From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Mon Aug  1 02:58:28 2011
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 04:58:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] ignition/glove box locks.
Message-ID: <4E366AB4.4020303@frontiernet.net>

Anyone know whether the TR3 used the same key for the ignition & glove 
box locks or a different key?

My guess is different keys, but it's just a guess.

I'm finally getting around to setting up original keys on my car. I've 
got locks & keys, I just want it to be right.

-- 
George Richardson
1957 Triumph TR3
TS15559LT

From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  1 06:10:22 2011
From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 12:10:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] What's a reasonable price for doing a TR6 clutch?
Message-ID: <mailman.21.1312200638.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Just trying to get a ballpark figure for a clutch replacement on a TR6?
Thanks
Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, Fla
74 TR6.
73 Stag
58 TR3
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  1 08:24:56 2011
From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:24:56 +0000
Subject: [TR] Cost to replace TR6 clutch
Message-ID: <mailman.22.1312208715.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>

This bounced the first time I tried to post, so sorry if it posts twice. I'm Just trying to get a ballpark figure for a clutch replacement on a TR6?
Thanks
Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, Fla
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  1 08:36:30 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 07:36:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] ignition/glove box locks.
In-Reply-To: <4E366AB4.4020303@frontiernet.net>
References: <4E366AB4.4020303@frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <1312209390.23686.YahooMailNeo@web120218.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

George
it was always the same key. but id suggest different keys with a magnetic link on your key fob. i cant tell you how many times I'm driving and wish i could have the passenger open the glove box for me.
Frank

From: George Richardson <gprtech at frontiernet.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 1:58 AM
Subject: [TR] ignition/glove box locks.

Anyone know whether the TR3 used the same key for the ignition & glove box locks or a different key?

My guess is different keys, but it's just a guess.

I'm finally getting around to setting up original keys on my car. I've got locks & keys, I just want it to be right.

-- George Richardson
1957 Triumph TR3
TS15559LT


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Aug  1 08:43:09 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 07:43:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Cost to replace TR6 clutch
In-Reply-To: <20110801143515.A0E8D187888@autox.team.net>
References: <20110801143515.A0E8D187888@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <A78CA91E-98F0-4054-89D8-CF5A5222081F@comcast.net>

I guess it depends on who does the labor  If you do it, then the cost is just
for parts, the LUK kit costs $259 at Moss, and would be the most expensive way
to go.  Most labor is at least $75 per hour  I would estimate at least four
hours, that is about what time it took me and a friend to  replace on my TR6




On Aug 1, 2011, at 7:24 AM, lgmtr6 wrote:

> This bounced the first time I tried to post, so sorry if it posts twice. I'm
Just trying to get a ballpark figure for a clutch replacement on a TR6?
> Thanks
> Larry Miceli
> Mount Dora, Fla
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>

"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA
Casper
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Aug  1 08:46:28 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 07:46:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] ignition/glove box locks.
In-Reply-To: <1312209390.23686.YahooMailNeo@web120218.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <4E366AB4.4020303@frontiernet.net>
	<1312209390.23686.YahooMailNeo@web120218.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A0B8FC2F-316C-4887-A2F2-ECD4E0DDB2B1@comcast.net>

We have different keys for Casper  and it is nice to have a second set in
AnnaBelle's purse for those times the glove box needs opening 


On Aug 1, 2011, at 7:36 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:

> George
> it was always the same key. but id suggest different keys with a magnetic
link on your key fob. i cant tell you how many times I'm driving and wish i
could have the passenger open the glove box for me.
> Frank
>
> From: George Richardson <gprtech at frontiernet.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 1:58 AM
> Subject: [TR] ignition/glove box locks.
>
> Anyone know whether the TR3 used the same key for the ignition & glove box
locks or a different key?
>
> My guess is different keys, but it's just a guess.
>
> I'm finally getting around to setting up original keys on my car. I've got
locks & keys, I just want it to be right.
>
> -


"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA
Casper
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Aug  1 08:51:16 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 10:51:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] ignition/glove box locks.
In-Reply-To: <1312209390.23686.YahooMailNeo@web120218.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <4E366AB4.4020303@frontiernet.net>
	<1312209390.23686.YahooMailNeo@web120218.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE1E71996BD77B-12D8-157A2@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>

 Hmmm...I always thought there was one key for ignition/doors, and another for
glove box/trunk lock!?



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>


George
it was always the same key. but id suggest different keys with a magnetic link
on your key fob. i cant tell you how many times I'm driving and wish i could
have the passenger open the glove box for me.ns/triumphs/zoboherald at aol.com

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Aug  1 08:56:44 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 10:56:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] What's a reasonable price for doing a TR6 clutch?
In-Reply-To: <20110801121846.08E36187888@autox.team.net>
References: <20110801121846.08E36187888@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CE1E725CA66EFF-12D8-1588A@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>

 If it helps at all, my Triumph "Repair Time Schedule" shows 6.3 hours for
""Clutch assembly and/or plate. Replace" -- same for TR4A, TR5PI and TR6PI
(those are the relevant sections in my copy)!



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: lgmtr6 <lgmtr6 at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Aug 1, 2011 8:18 am
Subject: [TR] What's a reasonable price for doing a TR6 clutch?


Just trying to get a ballpark figure for a clutch replacement on a TR6?
Thanks
Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, Fla
74 TR6.
73 Stag
58 TR3
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/zoboherald at aol.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Aug  1 09:33:00 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:33:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] What's a reasonable price for doing a TR6 clutch?
In-Reply-To: <8CE1E725CA66EFF-12D8-1588A@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20110801121846.08E36187888@autox.team.net>
	<8CE1E725CA66EFF-12D8-1588A@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <66BEC8351EF94131B72E2F3ECBBF1D52@BobPC>

Andy.........where did you find the Repair Time Schedule? Sounds like a 
great resource or interesting reading.....

Larry..........you can save about 2 - 3 hours of shop labor if they'll let 
you pull/reinstall the interior yourself. Pretty easy to do but time 
consuming. The great unknown with our cars is how easily they come apart 
unless you've taken them apart already. Frozen/stripped bolts are 
commonplace and that adds to the time factor. Some guys can pull the tranny 
without dropping the exhaust but my exhaust comes apart easily so I always 
drop it....... the rear tranny mount is tough to get at with the exhaust in 
place.

Pulling the tranny usually turns into a "while I'm in there I might as well" 
scenario...........i.e. new clutch, new t/o bearing, pin the clutch fork, 
resurface & balance flywheel, new tranny seals etc.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs



-----Original Message----- 
From: Andrew S. Mace
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 10:56 AM
To: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] What's a reasonable price for doing a TR6 clutch?

If it helps at all, my Triumph "Repair Time Schedule" shows 6.3 hours for
""Clutch assembly and/or plate. Replace" -- same for TR4A, TR5PI and TR6PI
(those are the relevant sections in my copy)!



--Andy Mace


-----Original Message-----
From: lgmtr6 <lgmtr6 at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Aug 1, 2011 8:18 am
Subject: [TR] What's a reasonable price for doing a TR6 clutch?


Just trying to get a ballpark figure for a clutch replacement on a TR6?
Thanks
Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, Fla
74 TR6.
73 Stag
58 TR3
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  1 12:21:09 2011
From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 18:21:09 +0000
Subject: [TR] What's a reasonable price for doing a TR6 clutch?
In-Reply-To: <66BEC8351EF94131B72E2F3ECBBF1D52@BobPC>
References: <20110801121846.08E36187888@autox.team.net>
	<8CE1E725CA66EFF-12D8-1588A@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com><66BEC8351EF94131B72E2F3ECBBF1D52@BobPC>
Message-ID: <mailman.23.1312222922.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Thanks to all who responded. Here in Fla. the shop rate is about $85 per hour X 6 hours is about $510 plus the clutch kit at around $300. So $810 plus tax and any surprises. 
Larry Miceli
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:33:00 
To: <lgmtr6 at yahoo.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; Andrew S. Mace<zoboherald at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] What's a reasonable price for doing a TR6 clutch?

Andy.........where did you find the Repair Time Schedule? Sounds like a 
great resource or interesting reading.....

Larry..........you can save about 2 - 3 hours of shop labor if they'll let 
you pull/reinstall the interior yourself. Pretty easy to do but time 
consuming. The great unknown with our cars is how easily they come apart 
unless you've taken them apart already. Frozen/stripped bolts are 
commonplace and that adds to the time factor. Some guys can pull the tranny 
without dropping the exhaust but my exhaust comes apart easily so I always 
drop it....... the rear tranny mount is tough to get at with the exhaust in 
place.

Pulling the tranny usually turns into a "while I'm in there I might as well" 
scenario...........i.e. new clutch, new t/o bearing, pin the clutch fork, 
resurface & balance flywheel, new tranny seals etc.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs



-----Original Message----- 
From: Andrew S. Mace
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 10:56 AM
To: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] What's a reasonable price for doing a TR6 clutch?

If it helps at all, my Triumph "Repair Time Schedule" shows 6.3 hours for
""Clutch assembly and/or plate. Replace" -- same for TR4A, TR5PI and TR6PI
(those are the relevant sections in my copy)!



--Andy Mace


-----Original Message-----
From: lgmtr6 <lgmtr6 at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Aug 1, 2011 8:18 am
Subject: [TR] What's a reasonable price for doing a TR6 clutch?


Just trying to get a ballpark figure for a clutch replacement on a TR6?
Thanks
Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, Fla
74 TR6.
73 Stag
58 TR3
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Mon Aug  1 12:28:10 2011
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 14:28:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Car Insurance, State Farm-Hagerty
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1312221604.20518.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1312221604.20518.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAIGxXNLfSbVNrJ1MOrk7HIMBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

I have had quotes from AARP and they were always higher than State Farm.
Could be due to discount having homeowner policy with them as well, don't
know??

TR6 is insured with Hagerty, ZERO deductibles.
Vehicle coverage says GUARANTEED value (not stated, or agreed), anyone
familiar with that?
Regards,
Bob

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  1 12:42:10 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:42:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield
Message-ID: <1312224130.60178.YahooMailNeo@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

im curious if any one of you has an aluminum windshield on your TR3?
Frank

From darrellw at ipns.com  Mon Aug  1 12:59:08 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:59:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield
In-Reply-To: <1312224130.60178.YahooMailNeo@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1312224130.60178.YahooMailNeo@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B7D38E33-3EA4-4900-B651-5AF5307767FF@ipns.com>

On Aug 1, 2011, at 11:42 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:

> im curious if any one of you has an aluminum windshield on your TR3?
> Frank

Wouldn't that be hard to see through?  At least until Scotty give us
transparent aluminum :-).

-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon Aug  1 13:16:15 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 14:16:15 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Car Insurance, State Farm-Hagerty
Message-ID: <820018024.3895235.1312226175948.JavaMail.root@vznit170076>

Agreed value is Guaranteed value per their website:


Guaranteed Value
We understand the value of your car. With Hagerty, securing coverage for the
true value of your car is a simple process. We start with an Agreed Value
policy, then we guarantee it. That is, webll agree on the insured value, and
in the event of a covered total loss, youbre guaranteed to receive that
amount. Period.
This sets Hagerty apart from companies who offer b
Actual Cash Valueb
 or
b
Stated Valueb
 policies, which may depreciate your vehicle in the event of
a claim.

Craig H. Nicholls
1972 Triumph TR6



Aug 1, 2011 02:52:41 PM, rpeglow at optonline.net wrote:

I have had quotes from AARP and they were always higher than State Farm.
Could be due to discount having homeowner policy with them as well, don't
know??

TR6 is insured with Hagerty, ZERO deductibles.
Vehicle coverage says GUARANTEED value (not stated, or agreed), anyone
familiar with that?
Regards,
Bob


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Mon Aug  1 14:01:45 2011
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 16:01:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Odd overdrive behaviour
In-Reply-To: <7129C647-8330-4704-8C41-84056229A5C7@comcast.net>
References: <4E35B5EB.6080003@cogeco.ca>
	<7129C647-8330-4704-8C41-84056229A5C7@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4E370629.4090008@cogeco.ca>

I'll look at the connections while I'm at it but at this point it's not 
an intermittent problem, it's very predictable and consistent, which 
usually means the electrics are fine ;)

On 7/31/2011 7:24 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote:
> A cleaner attempt at a fix might be checking your OD switch.  You 
> might have a bad connection, e.g. a broken solder connection or a 
> fatigued wire on or running to the switch.  The switch is a prime 
> location for intermitant problems.
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 31, 2011, at 2:07 PM, Art McEwen wrote:
>
>> The last couple of drives the first time I engage overdrive it works 
>> like a charm, but if I disengage it (be it 5 minutes or 25 minutes 
>> later) it won't reengage.   If I stop, even for only 5 minutes it's 
>> fine, but again, only once.
>>
>> The gearbox oil was a bit low so I topped it up and that didn't 
>> change it.  I'm not stopping long enough for it to cool down so it's 
>> not likely heat.  If I drive without it for a while then try it 
>> doesn't engage so it's not like the solenoid is heating/cooling.
>>
>> What do you think solenoid or internals?
>>
>> I'm going to check the filter screen and re-top it up because it's 
>> been awhile since I've had warm 30weight running down my arm.
>>
>>
>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  1 14:06:41 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 13:06:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield
In-Reply-To: <B7D38E33-3EA4-4900-B651-5AF5307767FF@ipns.com>
References: <1312224130.60178.YahooMailNeo@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<B7D38E33-3EA4-4900-B651-5AF5307767FF@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <1312229201.36969.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

ah haaaaaaaa
DOH!

From: Darrell Walker <darrellw at ipns.com>
To: Frank Fisher
<yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 windshield


On
Aug 1, 2011, at 11:42 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:

> im curious if any one of you
has an aluminum windshield on your TR3?
> Frank

Wouldn't that be hard to see
through?  At least until Scotty give us transparent aluminum :-).

-Darrell
-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From dwillner at ptd.net  Mon Aug  1 15:18:19 2011
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 17:18:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield
References: <1312224130.60178.YahooMailNeo@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><B7D38E33-3EA4-4900-B651-5AF5307767FF@ipns.com>
	<1312229201.36969.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <96820E9846D2449083A33E9D087839F4@valued9cfc0b6f>

Me too...TS65107

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "Darrell Walker" <darrellw at ipns.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 windshield


> ah haaaaaaaa
> DOH!
>
> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw at ipns.com>
> To: Frank Fisher
> <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
> Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 11:59 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 windshield
>
>
> On
> Aug 1, 2011, at 11:42 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>
>> im curious if any one of you
> has an aluminum windshield on your TR3?
>> Frank
>
> Wouldn't that be hard to see
> through?  At least until Scotty give us transparent aluminum :-).
>
> -Darrell
> -- 
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dwillner at ptd.net

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Aug  1 15:20:51 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 22:20:51 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Paul Richardson
Message-ID: <1312233651.79800.YahooMailNeo@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

I know a number of listers read "The Vintage Triumph" (from VTR) and "Triumph
World." Those people will know that my very good friend Paul Richardson (son
of the late Ken Richardson) is a regular contributor to both publications.
Owing to my absence from home over the last few days, I only heard today from
Paul's wife today that he was taken ill at home some days ago and rushed into
hospital. On arrival, he was diagnosed with a seriously perforated duodenal
ulcer and went into surgery immediately. The diagnosis was a total surprise
because Paul didn't know he had any form of ulcer! He was allowed home just
before the weekend just passed and while still very weak, he's starting on the
long road to recovery.
If any lister enjoys Paul's articles - and I'm sure
there are many, I'll be happy to receive messages from anyone (off-list
please) which I can then pass on to him.
 
Jonmac

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Aug  1 15:58:05 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 17:58:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] ignition/glove box locks.
In-Reply-To: <1312209390.23686.YahooMailNeo@web120218.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <4E366AB4.4020303@frontiernet.net>
	<1312209390.23686.YahooMailNeo@web120218.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAP/sw79VB4xJlfxWN2i4xNkBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

In my case the two keys are/were cut the same but one is slightly thicker
than the other.  I believe it is the thinner one that operates trunk/cubby
and will also operate the doors/ignition.  The thicker door/ignition key
will not fit the other locks so it can be used as a 'valet' key - if someone
were so inclined (but not me).  
C


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 10:37 AM
To: George Richardson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] ignition/glove box locks.

George
it was always the same key. but id suggest different keys with a magnetic
link on your key fob. i cant tell you how many times I'm driving and wish i
could have the passenger open the glove box for me.
Frank

From: George Richardson <gprtech at frontiernet.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 1:58 AM
Subject: [TR] ignition/glove box locks.

Anyone know whether the TR3 used the same key for the ignition & glove box
locks or a different key?

My guess is different keys, but it's just a guess.

I'm finally getting around to setting up original keys on my car. I've got
locks & keys, I just want it to be right.

-- George Richardson
1957 Triumph TR3
TS15559LT


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Mon Aug  1 16:04:35 2011
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 18:04:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Odd overdrive behaviour
In-Reply-To: <895EBBFA-D9BA-4CAE-A65E-C766FDDA01FD@comcast.net>
References: <4E35B5EB.6080003@cogeco.ca>
	<7129C647-8330-4704-8C41-84056229A5C7@comcast.net>
	<4E370629.4090008@cogeco.ca>
	<895EBBFA-D9BA-4CAE-A65E-C766FDDA01FD@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4E3722F3.3090002@cogeco.ca>

I think we were both right.

When I got home last night the battery was flat, boosted it and it fired 
right up but the generator wasn't charging.   The small yellow/green 
wire off the generator, which is far too close to the exhaust manifold 
didn't feel right.   Re soldered it (added extra heat shield) and I'm 
back in business.   Oddly enough so is the overdrive.   Careful 
inspection of the wiring diagram shows the O/D switch is fed off the 
ammeter, no ammeter, no O/D.

I assume there was just enough of a connection to allow for the switch 
to operate until the exhaust manifold got up to temp and fried the 
connector, let it cool down and the smoke would flow again.


On 8/1/2011 4:26 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote:
> When a problem doesn't exist, then exists, then once again doesn't 
> exist...thats intermittent in my book.  Electric systems can very 
> easily act this way as bad connections and wires wiggle or get hot or 
> cold.    But everyone has their own ideas.
>
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 1, 2011, at 2:01 PM, Art McEwen wrote:
>
>> I'll look at the connections while I'm at it but at this point it's 
>> not an intermittent problem, it's very predictable and consistent, 
>> which usually means the electrics are fine ;)
>>
>> On 7/31/2011 7:24 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote:
>>> A cleaner attempt at a fix might be checking your OD switch.  You 
>>> might have a bad connection, e.g. a broken solder connection or a 
>>> fatigued wire on or running to the switch.  The switch is a prime 
>>> location for intermitant problems.
>>>
>>> Bud Rolofson
>>>
>>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>>> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
>>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>>> levilevi at comcast.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jul 31, 2011, at 2:07 PM, Art McEwen wrote:
>>>
>>>> The last couple of drives the first time I engage overdrive it 
>>>> works like a charm, but if I disengage it (be it 5 minutes or 25 
>>>> minutes later) it won't reengage.   If I stop, even for only 5 
>>>> minutes it's fine, but again, only once.
>>>>
>>>> The gearbox oil was a bit low so I topped it up and that didn't 
>>>> change it.  I'm not stopping long enough for it to cool down so 
>>>> it's not likely heat.  If I drive without it for a while then try 
>>>> it doesn't engage so it's not like the solenoid is heating/cooling.
>>>>
>>>> What do you think solenoid or internals?
>>>>
>>>> I'm going to check the filter screen and re-top it up because it's 
>>>> been awhile since I've had warm 30weight running down my arm.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Mon Aug  1 16:26:23 2011
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 18:26:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] ignition/glove box locks.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1312221604.20518.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1312221604.20518.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5AFFE104-4255-4437-83F0-35F2DF3878EA@mgcarclub.com>

On my TR4 the trunk and glove box are the same. But the ignition key  
and cylinder were worn to the point that I could just take the key out  
while going down the road. Maybe you don't have a problem after all  
[grin]

Allen
On Aug 1, 2011, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> George
> it was always the same key. but id suggest different keys with a  
> magnetic link on your key fob. i cant tell you how many times I'm  
> driving and wish i could have the passenger open the glove box for me.
> Frank
>
> From: George Richardson <gprtech at frontiernet.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 1:58 AM
> Subject: [TR] ignition/glove box locks.
>
> Anyone know whether the TR3 used the same key for the ignition &  
> glove box locks or a different key?
>
> My guess is different keys, but it's just a guess.
>
> I'm finally getting around to setting up original keys on my car.  
> I've got locks & keys, I just want it to be right.
>
> -- George Richardson
> 1957 Triumph TR3

From mmarr at notwires.com  Mon Aug  1 18:48:23 2011
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 19:48:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield
References: <1312224130.60178.YahooMailNeo@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<B7D38E33-3EA4-4900-B651-5AF5307767FF@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <4F5D8A4467E64742A4CF55C0A7832172@trigeni.com>

Darrell beat me to it...

Mike

Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 windshield


> On Aug 1, 2011, at 11:42 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> 
>> im curious if any one of you has an aluminum windshield on your TR3?
>> Frank
> 
> Wouldn't that be hard to see through?  At least until Scotty give us
> transparent aluminum :-).
> 
> -Darrell

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  1 19:24:29 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 18:24:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield
Message-ID: <1312248269.7272.YahooMailNeo@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

ummmm isn't an aluminum windshield hard to see through?  Probably never breaks
tho.

LOL ok........bad joke not funny lol

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  1 19:56:08 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 18:56:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield
In-Reply-To: <1312248269.7272.YahooMailNeo@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <1312248269.7272.YahooMailNeo@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1312250168.76233.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

you guys are always so kind!
 

From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To:
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 1,
2011 6:24 PM
Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield

ummmm isn't an aluminum windshield
hard to see through?  Probably never breaks
tho.

LOL ok........bad joke not
funny lol


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Aug  1 20:34:20 2011
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 21:34:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield
In-Reply-To: <1312250168.76233.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1312248269.7272.YahooMailNeo@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>,
	<1312250168.76233.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W733EFEBDED9E831BE6A8FE13B0@phx.gbl>

Frank,Do you want to try your question again?Were you talking about the
frame?

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

 > Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 18:56:08 -0700
> From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
> To: nafzigerg at yahoo.com
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 windshield
>
> you guys are always so kind!
>
>
> From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
> To:
> "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 1,
> 2011 6:24 PM
> Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield
>
> ummmm isn't an aluminum windshield
> hard to see through?  Probably never breaks
> tho.
>
> LOL ok........bad joke not
> funny lol
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Tue Aug  2 03:50:30 2011
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2011 05:50:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W733EFEBDED9E831BE6A8FE13B0@phx.gbl>
References: <1312248269.7272.YahooMailNeo@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<1312250168.76233.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<SNT123-W733EFEBDED9E831BE6A8FE13B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E37C866.6070702@frontiernet.net>

I think I have (or had) an aluminum windshield frame on my TR3 when I 
got it. It might still be around with the cracked windshield in it.

George Richardson
1957 Triumph TR3
TS15559LT


On 8/1/2011 10:34 PM, Rich White wrote:
> Frank,Do you want to try your question again?Were you talking about the
> frame?
>
> Rich White Central, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF###L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
>   >  Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 18:56:08 -0700
>> From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>> To: nafzigerg at yahoo.com
>> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 windshield
>>
>> you guys are always so kind!
>>
>>
>> From: Gary Nafziger<nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
>> To:
>> "triumphs at autox.team.net"<triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Monday, August 1,
>> 2011 6:24 PM
>> Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield
>>
>> ummmm isn't an aluminum windshield
>> hard to see through?  Probably never breaks
>> tho.
>>
>> LOL ok........bad joke not
>> funny lol
>>
>>
>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>>
>>
>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Aug  2 06:18:25 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2011 08:18:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Post 60000 Rear Seat Q
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAKHv3db+QgtKtZXW2E2QF6MBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAKHv3db+QgtKtZXW2E2QF6MBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAIz1cxYN97dCqPJUQauHjXcBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

I have gotten a couple (conflicting) responses but would like to hear from
more  - Please - if you have a post-60000 rear seat; please send dimensions
and if possible an image.
Thanks
Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 10:58 AM
To: TR List 
Subject: [TR] TR3A Post 60000 Rear Seat Q

Does anyone have images of a post-60000 rear seat - both in and out (top,
side, and bottom views) of the car?  
I really need to see how it meets up to the rear panel.  Does it 'butt' up
to it or go underneath?  Is the back edge finished or does the material only
go under the panel?

I have the basic measurements and all of the materials but want to provide
examples to "my" upholsterer (a friend who happens to be in the business).

Seat board = 12" x 33"
Finished = 15" x 35" (need to check the width)

Thanks a bunch...
Carl
TS81802LO


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue Aug  2 06:21:08 2011
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 08:21:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Cost to replace TR6 clutch
Message-ID: <4cf29.23d1dac6.3b6945b4@aol.com>

Larry,
 
As Bill mentioned, labor will be a significant portion of your bill!   You 
will save at least a couple of hours if you are willing to do some prep work 
 beforehand and then do the final "fit & finish" work after the clutch is  
installed.......here's how:  Beforehand: remove the passenger seat.   If you 
have nice carpets in the front footwells - remove them.  Remove the  radio 
and center A bracket; remove the transmission tunnel and carpet then  
reinstall it with a few bolts on each side just to keep it attached.
 
Basically, you want to get the interior stripped down to the point where  
the technician only needs to remove the driver's seat and trans tunnel to 
start  the job.  If you run into a snag with frozen bolts, stripped threads, 
etc  while you're doing the prep work it's a lot cheaper for you to deal with 
then  your technician dealing with those issues:) 
 
After the clutch is in and everything is buttoned up, you can replace the  
interior stuff (on your clock!) at your leisure.
 
If the trans comes out okay and everything replaces without a hitch, you  
should save a few bucks.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/1/2011 10:49:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
anabil007 at comcast.net writes:

I guess  it depends on who does the labor  If you do it, then the cost is 
just
for  parts, the LUK kit costs $259 at Moss, and would be the most expensive 
 way
to go.  Most labor is at least $75 per hour  I would estimate at  least 
four
hours, that is about what time it took me and a friend to   replace on my 
TR6




On Aug 1, 2011, at 7:24 AM, lgmtr6  wrote:

> This bounced the first time I tried to post, so sorry if it  posts twice. 
I'm
Just trying to get a ballpark figure for a clutch  replacement on a TR6?
> Thanks
> Larry Miceli
> Mount Dora,  Fla
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>

"Life is  too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace,  CA
Casper
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Tue Aug  2 07:09:35 2011
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 09:09:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield
In-Reply-To: <B7D38E33-3EA4-4900-B651-5AF5307767FF@ipns.com>
References: <1312224130.60178.YahooMailNeo@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<B7D38E33-3EA4-4900-B651-5AF5307767FF@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <001501cc5115$6f2105e0$4d6311a0$@net>

Wouldn't that be hard to see through Hmmm.....Not for a TR3 driver 

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Darrell Walker
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 2:59 PM
To: Frank Fisher
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 windshield

On Aug 1, 2011, at 11:42 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:

> im curious if any one of you has an aluminum windshield on your TR3?
> Frank

Wouldn't that be hard to see through?  At least until Scotty give us
transparent aluminum :-).

-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug  2 08:25:47 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 10:25:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield
In-Reply-To: <1312224130.60178.YahooMailNeo@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20110802142547.0FNWO.88935.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

> im curious if any one of you has an aluminum windshield on your TR3?

Assuming you mean the surround :) I don't, but there is one in the local club.

I even have a suspicion there is some connection between it and TRF having the special Tenax pegs reproduced (but that's just a WAG).

Randall - someplace in Montana (Can't even pronounce the name, let alone spell it)

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  2 09:04:52 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 08:04:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W733EFEBDED9E831BE6A8FE13B0@phx.gbl>
References: <1312248269.7272.YahooMailNeo@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>,
	<1312250168.76233.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<SNT123-W733EFEBDED9E831BE6A8FE13B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1312297492.34853.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

sure Rich
i was talking about the frame. i just removed mine and was surprised
at how light they really are. and got to wondering just how rare they are.
From: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
To: 
Cc: TR owners List
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 7:34 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] tr-3 windshield

Frank,Do you want to try your question again?Were you
talking about the
frame?

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That
ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

> Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 18:56:08 -0700
>
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
> To: nafzigerg at yahoo.com
> CC:
triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 windshield
>
> you guys are
always so kind!
>
>
> From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
> To:
>
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 1,
> 2011 6:24 PM
> Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield
>
> ummmm isn't an aluminum
windshield
> hard to see through?  Probably never breaks
> tho.
>
> LOL
ok........bad joke not
> funny lol
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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>
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>
>
>
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From floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com  Tue Aug  2 12:40:48 2011
From: floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com (floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 14:40:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Sticking Choke Cable
In-Reply-To: <20110726121315.GD3ID.45846.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Message-ID: <20110802184048.SYU92.91526.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>

No ideas on a sticking choke cable?

Joe


---- floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com wrote: 
> Hello all,
> 
> Been a while since I've posted here and glad to be back.  
> 
> The choke cable in my 72 TR6 is sticking in place.  I took the knob off and used a set of robo-grips to move it back and forth and gave it a squirt of Wurth 2000.  Nothing seems to work.  The cables are not kinked (but are very long.  The carb connections move freely so I don't THINK that is the problem.  Any suggestions?
> 
> Joe B
> Cocoa, FL
> 72 TR6
> 
> 
> triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  2 12:45:06 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 11:45:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Cracked windscreen & AL Windscreen Frame
Message-ID: <1312310706.13405.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
I have a friend that has an AL Windscreen Frame in his Austin Healy.
He told me a story of he or the passenger ( I can't remember now) getting out
of the car & using the Windscreen Frame as a support. Well that's when he
found out that his frame was AL, because there was an instant crack in the
Windscreen.
 
Moral of the story:
Don't have ANYONE use the Windscreen Frame
as a support for getting in OR out of your car. I also feel that goes for ALL
TRIUMPH models, even if it does NOT have an AL frame.
 
This is another reason
(among others) I open the door for the passenger (Male or female) when
getting IN or OUT. I would rather offer my self as an aid than have possible
damage to the car. BUT, That's just me!

-Cosmo Kramer

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Tue Aug  2 12:50:31 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2011 13:50:31 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Sticking Choke Cable
Message-ID: <458967957.3993008.1312311031456.JavaMail.root@vznit170078>

Joe,

When I redid my on my 72 TR6, I pulled the whole thing out, put graphite on it, then slid it back in.

If there is no binding at the carbs, that should do it.

Good luck,

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6


Aug 2, 2011 02:42:47 PM, floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com wrote:

No ideas on a sticking choke cable?

Joe


---- floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com wrote: 
> Hello all,
> 
> Been a while since I've posted here and glad to be back. 
> 
> The choke cable in my 72 TR6 is sticking in place. I took the knob off and used a set of robo-grips to move it back and forth and gave it a squirt of Wurth 2000. Nothing seems to work. The cables are not kinked (but are very long. The carb connections move freely so I don't THINK that is the problem. Any suggestions?
> 
> Joe B
> Cocoa, FL
> 72 TR6
> 
> 
> triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com


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From geomurphy at windstream.net  Tue Aug  2 12:56:32 2011
From: geomurphy at windstream.net (George)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 14:56:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A leather trim
Message-ID: <000001cc5145$e6a7c650$b3f752f0$@net>

I am restoring a 1960 TR3A.  I have leather and vinyl strips from the
Roadster Factory that supposed to be sufficient to cover the Dash and all
the trim pieces.  I have enough leather to cover the long piece above the
dash and two doors and the two arched pieces directly behind the doors.  But
There are three other trim pieces that are under the convertible top when in
the down position.  One long piece in the very back and two that are in the
rounded corners.   Should these three pieces be covered in leather or the
vinyl material?   Thanks  George Murphy, 60 tr3A Waleska Ga.



_______________________________________
No infections found in this outgoing message
Scanned by iolo System Shield.
http://www.iolo.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Aug  2 13:19:20 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 12:19:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A leather trim
In-Reply-To: <000001cc5145$e6a7c650$b3f752f0$@net>
References: <000001cc5145$e6a7c650$b3f752f0$@net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEaFvoji0sPD2TG4Tuahf3uAo7+6NYHu53qRkTBX1VNeQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Aug 2, 2011 at 11:56 AM, George <geomurphy at windstream.net> wrote:

> ...There are three other trim pieces that are under the convertible top
> when in
> the down position.  One long piece in the very back and two that are in the
> rounded corners.   Should these three pieces be covered in leather or the
> vinyl material?
>


It is my understanding that these 3 rear pieces were vinyl covered
originally.

Geo

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Aug  2 13:34:04 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 14:34:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A leather trim
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEaFvoji0sPD2TG4Tuahf3uAo7+6NYHu53qRkTBX1VNeQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001cc5145$e6a7c650$b3f752f0$@net>
	<CANzE1bEaFvoji0sPD2TG4Tuahf3uAo7+6NYHu53qRkTBX1VNeQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D6CD6202-55FF-4C97-B03B-2ED6E89D05CC@flash.net>

I agree with Geo, S/B covered in vinyl.
Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 2, 2011, at 2:19 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> On Tue, Aug 2, 2011 at 11:56 AM, George <geomurphy at windstream.net> wrote:
>
>> ...There are three other trim pieces that are under the convertible top
>> when in
>> the down position.  One long piece in the very back and two that are in
the
>> rounded corners.   Should these three pieces be covered in leather or the
>> vinyl material?
>>
>
>
> It is my understanding that these 3 rear pieces were vinyl covered
> originally.
>
> Geo
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Aug  2 14:39:35 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 16:39:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Sticking Choke Cable
Message-ID: <13c85.52694cc9.3b69ba87@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/2/2011 1:42:12 PM Central Daylight Time, 
floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com writes: 
> No ideas on a sticking choke cable?
> 
> Joe
> 
> 
> ---- floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com wrote: 
> >Hello all,
> >
> >Been a while since I've posted here and glad to be back.  
> >
> >The choke cable in my 72 TR6 is sticking in place.  I took the knob off 
> and used a set of robo-grips to move it back and forth and gave it a squirt 
> of Wurth 2000.  Nothing seems to work.  The cables are not kinked (but are 
> very long.  The carb connections move freely so I don't THINK that is the 
> problem.  Any suggestions?
> 

Where did you apply the lubricant?  It is really difficult to lubricate the 
entire cable since you can only apply it to the ends.  You may have to 
remove the cable and hang it vertically and introduce the oil at the top and let 
it infiltrate the length of the cable.  Moving the cable back and forth 
will help accelerate the process.

Or you could install a new cable.

Good luck

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Aug  2 14:44:46 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 16:44:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A leather trim
Message-ID: <14051.163a258b.3b69bbbe@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/2/2011 1:57:10 PM Central Daylight Time, 
geomurphy at windstream.net writes: 
> I am restoring a 1960 TR3A.  I have leather and vinyl strips from the
> Roadster Factory that supposed to be sufficient to cover the Dash and all
> the trim pieces.  I have enough leather to cover the long piece above the
> dash and two doors and the two arched pieces directly behind the doors.  
> But
> There are three other trim pieces that are under the convertible top when 
> in
> the down position.  One long piece in the very back and two that are in 
> the
> rounded corners.   Should these three pieces be covered in leather or the
> vinyl material?   Thanks  George Murphy, 60 tr3A Waleska Ga.
> 

I received the same thing in my kit from Moss.  I presume the rear capping 
pieces are to be covered with vinyl.  Likewise, the leather seats have 
leather seating surfaces but the rest is vinyl.  >et me know if you figured out 
how to stretch the leather over those curved pieces.  I gave up and I'm going 
to sent them off to someone further along the learning curve.

Dave

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Tue Aug  2 15:10:19 2011
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 17:10:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Bulk] Re:  TR3A leather trim
In-Reply-To: <14051.163a258b.3b69bbbe@cs.com>
References: <14051.163a258b.3b69bbbe@cs.com>
Message-ID: <FCF1037C73DC49929927A628E047E713@AlexPC>

HI Dave,
I am assuming that you are referring to the arm rests and the curve piece 
that goes up the rear fender. The way I did mine was to create a wooden form 
that was placed in a bench vise that the metal piece sat on while the 
leather was carefully stretched on to it. The leather was soaked in water 
over night in my tub. I used 3M spray adhesives and they came out great. 
When the leather dries it is usually after the adhesives has, so it forms a 
nice tight fit as it shrinks. The trick is the sharpest curve at the bottom. 
This takes patience and a slow process of rolling it out with your fingers. 
Any kind of mechanical roller like a wallpaper roller will only flatten out 
the grain and it looks like crap. If you go to fast than you get wrinkles. 
If you are interested in the form, I can try and dig a picture out. I 
remember that I saw the form on this forum, so someone else has it also.

Alex Manzo
59 TR3A

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2011 4:44 PM
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [TR] TR3A leather trim


> In a message dated 8/2/2011 1:57:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
> geomurphy at windstream.net writes:
>> I am restoring a 1960 TR3A.  I have leather and vinyl strips from the
>> Roadster Factory that supposed to be sufficient to cover the Dash and all
>> the trim pieces.  I have enough leather to cover the long piece above the
>> dash and two doors and the two arched pieces directly behind the doors.
>> But
>> There are three other trim pieces that are under the convertible top when
>> in
>> the down position.  One long piece in the very back and two that are in
>> the
>> rounded corners.   Should these three pieces be covered in leather or the
>> vinyl material?   Thanks  George Murphy, 60 tr3A Waleska Ga.
>>
>
> I received the same thing in my kit from Moss.  I presume the rear capping
> pieces are to be covered with vinyl.  Likewise, the leather seats have
> leather seating surfaces but the rest is vinyl.  >et me know if you 
> figured out
> how to stretch the leather over those curved pieces.  I gave up and I'm 
> going
> to sent them off to someone further along the learning curve.
>
> Dave

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Aug  2 15:30:50 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 15:30:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Sticking Choke Cable
In-Reply-To: <20110802184048.SYU92.91526.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
References: <20110802184048.SYU92.91526.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
Message-ID: <54F669CC-1CE2-4D8A-BC74-277D052ADBA9@comcast.net>

Some choke cables locked in place when you turn the knob.  Try turning  
the cable within its sheath.  Probably counterclockwise if I remember  
how my choke worked on my first TR6 (a 72).

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Aug 2, 2011, at 12:40 PM, <floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com> <floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com 
 > wrote:

> No ideas on a sticking choke cable?
>
> Joe
>
>
> ---- floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com wrote:
>> Hello all,
>>
>> Been a while since I've posted here and glad to be back.
>>
>> The choke cable in my 72 TR6 is sticking in place.  I took the knob  
>> off and used a set of robo-grips to move it back and forth and gave  
>> it a squirt of Wurth 2000.  Nothing seems to work.  The cables are  
>> not kinked (but are very long.  The carb connections move freely so  
>> I don't THINK that is the problem.  Any suggestions?
>>
>> Joe B
>> Cocoa, FL
>> 72 TR6
>>
>>
>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  2 16:08:02 2011
From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 22:08:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] Cost to replace TR6 clutch
In-Reply-To: <4cf29.23d1dac6.3b6945b4@aol.com>
References: <4cf29.23d1dac6.3b6945b4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.25.1312322901.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Thanks to everyone for the info. I've done the job and was having a problem with the new clutch not engaging properly and was trying to weigh the option of having a shop pull it again. Fortunately, I discovered that I had re-installed the slave cylinder rod in the wrong hole and was not getting full extension on it. With it placed back on the center hole, all seems well. At least for now. Thanks again.
Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, Fla.
74 TR6
73 Stag
58 TR3
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Chip19474 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 08:21:08 
To: <anabil007 at comcast.net>; <lgmtr6 at yahoo.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Cost to replace TR6 clutch

Larry,
 
As Bill mentioned, labor will be a significant portion of your bill!   You 
will save at least a couple of hours if you are willing to do some prep work 
 beforehand and then do the final "fit & finish" work after the clutch is  
installed.......here's how:  Beforehand: remove the passenger seat.   If you 
have nice carpets in the front footwells - remove them.  Remove the  radio 
and center A bracket; remove the transmission tunnel and carpet then  
reinstall it with a few bolts on each side just to keep it attached.
 
Basically, you want to get the interior stripped down to the point where  
the technician only needs to remove the driver's seat and trans tunnel to 
start  the job.  If you run into a snag with frozen bolts, stripped threads, 
etc  while you're doing the prep work it's a lot cheaper for you to deal with 
then  your technician dealing with those issues:) 
 
After the clutch is in and everything is buttoned up, you can replace the  
interior stuff (on your clock!) at your leisure.
 
If the trans comes out okay and everything replaces without a hitch, you  
should save a few bucks.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/1/2011 10:49:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
anabil007 at comcast.net writes:

I guess  it depends on who does the labor  If you do it, then the cost is 
just
for  parts, the LUK kit costs $259 at Moss, and would be the most expensive 
 way
to go.  Most labor is at least $75 per hour  I would estimate at  least 
four
hours, that is about what time it took me and a friend to   replace on my 
TR6




On Aug 1, 2011, at 7:24 AM, lgmtr6  wrote:

> This bounced the first time I tried to post, so sorry if it  posts twice. 
I'm
Just trying to get a ballpark figure for a clutch  replacement on a TR6?
> Thanks
> Larry Miceli
> Mount Dora,  Fla
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>

"Life is  too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace,  CA
Casper
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Aug  2 16:19:12 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 18:19:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [Bulk] Re:  TR3A leather trim
Message-ID: <1ca3f.7070cf36.3b69d1e0@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/2/2011 4:10:34 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ambritts at bellsouth.net writes: 
> I am assuming that you are referring to the arm rests and the curve piece 
> 
> that goes up the rear fender. The way I did mine was to create a wooden 
> form 
> that was placed in a bench vise that the metal piece sat on while the 
> leather was carefully stretched on to it. The leather was soaked in water 
> over night in my tub. I used 3M spray adhesives and they came out great. 
> When the leather dries it is usually after the adhesives has, so it forms 
> a 
> nice tight fit as it shrinks. The trick is the sharpest curve at the 
> bottom. 
> This takes patience and a slow process of rolling it out with your 
> fingers. 
> Any kind of mechanical roller like a wallpaper roller will only flatten 
> out 
> the grain and it looks like crap. If you go to fast than you get wrinkles. 
> 
> If you are interested in the form, I can try and dig a picture out. I 
> remember that I saw the form on this forum, so someone else has it also.
> 

Interesting, I wouldn't have thought the wet leather would stick to the 
glue.  What I need are some spare pieces to learn on.  I always seem to get it 
wrong the first time out.

Thanks

Dave

From tr6parts at charter.net  Tue Aug  2 16:22:05 2011
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 18:22:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Sticking Choke Cable
References: <20110802184048.SYU92.91526.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
Message-ID: <98C65341953148149C3FB511D7FBC6AD@Alan>

Could have a break in it and is hanging up in the shaft.
Time for a new one.
Or possibly new spring on the carb choke return.

Al
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2011 2:40 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Sticking Choke Cable


> No ideas on a sticking choke cable?
>
> Joe
>
>
> ---- floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com wrote:
>> Hello all,
>>
>> Been a while since I've posted here and glad to be back.
>>
>> The choke cable in my 72 TR6 is sticking in place.  I took the knob off 
>> and used a set of robo-grips to move it back and forth and gave it a 
>> squirt of Wurth 2000.  Nothing seems to work.  The cables are not kinked 
>> (but are very long.  The carb connections move freely so I don't THINK 
>> that is the problem.  Any suggestions?
>>
>> Joe B
>> Cocoa, FL
>> 72 TR6
>>
>>
>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/floridatr6 at cfl.rr.com
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Aug  2 21:55:16 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 22:55:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] New Seatbelt Decals
In-Reply-To: <217486AF3F624F4CA8BD7407758FB263@Vista>
References: <217486AF3F624F4CA8BD7407758FB263@Vista>
Message-ID: <FAA6FB580CF54253B47EEA13E6481C34@bboffice>

BTW, I was the requesting list member and the decals look just great.
Colors are crisp and true to the TR2-3 & Early "A" bonnet badge designs. The
are about 1-1/2" or 38mm square to fit right on the lap belt buckle, or
anywhere else you might want to install one.

NFI,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2011 4:00 PM
To: 'list Triumph'
Subject: [TR] New Seatbelt Decals

At the request of one of the list members, I did a special seatbelt decal in
a color combination that was similar to the front badge on TR2 and early TR3
models.  Although there were no seatbelts installed from the factory on
these models, many people have installed airplane style lap belts with a
flat buckle.  These will fit nicely on those buckles.

 

Here is a link (scroll down for the seatbelt decals)

 

http://members.cox.net/spitlist/centercaps.html

 

Cheers,

Joe


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Tue Aug  2 21:30:35 2011
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 23:30:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Form for leather install TR3A
Message-ID: <25EA7A14385C462BBAD745E30E41B073@AlexPC>

Hi Keith,
Let's see if this works. If not, I'll need to figure out how to post some
pictures. I am going to place them in the body.
There are 4 of them. You can kind of guess on the size by scaling the arm
piece. It does not have to be exact. The wood is 3/4"
thick.






----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Stewart" <keithstewart at execulink.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2011 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: TR3A leather trim



On 2011-08-02, at 5:10 PM, Alex Manzo wrote:
>
> HI Dave,
> I am assuming that you are referring to the arm rests and the curve piece
> that goes up the rear fender. The way I did mine was to create a wooden form
> that was placed in a bench vise that the metal piece sat on while the
> leather was carefully stretched on to it. The leather was soaked in water
> over night in my tub. I used 3M spray adhesives and they came out great.
> When the leather dries it is usually after the adhesives has, so it forms a
> nice tight fit as it shrinks. The trick is the sharpest curve at the bottom.
> This takes patience and a slow process of rolling it out with your fingers.
> Any kind of mechanical roller like a wallpaper roller will only flatten out
> the grain and it looks like crap. If you go to fast than you get wrinkles.
> If you are interested in the form, I can try and dig a picture out. I
> remember that I saw the form on this forum, so someone else has it also.

Alex, I would be interested in receiving that picture of the form if you find
it. I too have the leather kit and will be doing this job sometime in the
future. Thanks.

Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSC01095A.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSC01092A.JPG]

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From keithstewart at execulink.com  Tue Aug  2 20:33:30 2011
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 22:33:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A leather trim
In-Reply-To: <mailman.27794.1312323570.3301.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.27794.1312323570.3301.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F64392E6-6D2E-4D65-BA12-B197AAA083A7@execulink.com>

On 2011-08-02, at 5:10 PM, Alex Manzo wrote:
>
> HI Dave,
> I am assuming that you are referring to the arm rests and the curve piece
> that goes up the rear fender. The way I did mine was to create a wooden form
> that was placed in a bench vise that the metal piece sat on while the
> leather was carefully stretched on to it. The leather was soaked in water
> over night in my tub. I used 3M spray adhesives and they came out great.
> When the leather dries it is usually after the adhesives has, so it forms a
> nice tight fit as it shrinks. The trick is the sharpest curve at the bottom.
> This takes patience and a slow process of rolling it out with your fingers.
> Any kind of mechanical roller like a wallpaper roller will only flatten out
> the grain and it looks like crap. If you go to fast than you get wrinkles.
> If you are interested in the form, I can try and dig a picture out. I
> remember that I saw the form on this forum, so someone else has it also.

Alex, I would be interested in receiving that picture of the form if you find
it. I too have the leather kit and will be doing this job sometime in the
future. Thanks.

Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com

From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Wed Aug  3 02:39:59 2011
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 09:39:59 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR3A leather trim
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A20E50CB9@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

Thought I might feed into this one. I have been working with leather for 25
years, albeit in the conservation of medieval manuscripts. But I am aware of
the technical nature of the product. Firstly I would suggest you carefully
examine the leather on offer. I found it really difficult to get "real
leather" much of what is out there is either re-constituted scraps or so
heavily machine grained and surface coated as to be hardly recognizable as
leather at all. You can buy proper vegetable tanned skins with minimum surface
coating from The British Hide Company, they took over the Connolly Hide
business, including stock of leathers.
As regards working with leather, I would definitely NOT recommend soaking in
water, this will have long term effect on the fibre structure which will
embrittle and fail. The trick is pare the flesh side of the skin, which can be
reduced quite radically where it has to be folded around complex shapes and
where it is turned over edges. You can buy purpose made leather paring knives
form bookbinders supply shops, I make my own from high speed steel machine
hack saw blades. You need a very flat surface and a VERY keen edge. A piece of
marble works well as a base. Once you have practiced on scraps and got a feel
for how to work the knife, then all the trimming becomes less daunting.
Contact adhesive is what you need for this kind of work, and you can get one
that gives you some "positioning time", it is the usual rule; start from the
centre and work towards the edges. I am always amazed why paring has not been
part of the upholsterers techniques. I trimmed all my interior in leather, not
correct I now realize but will have
Regards
John

John Gillis
(Senior Conservator)
Library Conservation TCD
Electronic mail to, from or within College may be the subject of a request
under the Freedom of Information Act

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Wed Aug  3 04:56:19 2011
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 06:56:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Bulk] Re:  TR3A leather trim
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A20E50CB9@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A20E50CB9@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <7641827238B34EB8996297A818FE42FC@AlexPC>

Hi John,
Not to be contrary to one of the more experienced, but I had received 
guidance from another leather expert also on the technique I used. He 
mentioned paring but reserved the technique to those with much experience as 
it could be devastating to those you had little or no experience as it could 
result in too thin, uneven or punctured leather. Using water aids in 
increasing pliability of leather and further allows for the use of thicker 
hides. The problem comes with tight bends as I indicated and this requires 
patience.
I forwarded pictures to Keith of my technique and the resulting finished 
product. It has been over 5 years and the leather finish looks as good as 
the day it went on with no release, bulging or creases. My leather came from 
Heritage Upholstery who use the real thing.
I guess there are more ways than 1 to "skin" a cow.
Best regards,
 Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Gillis" <JGILLIS at tcd.ie>
To: <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 4:39 AM
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [TR] TR3A leather trim


> Thought I might feed into this one. I have been working with leather for 
> 25
> years, albeit in the conservation of medieval manuscripts. But I am aware 
> of
> the technical nature of the product. Firstly I would suggest you carefully
> examine the leather on offer. I found it really difficult to get "real
> leather" much of what is out there is either re-constituted scraps or so
> heavily machine grained and surface coated as to be hardly recognizable as
> leather at all. You can buy proper vegetable tanned skins with minimum 
> surface
> coating from The British Hide Company, they took over the Connolly Hide
> business, including stock of leathers.
> As regards working with leather, I would definitely NOT recommend soaking 
> in
> water, this will have long term effect on the fibre structure which will
> embrittle and fail. The trick is pare the flesh side of the skin, which 
> can be
> reduced quite radically where it has to be folded around complex shapes 
> and
> where it is turned over edges. You can buy purpose made leather paring 
> knives
> form bookbinders supply shops, I make my own from high speed steel machine
> hack saw blades. You need a very flat surface and a VERY keen edge. A 
> piece of
> marble works well as a base. Once you have practiced on scraps and got a 
> feel
> for how to work the knife, then all the trimming becomes less daunting.
> Contact adhesive is what you need for this kind of work, and you can get 
> one
> that gives you some "positioning time", it is the usual rule; start from 
> the
> centre and work towards the edges. I am always amazed why paring has not 
> been
> part of the upholsterers techniques. I trimmed all my interior in leather, 
> not
> correct I now realize but will have
> Regards
> John
>
> John Gillis
> (Senior Conservator)
> Library Conservation TCD
> Electronic mail to, from or within College may be the subject of a request
> under the Freedom of Information Act

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Aug  3 06:19:17 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 08:19:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A leather trim
Message-ID: <2ba29.3ab323c7.3b6a96c5@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/3/2011 3:40:21 AM Central Daylight Time, 
JGILLIS at tcd.ie writes: 
> Thought I might feed into this one. I have been working with leather for 
> 25
> years, albeit in the conservation of medieval manuscripts. 

That sounds appropriate since we drive medieval cars.  ;-)

> 
> But I am aware of the technical nature of the product. Firstly I would 
> suggest you carefully examine the leather on offer. I found it really 
> difficult to get "real
> leather" much of what is out there is either re-constituted scraps or so
> heavily machine grained and surface coated as to be hardly recognizable as
> leather at all. You can buy proper vegetable tanned skins with minimum 
> surface
> coating from The British Hide Company, they took over the Connolly Hide
> business, including stock of leathers.
> As regards working with leather, I would definitely NOT recommend soaking 
> in
> water, this will have long term effect on the fibre structure which will
> embrittle and fail. The trick is pare the flesh side of the skin, which 
> can be
> reduced quite radically where it has to be folded around complex shapes 
> and
> where it is turned over edges. You can buy purpose made leather paring 
> knives
> form bookbinders supply shops, I make my own from high speed steel machine
> hack saw blades. You need a very flat surface and a VERY keen edge. A 
> piece of
> marble works well as a base. Once you have practiced on scraps and got a 
> feel
> for how to work the knife, then all the trimming becomes less daunting.
> Contact adhesive is what you need for this kind of work, and you can get 
> one
> that gives you some "positioning time", it is the usual rule; start from 
> the
> centre and work towards the edges. I am always amazed why paring has not 
> been
> part of the upholsterers techniques. I trimmed all my interior in leather, 
> not
> correct I now realize but will have


Sounds like it is more of an art than a science.

And, hey, it's your car.  If you want all leather, great.  That's what the 
factory would have done if they had the budget.

Dave

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Aug  3 12:47:07 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 14:47:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hauling out of the Keys
Message-ID: <2A2F9C8616B749ECBDDCD6D102279C88@DCH6RFC1>

Sorry to bomb the list, but does anyone have a contact who would haul a TR6
from Key West to Michigan?  A cousin of my wife's is relocating and is
having difficulty finding anyone to transport his car.  Thanks !

Andrew Uprichard

From jtnichols at comcast.net  Wed Aug  3 12:50:26 2011
From: jtnichols at comcast.net (John T Nichols)
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2011 14:50:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oil Filters
Message-ID: <4E399872.2030208@comcast.net>

I have several cartridge type (non-can) oil filters in my garage: Lucas 
F4645 and WIPAC 0F356. Anybody know with which TR these are used? TR3 or 
TR7?

John T. Nichols
'58 TR3A TS32093LO
'86 TVR 280i


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From greg.meythaler at intel.com  Wed Aug  3 12:57:56 2011
From: greg.meythaler at intel.com (Meythaler, Greg)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 11:57:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Sticking Choke Cable
Message-ID: <A88B5DEB8B3EFC499BDCD4440A79A40E013237907D@orsmsx503.amr.corp.intel.com>

Once saw a car that had sticking choke cable and throttle cable that was
missing it's engine ground strap, cable was acting as the ground and welding
itself inside the sheath.

-greg




> Hello all,

>

> Been a while since I've posted here and glad to be back.

>

> The choke cable in my 72 TR6 is sticking in place.  I took the knob off and
used a set of robo-grips to move it back and forth and gave it a squirt of
Wurth 2000.  Nothing seems to work.  The cables are not kinked (but are very
long.  The carb connections move freely so I don't THINK that is the problem.
Any suggestions?

>

> Joe B

> Cocoa, FL

> 72 TR6

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Wed Aug  3 19:44:07 2011
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 20:44:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] three point seat belts in a tr3
Message-ID: <ECBE3CF4-C70F-41BE-B541-496D5DCEB806@ties2.net>

My wife thinks she would be safer with a shoulder belt in addition to the seat
belt. What is involved in this installation, and does anyone have a brand
recommendation?  For my part, I think the seat belt alone will keep the body
with the car after the crash.

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  3 19:48:44 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 18:48:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] wire wheels
Message-ID: <1312422524.8807.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I'm thinking of buying chrome wire wheels (tr-3) and am just curious about
what other peoples experiences have been with wire wheels.  Are there problems
with having them get knocked out of round?  Are there more problems with
keeping them balanced?  Just wondering how people like wire wheels.

gary n.

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Wed Aug  3 19:52:33 2011
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 21:52:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] three point seat belts in a tr3
Message-ID: <2341a.fd08b8e.3b6b5561@aol.com>

I fitted 3-point belts in my early 3A. I would say the chest needs to be  
kept well away from that non-collapsible steering column.
 
I used Securon belts, drilled a hole through each rear wheel well and  then 
used very thick pieces of steel, like thick washers, to make sure the third 
 (shoulder) point did not pull out of the wheel well in an emergency. I 
have yet  to test it's effectiveness, but it makes me feel much safer....
 
Tim
 
 
 
My wife  thinks she would be safer with a shoulder belt in addition to the  
seat
belt. What is involved in this installation, and does anyone have a  brand
recommendation?  For my part, I think the seat belt alone will  keep the 
body
with the car after the  crash.


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Wed Aug  3 19:58:32 2011
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 21:58:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] wire wheels
Message-ID: <23705.1983b349.3b6b56c8@aol.com>

I love my painted wire wheels. I think the painted ones look more  
purposeful than the chrome ones, which I think look a bit over-done. More to the  
point, I have had 48-spoke and 60-spoke wire wheels go out of round and 
require  tuning. However, since I fitted my 72-spoke, 5.5-inch wide wires to my 
TR3A I  have not had to make any adjustments. These are the ones originally 
fitted to  TR6's, I think. They are very strong, do not require frequent 
adjustments and  have been used by racer friends of mine since the mid-1970's 
with no  problems.
 
I ditched my 60-spokers due to them only allowing skinny rubber that was  
not up to the excellent TR3 disc brakes and also because of the  maintenance.
 
Tim
 
 
 
I'm  thinking of buying chrome wire wheels (tr-3) and am just curious about
what  other peoples experiences have been with wire wheels.  Are there  
problems
with having them get knocked out of round?  Are there more  problems with
keeping them balanced?  Just wondering how people like  wire wheels.

gary n.


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug  4 01:44:56 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 00:44:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <1312422524.8807.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <1312422524.8807.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5AA52134E7964B54B7705150EF67396B@Meislaptop>

Yes to all of those problems, and many more you haven't thought of.  They
look great, but IMO represent a significant step up in the amount of
periodic maintenance required, and the number of problems experienced.

Just a few examples:
Shortly after buying my 59 TR3A, I changed one of the rear tires.  Had a
terrible time getting the knockoff loose; discovered why after I rolled back
out of the driveway and tried to drive up the hill.  A loud ZZZZ showed that
the splines were ruined (which turned out to be true for all 4 wheels and
adapters).  Good thing I only had one off, since once the splines let go,
the brakes are no longer connected to the wheel.

In a fit of insanity, I bought all new chrome wires, adapters, knockoffs,
etc. for the Stag.  Less than a year later, I discovered that one of them
had several broken spokes.  

When the replacement wheel arrived, all 4 wheels were removed, splines
cleaned and lubed, etc.  About 8 months after that, 1500 miles from home, I
had to replace a tire.  It took three of us working in shifts to get the
knockoff off!  No idea why, but the threads were seized incredibly tight.
No signs of corrosion, and they fit smoothly after cleaning.  Apparently the
wire wheel shop had used the wrong kind of grease on the knockoff threads,
and it had turned into Loctite.

Then there is Dad's TR3A, which has had a splined adapter come loose from
the hub twice in its life (that I know of).  First time, I dang near flipped
it.  Second time, the escaping wheel ripped the fender off.  

And heaven help you if you neglect the annual greasing of the splines.  I
have seen shops have to literally cut them off with a torch.

-- Randall

From geomurphy at windstream.net  Thu Aug  4 04:32:30 2011
From: geomurphy at windstream.net (George)
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 06:32:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Top Bows
Message-ID: <000001cc5291$d1d36750$757a35f0$@net>

What is the correct color to paint the top bows?  I have seen several TR's
with the top bows painted to match the body color and some painted to match
the top color but most that I have seen are painted Black.   When I sanded
mine down to bare metal I found a red primer and then a white paint and then
a black paint.  I thought all top bows were originally painted black from
the factory.  Am I wrong?  George Murphy 1960 TR3a Waleska GA



_______________________________________
No infections found in this outgoing message
Scanned by iolo System Shield.
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From tr3 at chello.nl  Thu Aug  4 05:15:30 2011
From: tr3 at chello.nl (Jaap Dekker)
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 13:15:30 +0200
Subject: [TR] Tr3 hardtop window similar to Spitfire pre '70?
Message-ID: <567973B7F2D046658C87542ABA840360@PCvanJaap>

Hello,

Can anybody inform me wether they are interchangeable?

Thanks for a great list!

Jaap Dekker.
Holland.

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Aug  4 08:17:19 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 10:17:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Top Bows
In-Reply-To: <000001cc5291$d1d36750$757a35f0$@net>
References: <000001cc5291$d1d36750$757a35f0$@net>
Message-ID: <8CE20C85AA1B826-1684-1424A@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>

 This discussion/debate comes up every so often. I seem to remember, at one
time, consensus being that the top bows were body color up to perhaps the
early or mid-TS70000 range, after which they were usually the same "sandalwood
beige" as the bows for the early TR4s. Frankly, it only really matters if you
need that last extra point or so for Concours judging. :D



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: George <geomurphy at windstream.net>


What is the correct color to paint the top bows?  I have seen several TR's
with the top bows painted to match the body color and some painted to match
the top color but most that I have seen are painted Black.   When I sanded
mine down to bare metal I found a red primer and then a white paint and then
a black paint.  I thought all top bows were originally painted black from
the factory.  Am I wrong?  George Murphy 1960 TR3a Waleska GA

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu Aug  4 10:54:03 2011
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 12:54:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Top Bows
In-Reply-To: <000001cc5291$d1d36750$757a35f0$@net>
References: <000001cc5291$d1d36750$757a35f0$@net>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFD_j9kgKv3xdrda8WD3mNyHShrFB_GFGJp63-Uk77rmng@mail.gmail.com>

My TR3B (TSF Series) was originally signal red with black leather
interior and white weather equipment.  The top bows were white as
well.

Don

From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com  Thu Aug  4 11:19:39 2011
From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6)
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 17:19:39 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Top Bows
In-Reply-To: <000001cc5291$d1d36750$757a35f0$@net>
References: <000001cc5291$d1d36750$757a35f0$@net>
Message-ID: <mailman.27.1312478396.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>

My TR3 bows are black and the car was originally light blue. A friends TR3, same year, same color, has light blue top bows. So I don't think there is a correct color or not.
Larry Miceli
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: "George"<geomurphy at windstream.net>
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 06:32:30 
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A Top Bows

What is the correct color to paint the top bows?  I have seen several TR's
with the top bows painted to match the body color and some painted to match
the top color but most that I have seen are painted Black.   When I sanded
mine down to bare metal I found a red primer and then a white paint and then
a black paint.  I thought all top bows were originally painted black from
the factory.  Am I wrong?  George Murphy 1960 TR3a Waleska GA



_______________________________________
No infections found in this outgoing message
Scanned by iolo System Shield.
http://www.iolo.com


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From Loumetelko at aol.com  Thu Aug  4 14:27:11 2011
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 16:27:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Top Bows
Message-ID: <25b36.12a9946.3b6c5a9f@aol.com>

What is the correct color to paint the top bows?  
 
Hi George:
According to TRA's Judging Standards  "On nearly all cars the hoodstick 
assemblies and hoodstick mounting screws were  painted the color of the body of 
the car.  Some very late cars may have had  their hoodsticks painted black 
or a buff (semi-gloss tan)".  I would  interpret "very late" as TS70000+.
 
You do have a copy of this side screen  guide, don't you?  If not it's free 
at TRA's web site  _www.triumphregister.com_ 
(http://www.triumphregister.com) 
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

_______________________________________

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug  4 16:57:00 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 17:57:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Top Bows
In-Reply-To: <25b36.12a9946.3b6c5a9f@aol.com>
References: <25b36.12a9946.3b6c5a9f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E135C786223B4C619E514214B131F726@ranteer.local>

imho the top bows look really pretty the same color as the car 

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Aug  4 18:46:19 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 20:46:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Top Bows
In-Reply-To: <25b36.12a9946.3b6c5a9f@aol.com>
References: <25b36.12a9946.3b6c5a9f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE21203948B8BA-98C-1B38A@web-mmc-d10.sysops.aol.com>

 Some reference points:

TS65633L (what's left of it) was white originally and had white hoodsticks
TS71909L was originally green (and about 50% original paint). It had green
hoodsticks, but I cannot be absolutely sure they were originally that color,
since about 1/3 of the body had been brush-painted in a similar green, and the
entire interior had been dyed/painted first blue, then tan and finally
black...all over the original Silverstone Grey! (Hard to say if, after all
that, they'd bother to color-code the hoodsticks to the body or if they were
original. Oh, and the car's long gone, so I can't check.)
TS73624L (built a whopping 18 days after 71909) was a white car with original
"sandalwood beige" (buff, tan, whatever) hoodsticks.

So the change may well have been somewhere in the early 70000 range as Lou
indicates!



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Loumetelko <Loumetelko at aol.com>


What is the correct color to paint the top bows?

Hi George:
According to TRA's Judging Standards  "On nearly all cars the hoodstick
assemblies and hoodstick mounting screws were  painted the color of the body
of
the car.  Some very late cars may have had  their hoodsticks painted black
or a buff (semi-gloss tan)".  I would  interpret "very late" as TS70000+.

You do have a copy of this side screen  guide, don't you?  If not it's free
at TRA's web site  _www.triumphregister.com_
(http://www.triumphregister.com)

Lou Metelko

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri Aug  5 07:42:48 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 2011 09:42:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] three point seat belts in a tr3
In-Reply-To: <ECBE3CF4-C70F-41BE-B541-496D5DCEB806@ties2.net>
References: <ECBE3CF4-C70F-41BE-B541-496D5DCEB806@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <4E3BF358.9060409@blacksburg.net>

On 8/3/2011 9:44 PM, Joe DeMuth wrote:
> My wife thinks she would be safer with a shoulder belt in addition to the seat
> belt. What is involved in this installation, and does anyone have a brand
> recommendation?  For my part, I think the seat belt alone will keep the body
> with the car after the crash.
>    
Be very careful to keep the shoulder link (where it ties to the tub) no 
lower than the shoulder, as spine compression could result in an 
accident.  In a stock TR, this is a major challenge.  In my TR4 I 
mounted a roll bar, bolted to the frame at the floor and large plates 
thru the wheel arches, then I routed the shoulder belt over the bar 
cross tube which I mounted just above shoulder level.

hth

j

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  5 08:04:50 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 10:04:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR7/8 Radiator Expansion Tank
Message-ID: <blu160-w64AEB86E64212DD971B2BCBA3C0@phx.gbl>

I am looking for a wedge radiator expansion tank to experiment with.  Anybody
have one in a parts pile they want to get rid of?

Thanks,
Marty

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Aug  5 08:40:14 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 14:40:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] three point seat belts in a tr3
In-Reply-To: <4E3BF358.9060409@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <768666166.219731.1312555214458.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

J.C., that's absolutely the way to go.  Don't forget to pad the roll bar because you won't be wearing a helmet on the street.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
> To: "Joe DeMuth" <jdemuth at ties2.net>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, August 5, 2011 8:42:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] three point seat belts in a tr3
> On 8/3/2011 9:44 PM, Joe DeMuth wrote:
> > My wife thinks she would be safer with a shoulder belt in addition
> > to the seat
> > belt. What is involved in this installation, and does anyone have a
> > brand
> > recommendation? For my part, I think the seat belt alone will keep
> > the body
> > with the car after the crash.
> >
> Be very careful to keep the shoulder link (where it ties to the tub)
> no
> lower than the shoulder, as spine compression could result in an
> accident. In a stock TR, this is a major challenge. In my TR4 I
> mounted a roll bar, bolted to the frame at the floor and large plates
> thru the wheel arches, then I routed the shoulder belt over the bar
> cross tube which I mounted just above shoulder level.
> 
> hth
> 
> j
> 
> --
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go
> 
> 
> triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  5 10:41:35 2011
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 09:41:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] three point seat belts in a tr3
In-Reply-To: <768666166.219731.1312555214458.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <4E3BF358.9060409@blacksburg.net>
	<768666166.219731.1312555214458.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAJaD1DOHxtaN-L7o+VhgGcnu9JJSsxEnEnsPLpTcbbM68nKJSw@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, but the problem with roll bars is that they restrict the seat's
backward slide. I, being 6 2" ,  had to remove mine to achieve a modicum of
comfort.  Maybe there's a roll bar that doesn't attach to the floor right
behind the seats.
John Howard


On Fri, Aug 5, 2011 at 7:40 AM, <pethier at comcast.net> wrote:

> J.C., that's absolutely the way to go.  Don't forget to pad the roll bar
> because you won't be wearing a helmet on the street.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> http://www.mnautox.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
> > To: "Joe DeMuth" <jdemuth at ties2.net>
> > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Sent: Friday, August 5, 2011 8:42:48 AM
> > Subject: Re: [TR] three point seat belts in a tr3
> > On 8/3/2011 9:44 PM, Joe DeMuth wrote:
> > > My wife thinks she would be safer with a shoulder belt in addition
> > > to the seat
> > > belt. What is involved in this installation, and does anyone have a
> > > brand
> > > recommendation? For my part, I think the seat belt alone will keep
> > > the body
> > > with the car after the crash.
> > >
> > Be very careful to keep the shoulder link (where it ties to the tub)
> > no
> > lower than the shoulder, as spine compression could result in an
> > accident. In a stock TR, this is a major challenge. In my TR4 I
> > mounted a roll bar, bolted to the frame at the floor and large plates
> > thru the wheel arches, then I routed the shoulder belt over the bar
> > cross tube which I mounted just above shoulder level.
> >
> > hth
> >
> > j
> >
> > --
> > Jim Hassall
> > Blacksburg VA
> > '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> > 99% finished, 90% to go
> >
> >
> > triumphs at autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri Aug  5 14:10:30 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 2011 16:10:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] three point seat belts in a tr3
In-Reply-To: <CAJaD1DOHxtaN-L7o+VhgGcnu9JJSsxEnEnsPLpTcbbM68nKJSw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4E3BF358.9060409@blacksburg.net>
	<768666166.219731.1312555214458.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<CAJaD1DOHxtaN-L7o+VhgGcnu9JJSsxEnEnsPLpTcbbM68nKJSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E3C4E36.2090703@blacksburg.net>

On 8/5/2011 12:41 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> Yes, but the problem with roll bars is that they restrict the seat's 
> backward slide. I, being 6 2" ,  had to remove mine to achieve a 
> modicum of comfort.  Maybe there's a roll bar that doesn't attach to 
> the floor right behind the seats.
> John Howard
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 5, 2011 at 7:40 AM, <pethier at comcast.net 
> <mailto:pethier at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     J.C., that's absolutely the way to go.  Don't forget to pad the
>     roll bar because you won't be wearing a helmet on the street.
>

John, I'm also 6'2" and seat adjustment isn't a problem because I 
fabricated a set of brackets (custom roll bar) which bolt to the frame, 
on which the bar is offset and angled to the rear.  There's a gnat's 
eyelash of clearance between the bar and the wheel arch, which leaves 
plenty of adjustment.  And as Phil mentioned, the bars are padded 
(padding must be removed to raise the top, but a small price to pay).  
If you're interested in fhaving a bar made, I can send pix.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  6 07:45:36 2011
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 08:45:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] three point seat belts in a tr3
In-Reply-To: <4E3BF358.9060409@blacksburg.net>
References: <ECBE3CF4-C70F-41BE-B541-496D5DCEB806@ties2.net>,
	<4E3BF358.9060409@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W193E91C54D55ABC3D2AAFFE13F0@phx.gbl>

> Be very careful to keep the shoulder link (where it ties to the tub) no
> lower than the shoulder, as spine compression could result in an
> accident. I have heard the concern about the mounting point before and it
makes sense to me.However I see that the mounting point on my Mata is a little
below my shoulder.

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sat Aug  6 13:50:28 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 14:50:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Rear Brake Connector Leak
Message-ID: <7EC3E1F7-A35D-4144-A1AD-B8E01A93AFB6@genfiniti.com>

All,

I started to bleed the brake system today and have discovered a leak at the
rear brake connector.
It's in a not-to-friendly place, and I want to make it more accessible.
Can anyone share with me the best place to access this from?

I was thinking to loosen the rear tailpipe mounts, move it to the passenger
side, giving me more room to access it from the center, underneath the car.
Any better suggestions?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From geomurphy at windstream.net  Sat Aug  6 18:35:06 2011
From: geomurphy at windstream.net (George)
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 20:35:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
Message-ID: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>

My TR3a front apron does not have the chrome letters on the front.  I think
it could be an aftermarket part since there are no holes drilled for the
letters to be attached.  Does anyone know how anyone could drill the holes
to be able to put the Triumph letters where they are supposed to be?  Is
there a pattern or something anyone could use to lay out the pattern?  Or
should I just leave it as is?  I have seen one at a car show that did not
have the letters and didn't look too bad.  Any ideas? George M. 60 TR3a
Waleska GA



_______________________________________
No infections found in this outgoing message
Scanned by iolo System Shield.
http://www.iolo.com

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Aug  6 19:21:45 2011
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 21:21:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
In-Reply-To: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>
References: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>
Message-ID: <68C463E7D02047179A96B135DB06A223@AlexPC>

George,
My apron came the same way. What I did was find an apron at a swap meet, in 
my case Carlisle in PA, where there was a used  apron for sale without the 
letters on it. I ran some sheetrock tape across the holes for the  letters. 
did the same coming down from the top of the apron and attached to the cross 
piece. This gave me a locator when placing the template (to be) on my apron.

Then I poked holes through the tape where all the hole for the letters were 
with a pick on the apron. This gave me the template I needed to transfer the 
hole locations to my apron. Drilled the holes and later after paint attached 
the letters. Any good flexible material will work for a template. I just 
happened to have my choice on hand. The trick is to find an apron that does 
not have the letters attached. Check with club members in your area who may 
have a used spare apron sitting around.

Hope this helps.
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George" <geomurphy at windstream.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 8:35 PM
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron


> My TR3a front apron does not have the chrome letters on the front.  I 
> think
> it could be an aftermarket part since there are no holes drilled for the
> letters to be attached.  Does anyone know how anyone could drill the holes
> to be able to put the Triumph letters where they are supposed to be?  Is
> there a pattern or something anyone could use to lay out the pattern?  Or
> should I just leave it as is?  I have seen one at a car show that did not
> have the letters and didn't look too bad.  Any ideas? George M. 60 TR3a
> Waleska GA
>
>
>
> _______________________________________

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat Aug  6 20:44:52 2011
From: tfansher at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?VG9tIEZhbnNoZXI=?=)
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 22:44:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?tr3A_Front_Apron?=
Message-ID: <20110807024453.F054818765C@autox.team.net>

As a side note, the ribbed letters and the smooth letters have different hole patterns.Tom 

Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

----- Reply message -----
From: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, Aug 6, 2011 8:21 pm
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
To: "*Triumphs List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>, "George" <geomurphy at windstream.net>

George,
My apron came the same way. What I did was find an apron at a swap meet, in my case Carlisle in PA, where there was a used  apron for sale without the letters on it. I ran some sheetrock tape across the holes for the  letters. did the same coming down from the top of the apron and attached to the cross piece. This gave me a locator when placing the template (to be) on my apron.

Then I poked holes through the tape where all the hole for the letters were with a pick on the apron. This gave me the template I needed to transfer the hole locations to my apron. Drilled the holes and later after paint attached the letters. Any good flexible material will work for a template. I just happened to have my choice on hand. The trick is to find an apron that does not have the letters attached. Check with club members in your area who may have a used spare apron sitting around.

Hope this helps.
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6



----- Original Message ----- From: "George" <geomurphy at windstream.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 8:35 PM
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron


> My TR3a front apron does not have the chrome letters on the front.  I > think
> it could be an aftermarket part since there are no holes drilled for the
> letters to be attached.  Does anyone know how anyone could drill the holes
> to be able to put the Triumph letters where they are supposed to be?  Is
> there a pattern or something anyone could use to lay out the pattern?  Or
> should I just leave it as is?  I have seen one at a car show that did not
> have the letters and didn't look too bad.  Any ideas? George M. 60 TR3a
> Waleska GA
>
>
>
> _______________________________________


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat Aug  6 21:03:51 2011
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 20:03:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
In-Reply-To: <68C463E7D02047179A96B135DB06A223@AlexPC>
References: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>
	<68C463E7D02047179A96B135DB06A223@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <4E3E0097.7060401@comcast.net>

There are at least 2 styles of letters, ribbed and plain, and I don't 
believe that the pins are in the same place, that is , they are not 
interchangeable.  So before you do this, make sure the apron  you are 
using to create the template had the same style letters that you plan on 
using.

Bob


On 8/6/2011 6:21 PM, Alex wrote:
> George,
> My apron came the same way. What I did was find an apron at a swap 
> meet, in my case Carlisle in PA, where there was a used  apron for 
> sale without the letters on it. I ran some sheetrock tape across the 
> holes for the  letters. did the same coming down from the top of the 
> apron and attached to the cross piece. This gave me a locator when 
> placing the template (to be) on my apron.
>
> Then I poked holes through the tape where all the hole for the letters 
> were with a pick on the apron. This gave me the template I needed to 
> transfer the hole locations to my apron. Drilled the holes and later 
> after paint attached the letters. Any good flexible material will work 
> for a template. I just happened to have my choice on hand. The trick 
> is to find an apron that does not have the letters attached. Check 
> with club members in your area who may have a used spare apron sitting 
> around.
>
> Hope this helps.
> Alex Manzo
> 59 TR3A
> 72 TR6
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "George" <geomurphy at windstream.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 8:35 PM
> Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
>
>
>> My TR3a front apron does not have the chrome letters on the front.  I 
>> think
>> it could be an aftermarket part since there are no holes drilled for the
>> letters to be attached.  Does anyone know how anyone could drill the 
>> holes
>> to be able to put the Triumph letters where they are supposed to be?  Is
>> there a pattern or something anyone could use to lay out the 
>> pattern?  Or
>> should I just leave it as is?  I have seen one at a car show that did 
>> not
>> have the letters and didn't look too bad.  Any ideas? George M. 60 TR3a
>> Waleska GA
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug  6 22:08:24 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 21:08:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
In-Reply-To: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>
References: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>
Message-ID: <01E427F9EC6249649DE03FE3F868D0E5@Meislaptop>

FWIW, factory replacement aprons also came without the holes drilled;
because there are two different patterns depending on whether the car had
smooth or ribbed letters.  Both the apron on my previous TR3A and the TR3A
apron on my current TR3 are the same way.

-- Randall

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sat Aug  6 22:23:49 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 00:23:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
In-Reply-To: <20110807024453.F054818765C@autox.team.net>
References: <20110807024453.F054818765C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CE22D0F0CC2261-AC8-35698@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>

 What's the commission number? Odds are for a 1960, it would've had ribbed
letters originally, but they could be plain letters if it's well up in the
mid-TS70000 range.

One other thing to consider before final drilling: have whatever set of
letters you use in hand and make sure that their pins are in the same places
as the holes you're about to drill. I don't know if it happens so much with
the repro letters, but some repro badges have pins in very slightly different
spacings from the originals.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Fansher <tfansher at comcast.net>


As a side note, the ribbed letters and the smooth letters have different hole
patterns.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Aug  7 07:44:07 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 08:44:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
In-Reply-To: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>
References: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>
Message-ID: <CDF7C4599A7F4BF69689105744957EAC@bboffice>

George,

If your commission number is under TS50000 you need the ribbed letter,
smooth letters if over.  You may have done this but my PO had just filled
the holes with bondo, I re-located them by sanding on the backside then
drilling them out.

Bill


 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George
Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 7:35 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron

My TR3a front apron does not have the chrome letters on the front.  I think
it could be an aftermarket part since there are no holes drilled for the
letters to be attached.  Does anyone know how anyone could drill the holes
to be able to put the Triumph letters where they are supposed to be?  Is
there a pattern or something anyone could use to lay out the pattern?  Or
should I just leave it as is?  I have seen one at a car show that did not
have the letters and didn't look too bad.  Any ideas? George M. 60 TR3a
Waleska GA



_______________________________________
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Aug  7 08:47:03 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 07:47:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
In-Reply-To: <68C463E7D02047179A96B135DB06A223@AlexPC>
References: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>
	<68C463E7D02047179A96B135DB06A223@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFM01T_0QfA8Y4ZeA-+em+8JsrsYEVRQ9gvpCsR2iGumw@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 6:21 PM, Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net> wrote:

> ...Drilled the holes and later after paint attached the letters...
>

If your apron is already painted drilling may create a problem.  I had to
drill for my rear 'TRIUMPH' badge when the body guy thoughtfully welded up
those holes.  The car was already painted (base and clear coat).  All went
well until a couple of years later when cracks appeared in the paint
radiating from a couple of the holes.  There was not a load of bondo on
there, perhaps a skim of filler was used.  Perhaps I should have chamfered
the edge of the hole after drilling or some other technique.

I mention all this in case anyone has a good technique for drilling after
painted.

Geo

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sun Aug  7 09:06:36 2011
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2011 11:06:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFM01T_0QfA8Y4ZeA-+em+8JsrsYEVRQ9gvpCsR2iGumw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>
	<68C463E7D02047179A96B135DB06A223@AlexPC>
	<CANzE1bFM01T_0QfA8Y4ZeA-+em+8JsrsYEVRQ9gvpCsR2iGumw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E3EA9FC.8000609@frontiernet.net>

All you needed to do was coat the edges with some touch up paint to keep 
moisture from getting underneath. What you're seeing is the paint 
cracking as moisture gets into the area you've exposed by drilling.

George Richardson


On 8/7/2011 10:47 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 6:21 PM, Alex<ambritts at bellsouth.net>  wrote:
>
>> ...Drilled the holes and later after paint attached the letters...
>>
> If your apron is already painted drilling may create a problem.  I had to
> drill for my rear 'TRIUMPH' badge when the body guy thoughtfully welded up
> those holes.  The car was already painted (base and clear coat).  All went
> well until a couple of years later when cracks appeared in the paint
> radiating from a couple of the holes.  There was not a load of bondo on
> there, perhaps a skim of filler was used.  Perhaps I should have chamfered
> the edge of the hole after drilling or some other technique.
>
> I mention all this in case anyone has a good technique for drilling after
> painted.
>
> Geo
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gprtech at frontiernet.net

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun Aug  7 09:09:24 2011
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 11:09:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
In-Reply-To: <000101cc5512$88b7f030$9a27d090$@net>
References: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>
	<68C463E7D02047179A96B135DB06A223@AlexPC>
	<000101cc5512$88b7f030$9a27d090$@net>
Message-ID: <C34DF5A9A6644DE89BAC97083798414D@AlexPC>

You are welcome George. Just an additional few notes from experience. First 
and foremost the other suggestions about having the new letters handy is 
very important. The other listers are exactly correctly as I can attest to 
that. I now remember that I did not check the hole alignment before drilling 
and one was off a little. It's been 5 years) Required opening the hole a 
little. After you transfer your mark from the template through the holes, 
place each letter on your marks to make sure they line up. Use a bit 
slightly larger than the pins to allow for letter movement. If you don't and 
the holes are cocked a little you will hate it. A little bigger allows for 
movement for the letters before you lock them down with the spring clip. It 
further allows for pushing the letters as a final alignment as the apron 
sits on the car and you can see them from a distance. The second point is to 
have a small file or dremel that you can remove the burr from the underside 
of each hole. Make sure you do this before painting. (don't ask how I know) 
:o)
Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George" <geomurphy at windstream.net>
To: "'Alex'" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2011 10:58 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] tr3A Front Apron


> Alex,  Thanks for the info.  I believe I have located the proper apron
> locally to get a pattern.  My letters are the smooth ones and the guy that
> has the apron Thinks that the letters that was on it was the same type.
> Thanks for the info.  The whole car needs to go to the body shop to get
> slicked up and painted, it is a good time to get this job done.  Thanks
> again.  George Murphy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex [mailto:ambritts at bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 9:22 PM
> To: *Triumphs List; George
> Subject: Re: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
>
> George,
> My apron came the same way. What I did was find an apron at a swap meet, 
> in
> my case Carlisle in PA, where there was a used  apron for sale without the
> letters on it. I ran some sheetrock tape across the holes for the 
> letters.
> did the same coming down from the top of the apron and attached to the 
> cross
>
> piece. This gave me a locator when placing the template (to be) on my 
> apron.
>
> Then I poked holes through the tape where all the hole for the letters 
> were
> with a pick on the apron. This gave me the template I needed to transfer 
> the
>
> hole locations to my apron. Drilled the holes and later after paint 
> attached
>
> the letters. Any good flexible material will work for a template. I just
> happened to have my choice on hand. The trick is to find an apron that 
> does
> not have the letters attached. Check with club members in your area who 
> may
> have a used spare apron sitting around.
>
> Hope this helps.
> Alex Manzo
> 59 TR3A
> 72 TR6
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "George" <geomurphy at windstream.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 8:35 PM
> Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
>
>
>> My TR3a front apron does not have the chrome letters on the front.  I
>> think
>> it could be an aftermarket part since there are no holes drilled for the
>> letters to be attached.  Does anyone know how anyone could drill the 
>> holes
>> to be able to put the Triumph letters where they are supposed to be?  Is
>> there a pattern or something anyone could use to lay out the pattern?  Or
>> should I just leave it as is?  I have seen one at a car show that did not
>> have the letters and didn't look too bad.  Any ideas? George M. 60 TR3a
>> Waleska GA
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________
>>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________
> No infections found in this incoming message
> Scanned by iolo System ShieldR
> http://www.iolo.com
>
>
> _______________________________________
> No infections found in this outgoing message
> Scanned by iolo System Shield.
> http://www.iolo.com

From sothornton at aol.com  Sun Aug  7 09:42:30 2011
From: sothornton at aol.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 10:42:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party
Message-ID: <234514D0-4F71-4574-A80A-7827DF70882C@aol.com>

Good morning List-


So, who is going to The Summer Party?

I am. See you there?



Steven O. Thornton
Attorney at Law
1011 Lehman Avenue
Suite 102
Bowling Green, KY 42103

270-781-6630

 Sent from my iPhone

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Aug  7 14:17:46 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 16:17:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party
In-Reply-To: <234514D0-4F71-4574-A80A-7827DF70882C@aol.com>
References: <234514D0-4F71-4574-A80A-7827DF70882C@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU160-W291A3AC70211B52D7C420ABA3E0@phx.gbl>

Evelyn and I will be there with the TR8, our son Jason will be there with his
GT6.  We were talking about it today. We started attending these in 1992.
Missed two summer parties in all those years. We would be lost in august
without our pilgrimage to Armaugh:)   Marty
 > From: sothornton at aol.com
> Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 10:42:30 -0500
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; jswauger at comcast.net
> Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party
>
> Good morning List-
>
>
> So, who is going to The Summer Party?
>
> I am. See you there?
>
>
>
> Steven O. Thornton
> Attorney at Law
> 1011 Lehman Avenue
> Suite 102
> Bowling Green, KY 42103
>
> 270-781-6630
>
>  Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trmarty at hotmail.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Aug  7 15:22:38 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 16:22:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFM01T_0QfA8Y4ZeA-+em+8JsrsYEVRQ9gvpCsR2iGumw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net><68C463E7D02047179A96B135DB06A223@AlexPC>
	<CANzE1bFM01T_0QfA8Y4ZeA-+em+8JsrsYEVRQ9gvpCsR2iGumw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DECBE7E6BDAC4A0DA6E2D5D951B3426D@bboffice>

<I mention all this in case anyone has a good technique for drilling after
painted....>Geo


MY TIP:
I used a small spot of clear silicon under each letter, on each pin and then
on the back over the speed nuts.  Besides sealing, it has the added
advantage of keeping the letters from moving around and creating little
scuffs in the paint around the edge of each letter.
Bill

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Aug  7 20:59:10 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 19:59:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] cockpit rear surround metal trim
Message-ID: <1312772350.49790.YahooMailNeo@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

List,
I'm in need of the metal trim pieces (the ones covered in vinyl) for the
cockpit surround (tr-3).  I have the dash piece but not the others.  I think
someone on the list offered these some time ago but i've forgotten who.  If
anyone has these and wants to sell I'd be interested.
thanks!

gary n.

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Mon Aug  8 13:25:54 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 15:25:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Coorect Door Mirror for 62 TR4
Message-ID: <005201cc5600$fe36ba50$faa42ef0$@rr.com>

Anyone know the correct mirror setup for an early (CT5212LO) 62 TR4.  I have
seen the mirrors on the fenders, flat round Lucas mirror, and the bullet
mirror.  Looking for a correct one for concours.

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4 

75 TR6

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Mon Aug  8 17:08:14 2011
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 19:08:14 -0400
Subject: [TR]  TRF's Summer Party
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1312826404.22561.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1312826404.22561.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <734596D3-BB68-44E7-9A3A-D3A9BC2E70CF@execulink.com>

On 2011-08-08, at 2:00 PM, marty sukey wrote:
>
> Evelyn and I will be there with the TR8, our son Jason will be there with
his
> GT6.  We were talking about it today. We started attending these in 1992.
> Missed two summer parties in all those years. We would be lost in august
> without our pilgrimage to Armaugh:)   Marty

Chris and I will be there with our new TR6. We have been to every Summer Party
except the very first one. We even visited on the Summer Party weekend in
those years when Charles did not have a Summer Party. When our kids were
younger, it was part of our family summer vacation. In fact, when those film
crews were videoing the event many years ago, there is a shot of the five of
us in the TR4 leaving the grounds to head off to the Drive-In. Many great
memories.


Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Mon Aug  8 18:41:21 2011
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 20:41:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Coorect Door Mirror for 62 TR4
Message-ID: <19da9.7b94e0f7.3b71dc31@aol.com>

Anyone know the correct mirror setup for an early (CT5212LO) 62  TR4.  I 
have
seen the mirrors on the fenders, flat round Lucas mirror,  and the bullet
mirror.  Looking for a correct one for  concours.




Jim:
Since there was no factory outside mirror on either the 4 or 4A, you are  
pretty much on your own as which type you mount as long the choice is of the  
period and there will be no chance of Concours demerits.  Personally I  
think the side screen type fender mirrors look kind of dorky on the 4 or 4A  
which leaves only the 3 1/2" bullet mounted on the doors.  
 
Word of warning, if you use the bullet type on both doors, be sure to mount 
 the passenger side first!
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana 

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  8 19:16:54 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 18:16:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] rear cockpit enterior panel
Message-ID: <1312852614.85378.YahooMailNeo@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

In comparing my new interior panels (tr-3) I've found a difference in the rear
panel that covers the fuel tank.  The old panel has a steel top part that's
riveted to a wooden panel at an angle; a little less than 90 degrees, both
covered in vinyl. 

The new panel is a solid one piece panel the same shape
but with a very very slight bend between top and bottom part.  It's made of
masonite covered in vinyl.  

My question is how to install.  It seems
impossible to me that the masonite could be bent almost 90 degrees to fit
properly.

Has anyone else experienced this?

thanks!
gary n

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Tue Aug  9 05:31:39 2011
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 12:31:39 +0100
Subject: [TR] Coorect Door Mirror for 62 TR4
In-Reply-To: <19da9.7b94e0f7.3b71dc31@aol.com>
References: <19da9.7b94e0f7.3b71dc31@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DB412ED8AB4F4219903C0E11E0BAE68B@AdrianPC>

Hi Lou,

Please enlighten me, when fitting a pair of bullet mirrors why fit the 
passenger side first? Am I missing something obvious here?

Adrian TR4A CT64306 O
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Loumetelko at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 1:41 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Coorect Door Mirror for 62 TR4


> Anyone know the correct mirror setup for an early (CT5212LO) 62  TR4.  I
> have
> seen the mirrors on the fenders, flat round Lucas mirror,  and the bullet
> mirror.  Looking for a correct one for  concours.
>
>
>
>
> Jim:
> Since there was no factory outside mirror on either the 4 or 4A, you are
> pretty much on your own as which type you mount as long the choice is of 
> the
> period and there will be no chance of Concours demerits.  Personally I
> think the side screen type fender mirrors look kind of dorky on the 4 or 
> 4A
> which leaves only the 3 1/2" bullet mounted on the doors.
>
> Word of warning, if you use the bullet type on both doors, be sure to 
> mount
> the passenger side first!
>
> Lou Metelko
> Auburn, Indiana
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Aug  9 05:59:24 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 07:59:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] rear cockpit enterior panel
Message-ID: <64ba8.550100d2.3b727b1c@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/8/2011 8:43:58 PM Central Daylight Time, 
nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: 
> In comparing my new interior panels (tr-3) I've found a difference in the 
> rear
> panel that covers the fuel tank.  The old panel has a steel top part 
> that's
> riveted to a wooden panel at an angle; a little less than 90 degrees, both
> covered in vinyl. 
> 
> The new panel is a solid one piece panel the same shape
> but with a very very slight bend between top and bottom part.  It's made 
> of
> masonite covered in vinyl.  
> 
> My question is how to install.  It seems
> impossible to me that the masonite could be bent almost 90 degrees to fit
> properly.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this?
> 

Interesting.  My two panels different than either of those.  My original is 
Masonic but formed into an arch.  It has a textured finish.  My replacement 
(Moss) is a flat piece of Masonic with serration's.  The intent is to bent 
this part into an arch.  It looks like it will work but it is not the same 
as my original.  

My TR3 is a 57.  What year is yours?

Dave

From eoot at citlink.net  Tue Aug  9 07:10:40 2011
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 09:10:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party
References: <mailman.5.1312826404.22561.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<734596D3-BB68-44E7-9A3A-D3A9BC2E70CF@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <87503C36C21943F89AD9CD11001006B6@Office>

Hey Marty,

Marsha and I will be there along with 2 other couples from out local club. 
The wife is insisting on driving the TVR this year and she would like to try 
the autocross.  Neither of us has done it before.  Think you could give her 
some tips?

Ed


----- Original Message ----- 
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2011 7:08 PM
Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party


> On 2011-08-08, at 2:00 PM, marty sukey wrote:
>>
>> Evelyn and I will be there with the TR8, our son Jason will be there with
> his
>> GT6.  We were talking about it today. We started attending these in 1992.
>> Missed two summer parties in all those years. We would be lost in august
>> without our pilgrimage to Armaugh:)   Marty
>
>>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Aug  9 09:05:50 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 11:05:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3A Front Apron
In-Reply-To: <DECBE7E6BDAC4A0DA6E2D5D951B3426D@bboffice>
References: <000001cc5499$dc081b30$94185190$@net>
	<68C463E7D02047179A96B135DB06A223@AlexPC>
	<CANzE1bFM01T_0QfA8Y4ZeA-+em+8JsrsYEVRQ9gvpCsR2iGumw@mail.gmail.com>
	<DECBE7E6BDAC4A0DA6E2D5D951B3426D@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNk=WYW-3UHDEFWcxH0drVkSMTW24gFGHkEjbGEJw56jQ@mail.gmail.com>

I like the silicone idea to prevent rattling - I used some window
putty and it hardened and fell off a few years later - I also think
it's porous so maybe it's a good thing it fell off so vs rusting
off....

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug  9 08:52:33 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 09:52:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party
In-Reply-To: <87503C36C21943F89AD9CD11001006B6@Office>
References: <mailman.5.1312826404.22561.triumphs@autox.team.net><734596D3-BB68-44E7-9A3A-D3A9BC2E70CF@execulink.com>
	<87503C36C21943F89AD9CD11001006B6@Office>
Message-ID: <33460438BD47417CBB807F256A5B00DD@ranteer.local>

stay between the cones . . .

walk the course (alone) and talk your way through it.  be very thorough 
(OK.  I talk to myself a lot - I'm a very good listener)

first run - go slow and learn the course

second and third runs go for it

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ed Oot" <eoot at citlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 8:10 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TRF's Summer Party

> Hey Marty,
>
> Marsha and I will be there along with 2 other couples from out local club. 
> The wife is insisting on driving the TVR this year and she would like to 
> try the autocross.  Neither of us has done it before.  Think you could 
> give her some tips?
>
> Ed

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue Aug  9 09:38:30 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 08:38:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Redlining Tires
Message-ID: <350AA8F3-2449-4C8A-9132-0FCA97FCC13A@comcast.net>

	At the 2002 (I think) Triumphest in Laughlin, there was a vendor who would
redline your tires with a machine that spun the tires and applied the paint 
Anyone know  who he was, and how to contact him?  The Michelin Redlines on
Rosey  (TR6) had a date code of 01/98  so she has new Michelin Hydroedges 
209/70 15s.  I miss the redline and would like to have it done, read a article
about how to do it yourself, but I don't have the skills and patience, mostly
patience, to do it myself 

Thanks for the input


"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net

From soknacki at soknacki.com  Tue Aug  9 09:50:08 2011
From: soknacki at soknacki.com (David Soknacki)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 11:50:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
Message-ID: <EF00D03C8AF840EAADBB9D6B8D40D12A@Ecom.local>

Please help with what I hope is a basic electrical question.

On the way to work today in the TR6 it started to pour. When I turned on the
blower, I lost power to the signals, gas guage, wipers and of course the
blower itself did not turn on.

Although I drive around with a box of replacement fuses, all of the fuses
look fine. 

Suggestions are welcome. It would be nice to have wipers and signals for the
way home!

Thanks to all.

From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Aug  9 11:21:43 2011
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2011 13:21:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Redlining Tires
In-Reply-To: <350AA8F3-2449-4C8A-9132-0FCA97FCC13A@comcast.net>
References: <350AA8F3-2449-4C8A-9132-0FCA97FCC13A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4E416CA7.80204@snet.net>

Try Diamondback,
http://www.dbtires.com/tires.html

They don't paint the strip, but actually bond the red stripe to whatever 
tire you choose from their product list.  I'm very happy with mine.  
John Mitchell
On 8/9/2011 11:38 AM, William Pugh wrote:
> 	At the 2002 (I think) Triumphest in Laughlin, there was a vendor who would
> redline your tires with a machine that spun the tires and applied the paint 
> Anyone know  who he was, and how to contact him?  The Michelin Redlines on
> Rosey  (TR6) had a date code of 01/98  so she has new Michelin Hydroedges 
> 209/70 15s.  I miss the redline and would like to have it done, read a article
> about how to do it yourself, but I don't have the skills and patience, mostly
> patience, to do it myself 
>
> Thanks for the input
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007 at comcast.net
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Aug  9 11:28:39 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 17:28:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party
In-Reply-To: <87503C36C21943F89AD9CD11001006B6@Office>
Message-ID: <1165197737.383243.1312910919227.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Oot" <eoot at citlink.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2011 8:10:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] TRF's Summer Party
> Hey Marty,
> 
> Marsha and I will be there along with 2 other couples from our local
> club.
> The wife is insisting on driving the TVR this year and she would like
> to try
> the autocross. Neither of us has done it before. Think you could give
> her
> some tips?

There is nothing better for learning autocross than an onsite instructor.

I am an instructor for the Minnesota Autosports Club.  I won't be at the Summer Party, but you can check with the organizer about instructors.  Get an instructor to walk the course with you.

If it is allowed, take an instructor with you in the car.

From soknacki at soknacki.com  Tue Aug  9 11:36:35 2011
From: soknacki at soknacki.com (David Soknacki)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 13:36:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
Message-ID: <7B96486881F54C0CBC86E645280F075D@Ecom.local>

Thanks so much for the suggestion to again re-check all the fuses. The idea
worked, sort of!

I took out and sanded all of the fuses, then tried the wipers. They worked,
as did the guages and blower. I drove the car and then parked it. But when I
started it up again, I had the original issue. 

At least I now know where to look for the problem. And maybe it will be
drier when I go out to fix it.

Thanks again.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Aug  9 12:42:29 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 14:42:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
Message-ID: <6b330.72823ac0.3b72d995@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/9/2011 11:11:13 AM Central Daylight Time, 
soknacki at soknacki.com writes: 
> On the way to work today in the TR6 it started to pour. When I turned on 
> the
> blower, I lost power to the signals, gas guage, wipers and of course the
> blower itself did not turn on.
> 
> Although I drive around with a box of replacement fuses, all of the fuses
> look fine. 
> 

You're on the right track looking at the fuse.  But if it isn't the fuse it 
just might be the connections to the fuse block.  The other evening I lost 
my dash lights.  As it turns out I also lost my tail lights and front 
running lights.  The fuse was good and the fuse connection was good.  Still no 
lights.  But when I unplugged one red wire and plugged it back in all was 
restored.

Check the wires.

Dave

From carlsereda at aol.com  Tue Aug  9 13:30:07 2011
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2011 12:30:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 mirrors - 1
Message-ID: <BC6FCA04.182D.4D7D.BA2E.9AC7DAC156AF@aol.com>

Jim,
I am sending you 2 photos. One photo shows 4 pairs of mirror designs 
from 1960's. The other photo shows (from my experience) the most 
typical dealer installed mirror model and placement on TR4 door. 
Although I have collected pairs I have not decided if I will put a 
mirror on the passenger door. The mirror on the white TR4 door photo 
is the one I've seen most. Originally these mirrors were $2.75 from 
aftermarket sportscar accessory vendors and dealers probably charged 
10 bucks to install them. At 17 I put 2 bullets above the front wheels 
- thought it made my TR4 look like a cute old man with glasses. Now 
that I feel like an old man (55) - looks dumb to me, plus they were 
almost useless there. Some one else must have thought they looked dumb 
too as I found them kicked off one day and on the ground when I had 
parked near a college in the late 70's. The 'spring-back' mirrors in 
the photos were sold by Amco (and others) and their sales brochure 
photo of a TR4 has 2 of them mounted between front wheel well and 
windsheild - looks pretty good - but right in the way when bending 
over your open engine bay for maintenance. In hindsight (nice pun, eh) 
the bullets look too modern to me on an old TR4.. afterall, 'stamped 
aluminum grill', pretty low tech looking.. but on a TR4A with all the 
upgraded chrome bits and enhanced grill the bullets look pretty good 
to me.
Anyone else interested in the 2 photos let me know.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

Anyone know the correct mirror setup for an early (CT5212LO) 62 TR4. I 
have
seen the mirrors on the fenders, flat round Lucas mirror, and the 
bullet
mirror. Looking for a correct one for concours.

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

From guy at genfiniti.com  Tue Aug  9 14:12:23 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 15:12:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need a center sun visor mount
Message-ID: <1C291176-6B84-47FC-A12B-0DF85C1B2CB8@genfiniti.com>

All,

Does anyone have a correct center sun visor mount for a 1965 TR4A?
I was able to source the outside mounts a while back, but still need that
center mount.
The correct one has the angled bars..

If you have one you are willing to part with, or know someone who might,
please reply off list.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Tue Aug  9 14:38:17 2011
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 16:38:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] corrrect door mirrors for 62 TR4
Message-ID: <54082.42037f0.3b72f4b9@aol.com>

Jim,  the passenger side is very easy to mount in a un-usable  position 
(vision blocked by the A post).  Have a helper locate the  mirror while you are 
seated to the car. Then match the drivers  side.
 

 
Rodney Ford,  Pres.
Positive Earth Drives Club
Brick, NJ

Triumph TR4A  IRS
Triumph TR 7 Spider

From guy at genfiniti.com  Tue Aug  9 15:14:10 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 16:14:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] Seeking Classic Car Insurance Advice
Message-ID: <5A782308-7976-495B-8DE3-33577F23F263@genfiniti.com>

All,

I am doing my homework on having the TR4A insured and have learned something
about "Actual Cash Value" vs. "Stated Value".
I have a quote from USAA based on Actual Cash Value.  They do not do Stated
Value.

I am looking to get a quote or five from firms that will provide a Stated
Value policy AND have little to no driving restrictions.

Who should I look at?  Who should I avoid?

Thanks in advance.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Aug  9 16:13:13 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 18:13:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Seeking Classic Car Insurance Advice
In-Reply-To: <5A782308-7976-495B-8DE3-33577F23F263@genfiniti.com>
References: <5A782308-7976-495B-8DE3-33577F23F263@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <A2496B18DF4E4426810DAF5F689E7268@BobPC>

What you want is "agreed to value" which means that both you and the 
insurance company agree that the car is worth $15K. Maybe that's what they 
mean by "actual cash value". You don't want "Stated Value"............. all 
that means is that you're telling them your car is worth $15K. It doesn't 
mean that they agree with that value or will pay you that much if you get in 
an accident.

Other things to check would be: garage requirements, mileage limitations, 
use limitations (how will they let you drive it? Shows only, out to dinner, 
Sunday ride etc), do they require one daily driver per licensed driver in 
the household (3 licensed drivers means 3 other cars plus the TR. Haggerty 
requires this). One other thing to check is if your primary insurance 
company has any requirements. I have an umbrella policy that covers my house 
and cars and they require a specific minimum liability 
coverage............... and they told me that Haggerty is the only classic 
car insurer that goes as high as what I have.
Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: G.D. Huggins
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 5:14 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; RedRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TR] Seeking Classic Car Insurance Advice

All,

I am doing my homework on having the TR4A insured and have learned something
about "Actual Cash Value" vs. "Stated Value".
I have a quote from USAA based on Actual Cash Value.  They do not do Stated
Value.

I am looking to get a quote or five from firms that will provide a Stated
Value policy AND have little to no driving restrictions.

Who should I look at?  Who should I avoid?

Thanks in advance.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Tue Aug  9 17:01:55 2011
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 19:01:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Correct door mirrors for 62 TR4
In-Reply-To: <mailman.31186.1312911419.3301.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.31186.1312911419.3301.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CE24FF774BE26B-E50-435B6@webmail-m070.sysops.aol.com>

Hi Jim,

This is the type mirror my '62 TR4 had on it originally:

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-Vintage-Lucas-Model-407-Mirrors-pair-/110
720104648?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c76eb8c8>

Search for Lucas door mirror #407 if the link doesn't work. It differs from
the fender/wing mirrors in that it has a longer base with two mounting screws
per mirror. (If I'd known these mirrors were worth so much, based upon that
auction, maybe I'd have kept it!)

My car only had driver side mirror originally. I think mirrors were not
installed at the factory, but added by the dealer prior to sale, probably to
prevent damage during shipping and meet local re. There probably were a
variety used. I am pretty sure that several different types were listed in the
Spares catalog, last time I looked.

Personally I've never thought the chromed "bullet" mirrors looked right on the
car. I've seen a few on TR4s though, and I think they were one of the types
offered originally.

I've seen a "flag type" mirror, also made by Lucas, used on TR4, too.

I've got Raydyot racing mirrors
(http://www.victoriabritish.com/features/mga/mgami7.htm) on the car now. They
just "look right" to me, but aren't as easy to adjust. Yyou have to remove the
mirror to loosen the mount. But they stay where you put them once set up.

Someone suggested mounting the passenger side first... I agree... It's the
hardest to position so that it can be clearly seen from the drivers seat. Have
someone hold the mirror in place while you are in the drivers seat. The
dirvers side mirror is easier, can simply be mounted to match the passenger
side.

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
amfoto1 at aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L

www.triumphowners.com/640




-----Original Message-----


Message: 1
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 15:25:54 -0400
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [TR] Coorect Door Mirror for 62 TR4
Message-ID: <005201cc5600$fe36ba50$faa42ef0$@rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Anyone know the correct mirror setup for an early (CT5212LO) 62 TR4.  I have
seen the mirrors on the fenders, flat round Lucas mirror, and the bullet
mirror.  Looking for a correct one for concours.

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6


------------------------------

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug 10 05:09:54 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 07:09:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Seeking Classic Car Insurance Advice
In-Reply-To: <5A782308-7976-495B-8DE3-33577F23F263@genfiniti.com>
References: <5A782308-7976-495B-8DE3-33577F23F263@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <201108100709.54858.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday, August 09, 2011 05:14:10 pm G.D. Huggins wrote:
> All,
> 
> I am doing my homework on having the TR4A insured and have learned
> something about "Actual Cash Value" vs. "Stated Value".
> I have a quote from USAA based on Actual Cash Value.  They do not do Stated
> Value.
> 
> I am looking to get a quote or five from firms that will provide a Stated
> Value policy AND have little to no driving restrictions.
> 
> Who should I look at?  Who should I avoid?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>
Guy,

I have used American Collectors for over 30 years. All 3 Triumphs.

I have agreed value on all 3 and do all of my policy management on-line. That 
includes adding my recently completed 72 TR6.

There are driving restrictions but none that affect my cars such as driving to 
the Mall, work etc. which are prohibited. I drive only to car hops, shows and 
rides in the "country". I avoid the 4 laners and interstates if possible. But 
that is just me. I am in no hurry when I am in one of my Triumphs. The longer 
the ride lasts the better!

Bob

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Aug 10 05:46:20 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 06:46:20 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Seeking Classic Car Insurance Advice
Message-ID: <270505346.4333565.1312976781095.JavaMail.root@vznit170076>

I use American Collectors as well and have the stated value.  They made a note on my account because I stated I wanted to drive to work 2 or 3 times in the summer, and they allowed it.

Craig H. Nicholls
1972 Triumph TR6


Aug 10, 2011 07:32:26 AM, yellowtr at adelphia.net wrote:

On Tuesday, August 09, 2011 05:14:10 pm G.D. Huggins wrote:
> All,
> 
> I am doing my homework on having the TR4A insured and have learned
> something about "Actual Cash Value" vs. "Stated Value".
> I have a quote from USAA based on Actual Cash Value. They do not do Stated
> Value.
> 
> I am looking to get a quote or five from firms that will provide a Stated
> Value policy AND have little to no driving restrictions.
> 
> Who should I look at? Who should I avoid?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>
Guy,

I have used American Collectors for over 30 years. All 3 Triumphs.

I have agreed value on all 3 and do all of my policy management on-line. That 
includes adding my recently completed 72 TR6.

There are driving restrictions but none that affect my cars such as driving to 
the Mall, work etc. which are prohibited. I drive only to car hops, shows and 
rides in the "country". I avoid the 4 laners and interstates if possible. But 
that is just me. I am in no hurry when I am in one of my Triumphs. The longer 
the ride lasts the better!

Bob


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From mbarre at juno.com  Wed Aug 10 05:54:25 2011
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 11:54:25 GMT
Subject: [TR] Seeking Classic Car Insurance Advice
Message-ID: <20110810.075425.13428.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>

I am a long time USAA customer but I believe they hand off unusual vehicles
now to their "general agency"
which I believe is a thin veil for a "partner" company.  They don't have
special restrictions, but the coverage
isn't cheap and as you say isn't agreed value.

Hagerty and Chubb offer much less expensive alternatives including agreed
value but I think the trade-off is some manner of
restriction on the use of the vehicle.

Good luck and let us know what you find out.

Matt


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Seeking Classic Car Insurance Advice
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 07:09:54 -0400

On Tuesday, August 09, 2011 05:14:10 pm G.D. Huggins wrote:

> I am doing my homework on having the TR4A insured and have learned
> something about "Actual Cash Value" vs. "Stated Value".
> I have a quote from USAA based on Actual Cash Value.  They do not do Stated
> Value.
>
> I am looking to get a quote or five from firms that will provide a Stated
> Value policy AND have little to no driving restrictions.

From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 10 05:58:34 2011
From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 11:58:34 +0000
Subject: [TR] Door switch for 74 to 76 TR6
Message-ID: <mailman.28.1312977531.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>

The top switch in the door jam of my 74 TR6 fell apart last weekend. This is the black switch with two wires for door/key buzzer (which actually still works!) Does anyone have one they can part with as the big three do not stock it.
Thanks
Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, Fla
74 TR6
73 Stag
58 TR3A
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 10 07:59:38 2011
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 06:59:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
In-Reply-To: <7B96486881F54C0CBC86E645280F075D@Ecom.local>
References: <7B96486881F54C0CBC86E645280F075D@Ecom.local>
Message-ID: <1312984778.65950.YahooMailNeo@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

You said you sanded the fuses. Did you also clean the fuse holder? That is probably where most of the corrosion is. Try the little brass bore brush from a .22 rifle cleaning kit for them.


John Young NASS# 528
Indiana
'78 Spitfire
'66 Spitfire
'59 TR3A (getting body work)
'59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway.

From: David Soknacki <soknacki at soknacki.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2011 1:36 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops

Thanks so much for the suggestion to again re-check all the fuses. The idea
worked, sort of!

I took out and sanded all of the fuses, then tried the wipers. They worked,
as did the guages and blower. I drove the car and then parked it. But when I
started it up again, I had the original issue. 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed Aug 10 08:48:56 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 10:48:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
In-Reply-To: <1312984778.65950.YahooMailNeo@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <7B96486881F54C0CBC86E645280F075D@Ecom.local>
	<1312984778.65950.YahooMailNeo@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkePGBXg8BXzJR4EQVmMRMZddHoVs0942D4ai=-6McTu5Jg@mail.gmail.com>

John makes good sense here - I managed to keep my fuse block alive for
a couple years this way - but it was annoying to have corrosion creep
in and shut down power to the lights again...

A few years ago I replaced the fuses and fuse box and coated the
connections with electric grease and have not had a problem since.
I've use the same stuff for most of my bullet and spade connections on
all my cars.

You might get by cleaning both the fuse block and fuses and using the
grease to stop corrosion (the scratches from the sandpaper increase
the chance of air getting in there to cause the problems and the
grease keeps it out)

This is the product I use
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/LubriMatic/11755.html.
No connection or personal involvment with them.

Chris

On Wed, Aug 10, 2011 at 9:59 AM, John Young <jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> You said you sanded the fuses. Did you also clean the fuse holder? That is probably where most of the corrosion is. Try the little brass bore brush from a .22 rifle cleaning kit for them.

From areich at telus.net  Wed Aug 10 09:28:54 2011
From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 08:28:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Period Modifications to TR6
Message-ID: <4E42A3B6.9040509@telus.net>

Greetings
I recently purchased a 1975 TR6 with some engine modifications, 
specifically three stromberg carbs and a finned aluminum valve cover.
I applied for "Collector Status", which gives reduced insurance and 
restricted use to cars over 25 years old. You are allowed mods if they 
were available in the period the car was manufactured.
The 3 carbs are OK, but I was asked to provide documentation that the 
K&N air cleaners and the finned aluminum valve cover were "Period Mods".
So what I am asking is if anyone on the list has old mags or catalogs 
that might show these items as available .. I realize K&N might not be 
available but small air cleaners with paper filters were probably available.
Allan Reich
1975 TR6 CF30255U
  Vancouver, Canada

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Aug 10 10:53:13 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 12:53:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Period Modifications to TR6
In-Reply-To: <4E42A3B6.9040509@telus.net>
References: <4E42A3B6.9040509@telus.net>
Message-ID: <8CE2595208BC047-F08-19328@webmail-m148.sysops.aol.com>

 Allan, there was a multitude of aftermarket air cleaners and valve covers
available 'back in the day'; I don't think K&N filters were, but I can't
imagine being denied coverage for a particular *brand* of air filter,
particularly if it fits without any modification to the carburetor (or,
hopefully, bodywork)! As for triple carbs, there was a version in Australia of
the Triumph 2000 sedan -- called the 2000MD -- some of which had three
carburetors. Whether there was anything cataloged or otherwise available for
the TR5 or TR6, I can't say. Funny that the more "decorative" items are in
question, while the one that adds to performance isn't!?



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Allan Reich <areich at telus.net>


Greetings
I recently purchased a 1975 TR6 with some engine modifications,
specifically three stromberg carbs and a finned aluminum valve cover.
I applied for "Collector Status", which gives reduced insurance and
restricted use to cars over 25 years old. You are allowed mods if they
were available in the period the car was manufactured.
The 3 carbs are OK, but I was asked to provide documentation that the
K&N air cleaners and the finned aluminum valve cover were "Period Mods".
So what I am asking is if anyone on the list has old mags or catalogs
that might show these items as available .. I realize K&N might not be
available but small air cleaners with paper filters were probably available.

From jimt at ieee.org  Wed Aug 10 11:30:34 2011
From: jimt at ieee.org (Jim Thompson)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 12:30:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkePGBXg8BXzJR4EQVmMRMZddHoVs0942D4ai=-6McTu5Jg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <7B96486881F54C0CBC86E645280F075D@Ecom.local>
	<1312984778.65950.YahooMailNeo@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<CANhzkePGBXg8BXzJR4EQVmMRMZddHoVs0942D4ai=-6McTu5Jg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAH5ekTcGBhMLjyBzhmfLKKvRMNK5+Q3Homh0_vJHMN8uAqX-eA@mail.gmail.com>

There is a product called DeOx that our local autosupply carries.  It apears
to clean and add some protection.

Jim Thompson
LiteZupp Industries, LLC
VBTek, LLC
817-337-0562
jimt at ieee.org

80 TR7  73 Stag
Smithy Granite


On Wed, Aug 10, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:

> John makes good sense here - I managed to keep my fuse block alive for
> a couple years this way - but it was annoying to have corrosion creep
> in and shut down power to the lights again...
>
> A few years ago I replaced the fuses and fuse box and coated the
> connections with electric grease and have not had a problem since.
> I've use the same stuff for most of my bullet and spade connections on
> all my cars.
>
> You might get by cleaning both the fuse block and fuses and using the
> grease to stop corrosion (the scratches from the sandpaper increase
> the chance of air getting in there to cause the problems and the
> grease keeps it out)
>
> This is the product I use
> http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/LubriMatic/11755.html.
> No connection or personal involvment with them.
>
> Chris
>
> On Wed, Aug 10, 2011 at 9:59 AM, John Young <jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > You said you sanded the fuses. Did you also clean the fuse holder? That
> is probably where most of the corrosion is. Try the little brass bore brush
> from a .22 rifle cleaning kit for them.
>
>
>  triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jimt at ieee.org

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Wed Aug 10 11:34:49 2011
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 13:34:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
Message-ID: <6177.7aed4316.3b741b39@aol.com>

> On the way to work today in the TR6 it started to pour. When I turned  on 
> the
> blower, I lost power to the signals, gas guage, wipers  and of course the
> blower itself did not turn on.
> 
>  Although I drive around with a box of replacement fuses, all of the  
fuses
> look fine. 
>


You're on the right track looking  at the fuse.  But if it isn't the fuse 
it 
just might be the connections  to the fuse block.  The other evening I lost 
my dash lights.  As  it turns out I also lost my tail lights and front 
running lights.  The  fuse was good and the fuse connection was good.  
Still no 
lights.   But when I unplugged one red wire and plugged it back in all was  
restored.
 Dave1massey at cs.com


FWIW, I had the same problem awhile  back. Lost running lights, dash 
lights, etc.  It ended up being the dash  rheostat.  I touched it and everything 
started working.  Haven't  touched it since.
 
Sam

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Aug 10 11:52:42 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 18:52:42 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Period Modifications to TR6
In-Reply-To: <8CE2595208BC047-F08-19328@webmail-m148.sysops.aol.com>
References: <4E42A3B6.9040509@telus.net>
	<8CE2595208BC047-F08-19328@webmail-m148.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1312998762.15752.YahooMailNeo@web28311.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Allan
 
As Andy Mace said, the Triumph 2000 was sold in Australia
(manufactured there) with a three Stromberg carb set-up.
 
A finned valve
cover was certainly available and sold in the UK as a Standard-Triumph
accessory.
 
Coopers 'all mesh' air filters were also available in the UK for
a variety of carb sizes but mostly seen on Sprites and Big Healeys as factory
fit. Don't ever recall seeing a factory approved option for the TR6 - carb or
injection.
 
Jonmac

From: Andrew S. Mace <zoboherald at aol.com>
To:
areich at telus.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, 10 August 2011,
17:53
Subject: Re: [TR] Period Modifications to TR6

Allan, there was a
multitude of aftermarket air cleaners and valve covers
available 'back in the
day'; I don't think K&N filters were, but I can't
imagine being denied
coverage for a particular *brand* of air filter,
particularly if it fits
without any modification to the carburetor (or,
hopefully, bodywork)! As for
triple carbs, there was a version in Australia of
the Triumph 2000 sedan --
called the 2000MD -- some of which had three
carburetors. Whether there was
anything cataloged or otherwise available for
the TR5 or TR6, I can't say.
Funny that the more "decorative" items are in
question, while the one that
adds to performance isn't!?



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying
Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage
Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph
Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us
-----Original Message-----
From: Allan Reich <areich at telus.net>


Greetings
I
recently purchased a 1975 TR6 with some engine modifications,
specifically
three stromberg carbs and a finned aluminum valve cover.
I applied for
"Collector Status", which gives reduced insurance and
restricted use to cars
over 25 years old. You are allowed mods if they
were available in the period
the car was manufactured.
The 3 carbs are OK, but I was asked to provide
documentation that the
K&N air cleaners and the finned aluminum valve cover
were "Period Mods".
So what I am asking is if anyone on the list has old mags
or catalogs
that might show these items as available .. I realize K&N might
not be
available but small air cleaners with paper filters were probably
available.


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug 10 12:04:08 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 14:04:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
In-Reply-To: <1312984778.65950.YahooMailNeo@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <7B96486881F54C0CBC86E645280F075D@Ecom.local>
	<1312984778.65950.YahooMailNeo@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201108101404.09108.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday, August 10, 2011 09:59:38 am John Young wrote:
> You said you sanded the fuses. Did you also clean the fuse holder? That is
> probably where most of the corrosion is. Try the little brass bore brush
> from a .22 rifle cleaning kit for them.
> 
> 
> John Young NASS# 528
> Indiana
> '78 Spitfire
> '66 Spitfire
> '59 TR3A (getting body work)
> '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway.
John,

Another problem that has been reported on the 6 fuse boxes is the rivet 
connections going bad. Some have soldered them, others have replaced the Lucas 
box with aftermarket versions.

Bob

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Aug 10 14:02:59 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 16:02:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
Message-ID: <13c26.2cfb99a.3b743df2@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/10/2011 10:20:14 AM Central Daylight Time, 
ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: 
> You might get by cleaning both the fuse block and fuses and using the
> grease to stop corrosion (the scratches from the sandpaper increase
> the chance of air getting in there to cause the problems and the
> grease keeps it out)
> 

I use copper based antiseize.  It has the grease to exclude air and it has 
copper particles to enhance electrical contact.  

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Aug 10 14:13:18 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 16:13:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
Message-ID: <14399.41ad03ce.3b74405d@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/10/2011 12:54:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
TRDOCTOR at aol.com writes: 
> FWIW, I had the same problem awhile  back. Lost running lights, dash 
> lights, etc.  It ended up being the dash  rheostat.  I touched it and 
> everything 
> started working.  Haven't  touched it since.
> 

Another common source of problems on the CF series TR6 is the power tap on 
the battery cable.  There are three wires that plug in there, two of which 
feed power to the car.  If one goes bad somethings stop working while other 
things continue to work.  Very strange symptoms until you analyze what is 
powered by which wire.

Dave

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Aug 10 16:11:40 2011
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 18:11:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
In-Reply-To: <201108101404.09108.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <7B96486881F54C0CBC86E645280F075D@Ecom.local>
	<1312984778.65950.YahooMailNeo@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<201108101404.09108.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4E43021C.10506@charter.net>

On 8/10/2011 2:04 PM, Bob wrote:
> Another problem that has been reported on the 6 fuse boxes is the rivet
> connections going bad. Some have soldered them, others have replaced the Lucas
> box with aftermarket versions.

My maybe-not-so-helpful guide to resoldering a fusebox.

http://fishplate.org/vehicles/tr6/tips/fuse_box/

I should really add some text, but there's several thousand words worth 
of pictures.  Happy to answer any questions.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

P.S.  The problem wasn't in the fuse box after all...but it sure is solid!

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Aug 10 17:39:03 2011
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 18:39:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Last Minute Decision
Message-ID: <B1A80CE8E30749549F53B88FE6CEB0CE@SONYATHOME>

I decided today to make a flying trip out to the TRF Summer Party.  Hope to
see lot's of you there.

Ken Gano

From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 10 17:55:58 2011
From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 23:55:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
In-Reply-To: <EF00D03C8AF840EAADBB9D6B8D40D12A@Ecom.local>
References: <EF00D03C8AF840EAADBB9D6B8D40D12A@Ecom.local>
Message-ID: <mailman.29.1313020578.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Ok, I know that a lot of very knowledgeable folks have weighed in on this, but I'm stuck on the part that "it poured" out before this all started. A wet connection can cause all sorts of crazy electrical issues. I had this happen on my prior Stag and I thought the electrical system was haunted. It turned out that the water had caused a short. I found the short up by the radiator in the lighting wires, put some shrink wrap on it and never had another gremlin. Now, I'm not saying that the fuse block might not need attention, but it seems that the obvious has been overlooked. Just my 2 cents worth.
Larry Miceli
74 TR6
73 Stag
57 TR3
71 XKE
87 XJ6 
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: "David Soknacki" <soknacki at soknacki.com>
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 11:50:08 
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops

Please help with what I hope is a basic electrical question.

On the way to work today in the TR6 it started to pour. When I turned on the
blower, I lost power to the signals, gas guage, wipers and of course the
blower itself did not turn on.

Although I drive around with a box of replacement fuses, all of the fuses
look fine. 

Suggestions are welcome. It would be nice to have wipers and signals for the
way home!

Thanks to all.


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From Chip19474 at aol.com  Thu Aug 11 06:06:06 2011
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 08:06:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Period Modifications to TR6
Message-ID: <454ba.7d158c30.3b751fad@aol.com>

Allan,
 
If small air cleaners were available, I'm wondering if the car's original  
emissions control system would be able to function properly since I believe 
that  carb vapors were circulated through the original air cleaner to be 
burnt during  running.  I guess the insurance company is okay with added 
performance from  the triple carbs as long as it was period correct even if 
something like  emissions control might be compromised.
 
But, back to your specific question about K&N's being available in  1975, I 
can't remember.  I think I'd contact the K&N folks and ask  them.....there 
should be some record in their files of whether these were being  marketed 
in 1975.  If you hit a snag, see if you can find cheap  after market air 
cleaners that you can fit for photo proof to the insurance  company then swap 
out later.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/10/2011 11:57:14 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
areich at telus.net writes:

small  air cleaners with paper filters were probably  available.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Aug 11 06:51:48 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 08:51:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Period Modifications to TR6
Message-ID: <2326b.2248b79f.3b752a63@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/11/2011 7:08:45 AM Central Daylight Time, 
Chip19474 at aol.com writes: 
> If small air cleaners were available, I'm wondering if the car's original 
>  
> emissions control system would be able to function properly since I 
> believe 
> that  carb vapors were circulated through the original air cleaner to be 
> burnt during  running.  I guess the insurance company is okay with added 
> performance from  the triple carbs as long as it was period correct even 
> if 
> something like  emissions control might be compromised.
> 

Not on the TR6.  Some TR4's vented the crankcase to the air cleaners but 
the TR6 Evap Control System is totally independent of the air cleaners.  The 
charcoal canister feeds directly into the venturis in the carbs.

Why they care about air cleaners is beyond me.  Maybe their actuarial 
tables show that cars with no mods or certain mods are less risk than cars with 
other certain mods.  Or maybe they are just throwing darts at the wall.  
Insurance companies work in mysterious ways.  But they always seem to be 
profitable.

Dave

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Aug 11 07:04:58 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 09:04:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Period Modifications to TR6
In-Reply-To: <2326b.2248b79f.3b752a63@cs.com>
References: <2326b.2248b79f.3b752a63@cs.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkePxp4N2+ved2VSU9Gtgd8STF-nW9yYH0g+_FmtBZ9F2QQ@mail.gmail.com>

>From their website - K&N  has been around for 40 years -- so you
probably have a good chance....

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Thu Aug 11 07:16:15 2011
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 09:16:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 electrical stuff stops
Message-ID: <4772e.4b64990d.3b75301f@aol.com>

I'm a little late with thoughts on this one but here's my input......I  
think you may have two issues....1) the fuse block and 2) the blower  motor.
 
Fuse Block - while they are not cheap to buy, they aren't terribly  
expensive either and the amount of grief and turmoil that an old fuse block can  
cause is, in my experience,  just not worth saving a few bucks and getting  
out the sandpaper when things go screwy.
 
Blower Motor - since your trouble initially began when you turned the  
blower motor on during a rain storm, the culprit may have been (or still is) a  
blower motor that is pulling too much current when it operates (regardless 
of  whether it's raining or not). 
 
One quick way to prove this would be to remove the fuse from the white  
wire/green wire fuse slot and connect an ammeter in place of the  fuse.  Start 
the car (or turn the ignition to "on") and operate the blower  motor.  Dan 
Masters states on page 26 of his Electrical Maintenance  Handbook that the 
"green fuse" (the fuse between the white wire and green wires)  should see a 
total of 16.7 amps when every load on that circuit is on or  working.  In 
particular, he says that the blower motor should draw 4 amps  when working.  
Given that the temp & fuel gauge will draw about .4 amp  when you turn the 
ignition on, the blower should add another 4 amps when you  turn it on.  If the 
blower motor is drawing significantly more than 4 amps,  you've got at 
least one culprit.  The fuse block may still be  partly at fault; a heavy 
current draw from the blower may just be  the trigger.
 
The only way to really get to the blower motor is to remove the  heater box 
which is really a pain!  I think I'd try to find a simple  cause for the 
high current draw like bad ground, crossed up wires...heck,  maybe the problem 
is in the blower switch??
 
Good luck,
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U  
 
 
In a message dated 8/9/2011 12:11:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
soknacki at soknacki.com writes:

When I  turned on the
blower, I lost power 

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Thu Aug 11 07:24:07 2011
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 09:24:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Period Modifications to TR6
Message-ID: <47c14.7d0bfdcb.3b7531f7@aol.com>

good points, Dave.....I know that back in 2003 when I got my TR6 on the  
road, I basically only needed 4 photos for classic insurance.....good thing 
they  didn't look under the bonnet!  Now, many years before that when I got my 
 Spitfire on the road, I would have gladly offered them a peak at the 
powerful  1296cc motor:)
 
chip
 
 
In a message dated 8/11/2011 8:55:41 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:

Maybe  their actuarial 
tables show that cars with no mods or certain mods are  less risk than cars 
with 
other certain mods.  Or maybe they are just  throwing darts at the wall.  
Insurance companies work in mysterious  ways.  But they always seem to be  
profitable.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Aug 11 09:47:25 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 11:47:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Period Modifications to TR6
Message-ID: <11b30.2e7ad2aa.3b75538d@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/11/2011 8:24:08 AM Central Daylight Time, 
Chip19474 at aol.com writes: 
> good points, Dave.....I know that back in 2003 when I got my TR6 on the 
> road, I basically only needed 4 photos for classic insurance.....good thing 
> they didn't look under the bonnet!  Now, many years before that when I got 
> my Spitfire on the road, I would have gladly offered them a peak at the 
> powerful 1296cc motor:)
>  
> 
And the WOWs in the office would have been deafening.  ;-)

Dave

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Aug 11 15:42:34 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 17:42:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] I love my TR3
Message-ID: <0649794F431E4A348B1C3997A2033103@DCH6RFC1>

I may have shared with the list that my wife and I love to take the TR out
for a "stooge" - an RAF WW2 expression meaning going out with no particular
destination in mind and with no schedule for getting there or getting back.
"Reconnaissance of the scenery" fits the description well.

 

Well, today we were about 20 miles away from home and were approaching a
long left-hand corner when a black Mustang approached from the other
direction, lost control and drifted broadside into our lane.  Tires were
squealing, smoke billowing, the wife screaming.  The guy must have been
doing about 80 on a two-lane road and I truly felt this was it.  I saw a gap
on the right between two fence posts, turned the wheel sharp right and
headed for the grass.  The TR was great, clung to the road and steered us to
safer pastures. We were fine. 

 

I have always loved my car, but now I have an ever deeper respect for its
abilities.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 11 16:08:45 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 15:08:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] I love my TR3
In-Reply-To: <0649794F431E4A348B1C3997A2033103@DCH6RFC1>
References: <0649794F431E4A348B1C3997A2033103@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <1313100525.57608.YahooMailNeo@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

good to hear your OK Andrew.
those poorly handling American boats should stick
to sailing and leave real spirited driving to cars designed specifically for
it. ;-0
 
Caprice and I also like to stooge around our little town of Temecula
down here in southern California's wine country. so many sporty routs to take.
we have probably only hit 20% of them in 18 months.
 
Frank

From: Andrew
Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent:
Thursday, August 11, 2011 2:42 PM
Subject: [TR] I love my TR3

I may have
shared with the list that my wife and I love to take the TR out
for a "stooge"
- an RAF WW2 expression meaning going out with no particular
destination in
mind and with no schedule for getting there or getting back.
"Reconnaissance
of the scenery" fits the description well.



Well, today we were about 20
miles away from home and were approaching a
long left-hand corner when a black
Mustang approached from the other
direction, lost control and drifted
broadside into our lane.  Tires were
squealing, smoke billowing, the wife
screaming.  The guy must have been
doing about 80 on a two-lane road and I
truly felt this was it.  I saw a gap
on the right between two fence posts,
turned the wheel sharp right and
headed for the grass.  The TR was great,
clung to the road and steered us to
safer pastures. We were fine. 



I have
always loved my car, but now I have an ever deeper respect for its
abilities.
triumphs at autox.team.net

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From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 11 16:18:16 2011
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 17:18:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] I love my TR3
In-Reply-To: <0649794F431E4A348B1C3997A2033103@DCH6RFC1>
References: <0649794F431E4A348B1C3997A2033103@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W48D2F7883932F2F77CBE13E1220@phx.gbl>

So glad it had a good out come! Was there much damage to the car?

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

 > From: auprichard at uprichard.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 17:42:34 -0400
> Subject: [TR] I love my TR3
>
> I may have shared with the list that my wife and I love to take the TR out
> for a "stooge" - an RAF WW2 expression meaning going out with no particular
> destination in mind and with no schedule for getting there or getting back.
> "Reconnaissance of the scenery" fits the description well.
>
>
>
> Well, today we were about 20 miles away from home and were approaching a
> long left-hand corner when a black Mustang approached from the other
> direction, lost control and drifted broadside into our lane.  Tires were
> squealing, smoke billowing, the wife screaming.  The guy must have been
> doing about 80 on a two-lane road and I truly felt this was it.  I saw a
gap
> on the right between two fence posts, turned the wheel sharp right and
> headed for the grass.  The TR was great, clung to the road and steered us
to
> safer pastures. We were fine.
>
>
>
> I have always loved my car, but now I have an ever deeper respect for its
> abilities.
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Aug 11 17:44:08 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 19:44:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] I love my TR3
In-Reply-To: <0649794F431E4A348B1C3997A2033103@DCH6RFC1>
References: <0649794F431E4A348B1C3997A2033103@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <8CE2697B2A329A4-CCC-26743@webmail-m050.sysops.aol.com>

 Congratulations both on your reaction time and skills, as well as the
Triumph's ability to work with you! Glad everyone's ok (I assume the Mustang
occupant[s] were ok as well)...and I'm sure everything will buff out or wash
off. :D I've had a few such encounters over the years in various Truimphs, and
not one of them has ever let me down (well, not since I rear-ended a Rambler
wagon with my first Herald in 1970, but that really wasn't the Herald's fault;
it was all mine)!



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>


I have always loved my car, but now I have an ever deeper respect for its
abilities.

From 61TR4ever at comcast.net  Fri Aug 12 02:25:57 2011
From: 61TR4ever at comcast.net (Gary Grant)
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 04:25:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Swap Meet
Message-ID: <LOBBKEDBINBGPLMEJOFNEEGJHHAA.61TR4ever@comcast.net>

	I have been working on re-building my storage shed. The "boss" says she
needs a garden shed and it's too full of un-needed parts anyway. I've got
everything from a taillight surround for an Austin A-60 to a NOS front
bumper for a Jag Mk10 to a complete 4.2 E-Type head. I really need to dump
some of this stuff. Lots of MGB, MK1 Jag, E-Type Jag, and TR3-6 parts to go.

	Does anyone know of a swap meet in SE Michigan? I am about 70 miles NE of
Detroit. In the past I found many bits and pieces at the Annual Battle of
the Brits, but last year I was quite disappointed in the lack of parts for
sale. There were vendors there, but only one individual with parts and these
were mostly MG parts. BTW, the Battle of the Brits show itself was great!

Gary
currently restoring TR4  CT 1547 L

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Aug 12 06:58:24 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 08:58:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] I love my TR3
In-Reply-To: <0649794F431E4A348B1C3997A2033103@DCH6RFC1>
References: <0649794F431E4A348B1C3997A2033103@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <201108120858.24549.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday, August 11, 2011 05:42:34 pm Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> I may have shared with the list that my wife and I love to take the TR out
> for a "stooge" - an RAF WW2 expression meaning going out with no particular
> destination in mind and with no schedule for getting there or getting back.
> "Reconnaissance of the scenery" fits the description well.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, today we were about 20 miles away from home and were approaching a
> long left-hand corner when a black Mustang approached from the other
> direction, lost control and drifted broadside into our lane.  Tires were
> squealing, smoke billowing, the wife screaming.  The guy must have been
> doing about 80 on a two-lane road and I truly felt this was it.  I saw a
> gap on the right between two fence posts, turned the wheel sharp right and
> headed for the grass.  The TR was great, clung to the road and steered us
> to safer pastures. We were fine.
> 
> 
> 
> I have always loved my car, but now I have an ever deeper respect for its
> abilities.
> 
> 
Andrew,

Good to hear you and the 3 still have their reflexes. And great to hear you, 
the wife and the 3 survived to stooge another day.

Bob

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Aug 12 08:16:27 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 14:16:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] I love my TR3
In-Reply-To: <201108120858.24549.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <1554697443.58616.1313158587167.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

And now Andrew is going to find this guy, beat him senseless and burn the
Mustang to the ground. B Sue says she will swear that Andrew was in Minnesota
the whole time.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 7:58:24 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] I love my TR3
> On Thursday, August 11, 2011 05:42:34 pm Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> > I may have shared with the list that my wife and I love to take the
> > TR out
> > for a "stooge" - an RAF WW2 expression meaning going out with no
> > particular
> > destination in mind and with no schedule for getting there or
> > getting back.
> > "Reconnaissance of the scenery" fits the description well.
> >
> >
> >
> > Well, today we were about 20 miles away from home and were
> > approaching a
> > long left-hand corner when a black Mustang approached from the other
> > direction, lost control and drifted broadside into our lane. Tires
> > were
> > squealing, smoke billowing, the wife screaming. The guy must have
> > been
> > doing about 80 on a two-lane road and I truly felt this was it. I
> > saw a
> > gap on the right between two fence posts, turned the wheel sharp
> > right and
> > headed for the grass. The TR was great, clung to the road and
> > steered us
> > to safer pastures. We were fine.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have always loved my car, but now I have an ever deeper respect
> > for its
> > abilities.
> >
> >
> Andrew,
>
> Good to hear you and the 3 still have their reflexes. And great to
> hear you,
> the wife and the 3 survived to stooge another day.
>
> Bob
> >
> triumphs at autox.team.net

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri Aug 12 16:14:30 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 17:14:30 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] An electrical question to the list and an offer
Message-ID: <293978433.4523352.1313187270510.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>

1972 Triumph TR6 (Wiring lines up with the 71 electrical chart)
 
Driving to work this morning, a nice gentleman pulled up beside me in his Jeep and told me he owned a Sunbeam.  He also advised me that my drivers side brake light was out.  Got home tonight to test, this car is very original and has not had many electrical issues.  The brake light on the drivers side is working, except when the driving lights are on or all lights are on.  Any suggestions on how to proceed with this?  The bulb works fine, so I was hoping you electrical folks could point me in the right direction.  I have a new 1157 bulb to try, but it seems to not be the issue.

On the offer, my winter project this year was to redo the interior with a panel, seat and foam set from TRF.  I have the removed seat covers and the panel set original from 1972 in New Tan.  If anyone on the list needs panels or just the covering, feel free to email me at:  TheNicholls at Verizon.Net and I would be happy to send pictures.  You could name what you want, what you want to pay, and I will ship the cheapest way and let you know the total.

Any help is appreciated.

Craig H. Nicholls
1972 Triumph TR6 CC76891L

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Aug 12 17:14:46 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 19:14:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] An electrical question to the list and an offer
In-Reply-To: <293978433.4523352.1313187270510.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>
References: <293978433.4523352.1313187270510.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>
Message-ID: <8CE275CC2AF542C-1B6C-9B5E@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com>

 Sounds like a classic ground issue in the LH taillamp unit. Try cleaning up
and and all grounds and power connections on that lamp, and the problem should
go away. At worst, you might need to add a ground wire on that lamp.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: thenicholls <thenicholls at verizon.net>


1972 Triumph TR6 (Wiring lines up with the 71 electrical chart)

Driving to work this morning, a nice gentleman pulled up beside me in his Jeep
and told me he owned a Sunbeam.  He also advised me that my drivers side brake
light was out.  Got home tonight to test, this car is very original and has
not
had many electrical issues.  The brake light on the drivers side is working,
except when the driving lights are on or all lights are on.  Any suggestions
on
how to proceed with this?

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Aug 12 17:35:57 2011
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 19:35:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] An electrical question to the list and an offer
In-Reply-To: <293978433.4523352.1313187270510.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>
Message-ID: <4E45809D.20227.11DD3B31@localhost>

On 12 Aug 2011 at 17:14, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:

> The brake light on the drivers side is working, except when
> the driving lights are on or all lights are on.

Somethign like this usually indicates a bad ground at the chassis.  
When some other light on that same ground wire is not powered current 
can flow through both bulbs to ground by some other path.  When those 
other lights are on both sides of the lights are powered and hence do 
not work.
-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 12 21:57:06 2011
From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 03:57:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop fitting
Message-ID: <mailman.30.1313207843.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Is there a rear rubber seal on a factory TR6 hardtop?
Larry Miceli
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From tr6parts at charter.net  Fri Aug 12 22:04:54 2011
From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 00:04:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop fitting
Message-ID: <2667d7d4.8ae98.131c1505c6b.Webtop.49@charter.net>

You betcha.  TRF #

626156 T6 SEAL,REAR,HARD TOP TO DECK  CUR C  0 $22.95 Aug 25 $11.93

Al


On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 11:57 PM, lgmtr6 wrote:

> Is there a rear rubber seal on a factory TR6 hardtop?
> Larry Miceli
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Aug 13 06:09:07 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 08:09:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] An electrical question to the list and an offer
In-Reply-To: <293978433.4523352.1313187270510.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>
References: <293978433.4523352.1313187270510.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>
Message-ID: <201108130809.08290.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday, August 12, 2011 06:14:30 pm thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:
> 1972 Triumph TR6 (Wiring lines up with the 71 electrical chart)
> 
> Driving to work this morning, a nice gentleman pulled up beside me in his
> Jeep and told me he owned a Sunbeam.  He also advised me that my drivers
> side brake light was out.  Got home tonight to test, this car is very
> original and has not had many electrical issues.  The brake light on the
> drivers side is working, except when the driving lights are on or all
> lights are on.  Any suggestions on how to proceed with this?  The bulb
> works fine, so I was hoping you electrical folks could point me in the
> right direction.  I have a new 1157 bulb to try, but it seems to not be
> the issue.
> 
> On the offer, my winter project this year was to redo the interior with a
> panel, seat and foam set from TRF.  I have the removed seat covers and the
> panel set original from 1972 in New Tan.  If anyone on the list needs
> panels or just the covering, feel free to email me at: 
> TheNicholls at Verizon.Net and I would be happy to send pictures.  You could
> name what you want, what you want to pay, and I will ship the cheapest way
> and let you know the total.
> 
> Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Craig H. Nicholls
> 1972 Triumph TR6 CC76891L
> 
>
Craig,

On the light issue the previous replies are correct. Check the ground in the 
socket. The original Lucas sockets depend on a contact ground and sometimes 
the problem is the ground in the socket. I had to solder mike in order to get 
them to work.

Since your lights work, the ground to the base is not the issue. You may just 
have to remove all sockets and replace them to insure they all are grounded.

There was a Ebay vendor that sold new improved sockets with a separate ground 
for each socket but he informs me he is out of stock.

Bob

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 13 08:22:32 2011
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 07:22:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop fitting
Message-ID: <1313245352.15420.yint-ygo-j2me@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

You bet!  I'll send you a picture.

On Fri Aug 12th, 2011 10:57 PM CDT lgmtr6 wrote:

>Is there a rear rubber seal on a factory TR6 hardtop?
>Larry Miceli
>Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>
>triumphs at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sat Aug 13 11:33:39 2011
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 13:33:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wood steering wheels
Message-ID: <4E46B573.3030408@frontiernet.net>

George Richardson
OK, I've got a TR3 with an adjustable steering column (totally useless, 
but cute) and want  to put on a wooden wheel, while keeping the turn 
signal/horn arrangement.

Has anyone done this?

I have a scrap wheel I can use to make a hub, but I'd rather not spend 
the time if I don't have to.

From jwalker at mainet.com  Sat Aug 13 14:39:04 2011
From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 16:39:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement
Message-ID: <4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>

List,

I am getting ready to replace the cylinder head of my TR3b and plan on using
Randall's "Fire Ring of .020" copper wire to ensure I have a good seal against
the liners. Which way should the "Fire Ring" face - toward the head or toward
the block?

TIA

John Walker
TR-3B TS 68368 TF

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat Aug 13 15:04:39 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 15:04:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement
In-Reply-To: <4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>
References: <4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>
Message-ID: <E76BE330-105A-4F47-8CFD-99719DF33333@comcast.net>

John,

Not sure I can answered the "which way does it face" question  
correctly or clearly but I can tell you how I had it done on my TR6  
head.

Grooves were machined into the head and the wire placed in the  
grooves.  The wire stood a bit proud of the head surface.  The wire  
ends up pressing into the head gasket that sits on top of the block.   
Now I don't have a wet liner engine so take that advice into  
consideration, as I don't know if the same technique applies.  But  
unless you have the block out of the car it seems like a much harder  
if not impossible job to put the grooves into the block, with it still  
in the car, rather than the head.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Aug 13, 2011, at 2:39 PM, John Walker wrote:

> List,
>
> I am getting ready to replace the cylinder head of my TR3b and plan  
> on using
> Randall's "Fire Ring of .020" copper wire to ensure I have a good  
> seal against
> the liners. Which way should the "Fire Ring" face - toward the head  
> or toward
> the block?
>
> TIA
>
> John Walker
> TR-3B TS 68368 TF
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Aug 13 15:20:31 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 17:20:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 finished
Message-ID: <201108131720.32273.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

I took the first ride on the 72 TR6 yesterday morning to get NYS inspection. 
about 15 miles out and 15 back first thing in the AM. Wonderful time to drive, 
just me and the cows!

Car ran nice and I have to say the Bell sport exhaust gives the 6 a very 
interesting exhaust note. Much different than the 3 or 4.

Took the car to its first cruzin last night again about 15 miles out and 15 
back. Wife is impressed! 

Anyway this car was almost 3 years in its restoration. I planned to get it 
completed by this time last year but other things got in the way.

Car is French Blue with Superlites, Moto Lita steering wheel, burl elm dash 
and a spoiler. Not correct for a 72 but I like the color and figured the 
spoiler couldn't hurt.

This is my last restoration. Time to enjoy the 3, 4 and 6 now that I am 
retired from work and Triumph restorations.

I would normally post this on the 6pack email list but I was bounced off for 
some reason about 6 months ago and no amount of emails to MJB will get me 
back. Has that list been discontinued?

Bob

58 TR3A Pale Yellow
63 TR4 Spa White
72 TR6 French Blue

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sat Aug 13 17:52:21 2011
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 19:52:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wood steering wheels
In-Reply-To: <B1CB8B92C1A14C5CA5B41A011D844503@CHUCK>
References: <4E46B573.3030408@frontiernet.net>
	<B1CB8B92C1A14C5CA5B41A011D844503@CHUCK>
Message-ID: <4E470E35.2030302@frontiernet.net>

That's not really what I was looking for. I can take the hub from my 
scrap wheel and machine it so that I can mount one of the usual 9 bolt 
mount wooden wheels, and keep the turn signal arrangement without having 
to deal with the age of the spokes. Or I could make one from scratch. I 
have a lathe and a benchtop CNC milling machine.

Then I would just have to pick the wheel I like.

Macys charges $525 for this, I can buy an off the shelf wheel for under 
$150. Then it's just the cost of modifying or making a hub.

George Richardson


On 8/13/2011 2:01 PM, Chuck White wrote:
> George,
>
> Check out this guy.  He's a friend of mine and does it all the time.  I've
> got one of his wheels on my TR4A and it looks great.  He takes your original
> wheel, chips off the Bakelite rim and replaces with solid wood.  It's all
> hand made and finished.  His name is Paul Rich.
>
> www.richcraftedwheels.com
>
> Chuck
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: On Behalf Of George Richardson
> Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2011 1:34 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Wood steering wheels
>
>
> OK, I've got a TR3 with an adjustable steering column (totally useless, but
> cute) and want  to put on a wooden wheel, while keeping the turn signal/horn
> arrangement.
>
> Has anyone done this?
>
> I have a scrap wheel I can use to make a hub, but I'd rather not spend the
> time if I don't have to.
>
> George Richardson

From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 13 21:42:04 2011
From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 03:42:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 finished
In-Reply-To: <201108131720.32273.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201108131720.32273.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.32.1313293341.3298.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Bob,
Great job on finishing the TR6. I also have a French blue 6 and it's my favorite color on the car. I've had a yellow, carmine, brown, pimento, sapphire and white TR6 (no, not all on the same car) so I've had a few to decide from. I'm currently in the starting phase of my last restoration, a 58 TR3. I'm considering pale yellow as a color choice. Do you have some pictures of the car that I  can see ? It's either that or apple green. 
Thanks
Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, Fla
74 TR6 French Blue
73 Stag sapphire blue
58 TR3 in primer
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 17:20:31 
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 finished

I took the first ride on the 72 TR6 yesterday morning to get NYS inspection. 
about 15 miles out and 15 back first thing in the AM. Wonderful time to drive, 
just me and the cows!

Car ran nice and I have to say the Bell sport exhaust gives the 6 a very 
interesting exhaust note. Much different than the 3 or 4.

Took the car to its first cruzin last night again about 15 miles out and 15 
back. Wife is impressed! 

Anyway this car was almost 3 years in its restoration. I planned to get it 
completed by this time last year but other things got in the way.

Car is French Blue with Superlites, Moto Lita steering wheel, burl elm dash 
and a spoiler. Not correct for a 72 but I like the color and figured the 
spoiler couldn't hurt.

This is my last restoration. Time to enjoy the 3, 4 and 6 now that I am 
retired from work and Triumph restorations.

I would normally post this on the 6pack email list but I was bounced off for 
some reason about 6 months ago and no amount of emails to MJB will get me 
back. Has that list been discontinued?

Bob

58 TR3A Pale Yellow
63 TR4 Spa White
72 TR6 French Blue


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Aug 14 06:04:43 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 12:04:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Wood steering wheels
In-Reply-To: <4E470E35.2030302@frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <1768960241.171091.1313323483702.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

> OK, I've got a TR3 with an adjustable steering column (totally useless, but
> cute) and want  to put on a wooden wheel, while keeping the turn signal/horn
> arrangement.
>
> Has anyone done this?

I have a Moto-Lita wood steering wheel on my '59 TR3A.  Love it.  It uses the stock control head with turn/horn assemlies.  I believe it took the following from The Roadster Factory:

853-736  $188.45  ADAPTER HUB, for use with original control head  TR2-3B Adjustable Column  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Aug 14 06:06:42 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 12:06:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Wood steering wheels
In-Reply-To: <1768960241.171091.1313323483702.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2129142897.171138.1313323601999.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I have a Moto-Lita wood steering wheel on my '59 TR3A.  Love it.  It uses the stock control head with turn/horn assemlies.  I believe it took the following from >The Roadster Factory:

>853-736  $188.45  ADAPTER HUB, for use with original control head  TR2-3B Adjustable Column  

Whoops.  Make that Moss, not the Roadster Factory.

Terry

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sun Aug 14 08:13:21 2011
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 10:13:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wood steering wheels
In-Reply-To: <2129142897.171138.1313323601999.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2129142897.171138.1313323601999.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4E47D801.6090408@frontiernet.net>

Now that's what I'm looking for. Thanks Terry.

George Richardson


On 8/14/2011 8:06 AM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:
>> I have a Moto-Lita wood steering wheel on my '59 TR3A.  Love it.  It uses the stock control head with turn/horn assemlies.  I believe it took the following from>The Roadster Factory:
>> 853-736  $188.45  ADAPTER HUB, for use with original control head  TR2-3B Adjustable Column
> Whoops.  Make that Moss, not the Roadster Factory.
>
> Terry
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gprtech at frontiernet.net

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Sun Aug 14 12:34:20 2011
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 14:34:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] 6Pack list?
Message-ID: <000e01cc5ab0$c834cff0$589e6fd0$@net>

Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote"

>I would normally post this on the 6pack email list but I was bounced off
for some reason about 6 months ago >and no amount of emails to MJB will get
me back. Has that list been discontinued?

 

  I've wondered the same thing.  I've seen nothing from the 6Pack list in
months.  What happened?

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sun Aug 14 17:01:10 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 18:01:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Initial SU HS6 Idle Settings
Message-ID: <E41E1DB7-6FB1-46C5-80EB-59B8A25E297C@genfiniti.com>

All,

Well, the big moment is fast approaching and I am about to start the car for
the first time since the restoration project began.
I've done all the usual new engine start-up items (like building up oil
pressure - which is 30 psi on the starter with plugs out), but I have a
question about the carbs.

I have dual SU HS6 carbs which I had rebuilt by Paltech, and they came back
stunningly nice.
He set the mixture about half-way for starters, but left the idle and fast
idle screws completely backed-off, for me to setup.

Does anyone have a recommendation on where a good starting point is for these
idle screws?
Without any suggestions, I'll probably spent more trial and error time than I
care for.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 14 17:04:58 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 19:04:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. (and wedge parts)
Message-ID: <BLU160-W92A8A03C95899BF2E4610BA270@phx.gbl>

We just returned from the TRF Summer Party. If you stayed home you missed a
good one.  Looking forward to 2012.  Got caught up in a torrential downpour on
the way home. While unloading Evelyn's TR8 I noticed that the passenger seat
was soaked.  I had noticed that the seat gets dripped on when I normally wash
the car but not enough that I paid attention. I cannot remember being stuck in
the rain before so I never notices how bad it leaked. While investigating why
the water was coming in I think I discovered a piece missing from the top
frame. On the drivers side there are two plastic trim pieces that go over the
framework above the window when the top is up, one front and one rear.  On the
passenger side it appears that the plastic piece in front is missing. This
allows the top to not seal against the window.  This description make any
sense?  Anybody know of a source for this missing plastic trim piece? Thanks,
Marty

From cwnfot at gmail.com  Sun Aug 14 18:04:56 2011
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 20:04:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bob Tulius at Lime Rock over Labor Day weekend.
Message-ID: <000101cc5ade$f80d4300$e827c900$@com>

Lime Rock press release (I'll be there crewing for #928 MGTD)
More information at www.limerock.com :

The best vintage racing festival and Concours on the East Coast is here at
Lime Rock Park Labor Day weekend, September 2  5, and we wanted to tell you
about some of the highlights.
 
Its called Historic Festival 29 Presented by Jaguar  the companion event
is the Sunday in the Park Concours & Gathering of the Clubs  and for the
Saturday and Monday races, Chairman Murray Smith was able to gather the
largest field in the history of the event: 321 cars!
 
As an example of the increasing prestige of Lime Rock Parks Historic
Festival, there are cars coming from all over the world just to race here:
Australia, Denmark, Finland, New Zealand, England, Scotland, Ireland,
Antigua  even New Jersey!
 
There are 12 race groups, from pre-war to the 50s- and 60s-eras, plus a
tremendous group of F2, Formula Ford and Formula Junior open-wheelers from
the 60s and 70s. Fantastic...
 
There are two special race groups, too: a Jaguar-only field and an MG-only
group.
 
The Sunday in the Park Concours & Gathering of the Clubs will present close
to 600 cars parked on the race track for show, including special Shelby and
MG collections! The 200+ Concours entrants will pack the front straight,
while the Car Show and Gathering of the Clubs will cover the rest of the
track.
 
We also want to tell you that there are three very special racing people
coming to Historic Festival 29.
 
The Honored Guest is Bob Tullius, the former driver and team owner (Group
44) who made Jaguar such a successful racing organization in the 70s, 80s
and 90s. Hes a friendly, approachable star, so keep your ears open for the
PA announcements advising when hell be free to talk to the fans.
 
The Honored Collector is Dr. Fred Simeone, whose Simeone Foundation Auto
Museum in Philadelphia is considered one of the finest with respect to
significant race cars. Hes bringing four outstanding vehicles: a D Type
Jaguar, third at Sebring, to enhance Jaguar's presence at our event; a K3
MG, the best-placed of all MGs at Le Mans; the DBR1 Aston Martin World
Champion Sports Racer, one of the best looking racing cars ever built; and
an Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 with a fabulous body by the house of Castagna,
absolutely unrestored (like the K3), and also like the MG, in a true state
of grace.

Clark

From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 14 18:06:54 2011
From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 17:06:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] '71 TR6 Clutch master cylinder needed
In-Reply-To: <20110814034234.C04331878D9@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1313366814.93076.YahooMailClassic@web120527.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Anyone have one new or used they would like to get rid of before I go to Moss?  Many thanks!
Bryan

From team.net at Daveola.com  Sun Aug 14 20:24:54 2011
From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 19:24:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)
In-Reply-To: <4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>
References: <mailman.3.1313344802.7852.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>

> ..plan on using Randall's "Fire Ring of .020" copper wire to ensure
> I have a good seal against the liners.

This sounds like a great way to help keep the seal.

I seem to blow my head gasket about once a year and I'm tired of
replacing it.  Does anyone have photos of how this ring of wire
is done?  Can the groove be machined in the head instead of the
block so I don't have to pull the engine?  And will this help
avoid blowing gaskets, in particular between cylinders?

Dave
http://Triumph.Daveola.com/

From emanteno at comcast.net  Mon Aug 15 06:16:54 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 07:16:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Weird Brake issue
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>

My car, a 74 TR6, is experiencing a very long brake pedal after I have been
on the road for a while. The pedal goes almost to the floor, just like the
dreaded brake pad knockback. When I drive around town, this doesn't occur,
only on a road trip (I am on my way to VTR). This doesn't happen after a
hard corner, just some highway cruising. My current setup is

new brake rotors
freshly rebuilt Toyota calipers with new pads
Uncle Jack front stub axle, wheel bearing kit, front hubs
new ss brake lines
new aluminum drums
new 7/8" Morgan rear wheel cylinders
new rear shoes
new master cylinder
rebuilt servo
fresh DOT5 fluid, bled twice, no air visible

Using the grab the wheels and shake test, the wheel bearings are tight. I am
not losing any brake fluid. I was, and discovered that the o-rings in the
PDWA were bad, and was losing fluid and I imagine brake system pressure from
under the switch. I just discovered the source of that leak just before
leaving for VTR, and didn't have time to replace the o-rings so I removed
the switch and put a plug in its place. Other than this issue, the car stops
great.

Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions gratefully accepted.

Thanks,

Irv Korey
74 TR6CF22767U
Highland Park, IL (now in Council Bluffs, IA)

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Aug 15 06:58:48 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 08:58:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Weird Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CE29623523339C-150C-195F6@webmail-m162.sysops.aol.com>

Irv,

long shot, but.....

Uncle Jack discovered a cap missing a vent hole hole on his new master
cylinder.

this was a long time ago, but maybe there is another one.

we are McCook, Ne, heading for the mountains.

Pioneer Village yesterday....3rd time for me 1st for Jan.

Joe A






-----Original Message-----
From: Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net>
To: TRiumphs <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>; 6Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Aug 15, 2011 7:28 am
Subject: [6pack] Weird Brake issue


My car, a 74 TR6, is experiencing a very long brake pedal after I have been
on the road for a while. The pedal goes almost to the floor, just like the
dreaded brake pad knockback. When I drive around town, this doesn't occur,
only on a road trip (I am on my way to VTR). This doesn't happen after a
hard corner, just some highway cruising. My current setup is

new brake rotors
freshly rebuilt Toyota calipers with new pads
Uncle Jack front stub axle, wheel bearing kit, front hubs
new ss brake lines
new aluminum drums
new 7/8" Morgan rear wheel cylinders
new rear shoes
new master cylinder
rebuilt servo
fresh DOT5 fluid, bled twice, no air visible

Using the grab the wheels and shake test, the wheel bearings are tight. I am
not losing any brake fluid. I was, and discovered that the o-rings in the
PDWA were bad, and was losing fluid and I imagine brake system pressure from
under the switch. I just discovered the source of that leak just before
leaving for VTR, and didn't have time to replace the o-rings so I removed
the switch and put a plug in its place. Other than this issue, the car stops
great.

Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions gratefully accepted.

Thanks,

Irv Korey
74 TR6CF22767U
Highland Park, IL (now in Council Bluffs, IA)

________________________________________


6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com

From william.f.daehler at delphi.com  Mon Aug 15 07:49:59 2011
From: william.f.daehler at delphi.com (Daehler, William F)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 13:49:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Weak Turn Cancellation Mechanism:
Message-ID: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D022C97@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>

After completing a turn my turn indicator lever usually fails to  cancel.  I
can stay "turning left" or "turning right" for miles and miles.

I have removed the escutcheons and studied the mechanism.  All the parts are
there, and it does work when its off.   It looks Just kind of worn looking,
and as certainly complicated as a Swiss watch.

I'm tempted to weld taller bumps on top of the risers of the cancellation clip
that snaps onto the steering wheel shaft.

Has anyone out there resolved a similar problem? And what  did you try or do?


Will Daehler
Sr.Process Engineer
Delphi Electronics
Cell 414-477-0356

*****************************************************************************
*********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient,
or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the
intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
*****************************************************************************
***********

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Mon Aug 15 07:54:19 2011
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 14:54:19 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)
In-Reply-To: <20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>
References: <mailman.3.1313344802.7852.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>
Message-ID: <82B7754BE911418C97452E97BF83208B@AdrianPC>

David,

In UK we call this Wills Ringing, I assume some guy called Wills may have 
invented the idea.

It was a very popular solution on the Coventry Climax engine used in a 
British car, the Hillman Imp, which was well known for blowing head gaskets 
when used hard in competition.

The principle of a copper filled groove worked well on this engine and the 
machining for the groove was always done to the cylinder head. I have no 
reason to believe that on the TR engine it would not work just as well. 
Although if you were fitting new liners then the machining work would be 
much easier and cheaper to do on the liner.

Regards,
Adrian TR4 CT64306 O
Wales UK

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Ljung Madison" <team.net at Daveola.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 3:24 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)


>> ..plan on using Randall's "Fire Ring of .020" copper wire to ensure
>> I have a good seal against the liners.
>
> This sounds like a great way to help keep the seal.
>
> I seem to blow my head gasket about once a year and I'm tired of
> replacing it.  Does anyone have photos of how this ring of wire
> is done?  Can the groove be machined in the head instead of the
> block so I don't have to pull the engine?  And will this help
> avoid blowing gaskets, in particular between cylinders?
>
> Dave
> http://Triumph.Daveola.com/
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net 

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Aug 15 08:10:49 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 07:10:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Weak Turn Cancellation Mechanism:
In-Reply-To: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D022C97@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
References: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D022C97@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
Message-ID: <D5453EF104724BDE8E54FDD14125898C@Vista>

Have you had the steering shaft out since it last functioned correctly?  If
so, you may not have the cancel cam on the steering shaft centered between
the two cancel dogs on the switch.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daehler, William F
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 6:50 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Weak Turn Cancellation Mechanism:

After completing a turn my turn indicator lever usually fails to  cancel.  I
can stay "turning left" or "turning right" for miles and miles.

I have removed the escutcheons and studied the mechanism.  All the parts are
there, and it does work when its off.   It looks Just kind of worn looking,
and as certainly complicated as a Swiss watch.

I'm tempted to weld taller bumps on top of the risers of the cancellation
clip
that snaps onto the steering wheel shaft.

Has anyone out there resolved a similar problem? And what  did you try or
do?


Will Daehler
Sr.Process Engineer
Delphi Electronics
Cell 414-477-0356

****************************************************************************
*
*********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended
recipient,
or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the
intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
****************************************************************************
*
***********


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Aug 15 08:18:48 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 08:18:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Weird Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AA786C50-96FC-4D88-90BF-6CED492FBAD9@comcast.net>

Irv,

I have o-rings for the PWDA come by my house and we'll fix it or I can  
bring the o-rings to Breckenridge and we'll fix it there.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Aug 15, 2011, at 6:16 AM, Irv Korey wrote:

> My car, a 74 TR6, is experiencing a very long brake pedal after I  
> have been
> on the road for a while. The pedal goes almost to the floor, just  
> like the
> dreaded brake pad knockback. When I drive around town, this doesn't  
> occur,
> only on a road trip (I am on my way to VTR). This doesn't happen  
> after a
> hard corner, just some highway cruising. My current setup is
>
> new brake rotors
> freshly rebuilt Toyota calipers with new pads
> Uncle Jack front stub axle, wheel bearing kit, front hubs
> new ss brake lines
> new aluminum drums
> new 7/8" Morgan rear wheel cylinders
> new rear shoes
> new master cylinder
> rebuilt servo
> fresh DOT5 fluid, bled twice, no air visible
>
> Using the grab the wheels and shake test, the wheel bearings are  
> tight. I am
> not losing any brake fluid. I was, and discovered that the o-rings  
> in the
> PDWA were bad, and was losing fluid and I imagine brake system  
> pressure from
> under the switch. I just discovered the source of that leak just  
> before
> leaving for VTR, and didn't have time to replace the o-rings so I  
> removed
> the switch and put a plug in its place. Other than this issue, the  
> car stops
> great.
>
> Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions gratefully accepted.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL (now in Council Bluffs, IA)
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Aug 15 08:22:30 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 14:22:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] VTR bound, email me your cell phone #
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1041773422.158063.1313418150962.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

sand I will email you mine:

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From eoot at citlink.net  Mon Aug 15 08:46:23 2011
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 10:46:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Passing of a Triumph friend
Message-ID: <694A5F05FDA44AEEAC1C6855A368FAA1@Office>

It is with sadness that I report the passing of a long time contributor to
this list, John R Herrera. John's posts had become much less frequent over the
last couple of years as he struggled with his illness, but his interest never
waned. I first "met" John on this list with his offer of advice, only to
discover later that we lived 40 minutes apart. A friendship grew over the 6
years I knew him and he was a great help to me, as I'm sure he was to others.
He had a true passion for Triumphs and particularly for vintage racing.  He
was never happier than when a attending a vintage race.
May eternal peace be with him, and I believe somewhere he's at the vintage
races again.

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Aug 15 10:38:52 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 10:38:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Weird Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <218EA57C-4D94-43FA-952C-FF0F30ACA11B@comcast.net>

Irv,

Another thought..maybe you have a leak in the booster diaphram that  
shows up once it heats up the engine bay.  Try a bolt in the vacuum  
hose going to the booster.  You'll still have brakes, just not  
"boosted" brakes.

Had a booster go out pulling into the VTR parking lot in Portland,  
Oregon for VTR2000, but someone pointed out that I still had brakes so  
I autocrossed it and drove 1400 miles home and didn't replace it for  
about a year.  I kinda got used to driving it that way and almost  
thought about disconnecting the vac line and plugging it to autocross  
because I felt like I had a better feel for pedal pressure when  
braking for cones.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Aug 15, 2011, at 6:16 AM, Irv Korey wrote:

> My car, a 74 TR6, is experiencing a very long brake pedal after I  
> have been
> on the road for a while. The pedal goes almost to the floor, just  
> like the
> dreaded brake pad knockback. When I drive around town, this doesn't  
> occur,
> only on a road trip (I am on my way to VTR). This doesn't happen  
> after a
> hard corner, just some highway cruising. My current setup is
>
> new brake rotors
> freshly rebuilt Toyota calipers with new pads
> Uncle Jack front stub axle, wheel bearing kit, front hubs
> new ss brake lines
> new aluminum drums
> new 7/8" Morgan rear wheel cylinders
> new rear shoes
> new master cylinder
> rebuilt servo
> fresh DOT5 fluid, bled twice, no air visible
>
> Using the grab the wheels and shake test, the wheel bearings are  
> tight. I am
> not losing any brake fluid. I was, and discovered that the o-rings  
> in the
> PDWA were bad, and was losing fluid and I imagine brake system  
> pressure from
> under the switch. I just discovered the source of that leak just  
> before
> leaving for VTR, and didn't have time to replace the o-rings so I  
> removed
> the switch and put a plug in its place. Other than this issue, the  
> car stops
> great.
>
> Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions gratefully accepted.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL (now in Council Bluffs, IA)
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From jimbyjove at comcast.net  Mon Aug 15 11:01:37 2011
From: jimbyjove at comcast.net (Jim Coleman)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 13:01:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] [tr] TRF S.P. (and wedge parts)
Message-ID: <000a01cc5b6c$ff6f94c0$fe4ebe40$@net>

Yeah Marty,

 

Great Summer Party and congrats on your family's times on the autocross!

 

Regarding the plastic pieces on the side hinges of the top, I also had one
missing.  My TR8 never leaked because of it though.   There was one time
several years ago, some of us on our way to a car show,  took several TRs,
including 3 Wedges, through a  drive-through car wash.  (Big mistake - DON'T
do it!!) and water from all sides went clear through the car including the
suds phase.   Even the drivers got washed.

 

I found several plastic hinge pieces I needed on a TR7 DHC at a local 'pick
and pay.'

 

Works fine.

 

Jim Coleman

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 15 11:05:34 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 13:05:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Passing of a Triumph friend
In-Reply-To: <694A5F05FDA44AEEAC1C6855A368FAA1@Office>
References: <694A5F05FDA44AEEAC1C6855A368FAA1@Office>
Message-ID: <BLU160-W565532C0D11A8E4A3AD972BA260@phx.gbl>

Thanks for letting us know. It was an honor to have considered him my friend.

Marty


> From: eoot at citlink.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 10:46:23 -0400
> Subject: [TR] Passing of a Triumph friend
>
> It is with sadness that I report the passing of a long time contributor to
> this list, John R Herrera. John's posts had become much less frequent over
the
> last couple of years as he struggled with his illness, but his interest
never
> waned. I first "met" John on this list with his offer of advice, only to
> discover later that we lived 40 minutes apart. A friendship grew over the 6
> years I knew him and he was a great help to me, as I'm sure he was to
others.
> He had a true passion for Triumphs and particularly for vintage racing. He
> was never happier than when a attending a vintage race.
> May eternal peace be with him, and I believe somewhere he's at the vintage
> races again.
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trmarty at hotmail.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug 15 12:00:24 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 14:00:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Passing of a Triumph friend
Message-ID: <143fa.6233228a.3b7ab8b8@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/15/2011 9:46:41 AM Central Daylight Time, 
eoot at citlink.net writes: 
> It is with sadness that I report the passing of a long time contributor 
> to
> this list, John R Herrera. John's posts had become much less frequent over 
> the
> last couple of years as he struggled with his illness, but his interest 
> never
> waned. I first "met" John on this list with his offer of advice, only to
> discover later that we lived 40 minutes apart. A friendship grew over the 
> 6
> years I knew him and he was a great help to me, as I'm sure he was to 
> others.
> He had a true passion for Triumphs and particularly for vintage racing.  
> He
> was never happier than when a attending a vintage race.
> May eternal peace be with him, and I believe somewhere he's at the vintage
> races again.
> 
I certainly hope so, it would be a suiting reward for his contributions to 
the hobby.

RIP John.

Dave

From tr250driver at aol.com  Mon Aug 15 13:54:08 2011
From: tr250driver at aol.com (Darrell Floyd)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 13:54:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack. Need 1976 tr6 alternator
In-Reply-To: <218EA57C-4D94-43FA-952C-FF0F30ACA11B@comcast.net>
References: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
	<218EA57C-4D94-43FA-952C-FF0F30ACA11B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6C6D8D0E-85FB-4A48-A27D-5A7C2AA33A83@aol.com>

Fellow NCTA member lost alternator on way to Breckenridge.  Will make it by
swapping batteries with others in caravan.  Can someone help with supplying
alternator at VTR National?  Call Darrell Floyd at 330-256-8450.  I'm already
at Beaver Run

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 15, 2011, at 10:38 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> Irv,
>
> Another thought..maybe you have a leak in the booster diaphram that shows up
once it heats up the engine bay.  Try a bolt in the vacuum hose going to the
booster.  You'll still have brakes, just not "boosted" brakes.
>
> Had a booster go out pulling into the VTR parking lot in Portland, Oregon
for VTR2000, but someone pointed out that I still had brakes so I autocrossed
it and drove 1400 miles home and didn't replace it for about a year.  I kinda
got used to driving it that way and almost thought about disconnecting the vac
line and plugging it to autocross because I felt like I had a better feel for
pedal pressure when braking for cones.
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 15, 2011, at 6:16 AM, Irv Korey wrote:
>
>> My car, a 74 TR6, is experiencing a very long brake pedal after I have
been
>> on the road for a while. The pedal goes almost to the floor, just like the
>> dreaded brake pad knockback. When I drive around town, this doesn't occur,
>> only on a road trip (I am on my way to VTR). This doesn't happen after a
>> hard corner, just some highway cruising. My current setup is
>>
>> new brake rotors
>> freshly rebuilt Toyota calipers with new pads
>> Uncle Jack front stub axle, wheel bearing kit, front hubs
>> new ss brake lines
>> new aluminum drums
>> new 7/8" Morgan rear wheel cylinders
>> new rear shoes
>> new master cylinder
>> rebuilt servo
>> fresh DOT5 fluid, bled twice, no air visible
>>
>> Using the grab the wheels and shake test, the wheel bearings are tight. I
am
>> not losing any brake fluid. I was, and discovered that the o-rings in the
>> PDWA were bad, and was losing fluid and I imagine brake system pressure
from
>> under the switch. I just discovered the source of that leak just before
>> leaving for VTR, and didn't have time to replace the o-rings so I removed
>> the switch and put a plug in its place. Other than this issue, the car
stops
>> great.
>>
>> Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions gratefully accepted.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Irv Korey
>> 74 TR6CF22767U
>> Highland Park, IL (now in Council Bluffs, IA)
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr250driver at aol.com

From carlsereda at aol.com  Mon Aug 15 14:28:27 2011
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 13:28:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 weak turn cancel
In-Reply-To: <mailman.33680.1313417944.3301.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E907C97B.6897.4EA0.8FB7.AD929C0744F3@aol.com>

Will,
1) Maybe your steering shaft bushing is worn enough to drop the shaft a bit
making it hard for cancel fingers to reach the bumps on canceling clip? FYI: I
doubled up the bushings in my TR4 column (installed 4 instead of 2) and it
feels great (the secondary bushes ride on new not worn metal).
2) Perhaps you can get by for awhile by moving the signal switch mounting
holes a bit closer to the shaft but if the shaft has dropped the cancel clip
will be off-center.
Good luck,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
 
On Aug 15, 2011, at 7:19:04 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

After completing a turn my turn indicator lever usually fails to cancel. I
can stay "turning left" or "turning right" for miles and miles.

I have removed the escutcheons and studied the mechanism. All the parts are
there, and it does work when its off. It looks Just kind of worn looking,
and as certainly complicated as a Swiss watch.

I'm tempted to weld taller bumps on top of the risers of the cancellation
clip
that snaps onto the steering wheel shaft.

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Aug 15 15:22:24 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 21:22:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)
In-Reply-To: <20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>
Message-ID: <1421463466.241499.1313443344808.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I seem to blow my head gasket about once a year and I'm tired of
>replacing it.  Does anyone have photos of how this ring of wire
>is done?  Can the groove be machined in the head instead of the
>block so I don't have to pull the engine?  And will this help
>avoid blowing gaskets, in particular between cylinders?

Dave, I blew the head gasket a second time in just a couple thousand miles recently.  This time I took the head to the machine shop and it was in need of milling, so that caused the fast deterioration the second time.  

On Randall's advice, I've also been in contact with the Gasketworks in Southern California, where they sell a ring system with their gaskets.  Apparently they supply Moss, so that would be where to get the gasket itself.  The guy had two thicknesses (I forget the specs) but recommended the thicker one.  

I'm still waiting for the order to come in, and along with it the directions for how to use it.  You could try calling them.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Aug 15 15:27:05 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 21:27:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Weird Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2049084822.241783.1313443625979.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>The pedal goes almost to the floor.  When I drive around town, this doesn't occur,
>only on a road trip (I am on my way to VTR). This doesn't happen after a
>hard corner, just some highway cruising. I am not losing any brake fluid. 

Couple of questions, but no solutions!......

Did you check all your wheel cylinders?

When you did your bleeding, did you start with the cylinder nearest the Master cylinder or the one farthest away.  (I've even forgotten which is more appropriate.)

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Aug 15 15:57:46 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 14:57:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)
In-Reply-To: <20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>
References: <mailman.3.1313344802.7852.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>
	<20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFQWo52oR=iAWzsnnr0Jhx8G9VUutBbLB-s1mOoeMZ7qQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 7:24 PM, David Ljung Madison
<team.net at daveola.com>wrote:

> > ..plan on using Randall's "Fire Ring of .020" copper wire to ensure
> > I have a good seal against the liners.
>
> This sounds like a great way to help keep the seal.
>
> Does anyone have photos of how this ring of wire
> is done?...
>

Here a photo I saved from a post by Randall...

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/20awgWireAroundCylinder.jpg



On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 6:54 AM, Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net> wrote:

> In UK we call this Wills Ringing, I assume some guy called Wills may have
> invented the idea.
>

 And in the US we call it Randall Ringing?

Geo

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 15 17:11:02 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 16:11:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFQWo52oR=iAWzsnnr0Jhx8G9VUutBbLB-s1mOoeMZ7qQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.3.1313344802.7852.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>
	<20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>
	<CANzE1bFQWo52oR=iAWzsnnr0Jhx8G9VUutBbLB-s1mOoeMZ7qQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1313449862.6048.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

great picture Geo
i used Randall's fire ring recently and having done it once
ill never build a wet liner again without doing this.
as you can see from the
picture one side of the copper gasket is rolled over to hold the non rolled
side in place.
the fire ring is soldered in place just around the where the
roll over finishes. the solder is just to hold it in place.
Randall told me he
now uses super glue to hold the ring of wire in place.
i soldered in 4 places.
the fire ring side goes to the sleeve side, not the head.
i did not attempt to
have any groves machined into the sleeves.
its been great since.
Frank 

From:
Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: David Ljung Madison <team.net at daveola.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 2:57 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)

On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 7:24 PM,
David Ljung Madison
<team.net at daveola.com>wrote:

> > ..plan on using
Randall's "Fire Ring of .020" copper wire to ensure
> > I have a good seal
against the liners.
>
> This sounds like a great way to help keep the seal.
>
> Does anyone have photos of how this ring of wire
> is done?...
>

Here a
photo I saved from a post by Randall...
http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/20awgWireAroundCylinder.
jpg



On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 6:54 AM, Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net>
wrote:

> In UK we call this Wills Ringing, I assume some guy called Wills may
have
> invented the idea.
>

And in the US we call it Randall Ringing?

Geo
triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 15 18:19:44 2011
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 19:19:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)
In-Reply-To: <1313449862.6048.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.3.1313344802.7852.triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	<4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>,
	<20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>,
	<CANzE1bFQWo52oR=iAWzsnnr0Jhx8G9VUutBbLB-s1mOoeMZ7qQ@mail.gmail.com>,
	<1313449862.6048.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W20CED659C505874901A2C8E1290@phx.gbl>

Where is Randall?
I would have expected him to chime in by now.
inquiring minds want to know...

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From team.net at daveola.com  Mon Aug 15 20:31:20 2011
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 19:31:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFQWo52oR=iAWzsnnr0Jhx8G9VUutBbLB-s1mOoeMZ7qQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.3.1313344802.7852.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>
	<20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>
	<CANzE1bFQWo52oR=iAWzsnnr0Jhx8G9VUutBbLB-s1mOoeMZ7qQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20110816023119.GC28543@getdave.com>

On 11/08/15 14:57 -0700, Geo Hahn wrote:
> On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 7:24 PM, David Ljung Madison
> <team.net at daveola.com>wrote:
> > Does anyone have photos of how this ring of wire
> > is done?...
> 
> Here a photo I saved from a post by Randall...
> http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/20awgWireAroundCylinder.jpg

I don't quite see it - that looks like the copper gasket I normally get
from Moss, with possibly some solder splotches on it.  The head gasket
normally comes with the copper folded back on the edges like that, I was
under the impression that the ring of wire was something grooved into
the head that the gasket would press against.

Dave6000

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                 415.341.5555
--------------- Want to learn Unix?  Type 'ls -R /' today! ---------------- 

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Aug 15 23:25:52 2011
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 22:25:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Tuning TR3 SU Carbs
Message-ID: <1313472352.83428.YahooMailClassic@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     My TR3A started idling very fast, about 22-2500 rpms. It had been running fine. I checked/set the float levels and checked the levels after running (the same level). I reset the needle (SM's) to make sure they were seated right and checked centering in the jet. I checked with flow with my German made flow meter. The forward carburetor airflow can't be slowed down sufficiently and it idles at about 1300 rpm's when tuning the carbs. The mixture seems to be set right at that rpms and the engine rev's very well. I've got the idle/airflow screw on the forward carb screwed out until it is not touching and the choke fast idle isn't touching the cam. I checked to make sure that the vacuum advance line hasn't backed out or anything. I visually looked at the butterfly and it appears to be closed down tight. Everything appears tightened down, so I don't see where air would be leaking in.
     I've tuned these many times without much trouble, but this one has got me stumped.
     I may spray starter fluid around the intake manifold with the engine running to see if it speeds up, which would indicate a leak.
     Any ideas?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 16 08:59:50 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 07:59:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement
In-Reply-To: <20110816023119.GC28543@getdave.com>
References: <mailman.3.1313344802.7852.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>
	<20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>
	<CANzE1bFQWo52oR=iAWzsnnr0Jhx8G9VUutBbLB-s1mOoeMZ7qQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<20110816023119.GC28543@getdave.com>
Message-ID: <1313506790.62614.YahooMailNeo@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

there is no grove machined into anything.
it is thin (0.020"), dead soft
copper wire, laid down on the head gasket to give additional thickness and
soft enough to bed down between the gasket and the liners.
the solder just
holds it in place.
 

From: David Ljung Madison <team.net at daveola.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 7:31 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] TR-3B Head Replacement

On 11/08/15 14:57 -0700, Geo Hahn wrote:
> On
Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 7:24 PM, David Ljung Madison
>
<team.net at daveola.com>wrote:
> > Does anyone have photos of how this ring of
wire
> > is done?...
> 
> Here a photo I saved from a post by Randall...
>
http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/20awgWireAroundCylinder.
jpg

I don't quite see it - that looks like the copper gasket I normally get
from Moss, with possibly some solder splotches on it.  The head gasket
normally comes with the copper folded back on the edges like that, I was
under
the impression that the ring of wire was something grooved into
the head that
the gasket would press against.

Dave6000
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
--------------- Want to learn Unix?  Type 'ls -R /' today! ----------------
triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Aug 16 11:48:11 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 12:48:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tuning TR3 SU Carbs
In-Reply-To: <1313472352.83428.YahooMailClassic@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1313472352.83428.YahooMailClassic@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <967EA560-4A88-4E8D-8029-B1E6259A02FC@flash.net>

Had the same problem this year, turned out that the connecting shaft had
slipped and was holding the rear carb open when everything else appeared to be
closed and in proper order.

Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 16, 2011, at 12:25 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

>     My TR3A started idling very fast, about 22-2500 rpms. It had been
running fine. I checked/set the float levels and checked the levels after
running (the same level). I reset the needle (SM's) to make sure they were
seated right and checked centering in the jet. I checked with flow with my
German made flow meter. The forward carburetor airflow can't be slowed down
sufficiently and it idles at about 1300 rpm's when tuning the carbs. The
mixture seems to be set right at that rpms and the engine rev's very well.
I've got the idle/airflow screw on the forward carb screwed out until it is
not touching and the choke fast idle isn't touching the cam. I checked to make
sure that the vacuum advance line hasn't backed out or anything. I visually
looked at the butterfly and it appears to be closed down tight. Everything
appears tightened down, so I don't see where air would be leaking in.
>     I've tuned these many times without much trouble, but this one has got
me stumped.
>     I may spray starter fluid around the intake manifold with the engine
running to see if it speeds up, which would indicate a leak.
>     Any ideas?
>
>     -Bill in Tehachapi
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Aug 16 17:14:24 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 16:14:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement
In-Reply-To: <20110816023119.GC28543@getdave.com>
References: <mailman.3.1313344802.7852.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>
	<20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>
	<CANzE1bFQWo52oR=iAWzsnnr0Jhx8G9VUutBbLB-s1mOoeMZ7qQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<20110816023119.GC28543@getdave.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bH0f51_t0q_=f3Ji1SHwT7JY9jaktNtPGVeeM4M-N7Jog@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 7:31 PM, David Ljung Madison
<team.net at daveola.com>wrote:

>
> http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/20awgWireAroundCylinder.jpg
>
> I don't quite see it...
>

20 awg is only about 1/32" so it is hard to see, can mostly see the wire at
12:00 and 6:00 on the righthand cylinder.

There are 2 methods being discussed -- one involves a groove machined in the
head, the other (simpler, possibly more ghetto) is just a wire sandwich.

As I recall Randall had liners that were not evenly proud of the block and
the wire was added to help the gasket seal.

Geo

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 16 19:51:17 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 18:51:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] windshields
Message-ID: <1313545877.21249.YahooMailNeo@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on tinted or clear windshields? 
(tr-3)  I'm not particularly tied down to originality.  Wondering if the extra
money is worth being tinted.

thanks!

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 16 21:18:28 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:18:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tuning TR3 SU Carbs
In-Reply-To: <1313472352.83428.YahooMailClassic@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1313472352.83428.YahooMailClassic@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ABA7A5ABF3884C858A8DBFC24509547A@Meislaptop>

> The forward carburetor airflow can't be slowed
> down sufficiently

This seems like the key statement to me.  If you can measure too much air
going in the carb intake, then air is getting past the butterfly somehow;
whether you can see the gap or not.  A leak anywhere else (or incorrect
float levels, or wrong needle position etc) won't cause too much air going
into the carb intake.

If you are certain that the linkage is free (including the link to the rear
carb being loose), I'd pull the carb, and look directly at the butterfly
while shining a strong light in the other side.  Since ISTR you doing some
carb work recently, I'd suspect that one of the screws is loose and the
butterfly has shifted position just enough to hold it open slightly.

-- Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Aug 16 21:24:41 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 03:24:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] windshields
In-Reply-To: <1313545877.21249.YahooMailNeo@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1680105.48690.1313551481556.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I can put on sunglasses in the daytime.  I can't un-tint my windshield at night.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 8:51:17 PM
> Subject: [TR] windshields
> Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on tinted or clear
> windshields?
> (tr-3) I'm not particularly tied down to originality. Wondering if the
> extra
> money is worth being tinted.
> 
> thanks!
> 
> gary n.
> 
> 
> triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Aug 16 21:44:09 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:44:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] windshields
In-Reply-To: <1313545877.21249.YahooMailNeo@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <1313545877.21249.YahooMailNeo@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8C909036DA664C02A7E226EE5802318A@bboffice>

Gary,

I wouldn't spend the money unless you are just going for a particular look.
If you are driving with the top down on a nice day, most of the time I would
bet(except for Terry in NH), you have so much sunlight coming in from
everywhere else the tint would be of little use.  $5.00 for a pair of cheap
sunglasses does the trick!

Bill 

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on tinted or clear windshields? 
(tr-3)  I'm not particularly tied down to originality.  Wondering if the
extra money is worth being tinted.

thanks!

gary n.ptions/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 16 21:49:06 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:49:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W20CED659C505874901A2C8E1290@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.3.1313344802.7852.triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	<4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>,
	<20110815022454.GB11700@getdave.com>,
	<CANzE1bFQWo52oR=iAWzsnnr0Jhx8G9VUutBbLB-s1mOoeMZ7qQ@mail.gmail.com>,
	<1313449862.6048.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<SNT123-W20CED659C505874901A2C8E1290@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <087672E1DE9D47F3A0C24ED90930E1B7@Meislaptop>

> Where is Randall?

Well, I've got to take a vacation at least once in awhile!  Been "roughing
it" next to a lake in IN, with no cell phone and no Internet; a most
relaxing vacation!  Even went to visit some Amish farms ... if they only
drove Triumphs I might sign up!

I think George already covered it, but just to recap : I have had two TR
motors in a row now, where the liner protrusion was much too low on one
side.  Adding the copper wire was intended only as a stop-gap measure until
I could build a motor properly; however as it happened I wound up using it
for some 10 years on my TR3A and now about 2 years on the TR3 and no further
problems with head gasket leaks.  The gasket on the TR3A was even reused
once!

The mod was only to a stock composite-type head gasket; no changes to block,
liners or head.  The more recent gasket was a Payen brand; best I recall,
the one I used 15 years ago (on the now-wrecked TR3A) was probably a cheap
aftermarket.  The wire was bare "half hard" copper wire (although I'm sure
that any hardness would work).  The spool of wire came from MMC, but they
don't seem to carry that particular product any more.  If you simply cannot
source it anywhere else, I could probably be talked into parting with a few
feet of it <G>

I simply tacked it into place around each cylinder opening, just outside the
folded part of the stock gasket, using ordinary 'electronic' solder (63/37
lead/tin with rosin core).  The ends were overlapped slightly and soldered.
There is a close-up taken just before the final soldering at
http://tinyurl.com/3m2tzp3
which might be a little clearer than the previous photo.

HTH
-- Randall
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White
> Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 7:20 PM
> Cc: TR owners List
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)
> 
> I would have expected him to chime in by now.
> inquiring minds want to know...
> 
> Rich White Central, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF###L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
> 
> 
> triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 16 21:51:07 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:51:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement
In-Reply-To: <4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>
References: <4E46A8A8020000EF0000A5BE@smtp.mainet.com>
Message-ID: <AFE37CAC6F9A42CCAB188DEDF23008C5@Meislaptop>

> Which way should the "Fire Ring" face - toward the head or
> toward
> the block?

Oops, sorry, hadn't read this yet.  I don't think it matters, but I put the
added ring towards the liners.

-- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 16 22:25:45 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 23:25:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] An electrical question to the list and an offer
In-Reply-To: <201108130809.08290.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <293978433.4523352.1313187270510.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>
	<201108130809.08290.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <9E3A244763844675A0C60D87FDEDD663@Meislaptop>

> There was a Ebay vendor that sold new improved sockets with a separate
> ground
> for each socket but he informs me he is out of stock.

FWIW, the new sockets I got from both TRF and Rimmers were of the new design
(with the separate ground terminal).  Much better design IMO, but the new
ground wire is required.  They don't ground at all through the clip (as the
old ones did).

I think the Buckeye Triumphs site has a tech article on how to solder the
ground within the original sockets.  On my Stag, I actually had to add a
short length of wire to bridge the gap!

-- Randall

From emanteno at comcast.net  Tue Aug 16 23:48:59 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 00:48:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] Weird Brake Issue - Resolved
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyhSZKmqU-pfbL_C-NUwLa69nsfdC_Jgd_nmk38ti2VcBA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to ALL who sent suggestions/tips/HELP.

The problem turned out to be brake pad knock back. I took my car to a
"professional mechanic" to do some stuff including installing
the Uncle Jack front hub stiffening kit. The kit was installed incorrectly,
and the front bearings were much too loose. Not anymore.

Thanks, ALL.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL (arriving at VTR in Breckinridge tomorrow)

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Wed Aug 17 06:35:40 2011
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 05:35:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Anyone know what's up?
Message-ID: <1313584540.96642.YahooMailNeo@web30908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have been on the digest mode of both the Triumphs and 6-Pack list for many
years.  I just open my one daily e-mail of each one and ALL messages are right
there to read.  Recently the Triumphs list has each individual message listed
as an attachment that has to then be downloaded and opened to view.  Very
frustrating.  Not so on the 6-pack list (for what that's worth nowadays) -
everything there is normal.
 
What's up with that?
 
Joe Merone
CF18928
5-speed 

From carlsereda at aol.com  Wed Aug 17 13:03:31 2011
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 12:03:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 110
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1313604005.14695.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <474740E0.CC6B.473C.84B7.1EAF019E5D9F@aol.com>

If you're tall like me at over 6'1" in a TR4 you're forced to look through
only the area near the top - awkard enough, without a dark band of tint...
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on tinted or clear windshields? 
(tr-3) I'm not particularly tied down to originality. Wondering if the extra
money is worth being tinted.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 17 14:16:33 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 13:16:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] zenith carb float height
Message-ID: <1313612193.73572.YahooMailNeo@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

having a discussion with a friend about the float height on zenith carbs.
for the TR6 ZS type i think its 15 to 17mm. cant get to my manual till the weekend. can any one confirm?
also for the zenith supplied on the TR4, was it a different carb with different float height adjustments?
thanks
Frank

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Wed Aug 17 15:34:17 2011
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 17:34:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby"
Message-ID: <b39e.4de22e25.3b7d8dd9@aol.com>

It was truly sad to read of the passing of John.   He wrote the  following 
in October of 2009 and since the wording was so moving, I  saved and have 
read it often.  In John's honor please read slowly and enjoy  the passion he 
had for our beloved Triumphs.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
 
 
 
In a message dated 10/12/2009 12:32:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jrherrera90 at hotmail.com writes:





I really don't want to retire from the TR  hobby.



I have a chronic illness and am unable to work. I can't  work on the TR3 
much
anymore; not even clean it. I rarely have the energy  to drive it.



My only income is a meager Social Security  Disability payment. I am up to 
here
in credit card debt. I could sell the  car to pay off the debt, but 
instead, I
charge more  parts.



Why, then, don't I sell the TR3 and retire from the  hobby?



I could say that I love the car so much that I can't  bring myself to live
without it. Or that the camaraderie of the TR  community keeps me going. Or
even that driving the car, however rarely,  gives me pleasure and the 
desire to
live.



But it's none of  these. No, it's because I can't stand to become one of 
those
guys who spend  their empty days hanging about gas stations, quickie marts,
restaurants,  etc.



They wait and wait for a TR3 to drive  up.



Broken men.



Forgotten  men.



Men with hollow cheeks and glazed-over eyes with a  far-away look in them.



"I used to have one of these", they say  to you in a husky voice as they 
try to
hold back the  emotion.



I don't want to become like that, so I'll try to keep  my car a little 
longer.



John  H.

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Aug 17 15:46:25 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 21:46:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] windshields
In-Reply-To: <8C909036DA664C02A7E226EE5802318A@bboffice>
Message-ID: <403262457.350395.1313617585628.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I wouldn't spend the money unless you are just going for a particular look.
>If you are driving with the top down on a nice day, most of the time I would
>bet(except for Terry in NH), you have so much sunlight coming in from
>everywhere else the tint would be of little use.  $5.00 for a pair of cheap
>sunglasses does the trick!

Hey, Bill!  We have sunshine in NH!  ...Only $2.50 per quart!  It's for painting onto the underside of the our softops.....

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667
New Hampshire

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Wed Aug 17 16:31:58 2011
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 22:31:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hesitation with high revs
Message-ID: <2072181448.98578.1313620318397.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I am experiencing high revs (3000 to 4000+ RPMs) with my '70 TR6 when I attempt to excelerate but the car does not respond until it gains speed.  I have had this before but it never lasted. It tends to happen more from a stop but can occur when I am in 3rd or 4th gear.  What are the thoughts on what could be causing this to occur.  TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3A

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 17 18:31:20 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 17:31:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] What's up?
Message-ID: <1313627480.64782.YahooMailNeo@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Joe M. & List!
Joe, you wrote that it's frustrating to download each
TRIUMPH List E-mail. Suggestion: switch over to the TRIUMPH Digest mode &
you'll get one E-mail with the days worth of E-mails that were sent in. Yes,
you don't get the 'up to the min,' report, but many people don't read each
singal E-mail at once.
 
Just a thought.

-Cosmo Kramer

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Wed Aug 17 18:35:41 2011
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 17:35:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hesitation with high revs
In-Reply-To: <2072181448.98578.1313620318397.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2072181448.98578.1313620318397.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4E4C5E5D.1080906@comcast.net>

So you step on the gas, the engine revs, but the car doesn't move? If 
that's what you 're saying, I would suspect the clutch.
Bob

On 8/17/2011 3:31 PM, suhringtr36 at comcast.net wrote:
> I am experiencing high revs (3000 to 4000+ RPMs) with my '70 TR6 when I attempt to excelerate but the car does not respond until it gains speed.  I have had this before but it never lasted. It tends to happen more from a stop but can occur when I am in 3rd or 4th gear.  What are the thoughts on what could be causing this to occur.  TIA
>
> Scott Suhring
> Mechanicsburg, PA
> '70 TR6
> '59 TR3A

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 17 19:06:52 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 18:06:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] zenith carb float height
In-Reply-To: <1313619459.79137.YahooMailNeo@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1313612193.73572.YahooMailNeo@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<1313619459.79137.YahooMailNeo@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1313629612.38246.YahooMailNeo@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

thanks Chad
11/16 = 17.4mm

From: Chad <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com>
To: Frank
Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 3:17 PM
Subject:
Re: [TR] zenith carb float height


11/16"
 
Chad in Tulsa

From: Frank Fisher
<yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 17,
2011 3:16 PM
Subject: [TR] zenith carb float height

having a discussion with
a friend about the float height on zenith carbs.
for the TR6 ZS type i think
its 15 to 17mm. cant get to my manual till the weekend. can any one confirm?
also for the zenith supplied on the TR4, was it a different carb with
different float height adjustments?
thanks
Frank


triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Wed Aug 17 19:24:21 2011
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 18:24:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] What's up?
In-Reply-To: <1313627480.64782.YahooMailNeo@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1313627480.64782.YahooMailNeo@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1313630661.66440.YahooMailNeo@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Check my original message.  I've been on the digest for almost 20 years.  Now,
each digest message has all of the individual messages as attachements instead
of in the body of the message.  Think I'll unsubscribe and try it all again.
 
Joe Merone
CF18928U 5-speed

From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
To:
"Triumphs at autox.team.net" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc:
"jmerone at rocketmail.com" <jmerone at rocketmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 17,
2011 8:31 PM
Subject: What's up?


Hi Joe M. & List!
Joe, you wrote that it's
frustrating to download each TRIUMPH List E-mail. Suggestion: switch over to
the TRIUMPH Digest mode & you'll get one E-mail with the days worth of E-mails
that were sent in. Yes, you don't get the 'up to the min,' report, but many
people don't read each singal E-mail at once.
 
Just a thought.

-Cosmo
Kramer

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Aug 17 20:57:17 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 20:57:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] Anyone know what's up?
In-Reply-To: <1313584540.96642.YahooMailNeo@web30908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1313584540.96642.YahooMailNeo@web30908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E4C7F8D.3040304@bradakis.com>

As far as I know nothing has changed in the mailman server on this end 
lately.
But there have been some oddities as the old server slowly dies.  I'll work
on getting the new server, software and such on line as soon as I can.

Right now I have to deal with the effects of some spammer using a team.net
address in the 'From: ' line of some spam.  I've got about 75,000 emails 
from
this morning to sift through.  What fun.  Hopefully some simple command line
scripts will make it easier.

mjb.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 17 21:16:38 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 22:16:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Seeking Classic Car Insurance Advice
In-Reply-To: <5A782308-7976-495B-8DE3-33577F23F263@genfiniti.com>
References: <5A782308-7976-495B-8DE3-33577F23F263@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <6E74F4052C494FCF94B358D80736CE2F@Meislaptop>

FWIW, I have "stated value" insurance through Mercury and I have been very
happy with them.  It might be different if you have an over-restored show
winner; but I felt they were very fair in their valuation of my "daily
driver" TR3A when it got totaled a few years ago.  And even though I was
underinsured (the agent had even asked me if I wanted to raise the stated
value), it turned out OK because they let me keep the car (with overdrive,
Fidanza flywheel, etc.)

No restrictions, I even told them I drive it to work every day and keep it
parked on the street.  However, they refused to believe that I drive such an
old car by choice, and insisted on listing my "Triumph support vehicle" as
my primary car <g>

-- Randall

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Thu Aug 18 06:44:18 2011
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 07:44:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)
Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E870A2C2E6851@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>

Clearly Randall's experience on two separate motors, with uneven liners, shows
this to be a robust repair. I am surprised though that it doesn't impair the
sealing of the gasket around the nearby coolant ports. Still, hard to argue
with success.

Brian Jones
TR4 1962

From m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca  Fri Aug 19 02:26:55 2011
From: m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca (Mo and Dave MacKay)
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 04:26:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Have I ruined the flywheel on my TR3A?
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP9044B6A99FB8BACF31E30CA42A0@phx.gbl>

Hello:

Im replacing the gearbox in my TR3A with a Toyota W58 transmission, using
the HVDA conversion kit. The HVDA kit requires that one use a TR6 (Borg &
Beck) pressure plate instead of the usual TR3A pressure plate. The TR6
pressure plate doesnt fit into the holes used by the TR3A pressure plate;
new mounting and dowel holes must be drilled.

I took my old flywheel along with the new pressure plate etc. down to a
machinist to have him:
   1) true the flywheel
   2) drill new holes and mount the new pressure plate to the flywheel
   3) balance the resulting unit
Everything went well until step #3.

The centre hole in the flywheel (the one that the gearboxs input shaft goes
through) was too small to fit on the machinists balancing equipment. So he
made it bigger by about a half an inch so that it would fit on his machine.
He then balanced the unit and gave it back to me.

I worry (but dont know) that the flywheels centre hole was originally
sized to:
   - keep the pilot bearing from sliding out of the crankshaft
   - support the transmissions input shaft
   - provide more material to rest against the clutch plate (the bigger hole
means theres less flywheel surface for the clutch plate to press against)

Has enlarging the centre hole ruined the flywheel? Or is it no big deal (as
the machinist claims)? If it is a problem, and since the flywheels are NLA,
how could I fix this?

I appreciate your advice and suggestions.

Dave MacKay
1960 TR3A s/n 68639L
near Toronto, Canada
 

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Aug 19 05:45:33 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 07:45:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Have I ruined the flywheel on my TR3A?
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP9044B6A99FB8BACF31E30CA42A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP9044B6A99FB8BACF31E30CA42A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EED2E26FE05C47BD844F63F7194491C8@BobPC>

Herman would be the best person to ask but it's probably in Breckenridge at 
VTR.

I have the HVDA kit in my TR6 (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5Speed.htm) 
and the pilot bearing fits in the flywheel and the tranny input shaft nose 
fits in the pilot bearing so..... at the very least you probably need a new 
pilot bearing sized to the new flywheel hole.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs



-----Original Message----- 
From: Mo and Dave MacKay
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 4:26 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Have I ruined the flywheel on my TR3A?

Hello:

Im replacing the gearbox in my TR3A with a Toyota W58 transmission, using
the HVDA conversion kit. The HVDA kit requires that one use a TR6 (Borg &
Beck) pressure plate instead of the usual TR3A pressure plate. The TR6
pressure plate doesnt fit into the holes used by the TR3A pressure plate;
new mounting and dowel holes must be drilled.

I took my old flywheel along with the new pressure plate etc. down to a
machinist to have him:
   1) true the flywheel
   2) drill new holes and mount the new pressure plate to the flywheel
   3) balance the resulting unit
Everything went well until step #3.

The centre hole in the flywheel (the one that the gearboxs input shaft goes
through) was too small to fit on the machinists balancing equipment. So he
made it bigger by about a half an inch so that it would fit on his machine.
He then balanced the unit and gave it back to me.

I worry (but dont know) that the flywheels centre hole was originally
sized to:
   - keep the pilot bearing from sliding out of the crankshaft
   - support the transmissions input shaft
   - provide more material to rest against the clutch plate (the bigger hole
means theres less flywheel surface for the clutch plate to press against)

Has enlarging the centre hole ruined the flywheel? Or is it no big deal (as
the machinist claims)? If it is a problem, and since the flywheels are NLA,
how could I fix this?

I appreciate your advice and suggestions.

Dave MacKay
1960 TR3A s/n 68639L
near Toronto, Canada



triumphs at autox.team.net

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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Aug 19 06:02:37 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 08:02:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Have I ruined the flywheel on my TR3A?
References: <BLU0-SMTP9044B6A99FB8BACF31E30CA42A0@phx.gbl>
	<EED2E26FE05C47BD844F63F7194491C8@BobPC>
Message-ID: <CC0674B201B64CA3B590C6058CC5CB9F@userb38463fba5>

The pilot bearing should fit into the end of the crankshaft not the flywheel 
so that was not disturbed however the flywheel does help to hold the pilot 
bearing from moving towards the transmission as the flywheel captures the 
bearing into the crankshaft. It may not be an issue depending upon the 
length of the pilot bushing dia on the input shaft. BUT if the pilot bushing 
can move out of the crankshaft (because it's no longer being held in by the 
flywheel) it could become a problem. A solution would be to cut another 
pilot bearing to a length that will hold the inner pilot into the crankshaft 
or to have that same machinist make to a spacer to take up the length of the 
input shaft diameter thus keeping the bearing in place. It must be kept in 
the crankshaft.
JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Mo and Dave MacKay" <m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 7:45 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Have I ruined the flywheel on my TR3A?


> Herman would be the best person to ask but it's probably in Breckenridge 
> at VTR.
>
> I have the HVDA kit in my TR6 (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5Speed.htm) 
> and the pilot bearing fits in the flywheel and the tranny input shaft nose 
> fits in the pilot bearing so..... at the very least you probably need a 
> new pilot bearing sized to the new flywheel hole.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> 1975 TR6 with:
> Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed
> Nissan Diff & CVJs
>
>
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Mo and Dave MacKay
> Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 4:26 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Have I ruined the flywheel on my TR3A?
>
> Hello:
>
> Im replacing the gearbox in my TR3A with a Toyota W58 transmission, using
> the HVDA conversion kit. The HVDA kit requires that one use a TR6 (Borg &
> Beck) pressure plate instead of the usual TR3A pressure plate. The TR6
> pressure plate doesnt fit into the holes used by the TR3A pressure plate;
> new mounting and dowel holes must be drilled.
>
> I took my old flywheel along with the new pressure plate etc. down to a
> machinist to have him:
>   1) true the flywheel
>   2) drill new holes and mount the new pressure plate to the flywheel
>   3) balance the resulting unit
> Everything went well until step #3.
>
> The centre hole in the flywheel (the one that the gearboxs input shaft 
> goes
> through) was too small to fit on the machinists balancing equipment. So 
> he
> made it bigger by about a half an inch so that it would fit on his 
> machine.
> He then balanced the unit and gave it back to me.
>
> I worry (but dont know) that the flywheels centre hole was originally
> sized to:
>   - keep the pilot bearing from sliding out of the crankshaft
>   - support the transmissions input shaft
>   - provide more material to rest against the clutch plate (the bigger 
> hole
> means theres less flywheel surface for the clutch plate to press against)
>
> Has enlarging the centre hole ruined the flywheel? Or is it no big deal 
> (as
> the machinist claims)? If it is a problem, and since the flywheels are 
> NLA,
> how could I fix this?
>
> I appreciate your advice and suggestions.
>
> Dave MacKay
> 1960 TR3A s/n 68639L
> near Toronto, Canada
>
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com 

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Aug 19 10:32:03 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 12:32:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question on interior fitting
In-Reply-To: <CC0674B201B64CA3B590C6058CC5CB9F@userb38463fba5>
References: <BLU0-SMTP9044B6A99FB8BACF31E30CA42A0@phx.gbl><EED2E26FE05C47BD844F63F7194491C8@BobPC>
	<CC0674B201B64CA3B590C6058CC5CB9F@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <47F6009EBE0042AF96537CEF80C671AD@DCH6RFC1>

Sorry to bomb the list, but some time ago, I asked for the name of someone
who would fit the interior (carpets, panels) on my 250.  Someone (I cannot
remember who) gave me the name of an individual in Ohio with whom they had
had a good experience.  Unfortunately I have lost the information.

If you could get back to me, or if anyone has a recommendation for someone
in Michigan / Ohio, please contact me off-list.  Thanks in advance,

Andrew Uprichard

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Fri Aug 19 11:23:26 2011
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 10:23:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Anyone going to the Triathlon?
Message-ID: <1313774606.7893.YahooMailNeo@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

We're off tomorrow for a week in Maine, culminating with The British Marque
Triathlon beginning Friday the 26th in Northport.  Anyone from the list going
to be there?  
 
Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CR18928U
5-speed

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Aug 19 12:30:41 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 14:30:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anyone going to the Triathlon?
In-Reply-To: <1313774606.7893.YahooMailNeo@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1313774606.7893.YahooMailNeo@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B3F5863F6B024DDCA6C4F5DAA2B0DD46@BobPC>

Nope but hope to see you in Stowe at The British Invasion.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Joe Merone
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 1:23 PM
To: Triumph List ; 6 Pack list
Subject: [TR] Anyone going to the Triathlon?

We're off tomorrow for a week in Maine, culminating with The British Marque
Triathlon beginning Friday the 26th in Northport.  Anyone from the list 
going
to be there?

Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CR18928U
5-speed


triumphs at autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 20 06:24:51 2011
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 05:24:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Odd Email
Message-ID: <1313843091.44189.YahooMailNeo@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Did anyone else receive an odd email saying that team.net had received a
request to remove them from the list??
 
The text of the msg I received is
below.  I certainly didn't request to be removed.
 
Chad in Tulsa
 
------------------------------------
 
Mailing list removal confirmation
notice for mailing list Triumphs

We have received a request from 71.225.34.87
for the removal of your
email address, "triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com" from the
triumphs at autox.team.net mailing list.  To confirm that you want to be
removed
from this mailing list, simply reply to this message, keeping
the Subject:
header intact.  Or visit this web page:

   
http://autox.team.net/mailman/confirm/triumphs/91cf99ab9c2adccabda3131e11d2b0
abc775d527


Or include the following line -- and only the following line --
in a
message to triumphs-request at autox.team.net:

    confirm
91cf99ab9c2adccabda3131e11d2b0abc775d527

Note that simply sending a `reply'
to this message should work from
most mail readers, since that usually leaves
the Subject: line in the
right form (additional "Re:" text in the Subject: is
okay).

If you do not wish to be removed from this list, please simply
disregard this message.  If you think you are being maliciously
removed from
the list, or have any other questions, send them to
triumphs-owner at autox.team.net.

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat Aug 20 06:47:50 2011
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 12:47:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Odd Email
In-Reply-To: <1313843091.44189.YahooMailNeo@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <755957408.227094.1313844470479.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I have not received such a message. 
Tom 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chad" <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 8:24:51 AM 
Subject: [TR] Odd Email 

Did anyone else receive an odd email saying that team.net had received a 
request to remove them from the list?? 

The text of the msg I received is 
below. I certainly didn't request to be removed. 

Chad in Tulsa 

------------------------------------ 

Mailing list removal confirmation 
notice for mailing list Triumphs 

We have received a request from 71.225.34.87 
for the removal of your 
email address, "triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com" from the 
triumphs at autox.team.net mailing list. To confirm that you want to be 
removed 
from this mailing list, simply reply to this message, keeping 
the Subject: 
header intact. Or visit this web page: 


http://autox.team.net/mailman/confirm/triumphs/91cf99ab9c2adccabda3131e11d2b0 
abc775d527 


Or include the following line -- and only the following line -- 
in a 
message to triumphs-request at autox.team.net: 

confirm 
91cf99ab9c2adccabda3131e11d2b0abc775d527 

Note that simply sending a `reply' 
to this message should work from 
most mail readers, since that usually leaves 
the Subject: line in the 
right form (additional "Re:" text in the Subject: is 
okay). 

If you do not wish to be removed from this list, please simply 
disregard this message. If you think you are being maliciously 
removed from 
the list, or have any other questions, send them to 

From lee at automate-it.com  Sat Aug 20 09:49:29 2011
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 10:49:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] "One Day" (the movie) - with a Triumph!
In-Reply-To: <1313245352.15420.yint-ygo-j2me@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1313245352.15420.yint-ygo-j2me@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0a1ffb551a681969d1f1206f8561b61e.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

The new movie "One Day" got a great review in our local paper. But what really
got my attention was the page-wide photo of the protagonists in a Triumph
(Herald, I think?). Front view, with the "T R I U M P H" badge front and
center:

  http://tinyurl.com/42xnqcq

It sounds like it's worth seeing, but I would probably see it just for the
Triumph content.

  Lee

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Sat Aug 20 11:45:55 2011
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 17:45:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] SMOC
Message-ID: <1686277673-1313862356-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1310553898-@b17.c19.bise6.blackberry>

Twice a year our church offers free of charge to any single mother a free oil change.  We top off all fluids. Air up the tires. Change filter and oil.  While the men change the oil the women are providing councilling to those who may need someone to talk too. Our youth clean out the cars and provide child care. Our older men serve as drivers and runners.  
Today we set a new record. In four hours we changed 206 vehicles. Beating our previous record of 187.  I have seen how this small gesture provides a little hope to many who feel hopeless. Well today my oil change partner was my daughter and her friend. I thought her how to fill oil and read a dip stick.  How kool is that.  It was a great day. 
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

From m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca  Sat Aug 20 12:38:47 2011
From: m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca (Mo and Dave MacKay)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 14:38:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Follow-up re: "Have I ruined the flywheel on my TR3A?"
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP68CE8881724301CE1905FFA42D0@phx.gbl>

I received many helpful replies to my posting about my TR3A's flywheel (see
below). I thought that I should provide a summary to the list.

 

In a nutshell, the centre hole in the TR3A's flywheel (that the nose of the
gearbox's input shaft goes through) was too small to fit on the machinist's
balancing equipment. So he made it bigger by about a half an inch so that it
would fit on his machine. He then balanced the unit and gave it back to me.
The machinist thought that enlarging the hole was no big deal since the
pilot bearings (of modern cars) are held in place in the crankshaft by an
interference fit.

 

The advice I got from list members is that it is, in fact, a big deal. The
hole in a TR3A's flywheel is sized to be smaller than the pilot bearing
(actually a bronze bushing) so that the pilot bearing can't move past the
flywheel towards the transmission. Now that the hole has been enlarged it's
too big to do that. 

 

In general, the feedback was that my flywheel was spoiled, and that I should
replace it. However, a few workarounds were suggested:

   - milling a shoulder onto the flywheel and then machining a custom pilot
bearing that would fit into that shoulder

   - machine and affix a spacer (like a washer) for the flywheel to return
the hole to its original size

   - cut another bushing (or make a new, longer pilot bearing) to "take up
the slack" between the pilot bearing and the end of the transmission's input
shaft

   - use a TR6 flywheel and ring gear (with the bevel flipped) instead

 

I ended up expanding the pilot bearing (by dimpling it with a punch) and
hammering it carefully into the crankshaft. I'm relying on an interference
fit keeping it in place. I recognize that this isn't a good long-term fix. 

 

I'm now on the hunt for a TR3A flywheel (there are 3 different types for the
4 cylinder TRs). I need the kind used by TR3A (post 50,000), TR3B, and TR4
(not TR4A); it has a bolt on ring gear and is used with the later starter
and a spring-type clutch cover. After get a suitable flywheel, I'll
eliminate the bodge. 

 

Thanks for the advice and assistance.

 

Dave MacKay

TR3A s/n 68639L

near Toronto, Canada

 

>I'm replacing the gearbox in my TR3A with a Toyota W58 transmission, using
the HVDA conversion kit. The HVDA kit requires that one use a TR6 (Borg &
Beck) pressure plate >instead of the usual TR3A pressure plate. The TR6
pressure plate doesn't fit into the holes used by the TR3A pressure plate;
new mounting and dowel holes must be drilled. 

> 

>I took my old flywheel along with the new pressure plate etc. down to a
machinist to have him:

>   1) true the flywheel 

>   2) drill new holes and mount the new pressure plate to the flywheel

>   3) balance the resulting unit

>Everything went well until step #3.

> 

>The centre hole in the flywheel (the one that the gearbox's input shaft
goes through) was too small to fit on the machinist's balancing equipment.
So he made it bigger by about a half >an inch so that it would fit on his
machine. He then balanced the unit and gave it back to me.

> 

>Has enlarging the centre hole ruined the flywheel? Or is it no big deal (as
the machinist claims)? If it is a problem, and since the flywheels are NLA,
how could I fix this?

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sat Aug 20 14:35:04 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 15:35:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Engine LIves!!!  Then not so much..
Message-ID: <EA09C736-8A32-49F9-9C64-8C95F28A8E36@genfiniti.com>

All,

First, the good news.  I got my rebuilt engine all ready for its first
start-up, built up roughly 30 psi of oil pressure, made some initial
adjustments to the SU HS6 carbs, and it STARTED!!
I was so surprised by the quick success that I almost panicked!!

I let it idle very roughly around 500 rpm before I went to adjust the idle
screw on carb one, which killed it.
Needless to say, I am very happy for this, as it is a great start.
But then my great happy feelings became not so much..

Here's my issues/questions.  I am hoping the collective wisdom of the groups
can help:

1. To get the engine to start I had to set the carbs thusly: mixture nuts all
the way lean (jet even with the floor of the chamber), throttle idle screws
1/2 turn open and fast idle screws not touching the cam at all.  Even with
this super-lean configuration, the plugs for cylinders 1 and 2 were
carbon-covered indicating RICHNESS???  I just don't see how this is possible.
Can anyone shed some light on the unique circumstances that have to exist to
have this seemingly counterintuitive result?  Perhaps the spark is super
weak?

2. After running the engine at rough idle for about five minutes, I went to
try and restart it, but had no luck.  Eventually I pulled the plugs
(discovering the carbon on one and two) to build up oil pressure again and did
not get the 30 psi I got before running the engine; now the best I get is
roughly 12 psi.  This alarms me greatly, as my inexperienced suspicion says
that something changed in the engine while it was running, because I've got no
oil leaking anywhere, and a full sump.  Has anyone had this experience and can
share it with me?

3. Finally, the damned engine shakes like a disco king with Parkinson's
disease.  I've got the round-styled engine mounts.  Should I go to the square?
Or just tighten mine down more?  Would that shaking cause problems?  Is that
shaking a sign of a problem?


That is all.  Thanks to everyone for all their help through the life of the
project, as I could not have gotten this far without it.
>From the big picture stand-point, I am near the end of doing all I can at
home.  Once I get the engine running well, and the reupholstered seats back in
the car, I am taking it to an experience pro for the final setup, as there are
just some things I do not have the tools for, or for safety sake, just want
more experience hands.

That is of course unless I get really angry at it and set it on fire..



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From darrellw at ipns.com  Sat Aug 20 15:19:22 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 14:19:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Engine LIves!!!  Then not so much..
In-Reply-To: <EA09C736-8A32-49F9-9C64-8C95F28A8E36@genfiniti.com>
References: <EA09C736-8A32-49F9-9C64-8C95F28A8E36@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <FF67F846-AE6F-45DD-9F71-8565A461FAEF@ipns.com>

Hi Guy,

Did you do anything to the carbs while the engine was begin worked on?  It
takes quite a bit to be too rich to run, so I think there is something else
going on.  Are the pistons going all the way down?

On the oil pressure, what state is your battery in?  It could be that you
aren't cranking it very fast any more.

I wouldn't worry about the shaking until you get it running better, if you are
missing on a cylinder or two I wouldn't expect it to be running to very
smooth.

What do the plugs from the rear cylinders look like?  More than once I messed
around thinking one carb was the problem when it was really the other.

-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat Aug 20 17:21:58 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 19:21:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Valve Cover Question
Message-ID: <005f01cc5f8f$f552fb40$dff8f1c0$@rr.com>

Ok,

The good news is that I found the early TR4 valve cover without the brass
center plug.  The bad news is way back in time someone bent the oil filler
tube about 45 degrees to the front.  The cover it self is in very good,
straight condition.  This looks like it should be able to be fixed.  Rather
than me hitting it with  a hammer from inside, anyone have a recommendation
on what kind of shop could fix this or who?  These darn things are hard to
find and it deserves to be brought back to life.  Also, thanks for the
earlier post on the paintable chrome process from Jay Leno's Garage.  I
found a shop in town that uses the same process and am going to try it out!

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen 

Maitland, FL

62 TR4 CT5212LO "Simon"

75 TR6 "Miss Molly"

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sat Aug 20 17:55:52 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 19:55:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] "One Day" (the movie) - with a Triumph!
In-Reply-To: <0a1ffb551a681969d1f1206f8561b61e.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
References: <1313245352.15420.yint-ygo-j2me@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<0a1ffb551a681969d1f1206f8561b61e.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <8CE2DABD3A40232-13B8-60E5A@webmail-d168.sysops.aol.com>

 It's a Vitesse! :)



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Daniels <lee at automate-it.com>


The new movie "One Day" got a great review in our local paper. But what
really
got my attention was the page-wide photo of the protagonists in a Triumph
(Herald, I think?). Front view, with the "T R I U M P H" badge front and
center:

  http://tinyurl.com/42xnqcq

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Aug 20 19:13:04 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 20:13:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] SMOC
In-Reply-To: <1686277673-1313862356-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1310553898-@b17.c19.bise6.blackberry>
References: <1686277673-1313862356-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1310553898-@b17.c19.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <4CFCCB4CC9C94F2A8611EDA87ECB2482@bboffice>

Very kool, congratulation on a wonderful service project.
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rbtr3a at cox.net
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 12:46 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] SMOC

Twice a year our church offers free of charge to any single mother a free
oil change.  We top off all fluids. Air up the tires. Change filter and oil.
While the men change the oil the women are providing councilling to those
who may need someone to talk too. Our youth clean out the cars and provide
child care. Our older men serve as drivers and runners.  
Today we set a new record. In four hours we changed 206 vehicles. Beating
our previous record of 187.  I have seen how this small gesture provides a
little hope to many who feel hopeless. Well today my oil change partner was
my daughter and her friend. I thought her how to fill oil and read a dip
stick.  How kool is that.  It was a great day. 
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Aug 21 02:04:20 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 04:04:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] An electrical question to the list and an offer
In-Reply-To: <9E3A244763844675A0C60D87FDEDD663@Meislaptop>
References: <293978433.4523352.1313187270510.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>
	<201108130809.08290.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<9E3A244763844675A0C60D87FDEDD663@Meislaptop>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAANyPCnThG99GlnJ4CiWK8OMBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

Does anyone know a source for 'how to add the ground in the socket'?  I
couldn't find it at Buckeye...
Thanks
Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 12:26 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] An electrical question to the list and an offer

> There was a Ebay vendor that sold new improved sockets with a separate 
> ground for each socket but he informs me he is out of stock.

FWIW, the new sockets I got from both TRF and Rimmers were of the new design
(with the separate ground terminal).  Much better design IMO, but the new
ground wire is required.  They don't ground at all through the clip (as the
old ones did).

I think the Buckeye Triumphs site has a tech article on how to solder the
ground within the original sockets.  On my Stag, I actually had to add a
short length of wire to bridge the gap!

-- Randall


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 21 07:20:45 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 06:20:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] SMOC
Message-ID: <1313932845.22752.YahooMailNeo@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List! 
I don't know what 'SMOC' stands for, but this is a GREAT idea. 
How
do you know what oil filters to have on stock? 
 
Do these women state what
cars that they are bring in a week BEFORE this event, so you have the correct
one in stock? Do these women give a deposit for the oil & Filter? 
Do you
return the 'deposit' when they show up & keep it if they don't show up until
you return the leftover items?
 
Yes, it's great that you get you daughter
involved & educate her on the basic mechanics of the car.
This could be a
great event for the Boy/Girl Scouts, or another charitable org. 
-Cosmo
Kramer

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sun Aug 21 09:36:52 2011
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 11:36:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] SMOC
In-Reply-To: <1313932845.22752.YahooMailNeo@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1313932845.22752.YahooMailNeo@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000401cc6018$262a26c0$727e7440$@charter.net>

Sounds like a great idea that could be done in conjunction with a NAPA or
other brand of parts store. The store could offer low cost on the supplies
and be open on the day of the event.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 9:21 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] SMOC

Hi List! 
I don't know what 'SMOC' stands for, but this is a GREAT idea. 
How
do you know what oil filters to have on stock? 
 
Do these women state what
cars that they are bring in a week BEFORE this event, so you have the
correct one in stock? Do these women give a deposit for the oil & Filter? 
Do you
return the 'deposit' when they show up & keep it if they don't show up until
you return the leftover items?
 
Yes, it's great that you get you daughter involved & educate her on the
basic mechanics of the car.
This could be a
great event for the Boy/Girl Scouts, or another charitable org. 
-Cosmo
Kramer


triumphs at autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 21 10:24:38 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 09:24:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] An electrical question to the list and an offer
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAANyPCnThG99GlnJ4CiWK8OMBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <293978433.4523352.1313187270510.JavaMail.root@vznit170070><201108130809.08290.yellowtr@adelphia.net><9E3A244763844675A0C60D87FDEDD663@Meislaptop>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAANyPCnThG99GlnJ4CiWK8OMBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <341a01cc601e$d2d2af90$0301a8c0@randall>

> Does anyone know a source for 'how to add the ground in the 
> socket'?  I
> couldn't find it at Buckeye...

Here is the Buckeye article I was referring to, on how to repair the ground
within the original sockets:
http://fwd4.me/09YV

I don't know of an article on how to install the new style sockets (with the
separate ground terminal), but it shouldn't be too difficult to figure out.
On the Stag, there is already a ground wire to the fixture, which was easy
enough to modify so it ran to the 3 individual bulb holders.  But if the TR6
doesn't have a ground wire, then just add one that daisy-chains all the bulb
holders and then runs to a good body ground.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 21 10:34:53 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 09:34:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Engine LIves!!!  Then not so much..
In-Reply-To: <EA09C736-8A32-49F9-9C64-8C95F28A8E36@genfiniti.com>
References: <EA09C736-8A32-49F9-9C64-8C95F28A8E36@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <341b01cc6020$41b56a50$0301a8c0@randall>

> Even with
> this super-lean configuration, the plugs for cylinders 1 and 2 were
> carbon-covered indicating RICHNESS??? 

There are several possibilities, but my first thought would be fuel level in
the float bowl too high (so fuel is running out of the jet and down the carb
throat); caused perhaps by crud caught in the float valve, a failed float
(ISTR original HS6 floats were not ethanol-resistant), or fuel pressure too
high.

> not get the 30 psi I got before running the engine; now the 
> best I get is
> roughly 12 psi.

Did you check the oil for fuel contamination?  Is it possible the battery is
somewhat discharged now (from your previous efforts) and hence does not spin
the engine as fast?

> 3. Finally, the damned engine shakes like a disco king with 
> Parkinson's
> disease. 

Most likely indicates that it is only running on two cylinders.  At any
rate, the motor mounts are not intended to deal with that kind of vibration,
so I would work on getting it running properly first (valves, mixture,
timing, carb balance, etc) before worrying about the mounts.

-- Randall  

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Aug 21 15:55:27 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 17:55:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Recall of Brake Master Cylinders
In-Reply-To: <20110821.113045.967.1222029@mailpop01.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20110821.113045.967.1222029@mailpop01.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAF2zhyDuDzRHm8W/oSLPzmABAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

FYI - Just In case



Notification of A Voluntary Recall of Brake Master Cylinders

This voluntary recall applies ONLY to the brake master cylinders listed
below:


Item

Description & Application


180-791

Brake Master Cylinder for Nash Metropolitan
Clutch Master Cylinder for MGA Twin Cam and MGA MK II Deluxe


513-319

Brake Master Cylinder for Austin Healey BN7, BT7, BJ7 (Cars without a brake
servo)
Clutch Master Cylinder for Austin Healey BN4 from CE 48863, BN6, BN7, BT7,
BJ7, BJ8 without a brake servo


581-101

Austin Healey 3000s (BN7, BT7, BJ7, BJ8) with power brakes.


581-011

Triumph TR3 from TS13046 through TR 3B


581-032

Triumph TR4 from CT5784 on and TR4A. (Girling brake system)


581-512

Brake Master Cylinder on Austin Healey BN4 to CE 48862.
Clutch Master Cylinder on Triumph TR4-4A.

The Moss Technical Services department has determined that between
approximately March 1, 2010 and February 1, 2011, we received, and sold
brake master cylinders from a single manufacturer under the brand name
Classic Gold (with one exception) with an internal design element that may
fail in use. Specifically at issue is the foot valve. Although no one had
reported a foot valve failure in an installed master cylinder, it had been
suggested that because the foot valve design differed from an original
Girling design, it was suspect. There are many different foot valve designs,
so the difference in appearance or design is not, in and of itself, a cause
for concern. However, the manufacturer of the master cylinder did not have
test data on this particular valve. We suspended sales and arranged for the
brake master cylinders to be tested according to SAE standards by an
independent automotive testing laboratory to determine if there was a risk
of foot valve failure in use.

Foot valve failures were experienced during the extreme pressure test at
3,000 psi and after 10,000 cycles at 248: F during a heat durability test.
The pressures and temperatures used in the tests far exceed the pressure and
temperatures you would experience with the master cylinder installed in a
car, but the failure of a foot valve is serious because it closes off the
port to the brake fluid reservoir when you step on the brake pedal. If the
foot valve fails to close, the pedal will go to the floor without putting
any pressure on the brake shoes or pads. In other words,

Your brakes could fail, with the potential for serious injury.

Moss is therefore voluntarily recalling the brake master cylinders listed
above because they share this particular foot valve design.

Sincerely,

Michael Grant
Product Manager, Moss Motors Ltd.



____________________________________________________________
Get Free Email with Video Mail
<http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210> & Video Chat!

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 21 18:45:08 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 17:45:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Follow-up re: "Have I ruined the flywheel on my TR3A?"
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP68CE8881724301CE1905FFA42D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP68CE8881724301CE1905FFA42D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <34c601cc6064$be4d8810$0301a8c0@randall>

I'm a bit late to this discussion; but IMO your workaround should be fine as
a long-term fix.  Once the transmission has been installed, the pilot
bearing is trapped by the gearbox input shaft.  It might drift fore/aft a
bit more (when/if the interference fit comes loose), but I do not believe
that will harm anything as long as at least part of the bearing remains
within the crankshaft.  I've been running a TR6 gearbox for about 15 years
that only engages the pilot bearing about half as much as the original TR3
box did, and I've never had any problems with it.

I'm also puzzled as to why you are looking for a flywheel that has to be
modified (again), rather than using a TR4A flywheel (which is already
drilled for the TR6 clutch).

But I've got several later 3A flywheels available if you don't find one
closer to home (or decide to use a 4A instead).

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 21 19:04:32 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 18:04:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3B Head Replacement (John Walker)
In-Reply-To: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E870A2C2E6851@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
References: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E870A2C2E6851@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
Message-ID: <34cd01cc6067$744998a0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Clearly Randall's experience on two separate motors, with 
> uneven liners, shows
> this to be a robust repair. I am surprised though that it 
> doesn't impair the
> sealing of the gasket around the nearby coolant ports.

A few points that may explain why I've never had any trouble with coolant
leaks at the head gasket:

1) The coolant is under far less pressure (and temperature) than the
combustion chamber.

2) The wire size (which BTW was 26 AWG, not 20) is only a few thousandths
thicker than the folded copper layer that it is next to.  

3) The composite head gasket compresses quite a bit when installed.  Just
the measured difference between new and used is around .010-.015", but I
believe it compresses further when clamped (and springs back when removed).
Those fine thread studs and 100 ft-lb's of torque provide a LOT of clamping
force.

-- Randall  

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 21 20:31:44 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 19:31:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] dragging emails to folders
Message-ID: <1313980304.96945.YahooMailNeo@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Listers

I've always been able to drag the tech emails I want to keep over to
the left and into a folder there.  Lately I've found I cannot do that any
longer.  I have deleted some of the messages from those files thinking I need
to make room for more but that has not helped.

any suggestions?

gary n.

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Aug 21 22:27:32 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 22:27:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] Back from VTR2011
Message-ID: <1542E350-794D-487B-AB0C-240E76A6F665@comcast.net>

One of my shorter trips.  Driving time about 2 hours and 30 minutes.   
Drove 373 miles, which included Fun Tour, Funkhana, TSD, Autocross,  
Car Show.  Used about 14 gallons of gas...averaged 26.9 mpg.

I had fun, hope all that attended did too.

Thanks to all those on the list that were volunteers at the convention  
and the events and a special thanks to Marty Sukey and Jack MaGahey  
who spent a lot of time designing an autocross course for us even  
though they couldn't attend.

Cheers
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Aug 21 22:29:30 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 22:29:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Back from VTR2011
Message-ID: <100454B3-F8AE-4E33-B71E-EC488F60AAF8@comcast.net>

One of my shorter trips.  Driving time about 2 hours and 30 minutes.   
Drove 373 miles, which included Fun Tour, Funkhana, TSD, Autocross,  
Car Show.  Used about 14 gallons of gas...averaged 26.9 mpg.

I had fun, hope all that attended did too.

Thanks to all those on the list that were volunteers at the convention  
and the events and a special thanks to Marty Sukey and Jack MaGahey  
who spent a lot of time designing an autocross course for us even  
though they couldn't attend.

Cheers


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Aug 21 22:41:44 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 21:41:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Back from VTR2011
In-Reply-To: <1542E350-794D-487B-AB0C-240E76A6F665@comcast.net>
References: <1542E350-794D-487B-AB0C-240E76A6F665@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0DA5D20985FA4E06BC5D5FB57C7FBD1C@Vista>

I got home at 7:30 this evening after driving straight through for 14 hours.
Not something I want to do routinely but I had a great time (despite someone
stealing my navigator)  :)

Joe

P.S. I haven't figured out my mileage in my tow vehicle but I figure it was
somewhere around 10 mpg.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 9:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Back from VTR2011

One of my shorter trips.  Driving time about 2 hours and 30 minutes.   
Drove 373 miles, which included Fun Tour, Funkhana, TSD, Autocross,  
Car Show.  Used about 14 gallons of gas...averaged 26.9 mpg.

I had fun, hope all that attended did too.

Thanks to all those on the list that were volunteers at the convention  
and the events and a special thanks to Marty Sukey and Jack MaGahey  
who spent a lot of time designing an autocross course for us even  
though they couldn't attend.

Cheers
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 22 05:53:53 2011
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 06:53:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] dragging emails to folders
In-Reply-To: <1313980304.96945.YahooMailNeo@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <1313980304.96945.YahooMailNeo@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W312BFFD2B45374B5C7C02FE12F0@phx.gbl>

I think before anyone will be able to answer your question we will need to
know what email application you are using?i.e.  are you using yahoo web mail
or outlook local to your computer.

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

 > Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 19:31:44 -0700
> From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] dragging emails to folders
>
> Listers
>
> I've always been able to drag the tech emails I want to keep over to
> the left and into a folder there.  Lately I've found I cannot do that any
> longer.  I have deleted some of the messages from those files thinking I
need
> to make room for more but that has not helped.
>
> any suggestions?
>
> gary n.
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Mon Aug 22 08:28:19 2011
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:28:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] SMOC explained.
Message-ID: <112741453-1314023297-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1459909657-@b17.c19.bise6.blackberry>

I've had several people email me questions regarding the SMOC.  So I thought I would try to detail it. We do this twice a year and i t was totally free.  We occupy the front parking lot.  We stock all the filters.  
How it works. 
Time 8-12 noon. 

On the opposite side of the church a patron pull up to a registration tent. Fill out some paper work. They then go inside the gym where they are greeted with snacks coffee etc, if children are accompany, they are a able to go play with other children while being supervised by our youth.  The mother is teamed with a female member from our church and they are council ed. 

Their car is then driven across to the Que line where it is then advanced to the first station. Here the male youth remove all trash and check the air in tires, fill as needed. Then the car is advanced to the station 2 where the make, model is looked up and an oil filter is placed with a check list.  Now an older/senior male will now advance the car to the Que awaiting an available oil change station. When available the car is pulled up on ramps, the clip board and filter is given to a team member and the oil change is performed to include all fluid levels. Once the change is complete the runner/drivers are summoned and the car is returned to the owner.  

The stations; volunteers bring their own ramps pans and tools. They are arranged  side by side skipping one parking slot.  Between each station in the open slot  a stack of oil is placed along with the other fluids, rags and cleaner.  A 55gl barrel is placed between every 4 stations for collection. The filters are drained boxed and baged.  Oil absorbing mat is placed under each car for comfort and absorbition of any spilled oil.  After all cars are complete the residual oil, filters and rage are disposed by an oil reclaimer. The come and pump the barrels and take the filters and rags.  

All cars receive 10w30 and we purchase  it through Sams Club. The filter are  purchased in bulk and a deep discount is given by the provider. 

A couple of times a year the oil can is passed through the SS classes asking members to sponsor an oil change. A sponsorship is 25 dollars 
As you can see this ministry relies on a total inclusion of age groups and genders. Providing everyone an opportunity to participate. 

Oh I for got the one important participant. The water boy.  One of our older gentleman rides up and down the line offering cold beverages. Man it was hot.  

Earlier this year members of the Georgia Triumph association and our local british car club helped and participated in the effort.   
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 22 11:37:08 2011
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 12:37:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] SMOC explained.
In-Reply-To: <112741453-1314023297-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1459909657-@b17.c19.bise6.blackberry>
References: <112741453-1314023297-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1459909657-@b17.c19.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W4770058C72B6EFF66E9019E12F0@phx.gbl>

This sounds like a neat idea.
I would like to know how you determin what types of oil filters you have on
hand?

Also what do the letters SMOC stand for?

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Mon Aug 22 16:09:17 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 18:09:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] SMOC explained.
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W4770058C72B6EFF66E9019E12F0@phx.gbl>
References: <112741453-1314023297-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1459909657-@b17.c19.bise6.blackberry>
	<SNT123-W4770058C72B6EFF66E9019E12F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOc9Q2zFEfkKNMX6CLg6TmQnS+24ydsmRrcKMtkbnxSTg@mail.gmail.com>

single mother oil change?

On Mon, Aug 22, 2011 at 1:37 PM, Rich White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> wrote:

> This sounds like a neat idea.
> I would like to know how you determin what types of oil filters you have on
> hand?
>
> Also what do the letters SMOC stand for?
>
> Rich White Central, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF###L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Aug 22 16:23:29 2011
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 18:23:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Back from VTR2011
Message-ID: <7218f.75e6fc87.3b8430e1@aol.com>

Hey Bud,
Just got back as well.  3177 miles including the day trip to Rocky  
Mountain National Park.  13.7 mpg on the Hybrid Durango.  The 250 is  still atop 
the trailer.  Oh it only had time to do the fun rallye and some  running 
around in Breckinridge.  I also want to tell you that the air is  MUCH better 
here at 1265' above sea level. 
Darrell
 
 
In a message dated 8/22/2011 12:36:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
levilevi at comcast.net writes:

One of  my shorter trips.  Driving time about 2 hours and 30 minutes.    
Drove 373 miles, which included Fun Tour, Funkhana, TSD, Autocross,   
Car Show.  Used about 14 gallons of gas...averaged 26.9  mpg

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 22 18:01:36 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 17:01:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] dragging emails to folders
Message-ID: <1314057696.25838.YahooMailNeo@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I'm using yahoo mail and have always been able to drag tech emails into
folders for safe keeping but can't any longer.  Just wondering if anyone else
has had the same problem.

gary n.

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Mon Aug 22 18:39:40 2011
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 17:39:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
Message-ID: <3AE92B81-674B-45CE-8CCC-542023C4BDE8@roadrunner.com>

Hi List gurus,

I am about to convert my  1962 TR3A Perculator oil filter to a spin-on  
using the Moss adapter. In one of the earlier List mail some one  
mentioned that during a trip the bolt that mounts the adapter broke  
off and consequently nearly lost all  his oil. Is this a potential  
problem with this adapter --  should I take any special precautions?

Hans,

  1962 TR3A

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Mon Aug 22 20:17:00 2011
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 19:17:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeNCPJwvTY0jEwymGt+ve13oRQzwYKscaS0GB17wOanptg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3AE92B81-674B-45CE-8CCC-542023C4BDE8@roadrunner.com>
	<CANhzkeNCPJwvTY0jEwymGt+ve13oRQzwYKscaS0GB17wOanptg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <24F68E72-D872-4C2D-9A3D-00402B4571B4@roadrunner.com>

On Aug 22, 2011, at 5:59 PM, Chris Simo wrote:

> my issue has been the bolt that holds the adaptor in place wants to  
> turn when I remove the filter.

That  occurred to me -- I was thinking using a lock washer

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Mon Aug 22 20:22:13 2011
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 19:22:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
In-Reply-To: <1094773859-1314063686-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-597170139-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
References: <1094773859-1314063686-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-597170139-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <1CD8EE27-A8EF-4C3C-B1BB-E04D9D95051A@roadrunner.com>

On Aug 22, 2011, at 6:41 PM, dlylis at gmail.com wrote:

>
When I remounted mine I used a torque wrench and went up in degrees to  
know I was not over tightening


Good point! How much torque is suggested?

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug 22 20:29:02 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 22:29:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Seen: White TR6
Message-ID: <1e90c.14372219.3b846a6e@cs.com>

So I was decending the Pike's Peak Highway (about the 13,000 foot level) 
when what should I spy with my little eye coming the other way?  A nice white 
TR6 with a hardtop.  Are you on the list?  Did you enjoy Breckenridge?

Dave (back after some 2500 miles round trip)

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Mon Aug 22 23:05:10 2011
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 22:05:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
References: <1CD8EE27-A8EF-4C3C-B1BB-E04D9D95051A@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <D7F3D5FF-7120-4336-A6E6-55A39CC7DCCA@roadrunner.com>

Just found a Moss pdf with installation instructions not to exceed 12  
LbsFt (635-828_Oil_Filter_Adaptor_TR3_4A_instructions-1.pdf)
Thanks
Hans

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com>
> Date: August 22, 2011 7:22:13 PM PDT
> To: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
>
> On Aug 22, 2011, at 6:41 PM, dlylis at gmail.com wrote:
>
>>
> When I remounted mine I used a torque wrench and went up in degrees to
> know I was not over tightening
>
>
> Good point! How much torque is suggested?
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com

From Terry.Hickey at team.telstra.com  Mon Aug 22 23:48:32 2011
From: Terry.Hickey at team.telstra.com (Hickey, Terry)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 15:48:32 +1000
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
In-Reply-To: <D7F3D5FF-7120-4336-A6E6-55A39CC7DCCA@roadrunner.com>
References: <1CD8EE27-A8EF-4C3C-B1BB-E04D9D95051A@roadrunner.com>
	<D7F3D5FF-7120-4336-A6E6-55A39CC7DCCA@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <64473EF1F0A54842864852B4173F10FE23829AE209@WSMSG3154V.srv.dir.telstra.com>

Maybe loctite would be suitable


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Hans de Ferrante
Sent: Tuesday, 23 August 2011 3:05 PM
To: Triumphs List; dlylis at gmail.com
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?

Just found a Moss pdf with installation instructions not to exceed 12
LbsFt (635-828_Oil_Filter_Adaptor_TR3_4A_instructions-1.pdf)
Thanks
Hans

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com>
> Date: August 22, 2011 7:22:13 PM PDT
> To: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
>
> On Aug 22, 2011, at 6:41 PM, dlylis at gmail.com wrote:
>
>>
> When I remounted mine I used a torque wrench and went up in degrees to
> know I was not over tightening
>
>
> Good point! How much torque is suggested?
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terry.hickey at team.telstra.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Aug 23 12:32:25 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 14:32:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] COLORADO   TRIUMPH FAMILY McGuire
Message-ID: <8CE2FDA2379F143-824-13FEC@webmail-m039.sysops.aol.com>

Returned to IOWA last night from Colorado.

Sunday afternoon we encountered the MCGUIRE FAMILY having late lunch on an
obscure part of Colorado Highway #24.

When I saw FOUR TR3s together I knew it was them. What a family!

A piece of pie with them and we were on the road again.

Joe A.

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Aug 23 13:40:02 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 12:40:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] COLORADO   TRIUMPH FAMILY McGuire
In-Reply-To: <8CE2FDA2379F143-824-13FEC@webmail-m039.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE2FDA2379F143-824-13FEC@webmail-m039.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7D9D766F4E92483B8CA98491B8F2ECD3@Vista>

That family took away a sizeable amount of the available VTR hardware.  I am
amazed they were able to cart it all home!  :)

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 11:32 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] COLORADO TRIUMPH FAMILY McGuire

Returned to IOWA last night from Colorado.

Sunday afternoon we encountered the MCGUIRE FAMILY having late lunch on an
obscure part of Colorado Highway #24.

When I saw FOUR TR3s together I knew it was them. What a family!

A piece of pie with them and we were on the road again.

Joe A.


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Aug 23 14:19:22 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 14:19:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] COLORADO   TRIUMPH FAMILY McGuire
In-Reply-To: <7D9D766F4E92483B8CA98491B8F2ECD3@Vista>
References: <8CE2FDA2379F143-824-13FEC@webmail-m039.sysops.aol.com>
	<7D9D766F4E92483B8CA98491B8F2ECD3@Vista>
Message-ID: <F59BF0FB-EB88-48C1-B3CB-4C962D8D2A6A@comcast.net>

No kidding.  Good thing they were headed downhill.

Chuck McGuire won the Charles Macartney Driver Award amongst their  
many other awards.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Aug 23, 2011, at 1:40 PM, Joe Curry wrote:

> That family took away a sizeable amount of the available VTR  
> hardware.  I am
> amazed they were able to cart it all home!  :)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 11:32 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] COLORADO TRIUMPH FAMILY McGuire
>
> Returned to IOWA last night from Colorado.
>
> Sunday afternoon we encountered the MCGUIRE FAMILY having late lunch  
> on an
> obscure part of Colorado Highway #24.
>
> When I saw FOUR TR3s together I knew it was them. What a family!
>
> A piece of pie with them and we were on the road again.
>
> Joe A.
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Aug 23 14:41:45 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 21:41:45 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] COLORADO   TRIUMPH FAMILY McGuire
In-Reply-To: <F59BF0FB-EB88-48C1-B3CB-4C962D8D2A6A@comcast.net>
References: <8CE2FDA2379F143-824-13FEC@webmail-m039.sysops.aol.com>
	<7D9D766F4E92483B8CA98491B8F2ECD3@Vista>
	<F59BF0FB-EB88-48C1-B3CB-4C962D8D2A6A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1314132105.81149.YahooMailNeo@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Bud Rolofson wrote:
Chuck McGuire won the Charles Macartney Driver Award
amongst their  
many other awards.

Has anyone by any chance got a picture of
the winning car they'd be willing to send to me, please? Sometimes I get one,
most times I don't. 
 
Jonmac

From andygraybeal at earthlink.net  Tue Aug 23 15:17:18 2011
From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 14:17:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR6
Message-ID: <1519CBCB-8582-44D4-86BF-95855A6EB2AE@earthlink.net>

Howdy Californians
Looking for a TR6 that is presentable (not concours) and mechanically
reasonably sound. Should be in the Los Angeles area or the SF Bay
area. Hopefully it can be had for under $10K. My son is returning to
the TR fold and figures such a car would suit his daily driving
needs.  Should I head him off? :-)

Andy Graybeal


Andy Graybeal
Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
http://www.triumphtravelers.org/Index.php
andy.graybeal at gmail.com
650.968.6877

o?<

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Aug 23 15:50:40 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 21:50:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
In-Reply-To: <3AE92B81-674B-45CE-8CCC-542023C4BDE8@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <1343956179.618338.1314136240870.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I am about to convert my  1962 TR3A Perculator oil filter to a spin-on  
>using the Moss adapter. In one of the earlier List mail some one  
>mentioned that during a trip the bolt that mounts the adapter broke  
>off and consequently nearly lost all  his oil. Is this a potential  
>problem with this adapter --  should I take any special precautions?

Hans,

This was one of the most dependable mods I made to my '59 TR3A.  I haven't heard of a problem like you describe being anything like a systemic failure, but perhaps the adapter you're talking about is different than the one I bought some 8 years ago.  Have driven hard for over 50k miles now, no issues.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Aug 23 17:07:22 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 19:07:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
In-Reply-To: <64473EF1F0A54842864852B4173F10FE23829AE209@WSMSG3154V.srv.dir.telstra.com>
References: <1CD8EE27-A8EF-4C3C-B1BB-E04D9D95051A@roadrunner.com>
	<D7F3D5FF-7120-4336-A6E6-55A39CC7DCCA@roadrunner.com>
	<64473EF1F0A54842864852B4173F10FE23829AE209@WSMSG3154V.srv.dir.telstra.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOa2Cj2YMGEnFGf=B9Zak0DTUts+m5T=PH5isQwbYdNHg@mail.gmail.com>

I used blue loctite on mine and torqued it down. Tightened the filter hand
tight and upon next filter change the adapter spun.

I had a suggestion to use the copper sealant on the adapter to purolater
fitting from someone who had the same issue.

Any other solutions out there?

From mdporter at dfn.com  Tue Aug 23 17:25:16 2011
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 17:25:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOa2Cj2YMGEnFGf=B9Zak0DTUts+m5T=PH5isQwbYdNHg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1CD8EE27-A8EF-4C3C-B1BB-E04D9D95051A@roadrunner.com>
	<D7F3D5FF-7120-4336-A6E6-55A39CC7DCCA@roadrunner.com>
	<64473EF1F0A54842864852B4173F10FE23829AE209@WSMSG3154V.srv.dir.telstra.com>
	<CANhzkeOa2Cj2YMGEnFGf=B9Zak0DTUts+m5T=PH5isQwbYdNHg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E5436DC.2090503@dfn.com>

On 8/23/2011 5:07 PM, Chris Simo wrote:
> I used blue loctite on mine and torqued it down. Tightened the filter hand
> tight and upon next filter change the adapter spun.
>
> I had a suggestion to use the copper sealant on the adapter to purolater
> fitting from someone who had the same issue.
>
> Any other solutions out there?
>
>
>

As far as bolt breakage and leakage, these events likely have to do with 
the fact that the adapters can't be exactly matched to the mounting 
surface of the block.  In the case of the spin-on adapters for use with 
six-cylinder blocks (and I suspect there are similar issues with the 
wet-sleeve engines), the adapter can't compensate for varying depths of 
the seal land in the block.  Let's say that the outer land of the 
adapter can't fully engage the seal in the block land because it's not 
deep enough.  The inner land will butt up against the block, and no 
amount of torque on the retaining bolt will prevent the outer seal from 
leaking, thus encouraging the installer to overtorque the bolt.

Conversely, if the block land is too shallow, the outer seal will be 
over-compressed trying to get the inner seal to contact both the block 
and the adapter, possibly damaging the outer seal and if the inner seal 
doesn't contact both block and adapter, unfiltered oil mixes freely with 
filtered oil, thus negating the usefulness of the filter.

Because of these production variations on the block side, the adapter 
has to be matched to the block or to the existing right-angle filter 
adapter, and that requires, in most cases, some machining.  If the 
adapter leaks (apart from casting flaws), or the retaining bolt breaks, 
or the adapter does not remain in position, one can be fairly certain 
that there's a geometry mismatch somewhere, and it's advisable to let a 
machinist examine the parts and fit them to each other if one can't do 
the work at home.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue Aug 23 17:40:15 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 16:40:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOa2Cj2YMGEnFGf=B9Zak0DTUts+m5T=PH5isQwbYdNHg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1CD8EE27-A8EF-4C3C-B1BB-E04D9D95051A@roadrunner.com>
	<D7F3D5FF-7120-4336-A6E6-55A39CC7DCCA@roadrunner.com>
	<64473EF1F0A54842864852B4173F10FE23829AE209@WSMSG3154V.srv.dir.telstra.com>
	<CANhzkeOa2Cj2YMGEnFGf=B9Zak0DTUts+m5T=PH5isQwbYdNHg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <40CFA2DB-1D9A-418C-BBCA-28A5A4AB801A@comcast.net>

This is very confusing ... the adaptor is Bolted to the engine ... how could
it possibly spin???

I have the adaptors on both the TR3 and TR6, and have never had any problems,
no leaks, works fine, easier to use ...

'tis a puzzlement ...



On Aug 23, 2011, at 4:07 PM, Chris Simo wrote:

> I used blue loctite on mine and torqued it down. Tightened the filter hand
> tight and upon next filter change the adapter spun.
>
> I had a suggestion to use the copper sealant on the adapter to purolater
> fitting from someone who had the same issue.
>
> Any other solutions out there?
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net

"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA
Casper
1957 TR3
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Aug 23 18:04:10 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 20:04:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TRIUMPH FAMILies  McGuire  &   Bob Johns
In-Reply-To: <7D9D766F4E92483B8CA98491B8F2ECD3@Vista>
References: <8CE2FDA2379F143-824-13FEC@webmail-m039.sysops.aol.com>
	<7D9D766F4E92483B8CA98491B8F2ECD3@Vista>
Message-ID: <8CE30087C1308A9-1114-9F6ED@webmail-m152.sysops.aol.com>

Robert Johns and Chuck McGuire were both in Germany within months of each
other and running up and down the autobahn in their TR3s.

Chuck had a bigger load which had a wife and baby tucked in the right seat,
and then came home to race at Greenwood and Road America.

Robert raced for the Triumph factory for a period, including Sebring with Mike
Rothschild, then went on to a career at Ford as an engineer and manager.
Robert and Jean made an appearance at VTR, if you missed them.

Great Triumph history surrounds us.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Remember we have the 60th ANNIVERSARY OF THE FIRST SPORTS TRIUMPH comining up
next April at Road Atlanta.   It will also be the 10th running of the Kastner
Cup presented by the Friends of Triumph  and Classic Motorsports. Be there.

Joe A


-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
To: n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Aug 23, 2011 2:38 pm
Subject: RE: [TR] COLORADO   TRIUMPH FAMILY McGuire



That family took away a sizeable amount of the available VTR hardware.  I am
amazed they were able to cart it all home!  :)

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 11:32 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] COLORADO TRIUMPH FAMILY McGuire

Returned to IOWA last night from Colorado.

Sunday afternoon we encountered the MCGUIRE FAMILY having late lunch on an
obscure part of Colorado Highway #24.

When I saw FOUR TR3s together I knew it was them. What a family!

A piece of pie with them and we were on the road again.

Joe A.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 23 18:10:07 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 17:10:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
In-Reply-To: <40CFA2DB-1D9A-418C-BBCA-28A5A4AB801A@comcast.net>
References: <1CD8EE27-A8EF-4C3C-B1BB-E04D9D95051A@roadrunner.com>
	<D7F3D5FF-7120-4336-A6E6-55A39CC7DCCA@roadrunner.com>
	<64473EF1F0A54842864852B4173F10FE23829AE209@WSMSG3154V.srv.dir.telstra.com>
	<CANhzkeOa2Cj2YMGEnFGf=B9Zak0DTUts+m5T=PH5isQwbYdNHg@mail.gmail.com>
	<40CFA2DB-1D9A-418C-BBCA-28A5A4AB801A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1a6101cc61f2$2f122540$8d366fc0$@rr.com>

> This is very confusing ... the adaptor is Bolted to the engine ... how
> could
> it possibly spin???

Assuming the design is the same as I have on my TR3 & TR3A, the spin-on
adapter is held to the original filter head by only a center stud and nut.
The spin-on filter screws onto the same stud which has different threads on
each end to match both the filter head and the spin-on filter.  Thus if the
threads in the filter bind just a little bit, the stud can unscrew from the
filter head when removing the filter.

Regular Loctite does not stick to oily surfaces, and weakens over time when
exposed to heat & oil.  So my suggestion if you are having problems is to
clean the threads thoroughly with solvent (spray carb cleaner or similar)
and then use medium strength oil-resistant Loctite on the stud where it
threads into the filter head.  Sorry I don't recall the part number offhand,
but it's available from MMC.

However, I was able to get enough torque on the nut that locks the adapter
in place to keep the stud & adapter from turning; without the use of
Loctite.  Don't go overboard though, as the stud is rather weak (due to its
hollow design) and can be broken with enough torque.

-- Randall

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Aug 23 18:14:22 2011
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 20:14:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
In-Reply-To: <40CFA2DB-1D9A-418C-BBCA-28A5A4AB801A@comcast.net>
References: <1CD8EE27-A8EF-4C3C-B1BB-E04D9D95051A@roadrunner.com>
	<D7F3D5FF-7120-4336-A6E6-55A39CC7DCCA@roadrunner.com>
	<64473EF1F0A54842864852B4173F10FE23829AE209@WSMSG3154V.srv.dir.telstra.com>
	<CANhzkeOa2Cj2YMGEnFGf=B9Zak0DTUts+m5T=PH5isQwbYdNHg@mail.gmail.com>
	<40CFA2DB-1D9A-418C-BBCA-28A5A4AB801A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002001cc61f2$c6b19b10$5414d130$@charter.net>

We installed an adapter sourced from TRF on our TR-6 10 years ago. No leaks,
no problems. I just installed a Fram 3600 element (I think that was the
number) and due to its length, I had to loosen and re-angle the adapter to
gain sufficient clearance for the filter. After tightening until four
fingers clicked (a wrist clicking would have been too much), the adapter is
reseated and does not leak.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Pugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 7:40 PM
To: Chris Simo
Cc: Triumphs List
Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?

This is very confusing ... the adaptor is Bolted to the engine ... how could
it possibly spin???

I have the adaptors on both the TR3 and TR6, and have never had any
problems, no leaks, works fine, easier to use ...

'tis a puzzlement ...



On Aug 23, 2011, at 4:07 PM, Chris Simo wrote:

> I used blue loctite on mine and torqued it down. Tightened the filter 
> hand tight and upon next filter change the adapter spun.
>
> I had a suggestion to use the copper sealant on the adapter to 
> purolater fitting from someone who had the same issue.
>
> Any other solutions out there?
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net

"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA
Casper
1957 TR3
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Tue Aug 23 20:35:30 2011
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 22:35:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] engine tuning
Message-ID: <84020A7E-1DBC-4996-AAEF-10092EB0A1B8@verizon.net>

List,
It's been a while since I have posted anything.  Mostly trying to make a final
push to get the car on the road.  True to form, the more I do the further
behind I get. Hoped to be driving by the summer (three years ago actually).  A
recap of events:
  Fixed most of the engine issues , so I thought, and planned to drive the car
to the muffler shop to get a piece of pipe welded between the headers and the
exhaust.  Car running a little rough, but would work on that after i finished
the exhaust.  Took a dry run to the petrol station to fill the tank and test
the waters. Pretty excited that the car was doing well.  On the way back
started losing power and barely made it back. Troubleshooting revealed fuel
filters packed with rust.  Apparently sitting around for years wasn't kind to
the tank.  OK, removed the tank.  Had a radiator shop clean it out.  Couldn't
find any one to seal the tank so I did it myself (only to have someone tell me
that sealers don't work and should have bought a new tank- too late). Put the
tank back in , blew out the gas line, had the carbs cleaned, put in new gas
and got it running again.  Tried another short test run but car ran poorly,
made awful noises, started leaking oil, choke cable (new replacement part)
bound up.  Had to walk away at that point, couldn't take another set back.
  So now I'm back at it but still pretty discouraged.  New choke cable has
been replaced and trying to tune the engine but it won't run unless  the choke
is all the way out even after it's warmed. Here's my question: any suggestions
as to where to start, what to do next? Futile question?  Buy a trailer and
haul it around?
Gary O
reassembling the TR one mistake at a time
62 TR4
electric fuel pump
ZS carbs

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Aug 23 21:54:21 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 22:54:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] engine tuning
In-Reply-To: <84020A7E-1DBC-4996-AAEF-10092EB0A1B8@verizon.net>
References: <84020A7E-1DBC-4996-AAEF-10092EB0A1B8@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <03E52CFB638E4368B2E67623A3410D74@bboffice>

Gary,
Sounds like it almost has to be in the fuel system.  I would suggest
checking everything from the tank forward again.  Did you run the fuel pump
with the line disconnected at the carbs?  You said you cleaned the carbs but
it is very easy when you have such a sludge problem that some trash has
gotten back in.  If the fuel lines are running clean, I would go back and
disassemble/reassemble the carbs.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary O'Hagan
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 9:36 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] engine tuning

List,
It's been a while since I have posted anything.  Mostly trying to make a
final push to get the car on the road.  True to form, the more I do the
further behind I get. Hoped to be driving by the summer (three years ago
actually).  A recap of events:
  Fixed most of the engine issues , so I thought, and planned to drive the
car to the muffler shop to get a piece of pipe welded between the headers
and the exhaust.  Car running a little rough, but would work on that after i
finished the exhaust.  Took a dry run to the petrol station to fill the tank
and test the waters. Pretty excited that the car was doing well.  On the way
back started losing power and barely made it back. Troubleshooting revealed
fuel filters packed with rust.  Apparently sitting around for years wasn't
kind to the tank.  OK, removed the tank.  Had a radiator shop clean it out.
Couldn't find any one to seal the tank so I did it myself (only to have
someone tell me that sealers don't work and should have bought a new tank-
too late). Put the tank back in , blew out the gas line, had the carbs
cleaned, put in new gas and got it running again.  Tried another short test
run but car ran poorly, made awful noises, started leaking oil, choke cable
(new replacement part) bound up.  Had to walk away at that point, couldn't
take another set back.
  So now I'm back at it but still pretty discouraged.  New choke cable has
been replaced and trying to tune the engine but it won't run unless  the
choke is all the way out even after it's warmed. Here's my question: any
suggestions as to where to start, what to do next? Futile question?  Buy a
trailer and haul it around?
Gary O
reassembling the TR one mistake at a time
62 TR4
electric fuel pump
ZS carbs


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug 24 06:05:03 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 08:05:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR6
In-Reply-To: <1519CBCB-8582-44D4-86BF-95855A6EB2AE@earthlink.net>
References: <1519CBCB-8582-44D4-86BF-95855A6EB2AE@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <201108240805.04221.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday, August 23, 2011 05:17:18 pm Andy Graybeal wrote:
> Howdy Californians
> Looking for a TR6 that is presentable (not concours) and mechanically
> reasonably sound. Should be in the Los Angeles area or the SF Bay
> area. Hopefully it can be had for under $10K. My son is returning to
> the TR fold and figures such a car would suit his daily driving
> needs.  Should I head him off? :-)
> 
> Andy Graybeal
> 
> 
> Andy Graybeal
> Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
> http://www.triumphtravelers.org/Index.php
> andy.graybeal at gmail.com
> 650.968.6877
> 
Andy,

Cant help you here with the car as I am in NY but dont head him off!

I finally completed the restoration of my 72 6 a few weeks ago and now have 
about 100 miles on the clock. I can say it is a real nice ride. The exhaust 
note is more of a roar when compared to my 3 and 4. Real noticeable on the 
down shift.

If he really wants a Triumph and he is willing to learn the cars, I would say 
let him. We need a new generation to take over the hobby.

Bob

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Aug 24 10:02:34 2011
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 12:02:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] engine tuning
Message-ID: <7aa8e.76908e69.3b867a9a@aol.com>

Gary,
 
I think you may have two unrelated events!  It sounds like you solved  the 
fuel delivery issue but now you've got another gremlin or two to deal with - 
 not unusual when you're trying to get a car back on the road.
 
For your own sanity, I think I'd remove the fuel line at the carbs, attach  
a short rubber fuel line with one end in a good container, have a helper 
turn  the ignition on (you mentioned that you have an electric pump) while you 
observe  the flow of fuel.  If you're satisfied that the flow is good and 
you're  confident that the carbs were cleaned, the pistons are rising and 
falling  okay, the float valves aren't sticking then move on to some next  
steps.....one of which may need to be a compression check.  If even one of  the 
cylinders has noticeably low compression, the motor will not sound right and 
 will not run well.
 
Where did the engine suddenly begin to leak oil?  I don't think that  that 
issue and the binding choke cable are connected to the fuel delivery  
problem...maybe more related to the engine coming back to life??
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/23/2011 10:38:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
goh62agan at verizon.net writes:

Tried  another short test run but car ran poorly,
made awful noises, started  leaking oil, choke cable (new replacement part)
bound up.  

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Wed Aug 24 11:27:24 2011
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 10:27:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] engine tuning
Message-ID: <CF929FE9-AA35-4263-92A8-9CD1EF822F5A@roadrunner.com>

Gary
I had the the  same  experience when trying to bring my TR3 rebuilt  
engine to life...Turned out the counter locking nut on one of the  
exhaust valve push rods was not tightened properly, which caused it to  
slip out of its rocker arm socket, got bent, and thus failed to open  
the exhaust valve.

>  Tried another short test run but car ran poorly,
> made awful noises, started leaking oil, choke cable (new replacement  
> part)
> bound up.  Had to walk away at that point, couldn't take another set  
> back.
> So now I'm back at it but still pretty discouraged.
>
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com

From andygraybeal at earthlink.net  Wed Aug 24 15:17:08 2011
From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 14:17:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR6
Message-ID: <C73C9750-7324-48A6-9486-DCE6FADD507C@earthlink.net>

Thanks for the encouragement, Bob. He did a nice, if not by the book
restoration of my 4 some 25 years ago so he is familiar with the breed.

Andy


Andy Graybeal
Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
http://www.triumphtravelers.org/Index.php
andy.graybeal at gmail.com
650.968.6877

o?<

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Aug 24 15:40:46 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 21:40:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] engine tuning
In-Reply-To: <84020A7E-1DBC-4996-AAEF-10092EB0A1B8@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <1324367890.671848.1314222046065.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Tried another short test run but car ran poorly,
>made awful noises, started leaking oil, choke cable (new replacement part)
>bound up.  Had to walk away at that point, couldn't take another set back.
  
Gary, I guess I'm curious about what shape the engine was in when you started?  Did you rebuild it?  If not, any idea how much wear on it?  Just asking because it might help troubleshooting potential gremlins.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Aug 24 15:41:49 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 21:41:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Transmission Tunnel
Message-ID: <428721726.671920.1314222109039.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Not for me.  Someone who watches the List asked how to source a transmission tunnel.  Anyone want to post some suggestions?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed Aug 24 15:55:23 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 17:55:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Transmission Tunnel
In-Reply-To: <428721726.671920.1314222109039.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <428721726.671920.1314222109039.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMbqUSdQ8xkeqD+LQzNd6hppYWxFmmgknoij101gBCk1Q@mail.gmail.com>

i have one that is in less than pristine condition.  it has some rust and
was "modified  to install on a tr4.....

was afraid the tr2 hump was going to need help - turns out all that oil
splashing around kept it looking nearly brand new.

you have first dibbs but anyone can have it for shipping cost.....

On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 5:41 PM, <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

> Not for me.  Someone who watches the List asked how to source a
> transmission tunnel.  Anyone want to post some suggestions?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com  Wed Aug 24 15:55:24 2011
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (Triumph)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 17:55:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
In-Reply-To: <1a6101cc61f2$2f122540$8d366fc0$@rr.com>
References: <1CD8EE27-A8EF-4C3C-B1BB-E04D9D95051A@roadrunner.com><D7F3D5FF-7120-4336-A6E6-55A39CC7DCCA@roadrunner.com><64473EF1F0A54842864852B4173F10FE23829AE209@WSMSG3154V.srv.dir.telstra.com><CANhzkeOa2Cj2YMGEnFGf=B9Zak0DTUts+m5T=PH5isQwbYdNHg@mail.gmail.com><40CFA2DB-1D9A-418C-BBCA-28A5A4AB801A@comcast.net>
	<1a6101cc61f2$2f122540$8d366fc0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <914617173DE9446E8426EB18BC4D740B@zora>

--------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?

I had a similar problem with mine. I made my own adapter and found that the 
first time I tried to remove the filter the entire adapter spun because the 
spin-on filter gasket stuck to the adapter the same as it does on a "normal" 
car. When the adapter spun, so did the adapter bolt. I solved mine by 
drilling and tapping a hole on the inside of the adapter facing the filter 
head and putting a short bolt there that would butt up against a depression 
inside the filter head thus preventing it from turning. I didn't tap the 
hole all the way so the bolt would go in part way and then attempt to cut 
its own threads as I tightened it and thus be self locking, I hope. So far 
it has been that way about 3 years.

Bob Maassel
59 TR3A 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Aug 24 16:18:07 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 22:18:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
In-Reply-To: <914617173DE9446E8426EB18BC4D740B@zora>
Message-ID: <1498152677.673159.1314224287988.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I had a similar problem with mine. I made my own adapter and found that the 
>first time I tried to remove the filter the entire adapter spun because the 
>spin-on filter gasket stuck to the adapter the same as it does on a "normal" 
car. When the adapter spun, so did the adapter bolt. 

Just curious and so a general question.  I'd always believed that when installing a fresh filter cartridge, one used some of the old oil to lubricate the rubber o-ring sealer, then tightening just one full turn, maybe turn and a half.  Might not doing this account for the behavior we've seen posted?  Dunno, just asking....

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 24 16:31:22 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 15:31:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] dash vinyl appl.
Message-ID: <1314225082.50479.YahooMailNeo@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Working on covering dash with vinyl (tr-3) and just looking for tips.  I want
no wrinkles to show at all and with all the dips and curves as well as all the
openings to cut and fit around i'm skeptical of my skills.  I understand the
basics of cutting with enough over lap to stick with glue.  I also assume the
glue must be applied to both surfaces and then allowed to dry before the vinyl
is stuck down to the steel.  But:

Can you move the vinyl around on the steel
after sticking it down or does it stick hard and solid upon laying down and
not allow any adjustment?

Can a person use a hair dryer to stretch the vinyl
and make it more pliable, or does the heat from the dryer affect the glue and
"stickiness"?

I'm afraid of having the vinly stick solid with wrinkles that I
will find unable to remove or work with.  Is this a valid concern?

Thanks for
any suggestions.

gary n.

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Aug 24 17:34:30 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 18:34:30 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Oil Filter Adapter - Pot. Problem?
Message-ID: <541231295.5121453.1314228870813.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

Always worked for me.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6


Aug 24, 2011 06:23:48 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

>I had a similar problem with mine. I made my own adapter and found that the 
>first time I tried to remove the filter the entire adapter spun because the 
>spin-on filter gasket stuck to the adapter the same as it does on a "normal" 
car. When the adapter spun, so did the adapter bolt. 

Just curious and so a general question. I'd always believed that when installing a fresh filter cartridge, one used some of the old oil to lubricate the rubber o-ring sealer, then tightening just one full turn, maybe turn and a half. Might not doing this account for the behavior we've seen posted? Dunno, just asking....

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire


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From elliottr at rmi.net  Wed Aug 24 20:35:18 2011
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 21:35:18 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] TR250 Stromberg plug
Message-ID: <5352064.1314239719180.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi Everyone,

When we were leaving Breckenridge after the VTR, the mi wife's 250 was running very poorly.  We discovered that a plug in the rear carb was missing.  The front carb has a port on top that goes to the distributor - not sure if it is vacuum or retard.  The rear carb has the same hole, but there was nothing in it.  It must have fallen out somehow.

I tried a pipe threaded plug that was close but not right (I don't remember the size).  So we ended up using a rubber plug in the hole.

Does anyone know what size of plug I would need?  Is it something I can find at a hardware store?  I could not find the part at any of the usual places.

Thanks,
Roger Elliott

From elliottr at rmi.net  Wed Aug 24 20:53:48 2011
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 21:53:48 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Alternator, Charging and Ammeter
Message-ID: <7253085.1314240828396.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi Everyone,

We have been having alternator problems, well actually it turns out to be charging problems.  We are on our third alternator in a month, and decided (and determined) it has to be something besides the alternator.  

The ignition light comes on and goes off when we rev up the engine.  But, the only way the alternator charges the battery is by hooking a wire directly from the alternator to the battery.    The ammeter does not show anything (charge or discharge) even before we added the wire, so I thought the ammeter might be an open circuit, but after reading Dan Master's book, I have the understanding that nothing would work if the alternator is shot.  

We do have a battery cut-off switch that I have wondered if it is hooked up correctly, on the other hand it has been on the car for 10 years without causing a problem.

Any suggestions on what to check on why the battery is not getting charged, even though the alternator is capable of doing it?

Thanks for the help.

Roger

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 24 21:16:43 2011
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 22:16:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] off topic - static decals
Message-ID: <SNT123-W42A9F51305B59BDAC61F06E1100@phx.gbl>

Please forgive me for this off topic question. I know someone on this list has
made static decals, so the knowledge I need is here. We are trading my son's
car and he wants to move his college decal to the new car.I took it off and
now it dose not want to stick.Is there a way to make it stick again?

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Aug 24 22:05:23 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 21:05:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] off topic - static decals
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W42A9F51305B59BDAC61F06E1100@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT123-W42A9F51305B59BDAC61F06E1100@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7C8104DEDD5A4F3D82C7D84C0F83E26D@Vista>

Clean the new surface thoroughly and lick (or otherwise moisten) the surface
of the decal that goes against the glass.  Squeegee the moisture out from
under the decal using a credit card.

Joe (who makes the list decals as well as other assorted goodies)


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 8:17 PM
To: TR owners List
Subject: [TR] off topic - static decals

Please forgive me for this off topic question. I know someone on this list
has
made static decals, so the knowledge I need is here. We are trading my son's
car and he wants to move his college decal to the new car.I took it off and
now it dose not want to stick.Is there a way to make it stick again?

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 24 22:39:58 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 21:39:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Alternator, Charging and Ammeter
In-Reply-To: <7253085.1314240828396.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <7253085.1314240828396.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <39fa01cc62e1$0be6f1f0$0301a8c0@randall>

>   The ammeter does not show anything (charge or 
> discharge) even before we added the wire,

Something wrong there; it should show a slight discharge while the red light
is on; or a heavy discharge if you turn on the headlights with the engine
not running.  Sounds like there is some wiring problem.

> Any suggestions on what to check on why the battery is not 
> getting charged, even though the alternator is capable of doing it?

I would start by running the engine at a fast idle, and checking the voltage
along the charging circuit.  Start right at the alternator (output post to
case), so you know what it is putting out.  Then check between the
alternator case & battery ground terminal; then between the alternator
output and battery hot terminal.  You should see only a few tenths of a volt
difference.  Whichever lead shows a large difference contains the problem.

Beyond that will depend on which car you have, and what changes were made
(if any) when adding the cutoff switch.  A racing-type cutoff switch has
provisions to disable the alternator (so the engine will stop running if the
switch is turned off).

-- Randall  

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Aug 25 00:22:55 2011
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 23:22:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Alternator, Charging and Ammeter
In-Reply-To: <39fa01cc62e1$0be6f1f0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <7253085.1314240828396.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<39fa01cc62e1$0be6f1f0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <4E55EA3F.9010801@gmail.com>

On 8/24/11 9:39 PM, Randall wrote:
>>    The ammeter does not show anything (charge or
>> discharge) even before we added the wire,
>>      
> Something wrong there; it should show a slight discharge while the red light
> is on; or a heavy discharge if you turn on the headlights with the engine
> not running.  Sounds like there is some wiring problem.
>    
I have discovered in the past that you can not always rely upon a metal 
bodied alternator bolted to a metal bracket bolted to the engine to be a 
reliable ground path for an alternator.  The alternator would test good 
in the shop, mounted it and it seemed to work well for a few miles then 
stop charging with the red light not on or maybe the dimmest of glows.  
I went through  half a dozen alternators, replaced all the associated 
wiring all to no avail.  Finally I ran a wire from the Ground lug on the 
back of the alternator and the frame and gosh gee everything worked and 
still does to this day.

Who would have thought a metal to metal to metal connection would not be 
a reliable ground?  I always wondered why they put a ground lug on 
alternator cases.  Anyway, if you know you have your wiring correct, add 
a ground wire directly to the alternator case and see what happens.

Teriann

From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Thu Aug 25 02:12:52 2011
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 09:12:52 +0100
Subject: [TR] re dash vinyl appl.
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A20EEDF58@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

Gary - There is a version of the Bostick contact adhesive that allows
adjustment time, otherwise it works on the same principle as the normal coat
both surfaces and bring together type. If memory serves (not guaranteed ) it
is in a yellow rather than red tin. The usual rule of working from the centre
out is worth remembering. Be careful with the hairdryer, if the vinyl gets to
hot it will actually start to shrink instead of becoming more pliable, I would
recommend a warm day or a warm garage.
Good luck
John
1954 TR2 (last of the long doors)

John Gillis
(Senior Conservator)
Library Conservation TCD
Electronic mail to, from or within College may be the subject of a request
under the Freedom of Information Act

From geomurphy at windstream.net  Thu Aug 25 03:48:04 2011
From: geomurphy at windstream.net (George)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 05:48:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3 Alternator Conversion Kit
Message-ID: <000001cc630c$17734750$4659d5f0$@net>

I have been trying to find a good source for a generator to alternator kit
for my tr3a.  I ordered one from Triumph Rescue yesterday that is supposed
to have the alternator, belt, hardware and easy to follow instructions for
$175.  During the conversation on the phone with Triumph Rescue, he informed
me that the alternator that he was sending was a 1 wire setup.  He said his
customers had no problem with the one (1) wire set up and that they do not
offer the 3 wire alternator.  I have read that the 3 wire type is a better
choice but I do not know why.  Has anyone had any experience with either
type and what would you recommend?  He told me that If I was dissatisfied in
any way after receiving the unit I could return it with no problem.  George
M. 60 tr3a, 



_______________________________________
No infections found in this outgoing message
Scanned by iolo System Shield.
http://www.iolo.com

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Thu Aug 25 05:13:57 2011
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 07:13:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR250 Stromberg plug
Message-ID: <380-22011842511135715@earthlink.net>

If the carbs are original to the TR250, the forward carb is tapped on top for the vacuum advance. The rear carb has a threaded hole up top in the same place, but the hole should never have been drilled all the way through to the venturi for the vacuum signal. Are you sure you are getting a leak there?

Cheers, Tom

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Aug 25 06:15:46 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 08:15:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] re dash vinyl appl.
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A20EEDF58@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A20EEDF58@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAGFF08ueIG9LhdfSssysgq0BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

Gary - As others have said - use a contact adhesive with some adjustment
time.  Center out is good - but I would recommend starting with the section
between the center hole and cubby box.  In other words leave the large flat
section (speed/tach side) to last.   Don't over cut out the panel/cubby
holes - leave lots of extra and cut/slice the fold-overs fairly small -
especially where you are working around the corners.   The drier can be used
to warm it up but - unless you are in the far north - just lay it outside in
the sun first to get it extremely pliable - and somewhat stretchable.   Work
slowly.   Don't apply the adhesive on the whole dash at once - about 6-8" at
a time.  Spray on worked real good for me (I think it was 3M) as you can
lift up the 'junction' and apply more - let it flash off a bit and away you
go again.    

About cutting the corner cutting/slicing - Do not cut all the way to the
panel; stop just a little more than the thickness of the panel away so that
when you fold it over the slice is completely behind the panel.   I was told
that if you cut it 'short' - with time the slice may split due to shrinkage
and be visible on the facing.   Try to cut at 90degrees to the edge you are
folding over.   On outside corners this means that the flap is \  / shape;
inside corners /  \; trimming off any overlap.  

When cutting out the center panel and cubby hole - be sure that the cut is
completely rounded - don't have any   \_ type corners and definitely don't
have any \-- overcuts.  When you stretch the vinyl to shape - it will
tear/split - perhaps too much to compensate for.

The outside corners where the dash is visible when the doors are open can
also be a bear to stretch/shape.   Be sure to leave ample material to go
over the front 'edge' and reach to the back edge before folding over.   The
cut/slice can't come around from the back as it will be visible when the
door is open.   

Did I say work slowly...  don't be impatient.  

The alternative is to pay $100-125 and have an upholstery shop to do it.
If I had ruined the second attempt - that was my next step.   I had extra
vinyl but if you only have the one piece that will fit the dash you may want
to seriously consider this alternative.   Matching vinyl is nearly
impossible.  

Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 4:13 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] re dash vinyl appl.

Gary - There is a version of the Bostick contact adhesive that allows
adjustment time, otherwise it works on the same principle as the normal coat
both surfaces and bring together type. If memory serves (not guaranteed ) it
is in a yellow rather than red tin. The usual rule of working from the
centre out is worth remembering. Be careful with the hairdryer, if the vinyl
gets to hot it will actually start to shrink instead of becoming more
pliable, I would recommend a warm day or a warm garage.
Good luck
John
1954 TR2 (last of the long doors)

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Aug 25 06:22:35 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 08:22:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] off topic - static decals
In-Reply-To: <7C8104DEDD5A4F3D82C7D84C0F83E26D@Vista>
References: <SNT123-W42A9F51305B59BDAC61F06E1100@phx.gbl>
	<7C8104DEDD5A4F3D82C7D84C0F83E26D@Vista>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAABu0+zLNpxFCjpSxlot7KX0BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

Someone had suggested (a long time ago - maybe15 years)using a mixture of
vinegar and water as the moistening agent; it is evidently a
thinner/smaller/moreslippery liquid which allows the decal to adhere better.
It also evaporates faster.   I haven't tried it in some time and haven't
tried both(mixture vs plain water) to see the difference.   But it is
something that stuck in my mind....

Carl



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 12:05 AM
To: 'Rich White'; 'TR owners List'
Subject: Re: [TR] off topic - static decals

Clean the new surface thoroughly and lick (or otherwise moisten) the surface
of the decal that goes against the glass.  Squeegee the moisture out from
under the decal using a credit card.

Joe (who makes the list decals as well as other assorted goodies)


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 8:17 PM
To: TR owners List
Subject: [TR] off topic - static decals

Please forgive me for this off topic question. I know someone on this list
has made static decals, so the knowledge I need is here. We are trading my
son's car and he wants to move his college decal to the new car.I took it
off and now it dose not want to stick.Is there a way to make it stick again?

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Aug 25 07:53:37 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 09:53:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tenax pegs - TR3
Message-ID: <000001cc632e$657f0390$307d0ab0$@net>

Found something I didn't check when I was very early in the project.

The chrome windshield frame for the TR3 has 10 Tenax pegs - 10-32 threading.
The two outermost holes on the frame I had re-chromed in 2001 (yes 2001) are
stripped.  In fact there is no threading in the hole at all.

What is the fix?

I can't really braze/re-drill/tap as that would ruin the chrome.

I also don't want to be a DPO and super-glue them.

Can I use something like JB-Weld then re-drill/tap or would that simply pull
out since there really isn't anything for it to grip to.

Or, are there replacement pegs with a larger (12-28) fastener that would
allow for re-tapping the hole?  

There are sleeves available with 'x' inside thread and 'y' outer.  But I am
not sure how small or what combinations might be available.  I will be near
Fastenal this afternoon and I will look into that.

There is also the option of replacing them with the aluminum windshield type
tenax peg but that would require drilling all the way through the frame and
having something visible on the inside.  (not particularly my #1 solution -
more like last resort)

Any suggestions greatly appreciated..

Carl

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Aug 25 08:20:10 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 10:20:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tenax pegs - TR3
In-Reply-To: <000001cc632e$657f0390$307d0ab0$@net>
References: <000001cc632e$657f0390$307d0ab0$@net>
Message-ID: <201108251020.12119.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday, August 25, 2011 09:53:37 am Carl TR wrote:
> Found something I didn't check when I was very early in the project.
> 
> The chrome windshield frame for the TR3 has 10 Tenax pegs - 10-32
> threading. The two outermost holes on the frame I had re-chromed in 2001
> (yes 2001) are stripped.  In fact there is no threading in the hole at
> all.
> 
> What is the fix?
> 
> I can't really braze/re-drill/tap as that would ruin the chrome.
> 
> I also don't want to be a DPO and super-glue them.
> 
> Can I use something like JB-Weld then re-drill/tap or would that simply
> pull out since there really isn't anything for it to grip to.
> 
> Or, are there replacement pegs with a larger (12-28) fastener that would
> allow for re-tapping the hole?
> 
> There are sleeves available with 'x' inside thread and 'y' outer.  But I am
> not sure how small or what combinations might be available.  I will be near
> Fastenal this afternoon and I will look into that.
> 
> There is also the option of replacing them with the aluminum windshield
> type tenax peg but that would require drilling all the way through the
> frame and having something visible on the inside.  (not particularly my #1
> solution - more like last resort)
> 
> Any suggestions greatly appreciated..
> 
> Carl
> 
Carl,

I had the same problem about 3 years ago with the left most peg. I just glued 
it back in with JB weld and the peg still holds. Not rethreaded, just applied 
the mixture and pressed it in and let it harden.

Bob

From mbarre at juno.com  Thu Aug 25 09:33:06 2011
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 15:33:06 GMT
Subject: [TR] TR3A Transmission Tunnel
Message-ID: <20110825.113306.8964.2@webmail52.vgs.untd.com>

I am looking for one too.
This one IS for me!

My tunnel is pretty rusted along the bottom edge.
I suppose I could spend a full day with the mig welder, but have other fish to
fry.

Proximity to Georgia would be nice but I do get around!

Matt Barre
mbarre at juno.com


---------- Original Message ----------
From: terryrs at comcast.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A Transmission Tunnel
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 21:41:49 +0000 (UTC)

Not for me.  Someone who watches the List asked how to source a transmission
tunnel.  Anyone want to post some suggestions?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 25 09:51:55 2011
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 10:51:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3 Alternator Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <000001cc630c$17734750$4659d5f0$@net>
References: <000001cc630c$17734750$4659d5f0$@net>
Message-ID: <BAY150-W633FAF2AC5CCFEEE3B0B4AB9100@phx.gbl>

George-

Someone else on the list may correct me, but I believe with the one wire setup
you will lose the ability to have the generator/alternator light - so if there
is a charging failure you won't get anything on the dashboard to let you
know.

A common alternator people have used, and what I have on my TR4 is a Delco
10si alternator - that typically gives you the '3 wire' capability to use the
warning light.

The 10si alternator is a fairly tight fit on a TR3A, but I know people have
used them - for my 3A project however, I'm using a much smaller NipponDenso
alternator - you can get a 3 wire, 40 amp alternator which works well.  The
only complication I had was the alternator was set up for a thin fan belt - I
had a friend with a lathe modify an original pulley for use with the Denso
version (same 15 mm shaft) so I can use a thick belt if I wish.

Regards,
Randy
64 TR4
59 TR3A


> From: geomurphy at windstream.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 05:48:04 -0400
> Subject: [TR] tr3 Alternator Conversion Kit
>
> I have been trying to find a good source for a generator to alternator kit
> for my tr3a. I ordered one from Triumph Rescue yesterday that is supposed
> to have the alternator, belt, hardware and easy to follow instructions for
> $175. During the conversation on the phone with Triumph Rescue, he informed
> me that the alternator that he was sending was a 1 wire setup. He said his
> customers had no problem with the one (1) wire set up and that they do not
> offer the 3 wire alternator. I have read that the 3 wire type is a better
> choice but I do not know why. Has anyone had any experience with either
> type and what would you recommend? He told me that If I was dissatisfied in
> any way after receiving the unit I could return it with no problem. George
> M. 60 tr3a,

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Thu Aug 25 10:49:51 2011
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 16:49:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tenax pegs - TR3
In-Reply-To: <000001cc632e$657f0390$307d0ab0$@net>
Message-ID: <1497013484.374321.1314290991428.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Carl, I solved this problem with a "nutter" kit I got, I think, from JC
Whitney, but I've seen them in many places since, including Harbor Freight.B 
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.htmlB 
B B  It works like a pop riveter, but i nserts a threaded sleeve.



I seem to recall it required a little finagling with the tool because of the
lack of clearance on the blind side of the hole, but IB  repaired 2 of
thoseB tenax stud holes some years ago and they are stillB holding storng. I
used aluminum inserts.



BobB 



----- Original Message -----


From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 6:53:37 AM
Subject: [TR] Tenax pegs - TR3

Found something I didn't check when I was very early in the project.

The chrome windshield frame for the TR3 has 10 Tenax pegs - 10-32 threading.
The two outermost holes on the frame I had re-chromed in 2001 (yes 2001) are
stripped. B In fact there is no threading in the hole at all.

What is the fix?

I can't really braze/re-drill/tap as that would ruin the chrome.

I also don't want to be a DPO and super-glue them.

Can I use something like JB-Weld then re-drill/tap or would that simply pull
out since there really isn't anything for it to grip to.

Or, are there replacement pegs with a larger (12-28) fastener that would
allow for re-tapping the hole? B 

There are sleeves available with 'x' inside thread and 'y' outer. B But I am
not sure how small or what combinations might be available. B I will be near
Fastenal this afternoon and I will look into that.

There is also the option of replacing them with the aluminum windshield type
tenax peg but that would require drilling all the way through the frame and
having something visible on the inside. B (not particularly my #1 solution -
more like last resort)

Any suggestions greatly appreciated..

Carl

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Thu Aug 25 10:58:13 2011
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 16:58:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] tr3 Alternator Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-W633FAF2AC5CCFEEE3B0B4AB9100@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <119886881.374785.1314291493873.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Randy, do you know what model number or what application the NipponDenso
alternator came from? (If I wanted to get one, what would I look for?). What
kind of mosifications to t he brackets were required to get it to line up?



Thanks,

Bob



----- Original Message -----


From: "Randy and Valerie DeRuiter" <deruiterville at hotmail.com>
To: geomurphy at windstream.net, "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 8:51:55 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 Alternator Conversion Kit

George-

Someone else on the list may correct me, but I believe with the one wire setup
you will lose the ability to have the generator/alternator light - so if there
is a charging failure you won't get anything on the dashboard to let you
know.

A common alternator people have used, and what I have on my TR4 is a Delco
10si alternator - that typically gives you the '3 wire' capability to use the
warning light.

The 10si alternator is a fairly tight fit on a TR3A, but I know people have
used them - for my 3A project however, I'm using a much smaller NipponDenso
alternator - you can get a 3 wire, 40 amp alternator which works well. B The
only complication I had was the alternator was set up for a thin fan belt - I
had a friend with a lathe modify an original pulley for use with the Denso
version (same 15 mm shaft) so I can use a thick belt if I wish.

Regards,
Randy
64 TR4
59 TR3A

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 25 11:21:22 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 10:21:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR250 Stromberg plug
In-Reply-To: <380-22011842511135715@earthlink.net>
References: <380-22011842511135715@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <1E6308FF-5BCB-4A69-9172-E7145B97A330@comcast.net>

I just put a grease nipple in the rear hole ... to this day only one Judge has
seen it and asked what it was for ... "why to lubricate the butterfly valve I
answered" ...


On Aug 25, 2011, at 4:13 AM, Tomislav Marincic wrote:

> If the carbs are original to the TR250, the forward carb is tapped on top
for the vacuum advance. The rear carb has a threaded hole up top in the same
place, but the hole should never have been drilled all the way through to the
venturi for the vacuum signal. Are you sure you are getting a leak there?
>
> Cheers, Tom
>

"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA
Casper
1957 TR3
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 25 11:28:21 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 10:28:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 Alternator Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <000001cc630c$17734750$4659d5f0$@net>
References: <000001cc630c$17734750$4659d5f0$@net>
Message-ID: <69E49088-2049-44FA-A1AE-E7C799502E83@comcast.net>

The one wire setup will require you to do ugly things with you current
regulator wiring, if you are a concours type it may not be a good choice, but
I just gutted the regulator, and used the housing to hide all the ugly stuff.
It works fine if  you are not too picky ...



On Aug 25, 2011, at 2:48 AM, George wrote:

> I have been trying to find a good source for a generator to alternator kit
> for my tr3a.  I ordered one from Triumph Rescue yesterday that is supposed
> to have the alternator, belt, hardware and easy to follow instructions for
> $175.  During the conversation on the phone with Triumph Rescue, he
informed
> me that the alternator that he was sending was a 1 wire setup.  He said his
> customers had no problem with the one (1) wire set up and that they do not
> offer the 3 wire alternator.  I have read that the 3 wire type is a better
> choice but I do not know why.  Has anyone had any experience with either
> type and what would you recommend?  He told me that If I was dissatisfied
in
> any way after receiving the unit I could return it with no problem.  George
> M. 60 tr3a,
>



"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA
Casper
1957 TR3
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Aug 25 12:18:10 2011
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 11:18:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 Alternator Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <69E49088-2049-44FA-A1AE-E7C799502E83@comcast.net>
References: <000001cc630c$17734750$4659d5f0$@net>
	<69E49088-2049-44FA-A1AE-E7C799502E83@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4E5691E2.4000901@gmail.com>

Alternator -  1994 Buick Skylark  2.3L

That is  a small 3 wire GM alternator that I have on my TR3.

Or

You can get a complete kit that includes alternator, mounting brackets, 
a dummy voltage regulator and instructions from Morgan Motors of New 
England.

Teriann

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 25 12:26:49 2011
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 13:26:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3 Alternator Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <119886881.374785.1314291493873.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <BAY150-W633FAF2AC5CCFEEE3B0B4AB9100@phx.gbl>,
	<119886881.374785.1314291493873.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY150-W3116CBC89937C4843891A9B9100@phx.gbl>

Bob-

I picked mine up from DB Electrical, its for a Kubota forklift, pn AND0212.

Here's a link if it makes it through the list:
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-3602-kubota-alternator-r310-g2160-g2460-tg1860-
100211-4520-290-199-and0212.aspx

The upper tensioning bracket can be used with no modification, potentially
just needing a spacer at the engine to get alignment right.  The lower mount
you can fabricate with some threaded rod, tie into the existing generator
mount, and use spacers or locknets with washers to get alignment right.  I
took the lazy route and bought a kit from Bastuck in Germany which was set up
for this same alternator so saved some time.  It's not difficult though so
unless you are lazy like I was I would just rig up something as it will be
lower cost.  My guess for a completely do it yourself job for everything would
be under $100.

Randy





Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 16:58:13 +0000
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net
To: deruiterville at hotmail.com
CC: geomurphy at windstream.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 Alternator Conversion Kit





Randy, do you know what model number or what application the NipponDenso
alternator came from? (If I wanted to get one, what would I look for?). What
kind of mosifications to the brackets were required to get it to line up?

Thanks,
Bob

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Aug 25 16:43:50 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 22:43:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tenax pegs - TR3
In-Reply-To: <000001cc632e$657f0390$307d0ab0$@net>
Message-ID: <1716432041.729200.1314312230852.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>The chrome windshield frame for the TR3 has 10 Tenax pegs - 10-32 threading.
>The two outermost holes on the frame I had re-chromed in 2001 (yes 2001) are
>stripped.  In fact there is no threading in the hole at all.

>What is the fix?

Solar orbits ago, I had the same problem.  My fix--not necessarily the best, mind you--was purchase of one of the tenax fasteners that has a female post and a countersunk chrome screw to tie it down.  I drilled through the windshield frame, careful not to touch the glass, then insereted the tenax peg from the outside and screwed it in place from the inside.  It's not something I notice, but then I'm not particularly a purist.  Available from the Big Three, as I recall.

Yah, what I discovered anyway down the road is, when it's raining outside, it's raining inside anyway!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Thu Aug 25 16:50:22 2011
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 15:50:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Reupholstery vrs Seat Covers
Message-ID: <1314312622.29751.YahooMailNeo@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Hi List,
Has anyone opted for seat covers over reupholstery?  Are the seat
cover 
packages from places like Moss worthwhile?
The driver's side seat on my
TR is in need of repair.  However, I'm not sure 
if I should go with seat
covers or have it reupholstered....The nice thing 
about the seat is that it's
"broken-in" like my favorite TV/reading chair.  With an 
upholstery job, I'll
be sitting on a lot of new foam. 
Thank you for any advice.
Pat
TR4A, 67
1CTC/72746-L

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Aug 25 17:03:12 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 16:03:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Reupholstery vrs Seat Covers
In-Reply-To: <1314312622.29751.YahooMailNeo@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1314312622.29751.YahooMailNeo@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <61155FC0C3FD4BD78E9D299216B5E1E0@Vista>

I have gone both ways on my two Spitfires.  On the first one, I got a kit
from BPNW (same kit as sold by other resellers) and was quite happy with the
results.  On the other car, I opted for a professional job.  Although it is
not something that would be acceptable to a concourse judge, it is really a
great addition to the car.  I was able to select the fabric insert that best
matched the color scheme of the car as well as the hardtop's headliner, but
I also had him embroider the early Spitfire script on the headrests.

It was truly a professional job and looks and feels great.  Cost was very
reasonable.

So I guess it really depends on what you are after in the long run.  The
kits are something that accomplishes a stock appearance.  The same can be
achieved by a professional but if you wish to go a bit further, the
professional job is your only option.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of P Caffrey
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 3:50 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Reupholstery vrs Seat Covers

Hi List,
Has anyone opted for seat covers over reupholstery?  Are the seat
cover 
packages from places like Moss worthwhile?
The driver's side seat on my
TR is in need of repair.  However, I'm not sure 
if I should go with seat
covers or have it reupholstered....The nice thing 
about the seat is that it's
"broken-in" like my favorite TV/reading chair.  With an 
upholstery job, I'll
be sitting on a lot of new foam. 
Thank you for any advice.
Pat
TR4A, 67
1CTC/72746-L


triumphs at autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From thenicholls at verizon.net  Thu Aug 25 18:27:14 2011
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 19:27:14 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Reupholstery vrs Seat Covers
Message-ID: <1358706348.5150749.1314318435161.JavaMail.root@vznit170076>

My follow up on that would be that I had an entire interior redone on my 1972 Triumph TR6 this winter.  It was purchased several years ago from TRF.  I would recommend that you go to an installer who works on interiors.

I made the mistake of taking it to a "British car shop" that does entire restorations.  Instead of just saying they could not do it, they attempted it and did a half-a$$ job.  I then took it to a shop dedicated to interiors, and even though the owner was not happy the way it turned out, I was happy, and I am particular.

You could get the two seats done, just make sure that you have them done by an expert.

My two cents.

Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6
Vienna, VA


Aug 25, 2011 07:01:13 PM, spitlist at cox.net wrote:

I have gone both ways on my two Spitfires. On the first one, I got a kit
from BPNW (same kit as sold by other resellers) and was quite happy with the
results. On the other car, I opted for a professional job. Although it is
not something that would be acceptable to a concourse judge, it is really a
great addition to the car. I was able to select the fabric insert that best
matched the color scheme of the car as well as the hardtop's headliner, but
I also had him embroider the early Spitfire script on the headrests.

It was truly a professional job and looks and feels great. Cost was very
reasonable.

So I guess it really depends on what you are after in the long run. The
kits are something that accomplishes a stock appearance. The same can be
achieved by a professional but if you wish to go a bit further, the
professional job is your only option.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of P Caffrey
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 3:50 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Reupholstery vrs Seat Covers

Hi List,
Has anyone opted for seat covers over reupholstery? Are the seat
cover 
packages from places like Moss worthwhile?
The driver's side seat on my
TR is in need of repair. However, I'm not sure 
if I should go with seat
covers or have it reupholstered....The nice thing 
about the seat is that it's
"broken-in" like my favorite TV/reading chair. With an 
upholstery job, I'll
be sitting on a lot of new foam. 
Thank you for any advice.
Pat
TR4A, 67
1CTC/72746-L


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From goh62agan at verizon.net  Thu Aug 25 20:36:14 2011
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 22:36:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 fuel delivery issues?
Message-ID: <57A95FFC-D460-437B-972B-9E8D14CB5D50@verizon.net>

Thanks to all who responded.  Let me add some clarifications.
No,  they are Zenith Stromberg carbs. They came with the car.  Sure I'd like
SU's or Webers, but my goal is to finish the car by the most direct course and
maybe I can change the carbs after its drivable.  Another variable at this
stage is more than I'm ready to take on.
Not sure about the engine condition.  The DPO says he rebuilt it , but its
been sitting around for years. The engine was not in the car when I got it.
Seemed OK with a compression check, but I do worry about some undiscovered
internal issues.
The oil leak is a separate issue. No idea where this came from but, the last
few times the engine has been running it hasn't been leaking oil.  Probably
just a matter of time before this rebleeds.
My next step will be to check for any fuel delivery issues starting at the
tank and working through the carbs.

From elliottr at rmi.net  Thu Aug 25 21:03:37 2011
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 23:03:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR250 Stromberg plug
Message-ID: <15513850.1314327817921.JavaMail.root@mswamui-swiss.atl.sa.earthlink.net>


From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Aug 25 22:03:08 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 23:03:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Reupholstery vrs Seat Covers
In-Reply-To: <1314312622.29751.YahooMailNeo@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1314312622.29751.YahooMailNeo@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E7ACECABB291482B861FBC4641C2793B@bboffice>

Pat,
Whether you go with seat covers or a re-upholstery job I am sure who ever
does the job can retain your old broken in feel for you.  Be sure to beef up
the worn areas and not go too firm on the foam, there are many firmness
grades available.

I got the leather covers from TRF(NFI) and had them professionally
installed, he even used tacks and no staples, they look great and are very
original to the initial comfort of the car.  My only regret is that I should
have augmented the lumbar support above what would be the original padding. 

Bottom line, get what you want and have pro do in order to get the feel that
you are looking for.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of P Caffrey
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 5:50 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Reupholstery vrs Seat Covers

Hi List,
Has anyone opted for seat covers over reupholstery?  Are the seat cover
packages from places like Moss worthwhile?
The driver's side seat on my
TR is in need of repair.  However, I'm not sure if I should go with seat
covers or have it reupholstered....The nice thing about the seat is that
it's "broken-in" like my favorite TV/reading chair.  With an upholstery job,
I'll be sitting on a lot of new foam. 
Thank you for any advice.
Pat
TR4A, 67
1CTC/72746-L


triumphs at autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Aug 26 06:43:06 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 08:43:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Reupholstery vrs Seat Covers
In-Reply-To: <1314312622.29751.YahooMailNeo@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1314312622.29751.YahooMailNeo@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201108260843.07252.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday, August 25, 2011 06:50:22 pm P Caffrey wrote:
> Hi List,
> Has anyone opted for seat covers over reupholstery?  Are the seat
> cover
> packages from places like Moss worthwhile?
> The driver's side seat on my
> TR is in need of repair.  However, I'm not sure
> if I should go with seat
> covers or have it reupholstered....The nice thing
> about the seat is that it's
> "broken-in" like my favorite TV/reading chair.  With an
> upholstery job, I'll
> be sitting on a lot of new foam.
> Thank you for any advice.
> Pat
> TR4A, 67
> 1CTC/72746-L
> 
Pat,

I to have gone both routes.

The seats on my 3 were reupholstered by my dad way back in 92. He took the 
original covers to use as patterns. He added some upgrades to insure 
comfortable ride.

They are still the same almost 20 years later.

He was a master upholsterer for over 50 years.

By the time my 4 and 6 came along my father was no longer with us but I used 
some of his knowledge to take the covers offered by Moss for my 4 to make them 
fit and feel similar to my 3.

I did the same with my recently completed 72 6. The covers came from Skinners 
in the UK but, using some of the same techniques my dad used on the 3, I now 
have a great fitting seat that should last for the rest of my life for sure.

Bob

From mcmeganutt at aol.com  Fri Aug 26 12:11:09 2011
From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 14:11:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Connecticut Triumph Register
Message-ID: <8CE3232AA59E6A0-1D18-7221@webmail-d003.sysops.aol.com>

   MARK THIS DAY ON YOUR CALENDAR:
                                                          SEPTEMBER 11TH
2011!!
                               31st ANNUAL BRITISH MOTORCAR GATHERING AND
PICNIC
          Sunday, September 11th, 2011 / Wickham Park, Manchester, CT / Exit
60 off I-84

Venue
The Connecticut Triumph Register invites anyone with a British motorcar or
motorcycle
of any make, model, and condition to join the fun. Wickham Park, with 250
acres of gardens,
open fields, woodlands, ponds, picnic areas, sports facilities,and other
attractions, is a beautiful venue for this autumn event. Signs within the park
will direct participants to the registration and field parking area. Dash
plaques will be provided while supplies last.

Food and Family Fun
Meet and mingle with other Triumph and British vehicle owners. Bring your own
picnic or purchase food and beverage at the event. Tennis and volleyball
courts are available. Class awards and raffle are the afternoon highlight. You
must be present to win raffle items.

Regalia
CTR t-shirts, golf shirts, hats, decals, and pins will be available for
purchase.

Schedule
9:30 AM - 11:00 AM: Registration and Preparation
11:00 AM - 12:30 PM: Judging (participantbs choice)
Class Awards @ 1:30 PM; Raffles @ 12:30 and 2PM

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Aug 26 12:56:12 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 14:56:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Reupholstery vrs Seat Covers
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeNqtMUWuMqsnh0u=ozRGna__gqK4nQVUxmLfTJJB2-vPw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1314312622.29751.YahooMailNeo@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<201108260843.07252.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<CANhzkeNqtMUWuMqsnh0u=ozRGna__gqK4nQVUxmLfTJJB2-vPw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201108261456.14087.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday, August 26, 2011 08:59:59 am you wrote:
> Could you please share details of what you and your dad did? Im going to be
> fitting new seat covers to my tr2 this winter.
> 
> Thanks
Chris and Carl,

Ok I will give you a list for the 3 seats my dad did.

1. He chose to use jute rope, instead of the standard welt cord for the 
outside welts of the backs. He left some extra rope in order to stretch the 
backs sides with the cord which were then stapled to the wood backing thus 
insuring not only a firm back but the sides were also very firm.

2. Replaced all the organic stuffing on the seat backs with dacron. He glued 
the dacron with a special glue he had in the shop. This glue was red in color 
but I cant remember the supplier.

3. He replaced a number of the springs in the seats. The springs were 
purchased from his supplier. I believe they were a bit stiffer than the stock 
springs. 

4. 3.5" jute webbing was sewn into the top and bottom of the seat springs. The 
webbing was sewn in an overlapping fashion. Then he stuffed some high density 
foam into the seat springs to give even more support.

5. A very thin layer of dacron was glued to the backs of both seats. I believe 
there was cotton there originally or maybe nothing. This was just a cosmetic 
addition.

Now on the 4, I did all the same things but number 1, since the seat covers 
were already sewn by the Moss supplier.

On the 6 I did the same thing with the dacron and the seats.

Bob

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Aug 26 15:54:26 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 21:54:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Reupholstery vrs Seat Covers
In-Reply-To: <1314312622.29751.YahooMailNeo@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1834684078.777227.1314395666156.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Has anyone opted for seat covers over reupholstery?  Are the seat
>cover packages from places like Moss worthwhile?

Thought I'd give the minimalist version of a response.  When I restored my '59 TR3A seats, I replaced seat coils with some old bedsprings using hog-rings, then used the leather seatcover kit from one of the Big 3.  After 50,000 miles they look great.  They're leather.  They're comfortable.  But no...they're not professional.  

Me, I'm easily impressed.  The kids on the street who gape and give me a big grin while flashing a thumbs up, they don't know the difference.  The other drivers on the road, well...it sometimes gets to the point of aggravating how many honks and waves the car draws.  If it's for concourse or something that serious, only you can tell.

Maybe, I guess, the biggest kick I get is being able to tell people I restored the car myself.  (Except the body work which I still fume is more like drywall so forget it!  Although, well, I WAS the guy who hacksawed the rusty body off the frame in the beginning.)

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Fri Aug 26 19:54:03 2011
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 21:54:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] Reupholstery vrs Seat Covers
Message-ID: <12b30.4620a0ea.3b89a83b@aol.com>

Pat,
I had TR4A seats in my 64 TR4. I purchased the leather seat kits from Moss  
and took them to a local auto upholstery shop. Not cheap, but the finished 
seats  look and felt like new. I'm sure they could pad the seat cushion to 
your  liking.
 
Eric
71 TR6
 
 
 
 
<Hi List,
<Has anyone opted for seat covers over  reupholstery?  Are the seat
<cover 
<packages from places like  Moss worthwhile?

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Aug 27 08:14:10 2011
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 07:14:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR2 Photo on Ebay
Message-ID: <1314454450.53436.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     So I just looked at Ebay for collector cars and at the top of the page 
showcased is a red TR2 with wide white walls with a blue Lotus Elise in the 
background. It looks like the SF bay in the background and the pic could be 
taken in Marin. Is this someone on the list?

http://www.ebaymotorsblog.com/1954-triumph-tr2/

     I am at work today and drove the TR3A to work at 5 AM on a cool California 
morning.

     Bill Brewer

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Aug 27 09:00:48 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 10:00:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2 Photo on Ebay
In-Reply-To: <1314454450.53436.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1314454450.53436.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EA4A0A5E6BFC4D47B5D0FA04B3BF4170@bboffice>

Looks like a great restoration candidate, or driver.  Would love to have a
long-door but time/space/$$$ all seem to be working against me at the
moment. ;-(

BTW, description says the car is in Calgary, Alberta.

Here's hoping that everyone has a great weekend drive your LBC!

All the best,
Bill (still looking for an LBC in Abilene,TX)

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 9:14 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR2 Photo on Ebay

     So I just looked at Ebay for collector cars and at the top of the page
showcased is a red TR2 with wide white walls with a blue Lotus Elise in the
background. It looks like the SF bay in the background and the pic could be
taken in Marin. Is this someone on the list?

http://www.ebaymotorsblog.com/1954-triumph-tr2/

     I am at work today and drove the TR3A to work at 5 AM on a cool
California morning.

     Bill Brewer


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat Aug 27 15:36:18 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 17:36:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Compression ratio
Message-ID: <001e01cc6501$5b52d6b0$11f88410$@rr.com>

Does a table exist that shows varying  head thickness and applicable
compression ratio.  Richard Good has one for the TR6, but am looking for my
TR4.  The head is 3.223 and I had 185 compression across all four cylinders.


Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4 CT5212LO

75 TR6 CF39514U

Maitland, FL

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Aug 27 17:10:18 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 18:10:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dream Shop
Message-ID: <5E19511E79484BD3AA8949F3D52EA883@bboffice>

I have the unprecedented opportunity to move into a near-virginal 30x30 shop
next week.  Does anyone have any ideal plans as to a layout for a shop
almost exclusively dedicated to the hobby?
 
There is a 12' wide O/H door at one end and a 10' wide door at the other.  I
am probably going to put my two workbenches. Bead blast cabinet and two roll
around boxes on one wall with rack storage on the other.  This still leaves
me a lot of floor space for Tarbaby and I still need to have room for a few
racks of parts and tools.  Another want, after I recuperate financially,
would be a lift.  Please don't suggest another LBC, that would put me over
the edge.
 
Any floor plan suggestions, drawings or pictures would be appreciated.
Maybe I should invite Jay Leno over for a consult?

Have a great w/e!

TIA,
Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Sat Aug 27 17:11:16 2011
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 19:11:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] update fuel delivery
Message-ID: <FA32A342-5FEF-4E2F-8957-C6C17D11D1C0@verizon.net>

This morning I started on the fuel lines and carbs.  Fuel delivery to the
carbs seemed OK.  Took the carbs off and removed the float bowls.  Some stuff
in there but probably not enough to cause my problems.  Cleaned up the carbs
and reassembled.  Fiddled around with the jet adjusting screws again. Wow, car
ran pretty well, not sure why.  Drove to the gas station to get some Etoh-free
gas. Still have some bugs to iron out (fluid leaks, etc), but  I'll keep
working on it.
Thanks for everyone's help.

From tcheat2002 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 27 17:19:51 2011
From: tcheat2002 at yahoo.com (Tim Cheatham)
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 18:19:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dream Shop
In-Reply-To: <5E19511E79484BD3AA8949F3D52EA883@bboffice>
References: <5E19511E79484BD3AA8949F3D52EA883@bboffice>
Message-ID: <5B07076F-F3E5-4107-A68D-0B0DBC7DDBE0@yahoo.com>

Bill,

You might check out the Garage Journal website and forums. There are some
interesting, informative threads on there. One caveat:  it can turn you into a
tool collecting addict. Or maybe that was just me.

Congrats on the new space!  That sounds fantastic.

Tim

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2011, at 6:10 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I have the unprecedented opportunity to move into a near-virginal 30x30
shop
> next week.  Does anyone have any ideal plans as to a layout for a shop
> almost exclusively dedicated to the hobby?
>
> There is a 12' wide O/H door at one end and a 10' wide door at the other.
I
> am probably going to put my two workbenches. Bead blast cabinet and two
roll
> around boxes on one wall with rack storage on the other.  This still leaves
> me a lot of floor space for Tarbaby and I still need to have room for a few
> racks of parts and tools.  Another want, after I recuperate financially,
> would be a lift.  Please don't suggest another LBC, that would put me over
> the edge.
>
> Any floor plan suggestions, drawings or pictures would be appreciated.
> Maybe I should invite Jay Leno over for a consult?
>
> Have a great w/e!
>
> TIA,
> Bill
>
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tcheat2002 at yahoo.com

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2011, at 6:10 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I have the unprecedented opportunity to move into a near-virginal 30x30
shop
> next week.  Does anyone have any ideal plans as to a layout for a shop
> almost exclusively dedicated to the hobby?
>
> There is a 12' wide O/H door at one end and a 10' wide door at the other.
I
> am probably going to put my two workbenches. Bead blast cabinet and two
roll
> around boxes on one wall with rack storage on the other.  This still leaves
> me a lot of floor space for Tarbaby and I still need to have room for a few
> racks of parts and tools.  Another want, after I recuperate financially,
> would be a lift.  Please don't suggest another LBC, that would put me over
> the edge.
>
> Any floor plan suggestions, drawings or pictures would be appreciated.
> Maybe I should invite Jay Leno over for a consult?
>
> Have a great w/e!
>
> TIA,
> Bill
>
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tcheat2002 at yahoo.com

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Sat Aug 27 17:40:07 2011
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (keithstewart at execulink.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 19:40:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 Photo on Ebay
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1314468002.12434.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1314468002.12434.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <3181eb774cb97c928918a3424727fe30@execulink.com>

 On Sat, 27 Aug 2011 12:00:02 -0600, William Brewer 
 <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

>      So I just looked at Ebay for collector cars and at the top of 
> the page
> showcased is a red TR2 with wide white walls with a blue Lotus Elise 
> in the
> background. It looks like the SF bay in the background and the pic 
> could be
> taken in Marin. Is this someone on the list?
>
 Based on the owner stating he keeps the car in his warehouse and he 
 lives in Kelowna (British Columbia), and having spent four days in the 
 Okanagan Valley last week (Kelowna), I believe that is the Okanagan Lake 
 in the background. I see the car is still plated with Alberta plates and 
 the owner stated he imported it from MI to Calgary Alberta. I guess he 
 never had it plated in British Columbia. When I was in Kelowna last 
 week, the Okanagan British Car Club had a car show just outside Kelowna, 
 in Peachland, and this car was definitely not there. The closest was a 
 TR3A.

 Keith Stewart
 TR3/4/4A/6

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Aug 27 17:45:46 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 18:45:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dream Shop
In-Reply-To: <5B07076F-F3E5-4107-A68D-0B0DBC7DDBE0@yahoo.com>
References: <5E19511E79484BD3AA8949F3D52EA883@bboffice>
	<5B07076F-F3E5-4107-A68D-0B0DBC7DDBE0@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5F4B1D46-2073-473C-AA12-8EFC08729AF8@flash.net>

Thanks for the suggestion, unfortunately I got my first Snap- On account in
1967 so the addiction is long past the incurable stage.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 27, 2011, at 6:19 PM, Tim Cheatham <tcheat2002 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Bill,
>
> You might check out the Garage Journal website and forums. There are some
interesting, informative threads on there. One caveat:  it can turn you into a
tool collecting addict. Or maybe that was just me.
>
> Congrats on the new space!  That sounds fantastic.
>
> Tim
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2011, at 6:10 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
>
>> I have the unprecedented opportunity to move into a near-virginal 30x30
shop
>> next week.  Does anyone have any ideal plans as to a layout for a shop
>> almost exclusively dedicated to the hobby?
>>
>> There is a 12' wide O/H door at one end and a 10' wide door at the other.
I
>> am probably going to put my two workbenches. Bead blast cabinet and two
roll
>> around boxes on one wall with rack storage on the other.  This still
leaves
>> me a lot of floor space for Tarbaby and I still need to have room for a
few
>> racks of parts and tools.  Another want, after I recuperate financially,
>> would be a lift.  Please don't suggest another LBC, that would put me over
>> the edge.
>>
>> Any floor plan suggestions, drawings or pictures would be appreciated.
>> Maybe I should invite Jay Leno over for a consult?
>>
>> Have a great w/e!
>>
>> TIA,
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> Bill Beecher
>> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
>> www.triumphowners.com/1566
>> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
>> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>>
>>
>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tcheat2002 at yahoo.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2011, at 6:10 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
>
>> I have the unprecedented opportunity to move into a near-virginal 30x30
shop
>> next week.  Does anyone have any ideal plans as to a layout for a shop
>> almost exclusively dedicated to the hobby?
>>
>> There is a 12' wide O/H door at one end and a 10' wide door at the other.
I
>> am probably going to put my two workbenches. Bead blast cabinet and two
roll
>> around boxes on one wall with rack storage on the other.  This still
leaves
>> me a lot of floor space for Tarbaby and I still need to have room for a
few
>> racks of parts and tools.  Another want, after I recuperate financially,
>> would be a lift.  Please don't suggest another LBC, that would put me over
>> the edge.
>>
>> Any floor plan suggestions, drawings or pictures would be appreciated.
>> Maybe I should invite Jay Leno over for a consult?
>>
>> Have a great w/e!
>>
>> TIA,
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> Bill Beecher
>> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
>> www.triumphowners.com/1566
>> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
>> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>>
>>
>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tcheat2002 at yahoo.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Aug 27 17:59:33 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 19:59:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dream Shop
In-Reply-To: <5E19511E79484BD3AA8949F3D52EA883@bboffice>
References: <5E19511E79484BD3AA8949F3D52EA883@bboffice>
Message-ID: <7485883ADE504B48A1CD18AA29E1B366@BobPC>

Bill.......

Wolf built this beautiful 24' x 34' garage which we call the LBC 
Cathedral.........with lots of input from 6-Pack Forum members.

You might want to check out these threads that go from ground breaking to 
completion. There's lots to read but also lots of good information & 
pictures.

http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=26&id=141802&Itemid=85#141802

http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=26&id=155322&Itemid=85#155322

http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=26&id=185439&Itemid=85

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 7:10 PM
To: 'Triumphs' ; british-cars at autox.team.net ; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Dream Shop

I have the unprecedented opportunity to move into a near-virginal 30x30 shop
next week.  Does anyone have any ideal plans as to a layout for a shop
almost exclusively dedicated to the hobby?

There is a 12' wide O/H door at one end and a 10' wide door at the other.  I
am probably going to put my two workbenches. Bead blast cabinet and two roll
around boxes on one wall with rack storage on the other.  This still leaves
me a lot of floor space for Tarbaby and I still need to have room for a few
racks of parts and tools.  Another want, after I recuperate financially,
would be a lift.  Please don't suggest another LBC, that would put me over
the edge.

Any floor plan suggestions, drawings or pictures would be appreciated.
Maybe I should invite Jay Leno over for a consult?

Have a great w/e!

TIA,
Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Aug 27 21:17:28 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 22:17:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] update fuel delivery
In-Reply-To: <FA32A342-5FEF-4E2F-8957-C6C17D11D1C0@verizon.net>
References: <FA32A342-5FEF-4E2F-8957-C6C17D11D1C0@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <20110828031757.8957A1878CA@autox.team.net>

Small stuff in the float bowls is generally enough to cause weird 
intermittent drivability problems.

Tony

At 06:11 PM 8/27/2011, Gary O'Hagan wrote:
>This morning I started on the fuel lines and carbs.  Fuel delivery to the
>carbs seemed OK.  Took the carbs off and removed the float bowls.  Some stuff
>in there but probably not enough to cause my problems.  Cleaned up the carbs
>and reassembled.  Fiddled around with the jet adjusting screws again. Wow, car
>ran pretty well, not sure why.  Drove to the gas station to get some Etoh-free
>gas. Still have some bugs to iron out (fluid leaks, etc), but  I'll keep
>working on it.
>Thanks for everyone's help.
>
>
>triumphs at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sun Aug 28 07:48:16 2011
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 09:48:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dream Shop
References: <5E19511E79484BD3AA8949F3D52EA883@bboffice>
Message-ID: <6FD74972B0C3498AB687E906B1E3EA64@DCS78M81>

Tim Studdard TR3 racecar and TR6 driver and editor of  Classic Motorsport 
magazine is doing a piece on redoing his garage here's the link to the site.
http://classicmotorsports.net/
It's kind of a neat magazine headquartered in Holly Hill, Fl just half an 
hour from me.  The series may help some.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wbeech at flash.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <british-cars at autox.team.net>; 
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 7:10 PM
Subject: [TR] Dream Shop


>I have the unprecedented opportunity to move into a near-virginal 30x30 
>shop
> next week.  Does anyone have any ideal plans as to a layout for a shop
> almost exclusively dedicated to the hobby?
>
> There is a 12' wide O/H door at one end and a 10' wide door at the other. 
> I
> am probably going to put my two workbenches. Bead blast cabinet and two 
> roll
> around boxes on one wall with rack storage on the other.  This still 
> leaves
> me a lot of floor space for Tarbaby and I still need to have room for a 
> few
> racks of parts and tools.  Another want, after I recuperate financially,
> would be a lift.  Please don't suggest another LBC, that would put me over
> the edge.
>
> Any floor plan suggestions, drawings or pictures would be appreciated.
> Maybe I should invite Jay Leno over for a consult?
>
> Have a great w/e!
>
> TIA,
> Bill
>
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Aug 28 07:58:10 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 06:58:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Dream Shop
In-Reply-To: <6FD74972B0C3498AB687E906B1E3EA64@DCS78M81>
References: <5E19511E79484BD3AA8949F3D52EA883@bboffice>
	<6FD74972B0C3498AB687E906B1E3EA64@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <016C7A6C7C4E434FB408CE02C6DA2E70@Vista>

I wonder if Tim is writing off his garage upgrade as a business expense!  :)

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of THOMAS FANSHER
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 6:48 AM
To: wbeech at flash.net; 'Triumphs'; british-cars at autox.team.net;
mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Dream Shop

Tim Studdard TR3 racecar and TR6 driver and editor of  Classic Motorsport 
magazine is doing a piece on redoing his garage here's the link to the site.
http://classicmotorsports.net/
It's kind of a neat magazine headquartered in Holly Hill, Fl just half an 
hour from me.  The series may help some.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wbeech at flash.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <british-cars at autox.team.net>; 
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 7:10 PM
Subject: [TR] Dream Shop


>I have the unprecedented opportunity to move into a near-virginal 30x30 
>shop
> next week.  Does anyone have any ideal plans as to a layout for a shop
> almost exclusively dedicated to the hobby?
>
> There is a 12' wide O/H door at one end and a 10' wide door at the other. 
> I
> am probably going to put my two workbenches. Bead blast cabinet and two 
> roll
> around boxes on one wall with rack storage on the other.  This still 
> leaves
> me a lot of floor space for Tarbaby and I still need to have room for a 
> few
> racks of parts and tools.  Another want, after I recuperate financially,
> would be a lift.  Please don't suggest another LBC, that would put me over
> the edge.
>
> Any floor plan suggestions, drawings or pictures would be appreciated.
> Maybe I should invite Jay Leno over for a consult?
>
> Have a great w/e!
>
> TIA,
> Bill
>
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Aug 28 10:04:56 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 09:04:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Dream Shop
In-Reply-To: <5E19511E79484BD3AA8949F3D52EA883@bboffice>
References: <5E19511E79484BD3AA8949F3D52EA883@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHyAbXa0dg6_r2xOWkc+65mVO5G3gZryAw4UdUtnB5eww@mail.gmail.com>

Though you asked about layout, I'll mention that before you move in is the
ideal time for any floor treatment.  A good floor treatment makes the garage
a much more pleasant place, easier to keep clean, better light and just a
nice place to enjoy a non-moving TR.

Geo

On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 4:10 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I have the unprecedented opportunity to move into a near-virginal 30x30
> shop
> next week...

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Aug 28 17:42:19 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 19:42:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Door checkstrap stop
Message-ID: <25D380A96FC7454C810DDA22B0337FE6@DCH6RFC1>

Hello, everyone:

 

I have my TR250 nearing completion and have run into a problem in that the
door checkstrap stop (part of the A-post) has snapped on the driver's side.
I think the best solution would be to fit a piece from a junk car.  Does
anyone know of a TR4 or 250 where this piece could be removed and
subsequently re-installed ?  If so, please contact me off-list.  Many
thanks.

 

Andrew Uprichard

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sun Aug 28 20:55:41 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 21:55:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Jack Stowage in Boot
Message-ID: <06602D37-4987-4790-B845-C86C9358D49B@genfiniti.com>

All,

I am wondering how one properly stows the jack and other tire changing tools
in the boot of a TR4A.
Just setting it loosely in there would be messy.  Triumph put a small belt in
the wheel storage area for the tool roll, so it follows that there would be
another for the tire tools.

I suspect this is the case, because I have three machined holes in an "L"
pattern on the left side of the boot, on the platform near the outer wall.
I can easily see some sort of belt/bracket belonging here to keep the tire
tools secured.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 28 21:41:51 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 20:41:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
Message-ID: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall>

Just spotted this on Craigslist; don't know anything else about it.
http://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/2567695551.html

-- Randall 

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Aug 29 01:32:26 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 08:32:26 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
In-Reply-To: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1314603146.52583.YahooMailNeo@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Car certainly seems to have had a full repaint since leaving Coventry. Don't
recall 'Vomit' being available in the colour charts or 'non-standard colour'
listings for TR's until the days of variations on (Fiat's?) Positano Yellow of
the late 60's.
 
Jonmac

Just spotted this on Craigslist; don't know anything
else about it.
>http://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/2567695551.html
>
>--
Randall 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon Aug 29 06:14:34 2011
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 08:14:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
In-Reply-To: <1314603146.52583.YahooMailNeo@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall>
	<1314603146.52583.YahooMailNeo@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9AD8E6C2EDE14A8F84B4D881F5523268@AlexPC>

That's a TR6 color believe it or not.

Alex


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
To: "'Triumph list'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 3:32 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)


> Car certainly seems to have had a full repaint since leaving Coventry. 
> Don't
> recall 'Vomit' being available in the colour charts or 'non-standard 
> colour'
> listings for TR's until the days of variations on (Fiat's?) Positano 
> Yellow of
> the late 60's.
>
> Jonmac
>
> Just spotted this on Craigslist; don't know anything
> else about it.
>>http://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/2567695551.html
>>
>>--
> Randall

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 29 07:23:08 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 13:23:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
In-Reply-To: <1314603146.52583.YahooMailNeo@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1945460424.835186.1314624188911.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

All, 



That color always reminds me of the comment I overheard a young 10K runner make to his mother after the race: "Mom, what did I have for breakfast that was yellow?" 



Ed Woods 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Aug 29 09:46:37 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 08:46:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Jack Stowage in Boot
In-Reply-To: <06602D37-4987-4790-B845-C86C9358D49B@genfiniti.com>
References: <06602D37-4987-4790-B845-C86C9358D49B@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHWdaKp0pq1K4pT5BC9bN0HjO=BxNTdEWmLoEkM3OVi=A@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 7:55 PM, G.D. Huggins <guy at genfiniti.com> wrote:

> I am wondering how one properly stows the jack and other tire changing
> tools
> in the boot of a TR4A.
>

Maybe there is an official way, but I put the spare in  'good side down' and
the jack, lug wrench and lots of other stuff go in the well created by the
backside of the tire rim.  Wrap the stuff in towels to eliminate rattle, the
towels will also be useful someday.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Aug 29 09:52:41 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 08:52:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
In-Reply-To: <1945460424.835186.1314624188911.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1314603146.52583.YahooMailNeo@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<1945460424.835186.1314624188911.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFSmDAMV9Fc9VvUE9r1m1AS8VRO9EWzJZmnL84Bmugkog@mail.gmail.com>

At least the engine compartment and door jambs also got that paint --
usually indicative of a quality professional job.  That color would make the
CA black plate (barely visible) look good.  From the little revealed in the
pics this could be a good car though a lack of price and the comment about
the range of values may mean a glassy-eyed owner.

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Mon Aug 29 10:19:53 2011
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 11:19:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
In-Reply-To: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com>

snip<<1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino).  This has been a family
owned vehicle since purchased new for $6000 in 1963, as long as the Ford
Mustang has been around!  In it's current state, not running I've been told
the market value is around $8K to $15K. I can make it run, but that will
come down the road.>>

Wouldn't $6000 in 1963 have been more like Aston Martin or Jaguar money than
TR4 money?

Don

On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 10:41 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Just spotted this on Craigslist; don't know anything else about it.
> http://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/2567695551.html
>
> -- Randall
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Aug 29 10:48:18 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 10:48:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFSmDAMV9Fc9VvUE9r1m1AS8VRO9EWzJZmnL84Bmugkog@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1314603146.52583.YahooMailNeo@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<1945460424.835186.1314624188911.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<CANzE1bFSmDAMV9Fc9VvUE9r1m1AS8VRO9EWzJZmnL84Bmugkog@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C1089523-EBD1-4BF6-AA45-810E24E5F1CC@comcast.net>

If his family paid $6000 then that explains why he thinks its worth  
$8-15k.  That car probably sold for less than $2k when new and might  
be worth $2500-$5000 as a project car today.  I think it'll still be  
in his family for awhile if he thinks its worth way more than that.

My TR4A project car could be pried away from me for $6000 and that  
includes the American Racing Equipment aluminum mags and 6 NOKOFs.   
The AREs  have been trued, balanced, and powder coated and to a  
collector might be worth $1-2k by themselves if sold separately, which  
I will not do.  You might see the whole package on eBay one of these  
days.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Aug 29, 2011, at 9:52 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:

> At least the engine compartment and door jambs also got that paint --
> usually indicative of a quality professional job.  That color would  
> make the
> CA black plate (barely visible) look good.  From the little revealed  
> in the
> pics this could be a good car though a lack of price and the comment  
> about
> the range of values may mean a glassy-eyed owner.
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From kkealty at rogers.com  Mon Aug 29 10:57:51 2011
From: kkealty at rogers.com (KEVIN KEALTY)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 09:57:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall>
	<CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1314637071.88386.YahooMailNeo@web88608.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

 
Correct.
>From what I can find, a Jaguar cost $5990 in 1960, a TR4 cost $2849
in 1964.
 
 

From: Don Hiscock don.hiscock at gmail.com

snip<<1964 TR4 Triumph
for sale (San Bernardino).  This has been a family
owned vehicle since
purchased new for $6000 in 1963, as long as the Ford
Mustang has been around! 
In it's current state, not running I've been told
the market value is around
$8K to $15K. I can make it run, but that will
come down the road.>>

Wouldn't
$6000 in 1963 have been more like Aston Martin or Jaguar money than
TR4 money?
Don

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 29 11:13:36 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 10:13:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall>
	<CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>

> Wouldn't $6000 in 1963 have been more like Aston Martin or Jaguar money
> than TR4 money?

Certainly seems to be something wrong there, as a TR4A sold for around $3000
(with hardtop) in 1966.

I'd say his other prices are similarly out of line, but I'm certainly no
expert.  The best approach might be to find some comparable recent sales and
show him the information.  Plus a 1963 ad, if you can find one.

Or just pass and keep looking.  Craigslist car ads seem frequently
overpriced to me; I just thought this one might be interesting to the group.
To my uneducated eye, that looks like a factory "surrey" top, which I
understand are somewhat scarce these days.

-- Randall 

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Mon Aug 29 12:23:25 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 14:23:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen Vintage Race
Message-ID: <4E5BD91D.7060907@bright.net>

Hi listers. We will beat the Watkins Glen Vintage races Sept. 8 - 11.  
We will have a parts/accessories booth in the vendor area and can bring 
items out ifyou have a specific need. Please give me a call if you need 
something.  Look forward to seeing you there. Thanks,Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 29 14:37:46 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 15:37:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
In-Reply-To: <21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com>
	<21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>

it also looks like it has the original aluminum top piece, which is 
extremely rare.  the hardtop might be worth the purchase price alone <grin>

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 12:13 PM
Cc: "'Triumph list'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)

>> Wouldn't $6000 in 1963 have been more like Aston Martin or Jaguar money
>> than TR4 money?
>
> Certainly seems to be something wrong there, as a TR4A sold for around 
> $3000
> (with hardtop) in 1966.
>
> I'd say his other prices are similarly out of line, but I'm certainly no
> expert.  The best approach might be to find some comparable recent sales 
> and
> show him the information.  Plus a 1963 ad, if you can find one.
>
> Or just pass and keep looking.  Craigslist car ads seem frequently
> overpriced to me; I just thought this one might be interesting to the 
> group.
> To my uneducated eye, that looks like a factory "surrey" top, which I
> understand are somewhat scarce these days.
>
> -- Randall

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon Aug 29 18:05:11 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:05:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com><21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
	<53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <B58B9208B63B4622B7AB990091D72ABB@userb38463fba5>

It's certainly worth the original purchase price of the car in 1964, maybe 
more but $6,000 is a push, especially now that good reproductions are 
available from England. The aluminum hardtop is a fragile piece, I spent 
some decent cash to get mine straightened but still reasonable in my 
opinion. Buy the car, keep the hardtop and sell the car for good 
money..............an inexpensive way to get an original hardtop.
JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)


> it also looks like it has the original aluminum top piece, which is 
> extremely rare.  the hardtop might be worth the purchase price alone 
> <grin>

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Aug 29 18:51:10 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:51:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com><21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
	<53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>

Just out of interest, what tire pressures are people using in their TR3s,
4s, 250s and 6s?

Andrew Uprichard

From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug 29 19:20:14 2011
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:20:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com><21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com><53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
	<C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <8CE34CA1AE360C9-1EB4-A2EE@web-mmc-m08.sysops.aol.com>

 I run 28F 32R.

Dave








-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>


Just out of interest, what tire pressures are people using in their TR3s,
4s, 250s and 6s?

Andrew Uprichard

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 29 19:21:36 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 18:21:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com><21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
	<53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
	<C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <93A655E0-156C-499B-803D-C6F4385CF60D@comcast.net>

TR3   26 front, 28 rear ... TR6  24 front, 26 rear ...

On Aug 29, 2011, at 5:51 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:

> Just out of interest, what tire pressures are people using in their TR3s,
> 4s, 250s and 6s?
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> 



"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA	
Casper
1957 TR3
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net

From pfullam at nycap.rr.com  Mon Aug 29 20:22:06 2011
From: pfullam at nycap.rr.com (Peter)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 22:22:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com><21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
	<53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
	<C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <001e01cc66bb$9d632620$d8297260$@rr.com>

33 all around with 195-65s on a TR4

Pete Fullam

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 8:51 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tire pressures

Just out of interest, what tire pressures are people using in their TR3s,
4s, 250s and 6s?

Andrew Uprichard


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pfullam at nycap.rr.com

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Mon Aug 29 21:02:17 2011
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:02:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com><21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
	<53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
	<C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <1314673337.85286.YahooMailNeo@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

28f and 30r in 185/65 tires....Pat
TR4A, 67
1CTC/72746-L


From: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 5:51 PM
Subject: [TR] Tire pressures

Just out of interest, what tire pressures are people using in their TR3s,
4s, 250s and 6s?

Andrew Uprichard


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Mon Aug 29 21:50:47 2011
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:50:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
In-Reply-To: <B58B9208B63B4622B7AB990091D72ABB@userb38463fba5>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com><21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
	<53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
	<B58B9208B63B4622B7AB990091D72ABB@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <000001cc66c8$00e96590$02bc30b0$@rr.com>

Here's how the ad appeared in San Diego, with a little more explaination.
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/2566135019.html
Johnnie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
> Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 5:05 PM
> To: oliver; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
> 
> It's certainly worth the original purchase price of the car in 1964,
> maybe
> more but $6,000 is a push, especially now that good reproductions are
> available from England. The aluminum hardtop is a fragile piece, I
> spent
> some decent cash to get mine straightened but still reasonable in my
> opinion. Buy the car, keep the hardtop and sell the car for good
> money..............an inexpensive way to get an original hardtop.
> JVV
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 4:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
> 
> 
> > it also looks like it has the original aluminum top piece, which is
> > extremely rare.  the hardtop might be worth the purchase price alone
> > <grin>
> 
> 
> triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdonnel1 at san.rr.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Aug 29 22:35:25 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 04:35:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Dream Shop
In-Reply-To: <5E19511E79484BD3AA8949F3D52EA883@bboffice>
Message-ID: <332038204.645319.1314678925114.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Sounds like fun.  Is this is addition to the a garage for your daily drivers?  Still have that nice Focus and haulin' pickup?

I have my four vehicles packed into a 20 x 50, divided into a 20 x 20 garage and a 20 x 30 shop.  Of course, you have been there...

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: wbeech at flash.net
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>, british-cars at autox.team.net, mgs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 6:10:18 PM
> Subject: [TR] Dream Shop
> I have the unprecedented opportunity to move into a near-virginal
> 30x30 shop
> next week. Does anyone have any ideal plans as to a layout for a shop
> almost exclusively dedicated to the hobby?
> 
> There is a 12' wide O/H door at one end and a 10' wide door at the
> other. I
> am probably going to put my two workbenches. Bead blast cabinet and
> two roll
> around boxes on one wall with rack storage on the other. This still
> leaves
> me a lot of floor space for Tarbaby and I still need to have room for
> a few
> racks of parts and tools. Another want, after I recuperate
> financially,
> would be a lift. Please don't suggest another LBC, that would put me
> over
> the edge.
> 
> Any floor plan suggestions, drawings or pictures would be appreciated.
> Maybe I should invite Jay Leno over for a consult?
> 
> Have a great w/e!
> 
> TIA,
> Bill
> 
> 
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is
> called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Aug 29 22:48:02 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 23:48:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com><21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com><53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
	<C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <86071E6B676542A1A7C2E8EFD8E33072@bboffice>

28psi all around in my 3A with 165-R15 Khumhos as recommended by Hendrix
Wire Wheel.
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 7:51 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tire pressures

Just out of interest, what tire pressures are people using in their TR3s,
4s, 250s and 6s?

Andrew Uprichard


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Tue Aug 30 05:19:41 2011
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 07:19:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 Triumph for sale (San Bernardino)
Message-ID: <380-220118230111941306@M2W110.mail2web.com>

Judging by the original ad I'm guessing that the 72 pickup was a Ford
courier - that is exactly the color of my old 73 courier - Hally Orange
24839
My wife hated that color!

--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology -
http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Aug 30 08:33:58 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 09:33:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2 Photo on Ebay
In-Reply-To: <1314454450.53436.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1314454450.53436.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D823850C7A004266B8571D18852668EC@bboffice>

FYI,
Auction ended at $17,900, 23 bids, reserve NOT met. 
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 9:14 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR2 Photo on Ebay

     So I just looked at Ebay for collector cars and at the top of the page
showcased is a red TR2 with wide white walls with a blue Lotus Elise in the
background. It looks like the SF bay in the background and the pic could be
taken in Marin. Is this someone on the list?

http://www.ebaymotorsblog.com/1954-triumph-tr2/

     I am at work today and drove the TR3A to work at 5 AM on a cool
California morning.

     Bill Brewer


triumphs at autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Tue Aug 30 09:02:28 2011
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 08:02:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] tire pressures
Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C071BA44719@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>

TR6; 205/70-15

28F, 32R

I got there by taking the recommended pressures, 20F & 24R, and, figuring
original tires had a max pressure of 32psi, increased in proportion to the
44psi max on current tires.

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Aug 30 12:23:49 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 13:23:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 wiring schematic
Message-ID: <9730206.2711952.1314728629425.JavaMail.root@vms170029>


From anncarletta at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 30 13:53:03 2011
From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 12:53:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] What should I use on the Chrome?
Message-ID: <1314733983.23631.YahooMailClassic@web113807.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hi guys.  The chrome around the windshield and the gauges is pitting and
getting dull.  What's the best product to use to try and bring them back to a
shine?

Ann
1959 Triumph TR3A
1965 Daimler Saloon
1999 Jaguar Vanden Plas

From guy at genfiniti.com  Tue Aug 30 14:43:41 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 15:43:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] What should I use on the Chrome?
In-Reply-To: <1314733983.23631.YahooMailClassic@web113807.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1314733983.23631.YahooMailClassic@web113807.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AE65F674-EBD2-4EF6-B1B3-FFADB5DB9FCE@genfiniti.com>

I used steel wool, and it looks great.


On Aug 30, 2011, at 2:53 PM, Ann Carletta wrote:

> Hi guys.  The chrome around the windshield and the gauges is pitting and
> getting dull.  What's the best product to use to try and bring them back to
a
> shine?
>
> Ann
> 1959 Triumph TR3A
> 1965 Daimler Saloon
> 1999 Jaguar Vanden Plas
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Aug 30 14:44:52 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 16:44:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] My trunk looks like a junk yard - any Trunk organizer examples
 for TR4 out there?
Message-ID: <CANhzkePc_M1h68vg6422CdMbVGRouBy_hGNPyvwxC27h-ExPog@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all,

I've seen some pretty neat examples of trunk organizers for TR4's at various
shows over the years.

After looking at my rats nest of a trunk - and oil leaking on my top...
 It's time for me to make one, too.

If anyone has any good ideas or examples - pics are great -  I'd love to
hear/see them.

Feel free to contact me off or on  list if you like.

Thanks in advance

Chris

1963 TR4 - running well with the single barell MCHH webers but need to work
out some air cleaner mods......
1954 TR2 - running like a little scalded cat (and looking kinda like one)

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Aug 30 15:24:33 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 22:24:33 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] What should I use on the Chrome?
In-Reply-To: <AE65F674-EBD2-4EF6-B1B3-FFADB5DB9FCE@genfiniti.com>
References: <1314733983.23631.YahooMailClassic@web113807.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<AE65F674-EBD2-4EF6-B1B3-FFADB5DB9FCE@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <1314739473.27299.YahooMailNeo@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Given that all the chrome on Triumphs was the thinnest of 'flash' plating (and
only on the grounds of cost) I'd avoid steel wool at all costs. It leaves
minute scratches which will only worsen in time and likely compound a current
problem. A far safer and IMHO better option is either chrome cleaner (if you
can still get it?) or a non-abrasive metal polish or failing that, a light dab
of paint surface cleaner - such as T-Cut lightly dabbed on a soft cotton mesh
that's well soaked in water. When it's as clean as you can get it, polish off
with Mothers or Meguiars to give a good carnauba wax seal.
 
Jonmac
From: G.D.
Huggins <guy at genfiniti.com>
>To: Ann Carletta <anncarletta at yahoo.com>
>Cc:
triumphs at autox.team.net
>Sent: Tuesday, 30 August 2011, 21:43
>Subject: Re:
[TR] What should I use on the Chrome?
>
>I used steel wool, and it looks
great.
>
>
>On Aug 30, 2011, at 2:53 PM, Ann Carletta wrote:
>
>> Hi guys. 
The chrome around the windshield and the gauges is pitting and
>> getting
dull.  What's the best product to use to try and bring them back to
>a
>>
shine?
>>
>> Ann
>> 1959 Triumph TR3A
>> 1965 Daimler Saloon
>> 1999 Jaguar
Vanden Plas
>>
>>
>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com
>
>
>triumphs at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From hdrider570 at att.net  Tue Aug 30 15:27:40 2011
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 14:27:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tire pressures
Message-ID: <1314739660.25101.YahooMailClassic@web83806.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Tire pressure is a function of how many pounds of load the tire is actually supporting not a fraction of the ultimate design load limits of the tire.

If you run that much pressure the contact patch area will be greatly reduced and you will wear out the center of the tread first. 

Traction may or may not be effected.  Racers often run higher pressure to reduce sidewall flex and to have less heat gain. 

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 30 15:38:30 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 14:38:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] What should I use on the Chrome?
In-Reply-To: <1314733983.23631.YahooMailClassic@web113807.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1314733983.23631.YahooMailClassic@web113807.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <232501cc675d$29eb2ec0$7dc18c40$@rr.com>

> Hi guys.  The chrome around the windshield and the gauges is pitting
> and
> getting dull.  What's the best product to use to try and bring them
> back to a
> shine?

Fred Thomas recommended using diluted PPG DX579 "Metal Prep" (4 parts water,
1 part DX579), plus fine brass wool.  It works fantastic!  The original
windshield frame on my 56 TR3 was not just dull, but also brown and green
from corrosion.  After an hour or so with the DX579 & brass wool, I have
literally been asked where I had it rechromed!

I had to call around to local "automotive" paint stores to find one with
DX579 in stock.  The brass wool came from MMC.  Spray bottle from Home
Depot.

Unfortunately I don't have any before & after photos of the frame, but here
is a demonstration I did on a rocker cover.  This is literally less than 10
seconds worth of rubbing; it would have polished up much nicer if I had kept
working on it:
http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260/TR3driver/DX579/

According to Fred, the diluted DX579 will not harm paint as long as you keep
the surface wet.  But I have not tried that myself, opting instead to remove
the gauges from the panel to polish up the trim ring.

A coat of good wax will probably help preserve the chrome afterwards, but I
just used some Zymol.

-- Randall 

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Tue Aug 30 15:42:22 2011
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 17:42:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Tire Pressures
Message-ID: <3e68f.40598cf8.3b8eb33e@aol.com>

At the "other end of the gauge", my TR4A has 205/70R14 tires (on 
aftermarket Datsun 240Z 
Appliance mags) which I run at 23psi all around.   Steering at parking 
speeds is difficult, but any more pressure and the ride becomes very rough.   A 
7/8" front sway bar eliminated the need for more pressure in the rear tires. 
  Bump that up to 35-40psi for autocrossing, which the Pirellis are not 
very good at.   BTW, I also ran about 23psi on my MGA with TR6 wheels and 
195/65R15 Yokos.
George

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Aug 30 15:46:45 2011
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 21:46:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] What should I use on the Chrome?
In-Reply-To: <AE65F674-EBD2-4EF6-B1B3-FFADB5DB9FCE@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <65556884.754039.1314740805903.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I use steel wool andB  "B lue Magic" chrome polish available at Auto Zone,
etc.

Tom



----- Original Message -----


From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy at genfiniti.com>
To: "Ann Carletta" <anncarletta at yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 4:43:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] What should I use on the Chrome?

I used steel wool, and it looks great.


On Aug 30, 2011, at 2:53 PM, Ann Carletta wrote:

> Hi guys. B The chrome around the windshield and the gauges is pitting and
> getting dull. B What's the best product to use to try and bring them back to
a
> shine?
>
> Ann
> 1959 Triumph TR3A
> 1965 Daimler Saloon
> 1999 Jaguar Vanden Plas

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Aug 30 15:53:17 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 14:53:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] My trunk looks like a junk yard - any Trunk organizer
 examples for TR4 out there?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkePc_M1h68vg6422CdMbVGRouBy_hGNPyvwxC27h-ExPog@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkePc_M1h68vg6422CdMbVGRouBy_hGNPyvwxC27h-ExPog@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHfa4kkea1O=FxCzXqcbcK-u52gba0HPe-QW0OZcrTmCQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 1:44 PM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:

> If anyone has any good ideas or examples - pics are great -  I'd love to
> hear/see them.



On a road trip I like to take the top along just in case but the choice was
either pile stuff on top of it and risk damage or put it on top of
everything and have to move it every time I wanted to get at things.  So,
I made a box to hold the top under all the stuff:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox1.JPG
http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox2.JPG
http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox3.JPG
http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox4.JPG


For the parts and tools I use the soft bags sold at harbor Freight:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Tool%20Bags.JPG


For long trips I may also carry a HF suitcase of parts I would only bother
with if I was too far from home for a 200-mile AAA tow (water pump, wheel
bearings, mech fuel pump, etc):

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/toolsparts-1.jpg


Geo

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Aug 30 15:55:18 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 21:55:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Head Gasket Decision Time
In-Reply-To: <AE65F674-EBD2-4EF6-B1B3-FFADB5DB9FCE@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <1806332926.940210.1314741318759.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Okay.  Don't think archives are going to help with this one.
Blew a headgasket last season after 50k miles.  Replaced it, blew it again within 2k.
This time I had the head shaved (yep, it was indeed warped) and sourced a gasket from Gasketworks.  It came imprinted "TR4."  Don't think that makes a difference since the holes lined up.  
But...also asked for the rings to superglue around the chambers since one of my liners is no longer proud.  Installed it all. Reassembled everything, and poured coolant in.  Now have a steady stream of coolant coming from underneath the manifold.  Can't see it, but can't remember a freeze plug there, so conclude it's coming from the head/block because of a poor seal.
The gasket is not the usual type.  It's a flat sheet of copper.  And unlike Randall's fix, the rings were a thin band of steel.  So, ....
How likely is it that the block is warped too, or is it that the rings should be copper like Randall's so there's more compressability there.
Trying to figure out whether I just give up and pull the engine to break it all down and take to the machine shop, or whether I should mirror Randall's fix with the stock gasket and make my own rings to superglue on...out of copper this time.
Thoughts?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Aug 30 16:15:22 2011
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 18:15:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] What should I use on the Chrome?
In-Reply-To: <1314739473.27299.YahooMailNeo@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <1314733983.23631.YahooMailClassic@web113807.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<AE65F674-EBD2-4EF6-B1B3-FFADB5DB9FCE@genfiniti.com>
	<1314739473.27299.YahooMailNeo@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E5D60FA.90305@charter.net>

On 8/30/2011 5:24 PM, John Macartney wrote:
> iven that all the chrome on Triumphs was the thinnest of 'flash' plating (and
> only on the grounds of cost) I'd avoid steel wool at all costs. It leaves
> minute scratches which will only worsen in time and likely compound a current
> problem. A far safer and IMHO better option is either chrome cleaner (if you
> can still get it?) or a non-abrasive metal polish or failing that, a light dab
> of paint surface cleaner

I've heard of using crumpled aluminium foil, either with water or your 
favorite cola beverage.  Never tried it, but it sounds pretty benign, so 
I don't reckon it could hurt to try.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Aug 30 16:16:56 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 17:16:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] What should I use on the Chrome?
In-Reply-To: <1314733983.23631.YahooMailClassic@web113807.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1314733983.23631.YahooMailClassic@web113807.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <72AF4083F051425AA4513CE7CB5502C2@bboffice>

I use "Semi-Chrome" comes in a tube and is great for chrome or alloy
polishing.  I use it on my aluminum tailpipe extension and it shines like
chrome.  IF you need to use steel wool, only the finest grades are safe for
chrome for the reasons mentioned by Jon, grade "0000" or "00000" should be
good as I have used this to remove fine scratches and polish wood surfaces
as well.

Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ann Carletta
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 2:53 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] What should I use on the Chrome?

Hi guys.  The chrome around the windshield and the gauges is pitting and
getting dull.  What's the best product to use to try and bring them back to
a shine?

Ann
1959 Triumph TR3A
1965 Daimler Saloon
1999 Jaguar Vanden Plas


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Aug 30 16:17:54 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 15:17:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <86071E6B676542A1A7C2E8EFD8E33072@bboffice>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall>
	<CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com>
	<21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
	<53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
	<C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
	<86071E6B676542A1A7C2E8EFD8E33072@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bH_HXUT_B7yXmjzHSbOjp=YqNG=UjseMdHKBZM1547xVA@mail.gmail.com>

I guess this is an inexact science wherein you just have to experiment to
find what feels best.

I use 34F 36R in both 165-15s and 195/65-15s.  Slightly less with my Kuhmos
as they seem to have a high speed vibration that goes away if I lower the
pressure a couple of pounds.

Tire wear is very even (I don't think radials are as sensitive as bias ply
used to be) and the ride does not feel rough to me though maybe I'm just
used to it.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 30 17:06:43 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 16:06:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] What should I use on the Chrome?
In-Reply-To: <1314739473.27299.YahooMailNeo@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <1314733983.23631.YahooMailClassic@web113807.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<AE65F674-EBD2-4EF6-B1B3-FFADB5DB9FCE@genfiniti.com>
	<1314739473.27299.YahooMailNeo@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <235901cc6769$7c500df0$74f029d0$@rr.com>

> I'd avoid steel wool at all costs. It
> leaves minute scratches

Which was exactly the point of using brass (or bronze) wool instead of
steel.  The brass is considerably softer than chrome (or steel) and hence
less prone to scratch.  And while it's more expensive than steel wool (MMC
gets $4.12 for a package of 3 pads), it's a LOT cheaper than new chrome.

Steel wool is also prone to leave tiny particles of itself caught in any
pits in the chrome, which can later rust and make a mess.

-- Randall 

From Terry.Hickey at team.telstra.com  Tue Aug 30 17:12:16 2011
From: Terry.Hickey at team.telstra.com (Hickey, Terry)
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 09:12:16 +1000
Subject: [TR] Head Gasket Decision Time
In-Reply-To: <1806332926.940210.1314741318759.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <AE65F674-EBD2-4EF6-B1B3-FFADB5DB9FCE@genfiniti.com>
	<1806332926.940210.1314741318759.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <64473EF1F0A54842864852B4173F10FE23844B281D@WSMSG3154V.srv.dir.telstra.com>

Hi Terry,

I have used Randall's method, so far very successfully (fingers crossed). I
think one of the reasons that Randall's fix works is that the sandwich gasket
is compressible as is the soft copper wire. I think it would be less likely to
work with a solid copper gasket and steel rings.

I confirm that there is no freeze plug in the area of you leak.

Cheers
Terry2

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, 31 August 2011 7:55 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Head Gasket Decision Time

Okay.  Don't think archives are going to help with this one.
Blew a headgasket last season after 50k miles.  Replaced it, blew it again
within 2k.
This time I had the head shaved (yep, it was indeed warped) and sourced a
gasket from Gasketworks.  It came imprinted "TR4."  Don't think that makes a
difference since the holes lined up.
But...also asked for the rings to superglue around the chambers since one of
my liners is no longer proud.  Installed it all. Reassembled everything, and
poured coolant in.  Now have a steady stream of coolant coming from underneath
the manifold.  Can't see it, but can't remember a freeze plug there, so
conclude it's coming from the head/block because of a poor seal.
The gasket is not the usual type.  It's a flat sheet of copper.  And unlike
Randall's fix, the rings were a thin band of steel.  So, ....
How likely is it that the block is warped too, or is it that the rings should
be copper like Randall's so there's more compressability there.
Trying to figure out whether I just give up and pull the engine to break it
all down and take to the machine shop, or whether I should mirror Randall's
fix with the stock gasket and make my own rings to superglue on...out of
copper this time.
Thoughts?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire


triumphs at autox.team.net

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 30 17:28:29 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 16:28:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Head Gasket Decision Time
In-Reply-To: <1806332926.940210.1314741318759.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <AE65F674-EBD2-4EF6-B1B3-FFADB5DB9FCE@genfiniti.com>
	<1806332926.940210.1314741318759.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <235a01cc676c$877173b0$96545b10$@rr.com>

The solid copper gaskets are rather difficult to keep sealed, even when
everything is "just so", since they compress very little on installation.

My approach:

1) Pull the manifolds and make sure where the coolant is coming from.
Assuming it is the joint between head & block, pay particular attention to
that area once the head is off; looking for any gouges, cracks, raised
metal, etc.  In fact, if it is near one of the short studs, I would probably
remove the stud and rub a flat machinist's file over the area to pick up any
high spots.

2) Pull the head.  Use a good straightedge to check the block surface
(working around the liners) for flatness.  Also recheck protrusion on each
side of each liner.

3) Check that the head nuts spin easily all the way down the stud threads.
If they bind partway down, replace the stud.

4) Reassemble using a doctored standard gasket as I outlined before, using
solder instead of superglue.

The superglue was a suggestion from Ken Gillanders, and while it would
_probably_ work fine, I know that solder works.  The extra half hour sitting
at the dining room table (with lots of newspapers underneath) is a small
price to pay, IMO.

Wouldn't hurt to try to check the calibration of your torque wrench,
especially if you are using a 'clicker' type.  Maybe a friend has a beam
type you could borrow.

You may still need to tear the engine down, but all this could be completed
in a weekend (if you have the gasket & wire on hand).  IMO it's worth a try.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 30 17:41:25 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 16:41:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <1314739660.25101.YahooMailClassic@web83806.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1314739660.25101.YahooMailClassic@web83806.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <235b01cc676e$56151ef0$023f5cd0$@rr.com>

> If you run that much pressure the contact patch area will be greatly
> reduced and you will wear out the center of the tread first.

My experience with radials has been that, although the center does tend to
wear out first, the overall wear rate is usually reduced.  The tires
actually last longer even though they wear a bit funny.  Fuel consumption
usually improves a bit, too. 

Running higher than recommended air pressure also seems to improve handling,
both responsiveness and ultimate cornering power.  Too much can cause
handling problems though, including instability at speed and vibration.

So my approach in the past has been to start at the maximum pressure on the
sidewall, and carefully evaluate handling.  Then cut it by 4 psi and try
again.  When the handling starts to get worse, you've gone too far.

Don't forget to let the tire cool thoroughly before checking pressure.  The
measured pressure will definitely go up when the tire is warm; how much
depends on just how hot it is inside the tire.  The sidewall rating is
"cold".

If memory serves, last time I went through this exercise, I wound up at 32
front and 36 rear.  But that was some time ago, and with unusual size tires,
so may not apply to you.

You also failed to mention what aspects you want to emphasize.  Lower
pressures tend to give better ride quality and less noise/vibration (which
is the reason most OEMs go as low as they can on recommended tire pressure).

Personally, I drive the car because it's fun, not because it's cheap to
operate.
-- Randall 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 30 19:15:27 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 20:15:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] My trunk looks like a junk yard - any Trunk organizer
 examples for TR4 out there?
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bHfa4kkea1O=FxCzXqcbcK-u52gba0HPe-QW0OZcrTmCQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkePc_M1h68vg6422CdMbVGRouBy_hGNPyvwxC27h-ExPog@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bHfa4kkea1O=FxCzXqcbcK-u52gba0HPe-QW0OZcrTmCQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <264AB356A7944415AAADE0D612D8FB9E@ranteer.local>

beautiful, George.  very impressive.

btw Loews sells those bags too

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 4:53 PM
To: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] My trunk looks like a junk yard - any Trunk organizer 
examples for TR4 out there?

> On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 1:44 PM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> If anyone has any good ideas or examples - pics are great -  I'd love to
>> hear/see them.
>
>
>
> On a road trip I like to take the top along just in case but the choice 
> was
> either pile stuff on top of it and risk damage or put it on top of
> everything and have to move it every time I wanted to get at things.  So,
> I made a box to hold the top under all the stuff:
>
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox1.JPG
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox2.JPG
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox3.JPG
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox4.JPG
>
>
> For the parts and tools I use the soft bags sold at harbor Freight:
>
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Tool%20Bags.JPG

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Aug 30 19:55:08 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 21:55:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: TR3 wiring schematic
In-Reply-To: <9730206.2711952.1314728629425.JavaMail.root@vms170029>
References: <9730206.2711952.1314728629425.JavaMail.root@vms170029>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAKdK/8iqxs9Mkx7yr/ngrRwBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

For some reason when I send to autox through Verizonbs web interface it
arrives as a blank email.   Here is one of two



From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 2:24 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: TR3 wiring schematic



Found this TR3 wiring schematic on eBay (NFI).  Bought it and was able to
modify with very little effort to match what I have changed on my car.

1) relays/fuses for horn, headlights, and other accessories

2) spot/fog lamp circuit

3) third brake light (still in planning stages)

4) battery cut-off

etc



The file prints great at 36" x 24" or reduce to 8x11 for file copy in the shop
manual files.  After I printed the poster size I made some additional changes
and just printed a 8x11 of that section and trimmed/overlaid it.  I may or may
not print the larger poster again. (probably but no rush)



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR3A-schematic-/220842470771?pt=Vintag
e_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR3A-schematic-/220842470771?pt=Vinta
ge_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336b3cad73> &hash=item336b3cad73



Carl

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Aug 30 19:56:25 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 21:56:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Re: [British-cars] Dream Shop
In-Reply-To: <20644022.2710544.1314727849389.JavaMail.root@vms170029>
References: <20644022.2710544.1314727849389.JavaMail.root@vms170029>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAHU5GZVaModLvFn1ZqvZAbcBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

Here is the second



From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 2:11 PM
To: mikey at b2systems.com; british-cars at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Re: [British-cars] Dream Shop



I make it a point to at least sweep the floor and under all movable objects
once a month - much for the same reason.  I find boxes of stuff I haven't
touched for a month and mark it...  next month it goes to the secondary
storage shed;  I keep a running list of what is in there and if it hasn't been
used in a year - I try to find it a new home.



Junk does accumulate....  Quicker than you think.



Carl

(i am responding through a web interface - hopefully it will make it)





On 08/30/11, Mike Rambour<mikey at b2systems.com> wrote:

A shop should be a living breathing thing, I would not go with any
floorplan and instead spend a few hours walking around the empty space
and enjoying the space while its still empty and think about where to
put my tools/equipment/machinery, then move in. In a month or so, do
the same thing but this time of course its full of junk
(tools/equipment/machinery will feel like junk when it is in the wrong
place) and move things around.

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Aug 30 21:32:23 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 23:32:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] My trunk looks like a junk yard - any Trunk organizer
 examples for TR4 out there?
In-Reply-To: <264AB356A7944415AAADE0D612D8FB9E@ranteer.local>
References: <CANhzkePc_M1h68vg6422CdMbVGRouBy_hGNPyvwxC27h-ExPog@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bHfa4kkea1O=FxCzXqcbcK-u52gba0HPe-QW0OZcrTmCQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<264AB356A7944415AAADE0D612D8FB9E@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNwM7prgzLeyfbz5WM6=Z7Db4Udje6WKHYa6dyZ4c==Cw@mail.gmail.com>

I love it!!!!  Please keep the comments coming.

Chris
On Aug 30, 2011 9:50 PM, "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> beautiful, George. very impressive.
>
> btw Loews sells those bags too
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 4:53 PM
> To: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
> Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] My trunk looks like a junk yard - any Trunk organizer
> examples for TR4 out there?
>
>> On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 1:44 PM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> If anyone has any good ideas or examples - pics are great - I'd love to
>>> hear/see them.
>>
>>
>>
>> On a road trip I like to take the top along just in case but the choice
>> was
>> either pile stuff on top of it and risk damage or put it on top of
>> everything and have to move it every time I wanted to get at things. So,
>> I made a box to hold the top under all the stuff:
>>
>> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox1.JPG
>> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox2.JPG
>> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox3.JPG
>> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox4.JPG
>>
>>
>> For the parts and tools I use the soft bags sold at harbor Freight:
>>
>> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Tool%20Bags.JPG
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Aug 31 00:56:38 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 01:56:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Head Gasket Decision Time
In-Reply-To: <235a01cc676c$877173b0$96545b10$@rr.com>
References: <AE65F674-EBD2-4EF6-B1B3-FFADB5DB9FCE@genfiniti.com>
	<1806332926.940210.1314741318759.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<235a01cc676c$877173b0$96545b10$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20110831065704.5B7A318786B@autox.team.net>

Just to add a touch - I agree with everything Randall says.  This is 
more on the solder vs. superglue...  Uncle Jack has used the copper 
wire on the shim steel head gasket and always used super glue to hold 
it in place while torquing things up.  The superglue worked fine, so 
I would bet it would work fine on the composite gasket too.

Tony Drews

At 06:28 PM 8/30/2011, Randall wrote:
>The solid copper gaskets are rather difficult to keep sealed, even when
>everything is "just so", since they compress very little on installation.
>
>My approach:
>
>1) Pull the manifolds and make sure where the coolant is coming from.
>Assuming it is the joint between head & block, pay particular attention to
>that area once the head is off; looking for any gouges, cracks, raised
>metal, etc.  In fact, if it is near one of the short studs, I would probably
>remove the stud and rub a flat machinist's file over the area to pick up any
>high spots.
>
>2) Pull the head.  Use a good straightedge to check the block surface
>(working around the liners) for flatness.  Also recheck protrusion on each
>side of each liner.
>
>3) Check that the head nuts spin easily all the way down the stud threads.
>If they bind partway down, replace the stud.
>
>4) Reassemble using a doctored standard gasket as I outlined before, using
>solder instead of superglue.
>
>The superglue was a suggestion from Ken Gillanders, and while it would
>_probably_ work fine, I know that solder works.  The extra half hour sitting
>at the dining room table (with lots of newspapers underneath) is a small
>price to pay, IMO.
>
>Wouldn't hurt to try to check the calibration of your torque wrench,
>especially if you are using a 'clicker' type.  Maybe a friend has a beam
>type you could borrow.
>
>You may still need to tear the engine down, but all this could be completed
>in a weekend (if you have the gasket & wire on hand).  IMO it's worth a try.
>
>-- Randall
>
>
>triumphs at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Aug 31 01:04:31 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 02:04:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <235b01cc676e$56151ef0$023f5cd0$@rr.com>
References: <1314739660.25101.YahooMailClassic@web83806.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<235b01cc676e$56151ef0$023f5cd0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20110831070455.E9350187870@autox.team.net>

I play with the pressures to get the balance of the car to my 
liking.  Now, mine is a race car with vintage racing tires so the 
pressures aren't applicable to the street very much, but I found that 
if I dropped the rear pressures I could get the car to corner with a 
little bit of oversteer which can be fun and fast.  The normal 
"higher in the rear, lower in the front" seems to induce understeer 
in my experience.  I dislike understeer intensely, so play with the 
pressures in my toy cars to where that isn't a problem.  Now my VAN, 
I want certainly DO want to have understeer.

FWIW, I run 25 front and 23 rear with Hoosier Speedsters (cold 
pressures).  If I'm too sideways I'll bump it up to 23.5 rear.  When 
I ran Toyo Proxes they liked 38 to 40 PSI.  Street tires seem to have 
"floppy" sidewalls, so higher pressure to a point gives more crisp 
handling.  I tend to run my street tires near the max rated pressure 
imprinted on the sidewall of the tire.

Tony

At 06:41 PM 8/30/2011, Randall wrote:
> > If you run that much pressure the contact patch area will be greatly
> > reduced and you will wear out the center of the tread first.
>
>My experience with radials has been that, although the center does tend to
>wear out first, the overall wear rate is usually reduced.  The tires
>actually last longer even though they wear a bit funny.  Fuel consumption
>usually improves a bit, too.
>
>Running higher than recommended air pressure also seems to improve handling,
>both responsiveness and ultimate cornering power.  Too much can cause
>handling problems though, including instability at speed and vibration.
>
>So my approach in the past has been to start at the maximum pressure on the
>sidewall, and carefully evaluate handling.  Then cut it by 4 psi and try
>again.  When the handling starts to get worse, you've gone too far.
>
>Don't forget to let the tire cool thoroughly before checking pressure.  The
>measured pressure will definitely go up when the tire is warm; how much
>depends on just how hot it is inside the tire.  The sidewall rating is
>"cold".
>
>If memory serves, last time I went through this exercise, I wound up at 32
>front and 36 rear.  But that was some time ago, and with unusual size tires,
>so may not apply to you.
>
>You also failed to mention what aspects you want to emphasize.  Lower
>pressures tend to give better ride quality and less noise/vibration (which
>is the reason most OEMs go as low as they can on recommended tire pressure).
>
>Personally, I drive the car because it's fun, not because it's cheap to
>operate.
>-- Randall

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 31 05:17:08 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 04:17:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Tyre pressure/ Boot org.
Message-ID: <1314789428.17181.YahooMailNeo@web39407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
I just finished up reading my last 4 TRIUMPH Digest to now get a
chance to give my input.
 
Subject: Tyre pressure-
I go with 30# all around in
Veristines 165X15R. I do highway driving & back roads driving once I reach the
starting destination. Therefore; my tyres are hot to start the back-roads ride
& don't want to try to lower the pressure because of inaccurate readings
that I would receive.
 
 
Subject: Boot organizer- 
I carry A LOT of items in
case of road break-downs. So I would not be able to get all my equipment into
those small bags. I use 3 Castro oil case cartons. I tape the complete outside
of the boxes with clear packing tape (protects the box from outside dirt &
moisture, & gives added structural strength (to hold all the equipment
like:water/fuel pumps, complete distributor/coil ignition set, additional
spare parts, tools, etc. I also label what's in each box on BOTH inside top
flaps before clear taping that, too.Then I also carry a large cloth bag for 2
empty plastic beer mugs, extra clothes (cover-alls, warm jacket, flannel
shirt, etc.), Moss catalog for looking at the parts diagram, plus my Kennith
Ball repair manual with my 'TR4/A E-mail Manual CD taped in a pocket in the
back of the Ball manual. Then I place the tonnel cover, if up or if I'm using
the hood-stick cove instead while the top is down, on top of all the case
boxes along with a folding
 'SMALL' chair inside the packing bag (24" x 2" diameter). Now underneath the
top cover is my scissors jack underneath the inside spare wheel concave part,
being held down with the J-hook & wing nut. Around the outside of the spare
tyre, are 2 inner tubes rolled up (with baby power over them before rolling up
& placed inside shrink wrap bags), a first aid kit, 5 spare tyre valves inside
shrink wrap bag, & the jack handle.

This is another reason I keep the rear
tyres up at 30# to handle all the extra weight. I get about 30->32 MPH when on
trips. FWIW,

-Cosmo Kramer

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Wed Aug 31 07:27:16 2011
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 09:27:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] [TR} tire pressures
Message-ID: <000501cc67e1$b3898b20$1a9ca160$@net>

Tony Drews wrote:

>  I dislike understeer intensely.

 

To quote somebody (probably a rally driver) - 

"Understeer scares the driver, oversteer scares the passenger"