From emw327 at gmail.com  Fri Apr  1 03:30:18 2011
From: emw327 at gmail.com (=?UTF-8?B?ZW1haWwg4oWcIg==?=)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 12:30:18 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gearbox Oil
Message-ID: <AANLkTikskBWcPDKiSkNRnq9vAwu9BZ3kXnBjjnrDwGHq@mail.gmail.com>

Hello

I bought a 1959 TR3a.
I'm nut shure about the gearbox in it.

A TR3 Gearbox needs SAE 30 oil.
A TR4 gearbox needs SAE 90 oil.
Does anybody knows from what number of gearbox SAE 90 is needed.
I all ready drained it, so I don't know if its a synchronised first or not.

Greetings from Belgium

Guido

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Apr  1 06:34:30 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 09:34:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gearbox Oil
Message-ID: <16ede.4f95669d.3ac72e66@cs.com>

In a message dated 4/1/2011 5:48:29 AM Central Daylight Time, 
emw327 at gmail.com writes: 
> Hello
> 
> I bought a 1959 TR3a.
> I'm nut shure about the gearbox in it.
> 
> A TR3 Gearbox needs SAE 30 oil.
> A TR4 gearbox needs SAE 90 oil.
> Does anybody knows from what number of gearbox SAE 90 is needed.
> I all ready drained it, so I don't know if its a synchronised first or 
> not.
> 
> Greetings from Belgium
> 
> Guido
> 

Saludo, Guido.  This issue of oil ratings can be confusing.  The TR3 
specified SAE 30W engine oil.  The later models called for 90W hypoid gear oil.  
The viscosity rating of engine oil is performed at different temperatures 
than for gear oil.  As it works out the viscosity of 30W engine oil is nearly 
the same as 90W gear oil.

There are several different ratings for hypoid gear oil, as well.  Triumph 
specified GL4 gear oil.  Most of the gear oil available (at least here in 
the US) conforms to the newer standard GL5.  Do not use GL5 rated mineral oil 
as the sulfur content is too high for Triumph gear boxes.  The sulfur 
additives are harmful to the brass parts in the transmission.

You will be safe using non-detergent 30W engine oil in your TR3.  Many 
others have had good luck with synthetics.  I use Red Line MTL in my gear boxes 
but this is hard to find even over here.  Synthetic gear oils do not contain 
as much sulfur (if any at all) and will not harm the brass parts.

I hope this helps.  If you have any other questions feel free to ask.  
We're happy to help.

I hope this message finds you in good health and happiness.

Dave

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Apr  1 07:03:26 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 10:03:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR250 soft top and frame - question
In-Reply-To: <16ede.4f95669d.3ac72e66@cs.com>
References: <16ede.4f95669d.3ac72e66@cs.com>
Message-ID: <2CCB5B0E8BE54B1F82D78939115F216A@DCH6RFC1>

I am putting a Roll-bar and Surrey top in my 250 and so will have a soft top
and frame to sell.  Am I right in thinking they are unique to the 250 and
cannot be used on either the TR4 or TR6?

Andrew Uprichard


From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Apr  1 07:25:28 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 14:25:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR250 soft top and frame - question
In-Reply-To: <2CCB5B0E8BE54B1F82D78939115F216A@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <235880371.3469034.1301667928434.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, April 1, 2011 9:03:26 AM
> Subject: [TR] TR250 soft top and frame - question
> 
> I am putting a Roll-bar and Surrey top in my 250 and so will have a
> soft top
> and frame to sell.  Am I right in thinking they are unique to the 250
> and
> cannot be used on either the TR4 or TR6?
> 
> Andrew Uprichard


I would very much expect it to work with a TR4A.  Not a TR4.

Maybe a TR6 also.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Apr  1 07:59:22 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 14:59:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] silicon or regular brake fluic
In-Reply-To: <351923.10199.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <269595569.3471183.1301669962307.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

if you are starting with all clean new parts and lines, and are not taking the car to a race track, go silicone.

uncle jack was converted to silicone in the restoration, so I am sticking with it.  I have ATE Blue in the Lotus and run-of-the-mill DOT 5 in the streeters.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr  1 09:46:58 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 09:46:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gearbox Oil
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikskBWcPDKiSkNRnq9vAwu9BZ3kXnBjjnrDwGHq@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikskBWcPDKiSkNRnq9vAwu9BZ3kXnBjjnrDwGHq@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <16d901cbf08c$6b0b4720$0301a8c0@randall>

> A TR3 Gearbox needs SAE 30 oil.
> A TR4 gearbox needs SAE 90 oil.

Triumph's recommendation actually changed before the end of TR3 production,
around 1960.  If you check "Practical Hints for the Maintenance of the
Triumph TR3" P/N 501528 (which was effectively the TR3 owner's manual) sixth
edition, it specifies SAE 90 GL4 (gear oil) as well.

Supposedly, the reason for the change was that the factory was seeing too
many failures under warranty, and felt that the "extreme pressure" gear oil
would protect the gearbox thrust washers better than motor oil.

As Dave says, there has been a lot of concern that GL5 gear oil (which is
considered a supercession of the GL4 standard) may contain more of an
additive that can, over time, break down to produce sulfuric acid.  The
acid, although not very strong, can attack and degrade the thrust washers
and synchro rings (so-called "yellow metal" because they are alloys of
copper).  However, many GL4 oils also contain that additive, just not as
much of it.  So my personal suggestion is to look for an oil that also meets
the MT1 specification.  

MT1 (Manual Transmission-1) itself doesn't have much to do with our
gearboxes (it's for heavy duty, non-synchronized gearboxes like those found
on large trucks).  But it has a requirement for long-term, high temperature
stability that effectively bars the use of the additive that breaks down and
attacks yellow metal.

-- Randall  

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of email ? 
> <emw327 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, April 01, 2011 3:30 AM
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Gearbox Oil
> 
> Hello
> 
> I bought a 1959 TR3a.
> I'm nut shure about the gearbox in it.
> 

> Does anybody knows from what number of gearbox SAE 90 is needed.
> I all ready drained it, so I don't know if its a synchronised 
> first or not.
> 
> Greetings from Belgium
> 
> Guido
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com
> 


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Apr  1 14:42:54 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 17:42:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire water pump.
Message-ID: <BLU160-w24FD98D6171FF59151B0F5BABE0@phx.gbl>


The water pump on my spitfire has a plug on the top of the housing that I would guess to be for lubrication. I see nothing in the manual. What should I be using in there, if anything?
 
Thanks,
Marty  		 	   		  

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Apr  1 14:49:39 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 17:49:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3/4 block/head available
Message-ID: <BLU160-w410EA2CBD3E1DF16A5F10EBABE0@phx.gbl>


I have a block (minus liners, pistons, and rods) and a head. Crank is in the block and spins freely. All are RUSTY. I would guess you could deck the block, mill the head, grind the crank and it might be salvageable.  Free if you can use them. Have to come get them though. Northern Ohio. Zip 44044. I can load it into your truck. No shipping.  I can email you a picture if you are interested.  
 
Marty 		 	   		  

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Apr  1 16:15:25 2011
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 19:15:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Spitfire water pump.
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w24FD98D6171FF59151B0F5BABE0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w24FD98D6171FF59151B0F5BABE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CDBED9D0FD7B55-106C-271F2@webmail-m035.sysops.aol.com>


 According to my books, "Grease as recommended -- 5 strokes every 24,000 miles" (with the "recommended" grease being whatever you're using for other chassis lubrication, such as rear hubs or the steering rack).

 

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us
 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>



The water pump on my spitfire has a plug on the top of the housing that I would 
guess to be for lubrication. I see nothing in the manual. What should I be using 
in there, if anything?

 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr  1 17:17:19 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 17:17:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gearbox Oil
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikskBWcPDKiSkNRnq9vAwu9BZ3kXnBjjnrDwGHq@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikskBWcPDKiSkNRnq9vAwu9BZ3kXnBjjnrDwGHq@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <035001cbf0cb$55390a60$ffab1f20$@rr.com>

My previous reply was apparently too long, so here is the abbreviated
version:

> A TR3 Gearbox needs SAE 30 oil.
> A TR4 gearbox needs SAE 90 oil.
> Does anybody knows from what number of gearbox SAE 90 is needed.

The actual change point did not correspond to any change in the gearbox.
The factory switched back and forth several times, at one point saying
either one was OK (without overdrive as I recall).  However, around 1959,
they started specifying only "hypoid" GL4 gear oil.  Supposedly (3rd hand
from an ex-factory engineer) this was because they were having too many
failures under warranty, and felt that the gear oil would provide better
protection for the thrust washers.

The root of the GL4 vs GL5 controversy is a particular additive that is used
on some gear oils (both GL4 and GL5). The additive breaks down in use and
forms weak sulfuric acid, which can over time erode the synchro rings and
thrust washers.  I believe the secret to avoiding this additive is to look
for a gear oil that is also rated MT1. The MT1 specification includes a long
term, high temperature stability test, that the "bad" additive does not
meet.  I ran a GL5, MT1 gear oil in my TR3 differential (which also has
brass thrust washers) for 20 years of daily driving, and no ill effects
observed.  In fact, I credit the GL5 for making it live as long as it did,
since it was already badly worn when it came to me.

However, in my opinion, the absolute best oil for a TR gearbox is Redline
MT-90.  It is considerably more expensive than the other choices, but makes
the synchros work noticeably better than either motor oil or ordinary gear
oil.  Unfortunately it's rather hard to find at the store, so you pretty
much have to mail order it.  I just bought a case on eBay for a bit over
$12/quart with shipping.

-- Randall 


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Apr  1 18:03:46 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 21:03:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3/4 block/head available
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w410EA2CBD3E1DF16A5F10EBABE0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w410EA2CBD3E1DF16A5F10EBABE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU160-w1394BF39E25CB0B9989D89BAA10@phx.gbl>


Block and head have been claimed.
 
Marty
 
> From: trmarty at hotmail.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 17:49:39 -0400
> Subject: [TR] TR3/4 block/head available
> 
> 
> I have a block (minus liners, pistons, and rods) and a head. Crank is in the block and spins freely. All are RUSTY. I would guess you could deck the block, mill the head, grind the crank and it might be salvageable. Free if you can use them. Have to come get them though. Northern Ohio. Zip 44044. I can load it into your truck. No shipping. I can email you a picture if you are interested. 
> 
> Marty 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trmarty at hotmail.com
> 
 		 	   		  

From spamiam at comcast.net  Sat Apr  2 06:03:00 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 09:03:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A badge bar
Message-ID: <EDC8BD6755BF405493B992536081F123@I7Quad>

I am thinking of adding driving lights to my TR4A.  Due to the hood tipping forward, clearance is a real issue.  Positioning needs to be pretty tight to the grille so they won?t interfere with the hood.

I have not seen any commercial badge bars to which I might mount the lights.  Since the lights are heavier than badges, the bar would need to be pretty stable, too.  I saw that Moss sells clamps for stem-mount lights and the clamps fit a 3/4? diameter bar.  So, I am looking for a 3/4? diameter bar.

Any suggestions?

Alternatively, I might be able to fabricate my own bar and custom arms which would piggyback to the bumper mounts.  I see that 3/4? 304 stainless 16 gauge tube stock is not terribly expensive.  That would be a possibility, but I did not find any end caps that would be suitable.  Any suggestions on this approach?  Source for end caps that do not rely on a pipe thread?

-Tony

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Apr  2 06:44:31 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 09:44:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A badge bar
In-Reply-To: <EDC8BD6755BF405493B992536081F123@I7Quad>
References: <EDC8BD6755BF405493B992536081F123@I7Quad>
Message-ID: <201104020944.32884.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, April 02, 2011 09:03:00 am spamiam at comcast.net wrote:
> I am thinking of adding driving lights to my TR4A.  Due to the hood tipping
> forward, clearance is a real issue.  Positioning needs to be pretty tight
> to the grille so they won?t interfere with the hood.
> 
> I have not seen any commercial badge bars to which I might mount the
> lights.  Since the lights are heavier than badges, the bar would need to
> be pretty stable, too.  I saw that Moss sells clamps for stem-mount lights
> and the clamps fit a 3/4? diameter bar.  So, I am looking for a 3/4?
> diameter bar.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Alternatively, I might be able to fabricate my own bar and custom arms
> which would piggyback to the bumper mounts.  I see that 3/4? 304 stainless
> 16 gauge tube stock is not terribly expensive.  That would be a
> possibility, but I did not find any end caps that would be suitable.  Any
> suggestions on this approach?  Source for end caps that do not rely on a
> pipe thread?
> 
> -Tony
Tony,

I was in the same boat with my 63 4. I tried to get the bar to attach between 
the two over-riders but the bonnet would hit the bar when opened.

So I decided to fabricate a set of mounts that allowed me to install a 3/4 
inch chrome bar between the over-riders. The mounts attach to the license 
plate holes in the front and are made of 1/4 " bar steel and I had to add a 
set of mounts that act as a clamp to the rear to add stability. I made them so 
when I tightened them to the front bar mount they would clamp to the top rear 
of the bumper. 

In order to prevent scraping and scratching of the bumper I sprayed some of 
that plastic tool prep called "Plastic Dip" on the insides.

If you want a photo or 2 let me know.

The badge bar supports a fog and driving lamp plus the autox badge.

Bob

From spamiam at comcast.net  Sat Apr  2 08:14:07 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 11:14:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A badge bar
In-Reply-To: <201104020944.32884.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <EDC8BD6755BF405493B992536081F123@I7Quad>
	<201104020944.32884.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <3C638E1F2D9F416199CFECF1A5DBBA93@I7Quad>

Bob and Jerry

Thanks for your quick replies.

The bar as Jerry describes his is probably not going to work for me.  My tow 
loops on the front of the frame are filled with my front sway bar.  I 
managed to thread the bar through the loops, and it fits really well that 
way.  I did not have to cut the loops as some have done.

As Jerry says, if lights are mounted on his bar in the upright position, 
then they will interfere with the hood.  For those who didn't see his photo 
that he sent me, the bar comes up from below the bumper, and bends around in 
front of the bumper just inboard of the overriders, and extends probably 3" 
or 4" above the bumper.

If I had to fabricate brackets, What I had envisioned was a bracket that 
bolts to the frame with the bumper mounts, then comes up behind the bumper, 
then extends a little above the top of the bumper.  At that point a 3/4" 
stainless or chrome tube is  mounted transversely.  On that tube the lights 
are mounted.  Hopefully the clamps to the tube would hold securely enough 
that they will not twist on the tube, and the whole thing will be reasonably 
rigid to minimize vibration.

Probably any commercial bar that would allow fitting lights would have to be 
positioned in the same general place.

-Tony

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 9:44 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: spamiam at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A badge bar

On Saturday, April 02, 2011 09:03:00 am spamiam at comcast.net wrote:
> I am thinking of adding driving lights to my TR4A.  Due to the hood 
> tipping
> forward, clearance is a real issue.  Positioning needs to be pretty tight
> to the grille so they won?t interfere with the hood.
>
> I have not seen any commercial badge bars to which I might mount the
> lights.  Since the lights are heavier than badges, the bar would need to
> be pretty stable, too.  I saw that Moss sells clamps for stem-mount lights
> and the clamps fit a 3/4? diameter bar.  So, I am looking for a 3/4?
> diameter bar.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Alternatively, I might be able to fabricate my own bar and custom arms
> which would piggyback to the bumper mounts.  I see that 3/4? 304 stainless
> 16 gauge tube stock is not terribly expensive.  That would be a
> possibility, but I did not find any end caps that would be suitable.  Any
> suggestions on this approach?  Source for end caps that do not rely on a
> pipe thread?
>
> -Tony
Tony,

I was in the same boat with my 63 4. I tried to get the bar to attach 
between
the two over-riders but the bonnet would hit the bar when opened.

So I decided to fabricate a set of mounts that allowed me to install a 3/4
inch chrome bar between the over-riders. The mounts attach to the license
plate holes in the front and are made of 1/4 " bar steel and I had to add a
set of mounts that act as a clamp to the rear to add stability. I made them 
so
when I tightened them to the front bar mount they would clamp to the top 
rear
of the bumper.

In order to prevent scraping and scratching of the bumper I sprayed some of
that plastic tool prep called "Plastic Dip" on the insides.

If you want a photo or 2 let me know.

The badge bar supports a fog and driving lamp plus the autox badge.

Bob


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3546 - Release Date: 04/02/11


From tbe749 at aol.com  Sat Apr  2 09:41:53 2011
From: tbe749 at aol.com (Tom)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 12:41:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A badge bar
In-Reply-To: <EDC8BD6755BF405493B992536081F123@I7Quad>
References: <EDC8BD6755BF405493B992536081F123@I7Quad>
Message-ID: <5CC1A3E0-0040-4B70-ABD7-8AA65A50A3F2@aol.com>

Tony

We have an Amco bar on one of our 250's. We mount badges on it going upward from the bar without clearance problems. It is a large diameter piece and mounts to the bumper brackets and the frame. I suppose if you could find one lights could be mounted downward and adjusted properly as it's got a little bend to it. I believe these are called bumper bats or something like that. Not sure if the 4a is the same





Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 2, 2011, at 9:03 AM, <spamiam at comcast.net> wrote:

> 

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sat Apr  2 10:32:36 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 10:32:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] carlisle  Pa. may import
Message-ID: <597308.75211.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Listers,
Just wondering what the carlisle Pa. swap meet/show in May is like for people 
searching for LBC deals.  At this point in my restoration (tr-3) I'd be looking 
for pretty good stuff such as wheels (minilite type or wire), nice chrome 
bumpers/overiders and possibly a top.  I'm wondering in general how much stuff 
is usually there and whether its worth an approx. 800 mile drive.
thanks

gary n.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr  2 11:48:46 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 11:48:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gearbox Oil
In-Reply-To: <5FA0E82F-11C0-4C99-A1AD-BB12173B0617@gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikskBWcPDKiSkNRnq9vAwu9BZ3kXnBjjnrDwGHq@mail.gmail.com>
	<035001cbf0cb$55390a60$ffab1f20$@rr.com>
	<5FA0E82F-11C0-4C99-A1AD-BB12173B0617@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <185d01cbf166$996e1e00$0301a8c0@randall>


John Wise wrote:

> Everyone with 911s of my 911's vintage, uses SWEPCO 201 gear 
> lube in the tranny.  It meets GL-5, MT-1, & MIL-PRF-2105e.  
> Just wondering if you had heard anything about its use in TRs?

Sorry, don't know anything about it.  But sounds like it would probably be
OK.  Ken Gillanders wrote a few years back about some synthetics being too
"slick" for good synchro operation, but the SWEPCO claims it is compatible
with limited slip diffs (which also require a certain amount of friction for
operation) so perhaps that is not an issue with the SWEPCO 201.

> I am also interested in your comment about overdrives.  I am 
> assuming that your point was 90W should not be used in 
> over-drives.  Is that correct??

Not _my_ point.  That is one of the things that the factory waffled back and
forth on as well.  In 1954, they said NOT to use 90 weight in overdrives; in
1959 they said use ONLY 90 weight in overdrives.
http://tinyurl.com/3ogpwny

Apparently the deal was that Laycock (maker of the OD unit) felt that gear
oil would interfere with the proper operation of the A-type OD.
Standard-Triumph at first (accidentally?) ignored that advice, then embraced
it, then decided that gear oil reduced warranty returns overall.

This may have actually been an early symptom of the GL4 vs GL5 controversy,
as the OD also contains quite a few brass components to be slowly attacked
by the sulfur additive.  But Laycock only mumbled things about it degrading
the clutch linings, or causing 'sludging'.

Randall


From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sat Apr  2 12:59:08 2011
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 15:59:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A Driving Lights
Message-ID: <158076.75015171.3ac8da0c@aol.com>

Tony and others,
My suggestion to your dilemma is to buy a set of Hella H4 Halogen 
conversion headlights and forget the accessory driving lights.   The standard 55W/60W 
bulbs work well for me but you can fit uprated bulbs for greater intensity 
if desired.   I don't use an additional relay but it might be a good idea.
George

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr  2 15:27:01 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 15:27:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Driving Lights
In-Reply-To: <158076.75015171.3ac8da0c@aol.com>
References: <158076.75015171.3ac8da0c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <188401cbf185$169096b0$0301a8c0@randall>

> My suggestion to your dilemma is to buy a set of Hella H4 Halogen 
> conversion headlights and forget the accessory driving 
> lights.   

FWIW, I wasn't all that pleased with the Hellas I bought many years ago.
They looked good at first, but the reflectors dimmed with time and the lens
eventually fell off of one of them (while changing the bulb).  Plus I found
this really good deal on some Bosch units:
http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=0301600118

Haven't tried them yet, but they look good so far.  Even have a DOT stamp on
them, which the Hellas didn't.

Relays or not, be sure you get as much voltage as possible to the
headlights.  Even 0.1 volt can make a visible difference in light output.  I
found that I am losing voltage in both the original bulb connector, and the
original ground connection, as well as through the wiring and switches.  As
a result, at the moment, the side with relays is actually dimmer than the
side without!

-- Randall  



From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Apr  2 16:32:32 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 23:32:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Bosch H4 Lamps
In-Reply-To: <1348424432.483786.1301787042150.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1441000843.483860.1301787152538.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>





Thanks for the tip Randall. I just ordered a pair. If they don't work out, I'll return them to you. 



Ed Woods 

From trglory at verizon.net  Sat Apr  2 19:32:47 2011
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2011 22:32:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] carlisle  Pa. may import
In-Reply-To: <597308.75211.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <597308.75211.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <005701cbf1a7$6c82e060$4588a120$@net>

Hi Gary;

As Forrest Gump would say, going to Carlisle is like opening a box of
chocolates. You may run you entire shopping list or you may go home empty
handed. However, when you find the really top quality stuff you say that you
want, it won't be sold at bargain basement prices. With all the quality
internet sellers offering spring sales right now, I doubt that I would drive
800 miles just to try my luck.

If you do make the trek, you'll have fun even if you don't buy a single
thing. There are lots of great sights to see and things to experience. I'm
not one of them, but do try to stop by the Central PA Triumph Club tent on
the show field and ask for me. I enjoy seeing the face behind the email
address.

Joe Laurito

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 1:33 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] carlisle Pa. may import

Listers,
Just wondering what the carlisle Pa. swap meet/show in May is like for
people 
searching for LBC deals.  At this point in my restoration (tr-3) I'd be
looking 
for pretty good stuff such as wheels (minilite type or wire), nice chrome 
bumpers/overiders and possibly a top.  I'm wondering in general how much
stuff 
is usually there and whether its worth an approx. 800 mile drive.
thanks

gary n.
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net


From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr  3 08:36:42 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 07:36:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Hub races are parallel? -follow up
Message-ID: <285208.86538.qm@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!

This?year (around the beginning of Jan.) I asked the list about how to detect if 
the Front Hub Races are parallel. I want to thank everyone who replied, & I'm 
giving you the follow up on this thread.

It was pointed that the hub races could be placed in NOT parallel, but would be 
not likely because of the force placed on them when driving. Then I stated that 
I was having wheel wobble & thinking at?might have been the problem when I went 
to check it with a dial indicator. 


Again, thank you all for replying on different ways of setting this up to check 
the hub. 


I did use the dial indicator on the both sides to compare readings & check if 
the other hub was out, too. I took the?trouble hub reading to find it out .033" 
& the rotor out .003". The other side readings were? both within .003". 
Therefore I concluded that the hub was the problem. I then checked out another 
hub & rotor?to find that reading is with in?.003". 


Thus I?swapped the?bad hub?with the good one. 

I think the problem should be resolved, but?I would like another person to drive 
along side of me to check it out for sure when I driving around 65ish MPH.

I know the list is interested in reading follow ups & knowing that their input 
was used. THANK YOU ALL, again,?for your input.-Cosmo Kramer 

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Sun Apr  3 10:51:01 2011
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 12:51:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A engine vibration
In-Reply-To: <4D93A89E.7090802@charter.net>
References: <1399258150.294710.1301485121591.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4D93A89E.7090802@charter.net>
Message-ID: <8CDC036724E3ADD-1D8C-11FAA@webmail-m086.sysops.aol.com>

Hi All,

I just got my TR3A out of storage and it ran really well on the way home except that there was quite a lot of engine vibration sitting at idle.  Any ideas?

Thanks,
Ned Paulsen
Webster, NY

 

 


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at charter.net>
To: Bob Wanderer <rawanderer at comcast.net>
Cc: mntr3a <mntr3a at aol.com>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Mar 30, 2011 6:09 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Converting Triumph Spitfire to fully electric in 36 hours flat


On 3/30/2011 7:38 AM, Bob Wanderer wrote:

> Fascinating. Has part 2 come out yet?

>    



http://www.csmonitor.com/2007/0320/p20s01-sten.html



Took me a while to figure out that the story appeared 4 years ago.  A 

lot has changed since then...

_______________________________________________

Triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $11.47

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/npaul72464 at aol.com






 

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun Apr  3 11:08:00 2011
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 13:08:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lever Shock Rebuild
Message-ID: <FC03A7A68AFF4CB592E3BC7535C9C680@TRGUY>

I may have missed this in earlier posts, but who does the rebuild of lever shocks to make them very stiff for better handling?  I plan to do this upgrade and add Moss' upgraded leaf springs.  Anyone have a stock from TR4 sway bar?
Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
Mailtand FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Apr  3 11:54:37 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 12:54:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lever Shock Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <FC03A7A68AFF4CB592E3BC7535C9C680@TRGUY>
References: <FC03A7A68AFF4CB592E3BC7535C9C680@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <BANLkTim97=Y+fPet0VppadVgTOYw3A2-LA@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Apr 3, 2011 at 12:08 PM, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:

> I may have missed this in earlier posts, but who does the rebuild of lever
> shocks to make them very stiff for better handling?
>


Peter Caldwell
http://www.nosimport.com/

NFI

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U (with Peter's externally adjustable levers)
Highland Park, IL

From j.honor at comcast.net  Sun Apr  3 11:59:35 2011
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 12:59:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lever Shock Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <FC03A7A68AFF4CB592E3BC7535C9C680@TRGUY>
References: <FC03A7A68AFF4CB592E3BC7535C9C680@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <6295C3EC-45A8-48F9-8A07-04AA35BB1561@comcast.net>

Peter Caldwell at world wide auto parts Peter at nosimport.com does lever shock rebuilding and conditioning Regards Joe

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 3, 2011, at 12:08 PM, "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:

> I may have missed this in earlier posts, but who does the rebuild of lever shocks to make them very stiff for better handling?  I plan to do this upgrade and add Moss' upgraded leaf springs.  Anyone have a stock from TR4 sway bar?
> Thanks in advance,
> Jim Henningsen
> Mailtand FL
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/j.honor at comcast.net
> 

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sun Apr  3 12:39:01 2011
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 14:39:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lever Shock Rebuild
References: <FC03A7A68AFF4CB592E3BC7535C9C680@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <C66062CAB3294CB6A978C866759007EC@Alan>

White Post and Apple  are the first two that come to mind.
I was told that using an MG front valve is what does the trick.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 1:08 PM
Subject: [TR] Lever Shock Rebuild


>I may have missed this in earlier posts, but who does the rebuild of lever 
>shocks to make them very stiff for better handling?  I plan to do this 
>upgrade and add Moss' upgraded leaf springs.  Anyone have a stock from TR4 
>sway bar?
> Thanks in advance,
> Jim Henningsen
> Mailtand FL
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net
>
> 



From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Apr  3 13:32:23 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 13:32:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3A engine vibration
In-Reply-To: <8CDC036724E3ADD-1D8C-11FAA@webmail-m086.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1399258150.294710.1301485121591.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4D93A89E.7090802@charter.net>
	<8CDC036724E3ADD-1D8C-11FAA@webmail-m086.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <AB746E6A-4686-4AD5-8EAE-7F92F395E28E@flash.net>

I'd start with a new set of plugs. 

Sent from mobile Bill

On Apr 3, 2011, at 10:51 AM, npaul72464 at aol.com wrote:

> Hi All,
> 
> I just got my TR3A out of storage and it ran really well on the way home except that there was quite a lot of engine vibration sitting at idle.  Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ned Paulsen
> Webster, NY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at charter.net>
> To: Bob Wanderer <rawanderer at comcast.net>
> Cc: mntr3a <mntr3a at aol.com>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Mar 30, 2011 6:09 pm
> Subject: Re: [TR] Converting Triumph Spitfire to fully electric in 36 hours flat
> 
> 
> On 3/30/2011 7:38 AM, Bob Wanderer wrote:
> 
>> Fascinating. Has part 2 come out yet?
> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.csmonitor.com/2007/0320/p20s01-sten.html
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a while to figure out that the story appeared 4 years ago.  A 
> 
> lot has changed since then...
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/npaul72464 at aol.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 

From boggiano at charter.net  Sun Apr  3 14:12:54 2011
From: boggiano at charter.net (Tom Boggiano)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 16:12:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pictures of a TR4 interior with the TRF carpet harward kit
Message-ID: <38C50A0ED8014AFC9E64E9683398F903@CR.LOCAL>

Hi All

Does anyone have pictures of the interior of their tr4 showing where the different snaps and such go on the carpet that they could send me. 
Looking through the bits of things in the bag I have a general idea where they go but would love some pictures before I install anything 

Thanks
Tom  

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Apr  3 15:06:13 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 15:06:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3A engine vibration
In-Reply-To: <AB746E6A-4686-4AD5-8EAE-7F92F395E28E@flash.net>
References: <1399258150.294710.1301485121591.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4D93A89E.7090802@charter.net>
	<8CDC036724E3ADD-1D8C-11FAA@webmail-m086.sysops.aol.com>
	<AB746E6A-4686-4AD5-8EAE-7F92F395E28E@flash.net>
Message-ID: <504FFFE7A7B74B5C89C8DC210093BB95@bboffice>

And a fresh tank of gas...

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] 
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 1:32 PM
To: npaul72464 at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A engine vibration

I'd start with a new set of plugs. 

Sent from mobile Bill

On Apr 3, 2011, at 10:51 AM, npaul72464 at aol.com wrote:

> Hi All,
> 
> I just got my TR3A out of storage and it ran really well on the way home
except that there was quite a lot of engine vibration sitting at idle.  Any
ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ned Paulsen
> Webster, NY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at charter.net>
> To: Bob Wanderer <rawanderer at comcast.net>
> Cc: mntr3a <mntr3a at aol.com>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Mar 30, 2011 6:09 pm
> Subject: Re: [TR] Converting Triumph Spitfire to fully electric in 36 
> hours flat
> 
> 
> On 3/30/2011 7:38 AM, Bob Wanderer wrote:
> 
>> Fascinating. Has part 2 come out yet?
> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.csmonitor.com/2007/0320/p20s01-sten.html
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a while to figure out that the story appeared 4 years ago.  A
> 
> lot has changed since then...
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/npaul72464 at aol.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Apr  3 15:17:30 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 14:17:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Driving Lights
In-Reply-To: <188401cbf185$169096b0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <158076.75015171.3ac8da0c@aol.com>
	<188401cbf185$169096b0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <BANLkTim0ddTKOnpxwNDaKdbw=Of0SxY4qQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 3:27 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> ...I found this really good deal on some Bosch units:
> http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=0301600118
>
> Haven't tried them yet, but they look good so far.  Even have a DOT stamp
> on
> them, which the Hellas didn't.
>

I use these and they seem fine.  I do have a couple of relays in place to
improve current and also spare the dash switch from carrying all the load.
In the interest of full disclosure (on mine anyway) the DOT stamp also says
'motorcycle'.  No idea what the difference is, possibly Ron at the Bus Depot
just took advantage of an oversupply of Harley Davidson lights.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Apr  3 15:23:33 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 14:23:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A engine vibration
In-Reply-To: <AB746E6A-4686-4AD5-8EAE-7F92F395E28E@flash.net>
References: <1399258150.294710.1301485121591.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4D93A89E.7090802@charter.net>
	<8CDC036724E3ADD-1D8C-11FAA@webmail-m086.sysops.aol.com>
	<AB746E6A-4686-4AD5-8EAE-7F92F395E28E@flash.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimUX_itjwVEqoxdNoUqY_CTW7i+GA@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Apr 3, 2011 at 12:32 PM, Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I'd start with a new set of plugs.


Or at least start with a good look at the plugs & points.

I've driven a 3-cylinder Triumph and it actually ran pretty well but idled
lousy.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Apr  3 15:26:45 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 14:26:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pictures of a TR4 interior with the TRF carpet harward kit
In-Reply-To: <38C50A0ED8014AFC9E64E9683398F903@CR.LOCAL>
References: <38C50A0ED8014AFC9E64E9683398F903@CR.LOCAL>
Message-ID: <BANLkTime+LrJerxkWzLFCmXgTy0+uCgsHQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Apr 3, 2011 at 1:12 PM, Tom Boggiano <boggiano at charter.net> wrote:

> Does anyone have pictures of the interior of their tr4 showing where the
> different snaps and such go on the carpet...


Here's a view of the snaps on the tunnel which are perhaps the least obvious
and most likely to have gone AWOL:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Tunnel%20Chart.JPG

Geo

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sun Apr  3 16:08:19 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 17:08:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Registration & Inspection in Texas
Message-ID: <5C697A20-3206-4CB0-87ED-0FB36788E63D@genfiniti.com>

All,

As I work on completing the restoration over the spring, I am turning my mind to the after hassles; namely registration and inspection.
I have the title to car, signed over by mom. (Thanks mom.)  But, the car hasn't been driven in Texas since 1988.

From what I can tell, I will have to register the car, transferred to my ownership.
I will register the car as a "Classic", since the "Antique" designation is very limited.

Does anyone have any experience with registering your car as a "classic".  Did that include a simultaneous ownership transfer?
If so, can you share with me?  How did that designation impact the inspection requirements?
Do they inspect the car based on the requirements for the year it was made?  Or do they expect it to be like a brand new car, and inspect it according to those rules?

Any shared experiences would be greatly appreciated.




Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Apr  3 16:25:27 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 16:25:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Moss Motors Red TR3  interior
Message-ID: <9A849CD6F47B4F3A8AC687DD6FB3AF06@bboffice>

Well, I thought I had a great deal on a rear seat for my TR3 but turns out
that the Moss Motor's red is much darker.
 
Good news is that the guy that sold it to me will take it back, but before I
ship it to him is there anyone on the list that would like to have this at a
fraction of the original cost.  No profit to me, just trying to pass along a
good deal that I was not able to use.
 
The seat fits all TR3(bottom only) & 3A up to TS-60000, the brackets are for
a TR3 but Joe Laurito was kind enough to supply a detailed drawing to make
the 3A brackets if you need them.  

Contact me off-line if you are interested.
 

Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Apr  3 18:28:19 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 20:28:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Registration & Inspection in Texas
In-Reply-To: <5C697A20-3206-4CB0-87ED-0FB36788E63D@genfiniti.com>
References: <5C697A20-3206-4CB0-87ED-0FB36788E63D@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <C6834D2079F84C9494749C74840270D0@BobPC>

Every state is different but this site might be of help as it covers each 
state separately  http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?id=62843  or 
http://is.gd/q6W8j1

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: G.D. Huggins
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 6:08 PM
To: RedRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Registration & Inspection in Texas

All,

As I work on completing the restoration over the spring, I am turning my 
mind to the after hassles; namely registration and inspection.
I have the title to car, signed over by mom. (Thanks mom.)  But, the car 
hasn't been driven in Texas since 1988.

>From what I can tell, I will have to register the car, transferred to my 
>ownership.
I will register the car as a "Classic", since the "Antique" designation is 
very limited.

Does anyone have any experience with registering your car as a "classic". 
Did that include a simultaneous ownership transfer?
If so, can you share with me?  How did that designation impact the 
inspection requirements?
Do they inspect the car based on the requirements for the year it was made? 
Or do they expect it to be like a brand new car, and inspect it according to 
those rules?

Any shared experiences would be greatly appreciated.




Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph





_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From spamiam at comcast.net  Sun Apr  3 19:34:12 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 21:34:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 118
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1301853602.14394.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1301853602.14394.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <462BC7775EAE4019BB09FFB243890E69@I7Quad>

Randall & George,

You both made the same suggestion. trash the old lights and get some good 
H4's.  Good suggestion.  Great, actually.

But.... I so enter concours shows periodically.  I am proud of the fact that 
I have to ORIGINAL Lucas headlights.  Probably I would get no deduction for 
H4 replacements.  Also, I think that the driving lights look good.

Fortunately, the brackets I will make are not going to be irreversible....

-Tony

-----Original Message----- Message: 2
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 15:27:01 -0700
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Driving Lights
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <188401cbf185$169096b0$0301a8c0 at randall>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

> My suggestion to your dilemma is to buy a set of Hella H4 Halogen
> conversion headlights and forget the accessory driving
> lights.

FWIW, I wasn't all that pleased with the Hellas I bought many years ago.
They looked good at first, but the reflectors dimmed with time and the lens
eventually fell off of one of them (while changing the bulb).  Plus I found
this really good deal on some Bosch units:
http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=0301600118

Haven't tried them yet, but they look good so far.  Even have a DOT stamp on
them, which the Hellas didn't.

Relays or not, be sure you get as much voltage as possible to the
headlights.  Even 0.1 volt can make a visible difference in light output.  I
found that I am losing voltage in both the original bulb connector, and the
original ground connection, as well as through the wiring and switches.  As
a result, at the moment, the side with relays is actually dimmer than the
side without!

-- Randall


From guy at genfiniti.com  Sun Apr  3 21:30:33 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 22:30:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Windshield Frame Conundrum
Message-ID: <DBEE90B4-9500-456A-AC3E-625DA1868332@genfiniti.com>

All,

OK... this is good.

Tonight I set about working on the hood frame.
I got it bolted into the tub in the rear, added the "male" latch parts to the header rail, then went to add the "female" latch halves to the windshield frame.
I poked the holes for the small bolts through the new plastic covering, started to turn the bolts to tighten, but got no grip.
"Odd", I thought..  So, I got to poking around and discovered that there is nothing there for them to tighten into!

I suspect there was, at one point, a metal plate with threaded holes within the frame, and it has since slid somewhere inside the frame itself.
Can anyone help?

Is it time for a powerful magnet?  Maybe some sort of pressure-based fastener?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Mon Apr  4 01:34:55 2011
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (Sandra and Trevor Hardy)
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2011 19:34:55 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Windshield Frame Conundrum
References: <DBEE90B4-9500-456A-AC3E-625DA1868332@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <A391A70763B347DF8BEB7492BE04A456@hardypc>


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy at genfiniti.com>
To: <RedRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 3:30 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Windshield Frame Conundrum


> All,
>
> OK... this is good.
>
> Tonight I set about working on the hood frame.
> I got it bolted into the tub in the rear, added the "male" latch parts to 
> the header rail, then went to add the "female" latch halves to the 
> windshield frame.
> I poked the holes for the small bolts through the new plastic covering, 
> started to turn the bolts to tighten, but got no grip.
> "Odd", I thought..  So, I got to poking around and discovered that there 
> is nothing there for them to tighten into!
>
> I suspect there was, at one point, a metal plate with threaded holes 
> within the frame, and it has since slid somewhere inside the frame itself.
> Can anyone help?
>
> Is it time for a powerful magnet?  Maybe some sort of pressure-based 
> fastener?
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz
>
> 



From lee at automate-it.com  Mon Apr  4 14:19:26 2011
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 15:19:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Registration & Inspection in Texas
In-Reply-To: <5C697A20-3206-4CB0-87ED-0FB36788E63D@genfiniti.com>
References: <5C697A20-3206-4CB0-87ED-0FB36788E63D@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <a9e0fe96f25023dd86ca6796877cae69.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

Hello Guy -

I did this just a couple of years ago, but my '74 is a few years younger than
your '65.

Here's what I did, in this order:

 - Get a clear title in my name.

 - Get it insured (required before you get inspected).

 - Register and get plates. In Texas (and most other states) you can get
year-of-manufacture plates for classic cars. I found a pair of never-issued
'74 plates; you have to take these in (BOTH of them!) to the tax office so
they can inspect them before they let you register them. I think I pay an
extra $25 (or so) per year for the privilege.

 - Get all the safety items working, then go get it inspected. Here's the list
that I found on one of the tx.gov sites. It tells you which years are
affected:

05.01 Inspect Every Passenger Car For: (Listed in suggested order of inspection)

* Check for evidence of Financial Responsibility

1. Horn
2. Windshield Wipers
3. Mirror
4. Steering
5. Seat Belts
6. Brakes (system) (Parking - beginning with 1960 models)
7. Tires
8. Wheel Assembly
9. Exhaust System
10. Exhaust Emission System (beginning with 1968 models)
11. Beam Indicator (beginning with 1948 models)
12. Tail Lamps (2); (1) if 1959 model or earlier
13. Stop Lamps (2); (1) if 1959 model or earlier
14. License Plate Lamp (1)
15. Rear Red Reflectors (2)
16. Turn Signal Lamps (beginning with 1960 models)
17. Head Lamps (2)
18. Motor, Serial, or Vehicle Identification Number
19. 1988 & newer - inspect for window tinting or coating
20. Gas caps on vehicles 2-24 model years old.

The only thing I had to do much work on was the license plate lamp; required a
new assembly.

Now, go out and drive!!!!

 - Lee
  '74 TR6
  The Woodlands, TX


From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Apr  4 18:28:45 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 00:28:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Grant ring set question
Message-ID: <387615361.593590.1301963325647.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>






List, 



I'm attempting to fit a new Grant piston ring set to a set of used, AE brand, 86mm, TR4 pistons. 




In attempting to assemble the 3 piece oil control ring, I found that the expander-spacer is too long, preventing the installation of the two other rings of this set. The expander-spacer also does not fit the bore. No big surprise, but I thought I'd check it in the bore as well as on the piston. All other rings, compression and oil, fit the 86mm std. bore with a .012 gap. 



I tried the oil control ring set from the second Grant ring set with the same result. 



The (used) pistons are British made AE, 4 ring. They were installed with the current liners as the engine came to me. There is virtually no wear in piston or liner. The liners were honed to break the glaze. 



I have on hand two sets of Grant rings for these pistons. 



A few questions for the List: 



1. Has anyone experienced this problem with Grant ring sets? 

2. Should I just forget about the expander ring set and use a single, plain oil ring above the wrist pin? 

3. Should I use two standard oil rings, one above and one below the wrist pin by using an additional ring from the second ring set? 



Any insights/comments welcome. 

Ed Woods 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr  4 19:15:05 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 18:15:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Grant ring set question
In-Reply-To: <387615361.593590.1301963325647.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <387615361.593590.1301963325647.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004101cbf32e$e62a2d00$b27e8700$@rr.com>

Ed,

If you must use those antique pistons, I would suggest contacting Grant to
see if they can make an oil control ring that will fit properly in the third
groove (and leave the 4th empty).

-- Randall 


From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Tue Apr  5 05:05:44 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 07:05:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Radiator Shroud
Message-ID: <6A439464861448CA843AE70495131E17@userb38463fba5>

List

I've had the pleasure to work with Richard Good over the last few months as he developed a SS Radiator Shroud for the TR4A. The finished product is very nice and I highly recommend it. As normally is the case it's made with care and quality materials. It's not yet listed in his paper catalog, maybe on the website, but an e-mail to Richard can get one in the mail to you. 
He has also developed Shrouds for the TR4 as well as the TR250.

Website   www.goodparts.com
e-mail goodparts at verizon dot net

JVV

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Apr  5 05:17:59 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 07:17:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Windshield Frame Conundrum
In-Reply-To: <DBEE90B4-9500-456A-AC3E-625DA1868332@genfiniti.com>
References: <DBEE90B4-9500-456A-AC3E-625DA1868332@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <201104050718.00384.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, April 03, 2011 11:30:33 pm G.D. Huggins wrote:
> All,
> 
> OK... this is good.
> 
> Tonight I set about working on the hood frame.
> I got it bolted into the tub in the rear, added the "male" latch parts to
> the header rail, then went to add the "female" latch halves to the
> windshield frame. I poked the holes for the small bolts through the new
> plastic covering, started to turn the bolts to tighten, but got no grip.
> "Odd", I thought..  So, I got to poking around and discovered that there
> is nothing there for them to tighten into!
> 
> I suspect there was, at one point, a metal plate with threaded holes within
> the frame, and it has since slid somewhere inside the frame itself. Can
> anyone help?
> 
> Is it time for a powerful magnet?  Maybe some sort of pressure-based
> fastener?
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
> 
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
> 
Guy,

Yes there is a metal plate set inside the B post and it must have slipped a 
bit. You will have to remove the interior parts in order to locate them. 
Unless something is very wrong, they wouldn't have slipped too far.

You should be able to pull them back into position with a small phillips 
screwdriver. Once in place, poke the screwdriver through the B post interior 
piece and replace the piece which will keep the plate aligned. Tricky but do-
able.

If you are lucky, you may not have to remove the interior, just poke around 
with the screwdriver or better an awl.

Unless the plate fell out you should be able to locate the plate.

Bob

From spamiam at comcast.net  Tue Apr  5 07:12:54 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 13:12:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Power budget woes, was re: driving lights
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3310.1301902545.3241.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1594796732.563363.1302009174571.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



I had written a thread about how to mount driving lights on my 4A.? After some brief thought, I suddenly had a sinking feeling about where all this light was going to come from! 



The driving lights are rated at 55W/12V, and so are the headlights.? that means each bulb will draw 4.6A.? That amounts to 18.3A when the driving lights are in use.? The generator is good for 22A.? That means that I am left with 3.6A for EVERYTHING else.? The ignition alone is at least 2A, and all the running lights are certainly at least 3 more amps, and probably double that.. 



My energy budget goes into the negative zone as soon as I use the driving lights!!!!? I wouldn't be surprised if I am drawing 5+ amps more than the generator will supply!? Not a problem if I had an alternator....? Which I don't. 



So, I just ordered the H4 lights from BUSDEPOT as mentioned in a previous thread.? I think I will get the relay wiring harness from VB.? Moss has a kit for headlight relays what costs $130!? I wonder what the extra $90 gets me compared to the VB kit.? 



-Tony

From trglory at verizon.net  Tue Apr  5 09:32:54 2011
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2011 11:32:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Power budget woes, was re: driving lights
In-Reply-To: <1594796732.563363.1302009174571.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <mailman.3310.1301902545.3241.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<1594796732.563363.1302009174571.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003901cbf3a6$bc770af0$356520d0$@net>

And if you like to stay warm in the evening, don't forget to save a few amps for your heater fan! I did the same math and came to the same conclusion. That's why I bought an alternator conversion from British Wiring.

Joe Laurito

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spamiam at comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2011 9:13 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Power budget woes, was re: driving lights



I had written a thread about how to mount driving lights on my 4A. After some brief thought, I suddenly had a sinking feeling about where all this light was going to come from! 



The driving lights are rated at 55W/12V, and so are the headlights. that means each bulb will draw 4.6A. That amounts to 18.3A when the driving lights are in use. The generator is good for 22A. That means that I am left with 3.6A for EVERYTHING else. The ignition alone is at least 2A, and all the running lights are certainly at least 3 more amps, and probably double that.. 



My energy budget goes into the negative zone as soon as I use the driving lights!!!! I wouldn't be surprised if I am drawing 5+ amps more than the generator will supply! Not a problem if I had an alternator.... Which I don't. 



So, I just ordered the H4 lights from BUSDEPOT as mentioned in a previous thread. I think I will get the relay wiring harness from VB. Moss has a kit for headlight relays what costs $130! I wonder what the extra $90 gets me compared to the VB kit. 



-Tony
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net



From triumphsearch at yahoo.com  Tue Apr  5 11:07:17 2011
From: triumphsearch at yahoo.com (Jeremy Kinney)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 10:07:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A Dual Exhaust Question
Message-ID: <813110.49141.qm@web113914.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Does anyone have the measurement for the distance between the two rear tailpipes and the rear bumper on a TR4A?  I need to tweak my rear pipes to keep them from turning my newly chromed bumper blue.

Thanks,
Jeremy Kinney
'66 TR4A



      

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Tue Apr  5 13:08:20 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 15:08:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Dual Exhaust Question
In-Reply-To: <813110.49141.qm@web113914.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20110405190821.0W8V3.142799.root@cdptpa-web28-z02>

It may well be how far beyond the bumper they protrude as well as how close they are to the bumper. Regardless I seem to get soot and deposits on the bumper as well as the trunk lid on long runs at speed. I just got used to cleaning the bumper or lid more frequently. But blue tells me that there is excessive heat so the conclusion is they are too close. I saw your post on the British Car Forum regarding how the PO hung the system under the frame and that you were correcting that. Just doing that may allow you to move the tips down and out away from the bumper as the stock mounting results in them being well placed. I can send you my actual dimensions later tonight for what it's worth. (Not much in my opinion)

JVV


---- Jeremy Kinney <triumphsearch at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Does anyone have the measurement for the distance between the two rear tailpipes and the rear bumper on a TR4A?  I need to tweak my rear pipes to keep them from turning my newly chromed bumper blue.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jeremy Kinney
> '66 TR4A
> 
> 
> 
>       
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com
>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Apr  5 14:44:24 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 13:44:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Dual Exhaust Question
In-Reply-To: <813110.49141.qm@web113914.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <813110.49141.qm@web113914.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <01bd01cbf3d2$40af8ec0$c20eac40$@rr.com>

> I need to tweak my rear pipes
> to keep them from turning my newly chromed bumper blue.

If the exhaust is still hot enough to turn chrome blue at the end of the
tailpipe, I suspect your EGT is way too high.  Since high EGT can do a whole
lot worse than turn the bumper blue, I'd double-check that first.

My 3A had a chrome tip on the exhaust, and it never turned blue even after
long periods at full chat.

-- Randall 


From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Apr  5 20:10:14 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 19:10:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] exhaust resinator
Message-ID: <153499.51738.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Another question on exhaust.  Whats the purpose of a resinator and how is it 
different from a muffler?  I'm thinking of making up my own exhaust system (dual 
pipes from manifold to tailpipe) and thinking of eliminating the 
resonators.........going with glass packs. 

just curious

thanks

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Apr  5 20:42:52 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 19:42:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] exhaust resinator
In-Reply-To: <153499.51738.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <153499.51738.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <006301cbf404$53e69ce0$fbb3d6a0$@rr.com>

> Whats the purpose of a resinator and how
> is it different from a muffler?  

AFAIK, it's just a difference in terminology, used by Moss to differentiate
between the two mufflers.  The factory parts catalog calls them both
"silencers", and they appear identical except for length.  At least on the
TR3, both were originally glasspacks (although aftermarket glasspacks are
better made, IMO).

> I'm thinking of making up my own exhaust
> system (dual
> pipes from manifold to tailpipe)

You didn't mention which car, but you might want to check how you are going
to route the two pipes.  On the TR3/4 there really isn't room unless you
either cut more holes in the frame or route around/under the frame.

-- Randall 


From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Apr  5 21:14:39 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 21:14:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] exhaust resinator
In-Reply-To: <153499.51738.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <153499.51738.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1F244A66DBB34FA09121833B8D763E11@bboffice>

Basically it is just another muffler, usually not quite as heavy.  TR2s used
the muffler only and a straight pipe where the resonator is.  I put my TR3
system together this way, sounds great!  

Sorry, I don't have any input on dual exhaust systems, but it sounds as if
your are going dual pipes and dual mufflers so you shouldn't have any
problems with it being too loud until you really get on the gas.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2011 8:10 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] exhaust resinator

Another question on exhaust.  Whats the purpose of a resinator and how is it
different from a muffler?  I'm thinking of making up my own exhaust system
(dual pipes from manifold to tailpipe) and thinking of eliminating the
resonators.........going with glass packs. 

just curious

thanks

gary n.
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From mlang99 at comcast.net  Tue Apr  5 21:19:09 2011
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2011 20:19:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Grant ring set question
In-Reply-To: <004101cbf32e$e62a2d00$b27e8700$@rr.com>
References: <387615361.593590.1301963325647.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<004101cbf32e$e62a2d00$b27e8700$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4D9BDBAD.7010007@comcast.net>

>From experience, I agree with Randall.

I installed a set of NOS "antique" 4 ring AE pistons a couple of years
ago in freshly bored sleeves. I was on a budget and couldn't pass up the
cheap pistons. I installed the one piece cast oil rings that came with
the pistons. It ran fine but I was never happy with oil consumption of
<700 miles per quart even after about 8K miles.

Reading on the web, some people say that the four ring pistons were for
low performance non-automotive applications. Others say that the fourth
ring was added as an unsuccessful attempt at improving poor oil
consumption, and that some cars came from the factory this way. I am not
quite sure which story to believe.

As an experiment, I pulled the pistons this winter, honed the cylinders
and installed a new set of Hastings rings. The set of Hastings rings
came with two oil rings per cylinder, but the top ring is a modern three
piece ring while the bottom one is of the original cast style. I debated
about leaving the bottom one empty as Randall suggests, but went ahead
and installed it anyway.

It will be interesting to see what happens to the oil consumption this
summer.

What else can I say other than it gives me a hobby to work on during the
winter and a fun commuter car during the summer :-)

Mike
TS11544L


Randall wrote:
> Ed,
>
> If you must use those antique pistons, I would suggest contacting Grant to
> see if they can make an oil control ring that will fit properly in the third
> groove (and leave the 4th empty).
>
> -- Randall 
>
>   


From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Apr  6 07:30:46 2011
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2011 06:30:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] exhaust resinator
In-Reply-To: <1F244A66DBB34FA09121833B8D763E11@bboffice>
References: <153499.51738.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<1F244A66DBB34FA09121833B8D763E11@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4D9C6B06.3090306@gmail.com>

On 4/5/11 8:14 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Basically it is just another muffler, usually not quite as heavy.  TR2s used
> the muffler only and a straight pipe where the resonator is.  I put my TR3
> system together this way, sounds great!
>    
I used the TR2 exhaust system on my 3A and love the tone.  But beware it 
is a fifties sports car roar that is quite loud by today's standards.

Teriann

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  6 11:22:31 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 10:22:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] resonator exhaust dual pipes
Message-ID: <532802.86108.qm@web65307.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Randall mentioned the concern of taking two pipes all the way back which was my 
concern too, (tr-3)  going through the central frame box section.  Upon closer 
inspection I see that I have a 4" by 2 1/4" hole through the central box section 
but it looks like it was cut larger by a prior owner.  (Probably not the best 
thing for strength).  Soooo maybe two 1 1/2 inch pipes would go through side by 
side.  However solving the frame rattle would be more of a battle.  

It also appears there's a smaller hole beside the large one at least on the back 
section of the "box".  I'm forgetting what might run through that section.
Anyway.................i'm guessing that my box section is no longer stock 
considering it looks cut up.
I think i'll go with one muffler for each pipe and then can add later if its too 
noisy.

thanks again to the list

gary n.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Apr  6 11:31:05 2011
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2011 10:31:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] exhaust resinator
In-Reply-To: <715871.82425.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <153499.51738.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<1F244A66DBB34FA09121833B8D763E11@bboffice>
	<4D9C6B06.3090306@gmail.com>
	<715871.82425.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4D9CA359.1080709@gmail.com>

On 4/6/11 10:25 AM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> TeriAnn,
> I want more sound than stock for sure so your system sounds great.  
> What I'm more concerned about is highway speed "drone" that can get 
> very annoying.  Do you have that issue at speed?
> thanks!
Only with the wind drying out my gums from the big grin as I drive.

From triumphsearch at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  6 19:13:22 2011
From: triumphsearch at yahoo.com (Jeremy Kinney)
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 18:13:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A Dual Exhaust Question
Message-ID: <408205.5027.qm@web113903.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Thanks to Jerry, John, George, and Randall for your responses.? I learned something this week.? I will tweak the angle of the pipes for peace of mind since the DPO's cockeyed mounting scheme makes them even closer to the rear bumper bar, but it neat to know that there is a historical precedent and how my fellow 4A drivers are dealing with this, how should I say it, eccentricity.? 

I'll look into EGT, but I think this is exhaust staining for lack of a better phrase more than anything.

Best,
Jeremy



      

From markvaden at gmail.com  Thu Apr  7 15:14:38 2011
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 14:14:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr6 gearbox adapter bracket
Message-ID: <BANLkTimpo4v4k7L9zF=+Y2dzifynVtUJvw@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have a TR6 gearbox mounting crossmember, adaptor, and bracket
they would be willing to part with? Items 100-102 in the diagram from the
following moss link:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32713&SortOrder=109

<http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32713&SortOrder=109>
Thanks,
Mark

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  7 17:25:26 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 16:25:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] master cylinder rebuild
Message-ID: <628563.80891.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I've installed new rebuild kits in my 1960 tr-3 master cylinder's  (clutch and 
brake) and find when i push in the plungers they won't spring 
back..............just stick.  One is worse than the other but neither seems 
serviceable.  I've honed both cylinders and due to the age i'd imagine they've 
been honed before over the years so  I'd assume if any problem existed that 
they'd be too loose if anything.  I've measured the inside dimensions and the 
cylinders are 75's so I am pretty sure I have the correct kit.
My question is whether others on the list have had the same problem.  I'm 
thinking the old springs inside might be weak and new springs might correct the 
problem?
thanks

gary n.

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  7 17:26:02 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 16:26:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 122
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1302199203.24895.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1302199203.24895.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <617688.46648.qm@web39421.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Jeremy Kinney

Please define: EGT, TIA.
?-Cosmo Kramer 



Message: 1
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 18:13:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremy Kinney <triumphsearch at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Dual Exhaust Question

Thanks to Jerry,...

I'll look into EGT, but I think this is exhaust staining for lack of a better 
phrase more than anything.

Best,
Jeremy

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Thu Apr  7 19:28:02 2011
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 19:28:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] master cylinder rebuild
In-Reply-To: <628563.80891.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <628563.80891.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1D6D349859D643A6AB3C49EABA90306A@littleone>

Just replaced the seals on my 57 and didn't have the problem and I didn't
hone them.

My only problem is getting the pipes to stop leaking where they enter the
master cylinders.

Jeremiah

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2011 5:25 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] master cylinder rebuild

I've installed new rebuild kits in my 1960 tr-3 master cylinder's  (clutch
and 
brake) and find when i push in the plungers they won't spring 
back..............just stick.  One is worse than the other but neither seems

serviceable.  I've honed both cylinders and due to the age i'd imagine
they've 
been honed before over the years so  I'd assume if any problem existed that 
they'd be too loose if anything.  I've measured the inside dimensions and
the 
cylinders are 75's so I am pretty sure I have the correct kit.
My question is whether others on the list have had the same problem.  I'm 
thinking the old springs inside might be weak and new springs might correct
the 
problem?
thanks

gary n.
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net




From Footfrek at aol.com  Fri Apr  8 03:17:18 2011
From: Footfrek at aol.com (Footfrek at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 05:17:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] GM or Pennzoil synchromesh (Gear Oil)
Message-ID: <50a5.6136160a.3ad02c9e@aol.com>

I was in the  auto parts  store and saw bottle of Pennzoil for  synchromesh 
GM manual transmissions. I read that  it  was  safe  for  yellow metals. I 
was  wondering if anyone  was  using  this? It seems to be readily  
available at least. Apparently I solves   some  shifting  problems honda owners  
seem to  have.  Although that  may  only  be  the  friction   modified version.
 
Jason M. Owen
70 tr6

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri Apr  8 06:39:29 2011
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2011 08:39:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Redline tire recommendations TR6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1302199203.24895.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1302199203.24895.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAKp+cGxB9JtLixToTOnrISsBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

Hello list,
I am looking for opinions on redline tires for TR6.
Coker has 185R15 rated 400-B-B with a 3/8" redline, my (very) old Michelins
redline is 1/2",
Diamondback has the size also but I don't have specs yet. Are there any
other makes out there?
Any stories/opinions please.
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob


From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  8 07:01:14 2011
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 06:01:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr6 gearbox adapter bracket
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimpo4v4k7L9zF=+Y2dzifynVtUJvw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTimpo4v4k7L9zF=+Y2dzifynVtUJvw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <636186.43329.qm@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I also am looking for the same items

Raymond L. Hatfield



----- Original Message ----
From: Mark Vaden <markvaden at gmail.com>
To: TR List <Triumphs at autox.team.net>; FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, April 7, 2011 4:14:38 PM
Subject: [TR] tr6 gearbox adapter bracket

Does anyone have a TR6 gearbox mounting crossmember, adaptor, and bracket
they would be willing to part with? Items 100-102 in the diagram from the
following moss link:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32713&SortOrder=109


<http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32713&SortOrder=109>

Thanks,
Mark
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/iron_horse819 at yahoo.com

From Harrymague at aol.com  Fri Apr  8 10:20:10 2011
From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 12:20:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Redline tire recommendations TR6
Message-ID: <4d88d.4abc1d3b.3ad08fba@aol.com>

Last summer, I bought 4 Coker redline copies.  I tried to  have them 
balanced.  They couldn't.  Sent them back which they were  more then helpful.  
Tires were made in Mexico.  My Two Cents.   Harry
 
 
In a message dated 4/8/2011 8:59:34 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rpeglow at optonline.net writes:

Hello  list,
I am looking for opinions on redline tires for TR6.
Coker has  185R15 rated 400-B-B with a 3/8" redline, my (very) old Michelins
redline  is 1/2",
Diamondback has the size also but I don't have specs yet. Are  there any
other makes out there?
Any stories/opinions please.
Thank  you.
Regards,
Bob

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/harrymague at aol.com



From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Apr  8 11:23:52 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 13:23:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire crank length
Message-ID: <BLU160-w25BFFEE4CF5751E05CDEEBBAA70@phx.gbl>


Anybody have a spitfire crank handy you could measure the length on for me? I guess the block measurement would work also. Nothing precise, a tape measure would work.  I'm not at home or I would measure mine.
 
Thanks,
Marty 		 	   		  

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Apr  8 11:27:09 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 11:27:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] Thinking of coming to VTR2011?
Message-ID: <CCB6FE82-3BD4-4C31-9262-927DACE6B471@comcast.net>

The Long Island Triumph Association is doing some planning for coming  
to VTR2011 in Breckenridge, Colorado so I thought I'd share this in  
case you might want to join up with them.  Sounds like a good way to  
get here from the east coast or points in between if you don't feel  
like driving the whole way.

http://www.longislandtriumph.org/vtr-colorado

To Register see:

http://vtr2011.com/

The registration works...I used it.  You definitely want to get into  
the Beaver Run host hotel as it will be the hub of activity.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net





From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Apr  8 11:35:33 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 11:35:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] Thinking of coming to VTR2011?
References: <CCB6FE82-3BD4-4C31-9262-927DACE6B471@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A21DCA6D-3048-4B41-B635-3CCDAA0AEA83@comcast.net>

> The Long Island Triumph Association is doing some planning for  
> coming to VTR2011 in Breckenridge, Colorado so I thought I'd share  
> this in case you might want to join up with them.  Sounds like a  
> good way to get here from the east coast or points in between if you  
> don't feel like driving the whole way.
>
> http://www.longislandtriumph.org/vtr-colorado
>
> To Register see:
>
> http://vtr2011.com/
>
> The registration works...I used it.  You definitely want to get into  
> the Beaver Run host hotel as it will be the hub of activity.
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
>
>


From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Apr  8 12:40:03 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 14:40:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr6 gearbox adapter bracket
In-Reply-To: <636186.43329.qm@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <BANLkTimpo4v4k7L9zF=+Y2dzifynVtUJvw@mail.gmail.com>
	<636186.43329.qm@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0CCACE5EF8424BA1A04154D120745B48@DCH6RFC1>

I may be able to get my hands on some.  Can the two of you contact me
directly?

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Raymond Hatfield
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2011 9:01 AM
To: TR List; FOT
Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 gearbox adapter bracket

I also am looking for the same items

Raymond L. Hatfield



----- Original Message ----
From: Mark Vaden <markvaden at gmail.com>
To: TR List <Triumphs at autox.team.net>; FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, April 7, 2011 4:14:38 PM
Subject: [TR] tr6 gearbox adapter bracket

Does anyone have a TR6 gearbox mounting crossmember, adaptor, and bracket
they would be willing to part with? Items 100-102 in the diagram from the
following moss link:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32713&SortOrde
r=109


<http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32713&SortOrd
er=109>

Thanks,
Mark
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/iron_horse819 at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net



From brianharlan at scrtc.com  Fri Apr  8 17:20:28 2011
From: brianharlan at scrtc.com (Brian Harlan)
Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2011 18:20:28 -0500
Subject: [TR]  master cylinder rebuild
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1302285602.31166.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1302285602.31166.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4D9F983C.70704@scrtc.com>

I rebuilt the brake master cylinder in my 68 Spitfire last Sunday 
(without honing it) and had the same problem. Thought maybe I had done 
something wrong in the process, so Tuesday I disassembled it and 
re-assembled it, after bleeding the system (again) I had the same 
problem. I had the same thoughts as you - needed honing, weak springs, 
etc. The master cylinder on my car was an aftermarket replacement when I 
bought it. I'm thinking that the kit I ordered from VB is for the OEM 
cylinder, which may be somewhat different, so, rather than continue 
fight with it and stress over it, I have ordered a whole new master 
cylinder. I'm sticking with another aftermarket for now that I found at 
British Spares through ebay. I won it at $87.55 plus S&H. "I know, I 
know. It's not original." But compared to VB's $220.00, it will do for now.

Gary, please post your final resolution so we can all learn from this.

brian

On 4/8/2011 1:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 16:25:26 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Gary Nafziger<nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [TR] master cylinder rebuild
> To:triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID:<628563.80891.qm at web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> I've installed new rebuild kits in my 1960 tr-3 master cylinder's  (clutch and
> brake) and find when i push in the plungers they won't spring
> back..............just stick.  One is worse than the other but neither seems
> serviceable.  I've honed both cylinders and due to the age i'd imagine they've
> been honed before over the years so  I'd assume if any problem existed that
> they'd be too loose if anything.  I've measured the inside dimensions and the
> cylinders are 75's so I am pretty sure I have the correct kit.
> My question is whether others on the list have had the same problem.  I'm
> thinking the old springs inside might be weak and new springs might correct the
> problem?
> thanks
>
> gary n.


From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  8 17:55:34 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 16:55:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr6 gearbox adapter bracket
Message-ID: <328946.54255.qm@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

From: Mark Vaden <markvaden at gmail.com>
Subject: [TR] tr6 gearbox adapter bracket

Does anyone have a TR6 gearbox mounting crossmember, adaptor, and bracket
they would be willing to part with? Items 100-102 in the diagram from the
following moss link:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32713&SortOrder=109


<http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32713&SortOrder=109>

Thanks,
Mark
----------------------------------------------
Hi Mark, Ray, & list!
?
I don't have one, but I was talking to a FOT back in 10-2008 @ Watkins Glen 
about some of the 'different ways' (creative ways), some people have come up 
with 'quick fixes' on broken Tranny mountings.? It was mentioned that the use of 
a 2" X 4" board cut to length was used. Now if you elaberated on this thought, 
you just might have a fix on this problem. 

?
Now, how long this 'fix' would work will depend on how extream you when into 
creativity in the making of this part. If nothing else, You would have a 'rough' 
templet to show a machinest or fabacator to make something more perment.

?-Cosmo Kramer 

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Thu Apr  7 19:36:58 2011
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC)
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 20:36:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 122
In-Reply-To: <617688.46648.qm@web39421.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.5.1302199203.24895.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<617688.46648.qm@web39421.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DB52ECC5-6FE7-4C4C-9494-B01F11A90CB1@consolidated.net>

Exhaust Gas Temperature. Useful in tuning. 

Kg
On the road :-)

On Apr 7, 2011, at 6:26 PM, Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi Jeremy Kinney
> 
> Please define: EGT, TIA.
>  -Cosmo Kramer 
> 
> 
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2011 18:13:22 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Jeremy Kinney <triumphsearch at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Dual Exhaust Question
> 
> Thanks to Jerry,...
> 
> I'll look into EGT, but I think this is exhaust staining for lack of a better 
> phrase more than anything.
> 
> Best,
> Jeremy
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net
> 

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Fri Apr  8 21:22:37 2011
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 23:22:37 EDT
Subject: [TR] Ignition question; not really TR, but could be!
Message-ID: <36223.127f07a8.3ad12afd@aol.com>

Hi everyone;
 
My son has a 1982 Volvo 242 that has covered about 50,000 miles/80,000kms  
from new. We've decided to change to electronic ignition and obtained a  
Pertronix kit that simply replaces the points. The instructions say to make 
sure  the coil has at least 3 ohms of resistance. We've tested the coil on the 
car and  it reads 1.5 ohms. The coil on the 244 parts car reads 2.2 ohms. I 
have a stash  of old TR coils; we've only tested one and it reads 3.8 ohms.
 
Is the coil on the 242 faulty? Is it just that the kit is not compatible  
with that coil? Should I just fit the kit anyway?
 
Tim  Dyer
TR3A TS22030LO
Volvo PV544 Sport, 1965
'51 Chev 3-ton
'91 Mustang convertible (sorry about that...)

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr  9 01:42:49 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 00:42:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition question; not really TR, but could be!
In-Reply-To: <36223.127f07a8.3ad12afd@aol.com>
References: <36223.127f07a8.3ad12afd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <011301cbf689$ba09ada0$0301a8c0@randall>

> We've 
> tested the coil on the 
> car and  it reads 1.5 ohms.

That would be a very typical value for an "external ballast required" coil,
which is what most cars after 1970 or so used (until the advent of HEI,
etc).  The car will have some sort of resistance (likely resistor wire in
the harness, but some use a discrete resistor mounted somewhere) that limits
current through the coil.  The advantage of doing it that way is that the
starter circuit can short out the resistor, giving a hotter spark when the
battery voltage is being sapped by starting the car, and making it easier to
start with the various smog equipment.

To use the original coil, you need to keep that resistance in series with
the coil, while finding a full 12v to supply to the Pertronix.  The
information on how to wire with a ballast resistor used to be in the
Pertronix instructions.  If not, let me know and I'll send you a PDF.

-- Randall  


From spamiam at comcast.net  Sat Apr  9 06:44:08 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 08:44:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Headlights/driving lights/relays/fuses/connectors
In-Reply-To: <01d001cbf3d8$14305b30$3c911190$@rr.com>
References: <03d301cbf3a2$324fc050$0301a8c0@randall>
	<1005208835.585081.1302025311427.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<01d001cbf3d8$14305b30$3c911190$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <39279E07C5464D37B28DC1C307668D16@I7Quad>

All,

A couple of ideas/questions:


1)  I did some more thinking about the conundrum of my old original 
headlights being "inadequate", and the fact that I have a couple pairs of 
driving lights on a shelf, and the fact that my generator for my TR4A is 
only good for 22 amps.  I don't have enough generator capacity to keep up 
with two 55W headlights, and two 55W driving lights, as well as running 
lights, ignition, and occasionally a heater fan.  55 Watts = 4.6 Amps  Four 
bulbs simultaneously = 18.3A with 3.7 amps left over

Sensible people here on the forum suggested that I get some good modern H4 
headlights.  I got some from BUSDEPOT.COM.  They have arrived.  They are 
labeled "motorcycle" on the glass, but I presume they will be fine for 
automobile use as well.  I got the 60/55 bulbs to go with them.  I have some 
new 100/55 bulbs intended for a long gone car, but never used.  I was 
thinking that I could use a 100/55 bulb in ONE of the lights, almost like 
what they did on the old days with having ONE driving light (and one fog 
light) (I never understood why they used ONE until I thought of the power 
limitations, a 22A generator can only power one extra 55W bulb without 
brown-out).

What do you think about  using one 100W high beam and one 60W high beam 
bulb?  I doubt I will actually do it, and it is a pain in the neck to pull 
the leadlight out of the bucket to change the bulb just to test 100W on one 
side....


2)  I will upgrade the wiring to properly supply the new lights.  I want to 
have the upgrade as invisible as possible for concours shows, but I want the 
relays (and fuses?) to be reasonably easily accessible.  I think it makes 
good sense to have the relays near the headlights, rather than under the 
dash so that there are short runs from the relays to the bulbs.  So... 
where should I put them?  Randall put them under on the bottom of a 
headlight bucket, and that is well hidden, but not too accessible. 
Suggestions?


3) To fuse or not to fuse.  Right now I am thinking that I will put type I 
auto-resetting circuit breakers piggybacked to the relays.  One breaker for 
both high beams, and a separate one for both low beams.  This protects only 
the relatively short runs from the relays to the bulbs.  The big hot wire 
coming from the voltage regulator A1 terminal won't be fused.  Due to its 
length and location, I'd guess that one is at more risk of shorting.  But I 
REALLY REALLY don't want to put any sort of fuse on the single main power 
supply to all the forward facing lights!  Maybe a BIG fusible link. 
Something like 50A.  If I were to draw 50A long enough to blow the fusible 
link, then I had a serious problem, and I was going to lose the lights 
anyway.  Suggestions?


4)  What connectors should I use when I need to branch a single wire to two 
wires.  The original harness uses bullet terminals and 4-way connectors to 
go to the high and low filaments.  These have always seemed to me to be 
prone to corrosion and bad connections.  But the new connectors from British 
Wiring are stainless steel, so I suppose they are less prone to corrosion. 
Should I pack them with dielectric grease to seal them from the elements? 
If I use bullet terminals, should I solder or crimp, or both?  It would be a 
bit of a waste of money to buy a $50+ crimper if I am going to solder 
anyway, but I like a GOOD crimped connection.


5)  How is the ground connected for the headlights on the 4A?  I haven't 
looked hard at the stock wiring to see how the ground is handled.  Do the 
two grounds from the bulbs meet at a bullet connector,and then where does it 
go after that to get to a good ground?

-Tony 


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Apr  9 10:01:28 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 09:01:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlights/driving lights/relays/fuses/connectors
In-Reply-To: <39279E07C5464D37B28DC1C307668D16@I7Quad>
References: <03d301cbf3a2$324fc050$0301a8c0@randall>
	<1005208835.585081.1302025311427.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<01d001cbf3d8$14305b30$3c911190$@rr.com>
	<39279E07C5464D37B28DC1C307668D16@I7Quad>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinnsSwugbPoLr3xfR_CBcNj3LhDKA@mail.gmail.com>

I put the relays front & center... but that will be too obvious for your
stealth installation.  I did use the 4-hole bullet connectors which seem
fine but I keep them clean, dry & greased dielectric.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/HeadlampRelays.JPG

A 50 amp fusible link will be well-protected -- your wiring harness should
melt long before the link has a chance to blow.  i.e. I think a fusible link
needs to be rated to the lowest circuit it protects, not the highest.

Geo

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Sat Apr  9 10:12:50 2011
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 16:12:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Green Motor Oil
Message-ID: <86810807.830282.1302365570865.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I put the '70 TR6 up on jacks to replace the rubber secuions of the fuel lines with ethenol resistant rubber hoses (it has been 13 years since I replaced them anyway). As I was going over the udnerside of the 6, I noticed that there was some oil seeping from the spin on filter, and it was green tinted.  Any idea what could be causing this?

Scott Suhring
'70 TR6
'59 TR3A

From spamiam at comcast.net  Sat Apr  9 12:04:44 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 14:04:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Headlights/driving lights/relays/fuses/connectors
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinnsSwugbPoLr3xfR_CBcNj3LhDKA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <03d301cbf3a2$324fc050$0301a8c0@randall><1005208835.585081.1302025311427.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><01d001cbf3d8$14305b30$3c911190$@rr.com><39279E07C5464D37B28DC1C307668D16@I7Quad>
	<BANLkTinnsSwugbPoLr3xfR_CBcNj3LhDKA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9A73A4E3561E4A8F8ACA21A51A9E6DD0@I7Quad>

Geo,

Good suggestion.  You may be right.  Let me explain my thinking.  I don't 
think that the 44 strand wire would melt before the 50A fusible link. 
Certainly, the 50A is greater than the 44 strand is rated for.  44 strand 
wire is rated for 25 to 33 amps CONTINUOUS.  So, 50A is no more than double 
the continuous rating.  I think the fusible link would let go before the 
wire melts.  I suppose that a 35A to 40A fusible link would work better, but 
remember, the fusible link is to be used instead of NO FUSE AT ALL.  The 
intent of the link is to allow some serious problems to occur, but to 
prevent meltdown.  I don't want a "normal" fuse to blow when the problem was 
an intermittent short, not for mission critical stuff like headlights.  For 
this purpose, I think the fusible link needs to be rated above the maximum 
continuous capacity of the wire.  Maybe not twice the capacity.  Maybe just 
1.2x or 1.5x.

-Tony

>Original Message
>From: Geo Hahn
>Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2011 12:01 PM
>To: spamiam at comcast.net
>Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [TR] Headlights/driving lights/relays/fuses/connectors
>
>I put the relays front & center... but that will be too obvious for your 
>stealth installation.  I did use the 4-hole bullet connectors which seem 
>fine but I keep them clean, dry & greased dielectric.
>
>http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/HeadlampRelays.JPG
>
>A 50 amp fusible link will be well-protected -- your wiring harness should 
>melt long before the link has a chance to blow.  i.e. I think a fusible 
>link needs to be rated to the lowest circuit it >protects, not the highest.
>
>
>Geo


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Apr  9 13:37:56 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 15:37:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Green Motor Oil
In-Reply-To: <86810807.830282.1302365570865.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <86810807.830282.1302365570865.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <201104091537.57898.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, April 09, 2011 12:12:50 pm suhringtr36 at comcast.net wrote:
> I put the '70 TR6 up on jacks to replace the rubber secuions of the fuel
> lines with ethenol resistant rubber hoses (it has been 13 years since I
> replaced them anyway). As I was going over the udnerside of the 6, I
> noticed that there was some oil seeping from the spin on filter, and it
> was green tinted.  Any idea what could be causing this?
> 
> Scott Suhring
> '70 TR6
> '59 TR3A
Scott,

I don't know about the leak. I have heard it mentioned on the 6-pack forum 
from time to time. Most of the problems are with the o-ring or something.

The oil I use is Brad Penn Green oil and it is indeed green! Most oils when 
they are new are yellow to green in color.

I would do a search on the forum for problems and fixes. Many members use the 
spin on oil filter modification.

I am still an old school and have the original oil filter systems on my 3, 4 
and 6.No leaks but lots of fun changing the filter!

Bob

From tr6.guy at verizon.net  Sat Apr  9 13:47:23 2011
From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein)
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2011 15:47:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Green Motor Oil
Message-ID: <6A407548AC054F8CA2C21284D440D43C@mommystoyii>

Scott,
 
Do you use Brad Penn?  It's tinted dark green.
 
Gary
'80 TR8 w/ A/C
'75 TR6
Severn, MD
Digest
 
 
 
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 16:12:50 +0000 (UTC)
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net
Subject: [TR] Green Motor Oil
To: Triumph Mail List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
 
<86810807.830282.1302365570865.JavaMail.root at sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.com
cast.net>
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
I put the '70 TR6 up on jacks to replace the rubber secuions of the fuel
lines with ethenol resistant rubber hoses (it has been 13 years since I
replaced them anyway). As I was going over the udnerside of the 6, I noticed
that there was some oil seeping from the spin on filter, and it was green
tinted.  Any idea what could be causing this?
 
Scott Suhring
'70 TR6
'59 TR3A


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr  9 14:35:01 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 13:35:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Headlights/driving lights/relays/fuses/connectors
In-Reply-To: <9A73A4E3561E4A8F8ACA21A51A9E6DD0@I7Quad>
References: <03d301cbf3a2$324fc050$0301a8c0@randall><1005208835.585081.1302025311427.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><01d001cbf3d8$14305b30$3c911190$@rr.com><39279E07C5464D37B28DC1C307668D16@I7Quad><BANLkTinnsSwugbPoLr3xfR_CBcNj3LhDKA@mail.gmail.com>
	<9A73A4E3561E4A8F8ACA21A51A9E6DD0@I7Quad>
Message-ID: <008501cbf6f5$9a445120$0301a8c0@randall>

>  I don't 
> think that the 44 strand wire would melt before the 50A fusible link. 

The real problem is that fusible links are not rated in amps.  Instead they
are rated by wire gauge, and should be one size smaller than the circuit
they protect.

Just in case I wasn't clear before, Tony, what I did was to use a separate
fuse for each side, so that the runs from the control box to the headlight
area would be protected, but a single fuse blowing would always leave one
side lit.

On the back of the headlight bucket is more accessible than you might think;
to access them I only have to pop off the trim ring and remove 3 screws.
The bucket comes out with the bulb still clamped into the bucket.  And since
I don't expect to have to access them very often, having to remove three
screws to do so doesn't bother me at all.

-- Randall  


From trglory at verizon.net  Sat Apr  9 20:00:19 2011
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2011 22:00:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Green Motor Oil
In-Reply-To: <694426544.833822.1302373233380.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <00ee01cbf6d5$4dc45310$e94cf930$@net>
	<694426544.833822.1302373233380.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00fe01cbf723$0b8b36a0$22a1a3e0$@net>

Scott;

I doubt that it is in your oil. A hose leak is a pretty good possibility.
Shine a light around the back of your engine above the bell housing and see
if you notice any green discoloring.

Joe Laurito


-----Original Message-----
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net [mailto:suhringtr36 at comcast.net] 
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2011 2:21 PM
To: Joe Laurito
Subject: Re: [TR] Green Motor Oil

Do you think it is mixing in with the oil or do you mean it is leaking out
of the hoses somewhere and dripping down? I changed out the hoses last fall
and I gues it could have been left over from some dripping then.  None of my
other oil drips show any of this green tint and I plan on changing the oil,
so I'll give it a look. Odd though.

Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Laurito" <trglory at verizon.net>
To: suhringtr36 at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, April 9, 2011 12:43:49 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Green Motor Oil

Scott;

My guess would be that it's antifreeze coming from somewhere else up higher,
but showing up there 'cause it's a good low spot for drips. You might want
to look around some more.

Joe Laurito


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
suhringtr36 at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2011 12:13 PM
To: Triumph Mail List
Subject: [TR] Green Motor Oil

I put the '70 TR6 up on jacks to replace the rubber secuions of the fuel
lines with ethenol resistant rubber hoses (it has been 13 years since I
replaced them anyway). As I was going over the udnerside of the 6, I noticed
that there was some oil seeping from the spin on filter, and it was green
tinted.  Any idea what could be causing this?

Scott Suhring
'70 TR6
'59 TR3A
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net


From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 10 07:45:03 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 06:45:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] What's with the "?" mark ?
Message-ID: <144128.14763.qm@web39409.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!

In the past couple?E-mails that I have sent to this list, I noticed that I'm 
having "?" marks in the thread, that I didn't place. 


So my question is:
How does that happen?

Is it because of my computor sending to the list in one format (I think that's 
what it's called), & the list is interpreting a 'space bar' as a question mark, 
or is it something else? 


Yes, I've used a question marks several times in this E-mail, but?only at the 
end of the question that I'm asking. 


Could it because I'm switching font size?
?
Or brcause I'm changing font style?
?
I know this is NOT actual car related questions & answers, but it does relate to 
the TRIUMPH List.?? PLUS, it gives me a chance to check out different styles 
(that's being sent to the list), so that I can compare my original E-mail to 
that of what the list shows for viewing.
TIA,?-Cosmo Kramer 

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sun Apr 10 17:41:28 2011
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 19:41:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Green Oil
Message-ID: <1a972.232eafb5.3ad39a28@aol.com>

A few friends have had the misfortune of having oil leaks associated with 
the (green) Brad Penn partial synthetic oil.   The trend toward that oil is 
it's use of ZDDP, and others have had better luck - leak-wise - using 
Collector's Choice, also with ZDDP.
George

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sun Apr 10 18:44:50 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 20:44:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] PDWA valve
Message-ID: <EF73B9A6EF0E4BEBBAA3708B49157BCC@userb38463fba5>

List,

Does the switch on the top of the PDWA valve (TR6 and 250 and others I guess) have any type of seal between it (the plastic switch) and the brass PDWA housing? No apparent seal from what I see in the TRF TR6 Parts Manual, although the drawing of the switch would seem to show a seal of some type. No separate listing for a seal is shown.

Thanks,
JVV

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Apr 10 19:53:32 2011
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 21:53:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] PDWA valve
In-Reply-To: <EF73B9A6EF0E4BEBBAA3708B49157BCC@userb38463fba5>
References: <EF73B9A6EF0E4BEBBAA3708B49157BCC@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <8CDC6026544F28A-AD0-2FAAB@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>


 

No.   The shuttle itself has a seal at each end where it enters the pressure chamber on either side.  In between it is open to atmosphere.  If you get fluid leaking from the switch the PDWA needs new seals.

Dave


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>

List,


Does the switch on the top of the PDWA valve (TR6 and 250 and others I guess) 
have any type of seal between it (the plastic switch) and the brass PDWA 
housing? No apparent seal from what I see in the TRF TR6 Parts Manual, although 
the drawing of the switch would seem to show a seal of some type. No separate 
listing for a seal is shown.

Thanks,
JVV


 

From wquincy at cox.net  Mon Apr 11 00:30:46 2011
From: wquincy at cox.net (William Quincy)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 01:30:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Seat Belt Hole Location Question
Message-ID: <569E5DF3-2760-4956-9369-FF3C5402B2EC@cox.net>

Greetings Listers,

Before I drill holes in the( heal board) for seat belts in my 60,000 S/ 
N car, I wonder if anyone can offer an explanation why the inboard and  
the outboard holes should be at different heights from the floor. The  
Standard-Triumph Motor Company, Inc. Northeastern zone Service  
Memorandum #2-62, January 9, 1962. shows out board holes 2 5/16" from  
the floor and the inboard holes 1 7/16" from the floor. Also the memo  
shows the holes should be 2 1/8" from the driveshaft tunnel and 1 1/2  
" from the wheel arch side.
Why not holes on the same plane and evenly spaced from both sides.  
I've studied this memo and feel fairly confident I'm reading it  
correctly but I don't get the logic here.

Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L






From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Mon Apr 11 04:12:27 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 06:12:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Green Motor Oil
In-Reply-To: <00fe01cbf723$0b8b36a0$22a1a3e0$@net>
References: <00ee01cbf6d5$4dc45310$e94cf930$@net>
	<694426544.833822.1302373233380.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<00fe01cbf723$0b8b36a0$22a1a3e0$@net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTin5A=5-sj=7PtU2HMBsBaJ9apeQgQ@mail.gmail.com>

What did it taste like?

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Apr 11 08:52:30 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 14:52:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] What's with the "?" mark ?
In-Reply-To: <144128.14763.qm@web39409.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1155737894.3942189.1302533550260.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Set your mailer to sent only plain text.  Do not attempt to control the font.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Apr 11 10:40:25 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 10:40:25 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] Anniversary
Message-ID: <20110411164025.0F81E2E085@bradakis.com>


I imagine there are folks on the list who grew up listening to
The Beatles, and remember the Sgt. Pepper song which starts:

It was 20 years ago today
Sargent Pepper taught the band to play


Well, 20 years ago today the domain Team.Net was registered.
The autocross and british car lists were already up and running
for a while on my computer at the U of U, but getting our own
domain was a big step in a new direction.  Hard to beleive I've
been doing this for so many years.

Happy anniversary, folks!

mjb.


From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Apr 11 10:41:54 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 10:41:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] Anniversary
In-Reply-To: <20110411164025.0F81E2E085@bradakis.com>
References: <20110411164025.0F81E2E085@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <EEC34F1D901F4700A7E584066B4154EC@bboffice>

Happy anniversary Mark, and thanks for all the selfless work you have put
into this service.

Which reminds me, it's about time to send in another donation!! Is the
recommendation still $.01 per cc?

All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 10:40 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Anniversary


I imagine there are folks on the list who grew up listening to The Beatles,
and remember the Sgt. Pepper song which starts:

It was 20 years ago today
Sargent Pepper taught the band to play


Well, 20 years ago today the domain Team.Net was registered.
The autocross and british car lists were already up and running for a while
on my computer at the U of U, but getting our own domain was a big step in a
new direction.  Hard to beleive I've been doing this for so many years.

Happy anniversary, folks!

mjb.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Apr 11 11:57:00 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 13:57:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Anniversary
Message-ID: <85fd.55b0ccbf.3ad49aec@cs.com>

In a message dated 4/11/2011 11:31:20 AM Central Daylight Time, 
mark at bradakis.com writes: 
> Well, 20 years ago today the domain Team.Net was registered.
> The autocross and british car lists were already up and running
> for a while on my computer at the U of U, but getting our own
> domain was a big step in a new direction.  Hard to beleive I've
> been doing this for so many years.
> 


That Innertron thing is just a passing fad.  Never last.



Congratulations, Mark.  You made this work and you made it last this long.  
Thanks

Dave

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 11 13:48:20 2011
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 12:48:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Headlights/driving lights/relays/fuses/connectors
Message-ID: <55337.25750.qm@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>


Hi List!

?I just received the digest mode that has my e-mail in it & it DEFIANTLY is NOT 
what I had sent.Thanks to everyone who replied to my last E-mail about '?' marks 
showing up in space bar pressing. This time I'm sending it in 'plain text', as 
many of you had suggested.


Now to the thread of the above subject line:
I'm not good with Electrical problems, so I may be WAY OFF in my reply. Instead 
of using a 'regulator fuse' would a 'Slow-burn Fuse' be of any help?
?-Cosmo Kramer 

From trglory at verizon.net  Mon Apr 11 15:16:07 2011
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 17:16:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Seat Belt Hole Location Question
In-Reply-To: <569E5DF3-2760-4956-9369-FF3C5402B2EC@cox.net>
References: <569E5DF3-2760-4956-9369-FF3C5402B2EC@cox.net>
Message-ID: <003301cbf88d$acfc8aa0$06f59fe0$@net>

What a coincidence! The seat belts I ordered for my TR3a resto arrived
Friday eve. I looked around a bit and didn't really see a good place to
mount them. When I read your post today, I looked at the car and the
location you reference seems very logical. The only problem is that I don't
think the belts are long enough to surround my lard when attached there. I
did get the kind that attach via eye bolt which seems to be what was
preferred by the boy racers of the period. The belt on the clip side is 20"
and on the buckle side is 36" when fully extended.

Anyone use this location and know for sure what fits?

As to the offset, they may done this to reduce metal fatigue when the bolt
holes are under stress. Yeah, I know, that sounds like BS ... and it
probably is!

Joe Laurito

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Quincy
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 2:31 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A Seat Belt Hole Location Question

Greetings Listers,

Before I drill holes in the( heal board) for seat belts in my 60,000 S/ 
N car, I wonder if anyone can offer an explanation why the inboard and  
the outboard holes should be at different heights from the floor. The  
Standard-Triumph Motor Company, Inc. Northeastern zone Service  
Memorandum #2-62, January 9, 1962. shows out board holes 2 5/16" from  
the floor and the inboard holes 1 7/16" from the floor. Also the memo  
shows the holes should be 2 1/8" from the driveshaft tunnel and 1 1/2  
" from the wheel arch side.
Why not holes on the same plane and evenly spaced from both sides.  
I've studied this memo and feel fairly confident I'm reading it  
correctly but I don't get the logic here.

Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L



From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr 11 16:25:19 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 15:25:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Headlights/driving
	lights/relays/fuses/connectors
In-Reply-To: <55337.25750.qm@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <55337.25750.qm@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <098401cbf897$5819ff40$084dfdc0$@rr.com>

> Instead
> of using a 'regulator fuse' would a 'Slow-burn Fuse' be of any help?

Not really.  The issue remains that fuses sometimes fail for reasons other
than too much current through them.  In my case (when the headlights went
out while going down a mountain at night), the problem was eventually traced
to a poor connection between the fuse and it's clip.  Even through the clip
was tinned, and the assembly was inside a sealed metal can, it had
apparently picked up just enough corrosion over the years to get hot without
dimming the headlights enough to notice.  (My 100 watt H4 headlights
probably had something to do with that as well.)

Only took a few quick swipes with a Scotch-Brite pad to fix the problem,
once I found it.  But it was several months and 2 more fuses later before I
figured it out.

Not really a problem at the time, once I managed to find the dimmer switch
and hit the high beams.  (Fortunately there was no one else on the road, so
I didn't have to worry about blinding them.)  But it was an experience that
I would rather not repeat, hence the perhaps overkill design that I'm
implementing now.  Relays are cheap.

-- Randall 


From spamiam at comcast.net  Mon Apr 11 16:33:47 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 18:33:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] headlamp removal
Message-ID: <76167E44935248829BA2B57954C8D539@I7Quad>

I have a really stupid question.  I want to get my headlamp out (to install an H4 type) and I don?t have the special tool to pry under the chrome trim.  I gently inserted a screwdriver in accessible places, but I could just feel something like a clip bending, not releasing.  

So, what is the best way to get this darned chrome trim ring off without damaging anything?  Should I fabricate a ?special tool? to do the job?  If so, what are its dimensions?

-Tony

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr 11 17:26:00 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 16:26:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] headlamp removal
In-Reply-To: <76167E44935248829BA2B57954C8D539@I7Quad>
References: <76167E44935248829BA2B57954C8D539@I7Quad>
Message-ID: <09a001cbf89f$d21410d0$763c3270$@rr.com>

> So, what is the best way to get this darned chrome trim ring off
> without damaging anything?  Should I fabricate a special tool to do the
> job?  If so, what are its dimensions?

IMO, just do the tool.

Got an old PC lying around?  I hear that I/O slot covers make a usable tool.

Mine is made from an old hacksaw blade (so perhaps 1/2" wide).  I heated it with a propane torch to bend a right angle, then cut the end off about 1/4" away from the bend.  Ground the teeth off and wrapped some plastic (electrical) tape around it to protect the cars finish.  

-- Randall 


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Apr 11 17:29:00 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:29:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re:
	Headlights/drivinglights/relays/fuses/connectors
In-Reply-To: <098401cbf897$5819ff40$084dfdc0$@rr.com>
References: <55337.25750.qm@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<098401cbf897$5819ff40$084dfdc0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4C3AB508A0CE4D94B2E1FAF20565FB27@BobPC>

Hey Randall,

Your lights out mountain drive mush have inspired Dan Masters when he 
designed the AAW harness. He steadfastly refuses to use any fuses in the 
headlight circuit for his harnesses. In fact, he insists on a direct wire 
run from the relay to the headlights using a new socket that he provides. 
Not even a bullet connector is used. He feels the experience you had isn't 
worth it. Granted his harness is "over-designed", so a wire meltdown isn't 
likely. However, I see that his stand-alone Headlight Relay Kit that can be 
added to a stock harness does have 4 fuses similar to what you're suggesting 
so you would have to blow 4 fuses to be driving in the dark.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs



-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 6:25 PM
To: 'Cosmo Kramer' ; Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Subject: Re: 
Headlights/drivinglights/relays/fuses/connectors

> Instead
> of using a 'regulator fuse' would a 'Slow-burn Fuse' be of any help?

Not really.  The issue remains that fuses sometimes fail for reasons other
than too much current through them.  In my case (when the headlights went
out while going down a mountain at night), the problem was eventually traced
to a poor connection between the fuse and it's clip.  Even through the clip
was tinned, and the assembly was inside a sealed metal can, it had
apparently picked up just enough corrosion over the years to get hot without
dimming the headlights enough to notice.  (My 100 watt H4 headlights
probably had something to do with that as well.)

Only took a few quick swipes with a Scotch-Brite pad to fix the problem,
once I found it.  But it was several months and 2 more fuses later before I
figured it out.

Not really a problem at the time, once I managed to find the dimmer switch
and hit the high beams.  (Fortunately there was no one else on the road, so
I didn't have to worry about blinding them.)  But it was an experience that
I would rather not repeat, hence the perhaps overkill design that I'm
implementing now.  Relays are cheap.

-- Randall



From spamiam at comcast.net  Mon Apr 11 17:32:43 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:32:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] headlamp removal
In-Reply-To: <09a001cbf89f$d21410d0$763c3270$@rr.com>
References: <76167E44935248829BA2B57954C8D539@I7Quad>
	<09a001cbf89f$d21410d0$763c3270$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <2222413236A443379C19C2C74731535A@I7Quad>

Randall,

Thanks.  I fashioned a tool out of some steel I had lying around.  I bent it 
about 3/16" from the end at a right angle, then heat treated it with a MAPP 
torch, quenched it for "hardening" and then tried it.  I got the trim ring 
off reasonably easily with the tool.  The best place to pull appears to be 
right where this a little rivet on the ring.  That is where there is a 
locking tab.

I got the lamp replaced.

Interesting observations to follow in another post.

-Tony

-----Original Message----- 
>From: Randall
>Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 7:26 PM
>To: spamiam at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: [TR] headlamp removal
>
>> So, what is the best way to get this darned chrome trim ring off
>> without damaging anything?  Should I fabricate a special tool to do the
>> job?  If so, what are its dimensions?
>
>IMO, just do the tool.
>
>Got an old PC lying around?  I hear that I/O slot covers make a usable 
>tool.
>
>Mine is made from an old hacksaw blade (so perhaps 1/2" wide).  I heated it 
>with a propane torch to bend a right angle, then cut the end off about 1/4" 
>away from the bend.  Ground the >eeth off and wrapped some plastic 
>(electrical) tape around it to protect the cars finish.
>
>- Randall



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3565 - Release Date: 04/11/11


From spamiam at comcast.net  Mon Apr 11 17:32:43 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:32:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] headlamp removal
In-Reply-To: <09a001cbf89f$d21410d0$763c3270$@rr.com>
References: <76167E44935248829BA2B57954C8D539@I7Quad>
	<09a001cbf89f$d21410d0$763c3270$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <2222413236A443379C19C2C74731535A@I7Quad>

Randall,

Thanks.  I fashioned a tool out of some steel I had lying around.  I bent it 
about 3/16" from the end at a right angle, then heat treated it with a MAPP 
torch, quenched it for "hardening" and then tried it.  I got the trim ring 
off reasonably easily with the tool.  The best place to pull appears to be 
right where this a little rivet on the ring.  That is where there is a 
locking tab.

I got the lamp replaced.

Interesting observations to follow in another post.

-Tony

-----Original Message----- 
>From: Randall
>Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 7:26 PM
>To: spamiam at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: [TR] headlamp removal
>
>> So, what is the best way to get this darned chrome trim ring off
>> without damaging anything?  Should I fabricate a special tool to do the
>> job?  If so, what are its dimensions?
>
>IMO, just do the tool.
>
>Got an old PC lying around?  I hear that I/O slot covers make a usable 
>tool.
>
>Mine is made from an old hacksaw blade (so perhaps 1/2" wide).  I heated it 
>with a propane torch to bend a right angle, then cut the end off about 1/4" 
>away from the bend.  Ground the >eeth off and wrapped some plastic 
>(electrical) tape around it to protect the cars finish.
>
>- Randall



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3565 - Release Date: 04/11/11


From trglory at verizon.net  Mon Apr 11 17:55:36 2011
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:55:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] headlamp removal
In-Reply-To: <76167E44935248829BA2B57954C8D539@I7Quad>
References: <76167E44935248829BA2B57954C8D539@I7Quad>
Message-ID: <003d01cbf8a3$f4df1750$de9d45f0$@net>

Use the tool you made to put the clips on your door window seals. :^)

Joe Laurito


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spamiam at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 6:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] headlamp removal

I have a really stupid question.  I want to get my headlamp out (to install an H4 type) and I dont have the special tool to pry under the chrome trim.  I gently inserted a screwdriver in accessible places, but I could just feel something like a clip bending, not releasing.  

So, what is the best way to get this darned chrome trim ring off without damaging anything?  Should I fabricate a special tool to do the job?  If so, what are its dimensions?

-Tony
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net



From spamiam at comcast.net  Mon Apr 11 17:57:31 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:57:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Comparison of headlamp current draw.
In-Reply-To: <09a001cbf89f$d21410d0$763c3270$@rr.com>
References: <76167E44935248829BA2B57954C8D539@I7Quad>
	<09a001cbf89f$d21410d0$763c3270$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <F0AEDB198E45404E9631C4877F38D70A@I7Quad>

I have been in the process of upgrading my headlights.  Boy, did they need 
it!

I had some old original Lucas sealed beams, some new (but at least 12 years 
old) Sylvania tungsten (not halogen) sealed beam lights, and my new H4 with 
55/60 bulbs.  I tested them on my bench power supply which I am in the 
process of building myself, so the current measurements are not extremely 
well calibrated, but definitely comparable to each other.

Tested at a regulated 12V, because that is where most bulbs have their 
wattage specified by the manufacturer

Lucas:
     Low:  3.1 Amps (37 watts)
     High:  3.89 Amps (46.7 watts)

Sylvania:
     Low:  3.94 A   (47.3W)
     High:  4.65 A, (55.8W)

H4:
     Low: 4.73 A  (56.8W)
     High: 5.23 A (62.8W)

It would appear that my old Lucas lights were in NO danger of melting my 
wiring or switches!  Even the plain old Sylvania sealed beams would have 
been a noticeable improvement.  But the H4's with relays ought to be 
wonderful.

BTW, the SLR-576 driving lights only draw 3.62A (43.4W).  Probably the good 
H4 lights will be more effective than BOTH my old Lucas lights PLUS the 
SLR-576 lights!

One of the reasons I did this test, other than interesting results, was that 
I needed to determine whether the original plugs needed to be re-indexed to 
fit the H4 bulbs.  Many years ago I put Cibie Z-beams with H4's on my 1982 
Honda Accord, and I needed to use an adapter plug to get it to work 
properly.  I had thought I would need to move wires around, but the H4 
terminals are the same as the old sealed beam terminals

-Tony 


From spamiam at comcast.net  Mon Apr 11 17:57:31 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:57:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Comparison of headlamp current draw.
In-Reply-To: <09a001cbf89f$d21410d0$763c3270$@rr.com>
References: <76167E44935248829BA2B57954C8D539@I7Quad>
	<09a001cbf89f$d21410d0$763c3270$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <F0AEDB198E45404E9631C4877F38D70A@I7Quad>

I have been in the process of upgrading my headlights.  Boy, did they need 
it!

I had some old original Lucas sealed beams, some new (but at least 12 years 
old) Sylvania tungsten (not halogen) sealed beam lights, and my new H4 with 
55/60 bulbs.  I tested them on my bench power supply which I am in the 
process of building myself, so the current measurements are not extremely 
well calibrated, but definitely comparable to each other.

Tested at a regulated 12V, because that is where most bulbs have their 
wattage specified by the manufacturer

Lucas:
     Low:  3.1 Amps (37 watts)
     High:  3.89 Amps (46.7 watts)

Sylvania:
     Low:  3.94 A   (47.3W)
     High:  4.65 A, (55.8W)

H4:
     Low: 4.73 A  (56.8W)
     High: 5.23 A (62.8W)

It would appear that my old Lucas lights were in NO danger of melting my 
wiring or switches!  Even the plain old Sylvania sealed beams would have 
been a noticeable improvement.  But the H4's with relays ought to be 
wonderful.

BTW, the SLR-576 driving lights only draw 3.62A (43.4W).  Probably the good 
H4 lights will be more effective than BOTH my old Lucas lights PLUS the 
SLR-576 lights!

One of the reasons I did this test, other than interesting results, was that 
I needed to determine whether the original plugs needed to be re-indexed to 
fit the H4 bulbs.  Many years ago I put Cibie Z-beams with H4's on my 1982 
Honda Accord, and I needed to use an adapter plug to get it to work 
properly.  I had thought I would need to move wires around, but the H4 
terminals are the same as the old sealed beam terminals

-Tony 


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr 11 19:29:24 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 18:29:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] headlamp removal
In-Reply-To: <2222413236A443379C19C2C74731535A@I7Quad>
References: <76167E44935248829BA2B57954C8D539@I7Quad>	<09a001cbf89f$d21410d0$763c3270$@rr.com>
	<2222413236A443379C19C2C74731535A@I7Quad>
Message-ID: <0a0b01cbf8b1$0f5d3e60$2e17bb20$@rr.com>

> The best place to pull

Oops, forgot to mention that.  The manual suggests using a prying motion,
rather than pulling.  But you are quite right about under the clip being the
best place to do it.

-- Randall 


From spamiam at comcast.net  Mon Apr 11 19:56:19 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 21:56:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Comparison of headlamp current draw.
In-Reply-To: <0a0a01cbf8b0$c15b74c0$44125e40$@rr.com>
References: <76167E44935248829BA2B57954C8D539@I7Quad>	<09a001cbf89f$d21410d0$763c3270$@rr.com>
	<F0AEDB198E45404E9631C4877F38D70A@I7Quad>
	<0a0a01cbf8b0$c15b74c0$44125e40$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <E01096E8E6014B2D90866FD50F124EA8@I7Quad>

Randall,

I just checked my TR4/4A workshop manual.  It lists RHD Home market bulbs as 
60/36 watts.  For left hand drive, it is either 36/36 or 45/40.  So, my 
measurement of 46/37 is pretty close to the higher standard rating.  As I 
said, I believe these are the original bulbs from 1967, and probably had 
more use of lows than highs, resulting in a slight diminishment of the low 
beam power....

-Tony

-----Original Message----- 
>From: Randall
>Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 9:27 PM
>To: spamiam at comcast.net
>Subject: RE: [TR] Comparison of headlamp current draw.
>
>Current (and output) does go down with time for tungsten bulbs.  The
>filament literally evaporates!  I've seen old Lucas dash bulbs where the
>glass was completely black from all the tungsten deposited on it.
>
>But the late TR3A/B owner's manual gives the spec as 36/36 watts, for "dip
>right" (aka LHS) export cars; so your bulbs may have still been operating
>close to their design point.
>
>-- Randall



From geo at ohio.net  Wed Apr 13 09:40:54 2011
From: geo at ohio.net (geo)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 11:40:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] od wiring
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=GZgWxkxYH_+wHOVRC5t0M-UOXpg@mail.gmail.com>

hi all....
 anyone able to provide a step by step wiring of a 73 gt-6 overdrive....
such as relay w1 to ignition relay w2 connect to? & so on?....im trying to
include the inhibitor switches and i have no wiring harness
thanks geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Apr 13 16:57:57 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 15:57:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] od wiring
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=GZgWxkxYH_+wHOVRC5t0M-UOXpg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=GZgWxkxYH_+wHOVRC5t0M-UOXpg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008801cbfa2e$3bb52d00$b31f8700$@rr.com>

>  anyone able to provide a step by step wiring of a 73 gt-6
> overdrive....

The diagram I have for a GT6 Mk-3 shows:

W1 gets power from terminal 3 on the ignition switch
W2 goes to the gearbox switch
C1 gets power from terminal 2 on the ignition switch
C2 goes to the solenoid

The other side of the gearbox switch gets wired to the switch in the gear
lever.  The other side of the gear lever switch is grounded.

The diagram appears to have been scanned from some manual, but I don't know
which one or how accurate it is.  But maybe this will help.  The above
description should work fine, even if it isn't exactly the factory wiring.

FWIW, I found that it improved relay life considerably to install a diode
across the contacts, to help absorb the inductive kickback from the
solenoid.  I'm thinking about adding one to the coil side as well, since my
repro operating switch is getting flakey after "only" 15 years.

(Mine is an A-type, but it's the same solenoid as a D.)

-- Randall 


From boggiano at charter.net  Thu Apr 14 06:39:36 2011
From: boggiano at charter.net (Tom Boggiano)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 08:39:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Replacement seats
Message-ID: <242D4F97362B4809824688A8939D3227@CR.LOCAL>

Hi All, 
Having just finished revamping the interior, I put back in the car the ratty old seats. I would like to upgrade them now and I am looking to procure new set. The ones there are not origional for me the new ones do not need to be either. RevingtosTR have an aftermarket seat available. has anyone used them? What other options have you used for seats?
Thanks for any tips
Tom

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 14 07:37:51 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 06:37:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] exhaust
Message-ID: <525461.63772.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I'm putting together my own exhaust system and have a question about hangers.  
Is it essential to have rubber as part of a hanger between the exhaust and the 
frame or can the exhaust be connected to the frame with all metal?  I'm 
wondering about vibration and whether that weakens an all metal hanger, leading 
to breakage over time.  

just wondering
thanks

gary n.

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Apr 14 08:04:41 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 14:04:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] exhaust
In-Reply-To: <525461.63772.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <213311525.4123552.1302789881940.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

It is not just vibration.  It's expansion.  Your exhaust system is considerably longer when hot than when cold, so your hangers need to allow for that change.

I remember I had a system put on a (non-TR) car some years ago.  System was perfect when they fired it up at the shop.  By the time I got home, it was knocking on chassis parts.  Took it back to the shop so they could see it hot.  They made changes and it was OK thereafter.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2011 8:37:51 AM
> Subject: [TR] exhaust
> 
> I'm putting together my own exhaust system and have a question about
> hangers.  
> Is it essential to have rubber as part of a hanger between the exhaust
> and the 
> frame or can the exhaust be connected to the frame with all metal? 
> I'm 
> wondering about vibration and whether that weakens an all metal
> hanger, leading 
> to breakage over time.  
> 
> just wondering
> thanks
> 
> gary n.
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr 14 08:13:07 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 07:13:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] exhaust
In-Reply-To: <525461.63772.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <525461.63772.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <05c701cbfaae$1464b970$0301a8c0@randall>

> I'm 
> wondering about vibration and whether that weakens an all 
> metal hanger, leading 
> to breakage over time.  

I'd be more worried about the effect on the exhaust system (and the driver).

The engine actually moves around a fair amount on it's mounts (unless you've
eliminated the rubber in those as well), and mufflers in particular aren't
as strong as you might think.  

One alternative is a flexible coupling between the engine and the (first)
muffler, but generally it's a lot cheaper and easier to just use soft mounts
for the exhaust.

-- Randall  


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr 14 11:51:31 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 10:51:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD output bearing OD
Message-ID: <018401cbfacc$975b8160$c6128420$@rr.com>

Does anyone happen to know the outside diameter of the TR2-6 gearbox or
overdrive output bearing, Stanpart 513897 ?  (This is actually the same
bearing for all 3 cases: non-OD, A-type and J-type.)

-- Randall 




From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Apr 14 13:18:59 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 19:18:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] OD output bearing OD
In-Reply-To: <018401cbfacc$975b8160$c6128420$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <691801765.1176738.1302808739865.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



Randall, 



The 6206 bearing o.d. is 62mm. 



Ed 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2011 1:51:31 PM 
Subject: [TR] OD output bearing OD 

Does anyone happen to know the outside diameter of the TR2-6 gearbox or 
overdrive output bearing, Stanpart 513897 ? ?(This is actually the same 
bearing for all 3 cases: non-OD, A-type and J-type.) 

-- Randall 



_______________________________________________ 
Triumphs at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation ?$11.47 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net 


From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Apr 14 13:30:27 2011
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 12:30:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR OD Trans usage
Message-ID: <989493.27244.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     What would happen if a TR3 trans was left in OD and then you backed up in reverse? Anything or nothing? Just wondering. With the arrival of spring weather, my daughter and wife are both starting to drive the TR more and I am wondering what they could do to it.

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Apr 14 13:49:25 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 12:49:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2 ... TS-141
Message-ID: <a06240805c9ccff898f79@[192.168.2.3]>

I good friend of my here in Northern California owns Triumph TR2 ... 
TS-141.  Due to some unfortunate circumstances he needs to sell it. 
It is a good restoration project, and he has most, if not all of the 
parts.  If there are Serious inquiries, please contact me and I will 
put you in touch with him.

No Financial Interest for Me.
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Apr 14 14:03:37 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 13:03:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR OD Trans usage
In-Reply-To: <989493.27244.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <989493.27244.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimPXPdBMNd7vQAmJ=n3UtvOk8CPjQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Apr 14, 2011 at 12:30 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>wrote:

>     What would happen if a TR3 trans was left in OD and then you backed up
> in reverse? Anything or nothing?


If the cut-out switches are correct and do their job... nothing.

If they do not work for some reason and the OD is truly engaged in
reverse... expensive things will likely break.

If it were me I would be tempted to install a toggle switch or such to
easily & completely disable the power to the OD solenoid when a novice
driver was at the wheel.

Geo

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Apr 14 14:21:29 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 13:21:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR OD Trans usage
In-Reply-To: <989493.27244.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <989493.27244.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <094A7767173B47A3A782504768168468@Vista>

Doesn't the TR3 OD have a reverse lockout like the Spit OD's have?

JOe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2011 12:30 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR OD Trans usage

     What would happen if a TR3 trans was left in OD and then you backed up
in reverse? Anything or nothing? Just wondering. With the arrival of spring
weather, my daughter and wife are both starting to drive the TR more and I
am wondering what they could do to it.

     -Bill in Tehachapi
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Apr 14 18:39:14 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 20:39:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Testing, deleate
Message-ID: <BLU160-w41564DA2CDD04D7301AB4ABAAC0@phx.gbl>


http://cid-b7b9c2ce6905be67.photos.live.com/self.aspx/FT/pict%202.jpg
 
Experimenting with something, ignore.
 
Marty  		 	   		  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr 14 21:07:07 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 20:07:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR OD Trans usage
In-Reply-To: <094A7767173B47A3A782504768168468@Vista>
References: <989493.27244.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<094A7767173B47A3A782504768168468@Vista>
Message-ID: <06a701cbfb1a$34853e20$0301a8c0@randall>

> Doesn't the TR3 OD have a reverse lockout like the Spit OD's have?

They do.  And hence, assuming everything is working correctly, the only
thing that would happen is the car backs up.

-- Randall  


From Catpusher at aol.com  Thu Apr 14 21:14:43 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 23:14:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  OD output bearing OD
Message-ID: <14365.73b7ccfe.3ad91223@aol.com>

Randall,
 
I just measured the OD of a NOS  SP 75 G with dial calipers and  it was 
2.438"
 
Hardy
 
 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: [TR] OD  output bearing OD
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:  <018401cbfacc$975b8160$c6128420$@rr.com>
Content-Type:  text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"

Does anyone happen to know  the outside diameter of the TR2-6 gearbox or
overdrive output bearing,  Stanpart 513897 ?  (This is actually the same
bearing for all 3 cases:  non-OD, A-type and J-type.)

-- Randall  


From cofrog at q.com  Fri Apr 15 12:45:47 2011
From: cofrog at q.com (cofrog at q.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 14:45:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Coil Resistance
In-Reply-To: <210520951.229366.1302893084305.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <521553293.229397.1302893147706.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>




I'm confused (again).? What coil resistance do I use with a Pertronix LU142A ?Ignition?? I have two different cars and two different ?setups.? A street TR4 which has the 1.5 ohm internal ballasted ?coil and a TR4A racer with am external ?ballast and a ?3 ohm coil.? Both are negative ground.? Some folks on the web say use only a 3 ohm coil (unballasted?) with the Pertronix.? It appears my coil shot craps on the street car and took out the I gnitor.? So I'm double checking what resistance coil is proper. 



I want to give kudos to Marvin at Pertronix who replaced the toasted LU142A eventhough it was out of warranty by a few weeks.? 



Thanks, 



Dan

From cofrog at q.com  Fri Apr 15 13:20:02 2011
From: cofrog at q.com (cofrog at q.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 15:20:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Bees?
In-Reply-To: <521553293.229397.1302893147706.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <76544409.231302.1302895202105.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>

I don't know where all the "B"s came from. My ISP (Qwest) changed my e-mail and it sucks!  Sorry the email was hard to read.

----- Original Message -----
From: cofrog at q.com
To: "triumph fot" <fot at autox.team.net>, "triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2011 12:45:47 PM
Subject: [Fot] Coil Resistance

I'm confused (again).B  What coil resistance do I use with a Pertronix LU142A
B Ignition?B  I have two different cars and two different B setups.B  A street
TR4 which has the 1.5 ohm internal ballasted B coil and a TR4A racer with am
external B ballast and a B 3 ohm coil.B  Both are negative ground.B  Some
folks on the web say use only a 3 ohm coil (unballasted?) with the
Pertronix.B  It appears my coil shot craps on the street car and took out the
I gnitor.B  So I'm double checking what resistance coil is proper.



I want to give kudos to Marvin at Pertronix who replaced the toasted LU142A
eventhough it was out of warranty by a few weeks.B 



Thanks,



Dan
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cofrog at q.com



From Catpusher at aol.com  Fri Apr 15 21:41:29 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 23:41:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR OD Trans usage
Message-ID: <b0d6d.7271670.3ada69e9@aol.com>

Bill, 
 
If they take the back road to Willow Springs, ( a little local  Tehachapi 
insight) suggest strongly that they do not spin out, as that can  hurt the OD.
 
Hardy
 
 
From:  William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Subject: [TR] TR OD Trans  usage
What would happen if a TR3 trans was left in  OD and then you backed up in 
reverse? Anything or nothing? Just wondering.  With the arrival of spring 
weather, my daughter and wife are both starting to  drive the TR more and I am 
wondering what they could do to it.

-Bill in  Tehachapi


From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Apr 15 22:21:50 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 04:21:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR OD Trans usage
In-Reply-To: <b0d6d.7271670.3ada69e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1185180598.4222845.1302927710145.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

In a spin, both feet in.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: Catpusher at aol.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc: wsb1960tr3a at att.net
> Sent: Friday, April 15, 2011 10:41:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Subject:  TR OD Trans usage
> 
> Bill, 
>  
> If they take the back road to Willow Springs, ( a little local 
> Tehachapi 
> insight) suggest strongly that they do not spin out, as that can  hurt
> the OD.
>  
> Hardy
>  
>  
> From:  William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR OD Trans  usage
> What would happen if a TR3 trans was left in  OD and then you backed
> up in 
> reverse? Anything or nothing? Just wondering.  With the arrival of
> spring 
> weather, my daughter and wife are both starting to  drive the TR more
> and I am 
> wondering what they could do to it.
> 
> -Bill in  Tehachapi
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Apr 16 00:32:16 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 23:32:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] TS-141
Message-ID: <a06240802c9cee72a0d6d@[192.168.2.3]>

For the Four (4) replies ... so far ... I am still trying to contact 
the owner ... again ... Asking permission to put you into direct 
contact ... he knows all the answers. I have seen the car and from 
what I observed it is pretty much rust free, and as I said earlier 
... pretty much complete. As for engine/transmission numbers ... 
sorry, no clue. I "think" note the ""s the color is "periwinkle" with 
"persimmon" interior, or something like that.  Further information 
will follow, shortly I hope.

As for the rest of the list ... sorry for the bandwidth, just simpler for me.
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr 16 00:37:36 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 01:37:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR OD Trans usage
In-Reply-To: <1185180598.4222845.1302927710145.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.eme
	ryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <b0d6d.7271670.3ada69e9@aol.com>
	<1185180598.4222845.1302927710145.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20110416063752.2E9A5187650@autox.team.net>

Yeah, but if you are in OD at the time and end up going backwards in 
gear, you no longer have an OD.

- Tony

At 11:21 PM 4/15/2011, pethier at comcast.net wrote:
>In a spin, both feet in.
>
>Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
>1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
>2004 Suburban 8.1
>2005 Lotus Elise
>2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
>pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
>http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>http://www.mnautox.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
> > From: Catpusher at aol.com
> > To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Cc: wsb1960tr3a at att.net
> > Sent: Friday, April 15, 2011 10:41:29 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TR] Subject:  TR OD Trans usage
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > If they take the back road to Willow Springs, ( a little local
> > Tehachapi
> > insight) suggest strongly that they do not spin out, as that can  hurt
> > the OD.
> >
> > Hardy
> >
> >
> > From:  William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> > Subject: [TR] TR OD Trans  usage
> > What would happen if a TR3 trans was left in  OD and then you backed
> > up in
> > reverse? Anything or nothing? Just wondering.  With the arrival of
> > spring
> > weather, my daughter and wife are both starting to  drive the TR more
> > and I am
> > wondering what they could do to it.
> >
> > -Bill in  Tehachapi
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Manage your account:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Manage your account: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com



From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat Apr 16 07:56:59 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 09:56:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR OD Trans usage
In-Reply-To: <1185180598.4222845.1302927710145.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1185180598.4222845.1302927710145.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DA9A02B.3020009@bright.net>

The other axiom - if in doubt, both feet out.  Ted


On 4/16/2011 12:21 AM, pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> In a spin, both feet in.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
> 2004 Suburban 8.1
> 2005 Lotus Elise
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> http://www.mnautox.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> From: Catpusher at aol.com
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Cc: wsb1960tr3a at att.net
>> Sent: Friday, April 15, 2011 10:41:29 PM
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Subject:  TR OD Trans usage
>>
>> Bill,
>>
>> If they take the back road to Willow Springs, ( a little local
>> Tehachapi
>> insight) suggest strongly that they do not spin out, as that can  hurt
>> the OD.
>>
>> Hardy
>>
>>
>> From:  William Brewer<wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
>> Subject: [TR] TR OD Trans  usage
>> What would happen if a TR3 trans was left in  OD and then you backed
>> up in
>> reverse? Anything or nothing? Just wondering.  With the arrival of
>> spring
>> weather, my daughter and wife are both starting to  drive the TR more
>> and I am
>> wondering what they could do to it.
>>
>> -Bill in  Tehachapi
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Manage your account:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx at bright.net
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Apr 16 13:44:32 2011
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 15:44:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wiper Switch Hook-up
In-Reply-To: <a06240802c9cee72a0d6d@[192.168.2.3]>
References: <a06240802c9cee72a0d6d@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <071701cbfc6e$b9f897f0$2de9c7d0$@net>

For the collective of wisdom of the list.

I have a 2-speed wiper motor from a TR4A that I am thinking about installing
in my TR3 project.  The original DR2 is non-functional (I guess too many
days just sitting in high humidity).

There are three wires coming out of the motor that corresponds to the
schematic at Advance Autowire 
http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf page 4.  

Green (hot)
Brown/Green (fast terminal)
Red/Green (slow terminal)
Black is connected to the external housing (ground).

The switch I have is the same as:
http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/?actio
n=view&current=TR4a_2-speed_pull-pull-push_switch.jpg 
>From top down / back to front; Terminals are 1  4  6  7  8

Again referencing Dan's schematics
http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf page 2
The switch is more in line with what is on a TR6.

Is it possible to connect what I have or am I off-base.  I don't want to go
to the expense of different motor - but I can replace the switch if there is
a better choice.  What might be a suitable alternative?  I don't know the
terminal layout but one suggestion is the lucas 39156 (54033632) which is a
two-terminal light switch from a Stag.

Thanks in advance.
Carl
TS81802LO 'getting there'




Thanks 
Carl
 








From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 16 14:48:47 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 13:48:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wiper Switch Hook-up
In-Reply-To: <071701cbfc6e$b9f897f0$2de9c7d0$@net>
References: <a06240802c9cee72a0d6d@[192.168.2.3]>
	<071701cbfc6e$b9f897f0$2de9c7d0$@net>
Message-ID: <008701cbfc77$af473ba0$0301a8c0@randall>

> The switch I have is the same as:
> http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%
> 20Items/?actio
> n=view&current=TR4a_2-speed_pull-pull-push_switch.jpg 
> >From top down / back to front; Terminals are 1  4  6  7  8

Sure, that will work (assuming you really have the same switch, there are
several different ones that look nearly identical).

Connect ground (black) to pin 1, 
slow speed (red/light green according to Dan's diagram) to pin 4,
high speed (brown/light green "  "  ) to pin 8.

Leave the others open.

The full switch logic is:
Off:  1 to 6 to 7
Low:  1 to 4 to 6 to 7
High: 1 to 4 to 7 to 8

> don't know the
> terminal layout but one suggestion is the lucas 39156 
> (54033632) which is a
> two-terminal light switch from a Stag.

Took me awhile to find that one, it's only for a RHD, Mk II Stag.  It's also
kind of big, about 1.75" in diameter, and has five tabs (though two sets of
two are parallel, so only 3 contacts).  Wire it the same as above, the
numbers 1, 4, 8 are molded into the back of the switch.

-- Randall  


From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Apr 16 17:58:04 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 23:58:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR OD Trans usage
Message-ID: <808756619.4247439.1302998284614.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I keep forgetting that the OD and gearbox are connected regardless of the clutch position.  This is my first overdrive car, and it still confuses me sometimes.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Apr 17 04:06:42 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2011 11:06:42 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR OD Trans usage
In-Reply-To: <808756619.4247439.1302998284614.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <808756619.4247439.1302998284614.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <456320.21981.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

The golden rule with all overdrive cars - regardless of make, is to disengage 
when you move the lever to neutral prior to starting off in 1st gear or 
reversing. It very quickly becomes second nature. All my cars had the solenoid 
click?to remind me it was still engaged.

Jonmac

From spamiam at comcast.net  Sun Apr 17 06:41:25 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2011 08:41:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Coil Resistance & Pertronics
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1302976802.12542.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1302976802.12542.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <100BBF70FF6F4D4B881F76772835158C@I7Quad>

Dan,

The 1.5 ohm coil needs external ballast to bring the overall resistance to 
about 3 ohms.  In other words, the 1.5 ohm coil runs on 6V.  The purpose of 
that is to allow the ignition switch to sent power which bypasses the 
ballast when starting the car.  When the started is sucking lots of amps, 
the battery voltage sags to well below 12V.  This will make a standard 12V 
coil put out a weak spark, and start hard, especially if flooded.  Bypassing 
the ballast runs the coil at the equivalent of about 16V while cranking the 
engine.  That short duration of overcurrent will not harm the coil, but will 
assist in starting.

Conversely, the 3 ohm coil should not use a ballast resistor.  It if does 
have a ballast resistor, it will be effectively running on something like 8 
Volts, when it is designed for 12v.  You will get a weak spark in that 
situation.

If you run the 1.5 ohm coil continuously without a ballast resistor, you 
will burn it out and you will probably damage a pertronics that is trying to 
switch the coil.  In my humble opinion, the pertronics is JUST able to 
handle the switching current from a 3 ohm coil.  Doubling that current is 
probably going to be bad.

I have never used a pertronics in a ballasted system.  But here is what I 
THINK you need to do if you do use it in a ballasted system: The pertronics 
unit needs 12V, so it can't tap that from the + side of the coil the way it 
does when you have an unballasted system.  You need a separate 12V supply. 
All the other pertronics connections are the same.  When cranking the 
engine, you will probably be switching higher current thru the coil that 
usual, but for limited durations, this is probably not going to be a 
problem.

-Tony

-----Original Message----- 
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 14:45:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: cofrog at q.com
Subject: [TR] Coil Resistance
To: triumph fot  <fot at autox.team.net>, triumph
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
<521553293.229397.1302893147706.JavaMail.root at md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8




I'm confused (again).? What coil resistance do I use with a Pertronix LU142A 
?Ignition?? I have two different cars and two different ?setups.? A street 
TR4 which has the 1.5 ohm internal ballasted ?coil and a TR4A racer with am 
external ?ballast and a ?3 ohm coil.? Both are negative ground.? Some folks 
on the web say use only a 3 ohm coil (unballasted?) with the Pertronix.? It 
appears my coil shot craps on the street car and took out the I gnitor.? So 
I'm double checking what resistance coil is proper.

I want to give kudos to Marvin at Pertronix who replaced the toasted LU142A 
eventhough it was out of warranty by a few weeks.?

Thanks,

Dan


From jwalker at mainet.com  Sun Apr 17 16:00:47 2011
From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker)
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2011 18:00:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-3B R.H. Front Upper Wishbone Arm
Message-ID: <4DAB2ACF020000EF0000918E@smtp.mainet.com>

While cleaning up front suspension components of my TR-3B in order to install the TR%F magic kit, I discovered a crack just behind the outer end of the R.H. Front Upper Wishbone Arm. If any one on the list has an un-cracked one laying around that you would be willing to part with, pls let me know off list. Otherwise I guess I'll have to get the grinder and MIG welder out and have a go at fixing it. 

TIA,

J WalkerSend
 '62 TR-3B TS 68368


From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Apr 18 11:24:34 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2011 17:24:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Non-TR Tractor Engine Question
In-Reply-To: <456320.21981.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2085467684.57682.1303147474153.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Sorry to bomb the List.  

My '59 Case 211b 30 hp farm tractor makes a loud click when I turn the key, but the starter doesn't even attempt to turn over.  

I've pulled it and put the postive post on the postive terminal of the battery and grounded the body against the negative terminal.  Nothing.  I did put a battery charger to it, and got it to just barely budge, then stop.  

Before I spend $225 to have it rebuilt, that's about all the tests, right?

Thanks!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667
New Hampshire, where my road is still too muddy to get the TR out!

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Apr 18 21:14:40 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2011 21:14:40 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] Well, shucks
Message-ID: <20110419031440.352E92E0C5@bradakis.com>


That wasn't nice.  Had a series of power bumps here at the house over
the weekend that messed with my computers, like the main Team.Net
server.  That old Dell had been rock solid reliable, with an uptime of
over 425 days.  Oh well.  Of course my computer troubles are nothing
at all compared to the tornado havoc over the weekend.  Hopefully no
listers were seriously affected.  I still remember what damage can be
done by twisters from my years in the Midwest.

When I did get the machines back up and running again a few things
didn't quite work out, some software failed to start as it should.
So you may have noticed no Team.Net email for a while.  I was at work
all day so I didn't notice until this evening.  Sorry.  We should be
back in business now, though.

Perhaps last week when I posted about 20 years of Team.Net I should
have put in a pitch for some donations to acquire some newer, more
stable hardware ( bigger UPS ) and some upgraded software.  I
certainly did recieve some donations, will hopefully get around to
thanking folks in a day or two.

So if you have a few bucks laying around and feel like helping to keep
this Team.Net experiment around for another 20 years, feel free to visit
http://www.team.net/donate.html - wait, I better update that file, the
FAX machine is printing blank faxes, another bit of hardware I'll likely
have to replace.  Computers can be so much fun.

Anyway, Team.Net email, forums and web pages should all be back to
mostly normal, thank you for your patience.

mjb.


From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Apr 19 05:06:37 2011
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 07:06:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Non-TR Tractor Engine Question
References: <2085467684.57682.1303147474153.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <42AE71E9D8B74EFFA6E47E58DA2EF5D0@D6254Z51>

Terry -

1. Have you checked to see if the armature turns over freely when the 
starter was removed from the tractor?
2. Are both or all four copper brushes free in their holders, making good 
contact on the rotor segments?
3. Is this a 12v negative ground system or a 6v positive ground?
4. Try barring the engine over - make sure that the engine isn't tight due 
to storage or a water/ice damaged component such as a PTO or hydraulic pump.
5. Be really careful about touching the starter to battery terminals - an 
exploded battery from the hydrogen gas being ignited by a spark is not 
pleasant! Use cables, instead.

Alex Thomson

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2011 1:24 PM
Subject: [TR] Non-TR Tractor Engine Question


> Sorry to bomb the List.
>
> My '59 Case 211b 30 hp farm tractor makes a loud click when I turn the 
> key, but the starter doesn't even attempt to turn over.
>
> I've pulled it and put the postive post on the postive terminal of the 
> battery and grounded the body against the negative terminal.  Nothing.  I 
> did put a battery charger to it, and got it to just barely budge, then 
> stop.
>
> Before I spend $225 to have it rebuilt, that's about all the tests, right?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667
> New Hampshire, where my road is still too muddy to get the TR out!
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net
>
> 



From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Apr 19 05:28:15 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 12:28:15 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Build year for certain cars
Message-ID: <43532.3169.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Sorry to 'bomb' the list with a personal request. I'm completing a list of cars 
that took part in the Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive in 2009 and I need to 
know the model year or build year of cars for the following people. I don't 
currently have their email addresses but I know Bob Lang is one of our group and 
Jeff Kramer is another, so there's two down already. If anyone can help me with 
the other names or find out from people they know who may know someone else, I'd 
be most grateful. Replies off-list please.

Year? TR6 Stan Foster New England Triumphs
Year? TR6 Robert Lang New England Triumphs
Year? TR6 Don Radio Greater Rochester TTC
Year? Spitfire Steve Rossi Greater Rochester TTC
Year? TR8 Richard Truett Detroit Triumphs
Year? TR6 Martyn Shaw Attendee at British Columbia Triumph Registry event.

Many thanks

Jonmac

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Apr 19 12:03:46 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 11:03:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Non-TR Tractor Engine Question
In-Reply-To: <2085467684.57682.1303147474153.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <456320.21981.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<2085467684.57682.1303147474153.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <088001cbfebc$23bd0cd0$6b372670$@rr.com>

> Before I spend $225 to have it rebuilt, that's about all the tests,
> right?

After checking the things Alex outlined, I'd either pull it apart myself, or
find an "auto electric" shop that can do it for you.  $225 is a reasonable
price for a full rebuild, but they can frequently be repaired for
substantially less.  If the windings aren't visibly burned, it may just need
new brushes or bushings.

And a starter is a starter, you don't need a Case specialist or even tractor
specialist to deal with it.

-- Randall 


From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Tue Apr 19 12:31:23 2011
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 11:31:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Non-TR Tractor Engine Question
Message-ID: <007001cbfebf$fccdde70$f6699b50$@roadrunner.com>

Terry,

Ditto to all of Alex's suggestions, plus one: not sure if the battery
connects directly to the engine, but I've always found a common cause of
starter issues stem from a bad connection between the engine and the body.

Brian





From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Apr 19 19:22:34 2011
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 21:22:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Non-TR Tractor Engine Question
In-Reply-To: <2085467684.57682.1303147474153.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2085467684.57682.1303147474153.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DAE355A.7030006@charter.net>

>
> I've pulled it and put the postive post on the postive terminal of the battery and grounded the body against the negative terminal.  Nothing.  I did put a battery charger to it, and got it to just barely budge, then stop.
>    

As well as what everyone else suggested: Is it the kind of starter that 
depends on a bushing in the block to hold one end of the armature?  If 
so, it won't turn until that's supported.

If not, I'd look at the brushes before I sent it out...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Tue Apr 19 19:33:31 2011
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 18:33:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Some parts for sale (TR4A)
In-Reply-To: <7399E824-A30D-4C20-ABF2-F1C1B24ABFA9@ipns.com>
References: <7399E824-A30D-4C20-ABF2-F1C1B24ABFA9@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbfefa$f56a88f0$e03f9ad0$@rr.com>

Hi Darrel,

I haven't heard much in awhile on the supercharger. Did you get it
installed? Did the install go as advertised? Did you get the extra boost
that you thought you'd get?

Inquiring minds need to know.

Johnnie
'67 TR4A

> 
> I've installed the Moss supercharger kit on my TR4A, 
nel1 at san.rr.com


From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 21 16:47:33 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 15:47:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] master cylinder fix
Message-ID: <376138.47435.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I had posted to the list concerning rebuild kits I'd installed in tr-3 (girling) 
master cylinders which had been so tight they stuck when pushed in.  

I decided to simply buy new master cylinders but then thought if I was going to 
pitch the old ones, might as well fiddle with them more and see what happens.  
One of them was looser than the other so I started there and honed a little more 
and it worked much better.  The other one took lots more honing but eventually 
it also now works well.  I'm going to use them and watch them carefully.  The 
only concern I have is that I might have honed too much (or didn't get the 
inside honed evenly) which might result in earlier failure.  Wondering if anyone 
on the list has done this or has a warning for me concerning the fix.
Just thought it might be helpful to share what I tried.

gary n.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 21 16:54:44 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 15:54:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] master cylinder fix
In-Reply-To: <376138.47435.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <376138.47435.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <677621.53588.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

id use it in the clutch, rather than the brake. mine is a TR3.
how did you hone them?
what tools did you use?
Frank




________________________________
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, April 21, 2011 3:47:33 PM
Subject: [TR] master cylinder fix

I had posted to the list concerning rebuild kits I'd installed in tr-3 (girling) 

master cylinders which had been so tight they stuck when pushed in.? 

I decided to simply buy new master cylinders but then thought if I was going to 
pitch the old ones, might as well fiddle with them more and see what happens.? 
One of them was looser than the other so I started there and honed a little more 

and it worked much better.? The other one took lots more honing but eventually 
it also now works well.? I'm going to use them and watch them carefully.? The 
only concern I have is that I might have honed too much (or didn't get the 
inside honed evenly) which might result in earlier failure.? Wondering if anyone 

on the list has done this or has a warning for me concerning the fix.
Just thought it might be helpful to share what I tried.

gary n.
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Apr 21 19:45:36 2011
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 01:45:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Fred Thomas Decal
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w27321840DAA3D00634C5CEBA950@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w27321840DAA3D00634C5CEBA950@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A048F19A074BE54BA1D9E4B8A2A7D88B0F070F@G2W1818.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Nice job Marty.

This url might work better for folks as it is too short to be mucked with by the mailer. Also FOT will bounce this reply so not everyone will get it.

http://tinyurl.com/3o4aqlz

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2011 8:02 PM
To: 6 Digest; FOT; Gary Hunter; Triumph List
Subject: [6pack] Fred Thomas Decal

As you hopefully know by now our friend and Triumph companion Fred Thomas passed away last month.  There were requests for something to remember him by.
A decal has been designed and is currently at the printers.  It is available to all. The cost to cover the making of the decal and or sticker and the mailing them out to you is $2.00 for the first one and $1.00 for each additional ordered and shipped at the same time.  You have two options. The first being a 3 inch diameter sticker that can be placed on your car, toolbox, children or whatever. The second is a 3 inch static cling decal what can be placed on the inside of your windshield, window or any other transparent object you desire.  The decal/sticker design can be seen at  http://cid-b7b9c2ce6905be67.photos.live.com/self.aspx/FT/Fred^_Thomas^_Decal
^_Final.jpg

  The outline of the car in the center of the decal is actually Freds red TR3.  We took a picture of his car and performed some graphic artistry on it and what was left is an outline of his TR3.  Not that it is any different than any other TR3 outline but I thought it was kind of neat that it was Freds.  A big thanks to Darrell Floyd for helping me with that part of it.  Here is how to get them.  I can take PayPal at trmarty at hotmail.com, or you can mail me a check to Marty Sukey 38286 Law Rd. Grafton Ohio 44044.  Include how many of each you want and give me your mailing address.  Orders will be filled first come first serve.  If we run out of product I will refund your money.  I will get them in the mail as soon as I can after they come back from the printers but you might have to be patient.

Marty
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/stan.foster at hp.com


From emw327 at gmail.com  Fri Apr 22 06:15:30 2011
From: emw327 at gmail.com (=?UTF-8?B?ZW1haWwg4oWcIg==?=)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 14:15:30 +0200
Subject: [TR] Coliformia title
Message-ID: <BANLkTikPwYK=7AV1WOjE8uAUqFRwRfnkng@mail.gmail.com>

Hello

I know, its a shame for a TR-driver, and its not a Triumph thing, but...
I know a 1930 Ford model A roadster for Sale.
It is imported to Belgium (European Union) somewhere in the 90-s.
Its cleared by the Euopean Customs, so everyhing looks OK,

But, the owner never registrated it in Belgium,
And he lost the original California title.
Now what I need to obtain a Belgian registration, is
- A Custom declaration (thats OK)
*- The Title of the car...*

Can I as a foreigner apply for a copy, or a substitute of the original
title?
and where should I ask for it???

Greeting from a sunny Belgium (30? Celsius - 86? Fahrenheit)

Guido
TR250-TR3a-Riley Lynx

From eoot at citlink.net  Fri Apr 22 06:33:04 2011
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 08:33:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] master cylinder fix
References: <376138.47435.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <74E22B75E7DF49B18281A52804CD3B50@Office>

Personally Gary, I always have felt that brakes are kinda important and that 
having any kind of doubts about the equipment is not a good thing.  If there 
is any question, I would get thenm rebuilt and sleeved.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2011 6:47 PM
Subject: [TR] master cylinder fix


>I had posted to the list concerning rebuild kits I'd installed in tr-3 
>(girling)
> master cylinders which had been so tight they stuck when pushed in.
>
> I decided to simply buy new master cylinders but then thought if I was 
> going to
> pitch the old ones, might as well fiddle with them more and see what 
> happens.
> One of them was looser than the other so I started there and honed a 
> little more
> and it worked much better.  The other one took lots more honing but 
> eventually
> it also now works well.  I'm going to use them and watch them carefully. 
> The
> only concern I have is that I might have honed too much (or didn't get the
> inside honed evenly) which might result in earlier failure.  Wondering if 
> anyone
> on the list has done this or has a warning for me concerning the fix.
> Just thought it might be helpful to share what I tried.
>
> gary n.
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net
> 


From eoot at citlink.net  Fri Apr 22 07:19:57 2011
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 09:19:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 starting issue
Message-ID: <E100DE22C70D4028895BC2726C58CA1D@WANDERER>

The TR6 engine (in a TVR 2500) has begun a new routine.  When attempting to start cold, the engine will turn over once or twice, quit, turn again, quit then turn abit more normally until it fires. My first thought was battery, so I pulled it and took it to my FLAPS for testing.  Tested good with plenty of charge and cranking power. I will check, clean and tighten connectiosn to starter, but if that doesn't do anything, would the next logical problem be with the starter?  

One other thing I should mention.  The ground cable connector at the battery broke and I happened to have one of the clamp on type on hand.  So I cut the cable and put the new clamp on connector on. The connection seems very tight but is it possible this could do it?  The charging seems OK and everything appears to work as it should when the vehicle is running.

TIA
Ed



=======
Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Apr 22 10:49:50 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 12:49:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] FT Deacals
Message-ID: <BLU160-w390241847D71BA4E4C77B2BA950@phx.gbl>


I am starting to get orders.  Please note that there are both stickers for outside and static cling decals for inside available. You need to specify what you want when you order.
 
Thanks,
Marty 		 	   		  

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Apr 22 12:12:34 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 11:12:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake light switch
Message-ID: <a06240801c9d7755bfc2a@[192.168.2.3]>

Hi Folks,
	The brake light switch on the TR3 is bad ... yes I tested the 
circuit, shorted the wires and they light up.  Can I take the old 
switch to NAPA and ask for "one like this", and when I remove the old 
switch, will the hydraulic fluid run out??

Thanks ...
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 22 13:04:14 2011
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 12:04:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <a06240801c9d7755bfc2a@[192.168.2.3]>
References: <a06240801c9d7755bfc2a@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <793010.72353.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Hey Bill
must be the season. mine just took to not working also.
i do believe you will have a little fluiff run out and then have to bleed the 
brakes. 

take the top off the M/C and wrap Saran wrap around the neck, it will slow down 
how fast the fluiff runs out.
N/A at my local napa.
bought from http://www.bscr.com/. 16% off the moss price and we don't pay 
California sales tax. same bat shipping costs and same bat delivery time.
Frank



________________________________
From: Bill <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, April 22, 2011 11:12:34 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake light switch

Hi Folks,
??? The brake light switch on the TR3 is bad ... yes I tested the circuit, 
shorted the wires and they light up.? Can I take the old switch to NAPA and ask 
for "one like this", and when I remove the old switch, will the hydraulic fluid 
run out??

Thanks ...
-- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake 
it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 22 14:22:42 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 13:22:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <a06240801c9d7755bfc2a@[192.168.2.3]>
References: <a06240801c9d7755bfc2a@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <02f201cc012b$09000700$0301a8c0@randall>

> Can I take the old 
> switch to NAPA and ask for "one like this",

It worked for me.  ISTR they gave me one from an old Ford pickup truck.  But
it depends on who you get at the counter.

> and when I remove the old switch, will the hydraulic fluid run out??

Yes, but you can minimize it by using something to hold the brake pedal
partially depressed.  I have a carpenter's bar clamp similar to
http://www.harborfreight.com/36-inch-bar-clamp-96487.html
where I reversed the heads to make a spreader and it works slick for this.
Didn't even have to bleed afterwards (although I did still get a few drops
out, so put a rag or something to protect your frame paint).

However, after having a 'proper' replacement from one of the big 3, and the
FLAPS switch both fail within a year or so, I decided to go a different
route.  On the 3A, I mounted a TR4 style switch in the pedal box, which
worked great but looked kind of bad under the hood.  So on the TR3 I mounted
it under the dash:
http://tinyurl.com/2efyus7

-- Randall  


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 22 16:29:56 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 15:29:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 starting issue
In-Reply-To: <E100DE22C70D4028895BC2726C58CA1D@WANDERER>
References: <E100DE22C70D4028895BC2726C58CA1D@WANDERER>
Message-ID: <031c01cc013c$cf654d90$0301a8c0@randall>

Ed,

The starter is where I would look first.  Other things to try might be
checking the static timing, or try changing the distributor cap.

-- Randall  


From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Apr 22 16:56:14 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 22:56:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Stalling Issue
In-Reply-To: <031c01cc013c$cf654d90$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1368216853.287910.1303512974544.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

...So, is it possible that a starter that is shorting to ground inside (or something!), could work well enough for a time to start the engine, but somehow cause an engine to stall after three or so minutes?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From cwnfot at gmail.com  Fri Apr 22 17:14:04 2011
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 19:14:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stalling Issue
In-Reply-To: <1368216853.287910.1303512974544.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <031c01cc013c$cf654d90$0301a8c0@randall>
	<1368216853.287910.1303512974544.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <010401cc0142$fa9ffcc0$efdff640$@com>

Good grief!
Why are you suspicious of the starter that way?
IMHO Probably a clogged fuel filter or float bowls.

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) 
and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner
"Reality, it's not what you think."


From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri Apr 22 20:59:41 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 02:59:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4A valve springs
Message-ID: <1459581538.164377.1303527581200.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



List, 



Does anyone out there have the height and o.d. of the inner and outer valve springs for the TR4A? 



Aren't these dimensions about the same as the springs used on 3's and 4's? 



While I'm at it: Are aluminum pushrod tubes particular to TR4A cylinder heads? 



TIA, 



Ed Woods 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 23 01:11:55 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 00:11:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stalling Issue
In-Reply-To: <1368216853.287910.1303512974544.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <031c01cc013c$cf654d90$0301a8c0@randall>
	<1368216853.287910.1303512974544.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <03bd01cc0185$baf70210$0301a8c0@randall>

> ...So, is it possible that a starter that is shorting to 
> ground inside (or something!), could work well enough for a 
> time to start the engine, but somehow cause an engine to 
> stall after three or so minutes?

Not on a TR3

-- Randall  


From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Sat Apr 23 10:55:26 2011
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 17:55:26 +0100
Subject: [TR] Head Off
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C930@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

Hi all- engine removed finally to deal with my cam shaft core plug that dropped out fooling me into thinking the rear crank seal was the culprit. Anyway you may remember I had problems getting smooth running, which seemed like a vacuum problem. I thought I might take the head off and have a look inside. Can I safely take the head off without disturbing the liners and their figure of 8 seals? Also if I have a problem sealing around the inlet manifold, are the new thicker gaskets I read about on the list available for the low port head and if so from who?
Regards
John


John Gillis
Senior Conservator

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr 23 15:19:15 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 16:19:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Head Off
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C930@GOMAIL.colleg
	e.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C930@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <20110423211927.894D518764B@autox.team.net>

You should be able to pull the head without disturbing the figure 8 
seals.  I normally stack a couple of sockets on the head studs and 
put a nut on top to hold the liners in place with the head off, 
though.  That way if you turn the engine over the liners don't move 
with the pistons.

I'm a source of the thick compressible high temp graphite intake / 
exhaust gaskets, but only have them for the high port head.

Tony Drews

At 11:55 AM 4/23/2011, John Gillis wrote:
>Hi all- engine removed finally to deal with my cam shaft core plug 
>that dropped out fooling me into thinking the rear crank seal was 
>the culprit. Anyway you may remember I had problems getting smooth 
>running, which seemed like a vacuum problem. I thought I might take 
>the head off and have a look inside. Can I safely take the head off 
>without disturbing the liners and their figure of 8 seals? Also if I 
>have a problem sealing around the inlet manifold, are the new 
>thicker gaskets I read about on the list available for the low port 
>head and if so from who?
>Regards
>John
>
>
>John Gillis
>Senior Conservator
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Manage your account: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com



From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Apr 23 18:28:46 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 17:28:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake light switch
Message-ID: <a06240803c9d91e1c88e2@[192.168.2.3]>



Hi Folks,
	The brake light switch on the TR3 is bad ... yes I tested the 
circuit, shorted the wires and they light up.  Can I take the old 
switch to NAPA and ask for "one like this"

	Answer: NAPA Part Number : SL147 is a direct replacement.

, and when I remove the old switch, will the hydraulic fluid run out??

	Answer: a dribble, covered the hole with Gorilla Tape, drove to NAPA
	came home installed switch ... no leak of fluif (sorry about 
the previous
	misspelling) ... :-)

Thanks ...
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 23 23:55:49 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 22:55:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Head Off
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C930@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C930@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <04b901cc0244$43705a10$0301a8c0@randall>

> Also if I have a problem sealing 
> around the inlet manifold, are the new thicker gaskets I read 
> about on the list available for the low port head and if so from who?

I don't believe they are available for the low port head.

My suggestions: Remove the studs & pins, then lightly rub a fine machinist's
file (which has flat sides instead of tapered) over the surface to pick up
any high spots.  Repeat the operation for the manifold faces.  If the
manifold faces don't line up (the file rides on one edge), have a machine
shop mill them until they do.

When you replace the studs, check that a nut will spin easily down the
entire threaded portion.  If it binds, replace the stud.  Loosen the nuts
that hold the intake & exhaust manifolds together while you install the
manifolds.  (I just left them off permanently.)  Check that the exhaust
manifold doesn't foul the protruding edge of the cylinder block (usually
only a problem if the head has been milled to increase compression, but
can't hurt to check).  And make sure the intake fits over the pins.

I find that adding a heavy flat washer (sometimes known as a 'setup washer')
to the outermost studs helps seal them.  And use new lockwashers on all of
the studs.  Make sure the bridge pieces fit into the little dimples they
belong in.

If you do all that, it should seal just fine.

-- Randall  


From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Sun Apr 24 07:52:59 2011
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 14:52:59 +0100
Subject: [TR] Head Off - what I found
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C932@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

Removed the head with little trouble, not too surprising considering it never drove further than 2 miles and idling in the garage. here is what I noticed; very black in the bores with carbon particularly 4, again considering it was never run on the roads this is no surprise, two areas of worry, a couple of the studs are covered in what appears to be the dreaded oil/water mix, it appears as bubbles in the coating on the stud and is generally mucky in appearance.  I removed one stud and the same was to be found on the thread area where it screws into the block. Secondly, around the liners and in the water passage way the corrosion light brown deposits are to my eye excessive, I noticed the same in the rad on removal.


John Gillis
Senior Conservator

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun Apr 24 08:32:25 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 10:32:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] BPNW Camshaft TR3-TR4A Performance BP270 setup
Message-ID: <BANLkTinPXusDmEFnDJxbAxvXDonWPPGXfw@mail.gmail.com>

Can anyone point me to the full specs on the BP270 cam?  There are some
specs on the website but was looking for more insight.to verify I
installed/degreed correctly.   My new motor seems to run and idle well  but
not seeing the power increase I expected. It also is prone to overheating in
the city - which it never did before with the old tired engine (~90psi
compression).

It has 600 miles on it now and I'll be doing a compression test later today.

Chris

63 TR4

From spamiam at comcast.net  Sun Apr 24 11:02:14 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 13:02:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A valve springs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.91.1303655567.15492.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.91.1303655567.15492.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7849E791139543AAB4079A2DF366DCDF@I7Quad>

Ed,

I can't comment on the valve spring dimensions (nor the spring rate).  Doesn?t 
the ROM say anything about this?

As for the aluminum push rod tubes, I oserved that mine are aluminum too. 
It is not clear to me that they were EVER painted.  There is no remnant of 
paint on mine while the cast iron head has the paint in good condition.  I 
have no idea where/if a changeover occurred, or if the two types (aluminum 
vs steel) were used interchangeably.

When I repainted my head, I left the push rod tubes natural.  I think they 
look nice in contrast to the painted cast iron.

-Tony

-----Original Message----- 
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 02:59:41 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A valve springs
To: triumph list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
<1459581538.164377.1303527581200.JavaMail.root at sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8



List,

Does anyone out there have the height and o.d. of the inner and outer valve 
springs for the TR4A?
Aren't these dimensions about the same as the springs used on 3's and 4's?
While I'm at it: Are aluminum pushrod tubes particular to TR4A cylinder 
heads?

TIA,

Ed Woods




From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sun Apr 24 11:42:23 2011
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 13:42:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-6 Cam
Message-ID: <C4928FC706594611846761BD93380B8C@D6254Z51>

To the Lists -

I am replacing a camshaft in a '73 TR-6 which had two lobes extremely worn and one lobe nearly gone. Disappointing since this cam has only about 10,000 miles of use. The cam lobes that were still good looking had a lift of about 0.240" but it is now history. I purchased a new camshaft from TRF, part # 307621/GP, which is described as a new, chilled iron, stock cam.  I am not looking for any performance upgrades that would require re-working of the head or other components. Before installing the new cam, I dial-indicated the lifts for each lobe and was surprised that they are only 0.213". Is this the actual specification for a stock cam? I did look at the results of a survey that Ray Hatfield send out in October but felt that most cam upgrades would result in a power band at a higher rpm than I'm looking for, hence the stock TRF item.  Any suggestions?

Alex Thomson

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun Apr 24 12:54:17 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 18:54:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4A valve springs
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinyJcZGw7WtBqo04jfVSsq_-OVhBw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <989096369.214262.1303671257696.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



Chris, 



The head is stamped "511695" on the flat between the first two stud holes on the manifold side. 



Other markings on the head: 



"J15", top front 



"302137" and "V2528" top rear 



Ed 




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> 
To: fogbro1 at comcast.net 
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 2:19:29 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A valve springs 

do you know the number stamped on your head offhand? 

On Fri, Apr 22, 2011 at 10:59 PM, < fogbro1 at comcast.net > wrote: 





From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun Apr 24 13:05:02 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 19:05:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4A valve springs
In-Reply-To: <989096369.214262.1303671257696.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1594455845.214520.1303671902813.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



I see from the TRF parts list that the "511695" is the ST part no. for the head, but how does one determine what head? TR3/4/4A?? 



Ed 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net 
To: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> 
Cc: "triumph list" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 2:54:17 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A valve springs 



Chris, 



The head is stamped "511695" on the flat between the first two stud holes on the manifold side. 



Other markings on the head: 



"J15", top front 



"302137" and "V2528" top rear 



Ed 




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> 
To: fogbro1 at comcast.net 
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 2:19:29 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A valve springs 

do you know the number stamped on your head offhand? 

On Fri, Apr 22, 2011 at 10:59 PM, < fogbro1 at comcast.net > wrote: 





From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 24 14:12:51 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 13:12:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A valve springs
In-Reply-To: <1594455845.214520.1303671902813.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <989096369.214262.1303671257696.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1594455845.214520.1303671902813.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <052401cc02bb$fd332870$0301a8c0@randall>

According to the TR4 SPC, 511695 was fitted to TR4 after CT21740E
http://tinyurl.com/6hmz9cg

My 4A SPC (which I don't have up yet) lists the same part number.

-- Randall  


From eoot at citlink.net  Sun Apr 24 18:10:05 2011
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 20:10:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 starting issue
References: <E100DE22C70D4028895BC2726C58CA1D@WANDERER>
	<031c01cc013c$cf654d90$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1A6FCBB6FC8448AF94C600A2E348AD6B@WANDERER>

Turns out timing was it.  I had attempted to time using a vaccumn gauge.  I 
obviously hosed it up pretty badly.  I static timed today and it is back to 
normal.. thanks to all for the help.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Ed Oot'" <eoot at citlink.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2011 6:29 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] TR6 starting issue


> Ed,
>
> The starter is where I would look first.  Other things to try might be
> checking the static timing, or try changing the distributor cap.
>
> -- Randall
>
>
>
>
>
> =======
> Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
> (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16580)
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> ======= 





=======
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From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sun Apr 24 18:38:38 2011
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 20:38:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A overdrive difficult to engage
Message-ID: <ca6f1.19136be7.3ae61c8e@aol.com>

Hi everyone;
 
Each Spring, during the first time out with my car, I find the overdrive  
does not want to engage for the first couple of attempts. After that, it's  
perfect. 
 
I have driven my car twice this spring and the overdrive was not working at 
 all. Today, I took it out for a third time, on a longer drive. Before I 
left, I  checked the gearbox oil level and then sat with the ignition on, 
engaged fourth  gear and switched the overdrive on. I could distinctly hear the 
solenoid  working. I then went for a drive. No overdrive at all, but I was 
switching it in  and out as if it was working, in case it decided to wake up 
at some point.  Eventually, on a long straight road, having engaged 
overdrive some 5kms  beforehand, the overdrive kicked in suddenly (did not engage 
sluggishly).  Unfortunately, I was just coming up to a red light, so had to 
disengage and  slow. After that, the overdrive would not engage for several 
attempts.  Eventually, the length of time between engaging the switch and the 
actual  engagement of the overdrive got better, to the point that, by the 
time I got  home from my 2 hour drive, it seemed to be working normally. I 
suspect I'll have  to go through the same non-overdrive business the next time 
I drive it,  though.
 
Where should I start?
 
Tim in Ontario, Canada. TS22930LO, built Oct. '57
 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Apr 24 18:57:32 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 20:57:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A overdrive difficult to engage
Message-ID: <3ec7a.488b4ef9.3ae620fc@cs.com>

In a message dated 4/24/2011 7:39:20 PM Central Daylight Time, 
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com writes: 
> Each Spring, during the first time out with my car, I find the overdrive  
> 
> does not want to engage for the first couple of attempts. After that, it's 
>  
> perfect. 
> 
> I have driven my car twice this spring and the overdrive was not working 
> at 
> all. Today, I took it out for a third time, on a longer drive. Before I 
> left, I  checked the gearbox oil level and then sat with the ignition on, 
> engaged fourth  gear and switched the overdrive on. I could distinctly 
> hear the 
> solenoid  working. I then went for a drive. No overdrive at all, but I was 
> 
> switching it in  and out as if it was working, in case it decided to wake 
> up 
> at some point.  Eventually, on a long straight road, having engaged 
> overdrive some 5kms  beforehand, the overdrive kicked in suddenly (did not 
> engage 
> sluggishly).  Unfortunately, I was just coming up to a red light, so had 
> to 
> disengage and  slow. After that, the overdrive would not engage for 
> several 
> attempts.  Eventually, the length of time between engaging the switch and 
> the 
> actual  engagement of the overdrive got better, to the point that, by the 
> time I got  home from my 2 hour drive, it seemed to be working normally. I 
> 
> suspect I'll have  to go through the same non-overdrive business the next 
> time 
> I drive it,  though.
> 
> Where should I start?

I would check the adjustment of the lever.  It might be set at a borderline 
position and just a  little bit more is what it needs to operate.

Dave

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 24 19:06:10 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 18:06:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A overdrive difficult to engage
In-Reply-To: <ca6f1.19136be7.3ae61c8e@aol.com>
References: <ca6f1.19136be7.3ae61c8e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <058501cc02e4$f75b3310$0301a8c0@randall>

> Where should I start?

Given that you can hear the solenoid operating, IMO the logical place to
start would be with a pressure test.  But if you don't happen to have the
gauge and adapter handy, get one on order
http://webspace.webring.com/people/tj/jholekamp/
and check the solenoid adjustment.  First with the book method (3/16" rod
through the lever on the right), and then double-check by measuring the ball
lift.

Nelson's articles on the Buckeye Triumphs site give lots more details:
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

-- Randall  


From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Mon Apr 25 13:46:07 2011
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 12:46:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] I just need to share
Message-ID: <119273.87653.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I love winter - I really do.? But this?season of record snowfalls?has gone on?forever (we?had flurries on Saturday) even for Vermont standards.? 
?
But?Easter morning broke clear and dry, with temps projected to hit 60.??Lots of rain the?past week had washed away the the white haze (read: salt) on the roads.??Brunch with my best girl in a small?village 25 miles down a twisty road was calling.? It was time.
?
FIRST CAR RIDE OF THE SEASON BABY!
?
There... I feel much?better now.
?
Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CF 18928 5-speed??

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr 25 15:30:20 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 14:30:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-6 Cam
In-Reply-To: <C4928FC706594611846761BD93380B8C@D6254Z51>
References: <C4928FC706594611846761BD93380B8C@D6254Z51>
Message-ID: <10df01cc038f$fb3bd1f0$f1b375d0$@rr.com>

> Before
> installing the new cam, I dial-indicated the lifts for each lobe and
> was surprised that they are only 0.213". Is this the actual
> specification for a stock cam?

That appears to be correct for the early 'emissions' cam, which is the
mildest of all the stock TR6 cams.  I have no experience, but I would guess
that you could go to an early PI cam or perhaps the GoodParts GP2 with no
other changes, to get some significant extra oomph without sacrificing too
much drivability.

While it's apart, you might want to consider raising the compression ratio a
bit.  Milling the head is usually a simple, inexpensive operation that
doesn't require any other changes, and it is practically the only
performance enhancement that works by actually improving the efficiency of
the engine (meaning you'll get better gas mileage too).  Others will have
more experience with the 73 TR6 motor in particular, but generally around
9:1 will still run on regular pump gas and provide significant extra
mid-range torque (where it's the most useful on the street) even if it
doesn't do that much for peak power.

-- Randall 


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Apr 25 16:07:05 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 18:07:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] I just need to share
In-Reply-To: <119273.87653.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <119273.87653.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <99196C34D483456CBF33490CCA67AFE6@BobPC>

You're ahead of me Joe............I just got the engine/tranny back in two 
weeks ago and I've been plodding along putting everything else back on/in. 
Today was the hood, grill, shroud & dash support. All that's left is the 
radio and seats. Our spring has been so cold and rainy that it really hasn't 
mattered and I haven't been very motivated...........just as well as I've 
been busy making interior panel sets for people.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Joe Merone
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 3:46 PM
To: Triumph List ; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] I just need to share

I love winter - I really do.  But this season of record snowfalls has gone 
on forever (we had flurries on Saturday) even for Vermont standards.

But Easter morning broke clear and dry, with temps projected to hit 60. 
Lots of rain the past week had washed away the the white haze (read: salt) 
on the roads.  Brunch with my best girl in a small village 25 miles down a 
twisty road was calling.  It was time.

FIRST CAR RIDE OF THE SEASON BABY!

There... I feel much better now.

Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CF 18928 5-speed
______________________________________________ 


From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Apr 25 17:54:32 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 23:54:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Snow Out
In-Reply-To: <1977780195.397751.1303775608855.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <686789725.397814.1303775672835.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

New Hampshire got no snow until nearly January this year.  It's been making up for it with snow dumps late into April.  Nevertheless, made it out of the bog pit that's my 880 yard driveway with the TR3A, got it passed inspection today, and drove home in the rain.  Top down.  Didn't care.  

I've washed, polished and waxed cars three times so far this spring, and it's been raining the very first drive after each time.

Am looking for a better karma blessing of some sort.  The four letter incantations have met with little success.  Is there a charm bracelet, amulet, maybe an animal sacrifice that anyone has tried successfully?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From dlylis at gmail.com  Mon Apr 25 19:11:20 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 01:11:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] Snow Out
Message-ID: <2143708399-1303780280-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-799096067-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Move to Florida. In many respects it is not New England, but it doesn't snow (yet). 
------Original Message------
From: terryrs at comcast.net
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Snow Out
Sent: Apr 25, 2011 7:54 PM

New Hampshire got no snow until nearly January this year.  It's been making up for it with snow dumps late into April.  Nevertheless, made it out of the bog pit that's my 880 yard driveway with the TR3A, got it passed inspection today, and drove home in the rain.  Top down.  Didn't care.  

I've washed, polished and waxed cars three times so far this spring, and it's been raining the very first drive after each time.

Am looking for a better karma blessing of some sort.  The four letter incantations have met with little success.  Is there a charm bracelet, amulet, maybe an animal sacrifice that anyone has tried successfully?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Apr 25 20:05:59 2011
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 22:05:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Snow Out
Message-ID: <172b.19cb7d1.3ae78287@cs.com>

In a message dated 4/25/2011 8:11:44 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dlylis at gmail.com writes: 
> Move to Florida. In many respects it is not New England, but it doesn't 
> snow (yet). 
> 
But be sure to bring your snow shovel.  You'll need it to swat all the 
bugs.

Dave

From triumph at lbcs.ca  Mon Apr 25 20:22:01 2011
From: triumph at lbcs.ca (triumph at lbcs.ca)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 22:22:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Snow Out
In-Reply-To: <686789725.397814.1303775672835.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <686789725.397814.1303775672835.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20110425222201.10035m0o3p4bj58p@lbcs.ca>

Terry, thank you for FINALLY taking the snow off of our hands in  
Alberta! After a very long winter the roads are finally clear and the  
driving is great. Don't worry, this too will pass!

Cheers,
Dave

TR6 CF58310UO

Quoting terryrs at comcast.net:

> New Hampshire got no snow until nearly January this year.  It's been  
> making up for it with snow dumps late into April.  Nevertheless,  
> made it out of the bog pit that's my 880 yard driveway with the  
> TR3A, got it passed inspection today, and drove home in the rain.   
> Top down.  Didn't care.
>
> I've washed, polished and waxed cars three times so far this spring,  
> and it's been raining the very first drive after each time.
>
> Am looking for a better karma blessing of some sort.  The four  
> letter incantations have met with little success.  Is there a charm  
> bracelet, amulet, maybe an animal sacrifice that anyone has tried  
> successfully?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:  
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph at lbcs.ca
>
>




From william.f.daehler at delphi.com  Tue Apr 26 12:16:57 2011
From: william.f.daehler at delphi.com (Daehler, William F)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 18:16:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3, TR4, Moss Supercharger
Message-ID: <698A7A51A6E78241A0B1C1B5CF8B57C52C0591D8@017-CH1MPN1-002.017d.mgd.msft.net>

Has anyone on the list bought this bolt on the Moss blower upgrade for fun?  And also installed it?   I was wondering.  Any joy or tribulation that you want to share?  I was hoping that enough people buy the first thousand so units, so that the price drops in half into my budget range.


Will Daehler
Sr.Mfg.Engineer
Delphi Electronics

**************************************************************************************** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. ****************************************************************************************

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Apr 26 15:48:27 2011
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 21:48:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Snow Out
In-Reply-To: <498936759.452106.1303854498203.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1541851144.452120.1303854507777.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Thank you to all, but especially David, who reminded me that we make a blood sacrifice everytime we wrench these things!  




> New Hampshire got no snow until nearly January this year.  It's been  
> making up for it with snow dumps late into April.  Nevertheless,  
> made it out of the bog pit that's my 880 yard driveway with the  
> TR3A, got it passed inspection today, and drove home in the rain.   
> Top down.  Didn't care.
>
> I've washed, polished and waxed cars three times so far this spring,  
> and it's been raining the very first drive after each time.
>
> Am looking for a better karma blessing of some sort.  The four  
> letter incantations have met with little success.  Is there a charm  
> bracelet, amulet, maybe an animal sacrifice that anyone has tried  
> successfully?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:  
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph at lbcs.ca
>
>



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net


From jdemuth at ties2.net  Tue Apr 26 15:49:47 2011
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 16:49:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo
Message-ID: <0C744D4E-6285-4166-827D-0CDAB011EB0B@ties2.net>

I have a friend looking for a working speedometer for a TR6. He would  
rather not spend the bucks for a rebuild. Anyone?

From dlylis at gmail.com  Tue Apr 26 15:56:02 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 21:56:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] Snow Out
Message-ID: <669826616-1303854961-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-772013502-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Yeah. I saw a bug land on my wife's head. That didn't go over too well. 
------Original Message------
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Snow Out
Sent: Apr 25, 2011 10:05 PM

In a message dated 4/25/2011 8:11:44 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dlylis at gmail.com writes: 
> Move to Florida. In many respects it is not New England, but it doesn't 
> snow (yet). 
> 
But be sure to bring your snow shovel.  You'll need it to swat all the 
bugs.

Dave
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From darrellw at ipns.com  Tue Apr 26 16:01:22 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 15:01:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3, TR4, Moss Supercharger
In-Reply-To: <698A7A51A6E78241A0B1C1B5CF8B57C52C0591D8@017-CH1MPN1-002.017d.mgd.msft.net>
References: <698A7A51A6E78241A0B1C1B5CF8B57C52C0591D8@017-CH1MPN1-002.017d.mgd.msft.net>
Message-ID: <943FE1B4-75B4-45CA-B404-7C70265FECA7@ipns.com>


Hi Will,

I purchased the Moss kit for my TR4A in January, and have had it installed now for a couple of months.  I have not had a lot of time driving it, but I'm quite happy with the performance, both without and with boost.

The installation went fairly well.  I spent about a month putting it on, but never more than an hour at a time, and lot was check checking it out.  If you have much experience working on your car, and don't run into any complications, it is definitely doable over a weekend.  But I combined some other changes as well.

Moss used a TR4 as the test vehicle, so I ran into a few differences, and worked through them with Moss.

The kit is very complete, down to every last nut and bolt that you will need.

I'm getting just under 5 psi of boost with my engine, and I may try out the smaller blower pulley at some point.

Here are some photos during the installation:

http://gallery.me.com/darrellw360#100042

I've heard from someone else that they are currently on backorder.

-Darrell
-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA





From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Apr 26 19:38:26 2011
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 21:38:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Snow Out
In-Reply-To: <686789725.397814.1303775672835.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <686789725.397814.1303775672835.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DB77392.3060608@charter.net>

On 4/25/2011 7:54 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:
> Am looking for a better karma blessing of some sort.  The four letter incantations have met with little success.

Yes, shouting "golf!" rarely helps, in my experience.
>   Is there a charm bracelet, amulet, maybe an animal sacrifice that anyone has tried successfully?
>    

You could try frying a headlight switch or something...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.


From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Apr 26 19:55:13 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 19:55:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Snow Out
In-Reply-To: <4DB77392.3060608@charter.net>
References: <686789725.397814.1303775672835.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4DB77392.3060608@charter.net>
Message-ID: <FE5FF3236C294E04A4AE282290103718@bboffice>

Pull your tranny and lose that part made of unobtanium, Tomorrow it will be
sunny and 70!
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 7:38 PM
To: terryrs at comcast.net
Cc: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] Snow Out

On 4/25/2011 7:54 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:
> Am looking for a better karma blessing of some sort.  The four letter
incantations have met with little success.

Yes, shouting "golf!" rarely helps, in my experience.
>   Is there a charm bracelet, amulet, maybe an animal sacrifice that anyone
has tried successfully?
>    

You could try frying a headlight switch or something...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Apr 26 19:55:13 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 19:55:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Valvoline VR-1 Hi-Zinc
Message-ID: <85BF3DD2E02D499D81FE6567BD4E0F93@bboffice>

If you are using Valvoline VR-1 conventional oil with the high zinc content
for your older LBC, O'Reilly Auto has it on sale for only $2.99qt.
Synthetic is $4.99.
 
Great prices if this is your oil.
 
NFI,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 


From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Apr 26 20:21:01 2011
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 19:21:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] V-6 swap
Message-ID: <917889.42912.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

The possibility of a v-6 swap (into a tr-6) was mentioned in the list and I was 
wondering if anyone has tried that swap.  It makes sense but I'm wondering what 
experience anyone has had doing that.


gary n.

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Apr 27 06:07:59 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 07:07:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?V-6_swap?=
Message-ID: <20110427120753.50E2A187652@autox.team.net>

Why fool with a v6 when you can have a v8?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, Apr 26, 2011 21:21
Subject: [TR] V-6 swap
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

The possibility of a v-6 swap (into a tr-6) was mentioned in the list and I was 
wondering if anyone has tried that swap.  It makes sense but I'm wondering what 
experience anyone has had doing that.


gary n.
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net


From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Apr 27 09:35:25 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 08:35:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] V-6_swap
In-Reply-To: <20110427120753.50E2A187652@autox.team.net>
References: <20110427120753.50E2A187652@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <a06240800c9dde68f82ca@[192.168.2.3]>

Been watching this with interest, I think you have missed the best 
combination. The Twin Cam Straight Six cylinder from a Toyota Supra, 
complete with 6 speed transmission ... should drop right in and would 
be a 300 hp screamer, being all aluminum might even weigh less, as 
for reliability, it is off the charts ... under hood wow factor would 
also be right up there ... just a thought.



>
>
>The possibility of a v-6 swap (into a tr-6) was mentioned in the 
>list and I was
>wondering if anyone has tried that swap.  It makes sense but I'm 
>wondering what
>experience anyone has had doing that.
>
>gary n.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Apr 27 10:06:27 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 09:06:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] V-6_swap
In-Reply-To: <a06240800c9dde68f82ca@[192.168.2.3]>
References: <20110427120753.50E2A187652@autox.team.net>
	<a06240800c9dde68f82ca@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <A8765824F9334451B9DF90F6E9805853@Vista>

Any thoughts about doing that to Rosie?

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 8:35 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] V-6_swap

Been watching this with interest, I think you have missed the best 
combination. The Twin Cam Straight Six cylinder from a Toyota Supra, 
complete with 6 speed transmission ... should drop right in and would 
be a 300 hp screamer, being all aluminum might even weigh less, as 
for reliability, it is off the charts ... under hood wow factor would 
also be right up there ... just a thought.



>
>
>The possibility of a v-6 swap (into a tr-6) was mentioned in the 
>list and I was
>wondering if anyone has tried that swap.  It makes sense but I'm 
>wondering what
>experience anyone has had doing that.
>
>gary n.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net


From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Apr 27 10:19:15 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 09:19:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] V-6_swap
In-Reply-To: <A8765824F9334451B9DF90F6E9805853@Vista>
References: <20110427120753.50E2A187652@autox.team.net>
	<a06240800c9dde68f82ca@[192.168.2.3]>
	<A8765824F9334451B9DF90F6E9805853@Vista>
Message-ID: <a06240803c9ddf21b3797@[192.168.2.3]>

I have thoughts Joe, but AnnaBelle is not ... "sympathetic" ... <:-|

>Any thoughts about doing that to Rosie?
>
>Joe


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Apr 27 10:31:51 2011
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 09:31:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] V-6_swap
In-Reply-To: <a06240803c9ddf21b3797@[192.168.2.3]>
References: <20110427120753.50E2A187652@autox.team.net>
	<a06240800c9dde68f82ca@[192.168.2.3]>
	<A8765824F9334451B9DF90F6E9805853@Vista>
	<a06240803c9ddf21b3797@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <50F627A2977E4C85956D3BED3931E7B9@Vista>

There always seems to be a voice of reason, I guess!

Joe


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill [mailto:anabil007 at comcast.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 9:19 AM
To: Joe Curry; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] V-6_swap

I have thoughts Joe, but AnnaBelle is not ... "sympathetic" ... <:-|

>Any thoughts about doing that to Rosie?
>
>Joe


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA


From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed Apr 27 10:44:24 2011
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 12:44:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
Message-ID: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ@mail.gmail.com>

As my TR3B (TSF202L) gets closer to being on the road than it has for almost
thirty years, it's time to think about paint.  I'd like best recommendations
from the list for paint codes for the early Jaguar dark British Racing
Green.

The later green, code HEN, is dark, but a little lighter than my memory of
the earlier ones.  I'm changing the color from it's original Signal Red,
which took some thought, but green it's gonna be.

Here's where it stood a couple of months ago, after we "modified" the shell
to let the seat go back a little bit farther for this six foot six driver.
 It's mostly in primer now.  Target:  Driving by its 50th birthday on April
12, 2012.
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1143349206_tshwV-L.jpg

TIA,

Don
Saint Louis

From mark at collien.net  Wed Apr 27 12:12:45 2011
From: mark at collien.net (Mark Collien)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 14:12:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1303927202.21187.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1303927202.21187.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DAB6E806-4B4F-4171-9362-7C8866EAB520@collien.net>

Don,

Here are some Jag paint codes, might be helpful.

http://www.classicjaguar.com/paintcodes.html

-- Mark
> 
> The later green, code HEN, is dark, but a little lighter than my memory of
> the earlier ones.  I'm changing the color from it's original Signal Red,
> which took some thought, but green it's gonna be.

-----------------------------
m a r k   c o l l i e n 
mark at collien.net
in the great swamp
-----------------------------



From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Wed Apr 27 12:19:07 2011
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 14:19:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
Message-ID: <BANLkTimoea0siRyUoacrK7Y-0Pkgv+V-Xw@mail.gmail.com>

Don,
I went with the very dark Jaguar Racing Green from current era Jags. At
night it almost looks black. I'm totally pleased with the result; it's a
beautiful colour, In My Subjective Opinion.
Nowadays there are two greens; any chance you're looking at the lighter one?
Right off I can't recall the code for mine but it's not HEN. I do think it
has an H in it though. HRK or something like that. I'll try and find it once
I get home.
Side note - it was recommended that I use PPG paint. It was incredibly
expensive, and took four coats before the colour was even and correct. I'd
try some other brand if doing it again.
Jim
3A 2TS81417L + O

----------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
>
> As my TR3B (TSF202L) gets closer to being on the road than it has for
> almost
> thirty years, it's time to think about paint.  I'd like best
> recommendations
> from the list for paint codes for the early Jaguar dark British Racing
> Green.
>
> The later green, code HEN, is dark, but a little lighter than my memory of
> the earlier ones.  I'm changing the color from it's original Signal Red,
> which took some thought, but green it's gonna be.
>
> TIA,
>
> Don
> Saint Louis
>
>

From dlylis at gmail.com  Wed Apr 27 15:14:19 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 21:14:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] V-6_swap
Message-ID: <1219956869-1303938858-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1715334753-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

There is a guy who used to post on six pack and used the handle Bowtie 6. He used a chevrolet V6. I cannot remember his name (or mine some days for that matter)
------Original Message------
From: Bill
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: Joe Curry
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] V-6_swap
Sent: Apr 27, 2011 12:19 PM

I have thoughts Joe, but AnnaBelle is not ... "sympathetic" ... <:-|

>Any thoughts about doing that to Rosie?
>
>Joe


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From darrellw at ipns.com  Wed Apr 27 15:20:28 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 14:20:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] V-6_swap
In-Reply-To: <1219956869-1303938858-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1715334753-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1219956869-1303938858-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1715334753-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <CE5FDEC4-A17C-4F34-AEDF-6256F5F2BDFD@ipns.com>


On Apr 27, 2011, at 2:14 PM, dlylis at gmail.com wrote:

> There is a guy who used to post on six pack and used the handle Bowtie 6. He used a chevrolet V6. I cannot remember his name (or mine some days for that matter)

He's now putting in an EcoTec:

http://bowtie6.com/

-Darrell


From spamiam at comcast.net  Wed Apr 27 15:35:13 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 17:35:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 141
In-Reply-To: <mailman.660.1303921909.15492.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.660.1303921909.15492.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E05CB9E68F9A43EF86494F0E9B8B0165@I7Quad>

Darrell,

BEAUTIFUL!  !

One question off the top of my head.  What about the PCV valve?  What do you 
do with that?  Go back to a road draft tube?

-Tony

-----Original Message----- 
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 15:01:22 -0700
From: Darrell Walker <darrellw at ipns.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3, TR4, Moss Supercharger
To: "Daehler, William F" <william.f.daehler at delphi.com>
Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <943FE1B4-75B4-45CA-B404-7C70265FECA7 at ipns.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


Hi Will,

I purchased the Moss kit for my TR4A in January, and have had it installed 
now for a couple of months.  I have not had a lot of time driving it, but 
I'm quite happy with the performance, both without and with boost.

The installation went fairly well.  I spent about a month putting it on, but 
never more than an hour at a time, and lot was check checking it out.  If 
you have much experience working on your car, and don't run into any 
complications, it is definitely doable over a weekend.  But I combined some 
other changes as well.

Moss used a TR4 as the test vehicle, so I ran into a few differences, and 
worked through them with Moss.

The kit is very complete, down to every last nut and bolt that you will 
need.

I'm getting just under 5 psi of boost with my engine, and I may try out the 
smaller blower pulley at some point.

Here are some photos during the installation:

http://gallery.me.com/darrellw360#100042

I've heard from someone else that they are currently on backorder.

-Darrell


From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Apr 27 15:36:27 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 22:36:27 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] V-6_swap
In-Reply-To: <1219956869-1303938858-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1715334753-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1219956869-1303938858-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1715334753-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <769810.11821.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Instead of going for a V6, what's wrong with a 'baby' V8? Something like the 
Buick lump that Rover used in the Range Rover and others of that ilk. Very 
tunable, nice noise and very available.
I'm reliably informed that one Edward Schumacher who is resident in Ohio 
periodically purveys these power units to the nobility and gentry and maybe he'd 
cut you a good deal?
NFI - but maybe I'll get a warm beer off him on his forthcoming Europe trip?
?
Jonmac

From darrellw at ipns.com  Wed Apr 27 15:38:02 2011
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 14:38:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 141
In-Reply-To: <E05CB9E68F9A43EF86494F0E9B8B0165@I7Quad>
References: <mailman.660.1303921909.15492.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<E05CB9E68F9A43EF86494F0E9B8B0165@I7Quad>
Message-ID: <5BF8DD61-7F26-4C2A-B70C-AAF1E3B07B28@ipns.com>


On Apr 27, 2011, at 2:35 PM, <spamiam at comcast.net> <spamiam at comcast.net> wrote:

> Darrell,
> 
> BEAUTIFUL!  !

Thanks!

> 
> One question off the top of my head.  What about the PCV valve?  What do you do with that?  Go back to a road draft tube?

Yes.  I had an idea of venting into the air cleaner, but ultimately decided just to go with the road draft tube.

-Darrell



From spamiam at comcast.net  Wed Apr 27 15:41:13 2011
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 17:41:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1303927202.21187.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1303927202.21187.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D7B29F42D3BE49F5B5EF14622894120D@I7Quad>

Don,

Jag Brooklands Green is a very nice BRG.  Just on the blue side of the 
blue/yellow balance compared to Triumph Racing green.  IMHO just right.

Mazda Miata made a nice BRG for a single year (AFAIK) 1993.  That is very 
close to TRG, but better.  Less of an olive cast, and less of a chalky base 
to the color too.

-Tony

-----Original Message----- 
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 12:44:24 -0400
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

As my TR3B (TSF202L) gets closer to being on the road than it has for almost
thirty years, it's time to think about paint.  I'd like best recommendations
from the list for paint codes for the early Jaguar dark British Racing
Green.

The later green, code HEN, is dark, but a little lighter than my memory of
the earlier ones.  I'm changing the color from it's original Signal Red,
which took some thought, but green it's gonna be.

Here's where it stood a couple of months ago, after we "modified" the shell
to let the seat go back a little bit farther for this six foot six driver.
It's mostly in primer now.  Target:  Driving by its 50th birthday on April
12, 2012.
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1143349206_tshwV-L.jpg

TIA,

Don
Saint Louis


From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Apr 27 16:08:31 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 18:08:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Life expectancy of TR3 leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <CE5FDEC4-A17C-4F34-AEDF-6256F5F2BDFD@ipns.com>
References: <1219956869-1303938858-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1715334753-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<CE5FDEC4-A17C-4F34-AEDF-6256F5F2BDFD@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <FD02011BEE644911AF6F5D718C9FBB85@DCH6RFC1>

List:

I have noticed a distinct sag on the driver's rear of my TR3.  The car is in
its eighth year post-restoration.  Is this unusually early to have to
replace the springs or have others noticed this happening?

Andrew Uprichard

FWIW, I drove to Lansing, MI, today and found a British Leyland dealership
with TRs in the showroom.  Turns out the 92-year-old owner still likes to
open the place up every day, despite the fact that the only real business
they do is housing customers' cars for them over the winter.  For a moment I
felt I was in an a Twilight Zone movie......


From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Apr 27 16:44:22 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 22:44:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <D7B29F42D3BE49F5B5EF14622894120D@I7Quad>
Message-ID: <810045479.107978.1303944262850.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> Mazda Miata made a nice BRG for a single year (AFAIK) 1993. ?That is
> very 
> close to TRG, but better. ?Less of an olive cast, and less of a chalky
> base 
> to the color too.
> 
> -Tony

Just ask Peter Eagan.  After seeing the perfect BRG on a Lotus Elite, he wanted for his Elan.  The owner lowered his voice and told him it was the Miata paint.

One of our local Triumph members has one of these cars and the color is indeed spot-on.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Apr 27 16:46:24 2011
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 22:46:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] V-6_swap
In-Reply-To: <769810.11821.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1880625208.108100.1303944384861.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
> To: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 4:36:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] V-6_swap
> 
> Instead of going for a V6, what's wrong with a 'baby' V8? Something
> like the 
> Buick lump that Rover used in the Range Rover and others of that ilk.
> Very 
> tunable, nice noise and very available.

And also very light.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From dlylis at gmail.com  Wed Apr 27 16:52:25 2011
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 22:52:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] Life expectancy of TR3 leaf springs
Message-ID: <1593627025-1303944745-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-134803683-@bda2826.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

My after market springs started to sag after one year. You must have stepped up for the good ones. 
------Original Message------
From: Andrew Uprichard
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
To: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Life expectancy of TR3 leaf springs
Sent: Apr 27, 2011 6:08 PM

List:

I have noticed a distinct sag on the driver's rear of my TR3.  The car is in
its eighth year post-restoration.  Is this unusually early to have to
replace the springs or have others noticed this happening?

Andrew Uprichard

FWIW, I drove to Lansing, MI, today and found a British Leyland dealership
with TRs in the showroom.  Turns out the 92-year-old owner still likes to
open the place up every day, despite the fact that the only real business
they do is housing customers' cars for them over the winter.  For a moment I
felt I was in an a Twilight Zone movie......

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From allegrorover at mac.com  Wed Apr 27 17:33:07 2011
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 19:33:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1F366E7F-777D-41D2-929F-E0A608CB3756@mac.com>

Weel I don't know what color you'll wind up with but as far as I can see it looks great so far, good job.....



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489



From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Apr 27 19:36:59 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 18:36:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <810045479.107978.1303944262850.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <D7B29F42D3BE49F5B5EF14622894120D@I7Quad>
	<810045479.107978.1303944262850.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <009d01cc0544$c7772110$56656330$@rr.com>

> Just ask Peter Eagan.  After seeing the perfect BRG on a Lotus Elite,
> he wanted for his Elan.  The owner lowered his voice and told him it
> was the Miata paint.

Now you've got my attention!  Any idea how that compares to "Racing Green Metallic" on a 2008 Elise?

Hmm, still looks kind of dark, but it's darn near impossible to compare colors on a computer monitor.
http://www.miata.net/gallery/images/91brg.jpg

-- Randall 


From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Wed Apr 27 19:43:40 2011
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 18:43:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
Message-ID: <003f01cc0545$b3e7b190$1bb714b0$@roadrunner.com>

Hi Don,

I can tell you that I found whole websites out there on British Racing Green
when I was looking for the right color for my 4A.... This site offers good
info http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/paint.html.

My 4A was code 25 and I was happy with it. I do wish I had used 2-stage
(base coat, clear coat) instead of single stage (base coat only), but at
that time I didn't have any experience spraying clear. I'd suggest using a
high quality paint - I used PPG - and sit down for the cost! And if you
don't spray it yourself, make sure to request a high quality paint.

Let me know if you don't find info out there on paint codes and mixes and
I'll look for the mix of what I used. Good luck!

Off topic - are you planning on going to the FIRST Robotics World
Championship? My team went to last year's event in Atlanta and it was blast!

Brian


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 12:44:24 -0400
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

As my TR3B (TSF202L) gets closer to being on the road than it has for almost
thirty years, it's time to think about paint.  I'd like best recommendations
from the list for paint codes for the early Jaguar dark British Racing
Green.

The later green, code HEN, is dark, but a little lighter than my memory of
the earlier ones.  I'm changing the color from it's original Signal Red,
which took some thought, but green it's gonna be.

Here's where it stood a couple of months ago, after we "modified" the shell
to let the seat go back a little bit farther for this six foot six driver.
 It's mostly in primer now.  Target:  Driving by its 50th birthday on April
12, 2012.
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1143349206_tshwV-L.jpg

TIA,

Don
Saint Louis






From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Apr 28 07:27:34 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 14:27:34 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <003f01cc0545$b3e7b190$1bb714b0$@roadrunner.com>
References: <003f01cc0545$b3e7b190$1bb714b0$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <664668.21878.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

I've been following this thread and would just add my HO on what constitutes 
British Racing Green.
For a start and contrary to popular opinion,?there is no true colour blend or 
mix for BRG. True BRG has a substantial amount of Olive green in it and the 
nearest you'll get to what many on this side of the Atlantic (UK) feel is the 
*right* shade is to examine pre-war Bentleys of the pre-Rolls Royce era. Even 
that isn't an exact science as many have been repainted, but the Bentley Owners 
Club (so I was told in 2002) still keeps the original colour mix formula for 
those who truly aspire to emulating the original colour. Don't know whether it 
is willing to impart the info - but it might, for a donation to club funds?
All other 'British Racing Greens' of the post-war mass production era on Astons, 
Healeys, Jaguars, MG's,?Sunbeams and?Triumphs (to name but a few) are just not 
true British Racing Green.
?
Jonmac

From guy at genfiniti.com  Thu Apr 28 08:46:31 2011
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 09:46:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Front Bumper Support
Message-ID: <34C476B9-1634-444E-9FC1-A53F8CBB38A2@genfiniti.com>

All,

It looks like a car!!!

I'm down to some misc. mechanical items, the electrics, interior and the hood.
I purchased the Advanced Auto Wire kit and am installing it now, having already run the wire to the under-hood components.

Anyway, I got the rear bumper on yesterday, but had to skip the front for now, as the left-front bumper support, which connects at the chassis and terminates just behind the lower valance, is not a proper TR4A part.  I have one from a TR4.  The one I need will begin its upward bend much sooner, as my right side support does.

So, does anyone have this part laying around?  I have a call into TS Imported already.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Apr 28 15:07:06 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 21:07:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4A valve springs
In-Reply-To: <97581160.463779.1304016551909.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <687304490.472665.1304024826105.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>




Listers, 



For those who care about such things, the later TR4s and the TR4As used identical double spring sets on the intake and exhaust valves. But we all know that. What doesn't seem to be widely published are the dimensions of those springs. They are: 


Outer Spring 
3-1/2 working coils 
Free length? 1.67" 
Solid length max 1.052" 

Inner Spring 

ID .648"??+/- .005" 
Free length? 1.63" 
Solid length max 1.02" 

The dimension of the machined recess around the base of the valve guides into which the springs fit apparently remained the same as that of early cylinder heads : considerably greater than?o.d. of the above outer spring. 

So the cylinder head I have on hand has proven to be a TR4A head (confirmed by Terri?Ann's web page and?Ted?Schumacher)?and the springs and collars I purchased are correct, even though they did not appear to be so. On with the rebuild! 

Ed Woods 



From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Apr 28 16:35:14 2011
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 23:35:14 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <2076973907.1809212.1304021197174.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2076973907.1809212.1304021197174.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <106197.1997.qm@web28314.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi, Tony
?
Thanks for your response. There's a lot I could say on the BRG issue as a whole 
but it seems 4k is all the list can manage to take in individual posts - and I 
haven't got a clue what 4k looks like in words or keystrokes. In any case, at 
the end of every day, are there really that many people who give a toss what BRG 
either is - or isn't, and care enough to get it right? Probably very few.?Cheers
?
Jonmac

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Apr 28 18:06:34 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 00:06:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4A valve springs
In-Reply-To: <017801cc05f1$8fc4fa50$af4eeef0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <446262969.481463.1304035594846.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



Randall, 



The outer spring ID is .898", wire diameter .162"; gives an OD of 1.222" 



The inner spring ID is .648", wire diameter .12"; gives and OD of .888" (Tight Fit) 



Meant to include that info in my initial message 



Ed 


From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Fri Apr 29 05:08:51 2011
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 12:08:51 +0100
Subject: [TR] Head gasket Q
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A20BFBBBA@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

Having pulled the engine and with the help of Randall discovering I had a problem with No3 cylinder, I was wondering on the re-build if it is better to locate a NOS copper composite head gasket off e-bay or has technology improved matters where a new manufactured item would be better? I am still running 93mm pistons +20thou
Regards
John

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Apr 29 10:01:27 2011
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 09:01:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Head gasket Q
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A20BFBBBA@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A20BFBBBA@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinKEgHuGHH2u0+JJaq_5xRN0zUPaw@mail.gmail.com>

On 4/29/11, John Gillis <JGILLIS at tcd.ie> wrote:
> ...I was wondering on the re-build if it is better
> to locate a NOS copper composite head gasket off e-bay...

I have always used a new Payen gasket and had no problems.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 29 11:30:57 2011
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 10:30:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Head gasket Q
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A20BFBBBA@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A20BFBBBA@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <021701cc0693$36bac230$a4304690$@rr.com>

> I was wondering on the re-build if it is
> better to locate a NOS copper composite head gasket off e-bay 

I would be leery of a gasket from ebay.  Even assuming it really is what the
seller claims it is, it's still old and oxidized.  And I see things being
sold all the time that are not what they are claimed to be.  (Eg, last night
I saw a TR2-3 starter advertised for TR4-4A.)

As Geo said, my suggestion would be a new Payen gasket.

> I am still running 93mm pistons +20thou

I assume you mean 83mm.  Shouldn't be a problem, even if you get a "86mm"
gasket.  The 1.5m gap between the edge of the gasket and the cylinder bore
will quickly fill with deposits.

-- Randall


From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Apr 29 15:32:11 2011
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 16:32:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
References: <2076973907.1809212.1304021197174.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<106197.1997.qm@web28314.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <55EAC7FA97F64388B4AE7176396F4DC3@trigeni.com>

BRG is in the eye of the beholder.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
To: <spamiam at comcast.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?


the end of every day, are there really that many people who give a toss what 
BRG
either is - or isn't, and care enough to get it right? Probably very few. 
Cheers



From allegrorover at mac.com  Sat Apr 30 11:18:25 2011
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2011 13:18:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7A1675AE-6C2B-4F24-910E-289DA8C8E25A@mac.com>

Weel I don't know what color you'll wind up with but as far as I can see it looks great so far, good job.....



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489



From ebuzzmiller at comcast.net  Sat Apr 30 14:40:06 2011
From: ebuzzmiller at comcast.net (Eric Miller)
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2011 13:40:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DBC73A6.3010208@comcast.net>

I was a couple weeks away from painting my 4A and saw the perfect BRG 
color on an e-type.  The owner told me it was HDJ, so went with it.  
It's little darker than my 4a's original color.  Absolutely love how it 
turned out.

Here's a pic: http://i.imgur.com/fHaii.jpg

-Eric Miller

On 4/27/2011 9:44 AM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> As my TR3B (TSF202L) gets closer to being on the road than it has for almost
> thirty years, it's time to think about paint.  I'd like best recommendations
> from the list for paint codes for the early Jaguar dark British Racing
> Green.
>
> The later green, code HEN, is dark, but a little lighter than my memory of
> the earlier ones.  I'm changing the color from it's original Signal Red,
> which took some thought, but green it's gonna be.
>
> Here's where it stood a couple of months ago, after we "modified" the shell
> to let the seat go back a little bit farther for this six foot six driver.
>   It's mostly in primer now.  Target:  Driving by its 50th birthday on April
> 12, 2012.
> http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1143349206_tshwV-L.jpg
>
> TIA,
>
> Don
> Saint Louis
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ebuzzmiller at comcast.net
>
>


From dmb993 at earthlink.net  Sat Apr 30 17:09:09 2011
From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady)
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2011 19:09:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <4DBC73A6.3010208@comcast.net>
References: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4DBC73A6.3010208@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DBC9695.6060207@earthlink.net>

I painted my TR250 with a Ferrari color: Verde Inglese:

http://www.employees.org/~dmb/

David Brady
'68 TR250
CD8124L


From dmb993 at earthlink.net  Sat Apr 30 17:15:58 2011
From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady)
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2011 19:15:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <4DBC73A6.3010208@comcast.net>
References: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4DBC73A6.3010208@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DBC982E.20809@earthlink.net>

I painted my TR250 with a Ferrari color: Verde Inglese:

http://www.employees.org/~dmb/

David Brady
'68 TR250
CD8124L


From allegrorover at mac.com  Sat Apr 30 17:40:50 2011
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2011 19:40:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <4DBC73A6.3010208@comcast.net>
References: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4DBC73A6.3010208@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6A806DA5-5344-472A-954B-01F9370BFB8B@mac.com>

Looks GREAT!!!!



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489



From allegrorover at mac.com  Sat Apr 30 17:42:36 2011
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2011 19:42:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes?
In-Reply-To: <4DBC9695.6060207@earthlink.net>
References: <BANLkTikrj+-d2pGW_OFiKq7pSSfHtS1rXQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4DBC73A6.3010208@comcast.net> <4DBC9695.6060207@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <3486B2A0-ADFE-4458-AEAD-BAF34767AF56@mac.com>

Well you guys are making me jealous, I love the looks of the 250's........they both look very nice.



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489



From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Apr 30 21:56:25 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 03:56:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Import Carlisle
Message-ID: <1916992575.568076.1304222185791.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



List, 



I have a couple of very nice TR6 bonnets, a decent TR250 front valence, and some TR3 stuff I can cart to Import Carlisle if anyone on this list needs same. Please contact me off list if you're interested. These large parts are no fun to haul without a commitment to buy, so if someone needs some sheet metal, please let me know soon. Again, off list please. Also have a nice, clean, magnafluxed TR4 engine block that I'd like to move to someone else's basement. The guy who wanted it and asked me to have it cleaned and crack checked backed out. 



I'll be in space C55. Stop by, introduce yourself and have a cold beverage. I hope it's warm enough for cold beverages this year! 



Ed Woods 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat Apr 30 08:07:55 2011
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2011 10:07:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] My results with the Christian Marx rear engine seal
Message-ID: <BANLkTikfz8Qy0dsET5o875xjqwYkkes2JQ@mail.gmail.com>

I'm happy to say that I'm a believer in the seal.

1.  Getting the parts was easy - got the parts and alignment tool from Joe
Alexander and paid with Paypal.  I understand the Roadster Factory also
sources them. I called joe a few times with questions and he was happy to
work with me.
2.  Centering the clamshell scroll seal  was straight forward.  I got the
machined clamshell scroll seal from Joe - nicely done - but since it is not
the one that came off the engine some modification to the mounting holes was
required to center the clamshell properly.   I would not attempt install
with out a centering tool.  If I had my original clamshell machined locally
- which is an option - the mods necessary to center the clamshelll would
have been zero or minimal (my original clamshell had a few severely modified
out holes on it).
3. I needed to shorten the bolts that attach the flywheel - the ends
protruded and would have contacted the seal.  I was very careful not to heat
up these bolts while grinding them shorter - my method - hold them with my
gloves - when they were too hot to hold - switch to another bolt continue
until finished.
4.  Scary part - Assembly and getting everything to line up -  I was worried
that the seal would rotate as things were bolted up. I'm not sure this was
wise but I cut my notch a bit wider than shown in Christian's write up
http://www.tr4-racing.de/download/splitseal.pdf.  I marked alignment points
with a silver and black sharpie.  It did move during assembly but on my
second attempt the marks on the lip seal were pretty close to the marks on
the clamshell.  With the slightly wider notch I felt comfortable.

After 600 miles - I can't say the seal is leaking at all -  I have 2 quarter
sized drops under my car after sitting for 2 weeks after a 70 mph 3 hour
run.   one was directly under the vent tube on the side of the engine and
the other was dripping off the oil pan centerd under the rear of the engine
- might be I need to tighten up the oil pan gasket.  Joe paraphased Kas and
said the engine will find someplace to leak oil - wipe it down with thinner
and see where it's coming from.

Whhat a huge improvement!   I was so tired of piles of cat litter and
cardboard.  Tired of adding a quart of oil everytime I drove it.  So tired
of parking down the block so I don't pour an oil trail down my friends
driveways.

I'll send another update  at 1500 miles.

Chris
1963 TR4