From mcmeganutt at aol.com Wed Sep 1 09:07:34 2010 From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com) Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 11:07:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Connecticut Triumph Register 30th Annual Show Message-ID: <8CD17FE8AF5D200-D98-16CA4@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com> The Connecticut Triumph Register invites everyone to its 30th Annual British Motorcar Gathering and Picnic. Sunday, September 12th, 2010 at Wickham Park, Manchester, CT Exit 60 off of I-84, follow the signs. All makes, models and conditions of British motorcars and motorcycles are invited to participate in the fun. For more info, updates and registration form go to www.CTRiumph.com Venue: www.wickhampark.org From guy at genfiniti.com Thu Sep 2 08:40:16 2010 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 09:40:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fixing rubber seals to body Message-ID: <7B6381DF-A235-40C8-A0D2-8F19AA9EC2CB@genfiniti.com> All, Great news. The body work is done, and the little car is painted, ready for me to pick up! After I get it home, the first order of business will be to mount the tub to the chassis, and carefully add the larger panels. Many of these like the boot lid, doors, etc, have rubber "seals" that afix to grooves in the tub. What is the recommended way of getting these attached? Is there some magic adhesive? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 2 09:58:54 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 08:58:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fixing rubber seals to body In-Reply-To: <7B6381DF-A235-40C8-A0D2-8F19AA9EC2CB@genfiniti.com> References: <7B6381DF-A235-40C8-A0D2-8F19AA9EC2CB@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <156e01cb4ab7$bf09c430$3d1d4c90$@rr.com> > Is there some magic adhesive? 3M Weatherstrip adhesive, sometimes known as "gorilla snot" for its stringy, yellow character. Comes in a big toothpaste tube, should be available at any FLAPS. -- Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 10:36:47 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 10:36:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fixing rubber seals to body In-Reply-To: <156e01cb4ab7$bf09c430$3d1d4c90$@rr.com> References: <7B6381DF-A235-40C8-A0D2-8F19AA9EC2CB@genfiniti.com> <156e01cb4ab7$bf09c430$3d1d4c90$@rr.com> Message-ID: I second that suggestion. It comes in black also which I like to use since it blends with the black rubber bits better. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 2, 2010, at 9:58 AM, Randall wrote: >> Is there some magic adhesive? > > 3M Weatherstrip adhesive, sometimes known as "gorilla snot" for its > stringy, > yellow character. Comes in a big toothpaste tube, should be > available at > any FLAPS. > > -- Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 11:03:45 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:03:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? Message-ID: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium which I'm very unhappy about. I know rates go up because of various factors (excuses by the Ins. industry to raise rates) but this is the biggest increase I've ever seen from them and I've had them since 2000. I'm looking to see if a better deal is out there for classic car insurance. Anyone getting better rates or at least not a 14% increase from one year to the next. Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 11:08:43 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:08:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net> Message-ID: <249643E9-4BE9-47EC-9493-FF2EFDCA9CA0@comcast.net> > Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium > which I'm very unhappy about. I know rates go up because of various > factors (excuses by the Ins. industry to raise rates) but this is > the biggest increase I've ever seen from them and I've had them > since 2000. I'm looking to see if a better deal is out there for > classic car insurance. Anyone getting better rates or at least not > a 14% increase from one year to the next. > > Thanks > Bud Rolofson > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) > 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) > 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) > Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > levilevi at comcast.net From wbeech at flash.net Thu Sep 2 12:22:49 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 12:22:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? In-Reply-To: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net> References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net> Message-ID: Try The Hartford through AARP. I got great rates, I just told them how much I wanted to insure the car for, and the let you cancel the coverage for the winter and bring it back on in the spring. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 11:04 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium which I'm very unhappy about. I know rates go up because of various factors (excuses by the Ins. industry to raise rates) but this is the biggest increase I've ever seen from them and I've had them since 2000. I'm looking to see if a better deal is out there for classic car insurance. Anyone getting better rates or at least not a 14% increase from one year to the next. Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Thu Sep 2 13:29:54 2010 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 15:29:54 EDT Subject: [TR] Adhesive for Rubber seals Message-ID: <18b64d.125daaa5.39b15532@aol.com> Yep, Gorilla Snot, especially in black, is the adhesive of choice. It should not be necessary to glue the entire strip, as they remain in their little tracks with adhesive used sparingly and at the ends. When installing the seals, DO NOT pull the ends into position so they are likely to compress back and leave a gap for air and water to enter. Sadly, I did that years ago and have had some water enter that might not have, leading to soaked carpets on occasion. I'm gonna replace the door seals on my TR4A this fall and will leave a little extra (maybe 1/2") length, to be trimmed off only when I'm sure the rubber has relaxed. It's pretty difficult to put additional rubber in place later. Good luck with the project, Guy. You are at the fun stage! Take your time. George Haynes 1965 TR4A CTC55423LO (damn, our cars must be very similar! Mine's TRG w/ Surrey Top. New Miata seats just installed) From gdewine at aol.com Thu Sep 2 13:49:24 2010 From: gdewine at aol.com (gdewine at aol.com) Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 15:49:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for side curtain Message-ID: <8CD18EF145060B6-17A4-D9F@webmail-d019.sysops.aol.com> I am looking for a passenger side side curtain for a TR3A...(or a set in good condition)..condition of Plexiglas is not important...However the vinyl fabric needs to be free of rips and tears. It can be stained and discolored. A picture would be helpful. Let me know what you you have and your price. If you have a set in good condition I would tat may be an option.... Gary DeWine Euclid, Ohio 1961 TR3A From wbeech at flash.net Thu Sep 2 13:54:04 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 13:54:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fixing rubber seals to body In-Reply-To: <7B6381DF-A235-40C8-A0D2-8F19AA9EC2CB@genfiniti.com> References: <7B6381DF-A235-40C8-A0D2-8F19AA9EC2CB@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <693DD143-E8A8-4F6E-B3E7-CF84EFC84BC6@flash.net> For the boot and spare lids I used the same contact cement, very carefully, that I used for the carpet. Works great. Mobile Bill On Sep 2, 2010, at 8:40 AM, "Guy D. Huggins" wrote: > All, > > Great news. The body work is done, and the little car is painted, ready for > me to pick up! > After I get it home, the first order of business will be to mount the tub to > the chassis, and carefully add the larger panels. > Many of these like the boot lid, doors, etc, have rubber "seals" that afix to > grooves in the tub. > What is the recommended way of getting these attached? Is there some magic > adhesive? > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO > > Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From dctr6 at optonline.net Thu Sep 2 15:14:53 2010 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 17:14:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? Message-ID: <001501cb4ae3$e30665b0$a9133110$@net> Bud Rolofson wrote: > Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium > which I'm very unhappy about. I took an AARP-sponsored defensive driving course earlier this year and Hagerty reduced my comprehensive and collision by 10% this year and for the next two years. David Friedlander wrote: > I am not sure I understand the benefit of using insurers like Hagerty, Leland, Grundy and the like.... I understand saving money. My 'regular' insurance company wanted over $700/year to insure my TR6 and would not agree to a $17K stated value policy. I get that through Hagerty for $203/yr and it's not a bare bones, minimum policy. Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Sep 2 15:58:54 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 17:58:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? In-Reply-To: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net> References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net> Message-ID: On Thu, 2 Sep 2010, Bud Rolofson wrote: > Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium which I'm > very unhappy about. I know rates go up because of various factors (excuses > by the Ins. industry to raise rates) but this is the biggest increase I've > ever seen from them and I've had them since 2000. It couldn't be due to all the advertising that they're doing on TV. Nope - no way. :-) Tongue firmly in cheek. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From fishplate at charter.net Thu Sep 2 16:01:33 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 18:01:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? In-Reply-To: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net> References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net> Message-ID: > Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium which > I'm very unhappy about. I know rates go up because of various factors Bud, have you called Hagerty to ask them why it went up? I've got my TR-6 and Spitfire both with Hagerty (originally issued via my Farm Bureau agent) and the price has remained the same for three years running. If it went up, there ought to be a simple explanation. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Sep 2 16:13:47 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 17:13:47 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? Message-ID: <12045732.452986.1283465627494.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net> State Farm insures my 1972 Triumph TR6 for $104.98 per year with a 16K stated value policy, no appraisal required. Could not be happier. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Sep 2, 2010, Dennis Culligan wrote: Bud Rolofson wrote: > Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium > which I'm very unhappy about. I took an AARP-sponsored defensive driving course earlier this year and Hagerty reduced my comprehensive and collision by 10% this year and for the next two years. David Friedlander wrote: > I am not sure I understand the benefit of using insurers like Hagerty, Leland, Grundy and the like.... I understand saving money. My 'regular' insurance company wanted over $700/year to insure my TR6 and would not agree to a $17K stated value policy. I get that through Hagerty for $203/yr and it's not a bare bones, minimum policy. Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 16:40:32 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 16:40:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? In-Reply-To: References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net> Message-ID: List, thanks for all your input. No claims or tickets. Went from $194 to $222 in one year with the same $22k replacement value. That's over a 14% increase with no changes. Talked to them and they responded with all the fine things they do and benefits of Hagerty and on and on, but I said I thought I was already getting all those fine things the year before with the $194 premium and was happy. I said so you're telling me I now have to pay 14% more for the same thing with no additional benefits? They then claimed they restructured their rates and Colorado came out a bit (14% is a lot in my book) higher. I know how insurance works and they may be justified because of claims and losses (they thought it was mostly MG drivers that were to blame...just kidding) but that's not going to keep me from railing at them about it, after all I'm retired and don't have anything better to do ;) I will look into some of the suggested alternatives, thanks. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 2, 2010, at 4:01 PM, Jeff wrote: >> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years >> premium which I'm very unhappy about. I know rates go up because >> of various factors > > Bud, have you called Hagerty to ask them why it went up? I've got my > TR-6 and Spitfire both with Hagerty (originally issued via my Farm > Bureau agent) and the price has remained the same for three years > running. > > If it went up, there ought to be a simple explanation. > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 16:46:12 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 17:46:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?b?WzZwYWNrXSBIYWdlcnR5IENhciBJbnMuIHVwIDE0JT8/?= Message-ID: <20100902224512.B71A6187651@autox.team.net> I know hagarty has frozen pricing for folks,who have a policy. If you have an expired one.....Hmmmm! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jeff" Date: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 17:01 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? To: "Bud Rolofson" , , <6pack at autox.team.net> > Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium which > I'm very unhappy about. I know rates go up because of various factors Bud, have you called Hagerty to ask them why it went up? I've got my TR-6 and Spitfire both with Hagerty (originally issued via my Farm Bureau agent) and the price has remained the same for three years running. If it went up, there ought to be a simple explanation. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Sep 2 16:48:33 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 18:48:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] pully failure Message-ID: <201009021848.34461.yellowtr@adelphia.net> I was driving to a car hop tonight in the 4 when I thought I heard a metal ding sort of noise. At first I thought the car in front of me threw a stone but a few seconds later I noticed my temperature gauge pinged. So I pulled over and opened up the hood expecting to find a large hole in the radiator but what I found was the belt somehow came off the lower pulley. I had the wife hit the starter while I coaxed the belt back on and we limped home. Must have lost alot of fluid as the temp stayed around 190 - 200 the whole way home. So when I got home I opened up the bonnet to let the engine cool thinking I just had a loose belt when I noticed a small piece of metal on the frame. It was a 2" piece of the inner part of the pulley where the timing mark is located or was. The bottom part of the piece is not a fresh break so it looks like a crack developed over time and finally went today. Has anyone else experienced metal fatigue in the lower engine pully? I have a spare but looks like the radiator and fan assembly is coming off in the near future. At least it is an easier job than the TR3! Bob From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 16:48:40 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 16:48:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? Message-ID: <3D40EAAC-DDEB-4AE3-A032-AF736AC8D09D@comcast.net> Not expired either. I have another week left. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 2, 2010, at 4:46 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > I know hagarty has frozen pricing for folks,who have a policy. If > you have an expired one.....Hmmmm! > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Jeff" > Date: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 17:01 > Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? > To: "Bud Rolofson" , > , <6pack at autox.team.net> > > > Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years > premium which > I'm very unhappy about. I know rates go up because > of various factors > > Bud, have you called Hagerty to ask them why it went up? I've got my > TR-6 and Spitfire both with Hagerty (originally issued via my Farm > Bureau agent) and the price has remained the same for three years > running. > > If it went up, there ought to be a simple explanation. > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 2 18:06:40 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 17:06:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? In-Reply-To: References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net> Message-ID: <164a01cb4afb$e2efe390$a8cfaab0$@rr.com> > I said so you're telling me I now have to > pay 14% more for the same thing with no additional benefits? Another way to look at this; maybe they've been saving up all the increases they should have had in previous years. I know my insurance goes up by 3-5 percent, practically every year. Oh, and it costs me more for less coverage, because I drive my TR every day. -- Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 21:26:10 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 21:26:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? In-Reply-To: <164a01cb4afb$e2efe390$a8cfaab0$@rr.com> References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net> <164a01cb4afb$e2efe390$a8cfaab0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Oh, they've been getting that every year. 3-5 I could accept and have over the years but 14%?? That's a bit excessive...guess they're trying to get their losses back all this year. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 2, 2010, at 6:06 PM, Randall wrote: > maybe they've been saving up all the increases > they should have had in previous years. I know my insurance goes up > by 3-5 > percent, practically every year From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 04:54:23 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 05:54:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?b?WzZwYWNrXSBIYWdlcnR5IENhciBJbnMuIHVwIDE0JT8/?= Message-ID: <20100903105324.D6C03187671@autox.team.net> I could accept their trying to get back losses. What's the point of being in business if you don't profit? But I suspect something else is going on, like maybe new regulations. Hmmm Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Bud Rolofson" Date: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 22:26 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? To: "Randall" Cc: Oh, they've been getting that every year. 3-5 I could accept and have over the years but 14%?? That's a bit excessive...guess they're trying to get their losses back all this year. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 2, 2010, at 6:06 PM, Randall wrote: > maybe they've been saving up all the increases > they should have had in previous years. I know my insurance goes up > by 3-5 > percent, practically every year _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Sep 3 05:37:34 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 07:37:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] pully failure In-Reply-To: <201009021848.34461.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201009021848.34461.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Yep. Had the same thing happen to me. I went through several attempts to find good pulleys. Most of the ones I found when sanded and cleaned up had cracks in them. Based on this - I have to believe it's a fairly common occurance. Others had wollwed out holes. In my opinion, I think over tight belts over time are the culprit for this. Still think it's a bit strange to have a pressed sheet metal pulley on the crank... Might be time to consider a narrow belt conversion. I could not find a source for new inner pulley when mine failed 2 years ago. Chris > So when I got home I opened up the bonnet to let the engine cool thinking I > just had a loose belt when I noticed a small piece of metal on the frame. > It > was a 2" piece of the inner part of the pulley where the timing mark is > located or was. > > The bottom part of the piece is not a fresh break so it looks like a crack > developed over time and finally went today. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 3 08:17:56 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 07:17:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] pully failure In-Reply-To: References: <201009021848.34461.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <167301cb4b72$ceb0f690$0301a8c0@randall> > I could > not find a > source for new inner pulley when mine failed 2 years ago. FWIW, TRF has both halves still listed as available. I replaced both halves of mine a few years ago, but I think the break was initiated by damage from a rock or something. Randall From dctr6 at optonline.net Fri Sep 3 08:40:27 2010 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 10:40:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%?? Message-ID: <000001cb4b75$f3b4a470$db1ded50$@net> Bud wrote: >they restructured their rates and Colorado came out a bit (14% is a lot in my book) higher. You could move. ; - ) Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Sep 3 16:57:42 2010 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 15:57:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] stripped thread in alumium cylinder head Message-ID: While trying to re-torque my inlet manifold bolts on my Stag, I noticed one of the long bolts thread is stripped. The other short ones in the area are fine. I do have a slight leak. My question is. Is there a quick short term fix? I'm looking for something which will prevent me removing the manifold and inserting a heli-coli., but enable the bolt to tighten. On searching the web, I came accross a product by Permatex, but the reviews were no good. Any thoughts? I'll prefer to wait until the winter months to heli-coli all the threads. Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 3 18:25:29 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 17:25:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] stripped thread in alumium cylinder head In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <429528.22795.qm@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> how about tapping out the hole to the next bigger size? or the next bigger metric size? frank ________________________________ From: sujit roy To: Triumphs Sent: Fri, September 3, 2010 3:57:42 PM Subject: [TR] stripped thread in alumium cylinder head While trying to re-torque my inlet manifold bolts on my Stag, I noticed one of the long bolts thread is stripped. The other short ones in the area are fine. I do have a slight leak. My question is. Is there a quick short term fix? I'm looking for something which will prevent me removing the manifold and inserting a heli-coli., but enable the bolt to tighten. On searching the web, I came accross a product by Permatex, but the reviews were no good. Any thoughts? I'll prefer to wait until the winter months to heli-coli all the threads. Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tcheat2002 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 3 19:14:32 2010 From: tcheat2002 at yahoo.com (Tim Cheatham) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 20:14:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] stripped thread in alumium cylinder head In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <75BBA1DE-392E-4423-BC1C-FCC378280493@yahoo.com> Try Time Cert fasteners. Porsche guys use them all the time. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 3, 2010, at 5:57 PM, sujit roy wrote: > While trying to re-torque my inlet manifold bolts on my Stag, I noticed one > of the long bolts thread is stripped. The other short ones in the area are > fine. I do have a > slight leak. > My question is. Is there a quick short term fix? I'm looking for something > which will prevent me removing the manifold and inserting a heli-coli., but > enable the > bolt to tighten. > On searching the web, I came accross a product by Permatex, but the reviews > were no good. > Any thoughts? > > I'll prefer to wait until the winter months to heli-coli all the threads. > > Sujit > > -- > Sujit Roy, Realtor > Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA > (408) 839-8359 > roysrealty.com > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tcheat2002 at yahoo.com From allegrorover at mac.com Fri Sep 3 19:37:22 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 20:37:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] stuck clutch Message-ID: <96F75C86-AD8E-4867-B393-53426E18533A@mac.com> List, After being gone for 4 months I came back to a stuck clutch on the 3A. I have the Toyota conversion, so I have the hydraulic throwout bearing. I suspect that the heavy humidity has caused the clutch to attach itself to the flywheel. I put the car in gear and rocked it, which I will try again, but I'm afraid that it'll be a tranny removal to get it right. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Sep 3 20:34:13 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 19:34:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] stuck clutch In-Reply-To: <96F75C86-AD8E-4867-B393-53426E18533A@mac.com> References: <96F75C86-AD8E-4867-B393-53426E18533A@mac.com> Message-ID: On 9/3/10, Anthony Cascio wrote: > ... gone for 4 months I came back to a stuck clutch on the 3A. Usually pretty easy to free it up but does take some (harmless) trauma. On the advice of a tech at Moss I did mine by jacking up the rear, revving the engine with the car in first, then having my wife release the jack. Popped it loose at once. Some have had success with slightly less dramatic methods. Good luck. From Catpusher at aol.com Fri Sep 3 21:31:27 2010 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 23:31:27 EDT Subject: [TR] Subject: pully failure Message-ID: <1e315d.6cb038a1.39b3178f@aol.com> When Triumph went to the alloy fan extension, they reduced the pulley bolts from 6 to 3; I have seen many more failures with this "TR4A" set up, and started modifying the later units for the 6 bolts, which cured the problem, at least in the short run. For earlier cars, the problem was much less common. Hardy From: Bob Subject: [TR] pully failure . So when I got home I opened up the bonnet to let the engine cool thinking I just had a loose belt when I noticed a small piece of metal on the frame. It was a 2" piece of the inner part of the pulley where the timing mark is located or was. The bottom part of the piece is not a fresh break so it looks like a crack developed over time and finally went today. Has anyone else experienced metal fatigue in the lower engine pully? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 3 22:10:21 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 21:10:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] stuck clutch In-Reply-To: <96F75C86-AD8E-4867-B393-53426E18533A@mac.com> References: <96F75C86-AD8E-4867-B393-53426E18533A@mac.com> Message-ID: <182601cb4be7$182cd130$0301a8c0@randall> > Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Before resorting to the more dramatic methods, you might try just driving the car for a bit with the clutch depressed. First start it in neutral to get the engine warmed up a bit, then turn it off, select first (or reverse if you need to get out of the driveway), start it in gear and away you go. The vibration from the engine will sometimes knock them loose. Mine let go before I got to the end of the driveway. Randall From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sat Sep 4 00:18:45 2010 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 08:18:45 +0200 Subject: [TR] stuck clutch References: <96F75C86-AD8E-4867-B393-53426E18533A@mac.com> Message-ID: <1513D2B88DA449AFBAE5DC84FCE48443@Study> Less dramatic than Moss but slightly miore forceful than Randall's, this worked for me every time I returned to my TR after a long period away. Put the car in second gear and get someone to tow it ignitio off whilst you sit in it with the clutch depressed. David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 12011 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com Sat Sep 4 01:06:05 2010 From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 00:06:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] stuck clutch In-Reply-To: <1513D2B88DA449AFBAE5DC84FCE48443@Study> Message-ID: <204291.5119.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> This has always worked for me in any car with the same problem. --- On Sat, 4/9/10, David Brister wrote: > From: David Brister > Subject: Re: [TR] stuck clutch > To: "Anthony Cascio" , triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Saturday, 4 September, 2010, 7:18 > Less dramatic than Moss but slightly > miore forceful than Randall's, this > worked for me every time I returned to my TR after a long > period away. > > Put the car in second gear and get someone to tow it > ignitio off whilst you > sit in it with the clutch depressed. > > David Brister > 1967 TR4A > > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. > SPAMfighter has removed 12011 of my spam emails to date. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > The Professional version does not have this message > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com From wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 4 08:08:02 2010 From: wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net (Bill Babbitt) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 10:08:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 For Sale Message-ID: <9EFA819F-F20B-4E01-8D1F-06BF5BD81636@sbcglobal.net> In today's New London Day: "Triumph 1962 - TR-3A Roadster 4 - cylinder, 4 - speed manual. Black Good condition. $15,000. 802-988-4714. Vermont" That's all I know. NFI Bill Babbitt Gales Ferry, CT From allegrorover at mac.com Sat Sep 4 14:18:59 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 15:18:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] unstuck clutch Message-ID: <3BC83F83-5A4D-4E77-80FE-A6561B481572@mac.com> List, Thank you all that responded.....the car in reverse, then starting it broke it loose. Works great now......I was kinda worried about it, didn't really like the thought of pulling the tray. Again thanks Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Sep 4 18:54:22 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 20:54:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Request - Carb Throttle Linkage; choke cable; etc Message-ID: <000101cb4c94$e19350f0$a4b9f2d0$@net> Does anyone have images of the 'underside' of the carbs so that I can see how it all fits together. I believe the linkage itself is fairly straightforward but I can't figure out the choke connection. Much appreciated. Carl From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Sep 4 19:44:30 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 21:44:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Request - Carb Throttle Linkage; choke cable; etc In-Reply-To: References: <000101cb4c94$e19350f0$a4b9f2d0$@net> Message-ID: <000201cb4c9b$e3b8c4d0$ab2a4e70$@net> Duh Late TR3a SU HS6's -----Original Message----- From: Ken Gano, home PC [mailto:triumphs at consolidated.net] Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 9:36 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net Subject: Re: [TR] Request - Carb Throttle Linkage; choke cable; etc Model and carb type? kg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 7:54 PM Subject: [TR] Request - Carb Throttle Linkage; choke cable; etc > Does anyone have images of the 'underside' of the carbs so that I can see > how it all fits together. I believe the linkage itself is fairly > straightforward but I can't figure out the choke connection. > > Much appreciated. > > Carl > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3114 - Release Date: 09/04/10 13:34:00 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 4 22:33:04 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 21:33:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Request - Carb Throttle Linkage; choke cable; etc In-Reply-To: <000101cb4c94$e19350f0$a4b9f2d0$@net> References: <000101cb4c94$e19350f0$a4b9f2d0$@net> Message-ID: <198701cb4cb3$6e77e800$0301a8c0@randall> > Does anyone have images of the 'underside' of the carbs so > that I can see > how it all fits together. I believe the linkage itself is fairly > straightforward but I can't figure out the choke connection. This might help http://tinyurl.com/28q8lqr Randall From zoboherald at aol.com Sat Sep 4 22:36:26 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 00:36:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Request - Carb Throttle Linkage; choke cable; etc In-Reply-To: <000201cb4c9b$e3b8c4d0$ab2a4e70$@net> References: <000101cb4c94$e19350f0$a4b9f2d0$@net> <000201cb4c9b$e3b8c4d0$ab2a4e70$@net> Message-ID: <8CD1ACB090DE57C-4524-1366F@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR Duh Late TR3a SU HS6's ==AM== Do you perhaps mean H6s, as were original to a late TR3A, or HS6s, which were original to later TR4As? If it's H6s as per a TR3A, and you don't get any other "takers," I might be able to get a couple shots off to you in the next couple of days. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Sep 4 23:25:24 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 01:25:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Request - Carb Throttle Linkage; choke cable; etc In-Reply-To: <8CD1ACB090DE57C-4524-1366F@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> References: <000101cb4c94$e19350f0$a4b9f2d0$@net> <000201cb4c9b$e3b8c4d0$ab2a4e70$@net> <8CD1ACB090DE57C-4524-1366F@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <83D11219B2544988BFB295E6554D970E@CarlPC> It should have been H6's... sorry. C ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Mace" To: ; Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 12:36 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Request - Carb Throttle Linkage; choke cable; etc > -----Original Message----- > From: Carl TR > > Duh > Late TR3a SU HS6's > > ==AM== > Do you perhaps mean H6s, as were original to a late TR3A, or HS6s, > which were original to later TR4As? > > If it's H6s as per a TR3A, and you don't get any other "takers," I > might be able to get a couple shots off to you in the next couple of > days. > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, > Triumph Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph > Register: http://www.vtr.org > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph > Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 06:52:40 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 12:52:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Inner Fender Cover Message-ID: <1157392029.195296.1283691160886.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> In preparing to install the inner fender cover to my '59 TR3A, the instructions I read from Macy's Garage says to be sure you have the correct side since the covers are specific to the passenger or driver's side arch.B In the kit I bought years ago from TRF, there is an "A" written on the underside of the one and a "B" on the other. Anyone know which is which (passenger side vs driver's side)?B When I lay them out, I could either way with the fit. I was planning to get this done this weekend, but if no one is sure, I'll give TRF a call next week. Thanks. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A From jdemuth at ties2.net Sun Sep 5 15:24:56 2010 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 16:24:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR3 Front Bumper Message-ID: Anybody on the list have a TR3A front bumper and mounts they are willing to part with? Doesn't need to be perfect, just not mangled. From buik57389 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 5 16:14:16 2010 From: buik57389 at yahoo.com (karl sisson) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 15:14:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 bumper Message-ID: <344957.80206.qm@web65402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Attn: Joe Demouth. I believe I may have a couple of TR3 bumpers in the rafters of my garage. I'll have a look. Cheers Karl. buik57389 at yahoo.com From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 20:37:43 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 02:37:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Inner Fender Cover In-Reply-To: <1157392029.195296.1283691160886.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1524546650.214980.1283740663515.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I wanted to clarify my use of the term inner fender. It is actually theB wheel arch.B Sorry for the confussion. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net To: "Triumph Mail List" Sent: Sunday, September 5, 2010 8:52:40 AM Subject: [TR] TR3A Inner Fender Cover In preparing to install the inner fender cover to my '59 TR3A, the instructions I read from Macy's Garage says to be sure you have the correct side since the covers are specific to the passenger or driver's side arch.B In the kit I bought years ago from TRF, there is an "A" written on the underside of the one and a "B" on the other. Anyone know which is which (passenger side vs driver's side)?B B When I lay them out, I could either way with the fit. I was planning to get this done this weekend, but if no one is sure, I'll give TRF a call next week. Thanks. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A From guy at genfiniti.com Sun Sep 5 21:02:46 2010 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 22:02:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque for Diff Mounting - TR4A Message-ID: <37D35A99-87B2-44E2-B4B5-0AB697328FC7@genfiniti.com> All, Can anyone tell me the torques for the diff mounting into the four chassis pins on the TR4A? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Sep 6 06:08:54 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 08:08:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 speedo bulb holder needed Message-ID: <1540353F50684347A3CD983E4FC02A6D@valued9cfc0b6f> I'm looking for an original TR3 bulb holder for a speedo or tach, the push in one that is part of the string of 4 for the speedo and tach. (not the high beam snap in one) If anyone has one or two they can part with, or know of a source, please let me know... Apreciate it, thanks Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Sep 6 06:30:00 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 08:30:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found Message-ID: <32CB495BDA384EA98D5AA7B8AE95FB94@valued9cfc0b6f> Sorry about the last post, didn't look hard enough...as an FYI Moss Europe has the Lucas 502342 bulb holders.... Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 6 08:19:07 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 07:19:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Torque for Diff Mounting - TR4A In-Reply-To: <37D35A99-87B2-44E2-B4B5-0AB697328FC7@genfiniti.com> References: <37D35A99-87B2-44E2-B4B5-0AB697328FC7@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <1ba201cb4dce$78319c30$0301a8c0@randall> > Can anyone tell me the torques for the diff mounting into the > four chassis pins on the TR4A? Seems like it should be the same as the TR250 & 6, which my book gives as 20-25 ft-lb. Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Sep 6 09:41:44 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 11:41:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found In-Reply-To: <32CB495BDA384EA98D5AA7B8AE95FB94@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <32CB495BDA384EA98D5AA7B8AE95FB94@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: TRF has them as well. p/n 70066 ----- Original Message ----- From: "davewillner" To: Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 8:30 AM Subject: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found > Sorry about the last post, didn't look hard enough...as an FYI Moss Europe > has > the Lucas 502342 bulb holders.... > > Dave Willner, PA > 59 TR3A > 70 MGB > 70 BSA 441 Victor Special > 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Sep 6 09:42:47 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 11:42:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found Message-ID: My error - that is the panel light - the pair that go behind the center dash. sorry C ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: "davewillner" ; Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 11:41 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found > TRF has them as well. p/n 70066 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "davewillner" > To: > Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 8:30 AM > Subject: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found > > >> Sorry about the last post, didn't look hard enough...as an FYI Moss >> Europe has >> the Lucas 502342 bulb holders.... >> >> Dave Willner, PA >> 59 TR3A >> 70 MGB >> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special >> 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Sep 6 10:01:32 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 12:01:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Request - Carb Throttle Linkage; choke cable; etc In-Reply-To: <83D11219B2544988BFB295E6554D970E@CarlPC> References: <000101cb4c94$e19350f0$a4b9f2d0$@net> <000201cb4c9b$e3b8c4d0$ab2a4e70$@net> <8CD1ACB090DE57C-4524-1366F@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> <83D11219B2544988BFB295E6554D970E@CarlPC> Message-ID: Thanks to Tom Fansher for sending a slew of pictures (9) that resolved my dilemma... or at least how it should be. I was missing the 'arm' that stabilized the choke outer cable. Found one on a donor - and all is good with the world. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 1:25 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Request - Carb Throttle Linkage; choke cable; etc > It should have been H6's... sorry. > C > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Andrew Mace" > To: ; > Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 12:36 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] Request - Carb Throttle Linkage; choke cable; etc > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Carl TR >> >> Duh >> Late TR3a SU HS6's >> >> ==AM== >> Do you perhaps mean H6s, as were original to a late TR3A, or HS6s, which >> were original to later TR4As? >> >> If it's H6s as per a TR3A, and you don't get any other "takers," I might >> be able to get a couple shots off to you in the next couple of days. >> >> --Andy Mace >> >> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? >> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph >> Herald engine with wings. >> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) >> >> Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph >> Register: http://www.vtr.org >> >> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph >> Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Sep 6 11:00:43 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 13:00:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: However TRF does have p/n 502342 $15.90. I think that is for all four (should be at that price). They are having a sale (through the12th) 10% on $50; higher percentages on more. Also, half price shipping through today. NFI - just FYI C ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: "davewillner" ; Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 11:42 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found > My error - that is the panel light - the pair that go behind the center > dash. > sorry > C > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Carl TR" > To: "davewillner" ; > Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 11:41 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found > > >> TRF has them as well. p/n 70066 >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "davewillner" >> To: >> Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 8:30 AM >> Subject: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found >> >> >>> Sorry about the last post, didn't look hard enough...as an FYI Moss >>> Europe has >>> the Lucas 502342 bulb holders.... >>> >>> Dave Willner, PA >>> 59 TR3A >>> 70 MGB >>> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special >>> 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 6 11:55:40 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 10:55:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1c2801cb4dec$b86e0630$0301a8c0@randall> Oddly enough, my SPC shows that 502342 is the bulb holder for the turn signal indicator. And while it might fit and work, the original turn indicator bulb holder is definitely different than the ones for the tach & speedo. However, the tach and speedo bulb holders ARE the same as the panel/instrument bulb holders, 70066. I also believe that 502342 is for only one bulb holder. Randall [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of UNTITLED.JPG] From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Sep 6 12:37:49 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 14:37:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found In-Reply-To: <1c2801cb4dec$b86e0630$0301a8c0@randall> References: <1c2801cb4dec$b86e0630$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <003301cb4df2$9ca1b9a0$d5e52ce0$@net> The mystery deepens SPC pg 77 = under Main Harness Assy... Holder, bulb, panel lights - 70066 x 2 Line below that lists bulb for panel light & Headlamp warning beam. And as Randall states SPC pg 75 AD9 Holder, bulb on harness 70066 x 4 On SPC pg 76 - AD30 & 33 - Ignition Warning Light & Flasher Warning Light = 502343 & 502342 x 1 ea. My conclusion is that the pg 77 listings are partially a duplicate of the listing on pg 75. As to why 502342 is so expensive - maybe it includes the green/red/amber sleeve which ever that one happens to be. So Dave - which are you wanting? :) I need the 4 little ones.... ok with the other two. Thanks Randall C -----Original Message----- From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 1:56 PM To: 'Carl TR'; 'davewillner'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Lucas bulb holders found Oddly enough, my SPC shows that 502342 is the bulb holder for the turn signal indicator. And while it might fit and work, the original turn indicator bulb holder is definitely different than the ones for the tach & speedo. However, the tach and speedo bulb holders ARE the same as the panel/instrument bulb holders, 70066. I also believe that 502342 is for only one bulb holder. Randall From miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 6 14:42:30 2010 From: miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net (Miscuse1) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 16:42:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] problems with Heritage Motor Centre Tech Publication TR2-3A CD Message-ID: <001201cb4e04$075b22c0$16116840$@net> I get a message "HCPS Loader has stopped working" when I insert the CD. Anybody have this problem and know the solution to access the files? My operating system is Windows Vista. I have Adobe Reader 9.0. I have tried the Vista patch made by Hexalock. (Makers of the copyright software I presume.) Directly opening the .pdf files does not work either.presumably because of the copyright nature of the cd. Thanks, From spitfire at freebacon.net Mon Sep 6 15:29:50 2010 From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 15:29:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] problems with Heritage Motor Centre Tech Publication TR2-3A CD In-Reply-To: <001201cb4e04$075b22c0$16116840$@net> References: <001201cb4e04$075b22c0$16116840$@net> Message-ID: >From what I recall, they only worked with Windows XP. They've withdrawn sales of their CDs due to this problem ( http://shop.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/shop/) The PDF files are password protected. Even trying to open the CD in a WindowsXP compatibility session doesn't help. Mike Welch Colorado Springs, CO '69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2 '69 Honda SL350 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Miscuse1" Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 2:42 PM To: Subject: [TR] problems with Heritage Motor Centre Tech Publication TR2-3A CD > I get a message "HCPS Loader has stopped working" when I insert the CD. > Anybody have this problem and know the solution to access the files? > > My operating system is Windows Vista. I have Adobe Reader 9.0. I have > tried > the Vista patch made by Hexalock. (Makers of the copyright software I > presume.) > > Directly opening the .pdf files does not work either.presumably because of > the copyright nature of the cd. > > Thanks, > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitfire at freebacon.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Sep 6 16:42:27 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 15:42:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheel stud length?? Message-ID: <4C856E53.9050205@gmail.com> What is the length of the wheel studs for TR3A wire wheels? Thanks Teriann From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 7 09:30:15 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 08:30:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] assembly of windshield TR3 post 60000 Message-ID: <796851.26701.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> on TS41366 the stanchion guides are fastened to the scuttle so i can slide on my windshield as an assembly with the stanchions attached. what is the procedure for post 60000 vehicles where the stanchion guides are loose until clamped by the screws? looks like i would scratch paint if i tried to fit as an assembly. if i fit as parts any one have ideas on how to fit the corner bottom weather seal finisher. lots of tries, beer and cuss words? thanks frank From emw327 at gmail.com Wed Sep 8 02:02:56 2010 From: emw327 at gmail.com (=?UTF-8?B?4oWcIi1lbXczMjc=?=) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 10:02:56 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR250 - TR hardtop Message-ID: Hello I have a TR250 and I can have a hard-top from a TR6. Does anybdy know if it will fit or not??? Sincereley, Guido From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Sep 8 10:39:02 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 12:39:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dismantling a TR250 In-Reply-To: References: <663aa.783aae7f.39b7b7d5@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1D8B7A333685-123C-1038@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com> It's an ARIZONA DERELICT that was a race car from new. Eventually it became so modified that it is not salvageable. Most of what is removed will go to ebay, but here is a heads up, for the moment. REAR TAIL LAMPS REAR BOOT HINGES DOOR HANDLES in and out REAR AXLES WITH DISC BRAKES DOORS WITH HINGES AND LATCHES GRILLE ONE TR6 WHEEL There is more, but this is stuff that is easy to get to....when I can get to it. Joe A From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Sep 8 11:35:35 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 13:35:35 EDT Subject: [TR] TR250 - TR hardtop Message-ID: <262cb7.6094ad2a.39b92367@cs.com> In a message dated 9/8/2010 12:00:23 PM Central Daylight Time, emw327 at gmail.com writes: > I have a TR250 and I can have a hard-top from a TR6. > Does anybdy know if it will fit or not??? > It will but not perfectly. The rear scuttle on the TR6 is flat whereas the TR4/250 has some curvature to it. It's a judgment call as to whether it is good enough. Dave From tr4zest at gmail.com Tue Sep 7 17:17:02 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 19:17:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel Line fittings at Fuel Pump Message-ID: Listerati, I searched the archives and thought I'd found my answer, however the 5/16" NPT and 1/4" NPT fittings I just bought do not fit the inlet/outlet on my TR4's mechanical pump. Close, but no cigar. Could anyone please tell me what threaded fittings I need for attaching to the TRs mechanical pump? Also, I want to build into my fuel delivery system an auxiliary, low-pressure facet pump. Would such an 'in-line' pump be able to pump through the mechanical pump, or do I need to bypass it, should the mechanical pump fail (again)? Yes, that was my Labour Day: the ignominy of a tow. Interestingly, I'd have expected a stuttering stop with a fuel delivery failure. I was in third, gunning it up a hill and it stopped pretty quickly (2 seconds from full power to stopped engine). Almost like shutting down with the key. I guess at 3-4,000 rpm, it's consuming fuel at a fair clip. I'd have normally assumed an electrical failure, but this felt different. I pulled the line to the front carb and span the engine. N'er a drip came forth. Nada. I have a half tank of fuel. I am rebuilding a spare fuel pump I have from ebay. It seems OK (i.e it sucks air when I work the lever) but I'm rebuilding it with a TRF kit. I'm swapping pumps because this one is an original with the primer lever; my car came with a replacement pump with no lever. I note that new replacements can now be found with the primer lever. Cheers, Brian Jones Valley Forge, PA TR4 14455 L (O) From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz Tue Sep 7 15:36:26 2010 From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (Sandra and Trevor Hardy) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 09:36:26 +1200 Subject: [TR] Voltage stabilizers Message-ID: Hi Listers....Have seen an advert for an electronic Voltage Stabiliser for the Fuelguage/Temp circuits for the TR4s. Have not been able to find it again. Could somebody please forward details of said invention to me. Thanx......Trev. Hardy....Feilding; New Zealand. 25 Chrysler Brougham; 65 TR4A; 70 MGBGT. From twr at skybeam.com Wed Sep 8 13:24:08 2010 From: twr at skybeam.com (Todd W. Richmond) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 13:24:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] cam bearing set screws Message-ID: <1283973848.3385.6.camel@localhost.localdomain> Hi All, I have a question about the cam bearing and inserting the set screws. I had a machine shop insert the cam bearings for me, and I believe they did the job correctly as far as lining up the holes (mostly). The problem is that for all 3 bearings the cam bearing slightly covers the set screw holes such that I have a crescent moon shaped blockage. So what do I do now? I am afraid that if I insert the set screws that I will mar the bearings. I thought about drilling out the blockage, but even though it's minor, I'm worried that they might travel a bit later and end up blocking one of the other holes. Any suggestions? Thanks, Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L From fishplate at charter.net Wed Sep 8 13:45:21 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 15:45:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel Line fittings at Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3AD5EF78073D413E9283EF73FF78D8DD@M4A> > Also, I want to build into my fuel delivery system an auxiliary, > low-pressure facet pump. Would such an 'in-line' pump be able to pump > through the mechanical pump, or do I need to bypass it, should the > mechanical pump fail (again)? My Spitfire is done this way...most of the time the Facet is turned off and the mechanical pump does the work. The Facet is mounted in the engine compartment just ahead of the mechanical pump. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 14:33:50 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:33:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Voltage stabilizers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Moss catalog performance section p A28 Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 7, 2010, at 3:36 PM, Sandra and Trevor Hardy wrote: > Hi Listers....Have seen an advert for an electronic Voltage > Stabiliser for the > Fuelguage/Temp circuits for the TR4s. Have not been able to find it > again. > Could somebody please forward details of said invention to me. > Thanx......Trev. Hardy....Feilding; New Zealand. 25 Chrysler Brougham; > 65 TR4A; 70 MGBGT. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 8 15:27:49 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:27:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] cam bearing set screws In-Reply-To: <1283973848.3385.6.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1283973848.3385.6.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <213601cb4f9c$b076f6b0$1164e410$@rr.com> > The problem is that for all 3 bearings the cam bearing slightly > covers the set screw holes such that I have a crescent moon shaped > blockage. So what do I do now? I would first check that they are off-center enough to keep the pin from going through the hole. If so, take it back to the machine shop, ask them to do it right. It is something of a trial-and-error process, and it's absolutely essential that the pin fit into the hole. While I have resorted to drilling through a wrongly-installed insert, it was in a situation where I had nothing to lose if it didn't work. This is not the kind of shortcut to be taking with a freshly rebuilt engine (or even one you don't plan to replace soon). -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 8 15:53:42 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:53:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Voltage stabilizers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <214001cb4fa0$4f58ea60$ee0abf20$@rr.com> > Could somebody please forward details of said invention to me. In case you decide to build one yourself, there is a nice article at: http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/MGB-Voltage-Stabilizer.htm Don't forget that the electronic versions ARE polarity sensitive. Be sure to get one that matches the ground polarity of your car. -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Sep 7 15:30:21 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 17:30:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] problems with Heritage Motor Centre Tech Publication TR2-3A CD In-Reply-To: References: <001201cb4e04$075b22c0$16116840$@net> Message-ID: <0FA256E4B9E144F6A92F0432F7188BC8@CarlPC> Has anyone tried it with the new Windows 7? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Welch" To: "Miscuse1" ; Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 5:29 PM Subject: Re: [TR] problems with Heritage Motor Centre Tech Publication TR2-3A CD > >From what I recall, they only worked with Windows XP. They've withdrawn > sales of their CDs due to this problem ( > http://shop.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/shop/) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Sep 8 18:23:40 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 20:23:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] pulley failure update Message-ID: <201009082023.41037.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Well I decided to install the spare lower pulley tonight and I almost guessed the time correctly. I thought it would take 3 hours, ended up taking up 2.5. Refilled with new antifreeze and ran the engine until it reached normal temp and then let it run on high idle for about 5 minutes to make sure everything was ok. SFSG. After taking the broken pulley apart I noticed the crack was about 1.5 inches longer than the 2" piece that was thrown out. When I get a few spare minutes, I will take a photo and post it on the forum. I plan to keep this part as a reminder! When I was assembling the spare pulley on the shaft, I noticed that one of the bolts was stripped. Must of happened at the factory as I never did take this apart. Maybe the stripped bolt led to the fracture because it was not as tight as the rest? We will most likely never know. If this happens again, I will switch to the 1/2 inch system. Now can that be done with the stock generator and water pump? If so where do I source the parts? Thanks for all your help. Bob From elliottr at rmi.net Wed Sep 8 18:36:01 2010 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 19:36:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Powder Coating Question Message-ID: <4C882BF1.5020304@rmi.net> Hi Everyone, I have to replace the water pump and decided to do the pump housing as well on my Spitfire. I am thinking of powder coating the parts. Can I powder coat the pump? or are there parts that would get damaged by the heat? I know I would have to protect the vanes (entire side where the gasket is), the bolt holes and the groove in the pulley. Anything else to consider assuming the heat won't kill the pump? Thanks, Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 8 18:44:37 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 17:44:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] pulley failure update In-Reply-To: <201009082023.41037.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201009082023.41037.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <219601cb4fb8$2e681160$8b383420$@rr.com> > If this happens again, I will switch to the 1/2 inch system. Now can > that be > done with the stock generator and water pump? If so where do I source > the parts? Seems like Moss used to have a cheaper kit listed with an undampened pulley, but all I can find now is 837-508. Randall From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Sep 8 19:42:35 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:42:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly Message-ID: <863516.35677.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Listers, While taking apart my tr-3 motor the book keeps telling me to put small parts in a jam jar. Searching the kitchen I find we only eat jelly. I'm in a pickle........we do have some pickle jars. Has anyone tried saving parts in a jelly jar instead of a jam jar? Am wondering if it's ok to use another receptacle. LOL gary n. From twr at skybeam.com Wed Sep 8 20:30:49 2010 From: twr at skybeam.com (Todd W. Richmond) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 20:30:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] cam bearing set screws In-Reply-To: <213601cb4f9c$b076f6b0$1164e410$@rr.com> References: <1283973848.3385.6.camel@localhost.localdomain> <213601cb4f9c$b076f6b0$1164e410$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1283999450.3385.15.camel@localhost.localdomain> Randall, Thanks for the tips. I was able to get it to work after realizing that the set screws are tapered (mine were new and still in the package, so I hadn't noticed the tapered pin). It was a tight fit even so, and one actually did create a slight burr on the edge of the hole in the cam bearing. Luckily the bearing holes are slightly tapered, so that there wasn't much for the set screw to collide with. Backing out the screw and hitting it with a round file with a couple swipes took care of that without too much trouble. Thanks! -Todd On Wed, 2010-09-08 at 14:27 -0700, Randall wrote: > > The problem is that for all 3 bearings the cam bearing slightly > > covers the set screw holes such that I have a crescent moon shaped > > blockage. So what do I do now? > > I would first check that they are off-center enough to keep the pin from > going through the hole. If so, take it back to the machine shop, ask them > to do it right. It is something of a trial-and-error process, and it's > absolutely essential that the pin fit into the hole. > > While I have resorted to drilling through a wrongly-installed insert, it was > in a situation where I had nothing to lose if it didn't work. This is not > the kind of shortcut to be taking with a freshly rebuilt engine (or even one > you don't plan to replace soon). > > -- Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/twr at skybeam.com From twr at skybeam.com Wed Sep 8 20:46:18 2010 From: twr at skybeam.com (Todd W. Richmond) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 20:46:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] cam bearing set screws In-Reply-To: References: <1283973848.3385.6.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <1284000378.3385.31.camel@localhost.localdomain> Randy, Wow. I had already googled your write-up and found it very helpful. I didn't know about the extra oil holes, so I was able to confirm that mine were basically lined up. Using the round mirror was a great idea that helped as well. As you probably saw from my response to Randall I was able to get the existing situation to work without too much trouble. They are not aligned perfectly, but good enough to let the set screw pins through. I didn't realize when I read it how recent your post and pictures on britishcarforum.com were until you mentioned it! We seem to be going through the same process at relatively the same time. What are you working on now? I would love to stay in touch with you and compare notes as we go through this, although I must say that I am really a beginner and will not likely be able to be of much help to you. I also work pretty slowly as I am the father of 6 kids with one on the way, so I don't always have a lot of time to tinker in the garage. I'm trying to do this project together with my 16-yr-old son, but it can be hard to find times when our schedules link up. Still, I'd love to keep in touch; it'd be fun to kind of go through this together with someone. Cheers, -Todd Richmond On Wed, 2010-09-08 at 16:45 -0500, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: > Todd- > > I actually did this operation this past weekend for my 3A engine using > a borrowed tool and reported it on another car forum: > http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/706394/TR3_4_Cam_Bearing_Install#Post706394 > snip From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 20:54:42 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 20:54:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: <863516.35677.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <863516.35677.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1DCE805A-6835-41DB-8AC8-2A48E00CD646@comcast.net> I always use a preserves jar that way the parts don't deteriorate by the time I get them back on. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:42 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > Listers, > While taking apart my tr-3 motor the book keeps telling me to put > small parts in > a jam jar. Searching the kitchen I find we only eat jelly. I'm in a > pickle........we do have some pickle jars. Has anyone tried saving > parts in a > jelly jar instead of a jam jar? Am wondering if it's ok to use > another > receptacle. > > LOL > > gary n. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed Sep 8 21:02:24 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 22:02:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: <863516.35677.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <863516.35677.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It might be a MG motor when you put it back to geather! I would not take a chance! Go buy some jam and empty the jar, even if you have to throw the jam away. Then you will be good to go... Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:42:35 -0700 > From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly > > Listers, > While taking apart my tr-3 motor the book keeps telling me to put small parts in > a jam jar. Searching the kitchen I find we only eat jelly. I'm in a > pickle........we do have some pickle jars. Has anyone tried saving parts in a > jelly jar instead of a jam jar? Am wondering if it's ok to use another > receptacle. > > LOL > > gary n. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From mark at bradakis.com Wed Sep 8 21:31:03 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 21:31:03 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] Team.Net hiccups Message-ID: <20100909033103.30B072E0B5@bradakis.com> Yes, the lists have been acting funny today. There was a loss of connectivity to the world for about 24 hours, so email was delayed and web pages were unavailable. I do apologize for the inconvenience. mjb. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 8 21:34:24 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 20:34:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: <863516.35677.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <863516.35677.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <051401cb4fcf$e62881b0$0301a8c0@randall> > Searching the kitchen I find we only eat jelly. As it turns out, that is one of those "separated by a common language" things ... to a Brit, "jelly" is flavored gelatine (like Jell-O), rather than the fruit preserves that Americans know as "jelly". So you can use your "jelly" jar with confidence! Personally, I prefer to use the jars that we get mixed nuts in; but it has been said that I'm a bit nutty ... Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 8 21:36:56 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 20:36:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Powder Coating Question In-Reply-To: <4C882BF1.5020304@rmi.net> References: <4C882BF1.5020304@rmi.net> Message-ID: <051501cb4fd0$410e28f0$0301a8c0@randall> > Can I powder coat > the pump? > or are there parts that would get damaged by the heat? If it uses any kind of elastomer (rubber) in the seal, it probably won't like 400F. Not sure about the lubricant in the bearings, but I can't imagine it would do them any good, either. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 8 22:05:34 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 21:05:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Team.Net hiccups In-Reply-To: <20100909033103.30B072E0B5@bradakis.com> References: <20100909033103.30B072E0B5@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <051c01cb4fd4$40dbd180$0301a8c0@randall> > I do apologize for the inconvenience. > > mjb. On the contrary, Thank You for once again getting Team.Net back on the air! Randall From ebartle at hbci.com Thu Sep 9 04:55:02 2010 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 05:55:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 A on Craigslist Message-ID: This is the link to my TR3A that is listed on craigslist http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/cto/1939685599.html I will apply a 10% reduction to any VTR or MN Triumph members Eric From mntr3a at aol.com Thu Sep 9 06:15:01 2010 From: mntr3a at aol.com (mntr3a at aol.com) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 08:15:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] information on various penetrating oils Message-ID: <8CD1E2FC320F406-1BE0-FDBA@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Machinist's Workshop Mag (tm)recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. the magazine reports they tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *Penetrating oil .......... Average load* None ........................... 516 pounds WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix...............53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Pat Bob From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Sep 9 06:45:16 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 08:45:16 EDT Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly Message-ID: <8f2a.1595896f.39ba30dc@cs.com> In a message dated 9/8/2010 9:00:52 PM Central Daylight Time, nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: > While taking apart my tr-3 motor the book keeps telling me to put small > parts in > a jam jar. Searching the kitchen I find we only eat jelly. I'm in a > pickle........we do have some pickle jars. Has anyone tried saving parts > in a > jelly jar instead of a jam jar? Am wondering if it's ok to use another > receptacle. > According to the WiseGeek ( http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-difference-between-jam-and-jelly.htm ) the difference between jam and jelly is that jam is made with fruit solids whereas jelly is made with just fruit juice. Therefore if you use jelly jars you may end up with only the grease and loose the part. So don't use a jelly jar. Pickling is another way of preserving (and that is what you want to do, isn't it? Preserve the parts?) that uses vinegar instead of sugar. And since pickles are solid objects the pickle jar will do just fine. Of course, your car may have a more sour disposition when you get it back together but that may not be all bad. Go to Sam's and get an industrial sized jar (you know, the 5 gallon size) and you can keep ALL of your parts in one jar. That way your wife will only have one jar to throw away when she does spring cleaning. Dave (looking for a wine barrel for my parts) From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 9 06:47:31 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 05:47:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel Line fittings at Fuel Pump Message-ID: <757144.23539.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 15:45:21 -0400 From: "Jeff" Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fuel Line fittings at Fuel Pump > Also, I want to build into my fuel delivery system an auxiliary, > low-pressure facet pump. Would such an 'in-line' pump be able to pump > through the mechanical pump, or do I need to bypass it, should the > mechanical pump fail (again)? My Spitfire is done this way...most of the time the Facet is turned off and the mechanical pump does the work. The Facet is mounted in the engine compartment just ahead of the mechanical pump. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. ------------------------------ Hi Jeff & Brian! Yes! It can be done because I've done it to my TR4A. Iinstalled all new lines, rubber flex hoses, PI clamps, Heat sheild 3 shut off valves with a 'T' fitting. one line runs the org. way, at the Bulkhead, I put the 'T' in & ran the other line up & around the engine & air filters to the carbs & a toggel switch. The gas runs thru the E-pump & the org line thru the M-pump to the carbs WITHOUT the E-pump running. Then IF I do have problems, I can flip the switch to keep me going so I can pull off to turn off the running to the M-pump & open the bulkhead line & have the toggle switch on to finish off the ride to work on the problem later that night or when I can get a chance. -Cosmo Kramer From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Sep 9 06:48:00 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 08:48:00 EDT Subject: [TR] Powder Coating Question Message-ID: <9189.110e58e2.39ba3180@cs.com> In a message dated 9/8/2010 7:59:47 PM Central Daylight Time, elliottr at rmi.net writes: > I have to replace the water pump and decided to do the pump housing as > well on my Spitfire. > > I am thinking of powder coating the parts. Can I powder coat the pump? > or are there parts that would get damaged by the heat? > > I know I would have to protect the vanes (entire side where the gasket > is), the bolt holes and the groove in the pulley. Anything else to > consider assuming the heat won't kill the pump? > You can do the pump housing, there's noting there to harm. Be sure to mask off the block attachment and pump mounting mating surfaces. I wouldn't even consider the pump for reasons outlined by Randall. Dave From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Sep 9 07:00:13 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:00:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] information on various penetrating oils In-Reply-To: <8CD1E2FC320F406-1BE0-FDBA@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD1E2FC320F406-1BE0-FDBA@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <445CC3AC843244A189A58B0CD5CAC958@CarlPC> Should we assume that the length of time 'percolating was the same for all? I have an old rusty TR3 cowl sitting next to the garage with the steering column support still attached. 'scientifically rusted' by 10+ years of Florida humidity. I have all except the Kano Kroil and I believe 4 bolt/nuts. I'll let you know how the un-scientific test goes.... I have used Liquid Wrench for most of my stubborn parts as I did find it 'better' than WD. The biggest issue there is the dribble application vs spray so have used PB Blaster instead. I haven't looked lately if LW comes in aerosol. Thanks for sharing... C ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 8:15 AM Subject: [TR] information on various penetrating oils > Machinist's Workshop Mag (tm)recently published some information on > various > penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might > appreciate > this. the magazine reports they tested penetrants for break out torque on > rusted nuts. > They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. > > They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants > with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from > a "scientifically rusted" environment. > > *Penetrating oil .......... Average load* > None ........................... 516 pounds > WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds > PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds > Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds > Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds > ATF-Acetone mix...............53 pounds > > The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic > transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better > than any commercial product in this one particular test. > > Pat Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Sep 9 07:04:05 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 09:04:05 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel Line fittings at Fuel Pump Message-ID: In a message dated 9/8/2010 1:16:24 PM Central Daylight Time, tr4zest at gmail.com writes: > I searched the archives and thought I'd found my answer, however the > 5/16" > NPT and 1/4" NPT fittings I just bought do not fit the inlet/outlet on my > TR4's mechanical pump. Close, but no cigar. > > Could anyone please tell me what threaded fittings I need for attaching to > the TRs mechanical pump? > Aren't these flare fittings? Or compression fittings? NPT won't work, the thread and diameters are different and the NPT are tapered, the others are not. Dave From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Sep 9 07:06:39 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:06:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Powder Coating Question In-Reply-To: <9189.110e58e2.39ba3180@cs.com> References: <9189.110e58e2.39ba3180@cs.com> Message-ID: <7CEDF97F54684C658922A3DAF84431D7@CarlPC> I did PC the housing - masking off the areas Dave mentioned. Powder coating is much 'smoother' than regular finishes. I had a hard time getting the top radiator hose to grip. I ended up sanding it down a bit before installing the hose. It would be much easier to do that with it off the car than on it. as an option you could mask off 1" or so of that outlet. C ----- Original Message ----- From: snip > > You can do the pump housing, there's noting there to harm. Be sure to > mask > off the block attachment and pump mounting mating surfaces. > > I wouldn't even consider the pump for reasons outlined by Randall. > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Sep 9 07:12:38 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 09:12:38 EDT Subject: [TR] Powder Coating Question Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2010 8:10:26 AM Central Daylight Time, cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: > I did PC the housing - masking off the areas Dave mentioned. Powder > coating > is much 'smoother' than regular finishes. I had a hard time getting the > top > radiator hose to grip. I ended up sanding it down a bit before installing > > the hose. It would be much easier to do that with it off the car than on > it. as an option you could mask off 1" or so of that outlet. > Good point. Plug the threaded hole for the temp gauge bulb, too. Dave From cfisher at borgwarner.com Thu Sep 9 07:29:28 2010 From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 09:29:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] information on various penetrating oils In-Reply-To: <445CC3AC843244A189A58B0CD5CAC958@CarlPC> References: <8CD1E2FC320F406-1BE0-FDBA@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> <445CC3AC843244A189A58B0CD5CAC958@CarlPC> Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD02E835A6@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> Heating and letting candle wax melt and wick into the threads usually works when all else has failed. I'll also be trying the ATF/Acetone cocktail though. Curt -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 8:00 AM To: mntr3a at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] information on various penetrating oils Should we assume that the length of time 'percolating was the same for all? I have an old rusty TR3 cowl sitting next to the garage with the steering column support still attached. 'scientifically rusted' by 10+ years of Florida humidity. I have all except the Kano Kroil and I believe 4 bolt/nuts. I'll let you know how the un-scientific test goes.... I have used Liquid Wrench for most of my stubborn parts as I did find it 'better' than WD. The biggest issue there is the dribble application vs spray so have used PB Blaster instead. I haven't looked lately if LW comes in aerosol. Thanks for sharing... C ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 8:15 AM Subject: [TR] information on various penetrating oils > Machinist's Workshop Mag (tm)recently published some information on > various > penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might > appreciate > this. the magazine reports they tested penetrants for break out torque on > rusted nuts. > They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. > > They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants > with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from > a "scientifically rusted" environment. > > *Penetrating oil .......... Average load* > None ........................... 516 pounds > WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds > PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds > Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds > Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds > ATF-Acetone mix...............53 pounds > > The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic > transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better > than any commercial product in this one particular test. > > Pat Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfisher at borgwarner.com From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Sep 9 07:42:21 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 08:42:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly References: <863516.35677.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <051401cb4fcf$e62881b0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <55B9CB56D9A14C7C995B57A2C5D95F4B@trigeni.com> >> Searching the kitchen I find we only eat jelly. > > As it turns out, that is one of those "separated by a common language" > things ... to a Brit, "jelly" is flavored gelatine (like Jell-O), rather > than the fruit preserves that Americans know as "jelly". So you can use > your "jelly" jar with confidence! > Hence my confusion when I first arrived in the US in 1973 when my new wife's nephew asked me for a "peanut butter and jelly" sandwich. Fortunately I sought guidance from the Mrs. and didn't give him what I thought he was asking for! Mike From wbeech at flash.net Thu Sep 9 07:58:19 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 07:58:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel Line fittings at Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <757144.23539.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <757144.23539.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If you put an elect pump ahead of the orig pump, will fuel flow through an inoperable original pump. I would seem this would eliminate the need for excessive plumbing. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 6:48 AM To: Jeff Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel Line fittings at Fuel Pump Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 15:45:21 -0400 From: "Jeff" Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fuel Line fittings at Fuel Pump > Also, I want to build into my fuel delivery system an auxiliary, > low-pressure facet pump. Would such an 'in-line' pump be able to pump > through the mechanical pump, or do I need to bypass it, should the > mechanical pump fail (again)? My Spitfire is done this way...most of the time the Facet is turned off and the mechanical pump does the work. The Facet is mounted in the engine compartment just ahead of the mechanical pump. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. ------------------------------ Hi Jeff & Brian! Yes! It can be done because I've done it to my TR4A. Iinstalled all new lines, rubber flex hoses, PI clamps, Heat sheild 3 shut off valves with a 'T' fitting. one line runs the org. way, at the Bulkhead, I put the 'T' in & ran the other line up & around the engine & air filters to the carbs & a toggel switch. The gas runs thru the E-pump & the org line thru the M-pump to the carbs WITHOUT the E-pump running. Then IF I do have problems, I can flip the switch to keep me going so I can pull off to turn off the running to the M-pump & open the bulkhead line & have the toggle switch on to finish off the ride to work on the problem later that night or when I can get a chance. -Cosmo Kramer _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 9 08:54:58 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 07:54:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel Line fittings at Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <059501cb502e$f9366380$0301a8c0@randall> > Aren't these flare fittings? Or compression fittings? They are "reverse" compression fittings, used only for automotive fuel lines AFAIK. To make matters worse, the originals used compression sleeves that were a different shape than those available today. Here's Scott Suhring's way to deal with that problem: http://tinyurl.com/2cwfqe9 PS, one of my TRs came to me with a NPT fitting forced into the pump. The threads don't match, of course, but the DPO managed to get the tapered fitting threads to seal inside the straight pump threads. I don't know how. Randall From spamiam at comcast.net Thu Sep 9 08:59:37 2010 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:59:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Voltage stabilizers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1754450514.1201344.1284044377589.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Trev, The electronic device that Moss sells is OK. It regulates adequately and is cheap. The version I had used NO protection. A malfunctioning set of HT ignition wires caused what must have been severe spikes in the electrical system that destroyed my stabilizer. I am not sure what voltage it stabilized to, but I don't think it is precisely 10v. I think it regulates to about 10.5v, but mine died before I thought to check it out. I didn't know it was electronic until I opened it up after it died. I designed a different one using an automotive grade 10v regulator, and some extra spike protection. I have been using it for a year and it has been working perfectly. I even made a little printed circuit board so it fits inside the case of the dead one! I can tell you more if you want. -Tony ----- Original Message ----- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 09:36:26 +1200 From: Sandra and Trevor Hardy Subject: [TR] Voltage stabilizers To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Listers....Have seen an advert for an electronic Voltage Stabiliser for the Fuelguage/Temp circuits for the TR4s. Have not been able to find it again. Could somebody please forward details of said invention to me. Thanx......Trev. Hardy....Feilding; New Zealand. 25 Chrysler Brougham; 65 TR4A; 70 MGBGT. **************************************** From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Thu Sep 9 10:16:52 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:16:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: <8f2a.1595896f.39ba30dc@cs.com> References: <8f2a.1595896f.39ba30dc@cs.com> Message-ID: > Dave (looking for a wine barrel for my parts) Your parts or your car's parts ?!?! Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From guy at genfiniti.com Thu Sep 9 12:57:58 2010 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 13:57:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Alternator Kits for TR4A Message-ID: <5B017127-DD13-430B-832C-FE403B43FAF3@genfiniti.com> Listers, Does anyone know of an alternator kit that does not require me to eschew the original pulley? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 9 15:18:54 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:18:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alternator Kits for TR4A In-Reply-To: <5B017127-DD13-430B-832C-FE403B43FAF3@genfiniti.com> References: <5B017127-DD13-430B-832C-FE403B43FAF3@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <063c01cb5064$9be32f20$0301a8c0@randall> > Does anyone know of an alternator kit that does not require > me to eschew the original pulley? I don't know of a kit, but I did it myself by having the original pulley bored out to fit an alternator shaft. It did work and I ran that way for many years, but I wouldn't particularly recommend it. For one thing, the largish pulley diameter kept the alternator from charging at idle. One of the advantages of alternators over generators is that they can spin faster, meaning you can choose pulley sizes to keep them charging at idle. Using the generator pulley throws that advantage away. It also made it impossible to get the alternator close enough to the engine to change belts without having to undo the lower mount. I had to cut the alternator case, and the engine front plate, and use a longer belt; to get it to work. Using one of the smaller diameter pulleys made for the purpose makes much more sense to me; and is what I'll be using when/if I do another conversion. Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Sep 9 16:09:25 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 22:09:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: <863516.35677.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <168268816.581680.1284070165020.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >While taking apart my tr-3 motor the book keeps telling me to put small parts in >a jam jar. Searching the kitchen I find we only eat jelly. I'm in a >pickle........we do have some pickle jars. Has anyone tried saving parts in a >jelly jar instead of a jam jar? Am wondering if it's ok to use another >receptacle. Gary, I would just offer that former marines can keep it all in their [jar] head. Marines who...by the way...when I was in Navy boot camp in the late 60's, I'd be taking a shower, look out the window, and still see jarheads still running. Navy looked pretty good right then. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Sep 9 16:16:19 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 22:16:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] New One In-Reply-To: <863516.35677.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1405660542.581996.1284070579278.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> We sometimes discuss on the List those TR items that are indestructible. My engine block had stress fractures in the webbing, so no. And the original 50 year old radiator I had reinstalled blossomed a leak in the resevoir recently and had to be replaced. More or less to be expected, I guess. This weekend, though, my ancient walnut gearshift knob came apart in pieces when I downshifted, not particularly spiritedly. Reminded me of a Red Sox baseball bat disintegrating and flying back at an opposing pitcher. The new one from TRF that came today is gorgeous, by the way. Almost glad it happened, except I sourced the now-broken one from Fred Perry--who passed away--and had a certain sentimental value. Next thing you know, the driver will begin to fail. Does the TRF, Moss or other carry one of those refurbished???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Thu Sep 9 16:33:02 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 18:33:02 EDT Subject: [TR] New One Message-ID: <30337.592bc41d.39baba9e@aol.com> This reminds me of when I worked at a Land Rover/Range Rover dealer in the UK in the late '80's. They'd come in for their first 1,000 miles service with a list of faults as long as your arm and the only way we could keep our spirits up was so shout "they don't last forever, you know!" When we had a really irate customer, the manufacturer would suggest we tell the customer that they had, after all, bought a "high maintenance vehicle". Such customer service... Tim From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Sep 9 17:30:17 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 19:30:17 EDT Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly Message-ID: <334e8.64ce1836.39bac809@cs.com> In a message dated 9/9/2010 11:16:54 AM Central Daylight Time, rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: > >Dave (looking for a wine barrel for my parts) > > Your parts or your car's parts ?!?! > Well, now that you mention it, mostly my liver. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 9 17:56:24 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 16:56:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] New One In-Reply-To: <1405660542.581996.1284070579278.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <863516.35677.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <1405660542.581996.1284070579278.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <067801cb507a$9cb3eaa0$0301a8c0@randall> > My engine block had stress fractures in the > webbing, so no. I'm just curious, Terry, did those actually cause a problem? Or was it just a matter of "Look at that, guess I'd better find another block" even though that one had worked just fine for several decades? We found a casting flaw in a cylinder head that I had reworked for hardened valve seats, but it doesn't appear to have ever caused a problem. Randall From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Thu Sep 9 20:14:36 2010 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 22:14:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bob Tullius and Lanky Foushee at VTR National In-Reply-To: <7A8B0551548B429DB2AEB33243C10971@BobPC> References: <6AB75623-D822-4394-9D14-FAEFAC1C9DD7@nc.rr.com> <7A8B0551548B429DB2AEB33243C10971@BobPC> Message-ID: <5CCE2183-76A7-4012-A841-BEFA4F4608F7@blakedischer.com> At Jekyll Island: Meet Triumph's Racing Legend Bob Tullius with Crew Chief Lanky Foushee! Triumph's racing and performance legend, Mr. Bob Tullius, will be making a special guest appearance at the VTR National Convention which takes place October 17-22 on beautiful Jekyll Island, Georgia. Along with Bob will be Lanky Foushee, Crew Chief of the legendary Group 44 Triumph race team. On hand we will have two of the Group 44 cars that once were part of the history making team of Triumphs. On display will be the TR6 and the GT6 that once were part of the dominating team of Triumphs. In addition to the Group 44 cars, the British Leyland Motor Corporation, as a part of their gratitude for his services, gave Bob the very last factory built TR6 which he still owns. Bob has agreed to allow us to display this special TR6. This car has not been shown outside of his garage since he took possession of it. Former Triumph Advertising and PR manager, Triumph Driver and VTR editor Mr. Mike Cook will be our Guest Speaker for this event. Mike's knowledge, experience and his ability to share his stories of the former glory years will be an opportunity you will not want to miss. Convention lodging starts at $99 per night, room discounts expire in less than one week. Full details: http://www.vtr2010.com/ Cheers, Blake Discher From mark at bradakis.com Thu Sep 9 20:19:39 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 20:19:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: <8f2a.1595896f.39ba30dc@cs.com> References: <8f2a.1595896f.39ba30dc@cs.com> Message-ID: <4C8995BB.60204@bradakis.com> > Pickling is another way of preserving (and that is what you want to do, > isn't it? Preserve the parts?) that uses vinegar instead of sugar. And since > pickles are solid objects the pickle jar will do just fine. Of course, your > car may have a more sour disposition when you get it back together but that > may not be all bad. > I don't have my reference books handy, but in the discussion regarding pickles I seem to recall there was a monkey with a wooden leg involved in the equation. mjb. From allegrorover at mac.com Thu Sep 9 20:43:12 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 22:43:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] alignment Message-ID: <06A45984-2B67-44E8-AC7E-CDC5ED7A411B@mac.com> List, Can anyone tell me if the alignment specs are the same for a 58/59 TR3 and a 1964 TR, I assume a TR4, not sure though. I have a local shop that has an alignment machine that has the specs for the 1964 TR, and I would guess they may be the same, but I'm sure one of you might be able to give me a better read on the subject. I know that it can be checked in other ways with the manual but this might be a better setup if it's the same. Thanks in advance Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Thu Sep 9 20:48:48 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 21:48:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: <4C8995BB.60204@bradakis.com> References: <8f2a.1595896f.39ba30dc@cs.com>,<4C8995BB.60204@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Seem to me I've seem references to a pickle fork. I thought it had to do with taking the frontend apart, but may it was for getting the parts out of the pickle jar. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 10 06:14:50 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:14:50 EDT Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly Message-ID: <4a4ef.4c6e3646.39bb7b3a@cs.com> In a message dated 9/9/2010 9:23:08 PM Central Daylight Time, mark at bradakis.com writes: > I don't have my reference books handy, but in the discussion regarding > pickles I seem to recall there was a monkey with a wooden leg involved > in the equation. > Mark, Mark, Mark. That's politically incorrect. It should be "Simian with a prosthetic made of natural materials." Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 10 06:19:30 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:19:30 EDT Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly Message-ID: <4a83a.77e565ea.39bb7c52@cs.com> In a message dated 9/9/2010 9:53:19 PM Central Daylight Time, rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: > Seem to me I've seem references to a pickle fork. > I thought it had to do with taking the frontend apart, but may it was for > getting the parts out of the pickle jar. > Hey, what ever happened to the pickle knife and pickle spoon? Dave From dwillner at ptd.net Fri Sep 10 06:20:23 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:20:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need a TR3 Jaeger fuel gauge Message-ID: <690F1BB2B5BD4CEEAB03BF0F873F928E@valued9cfc0b6f> Does anyone have a spare Jaeger fuel gauge you might be able to sell for a TR3A? Please let me know, thanks Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Sep 10 06:51:28 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:51:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: <4a4ef.4c6e3646.39bb7b3a@cs.com> References: <4a4ef.4c6e3646.39bb7b3a@cs.com> Message-ID: <199A2531C1E74684A4BBD00305F8D644@CarlPC> A friend from school 40+ years ago was nicknamed 'chimp' - never understood why - until this post. His last name was 'Simion'. Never put the two together..... We had a lot of great times in/on/under my '3 and his MGB... ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 8:14 AM Subject: Re: [TR] engine dis-assembly > In a message dated 9/9/2010 9:23:08 PM Central Daylight Time, > mark at bradakis.com writes: >> I don't have my reference books handy, but in the discussion regarding >> pickles I seem to recall there was a monkey with a wooden leg involved >> in the equation. >> > > Mark, Mark, Mark. That's politically incorrect. It should be "Simian > with > a prosthetic made of natural materials." > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From lee.k.janssen at lmco.com Fri Sep 10 06:56:43 2010 From: lee.k.janssen at lmco.com (Janssen, Lee K) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 06:56:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph TR4 / TR6 rear diff Message-ID: Dudes: Anyone in the St. Louis area have a Triumph TR4 / TR6 rear differential that they are willing to sell for say $100? I have some differentials in Denver (for sale for $75); someone needs one in St. Louis and I think it makes sense to buy and ship local given that the things are as heavy as a pig. Thanks in advance for the info. Lee 74 Turbo TR6 - still buried in the garage following the move :( From AA00727 at aol.com Fri Sep 10 09:14:05 2010 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:14:05 EDT Subject: [TR] Engine oil for break-in of TR3 Message-ID: <55dba.4a00e583.39bba53d@aol.com> I have just over 500 miles on a freshly rebuilt TR-3 engine that was modified for increased performance by Uncle Jack Drews with ported and polished head, 2.2 liter cylinder liners, hotter cam, and header. I want to change oil but I'm not sure what to use at this point. I will eventually probably go with a full synthetic like Mobil 1, but I suppose at this point I may still need to be "wearing in" the cylinder liners, etc. Would a 20W50 racing oil be a good choice or just a regular 20W40? At what point can I assume the engine is fully "broken in" and switch to synthetics, or should I avoid them and just use a good racing oil? Thanks! From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 10 09:34:37 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:34:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] Engine oil for break-in of TR3 In-Reply-To: <55dba.4a00e583.39bba53d@aol.com> References: <55dba.4a00e583.39bba53d@aol.com> Message-ID: [I will eventually probably go with a full synthetic like Mobil 1, but I suppose at this point I may still need to be "wearing in" the cylinder liners, etc. Would a 20W50 racing oil be a good choice or just a regular 20W40?] I am sure the list will have a lot to say on this topic, but at the end of the day you will want to be comfortable that you have an oil with the requisite amount of ZDDP to protect all the old-style innards of your new engine. Based on previous List threads and some calling of my own I settled on Valvoline VR-1 20-50 conventional oil for my new TR3 engine, now with 1,800 miles on it with no ill effects. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From pete_groh at yahoo.com Fri Sep 10 10:01:04 2010 From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:01:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Wanted lock insert FP 660 & FS 955 + Info on British car keys/locks Message-ID: <775293.77400.qm@web36803.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I came across this web page and bookmark the site. http://www.angliaobsolete.com/keys.html When cars are restored locks may have been changed. If you get a car build record, may find that information on the correct keys for your car. http://www.angliaobsolete.com/keys.html I have a ad posted in the British car forum looking for a ignition switch lock insert FP 660 and FS 955. b We wanted to let you know that your ad, titled "Lock insert needed FP 660 & FS 955 (ignition switch)", has been approved and is now visible.b Here is the link to the ad: http://www.britishcarforum.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=151 Kind regards, Pete Groh (KeyGuy) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Sep 10 14:04:58 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:04:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Engine oil for break-in of TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <55dba.4a00e583.39bba53d@aol.com> Message-ID: <201009101604.59394.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday, September 10, 2010 11:34:37 am wbeech at flash.net wrote: > [I will eventually probably go with a full synthetic like Mobil 1, but I > suppose at this point I may still need to be "wearing in" the cylinder > liners, etc. Would a 20W50 racing oil be a good choice or just a regular > 20W40?] > > > I am sure the list will have a lot to say on this topic, but at the end of > the day you will want to be comfortable that you have an oil with the > requisite amount of ZDDP to protect all the old-style innards of your new > engine. Based on previous List threads and some calling of my own I > settled on Valvoline VR-1 20-50 conventional oil for my new TR3 engine, > now with 1,800 miles on it with no ill effects. > > Bill > Bill, I used Brad Penn 30W break in oil on my TR3 rebuilt engine for about 500 - 600 miles then I changed the filter and added Brad Penn 20/50 Racing Oil. Lots of the zinc etc. Use the same oil in my TR4. Bob From FordneyNJ at aol.com Fri Sep 10 15:25:11 2010 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:25:11 EDT Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly Message-ID: <6f432.47d343f6.39bbfc37@aol.com> Ok guys, can it! Rodney Ford, President Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS TR7 Spider Message: 3 Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 22:09:25 +0000 (UTC) From: terryrs at comcast.net Subject: Re: [TR] engine dis-assembly To: Gary Nafziger Cc: _triumphs at autox.team_ (mailto:triumphs at autox.team) . Gary, I would just offer that former marines can keep it all in their [jar] head. Marines who...by the way...when I was in Navy boot camp in the late 60's, I'd be taking a shower, look out the window, and still see jarheads still running. Navy looked pretty good right then. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 10 15:29:00 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:29:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: <6f432.47d343f6.39bbfc37@aol.com> References: <6f432.47d343f6.39bbfc37@aol.com> Message-ID: <4107391132F0400FB2DCA0F8476172F3@bboffice> Did you mean, "Jar it"? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FordneyNJ at aol.com Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 3:25 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly Ok guys, can it! Rodney Ford, President Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS TR7 Spider Message: 3 Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 22:09:25 +0000 (UTC) From: terryrs at comcast.net Subject: Re: [TR] engine dis-assembly To: Gary Nafziger Cc: _triumphs at autox.team_ (mailto:triumphs at autox.team) . Gary, I would just offer that former marines can keep it all in their [jar] head. Marines who...by the way...when I was in Navy boot camp in the late 60's, I'd be taking a shower, look out the window, and still see jarheads still running. Navy looked pretty good right then. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 17:55:41 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 23:55:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] New One In-Reply-To: <067801cb507a$9cb3eaa0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1158590316.640184.1284162941455.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >> My engine block had stress fractures in the >> webbing, so no. >I'm just curious, Terry, did those actually cause a problem? Or was it just >a matter of "Look at that, guess I'd better find another block" even though >that one had worked just fine for several decades? >We found a casting flaw in a cylinder head that I had reworked for hardened >valve seats, but it doesn't appear to have ever caused a problem. Hi, Randall. It's hard to say if these cracks actually caused a mechanical problem. I picked up the car when it had sat for 30 years in a shed. Didn't bother to try to restart the existing engine since I was doing a complete ground-up on the car, so simply took everything apart and rebuilt it all (even the wiper motor). Had the block magnifluxed in prep for a surface shaving; the machine shop showed me the cracks. The odometer read 43k, so probably 143k given the deteriorated condition of the car which may have been driven 15 years before being put up. A List member had a spare he gave me, so I replaced it altogether. You're probably right, it might have been just fine. But for the cost of a trip to Connecticut from New Hampshire to pick up the replacement (and a chance to meet another Lister), I went that route instead. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Fri Sep 10 19:07:52 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 20:07:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: <4107391132F0400FB2DCA0F8476172F3@bboffice> References: <6f432.47d343f6.39bbfc37@aol.com>, <4107391132F0400FB2DCA0F8476172F3@bboffice> Message-ID: We are just trying to preserve our sanity. Oh wait too late. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 10 20:20:04 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:20:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: References: <6f432.47d343f6.39bbfc37@aol.com>, <4107391132F0400FB2DCA0F8476172F3@bboffice> Message-ID: <001201cb5157$d90bb9a0$0301a8c0@randall> > We are just trying to preserve our sanity. Oh wait too late. Wouldn't it fit in the jar ? Randall From mondoluxe at suddenlink.net Fri Sep 10 22:00:14 2010 From: mondoluxe at suddenlink.net (Jeffrey Johnson) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 23:00:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] PCing a water pump Message-ID: <4C8AFECE.9080603@suddenlink.net> As a student of our P/C mentor, Fred Thomas, I can pass on this knowledge that was handed down to me from the master. Oh, and BTW, yes, I've ridden in Fred's TR3- he took me from his house in Stafford, VA to Fredericksburg, Va on or about May 5 , 2004. His Tr3 was and most likely still is stunning, The paint was flawless. I am replying to the inquiry about P/C ing a water pump. I would not attempt this w/ regular powder coat because of the temperatures, however, powder coat now has an adjunct- and it is call UV PC. Stick with me- here we go- instead of using 400 degree oven- it uses ultraviolet rays, Just a thought. perhaps Fred will chime in here- I certainly hope so- And yes, if you must know, I've been in a shop where they had a UV light that cured P/C. I can relay that I removed the trailing arms from my 1976 TR6 which were black from road tar- I took them to a guy that blasted them w/ walnut shells and only charged me $20.00. I took them home all shiny and new and P/Ced them clear. Whereas, I've been vilified in the past for singing the praises of powder coating, I will maintain that P/C is vastly superior technology and perhaps Fred was just a little ahead of his time. Jeffrey Guy From dwillner at ptd.net Sat Sep 11 05:29:15 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 07:29:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 dash recovering question Message-ID: Looking for any direction, tips, or "been there done that" on recovering the dash vinyl. It seems to be almost impossible to remove the original vinyl at this point, haven't tried heat yet. I did tried peeling a spot with a razor and its extremely difficult, almost impossible. I'm also concerned about laying it on smoothly without any creases or bubbles, specifically around the center panel cut out...thanks for the help. Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged From fishplate at charter.net Sat Sep 11 06:51:00 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:51:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel Line fittings at Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: References: <757144.23539.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <51B6BD7E2D1343EABC2A5E2C52DDA20A@M4A> > If you put an elect pump ahead of the orig pump, will fuel flow through an > inoperable original pump. I would seem this would eliminate the need for > excessive plumbing. Depends on how it's failed, but it's likely it would, unless a one-way valve is jammed shut. Be aware that if the failure is due to a diaphragm rupture, you ~may~ pump fuel into the crankcase. This would be a bad thing. I use my electric pump only rarely, as I installed it to solve a problem. Turns out I had a completely different problem. If I planned to use it regularly, I think I'd opt for the complicated plumbing, or make the lines easy to swap. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Sep 11 07:05:09 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 06:05:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] engine dis-assembly In-Reply-To: References: <6f432.47d343f6.39bbfc37@aol.com>, <4107391132F0400FB2DCA0F8476172F3@bboffice> Message-ID: <4C8B7E85.1090601@gmail.com> On 9/10/10 6:07 PM, Rich White wrote: > We are just trying to preserve our sanity. Oh wait too late. > Sanity is highly overrated and the term is way too subjective to be objective anyway. Teriann My life long goal has always been to be eccentric. It bypasses the concept of sanity. From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Sep 11 07:26:09 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 06:26:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 dash recovering question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8B8371.4010402@gmail.com> On 9/11/10 4:29 AM, davewillner wrote: > Looking for any direction, tips, or "been there done that" on recovering the > dash vinyl. It seems to be almost impossible to remove the original vinyl at > this point, haven't tried heat yet. I did tried peeling a spot with a razor > and its extremely difficult, almost impossible. I'm also concerned about > laying it on smoothly without any creases or bubbles, specifically around the > center panel cut out...thanks for the help. > My old vinyl was fairly easy to remove but when I looked at the complex curves I decided not to apply adhesive over everything and race the glue to to tight bubble free finish. Instead I did the panel a little at a time, letting the adhesive completely set up before doing the next bit. Its been a while so I dont remember how long it took but I think it was most of a week of letting adhesive set up over night before proceeding on to the next part. The project came out really well and I think it would have been a disaster if I tried to do it all at once. Teriann From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Sep 11 07:36:26 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:36:26 EDT Subject: [TR] PCing a water pump Message-ID: <89d64.2994a6cb.39bcdfda@cs.com> In a message dated 9/10/2010 11:00:13 PM Central Daylight Time, mondoluxe at suddenlink.net writes: > Whereas, I've been vilified in the past for singing the praises of > powder coating, I will maintain that P/C is vastly superior technology > and perhaps Fred was just a little ahead of his time. > Not by me. The concours folk classify powder coating as "over-restoration" and as such it will not garner deducts, it will just not score higher than the other car that has period-correct paint. But, the beauty of powder coat is that it will retain its lusture over many years. When you consider that we are in this for the olng term it only makes sense. Dave (Debutaunt Powder Coater) From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Sep 11 07:42:43 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:42:43 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 dash recovering question Message-ID: <8a11a.350f8688.39bce153@cs.com> In a message dated 9/11/2010 6:29:18 AM Central Daylight Time, dwillner at ptd.net writes: > Looking for any direction, tips, or "been there done that" on recovering > the > dash vinyl. It seems to be almost impossible to remove the original vinyl > at > this point, haven't tried heat yet. I did tried peeling a spot with a > razor > and its extremely difficult, almost impossible. I'm also concerned about > laying it on smoothly without any creases or bubbles, specifically around > the > center panel cut out...thanks for the help. > Me too. although I am a few months out yet. Dave From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Sep 11 08:11:07 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:11:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph Message-ID: <70EFF67CFA954C7B8F51F12CB7B094DA@BobPC> No Triumph content Does ATF fluid change from red to black over time? I've got an 07 Mazda3 with 40K miles that runs great. At the last oil change, the quick lube guys were saying that the ATF fluid needed to be changed because it was no longer red and was therefore dirty. Nothing in my manual about ever needing to change ATF............... Are the quick lube guys just looking to pad the profits? Or should ATF stay red even after 40K? Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From spamiam at comcast.net Sat Sep 11 08:28:31 2010 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:28:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Voltage stabilizers References: <864551.6547.qm@web51602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Cosmo, Here are pictures of the schematic and circuit board. Pretty simple. The characteristics of the capacitor on the output are somwhat critical. -Tony ----- Original Message ----- From: Cosmo Kramer To: spamiam at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 9:02 AM Subject: Voltage stabilizers Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:59:37 +0000 (UTC) From: spamiam at comcast.net Subject: Re: [TR] Voltage stabilizers Trev, The electronic device that Moss sells is OK. It regulates adequately and is cheap. The version I had used NO protection. A malfunctioning set of HT ignition wires caused what must have been severe spikes in the electrical system that destroyed my stabilizer. I am not sure what voltage it stabilized to, but I don't think it is precisely 10v. I think it regulates to about 10.5v, but mine died before I thought to check it out. I didn't know it was electronic until I opened it up after it died. I designed a different one using an automotive grade 10v regulator, and some extra spike protection. I have been using it for a year and it has been working perfectly. I even made a little printed circuit board so it fits inside the case of the dead one! I can tell you more if you want. -Tony ------------------------------- Hi Tony! I would like you to send me that 'little printed circuit board' diagram & tell me MORE. I decided to replace my current Voltage Stabilizer (VS) (Which is working) with one of Moss's VS, (thinking that it's 43 yr. old may not be that accurate). It worked great until I blew one of the two fuses that runs the car. I then received another one to replace the one that I had received from Moss/USA, because it was then reading down 1/4 of what it should read. I installed it but it seems that I'm not getting an accurate reading (I think?). Ex.- I fill the gas tank to the top of the tank (fuel is in part of the filler cap rubber hose exertion), & it reads the thickness of the needle below full). This is why I'm so interested in your thread. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3128 - Release Date: 09/11/10 02:34:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of VoltageStab_Board.png] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of VoltageStab_Schematic.png] From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Sep 11 08:39:48 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 14:39:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 dash recovering question In-Reply-To: <1878824873.1427450.1284213759573.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <967379396.1428828.1284215988061.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I liked Terri's comment on going slowly. Also, I didn't realize that there are metal clips that are used to attach the vinyl to the edges of the dash along the lower edge and glove box area. Trial fit the speedometer and Tach units, I think the vinyl in that area is cut flush with the holes (not wrapped around and through the hole). I have crinkle powder coat on the instrument cluster, which is more resistant to scratching than crinkle paint available from Moss and probably others. I used 3M glue from Lowe's and applied to both surfaces and let it get really tacky. I applied to just the flat surfaces initally - then as Terri said do the curved portions later - patiently doing small areas at a time. Call the Roadster Factory if you need the clips. I couldn't find them in the catalogs either at TRF or Moss but I think they have them. Hope this helps. Tom From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sat Sep 11 08:52:27 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:52:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 top front lip stiffener rods Message-ID: <4C8B97AB.9020408@blacksburg.net> Folks, 15 years ago, when I started this rustoration, I bought a pot-load of stuff from TRF, including a new vinyl top. Last year, when I installed the top, I noticed that the top lip didn't stay in the windshield clip. At speeds above 40MPH the top just peels back. While browsing the Moss catalog recently I noticed that they carry a set of 3 stiffener rods for the lip. Trouble is, they want $50 for them! 'Scuse me!? So I called TRF; they said yes, that they sell the rods, yes they are needed to retain it, no they didn't have them in stock. Would someone pls send me the stiffener dimensions? Hell's bells, for $50 I can make them out of extruded gold. tia jim -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From djsforza at gmail.com Sat Sep 11 09:03:13 2010 From: djsforza at gmail.com (Don Sforza) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:03:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 top front lip stiffener rods In-Reply-To: <4C8B97AB.9020408@blacksburg.net> References: <4C8B97AB.9020408@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: I made mine out of some brass stock (1/4 x about 1/32... thin enough to be stiff, thin enough to fit into the lip with the top). It's in three pieces to get the curve around the windscreen frame. I stiched a "knot" at the end of each piece to keep them in place. Don Sforza ex CT16707LO (anyone know where this car is?) From dwillner at ptd.net Sat Sep 11 09:09:52 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:09:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 dash recovering question References: <4C8B8371.4010402@gmail.com> Message-ID: <65A675D6D932453F82DA6A46D64A697E@valued9cfc0b6f> I believe my dash (TS65107) may have been dipped in a liquid vinyl, just heard that...I mean the fit is perfect after 50 years, just a few scratches (and a few extra holes...), I'll try your method...baby steps...and scuff up the existing vinyl real good, hoping it will take with contact cement...Did you heat up the vinyl at all to allow it to stretch and maybe mold a little easier in the center of the panel? I'm changing my interior from a Moss tan to an original stone...and the dash is the first step Appreciate it Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged ----- Original Message ----- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" To: Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 9:26 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 dash recovering question > On 9/11/10 4:29 AM, davewillner wrote: >> Looking for any direction, tips, or "been there done that" on recovering >> the >> dash vinyl. It seems to be almost impossible to remove the original vinyl >> at >> this point, haven't tried heat yet. I did tried peeling a spot with a >> razor >> and its extremely difficult, almost impossible. I'm also concerned about >> laying it on smoothly without any creases or bubbles, specifically around >> the >> center panel cut out...thanks for the help. >> > > My old vinyl was fairly easy to remove but when I looked at the complex > curves I decided not to apply adhesive over everything and race the glue > to to tight bubble free finish. Instead I did the panel a little at a > time, letting the adhesive completely set up before doing the next bit. > Its been a while so I dont remember how long it took but I think it was > most of a week of letting adhesive set up over night before proceeding on > to the next part. > > The project came out really well and I think it would have been a > disaster if I tried to do it all at once. > > Teriann > > _______________________________________________ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Sep 11 09:31:41 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:31:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 top front lip stiffener rods In-Reply-To: <4C8B97AB.9020408@blacksburg.net> References: <4C8B97AB.9020408@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <201009111131.42860.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday, September 11, 2010 10:52:27 am J.C. Hassall wrote: > Folks, 15 years ago, when I started this rustoration, I bought a > pot-load of stuff from TRF, including a new vinyl top. Last year, when > I installed the top, I noticed that the top lip didn't stay in the > windshield clip. At speeds above 40MPH the top just peels back. While > browsing the Moss catalog recently I noticed that they carry a set of 3 > stiffener rods for the lip. Trouble is, they want $50 for them! 'Scuse > me!? So I called TRF; they said yes, that they sell the rods, yes they > are needed to retain it, no they didn't have them in stock. > > Would someone pls send me the stiffener dimensions? Hell's bells, for > $50 I can make them out of extruded gold. > > tia > > jim Jim, I may have a set somewhere in my parts inventory. During my 63 4 restoration it came with what was left of the original top and before I put it in the trash I saved all the rear lift o dots and the stiffeners. Problem is I cannot remember where I put them! But they are there somewhere. Dont ask me why I save all those lift o dots. I must have over 100 of them! If I remember correctly, they are sort of spring steel and yes there are 3. I am leaving for a family reunion in a few minutes but when I get back I will take a look to see if I can locate the set.If I do, I will ship you an email. I can ship them to you via usps and when you get them you can have a choice, keep them and pay me what you think they are worth, or just use them as a template if you would like to fabricate them yourself. Just reimburse me for shipping. I am not looking to make a buck - just trying to help out. Bob From dwillner at ptd.net Sat Sep 11 09:44:29 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:44:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] more under dash questions... Message-ID: Does anyone know where the vent tray drain tube should drain too? I have seen pictures with both tubes (battery box and vent tray) going into a "Y" connector just sticking above the trans tunnel draining into one tube that runs along the housing, is that the deal? Thanks Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Sep 11 09:55:33 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:55:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] more under dash questions... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201009111155.34483.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday, September 11, 2010 11:44:29 am davewillner wrote: > Does anyone know where the vent tray drain tube should drain too? I have > seen pictures with both tubes (battery box and vent tray) going into a "Y" > connector just sticking above the trans tunnel draining into one tube that > runs along the housing, is that the deal? Thanks > > Dave Willner, PA > Dave, I installed that hose through the firewall on the left side if I believe, between the steering and the gas pedal. I exits the firewall facing the rear of the engine. The hole was there so I assumed it was for that drain. My battery drain hose just goes through a hole in the transmission tunnel although it should never drain anything unless my battery explodes. BTW, I used clear plastic tubing to replace the old rubber. Sourced it at Lowes. Bob From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 11 10:05:03 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:05:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] more under dash questions... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <180CEC2C75E04BBC8C0C8386800F2DB7@bboffice> [Does anyone know where the vent tray drain tube should drain too? I have seen pictures with both tubes (battery box and vent tray) going into a "Y" connector just sticking above the trans tunnel draining into one tube that runs along the housing, is that the deal?] Dave, I just went thought this stage last year. Have never seen a "Y" with the battery box drain as these are vastly different size hoses. Everything I found was a routing that took the hose out through what would be the RHS (or LHS) steering column hole. There is a plate and a triangular rubber blanking plate piece that is made for this purpose, TRF #603346 is the rubber, the hold-down plate is NLA but could be easily fabricated from a template. Hope this helps, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 11 10:06:55 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:06:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 dash recovering question In-Reply-To: <65A675D6D932453F82DA6A46D64A697E@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <4C8B8371.4010402@gmail.com> <65A675D6D932453F82DA6A46D64A697E@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: I did mine all in one day using a commercial contact spray adhesive "Permagrip" but the brush-on or spray-on from Lowe's or the local hardware store is just as strong for this application. I would try lacquer thinner to clean off the old covering and provide a good clean surface for the new adhesive. Needless to say, you need to have a REAL smooth sub-surface as any little bumps will transfer through the new cover. I heated the new vinyl cover by holding it in front of the Modine shop heater for just a few minutes, it is easy to tell when it is warm enough as it becomes twice a pliable as when cold. I trimmed and wrapped the covering around the speedo and tach holes, with no problems with installation later but you should test this ahead of time to be sure that it works for your dash. Be VERY careful with your trimming, it is better to leave too much and trim it off later than to have too little material to work with as you go around the many curves and corners of the dash frame. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 11 11:56:50 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:56:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] more under dash questions... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005701cb51da$b64867f0$0301a8c0@randall> > I have seen > pictures with both tubes (battery box and vent tray) going into a "Y" > connector just sticking above the trans tunnel draining into > one tube that > runs along the housing, is that the deal? I had a TR3A that was arranged that way, apparently from the factory. There was no hole in the blanking plate for the RH steering column either. But, it seems that the consensus is that the vent tray drain should stick through the blanking plate, and the battery drain goes down through the transmission tunnel. BTW, when driving in heavy rain, it is quite possible for rainwater to accumulate in the battery box, and hopefully find it's way down the drain. My more recent 3A had that drain blocked, and I found rainwater sloshing about several times. I suspect that having the area under the battery remain wet contributes to rapid rust (in addition of course to the effects of spilled battery acid). Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 11 12:14:12 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:14:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph In-Reply-To: <70EFF67CFA954C7B8F51F12CB7B094DA@BobPC> References: <70EFF67CFA954C7B8F51F12CB7B094DA@BobPC> Message-ID: <005b01cb51dd$235cfcf0$0301a8c0@randall> > Are the quick lube guys just > looking to pad the > profits? Or should ATF stay red even after 40K? IMO they are right. If it is discolored, it should be changed. Whether it should be discolored after only 40k is a different question. I would want to see (and smell) it for myself; if it is brownish and smells burned, you have a transmission problem that should be addressed sooner rather than later. Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Sep 11 12:37:34 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 14:37:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dash covering on later TR3s References: <4C8B8371.4010402@gmail.com><65A675D6D932453F82DA6A46D64A697E@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <0F52A33E2EB44B04B085A62BC4BBE0E9@Edscomputer> List, I know that the "early" TR3s and 3As had a vinyl dash covering that was glued on with clips on the edges for additional holding power, but wasn't this process abondoned on later TR3As in favor of a coating that's bonded to the metal panel? My '60 has such a dash. When was the change made? This bonded coating, by the way, is almost impossible to remove and duplicate, so perhaps covering it with a glued on vinyl like the earlier cars is the way to go. Ed Woods From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 11 12:47:45 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:47:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dash covering on later TR3s In-Reply-To: <0F52A33E2EB44B04B085A62BC4BBE0E9@Edscomputer> References: <4C8B8371.4010402@gmail.com><65A675D6D932453F82DA6A46D64A697E@valued9cfc0b6f> <0F52A33E2EB44B04B085A62BC4BBE0E9@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <006601cb51e1$d3073ef0$0301a8c0@randall> > but wasn't > this process abondoned on later TR3As in favor of a coating > that's bonded to > the metal panel? My '60 has such a dash. When was the change > made? I believe it was at, or at least close to, TS60,000. Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Sep 11 13:01:37 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 14:01:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?ATF_Fluid=2E=2E=2E=2E=2E_non_Triumph?= Message-ID: <20100911190039.C70C5187660@autox.team.net> If its brown have it changed. Heat does that to atf, and a filter and fluid change is a hell of a lot cheaper than a tranny. Btw, 40k is a good long life for atf. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Randall" Date: Sat, Sep 11, 2010 13:14 Subject: [TR] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph To: > Are the quick lube guys just > looking to pad the > profits? Or should ATF stay red even after 40K? IMO they are right. If it is discolored, it should be changed. Whether it should be discolored after only 40k is a different question. I would want to see (and smell) it for myself; if it is brownish and smells burned, you have a transmission problem that should be addressed sooner rather than later. Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Sep 11 13:36:40 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 15:36:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph In-Reply-To: <20100911190039.C70C5187660@autox.team.net> References: <20100911190039.C70C5187660@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <223DE0AED5044652BA5C2AE3472A2B98@BobPC> Thank you everybody for your responses. I guess I best have it checked out and get the fluid changed. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Randall" > Date: Sat, Sep 11, 2010 13:14 > Subject: [TR] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph > To: > >> Are the quick lube guys just >> looking to pad the >> profits? Or should ATF stay red even after 40K? > > IMO they are right. If it is discolored, it should be changed. > > Whether it should be discolored after only 40k is a different question. I > would want to see (and smell) it for myself; if it is brownish and smells > burned, you have a transmission problem that should be addressed sooner > rather than later. > > Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 11 13:38:30 2010 From: miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net (Miscuse1) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 15:38:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A starter motor Message-ID: <000001cb51e8$ea9a62c0$bfcf2840$@net> Hello, I peeked inside my 3A long nose starter today. On the brush end, I found a piece of paper in there. It wraps almost all the way around the inside of the yoke. I am curious as what is it for and how should it fit? It was slightly wedged behind the field coils a bit but yet not so far as to partially block the two openings through which you see the brushes. I'm sure it vibrated around from its original installation until the stuck the way I found it. It is almost the same width of the brush cover band. Also, does anybody have 'I wish I knew that before I started' tips to share on restoring one of these beasts? Thanks, From dwillner at ptd.net Sat Sep 11 14:23:28 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 16:23:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dash covering on later TR3s References: <4C8B8371.4010402@gmail.com><65A675D6D932453F82DA6A46D64A697E@valued9cfc0b6f> <0F52A33E2EB44B04B085A62BC4BBE0E9@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <6C7A12F0E94B4FEB80949E89D6B6453F@valued9cfc0b6f> I'm thinking if an "industrial strenth" contact cement won't bond a scuffed up post 60K "coated" dash, then I may try and find an earlier dash on on eBay, strip it, and try the vinyl cover... Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A (TS65107) 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 2:37 PM Subject: [TR] Dash covering on later TR3s > List, > > I know that the "early" TR3s and 3As had a vinyl dash covering that was > glued on with clips on the edges for additional holding power, but wasn't > this process abondoned on later TR3As in favor of a coating that's bonded > to the metal panel? My '60 has such a dash. When was the change made? This > bonded coating, by the way, is almost impossible to remove and duplicate, > so perhaps covering it with a glued on vinyl like the earlier cars is the > way to go. > > Ed Woods From elliottr at rmi.net Sat Sep 11 14:23:36 2010 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 15:23:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Powder Coating Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8BE548.4010200@rmi.net> Thanks Everyone for the input on powder coating a water pump. I thought it was probably not a good idea. Everyone pretty much agreed with that. I don't access to UV powder coating, so I am going to leave it alone. I do appreciate the mention that it is almost too slick. I have taped off the end of the outlet. Thanks again. Roger Elliott >> It would be much easier to do that with it off the car than on >> it. as an option you could mask off 1" or so of that outlet. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 11 14:55:39 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 13:55:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A starter motor In-Reply-To: <000001cb51e8$ea9a62c0$bfcf2840$@net> References: <000001cb51e8$ea9a62c0$bfcf2840$@net> Message-ID: <256101cb51f3$b3f546d0$1bdfd470$@rr.com> > I am curious as what is it for and how should it > fit? If it's what I'm thinking of, it is insulation/protection for the field windings. I would leave it alone, unless they are shorted (or you plan to replace them anyway). -- Randall From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sat Sep 11 18:23:31 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:23:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 top front lip stiffener rods In-Reply-To: References: <4C8B97AB.9020408@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <4C8C1D83.1060208@blacksburg.net> On 9/11/2010 4:00 PM, Chris Simo wrote: > I bought my top from TRF and they provided the stiffners with the > top. Are you sure they aren't still in the box or somewhere? Not in the box, unfortunately. When I called TRF he made no mention of the stiffeners being included w/the top, nor did he offer to send 'em when stock was replenished. I finally got around to opening the carpet kit last weekend (I know, 15 years after purchase is a bit extreme). To compound my aggravation w/TRF, the carpet which covers the rear "seat" was missing. They didn't offer to send another but fortunately I can have one made locally. > they are thin 1/2 wide stainless stirips. two on each ends are like 6 > inches or soand the center is 20 inches or so. > my top still comes out - but only 3 times in 14 years... but I rarely > put up the top. Tonneaus rule! > > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From zoboherald at aol.com Sat Sep 11 22:05:24 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 00:05:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dash covering on later TR3s In-Reply-To: <0F52A33E2EB44B04B085A62BC4BBE0E9@Edscomputer> References: <4C8B8371.4010402@gmail.com><65A675D6D932453F82DA6A46D64A697E@valued9cfc0b6f> <0F52A33E2EB44B04B085A62BC4BBE0E9@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <8CD2046DC2853B2-149C-16BB8@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com> Good question, Ed. I always kinda thought that the later dashes had vinyl covering, but the vinyl was just that: only vinyl with no cloth backing as is usually found in upholstery vinyl. Seems to me that might make it easier to fit (or possibly even mold with heat and/or vacuum forming?) to the curved metal. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Ed Woods B I know that the "early" TR3s and 3As had a vinyl dash covering that was glued on with clips on the edges for additional holding power, but wasn't this process abondoned on later TR3As in favor of a coating that's bonded to the metal panel? My '60 has such a dash. When was the change made? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 11 22:25:34 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 21:25:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dash covering on later TR3s In-Reply-To: <8CD2046DC2853B2-149C-16BB8@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com> References: <4C8B8371.4010402@gmail.com><65A675D6D932453F82DA6A46D64A697E@valued9cfc0b6f><0F52A33E2EB44B04B085A62BC4BBE0E9@Edscomputer> <8CD2046DC2853B2-149C-16BB8@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <012301cb5232$8b391ed0$0301a8c0@randall> > Good question, Ed. I always kinda thought that the later dashes had > vinyl covering, but the vinyl was just that: only vinyl with no cloth > backing as is usually found in upholstery vinyl. The late 3A I parted out once certainly seemed to have the dash covering molded to the dash. Absolutely no wrinkles, or flaps where it had been cut and pulled around the edge. And it was stuck to the metal MUCH more firmly than the earlier coverings were. Even a razor blade would not peel it off evenly. No clips on the edges either (or need for them), which is a marked contrast to all my earlier dashes. Randall From don at napanet.net Sun Sep 12 01:44:37 2010 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 00:44:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Peter Egan articles Message-ID: <20100912074446.23528AE688@mail.dsl.napanet.net> The latest Peter Egan articles in the new R&T are great reads for anyone interested in old British sports cars. As usual, Peter's writings are the best thing in the magazine. http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/dog-years-and-englishmen http://www.roadandtrack.com/special-feature/heart-of-gold-electrics-by-lucas Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars From Chip19474 at aol.com Sun Sep 12 08:58:04 2010 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 10:58:04 EDT Subject: [TR] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph Message-ID: Bob, My experiences with ATF are that it will change from "new" red to a darker red over time and that's normal but if it changes to a more black shade it indicates that either it's been running hotter than the engineered, normal heat range and has degraded or it's showing signs of internal seal/gasket breakdown.....or both! In either case, I think it's a wise recommendation to change it and the filter. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 9/11/2010 10:13:55 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Are the quick lube guys just looking to pad the profits? Or should ATF stay red even after 40K? From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Sep 12 09:28:15 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 11:28:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] more under dash questions... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901cb528f$1fe20c20$5fa62460$@net> Dave - There is a hole on the driver's side of the tranny cover. I don't know of any other use for it. I purchased a length of the hose; routed it behind the heater; under the carpet and out the hole. A 'Y' or even a 'T' in the battery drain would work as well. If I were doing it, I think I would try the 'T' right at the fitting under the battery and then add some extra length to the hose so that it feeds out below the tranny rather than on top of it. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 11:44 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] more under dash questions... Does anyone know where the vent tray drain tube should drain too? I have seen pictures with both tubes (battery box and vent tray) going into a "Y" connector just sticking above the trans tunnel draining into one tube that runs along the housing, is that the deal? Thanks Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From dbyam at tds.net Sun Sep 12 13:49:24 2010 From: dbyam at tds.net (dbyam tds.net) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 15:49:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dash Covering on TR-3 Message-ID: I had a 'TCF" TR-3 that had the 'molded covering" which, in turn, was covered by Vinyl to change the color to Black! I bought the car from the original owner and he stated that the interior trim had never been changed. A lot of weird changes can be found on those later cars that were evidently assembled from left-over bit and pieces. Doug From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Sep 12 18:06:59 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:06:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A (Late) Fuse Box placement Message-ID: <000d01cb52d7$98503270$c8f09750$@net> >From my pictures it appears that the fuse box is positioned so that wires feed from top and bottom. It also looks like the extra spade set faces up. I would appreciate someone confirming this before I started connecting all of the wires. Not going to get the loom in this weekend.. but that is next.. Thanks in advance for the help Carl Still looking at NATC-Jekyll Island completion date.. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Sep 12 18:08:32 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:08:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A (Late) Fuse Box placement Message-ID: <001201cb52d7$ce05bd40$6a1137c0$@net> Resending as Plain Text - not HTML.... >From my pictures it appears that the fuse box is positioned so that wires feed from top and bottom. It also looks like the extra spade set faces up. I would appreciate someone confirming this before I started connecting all of the wires. Not going to get the loom in this weekend.. but that is next. Thanks in advance for the help Carl Still looking at NATC-Jekyll Island completion date. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Sep 12 20:51:57 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 19:51:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 dash cover.. Message-ID: <168980.52870.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> covering my 3 dash is still too far off and i've not even looked at it. Too far out........ so i'm in no place to give advice........lol............but i'm wondering how using an angle grinder with a knotty wire brush would work taking off old adhesive/vynl? Pretty aggressive I know but i've seen what this can do to old paint/rust............just wondering. gary n. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Sep 12 21:11:15 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 23:11:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr-3 dash cover.. In-Reply-To: <168980.52870.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <168980.52870.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2724F8981FD14D628E955B586531987D@CarlPC> I'd be careful with that approach. any imperfections left on/in the metal may be obvious when the vinyl is glued/stretched. industrial strength vinyl remover should get it off. Just let it soak a bit. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Nafziger" To: Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:51 PM Subject: [TR] tr-3 dash cover.. > covering my 3 dash is still too far off and i've not even looked at it. > Too far > out........ so i'm in no place to give advice........lol............but > i'm > wondering how using an angle grinder with a knotty wire brush would work > taking > off old adhesive/vynl? Pretty aggressive I know but i've seen what this > can do > to old paint/rust............just wondering. > > > gary n. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From wbeech at flash.net Sun Sep 12 21:57:52 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 21:57:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] tr-3 dash cover.. In-Reply-To: <2724F8981FD14D628E955B586531987D@CarlPC> References: <168980.52870.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <2724F8981FD14D628E955B586531987D@CarlPC> Message-ID: <37BCD3B6A1E54533AE5B03CAB4E6DD35@bboffice> I'm sure a 10 minute soak in some fresh lacquer thinner would do the job as well. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 9:11 PM To: Gary Nafziger; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 dash cover.. I'd be careful with that approach. any imperfections left on/in the metal may be obvious when the vinyl is glued/stretched. industrial strength vinyl remover should get it off. Just let it soak a bit. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Nafziger" To: Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:51 PM Subject: [TR] tr-3 dash cover.. > covering my 3 dash is still too far off and i've not even looked at it. > Too far > out........ so i'm in no place to give advice........lol............but > i'm > wondering how using an angle grinder with a knotty wire brush would work > taking > off old adhesive/vynl? Pretty aggressive I know but i've seen what this > can do > to old paint/rust............just wondering. > > > gary n. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 13 03:49:24 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 05:49:24 EDT Subject: [TR] tr-3 dash cover.. Message-ID: In a message dated 9/12/2010 9:52:06 PM Central Daylight Time, nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: > covering my 3 dash is still too far off and i've not even looked at it. > Too far > out........ so i'm in no place to give advice........lol............but > i'm > wondering how using an angle grinder with a knotty wire brush would work > taking > off old adhesive/vynl? Pretty aggressive I know but i've seen what this > can do > to old paint/rust............just wondering. > > I put my center gauge panel in the powder coat oven at 450 F for an hour or so and the adhesive that was still on there came off easily in the sand blast booth. But you'd need a pizza oven for the main dash panel. Dave From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 10:37:37 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 09:37:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 dash cover.. In-Reply-To: <2724F8981FD14D628E955B586531987D@CarlPC> References: <168980.52870.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <2724F8981FD14D628E955B586531987D@CarlPC> Message-ID: <707737.24892.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> take it and have it media blasted. should cost you about 30.00 frank ________________________________ From: Carl TR To: Gary Nafziger ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, September 12, 2010 8:11:15 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 dash cover.. I'd be careful with that approach. any imperfections left on/in the metal may be obvious when the vinyl is glued/stretched. industrial strength vinyl remover should get it off. Just let it soak a bit. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Nafziger" To: Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:51 PM Subject: [TR] tr-3 dash cover.. > covering my 3 dash is still too far off and i've not even looked at it. Too far > out........ so i'm in no place to give advice........lol............but i'm > wondering how using an angle grinder with a knotty wire brush would work taking > off old adhesive/vynl? Pretty aggressive I know but i've seen what this can do > to old paint/rust............just wondering. > > > gary n. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tbe749 at aol.com Mon Sep 13 11:31:26 2010 From: tbe749 at aol.com (Tom) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 13:31:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: 1960-61 TR3 References: <9A58C8633871444DB3C731FEC0DC2F0C@G1099848785> Message-ID: Anyone interested in this 3 located in illinois. please contact Jane not me. Car is red. Asking 10k. Tom Sent from my iPhone Begin forwarded message: > From: "Jane Barclay" > Date: September 12, 2010 10:28:15 PM EDT > To: "'Tom'" > Subject: RE: 1960-61 TR3 > Reply-To: > > Hi Tom, > > Thank you that would be wonderful!! > > Jane > > From: Tom [mailto:tbe749 at aol.com] > Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 3:58 PM > To: > Subject: Re: 1960-61 TR3 > > > Hi Jane sorry to hear about your father. I do not know of anyone at the present time. I can forward to a triumph email list if you want? > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 11, 2010, at 1:26 PM, "Jane Barclay" wrote: > >> Hi Tom, >> >> I found your name on the Triumph Club site. My Dad was a member of the Triumph club in St. Louis, MO. He passed away this July and we are trying to sell his 1960-61 TR3. The car was in the end stages of restoration and is complete other than the top and some upholstery work. We have all of the parts and we are trying to sell the car. The car is located in southern IL in Pinckneyville, IL near Carbondale. >> >> Would you know of anyone looking for a TR3 of this era? >> >> I am sorry to bother you with this; however, we want to help our Mother sell this vehicle in the near future. >> >> Any help would be greatly appreciated. >> >> Jane Mann Barclay >> 773-771-9326 cell >> 773-445-9326 home From mcmeganutt at aol.com Mon Sep 13 12:17:47 2010 From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:17:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thank you from CT Triumph Register Message-ID: <8CD21871A78B5D9-FB0-445@webmail-d083.sysops.aol.com> Thank you to all who helped make the 30th Annual CT Triumph Registers British Motorcar Gathering and Picnic a great success. Hope to see you there again next year. Best regards, Fred McNutt www.CTRiumph.com From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Mon Sep 13 12:22:57 2010 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:22:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Dash Covering on TR-3 Message-ID: <6f2be.6279e6aa.39bfc601@aol.com> FWIW, I have one of the later, moulded, dash panels in black hanging in the garage. EC. If interested contact me off line. Thanks Sam Clark From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 12:37:00 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 11:37:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] car shows and events Message-ID: <149246.69752.qm@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> may i make a suggestion to all of you who are active in organizing car shows and events? please add a street address to your literature. it makes it so much easier for punching it into a GPS. even if its a fake address that gets one within eye sight of the event. we have 4 events coming up locally in the next 60 days and i have had a heck of a time getting real addresses. you may know the crystal palace and how wonderful the place is, and every one else in you town knows where it is. but those coming from out of town are often not so fortunate. just my suggestion Frank From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Sep 13 13:00:28 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:00:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shameless Plug Message-ID: <3CA453DD909B42288B2142F7AC65AB7A@Edscomputer> List, I'm trying to thin my collection of TR stuff and, consequently have two 'A' type overdrive transmissions on Ebay, a TR6, Ebay auction no. 120620947274 and a TR3, Ebay auctions no. 120620959864. If you have any questions, please contact me off list. Ed Woods From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Sep 13 13:39:12 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:39:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss Message-ID: Hi Guys, I took the TR6 south to Oxford, OH for the 6-PACK Trials last week, probably less 600 miles total. The Trials were great. The Six had a few issues. The first was a low RPM miss that caused her to chug some when accelerating. Usually in 3rd or 4th with OD engaged but not always. She would chug some regardless of speed but usually below 2500 rpm's. Once above that she seemed happier with only a few chugs. Not enough of a problem to leave me on the side of the road but very annoying. So I pulled the Bosch Platinum WR7dp plugs : #1 thru 4 look reddish brown, #5 is brown & #6 is bright white. I must be sucking in some air back there, Huh? From the manifold gasket? I hate to just start ripping into that w/o the wisdom of the List but the bright white is an indicater of a lean condition in that cylinder, correct? What else could it be? The Six also got very hot once when I let her idle for 5 minutes which would confirm a lean condition. I have had this problem before with the Six and also the TR250. Seems like they both want to blow up manifold gaskets. What am I doing wrong? I have tried the method of putting two gaskets on back to back. I forget which way they go it's been so long. I only have one on now. Any Tips are appreciated, Darrell From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 13 13:55:06 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:55:06 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss Message-ID: <5b0ba.7b065aa2.39bfdb9a@cs.com> In a message dated 9/13/2010 2:39:33 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > I took the TR6 south to Oxford, OH for the 6-PACK Trials last week, > probably less 600 miles total. The Trials were great. The Six had a few > issues. > The first was a low RPM miss that caused her to chug some when > accelerating. Usually in 3rd or 4th with OD engaged but not always. She > would chug > some regardless of speed but usually below 2500 rpm's. Once above that > she > seemed happier with only a few chugs. Not enough of a problem to leave me > > on the side of the road but very annoying. > My TR6 had more of a stumble. This was many years ago. I regapped the plugs and it went away. I see you have those Bosch things and regapping may not be an option but maybe some new plugs will give different results. More recently (last week, actually) I had what sounded like a miss. For some reason I decided to check my valve clearances and found two valves had no gap at all. (valve seat recession?) I regapped the valves and the miss went away. There's a couple of Ideas. Dave From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Sep 13 16:02:33 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:02:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Photo of heater brackets needed Message-ID: <532A2AAE257E416088933DFC6B6D55C4@valued9cfc0b6f> Does anyone have a good clear under dash photo or two showing the heater and brackets as well as the ash tray bracket all assembled they can send me offline? I think my sketches went out with the trash yesterday...Thanks Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Sep 13 16:03:36 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 22:03:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1247939857.758891.1284415416986.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >The Six had a few issues. >The first was a low RPM miss that caused her to chug some when >accelerating. What does troubleshooting SOP of checking for spark at the plug and working backward show? Strong spark getting to the cylinder in the first place? If so, then it's fuel or air. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Sep 13 16:15:26 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:15:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A (Late) Fuse Box placement In-Reply-To: References: <001201cb52d7$ce05bd40$6a1137c0$@net> Message-ID: Thanks Tom - more detail than I expected but will be extremely helpful when I start connecting the wiring. The '3 may still make it to Jekyll Island. great progress this past weekend. Of course, I am not sure if the roundtrip from Tampa should be the break-in miles.... :O) Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "THOMAS FANSHER" To: Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 3:00 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A (Late) Fuse Box placement From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 13 16:21:36 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:21:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph In-Reply-To: <822094912.683143.1284405135671.JavaMail.root@sz0105a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <822094912.683143.1284405135671.JavaMail.root@sz0105a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Very interesting..........Time to learn something new about ATF. I just went and checked, again, and the color is a brownish/translucent color which I was automatically assuming was black seeing as it wasn't red. The AT dipstick is also marked "ATF-MV" and according to Mazda, their ATF-MV is the equivalent to Mecron V. And the dipstick opening is so small that you couldn't add fluid from there. A little Googling turns up all sorts of confusion in the Mazda Forums about ATF fluid and compatibility with Mecron V i.e. be careful what you mix with it as you mismatching ATF fluids can damage the tranny. Reminds me of brake fluid confusion on the Mail Lists. And......... Mazda does not specify any ATF service interval. None the less, I'll give the service manager a call tomorrow. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From: luichinger at comcast.net Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 3:12 PM To: Bob Danielson Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6 pack Subject: Re: [6pack] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph Bob Not sure about 07 but 09 Mazda3 do not have red colored ATF installed at the plant. They use a brownish to translucent colored ATF that meets mercron V spec.. My daughter ran into the same issue with a quick change outfit and got me involved because her owners manual said nothing about changing the fluid. Check the fluid yourself. take some off the dipstick put it on a clean white towel. If it appears clear with a golden to light brown hue and it dose not smell burnt it is most likely fine. If it smells burn the clutch packs have been damaged and changing fluid is not likely to help unless you plan on quickly passing the problem on to some one else. IMHO the the oil change boys made an honest mistake or you need to find someone else. A fluid change at these shops or any shop can be risky.. The machine may not get maintained and most people do nothing untill something happens which means there is a lot of crap that can be transfered from the last fluid replacement to your trans. If its not broke do not fix it applies here. If you have to do it have it done manually. From wayne at brazinski.com Mon Sep 13 16:33:45 2010 From: wayne at brazinski.com (Wayne Brazinski) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 17:33:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi all, It has literally been years since I sent a note in, but I have been following the list from time to time in stealth mode. I have been converting my '58 TR3 to Ford 302 V8 power (the numbers never matched!!) and will be adding floor mounted dual circuit brakes from Tilton - with US pipe threads. I am in the process of mounting the pedals and am concerned about plumbing in. I have replaced the short flexible lengths of TR brake line on all four corners with new stainless braided brake line and want to run the rest as new pipe with US threads. Can this be done do you think? Thanks a bunch for your time. Wayne Plainfield, IL From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 13 17:15:52 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 16:15:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <05e101cb5399$9cd13890$0301a8c0@randall> > Seems > like they both want to blow up manifold gaskets. What am I > doing wrong? Here are some general tips that might help: Make sure all surfaces are flat to within a .001" or so. I like to lightly rub a flat file on them, as it will pick up any high spots (and it's surprising how often I find one). A carpenter's straight edge (or level) will do for checking longer distances. Check that the nuts spin easily all the way down the threaded portion of the stud. If they bind partway down the threads, that stud is damaged and should be replaced. New lockwashers, every time. Make sure the intake manifold fits over the locating dowels. A trial fit without the gaskets might be a good idea, to check that both manifolds can fit against the head. (On the TRactor motor, the exhaust manifold sometimes fouls on the engine block, but that probably wouldn't apply to the 6-pot.) I don't recall offhand if the 6 cylinder engines have the manifolds bolted together as the 4-bangers do, but if so I would suggest removing those bolts. Make sure the bridge pieces are in the proper places, and turned the way they belong. On the outermost studs without a bridge piece, I find it helps to use a heavy flat washer (sometimes known as a setup washer) between the lockwasher and manifold. Recheck all the manifold nuts after the engine has been run and allowed to cool a few times, plus at every tune-up. HTH Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 13 20:22:44 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:22:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <063601cb53b3$b7728c20$0301a8c0@randall> > I have replaced the short > flexible lengths of > TR brake line on all four corners with new stainless braided > brake line I'm not sure I understand the question. The original TR3 setup only has 3 flexible lines, the rear wheels have hard lines connected directly to the wheel cylinders. Unless you replace the rear wheel cylinders, whatever hard line you install must have nuts with the extended unthreaded tip like the originals, otherwise it won't seal properly to the rear cylinders. I'm not sure about the tee connector on the rear axle, but I wouldn't be surprised if it requires the extended tips as well. OTOH, it's unlikely you are using the original rear axle, so ??? Randall From wayne at brazinski.com Mon Sep 13 22:09:33 2010 From: wayne at brazinski.com (Wayne Brazinski) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 23:09:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question In-Reply-To: <063601cb53b3$b7728c20$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: You are correct as usual Randall, and sorry for the poor description. I just hopped under the car to refresh my memory. So the front calipers and consolidated rear drums present 3 male connectors that match the type provided on the original vehicle. I will need to re-plumb the braking system so the rear drums go to a single master cylinder and the fronts go to the second master cylinder - thus creating redundancy in the event of a failure in either circuit. If I use the regular copper nickel line sets we would normally use I will have to change the British male fitting where it connects the USA Master Cylinder. If I use USA piping I will have to produce a female that will connect to the 3 British Male Connectors. So I guess my real question is - is there a piping kit or toolset that would allow me to make brake pipe sets with the different ends on? THANKS!! Wayne On 9/13/10 9:22 PM, "Randall" wrote: > > >> I have replaced the short >> flexible lengths of >> TR brake line on all four corners with new stainless braided >> brake line > > I'm not sure I understand the question. The original TR3 setup only has 3 > flexible lines, the rear wheels have hard lines connected directly to the > wheel cylinders. Unless you replace the rear wheel cylinders, whatever hard > line you install must have nuts with the extended unthreaded tip like the > originals, otherwise it won't seal properly to the rear cylinders. I'm not > sure about the tee connector on the rear axle, but I wouldn't be surprised > if it requires the extended tips as well. > > OTOH, it's unlikely you are using the original rear axle, so ??? > > Randall From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Sep 14 08:59:22 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 07:59:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] At Retreat - Favorite Cars Message-ID: <357790.27565.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> My church had a men's retreat to Ojai, CA last weekend. We had a lot of new guys and during intros (to get guys talking) they asked each guy to state his favorite car that he's owned. We had 40 guys and out of the 40 we had four guys say their LBC's were there favorites. We had a TR2, a TR3 (mine), a TR4 and a MGA. All guys praised the same qualities of the cars - sporty driving, simple mechanicals, etc.. Glad to see the LBC's were represented. Interestingly enough, lots of the guys struggling financially raising families said their favorite cars (which most still were driving) were Japanese cars that they bought used and hadn't need repairs. Some shallow guys tried to impress others with tales of muscle cars as their favorites. A few oldies liked their '51 Mercury's and post war cars from a more halcyon time of young marriages and new prosperity. I saw a blue TR6 driving into Ojai and a baby blue TR3A on the 126 highway driving towards Ventura. Were they anyone from the list? Bill in Tehachapi From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Tue Sep 14 09:20:36 2010 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 08:20:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F116AE6C6@kb1.mossmotors.com> I had a similar problem with my '71 many years ago. It would miss and stumble and when I checked, sure enough the manifold gasket was blown. Actually it looked like it had been pushed off center, and torn. My fix was to pull the intake manifold and have it surfaced flat. I also changed all the split washers - they will not hold correctly even at what looks like correct torque if they have lost their spring. I also now use one of the upgraded manifold gaskets. Plus as Randall said, check to make sure everything is aligned and holding where it should. Haven't had a problem since. Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Sep 14 09:30:53 2010 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:30:53 EDT Subject: [TR] Random TR250 Story Message-ID: <649d4.47d534fa.39c0ef2d@aol.com> List, Another "small world" Triumph story......one day towards the end of our family vacation in Cape May, NJ (seashore resort on the New Jersey coast) two weeks ago, with all of the family already on the beach, I decided to take a walk with my 1 year old grandson from our house to the beach (about 1 1/2 blocks) after his afternoon nap. The crowds at the beach thin out towards Labor Day so as I walked out the front door and looked up the road there wasn't a car in sight except this Jasmine TR250 parked in a driveway of one the stately old circa 1900 homes. So, I told my grandson that we had to check this out and that there might be a slight delay arriving on the beach if I got to talking to the owner! Turns out that the homeowner and his wife were storing some outdoor furniture in preparation for some wind from an approaching hurricane and we struck up a conversation. Great story....he bought the car new, has 180,000 miles on it (second engine) and has never hesitated driving it anywhere. So, of course, we shared stories and swapped tales of experiences......that is until my grandson got so squirmy that we had to move on. I doubt whether "Charlie" (grandson) understood the camaraderie taking place but it was good fun anyway:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U From pethier at comcast.net Tue Sep 14 11:13:47 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 17:13:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] car shows and events In-Reply-To: <149246.69752.qm@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1380507010.19356.1284484427805.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> You are right on the button, Frank! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Frank Fisher" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 1:37:00 PM > Subject: [TR] car shows and events > > may i make a suggestion to all of you who are active in organizing car > shows > and > events? > please add a street address to your literature. it makes it so > much easier for > punching it into a GPS. even if its a fake address that gets > one within eye > sight of the event. > we have 4 events coming up locally in the > next 60 days and i have had a heck of > a time getting real addresses. > you may > know the crystal palace and how wonderful the place is, and every one > > else in > you town knows where it is. but those coming from out of town are > often > not > so fortunate. > just my suggestion > Frank From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Sep 14 13:33:01 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 15:33:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss Message-ID: <1f2a8.3ff1d639.39c127ed@aol.com> In a message dated 9/13/2010 3:55:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: . For some reason I decided to check my valve clearances and found two valves had no gap at all. (valve seat recession?) I regapped the valves and the miss went away. Thanks Dave and all that responded. I was and am concerned that the Six needs a valve job. 45,000 miles on the clock still a factory build. I will start with the propane to find a vacuum leak then on to the valves for adjustment. I suppose a problem with the valves would show up on a compression test. Exhaust valve recession would cause a lean condition, correct? Anyway I was not aware of the Moss Hi-Performance gaskets and just ordered two of them. Hope it's something simple, I have the Six registered for the VTR National Convention on Jekyll Island in a few weeks since the TR6 is the featured marque. Always something! I suppose I can take another car. Ugly, the 76 VE Edition TR7, comes to mind. I bet those southern folks would get a kick out of them Spoker Rims on her. Of course she autox's like a pig. Oh well easy class to run in too. Darrell From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Sep 14 13:51:18 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 19:51:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss In-Reply-To: <1f2a8.3ff1d639.39c127ed@aol.com> Message-ID: <1454372082.1603072.1284493878054.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I resemble that remark.......and am looking forward to seeing everyone at Jekyll Island. It's quite the venue and should be a great time. Tom Fansher taking one of the 3's and the red Stag I bet those southern folks would get a kick out of them Spoker Rims on her. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 14 13:58:29 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 12:58:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss In-Reply-To: <1f2a8.3ff1d639.39c127ed@aol.com> References: <1f2a8.3ff1d639.39c127ed@aol.com> Message-ID: <29fc01cb5447$34354a70$9c9fdf50$@rr.com> > Exhaust valve recession would cause a lean condition, correct? The main symptom of valve recession is that the valve clearances are always too tight. My experience was that it did not affect the running of the engine very much, until the valve ran out of clearance (which definitely made it run lousy). -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 14 14:07:46 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 13:07:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question In-Reply-To: References: <063601cb53b3$b7728c20$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <29fd01cb5448$80d7dcc0$82879640$@rr.com> > So I guess my real question is - is there a piping kit or toolset that > would > allow me to make brake pipe sets with the different ends on? I don't even know of a "piping set" that would accomplish what you are doing, even if you used British MCs. However, it is relatively easy to "roll your own" brake plumbing, especially with the Cunifer (copper alloy) lines. You'll need a supply of line, of course, some suitable nuts, and a brake line flaring tool. One source of line & nuts is: http://store.fedhillusa.com/14tubingandnuts.aspx and I see they offer a rental tool as well. You might also check with your FLAPS. I know Kragen Auto Parts used to offer a brake flaring tool for loan, but I don't know if O'Reilly has the same policy or not. At Kragen, you would basically pay full price for a used tool, but then you could bring it back for a full refund, making it free to use. -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 14 14:21:59 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 13:21:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question In-Reply-To: <29fd01cb5448$80d7dcc0$82879640$@rr.com> References: <063601cb53b3$b7728c20$0301a8c0@randall> <29fd01cb5448$80d7dcc0$82879640$@rr.com> Message-ID: <519805.92655.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> same deal with autozone frank ________________________________ From: Randall To: Wayne Brazinski ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, September 14, 2010 1:07:46 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question > So I guess my real question is - is there a piping kit or toolset that > would > allow me to make brake pipe sets with the different ends on? I don't even know of a "piping set" that would accomplish what you are doing, even if you used British MCs. However, it is relatively easy to "roll your own" brake plumbing, especially with the Cunifer (copper alloy) lines. You'll need a supply of line, of course, some suitable nuts, and a brake line flaring tool. One source of line & nuts is: http://store.fedhillusa.com/14tubingandnuts.aspx and I see they offer a rental tool as well. You might also check with your FLAPS. I know Kragen Auto Parts used to offer a brake flaring tool for loan, but I don't know if O'Reilly has the same policy or not. At Kragen, you would basically pay full price for a used tool, but then you could bring it back for a full refund, making it free to use. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Sep 14 15:29:08 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 17:29:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question In-Reply-To: <519805.92655.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <063601cb53b3$b7728c20$0301a8c0@randall> <29fd01cb5448$80d7dcc0$82879640$@rr.com> <519805.92655.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: and Advanced auto (used to be discount). I don't think NAPA has joined the bandwagon. They also have tubing benders; pulley pullers; etc etc Great source for those once in while tools. C ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2010 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question > same deal with autozone > frank > > > > > ________________________________ > From: > Randall > To: Wayne Brazinski ; > triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, September 14, 2010 1:07:46 PM > Subject: Re: > [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question > >> So I guess my real question is - is > there a piping kit or toolset that >> would >> allow me to make brake pipe sets > with the different ends on? > > I don't even know of a "piping set" that would > accomplish what you are > doing, even if you used British MCs. > > However, it is > relatively easy to "roll your own" brake plumbing, especially > with the Cunifer > (copper alloy) lines. You'll need a supply of line, of > course, some suitable > nuts, and a brake line flaring tool. One source of > line & nuts is: > http://store.fedhillusa.com/14tubingandnuts.aspx > and I see they offer a rental > tool as well. > > You might also check with your FLAPS. I know Kragen Auto Parts > used to > offer a brake flaring tool for loan, but I don't know if O'Reilly has > the > same policy or not. At Kragen, you would basically pay full price for a > used tool, but then you could bring it back for a full refund, making it > free > to use. > > -- Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested > annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From wayne at brazinski.com Tue Sep 14 16:25:13 2010 From: wayne at brazinski.com (Wayne Brazinski) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 17:25:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This is awesome - thanks very much you guys. I have no problem rolling my own and this site will work great. Hopefully I'll be able to send you a link to pics of the finished car soon :) Wayne On 9/14/10 4:29 PM, "Carl TR" wrote: > and Advanced auto (used to be discount). I don't think NAPA has joined the > bandwagon. They also have tubing benders; pulley pullers; etc etc Great > source for those once in while tools. > > C > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Frank Fisher" > To: "Randall" > Cc: > Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2010 4:21 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question > > >> same deal with autozone >> frank >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: >> Randall >> To: Wayne Brazinski ; >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Tue, September 14, 2010 1:07:46 PM >> Subject: Re: >> [TR] Quick TR3 Brake Line Question >> >>> So I guess my real question is - is >> there a piping kit or toolset that >>> would >>> allow me to make brake pipe sets >> with the different ends on? >> >> I don't even know of a "piping set" that would >> accomplish what you are >> doing, even if you used British MCs. >> >> However, it is >> relatively easy to "roll your own" brake plumbing, especially >> with the Cunifer >> (copper alloy) lines. You'll need a supply of line, of >> course, some suitable >> nuts, and a brake line flaring tool. One source of >> line & nuts is: >> http://store.fedhillusa.com/14tubingandnuts.aspx >> and I see they offer a rental >> tool as well. >> >> You might also check with your FLAPS. I know Kragen Auto Parts >> used to >> offer a brake flaring tool for loan, but I don't know if O'Reilly has >> the >> same policy or not. At Kragen, you would basically pay full price for a >> used tool, but then you could bring it back for a full refund, making it >> free >> to use. >> >> -- Randall >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested >> annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: >> http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at brazinski.com From jmitch at snet.net Tue Sep 14 20:16:35 2010 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 22:16:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire wheel question Message-ID: <4C902C83.7050603@snet.net> Hi, when changing tires on wire wheel rims, is it best to keep it's splined adapter paired with each wheel, or does it not matter. It's almost time for new tires. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Sep 14 20:30:52 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 21:30:52 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Rear gear box oil leak Message-ID: <635808138.101241.1284517852308.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> List, Heading off to the local British car shop for some repairs that I do not want to do mysef. 1972 Triumph TR6, leaking rear gearbox seal. It has been leaking all summer. The car is a second owner car, and has the same clutch since purchase 5 years ago. At that time, when the purchase inspection was done, I was told the fork had been "customized" and the clutch would be on my list. 5 years later, the clutch is still quiet, but I do have an issue getting it into first gear from a dead stop. Does not pop out of gear, no grinding. So, I am leaving it up to the shop to give me the scoop, a rear gearbox oil seal replacement for around $350, and if necessary, a total clutch job around $1100 (Don't laugh, this is the cheap shop in the big city, don't want to quote you the close shop price :). I keep hearing (even from the shop) that if the clutch is working and not causing an issue, I should replace the seal and move on with my life. Any thoughts from the list, I always appreciate your input. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Sep 14 22:21:31 2010 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 23:21:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Scuttle Lid Message-ID: <4FCE011A-3691-4073-910A-0A3B288C7BC5@genfiniti.com> Listers, What's the secret to getting the scuttle lid to lay flat over the seal? It appears as if the seal is too thick. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From wbeech at flash.net Tue Sep 14 23:08:11 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 23:08:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] Wire wheel question In-Reply-To: <4C902C83.7050603@snet.net> References: <4C902C83.7050603@snet.net> Message-ID: <8E2D13247ED748D5B87E4B3B0A79575E@bboffice> If everything is true, it should not matter, unless you are really serious about entering some high speed events. I had my adapters trued during restoration and they seem to be as near perfect as can be. I wish I could say the same for my older wire wheels, a new set is on the Christmas list! Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2010 8:17 PM To: 6-Pack; stag at digest.net; Triumph List Subject: [TR] Wire wheel question Hi, when changing tires on wire wheel rims, is it best to keep it's splined adapter paired with each wheel, or does it not matter. It's almost time for new tires. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 14 23:11:11 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 22:11:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear gear box oil leak In-Reply-To: <635808138.101241.1284517852308.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> References: <635808138.101241.1284517852308.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <08ad01cb5494$6a42b240$0301a8c0@randall> > Any thoughts from the list, I always appreciate your input. FWIW, I replaced the differential pinion seal in my TR3 last weekend, which I believe should be comparable to replacing the gearbox output seal on a TR6. That part of the job (I did some other things as well) took me less than 2 hours, and I work slow. Only special tool required is a length of iron bar from Home Depot, with a couple of holes drilled in it. Here's a shot of the bar (although using a different pair of holes) http://tinyurl.com/3y93c2g $350 for two hours of shop time plus an $11.98 seal is highway robbery. $1100 for a clutch job is even worse; but it doesn't sound to me like you need a clutch job. Most likely, just repairing the wear at the pivot between clutch pedal and MC is all it needs; but if that isn't enough, the braided SS clutch line from TSi should get you enough travel. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Sep 15 06:03:50 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:03:50 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A-Scuttle Lid Message-ID: <1677d3.54a954be.39c21026@cs.com> In a message dated 9/14/2010 11:21:52 PM Central Daylight Time, guy at genfiniti.com writes: > What's the secret to getting the scuttle lid to lay flat over the seal? > It appears as if the seal is too thick. > Phone book. Seriously, I have the same problem on my TR3 and if I open the hood with the vent "closed" I scrape paint. Removing the seal will fix it. Maybe a couple months with a weight (phone book) forcing the down will make the seal adopt a new profile. I have not yet decided to deal with it. Dave From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Sep 15 06:20:00 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:20:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Scuttle Lid In-Reply-To: <4FCE011A-3691-4073-910A-0A3B288C7BC5@genfiniti.com> References: <4FCE011A-3691-4073-910A-0A3B288C7BC5@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C650B0@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Guy, if that seal is anything like the one supplied for the TR6 it has to be seriously trimmed to allow the lid to fully close. I went through a few of them before I got one trimmed the right amount to let the lid close but keep water out. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Guy D. Huggins Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:22 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; RedRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com Subject: [TR] TR4A - Scuttle Lid Listers, What's the secret to getting the scuttle lid to lay flat over the seal? It appears as if the seal is too thick. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed Sep 15 06:23:40 2010 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 07:23:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E5B78A6@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> You could try to diagnose with a vacuum gauge: http://automotivemileposts.com/garage/vacuumgaugereadings.html or this one provides more detail around diagnosis scenarios: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm Brian From pethier at comcast.net Wed Sep 15 07:29:23 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 13:29:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wire wheel question In-Reply-To: <8E2D13247ED748D5B87E4B3B0A79575E@bboffice> Message-ID: <929714767.64896.1284557363852.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > they seem to be as near perfect as can be. I wish I > could > say the same for my older wire wheels, a new set is on the Christmas > list! Dayton, of course. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From agraham at execulink.com Wed Sep 15 08:30:17 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:30:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 lubrication questions Message-ID: <4C90D879.3030102@execulink.com> Hello LIst: Posting a couple of questions regarding lube for the trunions and steering box. Recall the discussions around using an oil for the trunions as opposed to a grease. Given today's synthetic greases, would these do a good job in the trunions? Just worried about the heavy "oil" running out of the trunions. Don't really look oil tight. Moving on to the steering box, would something like MT90 do the job here? Anything from a FLAPS work in this application? Looking for some recommendations. Thanks in advance for all your help. Angelo Graham From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Sep 15 08:49:34 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:49:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 lubrication questions In-Reply-To: <4C90D879.3030102@execulink.com> References: <4C90D879.3030102@execulink.com> Message-ID: <8CD22FC58BFF96B-1724-ACA9@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> The most logical explanation I've heard is essentially that the use of grease might tend to keep any dirt 'in suspension', while any such dirt might be more likely to settle out and therefore not be in constant contact with the moving parts. But modern greases are certainly much better than those of old; at least they don't dry out, etc. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Angelo Graham Hello LIst:B Posting a couple of questions regarding lube for the trunions and steering box. Recall the discussions around using an oil for the trunions as opposed to a grease. Given today's synthetic greases, would these do a good job in the trunions? Just worried about the heavy "oil" running out of the trunions. Don't really look oil tight.B From dkspence at telus.net Wed Sep 15 09:46:56 2010 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:46:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9CBACFED-C105-4DFD-8951-F603B33BE03A@telus.net> You might want to have a look at the cam lobes. As has been discussed here before, oil composition has changed with resultant premature wear of flat tappet cams due to a lack of specific additives. On 15-Sep-10, at 6:03 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: TR250Driver at aol.com > Date: September 14, 2010 1:33:01 PM MDT (CA) > To: Dave1massey at cs.com > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss > > > In a message dated 9/13/2010 3:55:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > Dave1massey at cs.com writes: > > . For > some reason I decided to check my valve clearances and found two > valves > had no > gap at all. (valve seat recession?) I regapped the valves and > the miss > went away. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Sep 15 10:55:41 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:55:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Tank Discharge Fitting Message-ID: <744556.66396.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> My fuel line exiting the gas tank on my TR3 appears to be leaking slightly. I have it in as tight as I can get it. I am broke right now and too cheap to buy a new one from the big 3. I suppose that I can try to find a metal tube and ferrule from NAPA or somewhere to save a few bucks. I was wondering if I could smear the ferrule with non-hardening Permatex or something to help seal it. I was also wondering if the existing fitting could be replaced with a brass fitting that takes it straight to a rubber hose fitting. Anyone else been here before? Bill in Tehachapi From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Wed Sep 15 11:05:38 2010 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 17:05:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Tank Discharge Fitting In-Reply-To: <1530821855.81439.1284570163577.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <936132291.81621.1284570338934.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Permatex reacts to the gasoline and forms these really nice little plugs that have a habit of clogging fuel lines. I'm sure you can guess how I know that. I've had some luck finding adapters, connectors, and the such at the plumbing supply stores, but I don't remember if it was for this application or not. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 9:55:41 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Tank Discharge Fitting B B B My fuel line exiting the gas tank on my TR3 appears to be leaking slightly. I have it in as tight as I can get it. I am broke right now and too cheap to buy a new one from the big 3. I suppose that I can try to find a metal tube and ferrule from NAPA or somewhere to save a few bucks. B B B I was wondering if I could smear the ferrule with non-hardening Permatex or something to help seal it. I was also wondering if the existing fitting could be replaced with a brass fitting that takes it straight to a rubber hose fitting. B B B Anyone else been here before? B B B Bill in Tehachapi _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net From pethier at comcast.net Wed Sep 15 11:13:57 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 17:13:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR2/3 lubrication questions In-Reply-To: <8CD22FC58BFF96B-1724-ACA9@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <838238735.80057.1284570837332.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Andrew Mace" > To: agraham at execulink.com, triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 9:49:34 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 lubrication questions > > The most logical explanation I've heard is essentially that the use > of > grease might tend to keep any dirt 'in suspension', while any such > dirt > might be more likely to settle out and therefore not be in constant > contact with the moving parts. But modern greases are certainly much > better than those of old; at least they don't dry out, etc. That's the key. Grease used to harden in trunnions, leading to failure. Modern greases tend to stay greasy, so they should be OK. I used oil anyway in the TR4 because I was already set up for it. I guess I can repurpose that gun now... Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com > Hello LIst:B > Posting a couple of questions regarding lube for the trunions and > steering box. Recall the discussions around using an oil for the > trunions as opposed to a grease. Given today's synthetic greases, > would > these do a good job in the trunions? Just worried about the heavy > "oil" > running out of the trunions. Don't really look oil tight.B From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Sep 15 11:24:30 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 17:24:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 lubrication questions In-Reply-To: <838238735.80057.1284570837332.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <8CD22FC58BFF96B-1724-ACA9@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> <838238735.80057.1284570837332.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C6563E@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> The other thing I wonder about is the path that the lube has to take. It needs to go down through the vertical link to the bottom of the trunnion and then wend its way back up the thread. I imagine gear oil can do that easily, unclear to me how well grease performs at the same task so I stick with a shot of gear oil a couple of times a year. My trunnions don't leak however. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 1:14 PM To: Andrew Mace Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 lubrication questions That's the key. Grease used to harden in trunnions, leading to failure. Modern greases tend to stay greasy, so they should be OK. I used oil anyway in the TR4 because I was already set up for it. I guess I can repurpose that gun now... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 15 11:59:01 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:59:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Tank Discharge Fitting In-Reply-To: <744556.66396.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <744556.66396.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2c2f01cb54ff$ae51ef30$0af5cd90$@rr.com> > My fuel line exiting the gas tank on my TR3 appears to be leaking > slightly. I have it in as tight as I can get it. I am broke right now > and too cheap to buy a new one from the big 3. Just a thought, Bill, you might try finding some "valve stem packing" and using it as filler between the nut & ferrule on that fitting. It's basically just hard string (generally coated with some sort of lubricant), and should be readily available at your local hardware store (or maybe even at work if you still work at the concrete plant). Drain the tank, undo the nut, and wrap a couple of turns of packing around the tube between nut & ferrule. If you can get it stuffed back inside the tank fitting, and tighten the nut down on it, it should stop the leak. I'm not sure, but I suspect the tank fitting suffers from the same issue as the fuel pump fitting : no one makes a compression sleeve that fits properly. If so, then this article from Scott Suhring might be the answer: http://tinyurl.com/2cwfqe9 Permatex dissolves in alcohol, so is not compatible with gasohol. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 15 12:01:48 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:01:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss In-Reply-To: <9CBACFED-C105-4DFD-8951-F603B33BE03A@telus.net> References: <9CBACFED-C105-4DFD-8951-F603B33BE03A@telus.net> Message-ID: <2c3001cb5500$1181c7b0$34855710$@rr.com> > You might want to have a look at the cam lobes. As has been > discussed here before, oil composition has changed with resultant > premature wear of flat tappet cams due to a lack of specific additives. But, wear on the cam lobes, or any valve train component except the valve seats/faces, will cause the lash to be larger, not smaller. And since the cam lobes practically never wear on the base circle (where there is no force against them), even a severely worn lobe won't affect measured lash. -- Randall From banjonut at verizon.net Wed Sep 15 12:27:36 2010 From: banjonut at verizon.net (banjonut at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 18:27:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fuel tank Permatex Message-ID: <177017444-1284575257-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-151136725-@bda554.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> There is a Permatex made to seal fuel lines, gaskets, etc...it's called "aircraft grade" and its fuelproof. I've used it on carbs many times and it seals gaskets great. I don't know if it would work for your tank application but it might be worth a shot. I got it at Napa and it used to come in a blue and white plastic jar with a brush in the lid. If you have a leak in an airplane you can't exactly pull over and fix it, so they use this stuff. I sure hope its still available...good luck. Steve Ball '60 TR3A TS68164L Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Sep 15 13:33:36 2010 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:33:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire engine number Message-ID: I have a Spitty engine in my shop with the stamped number FK6630HE. I have been totally unable to track it down (year, model, etc.). Anyone know what it's from? Thanks, Bill From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Sep 15 13:58:02 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 19:58:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] Spitfire engine number In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C658BC@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> According to this chart it comes from a Mk IV USA Spit, 1296cc Nov 1970-Dec 1974 http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/prefix1.htm#Spitfire -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William McLeod Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 3:34 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spitfire engine number I have a Spitty engine in my shop with the stamped number FK6630HE. I have been totally unable to track it down (year, model, etc.). Anyone know what it's from? Thanks, Bill From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 15 15:44:07 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 14:44:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 lubrication questions In-Reply-To: <4C90D879.3030102@execulink.com> References: <4C90D879.3030102@execulink.com> Message-ID: <2cb001cb551f$209dc9f0$61d95dd0$@rr.com> > Recall the discussions around using an oil for the > trunions as opposed to a grease. One of the points frequently overlooked in such discussions is that the factory recommendation changed at the same time the trunnion assembly and vertical link was redesigned. > Given today's synthetic greases, would > these do a good job in the trunions? IMO just about any ordinary, lithium based grease will work fine, if you follow the factory recommended service intervals. I use a somewhat better grade of grease (just recently switched to synthetic) and cheat a little (OK, a lot) on the service interval, and they still seem to hold up just fine. I've lost track of how long the trunnions had been on my wrecked TR3A, but it's been over 10 years and they were still in good enough condition that I moved them to the project TR3, rather than installing the new ones I have on the shelf. > Just worried about the heavy "oil" > running out of the trunions. Don't really look oil tight. It may vary with the trunnion supplier; mine leak even grease to some extent. Oil would drip out in a matter of weeks if not days. However, the later trunnion design eliminated the leak point, so they should hold oil just fine. > Moving on to the steering box, would something like MT90 do the job > here? Anything from a FLAPS work in this application? Looking for some > recommendations. I use Valvoline full synthetic (GL5) gear oil in mine. Seems to work great. But I didn't switch to it until rebuilding the steering box, so I don't know how much of the improvement was due to change in lubricant, and how much to rebuilding the box. IMO, MT90 is the wrong lubricant here. Can't prove it, but it seems to me that the same friction characteristics that make it work well in synchromesh gearboxes would be a disadvantage in a steering box. You want something that is as slick as possible, under extreme load, wiping contact conditions. -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Sep 15 16:37:09 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 18:37:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Ashtray question Message-ID: <0B869828956D4D20BC092FCF0847CCBB@CarlPC> >From the TRA judging guide: After TS 42400, the optional swing-away ashtray was replaced by a standard unit that slid outward on a bracket fastened to the passenger's side dash support stay. The mounting bracket was painted gloss black. The body of the ashtray and the tensioning spring were clear cadmium plated. The rectangular face plate was black bakelite. The question - what should be the finish of the inside of the tray? The one I have is black - but should it be 'cad plated' the same as the outside of the body? Thanks Carl From dave at ranteer.com Wed Sep 15 17:03:50 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 18:03:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 concours question In-Reply-To: <0B869828956D4D20BC092FCF0847CCBB@CarlPC> References: <0B869828956D4D20BC092FCF0847CCBB@CarlPC> Message-ID: <1FC981024A1E4D5EBC5170E64F961D46@ranteer.local> on a 57 tr3 (small mouth, not 3a), would non different colored piping, i.e., piping the same color as the leather seats, be considered as correct? could that have come on a car or are ALL seats REQUIRED to have contrasting piping? what does the judging guide say? what has been your experience? From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Sep 15 19:16:07 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 21:16:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire engine number In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD2353DFFFF5E7-1020-8371@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com> Bill, that would be a fairly early 1971 model, USA-spec. engine. Note the "HE" suffix, indicating a High Compression engine. These still had something like 60-65 hp in stock form. It's also pre-recessed-bore specification (FK....UE suffix for the 1296 and also on all "1500" engines). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: William McLeod I have a Spitty engine in my shop with the stamped number FK6630HE. I have been totally unable to track it down (year, model, etc.). Anyone know what it's from? From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Sep 15 20:25:41 2010 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 19:25:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire engine number In-Reply-To: <8CD2353DFFFF5E7-1020-8371@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD2353DFFFF5E7-1020-8371@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Thanks, Andy And thanks to all for quick, accurate answers! Sent by old, fat gremlins! On Sep 15, 2010, at 18:16, Andrew Mace wrote: > Bill, that would be a fairly early 1971 model, USA-spec. engine. Note the "HE" suffix, indicating a High Compression engine. These still had something like 60-65 hp in stock form. It's also pre-recessed-bore specification (FK....UE suffix for the 1296 and also on all "1500" engines). > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us > > -----Original Message----- > From: William McLeod > > I have a Spitty engine in my shop with the stamped number FK6630HE. I have been totally unable to track it down (year, model, etc.). Anyone know what it's from? From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 08:08:52 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:08:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job References: <635808138.101241.1284517852308.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> <08ad01cb5494$6a42b240$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4076BC8FF74D43B5BE73ECC3EFAC1E8D@Edscomputer> Randall, So, how many hours for a clutch job and how much for the parts? $1100 for a shop charging, what? $60-$75 and hour?, doesn't seem excessive. Granted, you or I might do it for 1/2 that, but we're stuck in the 50's and don't have the overhead. Ed From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Sep 16 08:13:02 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:13:02 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job Message-ID: <1010531746.117464.1284646382466.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net> This shop charges $95 per hour, and that is cheap in the DC area.........Craig Sep 16, 2010 10:10:21 AM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: Randall, So, how many hours for a clutch job and how much for the parts? $1100 for a shop charging, what? $60-$75 and hour?, doesn't seem excessive. Granted, you or I might do it for 1/2 that, but we're stuck in the 50's and don't have the overhead. Ed _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From djsforza at gmail.com Thu Sep 16 08:43:59 2010 From: djsforza at gmail.com (Don Sforza) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:43:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job In-Reply-To: <4076BC8FF74D43B5BE73ECC3EFAC1E8D@Edscomputer> References: <635808138.101241.1284517852308.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> <08ad01cb5494$6a42b240$0301a8c0@randall> <4076BC8FF74D43B5BE73ECC3EFAC1E8D@Edscomputer> Message-ID: It really depends on how many times the mechanic has done a clutch job... for a TR it's a little wierd: removing the interior, etc. I did my TR4 twice... once for the clutch and then a month later to replace the newly replaced release bearing. By the time I got around to doing the TR6, I was really good a tearing it apart. I did the TR4 twice more... once to replace the tranny with an OD, then again to fix the OD that wasn't working. After all that, I can have a tranny on the floor, working alone, (with no grease on the upholstery) in an hour and a half or two. I'd say the $1100 if you're supplying the parts, is excessive... $800??? On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 10:08 AM, Ed Woods wrote: > Randall, > > So, how many hours for a clutch job and how much for the parts? $1100 for a > shop charging, what? $60-$75 and hour?, doesn't seem excessive. > > Granted, you or I might do it for 1/2 that, but we're stuck in the 50's and > don't have the overhead. > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/djsforza at gmail.com From djsforza at gmail.com Thu Sep 16 08:57:20 2010 From: djsforza at gmail.com (Don Sforza) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:57:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job In-Reply-To: <1976797485.118296.1284648587909.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1976797485.118296.1284648587909.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: For all new parts... a fair price. IMHO On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 10:49 AM, wrote: > Nope, their parts. Clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, cross shaft, > bearing, fork, taper pin, and push rod, 1 year warranty.........Craig > > > Sep 16, 2010 10:45:18 AM, djsforza at gmail.com wrote: > > It really depends on how many times the mechanic has done a clutch job... > for a TR it's a little wierd: removing the interior, etc. > > I did my TR4 twice... once for the clutch and then a month later to replace > the newly replaced release bearing. By the time I got around to doing the > TR6, I was really good a tearing it apart. I did the TR4 twice more... once > to replace the tranny with an OD, then again to fix the OD that wasn't > working. > > After all that, I can have a tranny on the floor, working alone, (with no > grease on the upholstery) in an hour and a half or two. I'd say the $1100 > if > you're supplying the parts, is excessive... $800??? > > On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 10:08 AM, Ed Woods wrote: > > > Randall, > > > > So, how many hours for a clutch job and how much for the parts? $1100 for > a > > shop charging, what? $60-$75 and hour?, doesn't seem excessive. > > > > Granted, you or I might do it for 1/2 that, but we're stuck in the 50's > and > > don't have the overhead. > > > > Ed > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/djsforza at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Sep 16 08:49:47 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:49:47 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job Message-ID: <1976797485.118296.1284648587909.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net> Nope, their parts. Clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, cross shaft, bearing, fork, taper pin, and push rod, 1 year warranty.........Craig Sep 16, 2010 10:45:18 AM, djsforza at gmail.com wrote: It really depends on how many times the mechanic has done a clutch job... for a TR it's a little wierd: removing the interior, etc. I did my TR4 twice... once for the clutch and then a month later to replace the newly replaced release bearing. By the time I got around to doing the TR6, I was really good a tearing it apart. I did the TR4 twice more... once to replace the tranny with an OD, then again to fix the OD that wasn't working. After all that, I can have a tranny on the floor, working alone, (with no grease on the upholstery) in an hour and a half or two. I'd say the $1100 if you're supplying the parts, is excessive... $800??? On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 10:08 AM, Ed Woods wrote: > Randall, > > So, how many hours for a clutch job and how much for the parts? $1100 for a > shop charging, what? $60-$75 and hour?, doesn't seem excessive. > > Granted, you or I might do it for 1/2 that, but we're stuck in the 50's and > don't have the overhead. > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/djsforza at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 16 10:41:47 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:41:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job In-Reply-To: <4076BC8FF74D43B5BE73ECC3EFAC1E8D@Edscomputer> References: <635808138.101241.1284517852308.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> <08ad01cb5494$6a42b240$0301a8c0@randall> <4076BC8FF74D43B5BE73ECC3EFAC1E8D@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <2e7101cb55be$120fe590$362fb0b0$@rr.com> > So, how many hours for a clutch job and how much for the parts? $1100 > for a > shop charging, what? $60-$75 and hour?, doesn't seem excessive. Well, maybe I am off base here. Don't have my flat rate manual handy, but I'm guessing 10 hours would be about right, for a shop equipped with all the right tools. I've not done a TR6, but I have done a TR3 in a single day and I think the TR6 only involves a few more bolts (to remove the center console). $750 labor plus $350 parts pretty well nails $1100. Puts a different light on doing it yourself; when you can work at half the speed of a professional, and still pay yourself $37.50 per hour, tax-free. > Granted, you or I might do it for 1/2 that You might, but I don't take money for working on Triumphs. It is strictly a hobby for me, and taking money crosses the line, IMO. YMMV The corollary of course is that I don't work on other's Triumphs, much -- Randall From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Thu Sep 16 11:24:08 2010 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:24:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 3/4 camshaft wear Message-ID: The book spec for camshaft lift is 0.26". I don't see a spec for allowable wear. I'm fairly certain that I have the original camshaft (a TR4). My measurements are .002" and .003" wear for lobes 1 and 8. Lobes 4 and 6 are .008" and .009" worn. The other 4 are .012" worn (0.248" lift). There's an engine rebuild sometime in the future but for now, how bad or not so bad are these measurements? What's the effect on performance? Allen From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 16 12:01:17 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:01:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 3/4 camshaft wear In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2ead01cb55c9$2b48a640$81d9f2c0$@rr.com> > There's an engine rebuild sometime in the future but for now, how bad > or not so bad are these measurements? What's the effect on performance? I don't have a direct answer, Allen. But the engine that was in my TR3A had significant wear on the camshaft lobes, and still ran pretty darn good. That includes winning my class at the only VTR autocross I ran it in; and being clocked at 90mph by a CHP (while passing someone in heavy traffic). I only got as far as checking lift on #2 exhaust, which was off by some .020" at the lifter (which translates to some .030" at the valve). There was some loss in performance, but it didn't really show up until over 4500 rpm. The engine would still pull out to redline (and beyond), but the power was starting to fade @ 45 rather than still rising as it should. -- Randall From mgodley at tiac.net Thu Sep 16 13:54:50 2010 From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 15:54:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 3/4 camshaft wear In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7A253F74557C499995038F1EFBAF3243@MichaelPC> Hi Allen, I can't add value to wear issue question, but ask what method did you use to take measurements...dial gage on top of the pushrods? "My measurements are .002" and .003" wear for lobes 1 and 8. Lobes 4 and 6 are .008" and .009" worn. The other 4 are .012" worn (0.248" lift)." Mike Godley From jgillis at tcd.ie Thu Sep 16 16:11:59 2010 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 23:11:59 +0100 Subject: [TR] HS4 Carb to Carb fuel pipe Message-ID: <5E3B4C4F-A0DA-4A2D-BCDF-4BE5AA67F004@tcd.ie> snip>Anyone know if there is a history of that curved solid pipe fracturing? The location is a bit scary right above the manifold. I made up new pipework, as I too was unhappy with the aftermarket flexible system. I got suitable copper pipe from plumbers suppliers and using plumbers solder attached the original banjo units, looks the part and works well John From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 16:31:19 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:31:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Race History In-Reply-To: <7A253F74557C499995038F1EFBAF3243@MichaelPC> Message-ID: <303847141.943098.1284676279000.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> ISTR reading somewhere that TR3's participated in LeMans back in--what?--the fifties? How'd they do? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Sep 16 16:54:43 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:54:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job Message-ID: <13086a.42cdb00c.39c3fa33@aol.com> In a message dated 9/16/2010 10:10:20 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: Granted, you or I might do it for 1/2 that, but we're stuck in the 50's and don't have the overhead. Ed Hey Ed, I am reminded of a Chevy Chase movie and the answer to your question would be: "How much do you got". Cheers, Darrell From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Sep 16 19:01:51 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:01:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job In-Reply-To: <4076BC8FF74D43B5BE73ECC3EFAC1E8D@Edscomputer> References: <635808138.101241.1284517852308.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net><08ad01cb5494$6a42b240$0301a8c0@randall> <4076BC8FF74D43B5BE73ECC3EFAC1E8D@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <8CD241B0C369907-AC4-6513@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com> For whatever it might be worth, the "Triumph Repair Time Schedule" lists 6.30 hours for "Clutch assembly and/or plate. replace"! That is for the TR4A, but other TRs should be comparable. We of the Herald persuasion are rather more fortunate, as it only takes 3.80 hours for the same operation in a Herald. It's 5.50 hours for a Spitfire or GT6, only 2.00 hours on the FWD 1300, and 5.80 hours on the big 2000 sedan! :-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Ed Woods To: Randall ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 10:08 am Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job Randall,B B So, how many hours for a clutch job and how much for the parts? $1100 for a shop charging, what? $60-$75 and hour?, doesn't seem excessive.B B Granted, you or I might do it for 1/2 that, but we're stuck in the 50's and don't have the overhead.B B Ed B _______________________________________________B Triumphs at autox.team.netB Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlB Suggested annual donation $11.47B Archive: http://www.team.net/archiveB Forums: http://www.team.net/forumsB Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/zoboherald at aol.comB B From mark at bradakis.com Thu Sep 16 19:39:24 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 19:39:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job In-Reply-To: References: <635808138.101241.1284517852308.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> <08ad01cb5494$6a42b240$0301a8c0@randall> <4076BC8FF74D43B5BE73ECC3EFAC1E8D@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <4C92C6CC.50103@bradakis.com> > I'd say the $1100 if you're supplying the parts, is excessive... $800??? If you are supplying the parts the shop should be charging you more than the usual labor rate, as often jobs are bid and the basic labor rate set with profit margin on parts taken into account. And if anything goes wrong - your parts, your problem. Their parts, their problem. mjb. From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Sep 16 19:46:26 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:46:26 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job Message-ID: <805551787.112434.1284687986942.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net> $600 labor @ $95 per hour, $200-$300 worth of parts, 1 year warranty against problems, and a rear gearbox oil seal replacement, in the big city, I am working with that. Dropped at the shop tonight, will advise. They are really advising that if the clutch is not causing problems, does not slip or pull out of gear, that I should just get the seal done. Thanks Andy, there are many times when I wish I could do this stuff myself, but I get it out, flywheel needs trued, days turn into weeks, there are some things I let the big boys do. This shop is very nice, the parts guy dropped me off at metro tonight so I could get home, saved me a $15 cab ride. The list can let this go, I will report back on completion, thanks to everyone for their input. Craig Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 Sep 16, 2010 09:02:54 PM, zoboherald at aol.com wrote: For whatever it might be worth, the "Triumph Repair Time Schedule" lists 6.30 hours for "Clutch assembly and/or plate. replace"! That is for the TR4A, but other TRs should be comparable. We of the Herald persuasion are rather more fortunate, as it only takes 3.80 hours for the same operation in a Herald. It's 5.50 hours for a Spitfire or GT6, only 2.00 hours on the FWD 1300, and 5.80 hours on the big 2000 sedan! :-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Ed Woods To: Randall ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 10:08 am Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job Randall,B B So, how many hours for a clutch job and how much for the parts? $1100 for a shop charging, what? $60-$75 and hour?, doesn't seem excessive.B B Granted, you or I might do it for 1/2 that, but we're stuck in the 50's and don't have the overhead.B B Ed B _______________________________________________B Triumphs at autox.team.netB Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlB Suggested annual donation $11.47B Archive: http://www.team.net/archiveB Forums: http://www.team.net/forumsB Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/zoboherald at aol.comB B _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Sep 16 19:47:25 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:47:25 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] How much for a clutch job Message-ID: <259920579.112447.1284688045539.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net> Usually I provide parts. In this case, they are, hence the one year warranty on problems, squeal, etc. Thanks..........Craig Sep 16, 2010 09:44:44 PM, mark at bradakis.com wrote: > I'd say the $1100 if you're supplying the parts, is excessive... $800??? If you are supplying the parts the shop should be charging you more than the usual labor rate, as often jobs are bid and the basic labor rate set with profit margin on parts taken into account. And if anything goes wrong - your parts, your problem. Their parts, their problem. mjb. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From dmericas at austin.rr.com Thu Sep 16 20:27:16 2010 From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 2:27:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 Message-ID: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> I've got what appears to be the symptoms of intermittent fuel starvation in my TR4, but I can't figure out the cause. I'm hoping the list can come up with some suggestions. Symptoms: - Car runs well and with full power for a while after start-up. - Loss of power and what feels like a miss under load after it's been driven a while. Going up a long hill seems to trigger the stumbling. If I let up on the throttle, it smooths out. Sometimes it drives well again for a while. - Problem seems to be worse when it's really hot out (I live in Austin) - Engine idles smoothly even when it's not running well under load. I replaced the fuel pump and filter. There is nothing in the fuel pump bowl to suggest debris in the system, and the new filter appears to be remaining clean. I have a Joe Curry heat shield on the carbs. The car has never exhibited anything like this in the 20 years I've owned it, so I'm trying to imagine what new factor has entered the picture. I'm suspecting a couple of possibilities: - Vapor lock because of a summer blend gas. I don't know what the local alcohol content is, but I'm thinking that it may have a much lower boiling point than what I'm used to running. - Flakes of rust or other debris caught in the outlet pipe from the fuel tank that's restricting flow. Any other ideas? Thanks. Dean Mericas Austin, TX 1965 TR4 / 1974 GTV 2000 / 1976 Giulia Nuova Super From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Sep 16 22:44:39 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:44:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Lucas Driving Light Filaments Message-ID: <900848.90870.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I have a set of Lucas LR6 driving lights on my TR3 (LR for Long Range, 6 inch diamenter). One light went out and the filament looks charred and there is a black tint on the upper lens. I am willing to bet it is burned out, but I will double check connectivity first. Are there any shops out there that change filaments or any places that just sell the filaments? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From wbeech at flash.net Thu Sep 16 22:50:02 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:50:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 In-Reply-To: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> References: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> Message-ID: <120610F85248412DAEFEE43BE8264D6D@bboffice> > Pull the tops off your float bowls and make sure the fuel is running freely and the shut-off jet is doing it's job and not hanging up in the closed position. Just had this same symptom with my TR3 last month. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 16 22:56:41 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:56:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 In-Reply-To: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> References: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> Message-ID: <0d3101cb5624$b81b7650$0301a8c0@randall> Dean, Do you have any hard evidence that it's lack of fuel, like maybe a pressure reading? That is certainly where I would start, since a marginal ignition can cause exactly the same symptoms. Randall From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Sep 17 00:07:31 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 01:07:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 In-Reply-To: <0d3101cb5624$b81b7650$0301a8c0@randall> References: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> <0d3101cb5624$b81b7650$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <20100917060648.465AB18764A@autox.team.net> Agree - check points, coil, rotor, etc. If the points aren't opening enough the coil's output isn't nearly as good. Sometimes when coils get hot they don't work so hot too (sorry) :) Being bolted to the side of the block doesn't help the coil stay cool. - Tony At 11:56 PM 9/16/2010, Randall wrote: >Dean, > >Do you have any hard evidence that it's lack of fuel, like maybe a pressure >reading? That is certainly where I would start, since a marginal ignition >can cause exactly the same symptoms. > >Randall > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Sep 17 09:25:27 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 08:25:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Shock Tower Bolts Message-ID: <800121.95429.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Man, nothing is making sense. I am changing out the upper control arm/fulcrum bushings on my TR3. I did one side last year and everything went smoothly. I was going to do the other side the following week, and you know how that can go... Now on the second side (the right side) the mounting bolts for the upper fulcrum are all wonky. The front inboard one is a bolt and nut and looks like the DPO put that in when he stripped the captive nut. The two outboard bolts each had 3 lock washers and the end of the bolt threads look like they were stripped. I went to measure the threads with a TPI gauge and it doesn't match anything I have. To really make me wonder, the outboard fulcrum mounting bolt holes bottom out after about 5 or 6 threads. On the other side ISTR that they went all the way through. Is it possible that the DPO sheared off the bolts last time he did this? Are the bolt holes supposed to bottom out like that? Are the outboard fulcrum mounting bolts supposed to be Whitworth or something? On the inboard mounting bolts, the rear one has no captive nut and had no nut on the end of the bolt. What kind of bolts is this supposed to have? I may just put the new bushings in and put it back how it was. My wife is on my case saying that I break things that aren't broken and it was okay until I tried to fix it. Help! TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 10:13:19 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:13:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 In-Reply-To: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> References: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> Message-ID: <135984.18127.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i recently had the exact same problems on the 3. turned out i had developed a kink in one of the soft fuel lines that was restricting the flow of gas. Frank To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 7:27:16 PM Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 I've got what appears to be the symptoms of intermittent fuel starvation in my TR4, but I can't figure out the cause. I'm hoping the list can come up with some suggestions. Symptoms: - Car runs well and with full power for a while after start-up. - Loss of power and what feels like a miss under load after it's been driven a while. Going up a long hill seems to trigger the stumbling. If I let up on the throttle, it smooths out. Sometimes it drives well again for a while. - Problem seems to be worse when it's really hot out (I live in Austin) - Engine idles smoothly even when it's not running well under load. I replaced the fuel pump and filter. There is nothing in the fuel pump bowl to suggest debris in the system, and the new filter appears to be remaining clean. I have a Joe Curry heat shield on the carbs. The car has never exhibited anything like this in the 20 years I've owned it, so I'm trying to imagine what new factor has entered the picture. I'm suspecting a couple of possibilities: - Vapor lock because of a summer blend gas. I don't know what the local alcohol content is, but I'm thinking that it may have a much lower boiling point than what I'm used to running. - Flakes of rust or other debris caught in the outlet pipe from the fuel tank that's restricting flow. Any other ideas? Thanks. Dean Mericas Austin, TX 1965 TR4 / 1974 GTV 2000 / 1976 Giulia Nuova Super _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 10:13:19 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:13:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 In-Reply-To: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> References: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> Message-ID: <135984.18127.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i recently had the exact same problems on the 3. turned out i had developed a kink in one of the soft fuel lines that was restricting the flow of gas. Frank To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 7:27:16 PM Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 I've got what appears to be the symptoms of intermittent fuel starvation in my TR4, but I can't figure out the cause. I'm hoping the list can come up with some suggestions. Symptoms: - Car runs well and with full power for a while after start-up. - Loss of power and what feels like a miss under load after it's been driven a while. Going up a long hill seems to trigger the stumbling. If I let up on the throttle, it smooths out. Sometimes it drives well again for a while. - Problem seems to be worse when it's really hot out (I live in Austin) - Engine idles smoothly even when it's not running well under load. I replaced the fuel pump and filter. There is nothing in the fuel pump bowl to suggest debris in the system, and the new filter appears to be remaining clean. I have a Joe Curry heat shield on the carbs. The car has never exhibited anything like this in the 20 years I've owned it, so I'm trying to imagine what new factor has entered the picture. I'm suspecting a couple of possibilities: - Vapor lock because of a summer blend gas. I don't know what the local alcohol content is, but I'm thinking that it may have a much lower boiling point than what I'm used to running. - Flakes of rust or other debris caught in the outlet pipe from the fuel tank that's restricting flow. Any other ideas? Thanks. Dean Mericas Austin, TX 1965 TR4 / 1974 GTV 2000 / 1976 Giulia Nuova Super _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From guy at genfiniti.com Fri Sep 17 10:29:33 2010 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 11:29:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Water Shields in Doors Message-ID: <0BFD1717-931F-4A96-8179-2E5CBD5B00BC@genfiniti.com> Greetings All, I was sorting through the door mechanics last night, and came across the original plastic "water shields". Should I even bother replacing these? I am guessing these things hung down from the top, on both side, to protect the mechanics from getting wet. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Fri Sep 17 11:00:51 2010 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:00:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel Starvation in my TR4 Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E68BC19@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> I'm in the 'Most carburetor issues are electrical' camp. Clean rotor, check points gap (renew as needed, and condenser). Get car warm and find a hill to check it out. Might be the coil (as others suggest) but I'd do the smaller stuff first. Another thought that crossed my mind when I read your issue was the advance mechanism in the distributor. Might it be gunged-up? Do you occasionally add a couple of drips of engine oil to the screw head at the top of the spindle - it's normally covered by the rotor. Brian From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Sep 17 11:23:11 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:23:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Water Shields in Doors References: <0BFD1717-931F-4A96-8179-2E5CBD5B00BC@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <77CA869A32BB4BFFB0774A2590BE3428@Alan> They keep your door panels from getting soaked in the rain. Some people stick a plastic sheet to the metal door to keep water off the door panels. I'd do one or the other. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Guy D. Huggins" To: ; Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 12:29 PM Subject: [TR] TR4A - Water Shields in Doors > Greetings All, > > I was sorting through the door mechanics last night, and came across the > original plastic "water shields". > Should I even bother replacing these? > > I am guessing these things hung down from the top, on both side, to > protect > the mechanics from getting wet. > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO > > Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Fri Sep 17 12:17:37 2010 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:17:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Shock Tower Bolts Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E68BC71@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> From: William Brewer Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Shock Tower Bolts the mounting bolts for the upper fulcrum are all wonky. The front inboard one is a bolt and nut and looks like the DPO put that in when he stripped the captive nut. The two outboard bolts each had 3 lock washers and the end of the bolt threads look like they were stripped. The outboard fulcrum mounting bolt holes bottom out after about 5 or 6 threads. Is it possible that the DPO sheared off the bolts last time he did this? Are the bolt holes supposed to bottom out like that? Bill: The outer are bolt and nut. Moss has them as 322-025 and 310-050. The inner are Cap Screws (322-060). I can't recall from doing mine if the bolt/cap screw differ dimensionally (thread, length diameter). I'd order 2 of each in case the DPO slung any old bolts in there, and then decide what needs doing with the captive nuts, if anything. My wife is on my case saying that I break things that aren't broken and it was okay until I tried to fix it. That seems a bit bloody harsh. Given the role the items in question have in getting the car to go where you want it to, and that you are fixing another's bodge. Brian From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Fri Sep 17 12:37:19 2010 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:37:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3/4 camshaft wear In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8F05085A-5C9B-469F-8546-1FD833E880DB@mgcarclub.com> On Sep 17, 2010, at 11:24 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > I can't add value to wear issue question, but ask what method did > you use to take measurements...dial gage on top of the pushrods? Yes, that's what I did. I had previously made a base plate which sits on the side of the head and is secured by the valve cover studs. Allen From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Sep 17 14:13:11 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:13:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Shock Tower Bolts In-Reply-To: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E68BC71@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> Message-ID: <351839.85087.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> B B B B I checked the previously done side and found that indeed the outboard bolts have a captive nut at the bottom. B B B B -Bill --- On Fri, 9/17/10, Brian Jones wrote: From: Brian Jones Subject: Re: TR3 Upper Shock Tower Bolts To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Cc: "wsb1960tr3a at att.net" Date: Friday, September 17, 2010, 11:17 AM From: William Brewer Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Shock Tower Bolts B B B B B the mounting bolts for the upper fulcrum are all wonky. The front inboard one is a bolt and nut and looks like the DPO put that in when he stripped the captive nut. The two outboard bolts each had 3 lock washers and the end of the bolt threads look like they were stripped.B B B B The outboard fulcrum mounting bolt holes bottom out after about 5 or 6 threads. Is it possible that the DPO sheared off the bolts last time he did this? Are the bolt holes supposed to bottom out like that? B B B B Bill: The outer are bolt and nut. Moss has them as 322-025 and 310-050. The inner are Cap Screws (322-060). B I canbt recall from doing mine if the bolt/cap screw differ dimensionally (thread, length diameter). Ibd order 2 of each in case the DPO slung any old bolts in there, and then decide what needs doing with the captive nuts, if anything. B B B B B B My wife is on my case saying that I break things that aren't broken and it was okay until I tried to fix it. B B B B B B B B That seems a bit bloody harsh. Given the role the items in question have in getting the car to go where you want it to, and that you are fixing anotherbs bodge. B Brian B From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 15:20:13 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:20:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] main/rod bearings Message-ID: <659953.28700.qm@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> taking apart tr-3 motor. found that big end rod bearings are .010 over. taking off the main bearing front and rear bearing/seal I find no notation of .010 but do find the number 0.254 MM above it another number that i think is a part number. just curious. I'm assuming that the main bearings are standard even though there is not a "standard" marking on the bearings. surely they aren't 0.254 mm over? Is it normal to go over on the rod bearings and leave the main bearings standard? thanks gary n. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 16:01:01 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:01:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] main/rod bearings In-Reply-To: <659953.28700.qm@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <659953.28700.qm@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <643990.30343.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Gary 0.254mm is equal to 0.010 inches frank ________________________________ From: Gary Nafziger To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, September 17, 2010 2:20:13 PM Subject: [TR] main/rod bearings taking apart tr-3 motor. found that big end rod bearings are .010 over. taking off the main bearing front and rear bearing/seal I find no notation of .010 but do find the number 0.254 MM above it another number that i think is a part number. just curious. I'm assuming that the main bearings are standard even though there is not a "standard" marking on the bearings. surely they aren't 0.254 mm over? Is it normal to go over on the rod bearings and leave the main bearings standard? thanks gary n. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From Loumetelko at aol.com Fri Sep 17 17:21:43 2010 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 19:21:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 Message-ID: <180d4b.29985403.39c55206@aol.com> Dean Mericas Austin, TX Dean: No sure but I assume that many on this list are also Formula 1 fanatics. With a purpose built track being planned and built in Austin, would you be so kind as to occasionally bring us up to date on the building of the facility for the return of F1 to the U. S. in 2012. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana Anybody but Alonzo! From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Sep 17 20:10:27 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 19:10:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR3 Upper Fulcrum Arm Message-ID: <21212.3137.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I need a straight upper fulcrum arm for a TR3A. This would be for the right side front or left side rear. It's a long story. Does anyone have one that they will sell? I see that Moss has them as NLA as does VB. If anyone has another source, please let me know. TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From mark at bradakis.com Fri Sep 17 21:22:43 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 21:22:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 In-Reply-To: <180d4b.29985403.39c55206@aol.com> References: <180d4b.29985403.39c55206@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C943083.1020904@bradakis.com> > Dean: > No sure but I assume that many on this list are also Formula 1 fanatics. > With a purpose built track being planned and built in Austin, would you be > so kind as to occasionally bring us up to date on the building of the > facility for the return of F1 to the U. S. in 2012. > > And there are no doubt many who care not one whit about Formula 1, and would find discussion about it on this list to be annoying. I'll suggest using http://www.team.net/forums, as the Bench Racing forum is just for this sort of thing. You can discuss F1 or whatever with your Team.Net buddies to your heart's content and I won't get any complaints about off-topic postings. mjb. From pethier at comcast.net Fri Sep 17 21:34:20 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 03:34:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <110320061923.28739.454B973A000BB3ED0000704322058863609D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1519015033.222678.1284780860654.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > Seriously, I seem to find my left foot on the dimmer switch on the > TR4. > > The Miata has a very nice fourth pedal from the factory. And of course, so does the Stag! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From mntr3a at aol.com Sat Sep 18 04:36:08 2010 From: mntr3a at aol.com (mntr3a at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 06:36:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Water Shields in Doors Message-ID: <8CD253470762940-1338-C2F9@Webmail-m109.sysops.aol.com> Rubber on outside felt on inside. From rawanderer at comcast.net Sat Sep 18 07:56:26 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 09:56:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <1519015033.222678.1284780860654.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20100918135524.EB443187667@autox.team.net> Installed a "dead pedal" in my 1974 TR6 using the accelerator pedal cover from Moss's Billet Pedal Cover Set (P/N 190-798) and two L-brackets. It's positioned about 1/4" above the height of the clutch pedal and quite comfortable for any trip length. BobW Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philly) -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Friday, 17 September, 2010 11:34 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 > Seriously, I seem to find my left foot on the dimmer switch on the > TR4. > > The Miata has a very nice fourth pedal from the factory. And of course, so does the Stag! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Sep 18 08:12:50 2010 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:12:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 In-Reply-To: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> References: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> Message-ID: <235CB69D849644ABA0C586B8A0B0F296@DaveLaptop> Dean, A friend of mine had a similar problem with his TR4A. He moved his ignition coil to the inner fender close to the horn, not on the block and the problem went away. You might try temporarily mounting your coil somewhere else besides the hot engine block and see if it improves the situation. I know they came that way and most people don't have that problem but maybe the hotter weather combined with a hot block to weaken the coil output? Worth a try anyway and won't cost much to implement. If you try it, let me know as I have a TR4A also. Thanks, Dave Connitt > I've got what appears to be the symptoms of intermittent fuel starvation > in my TR4, but I can't figure out the cause. I'm hoping the list can come > up with some suggestions. From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Sep 18 08:29:04 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:29:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss Message-ID: <83c1b.3cb6cff7.39c626b0@aol.com> Is it possible that a disconnected vacuum retard line @ the dizzy could cause the bright white #6 plug. Noticed that when I pulled the plugs the first time. Not sure if I did it then or it was like that for a while. This line goes to the rear carb. Tested the intake manifold by spraying starter fluid while the Six was at idle. No detectable increase in idle at all. Afterwards I pulled #6 and it was no longer bright white but brown instead??? Darrell From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 18 09:37:08 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 08:37:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 In-Reply-To: <180d4b.29985403.39c55206@aol.com> References: <180d4b.29985403.39c55206@aol.com> Message-ID: <244810.68138.qm@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Fanatic here love to hear whats happening frank ________________________________ From: "Loumetelko at aol.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, September 17, 2010 4:21:43 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 Dean Mericas Austin, TX Dean: No sure but I assume that many on this list are also Formula 1 fanatics. With a purpose built track being planned and built in Austin, would you be so kind as to occasionally bring us up to date on the building of the facility for the return of F1 to the U. S. in 2012. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana Anybody but Alonzo! _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 10:13:24 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 09:13:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <20100918135524.EB443187667@autox.team.net> References: <1519015033.222678.1284780860654.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <20100918135524.EB443187667@autox.team.net> Message-ID: On the TR4 I put a rubber crutch tip over the dipper switch to make a dead pedal, then pull it off for night driving. Not sure if this would work on the 6. Oddly, the early TR3 dipper works much more stiffly and I can rest a foot on it w/o it operating. From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Sep 18 12:32:20 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 13:32:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 In-Reply-To: <235CB69D849644ABA0C586B8A0B0F296@DaveLaptop> References: <20100917022717.EWKY3.295996.root@hrndva-web28-z01> <235CB69D849644ABA0C586B8A0B0F296@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <20100918183142.65781187668@autox.team.net> If you do relocate the coil, be sure to stick bolts back into the coil mounting holes in the side of the block. They go all the way through and oil will escape from them if not plugged. - Tony At 09:12 AM 9/18/2010, Dave Connitt wrote: >Dean, >A friend of mine had a similar problem with his TR4A. He moved his >ignition coil to the inner fender close to the horn, not on the >block and the problem went away. You might try temporarily mounting >your coil somewhere else besides the hot engine block and see if it >improves the situation. I know they came that way and most people >don't have that problem but maybe the hotter weather combined with a >hot block to weaken the coil output? >Worth a try anyway and won't cost much to implement. >If you try it, let me know as I have a TR4A also. >Thanks, >Dave Connitt > > > > >>I've got what appears to be the symptoms of intermittent fuel >>starvation in my TR4, but I can't figure out the cause. I'm hoping >>the list can come up with some suggestions. From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 18 12:59:44 2010 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:59:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <68541.27412.qm@web37505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I put it in the space to the left of the clutch pedal. No problem. Chad in Tulsa BTW.....I drive a '76 with the dip switch onthe column. Message: 1 Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 09:13:24 -0700 From: Geo Hahn Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 To: Triumphs Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 On the TR4 I put a rubber crutch tip over the dipper switch to make a dead pedal, then pull it off for night driving. Not sure if this would work on the 6. Oddly, the early TR3 dipper works much more stiffly and I can rest a foot on it w/o it operating. From staffel at comcast.net Sat Sep 18 13:21:14 2010 From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 19:21:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 left foot rest Message-ID: <2064216567-1284837652-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1700763399-@bda2781.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I too just rest against the dipper switch, but should add 'pedal' over it like on Jensen interceptor (no floor dipswitch); yup-we are all spoiled by the modern cars! But there is no substitute for TR gutsy 4cyls and the short throw choppy traNny shifter for TR fun! Sometimes 'basic' is beautiful! Sherman D Taffel TR4 CT50054L Columbia MD/Goldvein VA Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Sep 18 14:11:01 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 16:11:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Part Numbers References: <2064216567-1284837652-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1700763399-@bda2781.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: List, With all the info floating around cyperspace, I've been unable to find a comprehensive list of Lucas part numbers. How would one identify an obscure Lucas part? Ideally, I'd like to be able to enter a number, say, 52539, and come up with "One Side Lamp", "used on Triumph TR4A, TR250 etc. Does such documents exist? Ed Woods From dmericas at austin.rr.com Sat Sep 18 14:23:19 2010 From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (Dean Mericas) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 15:23:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 - Report back In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Original message: > You guys have been great in coming up with ideas. This is what I've done so far (without any apparent effect on the problem): - Swapped out the coil with a good used Bosch unit - Swapped out the Pertronix ignitor unit with a set of points, gapped them to spec, and set the timing. - Checked the advance mechanism, and it does. - Checked the spark plug gaps - Checked the oil level in the carb dampers (ZS carbs) Other suggestions that don't seem likely: - Water in the gas. The fuel pump bowl is absolutely clean w/no trace of either water or debris. - Hung up fuel valve in one of the carbs. It seems like gravity would tend towards a failure mode with too much gas not too little. I'll probably check this if all else fails. - Kink in one of the soft gas lines. I looked at the various sections and they all appear OK, at least superficially. I may go ahead and replace them all if I end up draining the fuel system. I'm open to other suggestions. Is there any chance that some valve train issue, such as a weak or broken spring, or a burned valve could be causing these symptoms? It seems unlikely since the problem is intermittent. I'm thinking that he next step is to drain the fuel tank and back blow the fuel line to convince myself that there is nothing clogging it. I'm running out of ideas if that doesn't solve the problem. This car has been remarkably simple to maintain and reliable in the 19 years that I've had it. This loss of power at high speed problem is getting pretty frustrating. Dean Mericas Austin, TX 1965 TR4 / 1974 2000 GTV / 1976 Giulia Nuova Super From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 18 14:36:20 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 14:36:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 - Report back In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7D0EB6A2B4834C589CC72C437429E4B0@bboffice> Check your carbs... If the jet is stuck it will starve the engine. BTDT Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dean Mericas Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 2:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 - Report back Original message: > You guys have been great in coming up with ideas. This is what I've done so far (without any apparent effect on the problem): - Swapped out the coil with a good used Bosch unit - Swapped out the Pertronix ignitor unit with a set of points, gapped them to spec, and set the timing. - Checked the advance mechanism, and it does. - Checked the spark plug gaps - Checked the oil level in the carb dampers (ZS carbs) Other suggestions that don't seem likely: - Water in the gas. The fuel pump bowl is absolutely clean w/no trace of either water or debris. - Hung up fuel valve in one of the carbs. It seems like gravity would tend towards a failure mode with too much gas not too little. I'll probably check this if all else fails. - Kink in one of the soft gas lines. I looked at the various sections and they all appear OK, at least superficially. I may go ahead and replace them all if I end up draining the fuel system. I'm open to other suggestions. Is there any chance that some valve train issue, such as a weak or broken spring, or a burned valve could be causing these symptoms? It seems unlikely since the problem is intermittent. I'm thinking that he next step is to drain the fuel tank and back blow the fuel line to convince myself that there is nothing clogging it. I'm running out of ideas if that doesn't solve the problem. This car has been remarkably simple to maintain and reliable in the 19 years that I've had it. This loss of power at high speed problem is getting pretty frustrating. Dean Mericas Austin, TX 1965 TR4 / 1974 2000 GTV / 1976 Giulia Nuova Super _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Sep 18 14:39:53 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 15:39:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 - Report back In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20100918203909.AC228187661@autox.team.net> How vexing! One thing we've had happen is for some debris to be in the bottom of the float bowl and either restrict fuel or intermittently shut off fuel to the carb in question. With the SU we had a little flap of rubber in the connection between the float bowl and the carb body that was a PAIN to find, but with the ZS it's all one piece. I think it's pretty easy to remove and clean out the needle valve in the carb while you're at it. We had a fuel delivery problem (in a race car) that was caused by a pressure regulator - it would lay down at the end of the straight but backing off the gas would tend to make it run better. Kinda sounds like the same symptom you're fighting. A long time under high throttle opening in a tall gear using more gas than the system could supply for some reason. I think you mentioned this but stock fuel pump? Might try temporarily putting a low pressure electric one in the line to see if somehow something with the pumping side of things is an issue. Something restricting fuel flow SOUNDS like a strong possibility - the question is WHAT, of course. - Tony At 03:23 PM 9/18/2010, Dean Mericas wrote: >Original message: >- Car runs well and with full power for a while after start-up. >- Loss of power and what feels like a miss under load after it's been driven >a while. Going up a long hill seems to trigger the stumbling. If I let up >on the throttle, it smoothes out. Sometimes it drives well again for a >while. >- Problem seems to be worse when it's really hot out (I live in Austin), >although it also happens on cool mornings >- Engine idles smoothly even when it's not running well under load.>> > >You guys have been great in coming up with ideas. This is what I've done so >far (without any apparent effect on the problem): > >- Swapped out the coil with a good used Bosch unit >- Swapped out the Pertronix ignitor unit with a set of points, gapped them >to spec, and set the timing. >- Checked the advance mechanism, and it does. >- Checked the spark plug gaps >- Checked the oil level in the carb dampers (ZS carbs) > >Other suggestions that don't seem likely: > >- Water in the gas. The fuel pump bowl is absolutely clean w/no trace of >either water or debris. > >- Hung up fuel valve in one of the carbs. It seems like gravity would tend >towards a failure mode with too much gas not too little. I'll probably >check this if all else fails. > >- Kink in one of the soft gas lines. I looked at the various sections and >they all appear OK, at least superficially. I may go ahead and replace them >all if I end up draining the fuel system. > >I'm open to other suggestions. Is there any chance that some valve train >issue, such as a weak or broken spring, or a burned valve could be causing >these symptoms? It seems unlikely since the problem is intermittent. > >I'm thinking that he next step is to drain the fuel tank and back blow the >fuel line to convince myself that there is nothing clogging it. I'm running >out of ideas if that doesn't solve the problem. This car has been >remarkably simple to maintain and reliable in the 19 years that I've had it. >This loss of power at high speed problem is getting pretty frustrating. > >Dean Mericas >Austin, TX >1965 TR4 / 1974 2000 GTV / 1976 Giulia Nuova Super From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sat Sep 18 19:40:53 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 01:40:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <1519015033.222678.1284780860654.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1360208215.23968.1284860453640.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Dimmer switch unless my leg gets tired on a long trip, then I will pull it up and keep it flat for a period of time. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 ----- Original Message ----- From: pethier at comcast.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 11:34:20 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 > Seriously, I seem to find my left foot on the dimmer switch on the > TR4. > > The Miata has a very nice fourth pedal from the factory. And of course, so does the Stag! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/suhringtr36 at comcast.net From zoboherald at aol.com Sat Sep 18 20:57:22 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 22:57:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Part Numbers In-Reply-To: References: <2064216567-1284837652-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1700763399-@bda2781.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <8CD25BD83FCCA2B-1988-14E09@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> Ed, I vaguely remember having found something online awhile back; it might have been bookmarked on my last computer. Barring that, and being a traditionalist, I tend to go with my traditional Lucas Catalogues. For the example you cite -- 52539 -- I find it in my Lucas Popular Spares for Cars and Commercial Vehicles 1962-71 catalogue. I also have some year-specific, (Standard-)Triumph-specific Lucas catalogues, as well as my prized Lucas Master Catalogue 400E, 1945-60. I'll be happy to look up an obscure Lucas numbers for you (an offer I happily extend to all on this list, but within reason, of course)! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Ed Woods To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 4:11 pm Subject: [TR] Lucas Part Numbers List,B B With all the info floating around cyperspace, I've been unable to find a comprehensive list of Lucas part numbers. How would one identify an obscure Lucas part? Ideally, I'd like to be able to enter a number, say, 52539, and come up with "One Side Lamp", "used on Triumph TR4A, TR250 etc. Does such documents exist?B From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 18 21:27:42 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 21:27:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas Part Numbers In-Reply-To: <8CD25BD83FCCA2B-1988-14E09@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> References: <2064216567-1284837652-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1700763399-@bda2781.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <8CD25BD83FCCA2B-1988-14E09@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Or, one of TRF's Red('87), Blue('89) or Green('91) price list books. The provide an excellent cross reference for many parts including Lucas. BTW, I see that 52539 was superseded by 56466 as used on a TR250 & TR5. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Mace Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 8:57 PM To: fogbro1 at comcast.net; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas Part Numbers Ed, I vaguely remember having found something online awhile back; it might have been bookmarked on my last computer. Barring that, and being a traditionalist, I tend to go with my traditional Lucas Catalogues. For the example you cite -- 52539 -- I find it in my Lucas Popular Spares for Cars and Commercial Vehicles 1962-71 catalogue. I also have some year-specific, (Standard-)Triumph-specific Lucas catalogues, as well as my prized Lucas Master Catalogue 400E, 1945-60. I'll be happy to look up an obscure Lucas numbers for you (an offer I happily extend to all on this list, but within reason, of course)! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Ed Woods To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 4:11 pm Subject: [TR] Lucas Part Numbers List,B B With all the info floating around cyperspace, I've been unable to find a comprehensive list of Lucas part numbers. How would one identify an obscure Lucas part? Ideally, I'd like to be able to enter a number, say, 52539, and come up with "One Side Lamp", "used on Triumph TR4A, TR250 etc. Does such documents exist?B _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From brad.kahler at 141.com Sun Sep 19 04:49:52 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 06:49:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Part Numbers In-Reply-To: <8CD25BD83FCCA2B-1988-14E09@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> References: <2064216567-1284837652-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1700763399-@bda2781.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <8CD25BD83FCCA2B-1988-14E09@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Here is the Lucas 400e catalog broken into sections, scanned and ocr'd so you can do part number and text searches. http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-index-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-A50-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-A116-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-B18-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-E10-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-F68-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-G85-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-J30-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-K71-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-M8-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-N40-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-P32-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-R47-ocr.pdf http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-U38-ocr.pdf Enjoy, Brad - Show quoted text - On Sat, Sep 18, 2010 at 10:57 PM, Andrew Mace wrote: > Ed, I vaguely remember having found something online awhile back; it > might have been bookmarked on my last computer. Barring that, and being > a traditionalist, I tend to go with my traditional Lucas Catalogues. > For the example you cite -- 52539 -- I find it in my Lucas Popular > Spares for Cars and Commercial Vehicles 1962-71 catalogue. I also have > some year-specific, (Standard-)Triumph-specific Lucas catalogues, as > well as my prized Lucas Master Catalogue 400E, 1945-60. I'll be happy > to look up an obscure Lucas numbers for you (an offer I happily extend > to all on this list, but within reason, of course)! > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, > Triumph Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph > Register: http://www.vtr.org > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph > Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ed Woods > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 4:11 pm > Subject: [TR] Lucas Part Numbers > > > List,B B With all the info floating around cyperspace, I've been unable to > find > a comprehensive list of Lucas part numbers. How would one identify an > obscure Lucas part? Ideally, I'd like to be able to enter a number, > say, 52539, and come up with "One Side Lamp", "used on Triumph TR4A, > TR250 etc. Does such documents exist?B > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com From reneandarnold at earthlink.net Sun Sep 19 05:52:50 2010 From: reneandarnold at earthlink.net (reneandarnold at earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 07:52:50 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Triumph Part Numbers Message-ID: <23635763.1284897170660.JavaMail.root@wamui-haziran.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Brad provided much useful info for Lucas parts. Does anyone have such for Triumphs in general or specifically TR4 and TR4A. I have tried to obtain a parts reference book or pdf from TRF No luck. TRF uses these numbers to sell parts but do not offer any way to easily look up their numbers. I for one would gladly order more from them if it was a easier process. Oh well, it is what it is! Gear box, clutch and the rest of the drive train may be in CTC 5969 1 L by nightfall. So here's to good fortune. Arnold From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Sun Sep 19 06:51:06 2010 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 08:51:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] 4 or 7 PSI radiator cap Message-ID: <4c96073a.103.3829.8944@cogeco.ca> Any fundimental difference between the cooling system on a 3A vs. 3B that would explain the different recommended cap? My 4-5 year old 4PSI cap fell apart in my hands (can't remember if it was from Moss or TRF), and since it lifts and causes water loss under most conditions I figured I'd subsitute the 7PSI one. Waterpump, rad and hoses are new the only possible weak point might be the heater core. PS reproduction seat bracket rails falling apart before my eyes as well. Thanks, Art From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Sep 19 07:27:38 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 09:27:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] New Spark plug wires arc Message-ID: I have been having a similar intermittent missing problem that seems to be plaguing the list lately. Went through several things and the car is running well now. In my case - it was the coil that was giving me troubles. On my way to the resolution, I bought new cap and wires from Moss. It seems if the #4 wire is close to the heater pipe - it arcs through the insulation of the wire just below where to boot ends. I'm not thinking this is normal - but wanted to make sure before I try to send them back. I've currently got the wires pulled away from any metal with tape -- looks bad - runs good! Chris 63 TR4 - From brad.kahler at 141.com Sun Sep 19 07:53:32 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 09:53:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lucas Part Numbers In-Reply-To: <5C4A8F0616030043A27F701B49F79D674BF9860C4F@KENAI.amr.ch2m.com> References: <5C4A8F0616030043A27F701B49F79D674BF9860C4F@KENAI.amr.ch2m.com> Message-ID: Dean, Try that link again. I had a typo in the file name up on the server. Should be resolved now. Brad On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 7:22 AM, wrote: > Brad  > > First, thanks for posting the Lucas 400e parts catalog files. One of the > files (http://campkahler.com/files/Lucas-400e-to-P32-ocr.pdf) came up as not > found. Can you provide an alternate link? > > Thanks. > > Dean Mericas From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sun Sep 19 07:58:24 2010 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 14:58:24 +0100 Subject: [TR] Engine Removal TR2 Message-ID: I have finally accepted it is time to remove my "rebuilt engine" to deal with the incontinent rear crank seal. I intend to remove the front nose/panel and radiator. What is the opinion as regards the best way from removal and replacement- should I take engine and box out as a unit (as I did first time round) or separate the two leaving the box in place? I have a fully fitted interior and exhaust which leads me to believe the box and engine as a unit would be more complicated than previously. Regards John From tr4zest at gmail.com Sun Sep 19 08:39:19 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:39:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radiator repair in-situ, TR4 Message-ID: Just sharing a modest success. I have a TR4 with the long-neck header from the TR3 set-up. These necks are prone to crack, and true-to-form, mine developed a weeping fissure. Having installed an electric fan to the back of the radiator and a temperature-sensor between the radiator's fins, I wanted to see if I could fix the crack without pulling the radiator. So, I drained the radiator and removed the paint around the 0.5 " crack and saw that the joint was soldered. I had expected it to be brazed. Solder it is then. Acetone, then flux, then solder. Its a little bit of a fiddle to get the joint warm enough to let solder flow without clearing the joint of all its solder. I switched from a propane/oxy torch to just a simple propane torch to better control the heat at a lower temperature. With the joint soldered, I needed to pressure test. I had previously removed the upper hose to save it from the heat. I closed that port with a cloth and thick vinyl, secured by the inlet hose's circlip. I found a cork bung to fit the radiator cap's hole and connected an air compressor (one to put air in tyres) to the rad's overflow tube where it ends, beneath the frame. As the compressor pressurised the radiator, I put soapy water over the joint. I saw a small bubble develop very slowly, so I knew I was not done. I re-cleaned everything (acetone, flux) then re-soldered the joint. Second time, I saw no bubbles and saw the pressure on the compressor's digital gauge gradually climb to 6 lbs. All re-filled with coolant, a quick test-drive and the joint was dry. Next weekend, I'll prime and paint it. So, if your TR4 (or TR3) weeps in the same way, simple pipe-soldering 'skills' can get it done. Brian Valley Forge, PA TR4 14455 L (O) From lbc.resto at verizon.net Sun Sep 19 08:42:12 2010 From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:42:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Part Numbers In-Reply-To: <23635763.1284897170660.JavaMail.root@wamui-haziran.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <23635763.1284897170660.JavaMail.root@wamui-haziran.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <000601cb5808$db859ae0$9290d0a0$@verizon.net> Excellent, thanks Brad. I must be a car geek if I like that sort of stuff. Brings back memories of going through musty manuals. Ditto on the request for the TR4 and later. Thanks. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of reneandarnold at earthlink.net Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 7:53 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Triumph Part Numbers Brad provided much useful info for Lucas parts. Does anyone have such for Triumphs in general or specifically TR4 and TR4A. I have tried to obtain a parts reference book or pdf from TRF No luck. TRF uses these numbers to sell parts but do not offer any way to easily look up their numbers. I for one would gladly order more from them if it was a easier process. Oh well, it is what it is! Gear box, clutch and the rest of the drive train may be in CTC 5969 1 L by nightfall. So here's to good fortune. Arnold _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lbc.resto at verizon.net From brad.kahler at 141.com Sun Sep 19 08:54:29 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:54:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Part Numbers In-Reply-To: <000601cb5808$db859ae0$9290d0a0$@verizon.net> References: <23635763.1284897170660.JavaMail.root@wamui-haziran.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <000601cb5808$db859ae0$9290d0a0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: Like Andy I have all of the Lucas parts manuals that cover to to the mid 70s. The problem with getting these posted online is the manuals are bound and hand scanning each page is very labor intensive. I've often considered cutting the binding off and scanning them in. Some would consider this blasphemy (right Andy!) but they aren't really doing anyone much good if they sit in a bookcase forever. I'll have to rethink what to do about them. Heck, just the other day I ran across an older SU carburetor rebuild manual that someone had posted that turned out to be very help to me. I do have the Standard Triumph TR4 service manual scanned in that I will probably have to post online one of these days. I'll do it sooner if there is sufficient interest. Brad On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 10:42 AM, LBC.Resto wrote: > Excellent, thanks Brad. I must be a car geek if I like that sort of stuff. > Brings back memories of going through musty manuals. > > Ditto on the request for the TR4 and later. > > Thanks. > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > reneandarnold at earthlink.net > Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 7:53 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Triumph Part Numbers > > Brad provided much useful info for Lucas parts. Does anyone have such for > Triumphs in general or specifically TR4 and TR4A. I have tried to obtain a > parts reference book or pdf from TRF No luck. > TRF uses these numbers to sell parts but do not offer any way to easily look > up their numbers. I for one would gladly order more from them if it was a > easier process. Oh well, it is what it is! > > Gear box, clutch and the rest of the drive train may be in CTC 5969 1 L > by nightfall. So here's to good fortune. Arnold > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lbc.resto at verizon.net From lbc.resto at verizon.net Sun Sep 19 09:02:11 2010 From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 11:02:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Through 6 Diaphragm Clutch Message-ID: <000801cb580b$a3d52310$eb7f6930$@verizon.net> I know that there are different schools of thought on these clutches; OEM vs. aftermarket. It is not my intent to open that up here. Original pressure plate, not aftermarket. - Does anyone know the wear specs for the pressure plate: o actual surface thickness? o allowable wear on the spring fingers where the release bearing contacts? - Do they wear out? - What goes wrong on them? Thanks From wbeech at flash.net Sun Sep 19 09:31:23 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 09:31:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] New Spark plug wires arc In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <752BF94D-2FAC-42DA-97EE-7480610C71A5@flash.net> Any arcing is not good. Send them back. Mobile Bill On Sep 19, 2010, at 7:27 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > I have been having a similar intermittent missing problem that seems to be > plaguing the list lately. > > Went through several things and the car is running well now. In my case - > it was the coil that was giving me troubles. > > On my way to the resolution, I bought new cap and wires from Moss. It > seems if the #4 wire is close to the heater pipe - it arcs through the > insulation of the wire just below where to boot ends. > > I'm not thinking this is normal - but wanted to make sure before I try to > send them back. I've currently got the wires pulled away from any metal > with tape -- looks bad - runs good! > > Chris > 63 TR4 - > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Sep 19 09:51:20 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 08:51:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Part Numbers In-Reply-To: References: <23635763.1284897170660.JavaMail.root@wamui-haziran.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <000601cb5808$db859ae0$9290d0a0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4C963178.6050403@gmail.com> On 9/19/10 7:54 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: > Like Andy I have all of the Lucas parts manuals that cover to to the > mid 70s. The problem with getting these posted online is the manuals > are bound and hand scanning each page is very labor intensive. I've > often considered cutting the binding off and scanning them in. Some > would consider this blasphemy (right Andy!) but they aren't really > doing anyone much good if they sit in a bookcase forever. I'll have > to rethink what to do about them. > Geeezzzz, You guys are beginning to make me feel guilty. I'm beginning to feel that if I were a good lister I should scan them and put them up on the web. Just sitting on a shelf in plastic dust covers I have: Lucas equipment for 1961 cars and commercial vehicles Lucas C.A.V. Equipment and spare parts for 1963 Standard & Triumph (This one provides expanded drawings of assemblies such as the distributor and calls out the part numbers of the parts within the assembly) Lucas popular spares 1946-1960 And Service Instruction Manual for the Laycock - De - Normanville Overdrive Unit with Electrical Control (A Standard Motor Company Limited publication (As fitted to the TR2) and loose pages from an unknown publication titled " Transmission Overdrive Laycock - de - Normanville, First type "A" as applied to Humber, Austin Healey, Triumph TR2-TR3, Vanguard, Etc. and for type "D" as applies to Singer, Sunbeam, etc. (These only cover the overdrive that only engages in 3rd & 4th gear). Teriann 1960 Land Rover Dormobile 1961 Triumph TR3A From bjzwissler at gmail.com Sun Sep 19 10:25:06 2010 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 12:25:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 407 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C963962.9090807@gmail.com> OK, before you go to that trouble, let me tell you my history - abbreviated. Bought a 67 TR4A in pieces (age 15, 1976) after it had passed through several hands in pieces. Put it back together, mostly, started driving it shortly after age 16. Started having trouble with fuel starvation - sometimes low power sometimes no go. Went through much of what you did. Got a flashlight and peered into the fuel tank through the filler neck. Saw several "sticks" - tree limbs almost - laying on bottom of tank. Thought, hmmm, how do I get these out and could these be causing my problem? Removed the fuel line feeding the the fuel pump (no debris in the fuel bowl BTW), hooked up a bicycle pump and blew backwards through fuel line (no air compressor in those days). Car starts running. Problem solved!!!! ----at least temporarily. Temporarily turned into more or less permanently - never had time to remove the tank as long as it kept running. However, I did start carrying a bicycle pump with me after it died on me with my girlfriend in the car and a friendly local policeman gave us a ride to her folks house to borrow a bicycle pump. Got rid of the car on college graduation in 1983 having never removed or cleaned out the tank. Anyway, my recommendation - try the bicycle pump trick and see if the problem improves before you go to trouble of draining and removing the tank. Could use compressed air but be sure to turn the pressure regulator down to bicycle pump levels. Come to think of it a MityVac would be perfect with those tapered adapters. Ben..... Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 On 9/19/2010 6:49 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > I'm thinking that he next step is to drain the fuel tank and back blow the > fuel line to convince myself that there is nothing clogging it. I'm running > out of ideas if that doesn't solve the problem. This car has been > remarkably simple to maintain and reliable in the 19 years that I've had it. > This loss of power at high speed problem is getting pretty frustrating. > > Dean Mericas > Austin, TX > 1965 TR4 / 1974 2000 GTV / 1976 Giulia Nuova Super From hdrider570 at att.net Sun Sep 19 10:45:43 2010 From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 09:45:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] ref: TR3 Rear Main Seal Leak Message-ID: <4C963E37.20703@att.net> /OnQ4HB: Permission denied From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Sep 19 12:29:12 2010 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 14:29:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Computer Keyboard Problems! (Not Triumph related) Message-ID: <90EA7086B1C740B98EC947C09E8E30A3@OwnerPC> This is extremely frustrating!! I only write a couple of emails daily and about once a week I sit down to write one and my keyboard's LAYOUT CHANGES!! I use the standard qwerty-type layout of the alphabet, but, almost all the key's are different. The 's' becomes an 'o', the original 'o' key becomes an 'r', and so forth. I think it only applies to certain programs. It even affects the cut-and-paste procedure. Please help! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From spitlist at cox.net Sun Sep 19 12:39:03 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 11:39:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Computer Keyboard Problems! (Not Triumph related) In-Reply-To: <90EA7086B1C740B98EC947C09E8E30A3@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <20100919183904.GCWK3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net> That is the first time I have ever heard of anything like that, and I have been in the computer field since the early 70's. I would suggest swapping keyboards to see if the problem persists. Id it does, it might have something to do with a flakey ship on your motherboard, or even some sort of virus that is changing the keyboard mapping. Good Luck, Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 11:29 AM To: triumph LIST LIST Subject: [TR] Computer Keyboard Problems! (Not Triumph related) This is extremely frustrating!! I only write a couple of emails daily and about once a week I sit down to write one and my keyboard's LAYOUT CHANGES!! I use the standard qwerty-type layout of the alphabet, but, almost all the key's are different. The 's' becomes an 'o', the original 'o' key becomes an 'r', and so forth. I think it only applies to certain programs. It even affects the cut-and-paste procedure. Please help! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Sep 19 12:56:51 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 14:56:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear scroll seal oil leak....recent subject. Message-ID: <8CD26438DD20AB1-171C-1EDAD@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Christian Marx (Germany) designed a new seal in VITON material. I have the new VITON seals and the installation instructions. I sent Chris $1350 for 20 of them...That's $67.50 each. That's your cost at the moment in North America. No markup. I have the modified scroll seals on an exchange basis or you can modify your own to a drawing. There's NO modification required for the crankshaft. Joe A. From rawanderer at comcast.net Sun Sep 19 13:49:10 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 15:49:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Computer Keyboard Problems! (Not Triumph related) In-Reply-To: <20100919183904.GCWK3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net> Message-ID: <20100919194805.9984F187650@autox.team.net> Could you have a program running that remaps the keyboard to a Dvorak keyboard? -BobW -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Sunday, 19 September, 2010 2:39 PM To: 'Paul Dorsey'; 'triumph LIST LIST' Subject: Re: [TR] Computer Keyboard Problems! (Not Triumph related) That is the first time I have ever heard of anything like that, and I have been in the computer field since the early 70's. I would suggest swapping keyboards to see if the problem persists. Id it does, it might have something to do with a flakey ship on your motherboard, or even some sort of virus that is changing the keyboard mapping. Good Luck, Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 11:29 AM To: triumph LIST LIST Subject: [TR] Computer Keyboard Problems! (Not Triumph related) This is extremely frustrating!! I only write a couple of emails daily and about once a week I sit down to write one and my keyboard's LAYOUT CHANGES!! I use the standard qwerty-type layout of the alphabet, but, almost all the key's are different. The 's' becomes an 'o', the original 'o' key becomes an 'r', and so forth. I think it only applies to certain programs. It even affects the cut-and-paste procedure. Please help! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net From wbeech at flash.net Sun Sep 19 15:07:41 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 15:07:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rear scroll seal oil leak....recent subject. In-Reply-To: <8CD26438DD20AB1-171C-1EDAD@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD26438DD20AB1-171C-1EDAD@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Joe, What is your experience with these? TR3 & 4? Bill B Mobile Bill On Sep 19, 2010, at 12:56 PM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > Christian Marx (Germany) designed a new seal in VITON material. > > I have the new VITON seals and the installation instructions. > > I sent Chris $1350 for 20 of them...That's $67.50 each. > > That's your cost at the moment in North America. No markup. > > I have the modified scroll seals on an exchange basis or you can modify your > own to a drawing. > > There's NO modification required for the crankshaft. > > Joe A. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From jimbyjove at comcast.net Sun Sep 19 16:13:40 2010 From: jimbyjove at comcast.net (Jim Coleman) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 18:13:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 - Report back Message-ID: <000701cb5847$ea855500$bf8fff00$@net> Hey Dean, Sorry trying points in lieu of the Pertronix didn't work. Before you take that tank out, etc. , have you by any chance tried running the car off an auxiliary tank? Of course, you wouldn't want to run this around town but rather just idling in your driveway. When I tried this with a similar problem you are having, it didn't run off the auxiliary tank any better than running off the fuel tank, so I'm back to square one. Maybe you might have a different outcome. Jim Coleman '64 TR4 Mechanicsville VA From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Sep 19 16:46:25 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 18:46:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Computer Keyboard Problems! (Not Triumph related) In-Reply-To: <20100919194805.9984F187650@autox.team.net> References: <20100919194805.9984F187650@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <84A9EDA580FA4DC89BFAB4F58A5F8635@BobPC> Windows has a setting that lets you remap your keyboard to a Dvoark style as well as other styles. Is someone messing with you? :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Wanderer" Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 3:49 PM To: "'Joe Curry'" ; "'Paul Dorsey'" ; "'triumph LIST LIST'" Subject: Re: [TR] Computer Keyboard Problems! (Not Triumph related) > Could you have a program running that remaps the keyboard to a Dvorak > keyboard? > -BobW > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry > Sent: Sunday, 19 September, 2010 2:39 PM > To: 'Paul Dorsey'; 'triumph LIST LIST' > Subject: Re: [TR] Computer Keyboard Problems! (Not Triumph related) > > That is the first time I have ever heard of anything like that, and I have > been in the computer field since the early 70's. I would suggest swapping > keyboards to see if the problem persists. Id it does, it might have > something to do with a flakey ship on your motherboard, or even some sort > of > virus that is changing the keyboard mapping. > > Good Luck, > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey > Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 11:29 AM > To: triumph LIST LIST > Subject: [TR] Computer Keyboard Problems! (Not Triumph related) > > This is extremely frustrating!! I only write a couple of emails daily and > about once a week I sit down to write one and my keyboard's LAYOUT > CHANGES!! > I use the standard qwerty-type layout of the alphabet, but, almost all the > key's are different. The 's' becomes an 'o', the original 'o' key becomes > an 'r', and so forth. I think it only applies to certain programs. It > even > affects the cut-and-paste procedure. Please help! > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Sep 19 16:48:24 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 18:48:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear scroll seal oil leak....recent subject. In-Reply-To: <8CD26438DD20AB1-171C-1EDAD@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD26438DD20AB1-171C-1EDAD@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <980DCED4431F4B9C8CEE9655813C4414@BobPC> Joe, Can you supply more info? Especially the models and years that it would work on. What's the difference with these seals? Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 2:56 PM To: Cc: Subject: [TR] Rear scroll seal oil leak....recent subject. > Christian Marx (Germany) designed a new seal in VITON material. > > I have the new VITON seals and the installation instructions. > > I sent Chris $1350 for 20 of them...That's $67.50 each. > > That's your cost at the moment in North America. No markup. > > I have the modified scroll seals on an exchange basis or you can modify > your > own to a drawing. > > There's NO modification required for the crankshaft. > > Joe A. From deruiterville at hotmail.com Sun Sep 19 17:14:11 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 18:14:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear scroll seal oil leak....recent subject. In-Reply-To: <8CD26438DD20AB1-171C-1EDAD@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD26438DD20AB1-171C-1EDAD@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Joe- A very timely note! I was literally installing the new seal in my 3A engine this afternoon while you were typing it. The installation was knock down simple, thanks to Chris's instructions and the modified scroll and installation tool I picked up from you. I'm very pleased so far. Fingers crossed, this will hopefully lead to a nearly spot free running engine. Even with a drop or two I'll be happy, however, as I very much like not having to machine off the scroll on the crank. Regards, Randy DeRuiter > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 14:56:51 -0400 > From: n197tr4 at cs.com > CC: tr4racing at googlemail.com > Subject: [TR] Rear scroll seal oil leak....recent subject. > > Christian Marx (Germany) designed a new seal in VITON material. > > I have the new VITON seals and the installation instructions. > > I sent Chris $1350 for 20 of them...That's $67.50 each. > > That's your cost at the moment in North America. No markup. > > I have the modified scroll seals on an exchange basis or you can modify your > own to a drawing. > > There's NO modification required for the crankshaft. > > Joe A. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Sep 19 17:35:40 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 19:35:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear scroll seal oil leak....recent subject. In-Reply-To: References: <8CD26438DD20AB1-171C-1EDAD@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD266A81679996-1F38-6A86@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> Thanks Randy! Remember to pay close attention to all areas, including the felt seal application. It should be cut in short strips, soaked in sealant, and vigorously packed in place. I am passing through the cost of the Viton Seal, but hope to supply the modified scroll seal on an exchange basis and the Centering Tool with corrected dimensions from the Factory Manual. There's more coming: Another of our racer's came up with special tool for efficient packing of the felt seal. We are going to manufacture them and call it MURPHY'S TOOL after Tim Murphy. Finally: Kas' forthcoming new book has one chapter dedicated to oil leaks and engine ventilation. We worked along side of Kas on this and Chris' new VITON Seal is featured in the book. Joe A. -----Original Message----- From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter To: Joe Alexander ; Triumph List Cc: tr4racing at googlemail.com Sent: Sun, Sep 19, 2010 6:14 pm Subject: RE: [TR] Rear scroll seal oil leak....recent subject. Joe- A very timely note! I was literally installing the new seal in my 3A engine this afternoon while you were typing it. The installation was knock down simple, thanks to Chris's instructions and the modified scroll and installation tool I picked up from you. I'm very pleased so far. Fingers crossed, this will hopefully lead to a nearly spot free running engine. Even with a drop or two I'll be happy, however, as I very much like not having to machine off the scroll on the crank. Regards, Randy DeRuiter > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 14:56:51 -0400 > From: n197tr4 at cs.com > CC: tr4racing at googlemail.com > Subject: [TR] Rear scroll seal oil leak....recent subject. > > Christian Marx (Germany) designed a new seal in VITON material. > > I have the new VITON seals and the installation instructions. > > I sent Chris $1350 for 20 of them...That's $67.50 each. > > That's your cost at the moment in North America. No markup. > > I have the modified scroll seals on an exchange basis or you can modify your > own to a drawing. > > There's NO modification required for the crankshaft. > > Joe A. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com > = From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 19 18:00:31 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 17:00:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear scroll seal oil leak....recent subject. In-Reply-To: <980DCED4431F4B9C8CEE9655813C4414@BobPC> References: <8CD26438DD20AB1-171C-1EDAD@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> <980DCED4431F4B9C8CEE9655813C4414@BobPC> Message-ID: <112101cb5856$d7c980d0$0301a8c0@randall> > Can you supply more info? Especially the models and years > that it would work > on. What's the difference with these seals? The new seal is only for the 4-cylinder "TRactor motors", ie TR2-4A, plus a few more like Vanguard, Ferguson Tractor, etc. As I understand it, the modification adds a lip-type seal in addition to the original scroll-type seal. This should solve the problem of leaky rear seals once and for all; and unlike the lip seal conversions currently on the market, requires NO modification of the crankshaft! The seal itself is a high-tech Viton seal, but the overall cost of the conversion is modest (compared to the currently available conversion), because the original aluminum scroll seal can be modified to also carry the new Viton seal. This can be done even with well-worn original seals, so no need to buy a new one. I've promised to gather up some old seals & send to Joe for modification (so he will have a few available for sale outright instead of exchange), but unfortunately haven't gotten that done yet. Real Soon Now. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 19 18:12:39 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 17:12:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Computer Keyboard Problems! (Not Triumph related) In-Reply-To: <90EA7086B1C740B98EC947C09E8E30A3@OwnerPC> References: <90EA7086B1C740B98EC947C09E8E30A3@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <112801cb5858$89d95880$0301a8c0@randall> > about once a week I sit down to write one and my keyboard's > LAYOUT CHANGES!! Try going into Control Panel/Keyboard and turning off all the "Input Locales" except the one you use (presumably US English). If others have been turned on, there are usually "hot key" sequences that switch between them. Every once in awhile, I'll fumble-finger something and put this one into Chinese! For anything beyond that, we need to know what operating system and patch level, plus how your keyboard connects. One of the USB ports on this computer is flaky, and does strange things; just moving the keyboard to a different port solved the problem. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 19 18:20:50 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 17:20:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Part Numbers In-Reply-To: <4C963178.6050403@gmail.com> References: <23635763.1284897170660.JavaMail.root@wamui-haziran.atl.sa.earthlink.net><000601cb5808$db859ae0$9290d0a0$@verizon.net> <4C963178.6050403@gmail.com> Message-ID: <112901cb5859$b0959dc0$0301a8c0@randall> > Service Instruction Manual for the Laycock - De - Normanville > Overdrive FWIW, I already have that one scanned and available on my Google Docs site (as "A-type OD manual.pdf"). http://tinyurl.com/37voevm My modest collection of Lucas catalogs is also on my list of things to do, but I'm somewhat slow due to lack of free time. If someone has a special need for just a page or two, though, I might be able to squeeze it in sooner. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 19 18:27:15 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 17:27:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine Removal TR2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <112a01cb585a$93fea070$0301a8c0@randall> > What is the opinion as regards the best way from removal and > replacement- should I take engine and box out as a unit (as I > did first time > round) or separate the two leaving the box in place? I have a > fully fitted > interior and exhaust which leads me to believe the box and > engine as a unit > would be more complicated than previously. IMO, remove both as a unit. You will have to remove the transmission tunnel anyway, to get access to the bolts. The exhaust can be left in place, disconnecting it at either the headpipe-to-manifold joint, or removing the manifold from the head (and leave it hanging on the pipe). For removing the whole engine, I generally just disconnect the headpipe-to-manifold joint and leave the manifolds on the engine until it's out. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 19 18:30:19 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 17:30:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] New Spark plug wires arc In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <112b01cb585b$01740500$0301a8c0@randall> > It > seems if the #4 wire is close to the heater pipe - it arcs through the > insulation of the wire just below where to boot ends. IMO that indicates the voltage is going too high before it jumps the plug gap. There is a limit to how much that insulation will stop (which is true of the entire system). So there may be a problem with the spark plug (or gap). Randall From dmericas at austin.rr.com Sun Sep 19 18:30:50 2010 From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (Dean Mericas) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 19:30:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 - Report back In-Reply-To: <4C963962.9090807@gmail.com> Message-ID: I put low pressure air to the line entering the fuel pump and bubbled the gas tank for a few minutes. FWIW, before and after, there was nothing at the bottom of the tank. No difference. Car still starts missing part way up my reference hill at WOT and takes a minute or two after I stop to recover and run correctly. One fewer possible causes. Dean -----Original Message----- From: Ben Zwissler [mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 11:25 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; dmericas at austin.rr.com Subject: Re: Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 407 OK, before you go to that trouble, let me tell you my history - abbreviated. Bought a 67 TR4A in pieces (age 15, 1976) after it had passed through several hands in pieces. Put it back together, mostly, started driving it shortly after age 16. Started having trouble with fuel starvation - sometimes low power sometimes no go. Went through much of what you did. Got a flashlight and peered into the fuel tank through the filler neck. Saw several "sticks" - tree limbs almost - laying on bottom of tank. Thought, hmmm, how do I get these out and could these be causing my problem? Removed the fuel line feeding the the fuel pump (no debris in the fuel bowl BTW), hooked up a bicycle pump and blew backwards through fuel line (no air compressor in those days). Car starts running. Problem solved!!!! ----at least temporarily. Temporarily turned into more or less permanently - never had time to remove the tank as long as it kept running. However, I did start carrying a bicycle pump with me after it died on me with my girlfriend in the car and a friendly local policeman gave us a ride to her folks house to borrow a bicycle pump. Got rid of the car on college graduation in 1983 having never removed or cleaned out the tank. Anyway, my recommendation - try the bicycle pump trick and see if the problem improves before you go to trouble of draining and removing the tank. Could use compressed air but be sure to turn the pressure regulator down to bicycle pump levels. Come to think of it a MityVac would be perfect with those tapered adapters. Ben..... Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 On 9/19/2010 6:49 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > I'm thinking that he next step is to drain the fuel tank and back blow the > fuel line to convince myself that there is nothing clogging it. I'm running > out of ideas if that doesn't solve the problem. This car has been > remarkably simple to maintain and reliable in the 19 years that I've had it. > This loss of power at high speed problem is getting pretty frustrating. > > Dean Mericas > Austin, TX > 1965 TR4 / 1974 2000 GTV / 1976 Giulia Nuova Super From leejohn7 at gmail.com Sun Sep 19 18:31:17 2010 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 17:31:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 - Report back In-Reply-To: <000701cb5847$ea855500$bf8fff00$@net> References: <000701cb5847$ea855500$bf8fff00$@net> Message-ID: This is so elementary I forgot to do it for months when i had the same problem with my TR4. Have you changed the in line fuel filter? John H On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 3:13 PM, Jim Coleman wrote: > Hey Dean, > > > > Sorry trying points in lieu of the Pertronix didn't work. > > > > Before you take that tank out, etc. , have you by any chance tried running > the car off an auxiliary tank? Of course, you wouldn't want to run this > around town but rather just idling in your driveway. > > > > When I tried this with a similar problem you are having, it didn't run off > the auxiliary tank any better than running off the fuel tank, so I'm back > to > square one. Maybe you might have a different outcome. > > > > Jim Coleman > > '64 TR4 > > Mechanicsville VA > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 19 18:41:04 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 17:41:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] 4 or 7 PSI radiator cap In-Reply-To: <4c96073a.103.3829.8944@cogeco.ca> References: <4c96073a.103.3829.8944@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <112f01cb585c$81b06e10$0301a8c0@randall> > Any fundimental difference between the cooling system on a 3A > vs. 3B that would explain the different recommended cap? I give up, who recommends a 7 psi cap for the TR3B but not 3A? > Waterpump, rad and hoses are new the only > possible weak point might be the heater core. IMO the heater core is the only possible problem. I've been running 10 psi for quite a few years (but I don't have a heater). I have had a few hoses fail, but I think it was just old age. New hoses don't seem to have any problem (but it is kind of important to tighten the hose clamps ) The TR3 is still running hotter than it should. We just got home from driving over 300 miles today; gauge hovered around 220F for most of the way but it didn't lose a drop of coolant even climbing Grapevine hill at 75 mph in 90+ heat. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 19 18:47:44 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 17:47:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Part Numbers In-Reply-To: <23635763.1284897170660.JavaMail.root@wamui-haziran.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <23635763.1284897170660.JavaMail.root@wamui-haziran.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <113001cb585d$709c37c0$0301a8c0@randall> > TRF uses these numbers to sell parts but do not offer any way > to easily look up their numbers. They do, actually. It's called the Spare Parts Catalogue, the TR4 version is P/N 510978. Kinda spendy, but they do offer it. It's also available from other sources (for about the same price). I found a somewhat tatty original on flea-bay for about $25, but they don't show up very often. Some years back, several listers got together and scanned the TR3 SPC; maybe you could get a group together and do the same for the TR4. You can also try checking out the Revington TR website; they have the images from the original parts catalogues, and in most cases, still list the original part numbers. Randall From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Sun Sep 19 18:59:23 2010 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 17:59:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Chome Wires Message-ID: <000001cb585f$110ec870$332c5950$@rr.com> This morning after washing the TR4A I realized the chrome wires needed a thorough cleaning. While I've had moderate success with cleaners/degreasers I thought I'd try something different . Brasso and a flexible toothbrush. Wow did they come out bright! The Brasso came off with a vigorous spray from the water hose. I have no idea if they'll stay that way for long. Anybody have other solutions/brushes ideas that they've had success with. Johnnie From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Sep 19 19:24:49 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 19:24:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <1360208215.23968.1284860453640.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1360208215.23968.1284860453640.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <954AD6B9-93A6-4297-93F1-771783C03883@comcast.net> On long trips I stretch out and put both feet under the pedals...but then I have cruise control and can put my feet most anywhere and shift around in my seat especially when there's long stretches without much traffic to worry about. I was amazed the first time I realized I could do a full body stretch while cruising along. The foot wells on a TR6 are deep. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 18, 2010, at 7:40 PM, suhringtr36 at comcast.net wrote: > Dimmer switch unless my leg gets tired on a long trip, then I will > pull it up > and keep it flat for a period of time. From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Sep 19 19:32:05 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 19:32:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] 4 or 7 PSI radiator cap In-Reply-To: <4c96073a.103.3829.8944@cogeco.ca> References: <4c96073a.103.3829.8944@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: I was wondering the same thing about the 7 psi versus 13 psi radiator caps for a TR6. The 7 psi appears (Moss catalog) to be for early cars up to 71 and the 13 psi for later cars but I've always run the 13 psi on my 71 TR6 and now I don't remember why...probably a result of advice from the list. Any ideas on what changed, why the difference might be in running temps or other considerations? Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 19, 2010, at 6:51 AM, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote: > Any fundimental difference between the cooling system on a 3A vs. 3B > that would explain the different recommended cap? > > My 4-5 year old 4PSI cap fell apart in my hands (can't remember if > it was from Moss or TRF), and since it lifts and > causes water loss under most conditions I figured I'd subsitute the > 7PSI one. Waterpump, rad and hoses are new the only > possible weak point might be the heater core. > > PS reproduction seat bracket rails falling apart before my eyes as > well. > > Thanks, > > Art > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Sep 19 19:41:06 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 19:41:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Chome Wires In-Reply-To: <000001cb585f$110ec870$332c5950$@rr.com> References: <000001cb585f$110ec870$332c5950$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4097CAA4-97AD-451A-8002-DD6BB2015CE5@comcast.net> I heard of but never tried using Mr. Bubble bathtub cleaner on alloy wheels. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 19, 2010, at 6:59 PM, John & Pat Donnelly wrote: > Anybody have other solutions/brushes ideas that they've had success > with. From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Sep 19 19:52:06 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 19:52:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Chome Wires In-Reply-To: <4097CAA4-97AD-451A-8002-DD6BB2015CE5@comcast.net> References: <000001cb585f$110ec870$332c5950$@rr.com> <4097CAA4-97AD-451A-8002-DD6BB2015CE5@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4601B7E5-0E00-4F52-870C-430023AD221E@comcast.net> Oops that should have been Scrubbing Bubbles bathroom cleaner. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 19, 2010, at 7:41 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > Mr. Bubble bathtub cleaner on alloy wheels From dave at ranteer.com Sun Sep 19 19:29:27 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 20:29:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Cleaning Chome Wires In-Reply-To: <000001cb585f$110ec870$332c5950$@rr.com> References: <000001cb585f$110ec870$332c5950$@rr.com> Message-ID: maguiers (I have no idea how to spell that) had a new product that supposedly you spray on and wash off. I haven't tried it yet. -------------------------------------------------- From: "John & Pat Donnelly" Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 7:59 PM To: Subject: [SPAM] [TR] Cleaning Chome Wires > This morning after washing the TR4A I realized the chrome wires needed a > thorough cleaning. While I've had moderate success with > cleaners/degreasers > I thought I'd try something different . Brasso and a flexible toothbrush. > Wow did they come out bright! The Brasso came off with a vigorous spray > from the water hose. I have no idea if they'll stay that way for long. > > > > Anybody have other solutions/brushes ideas that they've had success with. From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 19 20:26:13 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 22:26:13 EDT Subject: [TR] Cleaning Chome Wires Message-ID: <7c245.d7aadd4.39c82045@cs.com> In a message dated 9/19/2010 8:52:13 PM Central Daylight Time, levilevi at comcast.net writes: > Oops that should have been Scrubbing Bubbles bathroom cleaner. > Right. Mr. Bubble would be for finding leaks. Dave From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Sep 19 20:33:58 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 22:33:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Cleaning Chome Wires In-Reply-To: References: <000001cb585f$110ec870$332c5950$@rr.com>, Message-ID: I've used the Meguiar's Hot Rims Chrome Wheel Cleaner on my truck wheels and it dos a great job. You do need to use a soft brush to get the brake dust off, not just spray and rinse as advertised. Still worth using though. Marty > From: dave at ranteer.com > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 20:29:27 -0500 > Subject: Re: [TR] [SPAM] Cleaning Chome Wires > > maguiers (I have no idea how to spell that) had a new product that > supposedly you spray on and wash off. I haven't tried it yet. > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "John & Pat Donnelly" > Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 7:59 PM > To: > Subject: [SPAM] [TR] Cleaning Chome Wires > > > This morning after washing the TR4A I realized the chrome wires needed a > > thorough cleaning. While I've had moderate success with > > cleaners/degreasers > > I thought I'd try something different . Brasso and a flexible toothbrush. > > Wow did they come out bright! The Brasso came off with a vigorous spray > > from the water hose. I have no idea if they'll stay that way for long. > > > > > > > > Anybody have other solutions/brushes ideas that they've had success with. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trmarty at hotmail.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 19 20:59:28 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 19:59:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] 4 or 7 PSI radiator cap In-Reply-To: References: <4c96073a.103.3829.8944@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <115201cb586f$d7686bb0$0301a8c0@randall> > Any ideas on what changed, why the difference might be in running > temps or other considerations? Raising the pressure makes no difference to normal operating temperature, as that is controlled by the thermostat. In theory, it does give slightly better cooling (meaning the thermostat stays more nearly closed under normal operating conditions), but in practice I've never seen a difference. The big difference is that higher pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant, which makes the engine less likely to boil over in conditions where cooling is inadequate. A very common example is when stopping suddenly after a high speed run (like pulling over in a rest stop); the higher pressure cap helps prevent the little puddles of coolant. For the TR6, I believe the cap changed when the engine was further detuned for emissions, in 1973. The emissions changes also increased the heat generated, so the higher pressure cap helped prevent boilover. Or it may have been an attempt to counter the popular notion that all Triumphs overheat. In 1972, the Stag cooling system got a complete makeover, which included going from a 13 psi cap to 20 psi! Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sun Sep 19 23:10:18 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 23:10:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] Engine Removal TR2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4045D2650D3D45ACB00BA5B95535A4A6@bboffice> John, I had to do this last winter for the same reasons you cite, newly re-built Moss rear main kit leaked like the proverbial sieve. Now it just leaks like a Triumph. There are indeed two schools of thought here, but I will side with they who advise removing the complete unit. -Remember, even if you want to leave the gear box behind you will still have to remove and protect your interior as you remove the trans tunnel. -The exhaust is pretty simple and will have to go regardless of your decision. -Reinstallation means you will be attempting to re-align the gear box whilst working all around the car:engine compartment, interior and from below. -working alone from start to finish it took me 6 hours to have the engine/trans unit out and on the ground. (first time I have ever pulled a TR motor from a completed car) All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 7:58 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Engine Removal TR2 I have finally accepted it is time to remove my "rebuilt engine" to deal with the incontinent rear crank seal. I intend to remove the front nose/panel and radiator. What is the opinion as regards the best way from removal and replacement- should I take engine and box out as a unit (as I did first time round) or separate the two leaving the box in place? I have a fully fitted interior and exhaust which leads me to believe the box and engine as a unit would be more complicated than previously. Regards John _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 19 23:19:52 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 22:19:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <1519015033.222678.1284780860654.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <110320061923.28739.454B973A000BB3ED0000704322058863609D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> <1519015033.222678.1284780860654.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <117b01cb5883$74e732a0$0301a8c0@randall> > And of course, so does the Stag! Ok, now that you have mentioned that ... was that on all Stags, or only on those that started out with automatic transmissions? LE1473L has the captive nuts, but no indication anything was ever installed there, while LE2013LBW (which, like Uncle Jack I believe, started life with an auto box and got converted) has the dummy pedal. FWIW, in the TR3, I put my foot on the dimmer switch during the daytime, and on the edge of the dimmer bracket at night. Randall From dmericas at austin.rr.com Mon Sep 20 07:08:57 2010 From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 13:08:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 - Report back In-Reply-To: <4C96BBA3.8080009@gmail.com> Message-ID: <20100920130857.LNBJ2.6471.root@hrndva-web21-z01> Thanks for the suggestions Ben. Regarding #1, the fuel pump is pretty low on the TR4 block, and I believe the level of the inlet is almost always below the fuel level in the tank. I've had problems with a nearly full tank. I would expect to see some fuel leakage if there was a cracked rubber hose, but I'll try putting in all new hoses when I drain the system. Regarding #2, I swapped out the pump with a good spare that I had on the shelf, with no effect whatsoever. Regarding recovery time, a few moments is probably more accurate. It recovers immediately if I back off the throttle. It takes longer if I the push on, for example to continue up the hill. Dean ---- Ben Zwissler wrote: > OK, two more suggestions. Both based on the fact you get this problem > only going uphill. > > Suggestion 1. Going back to 1979, there's a parking lot outside our > dorm that has a slight grade (nose up). Roommate's car won't start when > parked in that position. Starts and runs fine anywhere else. Plymouth > coupe with tank mounted under trunk. With nose up fuel level is below > fuel pump inlet. There's a crack in the rubber hose at the fuel pump > inlet. When fuel level is below pump inlet, pump draws air rather than > fuel. Replace hose and problem solved. > > Suggestion 2. Similar issue, but problem is in fuel pump. Leaking > one-way valve on inlet behaves like cracked fuel line. Same issue if > there's crack in the diaphragm. Solution, replace or rebuild fuel pump > or try an in-line electric pump. Crack in diaphragm can also cause some > fuel to go to crankcase so adding an electric pump when you have a > cracked diaphragm will push more fuel into the crankcase. Watch for > rising oil levels... > > Does it really take a minute or two to recover? That seem likes a long > time for a fuel supply problem, starts to sound like something else again. > > Ben...... > > Ben Zwissler > bjzwissler at gmail.com > Columbus, IN > 1966 Triumph TR4A > 1973 MG Midget > 1980 Triumph TR8 > 2007 Mazda RX8 > 2002 Yamaha FZ1 > 2003 Honda ST1300 From dmericas at austin.rr.com Mon Sep 20 07:09:30 2010 From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 13:09:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 - Report back Message-ID: <20100920130931.A98YO.6478.root@hrndva-web21-z01> Thanks for the suggestions Ben. Regarding #1, the fuel pump is pretty low on the TR4 block, and I believe the level of the inlet is almost always below the fuel level in the tank. I've had problems with a nearly full tank. I would expect to see some fuel leakage if there was a cracked rubber hose, but I'll try putting in all new hoses when I drain the system. Regarding #2, I swapped out the pump with a good spare that I had on the shelf, with no effect whatsoever. Regarding recovery time, a few moments is probably more accurate. It recovers immediately if I back off the throttle. It takes longer if I the push on, for example to continue up the hill. Dean ---- Ben Zwissler wrote: > OK, two more suggestions. Both based on the fact you get this problem > only going uphill. > > Suggestion 1. Going back to 1979, there's a parking lot outside our > dorm that has a slight grade (nose up). Roommate's car won't start when > parked in that position. Starts and runs fine anywhere else. Plymouth > coupe with tank mounted under trunk. With nose up fuel level is below > fuel pump inlet. There's a crack in the rubber hose at the fuel pump > inlet. When fuel level is below pump inlet, pump draws air rather than > fuel. Replace hose and problem solved. > > Suggestion 2. Similar issue, but problem is in fuel pump. Leaking > one-way valve on inlet behaves like cracked fuel line. Same issue if > there's crack in the diaphragm. Solution, replace or rebuild fuel pump > or try an in-line electric pump. Crack in diaphragm can also cause some > fuel to go to crankcase so adding an electric pump when you have a > cracked diaphragm will push more fuel into the crankcase. Watch for > rising oil levels... > > Does it really take a minute or two to recover? That seem likes a long > time for a fuel supply problem, starts to sound like something else again. > > Ben...... > > Ben Zwissler > bjzwissler at gmail.com > Columbus, IN > 1966 Triumph TR4A > 1973 MG Midget > 1980 Triumph TR8 > 2007 Mazda RX8 > 2002 Yamaha FZ1 > 2003 Honda ST1300 From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Mon Sep 20 07:40:32 2010 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 08:40:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Chrome Wires Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E68BEA3@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> The Maguiar's wheel cleaner that is approved for Dayton chrome wire wheels works quite well. Agitation with a cloth or brush helps a lot, but I found the best cleaning is achieved using a power washer with a rotating nozzle to blast the product and dirt away. Brian Valley Forge, PA From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Mon Sep 20 13:14:20 2010 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 14:14:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Chrome Wires Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E68C11B@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> Apologies: I mis-typed. The product I have had success with is the Griot chrome wheel cleaner that is approved by Dayton: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+care/wheels+%26+tires/wheel+tire+clea ners/chrome+wheel+cleaner%2C+35+ounces.do Again, it needs some agitation and a pressure washer with a spinning head to work satisfactorily, to my experience. Regards, Brian From hdrider570 at att.net Mon Sep 20 15:17:12 2010 From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 14:17:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 Message-ID: <391491.87507.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> My 1973 Federal Stag LE23580 UO (4 Speed Overdrive) has the dummy pedal. Both of my TR7s and my TR8 have them as well. All 5 speeds. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 15:29:26 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 14:29:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <391491.87507.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <391491.87507.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> Please please let this thread die!!!!!!! Every time I see the thread title I start humming a song "Put your left foot in Take your left foot out shake it all around and ..." Please stop! From bjzwissler at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 15:36:17 2010 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 17:36:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 - Report back In-Reply-To: <20100920130931.A98YO.6478.root@hrndva-web21-z01> References: <20100920130931.A98YO.6478.root@hrndva-web21-z01> Message-ID: <4C97D3D1.6000501@gmail.com> Running out of ideas.... "It recovers immediately if I back off the throttle." That sounds absolutely like fuel starvation, except about everything that would cause that has been suggested and you've checked. I'd check and recheck anything that could cause low fuel delivery to the carbs. Also check the carbs themselves, are the dashpots free to move all the way through their travel? Are they Strombergs or SUs? I second the motion on trying an electric (Facet) fuel pump if all else fails. Maybe clean/replace the float bowl valves. Remove and clean the main jets themselves, maybe some dirt blocking them. If SUs maybe the flexible line to the jet is kinked or blocked? Ben..... Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 On 9/20/2010 9:09 AM, dmericas at austin.rr.com wrote: > Thanks for the suggestions Ben. > > Regarding #1, the fuel pump is pretty low on the TR4 block, and I believe the level of the inlet is almost always below the fuel level in the tank. I've had problems with a nearly full tank. I would expect to see some fuel leakage if there was a cracked rubber hose, but I'll try putting in all new hoses when I drain the system. > > Regarding #2, I swapped out the pump with a good spare that I had on the shelf, with no effect whatsoever. > > Regarding recovery time, a few moments is probably more accurate. It recovers immediately if I back off the throttle. It takes longer if I the push on, for example to continue up the hill. > > Dean > > ---- Ben Zwissler wrote: > >> OK, two more suggestions. Both based on the fact you get this problem >> only going uphill. >> >> Suggestion 1. Going back to 1979, there's a parking lot outside our >> dorm that has a slight grade (nose up). Roommate's car won't start when >> parked in that position. Starts and runs fine anywhere else. Plymouth >> coupe with tank mounted under trunk. With nose up fuel level is below >> fuel pump inlet. There's a crack in the rubber hose at the fuel pump >> inlet. When fuel level is below pump inlet, pump draws air rather than >> fuel. Replace hose and problem solved. >> >> Suggestion 2. Similar issue, but problem is in fuel pump. Leaking >> one-way valve on inlet behaves like cracked fuel line. Same issue if >> there's crack in the diaphragm. Solution, replace or rebuild fuel pump >> or try an in-line electric pump. Crack in diaphragm can also cause some >> fuel to go to crankcase so adding an electric pump when you have a >> cracked diaphragm will push more fuel into the crankcase. Watch for >> rising oil levels... >> >> Does it really take a minute or two to recover? That seem likes a long >> time for a fuel supply problem, starts to sound like something else again. >> >> Ben...... >> >> Ben Zwissler >> bjzwissler at gmail.com >> Columbus, IN >> 1966 Triumph TR4A >> 1973 MG Midget >> 1980 Triumph TR8 >> 2007 Mazda RX8 >> 2002 Yamaha FZ1 >> 2003 Honda ST1300 From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Mon Sep 20 16:35:30 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 17:35:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> References: <391491.87507.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>, <4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> Message-ID: Put you left arm in Take you left arm out... Someone had to do it! %^) Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 14:29:26 -0700 > From: tjwakeman at gmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 > > Please please let this thread die!!!!!!! > > Every time I see the thread title I start humming a song > > "Put your left foot in > Take your left foot out > shake it all around and ..." > > Please stop! > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Sep 20 17:12:37 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 19:12:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A heater reinstall question...no feet. Message-ID: <76EEC65956874A999782702DB3402179@valued9cfc0b6f> When reinstalling the heater, does the bracket get attached first to the firewall and two lower supports without the heater attached or does it have to be attached to the brackets first. With new heater hoses in place its just a bit tight to get that stud up thru the firewall. Kinda struggling, any help and logical steps, other than read the Haynes "reassembly is the reverse of disassembly process," would be appreciated. Thanks Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Sep 20 17:29:55 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 23:29:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A heater reinstall question...no feet. In-Reply-To: <76EEC65956874A999782702DB3402179@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <1183276239.1121023.1285025395924.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Dunno about the "right" way, but I've managed fine putting the hoses on and then the firewall bracket, before lastly coming underneath for the dash brackets. Terry From wbeech at flash.net Mon Sep 20 18:46:53 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 18:46:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 In-Reply-To: References: <391491.87507.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>, <4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2968ED2DC4834FF8A381CEE5C3AE2FF2@bboffice> Funny you should mention it. I was wondering if anyone has found, or devised, a shield for the leather capping on the driver's side for a TR3 application. I prefer to drive with my left arm out, but I worry that over time it will discolor the red leather. Something that you could put on and remove quickly and easily. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 4:36 PM To: TR owners List Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 Put you left arm in Take you left arm out... Someone had to do it! %^) Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 14:29:26 -0700 > From: tjwakeman at gmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 > > Please please let this thread die!!!!!!! > > Every time I see the thread title I start humming a song > > "Put your left foot in > Take your left foot out > shake it all around and ..." > > Please stop! > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Sep 20 19:23:09 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 20:23:09 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 Message-ID: <1142631697.152777.1285032189506.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net> How about a long sleeve shirt? Craig 72 Triumph TR6 Sep 20, 2010 06:38:25 PM, rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com wrote: Put you left arm in Take you left arm out... Someone had to do it! %^) Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 14:29:26 -0700 > From: tjwakeman at gmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 > > Please please let this thread die!!!!!!! > > Every time I see the thread title I start humming a song > > "Put your left foot in > Take your left foot out > shake it all around and ..." > > Please stop! > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From guy at genfiniti.com Mon Sep 20 20:59:33 2010 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 21:59:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Handbrake Cable Routing Message-ID: All, Can someone tell me how to properly route the handbrake cables for a TR4A? Right now they exit the rear brake attachment, go back then loop forward passing between the rear cross member and the body tub, then on through the holes and into the tub itself. Surely this cannot be right, because they will be pinched between the tub and the cross member, but for the life of me I cannot find an alternative. Also, does anyone know where I can source the button that one depresses to lower the handbrake lever. I've got the rod, but the end is exposed, and it hurts to push on. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 20 21:01:34 2010 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 20:01:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop Shell FS Message-ID: <16485.88760.qm@web51302.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Please forgive the shameless self promotion... TR6 hardtop shell (no glass bows or hardware), some rust to rear legs but salvageable, mount for one of the rubber feet is rusted away on one C pillar but if you can use a wire welder this may be a viable replacement for a damaged shell or one with worse rot. I can send a few pics to interested parties. Price $50.00 Personal pick up only in Racine, WI - sorry my schedule precludes me being able to be available for commercial collection (it fits in a Honda mini-van and may fit in others) Best wishes Steve From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 21:15:49 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 20:15:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 In-Reply-To: References: <391491.87507.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>, <4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C982365.2040300@gmail.com> On 9/20/10 3:35 PM, Rich White wrote: > Put you left arm in > Take you left arm out... > > Someone had to do it! %^) > > AAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!! From bill_beecher at flash.net Mon Sep 20 23:44:07 2010 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 23:44:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Sighted in new fall series ad Message-ID: <8C9D0ECDAB39469D854B5403D4F9AFF2@bboffice> Did my eyes deceive me or did I see a black TR3A tonight in the ad for the new NBC show "Undercovers" ? I wonder if it will be his regular car, a la The Saint and his P-1800 Volvo? Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From twr at skybeam.com Mon Sep 20 22:44:02 2010 From: twr at skybeam.com (Todd W. Richmond) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 22:44:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> References: <391491.87507.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1285044242.4097.0.camel@localhost.localdomain> Oh Great! I was fine until you started that up! ;) Todd Richmond On Mon, 2010-09-20 at 14:29 -0700, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: > Please please let this thread die!!!!!!! > > Every time I see the thread title I start humming a song > > "Put your left foot in > Take your left foot out > shake it all around and ..." > > Please stop! > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/twr at skybeam.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 21 06:03:50 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:03:50 EDT Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 Message-ID: <22b46c.3196c2ad.39c9f926@cs.com> At least it wasn't the "Duck Dance!" Dave In a message dated 9/21/2010 6:44:15 AM Central Daylight Time, twr at skybeam.com writes: > Oh Great! I was fine until you started that up! > > ;) > > Todd Richmond > > On Mon, 2010-09-20 at 14:29 -0700, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: > >Please please let this thread die!!!!!!! > > > >Every time I see the thread title I start humming a song > > > >"Put your left foot in > >Take your left foot out > >shake it all around and ..." From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 06:41:26 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:41:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <2968ED2DC4834FF8A381CEE5C3AE2FF2@bboffice> Message-ID: <2130201841.1960250.1285072886888.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Fred Thomas has a plexiglass molded arm rest that attaches to the side curtain brackets. Maybe he can supply a picture and where he got it. I'd like one, too. Tom Fansher ----- Original Message ----- From: wbeech at flash.net To: "Rich White" , "TR owners List" Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 8:46:53 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 Funny you should mention it. I was wondering if anyone has found, or devised, a shield for the leather capping on the driver's side for a TR3 application. I prefer to drive with my left arm out, but I worry that over time it will discolor the red leather. Something that you could put on and remove quickly and easily. Bill From FordneyNJ at aol.com Tue Sep 21 07:38:15 2010 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 09:38:15 EDT Subject: [TR] re Cleaning Chrome Wires Message-ID: <2f983.657870cb.39ca0f47@aol.com> Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 14:14:20 -0500 From: "Brian Jones" Subject: [TR] Cleaning Chrome Wires To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E68C11B at 019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Apologies: I mis-typed. The product I have had success with is the Griot chrome wheel cleaner that is approved by Dayton: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+care/wheels+%26+tires/wheel+tire+cle a ners/chrome+wheel+cleaner%2C+35+ounces.do Again, it needs some agitation and a pressure washer with a spinning head to work satisfactorily, to my experience. My head is spinning just thinking about it. Rodney From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Sep 21 07:44:44 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:44:44 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 Message-ID: <31482150.1812562.1285076684892.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> From jmitch at snet.net Tue Sep 21 08:53:06 2010 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 10:53:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 air rail threads Message-ID: <4C98C6D2.5020803@snet.net> Does anyone know what size threads are on a late model TR6 air rail where it attaches to the exhaust manifold? I'm thinking it's a NPT thread, but I'm not real sure. I want to pick up a tap to chase the threads in the manifold after ceramic coating. Thanks for any help. John Mitchell 76TR6 72 Stag From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 21 09:51:16 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:51:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <2130201841.1960250.1285072886888.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <2968ED2DC4834FF8A381CEE5C3AE2FF2@bboffice> <2130201841.1960250.1285072886888.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <133201cb59a4$d4657a80$0301a8c0@randall> > Fred Thomas has a plexiglass molded arm rest that attaches to > the side curtain brackets. Maybe he can supply a picture and > where he got it. I'd like one, too. I think Fred fabricated his own, inspired by some that Herman van den Akker made up some years ago. However, the purpose was not arm rest, but rather a wind deflector. They don't really provide any protection for the top rail, but you could probably do something similar that would. Not too complicated, just a bent piece of metal to fit into the front side curtain bracket, and a piece of Plexiglas bent to roughly follow the contour of the top rail. I've taken the liberty of posting some photos that Fred sent me a few years back at: http://tinyurl.com/2wh229u I thought I had some photos of Heidi van den Akker's TR3A with Herman's version, but I can't find them at the moment. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 21 11:01:33 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 10:01:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Part Numbers In-Reply-To: References: <23635763.1284897170660.JavaMail.root@wamui-haziran.atl.sa.earthlink.net><000601cb5808$db859ae0$9290d0a0$@verizon.net><4C963178.6050403@gmail.com> <112901cb5859$b0959dc0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <35d801cb59ae$a59ca840$f0d5f8c0$@rr.com> Ron wrote: > I went to the site you listed for the overdrive manual which you listed > in your email below. All I am getting is a blank page. My apologies to all. That link used to work, but apparently now it only works if you are already logged into Google Docs. However, this one seems to work: http://tinyurl.com/56gylc You will need to create and log into a Google Docs account, which has gotten harder than it used to be but is still free. Just several hoops to be jumped through, including giving them a valid phone number to prove you are a real person (??). If I find time, I'll try to rehost onto an FTP site somewhere, but it probably won't happen this year. There are a few other documents included that TR3 owners might find useful, including the Spare Parts Catalogue, workshop manual, Practical Hints, Lucas generator testing guide and so on. There is also a copy of the training notes for 1973 Triumph emission control systems that might be helpful for owners of later cars and a few other goodies. I'll add more as time permits, so check back from time to time. -- Randall From pethier at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 12:02:44 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 18:02:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Sighted in new fall series ad In-Reply-To: <8C9D0ECDAB39469D854B5403D4F9AFF2@bboffice> Message-ID: <2021114739.149667.1285092164504.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> That would make you look pretty hip, wouldn't it. One of the regulars on "Thirtysomething" had a TR6. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "bill beecher" > To: "TR owners List" > Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 12:44:07 AM > Subject: [TR] TR3 Sighted in new fall series ad > > Did my eyes deceive me or did I see a black TR3A tonight in the ad for > the > new NBC show "Undercovers" ? I wonder if it will be his regular car, > a la > The Saint and his P-1800 Volvo? > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is > called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Tue Sep 21 12:30:01 2010 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 13:30:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Sighted in new fall series ad In-Reply-To: <2021114739.149667.1285092164504.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2021114739.149667.1285092164504.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1E4A8978-13A9-4FA7-B193-E539BB663201@stevethorntonlaw.com> List- When in Sears a few weeks ago, I noticed the box of a battery charger they sell featured a bright yellow TR 3A. A newer version of the same product replaced the Triumph with a modern bright yellow Pontiac convertible- their version of a Miata. I suppose Sears likes yellow cars and defunct manufacturers. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY Sent from my iPhone On Sep 21, 2010, at 1:08 PM, "pethier at comcast.net" wrote: > That would make you look pretty hip, wouldn't it. > > One of the regulars on "Thirtysomething" had a TR6. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" > 2004 Suburban 8.1 > 2005 Lotus Elise > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org > http://www.mnautox.com > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "bill beecher" > > To: "TR owners List" > > Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 12:44:07 AM > > Subject: [TR] TR3 Sighted in new fall series ad > > > > Did my eyes deceive me or did I see a black TR3A tonight in the ad for > > the > > new NBC show "Undercovers" ? I wonder if it will be his regular car, > > a la > > The Saint and his P-1800 Volvo? > > > > Bill Beecher > > '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is > > called...of > > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.co m From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Sep 21 14:10:29 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 13:10:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <2968ED2DC4834FF8A381CEE5C3AE2FF2@bboffice> References: <391491.87507.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> <2968ED2DC4834FF8A381CEE5C3AE2FF2@bboffice> Message-ID: On 9/20/10, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > ...a shield for the leather capping on the driver's side for a TR3 > application. I prefer to drive with my left arm out, but I worry that over > time it will discolor the red leather. For driving my TR4 (which really requires the left arm out for comfort) I use just the sleeve hacked from an old sweatshirt (cool weather) or a long-sleeved T-shirt (hot weather). Very stylish in a Michael Jackson sort of way. Geo From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue Sep 21 14:09:09 2010 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 15:09:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Where to put Left arm in a TR3 Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E68C5C0@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> Perspex arm rest to protect the TR3 capping leather, Bill? I guess one man's discolored leather in another man's patina. If you feel you need to protect the leather, another flap of leather, attached to the side curtain bracket, or maybe a cloth, will be easier to set up and more comfortable to use, I imagine. Brian From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Sep 21 14:31:00 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 20:31:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 In-Reply-To: References: <391491.87507.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> <2968ED2DC4834FF8A381CEE5C3AE2FF2@bboffice> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C7D9AD@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> So that would make you what, the sleeved one ? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 4:10 PM To: wbeech at flash.net Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left ARM in a TR6 On 9/20/10, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > ...a shield for the leather capping on the driver's side for a TR3 > application. I prefer to drive with my left arm out, but I worry that > over time it will discolor the red leather. For driving my TR4 (which really requires the left arm out for comfort) I use just the sleeve hacked from an old sweatshirt (cool weather) or a long-sleeved T-shirt (hot weather). Very stylish in a Michael Jackson sort of way. Geo From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Sep 21 16:34:38 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 18:34:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Handbrake Cable Routing References: Message-ID: <5C44F6B35EC240C09A29E137EABB48A7@userb38463fba5> Guy, I didn't see a response so here goes. The cables are not pinched between the body and the frame. It looks like they would be there is room for them to cross the cross member. The body should not sit on that cross member. As for the button, give Scott Harper a call at 330-392-7176, he may have what you need. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Guy D. Huggins" To: ; Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 10:59 PM Subject: [TR] TR4A - Handbrake Cable Routing > All, > > Can someone tell me how to properly route the handbrake cables for a TR4A? > Right now they exit the rear brake attachment, go back then loop forward > passing between the rear cross member and the body tub, then on through > the > holes and into the tub itself. > Surely this cannot be right, because they will be pinched between the tub > and > the cross member, but for the life of me I cannot find an alternative. > > Also, does anyone know where I can source the button that one depresses to > lower the handbrake lever. > I've got the rod, but the end is exposed, and it hurts to push on. > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO > > Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From dwillner at ptd.net Tue Sep 21 17:35:44 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 19:35:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A heater reinstalled easily, red in face... Message-ID: <78726F3C97FF4FECAFB0219A43B0D2D7@valued9cfc0b6f> Had the bracket mounted on the heater wrong, all is well, can sleep tonight... (had only looked at the picture 20 times)...ugh, happens...Sorry Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged ----- Original Message ----- From: davewillner To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 7:12 PM Subject: TR3A heater reinstall question...no feet. When reinstalling the heater, does the bracket get attached first to the firewall and two lower supports without the heater attached or does it have to be attached to the brackets first. With new heater hoses in place its just a bit tight to get that stud up thru the firewall. Kinda struggling, any help and logical steps, other than read the Haynes "reassembly is the reverse of disassembly process," would be appreciated. Thanks Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Sep 21 20:55:21 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:55:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Empty Enclosed Trailer from SOCAL TO MIDWEST in OCTOBER Message-ID: <8CD2818BB7CDCFC-15D8-681A@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com> Triumph Guys, I have a number of return candidates, but nothing firm yet. Looking for the best situation. Do you have a car to transport? It should be at least a roller. I have an electric winch. Joe Alexander From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Sep 21 21:32:53 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 20:32:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats Message-ID: <249696.21749.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Listers, Thinking ahead to re-building the seats on my tr-3 using vinyl from one of the big 3 vendors. I'll be using something other than the new springs available but am wondering about the padding kit. Can a person purchase the same material at a local fabric shop? Or possibly simply use foam? Has anyone re-built they're own seats with materials other than the hessian? gary n. From pethier at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 21:37:21 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 03:37:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Empty Enclosed Trailer from SOCAL TO MIDWEST in OCTOBER In-Reply-To: <8CD2818BB7CDCFC-15D8-681A@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1122375184.182342.1285126641206.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> You can also post this to autotransport at yahoogroups.com Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: n197tr4 at cs.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 9:55:21 PM > Subject: [TR] Empty Enclosed Trailer from SOCAL TO MIDWEST in OCTOBER > > Triumph Guys, > > I have a number of return candidates, but nothing firm yet. Looking > for the > best situation. > > Do you have a car to transport? It should be at least a roller. I have > an > electric winch. > > Joe Alexander > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From mark at bradakis.com Tue Sep 21 22:19:55 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:19:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph Part Numbers In-Reply-To: <35d801cb59ae$a59ca840$f0d5f8c0$@rr.com> References: <23635763.1284897170660.JavaMail.root@wamui-haziran.atl.sa.earthlink.net><000601cb5808$db859ae0$9290d0a0$@verizon.net><4C963178.6050403@gmail.com> <112901cb5859$b0959dc0$0301a8c0@randall> <35d801cb59ae$a59ca840$f0d5f8c0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4C9983EB.5070300@bradakis.com> > If I find time, I'll try to rehost onto an FTP site somewhere, but it > probably won't happen this year. ftp.team.net? I *really* need to redo the Team.Net web layout. mjb. From tfansher at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 06:42:27 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:42:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats In-Reply-To: <249696.21749.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <62717704.2029659.1285159347933.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I'll wade in with a couple of things. The new springs from TRF have a flat metal ring on the top that are more comfortable and are like the original springs. Some others have a round metal rod around the outside at the top of the springs. I have the new springs and they are comfortable. I used the padding kit from TRF and had to add a little bit of rolled cotton - actually cast padding from the hospital to fill in voids. The heavy pad for the inside of the back of the seat is formed to fit and I opted to use the new one in place of a 25 or so year old one on the seat. My thoughts were that it would have had to have packed down some and I wanted to best look I could get. I don't know if those are "normally available" raw materials from an upholstery shop. If so that could be an option. All in all, I'm really happy with how the seats and interior turned out. Come see her at Jekyll Island in Modified Touring. Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A at VTR 62 TR4 73 Stag at VTR Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats Listers, Thinking ahead to re-building the seats on my tr-3 using vinyl from one of the big 3 vendors. I'll be using something other than the new springs available but am wondering about the padding kit. Can a person purchase the same material at a local fabric shop? Or possibly simply use foam? Has anyone re-built they're own seats with materials other than the hessian? From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Sep 22 09:24:03 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 10:24:03 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats Message-ID: <1875753912.1565356.1285169043286.JavaMail.root@vznit170074> From dlylis at gmail.com Wed Sep 22 10:29:29 2010 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 16:29:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats In-Reply-To: <249696.21749.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <249696.21749.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, After tiring of the uncomfortable, smelly condititon of my seats, I gave some thought to doing them in a manner that does not require financing. While sitting in the doctors office in one of those chairs with a metal frame, form shaped seat with closed cell foam and fabric covered, I had a Eureka moment. I made a frame out of 3/4 ply and then bent 1/4 ply to form the dish shape that slopes front to back according to the height, shape, and slope of the original seat. I then covered with 1" closed cell foam from Goodyear, 2" open cell upholstery foam, then about 1" cotton batting. You need to take all this into account when making the frame or it will be too high Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Gary Nafziger Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 20:32:53 To: Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats Listers, Thinking ahead to re-building the seats on my tr-3 using vinyl from one of the big 3 vendors. I'll be using something other than the new springs available but am wondering about the padding kit. Can a person purchase the same material at a local fabric shop? Or possibly simply use foam? Has anyone re-built they're own seats with materials other than the hessian? gary n. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com From dlylis at gmail.com Wed Sep 22 10:37:59 2010 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 16:37:59 +0000 Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats In-Reply-To: <249696.21749.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <249696.21749.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, part 2 I then wrapped it all in gauze soaked in diluted wood glue adhesive to bind it all together. I then put another layer of batting on top and put the seat cover over and stapled under into the bottom of the wood frame. They are comfortable, more firm than the springs, and infinitely less expensive. My seat backs were still in very good shape so I didn't tackle that. I don't think the backs are all that complicated. Please don't ask for pics as they were stored on a Dell laptop and the motherboard had a meltdown before it could be backed up. Sorry. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Gary Nafziger Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 20:32:53 To: Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats Listers, Thinking ahead to re-building the seats on my tr-3 using vinyl from one of the big 3 vendors. I'll be using something other than the new springs available but am wondering about the padding kit. Can a person purchase the same material at a local fabric shop? Or possibly simply use foam? Has anyone re-built they're own seats with materials other than the hessian? gary n. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 22 10:56:27 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 09:56:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Want to meet me for a beer? Message-ID: <180588.28204.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List! I'm leaving for VTR this Sunday-9.26.10. If there is anyone in the Knoxville, TN area that would like to meet me for a beer on Wed. night- 9-29-10, then please E-mail me. If there is anyone living in the Athens, GA area that would like to meet me for a beer on Thur. night 9-30-10, then please E-mail me. Would "Jeff" fishplate at charter.net, Jeff from Athens, please E-mail me. TIA, -Cosmo Kramer From jmitch at snet.net Wed Sep 22 11:43:01 2010 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 13:43:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 air rail threads In-Reply-To: References: <4C98C6D2.5020803@snet.net> Message-ID: <4C9A4025.7060303@snet.net> Thanks, that helps. I guess my next question would be, are brake line connections a tapered thread? John Mitchell On 9/22/2010 12:54 PM, James_ TR6 wrote: > I replaced these myself years ago...I may have some spare piping with > flange nuts to check the threads. > I'll look around. > fyi, I believe i used basic brake line tubing and I cut/bent as needed > and the threads were perfectly matched > to what the auto store had in stock. > > -j > > > Does anyone know what size threads are on a late model TR6 air > > rail where it attaches to the exhaust manifold? I'm thinking it's a NPT > > thread, but I'm not real sure. I want to pick up a tap to chase the > > threads in the manifold after ceramic coating. Thanks for any help. > > John Mitchell 76TR6 72 Stag > > _______________________________________________ From tr6parts at charter.net Wed Sep 22 11:50:36 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 13:50:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Want to meet me for a beer? References: <180588.28204.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <130E10EB62E945088F4CD34C22D4DDAF@Alan> Your leaving a little early for the VTR, aren't you? Should be Oct 17. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cosmo Kramer" To: Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 12:56 PM Subject: [TR] Want to meet me for a beer? > Hi List! > I'm leaving for VTR this Sunday-9.26.10. If there is anyone in the > Knoxville, > TN area that would like to meet me for a beer on Wed. night- 9-29-10, then > please E-mail me. > > If there is anyone living in the Athens, GA area that would like to meet > me > for a beer on Thur. night 9-30-10, then please E-mail me. > > Would "Jeff" fishplate at charter.net, Jeff from Athens, please E-mail me. > TIA, > -Cosmo Kramer > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Sep 22 13:28:48 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:28:48 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats Message-ID: <763816485.1585496.1285183728273.JavaMail.root@vznit170074> re-sending in plain text. I thought I had fixed that 'rich formatting' issue. Sep 22, 2010 03:24:03 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote: > > I did check around (with samples) at a couple upholstery shops before I purchased >the material. They did not have 'exact' items but did have materials that >could be used. Neither one could answer the question "would yours last longer >than this type" other than "they have seats installed for 3-5-7 years and they still >appear as new". One would not use customer supplied material and >still provide a warranty, the other would 'for "workmanship" only. >I still haven't decided whether i will rebuild myself or pay the $100-125 to have >it done. I did get the TRF materials - both innards and skins. Carl > >Sep 22, 2010 12:43:18 PM, tfansher at comcast.net wrote: > >>I'll wade in with >a couple of things. The new springs from TRF have a flat metal >>ring on the top that are >>more comfortable and are like the original springs. Some others have a round > >>metal rod around the outside >>at the top of the springs. I have the new springs and they are comfortable. > >> >>I used the padding kit from TRF and had to add a little bit of rolled cotton > >>- actually cast padding from >>the hospital to fill in voids. The heavy pad for the inside of the back of >the >>seat is formed to fit and I opted to >>use the new one in place of a 25 or so year old one on the seat. My thoughts > >>were that it would have had to >>have packed down some and I wanted to best look I could get. I don't know > >>if those are "normally available" >>raw materials from an upholstery shop. If so that could be an option. All >in >>all, I'm really happy with how the seats and interior turned out. Come see >her >>at Jekyll Island in Modified Touring. >>Tom >>60 TR3A >>61 TR3A at VTR >>62 TR4 >>73 Stag at VTR >> >>Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats >> >>Listers, >>Thinking ahead to re-building the seats on my tr-3 using vinyl from one of >the >> >>big 3 vendors. I'll be using something other than the new springs available > >>but >>am wondering about the padding kit. Can a person purchase the same material > >>at >>a local fabric shop? Or possibly simply use foam? Has anyone re-built they're > >> >>own seats with materials other than the hessian? >> >>_______________________________________________ >>mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net" target="_blank" class="parsedEmail parsedEmail >parsedEmail">Triumphs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $11.47 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe: >target="_blank"> >>target="_blank"> >target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Sep 22 18:23:21 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 20:23:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] tr3 concours question Message-ID: <21c99d.4aa6a097.39cbf7f8@aol.com> Hey Dave, I put you question to the TRA Forum and this is the response received: Hope this Helps, Darrell Contrasting piping would have been the norm on the 3s, but some neutral colors such as grey or Stone may have retained the non constrasting piping. It 'a a fair bet that colors like black (white piping) and blue (cream piping) were contrasted right from the start of 3 production or very nearly so. That's pretty much what the guide says. Nobody pipes with cream whic is a shame because it looks great. __________________ John Warfield TS227LO _reply_ (http://triumphregister.lefora.com/2010/09/22/seat-piping-tr3/#thread_reply_form) _quote_ (http://triumphregister.lefora.com/2010/09/22/seat-piping-tr3/#thread_reply_form) 22 September 2010 01:19 PM In a message dated 9/15/2010 7:06:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, dave at ranteer.com writes: on a 57 tr3 (small mouth, not 3a), would non different colored piping, i.e., piping the same color as the leather seats, be considered as correct? could that have come on a car or are ALL seats REQUIRED to have contrasting piping? what does the judging guide say? what has been your experience? _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr250driver at aol.com From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 15:13:08 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:13:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] ignition timing Message-ID: <154246.33406.qm@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I'm not home right now so don't have particular numbers on my cam but it is an S2 cam. My engine is normal compression. I finally have it running very well but needed to get the distributor re-curved and cleaned up by Jeff, set the valves at .014 intake and .016 exhaust. I also upped my timing considerably. I think I remember right that I'm at roughly 22 BTDC. I think i have a little bit of ping at that setting so might be adjusting that back a bit. I find that setting idle at a little over 1,000 rpm is about right also. This seems to be working well for me right now. I had my timing set at around 12 to 14 btdc also and wasn't happy with it ( I also had some blowbackfiring happening especially on initial startup) so went out one day with a wrench and slowly advanced the timing untill I was happy with how it ran......making sure I kept it below the pinging level. hope this helps gary n. From dlylis at gmail.com Thu Sep 23 15:19:46 2010 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 21:19:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> References: <391491.87507.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> Message-ID: What if the Hokey Pokey is REALLY what it is all about? Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 14:29:26 To: Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 Please please let this thread die!!!!!!! Every time I see the thread title I start humming a song "Put your left foot in Take your left foot out shake it all around and ..." Please stop! _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 17:06:05 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 23:06:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stranded In-Reply-To: <154246.33406.qm@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <81630645.1303115.1285283165500.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Uh oh. Pulled into Hannaford Supermarket this afternoon, when the engine stalled. Actually, it ran rough as hell with pedal gooses for about 30 seconds. Electronic Ignition. Checked spark with screwdriver in the wire ends. All cylinders getting spark, not sure how strong, but seemingly okay. Did not check fuel flow, but can hear the electric fuel pump throbbing. Trying to start, the car backfires but makes no attempt to catch and run. Checked the float resevoirs, no fuel leaking out the overflow tube. Do TR3A's ever jump a cog and throw the timing off that much? Or am I looking at a valve problem? (or...both) Terry Smith New Hampshire From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 20:21:02 2010 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 19:21:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stranded In-Reply-To: <81630645.1303115.1285283165500.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <81630645.1303115.1285283165500.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C9C0B0E.908@comcast.net> What kind of electronic ignition? If it's Petronics, it is possible that the magnets in the sleeve that goes in the distributor get loose and go askew. The result could be that you are getting spark at all the cylinders, just not when you are supposed to be. Don't know about other systems. Bob On 9/23/2010 4:06 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Uh oh. > > Pulled into Hannaford Supermarket this afternoon, when the engine stalled. Actually, it ran rough as hell with pedal gooses for about 30 seconds. > > Electronic Ignition. Checked spark with screwdriver in the wire ends. All cylinders getting spark, not sure how strong, but seemingly okay. > > Did not check fuel flow, but can hear the electric fuel pump throbbing. > > Trying to start, the car backfires but makes no attempt to catch and run. > > Checked the float resevoirs, no fuel leaking out the overflow tube. > > Do TR3A's ever jump a cog and throw the timing off that much? Or am I looking at a valve problem? (or...both) > > Terry Smith > New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 20:52:17 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 02:52:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stranded In-Reply-To: <1390861488.1314415.1285296629775.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2128597912.1314474.1285296736670.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >What kind of electronic ignition? If it's Petronics, it is possible >that the magnets in the sleeve that goes in the distributor get loose >and go askew. The result could be that you are getting spark at all the >cylinders, just not when you are supposed to be. Don't know about other >systems. Thanks, Bob. That makes sense. I'd better source another. Fred, I had changed the rotor and dizzy cap. Weird thing was, the carbon brush in the middle of the cap was worn so far down, I can't see how it was working at all. Was sure it was going to solve the problem...until it didn't. From wbeech at flash.net Thu Sep 23 22:16:53 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 22:16:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <20100923212337.234FA1878DF@autox.team.net> References: <391491.87507.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><4C97D236.9090508@gmail.com> <20100923212337.234FA1878DF@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Of course it is,,, why would you ever think otherwise? BB -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dlylis at gmail.com Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 3:20 PM To: TeriAnn J. Wakeman; triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 What if the Hokey Pokey is REALLY what it is all about? Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 14:29:26 To: Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 Please please let this thread die!!!!!!! Every time I see the thread title I start humming a song "Put your left foot in Take your left foot out shake it all around and ..." Please stop! _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Sep 24 03:46:48 2010 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 05:46:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stranded References: <81630645.1303115.1285283165500.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Things to check. 1. Is the Pertronix unit receiving full voltage? I had one on a TR-6 that failed because it was wired to the regular coil feed wire - the one after the ballast resister wire. The unit was receiving only 8-9 volts. It would produce a spark at craning speed, but that was it. The supply voltage should have come directly from a switched 12v source like the fusebox. 2. Is the unit designed for positive ground? I assume that a TR-3A is positive ground. Alex Thomson ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 7:06 PM Subject: [TR] Stranded > Uh oh. > > Pulled into Hannaford Supermarket this afternoon, when the engine stalled. > Actually, it ran rough as hell with pedal gooses for about 30 seconds. > > Electronic Ignition. Checked spark with screwdriver in the wire ends. > All cylinders getting spark, not sure how strong, but seemingly okay. > > Did not check fuel flow, but can hear the electric fuel pump throbbing. > > Trying to start, the car backfires but makes no attempt to catch and run. > > Checked the float resevoirs, no fuel leaking out the overflow tube. > > Do TR3A's ever jump a cog and throw the timing off that much? Or am I > looking at a valve problem? (or...both) > > Terry Smith > New Hampshire > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 24 06:03:11 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 08:03:11 EDT Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 Message-ID: <49589.35429e5c.39cded7f@cs.com> In a message dated 9/23/2010 11:17:16 PM Central Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: > Of course it is,,, why would you ever think otherwise? > BB > > -----Original Message----- > > What if the Hokey Pokey is REALLY what it is all about? Boy has this thread grown legs! From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 06:13:47 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 08:13:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In-Reply-To: <49589.35429e5c.39cded7f@cs.com> References: <49589.35429e5c.39cded7f@cs.com> Message-ID: <000e01cb5be1$f11e38d0$d35aaa70$@net> Yep...And something else And make sure you (turn it all about) Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 8:03 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Where does everyone put their left foot in a TR6 In a message dated 9/23/2010 11:17:16 PM Central Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: > Of course it is,,, why would you ever think otherwise? > BB > > -----Original Message----- > > What if the Hokey Pokey is REALLY what it is all about? Boy has this thread grown legs! _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 06:39:04 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:39:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stranded In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1196093894.1323379.1285331944916.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >1. Is the Pertronix unit receiving full voltage? I had one on a TR-6 that >failed because it was wired to the regular coil feed wire - the one after >the ballast resister wire. The unit was receiving only 8-9 volts. It would >produce a spark at craning speed, but that was it. The supply voltage should >have come directly from a switched 12v source like the fusebox. Thanks, Alex. I'll be taking my voltmeter back with me this morning and will check. Terry From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 24 10:29:15 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 09:29:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stranded In-Reply-To: <1196093894.1323379.1285331944916.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1196093894.1323379.1285331944916.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <02d601cb5c05$a37c3810$ea74a830$@rr.com> If all else fails, might be worth swapping points back in. Last time I had those symptoms, it was a bad condenser. Might be that your Pertronix module has developed a similar fault, ie switching enough to allow some spark but bleeding off enough energy that the spark isn't enough to make the engine run. I've never heard of a TRactor motor jumping cam timing (and I've run some pretty badly worn out engines), but anything is possible. As a quick check, you can turn the motor to TDC with #4 firing (rotor points at #4), and look down the fill pipe to see if both valves on #1 are open the same amount. If there is a big difference, then either the cam or the TDC mark is off. -- Randall From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Fri Sep 24 12:30:25 2010 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 11:30:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stranded Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F117973CD@kb1.mossmotors.com> Did you actually pull a fuel line and see if fuel was getting to the carbs? I spent time stranded with similar symptoms, checked and replaced most of the ignition on the road, only to find it was no fuel. Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 From m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca Fri Sep 24 12:50:36 2010 From: m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca (Mo and Dave MacKay) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:50:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electrical connection to coil Message-ID: Hello: For the second time in a couple of years, I have had the thin white wire from the fuse box that feeds the coil snap off at the crimp-on connector that affixes it to the coil. Obviously, I'm doing something wrong with the way I've been making the connection. I was wondering if I need to provide some sort of strain relief for the wire at the connector, or if I need to do something different than just crimping the connector to the wire. I'd welcome any suggestions. Also, the wire is now pretty short and is now just long enough to reach the coil. What is considered good practice: should I splice in another length of cable, or open up the loom and run a new (thicker) wire from the fuse box? If the latter, does one use regular (vinyl) electrical tape to re-wrap the loom? Thanks in advance. Dave MacKay TR3A s/n 68639L(O) near Toronto, Canada From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Sep 24 13:08:40 2010 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 15:08:40 EDT Subject: [TR] Stranded Message-ID: <62337.348995c.39ce5138@aol.com> Terry, Check for fuel flow at the carbs.....the fact that you hear the fuel pump ticking or pulsing is no assurance that fuel is actually getting to the carbs...the pump may be working against a cloggeg fuel filter if you have one in-line from the pump to the carbs. About 5 years ago my TR6 did the same symptoms after a nice long drive...fortunately just as I pulled into our driveway. It turned out to be a clogged fuel filter.....I cut the clogged filter open after I replaced it and found it coated with a rust colored muck and little bits of "stuff". Evidently my restored fuel tank hadn't been as flushed clean as it should have been and the sediment, etc finally built up and stopped the fuel flow. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 9/23/2010 7:06:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: Did not check fuel flow, but can hear the electric fuel pump throbbing. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 24 13:29:41 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:29:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electrical connection to coil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <033401cb5c1e$d6d21ea0$84765be0$@rr.com> > For the second time in a couple of years, I have had the thin white > wire > from the fuse box that feeds the coil snap off at the crimp-on > connector > that affixes it to the coil. My suggestion: Splice in some more wire, so there are several inches of slack between the coil & the harness on the inner fender. I'm guessing that yours was pulled kind of tight, so it gets stressed when the engine rocks over on its mounts (they do move more than you'd think). For the splice, get some white heat shrink tubing, and make a "Western Union" type joint, then solder it and install the heat shrink over it. http://www.tpub.com/content/neets/14176/css/14176_46.htm At the coil, cut the vinyl insulation off of the new crimp connector, and slide some suitable heat shrink onto the wire before crimping the connector on. Then solder the tip of the wire to the connector, where it extends out of the crimp; and put the heat shrink over the crimp so it extends about an inch onto the wire. This protects and insulates the connection, as well as acting as a strain relief. Since I've started doing connections this way (egad, has it really been 30 years?!) I've never had one fail. At the time, I was working for a company that installed computer systems on board seismic survey ships, that had to connect to various ship's sensors. To run a seismic survey, they set off the equivalent of a keg of dynamite near the stern of the ship, every 5-8 seconds, literally for days on end (basically until something broke or it was time for a crew change). I really hated getting called back because a connection failed! > If the latter, does one use regular (vinyl) electrical tape to re-wrap > the loom? Some do, but it makes an awful mess for later. The adhesive will simply not stand up to conditions under the hood for very long, and the tape gets hard and stiff, so eventually you will wind up with a ball of partially unwrapped tape around your harness. I would avoid it if at all possible. -- Randall From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Sep 24 13:31:56 2010 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 15:31:56 EDT Subject: [TR] Electrical connection to coil Message-ID: <6391a.ca97384.39ce56ac@aol.com> Dave, I would suggest that you use spade terminals which have a two "crimping" sleeves for the wire end. One crimping sleeve is for the bare wire; the other (outer) sleeve crimps the insulated portion of the wire to provide more strength against wire fatigue. You can see a photo of these on the website of British Wiring _www.britishwiring.com_ (http://www.britishwiring.com) . These spade terminals are typically a little more money than the cheaper blister pack spades you'd find at WalMart, etc but they will solve your problem. As for extending the white wire by splicing in a longer segment.....no problem. I would solder the splice, use some heat shrink to insulate the splice. Assuming that we're talking about a vinyl versus fabric harness, then you could certainly wrap the splice around the existing wiring harness with black electrical tape or, if you really want to be "concours", wrap the splice around the harness with harness tape! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 9/24/2010 2:50:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca writes: I have had the thin white wire from the fuse box that feeds the coil snap off at the crimp-on connector that affixes it to the coil. Obviously, I'm doing something wrong with the way I've been making the connection. From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 13:45:46 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 19:45:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stranded In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F117973CD@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <459238165.1350010.1285357546994.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> - >Did you actually pull a fuel line and see if fuel was getting to the >carbs? Perhaps my mistake. I assumed the backfiring meant it was getting fuel, just not being ignited? From lherault at bu.edu Fri Sep 24 14:51:33 2010 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:51:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 light switch Message-ID: <006901cb5c2a$4641a480$d2c4ed80$@edu> I had trouble getting the switch to move to the right position and turn the lights on. It did finally work but I know it is failing. Since it has been eons since I replaced this type of rocker switch, I'd appreciate it if one of our listmates who's dealt with one recently would refresh my memory about how to remove it. Thanks, Ron L From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Sep 24 15:15:54 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 17:15:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 light switch In-Reply-To: <006901cb5c2a$4641a480$d2c4ed80$@edu> References: <006901cb5c2a$4641a480$d2c4ed80$@edu> Message-ID: If it's the rocker type switch that's mounted in the dash, take it apart and give it a good cleaning like I did. Now mine works perfectly and it only took about 15 minutes to do. You can see how I did it with pictures here: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HeadlightSwitch.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ron L'Herault" Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 4:51 PM To: Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 light switch > I had trouble getting the switch to move to the right position and turn > the > lights on. It did finally work but I know it is failing. Since it has > been eons since I replaced this type of rocker switch, I'd appreciate it > if > one of our listmates who's dealt with one recently would refresh my memory > about how to remove it. Thanks, > > Ron L > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 16:54:54 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 15:54:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 Bonnet Message-ID: Hi folks have a friend here in Northern California looking for a pristine 1973 TR6 Bonnet, any reasonable price accepted. Quality and Speed of delivery essential ... Any help/tips, greatly appreciated. -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Sep 24 18:44:37 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 20:44:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] broken strut bolt, no TR Message-ID: <4C9D0DB5.25530.356AF742@localhost> No TR content but automotive nevertheless. We just got back in from almost 2 weeks in Acadia Natl Park. While we were there the hatch on our 2006 Grand Caravan decided to get heavy. The reason is that the bolt holding one of the compressed-air struts to the hatch broke off at the hatch. Fortunately I could unscrew the other end of the strut from its mount in the door frame. Otherwise I wouldn't have been able to close the hatch at all because of the strut dangling in the way. So now in order to replace the strut someone will have to drill out the old one from the hole in the hatch. If that fails we'll have to replace the entire hatch, I guess. What are the odds that whoever tries to do this will break off an easy-out bit in the old bolt? So should I take this to the corner gas station (one with real, old- fashioned mechanics who do real work as well as sell gas)? Or to a Dodge dealer? Or a near-by Boston Muffler & Brake where I've had other work done, on the premise that they deal with more stuck bolts than ordinary garages? Thanks in advance. Without your enlightened guidance I have to just roll the dice. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Fri Sep 24 19:04:21 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:04:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Off topic:Delete if you do not tow a trailer Message-ID: <74298.32855f2.39cea495@aol.com> Hi all; For those who tow their Triumph, or indeed anything, on/in a trailer, I wondered if anyone has graduated from an open trailer to an enclosed one? I am about to order an enclosed one, mostly for my business, but am a bit constricted by the towing capacity of my half ton van (6200 lbs towing capacity). To tow the TR3A, I don't need much space, but to tow my compact tractor with bush hog, or to haul Christmas trees, perennials, etc. etc., then it's a different story. So, I'm planning to order a cargo trailer that is 8 ft wide, 8 ft tall (6 ft 6ins headroom for my tall height), 20 feet long and weighs 2800 lbs unladen. It seems to me that I'll be towing a great big sail down the road with the frontal area of the trailer, although my van is 6 ft 6 inches tall and probably 6 ft 6 inches wide. Wondering if anyone's tried towing such a trailer with something that's only moderately powerful (5.2L V8) and how they found it towed? Currently I have a 20 ft open landscaping trailer that I tow quite happily, but it has hardly any wind resistance. Is this a mistake? No dealer will let me tow a trailer to try it. Tim From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 24 19:08:56 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:08:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] broken strut bolt, no TR In-Reply-To: <4C9D0DB5.25530.356AF742@localhost> References: <4C9D0DB5.25530.356AF742@localhost> Message-ID: <8CD2A655CA1B50E-14A4-8289@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> The gas station guys will fill your tank. The dealer will sell you a new hatch. The Muffler shop guys will weld a nut to what's left of the bolt and back it right out. I'll bet a restoration shop would be your best bet. Dave So should I take this to the corner gas station (one with real, old- fashioned mechanics who do real work as well as sell gas)? Or to a Dodge dealer? Or a near-by Boston Muffler & Brake where I've had other work done, on the premise that they deal with more stuck bolts than ordinary garages? From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Sep 24 19:22:45 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:22:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] broken strut bolt, no TR In-Reply-To: <8CD2A655CA1B50E-14A4-8289@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> References: <4C9D0DB5.25530.356AF742@localhost> Message-ID: <4C9D16A5.569.358DE297@localhost> On 24 Sep 2010 at 21:08, dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > The gas station guys will fill your tank. > The dealer will sell you a new hatch. > The Muffler shop guys will weld a nut to what's left of the bolt and back it > right out. > I'll bet a restoration shop would be your best bet. Tanks. Good points. If I knew a good restoration shop nearby I'd certainly go there. Maybe the muffler place is the best choice. Tanks again. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Sep 24 19:31:12 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:31:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] broken strut bolt, no TR In-Reply-To: <4C9D16A5.569.358DE297@localhost> Message-ID: <20100925013112.5VSEW.45450.root@hrndva-web02-z02> I'd take it to a good body shop, they deal with this kind of thing a lot. JVV ---- Jim Muller wrote: > On 24 Sep 2010 at 21:08, dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > > The gas station guys will fill your tank. > > The dealer will sell you a new hatch. > > The Muffler shop guys will weld a nut to what's left of the bolt and back it > > right out. > > I'll bet a restoration shop would be your best bet. > > Tanks. Good points. If I knew a good restoration shop nearby I'd > certainly go there. Maybe the muffler place is the best choice. > > Tanks again. From pethier at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 22:32:53 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 04:32:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Off topic:Delete if you do not tow a trailer In-Reply-To: <1305206026.45478.1285388896021.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1891763248.45673.1285389173343.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- > From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 8:04:21 PM > Subject: [TR] Off topic:Delete if you do not tow a trailer > > Hi all; > > For those who tow their Triumph, or indeed anything, on/in a trailer, > I > wondered if anyone has graduated from an open trailer to an enclosed > one? I am > about to order an enclosed one, mostly for my business, but am a bit > > constricted by the towing capacity of my half ton van (6200 lbs > towing > capacity). To tow the TR3A, I don't need much space, but to tow my > compact tractor > with bush hog, or to haul Christmas trees, perennials, etc. etc., > then it's > a different story. So, I'm planning to order a cargo trailer that is > 8 ft > wide, 8 ft tall (6 ft 6ins headroom for my tall height), 20 feet long > and > weighs 2800 lbs unladen. It seems to me that I'll be towing a great > big sail > down the road with the frontal area of the trailer, although my van > is 6 ft > 6 inches tall and probably 6 ft 6 inches wide. > > Wondering if anyone's tried towing such a trailer with something > that's > only moderately powerful (5.2L V8) and how they found it towed? > Currently I > have a 20 ft open landscaping trailer that I tow quite happily, but > it has > hardly any wind resistance. Is this a mistake? No dealer will let me > tow a > trailer to try it. > > Tim I had a half-ton 5.0 Suburban and a Pace American 20-foot car hauler. The Burb had 200,000 on it, so it might not have had full power. In any case, I often found my foot flat on the floor due to hills and/or wind, sometimes struggling to maintain 55 MPH. Now I have a three-quarter-ton 8.1 Suburban. I think it would tow at speed limit anywhere under cruise control. A dealer who won't let you test a trailer is a dealer who does not want to sell a trailer. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Sep 25 05:24:21 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 07:24:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Off topic:Delete if you do not tow a trailer In-Reply-To: <1891763248.45673.1285389173343.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1891763248.45673.1285389173343.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <29968F9F80E2440E8013369777C41D20@CarlPC> > A dealer who won't let you test a trailer is a dealer who does not want to > sell a trailer. > Or one that knows "it won't work" but will say anything to get the sale. From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Sat Sep 25 08:15:35 2010 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 10:15:35 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine For Sale Message-ID: A friend called yesterday asking if I could help him sell the TR4 engine he has left over from his parts car. It remains in the chasis and runs, complete with a pair of Weber carbs, for $1,500. It's all in Wayland, New York, about an hour south of Rochester. A prospective buyer would have to see and hear (and move) the engine. Anyone interested? George Haynes From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 09:03:19 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 15:03:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Looking to buy: In-Reply-To: <1805412218.1375867.1285426697567.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1953773937.1376061.1285426999049.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Yesterday stranded in a parking lot, had to swap out electronic ignition back to points. It would have been so much easier if I'd already had them mounted on a contact breaker base. So, anyone want to sell a spare breaker base set that'll fit a Lucas 25D distributor # 40795A? These are, alas, unobtanium. If not, I'll check with some of the usual suppliers of used things of this ilk. Terry Smith '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From bill_beecher at flash.net Sat Sep 25 09:07:52 2010 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:07:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud Message-ID: List, Well, a few months ago I had written about the mysterious appearance of coolant on the underside of the bonnet, where most normal radiator and hose leaks should NOT deposit coolant. Careful inspection yielded that I was still using the wrong radiator cap (3/4" instead of 1" depth). Fixed that and had an awesome summer of driving, although I still noticed only a slight amount still appearing, it was insignificant enough that I determined that I would leave it for winter to pressurize and resolve finally. Well, now I know! As I was preparing to head to a club event this morning and dutifully dusting off old Tarbaby for a fun 100 miler I noticed an inverted dent on the bonnet. Severely admonishing myself for leaving something on the motor and closing the lid I opened her up and there was 1/2 of the front stud laying on the manifold, and the hole was full with nice clean coolant. So, I have now resolved finding the minor problem that I had by discovering a major problem. My questions are these: -What is the procedure to replace a stud? -Can it be done 'in situ'? -As there was coolant in the hole, and most likely before today, do look for another problem or is there supposed to be coolant in the stud holes? -Head gasket? -I have some extra studs from another, newer engine, should I use one of them or buy new? (Sourcing recommendations appreciated) Many thanks in advance..... Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From lherault at bu.edu Sat Sep 25 09:24:20 2010 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 11:24:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 light switch In-Reply-To: References: <006901cb5c2a$4641a480$d2c4ed80$@edu> Message-ID: <002701cb5cc5$ba5beb50$2f13c1f0$@edu> Success, Bob, and much thanks. I found everything as you said but worse. My contact tabs were a bit loose so to your fine tutorial, I would add the instructions to use DEOXIT on the contact rivet-to-tab joint after which one can use two pin punches to tighten the rivet heads to the tabs. I was getting enough increased resistance to heat up the tab and melt the insulating plastic on one wire. Also, since this was a replacement switch from the original (wish I knew then what I know now) it has a white plastic framework behind the dash that clips to the switch and helps keep it in position. I reached up inside the dash and pushed the switch out and never even felt this frame. It was only after the switch was disconnected and I looked into the mounting hole at the area behind the dash that I saw the framework. Good thing I've got small hands because it was not easy to put the frame back. I almost had to remove the speedo to make access room - almost. Ron L in warm, humid, North Attleboro, MA. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 5:16 PM To: Ron L'Herault; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] '73 TR6 light switch If it's the rocker type switch that's mounted in the dash, take it apart and give it a good cleaning like I did. Now mine works perfectly and it only took about 15 minutes to do. You can see how I did it with pictures here: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HeadlightSwitch.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ron L'Herault" Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 4:51 PM To: Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 light switch > I had trouble getting the switch to move to the right position and turn > the > lights on. It did finally work but I know it is failing. Since it has > been eons since I replaced this type of rocker switch, I'd appreciate it > if > one of our listmates who's dealt with one recently would refresh my memory > about how to remove it. Thanks, > > Ron L > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 25 12:31:04 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:31:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud Message-ID: <8DD7221F78744EDEBF4463012DAE9F64@bboffice> I guess this is the best of a bad situation. I pulled the head and there was enough stud that I could get to it with some vise-grips and remove the balance. If the proper torque for the head bolts is 105#, is it correct to assume I need to torque the studs into the block at 105# ? It's a Good Day! (sort of) Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: bill_beecher at flash.net [mailto:bill_beecher at flash.net] Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 9:08 AM To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net' Subject: TR3 Broken Head Stud List, Well, a few months ago I had written about the mysterious appearance of coolant on the underside of the bonnet, where most normal radiator and hose leaks should NOT deposit coolant. Careful inspection yielded that I was still using the wrong radiator cap (3/4" instead of 1" depth). Fixed that and had an awesome summer of driving, although I still noticed only a slight amount still appearing, it was insignificant enough that I determined that I would leave it for winter to pressurize and resolve finally. Well, now I know! As I was preparing to head to a club event this morning and dutifully dusting off old Tarbaby for a fun 100 miler I noticed an inverted dent on the bonnet. Severely admonishing myself for leaving something on the motor and closing the lid I opened her up and there was 1/2 of the front stud laying on the manifold, and the hole was full with nice clean coolant. So, I have now resolved finding the minor problem that I had by discovering a major problem. My questions are these: -What is the procedure to replace a stud? -Can it be done 'in situ'? -As there was coolant in the hole, and most likely before today, do look for another problem or is there supposed to be coolant in the stud holes? -Head gasket? -I have some extra studs from another, newer engine, should I use one of them or buy new? (Sourcing recommendations appreciated) Many thanks in advance..... Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 12:56:02 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:56:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud In-Reply-To: <8DD7221F78744EDEBF4463012DAE9F64@bboffice> References: <8DD7221F78744EDEBF4463012DAE9F64@bboffice> Message-ID: <2351C0D3-F5DA-412C-B900-0B403B425C65@comcast.net> I would guess not. For example when I replaced stock head studs in my TR6 with ARP studs they recommended the studs be torqued to the block with 4 ft lbs of torque and then the head at 70 ft lbs. Just my experience but a TR3 might be different. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 25, 2010, at 12:31 PM, wrote: > is it correct to assume I > need to torque the studs into the block at 105# ? From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Sep 25 13:08:47 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 14:08:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud In-Reply-To: <8DD7221F78744EDEBF4463012DAE9F64@bboffice> References: <8DD7221F78744EDEBF4463012DAE9F64@bboffice> Message-ID: <20100925190801.5281A187877@autox.team.net> You just need to make sure it's screwed into the hole all the way, little if any torque is needed. Double nutting the other end and running it down until it doesn't turn any more is normally enough. - Tony Drews At 01:31 PM 9/25/2010, wbeech at flash.net wrote: >I guess this is the best of a bad situation. I pulled the head and there >was enough stud that I could get to it with some vise-grips and remove the >balance. > >If the proper torque for the head bolts is 105#, is it correct to assume I >need to torque the studs into the block at 105# ? > >It's a Good Day! (sort of) > >Bill > >Bill Beecher >'58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" >www.triumphowners.com/1566 >"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of >course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 25 13:23:57 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 13:23:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud In-Reply-To: <201009251908.o8PJ8kDN010794@nlpi091.prodigy.net> References: <8DD7221F78744EDEBF4463012DAE9F64@bboffice> <201009251908.o8PJ8kDN010794@nlpi091.prodigy.net> Message-ID: <84F435E4-C05B-42CD-872C-428F44DD9357@flash.net> If I see surface pitting on the studs as I am cleaning them, should I go ahead an replace them? Or is this just a cosmetic thing? TIA Bill Mobile Bill On Sep 25, 2010, at 1:08 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > You just need to make sure it's screwed into the hole all the way, little if any torque is needed. Double nutting the other end and running it down until it doesn't turn any more is normally enough. > > - Tony Drews > > At 01:31 PM 9/25/2010, wbeech at flash.net wrote: >> I guess this is the best of a bad situation. I pulled the head and there >> was enough stud that I could get to it with some vise-grips and remove the >> balance. >> >> If the proper torque for the head bolts is 105#, is it correct to assume I >> need to torque the studs into the block at 105# ? >> >> It's a Good Day! (sort of) >> >> Bill >> >> Bill Beecher >> '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" >> www.triumphowners.com/1566 >> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of >> course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Sat Sep 25 14:36:45 2010 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 16:36:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electrical connection to coil Message-ID: <000901cb5cf1$5eeee7a0$1cccb6e0$@net> Ensure the white wire is not resting on the tach cable. Otherwise, with time, they will become friends, and the smoke will be lost from the white wire. Cheers From mark at bradakis.com Sat Sep 25 16:36:49 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 16:36:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud In-Reply-To: <84F435E4-C05B-42CD-872C-428F44DD9357@flash.net> References: <8DD7221F78744EDEBF4463012DAE9F64@bboffice> <201009251908.o8PJ8kDN010794@nlpi091.prodigy.net> <84F435E4-C05B-42CD-872C-428F44DD9357@flash.net> Message-ID: <4C9E7981.50305@bradakis.com> Wbeech at flash.net wrote: > If I see surface pitting on the studs as I am cleaning them, should I go ahead > an replace them? > So you are saying the other studs are in a condition similar to the one that broke, right? Drat, I just realized i missed the BMCU swap meet this morning, drat! mjb. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Sep 25 16:37:15 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 18:37:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Electrical question In-Reply-To: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> This weekend I am working on installing the Wiring Harness on the '3 Project. I have installed a Lucas Battery Master Switch (Model ST330) under the dash. In addition to the battery / ground connections there is a connection for a wire that is supposed to go to the coil. There were no instructions with the switch. In the harness there is a white wire that goes from coil (- side) to the fuse box (A3). The question is: does the battery switch (coil) wire replace the one from the harness? But that doesn't make sense to me since the switch is coming off the positive ground side of the battery. Or does it connect to the LT side (+). I guess my confusion is I can't figure out how the connection from the switch to the coil functions. Distributor [WB] -> + (LT) Coil - [W] -> A3 Terminal on Fuse Box Battery (+) -> Switch -> Ground (at Starter) Switch image at http://www.retroclassiccarparts.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/pro duct/Battery_Master_S_4c40bf3e0a745.jpg the coil wire comes off the brass fitting visible in the image. Thanks Carl TS81802LO getting closer to being on the road... From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 25 16:59:31 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 16:59:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud In-Reply-To: <4C9E7981.50305@bradakis.com> References: <8DD7221F78744EDEBF4463012DAE9F64@bboffice> <201009251908.o8PJ8kDN010794@nlpi091.prodigy.net> <84F435E4-C05B-42CD-872C-428F44DD9357@flash.net> <4C9E7981.50305@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <46D089FA-B267-41D7-9116-388C4D756F2D@flash.net> The broke one was a worse, but they all look sound. Back together now with part from other motor, will be taking a test drive within the hour. I am thinking that I will get a new ARP set and replace them all this winter Just need to keep running to complete next week's run! Mobile Bill On Sep 25, 2010, at 4:36 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Wbeech at flash.net wrote: >> If I see surface pitting on the studs as I am cleaning them, should I go ahead >> an replace them? >> > So you are saying the other studs are in a condition similar to the > one that broke, right? > > Drat, I just realized i missed the BMCU swap meet this morning, drat! > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 25 17:14:53 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 16:14:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Electrical question In-Reply-To: <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> Message-ID: <19e701cb5d07$76670b90$0301a8c0@randall> > In addition to the battery / ground connections there is a > connection for a > wire that is supposed to go to the coil. I'm not absolutely certain, Carl, but I believe the switch has to go in the ground lead from the battery. The "small third terminal" gets wired to the point side of the coil, and effectively shorts out the points (grounds the point side of the coil) when the switch is in the 'off' position. Some quick checks with an ohmmeter or powered test light should confirm this. If I am right, the third terminal will not show continuity to anything with the switch "on"; but will be connected to the 'E' terminal when the switch is "off". Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 25 17:20:49 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 16:20:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud In-Reply-To: <84F435E4-C05B-42CD-872C-428F44DD9357@flash.net> References: <8DD7221F78744EDEBF4463012DAE9F64@bboffice><201009251908.o8PJ8kDN010794@nlpi091.prodigy.net> <84F435E4-C05B-42CD-872C-428F44DD9357@flash.net> Message-ID: <19e901cb5d08$4aa1cb70$0301a8c0@randall> > If I see surface pitting on the studs as I am cleaning them, > should I go ahead > an replace them? IMO, yes. Actually, after having one break, I'd be inclined to replace all of them (but I've never had one break). Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 25 17:33:47 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 17:33:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud In-Reply-To: <4C9E7981.50305@bradakis.com> References: <8DD7221F78744EDEBF4463012DAE9F64@bboffice><201009251908.o8PJ8kDN010794@nlpi091.prodigy.net><84F435E4-C05B-42CD-872C-428F44DD9357@flash.net> <4C9E7981.50305@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Mark, Are the studs on the right-hand side(carb side) in the water jacket of the engine? They seemed to be the ones that are pitted. Yep, I missed the BMCU meet as well, all dress up & dusted off then catastrophe struck! Thanks, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 4:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud Wbeech at flash.net wrote: > If I see surface pitting on the studs as I am cleaning them, should I > go ahead an replace them? > So you are saying the other studs are in a condition similar to the one that broke, right? Drat, I just realized i missed the BMCU swap meet this morning, drat! mjb. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From pethier at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 20:44:10 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 02:44:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <6455904.72920.1285469050101.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Susie wants to know how much you are enjoying playing with the head studs and how soon you want to do it again. She recommends all-new studs. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From pethier at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 20:58:35 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 02:58:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] broken strut bolt, no TR In-Reply-To: <4C9D0DB5.25530.356AF742@localhost> Message-ID: <63657946.73167.1285469915502.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > So now in order to replace the strut someone will have to drill out > the old one from the hole in the hatch. B If that fails we'll have to > replace the entire hatch, I guess. B What are the odds that whoever > tries to do this will break off an easy-out bit in the old bolt? Soak it with Kroil or PB blaster. B Then drill it out with a LEFT-HANDED drill. B Don't forget to run the drill motor in reverse. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From bill_beecher at flash.net Sat Sep 25 21:13:28 2010 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 21:13:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud In-Reply-To: <6455904.72920.1285469050101.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <6455904.72920.1285469050101.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <5EA04868912F4DBA9833681B0FDE1D52@bboffice> Dear Miss Susie, Salvaged one from the spare engine, took a brisk 20 miler this evening, all is right with the world again...except that my back hurts! It surprised me that the broken stud shot up with enough force to put a 1/4" reverse dent in the bonnet. One more club run on the agenda for next week, then I can retire to the barn with my "to do" list for the winter. Yes, a new set of ARP studs is on my list, along with seals for the diff & trans. Say Hi to that crusty old guy that you are living with for me! All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net [mailto:pethier at comcast.net] Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 8:44 PM To: bill beecher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Broken Head Stud Susie wants to know how much you are enjoying playing with the head studs and how soon you want to do it again. She recommends all-new studs. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Sep 25 22:00:47 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 00:00:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Electrical question In-Reply-To: <19e701cb5d07$76670b90$0301a8c0@randall> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> <19e701cb5d07$76670b90$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <292BAD170DE84CCEBF4230C38EAB9AEF@CarlPC> Thanks Randall... I found a great catalog that explained the connections. You are correct in your description. http://www.lucaselectrical.co.uk/catalogues/XCB634_switchgear_prodas.pdf It connects to the LT side of the coil... in this case the + side. Interestingly, the coil has the + side furthest from the distributer. I guess I could turn it around in the bracket but then 'LUCAS' would be upside down... :O) C ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 7:14 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Electrical question >> In addition to the battery / ground connections there is a >> connection for a >> wire that is supposed to go to the coil. > > I'm not absolutely certain, Carl, but I believe the switch has to go in > the > ground lead from the battery. The "small third terminal" gets wired to > the > point side of the coil, and effectively shorts out the points (grounds the > point side of the coil) when the switch is in the 'off' position. > > Some quick checks with an ohmmeter or powered test light should confirm > this. If I am right, the third terminal will not show continuity to > anything with the switch "on"; but will be connected to the 'E' terminal > when the switch is "off". > > Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From kkealty at rogers.com Sat Sep 25 23:38:55 2010 From: kkealty at rogers.com (KEVIN KEALTY) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 01:38:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Bulk] Re: TR3 Broken Head Stud In-Reply-To: <5EA04868912F4DBA9833681B0FDE1D52@bboffice> References: <6455904.72920.1285469050101.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <5EA04868912F4DBA9833681B0FDE1D52@bboffice> Message-ID: <055701cb5d3d$1c1138b0$5433aa10$@rogers.com> This sounds like it would be an interesting story, so I have to ask: Why is she living with a crusty old guy for you? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bill_beecher at flash.net Say Hi to that crusty old guy that you are living with for me! From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 05:23:41 2010 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 07:23:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignitions (formerly Looking to buy) References: Message-ID: Terry, Was your electronic ignition a Pertronix unit? How old? Apparently the newer Pertronix units are more sturdy than "older" ones. I don't know what they changed, or when. Any idea why it failed? I have heard of enough failures to have me concerned. I have a Pertronix and I always have a slight worry about being left dead on the roadside. I suspect 2 sources of failure for these Pertronix ignitions. 1) heat, and 2) voltage spikes. 1) If you turn on the ignition without the engine running, then MAYBE the electronic ignition will supply current to the coil continuously. There is significantly more current running the switching device in the Pertronix (presumably a MOSFET) than if the engine were running. Some ignitions will shut down the output if the engine is not running. That heat may slowly degrade the device until it can not hold up under normal running conditions. It is asking a lot to pack a device switching fairly heavy current into such a small package, and in a closed environment. Heat may well be an issue 2) I had what I later determined were some horrible spikes getting into my electrical system from a failing ignition wire. The old original cap, with a spike holding the wire in place just sucks. I replaced it with an MGB (oh the horror!), and Magnecore-type wires and it has been fine for 3 years. The reason the spikes were happening was that periodically there was a lot of resistance in the wire and all that juice had to go somewhere. It took out an old original voltage stabilizer by shorting the heater windings. It then destroyed a replacement transistor-based stabilizer. That unit used a 60v transistor. I have since repaired it with a transistor with a voltage rating as high as I could get and still have it fit. Something took out your electronic ignition, and you probably should try to prevent it from happening again. External ignitions, like the Newtronic Systems, etc. are almost certainly more durable. -Tony ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 15:03:19 +0000 (UTC) > From: terryrs at comcast.net > Subject: [TR] Looking to buy: > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > <1953773937.1376061.1285426999049.JavaMail.root at sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Yesterday stranded in a parking lot, had to swap out electronic ignition > back to points. It would have been so much easier if I'd already had them > mounted on a contact breaker base. > > So, anyone want to sell a spare breaker base set that'll fit a Lucas 25D > distributor # 40795A? These are, alas, unobtanium. If not, I'll check > with some of the usual suppliers of used things of this ilk. > > Terry Smith > '59 TR3A TS 58667 > New Hampshire From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 05:56:49 2010 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 07:56:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignitions (formerly Looking to buy) References: Message-ID: <7001E79096AE45EA9647DF7BFDEF45B4@I7QUAD> Thanks for that, Irv. I had been hoping that they were more resistant to failure than others. But, of course, nothing is that good! -Tony ----- Original Message ----- From: Irv Korey To: Anthony Rhodes Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 7:45 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Electronic Ignitions (formerly Looking to buy) On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 6:23 AM, Anthony Rhodes wrote: 2) I had what I later determined were some horrible spikes getting into my electrical system from a failing ignition wire. The old original cap, with a spike holding the wire in place just sucks. I replaced it with an MGB (oh the horror!), and Magnecore-type wires and it has been fine for 3 years. Tony, Just a FYI. My Magnacor 8MM wires had 2 failures out of 6 after only 2 years. You might want to check them periodically for resistance. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.856 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3159 - Release Date: 09/25/10 13:45:00 From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sun Sep 26 06:03:26 2010 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 08:03:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Splitting brakes calipers Message-ID: <380-22010902612326325@M2W135.mail2web.com> I am considering splitting my 16p brake calipers on my GT6 (same as TR3,4,6,) to do a through cleaning and repair, they are after all 40 years old. This would entail splitting them. However, as previously noted on the lists, no data is available for the torque settings of the retaining bolts, and the o-rings are not readily available. I do know that some of you have done this and have established some sort of information on these settings. So what torque settings are generally used  What size o-ring was established- or is the actual o-ring available I havent split them yet, but I do know that the Spitfire calipers have a rectangular cross section (not just square) o-ring, and as far as I can tell these are not available from the usual sources such as McMaster Carr  Yes I could look up the torque for bolts of this type, and measure the o-ring area and establish this myself, but I figured Id tap into the lists since this has already been somewhat researched - -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting From wbeech at flash.net Sun Sep 26 08:01:53 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 08:01:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Bulk] Re: TR3 Broken Head Stud In-Reply-To: <055701cb5d3d$1c1138b0$5433aa10$@rogers.com> References: <6455904.72920.1285469050101.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><5EA04868912F4DBA9833681B0FDE1D52@bboffice> <055701cb5d3d$1c1138b0$5433aa10$@rogers.com> Message-ID: <402FD2E7274244B8A55FC6CB4BA3B334@bboffice> Perhaps I should have phrased it "...send my regards to that..." Sue & Phil are two wonderful LBC enthusiasts, and contributors to our causes of keeping these little things rolling for a few more years. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KEVIN KEALTY Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 11:39 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [Bulk] Re: TR3 Broken Head Stud This sounds like it would be an interesting story, so I have to ask: Why is she living with a crusty old guy for you? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bill_beecher at flash.net Say Hi to that crusty old guy that you are living with for me! _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From rawanderer at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 08:35:51 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:35:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignitions (formerly Looking to buy) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100926143449.A65FD18787C@autox.team.net> Hi Tony, A Pertronix was installed in my TR6 in April. I have put on about 4000 miles since. This included a road trip to upper New England in late July (90+ deg w/humidity to match). During that trip I did a continuous interstate segment of about 300 miles. I had no problems with the Pertronix (or any other part of the car). I don't know about voltage spikes, but I do carry "known good" points and condenser JIC. BobW Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia) 1974 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Rhodes Sent: Sunday, 26 September, 2010 7:24 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; terryrs at comcast.net Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignitions (formerly Looking to buy) Terry, Was your electronic ignition a Pertronix unit? How old? Apparently the newer Pertronix units are more sturdy than "older" ones. I don't know what they changed, or when. Any idea why it failed? I have heard of enough failures to have me concerned. I have a Pertronix and I always have a slight worry about being left dead on the roadside. I suspect 2 sources of failure for these Pertronix ignitions. 1) heat, and 2) voltage spikes. 1) If you turn on the ignition without the engine running, then MAYBE the electronic ignition will supply current to the coil continuously. There is significantly more current running the switching device in the Pertronix (presumably a MOSFET) than if the engine were running. Some ignitions will shut down the output if the engine is not running. That heat may slowly degrade the device until it can not hold up under normal running conditions. It is asking a lot to pack a device switching fairly heavy current into such a small package, and in a closed environment. Heat may well be an issue 2) I had what I later determined were some horrible spikes getting into my electrical system from a failing ignition wire. The old original cap, with a spike holding the wire in place just sucks. I replaced it with an MGB (oh the horror!), and Magnecore-type wires and it has been fine for 3 years. The reason the spikes were happening was that periodically there was a lot of resistance in the wire and all that juice had to go somewhere. It took out an old original voltage stabilizer by shorting the heater windings. It then destroyed a replacement transistor-based stabilizer. That unit used a 60v transistor. I have since repaired it with a transistor with a voltage rating as high as I could get and still have it fit. Something took out your electronic ignition, and you probably should try to prevent it from happening again. External ignitions, like the Newtronic Systems, etc. are almost certainly more durable. -Tony ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 15:03:19 +0000 (UTC) > From: terryrs at comcast.net > Subject: [TR] Looking to buy: > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > <1953773937.1376061.1285426999049.JavaMail.root at sz0059a.westchester.pa > .mail.comcast.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Yesterday stranded in a parking lot, had to swap out electronic > ignition back to points. It would have been so much easier if I'd > already had them mounted on a contact breaker base. > > So, anyone want to sell a spare breaker base set that'll fit a Lucas > 25D distributor # 40795A? These are, alas, unobtanium. If not, I'll > check with some of the usual suppliers of used things of this ilk. > > Terry Smith > '59 TR3A TS 58667 > New Hampshire _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 09:03:38 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 15:03:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignitions (formerly Looking to buy) In-Reply-To: <171333541.1399769.1285513046200.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1729309769.1399978.1285513418468.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Was your electronic ignition a Pertronix unit? How old? Apparently the >newer Pertronix units are more sturdy than "older" ones. I don't know what >they changed, or when. Any idea why it failed? Hi, Anthony. Actually I'm still troubleshooting. I did replace the Pertronix with points and condenser, same problem, but am waiting for a new condensor in the mail to be sure I'm not swapping one problem for another. The procedure was to eliminate the possibility of shifted Pertronix magnets throwing the timing off. At this point it seems likely that the Pertronix is not the failure point. How does one test the power of the spark? Is there a certain Amp value using a multimeter? ...Or just listen for the "snap" of the spark when shorting it against the valve cover? From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 26 09:25:09 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 08:25:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Splitting brakes calipers In-Reply-To: <380-22010902612326325@M2W135.mail2web.com> References: <380-22010902612326325@M2W135.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <1a7601cb5d8f$01af18f0$0301a8c0@randall> Call TRF, ask for John or Dave, and ask them about the O-rings. Last I heard, they had them (even though they are not listed in the catalogs), and would sell them if you ask. The other option, of course, is to send them your calipers for rebuilding (or I believe they have exchange units available). According to a long-ago post from Cliff Hansen, the O-rings are also included in Beck-Arnley kit 071-1051, which appears to still be available from many sources (try Googling it). Here's a photo from Beck-Arnley's web site: http://tinyurl.com/38aynmu Or just don't split them ... I have never split my original TR3A calipers (perhaps because they are one-piece style ). That same post from Cliff said the torque values are : >7/16" (inside pair) 75 ft lbs. >3/8" (outside pair) 45 ft lbs. >Thanks to TRF technical assistance line. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 26 09:38:34 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 08:38:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignitions (formerly Looking to buy) In-Reply-To: <1729309769.1399978.1285513418468.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <171333541.1399769.1285513046200.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1729309769.1399978.1285513418468.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1a7d01cb5d90$e1b01c00$0301a8c0@randall> > How does one test the power of the spark? Not the most accurate of measurements, but if it will jump a 3/16" gap in free air (ie end of the wire to the valve cover), it's strong enough. Randall From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun Sep 26 09:40:28 2010 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 11:40:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake light switch Message-ID: <7323140F41C144E6A5DA0397C176AC10@AlexPC> Hi all, My 59 TR3 brake lights only come on with an excessive amount of brake pedal pressure. In most cases the lights to not work when approaching a stop unless I apply the brakes in the last moment with full pressure. I am assuming that the switch is not working properly. I am looking at two approaches to solve this obvious safety issue. 1st one is the easiest, replacing the old switch with a new one. My question is, has anyone replaced these switches with a new one and did the new one work with minimal pressure on the brake pedal as one would expect. Or am I going to end up with the same result that I have now. 2nd approach would be to bypass this switch with a brake pedal mounted one like my TR6 brake switch. Any feedback on the TR3 replacement switch would be appreciated. Thx, Alex Manzo 59 TR3 72 TR6 From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 26 10:03:29 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 09:03:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake light switch In-Reply-To: <7323140F41C144E6A5DA0397C176AC10@AlexPC> References: <7323140F41C144E6A5DA0397C176AC10@AlexPC> Message-ID: <1a7f01cb5d94$5c6c5e60$0301a8c0@randall> > has anyone replaced these switches with a new one and did > the new one work > with minimal pressure on the brake pedal as one would expect. It's been a few years now, but I had exactly the same problem. The replacement switch worked fine for a few months, then gradually started taking more and more pressure. That happened with switches from Moss, TRF, and FLAPS. > 2nd approach would be to bypass this switch with a brake > pedal mounted one > like my TR6 brake switch. That is the way I went. The one I put on the TR3A worked great for several years, but oddly enough I'm having trouble with the one on the TR3. Apparently, silicone brake fluid is the kiss of death for switches. I use DOT 5 of course, and had a leak on the TR3 that allowed it to slowly run down the brake pedal. When I disassembled the nearly new switch, it was wet inside with what appeared to be DOT 5, and one of the contacts was covered with a hard black substance that did not conduct. Likely it was burnt brake fluid. FWIW, here's a shot of the new brake switch & the bracket I fabricated, to mount it under the dash out of sight. Just a piece of flat steel bar from Home Depot, bent at an angle, and ground/drilled to suit. http://tinyurl.com/2efyus7 No doubt you'll want to do a nicer job, but I was in a hurry. And since it is out of sight (unless you have your head in the footwell), it doesn't bother me Maybe someday, after I retire and get bored without enough to do, I'll pull it back apart and powder coat everything. Randall From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun Sep 26 10:25:47 2010 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 12:25:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake light switch In-Reply-To: <1a7f01cb5d94$5c6c5e60$0301a8c0@randall> References: <7323140F41C144E6A5DA0397C176AC10@AlexPC> <1a7f01cb5d94$5c6c5e60$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Thanks Randall, Last question, and again an assumption on my part. The wire connections on the TR3A switch would just be rerouted or extended and simply attached to the contacts on the TR6? Thx again, Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'*Triumphs List'" Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 12:03 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Brake light switch >> has anyone replaced these switches with a new one and did >> the new one work >> with minimal pressure on the brake pedal as one would expect. > > It's been a few years now, but I had exactly the same problem. The > replacement switch worked fine for a few months, then gradually started > taking more and more pressure. That happened with switches from Moss, > TRF, > and FLAPS. > >> 2nd approach would be to bypass this switch with a brake >> pedal mounted one >> like my TR6 brake switch. > > That is the way I went. The one I put on the TR3A worked great for > several > years, but oddly enough I'm having trouble with the one on the TR3. > > Apparently, silicone brake fluid is the kiss of death for switches. I use > DOT 5 of course, and had a leak on the TR3 that allowed it to slowly run > down the brake pedal. When I disassembled the nearly new switch, it was > wet > inside with what appeared to be DOT 5, and one of the contacts was covered > with a hard black substance that did not conduct. Likely it was burnt > brake > fluid. > > FWIW, here's a shot of the new brake switch & the bracket I fabricated, to > mount it under the dash out of sight. Just a piece of flat steel bar from > Home Depot, bent at an angle, and ground/drilled to suit. > http://tinyurl.com/2efyus7 > > No doubt you'll want to do a nicer job, but I was in a hurry. And since > it > is out of sight (unless you have your head in the footwell), it doesn't > bother me Maybe someday, after I retire and get bored without enough > to > do, I'll pull it back apart and powder coat everything. > > Randall From allegrorover at mac.com Sun Sep 26 11:24:17 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 13:24:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] spark jump Message-ID: <93446AAE-4C5B-4A08-9E12-98FD60B93AA8@mac.com> List, I am having trouble getting the 3 running right. The car runs good for about one or two miles then it starts to skip real bad. I changed plugs, cap, rotor and wires and it did the same thing. I am running the fireball electronic ignition. When I ran my hand over the wires I got zapped, then I placed an insulated pair of pliers around the area where the wires come out of the cap and on the lower two wires spark jumped to the pliers. I put the old cap and wires on and it did the same thing, again on the lower two wires only and right next to the cap where the wire comes out. I have a new Pertronix that I purchased from TRF and that wouldn't even fire the car, I got really fed up with that thing and changed it back to the Fireball, luckily I didn't remove the entire Fireball from the car so it was an easy refit and the car fired right up. BUT, I don't know what is causing the spark jump out of the wires. Any thoughts??? It almost seems like there is too much voltage and it's going everywhere, I can almost hear it sparking...... From allegrorover at mac.com Sun Sep 26 11:36:45 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 13:36:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: spark jump References: <93446AAE-4C5B-4A08-9E12-98FD60B93AA8@mac.com> Message-ID: > Subject: spark jump > > List, > I am having trouble getting the 3 running right. > The car runs good for about one or two miles then it starts to skip real bad. > I changed plugs, cap, rotor and wires and it did the same thing. > I am running the fireball electronic ignition. > When I ran my hand over the wires I got zapped, then I placed an insulated pair of pliers around the area where the wires come out of the cap and on the lower two wires spark jumped to the pliers. > I put the old cap and wires on and it did the same thing, again on the lower two wires only and right next to the cap where the wire comes out. > I have a new Pertronix that I purchased from TRF and that wouldn't even fire the car, I got really fed up with that thing and changed it back to the Fireball, luckily I didn't remove the entire Fireball from the car so it was an easy refit and the car fired right up. > BUT, I don't know what is causing the spark jump out of the wires. > Any thoughts??? > It almost seems like there is too much voltage and it's going everywhere, I can almost hear it sparking...... Sorry I forgot to say who I am. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sun Sep 26 13:43:08 2010 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 15:43:08 EDT Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignitions (formerly Looking to buy) Message-ID: How does one test the power of the spark? Is there a certain Amp value using a multimeter? ...Or just listen for the "snap" of the spark when shorting it against the valve cover? I would imagine the best way to check the power of the spark would be to find someone with an operating oscilloscope and knows how to use it. Under load (foot on brake/e-brake set and wheels chocked, in gear, give it gas and ease out the clutch. The voltage to each individual spark plug in the firing order can be measured. I have one and "know" how to use it and it is a resource for our Club to utilize. Randall? Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs Tulsa, OK From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sun Sep 26 13:50:29 2010 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 15:50:29 EDT Subject: [TR] spark jump Message-ID: It almost seems like there is too much voltage and it's going everywhere, I can almost hear it sparking...... Change plug wires? Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs Tulsa, OK From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Sep 26 13:57:57 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 15:57:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: spark jump In-Reply-To: References: <93446AAE-4C5B-4A08-9E12-98FD60B93AA8@mac.com> Message-ID: <201009261557.58059.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday, September 26, 2010 01:36:45 pm Anthony Cascio wrote: > > Subject: spark jump > > > > List, > > I am having trouble getting the 3 running right. > > The car runs good for about one or two miles then it starts to skip real > > bad. I changed plugs, cap, rotor and wires and it did the same thing. I > > am running the fireball electronic ignition. > > When I ran my hand over the wires I got zapped, then I placed an > > insulated pair of pliers around the area where the wires come out of the > > cap and on the lower two wires spark jumped to the pliers. I put the old > > cap and wires on and it did the same thing, again on the lower two wires > > only and right next to the cap where the wire comes out. I have a new > > Pertronix that I purchased from TRF and that wouldn't even fire the car, > > I got really fed up with that thing and changed it back to the Fireball, > > luckily I didn't remove the entire Fireball from the car so it was an > > easy refit and the car fired right up. BUT, I don't know what is causing > > the spark jump out of the wires. Any thoughts??? > > It almost seems like there is too much voltage and it's going everywhere, > > I can almost hear it sparking...... > > Sorry I forgot to say who I am. > > > > Tony Cascio > 58 TR3A > TS27093L > allegrorover at mac.com > www.triumphowners.com/1489 > Tony, Sounds to me like the wires are your problem. They must be grounding to the engine somehow. Could be some moisture or something else on the wires. I have no idea of how there could be too much voltage. I have never worked with electronic systems but with either system the juice is supplied by the coil not the system generating the interruption. In my experience, the only time I had a similar problem was when either the plug ends, cap or wires were wet or oily causing grounding or spark to the wrong cylinder. Another potential problem is arching within the inside of the cap. Sometimes the rotor can generate a carbon trace from terminal to terminal. Very hard to see and only diagnosis is to replace with a new cap. Bob From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 14:01:49 2010 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:01:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] spark jump References: Message-ID: <6543B2CF080C44F2A0DBE985BCC26958@I7QUAD> Tony, The problem is probably bad ignition wires. The insulation is degraded. Another possibility is bad plugs. Too much resistance. The voltage builds up and startsa to jump where it can find the least resistance. At first I was going to say you had a bad coil, but that would cause you to lose spark. You can't have too much spark. Just too much resistance in the wires/plugs. -Tony ----- Original Message ----- > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 13:24:17 -0400 > From: Anthony Cascio > Subject: [TR] spark jump > To: email list > Message-ID: <93446AAE-4C5B-4A08-9E12-98FD60B93AA8 at mac.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > List, > I am having trouble getting the 3 running right. > The car runs good for about one or two miles then it starts to skip real > bad. > I changed plugs, cap, rotor and wires and it did the same thing. > I am running the fireball electronic ignition. > When I ran my hand over the wires I got zapped, then I placed an insulated > pair of pliers around the area where the wires come out of the cap and on > the lower two wires spark jumped to the pliers. > I put the old cap and wires on and it did the same thing, again on the > lower two wires only and right next to the cap where the wire comes out. > I have a new Pertronix that I purchased from TRF and that wouldn't even > fire the car, I got really fed up with that thing and changed it back to > the Fireball, luckily I didn't remove the entire Fireball from the car so > it was an easy refit and the car fired right up. > BUT, I don't know what is causing the spark jump out of the wires. > Any thoughts??? > It almost seems like there is too much voltage and it's going everywhere, > I can almost hear it sparking...... From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Sep 26 14:05:52 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:05:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: <7323140F41C144E6A5DA0397C176AC10@AlexPC> <1a7f01cb5d94$5c6c5e60$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <201009261605.53062.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Alex, I use DOT 4 on my 3 and DOT 5 on my 4 and have never had a problem with the switch. My lights go on with just a little tap. The switches on both cars are original Lucas. If you need a Lucas spare to try out let me know and I can find one in the parts bin. I am sure I have both the screw and spade versions somewhere. But if it was me and the switch stopped working, I would install a 4A type switch and just run the wires back to the switch by just attaching them to the existing harness and run through the firewall and back so not to mess up the engine bay. Bob From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 26 14:10:26 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:10:26 EDT Subject: [TR] spark jump Message-ID: In a message dated 9/26/2010 2:50:50 PM Central Daylight Time, TRDOCTOR at aol.com writes: > It almost seems like there is too much voltage and it's going > everywhere, > I can almost hear it sparking...... > > Change plug wires? > Try changing the plugs. The voltage should only get high enough to jump the plug gap. If the gap is too large or if the plug is defective the voltage will climb higher and higher until it jumps a gap somewhere, either the plug or otherwise. Of course it could be defective wires that aren't conduction to the plugs properly, too. Dave From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 26 14:25:28 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 13:25:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: <7323140F41C144E6A5DA0397C176AC10@AlexPC> <1a7f01cb5d94$5c6c5e60$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1ab401cb5db8$f6224dc0$0301a8c0@randall> > The wire > connections on > the TR3A switch would just be rerouted or extended and simply > attached to > the contacts on the TR6? Yes, that will work fine. I did it that way on my TR3A, just ran two wires from the original harness connections for the brake light switch, over to the switch mounted on the pedal box. In this shot, you can see the switch in the lower RH corner, and the two red wires that run up over the battery and down on the other side to the harness connections. http://tinyurl.com/2ftwuyk I chose a slightly route this time (for the TR3), and got power to the switch from a fuse block I added near the original fuse block. I like having the brake lights on their own fuse. I also elected to have them work even when the ignition switch is off (American style). Just my personal preference, not necessarily any better. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 26 14:37:10 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 13:37:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignitions (formerly Looking to buy) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1ab801cb5dba$982d31b0$0301a8c0@randall> > Randall? Sorry, I don't have an ignition scope. Wanted one for many years, but I've run out of room in the garage for toys (and still haven't picked up the on-car wheel balancer). And I don't have enough nerve to try connecting my HP low voltage scope to a running car engine. FWIW, I tried putting a new Pertronix on my daily driver TR3, and was unhappy with it. The Pertronix is back in the parts bin, and the car is running well on points (although it might be getting time for new ones). I was also less than thrilled with the Crane XR3000 I had on the 3A, but it was better than the Pertronix, IMO. The next thing I try (for the "hotrod" motor I hope to build some day) will probably be a MSD 6 (or equivalent), triggered by a Crane XR700 optical pickup (or equivalent). Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 26 14:42:54 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 13:42:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] spark jump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1ab901cb5dbb$656beb30$0301a8c0@randall> > Of course it could be defective wires that aren't conduction > to the plugs properly, too. Or a bad connection between the wires and plugs. One of our club members had the type of wires with resistors inside the plug boots, and the inside of the boot was falling apart. The excess voltage (he also had a Lucas Sports coil) started jumping through the rotor to the distributor shaft, and ruined the rotor in just a few hundred miles. Easy check for this problem is to measure the resistance of the wire, end to end, while tugging gently on the wire. The exact value is not so important (anything between 0 and 20K ohms is probably OK), but they should all be roughly the same. If one or two wires are several times the resistance of the others, they are probably bad. Modern "carbon core" wires seem especially prone to failure this way. Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Sep 26 17:41:28 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 19:41:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Breather Pipe fitting In-Reply-To: <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> Message-ID: <000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net> I asked this question below - cannot find the response (if there were any) and searching the archive came up empty. When rebuilding the engine for the '3 project, I used a plug in the breather pipe block hole. Forgot to pull it out before installing the engine. Now I am trying to install that pipe and cannot figure out how to get the plug out. There isn't enough room to get a drill or any other tool. Any suggestions? I have a right angle drill but there isn't even clearance for that. What about a 1" hole in the wheel well to access it and then plugging with the 1" plug like on the firewall? Frustrating afternoon. Thanks Carl From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Sep 26 18:02:44 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 19:02:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Breather Pipe fitting In-Reply-To: <000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> <000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net> Message-ID: <20100927000209.A365418787B@autox.team.net> I did it with a skinny right angle attachment on a regular drill and a LOT of 4 letter words, but that was in a TR-4, not a 3. - Tony D At 06:41 PM 9/26/2010, Carl TR wrote: >I asked this question below - cannot find the response (if there were any) >and searching the archive came up empty. > > >When rebuilding the engine for the '3 project, I used a plug in the breather >pipe block hole. Forgot to pull it out before installing the engine. Now >I am trying to install that pipe and cannot figure out how to get the plug >out. > >There isn't enough room to get a drill or any other tool. Any suggestions? > >I have a right angle drill but there isn't even clearance for that. > >What about a 1" hole in the wheel well to access it and then plugging with >the 1" plug like on the firewall? Frustrating afternoon. > >Thanks >Carl > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 26 19:01:02 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 18:01:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Breather Pipe fitting In-Reply-To: <000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> <000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net> Message-ID: <1b1701cb5ddf$74d49490$0301a8c0@randall> > When rebuilding the engine for the '3 project, I used a plug > in the breather pipe block hole. Forgot to pull it out before installing the > engine. What about a long punch/chisel, at an angle; then pry it out? Or, making an extra-short bit to go in the angle drive? For just one shallow hole, you could grind a broken drill shank into a spade bit fairly easily I think. No need for flutes or a fancy cutting tip; just grind in from the sides to create a flat end, then put a couple of cutting lips on it. Kind of like this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Drill_spade_tiny.jpg except I was thinking more like 1/8" or so. You can also buy stubby bits to go in one of these: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGiEuNqX3_g Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Sep 26 19:31:39 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:31:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Bracket Question In-Reply-To: <0L9D00CW4PGOAKGA@vms172077.mailsrvcs.net> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> <000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net> <0L9D00CW4PGOAKGA@vms172077.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <000001cb5de3$bc5138b0$34f3aa10$@net> Another question for the masses... Installing dash (facia) on the '3, specifically the two brackets that connect it to the battery box. One has a a U-shaped cut-out on one end. I cannot remember if there is a purpose for that cut-out. See: http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1319s.jpg It is on only one end of one of the brackets. I have a picture of the 'connection' next to the speedometer and it was not there (if it was installed correctly in the first place). It is not for the trip reset knob (doesn't line up). Thanks. Carl From dlylis at gmail.com Sun Sep 26 19:42:18 2010 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 01:42:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake light switch Message-ID: Alex, I doscovered that mine wa doing the same thing, which caused me great concern when I thought about the Escalade and the H2s that I often see looming in my mirror. I fitted an Oldsmoblie brake light switch directly to the pedal arm and adjusted such that a touch of the pedal produces a bright brake light, immediately. Concourse it ain't. Highly recommended. I found two pressure switches to be woefully inadequate. ------Original Message------ From: Alex Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: *Triumphs List Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake light switch Sent: Sep 26, 2010 11:40 AM Hi all, My 59 TR3 brake lights only come on with an excessive amount of brake pedal pressure. In most cases the lights to not work when approaching a stop unless I apply the brakes in the last moment with full pressure. I am assuming that the switch is not working properly. I am looking at two approaches to solve this obvious safety issue. 1st one is the easiest, replacing the old switch with a new one. My question is, has anyone replaced these switches with a new one and did the new one work with minimal pressure on the brake pedal as one would expect. Or am I going to end up with the same result that I have now. 2nd approach would be to bypass this switch with a brake pedal mounted one like my TR6 brake switch. Any feedback on the TR3 replacement switch would be appreciated. Thx, Alex Manzo 59 TR3 72 TR6 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From lherault at bu.edu Sun Sep 26 20:19:22 2010 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 22:19:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] headlight and dimmer switch-where to put the foot. Message-ID: <009901cb5dea$666f6d20$334e4760$@edu> I'm sure the subject line is a bit confusing. I just rebuilt the headlight switch on my '73 TR6 and tested it out last night. I think the headlights are brighter. Cool. I usually just bend my knee and put my foot a bit to the right and under the clutch pedal in my 6. Just seeing a picture of a TR 3 dimmer and recalling that recently someone said that they rested their foot on the dimmer switch made me remember something. I must have rested my foot on my 3's dimmer too. One day I heard a sproing and found parts rolling around on the floor of the car. Investigation revealed that the rivet holding on the spring loaded cap of the dimmer had worn off and the switch flew apart. A neighbor drilled and tapped the center shaft and we screwed the spring and cover on to restore the dimmer switch to good health. Ron L From wbeech at flash.net Sun Sep 26 23:18:10 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 23:18:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] headlight and dimmer switch-where to put the foot. In-Reply-To: <009901cb5dea$666f6d20$334e4760$@edu> References: <009901cb5dea$666f6d20$334e4760$@edu> Message-ID: <9BF02E25-3A2C-4A8F-B27F-24D1B0439630@flash.net> Ron, Exactly what I did with the switch on my '3' 2,000 miles ago. Still works perfectly, and yes, I do still rest my foot on it. Mobile Bill On Sep 26, 2010, at 8:19 PM, "Ron L'Herault" wrote: > I'm sure the subject line is a bit confusing. > > I just rebuilt the headlight switch on my '73 TR6 and tested it out last > night. I think the headlights are brighter. Cool. > > I usually just bend my knee and put my foot a bit to the right and under the > clutch pedal in my 6. Just seeing a picture of a TR 3 dimmer and recalling > that recently someone said that they rested their foot on the dimmer switch > made me remember something. I must have rested my foot on my 3's dimmer > too. One day I heard a sproing and found parts rolling around on the floor > of the car. Investigation revealed that the rivet holding on the spring > loaded cap of the dimmer had worn off and the switch flew apart. A neighbor > drilled and tapped the center shaft and we screwed the spring and cover on > to restore the dimmer switch to good health. > > Ron L > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR4Zest at gmail.com Mon Sep 27 03:51:40 2010 From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 09:51:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] Spark Jump Message-ID: <000e0cd6ae76cff4e704913aac6f@google.com> Tony - it sounds like you have so much resistance, the spark can't find a way through to ground. It is surprising to read of you getting zapped holding a new, clean, HT lead. Do you have the correct rotor and are you using solid metal-core HT leads? If you have modern, carbon core leads, the screw connection in the distributor cap will make an uncertain connection. If the rotor came with your electronic ignition system (I am not familiar with what you have installed) compare it's dimensions with a traditional rotor. If a different size, it may not be distributing the spark as intended. Brian Valley Forge From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Sep 27 04:01:58 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 06:01:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Breather Pipe fitting In-Reply-To: <000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> <000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net> Message-ID: I have a flexible drill driver cable/shaft thingy that turns 90 degrees easily. Got it at the local home despot or Lowe's. You can get 1/8 inch bits with a hex shaft there, too. From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 27 04:47:58 2010 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 05:47:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Splitting brakes calipers In-Reply-To: <380-22010902612326325@M2W135.mail2web.com> References: <380-22010902612326325@M2W135.mail2web.com> Message-ID: When I split mine I just found a matching o-ring that was break fluid resistant - i think they were from a small hardware store where I could get help. Then I just tightened the bolts back in as tight as I could get. I think I took them apart with my normal 3/8" drive handle so I just used the same handle to tighten them up. Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO NASS #627 http://web.me.com/bobberger/Site/Photos/Photos.html On Sep 26, 2010, at 7:03 AM, v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote: > I am considering splitting my 16p brake calipers on my GT6 (same as > TR3,4,6,) to do a through cleaning and repair, they are after all 40 > years > old. This would entail splitting them. However, as previously > noted on > the lists, no data is available for the torque settings of the > retaining > bolts, and the o-rings are not readily available. I do know that > some of > you have done this and have established some sort of information on > these > settings. > So what torque settings are generally used  > What size o-ring was established- or is the actual o-ring available > > I havent split them yet, but I do know that the Spitfire calipers > have a > rectangular cross section (not just square) o-ring, and as far as I > can > tell these are not available from the usual sources such as McMaster > Carr  > Yes I could look up the torque for bolts of this type, and measure the > o-ring area and establish this myself, but I figured Id tap into the > lists > since this has already been somewhat researched - > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and > application > hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting > _______________________________________________ > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/bberger720 at sbcglobal.net From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Sep 27 05:40:35 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 11:40:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wire Length In-Reply-To: <1939461571.1431770.1285587435002.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2145665450.1431854.1285587635383.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I have a set of nearly solid core ignition wires left over from a V-8 plow truck long-dead-and-gone. Since I'm currently messing with the ignition system anyway, my plan is to cut them down and use them to replace the ones in the TR3. Just curious: How sensitive is it necessary to be when chopping ignition wires to length? On one hand, making a stock short wire shorter, and a long wire longer, would affect the timing by delivering spark sooner and later respectively. On the other hand, the electrical pulse would seem to be so fast, it wouldn't matter. Which is right? (I'm on vacation and obviously have too much time on my hands.) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From aribert at c3net.net Mon Sep 27 07:48:47 2010 From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 09:48:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Fwd: spark jump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3cd59010cba551c90ed0235d05f9817c.squirrel@server6.glis.net> Fireball? - Is this the Crane XR-700 ignition? Have you by chance left the key **on** with the engine not running for more than a couple of minutes recently? I very much like the Crane unit but I have fried (2) modules by leaving the key on while doing some trouble shooting on my Spit bodied GT6 and not disconnecting the power to the Crane unit. The fried module will allow the engine to start & run but at very diminished performance and if memory is correct not at higher rpm (slightly over idle speed) w/o all the rough running symtoms you mentioned. I have carried a spare XR-700 module in the trunk for the past 10 years, just in case I do something stupid and fry the current one. It is my understanding that the Crane XR-3000 unit did not suffer from this issue but I never got around to upgrading. I don't know if this ignition is still available after Crane's bankrupcy. >> Subject: spark jump >> >> List, >> I am having trouble getting the 3 running right. >> The car runs good for about one or two miles then it starts to skip real >> bad. >> I changed plugs, cap, rotor and wires and it did the same thing. >> I am running the fireball electronic ignition. ....... > > Tony Cascio > 58 TR3A > TS27093L > allegrorover at mac.com > www.triumphowners.com/1489 From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Sep 27 08:39:06 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 10:39:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Urethane bushing noise? Message-ID: <16112.4190e136.39d2068a@aol.com> Hey Guys, I have this annoying noise in the passenger side rear suspension of the TR6. It has no pattern to it and randomly sounds like a click you would get with a loose bolt? I could get it to click by working the rear up and down while the car was stationary. So I jacked her up, nothing loose so I freed the trailing arm from the shock link and took the spring out. I could hear the click as I worked the arm up and down with a jack but it was very difficult to tell if the noise was coming from the trailing arm bushings or the inner u-joint? So I squirted some WD40 all over and let it sit overnite. The noise is now gone. I know urethane bushings are notorious for being noisy. I would have lubricated them when I installed them years ago. It may be possible that they have all dried out and just want to squeak and drive me nuts. I suppose it is also possible that the u-joint is bad and the wheel is getting ready to fall off. It would take some further disassembly to really check that out. I does not make any noise when the axle is turned. I can't really feel any play in the axle assembly. Any thoughts? Thanks, Darrell From hdrider570 at att.net Mon Sep 27 08:58:42 2010 From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 07:58:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake light switch Message-ID: <205731.84250.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I have had the brake light switch failure problem on my 1961 TR4 as well. I have replaced it 3 or 4 times now. I recently switched to LED taillights so I am hoping that this will work better. The switch's that I have been using come from Napa Auto Parts. They seem to last about two years. They are not expensive and I can change one out in a few minutes so no big deal there. I have a 90 degree fitting between the switch and the junction block to keep the switch away from the exhaust, as such the switch is facing up so it is an easy swap out. I had assumed that it was the amperage causing the failure but I use silicon brake fluid so perhaps Randal is correct in saying that is what makes them fail. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From davidt at opentext.com Mon Sep 27 09:07:30 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 11:07:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake light switch In-Reply-To: <205731.84250.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <205731.84250.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I ran into this issues just after my build, as Randall stated, the DOT5 is probably the culprit. The simple way I fixed it was to install a GM brake switch on a fabricated bracket under the dash. I then ran a pair of lines which then hooked in parallel to the original pressure switch. I touch the brake pedal the lights come on and it is nice tucked up, in order to see it you need to crawl under the dash. The switch came with two nuts so it was perfectly adjustable over a 3" range. The bracket hooked onto the original mounting bolts so it was clean too. David Templeton '59 tr3a '74 spitsix From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Sep 27 09:09:11 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 10:09:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wire Length References: <2145665450.1431854.1285587635383.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: The "electrical pulse" travels at 186,000 miles/second. At that speed, your spark would be delayed by 0.000000000008485 seconds (give or take a zero...) for every inch increase in length. I don't see a great concern here! Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 6:40 AM Subject: [TR] Wire Length >I have a set of nearly solid core ignition wires left over from a V-8 plow >truck long-dead-and-gone. Since I'm currently messing with the ignition >system anyway, my plan is to cut them down and use them to replace the ones >in the TR3. > > Just curious: How sensitive is it necessary to be when chopping ignition > wires to length? On one hand, making a stock short wire shorter, and a > long wire longer, would affect the timing by delivering spark sooner and > later respectively. On the other hand, the electrical pulse would seem to > be so fast, it wouldn't matter. > > Which is right? > > (I'm on vacation and obviously have too much time on my hands.) > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com From allegrorover at mac.com Mon Sep 27 09:16:32 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 11:16:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: spark jump In-Reply-To: <3cd59010cba551c90ed0235d05f9817c.squirrel@server6.glis.net> References: <3cd59010cba551c90ed0235d05f9817c.squirrel@server6.glis.net> Message-ID: Whoa, I didn't know Crane went out of business, does anyone know where replacement modules might be available? By the way I changed the wires it seems to be better but I have yet to test drive it.......rain. I did find one of the leads had the inner screw cap that had fallen off that may have been most of the problem, it was a new set of wires. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Sep 27 09:57:43 2010 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 10:57:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: spark jump In-Reply-To: References: <3cd59010cba551c90ed0235d05f9817c.squirrel@server6.glis.net> Message-ID: On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 10:16 AM, Anthony Cascio wrote: > Whoa, I didn't know Crane went out of business, does anyone know where > replacement modules might be available? > Crane has new ownership, and new units are available from many sources. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF2767U Highland Park, IL From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Mon Sep 27 10:06:37 2010 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:06:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3/4 block Message-ID: I have a TR4 cylinder block which is cracked at the left rear stud. I have been storing and moving it for way too long for some "just in case" which has yet to happen. I am stripping it of the little bits (crank seal, cam bearing bolts, oil pump bushing, studs) and wonder if I should save the main bearing caps too. Allen From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 27 10:42:03 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 09:42:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fwd: spark jump In-Reply-To: <3cd59010cba551c90ed0235d05f9817c.squirrel@server6.glis.net> References: <3cd59010cba551c90ed0235d05f9817c.squirrel@server6.glis.net> Message-ID: <1bd101cb5e62$ea3a3400$0301a8c0@randall> > I very much like the Crane unit but I have fried (2) modules > by leaving > the key on while doing some trouble shooting on my Spit > bodied GT6 and not > disconnecting the power to the Crane unit. FWIW, they redesigned the module about 10 years ago to eliminate this problem. The new modules can be distinguished by the LED on the end. After a few seconds of no input from the optical pickup, the module shuts down current to the coil, which avoids overheating both the coil and the power transistor inside the module. Just a thought, Tony, have you double-checked that the rotor is not interfering with the pickup? When I installed my XR3000, it had all sorts of strange drivability problems, that eventually turned out to be caused by the "counterweight" cast into the rotor thumping the pickup module. I also had significant problems getting the "phasing" just right ; finally wound up setting it by trial and error. Randall From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Mon Sep 27 10:43:24 2010 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 11:43:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition systems Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E702EDC@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> I know we have covered this ground before, a year or two ago, but the recent reports here of 'fried modules' through the simple act of having the ignition on while troubleshooting something else, plus other catastrophic failures of these not-inexpensive electronic ignition modules, further convinces me to stay in Neanderthal-mode and continue using points. I carry a new ignition set and a 'known to have worked' set with me in the car. That is probably enough for the next several driving seasons; it's a minimal investment that fits in a small medicine tub. I can accept that a perfectly set-up ignition module has the car running better than perfectly well set-up points, but is the difference worth it? Is the difference that marked? Compared to badly adjusted or worn points, I'm sure it is. But compared to points and timing in great shape and adjusted correctly, I wonder? I'm odd in several ways, I'm sure; one among them is that I actually enjoy gapping the points', setting the timing and adjusting valve lash. It's a large part of why I have an old car. YMMV, Brian Valley Forge From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Sep 27 11:18:18 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:18:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake light switch In-Reply-To: <205731.84250.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <575879492.1455680.1285607898954.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> FWIW, I drilled a hole in the master cylinder cage opposite the brake pedal linkage. Then I installed a standard American adjustable plastic brake switch. Depressing the pedal completes the circuit through the switch. Clean, easy to get to, no drips can affect it.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From allegrorover at mac.com Mon Sep 27 11:30:27 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 13:30:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: spark jump In-Reply-To: <1bd101cb5e62$ea3a3400$0301a8c0@randall> References: <3cd59010cba551c90ed0235d05f9817c.squirrel@server6.glis.net> <1bd101cb5e62$ea3a3400$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1AC0C5B3-7360-449E-943C-0159518E9E98@mac.com> Well took the car out for a short ride all went well, really need to go further, but the car ran much better. I believe the new wire with the end screw that came loose was the problem, replaced it with another I had in the shed, but I did check the clearance of the rotor, actually I tried 4 different rotors, (one that wouldn't even fit over the dizzy shaft). For those who have the original points and condenser I will say that that set up is very reliable and I have those as spares, but when I did the restoration I was looking to upgrade as much of the mechanicals as possible, alternator, Toyota 5 speed, gear reduction starter, new harness, etc. But sometimes when a problem shows it's ugly head, I guess we all get a little frustrated, and my use of this list helps me vent in a way and I get feedback from people that have had the same issues and are always willing to help. I appreciate all the comments and suggestions from all you folks. My plan is to google the Crane ignition and see about a spare module, or the new model which I like the sound of so I don't burn it up. Thanks again Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From dave at ranteer.com Mon Sep 27 11:35:37 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:35:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Electronic ignition systems In-Reply-To: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E702EDC@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> References: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E702EDC@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> Message-ID: to answer your question, I had two distributors, both rebuilt by Jeff at Advanced Dsitributors. one was points, the other a pertronix. I have them set up so that they are interchangeable. each has its own new cap, rotor, wires, etc. the goal being something goes wrong I pull one (the whole thing) and bolt in the other. this difference between the two is very noticeable. the pertronix gives me measurably better performance and top speed. my opinion - get your dizzy rebuilt by jeff, and go with the pertronix. have a second dizzy ready to go and you'll never need it. > > I can accept that a perfectly set-up ignition module has the car running > better than perfectly well set-up points, but is the difference worth it? > Is > the difference that marked? Compared to badly adjusted or worn points, I'm > sure it is. But compared to points and timing in great shape and adjusted > correctly, I wonder? From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Sep 27 12:05:52 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 14:05:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition systems Message-ID: In a message dated 9/27/2010 12:46:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com writes: I'm odd in several ways, I'm sure; one among them is that I actually enjoy gapping the points', setting the timing and adjusting valve lash. It's a large part of why I have an old car. YMMV, Brian Valley Forge Hey Brian, Odd one here too. I have stock ignition systems in all my Triumphs and I even once converted my 76 Spitfire 1500 from one of those dang unreliable Lucas Opus electronic distributors as original to an early points distributor Darrell From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 27 12:28:03 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 11:28:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition systems In-Reply-To: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E702EDC@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> References: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E702EDC@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> Message-ID: <06a801cb5e71$ba2bd020$2e837060$@rr.com> > I can accept that a perfectly set-up ignition module has the car > running > better than perfectly well set-up points, IMO, that actually doesn't happen; at least not to any measurable extent. With the Pertronix, XR-700 and similar devices; the energy delivered the spark plug is determined by the coil, not by the module. All the module does is provide "perfect" points continuously, rather than the constant degradation of mechanical points (plus whatever timing error is caused by shaft wobble and consequent changes in point gap). To deliver more spark energy requires something like a MSD-6, that has its own high voltage power generation and only uses the coil as a step-up transformer. Even then, the benefit is dubious under 'normal' conditions. Where the extra energy helps is things like starting, or extreme high rpm, or fouled plugs; where misfire is likely. -- Randall From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz Mon Sep 27 13:03:42 2010 From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (Sandra and Trevor Hardy) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 08:03:42 +1300 Subject: [TR] Noise in rear end... Message-ID: Hi all.....I had, for 13 years, a 1973 Triumph 2500 sedan. Great car. Occasionaly, I would get this "Sproing" noise from the back end. Turns out that it was a stone lodged firmly in the cavity where the coil spring sits. Every time the spring was compressed, "sproing"!! This is the same back end that the IRS 4's, and the 6's have. FWIW......Trev. Feilding, New Zealand... From jheff123 at msn.com Mon Sep 27 13:14:24 2010 From: jheff123 at msn.com (John Heffron) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 15:14:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Concours Question - Lucas PL700 or P700 Headlamps for TR3A's Message-ID: Listers: I recently purchased a 1960 TR3A. I was thinking about changing the headlamps to Lucas PL700 or P700's. As I want to keep the car pretty original, I am wondering if and how Lucas PL700 or P700 headlamps are considered in concours judging within VTR or TRA rules? Thanks John 1960 TR3A From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Sep 27 13:27:23 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 13:27:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Urethane bushing noise? In-Reply-To: <16112.4190e136.39d2068a@aol.com> References: <16112.4190e136.39d2068a@aol.com> Message-ID: <65A90251-3F68-4911-A8DB-B5EFA1EF46EE@comcast.net> Darrell, If the noise comes back try dabbing marine wheel bearing grease (its a blue/green color) around the edges of the bushings and any interface that might "take up" the grease. My front sway bar urethane bushings started to make noise after being installed and I DIDN'T know to grease them beforehand so on advice from the list I tried the marine grease and they quieted down and haven't had a problem since (12 years)...except that now that I've said that I'll probably regret it. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 27, 2010, at 8:39 AM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > So I squirted some WD40 all over and let it sit > overnite. The noise is now gone. From deruiterville at hotmail.com Mon Sep 27 14:07:39 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 15:07:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3/4 block In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Can't hurt if you have the room to store the caps - a friend of mine just redid a worn out TR4 engine and it had a bad center cap. Used a replacement cap and with a line bore everything worked out fine. Randy > > I have a TR4 cylinder block which is cracked at the left rear stud. I > have been storing and moving it for way too long for some "just in > case" which has yet to happen. I am stripping it of the little bits > (crank seal, cam bearing bolts, oil pump bushing, studs) and wonder if > I should save the main bearing caps too. > > Allen From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Sep 27 14:54:31 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 16:54:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Concours Question - Lucas PL700 or P700 Headlamps for TR3A's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD2C9D515815D0-1928-E96@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> I generally consider the PL-700 to be more suitable as an option for later TR4/4A, etc., where the P-700 (the one with the little round shield in the center) would be "correct" as optional fitment for TR2 through early TR4. It is the P-700 that is pictured in any number of factory photos of "home market" cars at least up through the introduction of the TR4. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: John Heffron I recently purchased a 1960 TR3A. I was thinking about changing the headlamps to Lucas PL700 or P700's. As I want to keep the car pretty original, I am wondering if and how Lucas PL700 or P700 headlamps are considered in concours judging within VTR or TRA rules? From dlylis at gmail.com Mon Sep 27 16:24:37 2010 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 22:24:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] Wire Length Message-ID: Geez man, if you have your TR tuned with such precision that the length of the wire makes a difference in quality of performance, I bow deeply at your feet. ------Original Message------ From: terryrs at comcast.net Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Wire Length Sent: Sep 27, 2010 7:40 AM I have a set of nearly solid core ignition wires left over from a V-8 plow truck long-dead-and-gone. Since I'm currently messing with the ignition system anyway, my plan is to cut them down and use them to replace the ones in the TR3. Just curious: How sensitive is it necessary to be when chopping ignition wires to length? On one hand, making a stock short wire shorter, and a long wire longer, would affect the timing by delivering spark sooner and later respectively. On the other hand, the electrical pulse would seem to be so fast, it wouldn't matter. Which is right? (I'm on vacation and obviously have too much time on my hands.) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Sep 27 17:04:45 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:04:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Urethane bushing noise? Message-ID: <14272.6d806035.39d27d0d@aol.com> That sounds good Bud, Cover tem in Marine Grease. Much better than WD40!!! Thanks, Darrell In a message dated 9/27/2010 3:27:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, levilevi at comcast.net writes: Darrell, If the noise comes back try dabbing marine wheel bearing grease (its a blue/green color) around the edges of the bushings and any interface that might "take up" the grease. My front sway bar urethane bushings started to make noise after being installed and I DIDN'T know to grease them beforehand so on advice from the list I tried the marine grease and they quieted down and haven't had a problem since (12 years)...except that now that I've said that I'll probably regret it. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 27, 2010, at 8:39 AM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > So I squirted some WD40 all over and let it sit > overnite. The noise is now gone. From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Sep 27 17:11:11 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 23:11:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] Wire Length In-Reply-To: References: <2145665450.1431854.1285587635383.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C854AE@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> I bet you could eliminate much of that delay by super cooling the wire. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Marr Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 11:09 AM To: terryrs at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Length The "electrical pulse" travels at 186,000 miles/second. At that speed, your spark would be delayed by 0.000000000008485 seconds (give or take a zero...) for every inch increase in length. I don't see a great concern here! Mike From ols at bcdef.net Mon Sep 27 17:28:07 2010 From: ols at bcdef.net (Alexander Delis) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:28:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch assy Message-ID: <5458F866-AA10-4110-A190-70A82C383B32@bcdef.net> List I know this has been discussed before, but I will admit to not having paid much attention as it was not relevant at time . . . It is time for me to get the OD trans installed in my TR3. I have heard all sorts of horror stories about different clutch/pressure plate/ TO bearing manufacturers. As I REALLY don't want to pull the tranny more than once, what is the recommended setup? Sources for the recommended parts? Also, I understand that it is recommended to put in a hardened pin in the clutch release mechanism. Any suggestions there? All suggestions or comments appreciated. Thanks Alex 1958 TR3 TS33884LO 1968 GT6 KC10303 1976 TR6 CF51981U From dave at ranteer.com Mon Sep 27 18:09:46 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:09:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re: Concours Question - Lucas PL700 or P700 Headlamps for TR3A's In-Reply-To: <8CD2C9D515815D0-1928-E96@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD2C9D515815D0-1928-E96@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <699A78435EBE4AF29705BCFF5904BDBA@ranteer.local> I really like the look of the tripod headlights > I recently purchased a 1960 TR3A. I was thinking about changing the > headlamps > to Lucas PL700 or P700's. As I want to keep the car pretty original, I > am > wondering if and how Lucas PL700 or P700 headlamps are considered in > concours > judging within VTR or TRA rules? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 27 18:16:00 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:16:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch assy In-Reply-To: <5458F866-AA10-4110-A190-70A82C383B32@bcdef.net> References: <5458F866-AA10-4110-A190-70A82C383B32@bcdef.net> Message-ID: <075301cb5ea2$5739f4c0$05adde40$@rr.com> > I have heard all sorts of horror stories about different > clutch/pressure > plate/ TO bearing manufacturers. Alex, the horror stories are all for the later TR4A-6 clutch. IMO you should be just fine using the stock TR3 clutch components, just by adding reinforcement for the taper pin. I used a 1/4" diameter grade 8 bolt, but there are various other options discussed at http://tinyurl.com/24k6jfv You might want to consider having your old pressure plate rebuilt, or even reusing it as-is. I have never managed to wear one out, and had probably 200,000 miles on my old one (before swapping it out for a lighter weight TR4A clutch along with alloy flywheel, etc). Ditto the friction plate (although I did replace it once as it was kind of worn and the gearbox was out for other reasons). My FLAPS could send them both out for rebuilding for under $100, with a 2 week turn-around as I recall. Don't forget the operating shaft, and the bushings it rides in. -- Randall From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Mon Sep 27 19:31:14 2010 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 18:31:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition systems In-Reply-To: <06a801cb5e71$ba2bd020$2e837060$@rr.com> References: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E702EDC@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> <06a801cb5e71$ba2bd020$2e837060$@rr.com> Message-ID: <001601cb5eac$d7845170$868cf450$@rr.com> Hmm .. the real key in determining points versus electronic modules is the discharge of the coil primary. Points and electronic modules only trigger "The Event", so the key to performance is how true the trigger is. I would be interested in seeing some scope data of the points versus the Pertronix leading edge. I would venture to bet that the Pertronix was faster and more consistent than points (at a constant rev), which would make it a better than points ignition system. While I have no data to support this, I believe when the points separate it causes a spark and thus has some resistance to it, more than the Hall Effects in electronic modules. That resistance may slow down the discharge process and could cause issues at higher revs. Where that number is is a good question. Pertronix's reliability is also still a question though in my mind, so by default a working unit is better than a non-working one! Johnnie '67 TR4A with points. > > I can accept that a perfectly set-up ignition module has the car > > running > > better than perfectly well set-up points, > > IMO, that actually doesn't happen; at least not to any measurable > extent. > With the Pertronix, XR-700 and similar devices; the energy delivered > the > spark plug is determined by the coil, not by the module. All the > module > does is provide "perfect" points continuously, rather than the constant > degradation of mechanical points (plus whatever timing error is caused > by > shaft wobble and consequent changes in point gap). From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 27 20:00:53 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:00:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition systems In-Reply-To: <001601cb5eac$d7845170$868cf450$@rr.com> References: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E702EDC@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> <06a801cb5e71$ba2bd020$2e837060$@rr.com> <001601cb5eac$d7845170$868cf450$@rr.com> Message-ID: <07a201cb5eb0$fc08a0b0$f419e210$@rr.com> > While I have no data to support this, I believe when the points > separate it > causes a spark and thus has some resistance to it, more than the Hall > Effects in electronic modules. OTOH, when the points are closed, they have very nearly zero resistance, while the Pertronix still has measurable forward voltage drop, meaning the coil doesn't charge quite as high. And even with points, the rise time is very fast compared to engine rotation. I doubt you'd see the difference on a scope. Even if it does make a difference, is more spark advance necessarily a Good Thing? Might lead to preignition at high revs, definitely a Bad Thing in my book This wasn't caused by too much advance, but I think helps demonstrate the point http://tinyurl.com/2ea9v4r -- Randall From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Mon Sep 27 20:30:58 2010 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:30:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Noise in rear end... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001701cb5eb5$2feb6a80$8fc23f80$@rr.com> The title reminds me of the Great Crepidation Contest of 1946 http://randsesotericotr.podbean.com/2008/05/14/the-great-crepitation-contest -of-1946/ If you've never experienced this ... you won't forget it. Go to the bottom of the page and "listen". From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Mon Sep 27 20:36:25 2010 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 22:36:25 EDT Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <588cb.1980b9aa.39d2aea9@aol.com> I'm odd in several ways, I'm sure; one among them is that I actually enjoy gapping the points', setting the timing and adjusting valve lash. It's a large part of why I have an old car. I'm not sure how many folks out there actually know how to use a dwell meter to set points, but, that is the way I do it and seems to be a lost art. It is more accurate than a feeler gauge and I carry one in each of my cars. I have points in all of our Triumphs. Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs Tulsa, OK From spitlist at cox.net Mon Sep 27 20:42:17 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:42:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <588cb.1980b9aa.39d2aea9@aol.com> Message-ID: <20100928024239.TIPH23088.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> Sam, I used to think that way too until I installed electronic fuel injection and ignition. Now I wonder why I was so patient trying to start the thing on cold mornings. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:36 PM To: TR250Driver at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] (no subject) I'm odd in several ways, I'm sure; one among them is that I actually enjoy gapping the points', setting the timing and adjusting valve lash. It's a large part of why I have an old car. I'm not sure how many folks out there actually know how to use a dwell meter to set points, but, that is the way I do it and seems to be a lost art. It is more accurate than a feeler gauge and I carry one in each of my cars. I have points in all of our Triumphs. Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs Tulsa, OK _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Mon Sep 27 20:47:47 2010 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:47:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition systems In-Reply-To: <07a201cb5eb0$fc08a0b0$f419e210$@rr.com> References: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E702EDC@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> <06a801cb5e71$ba2bd020$2e837060$@rr.com> <001601cb5eac$d7845170$868cf450$@rr.com> <07a201cb5eb0$fc08a0b0$f419e210$@rr.com> Message-ID: <001801cb5eb7$89689630$9c39c290$@rr.com> > Even if it does make a difference, is more spark advance necessarily a > Good > Thing? What we're talking about here, given all other things equal, is if the trigger mechanism is better using points or an electronic module. The real key is whether or not the "trigger" is more consistent; did it fire when it was supposed to and maximize the highest voltage spark it could. Given that our cars are old (like me) the condition of the dizzy probably has a bigger affect than anything else. Does anybody know if any of the electronic modules influences the coil charge/discharge cycle based on engine speed? Or is it just a stupid switch? If so then that influencing could affect advance and high/low engine rev performance. I thought that the Pertronix was just a stupid switch and the dizzy springs/weights controlled the advance. Johnnie '67 TR4A with points From spitlist at cox.net Mon Sep 27 20:58:50 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:58:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition systems In-Reply-To: <001801cb5eb7$89689630$9c39c290$@rr.com> Message-ID: <20100928025851.VGGT3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> For what it is worth, most of the so-called "electronic ignition systems that are offered as aftermarket upgrades are really only an electronic trigger and don't do anything about controlling the engine timing at different RPM. If you want that sort of thing you will probably have to invest in a much more comprehensive (read: expensive) system. These by and large also include an ECU which will also control an electronic fuel injection system. I installed one of these (SDS) on my Mk1 Spitfire and although I invested over $2000 in the system, I feel that it is well worth the effort and expense. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John & Pat Donnelly Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:48 PM To: 'Randall'; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Electronic ignition systems > Even if it does make a difference, is more spark advance necessarily a > Good > Thing? What we're talking about here, given all other things equal, is if the trigger mechanism is better using points or an electronic module. The real key is whether or not the "trigger" is more consistent; did it fire when it was supposed to and maximize the highest voltage spark it could. Given that our cars are old (like me) the condition of the dizzy probably has a bigger affect than anything else. Does anybody know if any of the electronic modules influences the coil charge/discharge cycle based on engine speed? Or is it just a stupid switch? If so then that influencing could affect advance and high/low engine rev performance. I thought that the Pertronix was just a stupid switch and the dizzy springs/weights controlled the advance. Johnnie '67 TR4A with points From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 27 21:00:17 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 23:00:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <20100928024239.TIPH23088.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> References: <20100928024239.TIPH23088.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> Message-ID: <634091516D3A45788AF3FB75016216A4@BobPC> I'm with Joe.......... there's a lot to be said about upgrading to TBI! Over three years with the same plugs and no adjustment of the timing. Not to mention, no backfires, no misses, great mileage etc....... not for everyone but it was the best upgrade for me. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Joe Curry" Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 10:42 PM To: ; ; Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject) > Sam, > I used to think that way too until I installed electronic fuel injection > and > ignition. Now I wonder why I was so patient trying to start the thing on > cold mornings. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TRDOCTOR at aol.com > Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:36 PM > To: TR250Driver at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] (no subject) > > I'm odd in several ways, I'm sure; one among them is that I actually > enjoy > gapping the points', setting the timing and adjusting valve lash. It's a > large part of why I have an old car. > > I'm not sure how many folks out there actually know how to use a dwell > meter to set points, but, that is the way I do it and seems to be a lost > art. > It is more accurate than a feeler gauge and I carry one in each of my > cars. I have points in all of our Triumphs. > > Sam Clark > Green Country Triumphs > Tulsa, OK From tr4zest at gmail.com Tue Sep 28 02:40:31 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 04:40:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignition Systems Message-ID: >> I can accept that a perfectly set-up ignition module has the car >> running >> better than perfectly well set-up points, > IMO, that actually doesn't happen; at least not to any measurable extent. > With the Pertronix, XR-700 and similar devices; the energy delivered the > spark plug is determined by the coil, not by the module. All the module > does is provide "perfect" points continuously, rather than the constant > degradation of mechanical points (plus whatever timing error is caused by >shaft wobble and consequent changes in point gap). Randall - my point was accepting an ignition module could have the car running better through improved precision of spark delivery ... at least before they fail. Brian From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 28 05:51:10 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 07:51:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition systems In-Reply-To: <07a201cb5eb0$fc08a0b0$f419e210$@rr.com> References: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E702EDC@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET><06a801cb5e71$ba2bd020$2e837060$@rr.com><001601cb5eac$d7845170$868cf450$@rr.com> <07a201cb5eb0$fc08a0b0$f419e210$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD2D1A93C721DF-1B00-10D9E@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com> And even with points, the rise time is very fast compared to engine rotation. I doubt you'd see the difference on a scope. Don't forget the condenser. When the points open the current flowing through the coil now flows through the capacitor (er, condenser, excuse me) and the voltage across the capacitor (er, condenser, excuse me) will rise at a rate based on the current flow and the value of the capacitor (er, oh, never mind) following a first order differential equation. That is why the engine won't run without a good condenser. This voltage rate of rise is slow enough to make the rate of point opening irrelevant in most cases. I've never taken apart a Crane unit (I've never had one fail) but I suspect that there is the equivalent condenser inside there for the same reason. Most flybacks have some sort of rate-of-rise control. Dave From spitlist at cox.net Tue Sep 28 09:55:50 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 08:55:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignition Systems In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100928155546.LHVH3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> My experience with Pertronix is that they do a decent job and have the advantage over points in that there is no wear that will change the adjustment. So it is unnecessary to do anything with it until as you say....They Fail! Joe Randall - my point was accepting an ignition module could have the car running better through improved precision of spark delivery ... at least before they fail. Brian From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 10:10:03 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 09:10:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Coker Michelin Redlines Message-ID: We are doing our last Concours d'Elegance Sunday, after several years, and me reaching 76 years of age it is just too much work. SO I will be replacing the 185/15 Coker Michelin Redlines with new 205/70 15 Michelin Hydroedge. The Cokers look great, and are in very good shape, however the date code is 398 ... which translates to made the 3rd week of 1998. So not good for a driver, but if someone would like them for a display car / trailer queen I would be happy to make a deal. New ones from Coker are $156 each. I have four that I would sell for $200 + shipping. If anyone is interested they will be available after next Wednesday. Happy Motoring ... -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 10:20:39 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 09:20:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignition Systems In-Reply-To: <20100928155546.LHVH3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> References: <20100928155546.LHVH3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> Message-ID: I have used Pertronix on both the TR6 and TR3 with Zero problems for over 5 years, we drive our cars and have never had any hint of a failure. As a matter of fact I liked them so much I got the Pertronix distributor for the TR3, and that piece of equipment is a work of art. Nope, not even close to original, but neither is most of the stuff on the TR3, and now that we are no longer doing Concours with the TR6 I will probably get another one for that car. I simply do not understand the reluctance to accept 50 year old technology, when such modern equipment is available. From what I read most of the failures were due to improper installation (did they read the instructions ... ;-)). Kind of reminds me of the Toyota "unintended acceleration" problem that has turned out to be 98% driver error ... >My experience with Pertronix is that they do a decent job and have the >advantage over points in that there is no wear that will change the >adjustment. So it is unnecessary to do anything with it until as you >say....They Fail! > >Joe > > >Randall - my point was accepting an ignition module could have the car >running better through improved precision of spark delivery ... at least >before they fail. > >Brian -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From npaul72464 at aol.com Tue Sep 28 10:21:52 2010 From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:21:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignition Systems In-Reply-To: <20100928155546.LHVH3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> Message-ID: <8CD2D4065232156-1C70-9F0@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> I've had the Pertronix in my Healey for over 10 years and many 1000's of miles and my TR3A for 5 years and probably 20000 miles with no problems. So far so good (but keep points in the tool bag). Ned Paulsen 1960 Healey BN7 1958 TR3A -----Original Message----- From: Joe Curry To: 'Brian Jones' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 28, 2010 11:55 am Subject: Re: [TR] Electronic Ignition Systems My experience with Pertronix is that they do a decent job and have the advantage over points in that there is no wear that will change the adjustment. So it is unnecessary to do anything with it until as you say....They Fail! Joe Randall - my point was accepting an ignition module could have the car running better through improved precision of spark delivery ... at least before they fail. Brian _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/npaul72464 at aol.com From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Tue Sep 28 11:16:44 2010 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 13:16:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignition Message-ID: <2D492657-EE17-450A-A0B6-E8DA8BAF922A@gmail.com> I have used CraneCams ignition systems for decades in MBGs, Midgets, & my current TR3. The reason I like electronic ignition is that all my LBCs have started & run like my wife's Honda. I put the control box back inside the driver's side footwell, both to keep it a little cooler and out-of-sight. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 28 11:59:42 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:59:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition systems In-Reply-To: <8CD2D1A93C721DF-1B00-10D9E@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com> References: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E702EDC@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET><06a801cb5e71$ba2bd020$2e837060$@rr.com><001601cb5eac$d7845170$868cf450$@rr.com> <07a201cb5eb0$fc08a0b0$f419e210$@rr.com> <8CD2D1A93C721DF-1B00-10D9E@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <086d01cb5f36$edae58d0$c90b0a70$@rr.com> > Don't forget the condenser I wasn't. According to a white paper written by Dan Masters, the condenser limits the rate of rise of the primary to around 50 amps per millisecond. I'm not sure offhand exactly how that translates into delay before the spark happens, but since the primary current is less than 5 amps, it should provide an upper bound of 100 microseconds for the primary current to be zero, which should be at least somewhat after the spark happens. At 6000 rpm, the crank only moves 36 degrees per millisecond, or 3.6 degrees in 100 us. Enough to make some difference in performance, but unless your scope is a lot better than mine, not enough to see on a scope. And my point before was that, since advance curves are typically determined empirically, the advance curve compensates for the delay caused by the condenser/capacitor. If you remove the delay, the curve becomes too aggressive. FWIW, I found a CDI patent that states with the CDI, the primary rise time is limited to approx 2 us, but that the coil delays this to 15 us at the output. -- Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Sep 28 12:37:08 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 14:37:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Concours Question - Lucas PL700 or P700 Headlamps for TR3A's Message-ID: <2210c.5a254a98.39d38fd4@aol.com> In a message dated 9/27/2010 3:16:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jheff123 at msn.com writes: Listers: I recently purchased a 1960 TR3A. I was thinking about changing the headlamps to Lucas PL700 or P700's. As I want to keep the car pretty original, I am wondering if and how Lucas PL700 or P700 headlamps are considered in concours judging within VTR or TRA rules? Thanks John 1960 TR3A John, I put forth your question to the TRA forum. This was one of the comments put forth by John Warfield, TRA President and Concours Guru at both TRA & VTR: We used the F700 sealed beam from the onset (in various styles); PL's while very nice, and available during sidescreen production, would have to be considered an accessory, or more accurately, a 'period upgrade'. What saves them from deduction in TRA, as opposed to say, a Le Mans style gas cap, is that they are considered expendable items, like batteries or tyres. VTR takes a similar approach and would not deduct for period style headlamps of any brand. Cheers, Darrell VTR Chief Judge From tr6driver at earthlink.net Tue Sep 28 14:12:51 2010 From: tr6driver at earthlink.net (Jamie Palmer) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 16:12:51 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Euro or other taller differential needed Message-ID: <12903364.1285704771705.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net> RiffRAF Racing is in need of a TR6 differential with a taller rear end ratio (i.e. numerically smaller) than the stock 3.7:1 US setup. One possibility would be the 3.45:1 from a PI car. We're open to other suggestions, but since our car is supposed to be worth no more than $500 by the rules, some of the more common (for example, the GoodParts conversions) are out of our reach. Anyone got a Euro diff around? The car is at max RPM way early on straights. For example, we were at the rev limit for the entire front straight at Roebling Road, and were actually driving the entire course in 4th gear. Even at Sebring last weekend, when our engine was entirely off song, we could hit max RPM really quickly. An overdrive would push the car past the race series value limit, and while taller tires would help, they would also hurt the handling considerably (we're currently using 205/50-15 Falken RT615K's on stock wheels due to treadwear rules and wheel cost rules). All suggestions are appreciated...thanks. Jamie Palmer RiffRAF Racing 1975 TR6 ChumpCar From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 28 14:12:59 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 13:12:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electronic ignition systems In-Reply-To: <001801cb5eb7$89689630$9c39c290$@rr.com> References: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E87042E702EDC@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> <06a801cb5e71$ba2bd020$2e837060$@rr.com> <001601cb5eac$d7845170$868cf450$@rr.com> <07a201cb5eb0$fc08a0b0$f419e210$@rr.com> <001801cb5eb7$89689630$9c39c290$@rr.com> Message-ID: <088d01cb5f49$8f427660$adc76320$@rr.com> > I thought that the Pertronix was just a stupid switch and > the dizzy springs/weights controlled the advance. I believe the Pertronix unit is just a (very) stupid switch. The newer Crane might be a bit smarter, ISTR reading that it adjusts dwell time based on engine rpm to optimize high rpm spark without overheating the coil at lower rpm. But AFAIK none of the common conversions does anything about adjusting spark timing, except to hopefully reduce the effects of shaft wobble (due to a worn out distributor) and eliminate timing/dwell changes due to wear of the rubbing block on points. There are systems that do adjust spark timing, but as Joe notes, they are generally much more expensive and usually involve a crank trigger to derive timing. -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 28 14:25:44 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 13:25:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Euro or other taller differential needed In-Reply-To: <12903364.1285704771705.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <12903364.1285704771705.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <6139.45825.qm@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Jamie im not sure what series your racing in. in the 24 hours of lemons you can trade items for net $0. so do you have anything left over from the standard car to trade out? frank ________________________________ From: Jamie Palmer To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs Sent: Tue, September 28, 2010 1:12:51 PM Subject: [TR] Euro or other taller differential needed RiffRAF Racing is in need of a TR6 differential with a taller rear end ratio (i.e. numerically smaller) than the stock 3.7:1 US setup. One possibility would be the 3.45:1 from a PI car. We're open to other suggestions, but since our car is supposed to be worth no more than $500 by the rules, some of the more common (for example, the GoodParts conversions) are out of our reach. Anyone got a Euro diff around? The car is at max RPM way early on straights. For example, we were at the rev limit for the entire front straight at Roebling Road, and were actually driving the entire course in 4th gear. Even at Sebring last weekend, when our engine was entirely off song, we could hit max RPM really quickly. An overdrive would push the car past the race series value limit, and while taller tires would help, they would also hurt the handling considerably (we're currently using 205/50-15 Falken RT615K's on stock wheels due to treadwear rules and wheel cost rules). All suggestions are appreciated...thanks. Jamie Palmer RiffRAF Racing 1975 TR6 ChumpCar _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tr6driver at earthlink.net Tue Sep 28 14:46:22 2010 From: tr6driver at earthlink.net (Jamie) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 16:46:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Euro or other taller differential needed In-Reply-To: <6139.45825.qm@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <12903364.1285704771705.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <6139.45825.qm@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7BB698B7-E249-4E7D-8CF1-3ADCD43F3DE4@earthlink.net> We're in Chumpcar. Basically, the CC rules say that if you take the safety equipment/wheels/tires off the car, what you have left had better not be worth more than $500. And we are trying to keep within both the spirit and letter of the rules.... ;-) Jamie Palmer On Sep 28, 2010, at 4:25 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > Jamie > im not sure what series your racing in. > in the 24 hours of lemons you can trade items for net $0. > so do you have anything left over from the standard car to trade out? > frank > > From: Jamie Palmer > To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs > Sent: Tue, September 28, 2010 1:12:51 PM > Subject: [TR] Euro or other taller differential needed > > RiffRAF Racing is in need of a TR6 differential with a taller rear > end ratio (i.e. numerically smaller) than the stock 3.7:1 US setup. > One possibility would be the 3.45:1 from a PI car. We're open to > other suggestions, but since our car is supposed to be worth no more > than $500 by the rules, some of the more common (for example, the > GoodParts conversions) are out of our reach. > > Anyone got a Euro diff around? > > The car is at max RPM way early on straights. For example, we were > at the rev limit for the entire front straight at Roebling Road, and > were actually driving the entire course in 4th gear. Even at > Sebring last weekend, when our engine was entirely off song, we > could hit max RPM really quickly. > > An overdrive would push the car past the race series value limit, > and while taller tires would help, they would also hurt the handling > considerably (we're currently using 205/50-15 Falken RT615K's on > stock wheels due to treadwear rules and wheel cost rules). > > All suggestions are appreciated...thanks. > > Jamie Palmer > RiffRAF Racing > 1975 TR6 ChumpCar > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From trguy at cfl.rr.com Tue Sep 28 17:29:37 2010 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 19:29:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Steering wheel Removal Message-ID: Any suggestions on removing a wooden aftermarket steering wheel from a TR4. I have the nut undone and just threaded back on the shaft to protect from pulling the wheel off and smacking me in the face (don't ask me how I learned this). The wheel seems pretty secure and I don't have a steering wheel puller tool. Thanks in advance, Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 62 TR4 CT5212LO 75 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 28 18:00:01 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 17:00:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Steering wheel Removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <08c801cb5f69$4452e840$ccf8b8c0$@rr.com> > The wheel seems pretty secure and I don't have a steering wheel > puller tool. If the wheel is tapped for it, my suggestion would be to just get the tool. Many auto parts stores will loan you one, if you leave a deposit. Or a quick Google turned up several of them for under $20. You could even build your own (but hardly worth the effort for that price, IMO). -- Randall From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Sep 28 18:10:49 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 20:10:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Steering wheel Removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD2D81E7DC1D42-1628-39A0@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com> On the TR4 column, probably all you'd need to do is a: exactly what you've done with the nut, keeping it on enough so as not to damage some very fragile threads, and then b: have someone center a suitable drift slightly smaller than the column and tap it with a hammer while you pull on both sides of the wheel. Generally, it takes only a couple of taps to loosen a wheel on these columns, and you shouldn't need a puller at all! (In fact, sometimes just the pulling on it is enough to free it.) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: James Henningsen Any suggestions on removing a wooden aftermarket steering wheel from a TR4. I have the nut undone and just threaded back on the shaft to protect from pulling the wheel off and smacking me in the face (don't ask me how I learned this). From wbeech at flash.net Wed Sep 29 00:09:10 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 00:09:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] Electronic Ignition Systems In-Reply-To: <8CD2D4065232156-1C70-9F0@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100928155546.LHVH3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> <8CD2D4065232156-1C70-9F0@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: This is all very interesting, I never considered electronic ignition systems as they seemed a little intimidating. Anyway, my cars ran just fine with the electrics they were born with. Case in point: My TR3, that came out after 17 years of storage 3 years ago, still has the same set of points, plugs, condenser, rotor, cap & wires that it had when I got it. Of course I have cleaned and re-set everything. But my point is that these components are made to operate correctly, without failure, when properly installed, adjusted and maintained. My car always starts quickly and runs great. Do you really get that much more raw performance out of the electronic systems? Now watch, I'll be on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck this weekend as punishment for my boastfulness. Bill I've had the Pertronix in my Healey for over 10 years and many 1000's of miles and my TR3A for 5 years and probably 20000 miles with no problems. So far so good (but keep points in the tool bag). Ned Paulsen 1960 Healey BN7 1958 TR3A My experience with Pertronix is that they do a decent job and have the advantage over points in that there is no wear that will change the adjustment. So it is unnecessary to do anything with it until as you say....They Fail! Joe Randall - my point was accepting an ignition module could have the car running better through improved precision of spark delivery ... at least before they fail. Brian From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Wed Sep 29 00:51:16 2010 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 29 Sep 2010 08:51:16 +0200 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Electronic_ignition_systems?= Message-ID: The 123ignition is quite a clever switch, which measures the energy taken by the coil on each firing. It adjusts the "dwell angle" on each stroke so that your coil neither heats up on low revs nor is undersupplied with energy on high revs. It cuts out the current from the coil after the engine has come to a rest even if you forget to switch off the ignition key. It eliminates all the disadvantages of shaft wobble and worn out springs and weights in the dizzy simply because it is triggered by hall effect and does not have any springs and weights. It doesn't need a crank trigger, it is more or less a plug & play system with all the electronics built into the dizzy housing. The advance curve is taken from a programmed matrix and you have no moving parts inside the dizzy except of the shaft and rotor. You can either select one of 16 pre-programmed advance curves by turning a little rotary switch (123ignition version) or by storing two advance curves to your like into the eprom (via USB-cable) of the dizzy (123\TUNE version). These two curves can be switched during driving and can be replaced as often as you want. The software which can be downloaded for free has a so-called tuning-mode, which allows the (co-)driver to change the advance curve while the car is running under several load and rpm situations. The timing (rpm- and loadwise) can be optimized in dashboard mode with the help of an implemented stopwatch. These features can save a lot of dyno hours. The price is higher than most of these Pertronix units, but stays well in the 3 digit $s. Ok, it is not made in the US, but Europe, which is far away from Asia. If you have any questions on the above described ignition systems, just ask me via info[at]brits-n-pieces.com. I'll be more than happy to answer them. I hope you don't mind this shameless self-promotion but I thought this might be of interest to all of you. Eric Brits'n'Pieces www.brits-n-pieces.com From gdewine at aol.com Wed Sep 29 12:36:30 2010 From: gdewine at aol.com (gdewine at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 14:36:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starting a TR7 Message-ID: <8CD2E1C5E6D8662-1E94-110A@webmail-m046.sysops.aol.com> I have a 1980 TR7 That has not been started in many years. The motor turns freely and plugs have spark. Any advice on getting it to start. Gary 1980 TR7 = From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 29 15:44:01 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 14:44:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] off topic Message-ID: <441350.70356.qm@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Irve Cory please contact me off list. apologies if i spelt your name wrong Frank Fisher From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Sep 29 16:10:39 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 18:10:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Bracket Question In-Reply-To: <000001cb5de3$bc5138b0$34f3aa10$@net> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> <000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net> <0L9D00CW4PGOAKGA@vms172077.mailsrvcs.net> <000001cb5de3$bc5138b0$34f3aa10$@net> Message-ID: <000001cb6023$28ec0770$7ac41650$@net> I didn't see a response to this so I thought I would resend. Thanks Carl -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 9:32 PM Another question for the masses... Installing dash (facia) on the '3, specifically the two brackets that connect it to the battery box. One has a a U-shaped cut-out on one end. I cannot remember if there is a purpose for that cut-out. See: http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1319s.jpg It is on only one end of one of the brackets. I have a picture of the bracket next to the speedometer and it was not there (if it was installed correctly in the first place). Also, it is not for the trip reset knob (doesn't line up). Thanks. Carl From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed Sep 29 17:43:59 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 19:43:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Euro or other taller differential needed References: <12903364.1285704771705.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: The TVR's with TR 6 rear suspensions used the 3.45 gears. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jamie Palmer" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "triumphs" Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 4:12 PM Subject: [TR] Euro or other taller differential needed > RiffRAF Racing is in need of a TR6 differential with a taller rear end > ratio (i.e. numerically smaller) than the stock 3.7:1 US setup. One > possibility would be the 3.45:1 from a PI car. We're open to other > suggestions, but since our car is supposed to be worth no more than $500 > by the rules, some of the more common (for example, the GoodParts > conversions) are out of our reach. > > Anyone got a Euro diff around? > > The car is at max RPM way early on straights. For example, we were at the > rev limit for the entire front straight at Roebling Road, and were > actually driving the entire course in 4th gear. Even at Sebring last > weekend, when our engine was entirely off song, we could hit max RPM > really quickly. > > An overdrive would push the car past the race series value limit, and > while taller tires would help, they would also hurt the handling > considerably (we're currently using 205/50-15 Falken RT615K's on stock > wheels due to treadwear rules and wheel cost rules). > > All suggestions are appreciated...thanks. > > Jamie Palmer > RiffRAF Racing > 1975 TR6 ChumpCar From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 29 18:05:03 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 17:05:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Bracket Question In-Reply-To: <000001cb6023$28ec0770$7ac41650$@net> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> <000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net> <0L9D00CW4PGOAKGA@vms172077.mailsrvcs.net> <000001cb5de3$bc5138b0$34f3aa10$@net> <000001cb6023$28ec0770$7ac41650$@net> Message-ID: <0a3601cb6033$22c51110$684f3330$@rr.com> > Installing dash (facia) on the '3, specifically the two brackets that > connect it to the battery box. One has a a U-shaped cut-out on one > end. I > cannot remember if there is a purpose for that cut-out. It was, at least at one time, supposed to line up with the trip meter reset. I've posted a copy of the factory service note showing that, on Google Docs: http://tinyurl.com/27938r9 (But you will probably need a Google Docs account to access it.) -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Sep 29 19:54:10 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 21:54:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Bracket Question In-Reply-To: <0a3601cb6033$22c51110$684f3330$@rr.com> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net> <000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net> <0L9D00CW4PGOAKGA@vms172077.mailsrvcs.net> <000001cb5de3$bc5138b0$34f3aa10$@net> <000001cb6023$28ec0770$7ac41650$@net> <0a3601cb6033$22c51110$684f3330$@rr.com> Message-ID: <13220B09822A4656B268C4FFAAF387D5@CarlPC> Thank you Randall - as always you are a fountain of knowledge.... Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 8:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Dash Bracket Question >> Installing dash (facia) on the '3, specifically the two brackets that >> connect it to the battery box. One has a a U-shaped cut-out on one >> end. I >> cannot remember if there is a purpose for that cut-out. > > It was, at least at one time, supposed to line up with the trip meter > reset. > > I've posted a copy of the factory service note showing that, on Google > Docs: > http://tinyurl.com/27938r9 > (But you will probably need a Google Docs account to access it.) > > -- Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 29 20:12:06 2010 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 19:12:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Trying to ID N.O.S. Girling Shocks Message-ID: <101446.24942.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com> List members- Would anyone happen to have any Girling shock absorber part number references? I am trying to positively ID a pair of NOS Girling Decarbon shock absorbers. P/N 70094800A DK07 I can't find any reference online to what they fit....hoping you have an old catalog in their reference library. They look like TR4-6 fronts. Can you help determine their application? I acquired them from the estate of a long time Triumph collector, so I very confident they fit a Triumph of some sort. Thanks, Chad in Tulsa From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Sep 27 23:48:14 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 22:48:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wire Length References: <2145665450.1431854.1285587635383.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C854AE@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <36AF6A94754C411283D855016E70A139@trigeni.com> I thought the bumble bee wire was super cool... Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" To: Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 4:11 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Length >I bet you could eliminate much of that delay by super cooling the wire. > > Stan > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Michael Marr > Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 11:09 AM > To: terryrs at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Length > > The "electrical pulse" travels at 186,000 miles/second. At that speed, > your > spark would be delayed by 0.000000000008485 seconds (give or take a > zero...) > for every inch increase in length. I don't see a great concern here! > > Mike From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Sep 30 06:00:49 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 08:00:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Bracket Question In-Reply-To: <0a3601cb6033$22c51110$684f3330$@rr.com> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> <000e01cb5d02$3ab1f510$b015df30$@net><000001cb5dd4$5797d7d0$06c78770$@net><0L9D00CW4PGOAKGA@vms172077.mailsrvcs.net><000001cb5de3$bc5138b0$34f3aa10$@net><000001cb6023$28ec0770$7ac41650$@net> <0a3601cb6033$22c51110$684f3330$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD2EAE4212830E-1484-B8C6@webmail-m074.sysops.aol.com> I've posted a copy of the factory service note showing that, on Google Docs: http://tinyurl.com/27938r9 (But you will probably need a Google Docs account to access it.) Nope. Worked for me. Dave From peter at nosimport.com Thu Sep 30 08:09:55 2010 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 09:09:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trying to ID N.O.S. Girling Shocks In-Reply-To: <101446.24942.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <101446.24942.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201009300709279.SM05824@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Chad, The significant digits are 4800A. I can't find an application for that number in all of my Girling references. The Triumph fronts would be 4827 Peter C. ---------------------------------- At 09:12 PM 9/29/2010, Chad wrote: >List members- > >Would anyone happen to have any Girling shock absorber part >number references? >I am trying to positively ID a pair of NOS Girling >Decarbon shock absorbers. >P/N 70094800A DK07 I can't find any reference >online to what they >fit....hoping you have an old catalog in their reference >library. > >They look like TR4-6 fronts. Can you help determine their >application? I >acquired them from the estate of a long time Triumph >collector, so I very >confident they fit a Triumph of some sort. > >Thanks, > >Chad in Tulsa From rbtr3a at cox.net Thu Sep 30 08:56:47 2010 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 14:56:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] VTR 2010 Message-ID: <154538299-1285858645-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-192194210-@bda086.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Guys this is a reminder that today is the last day to sign up at the regular price $105. 00 for the NATC which will be held on beautiful jekyll island Ga. After today the price goes up twenty bucks. If you haven't visited the event website. Go to www. Vtr2010. Org. Be sure to watch the video. This years TSD ralley was designed by Mark Johnson. Mark is a multiple SCCA world champion rally champion. The SCCA Buccaneer Region will design and conduct the Auto cross on the jekyll island airport. The auto cross on jekyll has gained the reputation of being one of the very fastest and challenging vents offered. Group 44 owner and Driver Bob Tullius will be on hand along with his former tuner and crew chief Lanky Foushee. In addition Bob has agreed to allow us the privilege of displaying his TR6 a personal gift offered to him by the Triumph Corporation. This is the very LAST TR6 ever built. This car has never been removed from his collection since taking ownership. Amelia island Concours owner and Collector Mr. Bill Warner has graciously offered use of his Group 44 TR6. Bill will also serve as our emcee for the awards banquet. In addition we will also have the Group 44 GT6. This car was restored and owned by Mr. Tim Suddard owner of Classic Motorsports. Tim has offered to not only sponsor but to also Host the hospitality suite. VTR Editor and Former Triumph Public relations director, driver Racer Mr. Mike Cook will entertain us as the guest speaker during the awards banquet. In addition I have commissioned the World Famous Spinal Tappets to produce and record 9 new songs specifically for this event. This new album will be available to all registered participants. Just visiting the Jekyll Island Club and historical district is worth the trip itself. For those of you who have attended the SEVTR regionals which have also been held on Jekyll in the past, this event will be completely different from those previously held on Jekyll. The Jekyll Club hotel has sold out its room Block however we have added two additional beach side Island hotels to accommodate you housing needs. From these hotels you can gain a beautiful ocean view. Its not too late to join in one this event. So come be apart on the VTR 2010 National Convention hosted by the Clubs of the Southeastern Region. Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed From rbtr3a at cox.net Thu Sep 30 09:09:04 2010 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 15:09:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] VTR 2010 Message-ID: Guys this is a reminder that today is the last day to sign up at the regular price $105. 00 for the NATC which will be held on beautiful Jekyll Island Ga. After today the price goes up twenty bucks. If you haven't visited the event website. Go to www.Vtr2010.Org. Be sure to watch the video. This years TSD ralley was designed by Mark Johnson. Mark is a multiple SCCA world champion rally champion. The SCCA Buccaneer Region will design and conduct the Auto cross on the jekyll island airport. The auto cross on Jekyll has gained the reputation of being one of the very fastest and challenging autocross venues offered. Group 44 owner and Driver Bob Tullius will be on hand along with his former tuner and Crew Chief Lanky Foushee. In addition Bob has agreed to allow us the privilege of displaying his TR6, a personal gift offered to him by the Triumph Corporation. This is the very LAST TR6 ever built. This car has never been removed from his collection since taking ownership. Amelia Island Concours owner and Collector Mr. Bill Warner has graciously offered use of his Group 44 TR6. Bill will also serve as our emcee for the awards banquet. In addition we will also have the Group 44 GT6. This car was restored and owned by Mr. Tim Suddard owner of Classic Motorsports. Tim has offered to not only Sponsor but to also Host the hospitality suite. VTR Editor and Former Triumph Public relations director, driver/Racer Mr. Mike Cook will entertain us as the guest speaker during the awards banquet. In addition I have commissioned the World Famous Spinal Tappets to produce and record 9 new songs specifically for this event. This new album will be available to all registered participants. Just visiting the Jekyll Island Club and historical district is worth the trip itself. For those of you who have attended the SEVTR regionals which have also been held on Jekyll in the past, this event will be completely different from those previously held on Jekyll. Do not convince yourself that this will be the same ole same ole. The National event will look and feel completly different from the regional you may have attended. The Jekyll Club hotel has sold out its room Block however we have added two additional beach side Island hotels to accommodate you housing needs. From these hotels you can gain a beautiful ocean view. See the website for a listing of the additional hotels offered. Its not too late to join in on this event. So come be apart on the VTR 2010 National Convention hosted by the Clubs of the Southeastern Region. Ronnie Babbitt From rbtr3a at cox.net Thu Sep 30 09:53:38 2010 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 15:53:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] Part 2 vtr 2010. Message-ID: <1487881908-1285861983-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-987089567-@bda086.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I almost forgot to mention one of the most requested events takes place at the hospitality suite. Marty Brew swap. Be sure to bring and sample the personal formula's of other participants. Who will be the quickest to perform the LeMans start. Special recognition to the driver who wears the best period attire. The ISOA club has offered to conduct this fine event. For the non driving competition. Which club will reign supreme in the Croquet Challenge. Special recognition to the club who wears the appropriate croquet Period attire. Remember the Jekyll Club dates back to the turn of the century. Special thanks to our Sponsors. This events would not be possible with out their commitment TRF. Platinum- Sponsor Moss Motors- Gold sponsor Victoria British-Silver sponsor Classic Motorsports-Silver Sponsor Ratco- Bronze sponsor TSI- Bronze Sponsor Rimmer Brothers - Bronze sponsor Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed From wayne at motorcarriage.com Thu Sep 30 11:57:40 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:57:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire Length In-Reply-To: <36AF6A94754C411283D855016E70A139@trigeni.com> References: <2145665450.1431854.1285587635383.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C854AE@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> <36AF6A94754C411283D855016E70A139@trigeni.com> Message-ID: <70EE6A6992E54624A1991D090D405A78@Engineering> Super Cooling the wire,, good one. All of this discussion on wire length effecting timing would = a factor of zero in any equation concerning practical calculations. They don't have to be tuned like exhaust Headers, You're splitting hairs here. I sell both NOS Lucas Bumble Bee and repro Bumble Bee wire along with Packard 440 Wire. The only time it matters is when installing resistor wiring. That's the only time I go for resistor Spark Plugs. On my Rolls Royce 6.2 V8 I had one wire about twice as long as another. If I ran resistor wiring instead of resistor Spark Plugs, why wouldn't that lead get reduced to twice the resistance as the others, that's why I run NGK resistor Plugs with Packard 440 non resistor wiring with NOS AC Caps. At least in that application for non High Performance needs. Cheers, Wayne Lee wayne at lucasspares.com -------------------------------------------------- From: "Michael Marr" Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 1:48 AM To: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" ; Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Length > I thought the bumble bee wire was super cool... > > Mike > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" > To: > Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 4:11 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Length > > >>I bet you could eliminate much of that delay by super cooling the wire. >> >> Stan >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Michael Marr >> Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 11:09 AM >> To: terryrs at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Length >> >> The "electrical pulse" travels at 186,000 miles/second. At that speed, >> your >> spark would be delayed by 0.000000000008485 seconds (give or take a >> zero...) >> for every inch increase in length. I don't see a great concern here! >> >> Mike From tfansher at comcast.net Thu Sep 30 13:47:34 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 19:47:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] VTR Jekyll Island Message-ID: <861800957.184248.1285876053892.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I just did a weather check up for Jekyll Island. Average temp in October are 77F for the avg high and lows around 62F. The first 10 days of October look super and I'm really looking forward to seeing everyone there. I've got the beer made and ageing, the 3 has a new interior, and the Stag has new power steering hoses, rebuilt tranny and other goodies. So I'm just working and waiting for the time to pass. Jekyll Island is a great example of the laid-back South: bike paths, beautiful Live Oak trees with Spanish Moss, AWESOME fresh steamed shrimp, oysters and other fresh seafood, COLD beer, and southern hospitality. If anyone is still undecided, give the tripB serious consideration. I don't think you'll be disappointed. The Jekyll Island Club will give a totally different feel toB having itB at Jekyll.B Janet and I look forwardB to seeing all of you there. I talked to Fred Thomas yesterday and he's trying to make it down... Tom Fansher 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 73 Stag From coefront at shaw.ca Thu Sep 30 14:43:34 2010 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 14:43:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] Starting TR7 Message-ID: Starting TR7. Sounds like fuel starvation somewhere in the system. Mike From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 30 17:02:25 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:02:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Starting TR7 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <330675.9874.qm@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> have you tried squirting a little gas down the carb as you turn the motor. just a couple squirts from an old windex bottle works good. if you get some coughing and firing sounds. you have no fuel getting in. frank ________________________________ From: Mike Coe To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, September 30, 2010 1:43:34 PM Subject: [TR] Starting TR7 Starting TR7. Sounds like fuel starvation somewhere in the system. Mike _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From bjzwissler at gmail.com Thu Sep 30 17:52:08 2010 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 19:52:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 430 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CA522A8.3040305@gmail.com> Gary, I'd change the oil, put a squirt of oil or two in each cylinder and crank it over with the plugs out. If there's any gas in it it'll have to be drained and replaced with fresh. If you have a cooling system pressure tester I'd do that before I start it, but that's not mandatory it only prevents unpleasant surprises as the engine warms up. Otherwise check the coolant, carb dashpots for oil, and brake and clutch fluid if you're going to drive it. Then crank away and see what happens. Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 On 9/30/2010 11:52 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 14:36:30 -0400 > From:gdewine at aol.com > Subject: [TR] Starting a TR7 > To:triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID:<8CD2E1C5E6D8662-1E94-110A at webmail-m046.sysops.aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I have a 1980 TR7 That has not been started in many years. The motor turns > freely and plugs have spark. Any advice on getting it to start. > > Gary > 1980 TR7 From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Sep 30 18:16:10 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 20:16:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Bob's in car In-Reply-To: <20100930.150937.11201.1@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> References: <20100930.150937.11201.1@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Matt, since you are in GA bring the Spitfire to the VTR convention and do the autox on Jekyll Island. it will be at the airport there and it is a wonderful spot and top notch surface to run on. There will be a handful of spitfires to compete against. Hope you consider coming. Marty > Wow! NIce. > > And I thought we used to have some wide open courses down at Bronson west of > Pensacola. > > I have got to get the Spit back in action after a 7 year hiatus. > Now that I am living in Columbus, GA, I will probably end up running in > Atlanta at Turner Field. > Although I have heard the wiregrass folks have some fun not too far away. > > Matt From adcronin at ameritech.net Thu Sep 30 19:02:57 2010 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (Dan Cronin) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:02:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <94DC96C4-24FB-48EB-8FD9-828DB847F55F@ameritech.net> Have changed internet server and need to re-sub. to the list and do not have all the right info to get to the web master. Anyone out there who can send me the address? Thanks, Dan From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Sep 30 19:45:59 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:45:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Upcoming VTR Brew Swap Message-ID: I am trying to do some planning for the upcoming Brew Swap at the VTR convention. If you are planning on attending could you drop me a line at trmarty at hotmail.com and let me know if you are coming and if you are bringing one of your home brews or a micro brew? Also any questions you might have. Should be a lot of fun like the last one. Thanks, Marty From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Sep 30 20:20:56 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 22:20:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Think I found the cause Message-ID: <4CA50D48.20303.231A5FB@localhost> ...of the terrible tranny squealing. It's been a while. The tranny's been sitting on my garage floor partially dissasembled for a month. You may (but probably don't) remember that I thought it happened whenever the layshaft was turning. Someone also suggesed it could be the input bearing. The winner was...(drum roll, pun intended)...the roller bearing set between the input shaft and the mainshaft. Nothing else looked amiss but both the front end of the mainshaft and the hole in the rear of the input shaft looked discolored, a bit brown and covered with a dark brown gunk. The bearing itself can best be described as looking rusty, especially the cage, though none of the rollers appeared damaged to the naked eye. Perhaps they were worn. The brass synchro ring on the input shaft, which would be 4th, was stuck to its cone but came off with a bit of prying. (I asked it how it's bank account was doing and it came undone, so to speak.) Fortnunately the bearing races look good, no pitting or scoring either on the mainshaft or in the the input shaft. The layshaft bearings and thrust washers look fine. The layshaft shows no wear on the bearing surfaces. The main bearings look good. So the noise would seem to have been happening whenever the input and mainshafts were turning at different speeds, which means in neutral and in any gear except 4th. This would explain how I was able to drive 55 miles home from work in 4th but then have a problem develop as I was driving through town close to home. I might have seemed as do to the layshaft turning but I did not actually try every gear combination and never hit 4th once I heard the noise. Well, you see something new every day. With a bit of luck it should all be back together soon. All I need is a few 10-day weeks. Or some 36-hour days. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Sep 30 19:10:21 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 20:10:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wire Length References: <2145665450.1431854.1285587635383.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C854AE@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> <36AF6A94754C411283D855016E70A139@trigeni.com> <70EE6A6992E54624A1991D090D405A78@Engineering> Message-ID: <30B930A61BF342BDB6E312E436527ACE@trigeni.com> > All of this discussion on wire length effecting timing would = a factor > of zero in any equation concerning practical calculations. > They don't have to be tuned like exhaust Headers, You're splitting hairs > here. > That was my point, Wayne. Mike