From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Oct 1 00:25:17 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2010 01:25:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <94DC96C4-24FB-48EB-8FD9-828DB847F55F@ameritech.net> References: <94DC96C4-24FB-48EB-8FD9-828DB847F55F@ameritech.net> Message-ID: <20101001062440.41FFC187678@autox.team.net> You can subscribe yourself here: http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs Once you successfully subscribe at your new email address it would be helpful to Mark if you would unsubscribe your old address by following the "unsubscribe" link that's at the bottom of every e-mail you receive from this list. Make sure you pick a message that went to the OLD address, not to the NEW one. - Tony At 08:02 PM 9/30/2010, Dan Cronin wrote: >Have changed internet server and need to re-sub. to the list and do not have >all the right info to get to the web master. Anyone out there who can send me >the address? >Thanks, Dan > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From rbtr3a at cox.net Fri Oct 1 06:51:38 2010 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 12:51:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] Jekyll VTR Message-ID: <566556206-1285937461-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1133299267-@bda086.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Yesterday I had the opportunity to recognize the major sponsors for this years event. With out there support these events do not happen. However just as important are the minor sponsors who are willing to step up and offer their services either financially or through goods and service donations. Many of these minor sponsors are fellow enthusiasts who have a vested interest in our hobby. Men like Herman Van Den Akker , his HVDA conversion have provided a good alternative to the transmission of our 40 plus year old cars. Just last night Richard Goode called telling me he wanted to be a contributor to this event. How many of you have Goode Parts on your cars. These are men how desire to help prolong the life of our hobby. A few of the Other vendors coming are. LitzeZupp led lighting. Little British Car Company If I've forgotten anyone please forgive me for I'm writting this without my notes and from my BB. Yesterday I indicated that the buccaneer region SCCA is laying out and designing the autocross course. In fact this will be accomplished by the TCOC. They are the club in charge of this event and have done a wonderful job conducting the event. One last comment. I would like to personally thank Jack McGahey my partner and co-chairman, Jack has been an invaluable asset to this event and to me. Jack and Caroline have been to Jekyll several times meeting, test driving and anything else needed. Thank you Jack and Caroline for your efforts. Ronnie Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed From McGaheyRx at aol.com Fri Oct 1 09:06:20 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 11:06:20 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2010 Message-ID: <9f6a3.31633346.39d752ec@aol.com> In a message dated 9/30/2010 11:09:23 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rbtr3a at cox.net writes: The auto cross on Jekyll has gained the reputation of being one of the very fastest and challenging autocross venues offered I have some great news about the autocross: - course designers are often limited by the distance between placement of start and finish lights - no such limitation exists this year with The Buc Region SCCA equipment - we can place the start and finish up to 1,400 feet apart - this means we will use more of the runway and less of the narrower taxiway than we ever have before - this also means we can provide a larger spectator area with a better view of the course than we have ever had before. - I was just at the airport Monday this week and found that the taxiway, along with the entire area within the airport fence, has been repaved since our last visit. I believe the new asphalt surface is seasoned enough to stand up to all the punishment we can give it and I believe this site will have a smoother surface with better grip than any VTR autocross event I've attended in the past 10 years. - This course will be longer than any at VTR National event in the past 10 years and may be the longest ever at a VTR National. I don't want to brag about it being the fastest, because speeds must be limited to a safe level - but...ah...it is what it is and sometimes on a long, narrow site its just safer to let the cars go a little faster than it would be to force them into a violent maneuver to slow them down. I hope to see many of you there. Cheers, Jack McGahey VTR 2010 Autocross Chairman From McGaheyRx at aol.com Fri Oct 1 09:48:01 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 11:48:01 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR 2010 Message-ID: In a message dated 9/30/2010 11:09:23 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rbtr3a at cox.net writes: This years TSD ralley was designed by Mark Johnson. Mark is a multiple SCCA world champion rally champion. Mark can't make it to our event, so my wife Caroline and I will be serving as Ralley Masters at the event. As a winning navigator, Caroline is the real TSD ralley expert at our house. I can't tell you what she said when she first saw the route instructions, because it would give too much away, but I will tell you she said it with a really big grin. Mark has given us a really great Rally to work with - I really wish I could compete in this one! We test-drove it last weekend - it is every bit as challenging to attain perfect time as you would expect from a Rally Champion but will be dead-nuts simple for any novice to follow and a great introduction to TSD Rallying if you've never done it before - in fact, these rally instructions warn you about some things that I frankly would not have warned you about. The schedule on our event web site is wrong. The TSD Rally will be Tuesday afternoon, not Tuesday morning. I can tell you that your driving time will be more than 1 hour but less than 2 hours - so it does not conflict with any other driving event and it won't take up your whole afternoon - and there will be ample opportunities for fuel or restroom breaks - if you calculate your time allowance correctly ;-) If you enjoy TSD Rally competition you don't want to miss this one - and if you haven't done it before, this is a great one to start with. Cheers, Jack Mc From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Oct 1 12:18:22 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 11:18:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Rack & Pinion Upgrade Tie Rods Message-ID: <452054.90910.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I put in a R&P upgrade in my TR3A (love it!)awhile back and am thinking about replacing the tie rods ends. I thought that they were TR6, but the bottom threaded fitting is too large a diameter. I bought the kit from BAR (British Auto Restorations) on the east coast, but can no longer find them. Does anyone know where the tie rods come from or what they fit? I suspect a Mini Cooper, but might be wrong. TIA Bill in Tehachapi From adcronin at mi.rr.com Fri Oct 1 12:54:53 2010 From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 14:54:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rack & Pinion Upgrade Tie Rods In-Reply-To: <452054.90910.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <452054.90910.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <65235487-F159-4050-80EB-F67B95778B72@mi.rr.com> I have the R&P from Revington and the tie rod ends for that kit were Mini Cooper, see if you can get the set with deeper female threads for more potential adjustment. The part no. is: GSJ158 for the rod end, the Gaiter is 7H3762 and the supplied nut (with rod end) is: GHF223. This from Mini Mania, tel 1 800 946 2642 for what it's worth. Dan Cronin On Oct 1, 2010, at 2:18 PM, William Brewer wrote: > I put in a R&P upgrade in my TR3A (love it!)awhile back and am thinking about replacing the tie rods ends. I thought that they were TR6, but the bottom threaded fitting is too large a diameter. From deruiterville at hotmail.com Fri Oct 1 14:36:16 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 15:36:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rack & Pinion Upgrade Tie Rods In-Reply-To: <452054.90910.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <452054.90910.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: And the Moss kit uses Mini tie rod ends as well. Randy DeRuiter 64 TR4, 59 TR3A From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com Fri Oct 1 14:41:42 2010 From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 16:41:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trailer size 5x9? Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425272AF73C16@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> I'm looking to pickup a 64 TR4. Would a 5x9 trailer (with ramp) from uhaul fit the bill? They are out of a the 6x12. Thank you Peter From wbeech at flash.net Fri Oct 1 14:50:06 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 14:50:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Trailer size 5x9? In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425272AF73C16@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425272AF73C16@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> Message-ID: <289FDDB55E37434EBB7EF95705F77B53@bboffice> The spec page of the Moss catalog list the TR4 length as 13'-0" and the width as 5'-9". Recommend that you keep looking for a slightly larger trailer, if you are wanting something enclosed, that 6x12 isn't going to work either. Where are you? There might be someone on the list that could help you out. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dachnowicz, Peter Sent: Friday, October 01, 2010 2:42 PM To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net' Subject: [TR] Trailer size 5x9? I'm looking to pickup a 64 TR4. Would a 5x9 trailer (with ramp) from uhaul fit the bill? They are out of a the 6x12. Thank you Peter _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Oct 1 14:55:49 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 16:55:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trailer size 5x9? In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425272AF73C16@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425272AF73C16@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> Message-ID: Sorry, not going to work. Assuming it is a fully assembled car. I just measured my TR4. The car is at least 58 inches wide --- and close to 13.5 feet long. I just measrured my TR4 and it looks like you need at least 12 feet just to get the back wheel on the trailer. 6x12 is minimum - and the car would be hanging off the back a foot and a half. If you're going any distance -- I'd want a dual axle trailer, too. Do they have a trailer larger than the 6x12? Chris From mdporter at dfn.com Fri Oct 1 15:05:41 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2010 15:05:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Trailer size 5x9? In-Reply-To: <289FDDB55E37434EBB7EF95705F77B53@bboffice> References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425272AF73C16@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> <289FDDB55E37434EBB7EF95705F77B53@bboffice> Message-ID: <4CA64D25.3050801@dfn.com> On 10/1/2010 2:50 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > The spec page of the Moss catalog list the TR4 length as 13'-0" and the > width as 5'-9". Recommend that you keep looking for a slightly larger > trailer, if you are wanting something enclosed, that 6x12 isn't going to > work either. > Probably some typos in there--the width of the TR4 is actually 4' 10.25". The actual length is 12' 11', so Moss is pretty close there. What is probably more of concern with a small trailer is how the car balances on the trailer, and if it can be fitted on the trailer without the overhangs becoming a problem, so the problem is not so much one of overall length, but wheelbase. The TR4 wheelbase is 7' 4-1/4", so it should easily be accommodated by a 9-foot trailer. The larger question is balance and where the overhang can best be managed. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Oct 1 16:55:26 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 15:55:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Trailer size 5x9? In-Reply-To: <4CA64D25.3050801@dfn.com> References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425272AF73C16@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> <289FDDB55E37434EBB7EF95705F77B53@bboffice> <4CA64D25.3050801@dfn.com> Message-ID: <334217.41014.qm@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> my experience with Uhaul trailer is this: the Moss book says the TR4 and TR3 have the same tracking of the wheels. if you tell them your hauling a TR3-4 they wont let you rent it. they know the car barely fits. you have to tell then its a TR6 or (god forbid) its an MG! when i loaded my TR3 on the trailer the wheels just barely caught the inside edges of the ramps up. once on the trailer you will see there is a long hole down the center of the trailer with a triangular bent rail thing, that is intended to stop you driving into the hole in the middle. the TR3 inside to inside of wheel is about 2 inches less than that of the distance out to out of the rail. so the tire sits up on the rail rather than on the bed. one way to get over this is to put a 2 x 6 pine plank on the bed. id didn't and i made the journey from Indiana to California with no problems. good luck Frank ________________________________ From: Michael Porter To: wbeech at flash.net Cc: "Dachnowicz, Peter" ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, October 1, 2010 2:05:41 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Trailer size 5x9? On 10/1/2010 2:50 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > The spec page of the Moss catalog list the TR4 length as 13'-0" and the > width as 5'-9". Recommend that you keep looking for a slightly larger > trailer, if you are wanting something enclosed, that 6x12 isn't going to > work either. > Probably some typos in there--the width of the TR4 is actually 4' 10.25". The actual length is 12' 11', so Moss is pretty close there. What is probably more of concern with a small trailer is how the car balances on the trailer, and if it can be fitted on the trailer without the overhangs becoming a problem, so the problem is not so much one of overall length, but wheelbase. The TR4 wheelbase is 7' 4-1/4", so it should easily be accommodated by a 9-foot trailer. The larger question is balance and where the overhang can best be managed. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Sat Oct 2 07:48:48 2010 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 09:48:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interesting looking movie Message-ID: http://www.driven-movie.com/ From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Oct 2 10:07:38 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 12:07:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder Message-ID: VTR 2010 BREW SWAP 2 A second gathering of suds lovers will take place at this years national convention at Jekyll Island. It will be an informal gathering of friends to share your favorite home brew or that special microbrew that you like so well. The Brew Swap will take place on Monday October 18th in the Hospitality Suite at the host hotel. It will be a prelude to the welcome reception, from 4:30 to 6:30 ish. We will provide the room, tables and some glasses. Bring a six pack of your favorite cold special beverage and possibly some snacks that would go good with beer. Game plan is to mingle and sample others favorite beers. This will give us an opportunity to sample some home brews made by fellow Triumph enthusiast and possibly some micro brews from different parts of the country that you normally would not get to try. We did a brew swap 1 at the 2008 convention and all had a blast. This years brew swap will include a home brew competition so all you hops cookers out there get you best recipe fermenting and see how you do against your fellow brewers. Cheers, Marty Sukey From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Oct 2 12:29:41 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2010 13:29:41 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph shop repair blues Message-ID: <314951088.356189.1286044181472.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> To the list, 1972 Triumph TR6 in the shop last week. Carb jets were removed and replaced. Drove home last Thursday in the rain, running great. Checked the oil and dashpots, the front one was low. Ok, the guy did not top it off, no problem. Topped off front dashpot, washed car, and moved back into garage. Today, I come out to an empty front carb dashpot. Pulled a plug, did not look that bad. No dashpot oil under car, so my assumption is that the carb pot oil is draining back into the engine. Is this correct? Can it be driven back to shop or should it be towed? I don;t want to even go into my mood at this point, any insight is appreciated. Craig Vienna, VA From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 2 13:09:48 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 12:09:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph shop repair blues In-Reply-To: <314951088.356189.1286044181472.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> References: <314951088.356189.1286044181472.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <22d901cb6265$6232b3a0$0301a8c0@randall> > No dashpot oil under car, so my > assumption is that the carb pot oil is draining back into the engine. Yes, that is usually what happens. Should be no problem, fill it again, drive to shop. That small amount of oil won't hurt the engine (tho it's possible you might notice a little blue smoke). Or replace that pesky O-ring yourself, it's not hard at all once you know how. But you will probably need to reset the mixture again, afterwards. Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Oct 2 13:15:42 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2010 14:15:42 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph shop repair blues Message-ID: <1665654909.356792.1286046942885.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Thanks Randall, I figured everyone was out today enjoying the fall weather. I will let the shop handle it, it is their issue. The problem for me is it is pain to get there and pickup. Thanks again...........Craig Oct 2, 2010 03:10:13 PM, TR3driver at ca.rr.com wrote: > No dashpot oil under car, so my > assumption is that the carb pot oil is draining back into the engine. Yes, that is usually what happens. Should be no problem, fill it again, drive to shop. That small amount of oil won't hurt the engine (tho it's possible you might notice a little blue smoke). Or replace that pesky O-ring yourself, it's not hard at all once you know how. But you will probably need to reset the mixture again, afterwards. Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Oct 2 14:23:07 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 13:23:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Proper gearcase oil In-Reply-To: <6940969057bf0.4ca758e9@wright.edu> References: <477043.15162.qm@web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <6940969057bf0.4ca758e9@wright.edu> Message-ID: Good Information for 1970 ... but ... Welcome to the 21st Century ... http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/Man%20Trans%20Lubes%20PDS%208-10.pdf I am not being critical of anyone, but this stuff works ... There is a section (at the home page) for engine oil, and differential oil ... all of which I have used for many years. oh yeah ... I have no Redline Stock ... 8-) >All >Have more info that supports our use of 80/90 wt oil in the >transmission/OD units. Have a factory repair and operations manual. >Published by, " Triumph Motor Company Ltd, Coventry England" part # >545277, published 1972. > >With respect to transmission and OD lubrication it says... >Gearbox and overdrive over 30 deg F - BP Gear oil SAE 90 EP > below 30 " " - BP Gear oil SAE 80 EP >Both are API GL4 > >As I remember there is a communication port (hole) between the trans >and OD units (at least on the 'A' type units). Different weight oils >in the respective units will mix with time and become whatever they >mix to. Transmissions are the same from TR2 through TR3A's. 3B >through 4's had 1st gear synchronized and possibly caged needle >bearing rather than free floating ones in the counter shaft, lot of >broom handles were saved there by not needing them for bearing >support on reassembly, and different shift lever on the TR4's. >Strongly suspect TR6 trans is the same as Late TR4 boxes but have >never had one apart (mine hasn't broken yet). > >This is sort of a FWIW thing. People can use whatever they are >comfortable with. I'm with Bruce using 80/90 wt. Times and >lubricants have changed, may be a 'hotter set up' out there, but >this is what the book of the time said. >Bill >'70 6 -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Oct 2 17:25:56 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 23:25:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] My dad can beat up your dad In-Reply-To: <557333244.1761656.1286061475403.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1099813420.1761836.1286061956708.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I'm a competitive guy. Get put down, jump up and try again. ...So. When I read the definition of the word MORON in the index of a Triumph repair manual, I thoughts to m'self, "I can one-up that!" Never mind which manual. I was stranded a few days ago in the Hannaford grocery parking lot. Took off the distributor, noticed right off that the brush on the distributor cap was down to zero. Couldn't believe it was still running. So I swapped out the distributor cap but I didn't want to do it right. Instead, paying very careful attention not to cross the wires, I somehow managed to do it anyway. Got the same exact symptons of no fire, no start as the original problem. Must be something else than the brush. Checked and rechecked the timing. Swapped to points. Thank you Ed and Lee, I needed both because I'd also managed to bugger up the screw holes in my original plates, so thanks to you now have one good one for running and one for the spare, ...and one (the old one) for the local garbage man. Nothing. Rechecked the spark at the wire, then the plug. Good. Fuel...good to the carburator. Pulled the floats. Blew through clear. Good. Rechecked the timing again. Finally noticed that at TDC, the rotor pointed to the #1 tube like it's supposed to, but the next junction went to #2, not #3. Swapped the wires and started right up. That is one sweet sweet sound. Next time I'm in Philadelphia, I'm going to run up the steps to the Rocky Memorial again, pump my fists in the air, because I am #1!!! Well, that is unless I got my wires crossed again! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Oct 2 18:50:15 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 17:50:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] My dad can beat up your dad In-Reply-To: <1099813420.1761836.1286061956708.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1099813420.1761836.1286061956708.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <682320.93428.qm@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> yes felt the same way last time i did that with my shoe lace. Frank To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, October 2, 2010 4:25:56 PM Subject: [TR] My dad can beat up your dad I'm a competitive guy. Get put down, jump up and try again. ...So. When I read the definition of the word MORON in the index of a Triumph repair manual, I thoughts to m'self, "I can one-up that!" Never mind which manual. I was stranded a few days ago in the Hannaford grocery parking lot. Took off the distributor, noticed right off that the brush on the distributor cap was down to zero. Couldn't believe it was still running. So I swapped out the distributor cap but I didn't want to do it right. Instead, paying very careful attention not to cross the wires, I somehow managed to do it anyway. Got the same exact symptons of no fire, no start as the original problem. Must be something else than the brush. Checked and rechecked the timing. Swapped to points. Thank you Ed and Lee, I needed both because I'd also managed to bugger up the screw holes in my original plates, so thanks to you now have one good one for running and one for the spare, ...and one (the old one) for the local garbage man. Nothing. Rechecked the spark at the wire, then the plug. Good. Fuel...good to the carburator. Pulled the floats. Blew through clear. Good. Rechecked the timing again. Finally noticed that at TDC, the rotor pointed to the #1 tube like it's supposed to, but the next junction went to #2, not #3. Swapped the wires and started right up. That is one sweet sweet sound. Next time I'm in Philadelphia, I'm going to run up the steps to the Rocky Memorial again, pump my fists in the air, because I am #1!!! Well, that is unless I got my wires crossed again! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From dave1massey at cs.com Sun Oct 3 07:43:46 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2010 09:43:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD311823025A17-198-1CE36@webmail-d061.sysops.aol.com> Hospitality Suite at the host hotel. It will be a prelude to the welcome reception, from 4:30 to 6:30 ish. We My only problem with this time slot is that it ends four hours before bed time so I either sober up and get grumpy or I have to keep drinking and I'm way too old for the second option. Dave From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Oct 3 07:55:42 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 09:55:42 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder Message-ID: <135d7f.3381f1e0.39d9e55e@aol.com> In a message dated 10/3/2010 9:44:24 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, dave1massey at cs.com writes: My only problem with this time slot is that it ends four hours before bed time so I either sober up and get grumpy just play your pipes for a while - you'll get over it From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Oct 3 08:21:48 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 10:21:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder In-Reply-To: <8CD311823025A17-198-1CE36@webmail-d061.sysops.aol.com> References: , <8CD311823025A17-198-1CE36@webmail-d061.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: We can start earlier if you like. I'll be there Sunday:) Marty > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 09:43:46 -0400 > From: dave1massey at cs.com > Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder > > Hospitality Suite at the host hotel. It will be a prelude to the welcome > reception, from 4:30 to 6:30 ish. We > > > > > > > > My only problem with this time slot is that it ends four hours before bed > time so I either sober up and get grumpy or I have to keep drinking and I'm > way too old for the second option. > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trmarty at hotmail.com From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Oct 3 08:38:35 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 10:38:35 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder Message-ID: <1375ae.cc9cfa6.39d9ef6b@aol.com> In a message dated 10/3/2010 10:21:54 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: We can start earlier if you like. I'll be there Sunday:) Sea Jay's on Sunday night: low country boil, key lime pie, no lines, no waiting From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Oct 3 09:07:28 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 11:07:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder In-Reply-To: <1375ae.cc9cfa6.39d9ef6b@aol.com> References: <1375ae.cc9cfa6.39d9ef6b@aol.com> Message-ID: Now THAT sounds like a plan! Marty From: McGaheyRx at aol.com Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 10:38:35 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder To: trmarty at hotmail.com; dave1massey at cs.com; triumphs at autox.team.net In a message dated 10/3/2010 10:21:54 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: We can start earlier if you like. I'll be there Sunday:) Sea Jay's on Sunday night: low country boil, key lime pie, no lines, no waiting From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Oct 3 10:17:11 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 12:17:11 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder Message-ID: <6f85b.1526d89d.39da0687@aol.com> Cool if anybody wants to join us Sunday night, Oct 17 - this is where we'll be: _http://www.seajays.com/_ (http://www.seajays.com/) In a message dated 10/3/2010 11:08:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: Now THAT sounds like a plan! Marty ____________________________________ From: McGaheyRx at aol.com Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 10:38:35 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder To: trmarty at hotmail.com; dave1massey at cs.com; triumphs at autox.team.net In a message dated 10/3/2010 10:21:54 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: We can start earlier if you like. I'll be there Sunday:) Sea Jay's on Sunday night: low country boil, key lime pie, no lines, no waiting = From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Oct 3 11:22:54 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 13:22:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder References: <6f85b.1526d89d.39da0687@aol.com> Message-ID: <0509C5991B45493CA669AA460BFB0512@DCS78M81> Fansher' will be there. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Oct 3 12:46:47 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 11:46:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] push rods Message-ID: <582446.37821.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Just wondering what others would do. Rebuilding a tr-3 engine which has the smaller push rods. I have a tr-4 engine disassembled with the larger diameter push rods. I'd like to upgrade to the larger ones and what would be wrong with using the tr-4 ones from the other engine? My thinking is that if i were re-building the tr-4 engine instead of the tr-3 engine, I'd re-use those push rods. just wondering gary n. From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Oct 3 12:57:01 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 18:57:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 contact points set screw In-Reply-To: <0509C5991B45493CA669AA460BFB0512@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <222160733.1783171.1286132221810.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Anybody know offhand what the proper size is for the set screws to fasten points onto the plate? I've been the hardware store with a good plate, and no screw seems to fit right. I've tried both standards (one size--10/32?--comes close)and metric. Am NOT going to bugger up another plate with the wrong screw! Terry Smith '59 TR3A From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Oct 3 13:16:58 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2010 15:16:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - help identifying a bracket In-Reply-To: <222160733.1783171.1286132221810.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <0509C5991B45493CA669AA460BFB0512@DCS78M81> <222160733.1783171.1286132221810.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <003101cb632f$8da7fac0$a8f7f040$@net> Image at: http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/TR3unknownbracket.jpg This bracket was in with the support brackets, etc for the steering column on my TR3. Anyone have an inkling of where it belongs.... Thanks Carl From jdabars at att.net Sun Oct 3 13:19:09 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 12:19:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Sea Jay's shrimp out-----similar to pig out Message-ID: <650416.19406.qm@web83716.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I be there EARLY sunday mid pm. Can't wait----salavatin in anticipation of GREAT sea food. Tired of midwest steak and potatos(Indiana style) HOOSIER BOY 1962 Triumph Van. Yes, a Triumph Van(Rarer than hens teeth.) From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 3 13:49:48 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 12:49:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] push rods In-Reply-To: <582446.37821.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <582446.37821.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <246601cb6334$230069f0$0301a8c0@randall> > I'd like to upgrade to the larger ones and what > would be wrong with > using the tr-4 ones from the other engine? Not a thing, assuming they are stock length and in good condition. Of course you'll need to reset the valve lash afterwards, but you would do that anyway. Randall From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Sun Oct 3 13:54:57 2010 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 15:54:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph shop repair blues - ZS O ring Message-ID: <003601cb6334$db741c20$925c5460$@net> BTW, for folks who would like to do this themselves, Moss Motors has a good tutorial: http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/365-420_365-395.pdf Cheers! From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 3 14:20:34 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 13:20:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 contact points set screw In-Reply-To: <222160733.1783171.1286132221810.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <0509C5991B45493CA669AA460BFB0512@DCS78M81> <222160733.1783171.1286132221810.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <247901cb6338$6f7fb570$0301a8c0@randall> > Anybody know offhand what the proper size is for the set > screws to fasten points onto the plate? I don't know it offhand, but it is almost certainly some obsolete British thread, not found at hardware stores. Randall From dmericas at austin.rr.com Sun Oct 3 14:44:51 2010 From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (Dean Mericas) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 15:44:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel starvation in my TR4 - Report back - problem solved In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Original message: > > I finally solved the problem. After checking the fuel lines, putting in a fresh fuel filter, swapping out the Pertronix unit with new points & condenser, and checking the timing, I tore down the carbs. The bowls were absolutely clean. However, two things appeared out of spec: one of the needles was poorly centered and one of the floats was set a bit low. I fixed both issues, replaced the O-rings, and set the balance and mixture. The car now runs fine and pulls strongly with no apparent starvation on the long hill at WOT. The only thing that really makes sense is the float setting being too low. It's not clear to me how this would happen over time - the floats had no indication of any leakage. Thanks for all of the suggestions. I guess this is the 1% of the time that a fuel problem was actually the caused by the fuel system ; ^ ) Dean Mericas Austin, TX 1965 TR4 / 1974 2000 GTV / 1976 Giulia Nuova Super From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Oct 3 14:49:38 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 16:49:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - help identifying a bracket In-Reply-To: <003101cb632f$8da7fac0$a8f7f040$@net> References: <0509C5991B45493CA669AA460BFB0512@DCS78M81> <222160733.1783171.1286132221810.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <003101cb632f$8da7fac0$a8f7f040$@net> Message-ID: <201010031649.39432.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday, October 03, 2010 03:16:58 pm Carl TR wrote: > http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/TR3unknownbracket.jpg Carl, That looks like the door window stop bracket you would find on a 4 4A, 250 or 6 door. It usually has felt on the inside attached with rivets. Bob From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Oct 3 15:27:03 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 17:27:03 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder Message-ID: <877c.5ebd240c.39da4f27@cs.com> In a message dated 10/3/2010 8:55:43 AM Central Daylight Time, McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: > In a message dated 10/3/2010 9:44:24 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > dave1massey at cs.com writes: > > >> My only problem with this time slot is that it ends four hours before >> bed >> time so I either sober up and get grumpy > > just play your pipes for a while - you'll get over it > What? And make everyone else grumpy?!!! ;-) Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Oct 3 15:41:57 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 17:41:57 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder Message-ID: <90c7.5bf73e72.39da52a5@cs.com> In a message dated 10/3/2010 9:21:50 AM Central Daylight Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: > We can start earlier if you like. I'll be there Sunday:) > My name is Dave and I am a Triumph owner. (There, I said it) Dave From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 3 18:27:36 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 17:27:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 - help identifying a bracket In-Reply-To: <003101cb632f$8da7fac0$a8f7f040$@net> References: <0509C5991B45493CA669AA460BFB0512@DCS78M81> <222160733.1783171.1286132221810.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <003101cb632f$8da7fac0$a8f7f040$@net> Message-ID: <46785.31984.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> no idea Carl but it sure looks nice. put it where i can be seen Frank ________________________________ From: Carl TR To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, October 3, 2010 12:16:58 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 - help identifying a bracket Image at: http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/TR3unknownbracket.jpg This bracket was in with the support brackets, etc for the steering column on my TR3. Anyone have an inkling of where it belongs.... Thanks Carl _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Oct 4 07:26:27 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 09:26:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Engine Number Message-ID: Can anyone clear up an engine number question for us over in 6-Pack. One of the guys with a '73 has an engine number stamped CD120UE yet according to Moss & TRF there are no 250's or 6's with an engine number beginning with CD. You can see a picture of the stamping at this URL http://tinyurl.com/36c9kjc Were warranty replacement engines stamped this way? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Mon Oct 4 07:31:52 2010 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 09:31:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Trailer Space to Jekyll Island? Message-ID: <2616e.612287da.39db3148@aol.com> Greetings All, Might anyone from the Northeast (I'm in Rochester, NY) be taking a trailer to Jekyll Island? I have four tires which I'd like to take along and no way to get them there except in the car, a TR4A. Thanks, George Haynes From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Oct 4 10:45:20 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2010 09:45:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Engine Number References: Message-ID: <000401cb63e3$89446cc0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> So from that reference listing what does CC....E mean under engine column? Could be C thru E were used? Bob P. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; "6 pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 6:26 AM Subject: [6pack] TR6 Engine Number > Can anyone clear up an engine number question for us over in 6-Pack. One of > the guys with a '73 has an engine number stamped CD120UE yet according to > Moss & TRF there are no 250's or 6's with an engine number beginning with > CD. You can see a picture of the stamping at this URL > http://tinyurl.com/36c9kjc > > Were warranty replacement engines stamped this way? Any help would be > appreciated. > > Thanks > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Oct 4 09:28:05 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 11:28:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] VTR Brew Swap Reminder Message-ID: <19807.79f6e13d.39db4c84@aol.com> In a message dated 10/3/2010 12:17:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: Cool if anybody wants to join us Sunday night, Oct 17 - this is where we'll be: Hey Jack, Count Beverly and I in on that. I will have the :-) Steamed Crab Legs - The Sweetest Crabmeat You Ever Tasted Served with Melted Butter. .5 Cheers, Darrell Hoping they serve up some good Crown Manhattans too! From jdabars at att.net Mon Oct 4 10:36:05 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 09:36:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Seafood pig out @ Sea Jay's sunday pm, oct.17 Message-ID: <631156.53026.qm@web83709.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Darrell, you gonna have to tell what to order. "Over the lips, through the gums Rot gut, here it comes." I'm gettin' excited. HOOSIER BOY, Indianapolis, IN "Racing Capital of the World." From tbeatson at shaw.ca Tue Oct 5 09:50:01 2010 From: tbeatson at shaw.ca (Trevor) Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 09:50:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Contact points set screw Message-ID: <8A42C9E1D93A4815BF53690B3481B7BD@MDG> "Anybody know offhand what the proper size is for the set screws to fasten points onto the plate?" Terry, the screw that holds the points to the base is 2BA. And the one which holds the base to the dizzy body is 4BA. Trevor From lherault at bu.edu Tue Oct 5 14:05:16 2010 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 16:05:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] This is a bit OT Message-ID: <00f401cb64c8$a15ca030$47d6299b@ad.bu.edu> I couldn't resist and had to share this: Paddy is passing by Mick's hay shed one day when through a gap in the door he sees Mick doing a slow and sensual striptease in front of his old red Massey Ferguson. Buttocks clenched, he performs a slow pirouette and gently slides off first to the right, then to the left. He then hunches his shoulders forward and in a classic striptease move, lets his braces fall down from his shoulders to dangle by his hips over his corduroy trousers . Grabbing both sides of his checked shirt, he rips it apart to reveal his tea stained vest underneath and with a final flourish he hurls his cap on to a pile of hay. "What on earth are you doing, Mick?" says Paddy. "Jeez Paddy, ye frightened the livin bejasus out of me!" says an obviously embarrassed Mick. "But me and the Missus been having some trouble lately in the bedroom department and the therapist suggested I do something sexy to a tractor! " From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 5 17:11:49 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 16:11:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] This is a bit OT In-Reply-To: <00f401cb64c8$a15ca030$47d6299b@ad.bu.edu> References: <00f401cb64c8$a15ca030$47d6299b@ad.bu.edu> Message-ID: <522847.15864.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> was the tractor by chance a messy ferguson? ________________________________ From: Ron L'Herault To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, October 5, 2010 1:05:16 PM Subject: [TR] This is a bit OT I couldn't resist and had to share this: Paddy is passing by Mick's hay shed one day when through a gap in the door he sees Mick doing a slow and sensual striptease in front of his old red Massey Ferguson. Buttocks clenched, he performs a slow pirouette and gently slides off first to the right, then to the left. He then hunches his shoulders forward and in a classic striptease move, lets his braces fall down from his shoulders to dangle by his hips over his corduroy trousers . Grabbing both sides of his checked shirt, he rips it apart to reveal his tea stained vest underneath and with a final flourish he hurls his cap on to a pile of hay. "What on earth are you doing, Mick?" says Paddy. "Jeez Paddy, ye frightened the livin bejasus out of me!" says an obviously embarrassed Mick. "But me and the Missus been having some trouble lately in the bedroom department and the therapist suggested I do something sexy to a tractor! " _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Oct 5 18:03:18 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2010 00:03:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] This is a bit OT Message-ID: <201010060003.o9603KR5004660@imr-mb01.mx.aol.com> it was probably a John Dear ---------- Sent from my Verizon Wireless mobile phone ------Original Message------ From: Frank Fisher To: "Ron L'Herault" Cc: Date: Tue, Oct 5, 4:11 PM -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] This is a bit OT was the tractor by chance a messy ferguson? ________________________________ From: Ron L'Herault To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, October 5, 2010 1:05:16 PM Subject: [TR] This is a bit OT I couldn't resist and had to share this: Paddy is passing by Mick's hay shed one day when through a gap in the door he sees Mick doing a slow and sensual striptease in front of his old red Massey Ferguson. Buttocks clenched, he performs a slow pirouette and gently slides off first to the right, then to the left. He then hunches his shoulders forward and in a classic striptease move, lets his braces fall down from his shoulders to dangle by his hips over his corduroy trousers . Grabbing both sides of his checked shirt, he rips it apart to reveal his tea stained vest underneath and with a final flourish he hurls his cap on to a pile of hay. "What on earth are you doing, Mick?" says Paddy. "Jeez Paddy, ye frightened the livin bejasus out of me!" says an obviously embarrassed Mick. "But me and the Missus been having some trouble lately in the bedroom department and the therapist suggested I do something sexy to a tractor! " _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From tr3 at roadrunner.com Tue Oct 5 18:16:08 2010 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante) Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 17:16:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 - help identifying a bracket In-Reply-To: <003101cb632f$8da7fac0$a8f7f040$@net> References: <0509C5991B45493CA669AA460BFB0512@DCS78M81> <222160733.1783171.1286132221810.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <003101cb632f$8da7fac0$a8f7f040$@net> Message-ID: <9DF1611F-CFCE-47E9-AF84-971FDB98E4AC@roadrunner.com> Carl, I looked under the dash and hood (bonnet) around the steering column of my '62 TR3A -- couldn't see anything that even remotely resembles it. Randall probably could identify it if it had anything to do with a Triumph. Hans On Oct 3, 2010, at 12:16 PM, Carl TR wrote: > Image at: > http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/ > TR3unknownbracket.jpg > > This bracket was in with the support brackets, etc for the steering > column > on my TR3. > > Anyone have an inkling of where it belongs.... > > Thanks > Carl > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com From jdabars at att.net Tue Oct 5 19:45:02 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 18:45:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA Message-ID: <707253.57675.qm@web83712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Subject: Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA My ATLAS/TRIUMPH as found in Canada >Needs MUCH help to get it mooving >DESPERATELY LOOKING TO PURCHASE WINDSCREEN [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN1.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN2.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN3.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN4.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN5.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN6.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN7.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN8.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN9.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN10.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN11.jpg] From don at napanet.net Tue Oct 5 21:49:09 2010 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2010 20:49:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] car hauling from OH to CA Message-ID: <20101006034922.A6928AE686@mail.dsl.napanet.net> I just received this email from my friend Dan Grinnell. He used to have a British car repair shop in Santa Rosa CA, now lives back in Ohio and hauls cars. He has hauled several cars for me over the years, a TR8 from PA, a '62 Skylark convertible from CT, and others from various places. I recommend him highly. Headed to Calif mid October with 34 ft open flatbed trailer with ramps and winch. Starting from Akron, Cleveland, Ohio area and headed to Sacramento, Bay Area, Sonoma County. Or even up to Redding or Chico or thereabouts. I am open to going off route, depending on how far and if it makes sense. Can carry up to about 12000 pounds, running or not. Older cars, tractors, pickup trucks, or just plain stuff. I carry tarps and plenty of straps. Cell is 1-330-231-9608. Or email me as I live in a low-reception area. I have done this trip many, many times with all sorts or items. Thanks, Dan Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars From mark at bradakis.com Tue Oct 5 22:07:41 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:07:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] This is a bit OT In-Reply-To: <522847.15864.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <00f401cb64c8$a15ca030$47d6299b@ad.bu.edu> <522847.15864.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4CABF60D.60500@bradakis.com> Frank Fisher wrote: > was the tractor by chance a messy ferguson? > > No doubt it had the small bore, short stroke engine in it. mjb. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Wed Oct 6 06:21:47 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 08:21:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] This is a bit OT In-Reply-To: <522847.15864.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <00f401cb64c8$a15ca030$47d6299b@ad.bu.edu> <522847.15864.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001801cb6551$0bdc3b90$2394b2b0$@net> Hmmm....I'm a little lost what is a classic striptease move Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 7:12 PM To: Ron L'Herault Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] This is a bit OT was the tractor by chance a messy ferguson? ________________________________ From: Ron L'Herault To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, October 5, 2010 1:05:16 PM Subject: [TR] This is a bit OT I couldn't resist and had to share this: Paddy is passing by Mick's hay shed one day when through a gap in the door he sees Mick doing a slow and sensual striptease in front of his old red Massey Ferguson. Buttocks clenched, he performs a slow pirouette and gently slides off first to the right, then to the left. He then hunches his shoulders forward and in a classic striptease move, lets his braces fall down from his shoulders to dangle by his hips over his corduroy trousers . Grabbing both sides of his checked shirt, he rips it apart to reveal his tea stained vest underneath and with a final flourish he hurls his cap on to a pile of hay. "What on earth are you doing, Mick?" says Paddy. "Jeez Paddy, ye frightened the livin bejasus out of me!" says an obviously embarrassed Mick. "But me and the Missus been having some trouble lately in the bedroom department and the therapist suggested I do something sexy to a tractor! " _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed Oct 6 07:02:14 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 08:02:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] This is a bit OT In-Reply-To: <522847.15864.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <00f401cb64c8$a15ca030$47d6299b@ad.bu.edu>, <522847.15864.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: What are you trying to say about your fellow list members, Dave and Michael? Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 16:11:49 -0700 > From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > To: lherault at bu.edu > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] This is a bit OT > > was the tractor by chance a messy ferguson? > > > ________________________________ > From: Ron L'Herault > To: > triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, October 5, 2010 1:05:16 PM > Subject: [TR] > This is a bit OT > > I couldn't resist and had to share this: > > Paddy is passing > by Mick's hay shed one day when through a gap in > the door he sees Mick doing > a slow and sensual striptease in front of > his old red Massey Ferguson. > Buttocks clenched, he performs a slow pirouette and gently slides > off first > to the right, then to the left. > > He then hunches his shoulders forward and in > a classic striptease > move, lets his braces fall down from his shoulders to > dangle by his hips > over his corduroy trousers . > > Grabbing both sides of his > checked shirt, he rips it apart to > reveal his tea stained vest underneath and > with a final flourish he > hurls his cap on to a pile of hay. > > "What on earth > are you doing, Mick?" says Paddy. > > "Jeez Paddy, ye frightened the livin > bejasus out of me!" says an > obviously embarrassed Mick. "But me and the > Missus been having some > trouble lately in the bedroom department and the > therapist suggested I > do something sexy to a tractor! " > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Wed Oct 6 08:29:48 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 15:29:48 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA In-Reply-To: <707253.57675.qm@web83712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <707253.57675.qm@web83712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <940492.54672.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> I guess the chances of finding a replacement windscreen in North America for an Atlas / Leyland 15 / Leyland 20 are remote in the extreme. AFAIK they all shared the same screen so you'll need those descriptors to identify it. NFI but I suggest you contact Pilkington Glass Limited, Classic Car Windscreens Dept, Queenborough, Kent, England. Pilkington owns the Triplex brand name (and always has) and this particular location makes glass using the original tooling for a vast array of collector cars including lots of very limited run (and now ancient) Italian exotica. I used to work for this particular company in the early 80's and until recently had the reference guide for ALL the screens they made from 1950 till 1983. Lost the damned book now so I can't give you what Pilks call the HT number - but I'd guess it was somewhere in the range of HT 050 to HT 150. I'm fairly sure they could crank one out for you - but at what cost, I can't say. I'd take a stab at around US$250 for a laminated unit with a non-coloured interlayer at the factory gate but you've then got freight and packing. Won't be cheap - but there ain't any alternative for unobtanium. Send them a letter by snail mail as I can't locate an email address for the person/department you'd need. Good luck Jonmac ________________________________ From: Janis Dabars To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 6 October, 2010 2:45:02 Subject: [TR] Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA Subject: Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA My ATLAS/TRIUMPH as found in Canada >Needs MUCH help to get it mooving >DESPERATELY LOOKING TO PURCHASE WINDSCREEN [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN1.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN2.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN3.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN4.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN5.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN6.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN7.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN8.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN9.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN10.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN11.jpg] _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Wed Oct 6 09:34:37 2010 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 08:34:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] I'm Back ... In-Reply-To: <940492.54672.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <174413.10221.qm@web54108.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Been off for almost 2 years due to being laid off - finally back to work and hoping to jumpstart my rebuild. Did anyone miss me? Raymond L. Hatfield '65 TR4a '73 Stag From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 6 11:41:24 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 13:41:24 EDT Subject: [TR] This is a bit OT Message-ID: <275e5.31c0fa42.39de0ec4@cs.com> In a message dated 10/6/2010 8:04:16 AM Central Daylight Time, rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: > What are you trying to say about your fellow list members, Dave and > Michael? > Um... we're "tractive?" From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 6 11:49:07 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 13:49:07 EDT Subject: [TR] I'm Back ... Message-ID: <27e15.13c2588.39de1093@cs.com> In a message dated 10/6/2010 10:54:09 AM Central Daylight Time, iron_horse819 at yahoo.com writes: > Been off for almost 2 years due to being laid off - finally back to work > and hoping to jumpstart my rebuild. > > Did anyone miss me? > > > Raymond L. Hatfield > Yes, indeed. We McCoy's have found things rather quiet around here lately. Welcome back. Dave McCoy (er Massey) From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Oct 6 12:06:28 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2010 13:06:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?b?SSdtIEJhY2sgLi4u?= Message-ID: <20101006180537.642C9187656@autox.team.net> Got a note from the treasury dept. welcoming you back!! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Raymond Hatfield" Date: Wed, Oct 6, 2010 10:34 Subject: [TR] I'm Back ... To: Been off for almost 2 years due to being laid off - finally back to work and hoping to jumpstart my rebuild. Did anyone miss me? Raymond L. Hatfield '65 TR4a '73 Stag _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Wed Oct 6 12:29:46 2010 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 11:29:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] I'm Back ... In-Reply-To: <27e15.13c2588.39de1093@cs.com> Message-ID: <821293.15488.qm@web54101.mail.re2.yahoo.com> --- On Wed, 10/6/10, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > Yes, indeed. We McCoy's have found things rather > quiet around here lately. > > Welcome back. > > Dave McCoy (er Massey) LOL - Guess I'll just have to raise some Cain now! From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Wed Oct 6 12:33:06 2010 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 11:33:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] I'm Back ... Message-ID: <366140.73975.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> --- On Wed, 10/6/10, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > > Got a note from the treasury dept. welcoming you back!! Not yet, but I'm expecting it Jan 1 - I'm sure Uncle Obama will want his share! >Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Ouch, talk about rubbing salt in an open wound - They're the one's who let me go after plundering Alltel ... From agraham at execulink.com Wed Oct 6 12:37:27 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2010 14:37:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank question Message-ID: <4CACC1E7.6040508@execulink.com> Hello List: Re-installing my gas tank after it has been sitting indoors for some time. I originally had the tank cleaned at a rad shop and I sprayed the inside liberally with engine storage spray before storing it. The tank looked great, with no crud or rust on the inside. The tank now has a light coat of powdery rust on some of the inside panels. I sloshed a mixture of gasoline/varsol around the tank and it came out rust brown. Can't see beyond the baffles in the tank, but it does look cleaner where the solvent/gasoline washed it. Should I expect problems from this light coating of rust? Will it overwhelm the in-line gas line filter in short order? The rad shop fellow said it shouldn't be a problem. Any advice on this? Thanks in advance. Angelo Graham From tfansher at comcast.net Wed Oct 6 13:14:49 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 19:14:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank question In-Reply-To: <4CACC1E7.6040508@execulink.com> Message-ID: <1762594430.74792.1286392489380.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I don't think that it will be much of a problem. I use the glass, see through fuel filter and check it pretty frequently - got mine through JEGS, but there are other sources. I did clean it after a couple of tanks of gas and now not a problem - about 750 miles on the rebuild.B I had a solid filter block in the Stag and have since replaced that one with a glass one, also Tom From wbeech at flash.net Wed Oct 6 13:22:42 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 13:22:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank question In-Reply-To: <4CACC1E7.6040508@execulink.com> References: <4CACC1E7.6040508@execulink.com> Message-ID: Angelo, Not sure what the list will say as far as the best cleaning agents as I have never had to go there with my TR3, but if you are not currently using a replaceable cartridge in-line filter (available at any FLAPS) then I would highly recommend you install one before you get on the road. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2010 12:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank question Hello List: Re-installing my gas tank after it has been sitting indoors for some time. I originally had the tank cleaned at a rad shop and I sprayed the inside liberally with engine storage spray before storing it. The tank looked great, with no crud or rust on the inside. The tank now has a light coat of powdery rust on some of the inside panels. I sloshed a mixture of gasoline/varsol around the tank and it came out rust brown. Can't see beyond the baffles in the tank, but it does look cleaner where the solvent/gasoline washed it. Should I expect problems from this light coating of rust? Will it overwhelm the in-line gas line filter in short order? The rad shop fellow said it shouldn't be a problem. Any advice on this? Thanks in advance. Angelo Graham _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Wed Oct 6 16:24:32 2010 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 18:24:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA Message-ID: <1b34f0.27c4af66.39de5120@aol.com> I have been in the glass business as a blue collar worker for 38+years (Ford Motor Company) and if you can get a custom made laminated windshield for $250 I would think that would be a bargain. There is more than people realize about auto glass, wether it is laminated or tempered. It also depends on if the part is flat or curved. I have worked on the melting furnaces producing the glass and have been running a cutting and finishing line for 33 years. Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs Tulsa, OK I'm fairly sure they could crank one out for you - but at what cost, I can't say. I'd take a stab at around US$250 for a laminated unit with a non-coloured interlayer at the factory gate but you've then got freight and packing. Won't be cheap - but there ain't any alternative for unobtanium. Send them a letter by snail mail as I can't locate an email address for the person/department you'd need. Good luck Jonmac From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 6 16:28:32 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 18:28:32 EDT Subject: [TR] I'm Back ... Message-ID: <21541d.5bc6f242.39de5210@cs.com> In a message dated 10/6/2010 1:33:32 PM Central Daylight Time, iron_horse819 at yahoo.com writes: > > > >Yes, indeed. We McCoy's have found things rather > >quiet around here lately. > > > >Welcome back. > > > >Dave McCoy (er Massey) > > LOL - Guess I'll just have to raise some Cain now! If your Able. Dave From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 6 16:56:57 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 15:56:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA In-Reply-To: <1b34f0.27c4af66.39de5120@aol.com> References: <1b34f0.27c4af66.39de5120@aol.com> Message-ID: <024f01cb65a9$c73f1670$0301a8c0@randall> > if you can get a custom made > laminated windshield > for $250 I would think that would be a bargain. But there may be bargains out there. I recently got a quote for a laminated (and tinted) TR3 windshield, and the charge for the glass (IIRC from Pilkington through an importer in the US) was under $300. (Total quote, including installation & materials, was about $425, but the fellow admitted he was going heavy on labor since he'd never done a TR3 before.) You might try contacting Richard Tankel at either 877-345-2800 or email:richardt at prosourceglasintl.com. He posted last year that he could import from the UK and ship within the US at a reasonable price. No mention of Canada, but perhaps something could be worked out. Randall From mark at bradakis.com Wed Oct 6 19:34:22 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2010 19:34:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] I'm Back ... In-Reply-To: <21541d.5bc6f242.39de5210@cs.com> References: <21541d.5bc6f242.39de5210@cs.com> Message-ID: <4CAD239E.4070001@bradakis.com> >> LOL - Guess I'll just have to raise some Cain now! >> > If your Able. > > Dave > > Knock it off, guys, before you start a feud of biblical proportions! mjb. From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed Oct 6 21:28:10 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 22:28:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] I'm Back ... In-Reply-To: <4CAD239E.4070001@bradakis.com> References: <21541d.5bc6f242.39de5210@cs.com>,<4CAD239E.4070001@bradakis.com> Message-ID: you give them chapter and verse! Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 19:34:22 -0600 > From: mark at bradakis.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] I'm Back ... > > >> LOL - Guess I'll just have to raise some Cain now! > >> > > If your Able. > > > > Dave > > > > > > Knock it off, guys, before you start a feud of biblical proportions! > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 7 05:42:50 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 07:42:50 EDT Subject: [TR] I'm Back ... Message-ID: <26614.2c1cd1cd.39df0c3a@cs.com> In a message dated 10/6/2010 8:55:53 PM Central Daylight Time, mark at bradakis.com writes: > Knock it off, guys, before you start a feud of biblical proportions! > Yes sir! When Salt Lake City calls and threatens pestilence of biblical proportions, I pay attention. Dave From aljlthomson at charter.net Thu Oct 7 05:51:34 2010 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 07:51:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank question References: <4CACC1E7.6040508@execulink.com> Message-ID: <14094DA447934A19A04695F160803503@D6254Z51> When I have to deal with old, rusty tanks in farm tractors, I use a sealer available from a company called "The Shop". This sealer works well, seems to resist alcohol, and keeps the strainer bowl quite clean. I'm not sure if your tank is quite in need of this yet. http://www.theshopproducts.com/products_gastank.html Alex Thomson Connecticut Triumph Register ----- Original Message ----- From: "Angelo Graham" To: Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2010 2:37 PM Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank question > Hello List: > Re-installing my gas tank after it has been sitting indoors for some time. > I originally had the tank cleaned at a rad shop and I sprayed the inside > liberally with engine storage spray before storing it. The tank looked > great, with no crud or rust on the inside. The tank now has a light coat > of powdery rust on some of the inside panels. > I sloshed a mixture of gasoline/varsol around the tank and it came out > rust brown. Can't see beyond the baffles in the tank, but it does look > cleaner where the solvent/gasoline washed it. > Should I expect problems from this light coating of rust? Will it > overwhelm the in-line gas line filter in short order? The rad shop fellow > said it shouldn't be a problem. > Any advice on this? > Thanks in advance. > Angelo Graham > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Thu Oct 7 06:16:32 2010 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 05:16:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] I'm Back ... In-Reply-To: <21541d.5bc6f242.39de5210@cs.com> Message-ID: <946825.48308.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com> --- On Wed, 10/6/10, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Subject: Re: [TR] I'm Back ... > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, October 6, 2010, 5:28 PM > In a message dated 10/6/2010 1:33:32 > PM Central Daylight Time, > iron_horse819 at yahoo.com > writes: > > > > > >Yes, indeed. We McCoy's have found things > rather > > >quiet around here lately. > > > > > >Welcome back. > > > > > >Dave McCoy (er Massey) > > > > LOL - Guess I'll just have to raise some Cain now! > > If your Able. > > Dave Well, my momma said I was the only hell she ever raised .... From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Thu Oct 7 06:18:56 2010 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 05:18:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] I'm Back ... In-Reply-To: <4CAD239E.4070001@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <118929.39948.qm@web54101.mail.re2.yahoo.com> --- On Wed, 10/6/10, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > From: Mark J Bradakis > Subject: Re: [TR] I'm Back ... > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, October 6, 2010, 8:34 PM > >> LOL - Guess I'll just have > to raise some Cain now! > >> > > If your Able. > > > > Dave > > > > > > Knock it off, guys, before you start a feud of biblical > proportions! > > mjb. Shucks, y'all never let us have any fun! From rbtr3a at cox.net Thu Oct 7 07:24:23 2010 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 13:24:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 photo need for Cover. Message-ID: <532774819-1286457804-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1605264601-@bda542.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Guys I'm looking for a great photo shot of a TR6 for use as the Cover for the upcoming VTR convention. This photo will be for the event program. I'm looking for that one great shot. However I need a photo right away. The requirement are as follows. Please send you submission to the following addresses Rbtr3a at cox.net and bdisher at blakedisher.com Submissions due ASAP, images at least 5x7 at 300pp. Also in you email please make the statement that you are providing your submission for use with no expected compensation Need it now!!! Thanks Ronnie Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Oct 7 08:44:55 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 07:44:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank question Message-ID: <716157.55610.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Being that it is such a PITA to revisit, you should probably just do it right at the start. I bought a kit from KBS coatings. It had warning signs that it bonds everything permanently. I bought the kit for motorcycle gas tanks because our gas tanks are small and to save a few bucks. I did it last spring sometime and the stuff still looks and works great. I had put the MOSS slushing compound in my tank about 12 years ago, but it flaked off and plugged up the tank discharge. I might not have prepared the tank properly though. I am really happy with the KBS coatings stuff. Bill in Tehachapi Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2010 14:37:27 -0400 From: Angelo Graham Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank question To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <4CACC1E7.6040508 at execulink.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Hello List: Re-installing my gas tank after it has been sitting indoors for some time. I originally had the tank cleaned at a rad shop and I sprayed the inside liberally with engine storage spray before storing it. The tank looked great, with no crud or rust on the inside. The tank now has a light coat of powdery rust on some of the inside panels. I sloshed a mixture of gasoline/varsol around the tank and it came out rust brown. Can't see beyond the baffles in the tank, but it does look cleaner where the solvent/gasoline washed it. Should I expect problems from this light coating of rust? Will it overwhelm the in-line gas line filter in short order? The rad shop fellow said it shouldn't be a problem. Any advice on this? Thanks in advance. Angelo Graham From tfansher at comcast.net Thu Oct 7 09:31:26 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 15:31:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] odd sized TR3 style top Message-ID: <334504078.128814.1286465486502.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> The "new" TR3A - commission number after 60,000 came with a top still in the box with no markings. It was purchased about 1995 and is in great shape. It's the three window top. I think the center window is more curved than squared off. Anyway, it's about 3 inches short in all dimensions. No way will it stretch even when hot ( this is Florida after all) enough to have been the proper top for this model. Question: Where some of the earlier tops "smaller" ? if so, anyone need one of the smaller tops? TIA Tom 60 TR3A topless 61 TR3A going to Jekyll with my Red Ale 73 Stag going to Jekyll to carry a lot of stuff 62 TR4 next in line for a rebuild From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 7 09:49:26 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 08:49:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas tank question In-Reply-To: <4CACC1E7.6040508@execulink.com> References: <4CACC1E7.6040508@execulink.com> Message-ID: <02eb01cb6637$38f006c0$0301a8c0@randall> > Should I expect problems from this light coating of rust? Will it > overwhelm the in-line gas line filter in short order? Sounds like I am in the minority, but IMO it is not likely to be a problem. I ran my TR3A for 20 years with the tank slowly rusting away (as witnessed by rust flakes in the sediment bowl http://tinyurl.com/2bxk8y7 ) with no apparent ill effects. On the TR3, the paint shop got a bunch of paint inside the tank and some of the tiny flakes were making it past the sediment bowl and screen, so I added a paper element fuel filter before the carbs. It's been on there for over a year (and probably 10,000 miles) with no problem either. However, I would recommend replacing it every year or two, JIC. Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Oct 7 14:38:52 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 16:38:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3AdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter In-Reply-To: <334504078.128814.1286465486502.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <334504078.128814.1286465486502.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Yes, I have one - original in box. won't be used as a lighter - but as an electrical connection. Question - where should it be mounted.? To me it should be where the windshield/washer pump is mounted - in the area between the cubby box and center panel just above where the ashtray mounts to the facia support. The other three options seem to be: 1) in that same spot on the other side of the center panel (or as an option mount the w/w pump there) 2) on the facia at the upper right corner of the center panel. I am not sure of the clearance there. 3) on a bracket mounted next to the ashtray under the dash facia. Any thoughts? Thanks Carl From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 7 15:40:21 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 14:40:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3AdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter In-Reply-To: References: <334504078.128814.1286465486502.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <034101cb6668$3ea89a60$0301a8c0@randall> > 3) on a bracket mounted next to the ashtray under the dash facia. That's basically where I plan to mount mine (except I don't have an ashtray). I do occasionally get caught in the rain with no rain gear, so it should be someplace semi-protected from the weather. I'll probably also point it downwards, so water will run out even if it does get wet. Randall From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Thu Oct 7 16:15:30 2010 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 22:15:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3AdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter In-Reply-To: <034101cb6668$3ea89a60$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <990513032.36588.1286489730096.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Me too. I made a mounting plate out of plexiglass for the "auxillary outlet" (it didn't even come with a lighter) and the toggle switch for the cooling fan. But now I am thinking about moving it so I can put the ashtray bracket back in and fashion some kind of cup holder that would slide into that bracket. Maybe use the ashtray as the slide? Anyone do anything like this? Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Thursday, October 7, 2010 2:40:21 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3Addddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd ddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter > 3) on a bracket mounted next to the ashtray under the dash facia. That's basically where I plan to mount mine (except I don't have an ashtray). B I do occasionally get caught in the rain with no rain gear, so it should be someplace semi-protected from the weather. B I'll probably also point it downwards, so water will run out even if it does get wet. Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Oct 7 17:33:48 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 19:33:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3AdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter In-Reply-To: References: <334504078.128814.1286465486502.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I made a bracket and mounted a modern dual unit up under the dash. It's easy to find and out of site. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Oct 7 17:43:19 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 16:43:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3AdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter In-Reply-To: <990513032.36588.1286489730096.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <034101cb6668$3ea89a60$0301a8c0@randall> <990513032.36588.1286489730096.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Carrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrl, I put mine out of sight on a panel with a couple of switches I needed to add, but then mine is not original style or even period correct. http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%2012V%20Socket.JPG If you are positive ground you will want to bear that in mind as many of these lighters/outlets use the body of the unit for a ground and you may need to isolate it to have the correct polarity for your 12V crock pot or whatever you have in mind. Geo From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Oct 7 17:56:39 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 19:56:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A lighter In-Reply-To: References: <334504078.128814.1286465486502.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD34926B25E754-14C-A2A2@webmail-m038.sysops.aol.com> For whatever it's worth, the 1960 TR3A I bought in '72 (and sold in '08) had a Casco lighter mounted next to the heater rheostat switch on the far LH side of the dash, presumably using the same location where an OD switch would've been fitted. That's not very convenient for use as a power outlet, but I found it a useful location for an actual cigarette lighter at the time! :-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR Yes, I have one - original in box. won't be used as a lighter - but as an electrical connection.B Question - where should it be mounted.?B From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Oct 7 18:44:55 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 19:44:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR3Adddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd?= =?utf-8?q?dddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd?= =?utf-8?q?dddddddddddddddddddTR3A_-_lighter?= Message-ID: <20101008004404.4D644187872@autox.team.net> Or you can just make a pigtail adaptor with the socket and plug from radioshack or napa. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" Date: Thu, Oct 7, 2010 18:43 Subject: [TR] TR3AdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter To: "Triumphs" Carrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrl, I put mine out of sight on a panel with a couple of switches I needed to add, but then mine is not original style or even period correct. http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%2012V%20Socket.JPG If you are positive ground you will want to bear that in mind as many of these lighters/outlets use the body of the unit for a ground and you may need to isolate it to have the correct polarity for your 12V crock pot or whatever you have in mind. Geo _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From mark at bradakis.com Thu Oct 7 19:40:21 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 19:40:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3AdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter In-Reply-To: References: <334504078.128814.1286465486502.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4CAE7685.8010008@bradakis.com> Carl TR wrote: > Yes, I have one - original in box. One what? A keyboard with a bad 'd' key? mjb. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Oct 7 19:49:21 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 21:49:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A - lighter In-Reply-To: References: <334504078.128814.1286465486502.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6412CC146ED1425B83C1332A4CE1AE39@CarlPC> sorry about the dddddd not sure what I did Anyway - it seems that an auxiliary bracket is the consensus. I do have a sheet of black hard plastic - as time permits I'll work on coming up with something. Thanks. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 4:38 PM Subject: [TR] TR3AdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter > Yes, I have one - original in box. won't be used as a lighter - but as > an electrical connection. > Question - where should it be mounted.? > > To me it should be where the windshield/washer pump is mounted - in the > area between the cubby box and center panel just above where the ashtray > mounts to the facia support. > > The other three options seem to be: > 1) in that same spot on the other side of the center panel (or as an > option mount the w/w pump there) > 2) on the facia at the upper right corner of the center panel. I am not > sure of the clearance there. > 3) on a bracket mounted next to the ashtray under the dash facia. > > Any thoughts? > > Thanks > Carl > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Oct 7 20:14:47 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 22:14:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3AdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter In-Reply-To: <4CAE7685.8010008@bradakis.com> References: <334504078.128814.1286465486502.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <4CAE7685.8010008@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <42C5E194DC5F417481229F6DC0F4EE60@CarlPC> lol.... must be or maybe I fell asleep while typing.... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 9:40 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3AdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter > Carl TR wrote: >> Yes, I have one - original in box. > > One what? A keyboard with a bad 'd' key? > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From spitlist at cox.net Thu Oct 7 20:43:33 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 19:43:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3AdddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter In-Reply-To: <42C5E194DC5F417481229F6DC0F4EE60@CarlPC> Message-ID: <20101008024254.TAET4042.fed1rmmtao101.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> No, that would have been all ZZZZZZZZZZZZz's! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 7:15 PM To: Mark J Bradakis; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR3Adddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd dddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter lol.... must be or maybe I fell asleep while typing.... From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Oct 7 21:26:57 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 23:26:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3Adddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd In-Reply-To: <20101008024254.TAET4042.fed1rmmtao101.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> References: <42C5E194DC5F417481229F6DC0F4EE60@CarlPC> Message-ID: <4CAE5741.31800.12F6B58A@localhost> On 7 Oct 2010 at 19:43, Joe Curry wrote: > No, that would have been all ZZZZZZZZZZZZz's! > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR ... > Subject: Re: [TR] > TR3Adddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd > dddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddTR3A - lighter > > lol.... must be or maybe I fell asleep while typing.... This thread is just baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Fri Oct 8 05:34:01 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 12:34:01 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA In-Reply-To: <005301cb66b7$60d7e100$0501a8c0@CLARENEW> References: <724439.74670.qm@web83707.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <005301cb66b7$60d7e100$0501a8c0@CLARENEW> Message-ID: <601552.75114.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> CanleyB Classics wrote:o;? Only three surviving Atlas's in the UK, and Europe, that's a laugh! B As it was a (usually reliable) club source that told me of the known number of 'runners', I would assume the club knows better than me of the flotsam and jetsam that's stillB floating around out there - or are enthusiasts expected to be clairvoyant of what still exists and where it can be found? Jonmac From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 8 06:13:01 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 08:13:01 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3Adddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd... Message-ID: <69302.4ef73ec5.39e064cd@cs.com> In a message dated 10/7/2010 10:42:28 PM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > This thread is just baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad. > Who let the sheep in? From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Oct 8 07:56:30 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 09:56:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] cigar lighters and convenience outlets Message-ID: List, 50 years ago the test of a "real" TR3 driver was the ability to light a cigarette with a match, bent over behind the dash, while traveling at 70 mph on a 2 lane road in the rain. Now I need a 12 volt source for my respirator. Ed Woods From wbeech at flash.net Fri Oct 8 08:01:28 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 08:01:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA-How Many?? In-Reply-To: <601552.75114.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <724439.74670.qm@web83707.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><005301cb66b7$60d7e100$0501a8c0@CLARENEW> <601552.75114.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, Interesting subject in general, I have often wondered how many of our older models are still in roadworthy cognition. And, how would someone ever go about assembling that data. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 5:34 AM To: Canley Classics; Janis Dabars; TRDOCTOR at aol.com; info at revingtontr.com Cc: Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA CanleyB Classics wrote:o;? Only three surviving Atlas's in the UK, and Europe, that's a laugh! B As it was a (usually reliable) club source that told me of the known number of 'runners', I would assume the club knows better than me of the flotsam and jetsam that's stillB floating around out there - or are enthusiasts expected to be clairvoyant of what still exists and where it can be found? Jonmac _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Fri Oct 8 08:04:14 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 09:04:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3Adddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd... In-Reply-To: <69302.4ef73ec5.39e064cd@cs.com> References: <69302.4ef73ec5.39e064cd@cs.com> Message-ID: > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > > > Who let the sheep in? At least they didn't let the dogs out. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From wbeech at flash.net Fri Oct 8 09:13:01 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 09:13:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA-How Many?? In-Reply-To: <007b01cb66f7$16eb0f50$0501a8c0@CLARENEW> References: <724439.74670.qm@web83707.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <005301cb66b7$60d7e100$0501a8c0@CLARENEW> <601552.75114.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> <007b01cb66f7$16eb0f50$0501a8c0@CLARENEW> Message-ID: <87D8AFCE-D617-458C-B8B5-D7AB5C296988@flash.net> What about TR2&3 and the Roadsters? There is a sign-up registry but I would seriously doubt that it is very complete. Mobile Bill On Oct 8, 2010, at 8:42 AM, "Canley Classics" wrote: > It's been done. > > A guy over here (Bill Davies) maintained an Atlas register for many years. He was aware of most if not all extent Atlas (I have never managed to surprise him with a 'new' one). > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: "'John Macartney'" ; "'Canley Classics'" ; "'Janis Dabars'" ; ; > Cc: "'Triumph List'" > Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 3:01 PM > Subject: RE: [TR] Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA-How Many?? > > >> John, >> Interesting subject in general, I have often wondered how many of our older >> models are still in roadworthy cognition. And, how would someone ever go >> about assembling that >> data. >> >> Bill >> >> Bill Beecher >> '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" >> www.triumphowners.com/1566 >> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of >> course, some times it is difficult to make it go" >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney >> Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 5:34 AM >> To: Canley Classics; Janis Dabars; TRDOCTOR at aol.com; info at revingtontr.com >> Cc: Triumph List >> Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: ATLAS/TRIUMPH VAN IN CANADA---USA >> >> CanleyB Classics wrote:o;? >> Only three surviving Atlas's in the UK, and Europe, that's a laugh! >> B >> As it was a (usually reliable) club source that told me of the known number >> of 'runners', I would assume the club knows better than me of the flotsam >> and jetsam that's stillB floating around out there - or are enthusiasts >> expected to be clairvoyant of what still exists and where it can be found? >> >> Jonmac >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Fri Oct 8 18:28:07 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Fri, 08 Oct 2010 19:28:07 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Fwd: Fwd: Cell phone Message-ID: <18439965.2908224.1286584087281.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Oct 8 18:50:37 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 20:50:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Fwd: Cell phone References: <18439965.2908224.1286584087281.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> Message-ID: <858330B442CD4E9E91525DC1D69A19DF@Alan> Fred, These messages are killing me. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "frede.thomas2" To: Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 8:28 PM Subject: [TR] Fwd: Fwd: Cell phone > > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From mark at bradakis.com Fri Oct 8 19:17:32 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 08 Oct 2010 19:17:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Fwd: Cell phone In-Reply-To: <858330B442CD4E9E91525DC1D69A19DF@Alan> References: <18439965.2908224.1286584087281.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> <858330B442CD4E9E91525DC1D69A19DF@Alan> Message-ID: <4CAFC2AC.5020004@bradakis.com> Fred is using Verizon Webmail to compose his messages. Obviously that program has trouble generating intelligible HTML code, so the mail filters chucks it all out as useless scratchings. I've never used Verizon Webmail, so I have no idea what settings he should change to generate legitimate messages. mjb. From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Oct 9 08:37:35 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 09 Oct 2010 09:37:35 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Fwd: Fwd: Cell phone Message-ID: <1250547829.461841.1286635055918.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net> Fred needs to click the Plain text option before he sends the email, and then it will get through to the list. Craig 72 TR6 Oct 8, 2010 09:42:00 PM, mark at bradakis.com wrote: Fred is using Verizon Webmail to compose his messages. Obviously that program has trouble generating intelligible HTML code, so the mail filters chucks it all out as useless scratchings. I've never used Verizon Webmail, so I have no idea what settings he should change to generate legitimate messages. mjb. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From jdabars at att.net Sat Oct 9 09:21:38 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 08:21:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Challange to Georgia Triumph Association Message-ID: <684670.77365.qm@web83705.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> The HOOSIER contingency members, attending the VTR Convention, here by issue a challange to the GTA(Georgia Triumph Association) members to participate in SEA GULL EXCRIMENT tossing contest. Each team to supply two "flasks" of their geographical area libation as prize. We suggest that the GTA supply two Masson Jars of Georgia's finest moonshine and we will supply honey mead wine(world famous Indiana specialty). Winner of the tossing contest "takes all". If any other chapter of VTR wishes to participate, please let us know. This contest, should it take place, is NOT a VTR sanctioned event. Participants are to supply their own dried sea gull excriment, found on the Island only. Furthest toss will determine the winner. NO apeals, No retosses, three tosses per contestant, NO GLOVES. While other convention members will be playing with their "balls" on the green, we shall NOT shoot but be a tossin' the dried sea gull excriment in friendly competition. Further information may or my not be available at registration, IFF we find a registrar. WHAT SAY YE, GTA BRETHEREN-----you ALL accept??? From ols at bcdef.net Sat Oct 9 20:36:32 2010 From: ols at bcdef.net (Alexander Delis) Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 22:36:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 Window problem Message-ID: <61C6C708-A4B1-4D21-8C12-3F20EED26C86@bcdef.net> Esteemed listers The rear vent window on my GT6 has come loose. The piano hinge that it swivels on in the front was attached with spot welds to the B pillar that have come loose. As I do not have a spot welder (and wonder if that is REALLY the best way to attach this) I was thinking that drilling through the piano hinge into the B pillar and using self-tapping screws would be a reasonable way of re-attaching this. Does anyone have any gotchas about doing this (or for that matter a better idea)? Should I do anything else to prevent moisture from getting in there? Any and all comments appreciated. Thanks Alex 1958 TR3 TS33884LO 1968 GT6 KC10303 1976 TR6 CF51981U From zoboherald at aol.com Sat Oct 9 20:42:34 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Sat, 09 Oct 2010 22:42:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 Window problem In-Reply-To: <61C6C708-A4B1-4D21-8C12-3F20EED26C86@bcdef.net> References: <61C6C708-A4B1-4D21-8C12-3F20EED26C86@bcdef.net> Message-ID: <8CD363BED525785-D24-13C8C@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Alexander Delis The rear vent window on my GT6 has come loose. The piano hinge that it swivels on in the front was attached with spot welds to the B pillar that have come loose. As I do not have a spot welder (and wonder if that is REALLY the best way to attach this) I was thinking that drilling through the piano hinge into the B pillar and using self-tapping screws would be a reasonable way of re-attaching this. Does anyone have any gotchas about doing this (or for that matter a better idea)? ==AM== Better, I don't know, but the original method of attachment was with rivets, and that's probably as easy as anything! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Oct 1 23:58:50 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2010 01:58:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine rebuild In-Reply-To: <832172808.2074832.1285193057694.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <832172808.2074832.1285193057694.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Well - I finally got the breather pipe plug out. Major operation... Initial efforts resulted in the plug being pushed inwards. I eventually was able to drill a hole in it , threading a 1/4" lag bolt into the hole. I was then able to "reverse" the plug out by turning the bolt. Had to take off the oil pan and clutch slave to gain access. I know this has been covered before but .... one old email and a more recent thread from the archives: Is the outlined process below correct? Thanks Carl 1997 email: There are several ways to tackle this... here's what I did when I started my fresh motor the first time... For some reason (dunno why) you're supposed to do the break-in with 30wt non-detergent oil. We took a pressure plant sprayer and filled it with oil, then adapted the nozzle end to fit into the oil pressure sending unit hole. Then we pumped that oil into the block this way. Theoretically, this pressurized to some extent the entire oil galley, and I even remember reading the pressure (albeit less than 10 pounds or so) on the gauge. Once all the oil was in, then we fired it up. We ran it for 1 hour, then dumped the oil and changed the filter, poured in fresh 30 wt (no plant sprayer this time), replaced the sending unit, then started it up again. After about 500 miles I changed the oil and filter again, and did another 500 miles. After that first 1000 miles I switched over to Mobil 1 15W50. 2004 thread: Message text written by INTERNET:TERJE_KOLBEINSEN at bluezone.no I've just completed assembly of the chassis / drive train of my 1957 TR3. Yesterday I turn the engine around for the first time using the starter (no ignition yet) and my question is: Am I right to worry not being abel to get oilpressure readings during this short, slow RPM turning? Is there anything I could do to ensure oil is transfered through the system? Message text written by Dave Massey: You should see oil pressure when turning the engine on the starter but since this is a fresh rebuild it may take quite some time to prime the pump. If you have the spark plugs removed the starter will turn the engine more quickly with less load on the starter so you can turn it for longer periods than if the plugs were installed. Since this is a fresh rebuild did you pack the oil pump with some grease? The pump depends on oil filling the clearances and without it (if the pump was dry) air will blead pass these clearances and it will not pump well at all. Packing it with grease (both petroleum jelly of the special engine assembly grease are good choices) will close off the clearances within the pump and it will prime more readily. Without oil or grease it may take several minutes of cranking before you get pressure. I highly recommend that you verify oil presssure before you attmpt to start the engine. Message text written by Randall:> Since this is a fresh rebuild did you pack the oil pump with some grease? The pump on the TR3 hangs down into the oil, there is no need to prime it with grease. But the comment about spinning the engine with the plugs out, and it taking some time to build oil pressure, is right on target. After all, you've got that great big filter canister to fill, and the pump only puts out a little bit per revolution. In theory you can take apart the distributor drive and turn the oil pump with an electric drill until it fills all the passages, but IMO it's a lot of work for no gain. As long as you've smeared everything with assembly lube, it won't hurt at all to turn the engine with the starter, especially with the plugs out. Message text by Paul Dorsey:At VTR recently, I was told to prime a newly rebuilt engine by using a drill motor to spin the distributor shaft and temporairly produce oil pressure prior to starting the engine. I thought this sounded like overkill, is it? Message text by JackDrews:It may be overkill if you're doing your own work on your own car because if you need to solve a problem, your labor is "free", but my opinion is that it's a good thing to do. I've built quite a few TR engines for vintage racers and for cars being restored. I always fill the whole system by turning the pump over with a drill. You can do the same thing with a crank-type spin-on wrench but by using an electric drill and 30 weight startup oil, the speed of the drill will produce 50 to 60 psi. For cars with oil coolers and sometimes remote oil filters and lots of hose connections, I like to get the whole system full, check for leaks prior to startup, and make sure that the pump is primed. But then, I also run each engine on a test stand before giving it to the customer. This is especially important to me since about half the engines I build are installed by the owner, not me. I started running the engine on a stand after I shipped an engine from my shop in Illinois to a customer in Colorado. He had a massive oil leak at the rear of the engine, and I went to Colorado and fixed it. I've run into some really goofy things and saved myself and my customers from a lot of grief by running each engine on a stand, and pressurizing the system will uncover some but not all of these problems. For example, the aftermarket rear seals don't work 100% of the time. Occasionally I have to replace them (but since I've found out what to alter I've had a 100% success rate). I had an engine that had a timing cover leak -- the pulley seal was misidentified by the vendor. It had the right OD but an incorrect ID. I didn't notice that there was no lip seal tension when I put the front pulley on - one more thing to check. I particularly like the ability to run in a new camshaft myself and retorque the head, something that customers cannot be trusted to do, I've found out the hard way. Water pumps are troublesome too and some are leaky, and rather than try to justify to a customer a policy of replacing them all, I use the customer's present pump and replace when necessary. From oertwig at mac.com Sun Oct 10 12:45:47 2010 From: oertwig at mac.com (Stephen Oertwig) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 08:45:47 -1000 Subject: [TR] GT6 vent window In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The rear window my GT6 also is loose. I was just going to seal it back in place with clear silicone. Is this a bad idea? Aloha, Steve On Oct 10, 2010, at 8:00 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 22:36:32 -0400 > From: Alexander Delis > Subject: [TR] GT6 Window problem > To: Triumph List > Message-ID: <61C6C708-A4B1-4D21-8C12-3F20EED26C86 at bcdef.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Esteemed listers > > The rear vent window on my GT6 has come loose. > > The piano hinge that it swivels on in the front was attached with spot welds > to the B pillar that have come loose. > > As I do not have a spot welder (and wonder if that is REALLY the best way to > attach this) I was thinking that drilling through the piano hinge into the B > pillar and using self-tapping screws would be a reasonable way of re-attaching > this. > > Does anyone have any gotchas about doing this (or for that matter a better > idea)? > > Should I do anything else to prevent moisture from getting in there? > > Any and all comments appreciated. > > Thanks > > Alex > > > > 1958 TR3 TS33884LO > 1968 GT6 KC10303 > 1976 TR6 CF51981U > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sat, 09 Oct 2010 22:42:34 -0400 > From: Andrew Mace > Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 Window problem > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <8CD363BED525785-D24-13C8C at webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > > > ==AM== > Better, I don't know, but the original method of attachment was with > rivets, and that's probably as easy as anything! > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, > Triumph Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph > Register: http://www.vtr.org > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph > Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us > > > ------------------------------ From don at napanet.net Sun Oct 10 17:39:59 2010 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 16:39:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 Message-ID: <20101010234011.02FC1AE65E@mail.dsl.napanet.net> I just got a call from a fellow in Lake County, California. He has a '68 GT6 which is in pieces, and he needs to dispose of it within a weeks time. He said he would give it to wrecker if he can't get rid of it. I don't know details. His phone no. is 707 998 9548. Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Oct 10 19:52:11 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 01:52:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels In-Reply-To: <1177419798.260279.1286761858368.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1990329969.260325.1286761931844.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I was able to install the inner wheel well covers on my TR3A this weekend with good results. The next step after installing the rear panel that covers the gas tank, and the rear cappings, is the two side panels. I can see the holes that the finishing screws go into on the body, and the holes on the capings,that line up with these but the interior panels do not have any holes except for the two large holes for the screws to go through that secure the top bow. I thought I could put the screws in and put a touch of paint on the heads (taping them first) and then push the panel in place to mark the location of the holes, then punch through using an awl. Also, I assume that the B post that has the strip of wood also takes some screws, but without the holes in the panel, and none on the wood (I had to replace these as the originals were roted out), I am not sure where these would go. Any thoughts from those that have BTDT on how to get these holes marked correctly so that all line up properely? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Oct 10 20:54:30 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 19:54:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 20 weight for Carbs Message-ID: <320144.8265.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> ISTR that the SU carb dampers need 20 weight oil. I've been using ATF for years. At one time I used some Penrite Oil (or something like that) that MOSS was selling. The plastic container split and leaked and I never bought another. Is there another source for 20 weight oil, like at a FLAPS or maybe a motorcycle shop? Anything wrong with using ATF? -Bill in Tehachapi From mark at bradakis.com Sun Oct 10 22:21:45 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 22:21:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] 20 weight for Carbs In-Reply-To: <320144.8265.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <320144.8265.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4CB290D9.90907@bradakis.com> ATF is fine. So is Marvel Mystery oil. So is 20 or 30 weight engine oil, or 3 in 1. Various grades of olive oil would work, using expensive extra virgin is sort of a waste. Sugar water would tend to dry up and get sticky, I'd avoid that. Basically any light viscosity oil works. I've been using air tool oil for years, started using it because it is about the right thickness and usually comes in a bottle with a handy spout. At Bailey's we used the Penrite from Moss, never had an issue with the packaging. But we went through it faster than most home mechanics would, the bottles weren't around that long. mjb. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 10 22:30:12 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 21:30:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] 20 weight for Carbs In-Reply-To: <320144.8265.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <320144.8265.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <06ad01cb68fc$ff16e950$0301a8c0@randall> > ISTR that the SU carb dampers need 20 weight oil. Actually, I believe the factory recommendation was to use the same (straight) weight oil recommended for the engine. However, 20 weight seemed to work best when I did some experiments with my TR3A. > Is > there another source for 20 weight oil, like at a FLAPS None of mine seem to carry 20 weight motor oil any more. Kind of looks like no one makes it. > or > maybe a motorcycle shop? Should still be able to buy 20 weight fork oil, but I haven't actually tried recently (yet). Maybe tomorrow. > Anything wrong with using ATF? On my car, ATF produced just a bit of "lean bog", where the engine wouldn't respond quite as strongly when first opening the throttle. Not really noticeable, until comparing with heavier oil. But it depends a lot on other factors, so it may work just fine in your carbs. And the lean bog won't actually harm anything, as long as the engine doesn't actually stumble (misfire). Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Oct 10 23:20:35 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 22:20:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] 20 weight for Carbs In-Reply-To: <320144.8265.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <320144.8265.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bill, Wayne Bier of Triumphs Only uses only ATF ... he has a vast experience with Triumphs and I trust his judgement implicitly ... > ISTR that the SU carb dampers need 20 weight oil. I've been >using ATF for years. At one time I used some Penrite Oil (or >something like that) that MOSS was selling. The plastic container >split and leaked and I never bought another. Is there another source >for 20 weight oil, like at a FLAPS or maybe a motorcycle shop? >Anything wrong with using ATF? > > -Bill in Tehachapi -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From wbeech at flash.net Sun Oct 10 23:27:47 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 23:27:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels In-Reply-To: <1990329969.260325.1286761931844.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1177419798.260279.1286761858368.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1990329969.260325.1286761931844.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Scott, I think you will find it easier to install the rear side panels before you install the rear panel that covers the tank. What I did was to measure the holes and approximate their location on the panel, then using a small hole cutting knife from my x-acto set I cut the hole through the vinyl and the padding, this helps to prevent the padding from being wound in the drill bit when you drill a pilot hole and then the screw when you put it in. I know that I probably missed the original holes but some fraction of an inch but as long as they were equal on both sides of the car the appearance was not affected. The strip of 'wood' along the "B" post is to tack the fuzzy draft blocker into place, you should screw into the metal that is just aft of this. Good luck, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2010 7:52 PM To: Triumph Mail List Subject: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels I was able to install the inner wheel well covers on my TR3A this weekend with good results. The next step after installing the rear panel that covers the gas tank, and the rear cappings, is the two side panels. I can see the holes that the finishing screws go into on the body, and the holes on the capings,that line up with these but the interior panels do not have any holes except for the two large holes for the screws to go through that secure the top bow. I thought I could put the screws in and put a touch of paint on the heads (taping them first) and then push the panel in place to mark the location of the holes, then punch through using an awl. Also, I assume that the B post that has the strip of wood also takes some screws, but without the holes in the panel, and none on the wood (I had to replace these as the originals were roted out), I am not sure where these would go. Any thoughts from those that have BTDT on how to get these holes marked correctly so that all line up properely? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Oct 11 05:23:02 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 07:23:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] 20 weight for Carbs In-Reply-To: <320144.8265.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <320144.8265.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201010110723.04508.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday, October 10, 2010 10:54:30 pm William Brewer wrote: > ISTR that the SU carb dampers need 20 weight oil. I've been using ATF > for years. At one time I used some Penrite Oil (or something like that) > that MOSS was selling. The plastic container split and leaked and I never > bought another. Is there another source for 20 weight oil, like at a FLAPS > or maybe a motorcycle shop? Anything wrong with using ATF? > > -Bill in Tehachapi Bill, I have always used ATF. Cars run great. Bob 58 TR3A 63 TR4 72 TR6 with HS6's From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Oct 11 06:44:34 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 08:44:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 B-Post and Seat Back Tacking Strips. In-Reply-To: References: <1177419798.260279.1286761858368.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1990329969.260325.1286761931844.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: What is the consensus on replacing the B-post tacking strip? What came out of mine looked like twisted paper. Scott - you said you used wood. Do you have the dimensions? I was thinking about using (I don't know what it is called) that marine plyboard-like stuff. It is a soft plastic. (may use it for tacking strip at the base of the seats as well). Of course, I haven't gone looking for it yet. Suggestions appreciated.... Carl ----- Original Message ----- > I think you will find it easier to install the rear side panels before you > install the rear panel that covers the tank. What I did was to measure > the > holes and approximate their location on the panel, then using a small hole > cutting knife from my x-acto set I cut the hole through the vinyl and the > padding, this helps to prevent the padding from being wound in the drill > bit > when you drill a pilot hole and then the screw when you put it in. I > know > that I probably missed the original holes but some fraction of an inch but > as long as they were equal on both sides of the car the appearance was not > affected. > > The strip of 'wood' along the "B" post is to tack the fuzzy draft blocker > into place, you should screw into the metal that is just aft of this. > > Good luck, > Bill Beecher > ' > -----Original Message----- > I was able to install the inner wheel well covers on my TR3A this weekend > with good results. The next step after installing the rear panel that > covers > the gas tank, and the rear cappings, is the two side panels. I can see the > holes that the finishing screws go into on the body, and the holes on the > capings,that line up with these but the interior panels do not have any > holes except for the two large holes for the screws to go through that > secure the top bow. I thought I could put the screws in and put a touch of > paint on the heads (taping them first) and then push the panel in place to > mark the location of the holes, then punch through using an awl. Also, I > assume that the B post that has the strip of wood also takes some screws, > but without the holes in the panel, and none on the wood (I had to replace > these as the originals were roted out), I am not sure where these would > go. > Any thoughts from those that have BTDT on how to get these holes marked > correctly so that all line up properely? TIA > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3A From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Mon Oct 11 07:32:57 2010 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 09:32:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Drive to Jekyll Island Message-ID: <28512c.5b5da43d.39e46c09@aol.com> Ned Paulsen (TR3A) and I (TR4A) are leaving Rochester, NY on Friday, headed to Jekyll Island. We'll take I-81 from Harrisburg to Knoxville, TN and the Tail of The Dragon, arriving in JI Monday afternoon. Anyone going our way? Glad to join up with others along the way. Cell phones are: (Me) 585-766-4710 and (Ned) 585-749-4097. George Haynes From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Oct 11 07:57:25 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 08:57:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] 20 weight for Carbs References: <320144.8265.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I use 3-in-1 household oil. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2010 9:54 PM Subject: [TR] 20 weight for Carbs > ISTR that the SU carb dampers need 20 weight oil. I've been using ATF > for years. At one time I used some Penrite Oil (or something like that) > that MOSS was selling. The plastic container split and leaked and I never > bought another. Is there another source for 20 weight oil, like at a FLAPS > or maybe a motorcycle shop? Anything wrong with using ATF? From dave at ranteer.com Mon Oct 11 08:03:28 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 09:03:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re: 20 weight for Carbs In-Reply-To: <06ad01cb68fc$ff16e950$0301a8c0@randall> References: <320144.8265.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <06ad01cb68fc$ff16e950$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <789CF9359BFA4C2BB22DC5C8BD3570C9@ranteer.local> ?motorcycle shops carry 20 weight fork oil . . . -------------------------------------------------- >> Is >> there another source for 20 weight oil, like at a FLAPS > > None of mine seem to carry 20 weight motor oil any more. Kind of looks > like > no one makes it. > >> or >> maybe a motorcycle shop? > > Should still be able to buy 20 weight fork oil, but I haven't actually > tried > recently (yet). Maybe tomorrow. From wbeech at flash.net Mon Oct 11 08:49:38 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 08:49:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 B-Post and Seat Back Tacking Strips. In-Reply-To: References: <1177419798.260279.1286761858368.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1990329969.260325.1286761931844.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <77918B63-C508-4A29-A074-97E0507D45BF@flash.net> Any softer wood should work fine for that application, pine, fir or alder if it were my car. Easy to trim and fit into that slot and will hold those tack firm, there isn't any real stress there. Mobile Bill On Oct 11, 2010, at 6:44 AM, "Carl TR" wrote: > What is the consensus on replacing the B-post tacking strip? What came out of mine looked like twisted paper. > > Scott - you said you used wood. Do you have the dimensions? > > I was thinking about using (I don't know what it is called) that marine plyboard-like stuff. It is a soft plastic. (may use it for tacking strip at the base of the seats as well). Of course, I haven't gone looking for it yet. > > Suggestions appreciated.... > > Carl > > ----- Original Message ----- >> I think you will find it easier to install the rear side panels before you >> install the rear panel that covers the tank. What I did was to measure the >> holes and approximate their location on the panel, then using a small hole >> cutting knife from my x-acto set I cut the hole through the vinyl and the >> padding, this helps to prevent the padding from being wound in the drill bit >> when you drill a pilot hole and then the screw when you put it in. I know >> that I probably missed the original holes but some fraction of an inch but >> as long as they were equal on both sides of the car the appearance was not >> affected. >> >> The strip of 'wood' along the "B" post is to tack the fuzzy draft blocker >> into place, you should screw into the metal that is just aft of this. >> >> Good luck, >> Bill Beecher >> ' >> -----Original Message----- >> I was able to install the inner wheel well covers on my TR3A this weekend >> with good results. The next step after installing the rear panel that covers >> the gas tank, and the rear cappings, is the two side panels. I can see the >> holes that the finishing screws go into on the body, and the holes on the >> capings,that line up with these but the interior panels do not have any >> holes except for the two large holes for the screws to go through that >> secure the top bow. I thought I could put the screws in and put a touch of >> paint on the heads (taping them first) and then push the panel in place to >> mark the location of the holes, then punch through using an awl. Also, I >> assume that the B post that has the strip of wood also takes some screws, >> but without the holes in the panel, and none on the wood (I had to replace >> these as the originals were roted out), I am not sure where these would go. >> Any thoughts from those that have BTDT on how to get these holes marked >> correctly so that all line up properely? TIA >> >> Scott Suhring >> Mechanicsburg, PA >> '70 TR6 >> '59 TR3A > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Mon Oct 11 10:36:24 2010 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 09:36:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <575946.42228.qm@web120519.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I'm considering using Megasquirt FI and Ingnition control to give my car a performance/economy boost. Has anyone here 'been there, done that'? have any advice, suggestions, etc they would like to pass along? TIA Raymond From carlsereda at aol.com Mon Oct 11 10:56:57 2010 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 09:56:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] easy 20wt carb oil In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4B61ADCB.2CE7.45A4.9676.1A813BC4B87E@aol.com> Bill, Red can '3in1' Oil is 10wt, and Blue can '3in1' Oil is 20wt. Not every store carries the Blue can 3in1 Oil (it is recommended for heavier electric motors)- I'd say less than 25% of the hardware stores carry it. But a few do and it is a good cheap option plus comes with the handy spout. Comes in little or medium sized cans too. I used ATF for years but felt I got stronger engine pull with Blue can '3in1' 20wt Oil. Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 On Oct 11, 2010, at 7:49:00 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: ISTR that the SU carb dampers need 20 weight oil. From tfansher at comcast.net Mon Oct 11 12:14:29 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 14:14:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels References: <1177419798.260279.1286761858368.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1990329969.260325.1286761931844.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I've installed two recently and had to lift back the vinyl and trim the gas tank cover to make it fit well. I would install it last also. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; "'Triumph Mail List'" Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 1:27 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels > Scott, > I think you will find it easier to install the rear side panels before you > install the rear panel that covers the tank. What I did was to measure > the > holes and approximate their location on the panel, then using a small hole > cutting knife from my x-acto set I cut the hole through the vinyl and the > padding, this helps to prevent the padding from being wound in the drill > bit > when you drill a pilot hole and then the screw when you put it in. I > know > that I probably missed the original holes but some fraction of an inch but > as long as they were equal on both sides of the car the appearance was not > affected. > > The strip of 'wood' along the "B" post is to tack the fuzzy draft blocker > into place, you should screw into the metal that is just aft of this. > > Good luck, > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > suhringtr36 at comcast.net > Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2010 7:52 PM > To: Triumph Mail List > Subject: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels > > I was able to install the inner wheel well covers on my TR3A this weekend > with good results. The next step after installing the rear panel that > covers > the gas tank, and the rear cappings, is the two side panels. I can see the > holes that the finishing screws go into on the body, and the holes on the > capings,that line up with these but the interior panels do not have any > holes except for the two large holes for the screws to go through that > secure the top bow. I thought I could put the screws in and put a touch of > paint on the heads (taping them first) and then push the panel in place to > mark the location of the holes, then punch through using an awl. Also, I > assume that the B post that has the strip of wood also takes some screws, > but without the holes in the panel, and none on the wood (I had to replace > these as the originals were roted out), I am not sure where these would > go. > Any thoughts from those that have BTDT on how to get these holes marked > correctly so that all line up properely? TIA > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3A From tfansher at comcast.net Mon Oct 11 12:19:46 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 14:19:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 B-Post and Seat Back Tacking Strips. References: <1177419798.260279.1286761858368.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1990329969.260325.1286761931844.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <9BE28EC7B09941BE8E3B1D859EBD1E25@DCS78M81> I had some old wooden dowels that I ground down on the grinder so they would be a snug fit. The Mark Macey's interior installation kit comes with stainless screws and cup washers, even comes with a drill bit 3/32?? but if you were like me buy 3 or 4 more bits, they break.....We just drilled holes pretty close to where the old ones were. I don't think you can hit the old holes with 100% accuracy. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: "'Triumph Mail List'" Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 8:44 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 B-Post and Seat Back Tacking Strips. > What is the consensus on replacing the B-post tacking strip? What came > out of mine looked like twisted paper. > > Scott - you said you used wood. Do you have the dimensions? > > I was thinking about using (I don't know what it is called) that marine > plyboard-like stuff. It is a soft plastic. (may use it for tacking strip > at the base of the seats as well). Of course, I haven't gone looking for > it yet. > > Suggestions appreciated.... > > Carl > > ----- Original Message ----- >> I think you will find it easier to install the rear side panels before >> you >> install the rear panel that covers the tank. What I did was to measure >> the >> holes and approximate their location on the panel, then using a small >> hole >> cutting knife from my x-acto set I cut the hole through the vinyl and the >> padding, this helps to prevent the padding from being wound in the drill >> bit >> when you drill a pilot hole and then the screw when you put it in. I >> know >> that I probably missed the original holes but some fraction of an inch >> but >> as long as they were equal on both sides of the car the appearance was >> not >> affected. >> >> The strip of 'wood' along the "B" post is to tack the fuzzy draft blocker >> into place, you should screw into the metal that is just aft of this. >> >> Good luck, >> Bill Beecher >> ' >> -----Original Message----- >> I was able to install the inner wheel well covers on my TR3A this weekend >> with good results. The next step after installing the rear panel that >> covers >> the gas tank, and the rear cappings, is the two side panels. I can see >> the >> holes that the finishing screws go into on the body, and the holes on the >> capings,that line up with these but the interior panels do not have any >> holes except for the two large holes for the screws to go through that >> secure the top bow. I thought I could put the screws in and put a touch >> of >> paint on the heads (taping them first) and then push the panel in place >> to >> mark the location of the holes, then punch through using an awl. Also, I >> assume that the B post that has the strip of wood also takes some screws, >> but without the holes in the panel, and none on the wood (I had to >> replace >> these as the originals were roted out), I am not sure where these would >> go. >> Any thoughts from those that have BTDT on how to get these holes marked >> correctly so that all line up properely? TIA >> >> Scott Suhring >> Mechanicsburg, PA >> '70 TR6 >> '59 TR3A From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Oct 11 15:00:54 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 17:00:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? In-Reply-To: <575946.42228.qm@web120519.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <575946.42228.qm@web120519.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2E672639A66D440DBA9BF9DE21AA4D3C@BobPC> Hi Raymond............ you don't say what car you have but Rick Patton (http://www.pattonmachine.com/) offers a complete Throttle Body Injection (TBI) system that includes everything you need to fuel inject your Triumph. I've been running his system for almost 4 years now and love it (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TBI.htm). I know of least one guy who bought the carb adapters and TPS from Rick but decided to go the MegaSquirt route rather then use Rick's ECM and tuning. MegaSquirt is very flexible but has a rather steep learning curve, so it isn't for the feint of heart. And you really don't get a performance increase from just adding fuel injection to your car. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Raymond Hatfield" Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 12:36 PM To: Subject: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? > I'm considering using Megasquirt FI and Ingnition control to give my car a > performance/economy boost. Has anyone here 'been there, done that'? have > any advice, suggestions, etc they would like to pass along? > > > TIA > Raymond > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Oct 11 19:53:44 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 01:53:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1756736422.316986.1286848424426.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Thanks Tom: I will change my order of installation. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "THOMAS FANSHER" To: wbeech at flash.net, suhringtr36 at comcast.net, "Triumph Mail List" Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 2:14:29 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels I've installed two recently and had to lift back the vinyl and trim the gas tank cover to make it fit well. I would install it last also. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Oct 11 20:43:46 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 22:43:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Jekyll Island Message-ID: Wow, anybody checked out the weather for Jekyll Island for next week? It looks fantastic. We might never head back to the great white north! Swapping the diff out in the Spity this week and then it's pack up and head south. See you all there. Marty From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Oct 11 22:53:20 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 23:53:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR-3/4/5/6 Aluminum hubs Commercial message Message-ID: <20101012045242.7C85A187669@autox.team.net> uncle jack's racing Aluminum front hubs are going back into production for a limited quantity run. These are a revised design that I've been testing on my TR-4 race car all season. We are using a different set of inner bearings than the prior aluminum hubs used, but they have the same high load rating and are about half of the cost. These hubs eliminate a significant weakness in the stock hubs between the inner and outer flange. They incorporate very high load rating, larger than stock Timken bearings which eliminates the bearing failure issues that are present with stock bearings when using sticky tires. I have been running set with bearings of this load rating from 2003 through 2009 (before running the prototypes this year) and can detect no wear in the bearings. I drive them HARD, and am not afraid to use the curbs. I'm taking pre-orders at this time - no deposits yet. But, please don't pre-order a set if you don't really intend to buy them. This is a very significant investment for me, and I need to gauge the level of interest. Here's how the pricing shakes out (US dollars): A) Bare hubs: $175.00 each / $350.00 per pair B) Hubs with Timken races and ARP studs installed: $280.00 each / $560.00 per pair C) Hubs with all bearings, seals, dust caps and ARP studs installed: $370.00 each / $740.00 per pair For folks who order these hubs, if you already have the heavy duty axle kit, I'll supply a pair of bearing spacers that will work with these hubs for $40 per pair. If you don't already have a set of the Heavy Duty front axles, I'll supply the axle kit along with the hubs for $150 per pair. These are the lowest prices for the axle kits that have been offered. Shipping is a flat $20 in the continental US, $35 to Canada, and other international shipping is probably $50 - at least to Germany or to Australia. The hubs are designed to accept ARP 1/2" x 3" studs, but ARP 7/16" x 3.2" studs can be specified. 7/16" is the stock diameter. If you're interested, please send an e-mail to tony at tonydrews.com with the following info: * Which set you're interested in (A, B or C) * How many hubs are desired (2 would be assumed) * Stud diameter desired * Are spacers needed? Thanks for your interest, Tony Drews tony at tonydrews.com uncle jack's racing From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 12 06:23:35 2010 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 05:23:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? In-Reply-To: <2E672639A66D440DBA9BF9DE21AA4D3C@BobPC> Message-ID: <228749.94147.qm@web120511.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hi Bob, Long time since we spoke last, glad to see you're still here. I'm working on a TR6 engine, and I am aware that FI by itself isn't really a performance boost by itself. I'm wanting to use the FI/EDIS setup to maximize the potential of the other changes I'll be making. Glad you mentioned Rick Patton's setup, I had forgotten about it. I'll look into it. Are there any other setups out there to compare to? Thanks, Raymond --- On Mon, 10/11/10, Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Subject: Re: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? > To: "Raymond Hatfield" , triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Monday, October 11, 2010, 4:00 PM > Hi Raymond............ you don't say > what car you have but Rick Patton (http://www.pattonmachine.com/) offers a complete > Throttle Body Injection (TBI) system that includes > everything you need to fuel inject your Triumph. I've been > running his system for almost 4 years now and love it (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TBI.htm). I know > of least one guy who bought the carb adapters and TPS from > Rick but decided to go the MegaSquirt route rather then use > Rick's ECM and tuning. MegaSquirt is very flexible but > has a rather steep learning curve, so it isn't for the feint > of heart. > > And you really don't get a performance increase from just > adding fuel injection to your car. > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Raymond Hatfield" > Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 12:36 PM > To: > Subject: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? > > > I'm considering using Megasquirt FI and Ingnition > control to give my car a performance/economy boost. Has > anyone here 'been there, done that'? have any advice, > suggestions, etc they would like to pass along? > > > > > > TIA > > Raymond From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Oct 12 07:13:24 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 13:13:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels In-Reply-To: <1756736422.316986.1286848424426.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <963422074.359289.1286889204396.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Just go slowly and don't take it for granted that they are the perfect size. We had to loosen the vinyl at the recesses for the gas tank front mounts for the back panel to remove some of the padding. Also, one of the "wings" didn't quite fit on the outside of the panel, so that had to be trimmed down a little, too. One of my carpet sets had a fininshed edge along the back edge of the rear "seat bottom" and one set (TRF) the back edge wasn't finished so it had to slide under the back panel which required some fitting and trimming of the back panel so that the carpet would slide under the panel AFTER the panel has been screwed down to the rear seat. Does that make sense? So check the carpet set to see which one you have. If you have the finished edge carpet, prefit it also so that you'll know exactly where the seat back should be to make a nice edge where the carpet finishes. Tom Subject: Re: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Panels I've installed two recently and had to lift back the vinyl and trim the gas tank cover to make it fit well. I would install it last also. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From wbeech at flash.net Tue Oct 12 08:10:21 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 08:10:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels In-Reply-To: <963422074.359289.1286889204396.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1756736422.316986.1286848424426.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <963422074.359289.1286889204396.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <12874FA8AF34418B9AF02FB7109CFDBB@bboffice> Must be something going around with the back panels from TRF. After sending my back because it was too wide to fit, I still had to pull back the vinyl and trim it to get it to snugly slide between the side panels. TRF assures me they are using the same guy they always have and he is using the original TR3 patterns. Tom, you are very right, taking your time and pre-fitting everything is the only way to have it all come out right at the end. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tfansher at comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 7:13 AM To: suhringtr36 at comcast.net Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels Just go slowly and don't take it for granted that they are the perfect size. We had to loosen the vinyl at the recesses for the gas tank front mounts for the back panel to remove some of the padding. Also, one of the "wings" didn't quite fit on the outside of the panel, so that had to be trimmed down a little, too. One of my carpet sets had a fininshed edge along the back edge of the rear "seat bottom" and one set (TRF) the back edge wasn't finished so it had to slide under the back panel which required some fitting and trimming of the back panel so that the carpet would slide under the panel AFTER the panel has been screwed down to the rear seat. Does that make sense? So check the carpet set to see which one you have. If you have the finished edge carpet, prefit it also so that you'll know exactly where the seat back should be to make a nice edge where the carpet finishes. Tom Subject: Re: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Panels I've installed two recently and had to lift back the vinyl and trim the gas tank cover to make it fit well. I would install it last also. Tom ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Oct 12 08:46:20 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 14:46:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Installing '59 TR3A Rear interior Pannels In-Reply-To: <963422074.359289.1286889204396.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <182586788.367388.1286894780570.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I just remembered that on the car with the unfinished carpet to the bottom of the rear panel, we fabricated new clips for the bottom of the panel which we attached with rivets to the back panel (have to remove the vinyl to do this) The clip comes down normally then there about an inch of recess in the bracket then it comes forward again to screw into the metal floor. This was on two post 60,000 cars. Nothing was done to the brackets on the car with the finished seam on the carpet where it meets the back panel. Hope this helps. Tom From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 12 11:29:03 2010 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 10:29:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? In-Reply-To: <228749.94147.qm@web120511.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <228749.94147.qm@web120511.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <301330.23752.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com> There are a few I can think of, >From Europe there are both Lumenition and Weber, I think Revington TR carries both. In the US besides Megasquirt it sems that TWM has three neat options, an SU / Zenith throttle body replacement (three would look great on a Goodparts manifold) http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/ThrottleBody-FR.html ... a Weber Throttle body http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/ThrottleBody-FR.html ..and this piece of art http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/tr6_fi.html There may be others NFI in any of the above, or in anything else for that matter.... Hope that helps! Steve ----- Original Message ---- From: Raymond Hatfield To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 7:23:35 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? Hi Bob, Long time since we spoke last, glad to see you're still here. I'm working on a TR6 engine, and I am aware that FI by itself isn't really a performance boost by itself. I'm wanting to use the FI/EDIS setup to maximize the potential of the other changes I'll be making. Glad you mentioned Rick Patton's setup, I had forgotten about it. I'll look into it. Are there any other setups out there to compare to? Thanks, Raymond --- On Mon, 10/11/10, Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Subject: Re: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? > To: "Raymond Hatfield" , triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Monday, October 11, 2010, 4:00 PM > Hi Raymond............ you don't say > what car you have but Rick Patton (http://www.pattonmachine.com/) offers a complete > Throttle Body Injection (TBI) system that includes > everything you need to fuel inject your Triumph. I've been > running his system for almost 4 years now and love it (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TBI.htm). I know > of least one guy who bought the carb adapters and TPS from > Rick but decided to go the MegaSquirt route rather then use > Rick's ECM and tuning. MegaSquirt is very flexible but > has a rather steep learning curve, so it isn't for the feint > of heart. > > And you really don't get a performance increase from just > adding fuel injection to your car. > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Raymond Hatfield" > Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 12:36 PM > To: > Subject: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? > > > I'm considering using Megasquirt FI and Ingnition > control to give my car a performance/economy boost. Has > anyone here 'been there, done that'? have any advice, > suggestions, etc they would like to pass along? > > > > > > TIA > > Raymond _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dogzbody1 at yahoo.com From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 12 12:40:42 2010 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 11:40:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? In-Reply-To: <301330.23752.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <181020.30130.qm@web120505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hi Steve, Thanks for the heads up on these, more food for thought! Raymond --- On Tue, 10/12/10, Steve Smith wrote: > From: Steve Smith > Subject: Re: [TR] Does anyone have experience with? > To: "Raymond Hatfield" , triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Tuesday, October 12, 2010, 12:29 PM > There are a few I can think of, > > From Europe there are both Lumenition and Weber, I think > Revington TR carries > both. > > In the US besides Megasquirt it sems that TWM has three > neat options, > > an SU / Zenith throttle body replacement (three would look > great on a Goodparts > manifold) > > http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/ThrottleBody-FR.html > > ... a Weber Throttle body > > http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/ThrottleBody-FR.html > > ..and this piece of art > > http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/tr6_fi.html > > There may be others > > NFI in any of the above, or in anything else for that > matter.... > > Hope that helps! > Steve From rbtr3a at cox.net Tue Oct 12 12:46:52 2010 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 18:46:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] 2010 VTR NATC J ekyll Island Ga Event Program Message-ID: http://vtr.org/2010program/2010program.pdf Here is the link to the Jekyll Island Event Program for your viewing.. I would like to publicly thank VTR President Blake Discher for all his help in editing and compiling this document. He has put many many hours of his time and energy in assisting me with this task. I know this, for I have been up till 1:30 am sending him content. I would also like to thank Jack McGahey for all of his efforts in writing content and editing the schedule. Jack to has many hours engaged in this document. Jack has worn many hats during this adventure. Last but not least I would like to thank Joe Pawlak, for his commitment us to insure this program is published, printed and delivered in time for you to be able to enjoy it. Please remember these are all volunteers who give up there most precious resource, their time, to make your event successful Ronnie From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Oct 12 15:49:58 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 21:49:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] crank pulley In-Reply-To: <1756736422.316986.1286848424426.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1364208102.357907.1286920198664.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Curious: Timing the engine on the TR3A, I noticed a chunk is missing, broken off. Doesn't seem to affect the ability to turn the belt, though. I know the original fan was balanced. So, my question is, would a piece that's maybe two inches wide by maybe 1 deep, affect crank balance such that it causes much harm? ...At a minimum, can I drive another few weeks before snowfall without damage? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hamsphire From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 12 16:35:59 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 15:35:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] crank pulley In-Reply-To: <1364208102.357907.1286920198664.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1756736422.316986.1286848424426.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1364208102.357907.1286920198664.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <08af01cb6a5d$d84f0070$0301a8c0@randall> > So, my question is, > would a piece that's maybe two inches wide by maybe 1 deep, > affect crank balance such that it causes much harm? ...At a > minimum, can I drive another few weeks before snowfall without damage? Most likely, IMO, it will be OK for a few weeks. But I would plan on replacing both the pulley half (assuming that is where the piece is gone) and the belt before spring. It won't be too long before another chunk breaks off. Randall From trglory at verizon.net Tue Oct 12 18:13:56 2010 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 20:13:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] crank pulley In-Reply-To: <08af01cb6a5d$d84f0070$0301a8c0@randall> References: <1756736422.316986.1286848424426.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1364208102.357907.1286920198664.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <08af01cb6a5d$d84f0070$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <008901cb6a6b$87783c80$9668b580$@net> Seems like there has been a lot of TR3 crank pulley failures this past year. Coincidence, or did we find the threshold for metal fatigue in British steel? Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 6:36 PM To: 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: Re: [TR] crank pulley > So, my question is, > would a piece that's maybe two inches wide by maybe 1 deep, > affect crank balance such that it causes much harm? ...At a > minimum, can I drive another few weeks before snowfall without damage? Most likely, IMO, it will be OK for a few weeks. But I would plan on replacing both the pulley half (assuming that is where the piece is gone) and the belt before spring. It won't be too long before another chunk breaks off. Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Oct 12 18:14:35 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 20:14:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] crank pulley In-Reply-To: <1364208102.357907.1286920198664.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1364208102.357907.1286920198664.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <201010122014.35869.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday, October 12, 2010 05:49:58 pm terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Curious: Timing the engine on the TR3A, I noticed a chunk is missing, > broken off. Doesn't seem to affect the ability to turn the belt, though. > > I know the original fan was balanced. So, my question is, would a piece > that's maybe two inches wide by maybe 1 deep, affect crank balance such > that it causes much harm? ...At a minimum, can I drive another few weeks > before snowfall without damage? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hamsphire > Terry, About 2 months ago, I posted a similar query but not to ask if it was ok to run the engine with the piece missing but what caused the failure. I was driving about 60 and I heard a metal clank and then about 5 seconds later my temp gauge was pinned. Turned out after the piece was thrown off the belt followed! I was able to drive home (very slow) after waiting for the engine to cool off and slipping the belt back on but I replaced the pulley front and back the following weekend. On a 4 it was a 3 hour job. On a 3, you will have to pull the front apron. On further examination of the inside pulley half, I noticed the crack to extend another 1.5 inches along the inner diameter. The piece I lost was 2.5 inches and believe it or not it landed on the frame and stayed there all the way home, over 15 miles! If it was me, I wouldn't drive the car another foot. If this ever happens again on either my 3 or 4, I will replace the stock pulley with the Moss version and install the electric fan. Bob From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Oct 12 19:11:53 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 18:11:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] crank pulley In-Reply-To: <008901cb6a6b$87783c80$9668b580$@net> References: <1756736422.316986.1286848424426.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1364208102.357907.1286920198664.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <08af01cb6a5d$d84f0070$0301a8c0@randall> <008901cb6a6b$87783c80$9668b580$@net> Message-ID: On 10/12/10, Joe Laurito wrote: > Seems like there has been a lot of TR3 crank pulley failures this past year. > Coincidence, or did we find the threshold for metal fatigue in British > steel? I seem to be exploring that threshold for British aluminum: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Fan%20x%202.JPG One was 2 years ago this month, the other was last Saturday (same TR4). At least #2 didn't make a dent in the bonnet. Geo From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Oct 12 19:14:56 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 21:14:56 EDT Subject: [TR] crank pulley Message-ID: <3ba75.66174375.39e66210@aol.com> Hi all; I take the middle ground here. My opinion is that, as Randall says, the pulley's likely to last for the remainder of your driving season. As Bob suggests, it could suddenly get worse and then it could easily lead to catastrophic failure. Because I love driving my car so much, I'd probably keep going until the end of the season, knowing something dramatic might happen and being ready for the potential of vast expense and inconvenience. If you're more of a "do it by the book" guy, maybe more into preservation than driving it for today, then parking it would be the right option. As for Bob's comment on an electric fan: While the front apron was off to renew the rattly timing chain, I had the radiator recored with a thicker core & no starting handle hole, fitted the Moss TR6 fan conversion and installed a BPNW uprated water pump. The result is amazing; no more cooling issues at all. And no electrical connections to go wrong on the way to the fan....Just my opinion! Tim From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Oct 13 06:48:43 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 05:48:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Upgrade Message-ID: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Well, my TR3 is now my daily driver. My cheap old headlamps put out a weak yellow-ish light. I was thinking that I should upgrade the headlamp lighting. What is the best headlamp upgrade where I don't have to make a new wiring harness? What wiring harness upgrades are already out there? What are other listers happy with? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed Oct 13 07:32:51 2010 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 09:32:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Upgrade References: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bill - Before you start replacing sealed beam bulbs, make sure that there is a good ground connection on each headlight. From the ground terminal of the bulb to the grounded side of the battery, there should be no more than around 0.2 volts difference when the lights are on.. If there is, then check out the integrity of the headlamp ground circuit. Depending on where the battery ground terminal is connected, there may be a bad body-to-engine ground connection. Conversely, check out the voltage drop along the battery insulated circuit. From the battery insulated terminal to the feed terminal of each sealed beam bulb, there should only be a few tenths of a volt drop when the headlamps are on. Check both low and high beams on each bulb. Possible areas causing a voltage drop include the fuse box, light switch, and all other connections. Another method is to turn the lights on, and then provide an auxiliary feed wire from the battery to each lamp feed terminal - if they brighten up, the insulated circuit is weak. Do the same with the ground circuit. Make sure that your auxiliary ground wire goes directly to the battery. Brighter lights means a weak ground circuit. I would start with testing the existing feed and ground systems. If they are weak, fancier and higher wattage bulbs may cause even more voltage drop due the extra amperage draw. Alex Thomson ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 8:48 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Upgrade > Well, my TR3 is now my daily driver. My cheap old headlamps put out a > weak yellow-ish light. I was thinking that I should upgrade the headlamp > lighting. > What is the best headlamp upgrade where I don't have to make a new > wiring harness? > What wiring harness upgrades are already out there? > What are other listers happy with? > TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From rawanderer at comcast.net Wed Oct 13 08:29:33 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 14:29:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Upgrade In-Reply-To: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2053549174.434768.1286980173775.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> An assembled wiring harness with relays is obtainable from Advanced Autowire (as of a year or so ago, it was $75 ppd), Moss (well over $100, then add s&h, and it is just parts so assembly is required), and Victoria British (believe already assembled for $25 plus s&h). I have the Advanced Autowire version and am very happy with it. Your headlamp switch(es) only activate the relays so there is a maximum of only 500 milliamps through the switch(es) instead of the full current drawn by the headlamps. The wires to the headlamps on the AAW model are thicker than stock, further reducing the voltage drop (current x resistance) through them. I assume Moss and VB also have heavier gauge wires from the relays to the heamlamp connectors. If you want to stick with sealed beam incandescents, fine; but I would recommend halogens. Moss sells Hella halogens (separate bulb), which I have and like. If I was doing it over again, however, I probably would go with sealed beam halogens such as the Sylvania Silverstars. They have a 7" round version (H6024 if memory serves). I think one runs about $20 at Pep Boys. Additionally, make sure your grounds are good, and clean or replace the headlamp switch(es). BobW 1974 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 8:48:43 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Upgrade Well, my TR3 is now my daily driver. My cheap old headlamps put out a weak yellow-ish light. I was thinking that I should upgrade the headlamp lighting. What is the best headlamp upgrade where I don't have to make a new wiring harness? What wiring harness upgrades are already out there? What are other listers happy with? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 13 09:23:49 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 08:23:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Upgrade In-Reply-To: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <09ec01cb6aea$a3521c30$0301a8c0@randall> > What is the best headlamp upgrade where I don't have to > make a new wiring harness? First, punt the stock tungsten sealed beams and install a pair of quartz-halogen bulbs. Then if you want to keep all original wiring, go over it with a voltmeter while the headlights are on, and make sure they are getting every last volt. Chances are that the wires themselves are fine, it's the connections that typically develop some resistance and limit current/voltage delivered to the bulbs. > What are other listers happy with? On my previous car, I used a purpose-made relay (actually two relays in a metal box), screwed to the firewall. The original high/low beam wires were re-routed to the box, and new wires added to bring power to the box and carry it to all 4 headlight beams. I also used 60/100 watt H4 bulbs (and had a 60 amp alternator to back them up). Those high beams would light up the night like you wouldn't believe! The relay box is visible in this (old) shot: http://tinyurl.com/2336n5v The only problems were all the exposed wires (which didn't bother me at the time, but might bother you); and the fact that the relay box incorporated a single fuse for each relay. Coming down a mountain road into Durango, CO on a moonless night, driving rather too fast for conditions (as I frequently do), the fuse popped! Fortunately, all I had to do was think to hit the high beam switch to get some lights back, but it was definitely a heart-stopping moment. So this time around, I am using a separate relay for each filament, and a separate circuit breaker for each side (so if a CB pops, there will still be a headlight working). To reduce the number of new wires visible, I am mounting the relays to the back of the headlight bucket: http://tinyurl.com/3yzdl9b This results in only one new wire to each headlight from the circuit breakers (which I think I will mount under the dash, out of sight). Although they really should have tracers of some sort, purple is the correct color code for a protected (fused) wire that is always hot and I just happen to have a roll of purple 12 AWG "machine tool" wire. (Using the relay sockets was a bad idea; awkward to wire and you can see where I managed to partially melt one while setting the heat shrink tubing. Next time I'll just use individual quick connects.) Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 13 09:37:26 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 08:37:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Upgrade In-Reply-To: <2053549174.434768.1286980173775.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <2053549174.434768.1286980173775.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <09ed01cb6aec$89d0cde0$0301a8c0@randall> > If I was doing it > over again, however, I probably would go with sealed beam > halogens such as the Sylvania Silverstars. FWIW, I've tried the Silverstars and was very disappointed with them. They are better than tungstens, but not by much IMO, and they seem to burn out much quicker. The H4s are worth the money, if you want to actually see where you are going. This photo doesn't really do them justice, but perhaps you can get some idea of the advantage of quality H4 bulbs. (The cheap ones from flea-bay were also a disappointment.) This was my 71 Stag, with standard tungsten bulb on the right and a new Cibie/Valeo lamp on the left, using a standard 55/60 H4 bulb. Wiring was totally stock, the engine was not running. http://tinyurl.com/2bm5hxg The part I couldn't really capture is how much whiter and brighter the H4 looks to the eye, but hopefully you can see how much bigger the "hot spot" is, and how more of it is deflected down onto the road. The beam pattern also 'kicks up' to the right, to better light signs and pedestrians along the side of the road, without blinding other drivers on the road. Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Oct 13 10:51:02 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 09:51:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Upgrade In-Reply-To: <09ed01cb6aec$89d0cde0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <2053549174.434768.1286980173775.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <09ed01cb6aec$89d0cde0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: I put these on the TR4 and though I have done only limited night driving they appear to be an improvement: http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=0301600118 Seemed a pretty good deal at $45 for a pair. As noted, they are motorcycle headlamps though the pattern seems well-suited to the TR (more light to the right & up). I also added a pair of relays to take the load off the headlamp switch but am running a stock TR4 generator. http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/HeadlampRelays.JPG Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Oct 13 11:08:12 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 10:08:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Balance Weights, Fan & Hub -- TR4 Message-ID: I'm replacing my fan and there were 2 weights previously in place to balance the fan and hub/extension assembly. I realize that the factory way to do this is to remove the hub/extension and balance it as a unit with the fan -- I truly hope this is not necessary for a non-race engine. The weights were both mounted to one side of the unit -- i.e. 2 weights under one set of bolts, none under the other. I can tell this is original by the reference hole that had been drilled thru the weights, fan and into the hub/extension. That is quite a bit of weight to ignore, so.... My question -- do you suppose that the weights were mainly there to correct an inbalance in the hub/extension, or in the fan? I can pretty well balance the fan by itself off the engine by rigging up a little hub that allows it to free-wheel -- though the fan seems really well balanced from the get-go. If the weights were there mainly to balance the hub/extension I can re-install them as before. I guess you can tell I'm trying to simplify the task and not remove the crank bolt and hub/extension when all I want to do is replace the fan -- but if I have to I have to. BTW -- I briefly considered a plastic fan but as the car is mostly original and correct I decided against that. I will be installing a metal tropical fan (if that makes any difference) for better air flow and because the relatively shorter aluminum blade seems less likely to break. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Oct 13 11:21:27 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 13:21:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable In-Reply-To: <09ec01cb6aea$a3521c30$0301a8c0@randall> References: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <09ec01cb6aea$a3521c30$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <783EC41B6A094F00BB9291AD07609B23@CarlPC> In the pile of parts I have an angle drive for the speedometer cable. It was not standard on the TR3 (A-type overdrive). Is there any advantage/disadvantage to using one? My viewpoint: Advantage: No 'major' curve in the cable Disadvantage: Not original; larger (maybe) piece sitting under the handbrake boot. What is the consensus of triumphazzi? Carl TS81802LO - Getting closer and closer but probably won't make it (in the TR) to Jekyll Island. From wbeech at flash.net Wed Oct 13 11:34:51 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 11:34:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] Balance Weights, Fan & Hub -- TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2CCE4CE89A744D0EB11B18922B69072F@bboffice> Geo, If the weights are on there from the factory and the fan itself is well-balanced, I would put them back on. However, if I was already that far into the car I would probably pull the hub and check it out. It does seem odd that a hub would be very far out of balance and even if it were that taking a little meat off the heavy side might be the better way to bring it back to true. BTW, I have the Triumph 6-blade tropical fan on my TR3 and it really put out the breeze as compare to the stock 4-blade unit, you will like it. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 11:08 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Balance Weights, Fan & Hub -- TR4 I'm replacing my fan and there were 2 weights previously in place to balance the fan and hub/extension assembly. I realize that the factory way to do this is to remove the hub/extension and balance it as a unit with the fan -- I truly hope this is not necessary for a non-race engine. The weights were both mounted to one side of the unit -- i.e. 2 weights under one set of bolts, none under the other. I can tell this is original by the reference hole that had been drilled thru the weights, fan and into the hub/extension. That is quite a bit of weight to ignore, so.... My question -- do you suppose that the weights were mainly there to correct an inbalance in the hub/extension, or in the fan? I can pretty well balance the fan by itself off the engine by rigging up a little hub that allows it to free-wheel -- though the fan seems really well balanced from the get-go. If the weights were there mainly to balance the hub/extension I can re-install them as before. I guess you can tell I'm trying to simplify the task and not remove the crank bolt and hub/extension when all I want to do is replace the fan -- but if I have to I have to. BTW -- I briefly considered a plastic fan but as the car is mostly original and correct I decided against that. I will be installing a metal tropical fan (if that makes any difference) for better air flow and because the relatively shorter aluminum blade seems less likely to break. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 13 11:42:15 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 13:42:15 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable Message-ID: <1fa56.66e9284.39e74977@cs.com> In a message dated 10/13/2010 12:21:45 PM Central Daylight Time, cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: > In the pile of parts I have an angle drive for the speedometer cable. > > It was not standard on the TR3 (A-type overdrive). > > Is there any advantage/disadvantage to using one? > My viewpoint: > Advantage: No 'major' curve in the cable > Disadvantage: Not original; larger (maybe) piece sitting under > the > handbrake boot. > > What is the consensus of triumphazzi? > Concessus? Ha! Seriously, another possible disadvantage is that the angel drive doesn't fit under the transmission cover. I don't know one way or the other but maybe you could check it out and educate the rest of us. Dave PS: See you in Jekyll. Remember not to heckle when you are there. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Oct 13 11:54:05 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 13:54:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable In-Reply-To: <1fa56.66e9284.39e74977@cs.com> References: <1fa56.66e9284.39e74977@cs.com> Message-ID: Heckle? ... I'm going to be a like a sponge... absorb it all. That way I won't have any reason not to have a 400pt car! (hah!) I put the tranny cover in place and the drive looks like it would fit in the handbrake boot (didn't put it on yet). Like you said - guess I'll just have to try it. Will be an easy change out. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 1:42 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable > In a message dated 10/13/2010 12:21:45 PM Central Daylight Time, > cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: >> In the pile of parts I have an angle drive for the speedometer cable. >> >> It was not standard on the TR3 (A-type overdrive). >> >> Is there any advantage/disadvantage to using one? >> My viewpoint: >> Advantage: No 'major' curve in the cable >> Disadvantage: Not original; larger (maybe) piece sitting under >> the >> handbrake boot. >> >> What is the consensus of triumphazzi? >> > > Concessus? Ha! > > Seriously, another possible disadvantage is that the angel drive doesn't > fit under the transmission cover. I don't know one way or the other but > maybe > you could check it out and educate the rest of us. > > Dave > > PS: See you in Jekyll. Remember not to heckle when you are there. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 13 12:09:05 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 14:09:05 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable Message-ID: <64274.3825106b.39e74fc1@cs.com> In a message dated 10/13/2010 12:54:09 PM Central Daylight Time, cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: > Heckle? ... I'm going to be a like a sponge... absorb it all. That way > I > won't have any reason not to have a 400pt car! (hah!) > > I put the tranny cover in place and the drive looks like it would fit in > the > handbrake boot (didn't put it on yet). Like you said - guess I'll just > have to try it. Will be an easy change out. > > The plastic cover for the TR4-6 has a bump to clear the drive. And being plastic a slight rub presents no problem anyway. But the TR3 cover is another story. Thanks for the feedback. Dave From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Oct 13 12:11:31 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 14:11:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable In-Reply-To: <1fa56.66e9284.39e74977@cs.com> References: <1fa56.66e9284.39e74977@cs.com> Message-ID: <8CD39193264D1C0-125C-6D52@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com Seriously, another possible disadvantage is that the angel drive doesn't fit under the transmission cover. ==AM== True. An "angel" drive would more likely hover over the transmission cover, guarding against evil, errant fluif, etc. ... :-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From tfansher at comcast.net Wed Oct 13 12:49:49 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 14:49:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable References: <1fa56.66e9284.39e74977@cs.com> Message-ID: <84511D187D8645B69453E7ECCA4D495E@DCS78M81> I have an angle drive and didn't need it for either of the 3's. A nice gentle curve and all works well. Just my two cents worth. Can be discussed at Jekyll as well. Tom From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Oct 13 12:56:34 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 11:56:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable In-Reply-To: <783EC41B6A094F00BB9291AD07609B23@CarlPC> References: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <09ec01cb6aea$a3521c30$0301a8c0@randall> <783EC41B6A094F00BB9291AD07609B23@CarlPC> Message-ID: On 10/13/10, Carl TR wrote: > > Is there any advantage/disadvantage to using one? My Father-in-Law always distrusted automatic transmissions, air conditioning, 4-wheel drive, power steering, power brakes, etc -- his theory: 'It's just one more thing to go wrong'. Geo From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 13 13:37:40 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 12:37:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable In-Reply-To: <783EC41B6A094F00BB9291AD07609B23@CarlPC> References: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><09ec01cb6aea$a3521c30$0301a8c0@randall> <783EC41B6A094F00BB9291AD07609B23@CarlPC> Message-ID: <0a5501cb6b0e$19bde2a0$0301a8c0@randall> > What is the consensus of triumphazzi? Not the consensus, just my opinion : It's an expensive, delicate, failure-prone piece. I've covered well over 100,000 miles with that "major curve" as you call it (which is actually gentler than the other curves in the cable) and never had a cable fail. Didn't even bother replacing it when I moved the OD to the 'project' TR3. But I had gone less than 50 miles in the Stag, before it's _freshly replaced_ angle drive died. It's definitely a de-improvement in my book. Unfortunately the Stag body (like the other later Triumphs) makes it impossible to connect the cable without using the angle drive. Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Oct 13 13:38:30 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 15:38:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable In-Reply-To: References: <1fa56.66e9284.39e74977@cs.com> Message-ID: <132DDA8C029D4088805460F89FE08F7E@CarlPC> Actually - it does look like a consensus... Not necessary and perhaps problematic. Thanks all. Carl From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 13 13:41:20 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 12:41:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Balance Weights, Fan & Hub -- TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0a5601cb6b0e$9cd351c0$0301a8c0@randall> > I guess you can tell I'm trying to simplify the task and not remove > the crank bolt and hub/extension when all I want to do is replace the > fan -- but if I have to I have to. FWIW, that's what I did when installing my fan. It really isn't that hard (and besides I wanted to change the front seal and check the timing chain tensioner). Best I could tell, my fan & hub were fine with no weights at all, which may explain why there were none there before. Or it may be that my HF balancing setup was not sufficiently sensitive. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 13 13:59:39 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 15:59:39 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable Message-ID: <6b9f4.2eb75899.39e769ab@cs.com> In a message dated 10/13/2010 1:11:57 PM Central Daylight Time, zoboherald at aol.com writes: > -----Original Message----- > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > > Seriously, another possible disadvantage is that the angel drive > doesn't > fit under the transmission cover. > > ==AM== > True. An "angel" drive would more likely hover over the transmission > cover, guarding against evil, errant fluif, etc. ... > > :-) > > Well, you know that it is only divine intervention that keeps some of our cars on the road. ;-) Dave From pebarnes71 at gmail.com Wed Oct 13 16:17:50 2010 From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 06:17:50 +0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp Upgrade In-Reply-To: <09ed01cb6aec$89d0cde0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <2053549174.434768.1286980173775.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <09ed01cb6aec$89d0cde0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Just to summarize the discussion, upgrading headlights has no downside. The improvement in vision and safety by using a good H4 conversion such as Hella or Cibie is startling. It's like looking through a good pair of binoculars for the first time. If you want to upgrade wiring at the same time, it's not too hard, but in my experience not absolutely required. On Wed, Oct 13, 2010 at 11:37 PM, Randall wrote: > The H4s are worth the money, if you want to actually see where you are > going. > This photo doesn't really do them justice, but perhaps you can get some > idea of the advantage of quality H4 bulbs. http://tinyurl.com/2bm5hxg > The beam pattern also 'kicks up' to the right, to better light signs and pedestrians along the side of the road, without blinding other drivers on the road. Ah, E-code lamps, very nice. --Phil Barnes, '71 TR6 since 1977 From pebarnes71 at gmail.com Wed Oct 13 16:31:59 2010 From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 06:31:59 +0800 Subject: [TR] notes from the East Message-ID: Just in case anyone has been wondering, British cars are pretty scarce in Taiwan. I've been here for three weeks now and seen one Mini (a real Mini, not the BMW Mini). When I was here in April, I saw a Mini parked on the street. There are more Alfa Romeos, oddly. I saw two yesterday. My co-worker owns a 2002 Alfa 156. I now know why those of you in Florida don't drive your cars in the summer; it's too stinkin' hot. Temps here are still in the upper 80's to 90ish everyday and dewpoint never falls below 72F. --Phil Barnes, '71 TR6 since 1977 From spitlist at cox.net Wed Oct 13 16:36:26 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 15:36:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] notes from the East In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20101013223614.SFIO23084.fed1rmmtao103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> Phil, They mostly have been scraped and recycled as cheap electronics. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Philip Barnes Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 3:32 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] notes from the East Just in case anyone has been wondering, British cars are pretty scarce in Taiwan. I've been here for three weeks now and seen one Mini (a real Mini, not the BMW Mini). When I was here in April, I saw a Mini parked on the street. There are more Alfa Romeos, oddly. I saw two yesterday. My co-worker owns a 2002 Alfa 156. I now know why those of you in Florida don't drive your cars in the summer; it's too stinkin' hot. Temps here are still in the upper 80's to 90ish everyday and dewpoint never falls below 72F. --Phil Barnes, '71 TR6 since 1977 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Oct 13 17:15:31 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 19:15:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Still has an Issue Message-ID: <7716e.e6f6413.39e79793@aol.com> Hey Guys, I spent some shop time on the Six. The mystery miss is gone once I changed the plugs to Champions, reset the point gap and advanced the timing a bit. The miss may come back once the new plugs are burnt in, I don't know. The woodpecker metal like tapping came out of the right rear suspension once I greased the urethane trailing arm bushings, renewed the spring rubber packings and replaced the shock links. Now I have the last issue to deal with. Every now and then the right rear will make a very bad noise when taking up the drive in reverse or around corners. This is more than a clunk. It is like a gear slipping with the resulting lurch. I suspect a bad bearing but who's to know? Any comments? Decision time is now. The Featured Marque Six to Jekyll Island or the GT6. The GT6 has no issues as of now. I am trailering so not to worry but the GT6 was the only Triumph to leave me on the side of the road lately when it snapped a u-joint in half. I don't like to work on cars at a National Convention. Although it is a great time to do that since all the experts are there and anyone with a bonnet up and tools out draws a big crowd. The Six is a pig at autocross with the redlines the GT6 may have potential. Whatever, I would like to resolve this crunching noise in the TR6 rear. Any thoughts on that would be appreciated. Thanks, Darrell From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Oct 13 20:22:47 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 19:22:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Hard Top Installation & Insulation Message-ID: <540329.59981.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I've decided that after 18 years of TR3A ownership that it is time to restore & install the original factory steel hard Top. I've got the top, all the brackets, a new back window, new seals and a new headliner. I would like to insulate the top to help keep me warmer in the winter and cooler on warm days. Most of the foil backed insulation I find looks like it might be too thick and difficult to make look right around the rear window seal. Have any other listers insulated their TR3 hard tops? What did you use and how did it turn out? Are there any caveats or suggestions for restoring the hard top? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Wed Oct 13 21:02:43 2010 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 23:02:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Jekyll Island In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <976ED99A-13CF-430D-A2D7-654635D5B6EF@blakedischer.com> On Oct 11, 2010, at 10:43 PM, marty sukey wrote: Wow, anybody checked out the weather for Jekyll Island for next week? It looks fantastic. We might never head back to the great white north! Yep Marty, Monday's weather for Jekyll Island is supposed to be sunny and 79 degrees, perfect for a photography workshop at the VTR convention. From 9:30am to 11:30am on Monday I'll lead a Tech Session on car photography. We'll head out in our cars to somewhere nice on the island and I'll share some tips on how to photograph a car. If you're coming, bring a camera and ideally a telephoto lens. It should be a fun time. Cheers, From lee at automate-it.com Wed Oct 13 21:34:32 2010 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 22:34:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Still has an Issue In-Reply-To: <7716e.e6f6413.39e79793@aol.com> References: <7716e.e6f6413.39e79793@aol.com> Message-ID: <30c106f56126e8b71f1445a678c733d9.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> > Now I have the last issue to deal with. Every now and then the right rear > will make a very bad noise when taking up the drive in reverse or around > corners. This is more than a clunk. I've battled a similar noise. The diff mounts are all good, I have new wheel bearings, the u-joints are all tight. Now I'm left with *maybe* a little too much play in the diff, but I think the real problem is the splines on the axles. I had a set on another car that had very little play, but on this car (and on the spare set of axles I have) I can grab either side of the splined joint and get a fair amount of play. There doesn't seem to be an easy fix short of replacing the axles. GoodParts has a very nice replacement set of axles - you can get either original style (but heavy duty) or go with CV joints, but the set will run ~$1500 or more. What I'd *really* like is to just go whole hog with his Nissan limited-slip, but this requires another >$1000. If you've ever had your splined axles bind up under torque, then release, you know what fun it is! - Lee From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Oct 14 06:54:26 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 08:54:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Still has an Issue In-Reply-To: <30c106f56126e8b71f1445a678c733d9.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <7716e.e6f6413.39e79793@aol.com> <30c106f56126e8b71f1445a678c733d9.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: <03280673006D4D73B7A9CE9BF61EAE59@BobPC> I too battled clunks and clicks and finally got rid of it all 3 easy but $$$$ steps: 1. Installed the Nissan diff (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffMain.htm) and boxed in the diff mounts. That got rid of the clunks and leaks but now I had a clicking that I traced back to worn splines on the axles. 2. In prep for #3, I first repaired all the TA studs using Rick Patton's TA Repair Kit (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TAJig.htm) 3. I was all set to buy Goodparts upgraded hubs when he told me he was all set to release his new CVJs which I got and installed (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CVJ.htm) So now I have a smooth quiet diff that doesn't leak, TA studs that will never strip and CVJs that are quiet, smooth and new...... no need to worry about a rear hub breaking. I'm not a fan of rebuilding 35 year old hubs. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Lee Daniels" Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 11:34 PM To: Cc: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Still has an Issue >> Now I have the last issue to deal with. Every now and then the right >> rear >> will make a very bad noise when taking up the drive in reverse or around >> corners. This is more than a clunk. > > I've battled a similar noise. The diff mounts are all good, I have new > wheel > bearings, the u-joints are all tight. Now I'm left with *maybe* a little > too > much play in the diff, but I think the real problem is the splines on the > axles. I had a set on another car that had very little play, but on this > car > (and on the spare set of axles I have) I can grab either side of the > splined > joint and get a fair amount of play. There doesn't seem to be an easy fix > short of replacing the axles. GoodParts has a very nice replacement set of > axles - you can get either original style (but heavy duty) or go with CV > joints, but the set will run ~$1500 or more. What I'd *really* like is to > just > go whole hog with his Nissan limited-slip, but this requires another > >$1000. > > If you've ever had your splined axles bind up under torque, then release, > you > know what fun it is! > > - Lee > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From eoot at citlink.net Thu Oct 14 09:27:26 2010 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 11:27:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Jekyll Island or bust Message-ID: <3FAB19F059EA40CF981B47B3D59E8FF1@Office> Hope there won't be any busting involved. Ready to set out tomorrow morning in the 3. Longest single trip we have made in it to date,,,about 800 miles 1 way. I avoid I-81 and I-95 like the plague when driving the 3, so as a result have mapped out a non interstate route that should be quite an adventure. Looking really forward to the whole thing. The event, the venue, and weather all look fantastic. The boot is full of tools and parts and we're ready to go. See you there (power of positive thinking) Ed ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16080) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 14 10:16:01 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 09:16:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Jekyll Island or bust In-Reply-To: <3FAB19F059EA40CF981B47B3D59E8FF1@Office> References: <3FAB19F059EA40CF981B47B3D59E8FF1@Office> Message-ID: <0bec01cb6bbb$1dfb3590$0301a8c0@randall> > Hope there won't be any busting involved. Indeed, be careful folks! We've lost two beautiful Triumphs in just the past two months here on the west coast; one of them on the way to TRfest. Just keep in mind that you are invisible to the average driver; and they may try to move into where you are at any moment. As prof Moody said, "Constant Vigilance !!" Randall From dlylis at gmail.com Thu Oct 14 11:07:09 2010 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 17:07:09 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable In-Reply-To: <0a5501cb6b0e$19bde2a0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><09ec01cb6aea$a3521c30$0301a8c0@randall><783EC41B6A094F00BB9291AD07609B23@CarlPC><0a5501cb6b0e$19bde2a0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: I put a J type in my 3A and used the angle drive. I got precisely 72 miles as evidenced by the zeroed out odometer, before the thing failed. A good quality part. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Randall" Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 12:37:40 To: 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Speedo cable > What is the consensus of triumphazzi? Not the consensus, just my opinion : It's an expensive, delicate, failure-prone piece. I've covered well over 100,000 miles with that "major curve" as you call it (which is actually gentler than the other curves in the cable) and never had a cable fail. Didn't even bother replacing it when I moved the OD to the 'project' TR3. But I had gone less than 50 miles in the Stag, before it's _freshly replaced_ angle drive died. It's definitely a de-improvement in my book. Unfortunately the Stag body (like the other later Triumphs) makes it impossible to connect the cable without using the angle drive. Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com From eoot at citlink.net Thu Oct 14 11:20:24 2010 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 13:20:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Jekyll Island or bust References: <3FAB19F059EA40CF981B47B3D59E8FF1@Office> <0bec01cb6bbb$1dfb3590$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <5681C8DAE43C4E548E492E4AAA2568E3@Office> Good advice Randall. I'm used to doing that after years of motorcycle driving. The invisibility is another reason I avoid the interstates as much as possible. Not to mention, it's off the interstates that one can better experience this remarkable country. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 12:16 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Jekyll Island or bust >> Hope there won't be any busting involved. > > Indeed, be careful folks! We've lost two beautiful Triumphs in just the > past two months here on the west coast; one of them on the way to TRfest. > > Just keep in mind that you are invisible to the average driver; and they > may > try to move into where you are at any moment. As prof Moody said, > "Constant > Vigilance !!" > > Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net > > > > > > ======= > Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. > (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16080) > http://www.pctools.com/ > ======= ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16080) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From dave at ranteer.com Thu Oct 14 12:58:04 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 13:58:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re: TR3 Speedo cable In-Reply-To: <20101014171137.D494018765A@autox.team.net> References: <221105.25851.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><09ec01cb6aea$a3521c30$0301a8c0@randall><783EC41B6A094F00BB9291AD07609B23@CarlPC><0a5501cb6b0e$19bde2a0$0301a8c0@randall> <20101014171137.D494018765A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <731C59496DBD4438A0FD37D7FA54775C@ranteer.local> ?I, too had an angle drive go bad after not too long. unfortunately, unless I'm mistaken, you have to have one it a tr6 od From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Oct 14 14:12:03 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 16:12:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Jekyll Island or bust In-Reply-To: <5681C8DAE43C4E548E492E4AAA2568E3@Office> References: <3FAB19F059EA40CF981B47B3D59E8FF1@Office> <0bec01cb6bbb$1dfb3590$0301a8c0@randall> <5681C8DAE43C4E548E492E4AAA2568E3@Office> Message-ID: It's funny you say that. I find myself in motorcycle mode when I drive my tr4 as well. I still remember SIPDE from my motorcycle safety course -- scan, identify, predict, decide, execute. I think this helps me avoid many potential problems and when it doesn't - it pays to have a solution in mind - it's amazing how much faster you can react. Good luck on your trip. I'm jealous already. Chris On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Ed Oot wrote: > Good advice Randall. I'm used to doing that after years of motorcycle > driving. The invisibility is another reason I avoid the interstates as much > as possible. Not to mention, it's off the interstates that one can better > experience this remarkable country. > > Ed From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Oct 14 14:42:05 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 16:42:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Jekyll Island or bust In-Reply-To: References: <3FAB19F059EA40CF981B47B3D59E8FF1@Office><0bec01cb6bbb$1dfb3590$0301a8c0@randall><5681C8DAE43C4E548E492E4AAA2568E3@Office> Message-ID: <8CD39F765EA8D55-125C-1DFB0@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simo I still remember SIPDE from my motorcycle safety course -- scan, identify, predict, decide, execute. I think this helps me avoid many potential problems and when it doesn't - it pays to have a solution in mind - it's amazing how much faster you can react. ==AM== Chris, you bring back memories of my college days, when I took all the available courses to be able to teach driver education. (I never became a teacher otherwise, so I never taught driver ed. in a school, but I did teach commercially for awhile.) Dr. Richard Ellis (my professor) had, by the mid-1970s, modified the original IPDE -- identify, predict, decide, execute -- into SIPDCE: Sense, Identify, Predict, Decide, COMMUNICATE and Execute. He was especially big on the COMMUNICATE part (and no, not with single-digit hand gestures, but primarily with directional signals, tap of the horn and the like)! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From emanteno at comcast.net Thu Oct 14 19:13:21 2010 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 20:13:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ride needed Jacksonville to VTR Message-ID: Good evening, I am driving the TR6 from suburban Chicago to Jekyll Island this weekend, while my better 9/10ths will be flying to Jacksonville to attend a family wedding. If one of you Florida guys is driving via Jacksonville on Sunday, and are willing to TRansport her to the Jekyll Island Club Hotel, please contact me off list. THANKS, Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From Cairnsbk at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 15 12:17:00 2010 From: Cairnsbk at sbcglobal.net (Dr. Bruce Cairns) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 11:17:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Floppy sun visor Message-ID: Whilst motoring about with the top down, the passenger-side sun visor on my '74 TR6 steadfastly refuses to remain in the flipped-up orientation. I have replaced the visor and rubber retaining chock, wrapped the end of the visor rod with gaffer's tape, attached velcro to the visor and the corresponding surface of the windscreen frame - all to no avail. I start out my drive with both visors up and after about 30 seconds, the right side visor is flopping down. I need some sort of visor Viagra - any suggestions? Many thanks, Bruce Cairns From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Oct 15 12:45:33 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 14:45:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Floppy sun visor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Very simple solution that has held my visors in place for 12 years now. This is easiest to do with the visors off of the car. Pull the visor off of the rod and bend the rod every so slightly.........just an itsy bitsy teeny bend will hold them in place. Some guys try crimping the metal channel in the visor but the rod bend is easier and works great. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dr. Bruce Cairns" Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 2:17 PM To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Subject: [TR] Floppy sun visor > Whilst motoring about with the top down, the passenger-side sun visor on > my > '74 TR6 steadfastly refuses to remain in the flipped-up orientation. I > have > replaced the visor and rubber retaining chock, wrapped the end of the > visor > rod with gaffer's tape, attached velcro to the visor and the corresponding > surface of the windscreen frame - all to no avail. I start out my drive > with > both visors up and after about 30 seconds, the right side visor is > flopping > down. I need some sort of visor Viagra - any suggestions? > Many thanks, > Bruce Cairns > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 15 13:03:30 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 15:03:30 EDT Subject: [TR] Floppy sun visor Message-ID: <23fd1.4fc894f7.39e9ff82@cs.com> In a message dated 10/15/2010 1:18:20 PM Central Daylight Time, Cairnsbk at sbcglobal.net writes: > Whilst motoring about with the top down, the passenger-side sun visor on > my > '74 TR6 steadfastly refuses to remain in the flipped-up orientation. I > have > replaced the visor and rubber retaining chock, wrapped the end of the > visor > rod with gaffer's tape, attached velcro to the visor and the corresponding > surface of the windscreen frame - all to no avail. I start out my drive > with > both visors up and after about 30 seconds, the right side visor is > flopping > down. I have the same problem with both visors. A little bit annoying especially on the driver's side. I haven't tried anything yet but ideas range from putting a kink in the rod to flattening out the rod a bit (making the thickness in the other dimension greater). Other ideas appreciated. Dave From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Oct 15 13:16:16 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 14:16:16 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Floppy sun visor Message-ID: <1219931668.369721.1287170176377.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net> Always wanted to ask this, bend which way? Is the bend not impacted by where the one side screws into the mount? Bend towards the drive or away from driver? Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Oct 15, 2010 02:46:03 PM, 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org wrote: Very simple solution that has held my visors in place for 12 years now. This is easiest to do with the visors off of the car. Pull the visor off of the rod and bend the rod every so slightly.........just an itsy bitsy teeny bend will hold them in place. Some guys try crimping the metal channel in the visor but the rod bend is easier and works great. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dr. Bruce Cairns" Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 2:17 PM To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Subject: [TR] Floppy sun visor > Whilst motoring about with the top down, the passenger-side sun visor on > my > '74 TR6 steadfastly refuses to remain in the flipped-up orientation. I > have > replaced the visor and rubber retaining chock, wrapped the end of the > visor > rod with gaffer's tape, attached velcro to the visor and the corresponding > surface of the windscreen frame - all to no avail. I start out my drive > with > both visors up and after about 30 seconds, the right side visor is > flopping > down. I need some sort of visor Viagra - any suggestions? > Many thanks, > Bruce Cairns > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Oct 15 15:47:42 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 16:47:42 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety Message-ID: <26501930.400776.1287179262242.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> To the list, 1972 Triumph TR6, returned from some work at local British car shop. Had leaking brake master cylinder. They evaluated the brake master, it was toast. Evaluated servo unit, it was full of fluid. They do not do rebuilds. So, new master, new brake server, new fluid, bled the brakes. Drove for a week, was really surprised on how soft the brake was since before the repair it was hard as a rock. The servo is nice and gives you better control of brake pressure. Issue, went to a car show last weekend about 45 miles out. Came back, got off the highway, came to the first stoplight, pressed on the brakes and I had no servo assist. Did get stopped but just barely. Notified the shop, they have a 45 day parts and labor warranty and they were very nice as always. So, I have been driving the car as much as possible to test it out. The servo has cut out on me maybe 4 times in the past two weeks, usually if I come off the brake and then go back in, it is ok. Where I have had a problem is coming home tonight pulling into a parking spot, hit the brakes, no assist and I almost hit the concrete in front of me. I am concerned by the fact that I do not do brakes because they need to be right and I drive both of my kids in the car. When I hit the brakes, I expect them to be the same each time I hit them. This issue seems to be (at least to me) related to the vacuum boost that comes from the engine because it seems to happen the most at low speed. What do you say list? Should I expect the brakes to react and "feel" the same each time I depress them with this new equipment or is it another one of those fun "British car things". Any input is appreciated, if it is not right, I will let them deal with it. Thanks, Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 From acekraut11 at aol.com Fri Oct 15 16:19:08 2010 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (Acekraut11) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 18:19:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety In-Reply-To: <26501930.400776.1287179262242.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> References: <26501930.400776.1287179262242.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <8CD3ACE1F01007F-1940-19A@webmail-m060.sysops.aol.com> Craig, My brakes work the exact same each time. You absolutely should take the car back again, and again, until they get it right. If necessary they should replace the servo and see if that is the problem. Regardless, you have been lucky a couple times. It could happen again when you try to brake because someone stops quickly in front of you or a kid runs out in front of you. You might not be as lucky the next time. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Oct 15, 2010 5:47 pm Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety To the list, 1972 Triumph TR6, returned from some work at local British car shop. Had leaking brake master cylinder. They evaluated the brake master, it was toast. Evaluated servo unit, it was full of fluid. They do not do rebuilds. So, new master, new brake server, new fluid, bled the brakes. Drove for a week, was really surprised on how soft the brake was since before the repair it was hard as a rock. The servo is nice and gives you better control of brake pressure. Issue, went to a car show last weekend about 45 miles out. Came back, got off the highway, came to the first stoplight, pressed on the brakes and I had no servo assist. Did get stopped but just barely. Notified the shop, they have a 45 day parts and labor warranty and they were very nice as always. So, I have been driving the car as much as possible to test it out. The servo has cut out on me maybe 4 times in the past two weeks, usually if I come off the brake and then go back in, it is ok. Where I have had a problem is coming home tonight pulling into a parking spot, hit the brakes, no assist and I almost hit the concrete in front of me. I am concerned by the fact that I do not do brakes because they need to be right and I drive both of my kids in the car. When I hit the brakes, I expect them to be the same each time I hit them. This issue seems to be (at least to me) related to the vacuum boost that comes from the engine because it seems to happen the most at low speed. What do you say list? Should I expect the brakes to react and "feel" the same each time I depress them with this new equipment or is it another one of those fun "British car things". Any input is appreciated, if it is not right, I will let them deal with it. Thanks, Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Oct 15 17:19:57 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 18:19:57 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety Message-ID: <1568248988.76672.1287184797442.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> Done. Not only does the servo not work correctly, I have fluid coming out from the master cylinder CAP. This happened to me last Sunday at a car show, and it took me 20 minutes to get the cap off and one blister. Cleaned up, put cap on gently, and tonight there is more fluid leaking from the CAP. Attempted to remove it again, have another blister, and it is still not off. It is clearly also defective. I have asked them to replace both parts at their expense and do a quality control check to make sure the servo is good and that a human can acutally remove the cap that never leaked on the original part when I took it in. Thanks Aaron, Craig Oct 15, 2010 06:19:36 PM, acekraut11 at aol.com wrote: Craig, My brakes work the exact same each time. You absolutely should take the car back again, and again, until they get it right. If necessary they should replace the servo and see if that is the problem. Regardless, you have been lucky a couple times. It could happen again when you try to brake because someone stops quickly in front of you or a kid runs out in front of you. You might not be as lucky the next time. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Oct 15, 2010 5:47 pm Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety To the list, 1972 Triumph TR6, returned from some work at local British car shop. Had leaking brake master cylinder. They evaluated the brake master, it was toast. Evaluated servo unit, it was full of fluid. They do not do rebuilds. So, new master, new brake server, new fluid, bled the brakes. Drove for a week, was really surprised on how soft the brake was since before the repair it was hard as a rock. The servo is nice and gives you better control of brake pressure. Issue, went to a car show last weekend about 45 miles out. Came back, got off the highway, came to the first stoplight, pressed on the brakes and I had no servo assist. Did get stopped but just barely. Notified the shop, they have a 45 day parts and labor warranty and they were very nice as always. So, I have been driving the car as much as possible to test it out. The servo has cut out on me maybe 4 times in the past two weeks, usually if I come off the brake and then go back in, it is ok. Where I have had a problem is coming home tonight pulling into a parking spot, hit the brakes, no assist and I almost hit the concrete in front of me. I am concerned by the fact that I do not do brakes because they need to be right and I drive both of my kids in the car. When I hit the brakes, I expect them to be the same each time I hit them. This issue seems to be (at least to me) related to the vacuum boost that comes from the engine because it seems to happen the most at low speed. What do you say list? Should I expect the brakes to react and "feel" the same each time I depress them with this new equipment or is it another one of those fun "British car things". Any input is appreciated, if it is not right, I will let them deal with it. Thanks, Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 From dlylis at gmail.com Fri Oct 15 18:46:43 2010 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 00:46:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety In-Reply-To: <1568248988.76672.1287184797442.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1568248988.76672.1287184797442.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: Please find out where the replacement parts came from and post here. Frankly, I am concerned about the quality of some of the parts out there, and we are talking brakes. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 18:19:57 To: Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety Done. Not only does the servo not work correctly, I have fluid coming out from the master cylinder CAP. This happened to me last Sunday at a car show, and it took me 20 minutes to get the cap off and one blister. Cleaned up, put cap on gently, and tonight there is more fluid leaking from the CAP. Attempted to remove it again, have another blister, and it is still not off. It is clearly also defective. I have asked them to replace both parts at their expense and do a quality control check to make sure the servo is good and that a human can acutally remove the cap that never leaked on the original part when I took it in. Thanks Aaron, Craig Oct 15, 2010 06:19:36 PM, acekraut11 at aol.com wrote: Craig, My brakes work the exact same each time. You absolutely should take the car back again, and again, until they get it right. If necessary they should replace the servo and see if that is the problem. Regardless, you have been lucky a couple times. It could happen again when you try to brake because someone stops quickly in front of you or a kid runs out in front of you. You might not be as lucky the next time. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Oct 15, 2010 5:47 pm Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety To the list, 1972 Triumph TR6, returned from some work at local British car shop. Had leaking brake master cylinder. They evaluated the brake master, it was toast. Evaluated servo unit, it was full of fluid. They do not do rebuilds. So, new master, new brake server, new fluid, bled the brakes. Drove for a week, was really surprised on how soft the brake was since before the repair it was hard as a rock. The servo is nice and gives you better control of brake pressure. Issue, went to a car show last weekend about 45 miles out. Came back, got off the highway, came to the first stoplight, pressed on the brakes and I had no servo assist. Did get stopped but just barely. Notified the shop, they have a 45 day parts and labor warranty and they were very nice as always. So, I have been driving the car as much as possible to test it out. The servo has cut out on me maybe 4 times in the past two weeks, usually if I come off the brake and then go back in, it is ok. Where I have had a problem is coming home tonight pulling into a parking spot, hit the brakes, no assist and I almost hit the concrete in front of me. I am concerned by the fact that I do not do brakes because they need to be right and I drive both of my kids in the car. When I hit the brakes, I expect them to be the same each time I hit them. This issue seems to be (at least to me) related to the vacuum boost that comes from the engine because it seems to happen the most at low speed. What do you say list? Should I expect the brakes to react and "feel" the same each time I depress them with this new equipment or is it another one of those fun "British car things". Any input is appreciated, if it is not right, I will let them deal with it. Thanks, Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Oct 15 19:01:38 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 18:01:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Floppy sun visor In-Reply-To: <1219931668.369721.1287170176377.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1219931668.369721.1287170176377.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: I just tightened up the p/s visor on the TR4 -- perhaps it is similar to the TR6 -- if so, took only a minute. Removed the visor, inserted a phillips screwdriver that was slightly smaller then the rod diameter & squeezed the housing with a pair of pliers in a bit from the end. Used a bit of padding to protect the vinyl. Now it stays put. Geo From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Oct 15 20:39:13 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 21:39:13 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety Message-ID: <68614103.580421.1287196753234.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net> Will do, but in the area I live, we are talking about $90 per hour verses the close shop which charges $250 per hour, and yes I have a wrench, but I know what I can and cannot do. Thanks, Craig Oct 15, 2010 08:51:23 PM, dlylis at gmail.com wrote: Please find out where the replacement parts came from and post here. Frankly, I am concerned about the quality of some of the parts out there, and we are talking brakes. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 18:19:57 To: Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety Done. Not only does the servo not work correctly, I have fluid coming out from the master cylinder CAP. This happened to me last Sunday at a car show, and it took me 20 minutes to get the cap off and one blister. Cleaned up, put cap on gently, and tonight there is more fluid leaking from the CAP. Attempted to remove it again, have another blister, and it is still not off. It is clearly also defective. I have asked them to replace both parts at their expense and do a quality control check to make sure the servo is good and that a human can acutally remove the cap that never leaked on the original part when I took it in. Thanks Aaron, Craig Oct 15, 2010 06:19:36 PM, acekraut11 at aol.com wrote: Craig, My brakes work the exact same each time. You absolutely should take the car back again, and again, until they get it right. If necessary they should replace the servo and see if that is the problem. Regardless, you have been lucky a couple times. It could happen again when you try to brake because someone stops quickly in front of you or a kid runs out in front of you. You might not be as lucky the next time. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Oct 15, 2010 5:47 pm Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety To the list, 1972 Triumph TR6, returned from some work at local British car shop. Had leaking brake master cylinder. They evaluated the brake master, it was toast. Evaluated servo unit, it was full of fluid. They do not do rebuilds. So, new master, new brake server, new fluid, bled the brakes. Drove for a week, was really surprised on how soft the brake was since before the repair it was hard as a rock. The servo is nice and gives you better control of brake pressure. Issue, went to a car show last weekend about 45 miles out. Came back, got off the highway, came to the first stoplight, pressed on the brakes and I had no servo assist. Did get stopped but just barely. Notified the shop, they have a 45 day parts and labor warranty and they were very nice as always. So, I have been driving the car as much as possible to test it out. The servo has cut out on me maybe 4 times in the past two weeks, usually if I come off the brake and then go back in, it is ok. Where I have had a problem is coming home tonight pulling into a parking spot, hit the brakes, no assist and I almost hit the concrete in front of me. I am concerned by the fact that I do not do brakes because they need to be right and I drive both of my kids in the car. When I hit the brakes, I expect them to be the same each time I hit them. This issue seems to be (at least to me) related to the vacuum boost that comes from the engine because it seems to happen the most at low speed. What do you say list? Should I expect the brakes to react and "feel" the same each time I depress them with this new equipment or is it another one of those fun "British car things". Any input is appreciated, if it is not right, I will let them deal with it. Thanks, Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Oct 15 20:43:05 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 22:43:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Floppy sun visor In-Reply-To: <1219931668.369721.1287170176377.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1219931668.369721.1287170176377.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <9F5041FF84EA47199A7402713C299393@BobPC> All I did Craig was give it a little bend. I wish I could say there was some technical analysis that went along with it. I tried the other solutions but they didn't last so, out of frustration, I pulled the visor off of the rod, put one end of the rod in a vise and tugged....... slide the visor back on the rod and.........12 years later they still stay in place. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 3:16 PM To: <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Cc: ; Subject: Re: Re: [TR] Floppy sun visor > Always wanted to ask this, bend which way? Is the bend not impacted by > where the one side screws into the mount? > > Bend towards the drive or away from driver? > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > > Oct 15, 2010 02:46:03 PM, 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org wrote: > > Very simple solution that has held my visors in place for 12 years now. > This > is easiest to do with the visors off of the car. Pull the visor off of the > rod and bend the rod every so slightly.........just an itsy bitsy teeny > bend > will hold them in place. Some guys try crimping the metal channel in the > visor but the rod bend is easier and works great. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Dr. Bruce Cairns" > Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 2:17 PM > To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" > Subject: [TR] Floppy sun visor > >> Whilst motoring about with the top down, the passenger-side sun visor on >> my >> '74 TR6 steadfastly refuses to remain in the flipped-up orientation. I >> have >> replaced the visor and rubber retaining chock, wrapped the end of the >> visor >> rod with gaffer's tape, attached velcro to the visor and the >> corresponding >> surface of the windscreen frame - all to no avail. I start out my drive >> with >> both visors up and after about 30 seconds, the right side visor is >> flopping >> down. I need some sort of visor Viagra - any suggestions? >> Many thanks, >> Bruce Cairns >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Fri Oct 15 21:29:15 2010 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 20:29:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <683246.50003.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> $90/Hour?? $250/HOUR?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? That is Bimmer Mechanic money and STUPID money respectively. Where in the world do you live? I would move. Chad in Tulsa ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------- Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 21:39:13 -0500 (CDT) From: thenicholls at verizon.net Subject: Re: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety To: dlylis at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net, triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Message-ID: <68614103.580421.1287196753234.JavaMail.root at vms244.mailsrvcs.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Will do, but in the area I live, we are talking about $90 per hour verses the close shop which charges $250 per hour, and yes I have a wrench, but I know what I can and cannot do. Thanks, Craig From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Oct 15 21:33:30 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 23:33:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 WHEEL w/new 165-15 tire-FOR SALE Message-ID: <8CD3AFA0985A4F9-F88-18AD3@webmail-m095.sysops.aol.com> TR LIST: I have one lonely unwanted TR6 WHEEL w/new Tire. Missing a spare? Contact me or I can eBAY. Joe A From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Oct 15 21:59:26 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 20:59:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Questions Message-ID: <512130.61973.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I went to move my TR6 tonight so I can get the TR3 in the shop instead (there may be a pattern forming here...). I drove the 6 around the block and it was pouring fuel out of the rear carburetor on the bottom through a round disk thing that is rattling around. I am not real familiar with the TR6 yet and never touched a ZS carb. What are those disk things? Why does fuel pour out of one? Is there a quick fix until I can rebuild the carbs? The car sat for about 20 years and I am bringing it back to life. I just need to move the car about 300 feet uphill and would rather not be on fire while doing it. TIA Bill in Tehachapi From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Oct 15 22:21:56 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 00:21:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Questions References: <512130.61973.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <47A628D8AA184AB1B14A3A13FD9E994F@Alan> Thats the drain plug for the float bowl. You need a need O-ring for the plug. Best to replace both at the same time. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 11:59 PM Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Questions > I went to move my TR6 tonight so I can get the TR3 in the shop instead > (there may be a pattern forming here...). I drove the 6 around the block > and it was pouring fuel out of the rear carburetor on the bottom through a > round disk thing that is rattling around. I am not real familiar with the > TR6 yet and never touched a ZS carb. What are those disk things? Why does > fuel pour out of one? Is there a quick fix until I can rebuild the carbs? > The car sat for about 20 years and I am bringing it back to life. > I just need to move the car about 300 feet uphill and would rather not > be on fire while doing it. > TIA > > Bill in Tehachapi > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From TR4Zest at gmail.com Sat Oct 16 03:01:13 2010 From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 09:01:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety Message-ID: <90e6ba53a53e5c27800492b82ff2@google.com> Craig wrote: Had leaking brake master cylinder. They evaluated the brake master, it was toast. Evaluated servo unit, it was full of fluid. They do not do rebuilds. Craig, Did they explain why your master cylinder is toast? I am not an originality freak, but I much prefer to repair and refresh what is originally there than try to work with a part from India ... unless I have to. Master cylinders fail through 'expected' wear, mostly, and it is usually to the benefit of Apple Hydraulics or Whitepost or similar to execute a re-bore using a brass sleeve. The good-as-new re-bored part can then be returned to the car. Perhaps there was another failure than normal wear? My local shop returns to me anything that comes off the car. Does yours, or did they toss it? TRF still offer the original Girling master cyclinder. I wonder where yours came from. It also sounds like you have a faulty servo. Maybe a valve in the servo is sticking. I think it unlikely that you have a on/off vacuum causing an as-expected this time; less than expected next time, brake performance. Parts for the original servo are available, such as here: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006770. If you could have the original returned, you may be tempted to find someone to rebuild it, as you say you don't 'do brakes'. The kit by the way, is around $35 and the after-market servo is around $350 and it has different internals. Brian From ikorey at comcast.net Sat Oct 16 03:15:29 2010 From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 04:15:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Questions In-Reply-To: <512130.61973.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <512130.61973.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 10:59 PM, William Brewer wrote: > I went to move my TR6 tonight so I can get the TR3 in the shop instead > (there may be a pattern forming here...). I drove the 6 around the block and > it was pouring fuel out of the rear carburetor on the bottom through a round > disk thing that is rattling around. I am not real familiar with the TR6 yet > and never touched a ZS carb. What are those disk things? Why does fuel pour > out of one? Is there a quick fix until I can rebuild the carbs? The car sat > for about 20 years and I am bringing it back to life. > I just need to move the car about 300 feet uphill and would rather not > be on fire while doing it. > The earlier Z-S carbs had adjustable jets. When the asjustable jets were replaced with adjustable needles as emissions became more of an issue, instead of retooling the float bowls, a plug with an o-ring was put into the opening. The o-rings are most likely the problem. HTH, Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IK From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Oct 16 06:20:27 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 08:20:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety In-Reply-To: <683246.50003.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <683246.50003.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <21276678B65E45799064CF560214FC6B@BobPC> Welcome to our world Chad.............Connecticut here and most independent shops in my area are over $100/hr but you might find one at $85/hr if you're lucky. The Mazda dealer is at $115/hr. No idea about MB or BMW but I'm sure it's higher. It's only "stupid" if you have other choices that offer better work and are less expensive........... Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Chad" Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 11:29 PM To: Subject: Re: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety > $90/Hour?? $250/HOUR?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? That is Bimmer Mechanic money > and > STUPID money respectively. > > Where in the world do you live? I would move. > Chad in Tulsa > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > -------------------- > > > Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 21:39:13 -0500 (CDT) > From: > thenicholls at verizon.net > Subject: Re: [TR] New brake master and servo > question/issue/safety > To: dlylis at gmail.com > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net, > triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > > <68614103.580421.1287196753234.JavaMail.root at vms244.mailsrvcs.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Will do, but in the area I live, we > are talking about $90 per hour verses the > close shop which charges $250 per > hour, and yes I have a wrench, but I know what > I can and cannot do. > > Thanks, > Craig > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Oct 16 06:23:40 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 08:23:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Questions In-Reply-To: <512130.61973.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <512130.61973.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bill, Good picture of the float bowl plug here: http://tinyurl.com/35a6mo3 Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "William Brewer" Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 11:59 PM To: "Triumphs" Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Questions > I went to move my TR6 tonight so I can get the TR3 in the shop instead > (there may be a pattern forming here...). I drove the 6 around the block > and it was pouring fuel out of the rear carburetor on the bottom through a > round disk thing that is rattling around. I am not real familiar with the > TR6 yet and never touched a ZS carb. What are those disk things? Why does > fuel pour out of one? Is there a quick fix until I can rebuild the carbs? > The car sat for about 20 years and I am bringing it back to life. > I just need to move the car about 300 feet uphill and would rather not > be on fire while doing it. > TIA > > Bill in Tehachapi > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sat Oct 16 08:50:41 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 07:50:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch Questions Message-ID: <428109.10658.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> After re-installing the rack and pinion in the 1974 TR6 I was adjusting where the steering column lines up with the splines at the R&P. I had done this a couple of times, driven the car around the block and it looked ready to go. I made one last adjustment and when I went and turned the key - nothing. No ignition light. Nothing. I found the horn bush on the floor (from sliding the steering shaft back) and re-installed it. Still nothing. Is there something in the steering shaft that could have caused this? It seemed like I had a steering column lock before, but now it is intermittent. The steering wheel still appears to be flush against the column as before. I get under the dash in the drivers footwell (what a delightful position...) and put a test light on the switch terminals. I don't see well really close up so bare with me. With the key off I have power to the brown and red wire (6) and the brown wire (2). With the key on I get power to the white wire (3). I never get the wire and red wire (1) to come on. Did the switch fry? Why would the R&W wire not get power? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sat Oct 16 10:04:31 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 09:04:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch Questions Message-ID: <962292.47099.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am going to revise my sleep deprived email below. Looking at the key, the key is only turning to the first position and I can't make it go to II or III. It must be something in the key lock/column from sliding the column shaft back earlier. Any ideas? -Bill --- On Sat, 10/16/10, William Brewer wrote: > From: William Brewer > Subject: TR6 Ignition Switch Questions > To: "Triumphs" > Date: Saturday, October 16, 2010, 7:50 AM > After > re-installing the rack and pinion in the 1974 TR6 I was > adjusting where the steering column lines up with the > splines at the R&P. I had done this a couple of times, > driven the car around the block and it looked ready to go. I > made one last adjustment and when I went and turned the key > - nothing. No ignition light. Nothing. I found the horn bush > on the floor (from sliding the steering shaft back) and > re-installed it. Still nothing. > Is there something in the steering > shaft that could have caused this? It seemed like I had a > steering column lock before, but now it is intermittent. The > steering wheel still appears to be flush against the column > as before. > I get under the dash in the > drivers footwell (what a delightful position...) and put a > test light on the switch terminals. I don't see well really > close up so bare with me. With the key off I have power to > the brown and red wire (6) and the brown wire (2). With the > key on I get power to the white wire (3). I never get the > wire and red wire (1) to come on. > Did the switch fry? Why would the > R&W wire not get power? > TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Oct 16 10:29:21 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 12:29:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch Questions In-Reply-To: <962292.47099.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <962292.47099.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201010161229.22130.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday, October 16, 2010 12:04:31 pm William Brewer wrote: > I am going to revise my sleep deprived email below. > Looking at the > key, the key is only turning to the first position and I can't make it go > to II or III. It must be something in the key lock/column from sliding the > column shaft back earlier. > Any ideas? > > -Bill > > Bill, If your steering lock is not functioning correctly then I am guessing that is your primary problem here. When I installed the switch/lock on my 72, I really had to play with the fitting/location to insure the lock mechanism locked and unlocked as required. I never really tried the 3 position switch as I was concerned with the locking position. Once I got the lock to function the switch worked as required. That is where I would work first. I am guessing once you get the lock working correctly the switch will work as designed. Also make sure you lube the locking post with some 3/1 oil. Bob From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Oct 16 11:45:36 2010 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (Acekraut11) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 13:45:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch Questions In-Reply-To: <962292.47099.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <962292.47099.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD3B711333E708-1410-5237@webmail-m046.sysops.aol.com> Bill, The steering shaft has a cut-out where the locking mechanism slides into to stop the steering wheel from being turned when the key is out of the ignition. It sounds as though your last adjustment might have pinned the locking tab to the side of this void. Of course a similar thing happens each time you park the car and turn the wheel a little bit, which is then remedied by turning the wheel enough to release the pressure, thus allowing the tab to slip out of the hole and then you can turn the key. You might be able to get the tab to drop out by turning the wheel in the locked position left and right while trying to turn the key. If this doesnt work then you will most likely have to return the steering column back to its previous position. You can then straighten the wheel if it is slightly off by removing the steering wheel and placing it on again straight. Should be a pretty easy fix either way, except, of course that you need a pretty big socket to get that steering wheel nut off. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2010 12:04 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch Questions I am going to revise my sleep deprived email below. Looking at the key, the key is only turning to the first position and I can't make it go to II or III. It must be something in the key lock/column from sliding the column shaft back earlier. Any ideas? -Bill --- On Sat, 10/16/10, William Brewer wrote: > From: William Brewer > Subject: TR6 Ignition Switch Questions > To: "Triumphs" > Date: Saturday, October 16, 2010, 7:50 AM > After > re-installing the rack and pinion in the 1974 TR6 I was > adjusting where the steering column lines up with the > splines at the R&P. I had done this a couple of times, > driven the car around the block and it looked ready to go. I > made one last adjustment and when I went and turned the key > - nothing. No ignition light. Nothing. I found the horn bush > on the floor (from sliding the steering shaft back) and > re-installed it. Still nothing. > Is there something in the steering > shaft that could have caused this? It seemed like I had a > steering column lock before, but now it is intermittent. The > steering wheel still appears to be flush against the column > as before. > I get under the dash in the > drivers footwell (what a delightful position...) and put a > test light on the switch terminals. I don't see well really > close up so bare with me. With the key off I have power to > the brown and red wire (6) and the brown wire (2). With the > key on I get power to the white wire (3). I never get the > wire and red wire (1) to come on. > Did the switch fry? Why would the > R&W wire not get power? > TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Oct 16 13:31:30 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 12:31:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 carb rebuild H6 Message-ID: <170190.37681.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> when i rebuilt my carbs over a year ago, i could never get the jets to return to their correct position when the choke was released. they always stick open. living in southern California i have found i don't need a choke and i have just left them alone. carbs work fine. the piston drops like its supposed to. so i just was helping a friend rebuild his carbs. all new parts. using the moss rubber gland washers. (my rebuild used the cork gland seals) align the jet with the moss alignment tool. new jet lever return springs. lots of wear in the choke linkage, so there is no binding. when i put the jet assembly back into the carb body and tighten the big sealing ring by hand. every thing operates good. pull the choke lever, jet comes down. let go the choke lever jets are pulled back to where they started and should be. the moment i put a wrench on it and give it the last little bit of turn. the jets stick open when you activate the choke and you can feel an increased friction. even with the needle and pots off. lots of assembly oil, 30 weight. i can push them back up by hand quite easily. when i put the needle, pistons and pots on every thing moves like its supposed to (except the choke). pistons drop all the way with a click etc, so i know the jet is aligned properly. so what am i doing wrong with the jet assembly that is making the choke so full of friction? 4 bad Assembly's in a row, don't make me feel so good! there is a little grove cut in the upper jet bearing. is there a special way it should be rotated? Frank From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 16 14:21:36 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 13:21:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 carb rebuild H6 In-Reply-To: <170190.37681.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <170190.37681.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00b201cb6d6f$bbbb1ab0$0301a8c0@randall> > so what am i doing wrong with the jet assembly that is > making the choke so full > of friction? Only thing I can think of is that somehow, one of the jet bearing halves is either cocked when it works and forced straight when you tighten the nut, or else being forced out of line. It shouldn't make any difference which way that slot is turned (it's just there to allow fuel to flow into the jet bearing. I'll add that I never had very good luck using the centering tool; and feel it is a poor design. It in effect assumes that everything is machined perfectly, since it only centers the jet to the carb body rather than to the needle itself. If everything was machined perfectly then there would be no need to adjust the jet centering! My method is to assemble everything with the mixture nut turned full lean (or off entirely) and tighten the large nut partway with a wrench, so the jet bearings can just barely move. I then tap the jet bearing around until the jet is centered (as shown by the needle not binding, piston falls with a click), which is a trial and error process but generally only takes a few minutes. Then finish tightening the big nut and check again; sometimes it will move and the process have to be repeated. When you set the mixture, the jet will be lower and hence assure some small clearance to the needle. BTW, I really like the seals from Moss, but they appear to be just ordinary O-rings. Since I finally managed to wear them out (apparently some fine grit got in there and caused the wear), this time I used ordinary Buna-N O-rings. Seem to be working so far. Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Oct 16 14:37:45 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 13:37:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 carb rebuild H6 In-Reply-To: <00b201cb6d6f$bbbb1ab0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <170190.37681.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <00b201cb6d6f$bbbb1ab0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <582468.30672.qm@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> ________________________________ From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, October 16, 2010 1:21:36 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 carb rebuild H6 > so what am i doing wrong with the jet assembly that is > making the choke so full > of friction? Only thing I can think of is that somehow, one of the jet bearing halves is either cocked when it works and forced straight when you tighten the nut, or else being forced out of line. but to have all 4 carbs act the same (2 on each car)! it has to be something im doing. no? It shouldn't make any difference which way that slot is turned (it's just there to allow fuel to flow into the jet bearing. I'll add that I never had very good luck using the centering tool; and feel it is a poor design. It in effect assumes that everything is machined perfectly, since it only centers the jet to the carb body rather than to the needle itself. If everything was machined perfectly then there would be no need to adjust the jet centering! agreed. but its kinda working ok. and as i said with the needle, piston and pot off the carb, the jets still bind. My method is to assemble everything with the mixture nut turned full lean (or off entirely) and tighten the large nut partway with a wrench, so the jet bearings can just barely move. I then tap the jet bearing around until the jet is centered (as shown by the needle not binding, piston falls with a click), which is a trial and error process but generally only takes a few minutes. Then finish tightening the big nut and check again; sometimes it will move and the process have to be repeated. When you set the mixture, the jet will be lower and hence assure some small clearance to the needle. BTW, I really like the seals from Moss, but they appear to be just ordinary O-rings. Since I finally managed to wear them out (apparently some fine grit got in there and caused the wear), this time I used ordinary Buna-N O-rings. Seem to be working so far. Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Oct 16 14:43:46 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 13:43:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 carb rebuild H6 In-Reply-To: <582468.30672.qm@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <170190.37681.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <00b201cb6d6f$bbbb1ab0$0301a8c0@randall> <582468.30672.qm@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <389508.20655.qm@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> that was not a good post eh? Only thing I can think of is that somehow, one of the jet bearing halves is either cocked when it works and forced straight when you tighten the nut, or else being forced out of line. but to have all 4 carbs act the same (2 on each car)! it has to be something im doing. no? I'll add that I never had very good luck using the centering tool; and feel it is a poor design. It in effect assumes that everything is machined perfectly, since it only centers the jet to the carb body rather than to the needle itself. If everything was machined perfectly then there would be no need to adjust the jet centering! agreed. but its kinda working ok. and as i said with the needle, piston and pot off the carb, the jets still bind. ________________________________ From: Frank Fisher To: Randall Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, October 16, 2010 1:37:45 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 carb rebuild H6 ________________________________ From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, October 16, 2010 1:21:36 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 carb rebuild H6 > so what am i doing wrong with the jet assembly that is > making the choke so full > of friction? Only thing I can think of is that somehow, one of the jet bearing halves is either cocked when it works and forced straight when you tighten the nut, or else being forced out of line. but to have all 4 carbs act the same (2 on each car)! it has to be something im doing. no? It shouldn't make any difference which way that slot is turned (it's just there to allow fuel to flow into the jet bearing. I'll add that I never had very good luck using the centering tool; and feel it is a poor design. It in effect assumes that everything is machined perfectly, since it only centers the jet to the carb body rather than to the needle itself. If everything was machined perfectly then there would be no need to adjust the jet centering! agreed. but its kinda working ok. and as i said with the needle, piston and pot off the carb, the jets still bind. My method is to assemble everything with the mixture nut turned full lean (or off entirely) and tighten the large nut partway with a wrench, so the jet bearings can just barely move. I then tap the jet bearing around until the jet is centered (as shown by the needle not binding, piston falls with a click), which is a trial and error process but generally only takes a few minutes. Then finish tightening the big nut and check again; sometimes it will move and the process have to be repeated. When you set the mixture, the jet will be lower and hence assure some small clearance to the needle. BTW, I really like the seals from Moss, but they appear to be just ordinary O-rings. Since I finally managed to wear them out (apparently some fine grit got in there and caused the wear), this time I used ordinary Buna-N O-rings. Seem to be working so far. Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Oct 16 20:57:48 2010 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 22:57:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 carb rebuild H6 DIFF References: <170190.37681.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <00b201cb6d6f$bbbb1ab0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: I'm BACK (too)! But Frank's issue reminds me of a problem that has bothered my H6 carbs. Since my car doesn't run (for how many years now?) what I'm gonna say isn't actually a fix, but maybe a way I'll live with my "JET/NEEDLE MISALIGNMENT PROBLEM". rEMEMBER: I've never driven a Triumph before, so that's my disclaimer, YMMV But, Both of my carb's pistons drop with a nice click, if and only if, I totally unscrew the plastic dashpot caps on the top of the carbs. However, I've been told that their apt to shoot out these little plungers out of their pistons upon accleration or something. Soo, why not find a wire,string, tape (and hose clamp) or something to keep them from shooting out too far? I know i'll proably loose some Marvel Mystified oil or something. And it's not a fix nnor nothin, but, it keeps things from binding. Maybe the little plungers aren't properly centered or the piston covers are out of whack, what else could cause this? I hope Frank happens upon a 'real fix' for his problem. My problem may not be fixable. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2010 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 carb rebuild H6 >> so what am i doing wrong with the jet assembly that is >> making the choke so full >> of friction? > > Only thing I can think of is that somehow, one of the jet bearing halves > is > either cocked when it works and forced straight when you tighten the nut, > or > else being forced out of line. It shouldn't make any difference which way > that slot is turned (it's just there to allow fuel to flow into the jet > bearing. > > I'll add that I never had very good luck using the centering tool; and > feel > it is a poor design. It in effect assumes that everything is machined > perfectly, since it only centers the jet to the carb body rather than to > the > needle itself. If everything was machined perfectly then there would be > no > need to adjust the jet centering! > > My method is to assemble everything with the mixture nut turned full lean > (or off entirely) and tighten the large nut partway with a wrench, so the > jet bearings can just barely move. I then tap the jet bearing around > until > the jet is centered (as shown by the needle not binding, piston falls with > a > click), which is a trial and error process but generally only takes a few > minutes. Then finish tightening the big nut and check again; sometimes it > will move and the process have to be repeated. When you set the mixture, > the jet will be lower and hence assure some small clearance to the needle. > > BTW, I really like the seals from Moss, but they appear to be just > ordinary > O-rings. Since I finally managed to wear them out (apparently some fine > grit got in there and caused the wear), this time I used ordinary Buna-N > O-rings. Seem to be working so far. > > Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul at bellsouth.net From jdabars at att.net Wed Oct 13 21:26:46 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 20:26:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Sunday evening 5 pm at Sea Jay's restaurant Jekll Island, VTR convention. Message-ID: <589742.89569.qm@web83711.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> What to do, what to do? Sunday evening at 5 pm, oct. 17, there is a group of triumphiles that will attend the Sea Jay's seafood restaurant in the harbour for their famous Low Country Boil at $17.95 all you can eat with fixn's. According to Christy, hostess, this is the BEST on the east coast, she should know---she is a Georgia Bell. Other entrees available. Any one wishing to attend and talk triumfeeze----see you "ALL" there. I will be there---will you? This will be my LAST posting here, as I am departing friday morning toward Jekyll Island----a 16 hour drive for me. Hoosier John From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Oct 17 06:11:47 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey ) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 12:11:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] Sunday evening 5 pm at Sea Jay's restaurant Jekll Island, VTRconvention. Message-ID: Some of us will be arriving a little after 6. See you there Marty Marty -----Original Message----- From: Janis Dabars Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 03:26:46 Subject: [TR] Sunday evening 5 pm at Sea Jay's restaurant Jekll Island, VTR convention. What to do, what to do? Sunday evening at 5 pm, oct. 17, there is a group of triumphiles that will attend the Sea Jay's seafood restaurant in the harbour for their famous Low Country Boil at $17.95 all you can eat with fixn's. According to Christy, hostess, this is the BEST on the east coast, she should know---she is a Georgia Bell. Other entrees available. Any one wishing to attend and talk triumfeeze----see you "ALL" there. I will be there---will you? This will be my LAST posting here, as I am departing friday morning toward Jekyll Island----a 16 hour drive for me. Hoosier John _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trmarty at hotmail.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Oct 17 07:34:11 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 09:34:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A (Late) Boot Seal Message-ID: <000001cb6dff$fc2bad40$f48307c0$@net> Searched the archives but didn't find the answers - although the questions were posted several times. Which way does the seal 'lean' either in (toward the boot) or out (toward the channel)? Also should the 'junction' be at the top (at gas cap) or bottom (at handle)? Thanks Carl From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Oct 17 08:09:53 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 07:09:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Gorilla Glue for Upholstery? Message-ID: <904817.46532.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I have a friend that put in the glued in interior parts (dash cover and cappings) of his TR3 using Gorilla Glue. Previously, he had used contact cement and it was all coming apart a few years later. So far, the GG looks like it is working great. Has anyone else done this? Any downsides? -Bill in Tehachapi From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Oct 17 11:29:16 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 10:29:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Floppy sun visor References: Message-ID: <001301cb6e20$d337cf10$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Hey Bruce, I had the same floppy visor problem. I used a piece of that "unbreakable" clear bubble stuff usually found on item packaging like kids toys. I cut a piece maybe 1/4" x 2" stuck it in the visor hole ( a flexible shim) then pushed the visor onto the visor arm. It forms around the arm and It's firm and no more visor flop. You might have to tinker with the shim size. Regards, Bob > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 11:17:00 -0700 > From: "Dr. Bruce Cairns" > Subject: [TR] Floppy sun visor > To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Whilst motoring about with the top down, the passenger-side sun visor on my > '74 TR6 steadfastly refuses to remain in the flipped-up orientation. I have > replaced the visor and rubber retaining chock, wrapped the end of the visor > rod with gaffer's tape, attached velcro to the visor and the corresponding > surface of the windscreen frame - all to no avail. I start out my drive with > both visors up and after about 30 seconds, the right side visor is flopping > down. I need some sort of visor Viagra - any suggestions? > Many thanks, > Bruce Cairns From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Oct 17 08:49:24 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 10:49:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gorilla Glue for Upholstery? In-Reply-To: <904817.46532.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <904817.46532.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <37D4714A231246BE96FB89165733B43D@BobPC> Without knowing what contact cement he used it's tough to say why it isn't holding up but two things come to mind: 1. you have to cover both pieces with cement AND let both sides dry to a tacky feel before joining them. Lots of people don't wait long enough so it doesn't properly adhere. 2. The proper contact cement to use is a high heat headliner adhesive such as K-Grip Plus that's made to hold headliners in place. ( http://tinyurl.com/292bya6 ) This is what I use for all the interior panel kits that I make. According to the Gorilla Glue site, it can be used for plastic to metal. What it doesn't say is how it will hold up when your car is baking in the sun in the middle of the summer. http://www.gorillatough.com/glues/glue-guide.aspx Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "William Brewer" Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 10:09 AM To: "Triumphs" Subject: [TR] Gorilla Glue for Upholstery? > I have a friend that put in the glued in interior parts (dash cover > and cappings) of his TR3 using Gorilla Glue. Previously, he had used > contact cement and it was all coming apart a few years later. So far, the > GG looks like it is working great. Has anyone else done this? Any > downsides? > > -Bill in Tehachapi From allegrorover at mac.com Sun Oct 17 08:52:51 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 10:52:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A (Late) Boot Seal In-Reply-To: <000001cb6dff$fc2bad40$f48307c0$@net> References: <000001cb6dff$fc2bad40$f48307c0$@net> Message-ID: <130993CA-90F2-4E6E-B4C9-718CACD2B2CA@mac.com> Out toward the channel, and seam at the top. That's the way I was told seems to work fine on my 3A. Also I didn't use any glue to hold the seal in place, once it's pushed into the channel it pretty much stayed there. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Oct 17 09:11:12 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 08:11:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gorilla Glue for Upholstery? In-Reply-To: <37D4714A231246BE96FB89165733B43D@BobPC> References: <904817.46532.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <37D4714A231246BE96FB89165733B43D@BobPC> Message-ID: I think Gorilla Glue will hold really well -- maybe too well. I wouldn't want to be the next guy to do that interior (and on my car I always assume that I will be the next guy). I have used GG in situations where nothing else will hold -- e.g. the TR4 boot seal along the lower lip of the opening. The closing lid sort of rolls that seal loose with an action that no other cement (incl the best contact cement) could withstand. GG did the job and it has never moved since... will probably have to remove the seal with an angle grinder if I ever want to replace it again. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Oct 17 09:17:08 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 08:17:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Lower Windscreen Seal Message-ID: <923245.40235.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am replacing my windscreen and putting in a new seal that goes on the bottom of the windscreen to the cowl. I am using dish soap as a lubricant and I can only get the seal to slide in about 3" before it binds up. I am tugging on it with a pair of pliers to get it coaxed in, but no luck. What's the trick? Can I install it sliding the big lip and then pushing the short part in with a screwdriver or something? Gotta get it fixed today so I can drive it to work tomorrow. TIA, Bill Brewer From spitlist at cox.net Sun Oct 17 10:25:08 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 09:25:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gorilla Glue for Upholstery? In-Reply-To: <904817.46532.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20101017162509.HTOP16314.fed1rmmtao105.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> I used Gorilla Glue on some wood once and it is tough. Problem is that it is very hard to get off. Good luck to anyone who wants to redo those things in the future. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 7:10 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Gorilla Glue for Upholstery? I have a friend that put in the glued in interior parts (dash cover and cappings) of his TR3 using Gorilla Glue. Previously, he had used contact cement and it was all coming apart a few years later. So far, the GG looks like it is working great. Has anyone else done this? Any downsides? -Bill in Tehachapi _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 17 11:07:00 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 10:07:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Lower Windscreen Seal In-Reply-To: <923245.40235.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <923245.40235.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01dd01cb6e1d$b6afe9c0$0301a8c0@randall> > I can only get the seal to > slide in about 3" before it binds up. I've never had much luck sliding that seal into place, so I just lay one side in the groove and then use a blunted screwdriver to force the other side into place. Seems best to do it with the stanchions off, and the frame laying on a firm flat surface, padded with towels or whatever. Besides, you can drive to work without it. You'll get wet if it rains, but that's true with or without the seal Randall From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sun Oct 17 11:14:32 2010 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 18:14:32 +0100 Subject: [TR] Head or crank? Message-ID: I am in the process of removing the motor from my "re-built" TR2 in an attempt to deal with a very heavy leak from between box and motor on tick-over. While stripping down I noticed a trail of oil from the back of the head, some gathering around the starter and more running down around the engine breather. Could the steady flow I saw dripping from the left side of the join between box and motor back plate while the motor was running be actually from the head. I should say there was a steady drip every second and this makes me believe it is unlikely to be from the head. Regards John From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 17 11:42:00 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 10:42:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head or crank? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01e201cb6e22$9a994330$0301a8c0@randall> > Could the steady flow I saw dripping from the left side of > the join between > box and motor back plate while the motor was running be > actually from the > head. Certainly a possibility, John. There is a bolt on the back of the head, that plugs the end of an oil passage. If that bolt were loose, or someone had accidentally used a split lockwasher instead of a solid copper washer, it could leak that much. There are also several plugs in the back of the engine block that could be leaking. One is for the main oil gallery, another for the cam bore. ISTR there is a third but I can't think what it is offhand. Or it could even be the rocker cover gasket leaking from the rear corner. Randall From ols at bcdef.net Sun Oct 17 12:47:45 2010 From: ols at bcdef.net (Alexander Delis) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 14:47:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Muffler question Message-ID: Group Got an email for a friend of mine who asked that I post this to the list for your reactions. > Would you do me a favor re: the email list that you told me about? Now might be the time for me to replace the exhaust system. The engine and transmission are out and I have all the rest of the car on the floor of my garage. > I like the sound of the original TR6 exhaust system. I'm thinking that I'll get the muffler that sounds the closest, and let the pipe guy install it with his pipes. > So the question is: "What is the manufacturer and part number of a muffler that sounds most like the original (deep,throaty & not that loud)?" Any responses appreciated. Thanks Alex 1958 TR3 TS33884LO 1968 GT6 KC10303 1976 TR6 CF51981U From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Oct 17 14:49:25 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 16:49:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Muffler question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201010171649.26124.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday, October 17, 2010 02:47:45 pm Alexander Delis wrote: > Group > > Got an email for a friend of mine who asked that I post this to the list > for your reactions. > > > Would you do me a favor re: the email list that you told me about? Now > > might be the time for me to replace the exhaust system. The engine and > transmission are out and I have all the rest of the car on the floor of my > garage. > > > I like the sound of the original TR6 exhaust system. I'm thinking that > > I'll > > get the muffler that sounds the closest, and let the pipe guy install it > with his pipes. > > > So the question is: "What is the manufacturer and part number of a > > muffler > > that sounds most like the original (deep,throaty & not that loud)?" > > Any responses appreciated. > > Thanks > > Alex > > > > 1958 TR3 TS33884LO > 1968 GT6 KC10303 > 1976 TR6 CF51981U > Alex, I am partial to Bell exhausts. I have Bell systems on all my Triumphs, the 58 3, 63 4 and now on my 72 TR6. The 6 system is SS complete from the manifold to the full dual mufflers. It is a sport system similar to what the big 3 sell (Falcon) but SS throughout. Fit was perfect as with all Bell systems. Sound has character but not loud. The Bell folks advertise that their systems are designed to sound and perform like the original systems offered by Triumph. Problem with the Bell system is it is pricey. Mine cost me about 625$ + shipping! But if you have the $ they are sure worth the cost. Bob From ElangTR4 at aol.com Sun Oct 17 16:14:57 2010 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 18:14:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Great day for a drive Message-ID: <12c3a6.6a1e9445.39eccf61@aol.com> Listers, The wife and I had the TR6 out today for drive to go for lunch. Put about 150 miles on it driving around central Ohio and the Mohican State Forest. Sixty degrees, sunny and beautiful! Perfect British sports car weather and probably not too many more like today this year in my area. Saw lots of people out with their toys, but no LBCs. Hope some of you were out on the road too. Eric 71 TR6 From thenicholls at verizon.net Sun Oct 17 16:15:55 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 17:15:55 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Muffler question Message-ID: <1471548.379687.1287353755853.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net> I would agree with that. I have the SS Bell system on my 1972 Triumph TR6, best fit, same sound, I puchased mine 5 years ago for around $500. Must have gone up. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Oct 17, 2010 04:51:44 PM, yellowtr at adelphia.net wrote: On Sunday, October 17, 2010 02:47:45 pm Alexander Delis wrote: > Group > > Got an email for a friend of mine who asked that I post this to the list > for your reactions. > > > Would you do me a favor re: the email list that you told me about? Now > > might be the time for me to replace the exhaust system. The engine and > transmission are out and I have all the rest of the car on the floor of my > garage. > > > I like the sound of the original TR6 exhaust system. I'm thinking that > > I'll > > get the muffler that sounds the closest, and let the pipe guy install it > with his pipes. > > > So the question is: "What is the manufacturer and part number of a > > muffler > > that sounds most like the original (deep,throaty & not that loud)?" > > Any responses appreciated. > > Thanks > > Alex > > > > 1958 TR3 TS33884LO > 1968 GT6 KC10303 > 1976 TR6 CF51981U > Alex, I am partial to Bell exhausts. I have Bell systems on all my Triumphs, the 58 3, 63 4 and now on my 72 TR6. The 6 system is SS complete from the manifold to the full dual mufflers. It is a sport system similar to what the big 3 sell (Falcon) but SS throughout. Fit was perfect as with all Bell systems. Sound has character but not loud. The Bell folks advertise that their systems are designed to sound and perform like the original systems offered by Triumph. Problem with the Bell system is it is pricey. Mine cost me about 625$ + shipping! But if you have the $ they are sure worth the cost. Bob _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Oct 17 16:29:42 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 18:29:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Great day for a drive In-Reply-To: <12c3a6.6a1e9445.39eccf61@aol.com> Message-ID: <4CBB4096.29408.19440990@localhost> On 17 Oct 2010 at 18:14, ElangTR4 at aol.com wrote: > The wife and I had the TR6 out today for drive to go for lunch. Indeed. Alas, my GT6 is still in pieces but I did manage 57.48 miles on a British machine, vintage 1973. (A Raleigh Gran Sport.) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wbeech at flash.net Sun Oct 17 16:46:33 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 16:46:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Lower Windscreen Seal In-Reply-To: <923245.40235.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <923245.40235.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6BF560088A87452988FD338622BD8C0C@bboffice> I tried that too, it doesn't work... Even though you were probably able to slide the old one out. Lay the seal out along the windscreen, be sure to have it facing the right way as it is directional, against the track of the windscreen. Then set one side of the lip of the seal into the track and work the other in with a dull flat screwdriver or putty knife. It goes fast and easy, I never thought it would until I actually did it. Enjoy! Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 9:17 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR3 Lower Windscreen Seal I am replacing my windscreen and putting in a new seal that goes on the bottom of the windscreen to the cowl. I am using dish soap as a lubricant and I can only get the seal to slide in about 3" before it binds up. I am tugging on it with a pair of pliers to get it coaxed in, but no luck. What's the trick? Can I install it sliding the big lip and then pushing the short part in with a screwdriver or something? Gotta get it fixed today so I can drive it to work tomorrow. TIA, Bill Brewer _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Sun Oct 17 16:46:33 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 16:46:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A (Late) Boot Seal In-Reply-To: <130993CA-90F2-4E6E-B4C9-718CACD2B2CA@mac.com> References: <000001cb6dff$fc2bad40$f48307c0$@net> <130993CA-90F2-4E6E-B4C9-718CACD2B2CA@mac.com> Message-ID: <81E54595EA0E47CAADFCBFF5AFB5AC5A@bboffice> Same here, out and at the top, but I had to lay a light coat of contact cement to keep it in place. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 8:53 AM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A (Late) Boot Seal Out toward the channel, and seam at the top. That's the way I was told seems to work fine on my 3A. Also I didn't use any glue to hold the seal in place, once it's pushed into the channel it pretty much stayed there. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun Oct 17 17:01:20 2010 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 19:01:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Lower Windscreen Seal In-Reply-To: <6BF560088A87452988FD338622BD8C0C@bboffice> References: <923245.40235.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <6BF560088A87452988FD338622BD8C0C@bboffice> Message-ID: <7C57861778404EBD8DD7A31979F7DFB4@AlexPC> Mine worked the same. I added one additional step. As you press in the edge with a dull instrument, apply masking tape over the seal and attach the tape to both sides of the glass. This keeps the part you just put in, in place. Don't ask how many attempts it took to figure this one out. When done, the tape comes right off. A little WD40 greases the entry, but use it sparingly. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "'William Brewer'" ; "'Triumphs'" Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 6:46 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Lower Windscreen Seal >I tried that too, it doesn't work... Even though you were probably able to > slide the old one out. > > Lay the seal out along the windscreen, be sure to have it facing the right > way as it is directional, against the track of the windscreen. Then set > one > side of the lip of the seal into the track and work the other in with a > dull > flat screwdriver or putty knife. > > It goes fast and easy, I never thought it would until I actually did it. > > Enjoy! > > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer > Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 9:17 AM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] TR3 Lower Windscreen Seal > > I am replacing my windscreen and putting in a new seal that goes on > the > bottom of the windscreen to the cowl. I am using dish soap as a lubricant > and I can only get the seal to slide in about 3" before it binds up. I am > tugging on it with a pair of pliers to get it coaxed in, but no luck. > What's > the trick? Can I install it sliding the big lip and then pushing the short > part in with a screwdriver or something? > Gotta get it fixed today so I can drive it to work tomorrow. > TIA, > > Bill Brewer > > _______________________________________________ From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 17 17:35:29 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 16:35:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Muffler question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <024801cb6e53$fc2a90a0$0301a8c0@randall> > > So the question is: "What is the manufacturer and part > number of a muffler > that sounds most like the original (deep,throaty & not that loud)?" FWIW, several times now I've gone to my local muffler shop (Allied Muffler in Bellflower, CA) and been quite happy with the results every time. The first TR3A system was just a bit on the loud side at first, but at his suggestion I added downturned tip which helped. When I took the TR3 in, I mentioned that the single system was a bit loud, so he built a two muffler system (just like the later factory exhaust), which is absolutely perfect. Deep & throaty, but not too loud. On the Stag, he used a single long glass pack on each side, which also sounded just right to me. Best of all, I didn't have to get dirty! I called for an appointment (which was usually "whenever you want") and the work only took him 30-45 minutes each time. The cost was also very modest, something like $200 for the dual muffler TR3 system. I think the mufflers were "Cherry Bomb" brand, but not sure on that point. The term has become somewhat generic for seamless glasspacks. They are just 'aluminized' mild steel, but the outer shell seems to last essentially forever. Generally they fail by letting the fiberglass blow out (but even that takes a long time). Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Oct 17 18:23:35 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 17:23:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Lower Windscreen Seal In-Reply-To: <7C57861778404EBD8DD7A31979F7DFB4@AlexPC> References: <923245.40235.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <6BF560088A87452988FD338622BD8C0C@bboffice> <7C57861778404EBD8DD7A31979F7DFB4@AlexPC> Message-ID: Those press-in methods sound proven but FWIW I was able to slide mine in by stretching it quite a bit as it went. I think the stretching sort of thinned out the part of the seal that fits the groove. A 2 person job with that method IIRC. Geo From wbeech at flash.net Sun Oct 17 22:44:03 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 22:44:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Head or crank? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9B7719FCD0B64C66A1F6DC928A3D260D@bboffice> John, Yes, it certainly could be from the rear of the valve cover running down to look like a rear crank seal problem. My advice, I hope you haven't pulled the motor just yet, is to clean it everything very carefully and watch to see just where the oil originates before tearing into the crank seal, perhaps needlessly. Wouldn't it be nice to have a faulty tappet cover gasket? Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 11:15 AM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: [TR] Head or crank? I am in the process of removing the motor from my "re-built" TR2 in an attempt to deal with a very heavy leak from between box and motor on tick-over. While stripping down I noticed a trail of oil from the back of the head, some gathering around the starter and more running down around the engine breather. Could the steady flow I saw dripping from the left side of the join between box and motor back plate while the motor was running be actually from the head. I should say there was a steady drip every second and this makes me believe it is unlikely to be from the head. Regards John _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Oct 18 05:54:02 2010 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 06:54:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Great day for a drive In-Reply-To: <4CBB4096.29408.19440990@localhost> References: <12c3a6.6a1e9445.39eccf61@aol.com> <4CBB4096.29408.19440990@localhost> Message-ID: Saturday and Sunday were great days for a drive. I managed to put 1030 miles on my TR6, and am now at VTR. Lots of nice cars here. Vroom Vroom Irv Korey On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 5:29 PM, Jim Muller wrote: > On 17 Oct 2010 at 18:14, ElangTR4 at aol.com wrote: > > > The wife and I had the TR6 out today for drive to go for lunch. > > Indeed. Alas, my GT6 is still in pieces but I did manage 57.48 miles > on a British machine, vintage 1973. (A Raleigh Gran Sport.) > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/emanteno at gmail.com From jdabars at att.net Mon Oct 18 06:55:22 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 05:55:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] PLEAZZE----report from JEKYLL ISLAND Message-ID: <969633.98625.qm@web83701.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> HOOSIER John here..did not make it to the island. How was the gettogether at the low country boil? If anyone there could give us "land lubbers" an update--blog- we be gratefull. You ALL have a good one. Any report on the sea gull excriment toss or the crockquette tourniment? John in Indiana / / / From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Oct 18 10:24:12 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:24:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gorilla Glue for Upholstery? In-Reply-To: <904817.46532.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <904817.46532.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 10:09 AM, William Brewer wrote: > I have a friend that put in the glued in interior parts (dash cover and > cappings) of his TR3 using Gorilla Glue. Previously, he had used contact > cement and it was all coming apart a few years later. So far, the GG looks > like it is working great. Has anyone else done this? Any downsides? > > -Bill in Tehachapi > I think it would work - but the issue I see is the stuff expands as it cures and I'm thinking that this could telegraph through the vinyl or leather covering. Of course, this is not an issue if you only use it on unseen edges. Holding it taught while it cures seems to be another issue that contact type cements solve. I'm a big fan of Gorilla glue so far - other than being sticky and messy, it's worked well for me in many cases. Chris From jdabars at att.net Mon Oct 18 11:15:47 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 10:15:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: happy halows eve Message-ID: <78514.1444.qm@web83702.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Janis Dabars To: John Dabars Sent: Mon, October 18, 2010 1:12:34 PM Subject: Fw: happy halows eve Subj: happy halows eve to all, everywhere. LIKE IT/let me know. Please click on below http://ak.imgag.com/imgag/product/preview/flash/bws8Shell.swf?ihost=htt p://ak.imgag.com/imgag&brandldrPath=/product/full/el/&cardNum=/product/full/a p/3125133/graphic1 From jdabars at att.net Mon Oct 18 12:03:37 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 11:03:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] WANTED: Report from/about Jekyll Island festivities WANTED/needed/requested. Message-ID: <819475.980.qm@web83701.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> SnicBraaapp, Vroom, vroom. Thanks Irv Korey, Windy Chi Town, about your very short report---loved it. I felt the pavement shake,rattle/ rumble and roll underneath. How can you take it for all those 1,000s of miles---top down all the way, WW II flying gogles, wind blown hair and a white scarf trailing in the wind???? Give us more reports, when you can. Any "see MORE blouses" on them thar belles/lassies??? On the way back, whenever, give me a shout as you approach Indianapolis. Maybe stop for a short break---I be a buying . SEND MESSAGE TO jdabars at att.net and I will send my fone number(somehow) for a hook up. Have you, by chance, met a Steve Oertwig from Hawaii via VA etc.? Dear Convention attendees, IFFFF u have a moment---feel free to report/blog as we want to be part of the happenings/festivities. Who is the furthest attendee--- Mike DeAndree from Guam---again? Let you go for now. BLOG ME. HOOSIER JOHN. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Oct 18 12:04:31 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 11:04:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head or crank? In-Reply-To: <9B7719FCD0B64C66A1F6DC928A3D260D@bboffice> References: <9B7719FCD0B64C66A1F6DC928A3D260D@bboffice> Message-ID: On 10/17/10, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > ...My advice, I hope you haven't pulled > the motor just yet, is to clean it everything very carefully and watch to > see just where the oil originates... A technique I have heard of but never had occasion to try is to spray (aerosol) foot powder over the suspect area after cleaning. The idea is that any leak will be very evident. I have never had occasion to try this because I pretty much know where my engine leaks -- everywhere. From jdabars at att.net Mon Oct 18 12:18:10 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 11:18:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: Fwd: happy halows eve Message-ID: <622926.96272.qm@web83705.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Janis Dabars Sent: Sun, October 17, 2010 10:02:42 AM Subject: Fw: Fwd: happy halows eve ke Subj: happy halows eve >http://ak.imgag.com/imgag/product/preview/flash/bws8Shell.swf?ihost=http://ak.imgag.com/imgag&brandldrPath=/product/full/el/&cardNum=/product/full/ap/3125133/graphic1 From tr4zest at gmail.com Mon Oct 18 12:59:14 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 14:59:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hoosier John Message-ID: You didn't get the Triumph van to Jekyll Island, John? What happened? I hope it is in better shape than the one left in a field for 40 years that you sent around... Brian From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Oct 18 15:49:24 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 17:49:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A bonnet latch/lift re-ass'y Message-ID: <790132EA54574F428204F79FCDCBF109@valued9cfc0b6f> I'm trying to reassemble my"taken apart" and resprayed (and now in need of another...) spring/latch/lift mechanism for the bonnet catch that attaches to the top of the apron with no luck. I've done it before but drawing a blank...Any ideas for a "painless" reassembly, been at it for awhile with no luck... thanks Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Oct 18 16:55:53 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 18:55:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Test please delete Message-ID: <201010181855.53747.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Test From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Mon Oct 18 19:11:16 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 20:11:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Test please delete In-Reply-To: <201010181855.53747.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201010181855.53747.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: I'm not sure, but I think I passed!! Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: yellowtr at adelphia.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 18:55:53 -0400 > Subject: [TR] Test please delete > > Test > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Oct 18 20:49:13 2010 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 22:49:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Brake Lights Message-ID: <0D35997CF1F24829B0B4E87E78B93C33@OwnerPC> Long time, no see Are my brake lights on my TR3 suppose to come on only with the ignition switch turned on? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 18 21:06:28 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 20:06:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Brake Lights In-Reply-To: <0D35997CF1F24829B0B4E87E78B93C33@OwnerPC> References: <0D35997CF1F24829B0B4E87E78B93C33@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <045501cb6f3a$9fa220e0$0301a8c0@randall> > Are my brake lights on my TR3 suppose to come on only with > the ignition > switch turned on? Yes. That way, the brake light wiring can be protected by the same fuse that covers the turn signals, wiper motor, etc (all of which only operate when the key is on). It also reduces the chances of a dead battery, if the brake light switch should happen to get stuck on for some reason. (Never seen it on a Triumph, but it did happen to a non-LBC that I owned). Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Oct 19 06:11:07 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 08:11:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Test please delete In-Reply-To: References: <201010181855.53747.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <201010190811.08716.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday, October 18, 2010 09:11:16 pm you wrote: > I'm not sure, but I think I passed!! > > > Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA > '63 TR3B TCF587L Rich, The reason I sent this is I recently had a problem with my provider Roadrunner. As you can see from my email domain I used to be with Adelphia but they went broke and were absorbed by Time Warner. Most Time Warner email users use the domain roadrunner.com but mine stayed adelphia.net. I recently had to do some maintenance on my account and when I did I had to use the roadrunner.com domain and now their servers have me confused between yellowtr at adelphia.net and yellowtr at roadrunner.com. Seems I have 2 email addresses and sometimes when I send email from web mail the sending address is yellowtr at roadrunner.com, but when I use SMTP from my Kmail, it uses yellowtr at adelphia.net. Since our list servers check the posters email address before distributing the message, I wanted to make sure when I posted a message to triumphs and 6-pack that it worked. Even though I am a software engineer I am getting a bit tired of the problems the Internet can cause with hackers, exploits, spam etc. I may have to go off the Internet grid one of these days. Bob From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 19 06:48:39 2010 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 05:48:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 6 cyl Camshaft Poll Message-ID: <57258.52014.qm@web120516.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I recently asked for experiences and opinions on 6 cyl camshafts on the 6-Pack list and didn't receive as many responses as I had hoped for, so I thought I would address this list with the same question. For those people who are on both lists, I apologize and ask that you just skip over this email. I am in the process of laying out the rebuild of my 2.5L 6-cyl and am trying to decide which cam would be best for my use. I know this is a grey area for many people and opinion is easier than fact, but I think the members of this list are probably the best resource available to help me decide. This is going to be for a street car, not a track runner. I live in an area with lots of hills and winding roads, which I prefer over highway running. Here's what I have decided so far: I have the late model engine & head which will be balanced and blueprinted with the head ported and CR raised to 9.5:1 or 10:1, and an aluminum flywheel and fan eliminator added; I plan on the 1.65:1 roller rocker setup; I'll be adding EFI (haven't decided on a system yet, but leaning towards MPI over TBI) & an EDIS system; 6-3-1 headers w/ free-flow exhaust system. I already have an A-Type overdrive for those times I will be cruising on the freeway. My early favorites are the TR5 profile, Richard Good's GP2 or TSI's S-2. The 6-Pack list query has brought another cam into consideration: Isky Z-19. If you have another cam you're really happy with, please suggest it, or give me your experiences with the above. I will report the results (and my decision) once I have received all responses. Thanks in advance, Raymond L. Hatfield From mark at bradakis.com Tue Oct 19 07:56:03 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 07:56:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Test please delete In-Reply-To: <201010190811.08716.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201010181855.53747.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <201010190811.08716.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <4CBDA373.9060901@bradakis.com> > I recently had to do some maintenance on my account and when I did I had to > use the roadrunner.com domain and now their servers have me confused between > yellowtr at adelphia.net and yellowtr at roadrunner.com. Seems I have 2 email > addresses and sometimes when I send email from web mail the sending address is > yellowtr at roadrunner.com, but when I use SMTP from my Kmail, it uses > yellowtr at adelphia.net. > > Since our list servers check the posters email address before distributing the > message, I wanted to make sure when I posted a message to triumphs and 6-pack > that it worked. > > One can subscribe multiple addresses to the lists, and select the 'no mail' delivery option for all but one of the addresses. This way you can send from multiple addresses and pass the server tests, and not have to get multiple copies of each list message. mjb. From tom628 at verizon.net Tue Oct 19 09:33:26 2010 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 11:33:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] 6 cyl Camshaft Poll References: <57258.52014.qm@web120516.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <47675A8A95F6436D9D3D80CA00813C74@Toms> Raymond: I have the Isky Z-19, and like it very much for a street cam. Good midrange torque, and have run it up to 6K rpm, tho it's happier up to about 5500. However, its full potential was not realized until I converted to Goodparts triple ZS carb set-up. I don't think the flow thru the stock manifold is very efficient in the way it's split across all 6 cyls. I don't know if injection would cure that if it stays with only 2 intakes. JMO. Good luck; should be fun. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Raymond Hatfield" To: Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 8:48 AM Subject: [TR] 6 cyl Camshaft Poll >I recently asked for experiences and opinions on 6 cyl camshafts on the >6-Pack list and didn't receive as many responses as I had hoped for, so I >thought I would address this list with the same question. For those people >who are on both lists, I apologize and ask that you just skip over this >email. > > I am in the process of laying out the rebuild of my 2.5L 6-cyl and am > trying to decide which cam would be best for my use. I know this is a grey > area for many people and opinion is easier than fact, but I think the > members of this list are probably the best resource available to help me > decide. > > This is going to be for a street car, not a track runner. I live in an > area with lots of hills and winding roads, which I prefer over highway > running. > > Here's what I have decided so far: > I have the late model engine & head which will be balanced and blueprinted > with the head ported and CR raised to 9.5:1 or 10:1, and an aluminum > flywheel and fan eliminator added; I plan on the 1.65:1 roller rocker > setup; I'll be adding EFI (haven't decided on a system yet, but leaning > towards MPI over TBI) & an EDIS system; 6-3-1 headers w/ free-flow exhaust > system. I already have an A-Type overdrive for those times I will be > cruising on the freeway. > > My early favorites are the TR5 profile, Richard Good's GP2 or TSI's S-2. > The 6-Pack list query has brought another cam into consideration: Isky > Z-19. If you have another cam you're really happy with, please suggest it, > or give me your experiences with the above. I will report the results > (and my decision) once I have received all responses. > > Thanks in advance, > Raymond L. Hatfield > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Tue Oct 19 12:37:30 2010 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 14:37:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Convention Update, Link to Photos In-Reply-To: <47675A8A95F6436D9D3D80CA00813C74@Toms> References: <57258.52014.qm@web120516.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <47675A8A95F6436D9D3D80CA00813C74@Toms> Message-ID: Hi everyone, All going well down here. Welcome reception was last night, great food. Carving station with tenderloin was the hit, and had the longest lines. Before that was my tech session on tips for photographing your car, with Moss Motors donating a $50 gift certificate for a photo contest that anyone here can enter. Then Ted Schumacher had his tech session, lots of good info, as always. The Brew Swap was just before the welcome party. What started as 6-8 guys standing around a smallish room in Detroit in 2008 has turned into a MAJOR event on the schedule. I'd bet there was 75% of everyone here wandering in and out of the room and onto the great Souther-style porch of the cottage. Lots of local brews, lots of home brews and a tasting contest. Six entrants brought their home brew, everyone could taste in a small cup and then vote. Voting was close but Tom Fansher's "Tom's Special Sponge Brew" was voted the winner. Big thanks to Marty Sukey for organizing this fun event. Today was a tech session on tips to prep your car for a show. The guy was amazing. He has tested every product you can imagine and shared with us which he liked best and why. One example was a product only sold in marine stores for cleaning wire wheels. Cool info. Right now Tony Vigliotti of Ratco is doing a session on the weaknesses of the TR6 frame and how you can strengthen it. There are two displays from the New York Auto Show. One is a cut-away, fully articulated/operational, Stag engine and a full-sized back axle of the "new" IRS suspension. Both are electric and demonstrate the features of each. I doubt the've been seen since the show in 1971 or 1972. The Group 44 GT6 is here, it arrived yesterday and as you might expect was a huge hit. It got a ton of attention as it was parked just outside the brew swap. Dave Massey has been playing the bagpipes, the weather is 85-degrees, no humidity, and sunshine all day. Bob Tullius is expected to fly in today. Looks like 175-185 registrations with about 200 cars. The convention made the front page of the local paper today with three pictures of the Funkhana. Nice coverage. One of the shots featured Paul Higley and Duncan Wood with Paul wearing a baby blue blindfold behind the wheel while Duncan was guiding him through the course from the passenger seat . Rumor is that a TV station is coming out as well either today or tomorrow. I uploaded a small gallery of pics I shot this morning as people were heading out for the TSD rally at http://vtr.org/VTR2010gallery1/ if you care to take a look. Cheers from sunny Georgia! Blake Discher From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Oct 19 13:06:57 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 12:06:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 New Windshield Bubbling Message-ID: <484568.42106.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> So, I installed a new windshield over the weekend and used dish soap as a lubricant. After installing the glass, I washed the soap off with a garden hose. This morning driving to work in the rain, the windshield was blowing soap bubbles on the car. Truth is stranger than fiction. Bill in Tehachapi From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Oct 19 13:15:46 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 12:15:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Windscreen Frame to Cowl Seal Install Message-ID: <192050.99455.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> This weekend I was installing a new seal between the windscreen and the cowl. For me, the silver bullet was to have someone pull on one end while I pulled to install the other. This made the seal longer and thinner and it slid in fairly easily. I was pulling with some Channelocks, which eventually tore the seal (trimmed off later). If I were to do it again I would have used clamps with a piece of wood on each side to distribute the pressure. We also put the end of the seal in a vise with my friend pulling the other end hard (to make it thinner) and I was able to slide the bottom frame along with some degree of ease. I narrowly averted shipwright's disease. I thought "Gee, I should have it all re-chromed while it is apart". Also, one of the machine screws through the stanchion to the windscreen frame is broken off in the threads. I thought "I might as well try to fix this now". I left it and just enjoyed having a new windscreen and seals. I am amazed at how much better it is driving with the top up now. It used to leak cold air and water in the winter. Much better. Bill in Tehachapi From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 19 16:56:26 2010 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 15:56:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 6 cyl Camshaft Poll In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <356484.82531.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Raymond- I ran a Kent "Fast Road" cam in a '75 TR6 a number of years back. It had a milled head (about 1/8") and stock Z-S Carbs with a Pacesetter header. It was a SCREAMER! I absolutely loved the way that engine sounded. In fact, I plan to put the same cam in my TR250. It had a nice lope at idle and pulled strong until I let off the gas pedal. Chad in Tulsa ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 05:48:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Raymond Hatfield Subject: [TR] 6 cyl Camshaft Poll To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <57258.52014.qm at web120516.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I recently asked for experiences and opinions on 6 cyl camshafts on the 6-Pack list and didn't receive as many responses as I had hoped for, so I thought I would address this list with the same question. For those people who are on both lists, I apologize and ask that you just skip over this email. I am in the process of laying out the rebuild of my 2.5L 6-cyl and am trying to decide which cam would be best for my use. I know this is a grey area for many people and opinion is easier than fact, but I think the members of this list are probably the best resource available to help me decide. This is going to be for a street car, not a track runner. I live in an area with lots of hills and winding roads, which I prefer over highway running. Here's what I have decided so far: I have the late model engine & head which will be balanced and blueprinted with the head ported and CR raised to 9.5:1 or 10:1, and an aluminum flywheel and fan eliminator added; I plan on the 1.65:1 roller rocker setup; I'll be adding EFI (haven't decided on a system yet, but leaning towards MPI over TBI) & an EDIS system; 6-3-1 headers w/ free-flow exhaust system. I already have an A-Type overdrive for those times I will be cruising on the freeway. My early favorites are the TR5 profile, Richard Good's GP2 or TSI's S-2. The 6-Pack list query has brought another cam into consideration: Isky Z-19. If you have another cam you're really happy with, please suggest it, or give me your experiences with the above. I will report the results (and my decision) once I have received all responses. Thanks in advance, Raymond L. Hatfield From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Oct 19 19:19:54 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 20:19:54 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety Message-ID: <799165700.407768.1287537595021.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net> Brake master cylinder, servo unit were sourced from Moss. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Oct 15, 2010 08:51:23 PM, dlylis at gmail.com wrote: Please find out where the replacement parts came from and post here. Frankly, I am concerned about the quality of some of the parts out there, and we are talking brakes. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 18:19:57 To: Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety Done. Not only does the servo not work correctly, I have fluid coming out from the master cylinder CAP. This happened to me last Sunday at a car show, and it took me 20 minutes to get the cap off and one blister. Cleaned up, put cap on gently, and tonight there is more fluid leaking from the CAP. Attempted to remove it again, have another blister, and it is still not off. It is clearly also defective. I have asked them to replace both parts at their expense and do a quality control check to make sure the servo is good and that a human can acutally remove the cap that never leaked on the original part when I took it in. Thanks Aaron, Craig Oct 15, 2010 06:19:36 PM, acekraut11 at aol.com wrote: Craig, My brakes work the exact same each time. You absolutely should take the car back again, and again, until they get it right. If necessary they should replace the servo and see if that is the problem. Regardless, you have been lucky a couple times. It could happen again when you try to brake because someone stops quickly in front of you or a kid runs out in front of you. You might not be as lucky the next time. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Oct 15, 2010 5:47 pm Subject: [TR] New brake master and servo question/issue/safety To the list, 1972 Triumph TR6, returned from some work at local British car shop. Had leaking brake master cylinder. They evaluated the brake master, it was toast. Evaluated servo unit, it was full of fluid. They do not do rebuilds. So, new master, new brake server, new fluid, bled the brakes. Drove for a week, was really surprised on how soft the brake was since before the repair it was hard as a rock. The servo is nice and gives you better control of brake pressure. Issue, went to a car show last weekend about 45 miles out. Came back, got off the highway, came to the first stoplight, pressed on the brakes and I had no servo assist. Did get stopped but just barely. Notified the shop, they have a 45 day parts and labor warranty and they were very nice as always. So, I have been driving the car as much as possible to test it out. The servo has cut out on me maybe 4 times in the past two weeks, usually if I come off the brake and then go back in, it is ok. Where I have had a problem is coming home tonight pulling into a parking spot, hit the brakes, no assist and I almost hit the concrete in front of me. I am concerned by the fact that I do not do brakes because they need to be right and I drive both of my kids in the car. When I hit the brakes, I expect them to be the same each time I hit them. This issue seems to be (at least to me) related to the vacuum boost that comes from the engine because it seems to happen the most at low speed. What do you say list? Should I expect the brakes to react and "feel" the same each time I depress them with this new equipment or is it another one of those fun "British car things". Any input is appreciated, if it is not right, I will let them deal with it. Thanks, Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com From mipcar at iprimus.com.au Wed Oct 20 00:13:37 2010 From: mipcar at iprimus.com.au (Mychael Carr) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 17:13:37 +1100 Subject: [TR] Chassis modification Message-ID: I have a partly restored TR3 chassis to which I'd like to fit the re-enforcing gussets as were put on the rally/race cars. I've found some references to them and a few photos but need more specifications/drawings/photos. Can anyone assist me? Thanks, Mychael From pethier at comcast.net Wed Oct 20 08:44:21 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 14:44:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Andy Packard, paging Andy Packard In-Reply-To: <799165700.407768.1287537595021.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <799842808.73981.1287585861625.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Andy, please send me a private email. If anyone has contact information for TR driver Andy Packard, please send it via private mail. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Wed Oct 20 09:17:45 2010 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 10:17:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 New Windshield Bubbling In-Reply-To: <484568.42106.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <484568.42106.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The same thing happened to me when I replaced the windscreen seal on my old 911. It was a surreal experience to have bubbles blowing into the cockpit from around the windscreen. Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com Service for your British classic - MG * Triumph * Austin Healey * Sunbeam ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 2:06 Subject: [TR] TR3 New Windshield Bubbling > So, I installed a new windshield over the weekend and used dish soap > as a lubricant. After installing the glass, I washed the soap off with a > garden hose. This morning driving to work in the rain, the windshield was > blowing soap bubbles on the car. > Truth is stranger than fiction. > > Bill in Tehachapi > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tgeiger at geigergarage.com From magnut_dan at hotmail.com Wed Oct 20 12:33:16 2010 From: magnut_dan at hotmail.com (Daniel Shockey) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 18:33:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Tech Info In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello, List, I am a new owner of a 1980 Spitfire. Can you refer me to good sites for tech articles? Thanks much, Dan, in Illinois From pethier at comcast.net Wed Oct 20 12:54:29 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 18:54:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] VTR Convention Update, Link to Photos In-Reply-To: <543001559.91344.1287600857012.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1506426110.91356.1287600869200.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > There are two displays from the New York Auto Show. One is a > cut-away, fully > articulated/operational, Stag engine Wow. Wish we were there. Had to choose between the LOG and VTR this year and the closer/earlier convention won out. I did my first full track day at Lotus Owners Gathering and that was interesting. Did you know there is a full-scale copy of the Nurburgring Caracciola Karussell in West Virgina? Drove it many times, since I didn't have to wait 14 miles for it to come up again. Thanks for the photos, and I'm looking forward to more! See you all in Colorado for the VTR in 2011! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Oct 20 13:38:51 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 12:38:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rosey Retirement Message-ID: Hi folks, Well AnnaBelle and I have decided to end our SCCA Judged Concours Events ... me being 76 years old ... (Fred beats me by a few days) it is just too much work to prepare Rosey our 1970 TR6. Sooo we are adding a few things that make it nicer (for us). One is the Triumph Tune Black Epoxy cast aluminum valve cover. Which puts the Original valve cover, concours condition, possibly available for someone interested, listed in the Moss catalog as NA (not available) gives me NO clue as to it's value, if it even has value. If you are interested, and have a number in mind give us a message. And there might be a set of green ignition wires, also concours quality, in the near future. Thanks for listening ... -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1970 TR6 "Rosey" CC59179L Wallace, CA From guy at genfiniti.com Wed Oct 20 13:39:10 2010 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 14:39:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wiring Harness Message-ID: <7BC6B975-7E33-465D-9A91-0FC116B9628A@genfiniti.com> Listers, I am seriously thinking of purchasing and installing the Advanced Auto Wire kit as part of my TR4A restoration. What do those who have made this same decision think about the kit? What are the gotchas, etc? I'm wanting to learn more about the good, bad and ugly of this kit. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Oct 20 13:49:59 2010 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 15:49:59 EDT Subject: [TR] Coil Spring Spacers Message-ID: List, Has anyone used coil spring spacers on the front springs of a TR6 to raise the ride height by approx 3/4" to 1"? I've seen them used successfully on the rear coils of a 6. Evidently the pro's of doing this are quick installation and relatively low cost; the con's would be perhaps an increase in ride harshness since you've effectively taking away some of the spring's rebound space...... Thoughts? Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Wed Oct 20 13:53:29 2010 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 15:53:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wiring Harness In-Reply-To: <7BC6B975-7E33-465D-9A91-0FC116B9628A@genfiniti.com> References: <7BC6B975-7E33-465D-9A91-0FC116B9628A@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: I have one in my TR3A & think it is by far the single best thing I have done to the car. The instructions are very well done & the tech support was great. I asked for guidance on how to wire in a couple of custom items & got a wiring diagram showing the best way to make it work. On the down side, the car is now as reliable as my wife's Honda! :-) John > I am seriously thinking of purchasing and installing the Advanced Auto Wire > kit as part of my TR4A restoration. > What do those who have made this same John A. Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Oct 20 14:36:40 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 16:36:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wiring Harness In-Reply-To: <7BC6B975-7E33-465D-9A91-0FC116B9628A@genfiniti.com> References: <7BC6B975-7E33-465D-9A91-0FC116B9628A@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <51F4C09C1E294929B6505C16CD57B03E@BobPC> Guy, Because of its length this may not show up on the Mail List........ I've got one of the first TR6 harnesses that Dan offered 6 years ago and I've documented the whole installation on my site http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Wire_Harness_1.htm including what tools I recommend buying. The one tool I didn't get and wish I had are the bullet pliers that snaps bullets into connectors. There's a lot of bullets in awkward places and this tool would have made things a lot easier. Make sure you download the AAW wire schematic for the stock TR6 harness to use as a comparison to the new wire harness schematic. I was always going between the two diagrams. The schematic is free and can be downloaded here http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf In 6 years, the only time I've blown a fuse is when I didn't disconnect the battery before doing any work up under the dash. I can run the heater fan, lights, radiator fan and radio and the voltmeter hardly moves at all. You may hear some bad stuff about orders not getting fulfilled a few years ago, but that all happened when Dan's son Mike had the business. Mike suddenly died a couple of years ago and Steve Carrington took over the business, fulfilled all the back orders and has the business back on solid ground. Pros: - Exceptional quality - designed by Dan Masters and no one knows more about LBC electronics then Dan - enough wire and instructions for every conceivable option you could ever install - up-rated wire for every wire run - enough lengths of wire to let you decide how you want to run the wire - power block has plenty of fuses and relays - excellent instructions - excellent support Cons: - It's not a difficult job but it's a BIG job as just about every piece of wire in the car gets replaced so you have to go about it in an organized way. - the power block is "big" and requires sufficient space for mounting. I mounted it in the engine compartment where access is easy. Other have tucked them upside down in the passenger foot well which makes it much harder to work on. - the assumption is that you will be installing an upgraded Delco alternator and only connections and instructions are provided for that. - Because all the wires are up-rated (i.e. thicker) from stock, they take up more room in the car and take up more room so planning wire runs is important. - It's a lot of wire to wrap with harness tape ;-) - The only things I ran out of was black ground wire (because of the way I choose to group grounds for easier trouble shooting) and some connectors (easily available from British Wiring). Again, this was because of the way I choose to run and group wires. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Guy D. Huggins" Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 3:39 PM To: Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wiring Harness > Listers, > > I am seriously thinking of purchasing and installing the Advanced Auto > Wire > kit as part of my TR4A restoration. > What do those who have made this same decision think about the kit? > What are the gotchas, etc? > > I'm wanting to learn more about the good, bad and ugly of this kit. From dave at ranteer.com Wed Oct 20 15:10:30 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 16:10:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re: Dan Masters Wiring Harness In-Reply-To: <51F4C09C1E294929B6505C16CD57B03E@BobPC> References: <7BC6B975-7E33-465D-9A91-0FC116B9628A@genfiniti.com> <51F4C09C1E294929B6505C16CD57B03E@BobPC> Message-ID: <85365834A7D04049826093064D089089@ranteer.local> ?I'm going to add something here. I've got an old japanese car, and it uses a mixture of bullet connectors and snap together connectors. I got rid of the bullets, and use only the snap together. I also have a tr6 and an mgb. as I redo wiring in them, I also am switching over. if you are going to redo your wiring harness, and I know this may be heresy, lose the bullet connectors. I'm sorry; I think they're awful. I got my snap together connectors at http://www.vintageconnections.com/ and I think they are soooo much better to work with. just my 2c From jdabars at att.net Wed Oct 20 16:38:55 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 15:38:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Very RARE TRIUMPH ---YES a TRIUMPH not an ATLAS as sold in UK Message-ID: <869318.69345.qm@web83709.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Subject: Fw: All of them ATLAS/TRIUMPH My latest project, ground up restoration,\. Found it in Picton, Ontario, Canada Very rare. Only 4 known to exist in North America --- [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN1.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN2.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN3.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN4.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN5.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN6.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN7.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN8.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN9.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN10.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of LVAN11.jpg] From jdabars at att.net Wed Oct 20 17:44:54 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 16:44:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] REPORT from Blake. in Georgia, VTR Nationals Message-ID: <907630.37139.qm@web83703.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> THANK YOU BLAKE. Appreciate the heads up reporting---that is why you are the head of VTR. More would be nice, if you have time. Please tell Ronnie and Joe that the Hoosier delegation, to the convention, cede the Sea Gull dried excrement toss challange to the GTA for nonshowing up. We shall settle up at a latter time Keep them thaar reports coming. "Hoosier John" From pcaffrey at ymail.com Wed Oct 20 18:36:36 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 17:36:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] New Alternator for TR4A Message-ID: <445337.58042.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> List, I had an alternator installed as part of my restoration. It appears to be working fine, but I can't figure out the logic of the Amp gauge/meter. For example, when I started the car today the Amp meter showed a bit negative from zero. I turned the headlights on and the meter went to around -10; then, stepped on the brakes and hit the blinkers, and it went to almost -20. After about 5 minutes of idling, the meter jumped to about +20. It then remained in the positive at about +10. Is this normal behavior for an alternator? Why doesn't the meter always show plus or at least zero? Thanks for any feedback. Pat TR4A '67 1CTC/72746-L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 20 19:21:12 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 18:21:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] New Alternator for TR4A In-Reply-To: <445337.58042.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <445337.58042.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <035201cb70be$41014310$c303c930$@rr.com> > Is this normal behavior for an alternator? No. > Why > doesn't the meter always show plus or at least zero? Something is wrong; an intermittent connection at some point. I would start by double-checking belt tightness, then the grounds between the alternator, mount, engine, body and battery. It might even be worth temporarily running a heavy gauge cable between the engine (eg a manifold bolt) and the bolt that attaches the battery ground to the body. Keep in mind that paint does not conduct, a good connection requires metal-to-metal contact. One way to achieve that without having to scrape off that expensive paint is to use "star" lockwashers at every electrical connection. The points of the lockwasher will usually dig through the paint to find bare metal. I'm assuming that the "ignition" warning light on the dash has been connected properly and appears to work, ie comes on with the key and goes off when the engine starts. -- Randall From pcaffrey at ymail.com Wed Oct 20 19:59:37 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 18:59:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] New Alternator for TR4A In-Reply-To: <035201cb70be$41014310$c303c930$@rr.com> References: <445337.58042.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <035201cb70be$41014310$c303c930$@rr.com> Message-ID: <784698.58799.qm@web59701.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Randall and Michael, I don't know the make of the alternator off-hand. There is a pic or 2 below. It is connected to the regulator (not internal to the alternator)....The ignition light has not worked since I got the car home. I thought perhaps a bulb (hoping anyway). If the red light doesn't come on, does that point to the problem I'm having with the unusual Amp meter readings? Thank you, Pat http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/TR%20Visit/ ________________________________ From: Randall To: list Triumph Sent: Wed, October 20, 2010 6:21:12 PM Subject: Re: [TR] New Alternator for TR4A > Is this normal behavior for an alternator? No. > Why > doesn't the meter always show plus or at least zero? Something is wrong; an intermittent connection at some point. I would start by double-checking belt tightness, then the grounds between the alternator, mount, engine, body and battery. It might even be worth temporarily running a heavy gauge cable between the engine (eg a manifold bolt) and the bolt that attaches the battery ground to the body. Keep in mind that paint does not conduct, a good connection requires metal-to-metal contact. One way to achieve that without having to scrape off that expensive paint is to use "star" lockwashers at every electrical connection. The points of the lockwasher will usually dig through the paint to find bare metal. I'm assuming that the "ignition" warning light on the dash has been connected properly and appears to work, ie comes on with the key and goes off when the engine starts. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com From davidt at opentext.com Wed Oct 20 20:06:13 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 22:06:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR's on TV Message-ID: Just watching Discovery Channel's Massive Engines, a tr2 is featured J. Unfortunately, not pointed out as such, but still nice to see. David Templeton '59 TR3a '74 Spitsix From wbeech at flash.net Wed Oct 20 22:17:09 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 22:17:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR's on TV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <94213E8EFD6647678D357FE1557F9CE5@bboffice> Massive Engines? Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 8:06 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR's on TV Just watching Discovery Channel's Massive Engines, a tr2 is featured J. Unfortunately, not pointed out as such, but still nice to see. David Templeton '59 TR3a '74 Spitsix _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From davidt at opentext.com Wed Oct 20 22:23:24 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 00:23:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR's on TV In-Reply-To: <94213E8EFD6647678D357FE1557F9CE5@bboffice> References: <94213E8EFD6647678D357FE1557F9CE5@bboffice> Message-ID: Yeah, they were talking about the napier W-12 engine before WWII and the fact the racing body after the war wanted smaller engines and limited the displacement to something like 4L. At that point the narrator got into the '2 ( green with red interior, english plate on the top of the nose ), and drove away David -----Original Message----- From: wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2010 12:17 AM To: David Templeton; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR's on TV Massive Engines? Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 8:06 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR's on TV Just watching Discovery Channel's Massive Engines, a tr2 is featured J. Unfortunately, not pointed out as such, but still nice to see. David Templeton '59 TR3a '74 Spitsix _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Wed Oct 20 22:28:45 2010 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 00:28:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Convention - More Photos In-Reply-To: <01ed01cb6fe8$b7be9f10$273bdd30$@rr.com> References: <57258.52014.qm@web120516.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <47675A8A95F6436D9D3D80CA00813C74@Toms> <01ed01cb6fe8$b7be9f10$273bdd30$@rr.com> Message-ID: <04BA27C8-6E4D-4198-8A91-444EF7C464AD@blakedischer.com> No update word wise, auction tonight, beat. Here are more pics though. http://vtr.org/VTR2010gallery2/ Autocross Thursday. Cheers, Blake From mark at bradakis.com Wed Oct 20 23:37:55 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 23:37:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Convention - More Photos In-Reply-To: <04BA27C8-6E4D-4198-8A91-444EF7C464AD@blakedischer.com> References: <57258.52014.qm@web120516.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <47675A8A95F6436D9D3D80CA00813C74@Toms> <01ed01cb6fe8$b7be9f10$273bdd30$@rr.com> <04BA27C8-6E4D-4198-8A91-444EF7C464AD@blakedischer.com> Message-ID: <4CBFD1B3.40104@bradakis.com> I was wondering when an Acclaim would show up at VTR! Wish I was there. mjb. From diggle at clear.net.nz Thu Oct 21 02:34:25 2010 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim Vassiliadis) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 21:34:25 +1300 Subject: [TR] Silicon Brake fluid Message-ID: <0D2A3B71E74740858F1BE8ADB38160CE@athlon> I intend on changing to silicon brake fluid (dot 5) and red the Buckeye tech report on compatibility with the glycol (dot 4) based ones. Apparently small amounts of the dot 4 will not upset the dot 5 fluid. What is the best way to remove the dot 4 without taking the pipes off and blowing air through them? Also how do I bench test my Lockheed brake servo which my friend overhauled prior to installing it on my TR? The reason for pretesting is that I was told that even if the bore was honed it could still have micro pitting which might cause the servo to leak fluid back into the master cylinder. Jim and the black 62 TR4. From jdabars at att.net Thu Oct 21 07:46:49 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 06:46:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] VERY sad picture of a TR-10 Message-ID: <759498.44655.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> PICTURE SHOWS what father time does to exposed "British" rare 1958 TR-10 Companion(Station Wagon) This vehicle is located just south of French Lick, southern Indiana and has been resting in the woods since 1970 where the presant owner parked it, until he gets around to fix it. That day has not come and owner decided to sell this rare British machine. Asking price is a FIRM $400. Am afraid to move it as it is most likely to disintigrate. VERY few "bits and pieces" are salvagable, maybe a mirror, an ashtray or a door handle. The "car" has sunk into the earth approximately 2 and a half feet. Shame to see such a sad demise of "British steel". OH, owner has title for it. John Dabars, VTR #6,500 Indianapolis, ("Racing Capital of the World") INDIANA. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpg which had a name of R1-04891-008A.jpg] From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Thu Oct 21 08:41:22 2010 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 07:41:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 6 cyl Camshaft results Message-ID: <124592.11733.qm@web120518.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> As promised, here is the latest results from my 'poll': * a total of 14 people responded to my questions. * 4 people give strong recommendations for the Isky Z-19 one person said they got 140 rwhp w/12:1 CR and other mods * 3 people said they were happy with the GP2 cam one person described as mild, but was able to get 110 rwhp w/9.5:1 CR * 1 person said they were happy with the S-2 cam * 1 person said they were happy with the TR5 cam, but warned the power didn't come on until 3K rpm * 1 person liked the Kent 'Fast Road' cam * 1 person liked the stock cam w/1.65:1 rockers - said it really transformed the performance * other cams recommended: BPNW's BP270 - described as mild, but was capable of 124 rwhp w10:1 CR " BP285 - better, with more lift and torque GoodParts GP-3 - good power - 130 rwhp w/10:1 CR & 1.65:1 rockers TSI 275-6 Intregral Cams - (http://www.integralcams.com/) Oregon Cams - 1396 for street, 1313 for autox(http://www.pacifier.com/~orcam/Mechanical-Cam-Specs.html) and one that's in development by Tilden Cams which looks very promising. (http://www.tildentechnologies.com/index.html) I appreciate all the input, lot's of good information given. Other point brought out were: Head work is critical for best performance. Stock manifolds are very restrictive - best performance from any cam will not be realized until intake is improved. Most recommended a CR of 9.5:1 for a street car. Mixed results on the 1.65 rockers After all this input, I think my top 3 are now the Z-19, TSI275-6 or the new Tilden cam. First thing I'm going to do is to find out about the Tilden before I make a final choice. Raymond L. Hatfield From jdabars at att.net Thu Oct 21 08:18:07 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 07:18:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: RARE TRIUMPH VAN Message-ID: <259589.11399.qm@web83710.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Dear List, Meny have asked for pictures of my TRIUMPH VAN. Yes a TRIUMPH VAN---NOT ATLAS as in UK. Trying to trace history for it---anyone have facts, figures, history. Appreciate any leads jdabars at att.net Indianapolis, Indiana, U.S.A. ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Janis Dabars To: John Dabars Sent: Thu, October 21, 2010 3:00:28 AM Subject: RARE TRIUMPH VAN CLICK ON THIS http://www.fairpoint.net/~herald948/database/gallery.htm#AMV From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Oct 21 09:05:35 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 11:05:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] 6 cyl Camshaft results In-Reply-To: <124592.11733.qm@web120518.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <124592.11733.qm@web120518.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD3F488C2A1FFF-ED8-75D2@webmail-d069.sysops.aol.com> Several of us are running TILDEN cams in our race cars. It is the best cam for our purposes and very thoughtfully engineered. A lot of work and collaboration went into the development and the guy behind this effort is 'one of us' and brilliant. You may want to talk to Larry directly to confirm what your needs are. He will listen. Joe Alexander -----Original Message----- From: Raymond Hatfield To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Oct 21, 2010 9:41 am Subject: [6pack] 6 cyl Camshaft results As promised, here is the latest results from my 'poll': * a total of 14 people responded to my questions. * 4 people give strong recommendations for the Isky Z-19 one person said they got 140 rwhp w/12:1 CR and other mods * 3 people said they were happy with the GP2 cam one person described as mild, but was able to get 110 rwhp w/9.5:1 CR * 1 person said they were happy with the S-2 cam * 1 person said they were happy with the TR5 cam, but warned the power didn't come on until 3K rpm * 1 person liked the Kent 'Fast Road' cam * 1 person liked the stock cam w/1.65:1 rockers - said it really transformed the performance * other cams recommended: BPNW's BP270 - described as mild, but was capable of 124 rwhp w10:1 CR " BP285 - better, with more lift and torque GoodParts GP-3 - good power - 130 rwhp w/10:1 CR & 1.65:1 rockers TSI 275-6 Intregral Cams - (http://www.integralcams.com/) Oregon Cams - 1396 for street, 1313 for autox(http://www.pacifier.com/~orcam/Mechanical-Cam-Specs.html) and one that's in development by Tilden Cams which looks very promising. (http://www.tildentechnologies.com/index.html) I appreciate all the input, lot's of good information given. Other point brought out were: Head work is critical for best performance. Stock manifolds are very restrictive - best performance from any cam will not be realized until intake is improved. Most recommended a CR of 9.5:1 for a street car. Mixed results on the 1.65 rockers After all this input, I think my top 3 are now the Z-19, TSI275-6 or the new Tilden cam. First thing I'm going to do is to find out about the Tilden before I make a final choice. Raymond L. Hatfield _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Oct 21 09:09:13 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 08:09:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Silicon Brake fluid In-Reply-To: <0D2A3B71E74740858F1BE8ADB38160CE@athlon> References: <0D2A3B71E74740858F1BE8ADB38160CE@athlon> Message-ID: On 10/21/10, Jim Vassiliadis wrote: > Apparently small amounts of the dot 4 will not upset the dot 5 fluid. What > is the best way to remove the dot 4 without taking the pipes off and blowing > air through them? I can only offer my personal experience on the TR4 and then the TR3A. In both cases I merely introduced DOT5 into the nearly empty reservoirs and bled with the usual sequence and method until the purple DOT5 was coming through. All this was 10 years ago and have had no problems associated with that change. BTW -- the best price I have found for DOT5 is Amazon (with free shipping if you can add something to get the order over $25): http://www.amazon.com/North-American-NA40-Silicone-Brake/dp/B001BB1GCI/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1287673547&sr=1-8 Geo From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Oct 21 09:23:14 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 08:23:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] searching parts on TRF website Message-ID: <161868.59749.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I prefer buying stuff from TRF, however sometimes find it very frustrating in my search on the website specifically for tr-3 parts. For instance this morning I went looking for small end rod bushings............gudgeon pin bushes as described in Moss motors. No matter how I tried to describe them on the TRF web site search I came up blank. I finally just went to Moss and purchased because it was simpler and quicker. I love they're exploded diagrams. Does anyone on the list have suggestions for searching? Just wondering if I'm doing anything wrong. Or is there a place I could go to get specific parts numbers to then insert in the search engine. thanks gary n. From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Oct 21 09:28:09 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 10:28:09 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] searching parts on TRF website Message-ID: <1564650106.638707.1287674889819.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> Gary, I am a 25 year computer professional and I have the same problem. Never have found a good high tech solution. However, I almost always buy parts from TRF, so I just pick up the phone and call them. Really curious to see if any other list members have a better solution. Craig N. 1972 Triumph TR6 Oct 21, 2010 11:23:29 AM, nafzigerg at yahoo.com wrote: I prefer buying stuff from TRF, however sometimes find it very frustrating in my search on the website specifically for tr-3 parts. For instance this morning I went looking for small end rod bushings............gudgeon pin bushes as described in Moss motors. No matter how I tried to describe them on the TRF web site search I came up blank. I finally just went to Moss and purchased because it was simpler and quicker. I love they're exploded diagrams. Does anyone on the list have suggestions for searching? Just wondering if I'm doing anything wrong. Or is there a place I could go to get specific parts numbers to then insert in the search engine. thanks gary n. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 21 09:37:49 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 08:37:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] searching parts on TRF website In-Reply-To: <161868.59749.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <161868.59749.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <074201cb7135$eaf34d10$0301a8c0@randall> > Or is there a place I could go to get > specific parts > numbers to then insert in the search engine. You need a copy of the factory "Spare Parts Catalogue" for your car. TRF sells reprints on both paper & CD. Or, you can download the TR3 version from: http://tinyurl.com/37voevm (I occasionally work on improving that file, so check back from time to time. If you find a problem with it, please let me know.) Looking at Plate B, the small end bushings are P/N 56251, which the TRF parts database shows available for $4.95 each. Randall From jdabars at att.net Thu Oct 21 09:36:57 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 08:36:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 50 year Triumph celebration at Jabbke---video---60 min. long---better than nothing---INTERESTING Message-ID: <873375.94568.qm@web83706.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> enter utube on web search click then click on youtube broadcast yourself then write in Jabbke Triumph enter click on site----it is 59 minutes long---sit back and enjoy. it is from 2003, very interesting though at times boring. Let me know what you think of it. jdabars at att.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 21 09:44:06 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 08:44:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] searching parts on TRF website In-Reply-To: <1564650106.638707.1287674889819.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1564650106.638707.1287674889819.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <074301cb7136$cbb01b80$0301a8c0@randall> > Really curious to see if any other list members have a better > solution. > > Craig N. > 1972 Triumph TR6 For the TR6, TRF has a good catalog on-line. Taken from the factory SPC, but with additional information about variations (the gearbox section is particularly helpful IMO). http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6bluebook/6.php (depending on your monitor and/or eyesight, you may need to use the magnification pull-down near the top of the page.) Randall From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Thu Oct 21 09:56:34 2010 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 11:56:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wiring Harness Message-ID: Guy, I have installed a kit on my 3A. Dan was most helpful as I wanted to do a somewhat custom version, shortening the fuse/relay panel and mounting it on the firewall, using a solenoid stud as a main power distribution point, and a couple of other things I forget right now. My background is electronics so I have no troubles with schematics and wiring stuff but I am sure for those less familiar the tech. support would be very helpful indeed. Others have covered most points already but I would highlight one con - the wire diameters. They are all bigger than necessary, just on principle I think. No harm in this and perhaps even some small benefit but not significant in my opinion. If it were an option, I would prefer smaller wire. Where before I had the harness going through one hole in the firewall, it now is split into two sections and has to go through two holes, for example. Also when working behind the dash where the gauges are, it's a bit tough to route these thick wires around and through tight spaces. All told it's a great improvement though. One I finally finish the last bits of wiring I will surely lose my grumpiness about the diameters, and just enjoy the reliable electrics. Jim ==================== From: "Guy D. Huggins" Listers, I am seriously thinking of purchasing and installing the Advanced Auto Wire kit as part of my TR4A restoration. What do those who have made this same decision think about the kit? What are the gotchas, etc? I'm wanting to learn more about the good, bad and ugly of this kit. Cheers, Guy From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Oct 21 10:19:20 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 12:19:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wiring Harness In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7638BB285B904D8B8A6645CBE0E78E9D@BobPC> Jim, The wire size is both a Pro and Con i.e. I'd rather have oversized then undersized but the oversize really did take up a lot of room when running the wires. However........... Steve Carrington, who now owns AAW was at The British Invasion in Stowe VT last month and in talking to him learned that they have downsized many of the wires but they will still safely handle the potential load. He and Dan agreed that the original design was overkill. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jim Wallace" Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2010 11:56 AM To: ; Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wiring Harness > Guy, > I have installed a kit on my 3A. Dan was most helpful as I wanted to do a > somewhat custom version, shortening the fuse/relay panel and mounting it > on > the firewall, using a solenoid stud as a main power distribution point, > and > a couple of other things I forget right now. > My background is electronics so I have no troubles with schematics and > wiring stuff but I am sure for those less familiar the tech. support would > be very helpful indeed. > Others have covered most points already but I would highlight one con - > the > wire diameters. They are all bigger than necessary, just on principle I > think. No harm in this and perhaps even some small benefit but not > significant in my opinion. If it were an option, I would prefer smaller > wire. Where before I had the harness going through one hole in the > firewall, > it now is split into two sections and has to go through two holes, for > example. Also when working behind the dash where the gauges are, it's a > bit > tough to route these thick wires around and through tight spaces. > All told it's a great improvement though. One I finally finish the last > bits > of wiring I will surely lose my grumpiness about the diameters, and just > enjoy the reliable electrics. > Jim > ==================== > From: "Guy D. Huggins" > > Listers, > I am seriously thinking of purchasing and installing the Advanced Auto > Wire > kit as part of my TR4A restoration. > What do those who have made this same decision think about the kit? > What are the gotchas, etc? > > I'm wanting to learn more about the good, bad and ugly of this kit. > > Cheers, > > Guy > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From bjzwissler at gmail.com Thu Oct 21 11:28:19 2010 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 13:28:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 464 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My solution was to buy the paper version of the original Triumph exploded parts manual and use that to order from TRF given they use the original Standard-Triumph part numbers.. This also becomes a very useful source for assembly since it has exploded views of virtually everything and even shows what size/length bolts/screws are used. Also, since I have a TR4A I sometimes use TRFs complete, on-line catalog for the TR6 which has a lot of the same parts. I too am generally unsuccessful at a key word search. Ben...... > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 10:28:09 -0500 (CDT) > From: thenicholls at verizon.net > Subject: Re: [TR] searching parts on TRF website > To: nafzigerg at yahoo.com > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > <1564650106.638707.1287674889819.JavaMail.root at vms227.mailsrvcs.net > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Gary, > > I am a 25 year computer professional and I have the same problem. Never > have found a good high tech solution. However, I almost always buy parts > from TRF, so I just pick up the phone and call them. > > Really curious to see if any other list members have a better solution. > > Craig N. > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > > Oct 21, 2010 11:23:29 AM, nafzigerg at yahoo.com wrote: > > I prefer buying stuff from TRF, however sometimes find it very frustrating > in my > search on the website specifically for tr-3 parts. For instance this > morning I > went looking for small end rod bushings............gudgeon pin bushes as > described in Moss motors. No matter how I tried to describe them on the TRF > web > site search I came up blank. I finally just went to Moss and purchased > because > it was simpler and quicker. I love they're exploded diagrams. > > Does anyone on the list have suggestions for searching? Just wondering if > I'm > doing anything wrong. Or is there a place I could go to get specific parts > numbers to then insert in the search engine. > > > thanks > > gary n. > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 464 > **************************************** From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Oct 21 12:40:54 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 14:40:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] searching parts on TRF website In-Reply-To: <074201cb7135$eaf34d10$0301a8c0@randall> References: <161868.59749.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <074201cb7135$eaf34d10$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <8CD3F66A063DACD-77C-60E5@webmail-stg-d13.sysops.aol.com> Another option is to check the Moss Europe web site: Unlike the US site, the Europe site uses mostly original factory part numbers rather than "made up" numbers. ;-) (Apologies to my friends at Moss here in the US, for whom I do have great respect!) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Randall You need a copy of the factory "Spare Parts Catalogue" for your car. TRF sells reprints on both paper & CD.... From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Oct 21 12:44:18 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 11:44:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper motor Message-ID: <305148.87783.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> looking at a wiper motor rebuild for my buddy. his car is late TR3 1962ish all of the wiper motors i have seen have the red wire that goes to the round circle thing (that controls the park placement) come out of the body of the wiper motor on its right side as you look at it from the front of the car. his red wire is very long and looks like it has to come out of the motor on the left side where the hot wires connect to.. the red wire is considerably longer than mine on TS41366. i cant find a hole on the right side of the assembly to route the red wire through. was this a later modification? motor was already in pieces when it was entrusted to me to rebuild. also when replacing the bushes. the new bushes have small "V" groves cut in them. groves to the commutator or to the housing? if groves to the commutator are they parallel or perpendicular to the groves of the commutator? thanks Frank photos available if you need to see them. From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Thu Oct 21 13:18:18 2010 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:18:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Update - Autocross rollover accident - driver OK Message-ID: <1A494148-4440-4E09-873F-9954E6C32DF9@blakedischer.com> Cecil Wise from Kansas rolled his Vitesse in the autocross when the car left the pavement after a slide and went into sandy soil. Cecil as I understand it was taken to hospital and is OK. I was not there when it happened, but pics of Cecil's car and other participants are going up now at: http://vtr.org/VTR2010gallery3/ Cheers, Blake From tr4zest at gmail.com Thu Oct 21 13:29:11 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:29:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] to silicone... Message-ID: I just syringed DOT 4 out of the master cylinder as much as possible. I poured in silicone and then went round the wheels in the recommended bleed order - furthest first. On my tr4 that is rear-left, rear-right, front-right and front-left. I used a vacuum pump to pull the fluid through rather than the brake pedal to pump it (I was working alone). There is a dramatic colour change when the purple silicone reaches the clear bleed tube. You will know when you have pumped as much DOT4 as you are going to get out. While there may be a few blind spots where the old fluid remains, it is of little consequence. You will read cautions about bubbles in silicone when pouring. I found no such issue, but did pour carefully. You will also read of seal failures. I discounted this. However, on reflection, withing a few months, both front caliper seals failed. They were only 2 years old. I changed to silicone after a failed master cyclinder destroyed a lerge patch of paint. It is great to have paint-benign hydraulic fluid. Brian From adcronin at mi.rr.com Thu Oct 21 13:41:31 2010 From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:41:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] searching parts on TRF website In-Reply-To: <161868.59749.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <161868.59749.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 10/21 I too find the TRF web site fustrating at times and it truly is much easier to use Moss or others where you can see and read the part description right there along with the part number and a link to the check out basket. I will be forwarding this note along to TRF! Dan C On Oct 21, 2010, at 11:23 AM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I prefer buying stuff from TRF, however sometimes find it very frustrating in my > search on the website specifically for tr-3 parts. For instance this morning I > went looking for small end rod bushings............gudgeon pin bushes as > described in Moss motors. No matter how I tried to describe them on the TRF web > site search I came up blank. I finally just went to Moss and purchased because > it was simpler and quicker. I love they're exploded diagrams. > > Does anyone on the list have suggestions for searching? Just wondering if I'm > doing anything wrong. Or is there a place I could go to get specific parts > numbers to then insert in the search engine. > > > thanks > > gary n. > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/adcronin at mi.rr.com From jdabars at att.net Thu Oct 21 13:48:31 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 12:48:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Just watched the utube Celebrating 50 years Jabbke convention Message-ID: <759598.15343.qm@web83709.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> This 59 minute long utube presentation of the Jabbke event celebration was just the thing for us stuck away from the VTR Convention on Jekyll Island, Georgia. It is about 4:00 pm here in Indianapolis, Indiana, U.S.A.,same as at the Convention and I can just immagine all those Triumfs on the show field with afficionadoes strolling, smiling and some still mumbling obsceneties about some crocquette happening on the green. After watching the Jabbke utube tape I feel elated to see such an international gathering of Triumph family. It is highly recommended viewing to maintain the Triumph HIGH all the way to 2011 VTR convention in C O L O R A D O high. I'll be there, God permitting, will you? You at the VTR Convention----quick, get this Jabbke utube tape/presentation, hopefully before the banquette and be HIGH as a Triumf Kite. "HOOSIER JOHN" Safe travel home you lucky canventioneers. "G e o r g i a, G e o r g i a, G e o r g i a on my mind" Thanks, one and ALL. From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Oct 21 13:56:32 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:56:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Update - Autocross rollover accident - driver OK In-Reply-To: <1A494148-4440-4E09-873F-9954E6C32DF9@blakedischer.com> References: <1A494148-4440-4E09-873F-9954E6C32DF9@blakedischer.com> Message-ID: <8CD3F7131872803-1D24-5EC7@webmail-stg-d12.sysops.aol.com> Blake, please send along my condolences and wishes for a speedy recovery to Cecil, and please also keep us posted as to how he's doing! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Blake J. Discher To: Triumph List Sent: Thu, Oct 21, 2010 3:18 pm Subject: [TR] VTR Update - Autocross rollover accident - driver OK Cecil Wise from Kansas rolled his Vitesse in the autocross.... From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 21 14:54:40 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 20:54:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Just watched the utube Celebrating 50 years Jabbke convention In-Reply-To: <759598.15343.qm@web83709.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <203901960.157981.1287694480878.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > It is highly recommended viewing to maintain the Triumph HIGH > all the > way to 2011 VTR convention in C O L O R A D O high. > I'll be there, God > permitting, will you? Yes. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Thu Oct 21 14:56:34 2010 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 16:56:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Virtual Get Well Card for Cecil - at VTR banquet In-Reply-To: <8CD3F7131872803-1D24-5EC7@webmail-stg-d12.sysops.aol.com> References: <1A494148-4440-4E09-873F-9954E6C32DF9@blakedischer.com> <8CD3F7131872803-1D24-5EC7@webmail-stg-d12.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I will definitely do that Randall. I was thinking... the banquet starts in about 2 hours, with my comments in about 2.5 hours. It might be cool if we did a virtual Get Well card for Cecil. I'll put anyone's well wishes on the screen during my comments after dinner with their name. Send them here to the list, I'll check it during dinner. Thanks! On Oct 21, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Andrew Mace wrote: > Blake, please send along my condolences and wishes for a speedy recovery to Cecil, and please also keep us posted as to how he's doing! > > --Andy Mace From jdabars at att.net Thu Oct 21 14:59:49 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 13:59:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] easier to get utube Jabbke Triumph 50 year celbration tape --- interesting 1 hour Message-ID: <829717.89657.qm@web83712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Then on Jabbke triumph oldtimer ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Janis Dabars To: jdabars at att.net Sent: Thu, October 21, 2010 4:50:58 PM Subject: u tube klick this http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=jabbeke+triumph From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 21 15:09:20 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 21:09:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Virtual Get Well Card for Cecil - at VTR banquet In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1432673116.158925.1287695359995.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Cecil, get well soon and get back up on that horse! We're all pulling for you, buddy! - Phil Ethier Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Blake J. Discher" > To: "Andrew Mace" > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2010 3:56:34 PM > Subject: [TR] Virtual Get Well Card for Cecil - at VTR banquet > > I will definitely do that Randall. I was thinking... the banquet > starts in > about 2 hours, with my comments in about 2.5 hours. It might be cool > if we > did a virtual Get Well card for Cecil. I'll put anyone's well wishes > on the > screen during my comments after dinner with their name. Send them > here to the > list, I'll check it during dinner. Thanks! > > > > > > On Oct 21, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Andrew Mace wrote: > > > Blake, please send along my condolences and wishes for a speedy > recovery to > Cecil, and please also keep us posted as to how he's doing! > > > > --Andy Mace > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Oct 21 16:01:39 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 18:01:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tranny Story 2 Message-ID: <4CC08003.512.2DC3BDDB@localhost> I got some parts back from my local machine shop today. The main task I wanted was a hardened sleeve put on the roller bearing surface where mainshaft fits into the input shaft. They did a good job except for one thing. The OD is now too big. It won't fit into the input shaft's hole with the bearing in place. Bummer. I'll take it back but with the shaft turned down to accept the sleeve I don't know what the original diameter was. I would have thought they'd have measured that and replicated it precisely. If any of you know that spec I'd be glad to hear it so I can go back to the shop prepared. I am not a happy camper at the moment. Not too worried, but these things aer always better off resolved than pending, if you know what I mean. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From wbeech at flash.net Thu Oct 21 16:17:16 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 16:17:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper motor In-Reply-To: <305148.87783.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <305148.87783.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <19B940EE1C384891B609A494DF2893ED@bboffice> Frank, I went through a lot of pictures when I rebuilt mine last year and don't recall any with the park wire running externally. They all went through the housing and out the little hole as you describe. Can you friend be sure that his is the original motor to the car? Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2010 12:44 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper motor looking at a wiper motor rebuild for my buddy. his car is late TR3 1962ish all of the wiper motors i have seen have the red wire that goes to the round circle thing (that controls the park placement) come out of the body of the wiper motor on its right side as you look at it from the front of the car. his red wire is very long and looks like it has to come out of the motor on the left side where the hot wires connect to.. the red wire is considerably longer than mine on TS41366. i cant find a hole on the right side of the assembly to route the red wire through. was this a later modification? motor was already in pieces when it was entrusted to me to rebuild. also when replacing the bushes. the new bushes have small "V" groves cut in them. groves to the commutator or to the housing? if groves to the commutator are they parallel or perpendicular to the groves of the commutator? thanks Frank photos available if you need to see them. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Thu Oct 21 16:27:27 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 16:27:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] searching parts on TRF website In-Reply-To: References: <161868.59749.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <514C42E0F8AE40CEAD9B53CDD233C761@bboffice> I am another user that uses the .PDF version of the parts manual for the numbers when I want to check with TRF after hours, or pick up the phone and call as they are always knowledgeable, friendly and helpful. The key work search the about a 50/50 crap shoot to find what you want, and they have it. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Cronin Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2010 1:42 PM To: Gary Nafziger Cc: Triumph List; trfcs at aol.com; trfmail at aol.com Subject: Re: [TR] searching parts on TRF website 10/21 I too find the TRF web site fustrating at times and it truly is much easier to use Moss or others where you can see and read the part description right there along with the part number and a link to the check out basket. I will be forwarding this note along to TRF! Dan C On Oct 21, 2010, at 11:23 AM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I prefer buying stuff from TRF, however sometimes find it very > frustrating in my > search on the website specifically for tr-3 parts. For instance this morning I > went looking for small end rod bushings............gudgeon pin bushes > as described in Moss motors. No matter how I tried to describe them > on the TRF web > site search I came up blank. I finally just went to Moss and > purchased because > it was simpler and quicker. I love they're exploded diagrams. > > Does anyone on the list have suggestions for searching? Just > wondering if I'm > doing anything wrong. Or is there a place I could go to get specific > parts numbers to then insert in the search engine. > > > thanks > > gary n. > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/adcronin at mi.rr.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR4Zest at gmail.com Thu Oct 21 16:32:09 2010 From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 22:32:09 +0000 Subject: [TR] Get well Cecil Message-ID: <90e6ba53b42eb3a0b80493281863@google.com> Sounds like a scary spill. Be well. Brian Jones Valley Forge, PA From wbeech at flash.net Thu Oct 21 17:07:57 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:07:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] easier to get utube Jabbke Triumph 50 year celbration tape --- interesting 1 hour In-Reply-To: <829717.89657.qm@web83712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <829717.89657.qm@web83712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <715BCEE40AB04E2BBD0570EC4F8BEA20@bboffice> Question: At about 12:50 into the video appears a TR3 (reg No. 00.TR3) with what looks like roll-up windows and a vent window as well. Was this a limited production thing or did this guy get tired of the British weather joining him in the interior of the car? Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Janis Dabars Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2010 3:00 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: John Dabars Subject: [TR] easier to get utube Jabbke Triumph 50 year celbration tape --- interesting 1 hour Then on Jabbke triumph oldtimer ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Janis Dabars To: jdabars at att.net Sent: Thu, October 21, 2010 4:50:58 PM Subject: u tube klick this http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=jabbeke+triumph _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Oct 21 17:26:27 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 19:26:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] easier to get utube Jabbke Triumph 50 year celbration tape --- interesting 1 hour In-Reply-To: <715BCEE40AB04E2BBD0570EC4F8BEA20@bboffice> References: <829717.89657.qm@web83712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <715BCEE40AB04E2BBD0570EC4F8BEA20@bboffice> Message-ID: <8CD3F8E84F8A3A3-1C10-2D22@webmail-stg-m02.sysops.aol.com> Bill, I'm just watching the video now and haven't gotten there yet, but I suspect it's a TR2 "Spa Francorchamps"; there were about 22 of these special hardtop versions built by the Belgian importer. Kind of the "Holy Grail" of the early cars! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: wbeech at flash.net To: 'Janis Dabars' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Oct 21, 2010 7:07 pm Subject: Re: [TR] easier to get utube Jabbke Triumph 50 year celbration tape --- interesting 1 hour Question: At about 12:50 into the video appears a TR3 (reg No. 00.TR3) with what looks like roll-up windows and a vent window as well. Was this a limited production thing or did this guy get tired of the British weather joining him in the interior of the car? From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Oct 21 19:50:19 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 21:50:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valve Part Number Message-ID: List, Anyone know what AE part no. 33976 fits? Package says "Triumph". Valves are small, not TR3-TR4. Ed Woods From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Thu Oct 21 20:07:11 2010 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 19:07:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] VTR Update - Autocross rollover accident - driver OK In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <642542.86932.qm@web37505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Please pass this to Cecil- I am sorry to see the damage, but very GLAD to hear you are OK. I have all the parts you'll need to fix 'er.....just make the short drive to Tulsa! Chad in Tulsa ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:18:18 -0400 From: "Blake J. Discher" Subject: [TR] VTR Update - Autocross rollover accident - driver OK To: Triumph List Message-ID: <1A494148-4440-4E09-873F-9954E6C32DF9 at blakedischer.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Cecil Wise from Kansas rolled his Vitesse in the autocross when the car left the pavement after a slide and went into sandy soil. Cecil as I understand it was taken to hospital and is OK. I was not there when it happened, but pics of Cecil's car and other participants are going up now at: http://vtr.org/VTR2010gallery3/ Cheers, Blake ------------------------------ From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Oct 21 20:27:20 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 22:27:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valve Part Number In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD3FA7C9AAD6B4-1AF4-65C4@webmail-d022.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Ed Woods Anyone know what AE part no. 33976 fits? Package says "Triumph". Valves are small, not TR3-TR4. ==AM== I have an old 1973 Beck-Arnley catalog that lists "James" brand valves and show a part number 33976TF as exhaust valve for TR4 and 4A; coincidence, or a match? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Oct 21 20:51:01 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 19:51:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] searching parts trf (hearty thanks) Message-ID: <370409.15456.qm@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Listers, thanks for all the help and suggestions! I wasn't aware of the online parts catalogue that randall mentioned and downloaded it immediately. It's a little bulky to handle but very helpful, especially the blow up diagrams. awesome! I also wasn't aware that trf used the factory part numbers (maybe i'd forgotten) so I think the problem is solved. Inputting part numbers in the search engine should solve that. Matter of fact I think I have an old parts book for the tr-3 some place in my "stash". Albert Runyan also offered great help and its nice to know that he follows this list on a regular basis! thanks to all the listers! gary n. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Oct 21 20:54:34 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 22:54:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valve Part Number References: <8CD3FA7C9AAD6B4-1AF4-65C4@webmail-d022.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <64CD77BF0CFE433BAD2E864F660AC87A@Edscomputer> Andy, As usual, you are right on. I need to practice reading my micrometer. They are, indeed, TR4A exhaust valves. However, my "package of 4" only contains 3. Anyone out there have one, new, AE, TR4A exhaust valve for sale? Part no. 33976. Ed From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Oct 22 04:02:28 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 03:02:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper motor In-Reply-To: <305148.87783.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <305148.87783.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > his > red wire is very long and looks like it has to come out of the motor on > the > left side where the hot wires connect to.. the red wire is considerably > longer > than mine on TS41366. Just a thought, Frank, I have seen some wiper motors that have an alternate style of park switch. The switch housing is taller and kind of a 'pinched' shape rather than the flat top cylindrical housing found on most motors. The entire switch is attached to the cover, rather than having one contact rotating like the common style does. The alternate style also does not have the exposed red wire to the top of the switch housing; presumably the wire is hidden inside somehow. I'm thinking that perhaps your friend's wiper motor originally had the alternate style park switch, but someone has changed back to the common style switch. That could leave no place to run the red wire, so they may have routed it outside the housing. Just a WAG, probably way off base. If so, I blame it on lack of sleep ... BTW, if anyone knows the rhyme or reason to the alternate motors, I would be interested in hearing it. At one time I thought they were a later replacement, but then I saw one at a show that had a date code of "59" on it and the owner swore it was original to the car. Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Oct 22 09:06:00 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 08:06:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper motor In-Reply-To: <19B940EE1C384891B609A494DF2893ED@bboffice> References: <305148.87783.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <19B940EE1C384891B609A494DF2893ED@bboffice> Message-ID: <961606.51658.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> he is pretty sure its original to the car. car was purchased by his father in mid 60's when it was a couple years old and was given to him for high school. to all extents it looks exactly like my wiper motor and all other TR3 motors. except for the routing of the red wire frank ________________________________ From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: Frank Fisher ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, October 21, 2010 3:17:16 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 wiper motor Frank, I went through a lot of pictures when I rebuilt mine last year and don't recall any with the park wire running externally. They all went through the housing and out the little hole as you describe. Can you friend be sure that his is the original motor to the car? Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2010 12:44 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper motor looking at a wiper motor rebuild for my buddy. his car is late TR3 1962ish all of the wiper motors i have seen have the red wire that goes to the round circle thing (that controls the park placement) come out of the body of the wiper motor on its right side as you look at it from the front of the car. his red wire is very long and looks like it has to come out of the motor on the left side where the hot wires connect to.. the red wire is considerably longer than mine on TS41366. i cant find a hole on the right side of the assembly to route the red wire through. was this a later modification? motor was already in pieces when it was entrusted to me to rebuild. also when replacing the bushes. the new bushes have small "V" groves cut in them. groves to the commutator or to the housing? if groves to the commutator are they parallel or perpendicular to the groves of the commutator? thanks Frank photos available if you need to see them. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From acey2525 at aol.com Fri Oct 22 12:04:55 2010 From: acey2525 at aol.com (acey2525 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 14:04:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wiring Harness In-Reply-To: <51F4C09C1E294929B6505C16CD57B03E@BobPC> References: <7BC6B975-7E33-465D-9A91-0FC116B9628A@genfiniti.com> <51F4C09C1E294929B6505C16CD57B03E@BobPC> Message-ID: <8CD402AC408B90C-578-1FBA@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com> I just wanted to add to the thread...I converted my 59 TR3A to Dan's harness and it is the single best upgrade I have made. I have nightmares regarding electricity and have trouble understanding anything with a current running through it and certainly couldn't read a schematic if you paid me but did do the whole job myself (yes I'm still wondering how I did it.) Dan did answered some questions via email and the phone and soldering the bullets and taping the wires was a b*****h but it was well worth the effort. I figured a thousand mile journey starts with the first step so I just ripped every wire out and took a leap of faith. I took my time and just chunked off pieces of the project, slow and steady, and surprisingly everything works including 4 way flashers. I did it 5 years ago and I don't think I've even had to replace a fuse so far. You're going to have to convert for a generator to an alternator and a volt to an amp meter. Jack McMahon Philadelphia, PA From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Oct 22 12:48:42 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 11:48:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Intermittent Wiper Switch? Message-ID: <899337.1477.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Driving to work today in the rain I wished for an intermittent wiper switch. Does anyone sell one that looks right in a TR3 instrument panel? Is there a way to add one inline somehow? We all know that Lucas invented the first intermittent switch. Any Lucas switch can be intermittent... TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From guy at genfiniti.com Fri Oct 22 14:00:22 2010 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 15:00:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Windshield Capping Seal for TR4A Message-ID: <9E3C8784-3B52-4468-9949-690BCA0FA14A@genfiniti.com> Listers, I am wondering if a part exists. When I removed the capping piece from atop the windshield of the TR4A (by drilling out the rivets), it has what appears to be the remains of a rubber seal. This seal was BETWEEN the capping piece and the windshield frame itself. (I suppose to prevent water from getting into the hollow parts of the windscreen frame.) I have looked but cannot find a parts reference for this seal. The closest I've found is the seal that attaches to the hood frame bar, along with three metal strips, to form a seal between the hood frame and the windscreen when the hood is raised. Does anyone have any information on this? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From trguy at cfl.rr.com Fri Oct 22 15:05:51 2010 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 17:05:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2010 Rollover Update Message-ID: Just got back from a great VTR at Jekyll Island and hats off to VTR and all the clubs who hosted a great event. Saw the posts on the Vitesse accident during the autocross and wanted togive everyone an up close and personal update as I worked station 3 on the autocross course right next to where the car flipped. The course ran at the Jekyll Island airport so the pavement on the runways is not too wide. Cecil was having a nice run and came a little too hot into the second slalom and tried to overcorrect. The car slid sideways through the gate and into the grass. The car flipped over completely s soon as it hit the grass sideways. We couldn't see Cecile and immediately we all ran up to the car asking him to tak to us as we tried to open the door. The Jekyll Island Fire Dpartment truck was right there as they were stationed on the other side of the runway. we got the door opened and the Fireman pulled cecil out. Amazingly and thankfully, Cecil stood up and looked ok. Since the accident happened halfway down the course we knew no one else back at the start knew he was ok so we radioed back that he was up and ok! Eigth guys flipped the car back over and rolled it back up the runway tot he staging area. They took Cecil and his wife to the hospital and he checked out ok!! He later came the dinner that night and thanked everyone who helped out. That was the scariest scene I had scene in all my years of autocrossing at VTR. There was also an autocross accident of a TR6 back in 2002 at a southest VTR meet at the same location. Driver ok, car slid off course intot he trees and was wrecked. Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Fri Oct 22 16:23:11 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 17:23:11 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wiring Harness Message-ID: <8214902.253655.1287786191287.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> From john_finlayson at telus.net Fri Oct 22 16:58:20 2010 From: john_finlayson at telus.net (John Finlayson) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 15:58:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio Message-ID: I have a 1967 Triumph radio, manufactured by Bendix. The model number is 7BTRX. On the left side of the case near the rear is a polarity switch. Does anyone know which way the switch should be set for positive ground, up or down? There is no indication on the radio which way to set it and I don't want to apply power till I know which way to set it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks John Finlayson From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Oct 22 17:57:18 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 16:57:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tractor Music Message-ID: Who knew our Tractor Motors has so much talent ... Here's a little serenade for anyone who's got their "Tractor Quals" in. Or maybe still have a bit of hayseed in their hair. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDHzK3Xe7Yw -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Oct 22 17:57:39 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 18:57:39 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Proper fill on a Triumph TR6 brake master res. Message-ID: <4344467.444881.1287791859770.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net> List, You have heard my story about my brake system repair. The shop put a new cap on the reservoir, and thought that was it. So, easy question that is not stated in the maint. manual, how full should the reservoir be on a topped on newly bled system on the TR6. How far from the top lip should the fluid be, and if over that height, it would be "to full". Thanks, Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Oct 22 18:08:54 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 20:08:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Windshield Capping Seal for TR4A In-Reply-To: <9E3C8784-3B52-4468-9949-690BCA0FA14A@genfiniti.com> References: <9E3C8784-3B52-4468-9949-690BCA0FA14A@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <201010222008.55772.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday, October 22, 2010 04:00:22 pm Guy D. Huggins wrote: > Listers, > > I am wondering if a part exists. > > When I removed the capping piece from atop the windshield of the TR4A (by > drilling out the rivets), it has what appears to be the remains of a rubber > seal. > This seal was BETWEEN the capping piece and the windshield frame itself. (I > suppose to prevent water from getting into the hollow parts of the > windscreen frame.) > > I have looked but cannot find a parts reference for this seal. > The closest I've found is the seal that attaches to the hood frame bar, > along with three metal strips, to form a seal between the hood frame and > the windscreen when the hood is raised. > > Does anyone have any information on this? > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO > > Guy, When I attached the capping to my 63 TR4, I was in the same spot where you are today. What I did was go down to Lowes and look at their weather striping selection. I found a type of weather stripping about 1" wide and in a very long coil. It had a layor of thich stickyback tape on one side and the other was soft vinyl. The total thickness was about 1/8" which is what I chiseled out of the existing capping. So I stuck the piece to the entire capping and riveted the capping with the seal installed to the top of the windshield. I have been through many of heavy rain storms and there are no leaks what so ever. I used the same technique on the TR6 I just restored which is more like your 4A than my 4 but still requires the seal. The key for me was to apply the seal so when I installed the pop rivets the rivet when through the seal. That way I knew the seal was in the correct position. The action of the pop rivets drawing towards the windshield frame compresses the seal for waterproof installation. The problem is I don't remember the product name but if you need the name, I can go to Lowes and check it out. The seal came in various colors, white, off white and tan. I picked off white I believe but once installed you cannot see the seal. Bob From pcaffrey at ymail.com Fri Oct 22 18:15:51 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 17:15:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Tractor Music In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <913776.22324.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Nice clip....The tractor has more talent than Ringo Starr. I always thought he was overrated. Pat ________________________________ From: Bill To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, October 22, 2010 4:57:18 PM Subject: [TR] Tractor Music Who knew our Tractor Motors has so much talent ... Here's a little serenade for anyone who's got their "Tractor Quals" in. Or maybe still have a bit of hayseed in their hair. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDHzK3Xe7Yw -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com From ols at bcdef.net Fri Oct 22 20:17:09 2010 From: ols at bcdef.net (Alexander Delis) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 22:17:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration Message-ID: <466FA82B-F57A-4EAA-B587-7902D6AFECF4@bcdef.net> List Finally got an OD tranny in my TR3. I've been waiting to get it in before I got the speedometer calibrated. I seem to remember there is a routine you must go through whereby you count the number of turns of the drive wheel over a certain distance in order for the the calibration to be accurate. Could someone please give me the exact routine? Thanks Alex 1958 TR3 TS33884LO 1968 GT6 KC10303 1976 TR6 CF51981U From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Oct 22 20:28:02 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 02:28:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 Water Pump Message-ID: <566589860.240737.1287800882828.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> While replacing the heater valve on my '70 TR6 this evening, the water pump sprung a leak. After jacking up the front end, I tried to figure out where it was leaking. What I found was the coolant was coming out of the passanger side of the body, out of the hole that I assume is used for a grease nipple. I have no recollection if there was a fitting in there or not, but I wanted to ask the list if somehow the fitting worked its way out, would the coolant come out of this hole or is there something else going on with my pump, letting me know it may be time to replace it? Coolant is circulating since my test of the new heater valve produced heat in the car, and weeped a bit through the threading, which I'll take care of once I get this other issue resolved. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Oct 22 21:06:54 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 22:06:54 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Water Pump Message-ID: <906101104.225522.1287803214526.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> On my 72 TR6, the water pump stared spewing water up onto the underside of the bonnet. The hole is not a grease nipple, it is there to release water when you water pump is bad. I ordered a new water pump from TRF and installed. Even though the book talks about a grease nipple, after taking to people, there is no such thing. Order a new water pump and gasket, it is an easy unbolt and bolt, I did not have any issues. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Oct 22, 2010 10:28:11 PM, suhringtr36 at comcast.net wrote: While replacing the heater valve on my '70 TR6 this evening, the water pump sprung a leak. After jacking up the front end, I tried to figure out where it was leaking. What I found was the coolant was coming out of the passanger side of the body, out of the hole that I assume is used for a grease nipple. I have no recollection if there was a fitting in there or not, but I wanted to ask the list if somehow the fitting worked its way out, would the coolant come out of this hole or is there something else going on with my pump, letting me know it may be time to replace it? Coolant is circulating since my test of the new heater valve produced heat in the car, and weeped a bit through the threading, which I'll take care of once I get this other issue resolved. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Oct 22 21:37:12 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 23:37:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration In-Reply-To: <466FA82B-F57A-4EAA-B587-7902D6AFECF4@bcdef.net> References: <466FA82B-F57A-4EAA-B587-7902D6AFECF4@bcdef.net> Message-ID: <0BEC5F41D43E44A8B69A7328166C0D30@BobPC> The whole process is outlined on my site http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm and if you're smart you'll send the speedo and cable (most cables aren't within spec) off to Morris at West Valley Instrument. That's who the 6-Pack guys use and who Moss recommends. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alexander Delis" Sent: Friday, October 22, 2010 10:17 PM To: "Triumph List" Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration > List > > Finally got an OD tranny in my TR3. > > I've been waiting to get it in before I got the speedometer calibrated. > > I seem to remember there is a routine you must go through whereby you > count > the number of turns of the drive wheel over a certain distance in order > for > the the calibration to be accurate. > > Could someone please give me the exact routine? > > Thanks > > Alex > > 1958 TR3 TS33884LO > 1968 GT6 KC10303 > 1976 TR6 CF51981U > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Sat Oct 23 01:00:55 2010 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 08:00:55 +0100 Subject: [TR] Windshield Capping Seal for TR4A In-Reply-To: <201010222008.55772.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <9E3C8784-3B52-4468-9949-690BCA0FA14A@genfiniti.com> <201010222008.55772.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: When I removed my capping there was no rubber seal on my TR4A. What was there appeared to be a semi hardening sealer Sealstik or something similar. If there was a rubber seal at sometime it had been replaced with the Sealstik method. What I am thinking is that when I refit the capping I will probably opt for silicon sealer. Adrian TR4A Wales UK On Saturday, October 23, 2010, Bob wrote: > On Friday, October 22, 2010 04:00:22 pm Guy D. Huggins wrote: >> Listers, >> >> I am wondering if a part exists. >> >> When I removed the capping piece from atop the windshield of the TR4A (by >> drilling out the rivets), it has what appears to be the remains of a rubber >> seal. >> This seal was BETWEEN the capping piece and the windshield frame itself. (I >> suppose to prevent water from getting into the hollow parts of the >> windscreen frame.) >> >> I have looked but cannot find a parts reference for this seal. >> The closest I've found is the seal that attaches to the hood frame bar, >> along with three metal strips, to form a seal between the hood frame and >> the windscreen when the hood is raised. >> >> Does anyone have any information on this? >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Guy D. Huggins >> 1965 Triumph TR4A >> CTC 63569LO >> >> > Guy, > > When I attached the capping to my 63 TR4, I was in the same spot where you are > today. What I did was go down to Lowes and look at their weather striping > selection. > > I found a type of weather stripping about 1" wide and in a very long coil. It > had a layor of thich stickyback tape on one side and the other was soft vinyl. > The total thickness was about 1/8" which is what I chiseled out of the > existing capping. > > So I stuck the piece to the entire capping and riveted the capping with the > seal installed to the top of the windshield. > > I have been through many of heavy rain storms and there are no leaks what so > ever. > > I used the same technique on the TR6 I just restored which is more like your > 4A than my 4 but still requires the seal. > > The key for me was to apply the seal so when I installed the pop rivets the > rivet when through the seal. That way I knew the seal was in the correct > position. > > The action of the pop rivets drawing towards the windshield frame compresses > the seal for waterproof installation. > > The problem is I don't remember the product name but if you need the name, I > can go to Lowes and check it out. > > The seal came in various colors, white, off white and tan. I picked off white > I believe but once installed you cannot see the seal. > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Oct 23 04:44:11 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 06:44:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration References: <466FA82B-F57A-4EAA-B587-7902D6AFECF4@bcdef.net> Message-ID: <10361618B3F1423F8CEEE8CD08985FCF@userb38463fba5> Assuming that you did not change the Rear End gearing there is no need to re-calibrate the speedometer when installing an OD transmission. The 2 items are not related as the cable is driven at the output of the transmission. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alexander Delis" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Friday, October 22, 2010 10:17 PM Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration > List > > Finally got an OD tranny in my TR3. > > I've been waiting to get it in before I got the speedometer calibrated. > > I seem to remember there is a routine you must go through whereby you > count > the number of turns of the drive wheel over a certain distance in order > for > the the calibration to be accurate. > > Could someone please give me the exact routine? > > Thanks > > Alex > > 1958 TR3 TS33884LO > 1968 GT6 KC10303 > 1976 TR6 CF51981U From djsforza at gmail.com Sat Oct 23 07:11:56 2010 From: djsforza at gmail.com (Don Sforza) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 13:11:56 +0000 Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration In-Reply-To: <0BEC5F41D43E44A8B69A7328166C0D30@BobPC> References: <466FA82B-F57A-4EAA-B587-7902D6AFECF4@bcdef.net><0BEC5F41D43E44A8B69A7328166C0D30@BobPC> Message-ID: You never cease to amaze with your attention to detail. I sent the link to your site to my future son-in-law. I'm getting excited about getting going. Winter in Florida is wonderful "hood-down" weather! Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 23:37:12 To: Alexander Delis; Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] speedometer calibration The whole process is outlined on my site http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm and if you're smart you'll send the speedo and cable (most cables aren't within spec) off to Morris at West Valley Instrument. That's who the 6-Pack guys use and who Moss recommends. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alexander Delis" Sent: Friday, October 22, 2010 10:17 PM To: "Triumph List" Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration > List > > Finally got an OD tranny in my TR3. > > I've been waiting to get it in before I got the speedometer calibrated. > > I seem to remember there is a routine you must go through whereby you > count > the number of turns of the drive wheel over a certain distance in order > for > the the calibration to be accurate. > > Could someone please give me the exact routine? > > Thanks > > Alex > > 1958 TR3 TS33884LO > 1968 GT6 KC10303 > 1976 TR6 CF51981U > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/djsforza at gmail.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Oct 23 09:16:59 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 11:16:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Proper fill on a Triumph TR6 brake master res. In-Reply-To: <4344467.444881.1287791859770.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net> References: <4344467.444881.1287791859770.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <201010231117.00268.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday, October 22, 2010 07:57:39 pm thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > List, > > You have heard my story about my brake system repair. > > The shop put a new cap on the reservoir, and thought that was it. > > So, easy question that is not stated in the maint. manual, how full should > the reservoir be on a topped on newly bled system on the TR6. How far > from the top lip should the fluid be, and if over that height, it would be > "to full". > > Thanks, > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > Craig, According to the TR6 handbook on page 58 the fluid level should never go below the danger line. As pictured it is where the top oval portion of the reservoir meets the lower straight portion. So I would guess that any level above that is ok up to the bottom of the filler cap. I just finished bleeding my 72 brakes and I left the fluid level to about 1/2 below the lower cap. Bob From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Oct 23 10:37:32 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 09:37:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Troubles ... Message-ID: Well at least the TR6 got us home from Morgan Hill ... Simple job, replace leaking valve cover gasket ... no problem ... Turned key to start and check for leaks ... CLICK ... OK, I had been working on the lights too, replaced the Lucas bulbs with halogen (so we could actually see the road), so maybe the battery is down ... charged the battery ... CLICK ... Of to NAPA for new battery ... CLICK (BTW when the CLICK happens Ammeter pegs discharge) ... So somehow the started is hung up ... pushed the 6 down the driveway ... starts no problem, drive back to the garage, shut down ... try again CLICK !! Bad Starter ?????? It has one of the high torque starters (it came with it, I did not install it) any Trouble shooting tips ??? Just to make things so VERY special, when I closed the door ... it will not latch ... I have done nothing to the damn door ... did not jack it up, put strain on it in any way, just refuses to latch. Want to buy a TR6 cheap ... no ... just joking. Any help kindly appreciated my Friends ... "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From rjones at wfeca.net Sat Oct 23 10:48:44 2010 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 12:48:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Windshield Wiper Motor Message-ID: In talking to one of the TR3 car show participants at VTR, I commented on how nice his wiper motor looked and how I needed one restored. He said it was rebuilt/refinished by someone he sourced from this list. Does anyone know who redoes these parts? Thanks From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sat Oct 23 12:05:58 2010 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 11:05:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Troubles ... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CC32406.2080903@comcast.net> Bill, the problem is Morgan Hill. Last year I got down there, parked the car, shut it off, and then was asked to move it over a bit. I hit the starter and...nothing. Turned out the switch wire came off the starter (I also have a hi-torque starter) but just enough that it wasn't immediately obvious. I would check all those connections first, the ground connections and battery cables, then check the solenoid. This year, I parked the car at Morgan Hill, went to get some coffee, and when I came back the car was soaked :-( I hate when that happens. Bob On 10/23/2010 9:37 AM, Bill wrote: > Well at least the TR6 got us home from Morgan Hill ... Simple job, > replace leaking valve cover gasket ... no problem ... Turned key to > start and check for leaks ... CLICK ... OK, I had been working on the > lights too, replaced the Lucas bulbs with halogen (so we could > actually see the road), so maybe the battery is down ... charged the > battery ... CLICK ... Of to NAPA for new battery ... CLICK (BTW when > the CLICK happens Ammeter pegs discharge) ... So somehow the started > is hung up ... pushed the 6 down the driveway ... starts no problem, > drive back to the garage, shut down ... try again CLICK !! Bad > Starter ?????? It has one of the high torque starters (it came with > it, I did not install it) any Trouble shooting tips ??? > > Just to make things so VERY special, when I closed the door ... it > will not latch ... I have done nothing to the damn door ... did not > jack it up, put strain on it in any way, just refuses to latch. > > Want to buy a TR6 cheap ... no ... just joking. > > > Any help kindly appreciated my Friends ... > > > "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people > undertake it." - Henry Ford > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 > "Casper" From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Oct 23 12:21:02 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 14:21:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Troubles ... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201010231421.03914.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday, October 23, 2010 12:37:32 pm Bill wrote: > Well at least the TR6 got us home from Morgan Hill ... Simple job, > replace leaking valve cover gasket ... no problem ... Turned key to > start and check for leaks ... CLICK ... OK, I had been working on the > lights too, replaced the Lucas bulbs with halogen (so we could > actually see the road), so maybe the battery is down ... charged the > battery ... CLICK ... Of to NAPA for new battery ... CLICK (BTW when > the CLICK happens Ammeter pegs discharge) ... So somehow the started > is hung up ... pushed the 6 down the driveway ... starts no problem, > drive back to the garage, shut down ... try again CLICK !! Bad > Starter ?????? It has one of the high torque starters (it came with > it, I did not install it) any Trouble shooting tips ??? > > Just to make things so VERY special, when I closed the door ... it > will not latch ... I have done nothing to the damn door ... did not > jack it up, put strain on it in any way, just refuses to latch. > > Want to buy a TR6 cheap ... no ... just joking. > > > Any help kindly appreciated my Friends ... > > > "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people > undertake it." - Henry Ford > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 > "Casper" > TS16765L > Wallace, CA > Bill, No experience with the high torque starters. I still use the originals in my 3,4 and 6. But the door latch may just be in the shut position. So maybe all you need to do is grab the inside handle and open the door and then try to shut the door. If that doesn't work, I am guessing the latch on the door is stuck. Maybe some WD-40 or silicone spray will loosen it up. Bob From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Oct 23 15:34:36 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 17:34:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Water Spots!!!! Message-ID: Hey Guys, At the NATC on Jekyll Island a sprinkler @ the cottage we were staying at sprayed my Laurel TR6 with some nasty hard water, or worst I guess. What was left are some real nasty water spots. Now home, I have first tried wax, no good, then #7 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze Polish, nope still there. Now what? Thanks in Advance, Darrell From don at napanet.net Sat Oct 23 17:18:02 2010 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 16:18:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Water Spots!!!! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20101023231808.5CFA1AE67F@mail.dsl.napanet.net> I lent my BRG '91 Miata to a friend a couple years ago, He drove it on a dusty driveway, and then washed it, but the water must have had a lot of minerals in it. I got the car back with horrible water spots all over it. I used the product listed on this webpage. It's the first on the page, Ultracoat Polish. It took some rubbing to get the car back to its original shine, but this stuff worked. http://www.pssales.com/restoration.html#allitems At 02:34 PM 10/23/2010, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: >Hey Guys, >At the NATC on Jekyll Island a sprinkler @ the cottage we were staying at >sprayed my Laurel TR6 with some nasty hard water, or worst I guess. What >was left are some real nasty water spots. Now home, I have first tried wax, >no good, then #7 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze Polish, nope still there. Now >what? >Thanks in Advance, >Darrell >____ From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Oct 23 20:31:51 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 19:31:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Water Spots!!!! References: Message-ID: <001501cb7323$9de9dcb0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> You need something with a "cleaner" in the label. That stuff settled into your glaze and putting more glaze on top won't help. I have used Meguiar's Cleaner Wax on tar or whatever spots, works just fine. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1420296&CAWELAID=109354546 Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 2:34 PM Subject: [6pack] Water Spots!!!! > Hey Guys, > At the NATC on Jekyll Island a sprinkler @ the cottage we were staying at > sprayed my Laurel TR6 with some nasty hard water, or worst I guess. What > was left are some real nasty water spots. Now home, I have first tried wax, > no good, then #7 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze Polish, nope still there. Now > what? > Thanks in Advance, > Darrell > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Oct 23 18:04:04 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 19:04:04 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Proper fill on a Triumph TR6 brake master res. - Leaking cap Message-ID: <104585988.665809.1287878644841.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> Ok list, the fun just goes on. New brake master cylinder, new servo, and new reseroir. Went back to the shop the third time, and the servo is fine after a new hose. They replaced the cap, said it was ok, and had fluid on it after the ride home. About 30 miles. Cleaned it up, cap on, drive Friday and Saturday, in the garage tonight working on another issue, no leak. An hour later, walk past it and fluid is coming out from under the cap. The cap is so tight that I have to use an oil filter wrench to get it off. Needless to say, I am not a happy camper. I took the cap off of my old unit, cleaned up the new, and put it on. Sent a note to the shop labled "ball four". List, it is not over-filled. Why would the cap get so tight that it is difficult to remove? Seems to me there is pressure in the system that is sucking the cap down onto it. Is this possible? I am really at a loss. Thanks, Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Oct 23, 2010 11:16:31 AM, yellowtr at adelphia.net wrote: On Friday, October 22, 2010 07:57:39 pm thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > List, > > You have heard my story about my brake system repair. > > The shop put a new cap on the reservoir, and thought that was it. > > So, easy question that is not stated in the maint. manual, how full should > the reservoir be on a topped on newly bled system on the TR6. How far > from the top lip should the fluid be, and if over that height, it would be > "to full". > > Thanks, > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > Craig, According to the TR6 handbook on page 58 the fluid level should never go below the danger line. As pictured it is where the top oval portion of the reservoir meets the lower straight portion. So I would guess that any level above that is ok up to the bottom of the filler cap. I just finished bleeding my 72 brakes and I left the fluid level to about 1/2 below the lower cap. Bob From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Oct 23 18:38:31 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 20:38:31 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Message-ID: <3e0d.6f4800d7.39f4da07@cs.com> Well, I'm back. Almost drove it straight through but we stopped about an hour and a half from home. That was after about 14 - 15 hours behind the wheel. I guess I'm getting old. I had a great time in spite of the fact that I didn't bring a Triumph.. Great setting, great to get together with all the buds, the beer swap has evolved into one of the more popular events (Congratulations to Tom Fansher winning the popular volt on Homebrew). It was great to meet some new faces from the list and great to see old, familiar faces once more. But the highlight of the event was the opportunity to drive Marty Sukey's Spitfire in the autocross. I don't care that I was just his tire warmer. I don't care that I was just cannon fodder for the other great drivers (Marty included) to aim for. It was worth it just to drive his car around the course. Another big thanks to Glenn Menucci for letting me drive his 320 HP Porsche 928 once during the fun runs. Kudos to the organizers. Kudos to Jack and Caroline McGahey, Ronny Babbit and all the ocal folks from the Carolinas, Florida and Georgia for hosting a well run event. Thanks also to the VTR usuals. Blake, Darrell and Bev, and all the national folks who help make thiese things possible. Dave From pethier at comcast.net Sat Oct 23 19:05:52 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 01:05:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Water Spots!!!! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1034512661.255134.1287882352196.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Did you have wax on the car? If so, I'd think that washing with Dawn to take off all the wax should do it. Then rewax. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: TR250Driver at aol.com > To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 4:34:36 PM > Subject: [TR] Water Spots!!!! > > Hey Guys, > At the NATC on Jekyll Island a sprinkler @ the cottage we were staying > at > sprayed my Laurel TR6 with some nasty hard water, or worst I guess. > What > was left are some real nasty water spots. Now home, I have first > tried wax, > no good, then #7 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze Polish, nope still > there. Now > what? > Thanks in Advance, > Darrell > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 23 19:25:12 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 18:25:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Proper fill on a Triumph TR6 brake master res. - Leaking cap In-Reply-To: <104585988.665809.1287878644841.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> References: <104585988.665809.1287878644841.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <09ba01cb731a$4eadfb80$0301a8c0@randall> > Why would the cap get so tight > that it is difficult to remove? Obvious explanation is that the threads are not molded properly. > Seems to me there is > pressure in the system that is sucking the cap down onto it. > Is this possible? Marginally. Is there no vent hole in the new cap? It's important. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 23 19:37:06 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 18:37:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Troubles ... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <09bb01cb731b$f83d0190$0301a8c0@randall> > (BTW when > the CLICK happens Ammeter pegs discharge) >< > Bad > Starter ?????? Sure sounds like it to me. I would try pulling the small wire off of the starter and turn the key again. If the ammeter still pegs, there is a short somewhere else. But if not, the short must be inside the starter solenoid (which is part of the gear drive starter). Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 23 19:42:48 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 18:42:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration In-Reply-To: <10361618B3F1423F8CEEE8CD08985FCF@userb38463fba5> References: <466FA82B-F57A-4EAA-B587-7902D6AFECF4@bcdef.net> <10361618B3F1423F8CEEE8CD08985FCF@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <09bc01cb731c$c3d33b30$0301a8c0@randall> > Assuming that you did not change the Rear End gearing there > is no need to > re-calibrate the speedometer when installing an OD > transmission. Actually, there might be. If the OD came out of another car, or a late TR6 (J-type OD), the speedometer drive gears may be "wrong". There are several people selling ODs on eBay, claiming they are for Triumphs when they actually came from a Volvo. Volvos do not use the same drive gears. Plus, the gearing changed between early and late TR6. IIRC the change happened at the same time they switched from A-type to J-type. Randall From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Oct 24 06:38:10 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 08:38:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration References: <466FA82B-F57A-4EAA-B587-7902D6AFECF4@bcdef.net><10361618B3F1423F8CEEE8CD08985FCF@userb38463fba5> <09bc01cb731c$c3d33b30$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <163E92FD5A3B4D8C950F2073BA39A3D0@userb38463fba5> Then the writer had better know what he has before he asks for re-calibration otherwise what is the speedo shop going to use as a base line? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 9:42 PM Subject: Re: [TR] speedometer calibration >> Assuming that you did not change the Rear End gearing there >> is no need to >> re-calibrate the speedometer when installing an OD >> transmission. > > Actually, there might be. If the OD came out of another car, or a late > TR6 > (J-type OD), the speedometer drive gears may be "wrong". There are > several > people selling ODs on eBay, claiming they are for Triumphs when they > actually came from a Volvo. Volvos do not use the same drive gears. > > Plus, the gearing changed between early and late TR6. IIRC the change > happened at the same time they switched from A-type to J-type. > > Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 24 06:58:16 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 05:58:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration In-Reply-To: <163E92FD5A3B4D8C950F2073BA39A3D0@userb38463fba5> References: <466FA82B-F57A-4EAA-B587-7902D6AFECF4@bcdef.net><10361618B3F1423F8CEEE8CD08985FCF@userb38463fba5> <09bc01cb731c$c3d33b30$0301a8c0@randall> <163E92FD5A3B4D8C950F2073BA39A3D0@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <09e901cb737b$202023e0$0301a8c0@randall> > Then the writer had better know what he has before he asks for > re-calibration otherwise what is the speedo shop going to use > as a base line? I believe that was the point of this thread; checking the installed setup to see what speedo calibration is required. Also a way to compensate for tire size changes, etc. Randall From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Oct 24 07:13:21 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 09:13:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration References: <466FA82B-F57A-4EAA-B587-7902D6AFECF4@bcdef.net><10361618B3F1423F8CEEE8CD08985FCF@userb38463fba5><09bc01cb731c$c3d33b30$0301a8c0@randall><163E92FD5A3B4D8C950F2073BA39A3D0@userb38463fba5> <09e901cb737b$202023e0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <15C9E54857B54256A471EA33E02F17F7@userb38463fba5> I read the post as I've installed an Overdrive therefore I need to have my speedometer recalibrated. I responded that it was not necessary for just an Overdrive install. Your further post pointed out some instances where that may not be accurate and you are correct. No where in the original post was there any mention of the use of J types or Volvo OD's etc. There was no mention of tire size changes either. I didn't get all of that as the point of the original thread. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 8:58 AM Subject: Re: [TR] speedometer calibration >> Then the writer had better know what he has before he asks for >> re-calibration otherwise what is the speedo shop going to use >> as a base line? > > I believe that was the point of this thread; checking the installed setup > to > see what speedo calibration is required. Also a way to compensate for > tire > size changes, etc. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 24 07:21:46 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 06:21:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <09ed01cb737e$68b7f170$0301a8c0@randall> > Does > anyone know which way the switch should be set for positive > ground, up or > down? There is no indication on the radio which way to set it > and I don't want > to apply power till I know which way to set it. One way to find out: Remove the covers and look for the main filter capacitor (usually pretty obvious, the largest round can-shaped thing) which should have polarity markings on it. With no power connected to the radio, turn it's switch "on" and use an ohmmeter to determine which terminal of the capacitor is connected directly (0 ohms) to either the chassis or the power input lead. Double-check by flipping the polarity switch and testing again. If the "-" terminal is connected directly to the power input lead, or "+" directly to ground (the former is more likely); then the radio is configured for positive ground. Randall From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sun Oct 24 08:19:47 2010 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 22:19:47 +0800 Subject: [TR] Removing hard water stains Message-ID: Try a dilute solution of vinegar to remove hard water stains. The alkaline salts are usually quite soluble in weak acids, although they cwn be surprisingly tough to get off otherwise. Shouldn't hurt anything else with quick exposure and then washing off. Don TR3B TSF202L From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Oct 24 09:49:42 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 11:49:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration In-Reply-To: <0BEC5F41D43E44A8B69A7328166C0D30@BobPC> References: <466FA82B-F57A-4EAA-B587-7902D6AFECF4@bcdef.net> <0BEC5F41D43E44A8B69A7328166C0D30@BobPC> Message-ID: Thanks Bob - very useful Just to see what to expect... I followed the 'how to calculate' instructions. My Dunlop SP20 A/S (165/[80/]15) = 25.39 calculated diameter and I measured it at 25.5. The tire is no longer available so I couldn't find manufacturer's data. TPM (loaded) would be 815.7-819.2 depending on which number I use. Given the way I measured it, the calculated diameter is probably closer to actual. @819.2 Theoretical calibration = 1213. I have a 1216 speedometer (original to the car) so by my calculations for every 1000 miles (on the speedometer) I drive it would actually be 1002.4 (or would it be 997.6) I can live with either and unless actual is way off from the calculated - no need to have the speedometer recalibrated. Now to get the car on the road and see.... It should be back from the painter next week. I am working on the seats, dash & cappings this weekend. Next weekend - all of the little bits start going back on the car.... finishing up the wiring install as I go. Carl 1961 TR3A BRG/Tan TS81802LO - I can almost taste the first drive... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "Alexander Delis" ; "Triumph List" Sent: Friday, October 22, 2010 11:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] speedometer calibration > The whole process is outlined on my site > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm and if you're > smart you'll send the speedo and cable (most cables aren't within spec) > off to Morris at West Valley Instrument. That's who the 6-Pack guys use > and who Moss recommends. > > Bob Danielson From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 24 11:28:40 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 10:28:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] speedometer calibration In-Reply-To: <09e901cb737b$202023e0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <466FA82B-F57A-4EAA-B587-7902D6AFECF4@bcdef.net><10361618B3F1423F8CEEE8CD08985FCF@userb38463fba5> <09bc01cb731c$c3d33b30$0301a8c0@randall> <163E92FD5A3B4D8C950F2073BA39A3D0@userb38463fba5> <09e901cb737b$202023e0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <765509.94083.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i don't now about the accuracy of GPS. but if you have or can borrow a portable most have a speed feature. i ran on the freeway at 40/60/80 and found i was just 2 or 3 MPH off at every speed. Frank ________________________________ From: Randall To: Triumph List Sent: Sun, October 24, 2010 5:58:16 AM Subject: Re: [TR] speedometer calibration > Then the writer had better know what he has before he asks for > re-calibration otherwise what is the speedo shop going to use > as a base line? I believe that was the point of this thread; checking the installed setup to see what speedo calibration is required. Also a way to compensate for tire size changes, etc. Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Oct 24 18:55:28 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 20:55:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedometer/Tachometer bracket Message-ID: <00b301cb73df$52ae3180$f80a9480$@net> Anyone know of a source or have the S/T part number? From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Oct 25 07:01:16 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 09:01:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - assistance identifying part Message-ID: <8911B17AD58D449BA2C27F956CCFB25D@CarlPC> image at:- - http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_0233-2.jpg They are about 16" long by 1" with a capture nut on one end. 2 - mirror images of each other (left/right side?) Also - does anyone have an image of the combination tool for TR3 tool roll? Thanks Carl From davidt at opentext.com Mon Oct 25 07:27:48 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 09:27:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - assistance identifying part In-Reply-To: <8911B17AD58D449BA2C27F956CCFB25D@CarlPC> References: <8911B17AD58D449BA2C27F956CCFB25D@CarlPC> Message-ID: Isn't that the dash braces? In either side of the heater? David '59 tr3a -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 9:01 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] TR3 - assistance identifying part image at:- - http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_0233-2.jpg They are about 16" long by 1" with a capture nut on one end. 2 - mirror images of each other (left/right side?) Also - does anyone have an image of the combination tool for TR3 tool roll? Thanks Carl _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt at opentext.com From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Oct 25 08:43:43 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 07:43:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Defrosters Message-ID: <90595.60480.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Last year I put a Maradyne heater in my TR3. I really like the heater and stay toasty warm on my way to work and the fan blows pretty hard. The Maradyne has dual 1.75" diameter defroster outlets. The TR3 defroster hoses are 1.25" diameter, so I made adapter fittings out of PVC on my lathe and hooked up the TRF sources 1.25" corrugated defroster hoses. The ducts have no sharp bends or 90 degree angles. I only hooked up the driver's side as a test. Driving to work this morning I configured the vents so 100% of the heater air would go through the drivers defroster. Man, barely any air would come out. As a matter of fact, it was hard to tell if ANY air was coming though. The vent is clear of obstructions. What gives? I am thinking that the rough corrugated hose may have friction losses. I am considering buying an aluminum hose from MMC(item 5262K21). I am also considering trying to open the defroster vent up a little bit. Anyone else have this problem? It seems like it should blow like crazy out the vent. TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Oct 25 11:02:10 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 13:02:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: TR3 Heater coil Message-ID: I won some gift certificates for powder coating at the All British Show here in Safety Harbor this past weekend. I decided to take my heater unit (dismantled) to be done. Bottom cover/doors in wrinkle finish everything else except the silverish piece in semi-gloss black. The question is whether the coil itself should be powder coated or remain 'au natural'? He can do the top and bottom plate and mask off the coil (inside & out). However, the guy at the shop said there shouldn't be any problem with PC'g it and it would in fact increase the 'insulation' factor. I couldn't decide if that is good or bad. Advice? Thanks Carl From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Oct 25 11:09:06 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 13:09:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - assistance identifying part In-Reply-To: <5D662A75-69C7-4F9B-A822-EAFA10C8A5C8@columbus.rr.com> References: <8911B17AD58D449BA2C27F956CCFB25D@CarlPC> <5D662A75-69C7-4F9B-A822-EAFA10C8A5C8@columbus.rr.com> Message-ID: <7C819C1732E242F3B2EA51B9F5A05FED@CarlPC> Thanks Tom. That is what I needed. Mine looks like that albeit rusty as a nail. The schematics in most of the parts books has a piece continuing straight out from the main rod. I know not for what purpose. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Householder" To: "Carl TR" Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 9:12 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - assistance identifying part > http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/Tools.htm > > > On Oct 25, 2010, at 9:01 AM, Carl TR wrote: > >> image at:- - >> http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_0233-2.jpg >> >> They are about 16" long by 1" with a capture nut on one end. 2 - >> mirror >> images of each other (left/right side?) >> >> Also - does anyone have an image of the combination tool for TR3 tool >> roll? >> >> Thanks >> Carl >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ >> trhouse at columbus.rr.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Oct 25 11:12:23 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 13:12:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - assistance identifying part In-Reply-To: <005401cb7461$0d422700$0301a8c0@randall> References: <8911B17AD58D449BA2C27F956CCFB25D@CarlPC> <005401cb7461$0d422700$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <78E8127E0C0D49E19960EFF681012D89@CarlPC> Thanks Randall - That is very possible. Anyone with a '4 or later that recognizes them? I was afraid I missed something. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Carl TR'" Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 12:24 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - assistance identifying part >I don't believe those are from a TR3/A. Might be dash supports or similar > for a later TR. > > Randall > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR >> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 6:01 AM >> To: Triumph List >> Subject: [TR] TR3 - assistance identifying part >> >> image at:- - >> http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_0233-2.jpg >> >> They are about 16" long by 1" with a capture nut on one end. >> 2 - mirror >> images of each other (left/right side?) >> >> Also - does anyone have an image of the combination tool for >> TR3 tool roll? >> >> Thanks >> Carl >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Manage your account: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com From davidt at opentext.com Mon Oct 25 11:28:24 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 13:28:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: TR3 Heater coil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Carl, My heater was done in crinkle with the core being left natural, the rest was bead blasted and painted gloss rust black ( 2 coats ) and a coat rust clear. All came out really nice. David '59 tr3a -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 1:02 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Fw: TR3 Heater coil I won some gift certificates for powder coating at the All British Show here in Safety Harbor this past weekend. I decided to take my heater unit (dismantled) to be done. Bottom cover/doors in wrinkle finish everything else except the silverish piece in semi-gloss black. The question is whether the coil itself should be powder coated or remain 'au natural'? He can do the top and bottom plate and mask off the coil (inside & out). However, the guy at the shop said there shouldn't be any problem with PC'g it and it would in fact increase the 'insulation' factor. I couldn't decide if that is good or bad. Advice? Thanks Carl _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt at opentext.com From tr3 at roadrunner.com Mon Oct 25 11:55:11 2010 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 10:55:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper motor In-Reply-To: <961606.51658.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <305148.87783.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <19B940EE1C384891B609A494DF2893ED@bboffice> <961606.51658.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <67EEBA6F-ECFD-4244-9421-96C552D486A5@roadrunner.com> > red wire is very > long and looks like it has to come out of the motor on the > left side where the > hot wires connect to.. the red wire is considerably > longer than mine on > TS41366. > i cant find a hole on the right side of the assembly to route the red > wire > through. > was this a later modification? Frank, My TR3A is a 1961, TS81000 +. It has a hole for the red wire to pass through just above where the gear box is attached to the motor (between the motor and gear box) I can send a pic if you want. The brushes where still in good shape when I overhauled the motor so I re- installed the originals; I can't remember seeing any V-groves. I may have some pics showing the original brushes. Hans On Oct 22, 2010, at 8:06 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: > he is pretty sure its original to the car. > car was purchased by his father in > mid 60's when it was a couple years old and > was given to him for high school. > to all extents it looks exactly like my wiper motor and all other > TR3 motors. > except for the routing of the red wire > frank > ________________________________ > From: "wbeech at flash.net" > To: Frank Fisher ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, > October 21, 2010 3:17:16 PM > Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 wiper motor > > Frank, > I went > through a lot of pictures when I rebuilt mine last year and don't > recall any > with the park wire running externally. They all went through the > housing and > out the little hole as you describe. Can you friend be sure > that his is the > original motor to the car? > > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: > triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Frank Fisher > Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2010 12:44 PM > To: > triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper motor > > looking at a wiper > motor rebuild for my buddy. > his car is late TR3 1962ish > all > of the wiper > motors i have seen have the red wire that goes to the round > circle thing (that > controls the park placement) come out of the body of the > wiper motor on its > right side as you look at it from the front of the car. > his > red wire is very > long and looks like it has to come out of the motor on the > left side where the > hot wires connect to.. the red wire is considerably > longer than mine on > TS41366. > i cant find a hole on the right side of the assembly to route the red > wire > through. > was this a later modification? > motor was already > in pieces when > it was entrusted to me to rebuild. > > also when replacing the > bushes. the new > bushes have small "V" groves cut in them. > groves to the > commutator or to the > housing? > if groves to the commutator are they parallel or perpendicular to the > groves > of the commutator? > > thanks Frank > > photos > available if you need to see > them. > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage > your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com From carlsereda at aol.com Mon Oct 25 12:12:37 2010 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 11:12:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] oversize TR3 heater In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Bill did you leave passenger side heater port unhooked up?.. blown air would exit that side that has less resistance versus your restrictive (hooked up) driver side Carl 63TR474 I only hooked up the driver's side as a test. Driving to work this morning I configured the vents so 100% of the heater air would go through the drivers defroster. Man, barely any air would come out. As a matter of fact, it was hard to tell if ANY air was coming though. From guy at genfiniti.com Mon Oct 25 12:20:36 2010 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 13:20:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Parts Needed - TR4A Message-ID: Listers, Maybe I'm not looking hard enough, but I am having a difficult time locating the following parts. Can you help? LH and RH brackets for securing windshield frame to body tub Pedestal for mounting the high beam foot switch Top Latch for securing hood to windscreen, when closed (attaches to the hood frame) Hand brake pawl release, specifically the "button" you depress to release the brake (I have the rod, just no end "button") Small, plastic plugs that insert into the lower, front suspension arms (2 on each side) Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From aribert at c3net.net Mon Oct 25 14:55:44 2010 From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 16:55:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 6 cyl Camshaft Poll, flywheel advice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have a 2.5L in my Spit bodied GT6 that is a street only vehicle. Engine built up as follows: Head milled 0.135 & port matching & mild porting about the valve guide bosses, "S2" cam grind from BPNW, triple Weber DCOEs, 6 into 1 headers and an Aluminum flywheel from PAECO (say NO!, NO!, NO! to PAECO!). At about 65K miles the head gasket burned thru and once I had the head off and checked the cam, I found out that several of the cam lobes were wiped out. As part of the head gasket replacement: Now the head has 0.140+ removed, head studs instead of bolts, GoodParts bronze valve guides & Teflon seals (for the valve stems) and a GP2 cam. Subjectively, the S2 (before the lobes were wiped out)and the GP2 have a very similar performance. I now make sure that I run oil with a high ZDDP content. About 20K miles on the repaired motor. If money is a consideration, I would suggest that you consider using a GT6 flywheel instead of an aluminum one. I saw the slug of metal that the 2.5L flywheel is and assumed the GT6 one was the same. AFTER all my troubles with the PAECO flywheel, I discovered that the 2.0L flywheel is substantially lighter. In round numbers: 30 lbs TR6 flywheel, 18 lbs GT6 and my "street" aluminum "TR6" one comes in at 12 lbs. I bought my flywheel about the time that Al Gore invented the Internet and IO did not do a search on PAECO - now there are adequate reports of their products / service. My flywheel has a spray-braised ceramic (?) surface for the friction surface. I get to replace clutch discs every 15K miles. > I recently asked for experiences and opinions on 6 cyl camshafts on the > 6-Pack list and didn't receive as many responses as I had hoped for, so I > thought I would address this list with the same question. For those people > who are on both lists, I apologize and ask that you just skip over this > email. > > I am in the process of laying out the rebuild of my 2.5L 6-cyl and am > trying to decide which cam would be best for my use. I know this is a grey > area for many people and opinion is easier than fact, but I think the > members of this list are probably the best resource available to help me > decide. > > This is going to be for a street car, not a track runner. I live in an > area with lots of hills and winding roads, which I prefer over highway > running. > > Here's what I have decided so far: > I have the late model engine & head which will be balanced and blueprinted > with the head ported and CR raised to 9.5:1 or 10:1, and an aluminum > flywheel and fan eliminator added; I plan on the 1.65:1 roller rocker > setup; I'll be adding EFI (haven't decided on a system yet, but leaning > towards MPI over TBI) & an EDIS system; 6-3-1 headers w/ free-flow exhaust > system. I already have an A-Type overdrive for those times I will be > cruising on the freeway. > > My early favorites are the TR5 profile, Richard Good's GP2 or TSI's S-2. > The 6-Pack list query has brought another cam into consideration: Isky > Z-19. If you have another cam you're really happy with, please suggest it, > or give me your experiences with the above. I will report the results > (and my decision) once I have received all responses. > > Thanks in advance, > Raymond L. Hatfield From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Oct 25 16:38:00 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 18:38:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: TR3 Heater coil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201010251838.01563.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday, October 25, 2010 01:02:10 pm Carl TR wrote: > I won some gift certificates for powder coating at the All British Show > here in Safety Harbor this past weekend. > > I decided to take my heater unit (dismantled) to be done. > Bottom cover/doors in wrinkle finish everything else except the silverish > piece in semi-gloss black. > > The question is whether the coil itself should be powder coated or remain > 'au natural'? He can do the top and bottom plate and mask off the coil > (inside & out). However, the guy at the shop said there shouldn't be any > problem with PC'g it and it would in fact increase the 'insulation' > factor. I couldn't decide if that is good or bad. > > Advice? > > Thanks > Carl > Carl, Since I am not a PC expert, will the heat to bake the paint cause a problem with the solder used on the heater core? Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Oct 25 16:41:37 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 18:41:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - assistance identifying part In-Reply-To: <78E8127E0C0D49E19960EFF681012D89@CarlPC> References: <8911B17AD58D449BA2C27F956CCFB25D@CarlPC> <005401cb7461$0d422700$0301a8c0@randall> <78E8127E0C0D49E19960EFF681012D89@CarlPC> Message-ID: <201010251841.38166.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday, October 25, 2010 01:12:23 pm Carl TR wrote: > Thanks Randall - > That is very possible. Anyone with a '4 or later that recognizes them? > > I was afraid I missed something. Carl, They are not from a 4 or 6. Bob From miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 25 19:38:05 2010 From: miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net (Miscuse1) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 21:38:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: TR3 Heater coil In-Reply-To: <201010251838.01563.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201010251838.01563.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <000001cb74ae$70205610$50610230$@net> Like steering wheel boxes (the outer shaft is soldered to the gear box) and clutch brake reservoir, I would expect anything with solder to fail under the heat of power coating. (My C/B reservoir solder dripped under the heat but I have not tested it for leaks yet. I may have ruined it.) Also the purpose of the coil fins is to conduct the heat from the water inside the coils. The fan blowing air across the fins picks off that warmth and delivers it for your comfort. You don't want to insulate the fins. Maybe a light coat of rattle can paint to make it look pretty but a heavy coating only degrades the ability of the coils to function properly. The light coat will technically affect the performance but it is probably one of those technicalities that are measurable in a lab and not in the real world. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 6:38 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Carl TR Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: TR3 Heater coil On Monday, October 25, 2010 01:02:10 pm Carl TR wrote: > I won some gift certificates for powder coating at the All British Show > here in Safety Harbor this past weekend. > > I decided to take my heater unit (dismantled) to be done. > Bottom cover/doors in wrinkle finish everything else except the silverish > piece in semi-gloss black. > > The question is whether the coil itself should be powder coated or remain > 'au natural'? He can do the top and bottom plate and mask off the coil > (inside & out). However, the guy at the shop said there shouldn't be any > problem with PC'g it and it would in fact increase the 'insulation' > factor. I couldn't decide if that is good or bad. > > Advice? > > Thanks > Carl > Carl, Since I am not a PC expert, will the heat to bake the paint cause a problem with the solder used on the heater core? Bob _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Oct 25 20:21:13 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 22:21:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR In-Reply-To: <3e0d.6f4800d7.39f4da07@cs.com> References: <3e0d.6f4800d7.39f4da07@cs.com> Message-ID: I'm glad you enjoyed it and am even more glad you took it easy on me. I hate getting beat in my own car (Bob). We just got back. Stayed a couple of extra days at the Hampton on Jekyll. What a great hotel, if you go back give this hotel a try and you wont regret it. Spent the night last night in Virginia. Apparently there was a NASCAR race in Martinsville and it must have been near the hotel we randomly picked as we drove home. The hotel was full of fans after the race in full gear and all fired up. We show up with the race spitfire in tow and wearing Triumph shirts. Talking about standing out in a crowd. Anyway, we had a blast at VTR. Big thanks to Ronnie, Jack and Caroline and all others involved. Marty From: Dave1massey at cs.com Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 20:38:31 -0400 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] VTR Well, I'm back. Almost drove it straight through but we stopped about an hour and a half from home. That was after about 14 - 15 hours behind the wheel. I guess I'm getting old. But the highlight of the event was the opportunity to drive Marty Sukey's Spitfire in the autocross. I don't care that I was just his tire warmer. I don't care that I was just cannon fodder for the other great drivers (Marty included) to aim for. It was worth it just to drive his car around the course. Dave From john_finlayson at telus.net Mon Oct 25 23:47:45 2010 From: john_finlayson at telus.net (John Finlayson) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 22:47:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: <09ed01cb737e$68b7f170$0301a8c0@randall> References: <09ed01cb737e$68b7f170$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Thanks Randall I found the main capacitor (Bendix 2092983-0708). Unfortunately no polarity markings, at least none that I can see or understand. It's soldered to the circuit board. There may be markings on the underside but I can't get at them. It has "ear com neg" written vertically on the side of the can. Not sure how that might relate to the terminals on the bottom. It's mounted a little over an 8th of an inch above the board with some other small devices and device-board connections in that small space between the capacitor and the board. That made it a bit interesting to identify the capacitor terminals. There are three spade connectors equidistantly spaced just inside the outer edge of the capacitor base and one longer wire connector more inboard. With no power to the radio but the power switch "on" and the polarity switch set "up" all three spade connectors show a direct connection to the power lead and the wire connector shows a direct connection to the chassis. With the polarity switch flipped "down" the three spades now show a direct connection to the chassis and the wire connector shows a direct connection to the power lead. Any additional help would be appreciated. Thanks John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'John Finlayson'" ; Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 6:21 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio > > >> Does >> anyone know which way the switch should be set for positive >> ground, up or >> down? There is no indication on the radio which way to set it >> and I don't want >> to apply power till I know which way to set it. > > One way to find out: Remove the covers and look for the main filter > capacitor (usually pretty obvious, the largest round can-shaped thing) > which > should have polarity markings on it. With no power connected to the > radio, > turn it's switch "on" and use an ohmmeter to determine which terminal of > the > capacitor is connected directly (0 ohms) to either the chassis or the > power > input lead. Double-check by flipping the polarity switch and testing > again. > > If the "-" terminal is connected directly to the power input lead, or "+" > directly to ground (the former is more likely); then the radio is > configured > for positive ground. > > Randall From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Oct 26 06:21:27 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 05:21:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Defrosters In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <90558.48995.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> When I close the vents I still don't get any appreciable air out the vents. I tried pulling the hose off at the heater and it blows serious air out. Either the defroster vent is blocking the air or the hose is preventing the air (or both). I ordered a smoother bore hose from McMaster Carr and will try that. If it doesn't help enough then I plan to modify the vent itself to make the outlet bigger. Bill in Tehachapi --- On Tue, 10/26/10, Chris Simo wrote: From: Chris Simo Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Defrosters To: "William Brewer" Date: Tuesday, October 26, 2010, 5:00 AM What happens when you close the vent? can it force air out the defroster then? if not -- can you temproarily duct tape the vent closed fully and see what happens? - I had to put some blowers in the duct work in my house to get heat to some rooms --- seems impradtical solution for TRs... keep me posted on the heater --- my stock one blows (barely). chris On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 10:43 AM, William Brewer wrote: Last year I put a Maradyne heater in my TR3. I really like the heater and stay toasty warm on my way to work and the fan blows pretty hard. The Maradyne has dual 1.75" diameter defroster outlets. The TR3 defroster hoses are 1.25" diameter, so I made adapter fittings out of PVC on my lathe and hooked up the TRF sources 1.25" corrugated defroster hoses. The ducts have no sharp bends or 90 degree angles. I only hooked up the driver's side as a test. Driving to work this morning I configured the vents so 100% of the heater air would go through the drivers defroster. Man, barely any air would come out. As a matter of fact, it was hard to tell if ANY air was coming though. The vent is clear of obstructions. What gives? I am thinking that the rough corrugated hose may have friction losses. I am considering buying an aluminum hose from MMC(item 5262K21). I am also considering trying to open the defroster vent up a little bit. Anyone else have this problem? It seems like it should blow like crazy out the vent. TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Tue Oct 26 09:50:24 2010 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 16:50:24 +0100 Subject: [TR] Parts Needed - TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have the high beam switch support in green. I am In UK. This has been removed from a tenessee car when converted to Rhd it is not required. Make me an offer. Post will be at cost. I can accept Paypal. Regards Adrian Tr4a ct63406 o On Monday, October 25, 2010, Guy D. Huggins wrote: > Listers, > > Maybe I'm not looking hard enough, but I am having a difficult time locating > the following parts. > Can you help? > > LH and RH brackets for securing windshield frame to body tub > Pedestal for mounting the high beam foot switch > Top Latch for securing hood to windscreen, when closed (attaches to the hood > frame) > Hand brake pawl release, specifically the "button" you depress to release the > brake (I have the rod, just no end "button") > Small, plastic plugs that insert into the lower, front suspension arms (2 on > each side) > > Any help is greatly appreciated. > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO > > Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Oct 26 10:21:18 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 11:21:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Triumph_Bendix_Radio?= Message-ID: <20101026162027.39C8918765E@autox.team.net> Hi all... What does the early tr4 radio look like? Is it the same as the tr6 with flat knobs? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "John Finlayson" Date: Tue, Oct 26, 2010 00:47 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio To: "Randall" , Thanks Randall I found the main capacitor (Bendix 2092983-0708). Unfortunately no polarity markings, at least none that I can see or understand. It's soldered to the circuit board. There may be markings on the underside but I can't get at them. It has "ear com neg" written vertically on the side of the can. Not sure how that might relate to the terminals on the bottom. It's mounted a little over an 8th of an inch above the board with some other small devices and device-board connections in that small space between the capacitor and the board. That made it a bit interesting to identify the capacitor terminals. There are three spade connectors equidistantly spaced just inside the outer edge of the capacitor base and one longer wire connector more inboard. With no power to the radio but the power switch "on" and the polarity switch set "up" all three spade connectors show a direct connection to the power lead and the wire connector shows a direct connection to the chassis. With the polarity switch flipped "down" the three spades now show a direct connection to the chassis and the wire connector shows a direct connection to the power lead. Any additional help would be appreciated. Thanks John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'John Finlayson'" ; Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 6:21 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio > > >> Does >> anyone know which way the switch should be set for positive >> ground, up or >> down? There is no indication on the radio which way to set it >> and I don't want >> to apply power till I know which way to set it. > > One way to find out: Remove the covers and look for the main filter > capacitor (usually pretty obvious, the largest round can-shaped thing) > which > should have polarity markings on it. With no power connected to the > radio, > turn it's switch "on" and use an ohmmeter to determine which terminal of > the > capacitor is connected directly (0 ohms) to either the chassis or the > power > input lead. Double-check by flipping the polarity switch and testing > again. > > If the "-" terminal is connected directly to the power input lead, or "+" > directly to ground (the former is more likely); then the radio is > configured > for positive ground. > > Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 26 10:24:23 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 09:24:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: References: <09ed01cb737e$68b7f170$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <015901cb752a$406cf5f0$0301a8c0@randall> > It has "ear com neg" written vertically on the side of > the can. Not > sure how that might relate to the terminals on the bottom. That means that the mounting tabs are also the negative terminal. > There are three spade connectors equidistantly spaced just > inside the outer > edge of the capacitor base Those are the mounting tabs, so negative. > and one longer wire connector more inboard. Which will be the positive. > With no power to the radio but the power switch "on" and the > polarity switch > set "up" all three spade connectors show a direct connection > to the power > lead and the wire connector shows a direct connection to the > chassis. So that is the positive ground configuration. > With > the polarity switch flipped "down" the three spades now show a direct > connection to the chassis and the wire connector shows a > direct connection > to the power lead. For negative ground. Randall From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Oct 26 10:32:21 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 09:32:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Defroster (continued) Message-ID: <118714.17688.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Yeah, I had everything plugged up at the heater except the driver's side defrost. I'll post to the list how smoother ducts and a modified defroster vent work. Man, this project just won't end. If it would, then I bet that everyone else would have done the same thing by now. -Bill Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 11:12:37 -0700 From: carlsereda Subject: Re: [TR] oversize TR3 heater To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Bill did you leave passenger side heater port unhooked up?.. blown air would exit that side that has less resistance versus your restrictive (hooked up) driver side Carl 63TR474 I only hooked up the driver's side as a test. Driving to work this morning I configured the vents so 100% of the heater air would go through the drivers defroster. Man, barely any air would come out. As a matter of fact, it was hard to tell if ANY air was coming though. From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Oct 26 10:37:21 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 11:37:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Tr4_brakes?= Message-ID: <20101026163630.3FB9218765E@autox.team.net> Hi all, Question ct 312 has the large rear brakes. Are these the same as the large rear drums on the tr3? Thanks! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue Oct 26 11:01:27 2010 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 12:01:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater Coil Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E8704369190F9@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> If painting the heater coil / radiator, heavy load paints impair efficiency. Eastwood makes a very light paint that will protect the radiator / coil yet have little impact on heat transfer: http://tinyurl.com/36n8ygc Brian From lherault at bu.edu Tue Oct 26 11:16:47 2010 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 13:16:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <008001cb7531$91f76cf0$56d6299b@ad.bu.edu> If the metal tabs are negative (and hence the whole outside of the can, then all the terminals coming out of the insulating material would be positive. Ron L From john_finlayson at telus.net Tue Oct 26 11:50:40 2010 From: john_finlayson at telus.net (John Finlayson) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 10:50:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: <015901cb752a$406cf5f0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <09ed01cb737e$68b7f170$0301a8c0@randall> <015901cb752a$406cf5f0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Thanks so much Randall. Now I can apply some power and see if it works. John '62 TR4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2010 9:24 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio >> It has "ear com neg" written vertically on the side of >> the can. Not >> sure how that might relate to the terminals on the bottom. > > That means that the mounting tabs are also the negative terminal. > >> There are three spade connectors equidistantly spaced just >> inside the outer >> edge of the capacitor base > > Those are the mounting tabs, so negative. > >> and one longer wire connector more inboard. > > Which will be the positive. > >> With no power to the radio but the power switch "on" and the >> polarity switch >> set "up" all three spade connectors show a direct connection >> to the power >> lead and the wire connector shows a direct connection to the >> chassis. > > So that is the positive ground configuration. > >> With >> the polarity switch flipped "down" the three spades now show a direct >> connection to the chassis and the wire connector shows a >> direct connection >> to the power lead. > > For negative ground. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john_finlayson at telus.net From buik57389 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 26 11:57:33 2010 From: buik57389 at yahoo.com (Karl Sisson) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 10:57:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Invitation to connect on LinkedIn Message-ID: <644381208.2850199.1288115853917.JavaMail.app@ech3-cdn07.prod> LinkedIn ------------ I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn. - Karl Karl Sisson Independent Construction Professional Winnipeg, Canada Area Confirm that you know Karl Sisson https://www.linkedin.com/e/-dktdjb-gfr2x5y2-5l/isd/1827819525/xzkzCt9I/ -- (c) 2010, LinkedIn Corporation From john_finlayson at telus.net Tue Oct 26 12:35:46 2010 From: john_finlayson at telus.net (John Finlayson) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 11:35:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: <19740415072456.1D94B1F0BCC43D4F@edtnaa20.telusplanet.net> References: <19740415072456.1D94B1F0BCC43D4F@edtnaa20.telusplanet.net> Message-ID: <25836D5E792C44E486CC470E9B0D25DE@JohnPC> There is a picture of the 7btrx (#68) at this website http://www.bendixradiofoundation.com/documents/Artifact_Auto.pdf It's a 1967 model radio so is not original for my '62 TR4. John '62 TR4 ----- Original Message ----- From: spook01 at comcast.net To: John Finlayson ; Randall ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2010 9:21 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio Hi all... What does the early tr4 radio look like? Is it the same as the tr6 with flat knobs? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "John Finlayson" Date: Tue, Oct 26, 2010 00:47 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio To: "Randall" , Thanks Randall I found the main capacitor (Bendix 2092983-0708). Unfortunately no polarity markings, at least none that I can see or understand. It's soldered to the circuit board. There may be markings on the underside but I can't get at them. It has "ear com neg" written vertically on the side of the can. Not sure how that might relate to the terminals on the bottom. It's mounted a little over an 8th of an inch above the board with some other small devices and device-board connections in that small space between the capacitor and the board. That made it a bit interesting to identify the capacitor terminals. There are three spade connectors equidistantly spaced just inside the outer edge of the capacitor base and one longer wire connector more inboard. With no power to the radio but the power switch "on" and the polarity switch set "up" all three spade connectors show a direct connection to the power lead and the wire connector shows a direct connection to the chassis. With the polarity switch flipped "down" the three spades now show a direct connection to the chassis and the wire connector shows a direct connection to the power lead. Any additional help would be appreciated. Thanks John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'John Finlayson'" ; Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 6:21 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio > > >> Does >> anyone know which way the switch should be set for positive >> ground, up or >> down? There is no indication on the radio which way to set it >> and I don't want >> to apply power till I know which way to set it. > > One way to find out: Remove the covers and look for the main filter > capacitor (usually pretty obvious, the largest round can-shaped thing) > which > should have polarity markings on it. With no power connected to the > radio, > turn it's switch "on" and use an ohmmeter to determine which terminal of > the > capacitor is connected directly (0 ohms) to either the chassis or the > power > input lead. Double-check by flipping the polarity switch and testing > again. > > If the "-" terminal is connected directly to the power input lead, or "+" > directly to ground (the former is more likely); then the radio is > configured > for positive ground. > > Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 26 12:43:41 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 11:43:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: References: <09ed01cb737e$68b7f170$0301a8c0@randall> <015901cb752a$406cf5f0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <08b101cb753d$b8c82390$2a586ab0$@rr.com> > Now I can apply some power and see if it works. If you can, it might be best to bring the supply voltage up slowly. This is probably less important at 12v, but back when the B+ voltage was 150v (for vacuum tubes), there could be a problem with electrolytic capacitors that had not been used for a long time losing the thin oxide layer that forms the dielectric. Starting out at a lower voltage would give the layer a chance to reform, and reduce the odds of the capacitor failing. But it's not that big a deal, so if you don't have a variable DC power supply handy, don't worry about it. -- Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Oct 26 12:51:55 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 11:51:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Troubles ... Message-ID: Some things do work out ... removed the starter tested it, worked fine in both modes (motor only/motor solenoid). Cleaned all the terminals, put it back in ... that top bold is a bear, very little clearance, ended up wrapping the nut with electrical tape and forcing it in the my nice long, thin end wrench, actually got it started on the first try ... some things do work out. Rosey started as she should and all is normal now. In retrospect, I think she heard my threat to sell her and got her mind in a "snit", so once I cleaned everything, bought her a new battery (which I don't think she really needed) I am once more out of the doghouse, and she is behaving. Thanks for allowing me to cry on your shoulders ... :'( > > >Well at least the TR6 got us home from Morgan Hill ... Simple job, >replace leaking valve cover gasket ... no problem ... Turned key to >start and check for leaks ... CLICK ... OK, I had been working on >the lights too, replaced the Lucas bulbs with halogen (so we could >actually see the road), so maybe the battery is down ... charged the >battery ... CLICK ... Of to NAPA for new battery ... CLICK (BTW when >the CLICK happens Ammeter pegs discharge) ... So somehow the started >is hung up ... pushed the 6 down the driveway ... starts no problem, >drive back to the garage, shut down ... try again CLICK !! Bad >Starter ?????? It has one of the high torque starters (it came with >it, I did not install it) any Trouble shooting tips ??? > >Just to make things so VERY special, when I closed the door ... it >will not latch ... I have done nothing to the damn door ... did not >jack it up, put strain on it in any way, just refuses to latch. > >Want to buy a TR6 cheap ... no ... just joking. > > >Any help kindly appreciated my Friends ... > > >"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people >undertake it." - Henry Ford >Bill Pugh >1957 TR3 >"Casper" >TS16765L >Wallace, CA From john_finlayson at telus.net Tue Oct 26 13:29:55 2010 From: john_finlayson at telus.net (John Finlayson) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 12:29:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: <08b101cb753d$b8c82390$2a586ab0$@rr.com> References: <09ed01cb737e$68b7f170$0301a8c0@randall> <015901cb752a$406cf5f0$0301a8c0@randall> <08b101cb753d$b8c82390$2a586ab0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8430E161C2704840964EDF375E042ACD@JohnPC> I don't have a variable DC power supply but I will look into getting one. Trying to solve the polarity problem, I got some insight into polarity sensitive electrolytic capacitors from some websites, their ability to heal and also their catastrophic failure if hooked up wrong. Thanks for the tip. John '62 TR4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'John Finlayson'" ; Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2010 11:43 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio >> Now I can apply some power and see if it works. > > If you can, it might be best to bring the supply voltage up slowly. This > is > probably less important at 12v, but back when the B+ voltage was 150v (for > vacuum tubes), there could be a problem with electrolytic capacitors that > had not been used for a long time losing the thin oxide layer that forms > the > dielectric. Starting out at a lower voltage would give the layer a chance > to reform, and reduce the odds of the capacitor failing. > > But it's not that big a deal, so if you don't have a variable DC power > supply handy, don't worry about it. > > -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 26 14:27:59 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 13:27:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Troubles ... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <08d201cb754c$4dca29d0$e95e7d70$@rr.com> > that top bold is a bear, very little > clearance, FWIW, I installed a Helicoil in that hole, which makes installing a starter MUCH easier. This was actually done with the engine & transmission in the car! No drilling required, I just ran the tap in and installed the insert as usual. Worked great for years (even after I bought a new gear drive starter and quit having to rework the original one every few months ) For the original installation, I just put the insert in the engine block. This seemed to work fine for me, even though it meant that bolt was no longer helping clamp the transmission flange to the engine block. There is another bolt close by, so it shouldn't be a problem. However when I moved the gearbox & starter to the 'project' TR3, I installed the insert in the transmission flange instead, so now the bolt is also doing clamp duty. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 26 14:34:24 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 13:34:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr4 brakes In-Reply-To: <20101026163630.3FB9218765E@autox.team.net> References: <20101026163630.3FB9218765E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <08d301cb754d$2e2d6690$8a8833b0$@rr.com> > Question ct 312 has the large rear brakes. Are these the same as the > large rear drums on the tr3? They would interchange (if you include the backing plate), but AFAIK no TR4 had 10" rear brakes originally. Sounds like someone did a conversion. -- Randall From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Oct 26 17:57:35 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 19:57:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Autocross in-car video In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwsS7DT2C-w Above is a link to an in-car video of one of my autocross runs at the VTR national convention at Jekyll Island Marty From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Oct 26 18:22:38 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 20:22:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Autocross in-car video In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CC7388E.16431.633E085@localhost> On 26 Oct 2010 at 19:57, marty sukey wrote: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwsS7DT2C-w > > Above is a link to an in-car video of one of my autocross runs at the VTR > national convention at Jekyll Island Nice! Pretty tight suspension you have in that thing, innit? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From rbtr3a at cox.net Tue Oct 26 18:30:27 2010 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 00:30:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] VTR Autocross in-car video In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: that is so Kool, its the first time ive got to see the course. GREAT JOB MARTY > From: trmarty at hotmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 19:57:35 -0400 > Subject: [TR] VTR Autocross in-car video > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwsS7DT2C-w > > > > Above is a link to an in-car video of one of my autocross runs at the VTR > national convention at Jekyll Island > > Marty > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rbtr3a at cox.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 26 18:31:54 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 20:31:54 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR Autocross in-car video Message-ID: <7f6f2.789e269b.39f8ccfa@cs.com> In a message dated 10/26/2010 6:57:42 PM Central Daylight Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwsS7DT2C-w > > > > Above is a link to an in-car video of one of my autocross runs at the VTR > national convention at Jekyll Island > That's the way it looked for me. Only slower. ;-) Dave From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Oct 27 09:09:39 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 09:09:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Questions In-Reply-To: <512130.61973.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <512130.61973.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <95797898-0FBF-4802-A63A-1BC0A1162AE5@comcast.net> The o-ring you need is 2-114. Make sure it is viton which is resistant to gas/oil/etc. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Oct 15, 2010, at 9:59 PM, William Brewer wrote: > I went to move my TR6 tonight so I can get the TR3 in the shop > instead (there may be a pattern forming here...). I drove the 6 > around the block and it was pouring fuel out of the rear carburetor > on the bottom through a round disk thing that is rattling around. I > am not real familiar with the TR6 yet and never touched a ZS carb. > What are those disk things? Why does fuel pour out of one? Is there > a quick fix until I can rebuild the carbs? The car sat for about 20 > years and I am bringing it back to life. > I just need to move the car about 300 feet uphill and would > rather not be on fire while doing it. > TIA > > Bill in Tehachapi > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Oct 27 11:56:31 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 10:56:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Questions In-Reply-To: <95797898-0FBF-4802-A63A-1BC0A1162AE5@comcast.net> References: <512130.61973.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <95797898-0FBF-4802-A63A-1BC0A1162AE5@comcast.net> Message-ID: On 10/27/10, Bud Rolofson wrote: > The o-ring you need is 2-114. Make sure it is viton which is > resistant to gas/oil/etc. Would an o-ring of Nitrile/Buna-N also suit? I mention that as I have found a nice assortment of those at my neighborhood Ace Hardware. Geo From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Oct 27 12:41:19 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 12:41:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Questions In-Reply-To: References: <512130.61973.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <95797898-0FBF-4802-A63A-1BC0A1162AE5@comcast.net> Message-ID: I think it would as Buna-N is petro resistant also, but I'm no chemist. But I haven't used those type of o-rings. I know viton has worked well on the plugs and also for the carb dampers for many years in my TR6. An alternative is to find some old ZS carbs that have a "solid" fuel chamber bottom that has no plug holes or jet holes. I think I got some off of a couple of old MG ZS carbs but I had to look through a big pile of carbs at Atlanta Imported Car Parts to find just two of them. One of these days I'll install them when I'm doing my biannual cleaning of the fuel chambers. MG parts on my TR6...god forbid. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Oct 27, 2010, at 11:56 AM, Geo Hahn wrote: > On 10/27/10, Bud Rolofson wrote: >> The o-ring you need is 2-114. Make sure it is viton which is >> resistant to gas/oil/etc. > > Would an o-ring of Nitrile/Buna-N also suit? > > I mention that as I have found a nice assortment of those at my > neighborhood Ace Hardware. > > Geo > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From ikorey at comcast.net Wed Oct 27 12:56:46 2010 From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 13:56:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Questions In-Reply-To: References: <512130.61973.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <95797898-0FBF-4802-A63A-1BC0A1162AE5@comcast.net> Message-ID: On Wed, Oct 27, 2010 at 1:41 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote: An alternative is to find some old ZS carbs that have a "solid" fuel > chamber bottom that has no plug holes or jet holes. I think I got some off > of a couple of old MG ZS carbs but I had to look through a big pile of > carbs at Atlanta Imported Car Parts to find just two of them. One of these > days I'll install them when I'm doing my biannual cleaning of the fuel > chambers. MG parts on my TR6...god forbid. > Joe Curto sold me a pair of those float chamber bottoms, which I ordered to eliminate the plug and o-ring. They work great, but are configured slightly differently, and require all short screws instead of a mix of long and short. NFI. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 27 13:01:30 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 15:01:30 EDT Subject: [TR] ZS Carb Questions Message-ID: In a message dated 10/27/2010 1:43:22 PM Central Daylight Time, levilevi at comcast.net writes: > An alternative is to find some old ZS carbs that have a "solid" fuel > chamber bottom that has no plug holes or jet holes. I think I got > some off of a couple of old MG ZS carbs but I had to look through a > big pile of carbs at Atlanta Imported Car Parts to find just two of > them. One of these days I'll install them when I'm doing my biannual > cleaning of the fuel chambers. MG parts on my TR6...god forbid. > Think of it as Triumph parts on an MG. Actually, the later TR7's and 8's also have the solid float bowls. Probably the latest Spitfires, too. Dave From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed Oct 27 14:38:49 2010 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 15:38:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio Message-ID: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E8704369FCC72@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> If you do not have a variable DC power supply, I wonder if it would work to add D-cell batteries (1.5 V) in series, gradually, to step up 3 to 4.5, to 6 V etc? In series would be like they are stacked in a flashlight handle, nose to tail, or rather pos to neg. Brian From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 27 16:21:55 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 15:21:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E8704369FCC72@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> References: <4B742A991DF34A4F805788F190660E8704369FCC72@019D-NAMSG-05.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> Message-ID: <0a2301cb7625$61020160$23060420$@rr.com> > I wonder if it would > work to > add D-cell batteries (1.5 V) in series, Should work fine. Duct tape makes a suitable temporary battery holder Or, you could use some sort of resistance to drop the voltage from your battery. I don't know offhand how much current those radios draw at low voltage, but I would guess that an incandescent 12v test light would do as a starting point. For the sake of completeness, I'll point out that the best way to do this is to remove the suspect capacitor from the circuit, and apply its rated voltage through a high resistance (like 50,000 ohms). Such resistors are readily available from Radio Shack, etc. but removing the capacitor from the circuit without damaging anything can be tricky. Another alternative, of course, is to just replace it. -- Randall From rbtr3a at cox.net Wed Oct 27 19:17:30 2010 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 01:17:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] Jekyll Video Message-ID: Here is a video produced by the Jekyll Island Authority. http://vimeo.com/16224520 ronnie From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Oct 27 21:07:37 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 21:07:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] Jekyll Video In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ronnie, The Jekyll Island folks were nice to do the video. What a great convention you and all who helped you put on this year. I don't know how this great group of people pulled off not only a great North American Triumph Challenge and VTR convention but also with perfect and I mean absolutely perfect weather and with no bugs (or hardly any). There were lots who helped at the cost of doing events themselves and many who filled in at the last moment. Having Bob Tullius there and the Group 44 cars was really cool and the high quality tech sessions were hard to miss but the fun we had doing the driving events made up for that. I still want to know Tony Vigliotti's tips on strengthening my TR6 frame as that tech session was during the TSD rally. Marty Sukey and Jack McGahey deserve mention not only for the beer swap and the TSD rally they organized, but for handling a difficult situation with calm when Cecil Wise rolled his Vitesse at the autocross. I've never seen anything quite that scary in person at a VTR event and it was a true miracle that Cecil came out without a scratch. Seeing that car upside down and flattened out on the ground with the windshield folded up was surreal knowing that Cecil was in there. The paramedics that were at the event must have gotten to the car in less than 10 seconds. And the corner people in work stations 3 and 4 nearby were there instantly. They should also be commended for their quick actions. I was at work station 5 and by the time I ran to the car there were already people surrounding the car and they had Cecil out. I was truly proud of the Triumph folks watching them immediately do what was necessary such as rolling the car back on its wheels to keep gas from leaking and removing the battery cable. Once Cecil and his wife Mia were known to be OK (given the circumstances) the Vitesse was moved to the pits, we cleaned up glass and parts and the autocross continued after a minimal delay and we finished long before the airport opened back up. Quite a testimony to the organization and preparedness by Marty, Jack, and others who helped. This was one of the most fun VTRs I've been to and I just want to thank all who contributed. I hope y'all join us in Breckenridge, Colorado for NATC XXXIV and VTR 2011 on August 17-21 and that we can meet the high standards set at Jekyll Island. I put on about 4546 miles and averaged 26.3 mpg to Jekyll Island and back so I'm going to miss the driving part of the VTR road trip experience next year as the driving serves as meditation time and is cheaper than the therapy everyone says I should be getting for this car habit I have. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Oct 27, 2010, at 7:17 PM, ronnie babbitt wrote: > Here is a video produced by the Jekyll Island Authority. > > > http://vimeo.com/16224520 > > > > ronnie > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From keithstewart at execulink.com Wed Oct 27 21:21:01 2010 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 23:21:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2313E492-53AC-4E4B-87B1-2BCE97FF7DB3@execulink.com> On 2010-10-27, at 2:00 PM, "John Finlayson" wrote: > > > There is a picture of the 7btrx (#68) at this website > http://www.bendixradiofoundation.com/documents/Artifact_Auto.pdf > It's a 1967 model radio so is not original for my '62 TR4. That radio, and all of the others in the document, do not resemble the original Triumph radio in my 62 TR4. Mine is AM only. It is a two part radio with the main case behind the face plate on the dash support. The dial and the two knobs are on a fixture that slides over the shafts on the front side of the dash support. The knobs are rounded. There are no push buttons for tuning. If needed, I would be happy to take a photo of the front unit and send it to whoever needs it. Just let me know. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 27 21:42:58 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 20:42:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: <2313E492-53AC-4E4B-87B1-2BCE97FF7DB3@execulink.com> References: <2313E492-53AC-4E4B-87B1-2BCE97FF7DB3@execulink.com> Message-ID: <031801cb7652$36c950b0$0301a8c0@randall> > That radio, and all of the others in the document, do not resemble the > original Triumph radio in my 62 TR4. Mine is AM only. Is that a model R2BT4 ? There were actually quite a few different radios used, especially for cars delivered to North America (where all radios were dealer-installed). I have no real need, but would like a copy of the photo if you take one. Randall From McGaheyRx at aol.com Wed Oct 27 23:31:42 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 01:31:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Jekyll Video Message-ID: <109f3a.104c690f.39fa64be@aol.com> In a message dated 10/27/2010 11:08:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, levilevi at comcast.net writes: I was truly proud of the Triumph folks watching them immediately do what was necessary Well said, Bud. I want to add kudos for Duncan Wood and all the other people who arranged to get Cecil and Mia, and the car, and the trailer they had towed behind the car ALL THE WAY BACK to Kansas. I'm pretty sure all this was arranged before Cecil and Mia had a chance to worry about it and a lot more people wanted to help than were needed. This is what Triumph people do for each other and its why we say we came for the cars, but we come back for the people. Cheers, Jack Mc From john_finlayson at telus.net Wed Oct 27 23:32:19 2010 From: john_finlayson at telus.net (John Finlayson) Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 22:32:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: <2313E492-53AC-4E4B-87B1-2BCE97FF7DB3@execulink.com> References: <2313E492-53AC-4E4B-87B1-2BCE97FF7DB3@execulink.com> Message-ID: <4710A95E288045DCA60C6F1CA1D772BB@JohnPC> I'd like to see a photo of it if you can send one. I have read similar descriptions but have not seen any photos of your model. The 7BTRX, as I said in my previous post, is not original for my '62 TR4. The "7" in the model number actually designates it as a 1967 model radio, so it was produced well after the end of the TR4 run. I don't know what models Triumph may have installed it in, possibly the TR4A. I do not believe many Triumphs shipped to North America came with factory installed radios, damage and theft in transit being my understanding of the main reasons. I believe most were installed after arrival in North America. That is my experience from when the cars were new. John Finlayson '62 TR4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Stewart" To: Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 8:21 PM Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio > On 2010-10-27, at 2:00 PM, "John Finlayson" > wrote: >> >> >> There is a picture of the 7btrx (#68) at this website >> http://www.bendixradiofoundation.com/documents/Artifact_Auto.pdf >> It's a 1967 model radio so is not original for my '62 TR4. > > That radio, and all of the others in the document, do not resemble the > original Triumph radio in my 62 TR4. Mine is AM only. It is a two part > radio > with the main case behind the face plate on the dash support. The dial and > the > two knobs are on a fixture that slides over the shafts on the front side > of > the dash support. The knobs are rounded. There are no push buttons for > tuning. > If needed, I would be happy to take a photo of the front unit and send it > to > whoever needs it. Just let me know. > > Keith R. Stewart > 75 Camden Road > London, Ontario > N5X 2K2 > Home: (519) 660-1916 > E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john_finlayson at telus.net From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Oct 28 07:57:09 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 08:57:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio References: <2313E492-53AC-4E4B-87B1-2BCE97FF7DB3@execulink.com> <4710A95E288045DCA60C6F1CA1D772BB@JohnPC> Message-ID: Although the BBC offered three of their services on FM (the Light Program, the Home Service and the Third Program) in the late 50s and 60s, it was not popular and most consumers listened on medium or long wavebands (AM here). Thus, most radios fitted to English cars in the 60s were equipped with two AM bands, MW and LW. I don't think FM radios really became popular until the early 70s. As far as I know, nobody provides broadcast service on the LW band (153 - 279 kHz) in the US, so it would not have made any sense to ship British radios to the US. Hence, local installation of radios. Maybe JonMac can confirm my theory. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Finlayson" To: "Keith Stewart" ; Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 12:32 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio > I'd like to see a photo of it if you can send one. I have read similar > descriptions but have not seen any photos of your model. The 7BTRX, as I > said in my previous post, is not original for my '62 TR4. The "7" in the > model number actually designates it as a 1967 model radio, so it was > produced well after the end of the TR4 run. I don't know what models > Triumph may have installed it in, possibly the TR4A. I do not believe many > Triumphs shipped to North America came with factory installed radios, > damage and theft in transit being my understanding of the main reasons. I > believe most were installed after arrival in North America. That is my > experience from when the cars were new. > > John Finlayson > '62 TR4 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Keith Stewart" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 8:21 PM > Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio > > >> On 2010-10-27, at 2:00 PM, "John Finlayson" >> wrote: >>> >>> >>> There is a picture of the 7btrx (#68) at this website >>> http://www.bendixradiofoundation.com/documents/Artifact_Auto.pdf >>> It's a 1967 model radio so is not original for my '62 TR4. >> >> That radio, and all of the others in the document, do not resemble the >> original Triumph radio in my 62 TR4. Mine is AM only. It is a two part >> radio >> with the main case behind the face plate on the dash support. The dial >> and the >> two knobs are on a fixture that slides over the shafts on the front side >> of >> the dash support. The knobs are rounded. There are no push buttons for >> tuning. >> If needed, I would be happy to take a photo of the front unit and send it >> to >> whoever needs it. Just let me know. >> >> Keith R. Stewart >> 75 Camden Road >> London, Ontario >> N5X 2K2 >> Home: (519) 660-1916 >> E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Manage your account: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john_finlayson at telus.net > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com From rbtr3a at cox.net Thu Oct 28 09:54:45 2010 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 15:54:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda Message-ID: If i were to do it again, here are a couple of things i would consider doing different. This year we moved the car show from being the last event, in an effort to allow us to have additional time to tabulate and enter the winners into our Power Point presentation. We offered the autocross on the last day just prior to the banquet, for the results are provided immediately after the autocross is complete. The computer figures the results. What I would now consider would be to move the car show and the autocross even earlier in the event allowing even more time to prepare the PP presentation. Also there were many who would not participate in some of the non competitive events like the restaurant run, the ice cream run, because they did not want to get there cars dirty driving them on these events. If the car show was one of the first events, maybe the second day, people could clean there cars early and once. Having the car show out of the way they would now feel more relaxed about participating in the other events. Id move the tech session and the Group Photo to the later days. ronnie From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 28 11:16:32 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 17:16:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: <1119856654.148512.1288286078309.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <237845445.148628.1288286192014.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Something to consider here: One of the neat things about the VTR is that we have not (in my limited experience, anyway) allowed ultra-trailer-queen cars into the concour by requiring that the car be used in a driving event. This de facto requires that driving events be held before the concour. The only other marque club with which I have experience is Lotus LTD. They have a different take on things for the Lotus Owners Gathering. I'm not advocating for anything, I'm just tossing this out as background data. On Friday they have registration, car washing, the opening of the arts/crafts/photo/writing contests and the welcome party. On Saturday, they form up for a panoramic photo (by Doug Chadwick, who ISTR told me at LOG that he was headed down to shoot the VTR!). Doug shoots one shot with all the folks standing by their cars. Then all the folks are dismissed to go to lunch. Doug shoots a second shot with no people. Then the folks in the judged concour have to come back to be by their cars for the judges. The rest of us can have lunch and goof off until the time for the popular choice ballot box to be closed. Notice that we did not move our cars to re-form for the concour. Saturday night banquet with speaker. On Sunday they have the autocross and some other driving events. Sunday night buffet with a different speaker. On Monday there is an optional Track Day. No formal evening activities. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "ronnie babbitt" > To: "triumphs2 TRlist" > Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 10:54:45 AM > Subject: [TR] Convention agenda > > If i were to do it again, here are a couple of things i would consider > doing > different. This year we moved the car show from being the last event, > in an > effort to allow us to have additional time to tabulate and enter the > winners > into our Power Point presentation. We offered the autocross on the > last day > just prior to the banquet, for the results are provided immediately > after the > autocross is complete. The computer figures the results. > > What I would now consider would be to move the car show and the > autocross even > earlier in the event allowing even more time to prepare the PP > presentation. > Also there were many who would not participate in some of the non > competitive > events like the restaurant run, the ice cream run, because they did > not want > to get there cars dirty driving them on these events. If the car show > was one > of the first events, maybe the second day, people could clean there > cars early > and once. Having the car show out of the way they would now feel more > relaxed > about participating in the other events. Id move the tech session and > the > Group Photo to the later days. > > ronnie From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 28 11:43:21 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 10:43:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: <237845445.148628.1288286192014.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1119856654.148512.1288286078309.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <237845445.148628.1288286192014.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0ad701cb76c7$9e362870$daa27950$@rr.com> > This de facto requires that driving events be held > before the concour. I disagree. The rule is that no trophy can be awarded if the car does not participate in a driving event, so the driving events need only be held before the awards are announced. AFAIK, that rule is mostly "honor system" anyway. I could be wrong, but my impression is that only rarely does anyone actually cross check which cars have been in a driving event. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 28 12:04:14 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 14:04:14 EDT Subject: [TR] Convention agenda Message-ID: In a message dated 10/28/2010 12:16:44 PM Central Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > On Saturday, they form up for a panoramic photo (by Doug Chadwick, who > ISTR told me at LOG that he was headed down to shoot the VTR!). Doug shoots > one shot with all the folks standing by their cars. Then all the folks are > dismissed to go to lunch. Doug shoots a second shot with no people. Then > the folks in the judged concour have to come back to be by their cars for > the judges. The rest of us can have lunch and goof off until the time for > the popular choice ballot box to be closed. Notice that we did not move > our cars to re-form for the concour. Saturday night banquet with speaker. > That would eliminate the biggest bottleneck of our event: the move from the panaroamic shoot to the show field. On the other hand it requires a compromise between a good photo local and a cozy, comfortable show venue. You need a clear field for the photoshoot and that usually means full sun for the car show. Also, the car arrangement is a compromise, too. There are cases where this would work well. But not in all cases. An alternate schedule I would suggest is to hold the photo shoot after the show/judging. The photographer and/or the club photshoot organizer can walk the field and chose what cars he wants up front, grouped together, etc., and then designate who arrives at the photoshoot field at what time. There could be a lunch break in between, too. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 28 12:13:31 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 14:13:31 EDT Subject: [TR] Convention agenda Message-ID: In a message dated 10/28/2010 12:43:30 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > >This de facto requires that driving events be held > >before the concour. > > I disagree. The rule is that no trophy can be awarded if the car does not > participate in a driving event, so the driving events need only be held > before the awards are announced. I think he meant that all cars on the field have been driven at least a little bit and not "just rolled off the enclosed trailer" so the contest is a bit more fair in that respect. On the other hand, the ice cream run and the funkahna count as moving events so the requirements amount to little more than driving it from the parking lot to the show field. But you are right. A car can score very high at the show and yet be passed over for awards if it does not participate in a "driving" event. > > AFAIK, that rule is mostly "honor system" anyway. I could be wrong, but > my > impression is that only rarely does anyone actually cross check which cars > have been in a driving event. Some checking is done but if the driver says he drove it we take him at his word. Besides, there is talk about doing away with that for the VTR. I can't say I am in agreement with that. Dave From deruiterville at hotmail.com Thu Oct 28 12:14:24 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 13:14:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ronnie- Jekyll Island was my 1st national in a long time (88 Dallas). As to the daily schedule, I wouldnt change a thing - you guys did a great job. I like the shined up car show later in the week, gives me a chance to look at cars in the parking lot first then enjoy them again later. I agree with Dave Massey's comments on the photo shoot vs show - maybe just a minor schedule adjustment between the events to avoid the logjam. I was very surprised how many pariticipants choice entries there were relative to concours. Is it always this way? Kind of disturbed me, next time I'm going for judging even though my TR4 is not concours material at this time. Randy DeRuiter 64 TR4 59 TR3A ps. Great job on that auction too, I grabbed some bargains. From dave at ranteer.com Thu Oct 28 12:48:11 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 13:48:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re: Convention agenda In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <742B501400B34840BE7043B85AB2DE5C@ranteer.local> ?fwiw I am totally against eliminating that rule. I am not a fan of garage sculpture > Some checking is done but if the driver says he drove it we take him at > his > word. Besides, there is talk about doing away with that for the VTR. I > can't say I am in agreement with that. From dctr6 at optonline.net Thu Oct 28 13:00:53 2010 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 15:00:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda Message-ID: <000601cb76d2$755733d0$60059b70$@net> Randall wrote: References: <000601cb76d2$755733d0$60059b70$@net> Message-ID: <005b01cb76df$66b51880$341f4980$@net> On Thursday, October 28, 2010 Dennis wrote: I also remember cars being rolled out of trailers for the hotel parking lot Gymkhana and then returned to the safety of their trailer for 2 days until the car show. : - ( ____ Doesn't sound like much fun.....whatever floats your boat, I guess. Joe From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Oct 28 14:36:06 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 13:36:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: References: <2313E492-53AC-4E4B-87B1-2BCE97FF7DB3@execulink.com> <4710A95E288045DCA60C6F1CA1D772BB@JohnPC> Message-ID: I suspect another reason radios were dealer-installed options is that they made a pretty good profit on the sale of these (that and 'undercoating'). From djsforza at gmail.com Thu Oct 28 14:47:20 2010 From: djsforza at gmail.com (Don Sforza) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 20:47:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda Message-ID: I attended a national Alfa Romeo show in Manchester NH several years ago. There was NO driving event requirement, although many were offered (gymkahna, driving tours, autocross and track time a the speedway). Sadly, I couldn't stay for the concours on the last day, and missed all the nice cars...they didn't show until "show day", and I was told most rolled (not started) off their trailers onto the show field. I believe a driving event should be mandatory. If only to see the cars under their own power... How about a s-l-o-w crawl around the autocross circuit? And to give the casual attendee an opportunity enjoy the whole event. BTW, with my Spider Veloce not running at the time, I took my TR6 to that show. This past July is 22 years I've owned that car... And the ALFA is history. Simplicity endures. ------Original Message------ From: Joe Laurito Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: 'Dennis Culligan' To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: tr3driver at ca.rr.com Subject: Re: [TR] Convention agenda Sent: Oct 28, 2010 4:33 PM On Thursday, October 28, 2010 Dennis wrote: I also remember cars being rolled out of trailers for the hotel parking lot Gymkhana and then returned to the safety of their trailer for 2 days until the car show. : - ( ____ Doesn't sound like much fun.....whatever floats your boat, I guess. Joe _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/djsforza at gmail.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 28 16:10:19 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 18:10:19 EDT Subject: [TR] Convention agenda Message-ID: <1080a2.38dbefe.39fb4ecb@cs.com> In a message dated 10/28/2010 3:33:59 PM Central Daylight Time, trglory at verizon.net writes: > I also remember cars being rolled out of trailers for the hotel parking > lot > Gymkhana and then > > returned to the safety of their trailer for 2 days until the car show. : > - > In 2002, at Redwing, MN, there were two (or more) stags. One came in on a trailer and the other was driven 300+ miles to the event. One evening the owner of the trailerd car was seen uncoupling the trailer from the tow vehicle. When asked what was wrong the response was "Nothing, we're just going out to dinner." When asked "Why not take the Stag?" he responded "We never drive it anywhere." Imagine his disappointment when the driven Stag scored higher (first in class) than the trailered car. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 28 16:41:38 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 15:41:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: <1080a2.38dbefe.39fb4ecb@cs.com> References: <1080a2.38dbefe.39fb4ecb@cs.com> Message-ID: <003601cb76f1$4913c760$db3b5620$@rr.com> > Imagine his disappointment when the driven Stag scored higher (first in > class) than the trailered car. Someone correct me if I'm wrong (again), but aren't we only talking a few points at most for dust and an occasional paint chip? I've never participated in the Concours (hence the ignorant question) but I thought the primary point was "correctness", not how well the car is detailed. -- Randall From salty1249y at gmail.com Thu Oct 28 17:04:08 2010 From: salty1249y at gmail.com (Michael Burdick) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 19:04:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: <003601cb76f1$4913c760$db3b5620$@rr.com> References: <1080a2.38dbefe.39fb4ecb@cs.com> <003601cb76f1$4913c760$db3b5620$@rr.com> Message-ID: I think that's what the rules say, but: I got 20-some points deducted at Jekyll on the engine bay section of the judging form for what I can only assume was because of road grime. I say "can only assume" because everything in there is original to the car, just showing 55,000 miles and 38 years of wear and tear.* It seems to me that the focus in concours judging has shifted from preservation of original cars, to recreation of original cars. A judge told me the standard that they were comparing the entrants to was a car sitting on the dealer's floor back in the day - i.e. undriven and clean as a whistle. I guess the clean as a whistle part is doable with a car that is regularly driven (just takes elbow grease), but worn original parts, even hoses or trim parts (like a top), don't pass muster, so unused NOS or reproduction parts are judged higher. The irony to me was that they didn't seem to give much weight to the accuracy of reproduction parts. If a part is inaccurate is all that is available now, it is ok to use. At least that's the gist of some of the discussion I heard during the judging. I'm not griping, these are just my reflections after my first foray into concours - up till now, I've been doing Participants' Choice (3 past VTRs). Not sure what I'll do at the next one I attend... Mike Burdick Durham, NC * I readily admit that my engine bay was not detailed. On Thu, Oct 28, 2010 at 6:41 PM, Randall wrote: > > Someone correct me if I'm wrong (again), but aren't we only talking a few > points at most for dust and an occasional paint chip? > > I've never participated in the Concours (hence the ignorant question) but I > thought the primary point was "correctness", not how well the car is > detailed. > > -- Randall From thebujas at comcast.net Thu Oct 28 17:11:30 2010 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 18:11:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Randall wrote: > AFAIK, that rule is mostly "honor system" anyway. I > could be wrong, but my impression is that only rarely > does anyone actually cross check which cars have been > in a driving event. I helped run the 1995 and 2005 conventions in Rockford, IL. In both cases, we cleared the hotel parking lot by having the panoramic photo off-site on the morning of the car show. No cars were allowed onto the show field lots unless you had a driving event participation sticker on your Triumph's registration marker. A second check against the event participation logs was made when the Participants' Choice and Concours Awards were matched up with the winning car owner's name(s). Everyone knew the rules and we never had any issues with people trying to beat the system. The "drivers" took part in as many events as they could, while the "shiners" did their run in the parking lot funkhana at slow speed and then parked their car back in the trailer until show day. Tim Buja - Rockford, IL From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Oct 28 18:30:49 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 19:30:49 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio Message-ID: <1935568513.607602.1288312249205.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Oct 28 18:58:59 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 20:58:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: <20101028204716.DCC5818787C@autox.team.net> References: <20101028204716.DCC5818787C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CD451B9ADEBADA-151C-6310@webmail-m077.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Don Sforza I believe a driving event should be mandatory. If only to see the cars under their own power... How about a s-l-o-w crawl around the autocross circuit? And to give the casual attendee an opportunity enjoy the whole event. ==AM== Hear, hear, Don! Over the years, I've seen (or in a few instances, seen photos or video of) Heralds, Vitesses, Mayflowers, a Standard Vanguard Sportsman, Southern Crosses, 10 sedans -- even a genuine TRS Le Mans car -- run autocross or at least funkhana. And I haven't seen him in years, but I remember one person from the East Coast who would drive the "heck" out of his car to go to a convention, drive the "heck" out of it in several driving events...and then spend a fair portion of the rest of his time there cleaning the car back to near perfection and winning trophies for show as well as "go"! I admit that I didn't do many driving events in Red Wing in '02. Part of that might have been simply because I'd driven 1225 miles to get there in the then-newly acquired '62 Herald. ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 28 19:21:55 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 01:21:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: <8CD451B9ADEBADA-151C-6310@webmail-m077.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <2071997974.178007.1288315315968.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > From: "Andrew Mace" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 7:58:59 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Convention agenda > I admit that I didn't do many driving events in Red Wing in '02. Part > of that might have been simply because I'd driven 1225 miles to get > there in the then-newly acquired '62 Herald. ;-) And still found time to attend that wedding dinner! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Oct 28 20:23:17 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 22:23:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR light guy Message-ID: Anybody have the contact info for the guy that was selling the replacement tail light bulb at the VTR convention? When I was in the room he was not and the opposite also. There was a business card in my goodie bag but I cannot find it. Marty From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 28 20:25:32 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 02:25:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: <1543567223.181077.1288319075762.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1895387002.181126.1288319132009.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> From: Dave1massey at cs.com > In 2002, at Redwing, MN, there were two (or more) stags. B One came in > on a > trailer and the other was driven 300+ miles to the event. B One evening > the > owner of the trailered car was seen uncoupling the trailer from the tow > vehicle. B When asked what was wrong the response was "Nothing, we're > just going > out to dinner." B When asked "Why not take the Stag?" he responded "We > never > drive it anywhere." uncle jack rode in the trailer home to Minnesota from Illinois but he has not been in it since. The Stag has taken us to Thunder Bay Ontario for The Rendezvous. I drove it to Osceola Wisconsin for Wheels & Wings. It's been on several other jaunts around Minnesota and Wisconsin. When we go to Breckenridge, the Stag will be in the trailer again. But when we get there, it will be out for the duration unless hail is threatening. On the San Luis Obispo VR trip last year, we were towing, but drove the TR4 nearly 700 miles. On our recent trip to Gettysburg for the Lotus Owners gathering, most of the miles on the Lotus were track or autocross miles. Touring was done in the Suburban. If I were alone, it would not have happened that way, but Sue can't easily get out of the Lotus so she seldom gets in it. Not a problem with uncle jack: She loves both riding in and driving the Stag. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Oct 28 20:31:11 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 02:31:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] VTR light guy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB1083@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> LiteZupp Industries, LLC Attn: Chris Reyher 1823 Rolling Ridge Drive Grapevine,TX 76051 www.litezupp.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 10:23 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] VTR light guy Anybody have the contact info for the guy that was selling the replacement tail light bulb at the VTR convention? When I was in the room he was not and the opposite also. There was a business card in my goodie bag but I cannot find it. Marty From spamiam at comcast.net Thu Oct 28 20:46:11 2010 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 22:46:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR judging (was Re: Convention agenda) Message-ID: Mike, I couldn't agree with you more. The VTR judging is very different from the AACA rules AFAIK. AACA scores an original part very highly, and obviously repro parts are scored rather low. Patina is OK, even great!. Grime, not so OK. I had a particular bee in my bonnet about judging of my interior on my 4A. It is all original. That means that there are a couple of crazes in the "varnish" of the walnut dashboard. The leather seats have some surface cracking. The carpets are not faded or threabare. Repro seats look better, but they ALL have the piping in the wrong position and the foams have the wrong shape (too square instead of rounded). I saw other cars with pretty but inaccurate repros get higher points than me (in '07). Whereas in '04, the judges did not give me downgraded points for some visible age, when they are clearly original parts. -Tony >Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 19:04:08 -0400 >From: Michael Burdick >Subject: Re: [TR] Convention agenda >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Message-ID: > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >I think that's what the rules say, but: I got 20-some points deducted at >Jekyll on the engine bay section of the judging form for what I can only >assume was because of road grime. I say "can only assume" because >everything in there is original to the car, just showing 55,000 miles and 38 >years of wear and tear.* It seems to me that the focus in concours judging >has shifted from preservation of original cars, to recreation of original >cars. A judge told me the standard that they were comparing the entrants to >was a car sitting on the dealer's floor back in the day - i.e. undriven and >clean as a whistle. I guess the clean as a whistle part is doable with a >car that is regularly driven (just takes elbow grease), but worn original >parts, even hoses or trim parts (like a top), don't pass muster, so unused >NOS or reproduction parts are judged higher. The irony to me was that they >didn't seem to give much weight to the accuracy of reproduction parts. If a >part is inaccurate is all that is available now, it is ok to use. At least >that's the gist of some of the discussion I heard during the judging. > >I'm not griping, these are just my reflections after my first foray into >concours - up till now, I've been doing Participants' Choice (3 past VTRs). > Not sure what I'll do at the next one I attend... > >Mike Burdick >Durham, NC From mark at bradakis.com Thu Oct 28 21:53:32 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 21:53:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio In-Reply-To: <1935568513.607602.1288312249205.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> References: <1935568513.607602.1288312249205.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> Message-ID: <4CCA453C.4020801@bradakis.com> frede.thomas2 wrote: > > > Sometime in the near future I plan to redo the filter that all Team.Net email goes through before getting sent out. Maybe then even Fred will be able to send a message! mjb. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 28 22:49:37 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 21:49:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph TR4 radio In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <049201cb7724$b1223c50$0301a8c0@randall> > This is the radio in my 62 (I've had the car since 67). If anyone > wants to put it on the web so others can see it, that's fine. I've put Allen's photo up at http://tinyurl.com/359h66n Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 29 05:31:29 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 07:31:29 EDT Subject: [TR] Convention agenda Message-ID: <120020.2bd4bb37.39fc0a91@cs.com> In a message dated 10/28/2010 5:41:45 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Someone correct me if I'm wrong (again), but aren't we only talking a few > points at most for dust and an occasional paint chip? > > I've never participated in the Concours (hence the ignorant question) but > I > thought the primary point was "correctness", not how well the car is > detailed. > > Indeed we are. And concours rules state that any chips, bugs, well, anything that occurs after leaving home is to be overlooked so in effect driving the car in VTR driving events, even driving to the event should have no effect on the concours score. The purpose of these rules is to encourage folks to drive them. And some folks do and still score very high in concours. But anal retentiveness is anal retentiveness. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 29 05:53:12 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 07:53:12 EDT Subject: [TR] Convention agenda Message-ID: <120c94.112b10a3.39fc0fa8@cs.com> In a message dated 10/28/2010 6:05:49 PM Central Daylight Time, salty1249y at gmail.com writes: > I think that's what the rules say, but: I got 20-some points deducted at > Jekyll on the engine bay section of the judging form for what I can only > assume was because of road grime. I say "can only assume" because > everything in there is original to the car, just showing 55,000 miles and > 38 > years of wear and tear.* It seems to me that the focus in concours > judging > has shifted from preservation of original cars, to recreation of original > cars. A judge told me the standard that they were comparing the entrants > to > was a car sitting on the dealer's floor back in the day - i.e. undriven > and > clean as a whistle. I guess the clean as a whistle part is doable with a > car that is regularly driven (just takes elbow grease), but worn original > parts, even hoses or trim parts (like a top), don't pass muster, so unused > NOS or reproduction parts are judged higher. The irony to me was that > they > didn't seem to give much weight to the accuracy of reproduction parts. If > a > part is inaccurate is all that is available now, it is ok to use. At > least > that's the gist of some of the discussion I heard during the judging. > > I'm not griping, these are just my reflections after my first foray into > concours - up till now, I've been doing Participants' Choice (3 past > VTRs). > Not sure what I'll do at the next one I attend... > In talking to Darrell, VTR is quite aware of this effect and there is talk of promoting a "Survivor's" class for unrestored cars. There are a few good examples of unrestored cars out there and it is a shame to take one apart for a restoration. A local club member bought a very clean TR2 in original condition only to do just that. We introduced the new modified classes five years ago and with a little massaging here and there it has gone pretty well. For the first time this year we had enough entries of a single model (TR3) to create a TR3 Modified Touring class*. Perhaps it is time to start pushing this forward. What would be the mission statement for this class? How about something like: "A class to recognize, promote and honor those cars that have survived with little or no major reconstruction since originally manufactured. Cleanliness and maintenance not withstanding, no deducts will be taken for normal wear and tear on original components but max deducts will be taken for replacements." This opens the discussion to a whole list of issues. What do you do about OEM replacements? What do you do about resprays in original color and original materials (if available)? What about tires? 40 year old tires have no business on the road. Original gas and oil (no don't get ridiculous)? Open for discussion. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 29 05:56:19 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 07:56:19 EDT Subject: [TR] Convention agenda Message-ID: <120e22.311be24f.39fc1063@cs.com> In a message dated 10/28/2010 7:59:17 PM Central Daylight Time, zoboherald at aol.com writes: > I admit that I didn't do many driving events in Red Wing in '02. Part > of that might have been simply because I'd driven 1225 miles to get > there in the then-newly acquired '62 Herald. ;-) > I remember the '98 convention when you autocrossed your Triumph bicycle. Nobody has topped that in my book. Dave From salty1249y at gmail.com Fri Oct 29 06:28:20 2010 From: salty1249y at gmail.com (Mike Burdick) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 08:28:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: <120c94.112b10a3.39fc0fa8@cs.com> References: <120c94.112b10a3.39fc0fa8@cs.com> Message-ID: <1288355300.4458.6.camel@crabman> Another issue that springs to mind is verification - in talking with the previous owner of my car (the second owner who bought the car when it was 6 years old and had it car for 20 years), I think that my car has much of the original trim, including the carpets and top. Wear seems consistent with that, but I can't document it, only cite his claims. Mike Burdick Durham, NC On Fri, 2010-10-29 at 07:53 -0400, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In talking to Darrell, VTR is quite aware of this effect and there is talk > of promoting a "Survivor's" class for unrestored cars. There are a few good > examples of unrestored cars out there and it is a shame to take one apart > for a restoration. A local club member bought a very clean TR2 in original > condition only to do just that. > > ... > This opens the discussion to a whole list of issues. What do you do about > OEM replacements? What do you do about resprays in original color and > original materials (if available)? What about tires? 40 year old tires have no > business on the road. Original gas and oil (no don't get ridiculous)? > > Open for discussion. From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 29 06:46:55 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 08:46:55 EDT Subject: [TR] Convention agenda Message-ID: <123047.44bbb317.39fc1c3f@cs.com> In a message dated 10/29/2010 7:28:30 AM Central Daylight Time, salty1249y at gmail.com writes: > Another issue that springs to mind is verification - in talking with the > previous owner of my car (the second owner who bought the car when it > was 6 years old and had it car for 20 years), I think that my car has > much of the original trim, including the carpets and top. Wear seems > consistent with that, but I can't document it, only cite his claims. > Good point. And what about warranty replacements. These would have been OEM and authentic but not factory installed. Thanks for the input. Dave From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Oct 29 09:53:58 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 11:53:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: <123047.44bbb317.39fc1c3f@cs.com> References: <123047.44bbb317.39fc1c3f@cs.com> Message-ID: <70F31BE2FD914880AD65B3440E8327A0@CarlPC> I for one would prefer the show to be as late in the week as possible. In fact, I was disappointed that it wasn't the last day this year as I couldn't make it until Thursday. That was my schedule issue and I understand the move to Wednesday. My thoughts: How about going to a scannable judging sheet. With today's technology the equipment/software is not expensive to be able to have a generic or event specific scan sheet created. To count 200 ballots would only take about 20-30 minutes. Concours Judging sheets - maybe a little longer. The concourse judging sheet could also be re-designed to have +/- point boxes on each line of the sheet. The software can calculate each line and the total for each area and ultimately the score for the car. This would require a little programming but is possible. One option: http://www.zip-scan.com/printscanscore.html Question: Any discussion/announcement of where NATC will be in 2012? Carl Disappointed I wasn't able to get the TR3 done in time for Jekyll Island. Thinking about Breckinridge but 2000 miles one-way is a bit daunting. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 8:46 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Convention agenda > In a message dated 10/29/2010 7:28:30 AM Central Daylight Time, > salty1249y at gmail.com writes: >> Another issue that springs to mind is verification - in talking with the >> previous owner of my car (the second owner who bought the car when it >> was 6 years old and had it car for 20 years), I think that my car has >> much of the original trim, including the carpets and top. Wear seems >> consistent with that, but I can't document it, only cite his claims. >> > > Good point. And what about warranty replacements. These would have been > OEM and authentic but not factory installed. > > Thanks for the input. > > Dave > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From dave at ranteer.com Fri Oct 29 06:35:50 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 07:35:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re: Convention agenda In-Reply-To: <120c94.112b10a3.39fc0fa8@cs.com> References: <120c94.112b10a3.39fc0fa8@cs.com> Message-ID: <2BF1DD089B4E47A1993CED962B550053@ranteer.local> ?doesn't aaca have an original class? we could see how they do it. > In talking to Darrell, VTR is quite aware of this effect and there is talk > of promoting a "Survivor's" class for unrestored cars. There are a few > good > examples of unrestored cars out there and it is a shame to take one apart > for a restoration. From dkspence at telus.net Fri Oct 29 10:50:55 2010 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 10:50:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Convention agend In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: What about just driving the cars and forget about the "mine is prettier/cleaner/more original than yours."??? On 29-Oct-10, at 10:13 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Convention agenda > > > Another issue that springs to mind is verification - in talking > with the > previous owner of my car (the second owner who bought the car when it > was 6 years old and had it car for 20 years), I think that my car has > much of the original trim, including the carpets and top. Wear seems > consistent with that, but I can't document it, only cite his claims. > > Mike Burdick > Durham, NC > > On Fri, 2010-10-29 at 07:53 -0400, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: >> In talking to Darrell, VTR is quite aware of this effect and there >> is talk >> of promoting a "Survivor's" class for unrestored cars. There are >> a few good >> examples of unrestored cars out there and it is a shame to take >> one apart >> for a restoration. A local club member bought a very clean TR2 in >> original >> condition only to do just that. >> >> ... >> This opens the discussion to a whole list of issues. What do you >> do about >> OEM replacements? What do you do about resprays in original color >> and >> original materials (if available)? What about tires? 40 year old >> tires have no >> business on the road. Original gas and oil (no don't get >> ridiculous)? >> >> Open for discussion. > > > > > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Date: October 29, 2010 6:46:55 AM MDT (CA) > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Convention agenda > > > In a message dated 10/29/2010 7:28:30 AM Central Daylight Time, > salty1249y at gmail.com writes: >> Another issue that springs to mind is verification - in talking >> with the >> previous owner of my car (the second owner who bought the car when it >> was 6 years old and had it car for 20 years), I think that my car has >> much of the original trim, including the carpets and top. Wear seems >> consistent with that, but I can't document it, only cite his claims. >> > > Good point. And what about warranty replacements. These would > have been > OEM and authentic but not factory installed. > > Thanks for the input. > > Dave From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Oct 29 11:14:04 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 10:14:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR light guy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Don't know of this was the guy, but he was at San Luis Obispo ... http://www.litezupp.com I bought a couple of 1157s for Casper and they work quite well ... not exactly cheap, but very well made ... >Anybody have the contact info for the guy that was selling the replacement >tail light bulb at the VTR convention? When I was in the room he was not and >the opposite also. There was a business card in my goodie bag but I cannot >find it. > >Marty -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From pethier at comcast.net Fri Oct 29 11:17:35 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 17:17:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Convention agenda and unconventional autocross rides In-Reply-To: <1743882243.206674.1288371722093.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <301722922.207602.1288372655493.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> from Dave1massey at cs.com > I remember the '98 convention when you autocrossed your Triumph > bicycle. > Nobody has topped that in my book. I didn't run the autocross on a bicycle at the '98 VTR convention. But I did ride a bicycle around redistributing loaner helmets. I didn't own a Triumph yet. I'd registered for the convention with my Europa (hey, it shares steering gear and wheels with Spitfires), but of course the water pump went out and I was too busy moving house to deal with it. I ran the autocross in John Solstad's TR6. Non-Triumph content: At the LOG the week previous to this year's VTR, nobody ran the autocross in a Lotus bicycle. But the cousin of one of the organizers brought her one-horsepower vehicle: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/5074210942 Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Oct 29 11:30:59 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 10:30:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: <1288355300.4458.6.camel@crabman> References: <120c94.112b10a3.39fc0fa8@cs.com> <1288355300.4458.6.camel@crabman> Message-ID: We have driven Rosey ... 1970 TR6, to five or six SCCA judged Concours each Year over the last 6 years, did the drive associated with the show and had several podium finishes, including 3 1st in class at the Ironstone Concours d'Elegance, garnered 389 points at San Luis Obispo, probably because she had a high torgue starter and spin on oil filter (judged, by Triumph guys who knew the difference). We have been "skunked" this year, and a Judge told us that while she was very clean and mostly original, she was beginning to show her age, along with some wear and tear. Compared to a car that had just finished full on restoration. No Matter ... we still enjoyed the shows, but there is SO much work involved in preparation that we have decided to forego the SCCA Judged shows for next year, and will only enter "show and shine" events, perhaps other Charity shows but only as a display only car. I must admit my 76 year old body is having problems doing all the work, so that is also a factor. Long story short ... these cars were made to be driven, not polished and set aside just to be looked at ... remember "When these cars are started, they do not just run ... they come Alive!" >Another issue that springs to mind is verification - in talking with the >previous owner of my car (the second owner who bought the car when it >was 6 years old and had it car for 20 years), I think that my car has >much of the original trim, including the carpets and top. Wear seems >consistent with that, but I can't document it, only cite his claims. > >Mike Burdick >Durham, NC -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" 1970 TR6 "Rosey" Wallace, CA From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 29 12:38:01 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 14:38:01 EDT Subject: [TR] Convention agenda and unconventional autocross rides Message-ID: <13bbc5.761758f.39fc6e89@cs.com> In a message dated 10/29/2010 12:17:36 PM Central Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > I didn't run the autocross on a bicycle at the '98 VTR convention. But I > did ride a bicycle around redistributing loaner helmets. Right. That was Andy Mace. My bad. Still great form, tho. Dave From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Oct 29 13:24:58 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 19:24:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] Jekyll Video In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB1E25@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Debbie shot some video of the cars leaving the panoramic photo shoot and heading to the show field. http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/VTR2010/?action=view¤t =VTR-2010-Triumphs.mp4 And also some video of the Le Mans start competition http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/VTR2010/?action=view¤t =VTR-2010-LeMans.mp4 I apologize for omitting the winning Spit from the video but Debbie's camera is semi brain dead when it records video and that particular segment is all out of focus. We did get Bud's excellent run though which I think earned him second place, Go Bud !. We had a great time and I picked up a ton of info to help with my recent TR3A purchase and even came home with a TR3 door bought at the auction. Congrats to the organizers, thanks to all of the sponsors and a special thanks to the Classic Motorsports guys for the hospitality suite. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ronnie babbitt Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 9:18 PM To: triumphs2 TRlist; Jim Orr; R. Ashford Little II Subject: [TR] Jekyll Video Here is a video produced by the Jekyll Island Authority. http://vimeo.com/16224520 ronnie From pethier at comcast.net Fri Oct 29 15:18:55 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 21:18:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Convention agenda and unconventional autocross rides In-Reply-To: <13bbc5.761758f.39fc6e89@cs.com> Message-ID: <1433283471.221517.1288387135868.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > In a message dated 10/29/2010 12:17:36 PM Central Daylight Time, > pethier at comcast.net writes: > > > I didn't run the autocross on a bicycle at the '98 VTR convention. > But I did ride a bicycle around redistributing loaner helmets. > > Right. That was Andy Mace. My bad. > > Still great form, tho. > > Dave Dave, you did nothing wrong here. I knew you were talking about Andy. In my egotistical little world here, I just had to tell you all what *I* was doing that day. Right after I hit the send button it occurred to me that I could have written it more clearly to not confuse folks. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Oct 29 15:51:48 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 15:51:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR light guy In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB1083@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB1083@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <80E8345B-0F26-491F-84D3-08E86FD6A936@comcast.net> I bought some and installed them at VTR this year. I got the tail light/brake light combination 1157 equivalent LED bulbs. Found out that I can't turn on the tail light/headlight switch on the column of a 71 TR6 and use my cruise control at the same time. I've got a message into Jim Thompson at LiteZupp but don't think he's back from VTR yet so I haven't heard his diagnosis of this issue. I'm thinking it has something to do with the brake light portion of the LED bulb and the brake light switch since my cruise is hooked to the brake light switch and shuts off when the brake pedal is touched (just like a real modern car). I just don't know how it could be happening after looking at the wiring schematics in Dan Masters electrical maintenance handbook. The cruise works just fine as long as I don't turn the light switch (on the column on). If I try to use the taillights it shuts the cruise off just as if I had touched the brake pedal. Putting the LEDs in was the ONLY thing the changed so it has to be something going on in there that doesn't happened with regular 1157 bulbs. Both the cruise and the lights work just fine independently but not together. Any ideas other than going back to regular bulbs? I wanted the LEDs mostly as running lights on the highways but the cruise control is a higher priority driving lots of miles and I at least have better brake lights when in traffic and not using the cruise control. I'd still like both to work at the same time for night time, and rainy-cloudy weather occasions. Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Oct 28, 2010, at 8:31 PM, Foster, Stan (HP IT) wrote: > LiteZupp Industries, LLC > Attn: Chris Reyher > 1823 Rolling Ridge Drive > Grapevine,TX 76051 > www.litezupp.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > ] > On Behalf Of marty sukey > Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 10:23 PM > To: Triumph List > Subject: [TR] VTR light guy > > Anybody have the contact info for the guy that was selling the > replacement > tail light bulb at the VTR convention? When I was in the room he was > not and > the opposite also. There was a business card in my goodie bag but I > cannot > find it. > > Marty > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 29 16:12:56 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 18:12:56 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR light guy Message-ID: <527f.44e24805.39fca0e8@cs.com> In a message dated 10/29/2010 4:52:18 PM Central Daylight Time, levilevi at comcast.net writes: > I bought some and installed them at VTR this year. I got the tail > light/brake light combination 1157 equivalent LED bulbs. Found out > that I can't turn on the tail light/headlight switch on the column of > a 71 TR6 and use my cruise control at the same time. I've got a > message into Jim Thompson at LiteZupp but don't think he's back from > VTR yet so I haven't heard his diagnosis of this issue. I'm thinking > it has something to do with the brake light portion of the LED bulb > and the brake light switch since my cruise is hooked to the brake > light switch and shuts off when the brake pedal is touched (just like > a real modern car). I just don't know how it could be happening after > looking at the wiring schematics in Dan Masters electrical maintenance > handbook. > > > The cruise works just fine as long as I don't turn the light switch > (on the column on). If I try to use the taillights it shuts the > cruise off just as if I had touched the brake pedal. Putting the LEDs > in was the ONLY thing the changed so it has to be something going on > in there that doesn't happened with regular 1157 bulbs. Both the > cruise and the lights work just fine independently but not together. > > Any ideas other than going back to regular bulbs? I wanted the LEDs > mostly as running lights on the highways but the cruise control is a > higher priority driving lots of miles and I at least have better brake > lights when in traffic and not using the cruise control. I'd still > like both to work at the same time for night time, and rainy-cloudy > weather occasions. > First of all, have you verified that the lights still work per normal? Check to make sure the gound wires are still attached. If everything is still A-OK then a 100 Ohm resistor in parallel with the brake lights should solve the problem. LED's behave differently than filament bulbs. The LED's are in a series/parallel combination and the LED's will draw no current until the threaashold voltage is reached which coul be 9 - 10 volts. That high of a voltage can trigger the cruise control shut-off function. Besides, a guy your age shouldn't be driving at night, old fart. Dave (old fart) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Oct 29 16:30:37 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 15:30:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR light guy In-Reply-To: <527f.44e24805.39fca0e8@cs.com> References: <527f.44e24805.39fca0e8@cs.com> Message-ID: <01cd01cb77b8$e9730c30$bc592490$@rr.com> > then a 100 Ohm resistor in parallel with the brake lights should > solve the problem. What he said. However, it should be at least a 2 watt resistor (preferably 5 watts IMO) and mounted where it is not touching anything flammable as it will get hot if you hold the brakes on for very long. Should be readily available from any electronics supply, even Radio Shack: http://tinyurl.com/297793w -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Oct 30 06:22:18 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 08:22:18 EDT Subject: [TR] VTR light guy Message-ID: <606a8.18459aa3.39fd67fa@cs.com> In a message dated 10/29/2010 5:30:41 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > What he said. However, it should be at least a 2 watt resistor > (preferably > 5 watts IMO) and mounted where it is not touching anything flammable as it > will get hot if you hold the brakes on for very long. > Gppd point. If you want to get real fancy-like, you can get a chassis mount resistor and bolt it to the sheet metal. I didn't see any thing like that on the R-S website but you can get one (or 600) from Mouser. http://tinyurl.com/297793w Another option is to check out the shops that cater to hobbiests. Surely Denver has one of those. I would think that every city of that size has at least on. St. Louis has two such stores Perhaps Fistels carries these. Any shop with Saturday hours must cater to hobbiests. http://www.fistells.com/ Dave From keithstewart at execulink.com Sat Oct 30 09:16:06 2010 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:16:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This morning I received an unsolicited email from a vendor doing business as "Britannia Parts and Conversions". I had never heard of this business before and thought it rather coincidental that I just recently posted here. Has anyone else received a similar unsolicited email? Do we have a vendor trolling our list for potential customers as opposed to providing assistance for inquiries? Inquiring minds want to know. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From aljlthomson at charter.net Sat Oct 30 09:33:10 2010 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:33:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation References: Message-ID: <33A27875EAA94665B786AAE0C0EEDDBF@D6254Z51> I received it also. None of the tabs for car parts led to anything except a generic web hosting site. Now I wonder what we have! Alex Thomson Connecticut Triumph Register ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Stewart" To: Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 11:16 AM Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation > This morning I received an unsolicited email from a vendor doing business > as > "Britannia Parts and Conversions". I had never heard of this business > before > and thought it rather coincidental that I just recently posted here. Has > anyone else received a similar unsolicited email? Do we have a vendor > trolling > our list for potential customers as opposed to providing assistance for > inquiries? Inquiring minds want to know. > > > Keith R. Stewart > 75 Camden Road > London, Ontario > N5X 2K2 > Home: (519) 660-1916 > E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Oct 30 09:37:32 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 15:37:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Jekyll Video In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB1E25@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <975615758.545330.1288453052439.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Thanks for sending this to the list...I watched it and to my suprise, I was the first of the clip in the 61 TR3A....wow! Tom Fansher And also some video of the Le Mans start competition http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/VTR2010/?action=view¤t =VTR-2010-LeMans.mp4 From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sat Oct 30 09:42:31 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:42:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation Message-ID: <14c120.124f0e0a.39fd96e7@aol.com> I got it to - but I haven't posted to the list in some time - it didn't occur to me (and still doesn't) that my address could have been harvested from this list - could have been from any number of other places. Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 10/30/2010 11:33:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, aljlthomson at charter.net writes: > This morning I received an unsolicited email from a vendor doing business > as > "Britannia Parts and Conversions". I had never heard of this business > before > and thought it rather coincidental that I just recently posted here From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Oct 30 09:57:20 2010 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:57:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Same here.. Dave Connitt From allegrorover at mac.com Sat Oct 30 09:58:48 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:58:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B246D12-F070-4BB8-8AE9-9FCAED4BDD3E@mac.com> Yes I got the same message. I was wondering how they got my email address....... Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 30 10:23:39 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 09:23:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <063901cb784e$d0003d90$0301a8c0@randall> I got it too, but the interesting part is that I got two copies. One came to an email address that I've not actively used for several years. So if they did harvest addresses from this list, it wasn't from recent posts. At any rate, I don't do business with people who send me spam. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Sat Oct 30 10:33:54 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 09:33:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: <063901cb784e$d0003d90$0301a8c0@randall> References: <063901cb784e$d0003d90$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: I got one that was filtered to my Junk folder. When I looked at it, all that was there were a few HTML Links. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 9:24 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Vendor Solicitation I got it too, but the interesting part is that I got two copies. One came to an email address that I've not actively used for several years. So if they did harvest addresses from this list, it wasn't from recent posts. At any rate, I don't do business with people who send me spam. Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 30 10:47:54 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 09:47:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: <33A27875EAA94665B786AAE0C0EEDDBF@D6254Z51> References: <33A27875EAA94665B786AAE0C0EEDDBF@D6254Z51> Message-ID: <066701cb7852$3352b1e0$0301a8c0@randall> > Now I wonder what we have! Google shows that the address is a residential district, with newer, large, well kept homes. So it's a garage shop at best. Most of the links lead back to MailChimp.com, which bills itself as an "email marketing service" and brags that they send over 20,000,000 emails per day. No doubt at least some of their customers are legitimate, but those who lie down with dogs ... Randall "Psst, hey Buddy. Wanna buy some car parts? NOS! Look like they were made yesterday!" From jmitch at snet.net Sat Oct 30 11:00:15 2010 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 13:00:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CCC4F1F.8060603@snet.net> I received it also. John Mitchell On 10/30/2010 11:16 AM, Keith Stewart wrote: > This morning I received an unsolicited email from a vendor doing business as > "Britannia Parts and Conversions". I had never heard of this business before > and thought it rather coincidental that I just recently posted here. Has > anyone else received a similar unsolicited email? Do we have a vendor trolling > our list for potential customers as opposed to providing assistance for > inquiries? Inquiring minds want to know. From team.net at daveola.com Sat Oct 30 11:06:10 2010 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 10:06:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > This morning I received an unsolicited email from a vendor doing business as > "Britannia Parts and Conversions". I had never heard of this business before > and thought it rather coincidental that I just recently posted here. Has It *was* harvested from this mailing list, and it was harvested from the archives, where (sadly) our email addresses are not scrubbed. (But could be - so consider this a request to our list admin to *please* not publish our email addresses to the web, there are mailman options to hide email addresses) And yes, I don't do business with spammers - they can't exactly claim ignorance if they have the technical savvy to scan our archives for email addresses. Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 ------- "It is a good morning exercise for a research scientist to -------- discard a pet hypothesis every day before breakfast. It keeps him young." - Konrad Lorenz From davidt at opentext.com Sat Oct 30 11:35:57 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 13:35:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Yes got the spam here too. Whenever I get those, I am suspicious for spam links or malicious links so to the garbage it goes. The only british car emails I look at are the one I signed up for :-). Regards David Templeton '59 tr3a '74 spitsix Drumbo, ON From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sat Oct 30 11:44:56 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 12:44:56 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation Message-ID: <1069004424.693998.1288460696547.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 30 11:50:42 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 10:50:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <067801cb785a$f93793f0$0301a8c0@randall> > It *was* harvested from this mailing list, and it was harvested from > the archives, where (sadly) our email addresses are not scrubbed. I'll be ... so they aren't. They used to be; maybe that feature got lost in the transition from Majordomo to Mailman. Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Oct 30 12:52:58 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 14:52:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Historic Preservation of Original Triumphs Message-ID: <9e641.1545873b.39fdc38a@aol.com> In talking to Darrell, VTR is quite aware of this effect and there is talk of promoting a "Survivor's" class for unrestored cars. Dave, That could be the Historic Preservation of Original Features Class. We have discussed it. Bill Sohl told my that the ACCA has such a class. I believe it would be a non competitive class with Gold, Silver and Bronze awards dependant on the condition of the Triumph. Something like the car would need to be 80% non restored original I personally have 3 cars that may qualify. Not sure if there is much interest but it is certainly open for discussion Cheers, Darrell VTR Chief Judge From carlsereda at aol.com Sat Oct 30 13:12:33 2010 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 12:12:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 481 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <0AEC1664.A8B1.493E.AF24.AC7E71A0FD7E@aol.com> I also got the notice of"Britannia Parts and Conversions" as well.. their website worked fine for me. I don't know if our hobby can support another parts business but I considered it good news and enjoyed visiting their site. Carl '63 TR4 since '74 On Oct 30, 2010, at 9:33:17 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: I got it to - but I haven't posted to the list in some time - it didn't occur to me (and still doesn't) that my address could have been harvested from this list - could have been from any number of other places. From keithstewart at execulink.com Sat Oct 30 14:14:29 2010 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 16:14:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Unsolicited Vendor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 2010-10-30, at 12:33 PM, Randall wrote: > I got it too, but the interesting part is that I got two copies. One came > to an email address that I've not actively used for several years. > > So if they did harvest addresses from this list, it wasn't from recent > posts. > > At any rate, I don't do business with people who send me spam. > > Randall I sent an email to them basically saying that. If I ever hear from them again (unsolicited) I will not only never buy from them, but I will do what I can to persuade others to do likewise. From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Oct 30 15:18:57 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 17:18:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] VTR Concours Judging Message-ID: <1a43a8.7a5d2a7c.39fde5c1@aol.com> Hey Guys, FYI for everyone, VTR Judges are instructed: To use the standard of new vehicle on the showroom floor. Many of you have seen clean original Triumph's and they really were not that great, Huh? The standard is NOT the pristinely restored car coming out of a trailer. Over restoration is neither rewarded or penalized. Many times a driven car will score higher than a Trailer queen but not always. Did any of you look at the last TR6 on display at Jekyll with less than 1000 miles on the clock? How about that orange peeled BRG paint job? To only deduct for accumulated dirt, grease and oil not fresh dirt acquired driving to and at the convention so rubber shavings in the wheel wells from the autocross is OK. Since we drive our cars a certain amount of minimal wear and tear is to be expected. Mishaps occurring driving to and at the convention are forgiven. For instance I shattered my drivers side glass on the TR6 right after the Fun Rallye. To make deductions for reproduction parts if they differ significantly in form or material from the original parts. The deduction is one half of the total points for the component in question. Consumable parts such as radiator caps, ignition wires (must be the correct color), fuses, etc are not receiving deduction. We still like to see the original baby tennax fasteners on early TR2's and the Lucas script on radiator caps but we have made allowances for some parts that are not available anywhere such as allowing stainless steel exhaust systems. At Jekyll I had and excellent crew of volunteer judges and they were very kind to the cars. All the Triumphs received Gold certificates except two that were Silver with no Bronze so the Triumphs presented must have been in excellent condition. Some of the classes were very competitive. The BOS was actually an original very low mileage 80 Spitfire 1500 not a restored car. Second in that class was a lightly restored 1500 that was formerly BOS at VTR. If anyone really wants to know how we judge, please attend the judges school. All are welcome. Darrell From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Oct 30 15:37:05 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 17:37:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements Message-ID: <9f1e1.9c007b4.39fdea01@aol.com> One More thing Guys & Gals, There always are really nice Triumphs that do not show in Concours and prefer Participants Choice. I often wonder why? Perhaps they know the have a good chance to win by popular vote. Truthfully I don't mind much because with 60 to 85 cars to judge in Concours we have a decent work load with a limited amount of time. BTW, lesser cars in Concours by Rule may be visually judged with general deductions if a team has several cars to judge. The important job is to get the 1st, 2nd, and third place cars correct. Then I must admit that I am the one (perhaps the only one) who would like the toss the driving requirement. So the talk that Dave referred to may be coming from me alone. I believe if a Triumph is driven on to the show field under it's own power that is enough. During over 20 years of going to Triumph national car shows I have seen exactly two cars rolled out of trailers onto the show field. Once at a TRA National Meeting and once at Canadian Classic. The one at TRA got hammered in Concours. On the other side I have heard of a few instances where Triumph owners drove to the convention and did not realize they needed a driving event to show. Should driving to the convention be a driving event? I had a TR8 beat my TR8 in Concours when he did the Gymkhana in reverse gear because he had lost all forward gears driving to the convention and came in on a trailer. I did not mind. His car was better than mine and he was a fine person by the name of Bill Wood. This year a very good friend of mine drove his TR6 850 miles to Jekyll with a leaking water pump. He took it on the dinner runs the nite before the Concours to get a sticker but just didn't feel like cleaning it anymore and left it out of the show. I was prepared to wave the requirement if he asked. The requirement has been waved before for good reasons. Off my soapbox for now and yes I will now put on my Flame Retardant Suit. Darrell Cheers, Darrell From spitlist at cox.net Sat Oct 30 15:50:27 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 14:50:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements In-Reply-To: <9f1e1.9c007b4.39fdea01@aol.com> References: <9f1e1.9c007b4.39fdea01@aol.com> Message-ID: That's easy Darrell. We don't believe in the "holier than thou" concept of the concours scenario. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 2:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements One More thing Guys & Gals, There always are really nice Triumphs that do not show in Concours and prefer Participants Choice. I often wonder why? Perhaps they know the have a good chance to win by popular vote. Truthfully I don't mind much because with 60 to 85 cars to judge in Concours we have a decent work load with a limited amount of time. BTW, lesser cars in Concours by Rule may be visually judged with general deductions if a team has several cars to judge. The important job is to get the 1st, 2nd, and third place cars correct. Then I must admit that I am the one (perhaps the only one) who would like the toss the driving requirement. So the talk that Dave referred to may be coming from me alone. I believe if a Triumph is driven on to the show field under it's own power that is enough. During over 20 years of going to Triumph national car shows I have seen exactly two cars rolled out of trailers onto the show field. Once at a TRA National Meeting and once at Canadian Classic. The one at TRA got hammered in Concours. On the other side I have heard of a few instances where Triumph owners drove to the convention and did not realize they needed a driving event to show. Should driving to the convention be a driving event? I had a TR8 beat my TR8 in Concours when he did the Gymkhana in reverse gear because he had lost all forward gears driving to the convention and came in on a trailer. I did not mind. His car was better than mine and he was a fine person by the name of Bill Wood. This year a very good friend of mine drove his TR6 850 miles to Jekyll with a leaking water pump. He took it on the dinner runs the nite before the Concours to get a sticker but just didn't feel like cleaning it anymore and left it out of the show. I was prepared to wave the requirement if he asked. The requirement has been waved before for good reasons. Off my soapbox for now and yes I will now put on my Flame Retardant Suit. Darrell Cheers, Darrell _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sat Oct 30 16:18:07 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 15:18:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers? Message-ID: <52878.38377.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> My TR3A is my only car/daily driver now - rain, snow or sun. I do have a 4X4 truck for the bad snow. How many listers have their sidescreen TR's as their only car for driving to work? Is it okay to chain up a TR3 with wire wheels? -Bill in Tehachapi From tr6nut at verizon.net Sat Oct 30 10:24:34 2010 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 12:24:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: <33A27875EAA94665B786AAE0C0EEDDBF@D6254Z51> References: <33A27875EAA94665B786AAE0C0EEDDBF@D6254Z51> Message-ID: <4CCC46C2.5080001@verizon.net> When I clicked on the "contact", here's what I got: Britannia Parts and Conversions Corporation 242 Saint Raphael Ile Bizard, Quebec H9E 1S2 1-866-758-2984 Hugh Barber Stafford, Va '73 TR6 From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 30 16:43:47 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 15:43:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers? In-Reply-To: <52878.38377.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <52878.38377.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <06a601cb7883$eaa0d990$0301a8c0@randall> > Is it okay to chain up a TR3 with wire wheels? > Should be fine, although it's been many years since I tried it. Make sure they are tight, though, as clearance to the rear fender brace is limited. If they get just a little bit loose, they are apt to take out that brace. After initial installation, drive 10 or 20 feet and tighten them; then drive a few blocks and check them again. Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Oct 30 17:03:43 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 19:03:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements Message-ID: <73de8.5b5e7868.39fdfe4f@aol.com> In a message dated 10/30/2010 5:50:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: That's easy Darrell. We don't believe in the "holier than thou" concept of the concours scenario. Joe Hey Joe I understand that too, but I always felt funny about putting my prepared for Showroom Stock Triumphs into P/C to compete against daily driver folks. Even my Modified Triumphs prepared for show do not belong there either. That's what you see sometimes at VTR. I suppose I just fell like P/C cars from driver Triumphs deserve their own chance to win an award and all these super restored Triumphs belong in the same class, however they are to be judged. Instead they are copping awards out of P/C! Oh my, Flame Retardant Suit In Place! Darrell From dkspence at telus.net Sat Oct 30 18:46:33 2010 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 18:46:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3F0BB54F-19CA-401C-97A8-10C2C6A1F4F0@telus.net> me too On 30-Oct-10, at 10:33 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: Re: [TR] Vendor Solicitation From spitlist at cox.net Sat Oct 30 20:40:06 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 19:40:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements In-Reply-To: <73de8.5b5e7868.39fdfe4f@aol.com> References: <73de8.5b5e7868.39fdfe4f@aol.com> Message-ID: I guess the only thing you can do to appease everybody is to have a class for every conceivable situation. Or you could just give a trophy to everyone that enters. Joe _____ From: TR250Driver at aol.com [mailto:TR250Driver at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 4:04 PM To: spitlist at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements In a message dated 10/30/2010 5:50:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: That's easy Darrell. We don't believe in the "holier than thou" concept of the concours scenario. Joe Hey Joe I understand that too, but I always felt funny about putting my prepared for Showroom Stock Triumphs into P/C to compete against daily driver folks. Even my Modified Triumphs prepared for show do not belong there either. That's what you see sometimes at VTR. I suppose I just fell like P/C cars from driver Triumphs deserve their own chance to win an award and all these super restored Triumphs belong in the same class, however they are to be judged. Instead they are copping awards out of P/C! Oh my, Flame Retardant Suit In Place! Darrell From FordneyNJ at aol.com Sat Oct 30 21:47:00 2010 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 23:47:00 EDT Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation Message-ID: <147e2f.6c220e4e.39fe40b4@aol.com> Message: 8 Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:16:06 -0400 From: Keith Stewart Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii This morning I received an unsolicited email from a vendor doing business as "Britannia Parts and Conversions". I had never heard of this business before and thought it rather coincidental that I just recently posted here. Has anyone else received a similar unsolicited email? Do we have a vendor trolling our list for potential customers as opposed to providing assistance for inquiries? Inquiring minds want to know. Keith R. Stewart I also received it and know of non-lister who have also. Rodney Ford, President Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS TR7 Spider From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Oct 29 08:12:22 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 10:12:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Convention agenda Message-ID: In a message dated 10/29/2010 7:53:34 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: In talking to Darrell, VTR is quite aware of this effect and there is talk of promoting a "Survivor's" class for unrestored cars. Dave, That could be the Preservation of Original Features Class. We have discussed it. I believe it should be a non competitive class with Gold, Silver and Bronze awards. Not sure there is much interest but it is certainly open for discussion. Also, judges are instructed: To use the standard of new vehicle on the showroom floor. Many of you have seen clean original Triumph's and they really were not that great, Huh? The standard is NOT the pristinely restored car coming out of a trailer. Over restoration is neither rewarded or penalized. Many times a driven car will score higher than a Trailer queen but not always. Did any of you look at the last TR6 on display at Jekyll with less than 1000 miles on the clock? How about that orange peeled BRG paint job? To only deduct for accumulated dirt, grease and oil not fresh dirt acquired driving to and at the convention so rubber shavings in the wheel wells from the autocross is OK. Since we drive our cars a certain amount of minimal wear and tear is to be expected. Mishaps occurring driving to and at the convention are forgiven. For instance I shattered my drivers side glass on the TR6 right after the Fun Rallye. To make deductions for reproduction parts if they differ significantly in form or material from the original parts. The deduction is one half of the total points for the component in question. Consumable parts such as radiator caps, ignition wires (must be the correct color), fuses, etc are not receiving deduction. We still like to see the original baby tennax fasteners on early TR2's and the Lucas script on radiator caps but we have made allowances for some parts that are not available anywhere such as allowing stainless steel exhaust systems. At Jekyll I had and excellent crew of volunteer judges and they were very kind to the cars. All the Triumphs received Gold certificates except two that were Silver with no Bronze so the Triumphs presented must have been in excellent condition. Some of the classes were very competitive. The BOS was actually an original very low mileage original 80 Spitfire 1500 not a restored car. Second in that class was a lightly restored 1500 that was formerly BOS at VTR. If anyone really wants to know how we judge, please attend the judges school. All are welcome. There always are really nice Triumphs that do not show in Concours and prefer Participants Choice. I often wonder why and that is something I would not do myself. Perhaps they know the have a good chance to win by popular vote. Truthfully I don't mind much because with 60 to 85 cars we have a decent work load and a limited amount of time. Lesser cars in Concours by Rule may be visually judged with general deductions if a team has several cars to judge. The important job is to get the 1st, 2nd, and third place cars correct. I am the one (perhaps the only one) who would like the toss the driving requirement. So that talk may be coming from me alone. I believe if a Triumph is driven on to the show field under it's own power that is enough. During over 20 years of going to Triumph national car shows I have seen exactly two cars rolled out of trailers onto the show field.. Once at a TRA National Meeting and once at Canadian Classic. The one at TRA got hammered in Concours. I have heard of a few instances where Triumph owners drove to the convention and did not realize they needed a driving event to show. Should driving to the convention be a driving event? I had a TR8 beat my TR8 in Concours when he did the Gymkhana in reverse gear because he had lost all forward gears driving to the convention and came in on a trailer. I did not mind. His car was better than mine and he was a fine person by the name of Bill Wood. This year a very good friend of mine drove his TR6 850 miles to Jekyll with a leaking water pump. He took it on the dinner runs the nite before the Concours to get a sticker but just didn't feel like cleaning it anymore and left it out of the show. I was prepared to wave the requirement if he asked. The requirement has been waved before for good reasons. Off my soapbox for now and yes I will now put on my Flame Retardant Suit. Cheers, Darrell From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Oct 31 04:51:28 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 07:51:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation References: <147e2f.6c220e4e.39fe40b4@aol.com> Message-ID: I looked at the site very closely. If you look at the terms and conditions regarding Sales Tax they state they will apply State Sales Tax on sales in California as well as Virginia. Usually that happens when a business has a location in those states where they must apply sales tax. They must be affiliated with someone who is also located in California and Virginia. Moss comes to mind as I think Moss has a distribution center in Virginia. So if you are on a Moss list then you would be on this list too. My guess is that they want to appeal to mostly Canadians. Just a guess. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 11:47 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Vendor Solicitation > Message: 8 > Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:16:06 -0400 > From: Keith Stewart > Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > This morning I received an unsolicited email from a vendor doing business > as > "Britannia Parts and Conversions". I had never heard of this business > before > and thought it rather coincidental that I just recently posted here. Has > anyone else received a similar unsolicited email? Do we have a vendor > trolling > our list for potential customers as opposed to providing assistance for > inquiries? Inquiring minds want to know. > > > Keith R. Stewart > > > > I also received it and know of non-lister who have also. > > > > > > Rodney Ford, President > Positive Earth Drivers Club > TR4A IRS > TR7 Spider > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Oct 31 04:52:57 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 07:52:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation Message-ID: <37FB50C7AA4B42C1B25290FC72FB4352@userb38463fba5> I looked at the site very closely. If you look at the terms and conditions regarding Sales Tax they state they will apply State Sales Tax on sales in California as well as Virginia. Usually that happens when a business has a location in those states where they must apply sales tax. They must be affiliated with someone who is also located in California and Virginia. Moss comes to mind as I think Moss has a distribution center in Virginia. So if you are on a Moss list then you would be on this list too. My guess is that they want to appeal to mostly Canadians. Just a guess. JVV From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Oct 31 05:46:18 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 07:46:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: <147e2f.6c220e4e.39fe40b4@aol.com> References: <147e2f.6c220e4e.39fe40b4@aol.com> Message-ID: I found mine in the junk folder. I'm sill using my original email address, so I have no idea how old his source was. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: FordneyNJ at aol.com > Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 23:47:00 -0400 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Vendor Solicitation > > Message: 8 > Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:16:06 -0400 > From: Keith Stewart > Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > This morning I received an unsolicited email from a vendor doing business > as > "Britannia Parts and Conversions". I had never heard of this business > before > and thought it rather coincidental that I just recently posted here. Has > anyone else received a similar unsolicited email? Do we have a vendor > trolling > our list for potential customers as opposed to providing assistance for > inquiries? Inquiring minds want to know. > > > Keith R. Stewart > > > > I also received it and know of non-lister who have also. > > > > > > Rodney Ford, President > Positive Earth Drivers Club > TR4A IRS > TR7 Spider > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Oct 31 06:27:02 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 13:27:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Pertinox Wiring and General Comment In-Reply-To: <340432903.508986.1288531238189.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <778155973.509185.1288531622885.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> TR3A TS 58667 has been running less than optimal. Still had pick up, but less than it ought. Ran rough at idle. Also seemed like the top end faltered at 4k RPM. Re-installed the Pertonix. Combed List archives here yesterday; finally found how the red and black wires hooked up to the coil: red to positive, black to negative for a negative ground car. But the thing that took forever to find in Archives was that for the Pertonix, the wire in the harness coming from the key goes to the positive coil terminal for a negative ground car. This must be reversed to the negative terminal when running points. So, for the record, here it is in one place. I also found I didn't know how to spell Pertonix. That, alas, is another, sad, story. Then I installed the MGB distributor with metal core wires left over from an old plow truck. Am keeping the old TR distributor with wire screws as a spare in the car. Power differential feels considerable. Will never go back. Lastly, I happened to notice that one of the carb damper screws had come loose and was hanging on the lip of the resevoir. What exactly would be the symptoms for that? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A Closing in on cold weather in New Hampshire, but still driving with the top down...til it snows! From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Oct 31 07:46:29 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 10:46:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements Message-ID: In a message dated 10/30/2010 10:40:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: I guess the only thing you can do to appease everybody is to have a class for every conceivable situation. Or you could just give a trophy to everyone that enters. Joe Joe, That's what they do at Triumphfest, correct? Everyone gets an award in the Funcours with the vast majority being Gold. You know in the general scope of our Triumph hobby and all things being considered I don't think that's a real bad thing to do other than it makes for a long banquet award presentation. We are just amateurs and this is all supposed to be fun so taking the most of the politics and judgement calls out of the showing of are beloved cars might not be a bad thing. All winners and no losers makes for happy friends. Darrell From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Oct 31 07:59:05 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 10:59:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements Message-ID: In a message dated 10/31/2010 10:52:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: All winners and no losers makes for happy friends. ...and also makes the entire exercise completely pointless. I hope nobody ever thinks we should run an autocross like that From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Oct 31 08:05:30 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 11:05:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation Message-ID: In a message dated 10/31/2010 7:53:41 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes: They must be affiliated with someone who is also located in California and Virginia. Moss comes to mind as I think Moss has a distribution center in Virginia. So if you are on a Moss list then you would be on this list too no it just means they are a Moss parts reseller and will sell parts shipped directly from Moss on either coast. From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Oct 31 08:17:32 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 11:17:32 EDT Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements Message-ID: In a message dated 10/31/2010 10:08:12 AM Central Daylight Time, McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: > I hope nobody ever thinks we should run an autocross like that Maybe speed limits on the course? I attended the national event of the Triumph Club of France last may and they had a funkahna that had an Ideal Time and you were penalized one point per finve seconds form coming in over that time and one point per second for coming in under. Sort of a cross between our funkahna and a TSD with one stage. BTW I took first (just dumb luck) Dave From deruiterville at hotmail.com Sun Oct 31 08:18:22 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 10:18:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just curious- are all VTR shows set up similarly with Concours cars separated from Participants choice? Everyone goes to these things for individual reasons, but what struck me at this show is that we had maybe 2/3 or greater Participants choice,and 1/3 concours. Yet when I walked around, I really didn't see much distinction in car quality (no offense meant there). Why aren't all the cars all together by Model, and just identify for the judges who is in concours? From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Oct 31 08:15:28 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 15:15:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB2899@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> In the Moss web site privacy statement at http://www.mossmotors.com/CustomerService/Privacy.aspx They say: We do not sell, trade, or rent your personal information to others. Except as provided for above, any personal information collected will not be disclosed to any third party, except in the case of cooperating with law enforcement agencies. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of McGaheyRx at aol.com Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 11:06 AM To: jerryvv at roadrunner.com; FordneyNJ at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In a message dated 10/31/2010 7:53:41 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes: They must be affiliated with someone who is also located in California and Virginia. Moss comes to mind as I think Moss has a distribution center in Virginia. So if you are on a Moss list then you would be on this list too From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 31 08:27:47 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 08:27:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pertinox Wiring and General Comment In-Reply-To: <778155973.509185.1288531622885.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <340432903.508986.1288531238189.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <778155973.509185.1288531622885.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <075901cb7910$2c8f2f50$0301a8c0@randall> > But the thing that took forever to find in Archives was that > for the Pertonix, the wire in the harness coming from the key > goes to the positive coil terminal for a negative ground car. > This must be reversed to the negative terminal when running > points. So, for the record, here it is in one place. Only problem is, that is NOT correct. The harness wire should go to the positive coil terminal for negative ground, even when running points. The coil is always connected according to the marked polarity, and since the points in the distributor connect to ground, the distributor wire should go to the coil terminal that matches the ground polarity. > Am keeping the old TR > distributor with wire screws as a spare in the car. Power > differential feels considerable. That says to me that you had a defective cap or wires. Should be no performance difference at all. However, the screw style cap does seem to frequently lead to problems with "carbon core" wires, and using the MGB cap (with push-in high tension terminals) is one solution to the problem. > Lastly, I happened to notice that one of the carb damper > screws had come loose and was hanging on the lip of the > resevoir. What exactly would be the symptoms for that? Engine stumbles (loses power) or even sputters when you open the throttle, but will eventually pick up and run smoothly if you hold constant throttle. With only one loose, the effect is not too severe, but with both loose it can quit running entirely if you suddenly floor the throttle. Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Oct 31 09:06:05 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 12:06:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements Message-ID: <11094.32b19bd4.39feeded@aol.com> In a message dated 10/31/2010 11:18:24 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, deruiterville at hotmail.com writes: Everyone goes to these things for individual reasons, but what struck me at this show is that we had maybe 2/3 or greater Participants choice,and 1/3 concours There were 55 cars in Judged Conours with 150 + Triumphs so I believe your observation is correct. We have had 80 or so in the past but that was also when we were getting 200+ total cars registered. Interesting that we had 68 pre-register for Concours two weeks before the convention so there were at least 13 no shows, 8 in the modified touring class alone. We had 16 of those going in and 8 on the field. This is typical of that class the last few years. Where are they going? I suspect back to P/C once they see the competition. Darrell From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Oct 31 09:32:55 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 12:32:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements Message-ID: <11d51.1d04ee90.39fef437@aol.com> In a message dated 10/31/2010 11:23:34 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, deruiterville at hotmail.com writes: Why aren't all the cars all together by Model, and just identify for the judges who is in concours? I've seen this done once - different color placards for Concours and Participants Choice - the result was mass confusion on which cars to vote for - even with different color placards and clear instructions on the ballot, many participants choice votes were cast for Concours cars. So the problem isn't with Concours judges finding the right cars to judge - its with participants identifying which cars to vote for. Cheers, Jack Mc From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Oct 31 09:49:04 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 12:49:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements In-Reply-To: <11d51.1d04ee90.39fef437@aol.com> References: <11d51.1d04ee90.39fef437@aol.com> Message-ID: <9DF14E40A7DE4FE7851929FF31D8749B@CarlPC> What if the cars were separated in some manner - front rows = concours, back rows - p/c or if all in one row - one end = c other end = p/c? Signage to indicate which category... ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 12:32 PM Subject: Re: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements > In a message dated 10/31/2010 11:23:34 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > deruiterville at hotmail.com writes: > > Why > aren't all the cars all together by Model, and just identify for the > judges > who is in concours? > > > > I've seen this done once - different color placards for Concours and > Participants Choice - the result was mass confusion on which cars to vote > for - > even with different color placards and clear instructions on the ballot, > many participants choice votes were cast for Concours cars. > So the problem isn't with Concours judges finding the right cars to > judge - > its with participants identifying which cars to vote for. From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Oct 31 10:33:13 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 13:33:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements Message-ID: <145aa.f7de769.39ff0259@aol.com> In a message dated 10/31/2010 1:17:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: What if the cars were separated in some manner - front rows = concours, back rows - p/c or if all in one row - one end = c other end = p/c? Signage to indicate which category... could work - could also be very hard to line up and sort cars as they arrive on the show field. Arrangement, line-up, sorting etc of cars on the show field is entirely up to the host - not determined by any VTR policy - what the host does may be limited by site configuration, site access, available help to direct cars as they arrive, etc - and the best plans may be derailed by folks switching from P/C to Concours or vice versa, or folks not remembering what they signed up for, etc. The bottom line is, the host has to decide what to do for their particular situation and capabilities - its not dictated by VTR policy or rule Cheers, Jack Mc From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Oct 31 11:30:24 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 14:30:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements Message-ID: <171ce.1ff5f0b6.39ff0fc0@aol.com> In a message dated 10/31/2010 1:39:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: The bottom line is, the host has to decide what to do for their particular situation and capabilities - its not dictated by VTR policy or rule Jack is right on here, I asked the local Concours Director if he wanted to park them all together @ Jekyll and it was decided not to do that for the very reasons that Jack has stated. Last time we did that was in Rockford, IL. You know I kind of liked it because I believe we should be all be together as one. BTW, does everyone know that in the Glory Years, VTR once viewed P/C & Concours Cars equally. If you wanted to be judged, well fine but all the cars were eligible for the Popular Vote. As I recall in 1989 a Royal Blue 70 TR6 won it all, P/C BOS & Concours BOS please correct me if I am wrong. You out there Jim Shaw? That was changed when George Rabey wrote the current VTR Concours Rules mandating the separation. Darrell From deruiterville at hotmail.com Sun Oct 31 12:23:48 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 14:23:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements In-Reply-To: <171ce.1ff5f0b6.39ff0fc0@aol.com> References: <171ce.1ff5f0b6.39ff0fc0@aol.com> Message-ID: Good information and interesting. I personally like to walk around alll of them at once so I definitely have a bias. > > The bottom line is, the host has to decide what to do for their > particular > situation and capabilities - its not dictated by VTR policy or rule > Jack is right on here, > I asked the local Concours Director if he wanted to park them all together > @ Jekyll and it was decided not to do that for the very reasons that Jack > has stated. Last time we did that was in Rockford, IL. You know I kind of > liked it because I believe we should be all be together as one. > > BTW, does everyone know that in the Glory Years, VTR once viewed P/C & > Concours Cars equally. If you wanted to be judged, well fine but all the > cars were eligible for the Popular Vote. As I recall in 1989 a Royal Blue 70 > TR6 won it all, P/C BOS & Concours BOS please correct me if I am wrong. > You out there Jim Shaw? That was changed when George Rabey wrote the current > VTR Concours Rules mandating the separation. From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Oct 31 12:53:47 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 19:53:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Pertinox Wiring and General Comment In-Reply-To: <828842183.522409.1288554797171.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <434423159.522435.1288554827577.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Only problem is, that is NOT correct. The harness wire should go to the >positive coil terminal for negative ground, even when running points. The >coil is always connected according to the marked polarity, and since the >points in the distributor connect to ground, the distributor wire should go >to the coil terminal that matches the ground polarity. Oh my my my my my. I can be such a cannibal on Thanksgiving Day. What I don't understand is, I took the wiring harness wire off the negative terminal and installed it on the positive terminal when I put the Petronix back in. (By the way, that is the correct spelling???? Gadzooks!) The thing is, the car ran fine with points with the harness wire on the negative terminal despite that the car is negative ground! Should it have been running at all, or just with reduced power? Now, what I recall from my Navy electronics days (uhm, more than 3 decades ago), electrons flow from positive to negative, holes flow from negative to positive, and it is the difference in potential between the two that makes one "negative" as opposed to "positive." In other words, a positive 20 volts will run to a positive 15 volts because the difference in potential is still a negative 5. Lord, I can't believe I'm talking like this again. Almost sounds like I know what I'm doing. Anyway, would there be something in that phenomenon that would allow the car to run when the harness wire was hooked to negative? Am I scaring you, Randall, like as in, where do I start to educate this clueless guy???? What the hay, you need a challenge! Terry From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 31 13:36:10 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 16:36:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Pertinox Wiring and General Comment In-Reply-To: <434423159.522435.1288554827577.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <828842183.522409.1288554797171.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>, <434423159.522435.1288554827577.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > Now, what I recall from my Navy electronics days (uhm, more than 3 decades ago), electrons flow from positive to negative, holes flow from negative to positive, and it is the difference in potential between the two that makes one "negative" as opposed to "positive." In other words, a positive 20 volts will run to a positive 15 volts because the difference in potential is still a negative 5. Electrons flow from negative pole to the positive pole. Holes, or lack of electrons, flow from the positive pole to the negative pole. The coil will work when connected either way, but the spark plugs will work very slightly better when the wire from the ignition switch is connected to the positive-marked coil connection on a negative earth car, and to the negative-marked connection on a positive earth car. John H. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 31 15:09:39 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 15:09:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pertinox Wiring and General Comment In-Reply-To: <434423159.522435.1288554827577.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <828842183.522409.1288554797171.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <434423159.522435.1288554827577.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <07bf01cb7948$50117a40$0301a8c0@randall> > The thing is, the car ran fine with points with the harness > wire on the negative terminal despite that the car is > negative ground! Should it have been running at all, or just > with reduced power? Neither one, actually. As John wrote, all the proper coil polarity does is make the plugs somewhat easier to fire. This could be an issue when the ignition is marginal (eg plugs partially fouled, or points worn out); but generally the effect on a well-tuned motor is negligible. (The same is actually true when running a Pertronix.) But if you are going to say one is "right" and one is "wrong", the "right" configuration is for the positive terminal to be positive. Randall From allegrorover at mac.com Sun Oct 31 15:27:53 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 15:27:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pertinox Wiring and General Comment In-Reply-To: References: <828842183.522409.1288554797171.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <434423159.522435.1288554827577.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1AC765CD-16F9-44A1-AF0C-125DE5558BA2@mac.com> Not to add more confusion to the Pertronix issue, BUT......I have the Crane unit on my TR3A, recently when I was having fits getting it to run properly I installed a new Pertronix unit following the instructions, (which are really easy) and the car only backfired a couple of times but wouldn't run at all. I reconnected the Crane unit and it started right up. I spoke to Dave from TRF and he told me to call the manufacturer directly to solve the problem........haven't done that yet....but I will. I'm sure all of this doesn't help, but I had to add my experience. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From rawanderer at comcast.net Sun Oct 31 16:10:46 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 19:10:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Pertinox Wiring and General Comment In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20101031230959.7992A18765D@autox.team.net> Electrons flow from negative pole to the positive pole. That depends on whether you look at it from the chemical [reaction] point of view or the electronics point of view. Drove me up the wall many years ago when I had a Chemistry class on Mondays and Wednesdays and a EE class on Tuesdays and Thursdays! BobW Montgomeryville, PA (near Philadelphia) 1974 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Herrera Sent: Sunday, 31 October, 2010 4:36 PM To: terryrs at comcast.net; Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] Pertinox Wiring and General Comment > Now, what I recall from my Navy electronics days (uhm, more than 3 > decades ago), electrons flow from positive to negative, holes flow from negative to positive, and it is the difference in potential between the two that makes one "negative" as opposed to "positive." In other words, a positive 20 volts will run to a positive 15 volts because the difference in potential is still a negative 5. Electrons flow from negative pole to the positive pole. Holes, or lack of electrons, flow from the positive pole to the negative pole. The coil will work when connected either way, but the spark plugs will work very slightly better when the wire from the ignition switch is connected to the positive-marked coil connection on a negative earth car, and to the negative-marked connection on a positive earth car. John H. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Oct 31 16:22:18 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 16:22:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Convention agenda In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 10/29/10, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > > That could be the Preservation of Original Features Class... The Poof Class? Oh great! Geo (Not that there's anything wrong with that). From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Oct 31 16:30:41 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 16:30:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers? In-Reply-To: <52878.38377.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <52878.38377.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On 10/30/10, William Brewer wrote: > Is it okay to chain up a TR3 with wire wheels? An alternative... for occasional use I suppose but less risky than the chains: http://www.autosockcanada.ca/ Geo From team.net at daveola.com Sun Oct 31 17:40:09 2010 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 17:40:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers? In-Reply-To: <52878.38377.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <52878.38377.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bill says: > How many listers have their sidescreen TR's as their only car Count me in! And happily my TR3 is finally getting repaired after seemingly being a target for a number of hit and runs over the years, hopefully people will leave it alone now. That's the problem with parking in SF, I suppose. People sure can't drive here. Dave http://Triumph.Daveola.com/ --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 ------------- I reserve the right to refuse service to anyone ------------- From team.net at daveola.com Sun Oct 31 17:42:37 2010 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 17:42:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB2899@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB2899@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan says: > In the Moss web site privacy statement .. they say: > > We do not sell, trade, or rent your personal information to others. It wasn't Moss motors. I assure you it was taken from the team.net archives. I have an email address that is *only* used for this mailing list, and that's the one they sent the spam to, so it's clear they got it from the list. I use a different email for Moss, etc... The archives have our email addresses published online, unfortunately. Hopefully this can change soon. Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 ----------------- The person who says it cannot be done ------------------- should not interrupt the person doing it From dave at ranteer.com Sun Oct 31 18:10:36 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 20:10:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re: P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <61CC78B823C640B79EF2A85A64751FBE@ranteer.local> ?we did tsd rally with a broken speedo. we drove hard, then stopped, messed around, took pictures, etc. we just wanted to do the drive. we got third!!!!!! tooo funny! -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 10:17 AM To: Subject: [SPAM] Re: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements > In a message dated 10/31/2010 10:08:12 AM Central Daylight Time, > McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: >> I hope nobody ever thinks we should run an autocross like that > > Maybe speed limits on the course? > > I attended the national event of the Triumph Club of France last may and > they had a funkahna that had an Ideal Time and you were penalized one > point > per finve seconds form coming in over that time and one point per second > for > coming in under. Sort of a cross between our funkahna and a TSD with one > stage. > > > > BTW I took first (just dumb luck) > > Dave > _______________________________________________ From agraham at execulink.com Sun Oct 31 18:58:32 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 21:58:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas cap & filler assembly Message-ID: <4CCE1EC8.2070004@execulink.com> Hello List: Guess I wasn't paying close attention when removing the gas tank & filler combination and now trying to re-install. Can anyone review the order of the pieces? Does the hex nut/spigot combo go below the rear deck into the rubber sleeve and the cap screw on from above the deck? Forms a sort of a sandwich - the hex nut & spigot below the deck and the cap & small chrome washer above the deck? Do I have this right. A really tight fit. Any tips on making the re-install easier? Thanks for any help with this. Feel really dumb... Angelo Graham From trglory at verizon.net Sun Oct 31 19:36:42 2010 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 22:36:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Pertinox Wiring and General Comment In-Reply-To: References: <828842183.522409.1288554797171.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>, <434423159.522435.1288554827577.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <006a01cb796d$9ebc0730$dc341590$@net> If I may add a little kaka to the kettle, I went out and inspected my TR3 to see how I had it hooked up. I discovered that the poles on my (Lucas) coil are not labeled + and -, they are labeled BAT and DIST. Wot now, guvner? Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Herrera Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 4:36 PM To: terryrs at comcast.net; Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] Pertinox Wiring and General Comment > Now, what I recall from my Navy electronics days (uhm, more than 3 decades ago), electrons flow from positive to negative, holes flow from negative to positive, and it is the difference in potential between the two that makes one "negative" as opposed to "positive." In other words, a positive 20 volts will run to a positive 15 volts because the difference in potential is still a negative 5. Electrons flow from negative pole to the positive pole. Holes, or lack of electrons, flow from the positive pole to the negative pole. The coil will work when connected either way, but the spark plugs will work very slightly better when the wire from the ignition switch is connected to the positive-marked coil connection on a negative earth car, and to the negative-marked connection on a positive earth car. John H. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Oct 31 21:43:22 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 21:43:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Door Draught Excluders Message-ID: <539498.79370.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I recently purchased the fuzzy door seals from TRF that are the draft or draught excluders. They have a cross section like a tadpole. Do they go all the way around the door? I think that they might just go on the door's leading edge. How are they attached? It looks like I just glue them on the inside of the cockpit around the door, but I want to know what others have done. I am amazed at how much more I enjoy the TR with the windshield sealed up and a working heater. I was dying in it last year. -Bill in Tehachapi From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Oct 31 21:51:30 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 21:51:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Defrosters Message-ID: <636041.96329.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Few things in life are as pathetic as a stock TR3's heater and defroster... I installed an aftermarket Maradyne tractor cab heater and am very happy with it in comparison to the stock heater. I rigged up the defrost vents and had very little air flow out the defroster vents. I checked and it was blowing out of the defroster ports on the heater fine. There was less flow at the end of the detached defroster duct hose and even less out the defroster vent (to a point that I couldn't tell if any warm air was flowing out). I replaced the stock TR ribbed defroster duct hose with a smoother bore flexible aluminum duct hose from McMaster Carr and it flows much better. We'll see how well it does this winter. If it doesn't cut it then I may re-engineer new defroster vents and install a 1 and 3/4th defroster duct hose. That should take a sledge hammer to it. Then again, it may work fine. I have been tired of using my sleeve as the defroster/defogger.... Bill in Tehachapi