic dampening; but deleting them on a
street-driven motor does not seem to be a problem.  I've been running that
way for almost 30 years, and never broken a crankshaft.  If you are going to
be turning over 5000 rpm for any length of time (eg racing), then it might
be wise to add a dampener.

But it is important that the pulley hub be firmly clamped in place.  I wound
up having to make a special clamping piece that would reach around the end
of the crankshaft nose and bear only on the pulley hub.  Even better would
be a larger piece that fills all the way out to the bolts for the pulley
halves, which I believe is available from several vendors.

-- Randall  


From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat Feb  5 17:38:42 2011
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2011 19:38:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ignition coil question..
Message-ID: <DF1966FCD7C04F24BD52B0E7FDB0E2C8@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
Like practically everyone on this list, my garage is way too cold to venture into for at least a couple of months so.. Here I sit writing this email.
Today I discovered a bunch of old Classic Auto Restorer magazines from back in the late '90's. Besides the date on the cover, there are no references to email or website addresses which is kind of wierd. 
Anyway, I was re-reading an article explaining breaker point ignition fundamentals and troubleshooting. The writer made some interesting points ( sorry for the pun) regarding reasons a coil may die.The writer states that there are two main causes of coil failure, moisture entering the coil and heat. The moisture will usually enter the coil at the seal between the case and the top. Usually caused by corrosion at the joint. Heat is another matter, This is usually the result of a voltage higher than 8 VDC in a 12 volt system. The writer stated that a resistor in series with the ignition switch in the "ON" position will allow the full battery voltage (usually slightly more than 12V) during start only. Once the engine startes and the ignition switch Triumphs have the coil mounted to the side of the block! Short of the exhaust manifold, I can't think of any place hotter to mount the coil.
Well, it was an interesting article.. Wait, the Top Gear episode where the boys travel from Florida to New Orleans and practially get killed after painting slogans offensive to southerners on their cars!!!
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Feb  5 21:19:39 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2011 20:19:39 -0800
Subject: [TR] Ignition coil question..
In-Reply-To: <DF1966FCD7C04F24BD52B0E7FDB0E2C8@DaveLaptop>
References: <DF1966FCD7C04F24BD52B0E7FDB0E2C8@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <00df01cbc5b5$12af6c70$0301a8c0@randall>

> of a voltage higher than 8 VDC in a 12 volt system. The 
> writer stated that a resistor in series with the ignition 
> switch in the "ON" position will allow the full battery 
> voltage (usually slightly more than 12V) during start only. 

Just for clarity, some coils require the dropping resistor (aka ballast) and
some don't.  External resistors didn't become common until the early 70's,
so your TR4A would not have had one originally.  If you want to add one, you
need to change the coil for a type designed to use it.

On the side of the engine block might not be the best place to mount a coil,
but there is something to be said for keeping the high tension wire to the
distributor as short as possible and not forcing it to constantly flex as
the engine moves on it's mounts.  Anyway there must be some reason that
practically every car maker (with the notable exception of VW) mounted the
coil next to the distributor, right up until they did away with
distributors.  For years, GM even mounted it inside the distributor cap!

-- Randall  


From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Feb  6 08:39:40 2011
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2011 10:39:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ignition coil question..
In-Reply-To: <00df01cbc5b5$12af6c70$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <DF1966FCD7C04F24BD52B0E7FDB0E2C8@DaveLaptop>
	<00df01cbc5b5$12af6c70$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <4D4EC0BC.2070001@charter.net>

On 2/5/2011 11:19 PM, Randall wrote:
> Anyway there must be some reason that
> practically every car maker (with the notable exception of VW) mounted the
> coil next to the distributor, right up until they did away with
> distributors.
Well, not that it means anything, but all of my VWs had the coil right 
next to the distributor, and I own several Triumph automobiles that have 
the coil mounted on the firewall.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From staffel at comcast.net  Sun Feb  6 13:21:07 2011
From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2011 20:21:07 +0000
Subject: [TR] Elec fan, no orig hub
Message-ID: <534706887-1297023665-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-393031881-@bda806.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Hi Jim!  Pulled hub, metal fan years ago. Used 'harmonic balancer bolt-info from this list. TR crank  same threads as 351 Ford. See link-shows elec fan. 
As Randall says- no issues for street engine , not racing rpms above 4800+ 
Sherman 


http://home.comcast.net/~staffel/alternatorconversion.html
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Feb  6 13:34:11 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2011 15:34:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ignition coil question..
In-Reply-To: <4D4EC0BC.2070001@charter.net>
References: <DF1966FCD7C04F24BD52B0E7FDB0E2C8@DaveLaptop>
	<00df01cbc5b5$12af6c70$0301a8c0@randall>
	<4D4EC0BC.2070001@charter.net>
Message-ID: <201102061534.12158.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

When I restored my 3 way back in 79 - 80, I mounted the coil on the side of 
the wheel well just behind where the horn attaches.

Yes, the HT wire to the distributor is longer but I have never had an ignition 
failure of any kind. 

Coil is a Lucas Super. 

I did the same thing with my 4 when I restored it a few years ago. Same coil.


I use the Lucas bumble bee wire. Solid copper so I dont think I will see any 
failure. The HT wire has some give so the flex does not seem to cause any 
problem.

Currently, the coil on my 6 is mounted on the engine but I will be changing 
that and mount it on the wheel well since the distributor is so much more to 
the rear of the engine.

I could never understand why they would mount the coil on the block right next 
to the water jacket.


Mounted on the wheel well lets the coil get some air flow from the fan. Not 
sure how much cooler it operates but they have to be cooler than on the 
engine.

Bob

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Feb  6 16:08:32 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2011 16:08:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition coil question..
In-Reply-To: <201102061534.12158.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <DF1966FCD7C04F24BD52B0E7FDB0E2C8@DaveLaptop>
	<00df01cbc5b5$12af6c70$0301a8c0@randall>
	<4D4EC0BC.2070001@charter.net>
	<201102061534.12158.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <E7CC73AE-EE5D-479E-96B0-345573C741DE@comcast.net>

On Feb 6, 2011, at 1:34 PM, Bob wrote:

> Mounted on the wheel well lets the coil get some air flow from the  
> fan. Not
> sure how much cooler it operates but they have to be cooler than on  
> the
> engine.

Towards that same goal, I tried to convince myself that putting fiber  
washers on either side of the bracket somehow let less heat transfer  
to the coil.  Don't know if it really does or not.  But it was quick,  
and cheap and more importantly gave me some delusions of having  
accomplished something useful.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net


From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sun Feb  6 21:38:39 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2011 20:38:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Ing. Coil Question
Message-ID: <902971.65569.qm@web39423.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi list!
?
If one is worried about the heat from the engine deleting the effeninacy of the 
coil, then why not install a heat shied between the coil & engine?

If I were to do this, I would install a heat shield material against the coil 
then install? fiber washers (spacer between the engine heat shield to the coil. 
Therefore you are creating an air space between the engine -> heat shield & 
between the heat shield & the coil.

Now, you have the coil close to the distributor & also?2 barriers?between the 
coil & engine.
-Cosmo Kramer 


      

From guy at genfiniti.com  Mon Feb  7 06:29:33 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 07:29:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Wiper Wheel Mounts
Message-ID: <B463CDB8-B7B0-401E-8850-4C69978D2E55@genfiniti.com>

Listers,

I am adding the windshield wiper mechs back to the car, and have some questions.

From what I can tell for the 4A, you insert the wiper wheel housing up through the hole in the scuttle.
With it now protruding out of the car, you slip over the soft nozzle cap, add the chrome nut, then tighten.

However, even if you tighten the nut to the end of the threads, there is still a lot of free-play because of the length of the vertical shaft.
How do you take out this free play?
Is there supposed to be some sort of spacers?
Do the hard tubes stabilize the wheel housings once they are added?

Any guidance is appreciated.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Feb  7 10:53:10 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 12:53:10 EST
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Wiper Wheel Mounts
Message-ID: <8389c.418909a6.3a818b86@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/7/2011 7:55:51 AM Central Standard Time, 
guy at genfiniti.com writes: 
> However, even if you tighten the nut to the end of the threads, there is 
> still a lot of free-play because of the length of the vertical shaft.
> How do you take out this free play?
> Is there supposed to be some sort of spacers?
> Do the hard tubes stabilize the wheel housings once they are added?
> 

There are two spacers for the shaft, one on either side of the sheet metal. 
 Since the shaft is not at a right angle to the sheet metal (it is at a 
right angle to the windscreen) the spacers are cut at a bevel to set it 
properly.  If you are missing the spacers that go underneath you will not get them 
to tighten up.

This page from the Roadster Factory TR6 parts catalog shows it pretty well.

http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-250GC/153.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024

Dave

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Feb  7 19:52:37 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 20:52:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] March 4,5,6
In-Reply-To: <534706887-1297023665-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-393031881-@bda806.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <534706887-1297023665-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-393031881-@bda806.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <F64043A60A634E2F9A7E0482AE25AB93@ranteer.local>

?any car shows/events in the deep south (LA, MS, GA, AL) or close by that weekend?

From tr6parts at charter.net  Tue Feb  8 05:46:41 2011
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2011 07:46:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr6 a/c pulley adapter
Message-ID: <EBEF98849FB143268E724DA82C570B73@Alan>

About 5 years ago I had some alloy a/c adapters made up.
I've had some inquiries if I still had some, but they've been long gone.

If theres any interest, theres a possibility I can get some remade.  It  depends on how many.
The last time they were around $140.
They will probably be a bit more since its 5 years since the last ones.

If theres any interest please let me know.

Al

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Feb  8 05:54:39 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2011 07:54:39 EST
Subject: [TR] March 4,5,6
Message-ID: <3f5e2.e201d96.3a82970f@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/7/2011 9:47:52 PM Central Standard Time, 
dave at ranteer.com writes: 
> ?any car shows/events in the deep south (LA, MS, GA, AL) or close by that 
> weekend?
> 

Bad timing, I'm afraid.  You're two weeks too early for the New Orleans 
show.  March 18 - 19.

http://www.bmcno.org/Show11/Carshow11.htm

Dave

From guy at genfiniti.com  Wed Feb  9 07:32:51 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2011 08:32:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Steering Column Question
Message-ID: <1C987259-132A-473A-B88A-86C0829D6770@genfiniti.com>

All,

OK.. got the windshield wiper issue resolved (there are supposed to be spacers in the scuttle to take up the slack), so now I'm thinking through the steering column at bit.
I plan on replacing the column bushings, felt pieces and the grounding straps that run through the column.

In looking at the workshop manual's exploded view of the column I see "stays" (basically steel steadying bars).
One is for the "Upper clamp" and the other for the "bracket".
When I disassembled everything years ago, these stays basically connected the steering column to the body, so I know exactly how to put them back.

Now here's the question.  How many stays are these pieces supposed to have?
Each of mine has one each.  The manual represents one each.  But the pieces the stays attach to have two holes each.
Is this because there are supposed to be two stays?  Or is the second hole for left/right steering conversion?

That second hole is somewhat misleading.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






From carlsereda at aol.com  Wed Feb  9 12:47:36 2011
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:47:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4A steering
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1297278002.14557.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6455D0B5.6153.44A8.8D68.B1132C1CAE52@aol.com>

Guy,
The brackets (with double sided holes) were probably made for several 
cars - just reinstall as it was originally set up on TR4A.
I would suggest doubling up the 'tube bushings' (razor off the 2 nubs 
for innermost ones, followed by the placement of the nub-intact 
bushes) not only because there is slight wear on that old shaft from 
before, that doesn't get rectified with new bushes, and the design is 
obviously a weak set up and for the price of two additional bushings 
you can really remove MORE slop, AND make it longer lasting..
Good luck,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
Now here's the question. How many stays are these pieces supposed to 
have?
Each of mine has one each. The manual represents one each. But the 
pieces the stays attach to have two holes each.
Is this because there are supposed to be two stays? Or is the second 
hole for left/right steering conversion?


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Feb  9 13:33:47 2011
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2011 12:33:47 -0800
Subject: [TR] Herman Van den Akker faked message
Message-ID: <AANLkTim7hGQGo7PkWihxHQf2+oW_zjWXiK6RCBc_y9+0@mail.gmail.com>

The Triumph mailing list, or Heman's may have been hacked.  Any of you who
have received a message ostensibly from him about needing money to transport
a cousin home from England should know it is a fake.  DO NOT SEND  money.  I
talked to hi a few minutes ago.  He is in Californai nt England. he is aware
of the problem and is working with Microsoft to reolve it.

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Feb  9 14:07:43 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2011 13:07:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] Herman Van den Akker faked message
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim7hGQGo7PkWihxHQf2+oW_zjWXiK6RCBc_y9+0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTim7hGQGo7PkWihxHQf2+oW_zjWXiK6RCBc_y9+0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a06240803c978b2413e7a@[192.168.2.2]>

Got the message, sent a copy to Cert ... They sent this follow up message:

	US-CERT has received your report and has assigned incident number
PH0000000835226 for future reference.


>The Triumph mailing list, or Heman's may have been hacked.  Any of you who
>have received a message ostensibly from him about needing money to transport
>a cousin home from England should know it is a fake.  DO NOT SEND  money.  I
>talked to hi a few minutes ago.  He is in Californai nt England. he is aware
>of the problem and is working with Microsoft to reolve it.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb  9 14:39:17 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2011 16:39:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Herman Van den Akker faked message
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim7hGQGo7PkWihxHQf2+oW_zjWXiK6RCBc_y9+0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTim7hGQGo7PkWihxHQf2+oW_zjWXiK6RCBc_y9+0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B990CB9C977B41B6A7AAD89FF1B42014@BobPC>

What's really weird about the email is that the idiot who hacked his account 
and is asking for money........never says in the email where to send the 
money!


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs


-----Original Message----- 
From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2011 3:33 PM
To: Triumph ; TR list
Subject: [TR] Herman Van den Akker faked message

The Triumph mailing list, or Heman's may have been hacked.  Any of you who
have received a message ostensibly from him about needing money to transport
a cousin home from England should know it is a fake.  DO NOT SEND  money.  I
talked to hi a few minutes ago.  He is in Californai nt England. he is aware
of the problem and is working with Microsoft to reolve it.

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb  9 14:40:15 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2011 13:40:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] Herman Van den Akker faked message
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim7hGQGo7PkWihxHQf2+oW_zjWXiK6RCBc_y9+0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTim7hGQGo7PkWihxHQf2+oW_zjWXiK6RCBc_y9+0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <07f101cbc8a1$f0c715a0$d25540e0$@rr.com>

Same thing happened to me a few months ago.  The message did not come
through the list, but appeared to be from a club member.  Evidently some
other list member's computer had gotten infected with a virus, that sent all
their contact information to a hacker in Africa.  The email I received
actually originated there, not in England as it stated.

As far as I know, the list only checks the return address to decide if a
message is from a list member or not.  Faking a return address is trivial,
so it would be quite possible to send a fake message through the list.  It
just hasn't happened yet (again AFAIK).

My point is to trust nothing you receive by email, whether it appears to be
from the list or not.

-- Randall 


From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  9 18:36:03 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2011 17:36:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] the scam - DON'T send money
Message-ID: <301560.43704.qm@web39422.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!

I received an E-mail with Herman Van Den Akke's Emial address. the main point of 
this E-mail is: his wife is 'stuck' in England with a sick sister & want's to 
borrow money to pay you back when she gets home. 


I phoned Herman & he said that it is NOT true & DON'T send ANY money. 

I'm sending this out to the list to let all know that it's a scam & IF you 
receive such an E-mail with my name or someone else name that you know, then 
DON"T send ANY money. Phone the person first to let them know of this. I'm also 
afraid that this person may have a way of getting into my address book or 
possibaly YOURS!
?-Cosmo Kramer 


      

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  9 18:39:43 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2011 17:39:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Steering Column Question
Message-ID: <520251.38338.qm@web39423.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Guy & list!
One stay is correct. ?-Cosmo Kramer 


      

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  9 18:44:56 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2011 17:44:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TRIUMPH List question
Message-ID: <851024.26224.qm@web39409.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
the past two TRIUMPH Digest that I have received had ONLY one thrad.?
Is this correct? or 
Is something happening to my computor or the list?

I find it hard to beleive that this list has gone silent with one one person 
sending a thread to the main list in two days. Plus, it's also a test to see 
when my next TRIUMPH Digest does or dosen't have my 3 threads that I have sent 
to you. (This is #3 thread.)
?-Cosmo Kramer 


      

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Feb  9 21:00:25 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2011 21:00:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Herman Van den Akker faked message
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim7hGQGo7PkWihxHQf2+oW_zjWXiK6RCBc_y9+0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTim7hGQGo7PkWihxHQf2+oW_zjWXiK6RCBc_y9+0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4D5362D9.9020406@bradakis.com>

Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:
> The Triumph mailing list, or Heman's may have been hacked.  Any of you who
> have received a message ostensibly from him about needing money to transport
> a cousin home from England should know it is a fake.  DO NOT SEND  money.  I
> talked to hi a few minutes ago.  He is in Californai nt England. he is aware
> of the problem and is working with Microsoft to reolve it.
>
>    

Microsoft *is* the problem.  But people will keep sending them
money for brain dead, virus spewing garbage that has no business
being anywhere near a network.  So it goes.

mjb.



From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Feb 10 05:42:30 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 07:42:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Herman Van den Akker faked message
In-Reply-To: <4D5362D9.9020406@bradakis.com>
References: <AANLkTim7hGQGo7PkWihxHQf2+oW_zjWXiK6RCBc_y9+0@mail.gmail.com>
	<4D5362D9.9020406@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <201102100742.31577.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday, February 09, 2011 11:00:25 pm Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:
> > The Triumph mailing list, or Heman's may have been hacked.  Any of you
> > who have received a message ostensibly from him about needing money to
> > transport a cousin home from England should know it is a fake.  DO NOT
> > SEND  money.  I talked to hi a few minutes ago.  He is in Californai nt
> > England. he is aware of the problem and is working with Microsoft to
> > reolve it.
> 
> Microsoft *is* the problem.  But people will keep sending them
> money for brain dead, virus spewing garbage that has no business
> being anywhere near a network.  So it goes.
> 
> mjb.
> 
> 
> 
Mark,

It is called "Marketing".

They have also created a very large support industry just to keep the Windows 
systems viable.

With all the free Linux systems available, I am not too sure why so many stick 
with Windows.

Bob

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Feb 10 06:41:38 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 07:41:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?the_scam_-_DON=27T_send_money?=
Message-ID: <20110210134119.98BF4187659@autox.team.net>

I got one about someone else.  Bogus.  Makes you wonder what nigerians in the UK might accomplish if they applied themselves to something else.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Cosmo Kramer" <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, Feb 9, 2011 19:36
Subject: [TR] the scam - DON'T send money
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Hi List!

I received an E-mail with Herman Van Den Akke's Emial address. the main point of
this E-mail is: his wife is 'stuck' in England with a sick sister & want's to
borrow money to pay you back when she gets home.


I phoned Herman & he said that it is NOT true & DON'T send ANY money.

I'm sending this out to the list to let all know that it's a scam & IF you
receive such an E-mail with my name or someone else name that you know, then
DON"T send ANY money. Phone the person first to let them know of this. I'm also
afraid that this person may have a way of getting into my address book or
possibaly YOURS!
?-Cosmo Kramer



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net


From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Feb 10 09:43:12 2011
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 11:43:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Herman Van den Akker faked message
In-Reply-To: <B990CB9C977B41B6A7AAD89FF1B42014@BobPC>
References: <AANLkTim7hGQGo7PkWihxHQf2+oW_zjWXiK6RCBc_y9+0@mail.gmail.com>
	<B990CB9C977B41B6A7AAD89FF1B42014@BobPC>
Message-ID: <8CD9758BDBD09F8-CD8-8EE6@webmail-m071.sysops.aol.com>


 That's easy.  Send it to Herman.  If you send enough he'll send you a transmission conversion kit.  ;-)

Dave

 


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley <triosan at gmail.com>; Triumph <6pack at autox.team.net>; TR list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Feb 9, 2011 3:54 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Herman Van den Akker faked message


What's really weird about the email is that the idiot who hacked his account 

and is asking for money........never says in the email where to send the 

money!





 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Feb 10 10:50:49 2011
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 12:50:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Herman Van den Akker faked message
In-Reply-To: <8CD9758BDBD09F8-CD8-8EE6@webmail-m071.sysops.aol.com>
References: <B990CB9C977B41B6A7AAD89FF1B42014@BobPC>
Message-ID: <4D53DF29.24168.188ECE9B@localhost>

On 10 Feb 2011 at 11:43, dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> That's easy.  Send it to Herman.  If you send enough he'll send
> you a transmission conversion kit.  ;-)

I'm sure most of you aren't looking for a transmission conversion 
kit.  Since I won't send you one you are welcome to send money to me 
instead.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+


From rbtr3a at cox.net  Thu Feb 10 11:58:03 2011
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 18:58:03 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tech drawing
Message-ID: <2052379186-1297364255-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-236472041-@bda2541.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Does anyone have or know where I can obtain the technical drawing for a TR3A rear fender.  

Ronnie Babbitt
Sent from my BlackBerry? smartphone with SprintSpeed

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Feb 10 16:49:08 2011
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 15:49:08 -0800
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
Message-ID: <AANLkTinexiBf6KijnVo42cNVR+y4HGOkaQurqU7U-yh4@mail.gmail.com>

Harbor Freight in the US has a non-contact laser thermometer for sale.
 Anyone used any of these types with good results? They are on sale for $30

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Feb 10 17:35:10 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 19:35:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinexiBf6KijnVo42cNVR+y4HGOkaQurqU7U-yh4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinexiBf6KijnVo42cNVR+y4HGOkaQurqU7U-yh4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F2D9B1D5D455431AB0AA295052385A7A@BobPC>

I've got a Ryobi one and find it very useful both in the house and car. This 
time of the year in the cold northeast it also shows all the places where 
cold air is leaking in to the house.

And it's fun to play with too..........


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Sujit Roy
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2011 6:49 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer

Harbor Freight in the US has a non-contact laser thermometer for sale.
Anyone used any of these types with good results? They are on sale for $30

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Thu Feb 10 17:47:48 2011
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 19:47:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
Message-ID: <1025ce.48244d23.3a85e134@aol.com>



In a message dated 2/10/2011 7:05:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
triumphstag at gmail.com writes:

Harbor  Freight in the US has a non-contact laser thermometer for sale.
Anyone used  any of these types with good results? They are on sale for  $30
 
 
I bought one of those - it's reading varies from others by as much  40 
degrees (at 400 degrees) 
so I recommend you don't waste the $30
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc



From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 10 18:28:21 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 17:28:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinexiBf6KijnVo42cNVR+y4HGOkaQurqU7U-yh4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinexiBf6KijnVo42cNVR+y4HGOkaQurqU7U-yh4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <09d201cbc98a$f8956040$e9c020c0$@rr.com>

> Harbor Freight in the US has a non-contact laser thermometer for sale.
>  Anyone used any of these types with good results? They are on sale for
> $30

I have a slightly older one from HF, might not be the same model.  Seems to
work OK, with the standard caveat for "laser" thermometers: the displayed
value depends heavily on the emissivity of the surface you are shooting.
Aluminum in particular has a widely varying emissivity, so it's practically
impossible to get a valid reading from say an aluminum thermostat housing
unless you stick a spot of paint or tape on it.  Cloth-covered radiator
hoses also confound it.

-- Randall 


From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Feb 10 20:18:44 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 20:18:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
In-Reply-To: <F2D9B1D5D455431AB0AA295052385A7A@BobPC>
References: <AANLkTinexiBf6KijnVo42cNVR+y4HGOkaQurqU7U-yh4@mail.gmail.com>
	<F2D9B1D5D455431AB0AA295052385A7A@BobPC>
Message-ID: <4D54AA94.5020206@bradakis.com>

Bob Danielson wrote:
>
> And it's fun to play with too..........
>

If you are into cooking as I am, the kitchen is another great place
to play with it.

mjb.


From darrellw at ipns.com  Thu Feb 10 20:52:13 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 19:52:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
In-Reply-To: <09d201cbc98a$f8956040$e9c020c0$@rr.com>
References: <AANLkTinexiBf6KijnVo42cNVR+y4HGOkaQurqU7U-yh4@mail.gmail.com>
	<09d201cbc98a$f8956040$e9c020c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAAA324A-4DC9-473F-98DF-67E1F10BAD39@ipns.com>


Also pay attention to the area they measure over, it isn't just the point the laser hits.  Mine, at least, covers a circle with a diameter roughly equal to the distance between the thermometer and the surface you are measuring.

-Darrell

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Feb 11 02:28:24 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 04:28:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
Message-ID: <19c76f.143658fb.3a865b38@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/10/2011 6:06:00 PM Central Standard Time, 
triumphstag at gmail.com writes: 
> Harbor Freight in the US has a non-contact laser thermometer for sale.
> Anyone used any of these types with good results? They are on sale for $30
> 

I have one and I use it more in the kitchen than anywhere else.  Great for 
preheating a skillet.

But I have used it to diagnose a fouled plug a time or two by looking at 
the exhaust manifold runners.

And it's great for lighting up road signs at night.

Dave

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Feb 11 06:40:32 2011
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 06:40:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
In-Reply-To: <CAAA324A-4DC9-473F-98DF-67E1F10BAD39@ipns.com>
References: <AANLkTinexiBf6KijnVo42cNVR+y4HGOkaQurqU7U-yh4@mail.gmail.com>	<09d201cbc98a$f8956040$e9c020c0$@rr.com>
	<CAAA324A-4DC9-473F-98DF-67E1F10BAD39@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <4D553C50.2080602@gmail.com>

On 2/10/11 8:52 PM, Darrell Walker wrote:
> Also pay attention to the area they measure over, it isn't just the point the laser hits.  Mine, at least, covers a circle with a diameter roughly equal to the distance between the thermometer and the surface you are measuring.
>
>    
I think that's probably a lot of the difference between a cheapo one and 
an expensive one.  Are you measuring the spot that your laser is pointed 
at or are you getting that spot averaged in with the surrounding half acre.

In the cars, mine gets mostly used to compare exhaust temperatures at 
the base of the exhaust ports and to look for hot spots in the fuel 
delivery system.

But I also use mine in the winter to look along the edges of the doors 
and windows for thermal leaks.  It can be a quick spot check for the 
oven, refrigerator  and wine storage temperature calibration among other 
things.

I paid a little more for a narrow focus meter.

Teriann

Who's TR3 hard top has been freshly painted and is now out getting a new 
headliner installed.

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Fri Feb 11 07:15:53 2011
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 14:15:53 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tech drawing
Message-ID: <509789023-1297433703-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-626870160-@bda2541.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>


Sent from my BlackBerry? smartphone with SprintSpeed

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Fri Feb 11 07:16:36 2011
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 14:16:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tech drawing
Message-ID: <1427964758-1297433747-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-450568323-@bda2541.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Does anyone have or know where I can obtain the technical drawing for a TR3A rear fender.  

Ronnie Babbitt
Sent from my BlackBerry? smartphone with SprintSpeed

From machinemd at msn.com  Fri Feb 11 13:09:40 2011
From: machinemd at msn.com (STEVE STERN)
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 15:09:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1297450802.813.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1297450802.813.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT102-W4086207F167F98FD012B39A9EF0@phx.gbl>


For only a couple dollars more, here's a much better choice from an industrial tool manufacturer that sells models up to $1000+ and consistantly great user ratings:
 

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=RAYMT4&source=froogle&kw=RAYMT4

 
Steve  


 

> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 15:49:08 -0800
> From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
> Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID:
> <AANLkTinexiBf6KijnVo42cNVR+y4HGOkaQurqU7U-yh4 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> 
> Harbor Freight in the US has a non-contact laser thermometer for sale.
> Anyone used any of these types with good results? They are on sale for $30
> 
> Sujit
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy, Realtor
> Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
> (408) 839-8359
> roysrealty.com 		 	   		  

From chandler.rick at comcast.net  Fri Feb 11 13:14:56 2011
From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick)
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 12:14:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
Message-ID: <33868BDFC0794EF09786BFACB3A1318E@RickPC>

These units measure emitted infrared; the laser is there to direct the
sensor. I use a unit with a 6:1 spot ratio (spot diameter is 1/6th of the
distance to the source) which is quite handy if you prepare shiny surfaces
with a spot of flat paint or tape. On the "prepared" surface of the timing
case of my Norton, my IR sensor read 15% low compared to an adjacent type K
thermocouple; close enough to be useful. Expect to pay 100 bucks for a
decent IR multimeter like ExTech.

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1972 Norton 750 Commando Combat

1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 

 


From brian at rickernet.net  Fri Feb 11 14:30:14 2011
From: brian at rickernet.net (Brian Ricker)
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 15:30:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] non-contact laser thermometer
In-Reply-To: <SNT102-W4086207F167F98FD012B39A9EF0@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.3.1297450802.813.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<SNT102-W4086207F167F98FD012B39A9EF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <df1d4fbde785bfa24d9893a0c7af6c91@www.rickernet.net>

 This particular model is available at NAPA, thats where I got mine.

 On Fri, 11 Feb 2011 15:09:40 -0500, STEVE STERN wrote:
> For only a couple dollars more, here's a much better choice from an
> industrial tool manufacturer that sells models up to $1000+ and
> consistantly great user ratings:
>
>
> 
> http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=RAYMT4&source=froogle&kw=RAYMT4
>
>
> Steve


From 61TR4ever at comcast.net  Sat Feb 12 01:09:34 2011
From: 61TR4ever at comcast.net (Gary Grant)
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2011 03:09:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Service Bulletin
Message-ID: <LOBBKEDBINBGPLMEJOFNMEJMHCAA.61TR4ever@comcast.net>

I am in need of the complete service bulletin T-62-10 (Western Zone). Does
anyone have a copy they are willing to share?

gary


From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sat Feb 12 12:31:49 2011
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2011 14:31:49 EST
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <8ff1a.76bb4d56.3a883a25@aol.com>

I don't know if anyone knows of Anatoly Atunoff (sp) but he was involved in 
 a hit and run accident outside of Amarillo, TX a few days ago.  He built,  
or had a hand in, building Hallet raceway 35 mile west of Tulsa, OK.  I  
have met him on occasion and participate in one of our All British Day events  
and I can't remember if he brought a Bristol or a Cooper.  He was an  
accomplished driver "in the day" and we are all praying for his recovery.   
Please read the link below for more information.
 
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs
 
http://www.newson6.com/Global/story.asp?S=14015212&Call=Email&Format=Text


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Feb 12 14:03:55 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2011 16:03:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Anatoly Artunoff
In-Reply-To: <926e3.6b6187da.3a884a42@aol.com>
References: <926e3.6b6187da.3a884a42@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B29BF3D479AD45C58A00C78B7860F2C9@BobPC>

Hemmings had a short article here http://tinyurl.com/47p7byy


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 3:40 PM
To: spook01 at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Anatoly Artunoff

The newspaper reports that one leg was amputated and the other was
crushed.  I don't know anymore than that and relying on others for more 
info.
Jerry Johnson is a member of our Club and a friend of and formerly  raced
against Toly. We are waiting for more info.
Sam




From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Feb 12 14:30:43 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2011 13:30:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] Message from Herman ...
Message-ID: <a06240801c97cabe9c123@[192.168.2.2]>

Just got a call from Herman van Den Akker.  His computer is now 
working, but he has lost all eMails from the past 3 Days .  If there 
is information or questions for him, now would be a good time to 
re-send them.
Naturally I reminded him that if he had an Apple iMac, none of this 
would have happened.  ;-)
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From allegrorover at mac.com  Sat Feb 12 15:35:51 2011
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2011 17:35:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Message from Herman ...
In-Reply-To: <a06240801c97cabe9c123@[192.168.2.2]>
References: <a06240801c97cabe9c123@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <3C89FB48-BBE4-4A47-A21D-94ACDCFAE8E1@mac.com>

Hear hear, I have had Mac's for several years now and I also highly recommend them. NFI
Thanks for the heads up I will send Hermann a message and try and give him some moral support.



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com




From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Feb 12 17:11:22 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2011 19:11:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Herman's Email
Message-ID: <6BD2AA18ED31411887F0B9B57226F2BE@BobPC>

I just had a phone call from Herman asking that I let you know he?s back 
online but has lost a lot of email, especially over the past few days. If 
anyone recently sent him email, he?s asking that you resend it. I?ll also 
post something in the 6-Pack & BCF Forums.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs 


From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sun Feb 13 00:04:12 2011
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC)
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2011 01:04:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Message from Herman ...
References: <a06240801c97cabe9c123@[192.168.2.2]>
	<3C89FB48-BBE4-4A47-A21D-94ACDCFAE8E1@mac.com>
Message-ID: <2C06FBC384044D08866AA23D656AEC62@0817C93C637E473>

We had this argument (and it was rather heated) on this list about 15 years 
age.  I adamantly stood up for MS machines back then.  I was wrong. :-)

Ken Gano



> Hear hear, I have had Mac's for several years now and I also highly 
> recommend them. NFI

> Tony Cascio
> 58 TR3A
> TS27093L
> allegrorover at mac.com


From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sun Feb 13 00:12:34 2011
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC)
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2011 01:12:34 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Anatoly Artunoff
References: <926e3.6b6187da.3a884a42@aol.com>
	<B29BF3D479AD45C58A00C78B7860F2C9@BobPC>
Message-ID: <F61868BBB8744EF19BC2E9E1D03C3411@0817C93C637E473>

I had the pleasure of meeting Artunoff for the first time in Topeka last 
summer.  What a gentleman.  In addition to one of the premier car 
collections in the country, he is (or was) also the owner and designer of 
Hallett raceway, a Ferrari (and other) auto dealer, an accomplished author 
and premier rally and race driver.  He is also the namesake for Bert Levy's 
book "Toly's Ghost."  A true car nut who has been in the thick of it for 
over fifty years.

God Speed, Toly.

Ken Gano

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <TRDOCTOR at aol.com>; <spook01 at comcast.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Anatoly Artunoff


> Hemmings had a short article here http://tinyurl.com/47p7byy
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> 1975 TR6 with:
> Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed
> Nissan Diff & CVJs
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 3:40 PM
> To: spook01 at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Anatoly Artunoff
>
> The newspaper reports that one leg was amputated and the other was
> crushed.  I don't know anymore than that and relying on others for more 
> info.
> Jerry Johnson is a member of our Club and a friend of and formerly  raced
> against Toly. We are waiting for more info.
> Sam
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3439 - Release Date: 02/12/11
> 


From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Feb 13 06:28:09 2011
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2011 07:28:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] Message from Herman ...
In-Reply-To: <2C06FBC384044D08866AA23D656AEC62@0817C93C637E473>
References: <a06240801c97cabe9c123@[192.168.2.2]>,
	<3C89FB48-BBE4-4A47-A21D-94ACDCFAE8E1@mac.com>,
	<2C06FBC384044D08866AA23D656AEC62@0817C93C637E473>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W36574DF0C207A9091AF58FE1D10@phx.gbl>


I do not mean to start another heated ?discussion? but I think maintaining your virus protection and firewall is more important than what OS you are running.  In my opinion the reason WinOS has the most problems is that it is the most common.  If we follow that logic, everyone you guys convert to Macs makes your computer more venerable. Going the other way, when was the last time you heard about a virus infecting a computer running CBM?

Rich White Central, IL USA 
'63 TR3B TCF###L 
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! 



 
> From: triumphs at consolidated.net
> To: allegrorover at mac.com; anabil007 at comcast.net
> Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2011 01:04:12 -0600
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Message from Herman ...
> 
> We had this argument (and it was rather heated) on this list about 15 years 
> age. I adamantly stood up for MS machines back then. I was wrong. :-)
> 
> Ken Gano
> 
> 
> 
> > Hear hear, I have had Mac's for several years now and I also highly 
> > recommend them. NFI
> 
> > Tony Cascio
> > 58 TR3A
> > TS27093L
> > allegrorover at mac.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
> 
 		 	   		  

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Feb 13 07:52:40 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2011 09:52:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] F.T.
Message-ID: <BLU156-w430276990EF07EA605C8FEBAD10@phx.gbl>


I was out in the shop playing with a powder coating project last night and got to thinking about our powder coating guru Fred Thomas.  Have not seen anything from Fred in quite a while. Was hoping to see him at VTR last year but no go.  Hope he is doing OK. Anybody seen or heard from Fred lately? Sure miss his postings.

Marty
 		 	   		  

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Feb 13 08:24:47 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2011 10:24:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] F.T.
In-Reply-To: <BLU156-w430276990EF07EA605C8FEBAD10@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU156-w430276990EF07EA605C8FEBAD10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F814F6AA078C4B119E3C3E7447A422C1@BobPC>

I wonder if Fred gave up on the Mail List out of frustration with him not 
being able to post anymore. Every time he tried to post a question or 
response it came through as empty. That was back in the summer and fall. 
Maybe I'll email him off list and see how he's doing.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: marty sukey
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2011 9:52 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] F.T.


I was out in the shop playing with a powder coating project last night and 
got to thinking about our powder coating guru Fred Thomas.  Have not seen 
anything from Fred in quite a while. Was hoping to see him at VTR last year 
but no go.  Hope he is doing OK. Anybody seen or heard from Fred lately? 
Sure miss his postings.

Marty

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 13 08:35:52 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2011 07:35:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] Message from Herman ...
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W36574DF0C207A9091AF58FE1D10@phx.gbl>
References: <a06240801c97cabe9c123@[192.168.2.2]>,
	<3C89FB48-BBE4-4A47-A21D-94ACDCFAE8E1@mac.com>,
	<2C06FBC384044D08866AA23D656AEC62@0817C93C637E473>
	<SNT123-W36574DF0C207A9091AF58FE1D10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <061f01cbcb93$b28ce400$0301a8c0@randall>

> I do not mean to start another heated "discussion" but I 
> think maintaining your virus protection and firewall is more 
> important than what OS you are running.

And being careful about what and how you open.  But the main point is that
it doesn't matter what OS Herman is running, since it was not Herman's
computer that got hacked/infected.

BTW, while Apple malware is certainly much less common due to Apple's lack
of market share, it does exist.
http://tinyurl.com/27ujnhy

-- Randall  


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Feb 13 09:17:30 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2011 09:17:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 radiator Progrees report
In-Reply-To: <9B68EEC8311943EB9F28DDF1A442AAF3@athlon>
References: <9B68EEC8311943EB9F28DDF1A442AAF3@athlon>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimowyanHOXEqtkKVzmR1WaRkqTrGf39YDCSvov+@mail.gmail.com>

On 2/5/11, Jim Vassiliadis <diggle at clear.net.nz> wrote:
> ...had my 1962 TR4 radiator cored.... I can only fit a 10" fan due to the crank hole

On my TR3A which still has the crank hole I used a 12" electric.  It
covers the hole but I can still use the crank -- I had to cut one of
the ribs on the fan housing to allow the crank through.  When I insert
the hand crank the tip just pushes the fan blade out of the way (if it
is even in the way) and then on thru to the hub.

If you're planning on eliminating the hub but still using the crank
then I think life is going to get complicated.

Since non-originality may bug you (your comment on wanting the crank
hole) why not mount the fan as an auxillary pusher and keep the stock
fan (or better still a correct tropical fan)? That is what I did as
the pusher is very hard to detect w/o looking into the grille.  From
the engine compartment all appears original and the electric
fan/tropical fan seem to be an effective combo even in Tucson summers.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Feb 13 09:47:34 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2011 09:47:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] F.T.
In-Reply-To: <BLU156-w430276990EF07EA605C8FEBAD10@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU156-w430276990EF07EA605C8FEBAD10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4D580B26.1030207@bradakis.com>

marty sukey wrote:
> . Anybody seen or heard from Fred lately? Sure miss his postings.
>
>
>    

He hasn't tried to post since I changed the list filter, so I have
no idea if his post would work or not.

mjb.



From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Feb 13 09:49:13 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2011 11:49:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 radiator Progrees report
Message-ID: <58f78.57a6b19d.3a896589@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/13/2011 10:18:03 AM Central Standard Time, 
ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes: 
> Since non-originality may bug you (your comment on wanting the crank
> hole) why not mount the fan as an auxillary pusher and keep the stock
> fan (or better still a correct tropical fan)? That is what I did as
> the pusher is very hard to detect w/o looking into the grille.  From
> the engine compartment all appears original and the electric
> fan/tropical fan seem to be an effective combo even in Tucson summers.
> 

Also, the engine driven fan works on the lower 2/3 of the radiator.  
Mounting an electric pusher on the upper 2/3 will provide the best cooling 
combination.  Plus it moves it up where it is less noticeable fromt he front.  
That's what I did on my TR6.

Dave

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Mon Feb 14 05:29:06 2011
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 07:29:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] F.T.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1297623602.22238.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1297623602.22238.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <9FC8F352-A631-4385-B6BD-D2CC9B2C85DF@execulink.com>

marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com> wrote:

I was out in the shop playing with a powder coating project last night and got to thinking about our powder coating guru Fred Thomas.  Have not seen anything from Fred in quite a while. Was hoping to see him at VTR last year but no go.  Hope he is doing OK. Anybody seen or heard from Fred lately? Sure miss his postings.

Marty
		 	   		  
------------------------------

I had a response from Fred recently to one of my posts but it was directed to me and not the list. I suspect Fred may still have issues posting to the list but likely is receiving the emails - hence the direct response. Looking forward to seeing "Gentleman Fred" this spring or summer. Greetings Fred - hope you see this!

Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com

From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Feb 14 06:07:22 2011
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 08:07:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] F.T.
In-Reply-To: <9FC8F352-A631-4385-B6BD-D2CC9B2C85DF@execulink.com>
References: <mailman.5.1297623602.22238.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<9FC8F352-A631-4385-B6BD-D2CC9B2C85DF@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <8CD9A5F4050AA60-1774-FABC@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com>


 Here's a suggestion: If Fred responds privately to a post and it is of a general interest nature (i.e.: a response to a question that many would have interest in the answer and not too personal) please post it to the list.  (With Fred's permission, of course)  This will let us all benefit from his wisdom and experience and also let us know he is still doing well.  At least until we get the issue with Fred's computer sorted out and he can again post to the list.

Dave

 


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at execulink.com>


I had a response from Fred recently to one of my posts but it was directed to me 

and not the list. I suspect Fred may still have issues posting to the list but 

likely is receiving the emails - hence the direct response. Looking forward to 

seeing "Gentleman Fred" this spring or summer. Greetings Fred - hope you see 

this!





 

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Mon Feb 14 08:19:31 2011
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 10:19:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] F.T.
In-Reply-To: <8CD9A5F4050AA60-1774-FABC@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com>
References: <mailman.5.1297623602.22238.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<9FC8F352-A631-4385-B6BD-D2CC9B2C85DF@execulink.com>
	<8CD9A5F4050AA60-1774-FABC@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7B282A478DAE4400AA6DBBBC1CF462C3@KeithsDesktop>

Dave Massey wrote:
Here's a suggestion: If Fred responds privately to a post and it is of a general interest nature (i.e.: a response to a question that many would have interest in the answer and not too personal) please post it to the list.  (With Fred's permission, of course)  This will let us all benefit from his wisdom and experience and also let us know he is still doing well.  At least until we get the issue with Fred's computer sorted out and he can again post to the list.

+++++

Excellent idea Dave. Is that OK with you Fred?
Keith


From rolds at plausa.com  Mon Feb 14 08:46:34 2011
From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 15:46:34 +0000
Subject: [TR] [Shop-talk] Drafting Program
In-Reply-To: <4D588AA4.7030103@earthlink.net>
References: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E505E3D1@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
	<4D588AA4.7030103@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E506EBDE@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>

Brian,

Yes I tried to run the program and it does not work.  I have contacted Autodesk and they have told me the program will not run with Windows 7 and they only way to save my old files is to find someone who has the program and can convert the files to DWG format.  

Thanks for your suggestions.

Ronald Olds
Sales Manager
Plasser American Corporation
PO Box 5464
2001 Myers Road
Chesapeake, VA 23324-0464
?
Phone? (757) 543-3526
Cell????? (630) 240-0818
Fax???? ?(757) 494-7186?
?
The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may be proprietary, privileged or confidential and is intended solely for the use of the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or any other such use is strictly prohibited.?Furthermore, any reviews, semination or copying by anyone other than the intended recipient is expressly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender and destroy all copies of the original transmittal.

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Kemp [mailto:bk13 at earthlink.net] 
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2011 8:52 PM
To: Ron Olds
Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net; Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net); mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drafting Program

Ronald - Did you try the program on the new computer? I use several programs from XP that are not listed as Windows 7 compatible on my new Win 7 Home Premium 64 computer. One has no issues at all. Fireworks MX
2004 switches the screen display to eliminate all the fancy screen stuff, but everything goes back once I close the program. Dreamweaver MX
2004 works fine for everything I do at home. At work, I can't use it because it has to be run as an administrator and looses network drives.

My recommendation it to give the current program a test and see if it still works.

Brian

On 2/11/2011 6:53 AM, Ron Olds wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
>
> Back in my previous versions of Windows I used the Auto Sketch 
> drafting program which worked great for me.  Now that I have had to 
> update to Windows 7 I can no longer use this program.  I am looking 
> for something new that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.  Anyone have any suggestions?
>
> Ronald Olds
>
> The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may 
> be proprietary, privileged or confidential and is intended solely for 
> the use of the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or 
> any other such use is strictly prohibited. Furthermore, any reviews, 
> semination or copying by anyone other than the intended recipient is 
> expressly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, 
> please notify the sender and destroy all copies of the original transmittal.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
>
>


From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Feb 14 12:27:33 2011
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 14:27:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] F.T.
References: <mailman.5.1297623602.22238.triumphs@autox.team.net><9FC8F352-A631-4385-B6BD-D2CC9B2C85DF@execulink.com>
	<8CD9A5F4050AA60-1774-FABC@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8305C001B85C46C2AFE67591C5C43552@DCS78M81>

I guess I'd better wade in and offer some explanation of Fred's condition. 
I've been in touch with Debbie, his wife, and have permission to share some 
information.
Fred is in the hospital where they are trying to stabilize his medications. 
He's diabetic, which has affected his thinking and reasoning and he has 
other health issues.  There isn't an address for him at this point and he 
does not have computer access.  She did say that his computer had crashed a 
few weeks ago and that he had gotten another but wasn't sure if he had 
gotten back online before the hospital stay.
I felt like I'd better say something to this list to which Fred was so great 
a part.  I'm sure we all wish him the best and as full a recovery as 
possible.
I'll try to keep the list updated.
Tom 



From diggle at clear.net.nz  Mon Feb 14 12:29:44 2011
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim Vassiliadis)
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 08:29:44 +1300
Subject: [TR] TR4 radiator progress report
Message-ID: <EB36C55A8BB84C76B63B7F9F96BA4E03@athlon>

First I would like to thank the people who replied to my posting.

The radiator is in and the fan mounted on the front.
I tried to remove the fan extension dog but did not have the correct tools
so decided to remove the plastic fan from the dog and install the 10"
electric fan on the front as a pusher.
The only problem I had was with the temp sensor, which was to be inserted
between a hose and the steel pipe between the two bottom hoses.
Could not get it to stop leaking, even with the special pad that the temp
sensor wire ran down the middle of until I tightened the hose clip up with a
socket and wrench.
I have run it once on my car pad, adjusted the activation temp and it works
very very well.
All thats left is to add an override switch and then to take it for a run on
the road.

Jim and the getting close to being back on the road TR4


From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Feb 14 12:35:06 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 13:35:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  F.T.
In-Reply-To: <8305C001B85C46C2AFE67591C5C43552@DCS78M81>
References: <mailman.5.1297623602.22238.triumphs@autox.team.net><9FC8F352-A631-4385-B6BD-D2CC9B2C85DF@execulink.com><8CD9A5F4050AA60-1774-FABC@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com>
	<8305C001B85C46C2AFE67591C5C43552@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <9E1B7B1D59F640AA952375D297930B2A@ranteer.local>

?our thoughts and prayers go out to him.  best of luck, Fred!

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Feb 14 13:29:19 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 13:29:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  F.T.
In-Reply-To: <9E1B7B1D59F640AA952375D297930B2A@ranteer.local>
References: <mailman.5.1297623602.22238.triumphs@autox.team.net><9FC8F352-A631-4385-B6BD-D2CC9B2C85DF@execulink.com><8CD9A5F4050AA60-1774-FABC@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com><8305C001B85C46C2AFE67591C5C43552@DCS78M81>
	<9E1B7B1D59F640AA952375D297930B2A@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <0D3D445BE55B4A9A962D3559CBE87979@bboffice>

I have an address for Fred and will get a card off to him today from all of
us.
Bill
TS-30766L "Tarbaby"

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2011 12:35 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [SPAM] Re: F.T.

?our thoughts and prayers go out to him.  best of luck, Fred!
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Feb 14 13:33:44 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 14:33:44 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] F.T.
Message-ID: <595056849.1835850.1297715624246.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

Thank you Tom - 
 
I am sure that I am not alone in my admiration of Fred.  20 years ago when I was first getting back into the TR he was one of the first to offer guidance (and condolences).   

He shared his room with me at one of the SE regionals when the hotel overbooked and I was left out in the cold - well not the cold - this is Florida after all.   
 
Twelve years ago when I was driving a U-Haul back from NY after my acquisition of the stalled restoration that is almost now complete - we met up for a quick appraisal of the project.  It ended up that I stayed the night and spent several hours talking about it, his '3, Tbird and Model A.   
 
I most fervently wish him my best.  My thoughts and prayers are with him.  

 
Carl Musson
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO - rounding the final turn toward completion.
Tampa, Florida

Feb 14, 2011 07:28:22 PM, tfansher at comcast.net wrote:

I guess I'd better wade in and offer some explanation of Fred's condition. 
I've been in touch with Debbie, his wife, and have permission to share some 
information.
Fred is in the hospital where they are trying to stabilize his medications. 
He's diabetic, which has affected his thinking and reasoning and he has 
other health issues. There isn't an address for him at this point and he 
does not have computer access. She did say that his computer had crashed a 
few weeks ago and that he had gotten another but wasn't sure if he had 
gotten back online before the hospital stay.
I felt like I'd better say something to this list to which Fred was so great 
a part. I'm sure we all wish him the best and as full a recovery as 
possible.
I'll try to keep the list updated.
Tom 


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Feb 14 14:46:12 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 21:46:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  F.T.
In-Reply-To: <0D3D445BE55B4A9A962D3559CBE87979@bboffice>
Message-ID: <199930173.926662.1297719972881.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks, Bill!  And be sure to apologize that we were unable to powder-coat it!

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: wbeech at flash.net
> To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 14, 2011 2:29:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  F.T.
> 
> I have an address for Fred and will get a card off to him today from
> all of
> us.
> Bill
> TS-30766L "Tarbaby"
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
> Sent: Monday, February 14, 2011 12:35 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] [SPAM] Re: F.T.
> 
> ?our thoughts and prayers go out to him.  best of luck, Fred!
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Feb 14 17:10:11 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 19:10:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] F.T.
In-Reply-To: <8305C001B85C46C2AFE67591C5C43552@DCS78M81>
References: <mailman.5.1297623602.22238.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CD9A5F4050AA60-1774-FABC@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com>
	<8305C001B85C46C2AFE67591C5C43552@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <201102141910.12139.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Tom,

Thanks for the update on Fred.

We all wish Fred the best and I hope once he gets home from the hospital he 
will start up on the list once more.

Fred did me a big favor a few years back when he PCd the dash brace for my 63 
TR4. What a wonderful job Fred did with his brand of crinkle black. Much 
better than the factory original finish for sure.

I was able to thank Fred by sending him a gift pack of micro-brews from a 
local brewery for the following Christmas.

I didn't know Fred was a diabetic but I think if you only have a beer once in 
awhile it is ok.

Hope to hear from Fred soon.

Bob

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Feb 14 19:34:46 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 19:34:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fred Thomas
In-Reply-To: <201102141910.12139.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <mailman.5.1297623602.22238.triumphs@autox.team.net>	<8CD9A5F4050AA60-1774-FABC@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com>	<8305C001B85C46C2AFE67591C5C43552@DCS78M81>
	<201102141910.12139.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4D59E646.4070306@bradakis.com>

Yes it will be nice to hear from Fred again someday soon.  As I mentioned
in a previous message I did change the incoming mail filter to see if
that would allow his poorly formatted messages to come through.
We'll see what happens upon his return.

See - I do spend some time working on Team.Net stuff.  Sometimes
I wonder just how many hours over the last 20+ years I've put
into Team.Net.  I bet it could possibly be close to half as much time
as Fred has put into this hobby and its people.

mjb.


From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Feb 14 21:37:43 2011
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 22:37:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fred Thomas
In-Reply-To: <4D59E646.4070306@bradakis.com>
References: <mailman.5.1297623602.22238.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CD9A5F4050AA60-1774-FABC@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com>
	<8305C001B85C46C2AFE67591C5C43552@DCS78M81>,
	<201102141910.12139.yellowtr@adelphia.net>,
	<4D59E646.4070306@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-w4663953D1035736C32C338E1D30@phx.gbl>


I miss Fred's post and the good natured fun we had with him and his powder coating!
 
I only met him in person once when he came to the CU British Car show.
I count him as one of my very special internet friends.


Rich White Central, IL USA 
'63 TR3B TCF###L 
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! 

 		 	   		  

From emw327 at gmail.com  Tue Feb 15 01:26:24 2011
From: emw327 at gmail.com (=?UTF-8?B?ZW1haWwg4oWcIg==?=)
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 09:26:24 +0100
Subject: [TR] MX5 Miata seats
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=PVLPXOEnPAX88e5sM7Qhpeg3GU0AT01VY6VcW@mail.gmail.com>

Hello,

I'm a Belgian reader of the Group.
I like to put Mazda MX5 seats in my TR250.
Can anybody tell me how I should fix them in the car?

Sincerley,

Guido Van Oppen

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Feb 15 03:01:33 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 10:01:33 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Fred Thomas
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-w4663953D1035736C32C338E1D30@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.5.1297623602.22238.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CD9A5F4050AA60-1774-FABC@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com>
	<8305C001B85C46C2AFE67591C5C43552@DCS78M81>,
	<201102141910.12139.yellowtr@adelphia.net>,
	<4D59E646.4070306@bradakis.com>
	<SNT123-w4663953D1035736C32C338E1D30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <988080.99291.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Fred Thomas is one of the true gentlemen of this hobby. I know from experience 
that there are many more - but Fred Thomas is very special.

Jonmac




________________________________
From: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
To: TR owners List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 15 February, 2011 4:37:43
Subject: Re: [TR] Fred Thomas


I miss Fred's post and the good natured fun we had with him and his powder 
coating!

I only met him in person once when he came to the CU British Car show.
I count him as one of my very special internet friends.


Rich White Central, IL USA 
'63 TR3B TCF###L 
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! 

??? ??? ??? ? ??? ??? ? 
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk


      

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 15 06:56:39 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 08:56:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] MX5 Miata seats
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim=QijwUHP30hvw2h+jrosrzKfxzBP9EeZYOP99@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTim=QijwUHP30hvw2h+jrosrzKfxzBP9EeZYOP99@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E7D2F4B06ED343C09254D74D9E6BDB1B@BobPC>

Hi Guido,

I've got the whole process documented on my site
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm

Make sure you get the early Miata seats as the older ones get too wide to 
fit without modifying the frame for the top. I made up my own brackets and 
then worked with Joe Alexander on his brackets.  In the seat installation 
section, you'll find a reference to brackets that A.R.E. (Joe Alexander) 
makes but these won't fit a right hand drive car using seats from a RHD MX5. 
Joe had a customer try and they had to modify the brackets to get it all to 
fit.

The other advantage to finding early MX5 seats is that they have a cut-out 
in the headrest for speakers.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: email ?"
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2011 3:26 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] MX5 Miata seats

Hello,

I'm a Belgian reader of the Group.
I like to put Mazda MX5 seats in my TR250.
Can anybody tell me how I should fix them in the car?

Sincerley,

Guido Van Oppen


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 15 14:03:47 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 13:03:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3's, electric fans and fan shrouds
Message-ID: <132419.55911.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

here in California's desert i suffer over heating during stop and go traffic in 
the summer. driving has always been fine.
i have been running an old, unknown CFM, 10" electric fan.
i bought a nice big 14" spal 1720cfm electric fan. made a great mounting bracket 
on the old beat up radiator. but, whoops the fan is too fat in the middle (like 
me) and interferes with the tube that bolts across the strut towers. 3 3/8" fan 
height Vs 3" tube to radiator distance. DOH!
so lots of questions:
has any one found a high volume 13" fan that fits? 
has anyone ever fabricated a shroud for their fan?
seems to me that shrouding off 50% of the radiator kinda kills the idea. i know 
all of the fan area's air?is forced thought the fan hole in the shroud at 
driving speed, but there is probably an empirical balance point between free 
area and shrouded area.
any one played with?this?
thanks
Frank?


      

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 15 16:49:00 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:49:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3's, electric fans and fan shrouds
In-Reply-To: <132419.55911.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <132419.55911.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9EAF19C29EBB4EE59D73E5D2B9F8EA64@BobPC>

Frank........... if you go to the Spal web site http://www.spalusa.com 
you'll find that they carry a line of low profile fans. When you navigate to 
a specific fan, you'll find a link to a pdf file with all the fans 
dimensions & specs. There's a couple of 14" ones that are a tad over 2" 
thick.  Their medium profile fans look to be in the 2.5" range.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Frank Fisher
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2011 4:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3's, electric fans and fan shrouds

here in California's desert i suffer over heating during stop and go traffic 
in
the summer. driving has always been fine.
i have been running an old, unknown CFM, 10" electric fan.
i bought a nice big 14" spal 1720cfm electric fan. made a great mounting 
bracket
on the old beat up radiator. but, whoops the fan is too fat in the middle 
(like
me) and interferes with the tube that bolts across the strut towers. 3 3/8" 
fan
height Vs 3" tube to radiator distance. DOH!
so lots of questions:
has any one found a high volume 13" fan that fits?
has anyone ever fabricated a shroud for their fan?
seems to me that shrouding off 50% of the radiator kinda kills the idea. i 
know
all of the fan area's air is forced thought the fan hole in the shroud at
driving speed, but there is probably an empirical balance point between free
area and shrouded area.
any one played with this?
thanks
Frank



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Tue Feb 15 17:28:48 2011
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (HANS DEFERRANTE)
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 16:28:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3's, electric fans and fan shrouds
In-Reply-To: <132419.55911.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <132419.55911.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5D3F99D7-1A2B-4790-994A-258B70AF9FEF@roadrunner.com>

Frank,
I had excellent results with a fan I got from Pep Boys for $69.00 for  
my TR3A. The shroud comes with it. Mounts in front of radiator.  If  
you are interested, I,ll dig up details and photos.
Hans


On Feb 15, 2011, at 1:03 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:

> here in California's desert i suffer over heating during stop and  
> go traffic in
> the summer. driving has always been fine.
> i have been running an old, unknown CFM, 10" electric fan.
> i bought a nice big 14" spal 1720cfm electric fan. made a great  
> mounting bracket
> on the old beat up radiator. but, whoops the fan is too fat in the  
> middle (like
> me) and interferes with the tube that bolts across the strut  
> towers. 3 3/8" fan
> height Vs 3" tube to radiator distance. DOH!
> so lots of questions:
> has any one found a high volume 13" fan that fits?
> has anyone ever fabricated a shroud for their fan?
> seems to me that shrouding off 50% of the radiator kinda kills the  
> idea. i know
> all of the fan area's air is forced thought the fan hole in the  
> shroud at
> driving speed, but there is probably an empirical balance point  
> between free
> area and shrouded area.
> any one played with this?
> thanks
> Frank
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ 
> tr3 at roadrunner.com
>


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 15 18:50:34 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 17:50:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3's, electric fans and fan shrouds
In-Reply-To: <132419.55911.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <132419.55911.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <046501cbcd7b$e740db90$b5c292b0$@rr.com>


I don't recall the size for certain, but the Hayden fan that I got at Pep
Boys many years ago matches the radiator, fits easily in front of the cross
tube, and provides more than adequate cooling for stop-n-go traffic even at
115F.

http://tinyurl.com/4vqlje5

I've never seen the need for more shroud than it came with, except of course
for the piece that covers the gap between the radiator and front apron/inner
fenders.

But FWIW, I had an Audi with an interesting arrangement for the fan.  The
back of the radiator was enclosed in a sheet metal box, with the fan mounted
in an opening that matched the fan blades.  The remainder of the back of the
box was covered with flaps that acted like check valves for air flow.  They
would close off the holes if the fan tried to suck air in through them, but
allow excess pressure to flow out (ie when the car was moving fast enough
that the incoming air was more than the fan would pass).  If you really
needed the ultimate in cooling, something like that might help.

Another mod that I think would work very well (but haven't tried yet) is a
simple deflector underneath the radiator, to block part of the air flow and
lower the pressure behind the radiator.  I believe it was Geo Hahn that said
he uses one made from thin plywood.

Also FWIW, the goal should be for the movement of the car through the air to
provide sufficient cooling at higher speeds (say above 30 mph).  No
reasonable sized fan moves enough air to cool the full 100+ bhp of a TR
motor.  So if your cooling problems are at higher speeds, then you need to
look elsewhere besides the fan (unless perhaps the fan is impeding the
airflow at higher speeds).

-- Randall 


From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Tue Feb 15 19:11:54 2011
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 02:11:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Rotor Groove
Message-ID: <963644377.960032.1297822314510.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I've been meaning to ask this question since last fall, but thought it was a good time to get around to it now that the thaw is starting here in PA.  I developed a grove in the right front brake rotor of my '70 TR6 two summers ago. I noticed it on the way up to Watkins Glen but nothing detering continued driving. This was on the inside face of the rotor. At Carlisle, I picked up 2 new rotors and proceeded to replace both rotors and brake pads. Well, when I put the 6 down for its winter rest this year, I noticed the same grove, but not as large, on the same spot of the right rotor! I have heard that you can get a bad/defective brake pad that develops a bump that will wear such a grove in a rotor, but to have it happen twice?  

Any other thoughts on what could be causing this or do I just play the odds, get a new rotor and replace the brake pad (I am not doing both sides this time)?  TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3A

From dlylis at gmail.com  Tue Feb 15 19:42:59 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 02:42:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3's, electric fans and fan shrouds
In-Reply-To: <046501cbcd7b$e740db90$b5c292b0$@rr.com>
References: <132419.55911.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><046501cbcd7b$e740db90$b5c292b0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1927878234-1297824179-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-558497383-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have a hayden 12 inch pusher fan on my TR3A and I do not even attach it to the radiator. I just distort the plastic fan housing, place it against the core and release and it snaps in the little space between the core and the radiator frame. Has stayed very well put for three years or so. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 17:50:34 
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's, electric fans and fan shrouds


I don't recall the size for certain, but the Hayden fan that I got at Pep
Boys many years ago matches the radiator, fits easily in front of the cross
tube, and provides more than adequate cooling for stop-n-go traffic even at
115F.

http://tinyurl.com/4vqlje5

I've never seen the need for more shroud than it came with, except of course
for the piece that covers the gap between the radiator and front apron/inner
fenders.

But FWIW, I had an Audi with an interesting arrangement for the fan.  The
back of the radiator was enclosed in a sheet metal box, with the fan mounted
in an opening that matched the fan blades.  The remainder of the back of the
box was covered with flaps that acted like check valves for air flow.  They
would close off the holes if the fan tried to suck air in through them, but
allow excess pressure to flow out (ie when the car was moving fast enough
that the incoming air was more than the fan would pass).  If you really
needed the ultimate in cooling, something like that might help.

Another mod that I think would work very well (but haven't tried yet) is a
simple deflector underneath the radiator, to block part of the air flow and
lower the pressure behind the radiator.  I believe it was Geo Hahn that said
he uses one made from thin plywood.

Also FWIW, the goal should be for the movement of the car through the air to
provide sufficient cooling at higher speeds (say above 30 mph).  No
reasonable sized fan moves enough air to cool the full 100+ bhp of a TR
motor.  So if your cooling problems are at higher speeds, then you need to
look elsewhere besides the fan (unless perhaps the fan is impeding the
airflow at higher speeds).

-- Randall 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 15 19:44:05 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:44:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Rotor Groove
In-Reply-To: <963644377.960032.1297822314510.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <963644377.960032.1297822314510.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <047501cbcd83$61445870$23cd0950$@rr.com>

Just a thought, have you checked the clearance between the rotor and the
caliper on the inside face?  I don't know if it is true of the TR6, but on
the TR3 the factory used shims to center the caliper over the rotor.  The
shims are a PITA to replace and so many people leave them out.  The result
is that the caliper sits too far outboard by some amount.  Usually not
enough to cause a problem, but maybe yours are close enough to rub, only
when the bracket deflects under hard braking or something?  Hard cornering
can also move the rotor relative to the caliper (play in the bearings plus
deflection of the spindle).

-- Randall 


From diggle at clear.net.nz  Wed Feb 16 01:02:12 2011
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim Vassiliadis)
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 21:02:12 +1300
Subject: [TR] Operating temp
Message-ID: <34B1C48335914A84A799CB7E9791454A@athlon>



To recap I have installed a recored radiator and thermatically operated
electric fan.
I have always assumed that normal operating temp for the water is 185
degrees F or halfway along the gauge.
So I have set the fan to come on at the next mark half way between 185 and
250 on my gauge.
Does anyone know what temp that mark corresponds to and what temp should the
fan be set to come on at.

Jim and the 1962 TR4


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 16 06:23:00 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 05:23:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] Operating temp
In-Reply-To: <34B1C48335914A84A799CB7E9791454A@athlon>
References: <34B1C48335914A84A799CB7E9791454A@athlon>
Message-ID: <0a3e01cbcddc$a2a5b8a0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have always assumed that normal operating temp for the water is 185
> degrees F or halfway along the gauge.

Depends on a lot of things, including what thermostat you've installed.
Where does yours ride when driving at speed in moderate weather?

> Does anyone know what temp that mark corresponds to and what 
> temp should the
> fan be set to come on at.

On my early TR4 gauge (mounted in a TR3), the mark is just about 220F.  My
preference would be for the fan to come on slightly before that point, say
210F.  That way it will still come on before the coolant boils, even if the
system won't hold pressure for some reason.

-- Randall  


From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Wed Feb 16 07:45:51 2011
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 09:45:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Miata Seats in a TR6
Message-ID: <4bbda.40f211ac.3a8d3d1f@aol.com>

Sorry to bother the list, but a friend wants to install Miata seats in his 
TR6 and I don't have Joe Alexander's email address.   Can you contact me, 
Joe?
TIA,
George Haynes

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb 16 08:39:38 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 10:39:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Miata Seats in a TR6
In-Reply-To: <4bbda.40f211ac.3a8d3d1f@aol.com>
References: <4bbda.40f211ac.3a8d3d1f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E9B29E0C24274C87BF954DD8682E6407@BobPC>

Joe's email is n197tr4 AT cs DOT com

Change the AT to @ and the DOT to .

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 9:45 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Miata Seats in a TR6

Sorry to bother the list, but a friend wants to install Miata seats in his
TR6 and I don't have Joe Alexander's email address.   Can you contact me,
Joe?
TIA,
George Haynes
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Wed Feb 16 13:09:04 2011
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 15:09:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Operating temp
Message-ID: <4d5c2ee0.1bf.47b1.10184@cogeco.ca>


>
> To recap I have installed a recored radiator and thermatically operated
> electric fan.

I have a hadyen pusher fan that I installed after I had my rad recored as well (I think I specified too dence a core for
the 4 blade fan to cope with).  I've mounted it up high on the rad (with those little plastic clips).  Not only does it
minimise it's visibility that way I think it improves the airflow even when it's not "on" as the normal air flow that
hits the bottom half of the fan causes the fan to spin and I think that draws air thru the upper part of the rad which
normally doesn't get air.

> I have always assumed that normal operating temp for the water is 185
> degrees F or halfway along the gauge.

I think you're correct, on a normal day with a new 180f thermostat that's where the gauge sites.

> Does anyone know what temp that mark corresponds to and what temp should the
> fan be set to come on at.
>

I initially had a manual switch under the dash, but later I bought a therm switch and what I did to calibrate it was let
the car idle with the fan off and let the temp get to what I considered to be above normal but not yet "hot" (say 2/3rds
to the right) then turned then adjusted the switch until the fan shut it self off when the gauge settled back down to
the centre.  Then I stood back and made sure that cycle repeated itself on it's own and that the fan was off most of the
time and only came on when needed.   I'm not really sure what temperature that equates to but it seems to do the trick
as the fan draws the temp down very quickly and is only on when the car's in traffic.

From rolds at plausa.com  Wed Feb 16 17:45:25 2011
From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds)
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2011 00:45:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] [Shop-talk] Drafting Program
In-Reply-To: <4D588AA4.7030103@earthlink.net>
References: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E505E3D1@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
	<4D588AA4.7030103@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E507499B@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>

I would like to thank everyone for their input on my problem.  I ended up installing Virtual XP which will solve my problem.  I can now run the program and open my old drawings.  I also installed CadStd which looks like a good program, basic but gives me what I want.  Some of the other programs recommended to me were either not Windows 7 compatible or not free as suggested.  If anyone has any old programs which will not run on the newer Windows I would recommend the Virtual XP.  It is a free way to use old software instead of buying upgrades or in my case where there was no alternative.

Ronald Olds
Sales Manager
Plasser American Corporation
PO Box 5464
2001 Myers Road
Chesapeake, VA 23324-0464
?
Phone? (757) 543-3526
Cell????? (630) 240-0818
Fax???? ?(757) 494-7186?
?
The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may be proprietary, privileged or confidential and is intended solely for the use of the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or any other such use is strictly prohibited.?Furthermore, any reviews, semination or copying by anyone other than the intended recipient is expressly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender and destroy all copies of the original transmittal.

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Kemp [mailto:bk13 at earthlink.net] 
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2011 8:52 PM
To: Ron Olds
Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net; Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net); mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drafting Program

Ronald - Did you try the program on the new computer? I use several programs from XP that are not listed as Windows 7 compatible on my new Win 7 Home Premium 64 computer. One has no issues at all. Fireworks MX
2004 switches the screen display to eliminate all the fancy screen stuff, but everything goes back once I close the program. Dreamweaver MX
2004 works fine for everything I do at home. At work, I can't use it because it has to be run as an administrator and looses network drives.

My recommendation it to give the current program a test and see if it still works.

Brian

On 2/11/2011 6:53 AM, Ron Olds wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
>
> Back in my previous versions of Windows I used the Auto Sketch 
> drafting program which worked great for me.  Now that I have had to 
> update to Windows 7 I can no longer use this program.  I am looking 
> for something new that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.  Anyone have any suggestions?
>
> Ronald Olds
>
> The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may 
> be proprietary, privileged or confidential and is intended solely for 
> the use of the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or 
> any other such use is strictly prohibited. Furthermore, any reviews, 
> semination or copying by anyone other than the intended recipient is 
> expressly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, 
> please notify the sender and destroy all copies of the original transmittal.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net
>
>


From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed Feb 16 18:44:13 2011
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 19:44:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] "Total Triumph" issue of Practical Classics, February 2011
Message-ID: <AANLkTikUH9w4sqpdSZsXrRhZrSizLifHrFZ+eJ8Wp4ib@mail.gmail.com>

The February 2011 issue of the UK publication Practical Classics has
an 11-Triumph road trip, and a lot of info from TS2 through TR8.  A
good read, if you haven't seen it yet.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Feb 17 12:03:31 2011
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2011 19:03:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] Help in Palm Springs (non TR related).
Message-ID: <BLU162-w1065DC435CFC26910CCC43E5D50@phx.gbl>


Hi Listees,

As IO recover from my stroke I have seized upon the idea of purchasing a car I have lusted after since I was 9 years old.  I have found on going to auction in Palm Springs, Ca. a week from now.  Unfortunately, in my current condition, I cannot make the trip to Palm Springs. 

Is there someone on this list in the Palm Springs area who would be willing to take a look at this vehicle and give me their opinion of it's condition?

Best regards,
Tom

 		 	   		  

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Feb 17 13:01:11 2011
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2011 12:01:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] "Total Triumph" issue of Practical Classics, February 2011
Message-ID: <468061.85406.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Where can you get a copy of Practical Classics? Is it carried at any US bookstore or LBCarco?

     Bill in Tehachapi


Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 19:44:13 -0600
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Subject: [TR] "Total Triumph" issue of Practical Classics, February
    2011
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID:
    <AANLkTikUH9w4sqpdSZsXrRhZrSizLifHrFZ+eJ8Wp4ib at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

The February 2011 issue of the UK publication Practical Classics has
an 11-Triumph road trip, and a lot of info from TS2 through TR8.  A
good read, if you haven't seen it yet.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

From peter at nosimport.com  Thu Feb 17 14:55:17 2011
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2011 15:55:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] "Total Triumph" issue of Practical Classics, February  2011
In-Reply-To: <468061.85406.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <468061.85406.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201102171355800.SM04720@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Borders.... oooops

------
At 02:01 PM 2/17/2011, William Brewer wrote:
>      Where can you get a copy of Practical Classics? Is it carried 
> at any US bookstore or LBCarco?
>
>      Bill in Tehachapi
>
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 19:44:13 -0600
>From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
>Subject: [TR] "Total Triumph" issue of Practical Classics, February
>     2011
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Message-ID:
>     <AANLkTikUH9w4sqpdSZsXrRhZrSizLifHrFZ+eJ8Wp4ib at mail.gmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
>The February 2011 issue of the UK publication Practical Classics has
>an 11-Triumph road trip, and a lot of info from TS2 through TR8.  A
>good read, if you haven't seen it yet.
>
>Don
>1962 TR3B TSF202L


From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Feb 17 17:07:53 2011
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2011 18:07:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] "Total Triumph" issue of Practical Classics, February  2011
In-Reply-To: <201102171355800.SM04720@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <468061.85406.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>,
	<201102171355800.SM04720@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W143673D38B144BD4696E7CE1D40@phx.gbl>


I think I've seen it at Barns and Noble incase the Borders near you has already closed.

Rich White Central, IL USA 
'63 TR3B TCF###L 
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! 



 
> Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2011 15:55:17 -0600
> To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net; don.hiscock at gmail.com
> From: peter at nosimport.com
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] "Total Triumph" issue of Practical Classics, February 2011
> 
> Borders.... oooops
> 
> ------
> At 02:01 PM 2/17/2011, William Brewer wrote:
> > Where can you get a copy of Practical Classics? Is it carried 
> > at any US bookstore or LBCarco?
> >
> > Bill in Tehachapi
> >
> >
> >Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 19:44:13 -0600
> >From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
> >Subject: [TR] "Total Triumph" issue of Practical Classics, February
> > 2011
> >To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> >Message-ID:
> > <AANLkTikUH9w4sqpdSZsXrRhZrSizLifHrFZ+eJ8Wp4ib at mail.gmail.com>
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> >
> >The February 2011 issue of the UK publication Practical Classics has
> >an 11-Triumph road trip, and a lot of info from TS2 through TR8. A
> >good read, if you haven't seen it yet.
> >
> >Don
> >1962 TR3B TSF202L
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
> 
 		 	   		  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 17 17:44:59 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2011 16:44:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] "Total Triumph" issue of Practical Classics, February  2011
In-Reply-To: <201102171355800.SM04720@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <468061.85406.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<201102171355800.SM04720@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <069701cbcf05$12aa06f0$37fe14d0$@rr.com>

> Borders.... oooops

FWIW, Article in today's local paper said they are only closing some stores;
most are staying open even though they are in Chapter 11.  They apparently
only closed the unprofitable stores.

-- Randall 


From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com  Fri Feb 18 06:18:57 2011
From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter)
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2011 08:18:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Front suspension replacement early vs late commission #'s
Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425272E4300BB@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>

My to be rolling chassis commission # is CT26535, I plan on using parts from a commission # CT5908 for the front end suspension .
 I intended on rebuilding the entire front suspension using parts exclusively from the Ct5908 commission car.

Q1: Will there be any problem mating up assembled front suspension to the later commission chassis?
Q2: When ordering replacement parts, I presume I should order them based upon the earlier commission #?
Q3:   Could I utilize (If I was consistent ) utilize the replacement parts for the later commission #? (ie ball joints and control arms)

Thank you

Peter
551.427.1178




From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Fri Feb 18 11:06:32 2011
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2011 12:06:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Front suspension replacement early vs late commission
 #'s
In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425272E4300BB@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425272E4300BB@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w15D5BE386F310AAB2F1CD6B9D40@phx.gbl>


Peter-
 
Just my opinion, but since you are working with a later commission number I would rebuild using the later style suspension components as well.  This would gain you a suspension with 3 degress of castor which will be an improvement.  Also, the later frame is meant to use the later steering rack, so you would have no unforeseen issues in marrying a later steering rack with the later suspension.
 
You didn't say what parts you need, but if you are replacing lower trunnions anyway then going with the later style is not that difficult.  The verticle links, spring pan, lower control arms are identical.  You would need later style upper control arms, but they are very common since they were used through the TR6.  To be safe, you may want to source steering arms for the appropriate commission number - slightly more time consuming but they are also available pretty easily in my opinon.
 
Regards,
Randy
64 TR4
59 TR3A in restoration

 > My to be rolling chassis commission # is CT26535, I plan on using parts from a commission # CT5908 for the front end suspension .
> I intended on rebuilding the entire front suspension using parts exclusively from the Ct5908 commission car.
> 
> Q1: Will there be any problem mating up assembled front suspension to the later commission chassis?
> Q2: When ordering replacement parts, I presume I should order them based upon the earlier commission #?
> Q3: Could I utilize (If I was consistent ) utilize the replacement parts for the later commission #? (ie ball joints and control arms)
 		 	   		  

From mike at newharts.com  Fri Feb 18 15:19:21 2011
From: mike at newharts.com (Mike Newhart)
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2011 17:19:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] One foot backwards, one jerk forwards
Message-ID: <AANLkTin0QR2Y+G-+XcxiANeJsqx6P7JOp_CsdmeCi5xW@mail.gmail.com>

Upon backing my TR3A out of the garage this afternoon, it would jerk
forwards slightly for about every foot it went backwards.  Any ideas of what
the problem could be?  No overdrive.  Thanks
Mike Newhart.  Mike at newharts.com

From L1J1S at aol.com  Fri Feb 18 15:41:54 2011
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2011 17:41:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR tr4 4-a 250 hood wtd.
Message-ID: <2da07.60727d46.3a904fb2@aol.com>

list, i am looking for a tr4, tr4-a or tr250 hood. the overall condition is 
 not so important because i want the bubble (tear drop) off the hood.   
cheers, larry schwartz

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Fri Feb 18 15:52:12 2011
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg  Gelhar)
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2011 16:52:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] One foot backwards, one jerk forwards
References: <AANLkTin0QR2Y+G-+XcxiANeJsqx6P7JOp_CsdmeCi5xW@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002901cbcfbe$81d50bb0$0a01a8c0@triumph>

Mike,

If the prop shaft universal joints were very stiff (or worse) you might 
experience that sort of action.

Greg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Newhart" <mike at newharts.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2011 4:19 PM
Subject: [TR] One foot backwards, one jerk forwards


> Upon backing my TR3A out of the garage this afternoon, it would jerk
> forwards slightly for about every foot it went backwards.  Any ideas of 
> what
> the problem could be?  No overdrive.  Thanks
> Mike Newhart.  Mike at newharts.com
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ggelhar at earthlink.net
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3451 - Release Date: 02/18/11
> 


From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Feb 18 18:34:23 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2011 17:34:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] brake lines
Message-ID: <55957.31582.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I'm finding i didn't make enough notations when removing my brake lines from the 
frame long ago (tr-3) and can't figure out how the front is arranged.  I  have 
the old lines but still find it difficult.  At present i'm laying the old lines 
out and trying to make connections so I can then move on and bend the new lines 
appropriately.

my problem is with the 5 way connector at the front.  It has the brake light 
switch (screw-on) on one side as well as the restrictor valve sticking straight 
up on top.  


-does the master cylinder line connect to the resister valve coming straight 
down from the top?
-does the 5 way connection slide on a clip thats welded to the frame rail  very 
close to the diagonal brace that goes from spring tower to frame?
-there seems to be only one way it sits on the frame with the brake light switch 
laying toward the outside of the frame?
-the way i'm finding it fits best makes it almost impossible to connect the 
other front brake lines appropriately.
-i have a banjo fitting on a piece of steel brake line which is attached to a 
rubber brake line and the whole thing is maybe 2 feet long.  cannot figure out 
where it goes.


Sorry as I know I'm describing this problem in a very confusing way!  I"m hoping 
maybe someone has just been through this recently and can give some suggestions.

p.s.  I'm finding that even though I thought I was writing things down and 
labeling............I didn't do it well enough.  When taking a car apart its so 
easy to think "i'll remember that.....this goes here obviously and that goes 
there"   LOL   NOT.   lol  what seemed to be just "common sense" and "easily 
remembered" at the time of removal.............2 yrs later become foreign 
objects that have no relationship to a triumph!



      

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 18 20:24:29 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2011 19:24:29 -0800
Subject: [TR] brake lines
In-Reply-To: <55957.31582.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <55957.31582.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0d5701cbcfe4$856716d0$0301a8c0@randall>

> -does the master cylinder line connect to the resister valve 
> coming straight down from the top?

Yes.

> -does the 5 way connection slide on a clip thats welded to 
> the frame rail

I don't know if it changed later on, but my earlier TR3A had it bolted to a
tab that was welded to the main frame rail.

Here's a photo that might help.
http://tinyurl.com/5uvlx9o

Here's another view (of a different car) from under the fender looking in:
http://tinyurl.com/464st5c

> -i have a banjo fitting on a piece of steel brake line which 

That sounds like a piece from an earlier car, with Lockheed (front drum)
brakes.  The Girling system didn't use banjo fittings.

-- Randall  


From dlylis at gmail.com  Sat Feb 19 04:55:41 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 11:55:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] One foot backwards, one jerk forwards
Message-ID: <612459247-1298116542-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-84156381-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Interesting subject. That's how my wife describes our wedding day. 
------Original Message------
From: Mike Newhart
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] One foot backwards, one jerk forwards
Sent: Feb 18, 2011 5:19 PM

Upon backing my TR3A out of the garage this afternoon, it would jerk
forwards slightly for about every foot it went backwards.  Any ideas of what
the problem could be?  No overdrive.  Thanks
Mike Newhart.  Mike at newharts.com
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat Feb 19 07:18:51 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 08:18:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR_tr4_4-a_250_hood_wtd=2E?=
Message-ID: <20110219141833.6D44118763E@autox.team.net>

You can buy those bubbles at a variety of hotrodding suppliers. Just FYI. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: L1J1S at aol.com
Date: Fri, Feb 18, 2011 16:41
Subject: [TR] TR tr4 4-a 250 hood wtd.
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

list, i am looking for a tr4, tr4-a or tr250 hood. the overall condition is 
 not so important because i want the bubble (tear drop) off the hood.   
cheers, larry schwartz
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Feb 19 08:59:02 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 10:59:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAOR/I8YF/65Fk3ZcFb3vB38BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

A question for the collective wisdom of the list -

I am ready to buy a luggage rack for my TR3 project.   I have decided on the
type that attaches to the hinges rather than drilling holes.  The only
question is whether there is an advantage between stainless steel and chrome
(cost is the same).

Any and all comments or recommendations are welcomed.  

Thanks
Carl
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida




From trglory at verizon.net  Sat Feb 19 10:24:04 2011
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 12:24:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3a hood stick cover
Message-ID: <004601cbd059$d022f610$7068e230$@net>

I finally got around to fitting the hood stick cover to my TR3a yesterday.
Careful measurements insured a crisp fit and the pull-on corners fit like a
glove. The TRF cover has two lift-a-dot fasteners preinstalled at the inside
corners and I'm not quite sure where the pegs need to be placed. I have
never paid attention to the cover on other cars and don't see anything in
the books, so I have no clue. If someone can send me a picture off-list or
some reference dimensions, it would be greatly appreciated.

Joe Laurito




From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Feb 19 13:06:37 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 13:06:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAOR/I8YF/65Fk3ZcFb3vB38BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAOR/I8YF/65Fk3ZcFb3vB38BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <8E7D29CEC8EB4063855A6227060A9F7C@bboffice>

Carl,

IMHO: If your not going for concours originality and the price is the same I
would go with the stainless.  Longer lasting and no interior rust as time
goes by, the only trade-off in my mind would be that it is probably not as
shiny as the chrome.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2011 8:59 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel

A question for the collective wisdom of the list -

I am ready to buy a luggage rack for my TR3 project.   I have decided on the
type that attaches to the hinges rather than drilling holes.  The only
question is whether there is an advantage between stainless steel and chrome
(cost is the same).

Any and all comments or recommendations are welcomed.  

Thanks
Carl
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Feb 19 13:27:54 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 14:27:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] stag question
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAOR/I8YF/65Fk3ZcFb3vB38BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAOR/I8YF/65Fk3ZcFb3vB38BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <EDBDAA1622A54CDF8F5EF42B672E890F@ranteer.local>

?I think it may be off topic or for a very few listers; my apologies.

2 questions

1.  where are the id plates on a stag
2. what are the differences between a 72 and a 73?

thanks!

From carlsereda at aol.com  Sat Feb 19 13:49:25 2011
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 12:49:25 -0800
Subject: [TR] jerk footing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1298142002.16644.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ABF37954.0586.4F08.B375.C15BF35953A7@aol.com>

rear brake shoes sticking?

On Feb 19, 2011, at 11:00:02 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

Upon backing my TR3A out of the garage this afternoon, it would jerk
forwards slightly for about every foot it went backwards. Any ideas of what
the problem could be??


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Sat Feb 19 14:17:43 2011
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 16:17:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] stag question
In-Reply-To: <EDBDAA1622A54CDF8F5EF42B672E890F@ranteer.local>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAOR/I8YF/65Fk3ZcFb3vB38BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
	<EDBDAA1622A54CDF8F5EF42B672E890F@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <000a01cbd07a$733546d0$599fd470$@com>

Do a google search for 
Stag owner club
There are many sources for Stag information.


Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new
owner
"Reality, it's not what you think."




From etd at psu.edu  Sat Feb 19 14:21:22 2011
From: etd at psu.edu (Edward Dressler)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 16:21:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 wheel studs
Message-ID: <4D603452.2080101@psu.edu>

Any one have experience replacing the rear wheel studs on a TR4?  The 
rear ones screw out of the axle flange but are peened in place to 
prevent them from coming undone.  Don't want to have to remove the axles 
to do this.
Ed Dressler

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Sat Feb 19 15:24:34 2011
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 17:24:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 wheel studs
In-Reply-To: <4D603452.2080101@psu.edu>
References: <4D603452.2080101@psu.edu>
Message-ID: <AANLkTineLP1VYzH2V7ZyKyDvjUHNNVExV5N+=sHYhC6z@mail.gmail.com>

Ed,

You will most definitely have to remove the axles.  There is no other
way to grind the backside of the wheel studs.  The studs were screwed
in at the factory and then peened over.  I went through this same
exercise last winter.  Very frustrating and time consuming.  Once you
have ground the backside that was peened then you unscrew the old ones
and then screw in the new ones.  The hard part is you now have to peen
over the new stud so that it won't unscrew.

Pain in the royal backside to do this.

Oh yeah, you also have to pull the hub from the axle to do the work.

Been there, done that.

Brad


On Sat, Feb 19, 2011 at 4:21 PM, Edward Dressler <etd at psu.edu> wrote:
> Any one have experience replacing the rear wheel studs on a TR4? ?The rear
> ones screw out of the axle flange but are peened in place to prevent them
> from coming undone. ?Don't want to have to remove the axles to do this.
> Ed Dressler
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation ?$11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com
>
>

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sat Feb 19 15:36:12 2011
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 17:36:12 EST
Subject: [TR] stag question
Message-ID: <146b0.4d951411.3a919fdc@aol.com>

Hi Dave;
 
I'm afraid I don't know where the ID plates are on a Stag because I don't  
own one anymore and can't remember. I have owned three of them previously,  
though, so I think I can give most of the differences between a '72 and '73, 
 most of them were cosmetic:
>From '73:
Twin stick-on side stripes along the waistline of the vehicle form front to 
 back, usually in black.
Alloy wheels were an option in the UK and Europe but I think standard in  
North America. They are the same in appearance (though not completely 
identical)  to the 1980 MGB limited edition wheels.
More modern looking instruments, but the dash was the same.
Smaller steering wheel.
No quarter windows in the soft top, you got a big blind spot instead!
I think overdrive was made standard on manual gearbox models (at least in  
the UK and Europe).
Front spoiler fitted, but maybe not for NA models.
There may have been some other cosmetic changes, but can't remember.
Mechanically, I don't think there were any, although various small changes  
came in from time to time until production ended in I think 1977. One of 
those  changes was to make the radiator thinner and less capable... silly 
thing to do  on a Stag!
 
If I think of anything else, I'll let you know.
 
Tim (in Ontario). 
Owned 2 Stags in the USA and 1 in the UK. Now with TR3A.
 

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Feb 19 17:21:40 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 00:21:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] stag question
In-Reply-To: <160764753.1226973.1298160979494.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <83639214.1227143.1298161300980.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

-- Original Message -----

> From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2011 2:27:54 PM
> Subject: [TR] stag question
> 
> ?I think it may be off topic or for a very few listers; my apologies.
> 
> 2 questions
> 
> 1.  where are the id plates on a stag

Mine is on the front of the B pillar.

> 2. what are the differences between a 72 and a 73?

Don't know them all.  This is the break between the MK I and MK II.  Mine is a MK II.  Later door latches, coachline painted on the side, no quarter windows in the soft top.

Send mail to 
stag-digest at digest.net
It may bounce, but it should give you info on how to subscribe.

I believe that Glenn Merrell and Joe Pawlak are the USA experts in Stag cars.  I'm biased, of course, since they had so much to do with my Stag.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

> thanks!

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Sat Feb 19 19:18:51 2011
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Cury)
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2011 19:18:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW: Tr3 clutch slave cylinder seal replacment
Message-ID: <ADADB9FDA93542D1B723118CF57F204D@mediacenter>

So I am replacing all of the seal in the master and slave cylinders for my
brakes and clutch.  No problem with the MC, but the slave cylinders leave me
with some questions:

1. What is the package of grease that comes with the seals for?  I didn't
get one with my master cylinder kits.  I did read to douse everything in
brake fluid
2. Is it ok to use Dot 3 now that I have all new seals, or will it eat them?

Thanks,
Jeremiah



From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Feb 19 23:59:20 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 06:59:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] FW: Tr3 clutch slave cylinder seal replacment
In-Reply-To: <ADADB9FDA93542D1B723118CF57F204D@mediacenter>
Message-ID: <564196662.1235772.1298185160043.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> 2. Is it ok to use Dot 3 now that I have all new seals, or will it eat
> them?

I'd use Castrol GT/LMA.



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sun Feb 20 07:04:41 2011
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 09:04:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3a hood stick cover
References: <004601cbd059$d022f610$7068e230$@net>
Message-ID: <5772FEE3BD5A47CDAC22AAF706E3789F@DCS78M81>

Joe, the lift a dot pegs go on the rolled side panels just in front of the 
rolled panel that covers the edge of the body in front of the gas cap. 
Those pegs are the ones with the 10X32 nuts on the backs. The holes are 
probably already in the metal. It's a fair amount of work to unassemble the 
upholstery and install the pegs.
Alternatively, someone recently wrote that the pegs could be installed on 
the top bows - much easier and should work just as well. I know that on one 
of my 3's the installed pegs are a little farther apart than the snaps --  
making for a very tight fit.  I did grab the pegs and pull them farther from 
the body and that helped some. I could send pictures if you need them.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Laurito" <trglory at verizon.net>
To: "Triumphs List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "VTR List" 
<owner-vtr at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2011 12:24 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3a hood stick cover


>I finally got around to fitting the hood stick cover to my TR3a yesterday.
> Careful measurements insured a crisp fit and the pull-on corners fit like 
> a
> glove. The TRF cover has two lift-a-dot fasteners preinstalled at the 
> inside
> corners and I'm not quite sure where the pegs need to be placed. I have
> never paid attention to the cover on other cars and don't see anything in
> the books, so I have no clue. If someone can send me a picture off-list or
> some reference dimensions, it would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Joe Laurito



From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Feb 20 11:10:25 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 11:10:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAOR/I8YF/65Fk3ZcFb3vB38BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAOR/I8YF/65Fk3ZcFb3vB38BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinRiFw0PxTuUe5W5YOu=ZXYEhAuQ0H_Xfw-zoDA@mail.gmail.com>

On 2/19/11, Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:
> A question for the collective wisdom of the list -
>
> I am ready to buy a luggage rack for my TR3 project...

I use that rack in chrome -- my opinion is that the chrome looks
better and since the rack doesn't lead a very hard life (only when
luggage is hauled, almost always fair weather, keep it waxed)
corrosion is not a problem.

In particular if you plan to remove it when you don't need it (that is
the beauty of this design) then either ss or chrome should provide a
lifetime finish.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Feb 20 11:16:32 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 11:16:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW: Tr3 clutch slave cylinder seal replacment
In-Reply-To: <ADADB9FDA93542D1B723118CF57F204D@mediacenter>
References: <ADADB9FDA93542D1B723118CF57F204D@mediacenter>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimwUrr-daVfkyCWXM1H-k0SomQyVGM0x3Dio1qO@mail.gmail.com>

On 2/19/11, Jeremiah Cury <jeremiah at curryclan.net> wrote:
> 1. What is the package of grease that comes with the seals for?

I believe the cachet of red snot is a brake-fluid compatible grease
that can be used to ease assembly of some parts.  Only time I recall
using it was when fitting the piston boots on the calipers.  Usually
(as you note) straight brake fluid gets the job done fine.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Feb 20 11:21:22 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 11:21:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3a hood stick cover
In-Reply-To: <004601cbd059$d022f610$7068e230$@net>
References: <004601cbd059$d022f610$7068e230$@net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimBs10etcd7QSLBCLAqoFqR-WQaOhHBMXLzwOG3@mail.gmail.com>

On 2/19/11, Joe Laurito <trglory at verizon.net> wrote:
> ... If someone can send me a picture...

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%201.JPG

Geo

PS:  Re my post on brakes -- I meant 'sachet', not 'cachet' so pardon my French.

From popnglo at gmail.com  Sun Feb 20 17:08:44 2011
From: popnglo at gmail.com (Ed Poplawski)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 19:08:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] test
Message-ID: <AANLkTimkkS46705+gU7PX+KbpmE7cA-FzC=1zEz3yCyr@mail.gmail.com>

test

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Feb 20 17:48:37 2011
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 18:48:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] test
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimkkS46705+gU7PX+KbpmE7cA-FzC=1zEz3yCyr@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimkkS46705+gU7PX+KbpmE7cA-FzC=1zEz3yCyr@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W39D5100F0F18B236D6C768E1D90@phx.gbl>


And I forgot to study!!!

Rich White Central, IL USA 
'63 TR3B TCF###L 
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! 



 
> Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 19:08:44 -0500
> From: popnglo at gmail.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] test
> 
> test
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
> 
 		 	   		  

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Feb 20 17:52:12 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 19:52:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?test?=
Message-ID: <20110221005156.B1E55187661@autox.team.net>

Test failure mode 3754347.9779.876




----- Reply message -----
From: "Ed Poplawski" <popnglo at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, Feb 20, 2011 19:08
Subject: [TR] test
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

test
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net


From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun Feb 20 18:21:22 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 20:21:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Accelerator shaft removal
Message-ID: <04460B06D2844A4E8CD7060B216966A0@TRGUY>

How do I remove the accelerator shaft completely from a TR4?  I have all of the bolts and screws out, but it is hung up on the bushing on the driver side.  Can I remove the bushing without damaging?  The repair manual wasn't much help and I don't want to break anything.  
Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Feb 20 19:01:53 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 21:01:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Accelerator shaft removal
In-Reply-To: <04460B06D2844A4E8CD7060B216966A0@TRGUY>
References: <04460B06D2844A4E8CD7060B216966A0@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <201102202101.54461.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, February 20, 2011 08:21:22 pm James Henningsen wrote:
> How do I remove the accelerator shaft completely from a TR4?  I have all of
> the bolts and screws out, but it is hung up on the bushing on the driver
> side.  Can I remove the bushing without damaging?  The repair manual
> wasn't much help and I don't want to break anything. Thanks in advance,
> Jim Henningsen
> Maitland, FL
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6
>
Jim,

The shaft comes apart by removing the split pins in the shaft. You will need a 
very thin punch to get them out. Once you remove the pins you should be able 
to pull the shaft parts through the bushings.

There should be 2 split pins, one that connects the lever that connects to the 
carb linkage and one on the drivers side that connects the metal petal bush to 
the shaft.

If the pins are damaged, you can get new ones at TRF.

There is a diagram on the parts list on page 104 Plate V.

If you need a copy of the parts list it is available somewhere on the net or 
you can send me a email and I will send it to you.

Bob

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 20 20:10:54 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 19:10:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Accelerator shaft removal
In-Reply-To: <201102202101.54461.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <04460B06D2844A4E8CD7060B216966A0@TRGUY>
	<201102202101.54461.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <0ff001cbd174$f40ceb50$0301a8c0@randall>

> If you need a copy of the parts list it is available 
> somewhere on the net

Eg http://tinyurl.com/6hmz9cg

-- Randall  


From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Feb 20 23:31:42 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 23:31:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] test
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W39D5100F0F18B236D6C768E1D90@phx.gbl>
References: <AANLkTimkkS46705+gU7PX+KbpmE7cA-FzC=1zEz3yCyr@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT123-W39D5100F0F18B236D6C768E1D90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4D6206CE.6050602@bradakis.com>

Rich White wrote:
> And I forgot to study!!!
>
>    

Don't worry, the test proctor is open to bribes.

mjb.



From don at napanet.net  Mon Feb 21 00:02:50 2011
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 23:02:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] question re draining fuel tank
In-Reply-To: <20110221005156.B1E55187661@autox.team.net>
References: <20110221005156.B1E55187661@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20110221070300.E0210AE6AA@mail.dsl.napanet.net>

I have a '66 TR4A which I recently purchased that has been sitting 
for quite some time.  It starts and runs, but I would like to drain 
the fuel tank mas the fuel in the tank is old.  My car is the type 
with solid rear axle if that makes any difference.
Is there any trick to draining the fuel tank?  Is it accessible from 
below the car?  Perhaps this is so simple an operation that posting 
it here is silly, but I just wanted to make sure there are no strange 
issues that might be lurking.
Thanks!
Don Scott


From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Mon Feb 21 03:48:49 2011
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 05:48:49 EST
Subject: [TR] [6pack] [Fot] Oil Filter Adapter
Message-ID: <458bb.19d6904c.3a939d11@aol.com>

I was trying to eliminate the drain back of oil when not running, but, I  
guess that I will just stick with the canister even though it is a PITA to  
change the filter.  I'll just make sure that I have a good filter.   The one 
I put in there was a VB brand (whatever that is) but in the future I  will 
stock up on some others.
When we bought the car I was sure that it was the same filter as the TR6,  s
ince it is the same configuration, but that turned out not to be the  case. 
 The TR6 filter is bigger in diameter and deeper.  
Sam and Carol Clark
Green Country Triumphs (Tulsa)
 
Just stick with the original filter. My mechanic says they're better for  
many
reasons. I know lots of folks love the spin on, so I'm not trying to  start 
a
big thread on which is better. Just my opinion.

Sloane  :)
69-Six




From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Mon Feb 21 04:42:51 2011
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 05:42:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR Jerk Footing
Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E870444E760DB@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>

To work this through, I'd want to know how easily the car rolls backwards in neutral, with you pushing it. The prop shaft will turn in the transmission, the diff, rear axle and the wheels & brakes will turn, and if the symptom persists, those are where I'd start. 

You could jack up the rear and turn each wheel by hand to eliminate the drum brakes and shaft into the diff.
You could spin the wheels (with help) and see if you feel a click or thump in either universal joint on the prop shaft.
You could disconnect the prop at the diff (mucky, but only 10 minutes) and roll the car back to see any difference

If it only happens when driven in reverse, then the transmission would look likely, imho.

Hope this helps,

Brian
Valley Forge, PA

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Mon Feb 21 04:47:02 2011
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 12:47:02 +0100
Subject: [TR] [6pack] [Fot] Oil Filter Adapter
In-Reply-To: <458bb.19d6904c.3a939d11@aol.com>
References: <458bb.19d6904c.3a939d11@aol.com>
Message-ID: <935C7CAD891446B7B75960DBAE2B875D@dbristerPC>



> Just stick with the original filter. My mechanic says they're better for
>many
>reasons. I know lots of folks love the spin on, so I'm not trying to  start
a
>big thread on which is better. Just my opinion.

>Sloane  :)
69-Six

I am most curious to know just one or two reasons why the old canister might 
be better than the spin on.
Surely a well made oil filter is a well made oil filter, and as long as the 
oil goes through it....................

David Brister
1967 TR4A
CTC77785 0
(With spin on adapter!)



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/david.brister at wanadoo.fr



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3456 - Release Date: 02/20/11 


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Feb 21 06:02:51 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 08:02:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] question re draining fuel tank
Message-ID: <184971.60a1a5f2.3a93bc7b@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/21/2011 1:29:23 AM Central Standard Time, 
don at napanet.net writes: 
> I have a '66 TR4A which I recently purchased that has been sitting 
> for quite some time.  It starts and runs, but I would like to drain 
> the fuel tank mas the fuel in the tank is old.  My car is the type 
> with solid rear axle if that makes any difference.
> Is there any trick to draining the fuel tank?  Is it accessible from 
> below the car?  Perhaps this is so simple an operation that posting 
> it here is silly, but I just wanted to make sure there are no strange 
> issues that might be lurking.
> 

I presume you don't wish to take a shower in it in the process.  That being 
the case I would recommend buying an electric fuel pump at the parts store 
and connecting it to the hose leading to the carbs.  With some extra hose 
you can direct the flow into a container.  Connect the pump to a battery and 
let it run.  It will take about 5 minutes.  This is easy and there's no 
crawling under the car.  

If there are further issues with the tank and you have to disconnect the 
line, at least most of the fuel will be out of the tank.

Having that pump around in the old tool kit can come in handy.  I't's 
always a good idea to keep one around.

Dave

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Mon Feb 21 06:08:35 2011
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 08:08:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] [Fot] Oil Filter Adapter
Message-ID: <b0b2.79a887fe.3a93bdd3@aol.com>



In a message dated 2/21/2011 7:12:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes:

I am  most curious to know just one or two reasons why the old canister 
might 
be  better than the spin on.
 
 
ME TOO!!!
 
Jack Mc


From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Feb 21 06:12:35 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 07:12:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Topping_on_the_cake!?=
Message-ID: <20110221131218.9FFD3187682@autox.team.net>

Hi guys, 
I'm about to replace the original (gasp!) white top on my early (v. early) TR4.
My question:  who supplies the most original, highest quality replacement top for the TR4?
Bear in mind, a white top, not black.
Thanks guys, in advance.
R

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb 21 06:32:36 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 05:32:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] question re draining fuel tank
In-Reply-To: <184971.60a1a5f2.3a93bc7b@cs.com>
References: <184971.60a1a5f2.3a93bc7b@cs.com>
Message-ID: <103001cbd1cb$cdb35780$0301a8c0@randall>

> Having that pump around in the old tool kit can come in handy.  I't's 
> always a good idea to keep one around.

I agree entirely.  In addition, if you get a pump that is compatible with
your carbs, it can be used as a temporary backup in case the mechanical pump
fails.  I'm fond of the little rectangular Facet pumps:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php

-- Randall  


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Feb 21 06:34:47 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 08:34:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] [Fot] Oil Filter Adapter
Message-ID: <185e20.447fdc2d.3a93c3f7@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/21/2011 7:13:47 AM Central Standard Time, 
McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: 
> In a message dated 2/21/2011 7:12:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes:
> 
> I am  most curious to know just one or two reasons why the old canister 
> might 
> be  better than the spin on.
> 
> 
> ME TOO!!!
> 
> Jack Mc
> 

Well, for one there's concours points.

Um... um...

Nope.  That's all I got.

Dave

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb 21 07:54:54 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 06:54:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] [Fot] Oil Filter Adapter
In-Reply-To: <185e20.447fdc2d.3a93c3f7@cs.com>
References: <185e20.447fdc2d.3a93c3f7@cs.com>
Message-ID: <103d01cbd1d7$4d3f77d0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Well, for one there's concours points.

How about less metal going to the landfill?

Easier to inspect the filter element for "sparklies" and mechanical damage.

Stick with the factory filter bypass (which can be blocked off if you
desire), instead of whatever the filter manufacturer happened to put in the
can.

-- Randall  


From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Feb 21 09:28:05 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 09:28:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] [Fot] Oil Filter Adapter
In-Reply-To: <935C7CAD891446B7B75960DBAE2B875D@dbristerPC>
References: <458bb.19d6904c.3a939d11@aol.com>
	<935C7CAD891446B7B75960DBAE2B875D@dbristerPC>
Message-ID: <E32BB420-8AB9-44D8-AC8D-7CF3B828B710@comcast.net>


On Feb 21, 2011, at 4:47 AM, David Brister wrote:

>> My mechanic says they're better for
>> many
>> reasons.


Maybe one of the "reasons" is that is takes more time to change the  
filter and the mechanic can charge more.  Good for the bottom line is  
always a good reason...to the mechanic.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Feb 21 10:17:57 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 12:17:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tony Cascio
In-Reply-To: <1972EEB3-28C1-4060-9EB6-8C43E683B491@mac.com>
References: <1972EEB3-28C1-4060-9EB6-8C43E683B491@mac.com>
Message-ID: <BLU156-w33EF6128E56D44180EA26FBAD90@phx.gbl>


I recieved the following from Tony's wife Jeanne yesterday and with her permission I am passing on to the list. Many of you know Tony from VTR and his red TR3.  Thought you would want to know. Sounds like he is having a tough go of it. I will pass on updates.
 
Marty
 
> Subject: Prayer request
> From: allegrorover at mac.com
> Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 10:55:59 -0500
> CC: allegrorover at mac.com
> To: allegrorover at mac.com
> 
> Dear Family and friends,
> I am writing to let you know that we need some prayers, some of you are aware and others I haven't been able to let you know yet, but Tony had a heart attack a few days ago and had double by-pass surgery yesterday. It was quite a shock to both of us and we still cannot believe what just happened over the last 72 hours. They had to take him to Jacksonville Fl for the surgery. He is doing very well but is very sore and will have a long road to recovery, but we all know him well enough to know he is a fighter and will be back in action soon. Our son Anthony flew in from NY and Eric and his girlfriend Erin from Savannah have been with us through all this, so I have great support. Paul and Rachel have been in touch non-stop, not to mention our wonderful family and friends who sent many prayers already and have been a great support even long distance. Thank you all for being here for us and I will keep you updated often. Love and hugs to all.
> Jeanne
 		 	   		  

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Feb 21 11:39:09 2011
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 13:39:09 EST
Subject: [TR] Parts request
Message-ID: <4ae28.5b0435cf.3a940b4d@aol.com>

Hi all;
 
A friend of mine also has a TR3 but his is under restoration. He is looking 
 for a wiper wheelbox for it. It's a 1956 (i.e., not a TR3A). Can anyone  
help?
 
Thanks!
 
Tim
(Ontario, Canada; TS22930LO)
 

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Mon Feb 21 12:09:16 2011
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 11:09:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] question re draining fuel tank
In-Reply-To: <103001cbd1cb$cdb35780$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <184971.60a1a5f2.3a93bc7b@cs.com>
	<103001cbd1cb$cdb35780$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <4D62B85C.6000203@comcast.net>

That's an even better price than JCWhitney:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/universal-solid-state-electric-pumps/p2005671.jcwx?filterid=c2064j1 


It seems they are pretty sensitive to fouling, so if it is an old tank 
you may want to be sure there is a filter in front of the pump.

Bob


On 2/21/2011 5:32 AM, Randall wrote:
>> Having that pump around in the old tool kit can come in handy.  I't's
>> always a good idea to keep one around.
> I agree entirely.  In addition, if you get a pump that is compatible with
> your carbs, it can be used as a temporary backup in case the mechanical pump
> fails.  I'm fond of the little rectangular Facet pumps:
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php
>
> -- Randall
>
>
>

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Feb 21 12:15:32 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 12:15:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tony Cascio
In-Reply-To: <BLU156-w33EF6128E56D44180EA26FBAD90@phx.gbl>
References: <1972EEB3-28C1-4060-9EB6-8C43E683B491@mac.com>
	<BLU156-w33EF6128E56D44180EA26FBAD90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E45D4A18-CC19-4EBE-B924-FDF99C126472@comcast.net>

Thanks Marty, at least the good news is he's doing well.

Jeanne was the first person I met when I arrived at Jekyll Island for  
VTR 2011 and she is one of the nicest people ever.  Tony came over and  
we got to talking, even as busy as they were helping out and getting  
ready for VTR.  For me it was one of those moments where you meet and  
know they are your kind of people.  They were my new buddies at VTR  
and have continued to be.  I hope Tony recovers quickly and is once  
again bugging me to buy my Project TR4A since his TR3A is about  
perfect (395.5 and Gold in VTR2011 Concours) and there's nothing it  
needs.

Best wishes.
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Feb 21, 2011, at 10:17 AM, marty sukey wrote:

>
> I recieved the following from Tony's wife Jeanne yesterday and with  
> her permission I am passing on to the list. Many of you know Tony  
> from VTR and his red TR3.  Thought you would want to know. Sounds  
> like he is having a tough go of it. I will pass on updates.
>
> Marty
>
>> Subject: Prayer request
>> From: allegrorover at mac.com
>> Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 10:55:59 -0500
>> CC: allegrorover at mac.com
>> To: allegrorover at mac.com
>>
>> Dear Family and friends,
>> I am writing to let you know that we need some prayers, some of you  
>> are aware and others I haven't been able to let you know yet, but  
>> Tony had a heart attack a few days ago and had double by-pass  
>> surgery yesterday. It was quite a shock to both of us and we still  
>> cannot believe what just happened over the last 72 hours. They had  
>> to take him to Jacksonville Fl for the surgery. He is doing very  
>> well but is very sore and will have a long road to recovery, but we  
>> all know him well enough to know he is a fighter and will be back  
>> in action soon. Our son Anthony flew in from NY and Eric and his  
>> girlfriend Erin from Savannah have been with us through all this,  
>> so I have great support. Paul and Rachel have been in touch non- 
>> stop, not to mention our wonderful family and friends who sent many  
>> prayers already and have been a great support even long distance.  
>> Thank you all for being here for us and I will keep you updated  
>> often. Love and hugs to all.
>> Jeanne
> 		 	   		
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net
>


From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Mon Feb 21 13:36:53 2011
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 12:36:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] question re draining fuel tank
In-Reply-To: <20110221070300.E0210AE6AA@mail.dsl.napanet.net>
References: <20110221005156.B1E55187661@autox.team.net>
	<20110221070300.E0210AE6AA@mail.dsl.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <39B42FBDEC444C03876BA7988709EDE3@Shemp>

Don,

If it were mine, I'd crawl under and drain the tank by removing the rubber 
hose connecting the two sections of steel line, on the driver's side next to 
the transmission.  Gravity takes care of the rest.  Odds are that these hose 
sections are old and and in poor shape, and ought to be replaced anyway.

Cliff



-----Original Message----- 
From: Don
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 11:02 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] question re draining fuel tank

I have a '66 TR4A which I recently purchased that has been sitting
for quite some time.  It starts and runs, but I would like to drain
the fuel tank mas the fuel in the tank is old.  My car is the type
with solid rear axle if that makes any difference.
Is there any trick to draining the fuel tank?  Is it accessible from
below the car?  Perhaps this is so simple an operation that posting
it here is silly, but I just wanted to make sure there are no strange
issues that might be lurking.
Thanks!
Don Scott

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net


From lherault at bu.edu  Mon Feb 21 13:55:57 2011
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 15:55:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] '71 TR6 owners ephemera for sale
Message-ID: <009001cbd209$bd5935b0$380ba110$@edu>

Hi gang,

I came across my wrecked (in '79) 1971 TR 6 owner's manual, service record
-Passport to Service-including the metal address plate for service bills, a
consumer information sheet from Coventry about stopping distance, Tyre
Reserve Load and acceleration/passing ability, along with an unused Triumph
Sports Owners Association membership application (unused).  Everything is
intact, no rips or stains and very little signs of wear.  The service record
is written in and has dealer stamps. It shows that it got its 48K servce in
1975 and the last recorded oil change is in 1976.  I probably was doing my
own oil changes after that, besides which there are no more places for
service records beyond that point.    

If anyone is interested in owning this lot of ephemera, I'd like $15.00 plus
postage for it.  First come, first served as they say. 

Ron L'Herault
lherault -at sign- bu.edu  no spaces, no dashes of course.

Ron L


From lherault at bu.edu  Mon Feb 21 13:58:48 2011
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 15:58:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW: '71 TR6 owners ephemera for sale
Message-ID: <009101cbd20a$233c4750$69b4d5f0$@edu>

I forgot to mention that I can send photos on request.  Pick up is
acceptable as well.  I live in North Attleboro, MA and work in Boston.


-----Original Message-----


If anyone is interested in owning this lot of ephemera, I'd like $15.00 plus
postage for it.  First come, first served as they say. 

Ron L'Herault
lherault -at sign- bu.edu  no spaces, no dashes of course.

Ron L


From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon Feb 21 14:14:42 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 15:14:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] question re draining fuel tank
Message-ID: <1925405739.249743.1298322882579.JavaMail.root@vznit170146>

Don,
 
I would also recommend if you replace the lines, you use the ehthanol proof ones, they are available by the foot.
 
Craig
1972 TR6


Feb 21, 2011 04:03:33 PM, cliff_hansen at earthlink.net wrote:

Don,

If it were mine, I'd crawl under and drain the tank by removing the rubber 
hose connecting the two sections of steel line, on the driver's side next to 
the transmission. Gravity takes care of the rest. Odds are that these hose 
sections are old and and in poor shape, and ought to be replaced anyway.

Cliff



-----Original Message----- 
From: Don
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 11:02 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] question re draining fuel tank

I have a '66 TR4A which I recently purchased that has been sitting
for quite some time. It starts and runs, but I would like to drain
the fuel tank mas the fuel in the tank is old. My car is the type
with solid rear axle if that makes any difference.
Is there any trick to draining the fuel tank? Is it accessible from
below the car? Perhaps this is so simple an operation that posting
it here is silly, but I just wanted to make sure there are no strange
issues that might be lurking.
Thanks!
Don Scott

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net

_______________________________________________
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From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Mon Feb 21 15:10:54 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 17:10:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Accelerator shaft removal
In-Reply-To: <201102202101.54461.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <04460B06D2844A4E8CD7060B216966A0@TRGUY>
	<201102202101.54461.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <86DFA33244B64A83BC3EC4A362086C5E@TRGUY>

Thanks everyone for the feedback.  Everything is off the car at this stage 
that can come off the car in preparation for paint, so I can easily access 
the shaft.  Let me see if i can get the pins out. That should help.  I 
wasn't quite sure what they were and don't want to damage anything.
Thanks again,
Jim Henningsen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Accelerator shaft removal


> On Sunday, February 20, 2011 08:21:22 pm James Henningsen wrote:
>> How do I remove the accelerator shaft completely from a TR4?  I have all 
>> of
>> the bolts and screws out, but it is hung up on the bushing on the driver
>> side.  Can I remove the bushing without damaging?  The repair manual
>> wasn't much help and I don't want to break anything. Thanks in advance,
>> Jim Henningsen
>> Maitland, FL
>> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
>> 75 TR6
>>
> Jim,
>
> The shaft comes apart by removing the split pins in the shaft. You will 
> need a
> very thin punch to get them out. Once you remove the pins you should be 
> able
> to pull the shaft parts through the bushings.
>
> There should be 2 split pins, one that connects the lever that connects to 
> the
> carb linkage and one on the drivers side that connects the metal petal 
> bush to
> the shaft.
>
> If the pins are damaged, you can get new ones at TRF.
>
> There is a diagram on the parts list on page 104 Plate V.
>
> If you need a copy of the parts list it is available somewhere on the net 
> or
> you can send me a email and I will send it to you.
>
> Bob
> 


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb 21 15:29:00 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 14:29:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] question re draining fuel tank
In-Reply-To: <4D62B85C.6000203@comcast.net>
References: <184971.60a1a5f2.3a93bc7b@cs.com>	<103001cbd1cb$cdb35780$0301a8c0@randall>
	<4D62B85C.6000203@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0b9b01cbd216$bd641f40$382c5dc0$@rr.com>

> It seems they are pretty sensitive to fouling, so if it is an old tank
> you may want to be sure there is a filter in front of the pump.

I've never had a problem with mine, but that filter shown on the bottom of
the AS page is also a handy way of adapting the inlet to a soft line, and is
a standard part available in most parts stores.  ISTR it fits a bunch of
Ford applications.

-- Randall 


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb 21 15:32:14 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 14:32:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] Parts request
In-Reply-To: <4ae28.5b0435cf.3a940b4d@aol.com>
References: <4ae28.5b0435cf.3a940b4d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0b9c01cbd217$33320cf0$999626d0$@rr.com>

> He is
> looking
>  for a wiper wheelbox for it. It's a 1956 (i.e., not a TR3A).

Early 56 or late?  The change was roughly mid-year, at TS12568. After that,
they were the same through the end of TR3B.


-- Randall
58 TR3A TS39781LO :(now totaled :(
56 TR3  TS13571L next project
71 Stag LE1473L waiting for engine rebuild
71 Stag LE2014LBW daily driver wanna-be 



From lherault at bu.edu  Mon Feb 21 15:32:53 2011
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 17:32:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph TR6 epehmera.
Message-ID: <000801cbd217$47b9a2a0$d72ce7e0$@edu>

The items have been spoken for.  Thanks!

Ron L


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb 21 15:41:31 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 14:41:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Accelerator shaft removal
In-Reply-To: <86DFA33244B64A83BC3EC4A362086C5E@TRGUY>
References: <04460B06D2844A4E8CD7060B216966A0@TRGUY>	<201102202101.54461.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<86DFA33244B64A83BC3EC4A362086C5E@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <0ba301cbd218$7c7a77c0$756f6740$@rr.com>

> Let me see if i can get the pins out.

Someone (maybe it was Geo Hahn?) had a clever idea for making a pin driver
out of a cheap C-clamp.  Remove the pad on the forcing screw and drill a
hole into the screw for a solid pin slightly smaller than the pin you are
trying to remove.  Then drill a slightly larger hole through the other side
of the clamp.

I've not had occasion to build one, but it sounded like a clever idea.

-- Randall 


From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Feb 21 19:21:05 2011
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 21:21:05 EST
Subject: [TR] Parts request
Message-ID: <129ef5.359fb5b7.3a947791@aol.com>

 
 
In a message dated 21/02/2011 5:32:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

> He  is
> looking
>  for a wiper wheelbox for it. It's a 1956  (i.e., not a TR3A).

Early 56 or late?  The change was roughly  mid-year, at TS12568. After that,
they were the same through the end of  TR3B.


-- Randall



Sorry, I should have been more specific. I overlooked the fact that  my 
friend had given me the part number. I don't know if it's early or late, will  
find out for sure and post again, but the part number is 502005.
 
Tim 

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Feb 21 19:23:46 2011
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2011 21:23:46 EST
Subject: [TR] PS: Re:  Parts request
Message-ID: <12a1dd.10f92182.3a947832@aol.com>

 
 
Just found out it's the early wiper wheelbox that is being sought.  
Apparently unavailable from suppliers.
 
Tim
 
In a message dated 21/02/2011 5:32:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

> He  is
> looking
>  for a wiper wheelbox for it. It's a 1956  (i.e., not a TR3A).

Early 56 or late?  The change was roughly  mid-year, at TS12568. After that,
they were the same through the end of  TR3B.


-- Randall




From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Tue Feb 22 07:43:59 2011
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 09:43:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] Vendor "Sales"
Message-ID: <AANLkTikK16sLmr2mMUJvHiPjKb1HYE0zL9zUMFUiAq9N@mail.gmail.com>

This is mostly a rant so feel free to stop reading here......

I've been waiting for a good winter sale to buy new wire wheels for my
TR4A.  So I was happy to get the "Buy More Save More" email from a supplier,
lets call them "M", promising 15% off orders over $1000.  I read the fine
print to see what's excluded, find nothing excluding wire wheels, and then
go to "M's" website preparing to order.  When I get to the price list I find
that the price of the wheels has gone up nearly 15% since I checked last in
January (15x4.5" 60 spoke painted wheels were $208, now are $236). There is
no real "sale".

Anyway, I guess I shoudn't be surprised by this, its certainly not the only
time a retailer has been misleading with this kind of sale, but I am a
disappointed customer.  For now my money is staying in my pocket.  The sale
is in effect until April 1st so the question is whether the sale is simply a
delay of a price increase or will prices magically go back down after the
"sale" is over.

Ben.....

From mike at newharts.com  Tue Feb 22 08:45:16 2011
From: mike at newharts.com (Mike Newhart)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 10:45:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Backward jerk goes forward
Message-ID: <AANLkTimvWPM12-zPmepj6jPjDj4Y26mFniYuxn6eMoN=@mail.gmail.com>

Took my driveshaft off and had it balanced with new U-joints.  That wasn't
the problem.  Still jerking forward when I go backward.  Jacked entire car
up, and the rear brakes aren't binding.  When I put the 3 in gear on stands,
the rear right wheel had a horrible wobble, even after trying 3 different
wheels.  Loud clicking sound, and some noticeable play.  Is it axle?
Differential?  Any thoughts are appreciated.  Thanks, Mike Newhart
Mike at newharts.com

From jaxwalt at gmail.com  Tue Feb 22 09:23:42 2011
From: jaxwalt at gmail.com (Walt L)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 11:23:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tony Cascio update
Message-ID: <AANLkTiksT6bYqzBdJsoWZRKB=B3XTj4XbUsb7O72YyUz@mail.gmail.com>

Just spoke with Tony.  He is doing as well as can be expected.
Tired and sore, but should be out in a few days.

Does not want to go back there again.

Walt
President TCNF
Jacksonville

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Feb 22 09:32:30 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 09:32:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Backward jerk goes forward
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimvWPM12-zPmepj6jPjDj4Y26mFniYuxn6eMoN=@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimvWPM12-zPmepj6jPjDj4Y26mFniYuxn6eMoN=@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DBB145FC29974D35942A6577B0716113@bboffice>

Mike,

Sounds like you have found your problem, and even if this is not the initial
problem you found another serious problem that will need to be addressed
before you hit the open road.  

Yes, sounds like a bent axel and once it is all apart you should see the
root of your problems.  Don't stop at the right side, get this thing apart
from hub-to-hub to make sure it is all OK before you drive.

Any idea how you might have done this?  A hard slide into the curb on turn
#3?

Good luck,
B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Newhart
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 8:45 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [SPAM][TR] Backward jerk goes forward

Took my driveshaft off and had it balanced with new U-joints.  That wasn't
the problem.  Still jerking forward when I go backward.  Jacked entire car
up, and the rear brakes aren't binding.  When I put the 3 in gear on stands,
the rear right wheel had a horrible wobble, even after trying 3 different
wheels.  Loud clicking sound, and some noticeable play.  Is it axle?
Differential?  Any thoughts are appreciated.  Thanks, Mike Newhart
Mike at newharts.com _______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Tue Feb 22 09:58:56 2011
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 11:58:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Backward jerk goes forward
In-Reply-To: <DBB145FC29974D35942A6577B0716113@bboffice>
References: <AANLkTimvWPM12-zPmepj6jPjDj4Y26mFniYuxn6eMoN=@mail.gmail.com>
	<DBB145FC29974D35942A6577B0716113@bboffice>
Message-ID: <35F82697689A49C681B42692116361A3@Engineering>

If the Axle is straight, it looks like it may be your rear Hub amight need
rebuilding with new Wheel Bearings.

Cheers,
Wayne Lee
Douglas, MA
64 TR4
75 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 11:33 AM
To: 'Mike Newhart'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [SPAM] Backward jerk goes forward

Mike,

Sounds like you have found your problem, and even if this is not the initial
problem you found another serious problem that will need to be addressed
before you hit the open road.  

Yes, sounds like a bent axel and once it is all apart you should see the
root of your problems.  Don't stop at the right side, get this thing apart
from hub-to-hub to make sure it is all OK before you drive.

Any idea how you might have done this?  A hard slide into the curb on turn
#3?

Good luck,
B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Newhart
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 8:45 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [SPAM][TR] Backward jerk goes forward

Took my driveshaft off and had it balanced with new U-joints.  That wasn't
the problem.  Still jerking forward when I go backward.  Jacked entire car
up, and the rear brakes aren't binding.  When I put the 3 in gear on stands,
the rear right wheel had a horrible wobble, even after trying 3 different
wheels.  Loud clicking sound, and some noticeable play.  Is it axle?
Differential?  Any thoughts are appreciated.  Thanks, Mike Newhart
Mike at newharts.com _______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com





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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 22 11:48:09 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 10:48:09 -0800
Subject: [TR] Vendor "Sales"
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikK16sLmr2mMUJvHiPjKb1HYE0zL9zUMFUiAq9N@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikK16sLmr2mMUJvHiPjKb1HYE0zL9zUMFUiAq9N@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0d0a01cbd2c1$0d4de180$27e9a480$@rr.com>

> so the question is whether the sale is
> simply a delay of a price increase

IMHO that is the most likely scenario.  Political opinions aside, inflation
IS going up in the USA and there is nothing we can do at this point to stop
it.

Just curious, would you have been happier if the presentation had been "Last
chance to buy at the old price."?

-- Randall 


From jaxwalt at gmail.com  Tue Feb 22 12:04:47 2011
From: jaxwalt at gmail.com (Walt L)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 14:04:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tony C update (resend)
Message-ID: <AANLkTik-koukv2WkTJzFZyyD2p+8v05uUaBEW6JGxs75@mail.gmail.com>

I must need a new Keyboard


List

Just spoke with Tony (late this AM).  He is doing as well as can be
expected.
Tired and sore, but should be out in a few days.

Does not want to do this again.

Walt
President TCNF
Jacksonville

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Feb 22 12:26:41 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 13:26:41 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
Message-ID: <1571715432.34583.1298402801785.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

LOL  12 responses  -  3 for SS; 3 for Chrome;  3 for either; 3 for neither (detracts from the looks of the car).     Anyone want to be the tie breaker.
 
General consensus
Chrome looks better - bright chrome like bumpers - must be diligent in waxing - will eventually rust  - (In stock); 
Stainless Steel less likely to rust - closer in appearance to the beading - less shiny - (3-6 week delay)  
 
Since I live in the land of 80%+ humidity the scales are tipping slightly - ever so slightly - toward stainless.   I wonder how the concourse judges might react - not that I am looking at a 100/400 pt car.
 
Thanks to all that responded on or off list - additional responses still appreciated.
Carl


Feb 19, 2011 04:27:06 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

A question for the collective wisdom of the list -

I am ready to buy a luggage rack for my TR3 project. I have decided on the
type that attaches to the hinges rather than drilling holes. The only
question is whether there is an advantage between stainless steel and chrome
(cost is the same).

Any and all comments or recommendations are welcomed. 

Thanks
Carl
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida


From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 22 13:25:34 2011
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 12:25:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
In-Reply-To: <1571715432.34583.1298402801785.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
References: <1571715432.34583.1298402801785.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
Message-ID: <129710.56572.qm@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Well, if I was going to buy a luggage rack it would be stainless - but?I really 
don't care for them myself?:)



----- Original Message ----
From: "cfmtr3a at verizon.net" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, February 22, 2011 1:26:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel

LOL? 12 responses? -? 3 for SS; 3 for Chrome;? 3 for either; 3 for neither 
(detracts from the looks of the car).? ? Anyone want to be the tie breaker.

General consensus
Chrome looks better - bright chrome like bumpers - must be diligent in waxing - 
will eventually rust? - (In stock); 

Stainless Steel less likely to rust - closer in appearance to the beading - less 
shiny - (3-6 week delay)? 


Since I live in the land of 80%+ humidity the scales are tipping slightly - ever 
so slightly - toward stainless.? I wonder how the concourse judges might react - 
not that I am looking at a 100/400 pt car.

Thanks to all that responded on or off list - additional responses still 
appreciated.
Carl


Feb 19, 2011 04:27:06 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

A question for the collective wisdom of the list -

I am ready to buy a luggage rack for my TR3 project. I have decided on the
type that attaches to the hinges rather than drilling holes. The only
question is whether there is an advantage between stainless steel and chrome
(cost is the same).

Any and all comments or recommendations are welcomed. 

Thanks
Carl
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/iron_horse819 at yahoo.com


      

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Tue Feb 22 13:40:07 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 14:40:07 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
Message-ID: <1360780546.40598.1298407207920.JavaMail.root@vznit170076>

I ordered stainless from TRF and sent them back because they looked green to me.  I like the chrome.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6


Feb 22, 2011 02:45:33 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

LOL 12 responses - 3 for SS; 3 for Chrome; 3 for either; 3 for neither (detracts from the looks of the car). Anyone want to be the tie breaker.

General consensus
Chrome looks better - bright chrome like bumpers - must be diligent in waxing - will eventually rust - (In stock); 
Stainless Steel less likely to rust - closer in appearance to the beading - less shiny - (3-6 week delay) 

Since I live in the land of 80%+ humidity the scales are tipping slightly - ever so slightly - toward stainless. I wonder how the concourse judges might react - not that I am looking at a 100/400 pt car.

Thanks to all that responded on or off list - additional responses still appreciated.
Carl


Feb 19, 2011 04:27:06 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

A question for the collective wisdom of the list -

I am ready to buy a luggage rack for my TR3 project. I have decided on the
type that attaches to the hinges rather than drilling holes. The only
question is whether there is an advantage between stainless steel and chrome
(cost is the same).

Any and all comments or recommendations are welcomed. 

Thanks
Carl
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 22 13:52:25 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 12:52:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
In-Reply-To: <1571715432.34583.1298402801785.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
References: <1571715432.34583.1298402801785.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
Message-ID: <954930.63537.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

living in the dry California desert, i recently opted for the chrome. i wanted 
the shine of chrome and water/rust is not a fear.
i guess chrome has it.
Frank




________________________________
From: "cfmtr3a at verizon.net" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, February 22, 2011 11:26:41 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel

LOL? 12 responses? -? 3 for SS; 3 for Chrome;? 3 for either; 3 for neither 
(detracts from the looks of the car).? ? Anyone want to be the tie breaker.

General consensus
Chrome looks better - bright chrome like bumpers - must be diligent in waxing - 
will eventually rust? - (In stock); 

Stainless Steel less likely to rust - closer in appearance to the beading - less 
shiny - (3-6 week delay)? 


Since I live in the land of 80%+ humidity the scales are tipping slightly - ever 
so slightly - toward stainless.? I wonder how the concourse judges might react - 
not that I am looking at a 100/400 pt car.

Thanks to all that responded on or off list - additional responses still 
appreciated.
Carl


      

From adcronin at mi.rr.com  Tue Feb 22 13:54:08 2011
From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 15:54:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
In-Reply-To: <1571715432.34583.1298402801785.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
References: <1571715432.34583.1298402801785.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
Message-ID: <C67BA817-2F14-428E-8945-26736D4761F9@mi.rr.com>

Carl
Stainless can be polished with a bit of effort to a very bright shine, hard to tell from chrome if that is part of your hesitation.
Dan


On Feb 22, 2011, at 2:26 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

> LOL  12 responses  -  3 for SS; 3 for Chrome;  3 for either; 3 for neither (detracts from the looks of the car).     Anyone want to be the tie breaker.
> 
> General consensus
> Chrome looks better - bright chrome like bumpers - must be diligent in waxing - will eventually rust  - (In stock); 
> Stainless Steel less likely to rust - closer in appearance to the beading - less shiny - (3-6 week delay)  
> 
> Since I live in the land of 80%+ humidity the scales are tipping slightly - ever so slightly - toward stainless.   I wonder how the concourse judges might react - not that I am looking at a 100/400 pt car.
> 
> Thanks to all that responded on or off list - additional responses still appreciated.
> Carl
> 


From auprichard at uprichard.net  Tue Feb 22 14:07:31 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 16:07:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
In-Reply-To: <1571715432.34583.1298402801785.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
References: <1571715432.34583.1298402801785.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
Message-ID: <CB64BD414D434431874390E51315F56D@DCH6RFC1>

I took the rack off and welded up the holes on my 250..............

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of cfmtr3a at verizon.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 2:27 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel

LOL  12 responses  -  3 for SS; 3 for Chrome;  3 for either; 3 for neither
(detracts from the looks of the car).     Anyone want to be the tie breaker.
 
General consensus
Chrome looks better - bright chrome like bumpers - must be diligent in
waxing - will eventually rust  - (In stock); 
Stainless Steel less likely to rust - closer in appearance to the beading -
less shiny - (3-6 week delay)  
 
Since I live in the land of 80%+ humidity the scales are tipping slightly -
ever so slightly - toward stainless.   I wonder how the concourse judges
might react - not that I am looking at a 100/400 pt car.
 
Thanks to all that responded on or off list - additional responses still
appreciated.
Carl


Feb 19, 2011 04:27:06 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

A question for the collective wisdom of the list -

I am ready to buy a luggage rack for my TR3 project. I have decided on the
type that attaches to the hinges rather than drilling holes. The only
question is whether there is an advantage between stainless steel and chrome
(cost is the same).

Any and all comments or recommendations are welcomed. 

Thanks
Carl
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net



From L1J1S at aol.com  Tue Feb 22 14:35:10 2011
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 16:35:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Vendor "Sales"
Message-ID: <e7ec.6ebc198b.3a95860e@aol.com>


From darrellw at ipns.com  Tue Feb 22 16:40:53 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 15:40:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] Some parts for sale (TR4A)
Message-ID: <7399E824-A30D-4C20-ABF2-F1C1B24ABFA9@ipns.com>


I've installed the Moss supercharger kit on my TR4A, and have some parts that I don't need.  I'll get pictures posted some time, but if you are interested that might increase my motivation!  These are all for the TR4A, though may be applicable to other cars.

Nippondenso alternator - $45

http://www.amscovf.com/ALTERNATOR-ND-IRIF-12V-45A-CW-1V-12180_p_232276.html

This is a very compact alternator.  I'll include my shorted mounting pedestal.  Includes plug.

TR4A radiator with 14" Permacool fan - $75

Includes all wiring for the fan.  Core is in good shape.  Tanks are a little beat up.

I'll sell just the radiator for $60, and the fan for $30, but prefer to sell together.

Narrow-belt aluminum water pump pulley - $25

I'll throw in a belt, too.

SU HS6 carbs with manifold, linkage, K&N filters - $1500

Not really wanting to sell this, but if the price is right...  The carbs were rebuild by Z-therapy, with needle bearings and seals on the throttle shafts.  The intake was powder coated by Fred Thomas, as was the brackets for the linkage.  One of the jets was leaking when I took them off, so I would suggest replacing both.  I have an assortment of needles that I can include.  I also have the ARE headshield (not installed) that I'll throw in (or sell for $25 on its own).

TR4A cast exhaust manifold - $150

In good shape, there is a small area where I started seeing if I could sand it smooth, but not visible when installed.  I can also include the down pipes (NLA by themselves, I believe).  They have some surface rusts, but nothing a good blasting and ceramic coating won't cure.

HD lever shocks - $75

Rebuilt by World Wide Auto Parts.  Includes linkage.

TR4A rear hubs - $25

Need to be rebuilt, or use as cores

Starter - $50

Worked fine when I removed it.  Painted dark gray.

Generator - $50

Worked find when I removed it.  Painted dark gray.

Gunson Gas Tester - $50




-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From cwnfot at gmail.com  Tue Feb 22 17:36:34 2011
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 19:36:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Backward jerk goes forward
In-Reply-To: <35F82697689A49C681B42692116361A3@Engineering>
References: <AANLkTimvWPM12-zPmepj6jPjDj4Y26mFniYuxn6eMoN=@mail.gmail.com>
	<DBB145FC29974D35942A6577B0716113@bboffice>
	<35F82697689A49C681B42692116361A3@Engineering>
Message-ID: <00b001cbd2f1$b9e31750$2da945f0$@com>

The "jerk" part make me think about the spider gears in the diff. Take an
inside look there.

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new
owner
"Reality, it's not what you think."



From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 22 19:26:59 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 18:26:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] vin plate rivets
Message-ID: <31505.96327.qm@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i was emailing with someone off list about vin tag rivets.
please contact me back, i have found them
Frank


      

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 22 19:28:29 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2011 18:28:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
Message-ID: <73515.59348.qm@web120213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

has any one attempted to change out the modern rear oil seal on the TR3 motor?
i know trans comes out.
tough job im sure.
impossible?
Frank


      

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Feb 23 00:12:43 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 00:12:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <73515.59348.qm@web120213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <73515.59348.qm@web120213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5F4068005A894251A02D9FE5E15ECBCA@bboffice>

Frank,
I think you are asking if it can be done without pulling the engine.  I
asked this question last year and the overwhelming sentiment was to pull the
motor & trans.  While it CAN be done in-situ, the effort and headaches make
pulling the engine a much easier option.

And yes, I pulled the engine/trans as a unit then when in to replace the
modern MOSS oil seal. 

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 7:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3

has any one attempted to change out the modern rear oil seal on the TR3
motor?
i know trans comes out.
tough job im sure.
impossible?
Frank


      
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed Feb 23 05:35:42 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 07:35:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
Message-ID: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>

I just tore down my nasty greasy engine.  I took the big parts with the
block to the machine shop and am getting those cleaned with the block.

I used to use gasoline to clean parts - but pretty sure that's not the way
to go today,  With everything I have I think there would be a case of brake
cleaner or more to get the hardware, etc clean.

What are you using to clean parts?

Thanks

Chris

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Feb 23 06:23:51 2011
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 05:23:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
Message-ID: <427984.45914.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     About 8 years ago I ordered a stainless steel truck rack for my TR3 from TRF. It went on back order for between 2 and 3 years. I actually forgot about it. When it did show up it was chrome plated instead of stainless. I kept it.
     You can't go wrong with stainless, I think.
     Good luck.

     -Bill in Tehachapi

Feb 19, 2011 04:27:06 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

A question for the collective wisdom of the list -

I am ready to buy a luggage rack for my TR3 project. I have decided on the
type that attaches to the hinges rather than drilling holes. The only
question is whether there is an advantage between stainless steel and chrome
(cost is the same).

Any and all comments or recommendations are welcomed.

Thanks
Carl
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida


From tbe749 at aol.com  Wed Feb 23 07:47:50 2011
From: tbe749 at aol.com (Tom)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 09:47:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
In-Reply-To: <1571715432.34583.1298402801785.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
References: <1571715432.34583.1298402801785.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
Message-ID: <07E74960-F37E-4E73-839F-3FA7F8A1AE16@aol.com>

I like the stainless look. Not sure why.

Tom

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 22, 2011, at 2:26 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

> LOL  12 responses  -  3 for SS; 3 for Chrome;  3 for either; 3 for neither (detracts from the looks of the car).     Anyone want to be the tie breaker.
> 
> General consensus
> Chrome looks better - bright chrome like bumpers - must be diligent in waxing - will eventually rust  - (In stock); 
> Stainless Steel less likely to rust - closer in appearance to the beading - less shiny - (3-6 week delay)  
> 
> Since I live in the land of 80%+ humidity the scales are tipping slightly - ever so slightly - toward stainless.   I wonder how the concourse judges might react - not that I am looking at a 100/400 pt car.
> 
> Thanks to all that responded on or off list - additional responses still appreciated.
> Carl
> 
> 
> Feb 19, 2011 04:27:06 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:
> 
> A question for the collective wisdom of the list -
> 
> I am ready to buy a luggage rack for my TR3 project. I have decided on the
> type that attaches to the hinges rather than drilling holes. The only
> question is whether there is an advantage between stainless steel and chrome
> (cost is the same).
> 
> Any and all comments or recommendations are welcomed. 
> 
> Thanks
> Carl
> 1961 TR3A TS81802LO
> Tampa, Florida
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tbe749 at aol.com
> 

From cwnfot at gmail.com  Wed Feb 23 08:05:36 2011
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 10:05:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007a01cbd36b$210d6b00$63284100$@com>

I use a liquid product called Oil Eater, then hose off. 
Great stuff. 
Sometimes in stock at Costco but not presently at my location.

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new
owner
"Reality, it's not what you think."



From darrellw at ipns.com  Wed Feb 23 08:06:24 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 07:06:24 -0800
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CC44DA65-346D-416A-9B33-A152C3533C98@ipns.com>


Hi Chris,

The system I used the last time was:

1.  Wipe as much as possible off with paper towels (lots of paper towels).
2.  Spray with Simple Green or citrus-based degreaser, wipe with more paper towels.  Be careful with aluminum parts, some of the degreasers will stain.  Scrub with toothbrushes (small areas) or a kitchen brush.
3.  Wash in hot/warm, soapy water.  If you don't have a sink for this, get a plastic tub.  If the part is prone to rust, wipe some clean oil on it after drying.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 23 08:07:48 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 07:07:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <554509.34398.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

turpentine.
don't know if its environmentally correct but it works
Frank




________________________________
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, February 23, 2011 4:35:42 AM
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?

I just tore down my nasty greasy engine.? I took the big parts with the
block to the machine shop and am getting those cleaned with the block.

I used to use gasoline to clean parts - but pretty sure that's not the way
to go today,? With everything I have I think there would be a case of brake
cleaner or more to get the hardware, etc clean.

What are you using to clean parts?

Thanks

Chris
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net  Wed Feb 23 08:33:05 2011
From: fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net (Tom & Marge FitzGibbon)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 15:33:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <1138774950.1453170.1298475166997.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Just curious. Does anyone use a parts washer? If so, what cleaning solution do you use in the parts washer? 


Tom 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> 
To: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:07:48 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts? 

turpentine. 
don't know if its environmentally correct but it works 
Frank 




________________________________ 
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> 
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wed, February 23, 2011 4:35:42 AM 
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts? 

I just tore down my nasty greasy engine. I took the big parts with the 
block to the machine shop and am getting those cleaned with the block. 

I used to use gasoline to clean parts - but pretty sure that's not the way 
to go today, With everything I have I think there would be a case of brake 
cleaner or more to get the hardware, etc clean. 

What are you using to clean parts? 

Thanks 

Chris 
_______________________________________________ 
Triumphs at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $11.47 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com 



_______________________________________________ 
Triumphs at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $11.47 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net 


From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Feb 23 08:55:55 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 15:55:55 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <007a01cbd36b$210d6b00$63284100$@com>
References: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
	<007a01cbd36b$210d6b00$63284100$@com>
Message-ID: <79493.16429.qm@web28311.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

I used to use a product we have in the UK called 'JIZER.' It's water soluble, 
neutralises toxic substances like oil and grease which means you can legally 
flush it down a public sewer?and you remove it from the article you've cleaned a 
high pressure washer. If cleaning parts in a parts cleaning cabinet, I find a 
pint or two of?ordinary domestic heating oil is ideal as it leaves a slightly 
oily film to counter rust. But there are lots of alternative 'green' products 
you can use as an alternative.
?
Jonmac


      

From darrellw at ipns.com  Wed Feb 23 09:00:31 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 08:00:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CA982678-AA77-462B-A335-A94B3B72564E@ipns.com>


On Feb 23, 2011, at 7:33 AM, Tom & Marge FitzGibbon wrote:

> Just curious. Does anyone use a parts washer? If so, what cleaning solution do you use in the parts washer? 

I used to have one.  I used kerosene in it.

-Darrell


From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Feb 23 09:04:05 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 09:04:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D48EF9B77FBA415690AE76143F65D541@bboffice>

I use lacquer thinner, about $45.00 for a 5 gal can.  Like all solvents you
need to be very careful to have a good ventilated area when using it.  I
used to use varsol, but I could not find any the last time I needed solvent.

Gasoline?  Reminds me of setting my basement on fire while cleaning the
parts of my 1952 Zundapp, it was a blizzard that day and the fire chief was
not happy... Nor was my mother!

Clean safely,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 5:36 AM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?

I just tore down my nasty greasy engine.  I took the big parts with the
block to the machine shop and am getting those cleaned with the block.

I used to use gasoline to clean parts - but pretty sure that's not the way
to go today,  With everything I have I think there would be a case of brake
cleaner or more to get the hardware, etc clean.

What are you using to clean parts?

Thanks

Chris
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 23 09:17:59 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 08:17:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <266235.83314.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

yes
buddy Kurt has the part washer we share. and we use turpentine in the washer.
Frank




________________________________
From: Tom & Marge FitzGibbon <fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, February 23, 2011 7:33:05 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?

Just curious. Does anyone use a parts washer? If so, what cleaning solution do 
you use in the parts washer? 



Tom 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> 
To: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:07:48 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts? 

turpentine. 
don't know if its environmentally correct but it works 
Frank 


      

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 23 09:20:33 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 08:20:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1138774950.1453170.1298475166997.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <13c101cbd375$98ae8680$0301a8c0@randall>

> Just curious. Does anyone use a parts washer? If so, what 
> cleaning solution do you use in the parts washer? 

I did, until it quit working.  Came with 5 gallons of some sort of
petroleum-based solvent, which eventually dissolved the pump.

I've tried some of the water-based cleaners, including Simple Green.
Nothing I've tried works as well as plain old diesel fuel (or home heating
oil).  They do work, especially if you get them hot and use a strong spray,
but diesel works without all that fuss.

If you poke around on-line, I think you'll find plans for a home-made waste
oil burner ...

-- Randall  


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Feb 23 10:16:31 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 12:16:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1138774950.1453170.1298475166997.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>,
	<1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU156-w15E281A1FAC49D3FA069E8BADB0@phx.gbl>


Got one 10 or 15 years ago. Would never do without one again. Use solvent I purchase from the local Tractor Supply store. Not sure what it is off the top of my head.
 
Marty
 
> Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 15:33:05 +0000
> From: fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
> 
> Just curious. Does anyone use a parts washer? If so, what cleaning solution do you use in the parts washer? 
> 
> 
 		 	   		  

From aribert at c3net.net  Wed Feb 23 10:25:04 2011
From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 12:25:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Disposing of parts cleaning solution Re: What do you use to
 clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12875.1298478042.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.12875.1298478042.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <dfe29259d5bb5fdc99df2d4d90b23e9e.squirrel@server6.glis.net>

I see what Randall does (or might do) with the fouled petroleum based
cleaning solution.  WHat do the rest of you do?  I used to use paint
thinner but have switched to kerosene - easier to buy in bulk and I keep
it on hand for heating the garage in the shoulder seasons.  I would change
out the solvent more frequently if I had a good way to dispose of it.  I
have also thought of how I could filter the solvent to wash with less
dirty solvent.  I've taken a 5 gal can of oily, sandy kerosene to the
local household waste disposal drop off at the county.  Not certain that
they are expecting oil and dirt contaminated kerosene when I drop it off.

I've tried works as well as plain old diesel fuel (or home heating
> oil).  ..... but diesel works without all that fuss.
> If you poke around on-line, I think you'll find plans for a home-made
> waste
> oil burner ... -- Randall




From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Feb 23 10:29:35 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 10:29:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <8CC33B12-5560-48BF-9DEE-7FE15D69A6CE@telus.net>
References: <mailman.12761.1298445189.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CC33B12-5560-48BF-9DEE-7FE15D69A6CE@telus.net>
Message-ID: <6750F57290814B2E919EA09B0093DED7@bboffice>

Don,

It leaked badly, and then we learned that the machine shop neglected to put
the pressure relief holes in the rear cap.  Everything else was re-checked
and is in perfect spec. 

Now is only leaks moderately, I did not give away my bag of oil-dri.  
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


________________________________

From: Don Spence [mailto:dkspence at telus.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:13 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: rear oil seal TR3


Bill 
 Are saying the "modern MOSS oil seal" leaked and had to be replaced?
Thanks
Don



	
	

	From: <wbeech at flash.net>

	Date: February 23, 2011 12:12:43 AM MST (CA)

	To: "'Frank Fisher'" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>,
<triumphs at autox.team.net>

	Subject: Re: [TR] rear oil seal TR3

	
	

	
	

	Frank,

	I think you are asking if it can be done without pulling the engine.
I

	asked this question last year and the overwhelming sentiment was to
pull the

	motor & trans.  While it CAN be done in-situ, the effort and
headaches make

	pulling the engine a much easier option.

	
	

	And yes, I pulled the engine/trans as a unit then when in to replace
the

	modern MOSS oil seal. 

	
	

	Bill




From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Wed Feb 23 10:34:18 2011
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 12:34:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12875.1298478042.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.12875.1298478042.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1F839D0C-A05B-4A95-AD79-7BBC069ED78F@mgcarclub.com>

Though I haven't used it a lot or on big jobs, I was surprised ( a  
duh! moment) that hand cleaner works quite well.

Allen

On Feb 23, 2011, at 11:20 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
>


From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Feb 23 10:34:51 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 17:34:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <5F4068005A894251A02D9FE5E15ECBCA@bboffice>
Message-ID: <30853054.233168.1298482491765.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



Bill, 



I just installed the oil seal provided by Joe Alexander on a TR3. I had Joe machine the original aluminum "seal" to accommodate the new one. Also bought the alignment mandrel from Joe. Installation was straightforward (engine is out, on a stand). I also had two auxiliary drain holes drilled in the main cap. 



Big advantage of this seal is that no machining of the crank is required. The seal rides on the crank between the scroll and the rear flange. 



We shall see how it works out, but this I know: since it's an addition to the original seal, it cannot be worse than the original arrangement and a crank has not been sacrificed. 



Ed Woods 

From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Feb 23 10:42:04 2011
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 12:42:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CDA1981E28C482-C58-1C36D@webmail-m001.sysops.aol.com>


 The recommended solution for parts washers is Stoddard Solvent.  It's kind of tough to find, most outlets want a service contract to change it out, but it can be had.
http://www.mowpart.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=stoddard+solvent&osCsid=jdoc40mjgq7rohahc2ua1l1mc5&search.x=14&search.y=8

 


 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit
http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/s6588.htm

Dave

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom & Marge FitzGibbon <fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net>


Just curious. Does anyone use a parts washer? If so, what cleaning solution do 

you use in the parts washer? 





 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Feb 23 10:48:41 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 17:48:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Cleaning greasy parts
Message-ID: <1744542130.234036.1298483321087.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



List, 



I use a made in Taiwan parts cleaner with pump purchased many, many years ago, with kerosene as the cleaning agent. It presently has a inch of sludge since I've never drained it. 



After the parts cleaner, I?soak the bits in Gunk, then wash in hot water, followed by a wash in hot, soapy water; then a rinse and blow dry. Parts to be painted get a primer. Unpainted parts get assembled. Aluminum castings, like overdrive or transmission cases, go into the bead blaster. 



Ed Woods 

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Wed Feb 23 11:00:06 2011
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 12:00:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] Disposing of parts cleaning solution Re: What do you use
 to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <dfe29259d5bb5fdc99df2d4d90b23e9e.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
References: <mailman.12875.1298478042.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<dfe29259d5bb5fdc99df2d4d90b23e9e.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=AS=Q=--jOcuxuU-5UjZ=2=eFCBqcmT3LqhC6r@mail.gmail.com>

When I lived in Indy the local Safety Kleen would take small
quantities from non-commercial users for free.  Where I am now I have
to take it to the local pollution prevention center( aka landfill) and
pay a disposal fee.  The fee is annoying, but not enough to make me
want to look for other options.

On Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 11:25 AM,  <aribert at c3net.net> wrote:
> I see what Randall does (or might do) with the fouled petroleum based
> cleaning solution. ?WHat do the rest of you do? ?I used to use paint
> thinner but have switched to kerosene - easier to buy in bulk and I keep
> it on hand for heating the garage in the shoulder seasons. ?I would change
> out the solvent more frequently if I had a good way to dispose of it. ?I
> have also thought of how I could filter the solvent to wash with less
> dirty solvent. ?I've taken a 5 gal can of oily, sandy kerosene to the
> local household waste disposal drop off at the county. ?Not certain that
> they are expecting oil and dirt contaminated kerosene when I drop it off.
>
> I've tried works as well as plain old diesel fuel (or home heating
>> oil). ?..... but diesel works without all that fuss.
>> If you poke around on-line, I think you'll find plans for a home-made
>> waste
>> oil burner ... -- Randall
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation ?$11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>



-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you?? =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown? =
=================================

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 23 11:18:04 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 10:18:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <6750F57290814B2E919EA09B0093DED7@bboffice>
References: <mailman.12761.1298445189.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CC33B12-5560-48BF-9DEE-7FE15D69A6CE@telus.net>
	<6750F57290814B2E919EA09B0093DED7@bboffice>
Message-ID: <857418.64009.qm@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

it was me who started this thread.
we have rebuilt a friends motor and used the normal supplier modern rear oil 
seal. machined the crank etc.
after only a hundred miles we have found an oil leak from the rear of the motor. 
dripping from the bottom of the bell-housing.
we question whether we hammered the rear?camshaft seal place in good and proper. 
and if we sealed it properly.
my plan is to pull the transmission and inspect. as best as one can because im 
sure its pretty messy back there.
maybe we can clean up, put the flywheel back on and run the motor for a few mins 
and see if oil turns up. yes ill be sure to block and secure the back of the 
motor.
we have new crank and cam seals ready if needed.
I'm sure replacing the rear crank oil seal would be a real PIA, but my question 
is can it be done. or is it for some reason just impossible?
we have the pressure relief holes machined properly.
Frank


Don,

It leaked badly, and then we learned that the machine shop neglected to put
the pressure relief holes in the rear cap.? Everything else was re-checked
and is in perfect spec. 

Now is only leaks moderately, I did not give away my bag of oil-dri.? 

Bill Beecher



Bill 
Are saying the "modern MOSS oil seal" leaked and had to be replaced?
Thanks
Don


      

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Feb 23 11:28:03 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 18:28:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 and TR4 rear oil seals; what's worked for me
In-Reply-To: <940406398.234538.1298483784175.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1582085534.236948.1298485683024.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>




List, 



A few comments on my experiences with aftermarket seals, yours may vary. 



1. The seal arrangement that requires machining of the crank has met with varying success. Following the same procedure every time does not seem to offer the same result.? From what I've read of the experiences of others, this inconsistency is typical. I will not use this method again. 



2. I did a TR4 engine a couple of years ago using a standard aluminum "seal" machined to closer tolerances by Greg Solow of The Engine Room.? I used Greg's mandrel to align the seal. The owner of the TR4 reported "no leaks" when asked about it last summer. I seem to recall that that engine also had auxiliary drain holes drilled in the rear main cap. 



3. I just completed installation of a seal of German origin furnished by Joe Alexander. It requires machining of the original Triumph seal, but no alteration of the crankshaft. It's a split design that is located between the crank's original scroll and the rear flange.? Joe also furnishes a mandrel with which to align the two halves of the Triumph seal. Instructions were clear and easy to follow.? I also had the two auxiliary drain holes drilled in the rear main cap. Since the original Triumph arrangement is not altered, this approach can be no worse than the original design and should be significantly better. We shall see. 



Ed Woods 




From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Feb 23 12:03:12 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 13:03:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <857418.64009.qm@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.12761.1298445189.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CC33B12-5560-48BF-9DEE-7FE15D69A6CE@telus.net>
	<6750F57290814B2E919EA09B0093DED7@bboffice>
	<857418.64009.qm@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20110223190314.E63A118764F@autox.team.net>

It IS possible to replace the "modern" split seal without removing 
the engine, uncle jack did it at least once.  You do have to remove 
the tranny and I'm pretty sure you have to remove the flywheel.  If 
you remove all of the main caps you can supposedly pry the crankshaft 
down far enough to get the old seal off and the new one on.

- Tony Drews

At 12:18 PM 2/23/2011, Frank Fisher wrote:
>it was me who started this thread.
>we have rebuilt a friends motor and used the normal supplier modern rear oil
>seal. machined the crank etc.
>after only a hundred miles we have found an oil leak from the rear 
>of the motor.
>dripping from the bottom of the bell-housing.
>we question whether we hammered the rear camshaft seal place in good 
>and proper.
>and if we sealed it properly.
>my plan is to pull the transmission and inspect. as best as one can 
>because im
>sure its pretty messy back there.
>maybe we can clean up, put the flywheel back on and run the motor 
>for a few mins
>and see if oil turns up. yes ill be sure to block and secure the back of the
>motor.
>we have new crank and cam seals ready if needed.
>I'm sure replacing the rear crank oil seal would be a real PIA, but 
>my question
>is can it be done. or is it for some reason just impossible?
>we have the pressure relief holes machined properly.
>Frank
>
>
>Don,
>
>It leaked badly, and then we learned that the machine shop neglected to put
>the pressure relief holes in the rear cap.  Everything else was re-checked
>and is in perfect spec.
>
>Now is only leaks moderately, I did not give away my bag of oil-dri.
>
>Bill Beecher
>
>
>
>Bill
>Are saying the "modern MOSS oil seal" leaked and had to be replaced?
>Thanks
>Don
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Manage your account: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com



From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 23 12:11:50 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 11:11:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <857418.64009.qm@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.12761.1298445189.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>	<8CC33B12-5560-48BF-9DEE-7FE15D69A6CE@telus.net>	<6750F57290814B2E919EA09B0093DED7@bboffice>
	<857418.64009.qm@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0e6d01cbd38d$86c3cee0$944b6ca0$@rr.com>

> I'm sure replacing the rear crank oil seal would be a real PIA, but my
> question
> is can it be done. or is it for some reason just impossible?

I believe it can be done.  
http://tinyurl.com/464qfsh

However, many of the instructions supplied have had the wrong dimensions for
grinding the crank.  If it turns out you were misled by defective
instructions, it may be that the only real solution is to remove the crank
and either replace it or have it welded up and reground larger.
http://tinyurl.com/4jaecds

-- Randall 


From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed Feb 23 12:14:35 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 14:14:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <8CDA1981E28C482-C58-1C36D@webmail-m001.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<8CDA1981E28C482-C58-1C36D@webmail-m001.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinXQ3tsojshSP2ifR8QbcvA1zKzJV=FnJg7+s7x@mail.gmail.com>

Last time my wife was out of town,  I cleaned up the partrs as best I could
and put them in the dishwasher with a double shot of soap.   Came out with a
little orange rust film in places but otherwise very clean.....

Your results and the results on your marraige may vary.....   She still
doesn't know - please keep this on the down low.

Chris

From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 23 12:25:43 2011
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 11:25:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Compression readings
In-Reply-To: <b0b2.79a887fe.3a93bdd3@aol.com>
References: <b0b2.79a887fe.3a93bdd3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <58382.42101.qm@web56202.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Hello All,
?
I recently did a compression test on my 74 TR6 in advance of sending my 
distributor off for a rebuild. The results came back :175, 190, 210, 220, 180, 
180. I have now heard this may be a problem. I used an expensive Harbor Freight 
tester but assuming these are accurate does this mean time for a rebuild or 
other issue?
?
Thanks?in advance for any feedback
?
Robert
?
Robert Rudolphi
1974 TR6?


      

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Feb 23 12:56:09 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 14:56:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression readings
In-Reply-To: <58382.42101.qm@web56202.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <b0b2.79a887fe.3a93bdd3@aol.com>
	<58382.42101.qm@web56202.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1102231453440.14470@isis.mit.edu>



You have one data point.

DO a leakdown test and get another data point.

To be honest, 20 - 25 pounds diff sounds like a lot, but it's only about 
10% variation. No perfect, but not really, really bad.

Also, make sure that you used the exact same method on all 6 pots 
(wide-open throttle, turn the motor a min. of 4 turns on the starter)

Also, also, do the test "wet" and see if the number change.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 23 13:12:14 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 12:12:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] Compression readings
In-Reply-To: <58382.42101.qm@web56202.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <b0b2.79a887fe.3a93bdd3@aol.com>
	<58382.42101.qm@web56202.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0e8001cbd395$f6f350c0$e4d9f240$@rr.com>

> The results came back :175, 190, 210, 220, 180,
> 180.

At +/- 10%, your engine is getting a bit 'tired'.  It should still run OK,
but max power will be somewhat down and it may burn a bit more fuel than a
fresh engine would.

You might want to start saving your nickels & dimes for a bit of freshening.
Also wouldn't hurt to look for any external causes, like misadjusted valves.

-- Randall


From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Feb 23 13:23:30 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 13:23:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <1F839D0C-A05B-4A95-AD79-7BBC069ED78F@mgcarclub.com>
References: <mailman.12875.1298478042.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<1F839D0C-A05B-4A95-AD79-7BBC069ED78F@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <322761C7B5984D6E82A4CD74D474AD69@Vista>

Speaking of hand cleaner, I found that "spray and wash" does an amazing job
cleaning grease off your hands.  Perhaps a couple of squirts of it onto
grimy parts would cur through the grease as well.

Joe C. 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allen Hess
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:34 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?

Though I haven't used it a lot or on big jobs, I was surprised ( a  
duh! moment) that hand cleaner works quite well.

Allen

On Feb 23, 2011, at 11:20 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
>

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Feb 23 13:23:19 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 14:23:19 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack - Chrome or Stainless Steel
Message-ID: <939099449.112761.1298492599848.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

Gotta Luv it.   I have had 10 more responses.
4 for SS; 4 for Chrome; 2 Neither but one said if "had to choose =SS".

I also had one response that pointed out that with a bit of effort the stainless can be buffed/polished to a near chrome finish.  (search internet for ss polishing)

On a previous car I did have a chrome one and it did start to rust at the welds in about 2 years and elsewhere in 5 - even with dilligent waxing.   Florida air is definitly not Arizona - you can't leave any unfinished metal and even some finished ones out overnight without rust surfacing.  

I have decided to go with the stainless and will decide after it is here whether to shine it up.   

thanks to all who responded.
Carl
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida


Feb 22, 2011 07:45:38 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

LOL 12 responses - 3 for SS; 3 for Chrome; 3 for either; 3 for neither (detracts from the looks of the car). Anyone want to be the tie breaker.

General consensus
Chrome looks better - bright chrome like bumpers - must be diligent in waxing - will eventually rust - (In stock); 
Stainless Steel less likely to rust - closer in appearance to the beading - less shiny - (3-6 week delay) 

Since I live in the land of 80%+ humidity the scales are tipping slightly - ever so slightly - toward stainless. I wonder how the concourse judges might react - not that I am looking at a 100/400 pt car.

Thanks to all that responded on or off list - additional responses still appreciated.
Carl



From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Feb 23 13:54:48 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 20:54:48 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Your name on the Roll of Honour? Triumph Trans-AmeriCa 2009
Message-ID: <144384.64868.qm@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Friends on this list. If you took part in any aspect of the Drive in 2009 where 
I met so many people who had been just 'cyber-friends' up to that time, I'd like 
to hear from you. The book of the event is going to print during this year in 
the States and it will feature a Roll of Honour?of all those who took part 
and/or in some way made a specific contribution to the event itself.
I have already emailed all the contacts I had with all the clubs who most 
kindly?invited me to visit them during the course of the trip and I'm confident 
they'll be replying to me as soon as they have completed the participant lists I 
have requested. However,?for all sorts of reasons I may not receive some of 
those lists and so won't have all the names I'm so anxious to have. So, if you 
took part in the Drive or attended a show in support of it with your car, please 
email me off-list with the following details:

The year, make and model of your car
Your name and that of your crew
Whether you drove part of the route - or not
The name of your club

I can then make sure your name goes on the Roll of Honour. Please note the 
spelling of 'honour.' I know you guys normally omit the 'u' for this word, but 
I'm including it in the book because some of?*you* took part in the event :) 
FYI, fundraising has been on-going since the event finished and is now 
approaching US$100,000 overall.

Thanks, Jonmac



      

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Feb 23 14:18:02 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 15:18:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <0e6d01cbd38d$86c3cee0$944b6ca0$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.12761.1298445189.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CC33B12-5560-48BF-9DEE-7FE15D69A6CE@telus.net>
	<6750F57290814B2E919EA09B0093DED7@bboffice>
	<857418.64009.qm@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<0e6d01cbd38d$86c3cee0$944b6ca0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20110223211758.08C2A18764A@autox.team.net>

To amplify the "crank diameter" problem - I have a (very expensive) 
crank with the "too small" diameter, made to the 0.020" undersize 
original dimension.  I shorten the spring for the seal to a little 
under 8" and I VERY CAREFULLY trim just a touch off of one end of the 
seal to make it's compressed diameter smaller.  I use a very sharp 
knife to do this.

- Tony

At 01:11 PM 2/23/2011, Randall wrote:
> > I'm sure replacing the rear crank oil seal would be a real PIA, but my
> > question
> > is can it be done. or is it for some reason just impossible?
>
>I believe it can be done.
>http://tinyurl.com/464qfsh
>
>However, many of the instructions supplied have had the wrong dimensions for
>grinding the crank.  If it turns out you were misled by defective
>instructions, it may be that the only real solution is to remove the crank
>and either replace it or have it welded up and reground larger.
>http://tinyurl.com/4jaecds
>
>-- Randall
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Manage your account: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com



From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed Feb 23 14:18:20 2011
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 16:18:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
References: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4D62FC40CBA64008B59F493634CDB363@D6254Z51>

I use a machine made by Fountain Industries, who made machines for 
Saftey-Kleen. Two good solvents are  NAPA #6505 or Castrol #81207 (I got 
both from NAPA.) I try to get the big chunks of an item first, before it 
goes into the machine. Solvent will lose its disolving power when it gets 
contamminated with heavy oil and grease. I have a double barrel stove for 
shop heat so the old solvent is used sparingly to start fires and the solids 
are incinerated. Your  may have a hazardous disposal day that may not be 
that terrible. I would not use gas or laquer thinner due to explosive 
flammability.

Alex Thomson

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 7:35 AM
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?


>I just tore down my nasty greasy engine.  I took the big parts with the
> block to the machine shop and am getting those cleaned with the block.
>
> I used to use gasoline to clean parts - but pretty sure that's not the way
> to go today,  With everything I have I think there would be a case of 
> brake
> cleaner or more to get the hardware, etc clean.
>
> What are you using to clean parts?
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net
>
> 



From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com  Wed Feb 23 14:37:00 2011
From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 13:37:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] Disposing of parts cleaning solution Re: What do you use
	to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=AS=Q=--jOcuxuU-5UjZ=2=eFCBqcmT3LqhC6r@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.12875.1298478042.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<dfe29259d5bb5fdc99df2d4d90b23e9e.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
	<AANLkTi=AS=Q=--jOcuxuU-5UjZ=2=eFCBqcmT3LqhC6r@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000901cbd3a1$d0889b00$7199d100$@com>

In California many counties run Household Hazardous Waste Centers. This is a
totally free service and they will take new and used solvents, oil, paint,
old batteries, etc. It is best to go on line and check what they take and
their schedules. Because of budget issues, they are typically open only a
few days a week and sometimes it is on alternate weekends. It is a great
service and a good way to get rid of hazardous stuff responsibly. I have
worked on the design of several of these facilities, so I am a bit biased.
Roger

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Innis
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:00 AM
To: aribert at c3net.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Disposing of parts cleaning solution Re: What do you use
to clean greasy parts?

When I lived in Indy the local Safety Kleen would take small
quantities from non-commercial users for free.  Where I am now I have
to take it to the local pollution prevention center( aka landfill) and
pay a disposal fee.  The fee is annoying, but not enough to make me
want to look for other options.



From pryner at verizon.net  Wed Feb 23 15:06:19 2011
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 17:06:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Disposing of parts cleaning solution Re: What do you
 use	to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <000901cbd3a1$d0889b00$7199d100$@com>
References: <mailman.12875.1298478042.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<dfe29259d5bb5fdc99df2d4d90b23e9e.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
	<AANLkTi=AS=Q=--jOcuxuU-5UjZ=2=eFCBqcmT3LqhC6r@mail.gmail.com>
	<000901cbd3a1$d0889b00$7199d100$@com>
Message-ID: <96479A813F264951B3BFB908C810A855@PetePC>

We have the same her in the Tampa, FL area.  They are only open one day a 
month, but they take everything including electronics.  I've taken 5 gallon 
jugs of diesel oil mix with absolutely no problems.  It is also totally 
free.
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roger Wilson" <rjwilson1250 at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Disposing of parts cleaning solution Re: What do you use 
to clean greasy parts?


> In California many counties run Household Hazardous Waste Centers. This is 
> a
> totally free service and they will take new and used solvents, oil, paint,
> old batteries, etc. It is best to go on line and check what they take and
> their schedules. Because of budget issues, they are typically open only a
> few days a week and sometimes it is on alternate weekends. It is a great
> service and a good way to get rid of hazardous stuff responsibly. I have
> worked on the design of several of these facilities, so I am a bit biased.
> Roger
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Innis
> Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:00 AM
> To: aribert at c3net.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Disposing of parts cleaning solution Re: What do you use
> to clean greasy parts?
>
> When I lived in Indy the local Safety Kleen would take small
> quantities from non-commercial users for free.  Where I am now I have
> to take it to the local pollution prevention center( aka landfill) and
> pay a disposal fee.  The fee is annoying, but not enough to make me
> want to look for other options.
>


From agraham at execulink.com  Wed Feb 23 15:30:00 2011
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 17:30:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 brake caliper question.
Message-ID: <4D658A68.4080803@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Just have a question about repairing a stripped thread on a Girling 
caliper. I have the caliper that uses the triangular metal tabs to hold 
the pads in the caliper.
The top small 1/4" in. bolt hole that holds the bolt for the tab is 
stripped. I thought of opening the hole out to accept a 5/16" NF bolt, 
but not sure about this as the hole is close to the center line/split of 
the caliper. Any problems with opening this hole out?
The hole is not stripped too badly. Would it accept a 1/4" coarse tap? 
Even using a Heli-coil would require opening the hole out to at least 9/32".
Any experiences with this repair?
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham


From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Feb 23 15:39:32 2011
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 16:39:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <4D62FC40CBA64008B59F493634CDB363@D6254Z51>
References: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
	<4D62FC40CBA64008B59F493634CDB363@D6254Z51>
Message-ID: <201102231439101.SM04508@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Before I invested in a tumbler using Safety Kleen, I took all the big 
stuff to the local car wash. They have the traps and detergents 
already figured out, and the high pressure nozzle works well. Really 
heavy cleaning can be helped with Easy Off oven cleaner. (lye I believe)

	Peter C 


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 23 16:04:00 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 15:04:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 brake caliper question.
In-Reply-To: <4D658A68.4080803@execulink.com>
References: <4D658A68.4080803@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <536748.19700.qm@web120212.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Angelo
you could tap it out to a 7mm x 1mm size.
its just a hair bigger
Frank




________________________________
From: Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, February 23, 2011 2:30:00 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 brake caliper question.

Hello List:
Just have a question about repairing a stripped thread on a Girling caliper. I 
have the caliper that uses the triangular metal tabs to hold the pads in the 
caliper.
The top small 1/4" in. bolt hole that holds the bolt for the tab is stripped. I 
thought of opening the hole out to accept a 5/16" NF bolt, but not sure about 
this as the hole is close to the center line/split of the caliper. Any problems 
with opening this hole out?
The hole is not stripped too badly. Would it accept a 1/4" coarse tap? Even 
using a Heli-coil would require opening the hole out to at least 9/32".
Any experiences with this repair?
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 23 16:21:12 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 15:21:12 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 brake caliper question.
In-Reply-To: <4D658A68.4080803@execulink.com>
References: <4D658A68.4080803@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <0ebc01cbd3b0$5cefdf00$16cf9d00$@rr.com>

I put a Helicoil in one, long ago.  Seemed to work fine.

Probably tapping oversize would work OK too, I just dislike being my own DPO
when I can help it.

-- Randall 


From timtucker at comcast.net  Wed Feb 23 16:04:10 2011
From: timtucker at comcast.net (Tim Tucker)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 18:04:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <1916786212.1453189.1298475185038.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D102C74CC4BA4A029A4D7EA4DF1AF61D@SAGERLAPTOP>

I used Crystal Simple Green in mine. I'm pleased with the results. It
doesn't work as well as the flammable alternatives from my time in the
shops. I placed the parts in the solution and let them soak for awhile. Time
can be a friend...:)
Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tom & Marge
FitzGibbon
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:33 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?


Just curious. Does anyone use a parts washer? If so, what cleaning solution
do you use in the parts washer?


Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:07:48 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?

turpentine.
don't know if its environmentally correct but it works
Frank




________________________________
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, February 23, 2011 4:35:42 AM
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?

I just tore down my nasty greasy engine. I took the big parts with the
block to the machine shop and am getting those cleaned with the block.

I used to use gasoline to clean parts - but pretty sure that's not the way
to go today, With everything I have I think there would be a case of brake
cleaner or more to get the hardware, etc clean.

What are you using to clean parts?

Thanks

Chris
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/timtucker at comcast.net




From greg at gelhar.com  Wed Feb 23 17:25:10 2011
From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg  Gelhar)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 18:25:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Third brake light
References: <4D658A68.4080803@execulink.com>
	<0ebc01cbd3b0$5cefdf00$16cf9d00$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <007001cbd3b9$507115b0$0a01a8c0@triumph>

I am looking for pictures of a well thought out installation of a third 
brake light for my TR6. I want to help drivers behind me to be aware of my 
presence. Has anyone added this feature to their cars? Any photos or links 
are appreciated.


Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
Osseo, MN 


From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Feb 23 19:21:21 2011
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 21:21:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Disposing of parts cleaning solution Re: What do you use
 to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <000901cbd3a1$d0889b00$7199d100$@com>
References: <mailman.12875.1298478042.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>	<dfe29259d5bb5fdc99df2d4d90b23e9e.squirrel@server6.glis.net>	<AANLkTi=AS=Q=--jOcuxuU-5UjZ=2=eFCBqcmT3LqhC6r@mail.gmail.com>
	<000901cbd3a1$d0889b00$7199d100$@com>
Message-ID: <4D65C0A1.4070102@charter.net>

On 2/23/2011 4:37 PM, Roger Wilson wrote:
> In California many counties run Household Hazardous Waste Centers. This is a
> totally free service and they will take new and used solvents, oil, paint,
> old batteries, etc.

Speaking as someone who pays thousands of dollars each year to be rid of 
tiny quantities of nasty stuff, this is a ~great~ deal.  Please take 
advantage of it - whatevery you clean nasty stuff with, please dispose 
of it properly.

I've got an old jug of solvent cleaner at home; at work we found a jug 
of some kind of biodegradable stuff that mixes with water.  It's OK, but 
for the tough stuff, you can't beat solvent.

Jeff Scarbrough
Squeaky Clean Acres, Ga.

From agraham at execulink.com  Wed Feb 23 19:45:10 2011
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 21:45:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 front wheel bearing adjustment
Message-ID: <4D65C636.50401@execulink.com>

Hello List:
A question on adjusting front wheel bearings. Should you remove the 
brake pads before adjusting the bearings? Working with other makes, it 
was often recommended to remove pads.
Following the manual and the rest of the adjustment procedure makes sense.
Thanks in advance.
Angelo Graham


From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Feb 23 20:37:03 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 21:37:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <322761C7B5984D6E82A4CD74D474AD69@Vista>
References: <mailman.12875.1298478042.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net><1F839D0C-A05B-4A95-AD79-7BBC069ED78F@mgcarclub.com>
	<322761C7B5984D6E82A4CD74D474AD69@Vista>
Message-ID: <507E8523DD7F49E99AF55F2E333EA5D0@ranteer.local>

?for hands, and getting grease off in smaller quantities, or for cleaning where its just dirty or maybe greasy, baby wipes work really well.

they are also excellent for cleaning the fenders, etc in the engine bay.  follow with a microfiber towel for a shiny engine compartment!

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Feb 23 22:31:17 2011
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2011 23:31:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] F. T.
Message-ID: <0B433DBFB1A443AAAF86F30F234D3627@0817C93C637E473>

received today from Fred's wife, Debra:

Just let everyone know that Fred has had a setback of sorts and is in the hospital indefinitely

Ken Gano

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Feb 23 23:24:57 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 00:24:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 front wheel bearing adjustment
In-Reply-To: <4D65C636.50401@execulink.com>
References: <4D65C636.50401@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <20110224062456.AF0AA18764F@autox.team.net>

Won't hurt - you could at least push the pads away from the rotor a 
bit so they aren't dragging.  That makes sure you can really feel any 
play.  I always adjust the bearing before putting pads in the caliper 
or reattaching the caliper to its bracket.

- Tony

At 08:45 PM 2/23/2011, Angelo Graham wrote:
>Hello List:
>A question on adjusting front wheel bearings. Should you remove the 
>brake pads before adjusting the bearings? Working with other makes, 
>it was often recommended to remove pads.
>Following the manual and the rest of the adjustment procedure makes sense.
>Thanks in advance.
>Angelo Graham



From dlylis at gmail.com  Thu Feb 24 00:41:42 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 02:41:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimdjnzKRX5cvrRyJvOfOTFYTHP6qTtc+ay5vDYy@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=9Mp=gu2TxiibLrumb9VE1hv5FpXjfOgb-7qk8@mail.gmail.com>

I use odorless paint thinner.  I bought a metal pan that goes under a water
heater and put it on a table.  When parts are clean  I put the liquid back
into a clear plastic 1 gal Cranberry Juice bottle (sans Cranberry Juice),
and let the solids settle out and use it again.  When it is too dirty I haul
it off to local recycling.  Parts dry fairly quickly, and the stuff,
although flammable, is nowhere near as dangerous as gasoline.

I highly recommend getting a plastic garden sprayer and putting a fitting on
the top/side to connect an air hose.  This requires a valve so you can
GENTLY introduce air pressure and have a squirter to use with the setup
described above.  GENTLY is a KEY word here and it saves you from repeatedly
having  to pump up the sprayer.

I cleaned my TR3A block this way as it fits right over the pan while mounted
on the engine stand.

On Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 7:35 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:

> I just tore down my nasty greasy engine.  I took the big parts with the
> block to the machine shop and am getting those cleaned with the block.
>
> I used to use gasoline to clean parts - but pretty sure that's not the way
> to go today,  With everything I have I think there would be a case of brake
> cleaner or more to get the hardware, etc clean.
>
> What are you using to clean parts?
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com
>
>

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Feb 24 09:05:08 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 09:05:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 brake caliper question.
In-Reply-To: <0ebc01cbd3b0$5cefdf00$16cf9d00$@rr.com>
References: <4D658A68.4080803@execulink.com>
	<0ebc01cbd3b0$5cefdf00$16cf9d00$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=Q-L8pQwDaWvnTviwytVjk2MtYe7Dnuwmh78BV@mail.gmail.com>

I have never used that thread restoring product by Loctite but this
would seem to me to be a possible solution.  Though necessary, that
little bolt isn't a real critical component and that triangle of sheet
metal it holds wouldn't seem to require much force to keep it in
place.

This stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-236382-Thread-Stripped-Thread/dp/B002KGEOFY

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Feb 24 09:11:18 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 09:11:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Third brake light
In-Reply-To: <007001cbd3b9$507115b0$0a01a8c0@triumph>
References: <4D658A68.4080803@execulink.com>
	<0ebc01cbd3b0$5cefdf00$16cf9d00$@rr.com>
	<007001cbd3b9$507115b0$0a01a8c0@triumph>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinkrGS7PuHPyd6uK1q_TKp2yZ5CdAiPEktpZ9o0@mail.gmail.com>

On 2/23/11, Greg  Gelhar <greg at gelhar.com> wrote:
> I am looking for pictures of a well thought out installation of a third
> brake light for my TR6...

Since add-on 3rd lights are (at best) non-original and (at worst)
fugly -- I use one that can be removed when I don't want it there.  It
is 1/2 of a set of magnetic towing lights connected to the harness
with a couple of bullet connectors for quick detachment.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/3rd%20Brake%20Light.JPG

I did add a soft cloth pad (made from an old sweatshirt) to protect
the paint as I doubted that plastic bottom would not scratch.  Also a
good idea to keep that spot well-waxed and dust it off before setting
th light in place.

Geo

Geo

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Feb 24 09:38:05 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 08:38:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] F. T.
In-Reply-To: <0B433DBFB1A443AAAF86F30F234D3627@0817C93C637E473>
References: <0B433DBFB1A443AAAF86F30F234D3627@0817C93C637E473>
Message-ID: <463867.15292.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

any one live close to Fred that could loan him a lap top for a few weeks. im 
sure he would love to keep up rather than watch hospital TV.
where does Fred live?
Frank



________________________________
From: "Ken Gano, home PC" <triumphs at consolidated.net>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, February 23, 2011 9:31:17 PM
Subject: [TR] F. T.

received today from Fred's wife, Debra:

Just let everyone know that Fred has had a setback of sorts and is in the 
hospital indefinitely

Ken Gano
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Feb 24 09:40:27 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 08:40:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Third brake light
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinkrGS7PuHPyd6uK1q_TKp2yZ5CdAiPEktpZ9o0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4D658A68.4080803@execulink.com>
	<0ebc01cbd3b0$5cefdf00$16cf9d00$@rr.com>
	<007001cbd3b9$507115b0$0a01a8c0@triumph>
	<AANLkTinkrGS7PuHPyd6uK1q_TKp2yZ5CdAiPEktpZ9o0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <862501.72086.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Geo
is that a chrome or stainless rack on your trunk?
;-)
Frank




________________________________
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, February 24, 2011 8:11:18 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Third brake light

On 2/23/11, Greg? Gelhar <greg at gelhar.com> wrote:
> I am looking for pictures of a well thought out installation of a third
> brake light for my TR6...

Since add-on 3rd lights are (at best) non-original and (at worst)
fugly -- I use one that can be removed when I don't want it there.? It
is 1/2 of a set of magnetic towing lights connected to the harness
with a couple of bullet connectors for quick detachment.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/3rd%20Brake%20Light.JPG

I did add a soft cloth pad (made from an old sweatshirt) to protect
the paint as I doubted that plastic bottom would not scratch.? Also a
good idea to keep that spot well-waxed and dust it off before setting
th light in place.

Geo

Geo
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Feb 24 09:45:20 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 10:45:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Third brake light
Message-ID: <1772908745.167746.1298565920966.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

My Plan:
The same could be built using LED aftermarket units.  Magnet strip added to the bottom if not purchased that way  The electric lead goes into the trunk and connects with brake wires.    I am planning for mine to be at the trailing edge of the trunk so that I don't have to worry about being blocked by something on the luggage rack.   Removal will be to just open trunk and drop it in.  May add a on/off switch at the wire connection rather than bullet or spade connectors.
 
Carl
Feb 24, 2011 04:24:53 PM, ahwahneetr at gmail.com wrote:

On 2/23/11, Greg Gelhar wrote:
> I am looking for pictures of a well thought out installation of a third
> brake light for my TR6...

Since add-on 3rd lights are (at best) non-original and (at worst)
fugly -- I use one that can be removed when I don't want it there. It
is 1/2 of a set of magnetic towing lights connected to the harness
with a couple of bullet connectors for quick detachment.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/3rd%20Brake%20Light.JPG

I did add a soft cloth pad (made from an old sweatshirt) to protect
the paint as I doubted that plastic bottom would not scratch. Also a
good idea to keep that spot well-waxed and dust it off before setting
th light in place.

Geo


From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Thu Feb 24 12:10:58 2011
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 11:10:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Third brake light
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD64734@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Geez, I usually stay out of these, but before you put that ugly light on
check out Moss # 116-115.  Chrome plated zinc, with a lot of led's
inside.  Has a removable base to aid in mounting wherever, has long
wires to reach anywhere.  Some friends have them on their cars - love
them! Use your imagination to make it removable.

I think this link will get you there:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=52165&Sort
Order=1

 

Peter - 71 TR6

 

 

 


From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Feb 24 12:23:39 2011
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 11:23:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 in March Road & Track
Message-ID: <91703.1275.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     A friend at work loaned me his March Road & Track. In "Side Glances" (page 28) there is a fun article called "The TR-3 That Was Lee's". It's about a guy that passed away that still has his first car, a yellow TR-3A.
     The article had a classic line - "...and you can't treat them like ordinary scrap. A worn-out Maytag and a worn-out Triumph aren't the same thing. Yes, I know the Maytag was better engineered and needed less repair, but that's not the point".
     Road & Track has kind of abandoned me about 20 years ago and few things in the magazine interest me at all.

     Bill in Tehachapi
     Sierra storm warning tonight
     

From edwd at ti.com  Thu Feb 24 12:41:51 2011
From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 13:41:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] FT
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1298574001.22445.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1298574001.22445.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F12EBA124C6E064B9CF1B45E67DDB7E7C6935C92@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

The last I knew Fred and his wife lived in Virginia but I don't know where exactly.  A kind and generous man he is, and I wish I knew how to help him from here.

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx




From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Feb 24 12:47:59 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 13:47:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] [SPAM]  TR6 Third brake light
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD64734@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD64734@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <6EA28ED3049B401191FFF2C23DAF5443@ranteer.local>

?supposedly (and I say that because I read it on the net) the effectiveness of the third brake light is substantially improved if it flashes 

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Feb 24 12:52:16 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 19:52:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <D102C74CC4BA4A029A4D7EA4DF1AF61D@SAGERLAPTOP>
Message-ID: <1299657035.1491832.1298577136519.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I don't have any personal experiance, but I am told not to use Simple Green on aluminum.

I have had the same kerosene in my parts washer forever.

Hand cleaner is handy for parts too large or still connected to the car to use the parts washer.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "Tim Tucker" <timtucker at comcast.net>
> To: "Tom & Marge FitzGibbon" <fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 5:04:10 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
> 
> I used Crystal Simple Green in mine. I'm pleased with the results. It
> doesn't work as well as the flammable alternatives from my time in
> the
> shops. I placed the parts in the solution and let them soak for
> awhile. Time
> can be a friend...:)

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Feb 24 14:41:52 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 13:41:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 in March Road & Track
In-Reply-To: <91703.1275.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <91703.1275.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <207355.13251.qm@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Read the whole issue on a plane 2 weeks ago.
its a great story of the TR3.
i too don't normally like Road and Track but that issue was especially good 
reading for a change
frank




________________________________
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, February 24, 2011 11:23:39 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 in March Road & Track

? ? A friend at work loaned me his March Road & Track. In "Side Glances" (page 
28) there is a fun article called "The TR-3 That Was Lee's". It's about a guy 
that passed away that still has his first car, a yellow TR-3A.
? ? The article had a classic line - "...and you can't treat them like ordinary 
scrap. A worn-out Maytag and a worn-out Triumph aren't the same thing. Yes, I 
know the Maytag was better engineered and needed less repair, but that's not the 
point".
? ? Road & Track has kind of abandoned me about 20 years ago and few things in 
the magazine interest me at all.

? ? Bill in Tehachapi
? ? Sierra storm warning tonight
? ? 
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 24 15:38:03 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 14:38:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] What do you use to clean greasy parts?
In-Reply-To: <1299657035.1491832.1298577136519.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <D102C74CC4BA4A029A4D7EA4DF1AF61D@SAGERLAPTOP>
	<1299657035.1491832.1298577136519.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0fbc01cbd473$7fee1cb0$7fca5610$@rr.com>

> I don't have any personal experiance, but I am told not to use Simple
> Green on aluminum.

Another almost-myth, IMO.  Simple Green is quite alkaline, and long-term
exposure to it can promote relatively minor corrosion in aluminum.  So the
"trick" is to be sure that all of the SG gets flushed away, especially if
you are using it on thin sheet aluminum.

The FAA banned its use on aircraft because it was seeping into the joints
and staying there.

-- Randall 


From tr4boy at att.net  Thu Feb 24 15:54:04 2011
From: tr4boy at att.net (Greg Schuett)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 14:54:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tr-4 diff cover...
Message-ID: <682767.85705.qm@web83703.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Folks,
I'm planning to replace the gasket for the diff cover on my 64 tr-4.? There is a welded clip on the cover that holds the rear brake line tight to the cover. I thought I'd just pry open the clip and pop the line out, but I can't get the clip to spread open. any thoughts on how to free up this line ? I guess I could remove the line at the slave cylinders but I don't really want to open the braking system just to change out the gasket...am? I missing something?

thanks,
Greg



From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Feb 24 17:04:08 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 17:04:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 in March Road & Track
In-Reply-To: <91703.1275.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <91703.1275.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinWJRoPkpnMZMY_JF=GvBBPTS=7WNH+FFKux=7w@mail.gmail.com>

On 2/24/11, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:
>                ...A worn-out Maytag and a worn-out Triumph aren't the same
> thing. Yes, I know the Maytag was better engineered and needed less repair,
> but that's not the point...

I read and enjoyed the article -- then less than a week later the
motor on the Maytag washer died.  Got a used replacement on eBay for
30 bucks, but around our house for dead motors it's Maytag-1
Triumph-0.

Geo

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Feb 24 20:39:49 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 19:39:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] road and track
Message-ID: <271843.10533.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I continue to subscribe to road and track and find that it's almost worth it 
just for Peter Egan's column each month.  He's very down to earth and his 
interest is focused on old foreign sports cars which is nice.  I also find that 
road and track usually has several other articles each month relating to vintage 
cars which makes it a little more interesting.  Peter is a writer that actually 
writes about busting his knuckles on various projects.

gary n.


      

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Feb 24 21:12:14 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 21:12:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] FT
In-Reply-To: <F12EBA124C6E064B9CF1B45E67DDB7E7C6935C92@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
References: <mailman.5.1298574001.22445.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<F12EBA124C6E064B9CF1B45E67DDB7E7C6935C92@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <25C7A3AD-F124-4D20-8050-7D9627CE52E5@comcast.net>

Fred's and his wife live in Stafford VA which is south of Quantico  
just east of I-95.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Feb 24, 2011, at 12:41 PM, Fisher, Ed wrote:

> The last I knew Fred and his wife lived in Virginia but I don't know  
> where exactly.  A kind and generous man he is, and I wish I knew how  
> to help him from here.
>
> Ed Fisher
> Dallas, Tx
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net
>


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 24 23:20:44 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 22:20:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] tr-4 diff cover...
In-Reply-To: <682767.85705.qm@web83703.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <682767.85705.qm@web83703.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <163001cbd4b4$22c63d10$0301a8c0@randall>

> I thought I'd just pry 
> open the clip and pop the line out, but I can't get the clip 
> to spread open. any thoughts on how to free up this line ?

One of these spread the clip on my TR3 with no problem :
http://tinyurl.com/4qjnawz

-- Randall  


From aribert at c3net.net  Fri Feb 25 06:11:07 2011
From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 08:11:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Third brake light
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1298574001.22445.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1298574001.22445.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <c4dd21c64a79e9c097a5af4c9adbd930.squirrel@server6.glis.net>

As an aside:  Recently I drove behind an ambulance and every time the
ambulance driver touched the brakes, the stop lights would flash twice
(very quickly) before staying on for the duration of the braking period -
that double flash really got my attention.  I wonder what kind of an add
on circuit they used for the brake lights and how it might work on an LBC





> My Plan:
> The same could be built using LED aftermarket units.  Magnet strip added
> to the bottom if not purchased that way  The electric lead goes into the
> trunk and connects with brake wires.    I am planning for mine to be at
> the trailing edge of the trunk so that I don't have to worry about being
> blocked by something on the luggage rack.   Removal will be to just open
> trunk and drop it in.  May add a on/off switch at the wire connection
> rather than bullet or spade connectors.
>
> Carl
> Feb 24, 2011 04:24:53 PM, ahwahneetr at gmail.com wrote:
>
> On 2/23/11, Greg Gelhar wrote:
>> I am looking for pictures of a well thought out installation of a third
>> brake light for my TR6...
>
> Since add-on 3rd lights are (at best) non-original and (at worst)
> fugly -- I use one that can be removed when I don't want it there. It
> is 1/2 of a set of magnetic towing lights connected to the harness
> with a couple of bullet connectors for quick detachment.
>
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/3rd%20Brake%20Light.JPG
>
> I did add a soft cloth pad (made from an old sweatshirt) to protect
> the paint as I doubted that plastic bottom would not scratch. Also a
> good idea to keep that spot well-waxed and dust it off before setting
> th light in place.
>
> Geo
>
>
>



From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com  Fri Feb 25 06:59:43 2011
From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 08:59:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 tie rod lever (steering arm)
Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425272E5B2033@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>

I'm in the process of gathering parts for my CT26545 TR4 in hopes of assembling the front suspension.
My parts car is an earlier, Ct5908. Many of the front suspension components have changed.
One part that eludes me is the tie rod lever (steering arm) [moss part # 661-190].
The part is N/A from the big three and I'm trying to figure out if I can utilize one from the earlier TR4, and if so what is the impact?

Thank you

Peter
201.571.8303
551.427.1178

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri Feb 25 09:05:33 2011
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 11:05:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] 250 Silver Stripe Paint Code?
Message-ID: <1f5e7.6103008a.3a992d4d@aol.com>

 
Hey Guys,
Anyone have a code for the stripe?  Hallelujah!  She is getting  real close 
to being done. Been back on the road for test drives.  All  New in Royal 
Blue the Silver Stripe is the last thing to do.
Cheers,
Darrell

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Feb 25 09:32:41 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 09:32:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Spal Fan Question
In-Reply-To: <606395.79523.qm@web65606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <606395.79523.qm@web65606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1A6DAFF8-52BA-410F-8E25-8C8FAA2C4CB2@comcast.net>

While trying to figure out how to mount a 16 inch Permacool fan to my  
TR6 radiator I discovered with just a bit of torque I could get it  
inside of the the side pieces of the radiator and flush to the fins.   
I put four of the the little cushion feet on the fan and "popped" the  
fan inside the side pieces and right next to the fins.  I realized it  
was such a good fit that I was done.  No screws, no fasteners through  
the fins or the radiator, or anything to hold it in place.  It wasn't  
going anywhere, especially with the crossmember about 1/8 of an inch  
away from the fan motor housing.  Have run it that way for about 3-4  
years with no problem.  Sitting right "on" the fins provides for a  
very efficient pull of air through the radiator and optimal cooling.   
Makes for a nice clean installation and provides a mystery for anyone  
looking closely at it wondering how it's attached to the  
radiator...its not.  Could be a serendipidous occurance just for my  
radiator but it might work for others.  Oh and my sensor is near upper  
hose as others have suggested.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Feb 25, 2011, at 8:28 AM, Bruce Simms wrote:

> Steve:
>
>
> I recall a few years ago some guys were attaching a 16" Permacool fan
> to the
> edge of a stock rad with sheet metal screws.
>
> How are you doing the
> thermostat hookup? From what I've heard the better
> location seems to be the
> bottom of the rad or the coolant return pipe.
>
> Let us know what you did.   A
> job I'll do someday.
>
> Bruce Simms
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net
>


From tr4zest at gmail.com  Fri Feb 25 10:18:31 2011
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 12:18:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Third Brake Light - flashing
Message-ID: <AANLkTik6c8U+4vZh+W5RcsNcCeAFtRd5rqW1WPo=PAxR@mail.gmail.com>

Flasher modules are available. I'm not aware of any regulation that would
prevent their use:

http://www.amazon.com/FLASHER-MODULE-MOTORCYCLE-SCOOTER-REARALERT/dp/B0036RFLR6

Many motorcyclists have found the value in flashing brake lights. Here is a
format that includes the flasher and bright LED lights. In this instance,
the light modules, which are waterproof, could be used to form the third
light and they would flash. The other two brake lights would behave
normally, unless a module such as above were used.

http://www.aerostich.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=brake+light+flasher

Regards,

Brian

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Feb 25 10:31:12 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 10:31:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Best Supplier for Hood, Stick Cover and Tonneau
Message-ID: <BDEAB982D0C14A5489934F49D49ACBB7@bboffice>

The car is looking pretty good but he Tonneau is stained, the Hood is split
and the Stick Cover is down right embarrassing.
 
I noticed that TRF seems to have some decent prices on all three right now,
I want to get them all at the same time from the same vendor, but Moss does
not carry the stick cover in white.
 
I am looking for the white vinyl, similar to original and least cost
supplier.  I checked with a local auto upholstery guy who does this sort of
thing  and I think he just got the TRF prices and doubled them and then
added his labor on top of that.   Is the Robbins material the best on the
market at this time?  What is the opinion of The List in as far as cost, fit
and ease of installation for a reasonably talented amateur?
 
TIA,
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 25 11:03:19 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 10:03:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Third brake light
In-Reply-To: <c4dd21c64a79e9c097a5af4c9adbd930.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
References: <mailman.4.1298574001.22445.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<c4dd21c64a79e9c097a5af4c9adbd930.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
Message-ID: <168f01cbd516$48f42df0$0301a8c0@randall>

>  I wonder what 
> kind of an add
> on circuit they used for the brake lights and how it might 
> work on an LBC

I didn't find that particular pattern, but a quick Google turned up all
sorts of brake light flasher add-ons.  Seems like most of them flash 6 times
rather than just twice.  Eg,
http://www.flashingbrakelights.com/

Probably would require negative ground, but I'm guessing that otherwise they
would be an easy add-on to a LBC.

-- Randall  


From carlsereda at aol.com  Fri Feb 25 14:12:03 2011
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 13:12:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] Tr4 diff cover
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13336.1298642381.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <405B392D.380F.4B6D.9024.E6488D14FD1D@aol.com>

Greg,
Randall's idea should work. I think I grasped tab open with locking 
jaw pliers way back when, and just barely pried open tab enough to 
release the brake line (certainly don't want to snap the tab off!).

Good luck,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74


I'm planning to replace the gasket for the diff cover on my 64 tr-4.? 
There is a welded clip on the cover that holds the rear brake line 
tight to the cover. I thought I'd just pry open the clip and pop the 
line out, but I can't get the clip to spread open. any thoughts on how 
to free up this line ?


From Catpusher at aol.com  Fri Feb 25 16:28:36 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 18:28:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  rear oil seal TR3 In Place
Message-ID: <7fc3f.46004c38.3a999524@aol.com>

My last post about changing a standard rear crank seal in place did not get 
 posted to the list, I hope that this one makes it.
 
It can be done, and with the early TR2/3 flywheel  it can be done with  the 
gearbox and flywheel in place.
The later flywheel has to be removed to clear the rear main cap and  
attached seal.  The basic procedure is to align the cap half of the seal to  the 
cap with the correct alignment tool:  2.818" dia. inside a good  seal;
scribe alignment marks across the seal split line to the upper half of the  
seal to position the upper half once it is in place.  All the normal  steps 
must be taken to clean and seal the project.  This is not an  enjoyable 
job, but I have done it to save another TR owner.  I used the  standard rear 
crank seal for 25 seasons of Nationally racing my TR3, and the  only issue was 
created by the TR2/3 and TR4 Factory Manual having the incorrect  size 
where the alignment tool fits inside the seal I.D.
 
Hardy
 

From:  Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal  TR3

has any  one attempted to change out the modern rear oil seal on the TR3 
motor?
i  know trans comes out.
tough job im  sure.
impossible?
Frank

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 25 16:41:21 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 15:41:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] Subject:  rear oil seal TR3 In Place
In-Reply-To: <7fc3f.46004c38.3a999524@aol.com>
References: <7fc3f.46004c38.3a999524@aol.com>
Message-ID: <16d001cbd545$82205d90$0301a8c0@randall>

> My last post about changing a standard rear crank seal 
<snip>
> and with the early TR2/3 flywheel  it can be 
> done with  the 
> gearbox and flywheel in place.

I'm having a hard time visualizing this : How do you get the bolts out (and
back in) of the upper half of the seal, with the flywheel in the way ?

-- Randall  


From Catpusher at aol.com  Fri Feb 25 17:04:48 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 19:04:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  rear oil seal TR3 In Place
Message-ID: <81231.74afcec9.3a999d9f@aol.com>

Randall, always a pleasure to hear from you.  The time I did it with  the 
flywheel in place was on the race car with an alloy flywheel that might have  
had a little extra room. We may have shortened the set screws and perhaps  
removed the crank thrust washers. Not ideal for the timing chain tensioner,  
but we made the race.
 The last time was on a street TR4A, and the gearbox and flywheel  had to 
be removed.  I might take a couple of images and produce an article  if there 
is enough interest. Tony D might post it on his site.
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 2/25/2011 3:41:28 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

> My  last post about changing a standard rear crank seal 
<snip>
>  and with the early TR2/3 flywheel  it can be 
> done with  the  
> gearbox and flywheel in place.

I'm having a hard time  visualizing this : How do you get the bolts out (and
back in) of the upper  half of the seal, with the flywheel in the way ?

-- Randall   


From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Sat Feb 26 08:37:37 2011
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (Martin Secrest)
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2011 10:37:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Removing Front Grease Caps/GT6?
Message-ID: <6A352CB3A43B423EA27BC2FC942491CA@MartinPC>

It's been so long since I did this I forget the tutorial and getting the caps off the front hubs without damage.  I replaced the bearings and they need adjusting.  Oof.

--
Martin Secrest
73 GT6
72 TR6
Arlington, VA.  

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Sat Feb 26 10:22:58 2011
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (Martin Secrest)
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2011 12:22:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Removing Front Grease Caps/GT6?
In-Reply-To: <E3E76CF1-066E-4FA2-8FA3-E81F2A5439E8@comcast.net>
References: <6A352CB3A43B423EA27BC2FC942491CA@MartinPC>
	<E3E76CF1-066E-4FA2-8FA3-E81F2A5439E8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <9634ACB3E9A447FC9B678C754C1E610A@MartinPC>

Thanks folks .. the right toothy channel lock on the lip got them off. 
Harder than I remember it being, but they went back in gently ...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
To: "Martin Secrest" <moira.secrest at verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2011 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Front Grease Caps/GT6?


> Needle nose vise grips always work for me.
>
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> On Feb 26, 2011, at 8:37 AM, Martin Secrest wrote:
>
>> It's been so long since I did this I forget the tutorial and getting  the 
>> caps off the front hubs without damage.  I replaced the bearings  and 
>> they need adjusting.  Oof.
>>
>> --
>> Martin Secrest
>> 73 GT6
>> 72 TR6
>> Arlington, VA.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Manage your account: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net
>>
> 


From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Feb 26 19:50:40 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2011 19:50:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Vendor "Sales"
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikK16sLmr2mMUJvHiPjKb1HYE0zL9zUMFUiAq9N@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikK16sLmr2mMUJvHiPjKb1HYE0zL9zUMFUiAq9N@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E66AA36AEA340C383643D78DA41E135@bboffice>

Price probably will not go down in April, but just from opinions expressed
on this list in the past, I would also look to buying the Dayton wires as
opposed to the Dunlops that "M" would sell you. 

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Benjamin Zwissler
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 7:44 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Vendor "Sales"

This is mostly a rant so feel free to stop reading here......

I've been waiting for a good winter sale to buy new wire wheels for my TR4A.
So I was happy to get the "Buy More Save More" email from a supplier, lets
call them "M", promising 15% off orders over $1000.  I read the fine print
to see what's excluded, find nothing excluding wire wheels, and then go to
"M's" website preparing to order.  When I get to the price list I find that
the price of the wheels has gone up nearly 15% since I checked last in
January (15x4.5" 60 spoke painted wheels were $208, now are $236). There is
no real "sale".

Anyway, I guess I shoudn't be surprised by this, its certainly not the only
time a retailer has been misleading with this kind of sale, but I am a
disappointed customer.  For now my money is staying in my pocket.  The sale
is in effect until April 1st so the question is whether the sale is simply a
delay of a price increase or will prices magically go back down after the
"sale" is over.

Ben.....
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From tr6.guy at verizon.net  Sun Feb 27 06:31:01 2011
From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein)
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 08:31:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Removing Front Grease Caps/GT6?
Message-ID: <ED95DBDA2A0F4B61BE07EEB7A9465CF1@mommystoyii>

Martin,
 
Here's a better technique that won't mark up the cap.  It works on my TR6
and TR8 so I suspect it will work on the GT6.  Screw in a #10 bolt into the
hole of the cap, about a 1" or so long bolt will do with a fine thread.  It
will seat on the stub axle end and slowly extract the cap.
 
Gary
 
Gary
'75 TR6
'80 TR8 w/ A/C
Severn, MD
Digest
 
----------------
 
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2011 12:22:58 -0500
From: "Martin Secrest" <moira.secrest at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Front Grease Caps/GT6?
To: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Thanks folks .. the right toothy channel lock on the lip got them off. 
Harder than I remember it being, but they went back in gently ...


From brianharlan at scrtc.com  Sun Feb 27 07:53:01 2011
From: brianharlan at scrtc.com (Brian Harlan)
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 08:53:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] Valve Seals
Message-ID: <4D6A654D.7010803@scrtc.com>

Hello everyone,

This is my first posting to this list. Just a little introduction of myself:
My name is Brian Harlan, live in Munfordville (south-central Kentucky), 
I bought a 68 Spit Mk 3 last fall to restore, I have also acquired a 70 
Spit Mk3 parts car. Currently, I am rebuilding the engine of the 68 (FE 
series). Here's my question:

What's the deal with seals on the valve stems? The head off of the 68 
had no seals. The head off of the 70 doesn't either. Neither my Haynes, 
nor my Bentley shop manuals mention them, but VB lists them with their 
valve train rebuild listings. I ordered a set along with the valves, 
valve guides, springs, etc., but now that I am at the point of 
re-assembling the head, I am questioning the need for them. They are 
basically rubber O-rings, but there is no groove on the valve stem to 
hold them. Anybody have a suggestion to use them or not. Were they 
original on the FE series engines? Were they a later addition? Anybody 
have experience with this type, if so, what do you recommend?

Thanks for any help provided,
Brian

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Feb 27 08:07:36 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 08:07:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Valve Seals
In-Reply-To: <4D6A654D.7010803@scrtc.com>
References: <4D6A654D.7010803@scrtc.com>
Message-ID: <7FB14F44DF9D4D069138E7B37E2037C1@bboffice>

Welcome to the list Brian, I am sure you will have a lot of BTDT Spit
experience to share in the future.  

I'll defer your question to some engine guy though.

All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Harlan
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 7:53 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Valve Seals

Hello everyone,

This is my first posting to this list. Just a little introduction of myself:
My name is Brian Harlan, live in Munfordville (south-central Kentucky), I
bought a 68 Spit Mk 3 last fall to restore, I have also acquired a 70 Spit
Mk3 parts car. Currently, I am rebuilding the engine of the 68 (FE series).
Here's my question:

What's the deal with seals on the valve stems? The head off of the 68 had no
seals. The head off of the 70 doesn't either. Neither my Haynes, nor my
Bentley shop manuals mention them, but VB lists them with their valve train
rebuild listings. I ordered a set along with the valves, valve guides,
springs, etc., but now that I am at the point of re-assembling the head, I
am questioning the need for them. They are basically rubber O-rings, but
there is no groove on the valve stem to hold them. Anybody have a suggestion
to use them or not. Were they original on the FE series engines? Were they a
later addition? Anybody have experience with this type, if so, what do you
recommend?

Thanks for any help provided,
Brian
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Feb 27 09:06:05 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 11:06:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Valve Seals
In-Reply-To: <4D6A654D.7010803@scrtc.com>
References: <4D6A654D.7010803@scrtc.com>
Message-ID: <201102271106.06521.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Brian,

Again, I am not a Spitfire expert but it the Spit engine is anything like a 3, 
4 or 6 there are no seals on the valve stems if the engine is stock.

I have heard of seal kits for 6's but no experience here. My 72 is stock and 
all I did was install hardened exhaust seats and bronze guides. Same with my 3 
and 4.

There are many Spitfire experts on this list so I am guessing you will get 
some expert replies soon.

Best of luck and welcome to our world!

Bob

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Feb 27 10:15:08 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 10:15:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Removing Front Grease Caps/GT6?
In-Reply-To: <ED95DBDA2A0F4B61BE07EEB7A9465CF1@mommystoyii>
References: <ED95DBDA2A0F4B61BE07EEB7A9465CF1@mommystoyii>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimRGYdhJ_aCujb5rfKQ9AEiR8eKfrx+zbDer-2E@mail.gmail.com>

On 2/27/11, Gary Klein <tr6.guy at verizon.net> wrote:
> Here's a better technique that won't mark up the cap.  It works on my TR6
> and TR8 so I suspect it will work on the GT6.  Screw in a #10 bolt into the
> hole of the cap, about a 1" or so long bolt will do with a fine thread.  It
> will seat on the stub axle end and slowly extract the cap.

And if you use an eye bolt (about 2" long) you can do this w/o a
wrench, just turn the screw eye by hand (unless the cap it rusted or
otherwise stuck).

Geo

From brianharlan at scrtc.com  Sun Feb 27 12:48:13 2011
From: brianharlan at scrtc.com (Brian Harlan)
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 13:48:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Valve Seals
In-Reply-To: <201102271106.06521.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <4D6A654D.7010803@scrtc.com>
	<201102271106.06521.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4D6AAA7D.3020600@scrtc.com>

Hi Bob,

I'm leaning towards no seals because they didn't seem to be originally 
installed. Just wanted some experienced input and wondered if anyone had 
installed them anyway, and with what results. Thanks for the reply, 
you're confirming my decision.

Brian

On 2/27/2011 10:06 AM, Bob wrote:
> Brian,
>
> Again, I am not a Spitfire expert but it the Spit engine is anything like a 3,
> 4 or 6 there are no seals on the valve stems if the engine is stock.
>
> I have heard of seal kits for 6's but no experience here. My 72 is stock and
> all I did was install hardened exhaust seats and bronze guides. Same with my 3
> and 4.
>
> There are many Spitfire experts on this list so I am guessing you will get
> some expert replies soon.
>
> Best of luck and welcome to our world!
>
> Bob
>
>


From elliottr at rmi.net  Sun Feb 27 15:45:48 2011
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 16:45:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] Valve Seals
In-Reply-To: <4D6AAA7D.3020600@scrtc.com>
References: <4D6A654D.7010803@scrtc.com>	<201102271106.06521.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<4D6AAA7D.3020600@scrtc.com>
Message-ID: <4D6AD41C.8020603@rmi.net>

Hi Bob,

The Spitfire engines did not come with seals.  But many people much more 
expert than I,  recommend using putting seals on the valve stems when 
rebuilding.  I am pretty sure it was one of the recommendations in Kas 
Kastner's books though I don't have mine handy to confirm that.

I had them installed on my 1500 engine when I had the head done last 
fall.  So far I can't really comment on the benefit.  I would think it 
would help reduce oil consumption.

However as you said they were built without them originally and 
performed fine.

Roger Elliott

On 2/27/2011 1:48 PM, Brian Harlan wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
> I'm leaning towards no seals because they didn't seem to be originally 
> installed. Just wanted some experienced input and wondered if anyone 
> had installed them anyway, and with what results. Thanks for the 
> reply, you're confirming my decision.
>
> Brian
>
> On 2/27/2011 10:06 AM, Bob wrote:
>> Brian,
>>
>> Again, I am not a Spitfire expert but it the Spit engine is anything 
>> like a 3,
>> 4 or 6 there are no seals on the valve stems if the engine is stock.
>>
>> I have heard of seal kits for 6's but no experience here. My 72 is 
>> stock and
>> all I did was install hardened exhaust seats and bronze guides. Same 
>> with my 3
>> and 4.
>>
>> There are many Spitfire experts on this list so I am guessing you 
>> will get
>> some expert replies soon.
>>
>> Best of luck and welcome to our world!
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net
>
>

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Feb 27 15:47:56 2011
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 22:47:56 +0000
Subject: [TR] Car inspection in N.Y.
Message-ID: <BLU162-w224288F07F54F96928D283E5DF0@phx.gbl>


Hi Listerines,

I may have need of someone to inspect a non-LBC car for me in Astoria, N.Y.  Is there someone on the list in that area who would be willing to help out?

Best regards,
Tom

 		 	   		  

From brianharlan at scrtc.com  Sun Feb 27 19:26:22 2011
From: brianharlan at scrtc.com (Brian Harlan)
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 20:26:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] Date of manufacture
Message-ID: <4D6B07CE.8070708@scrtc.com>

Hey all,

When I first started investigating British cars on the internet, I ran 
across a web page that had a table, like a spreadsheet, that gave the 
approximate date of manufacture by referencing the Commission number. I 
am sure it covered Spitfires, but I also think it covered other models.

It was much more complete than just stating the year. It referenced the 
month and even day (or range of a days) that a certain commission number 
left the factory. It seems that an individual put it together, and it 
was posted on his personal website (as opposed to a company website). I 
know there are lots of resources that give the year that certain 
commission numbers were produced, but this was much more in-depth.

Does this ring a bell for anyone, or have I just been breathing too much 
parts cleaner?

Thanks,
Brian

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 28 10:28:14 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 09:28:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR# trunnions
Message-ID: <390014.90490.qm@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

my friend has completed?the restoration of his TR3. it looks soooo cool.
the trunnions came without the grease nipples installed. when i took a look 
at?it this weekend and tried to screw the new nipples in for the first time, the 
bottom?plate that the nipple screws into just turns in the trunnion. 
consequently you cant install the nipple.
my first thought was to take a small cold chisel and peen the trunnion to try 
and make?an interference. but i thought id ask?if any of you had suffered this 
and if anyone had alternate ways of dealing with it before i take the hammer to 
it.
thanks
Frank?


      

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Feb 28 12:43:38 2011
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 11:43:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 scuttle vent drain tubes
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD64755@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Can someone tell me how to access the drain tubes for the air intake
vent?  You know the one that feeds the heater in front of the
windshield.  I fear my passenger side is blocked.  Can you see the drain
hole by looking in the vent?  Please don't tell me I have to pull the
fender.

 

Thanks

Peter '71 TR6


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb 28 15:10:03 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 17:10:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 scuttle vent drain tubes
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD64755@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD64755@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <ADFB46752E664A44BB60306E60E50C10@BobPC>

Peter,
I recently asked that same question over in the 6-Pack Forum and was told 
that you can see the tubes under the dash near the windshield posts. I 
haven't checked mine yet and don't know if it's that easy or not. This link 
also was helpful if you do need to pull the fenders 
http://www.britsportofseattle.com/category/resto-hints/

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Arakelian, Peter
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2011 2:43 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 scuttle vent drain tubes

Can someone tell me how to access the drain tubes for the air intake
vent?  You know the one that feeds the heater in front of the
windshield.  I fear my passenger side is blocked.  Can you see the drain
hole by looking in the vent?  Please don't tell me I have to pull the
fender.



Thanks

Peter '71 TR6

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Mon Feb 28 16:14:43 2011
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 18:14:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 scuttle vent drain tubes
Message-ID: <27d6e.114610a.3a9d8663@aol.com>



In a message dated 2/28/2011 5:41:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

I  recently asked that same question over in the 6-Pack Forum and was told  
that you can see the tubes under the dash near the windshield posts. I  
haven't checked mine yet and don't know if it's that easy or  not.
 
yeah, it really is that easy - after you remove the carpet side panel - if  
you're laying in the footwell looking up at it.
 
I sent Peter a picture of a bare body shell - the hole the tube goes into  
is pretty easily visible 
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc 

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Feb 28 16:46:01 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 23:46:01 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] The Orchestra (actual Lucas and possibly Triumph content)
Message-ID: <703002.31306.qm@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hope this little story amuses you as much as it did me when I heard it earlier 
today.
Had a phone call from one of my contemporaries who I worked with in the Export 
Department at Coventry in the '60's. Like me, Pete is now retired and lives in 
the University city of Oxford. This last weekend, he and his wife were given 
free tickets to something called "An Evening of Alternative Music" performed by 
a number of students of The Oxford Union. Taking their seats before the 
performance, they noticed the 'orchestra' comprised two large drum and cymbal 
sets, four trombones, a harp, tubular chimes and - wait for it, six Lucas 
windtone car horns (of the type fitted to sidescreen TR's) wired into three 
separate pairs and facing three microphones. Enormous speakers were scattered 
around the stage and auditorium and all plugged in to a massive amplifier.
Presently, the performance got underway and for 45 vminutes the audience 
suffered an onslaught of horrendous and nightmarish sound.
Came the interval and as members of the audience started to recover and make a 
dash for the doors, Pete saw an old man several rows in front stagger to his 
feet and wave his walking stick in the air to which was attached a freshly 
laundered white handkerchief. Grabbing his equally ancient wife and shoving her 
in front of him to one of the gangways, all that anyone could hear was the old 
man shouting, "Okay, okay, we surrender!"

Jonmac


      

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Feb 28 17:28:19 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 19:28:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] The Orchestra (actual Lucas and possibly Triumph content)
In-Reply-To: <703002.31306.qm@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <703002.31306.qm@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201102281928.20076.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday, February 28, 2011 06:46:01 pm John Macartney wrote:
> Hope this little story amuses you as much as it did me when I heard it
> earlier today.
> Had a phone call from one of my contemporaries who I worked with in the
> Export Department at Coventry in the '60's. Like me, Pete is now retired
> and lives in the University city of Oxford. This last weekend, he and his
> wife were given free tickets to something called "An Evening of
> Alternative Music" performed by a number of students of The Oxford Union.
> Taking their seats before the performance, they noticed the 'orchestra'
> comprised two large drum and cymbal sets, four trombones, a harp, tubular
> chimes and - wait for it, six Lucas windtone car horns (of the type fitted
> to sidescreen TR's) wired into three separate pairs and facing three
> microphones. Enormous speakers were scattered around the stage and
> auditorium and all plugged in to a massive amplifier. Presently, the
> performance got underway and for 45 vminutes the audience suffered an
> onslaught of horrendous and nightmarish sound.
> Came the interval and as members of the audience started to recover and
> make a dash for the doors, Pete saw an old man several rows in front
> stagger to his feet and wave his walking stick in the air to which was
> attached a freshly laundered white handkerchief. Grabbing his equally
> ancient wife and shoving her in front of him to one of the gangways, all
> that anyone could hear was the old man shouting, "Okay, okay, we
> surrender!"
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> 
John,

Very funny!

We also attended a concert of UK origin but with much better music I am sure. 
We saw "Rain" and had a great time. No one left early I am sure and if the 
older gent with the walking stick was in attendance I am sure he would have 
been clapping as hard as we were.


Bob

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 28 19:18:19 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 18:18:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR# trunnions
Message-ID: <777136.74622.qm@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Frank & list!

On my TR4A, the zerks are NOT on or in the trunnions but in the vertical link 
with a hole drilled down the center to the insert of the zerk is. You oil 
through the zerk & it travles down the center of the Vertical Link & is forced 
up around the threads?& out the top of the trunnion where the grease cap or dust 
excluder is.
?-Cosmo Kramer 


      

From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Feb 28 20:36:57 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 22:36:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Subject=3A__TR=23_trunnions?=
Message-ID: <20110301033643.4051018764C@autox.team.net>

So, the bottom of the upright has threads into which the zerk screws, and the bottom of the trunnion is open to the elements?
I assume that when you grease it, the excess grease falls out at the bottom?
R 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Cosmo Kramer" <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, Feb 28, 2011 21:18
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR# trunnions
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Hi Frank & list!

On my TR4A, the zerks are NOT on or in the trunnions but in the vertical link
with a hole drilled down the center to the insert of the zerk is. You oil
through the zerk & it travles down the center of the Vertical Link & is forced
up around the threads?& out the top of the trunnion where the grease cap or dust
excluder is.
?-Cosmo Kramer



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net