From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Nov  1 04:52:40 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 07:52:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <5b95.24bb2a59.3a000408@cs.com>

In a message dated 10/31/2010 8:26:19 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dave at ranteer.com writes: 
> ?we did tsd rally with a broken speedo.  we drove hard, then stopped, 
> messed 
> around, took pictures, etc.  we just wanted to do the drive.
> 
> we got third!!!!!!  tooo funny!
> 
> 
 Hey, a blind pig finds an acorn every once in a awhile.  (I proved that)

Dave

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Nov  1 04:54:05 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 07:54:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas cap & filler assembly
In-Reply-To: <4CCE1EC8.2070004@execulink.com>
References: <4CCE1EC8.2070004@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <201011010754.06795.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, October 31, 2010 09:58:32 pm Angelo Graham wrote:
> Hello List:
> Guess I wasn't paying close attention when removing the gas tank &
> filler combination and now trying to re-install. Can anyone review the
> order of the pieces? Does the hex nut/spigot combo go below the rear
> deck into the rubber sleeve and the cap screw on from above the deck?
> Forms a sort of a sandwich - the hex nut & spigot below the deck and the
> cap & small chrome washer above the deck? Do I have this right. A really
> tight fit. Any tips on making the re-install easier?
> Thanks for any help with this. Feel really dumb...
> Angelo Graham
>

Angelo,

The large hex nut does go below the deck and the cap + chrome ring go above. 
As you might of guessed the cap is screwed into the hex nut.
It is a tight fit to get the hose on the tank and the hex nut at the same 
time.

I believe the last time I did this the tank was not tightened down so I had 
some wiggle room. I believe I attached the hose to the hex nut/spigot first 
and then eased the hose over the take inlet.

Dont forget to install the clamps very loose before you put the hose on!

In order to orientate the gas cap correctly, make sure you screw the cap 
tight, align, and then tighten the hose clamps.

Bob

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Nov  1 05:27:13 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2010 08:27:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas cap & filler assembly
In-Reply-To: <201011010754.06795.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <4CCE1EC8.2070004@execulink.com>
	<201011010754.06795.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <E662957887614A639A2C3B3D46C99080@CarlPC>

ISTR that I also shortened the hose by about 1/2-3/4".  With the tank in 
place I measured the distance 'available' and the hose was too long.

Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2010 7:54 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 gas cap & filler assembly


> On Sunday, October 31, 2010 09:58:32 pm Angelo Graham wrote:

>> tight fit. Any tips on making the re-install easier?
> Angelo,
>
> The large hex nut does go below the deck and the cap + chrome ring go 
> above.
> As you might of guessed the cap is screwed into the hex nut.
> It is a tight fit to get the hose on the tank and the hex nut at the same
> time.
>
> I believe the last time I did this the tank was not tightened down so I 
> had
> some wiggle room. I believe I attached the hose to the hex nut/spigot 
> first
> and then eased the hose over the take inlet.
>
> Dont forget to install the clamps very loose before you put the hose on!
>
> In order to orientate the gas cap correctly, make sure you screw the cap
> tight, align, and then tighten the hose clamps.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Nov  1 08:24:19 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 09:24:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Your LiteZupp replacement will be in the mail today!
References: <AANLkTike1Gjsk4-KC074Lgf3zrcM8ovU5jwLkjkWv_Kw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <91619030-A831-49BA-B272-757953A4A5D8@comcast.net>

List thanks for all the suggestions on my cruise control/tail light  
issue with the LiteZupp LEDs.  I was just running through the checking  
ground, checking the old lights, scenarios when I got this message  
(below) from Chris Reyher at LiteZupp.

They were aware of the issue and are sending re-circuited LEDs that  
correct the problem.

I want them to get credit for their quick response and resolving the  
issue since I'd posted to the list about the problem.

I would certainly buy from them again if the opportunity arises as  
their LEDs are the type of quality you can see and feel when you look  
at them and hold them in your hand.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




Begin forwarded message:

> From: Chris Reyher <chris at reyher.com>
> Date: November 1, 2010 8:32:44 AM MDT
> To: Bud Rolofsan <levilevi at comcast.net>
> Subject: Your LiteZupp replacement will be in the mail today!
>
> Good morning Bud!
>
> We are very sorry that you experienced trouble with your lights. We  
> are aware of the problem and have seen it other cars, but never in  
> the Triumphs.
> We changed the circuitry to fix the issue a while back, and thought  
> we had the "old" lamps isolated, but obviously that pair slipped  
> through the cracks. It's just our dumb luck that your car
> is equipped with cruise control!
>
> Your replacement lamps are on the way. You are welcome to keep the  
> original pair you purchased. Just don't put them on a car with  
> cruise control.
>
> Thank you very much for your business. Your complete satisfaction is  
> important to us.
>
> Best regards!
>
> Chris Reyher
> Jim Thompson
> LiteZupp Industries, LLC
> 214-202-0244

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Nov  1 08:26:25 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 09:26:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Your LiteZupp replacement will be in the mail today!
References: <91619030-A831-49BA-B272-757953A4A5D8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <826840B3-996F-4A5A-BD03-8C44EB164D3F@comcast.net>

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
> Date: November 1, 2010 9:24:19 AM MDT
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc: Chris Reyher <chris at reyher.com>
> Subject: Fwd: Your LiteZupp replacement will be in the mail today!
>
> List thanks for all the suggestions on my cruise control/tail light  
> issue with the LiteZupp LEDs.  I was just running through the  
> checking ground, checking the old lights, scenarios when I got this  
> message (below) from Chris Reyher at LiteZupp.
>
> They were aware of the issue and are sending re-circuited LEDs that  
> correct the problem.
>
> I want them to get credit for their quick response and resolving the  
> issue since I'd posted to the list about the problem.
>
> I would certainly buy from them again if the opportunity arises as  
> their LEDs are the type of quality you can see and feel when you  
> look at them and hold them in your hand.
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>> From: Chris Reyher <chris at reyher.com>
>> Date: November 1, 2010 8:32:44 AM MDT
>> To: Bud Rolofsan <levilevi at comcast.net>
>> Subject: Your LiteZupp replacement will be in the mail today!
>>
>> Good morning Bud!
>>
>> We are very sorry that you experienced trouble with your lights. We  
>> are aware of the problem and have seen it other cars, but never in  
>> the Triumphs.
>> We changed the circuitry to fix the issue a while back, and thought  
>> we had the "old" lamps isolated, but obviously that pair slipped  
>> through the cracks. It's just our dumb luck that your car
>> is equipped with cruise control!
>>
>> Your replacement lamps are on the way. You are welcome to keep the  
>> original pair you purchased. Just don't put them on a car with  
>> cruise control.
>>
>> Thank you very much for your business. Your complete satisfaction  
>> is important to us.
>>
>> Best regards!
>>
>> Chris Reyher
>> Jim Thompson
>> LiteZupp Industries, LLC
>> 214-202-0244

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Nov  1 08:54:22 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2010 08:54:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers?
In-Reply-To: <E1PCiTe-00068r-Be@davesource.com>
References: <52878.38377.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<E1PCiTe-00068r-Be@davesource.com>
Message-ID: <4CCEE2AE.9@gmail.com>

> Bill says:
>> How many listers have their sidescreen TR's as their only car

Sorry but I'm only half way there depending upon weather, my mood and 
what I might be wanting to carry.

I have 2 daily drivers.  My 1961 TR3 and my 1960 Land Rover.  Obviously 
I prefer the Land Rover when it is snowing or below freezing and my TR 
in more pleasant weather or when I want to carry something bulky.

Teriann

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Nov  1 09:16:55 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 11:16:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door Draught Excluders
In-Reply-To: <539498.79370.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <539498.79370.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7FF6A9CF-ECAA-4E01-843F-D51C4D0FCDE3@flash.net>

I just put them on the leading and trailing edges.  Then the side panels go
over the flat fabric portion.

Be sure to cut back the rubber inside about 1/2" so you can tuck the fuzzy
fabric into the hole to finish it off.

Mobile Bill

On Oct 31, 2010, at 11:43 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

>     I recently purchased the fuzzy door seals from TRF that are the draft or
draught excluders. They have a cross section like a tadpole. Do they go all
the way around the door? I think that they might just go on the door's leading
edge. How are they attached? It looks like I just glue them on the inside of
the cockpit around the door, but I want to know what others have done.
>     I am amazed at how much more I enjoy the TR with the windshield sealed
up and a working heater. I was dying in it last year.
>
>     -Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Nov  1 09:21:50 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 11:21:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 gas cap & filler assembly
In-Reply-To: <201011010754.06795.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <4CCE1EC8.2070004@execulink.com>
	<201011010754.06795.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <E36CEB72-414E-4A13-9ACB-8051AB477885@flash.net>

Angelo,
Hope you have a new rubber sleeve, even if the old one is still good the extra
little bit of pliablity sure makes a difference when you are trying to get it
on.

Mobile Bill

On Nov 1, 2010, at 6:54 AM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> On Sunday, October 31, 2010 09:58:32 pm Angelo Graham wrote:
>> Hello List:
>> Guess I wasn't paying close attention when removing the gas tank &
>> filler combination and now trying to re-install. Can anyone review the
>> order of the pieces? Does the hex nut/spigot combo go below the rear
>> deck into the rubber sleeve and the cap screw on from above the deck?
>> Forms a sort of a sandwich - the hex nut & spigot below the deck and the
>> cap & small chrome washer above the deck? Do I have this right. A really
>> tight fit. Any tips on making the re-install easier?
>> Thanks for any help with this. Feel really dumb...
>> Angelo Graham
>>
>
> Angelo,
>
> The large hex nut does go below the deck and the cap + chrome ring go above.
> As you might of guessed the cap is screwed into the hex nut.
> It is a tight fit to get the hose on the tank and the hex nut at the same
> time.
>
> I believe the last time I did this the tank was not tightened down so I had
> some wiggle room. I believe I attached the hose to the hex nut/spigot first
> and then eased the hose over the take inlet.
>
> Dont forget to install the clamps very loose before you put the hose on!
>
> In order to orientate the gas cap correctly, make sure you screw the cap
> tight, align, and then tighten the hose clamps.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov  1 10:10:28 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 10:10:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pertinox Wiring and General Comment
In-Reply-To: <006a01cb796d$9ebc0730$dc341590$@net>
References: <828842183.522409.1288554797171.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>,
	<434423159.522435.1288554827577.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<COL119-W512B8DAFFCF4D0044CE0CA5470@phx.gbl>
	<006a01cb796d$9ebc0730$dc341590$@net>
Message-ID: <04dd01cb79e7$af2cb4a0$0d861de0$@rr.com>

> I discovered that the poles on my (Lucas)
> coil
> are not labeled + and -, they are labeled BAT and DIST. Wot now,

Interesting.  Are you sure it wasn't "CB" and "SW"?

There is an old-time test for coil polarity: With the engine running, hold
the plug wire a bit away from the plug terminal (or any ground) and the tip
of a (sharpened) ordinary "lead" pencil in the gap.  If you look closely,
you should be able to see that the spark is brighter to one side of the
pencil tip.  If that side is towards the plug/ground, the spark polarity is
correct.

There is a better write-up (and another method) at
(Warning MG content <G>)
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov  1 10:23:14 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 10:23:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation
In-Reply-To: <E1PCiWf-0006HW-SM@davesource.com>
References: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB2899@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<E1PCiWf-0006HW-SM@davesource.com>
Message-ID: <04e401cb79e9$77c214e0$67463ea0$@rr.com>

> I have an
> email address that is *only* used for this mailing list, and that's
> the one they sent the spam to, so it's clear they got it from the
> list.  

However, that only shows that they got _your_ address from the archives.
It's entirely possible that they used more than one source and so got
someone else's address through another means.

That said, I find it hard to believe that Moss would deliberately share
customer information with their competitors (or even resellers).  If the
information did come through Moss, it must have been inadvertent, like
perhaps disclosed on their web forum (does it have archives?) or some sort
of e-breakin.  

ISTR several cases where members of this list got infected by a virus, which
likely means some spammer got every address in their address book, in-box,
etc.

Also worth considering, perhaps, that the actual vendor may not have
understood they were becoming spammers.  There are lots of persuasive
advertisements floating around in business magazines, to the effect of "Let
us help you reach millions of potential customers".  MailChimp.com is
actually the guilty party here.

Of course, whether ignorance is an excuse or not is a different issue.

-- Randall 

From akgraves at cox.net  Mon Nov  1 10:50:05 2010
From: akgraves at cox.net (akgraves at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 13:50:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <20101101135005.7OFF7.1707888.imail@eastrmwml40>

I'm chiming in a little late.  Regarding the driving requirement, if Concours is as if the car just came off the showroom floor, then all mechanicals would be in perfect condition.  Judges do not check this (with the possible exception of lights), so the driving requirement essentially verifies the mechanicals.


Art Graves
1976 Triumph TR6
Tulsa, OK

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Nov  1 11:31:11 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 11:31:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR & Driving Requirements
In-Reply-To: <20101101135005.7OFF7.1707888.imail@eastrmwml40>
References: <20101101135005.7OFF7.1707888.imail@eastrmwml40>
Message-ID: <a06240800c8f4b52c88e9@[192.168.2.3]>

I know the system is different, but in SCCA Judged Concours 
everything on the car must be in working order.  The Judges ask 
AnnaBelle to start the engine, turn on the lights, high and low beam, 
select the turn signals, stop and brake lights, the gauges are 
checked for functioning, if there is a radio installed it must work, 
the spare wheel is inspected and must be the same as those mounted on 
the car, including the tire itself.  To get everything perfect and 
therefore have a 100 point car is nigh onto impossible. These shows 
(including Pebble Beach) have a driving tour as part of the program, 
you do not get "extra" points, but if there is a tie the driven car 
will win.

I suspect you will never be rid of "trailer queens", and that should 
be OK, it is THEIR Car, and if the choose not to drive ... so be it 
... but make it clear that in the event of a tie, the driven car will 
get the nod ...

>I'm chiming in a little late.  Regarding the driving requirement, if 
>Concours is as if the car just came off the showroom floor, then all 
>mechanicals would be in perfect condition.  Judges do not check this 
>(with the possible exception of lights), so the driving requirement 
>essentially verifies the mechanicals.
>
>
>Art Graves
>1976 Triumph TR6
>Tulsa, OK

-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Nov  1 12:46:53 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2010 14:46:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <309663050.171288.1288640813333.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Nov  1 13:13:53 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2010 15:13:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <125507237.173498.1288642433235.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

Try this again in plain text. 

Except for the added time to inspect everything - I like this approach.   I know of a couple cars that have heaters mounted that don't work.  They look good and would pass 'visual inspection' but would not qualify 'as from the showroom'.
 
and driving events could be 1 point each with a maximum of however many events there might be.  The next question would be whether one driving event has 'priority' over another.  (presented in no particular order)
1) Driven to the meet
2) Funkhana
3) Autocross
4) TSD
5) Fun Drives  * 'X'
6) LeMans Start
7) To the show field (mandatory)
etc etc
 
 
Nov 1, 2010 06:43:38 PM, anabil007 at comcast.net wrote:

I know the system is different, but in SCCA Judged Concours 
everything on the car must be in working order. The Judges ask 
AnnaBelle to start the engine, turn on the lights, high and low beam, 
select the turn signals, stop and brake lights, the gauges are 
checked for functioning, if there is a radio installed it must work, 
the spare wheel is inspected and must be the same as those mounted on 
the car, including the tire itself. To get everything perfect and 
therefore have a 100 point car is nigh onto impossible. These shows 
(including Pebble Beach) have a driving tour as part of the program, 
you do not get "extra" points, but if there is a tie the driven car 
will win.

I suspect you will never be rid of "trailer queens", and that should 
be OK, it is THEIR Car, and if the choose not to drive ... so be it 
... but make it clear that in the event of a tie, the driven car will 
get the nod ...

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Mon Nov  1 13:37:27 2010
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 16:37:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers?
Message-ID: <42fc4.440984b0.3a007f07@aol.com>

My TR3A is my only car/daily driver now - rain, snow or sun. I do  have a 
4X4 truck for the bad snow. How many listers have their sidescreen TR's  as 
their only car for driving to  work?

-Bill in  Tehachapi
 
I can't even fathom using a side screen car anywhere north of  Atlanta!  
The heater on the 2 works very well but has not been tested  anywhere under 
say 50 degrees.  Many of our winter garage queens spent  their early life as 
daily drivers but I get a chill just thinking about  it.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
TRA in Fort Wayne, Indiana in 2011

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov  1 14:05:39 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 14:05:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers?
In-Reply-To: <42fc4.440984b0.3a007f07@aol.com>
References: <42fc4.440984b0.3a007f07@aol.com>
Message-ID: <052b01cb7a08$8a2f3df0$9e8db9d0$@rr.com>

> I can't even fathom using a side screen car anywhere north of  Atlanta!

It's been a lot of years ago, but I used to use a TR3A as my daily driver,
even in the winter, when I lived about 150 miles SW of you, Lou.

And yes, the heater was not particularly effective, even after I "hot
rodded" it by rewinding the motor.  I actually started a second round of
modifications, using a blower motor from a Dodge heater and some really
aggressive fan blades, but lost interest after I moved to CA.  I do still
occasionally drive in freezing weather, but not often enough to worry about.
And I deal with it the old fashioned way, with a leather coat & driving
gloves, plus a woolen lap robe if it's really cold.

Which reminds me, I need new gloves.  Anyone bought a pair of leather palm
driving gloves (preferably with Gore-Tex backs) recently that they liked?  I
got my last pair at a local motorcycle shop (had to cut the garish logo off
of them), but they don't stock that brand any more.

-- Randall 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Nov  1 14:31:47 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 17:31:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <5b0f6.1223a2b1.3a008bc3@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/1/2010 1:13:40 PM Central Daylight Time, 
akgraves at cox.net writes: 
> I'm chiming in a little late.  Regarding the driving requirement, if 
> Concours is as if the car just came off the showroom floor, then all 
> mechanicals would be in perfect condition.  Judges do not check this (with the 
> possible exception of lights), so the driving requirement essentially verifies 
> the mechanicals.
> 
The thread that wouldn't die.

This is a good point.  But it only verifies that the stuff works.  There is 
no evaluation that it works well.  In a perfect world the cars should be 
evaluated on how well the DRIVE, too.  If a car has brakes, fine.  But how 
well do they work?  How do they feel?  Do they squeal?  Is the steering tight 
or vague?  Does the seat support the driver/passenger in a comfortable manner 
or so they just look nice like the seats at Denny's but are not suitable 
for long term habitation?  How dies the exhaust sound.

These (and many others) are all critical to driving experience.  But these 
are not evaluated.  We only have a few minutes per car to evaluate them and 
we gotta draw the line somewhere.  Remember, the cars are judged AT NO EXTRA 
CHARGE to the attendee.

And it's all for fun after all.  There are professional concours judges and 
they charge good money for their services.  We are volunteers and we do it 
to add a dimension to the convention experience.  The awards given out are 
worth a few bucks.  There is no cash prizes involved.  So we give then a 
quick visual check and pick our favourites.

But a contest I think would be kind of neat is an exhaust note contest.  We 
set up a panel of judges on a stretch of straight road and the cars drive 
by and points are awarded for the exhaust note.  Purely subjective but with 
enough judges we can get a good consensus.

Just a thought.

Dave

From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Nov  1 14:52:49 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 21:52:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
In-Reply-To: <5b0f6.1223a2b1.3a008bc3@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1893310056.654803.1288648369101.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Dave, I agree with you.B  Maybe the brewmasters judging could go along with
the exhaust note contest.

We the judges would be sharing each others beers while the contestants drive
by. Actually, they could

bring us beers. This is getting to be the best idea yet.

Tom



But a contest I think would be kind of neat is an exhaust note contest. B We
set up a panel of judges on a stretch of straight road and the cars drive
by and points are awarded for the exhaust note. B Purely subjective but with
enough judges we can get a good consensus.

Just a thought.

Dave

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Nov  1 15:29:16 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 15:29:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
In-Reply-To: <1893310056.654803.1288648369101.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <5b0f6.1223a2b1.3a008bc3@cs.com>
	<1893310056.654803.1288648369101.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <41631E96996B43ED8DD653C9BAE68BC8@Vista>

Or maybe the judges should all be required to drink copious amounts of the
brew just before the concours.

Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tfansher at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2010 2:53 PM
To: Dave1massey at cs.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements

Dave, I agree with you.B  Maybe the brewmasters judging could go along with
the exhaust note contest.

We the judges would be sharing each others beers while the contestants drive
by. Actually, they could

bring us beers. This is getting to be the best idea yet.

Tom

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Nov  1 15:45:24 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 18:45:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <31e26.2fa212e7.3a009d04@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/1/2010 4:52:48 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tfansher at comcast.net writes: 
> Dave, I agree with you.  Maybe the brewmasters judging could go along 
> with the exhaust note contest.
> 
>  We the judges would be sharing each others beers while the contestants 
> drive by. Actually, they could
> 
>  bring us beers. This is getting to be the best idea yet.
> 
>  Tom

We'll call it the Tom & Dave Beer Run!

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Nov  1 15:58:29 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 17:58:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers?
In-Reply-To: <052b01cb7a08$8a2f3df0$9e8db9d0$@rr.com>
References: <42fc4.440984b0.3a007f07@aol.com>
	<052b01cb7a08$8a2f3df0$9e8db9d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <2A8693B628114050BDBAEF9ED3FD5F59@ranteer.local>

?
to me, driving gloves are part of the vintage car experience.  but I'm also 
cheap.

I have discovered that buying a matching pair of golf gloves fits the bill. 
they should be on sale this time of year, too!

and don't buy the really cheap ones - they don't hold up at all!

> Which reminds me, I need new gloves.  Anyone bought a pair of leather palm
> driving gloves (preferably with Gore-Tex backs) recently that they liked? 
> I
> got my last pair at a local motorcycle shop (had to cut the garish logo 
> off
> of them), but they don't stock that brand any more.
>
> -- Randall 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Nov  1 16:07:34 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2010 19:07:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] How many sidescreen TRs...
Message-ID: <4CCF0FF6.25120.24D54F42@localhost>

...does it take to change a lightbulb?

I have no idea.  Sorry if this has been discussed already.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Nov  1 16:24:43 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 18:24:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Defrosters
In-Reply-To: <636041.96329.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <636041.96329.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W55F204DF64E4E94B249B8BE1480@phx.gbl>

Bill in Tehachapi wrote:
I replaced the stock TR ribbed defroster duct hose with a smoother bore
flexible aluminum duct hose from McMaster Carr and it flows much better.

I wonder if there would be a marked impovement with the smooth bore and the
original heater?

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Nov  1 17:12:37 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 00:12:37 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] VTR @ Jekyll Island = Awards
Message-ID: <17130.11851.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Just so I can keep up with proceedings from the far side of the pond, can
anyone 
tell me who won the CMDA award this year and does anyone have pix of
the car? 
Replies (if any) off list please.

Jonmac

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon Nov  1 16:27:21 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 19:27:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation
References: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB2899@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net><E1PCiWf-0006HW-SM@davesource.com>
	<04e401cb79e9$77c214e0$67463ea0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <85965BD2293B4A73B2BB758EEBCA84CD@userb38463fba5>

My thought when I suggested that it could be Moss was that Moss owned this 
company and for whatever reason they don't use the Moss name on this 
Canadian location. Purely speculation on my part and no idea why they would 
want to do that other than having acquired a company that had good Canadian 
name recognition. Perhaps someone from the Quebec Providence can shed some 
light on the Company. Besides why would anyone in the States want to buy 
from a Canadian outlet and have to deal with currency exchange and cross 
border duties when we have excellent sources in the States. I know someone 
will come up with some obscure reason just to prove me wrong but being 
practical I can't think of any good reason.

Don are you out there?

JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2010 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Vendor Solicitation


>
> However, that only shows that they got _your_ address from the archives.
> It's entirely possible that they used more than one source and so got
> someone else's address through another means.
>
> That said, I find it hard to believe that Moss would deliberately share
> customer information with their competitors (or even resellers).  If the
> information did come through Moss, it must have been inadvertent, like
> perhaps disclosed on their web forum (does it have archives?) or some sort
> of e-breakin.
>
> ISTR several cases where members of this list got infected by a virus, 
> which
> likely means some spammer got every address in their address book, in-box,
> etc.
>
> Also worth considering, perhaps, that the actual vendor may not have
> understood they were becoming spammers.  There are lots of persuasive
> advertisements floating around in business magazines, to the effect of 
> "Let
> us help you reach millions of potential customers".  MailChimp.com is
> actually the guilty party here.
>
> Of course, whether ignorance is an excuse or not is a different issue.
>
> -- Randall

From mmarr at notwires.com  Mon Nov  1 13:30:35 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 15:30:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers?
References: <52878.38377.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><E1PCiTe-00068r-Be@davesource.com>
	<4CCEE2AE.9@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <60138897F95C437C941B78B5794BAFC9@trigeni.com>

When I was doing a little home remodeling a few years ago, when I was 
between pick-up trucks, I used my 3A for hauling 2X4s.  I could fit a couple 
of dozen 8 footers in the passenger side and only have a couple of feet 
overlapping the seat back.

Mike

> I prefer the Land Rover when it is snowing or below freezing and my TR in 
> more pleasant weather or when I want to carry something bulky.
>
> Teriann

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Nov  1 20:27:59 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 22:27:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily  Drivers?
In-Reply-To: <2A8693B628114050BDBAEF9ED3FD5F59@ranteer.local>
References: <42fc4.440984b0.3a007f07@aol.com>
	<052b01cb7a08$8a2f3df0$9e8db9d0$@rr.com>
	<2A8693B628114050BDBAEF9ED3FD5F59@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <C8B23E20-4F23-47E8-9327-BE513BA9DF7B@flash.net>

I found a pair of Nike football gloves, I suppose what a receiver would wear,
at Ross for about $12.00.   Makes it a lot easier with stock steering on the
TR3 when you have a good non- slip palm.

Mobile Bill

On Nov 1, 2010, at 5:58 PM, "dave" <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> ?
> to me, driving gloves are part of the vintage car experience.  but I'm also
cheap.
>
> I have discovered that buying a matching pair of golf gloves fits the bill.
they should be on sale this time of year, too!
>
> and don't buy the really cheap ones - they don't hold up at all!
>
>> Which reminds me, I need new gloves.  Anyone bought a pair of leather palm
>> driving gloves (preferably with Gore-Tex backs) recently that they liked?
I
>> got my last pair at a local motorcycle shop (had to cut the garish logo
off
>> of them), but they don't stock that brand any more.
>>
>> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From team.net at daveola.com  Mon Nov  1 20:36:00 2010
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2010 20:36:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation
In-Reply-To: <04e401cb79e9$77c214e0$67463ea0$@rr.com>
References: <04e401cb79e9$77c214e0$67463ea0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <E1PD7hq-0008Uh-5s@davesource.com>

Randall says:
> However, that only shows that they got _your_ address from the archives.
...
> That said, I find it hard to believe that Moss would deliberately share

Not only do I agree, I can put the Moss issue to rest, I did *not* 
receive the solicitation at the email address I use for Moss Motors.  
The *only* version of the solicitation I received was from the 
address I use solely for this list and nothing else.

Anyways, regardless of where they email address came from, they are 
spammers at this point, and off my books.

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
-- It is a good idea.  Unfortunately, it is a new idea, and therefore we --
   fear it.  And so, it must be discarded -Lothar of the Hill People, SNL

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Nov  2 07:40:19 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 10:40:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <7a0a.37875353.3a017cd2@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/1/2010 5:45:06 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:

The thread that wouldn't die.



This is giving me an idea.  If we want to stop the cars as they  come onto 
the show field for a picture for the banquet PP presentation, why  not have 
a few judges there to quickly check all the running lights,  horn, etc and 
even listen to the state of tune?  
Darrell
I once had a Canadian judge check my oil level in the sump  and carburetor 
dash pots!!!!!!  The TR8 was parked on a  slope going the wrong way and I 
was deducted for low oil in the  sump!!!!!

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Tue Nov  2 10:04:52 2010
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 13:04:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Vendor Solicitation
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11624.1288668424.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11624.1288668424.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7D883E78-04F8-4A36-A211-9184CCA8DD93@execulink.com>

Jerry Wrote:

My thought when I suggested that it could be Moss was that Moss owned this
company and for whatever reason they don't use the Moss name on this
Canadian location. Purely speculation on my part and no idea why they would
want to do that other than having acquired a company that had good Canadian
name recognition. Perhaps someone from the Quebec Providence can shed some
light on the Company. Besides why would anyone in the States want to buy
from a Canadian outlet and have to deal with currency exchange and cross
border duties when we have excellent sources in the States. I know someone
will come up with some obscure reason just to prove me wrong but being
practical I can't think of any good reason.

Don are you out there?

JVV

++++++++++

Interestingly enough, even though it is a Canadian Company just northeast of
Montreal, in their statement about Foreign sales, they state in parenthesis
"including Canada". So in whatever form they do business, they see Canadian
sales as being foreign.

On a totally different note, they certainly are getting a great deal of
publicity on this list - but so far not much in the way of sales. :-)

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Tue Nov  2 10:09:06 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Tue, 02 Nov 2010 13:09:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <000001cb7ab0$a88d33d0$f9a79b70$@net>

Dave wrote:

>Remember, the cars are judged AT NO EXTRA CHARGE to the attendee.

 

   I remember seeing a registration form for an Austin Healey event (don't
remember 

if it was a Regional or National one) but there was a significant extra
charge ($50?) to 

enter your car in the Concours.  Do they pay their judges?

 

Dennis Culligan/  Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov  2 10:34:11 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 13:34:11 EDT
Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <8cd18.51cde421.3a01a593@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/2/2010 9:40:20 AM Central Daylight Time, 
TR250Driver at aol.com writes: 
> 
> >> I once had a Canadian judge check my oil level in the sump and 
>> carburetor dash pots!!!!!!  The TR8 was parked on a slope going the wrong way and 
>> I was deducted for low oil in the sump!!!!!
>>  
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
Did he check for Neil Diamond tapes in the player?

Dave

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Nov  2 10:52:22 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 02 Nov 2010 12:52:22 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <598594315.232660.1288720342712.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

That is an eight-track - correct?


Nov 2, 2010 05:46:46 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

In a message dated 11/2/2010 9:40:20 AM Central Daylight Time, 
TR250Driver at aol.com writes: 
 
Did he check for Neil Diamond tapes in the player?

Dave
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov  2 11:02:25 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 14:02:25 EDT
Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <8e9d6.3ec90987.3a01ac31@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/2/2010 12:19:46 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dctr6 at optonline.net writes: 
>    I remember seeing a registration form for an Austin Healey event 
> (don't
> remember 
> 
> if it was a Regional or National one) but there was a significant extra
> charge ($50?) to 
> 
> enter your car in the Concours.  Do they pay their judges?
> 
> 

$35 for the 2011 conclave ( http://tinyurl.com/2anmo8c  )

I don't know if they pay judges and how they are qualified but I know the 
folks who put on the conclave in St. Louis years back.  I'll ask unless 
someone else finds out first.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov  2 11:07:08 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 14:07:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] P/C @ VTR & Driving Requirements
Message-ID: <8eee2.711c26e4.3a01ad4c@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/2/2010 12:52:24 PM Central Daylight Time, 
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> That is an eight-track - correct?
> 
He did say TR8 so I guess that would be correct.  The four track is in the 
TR250.

If no Neil Diamond, Gordon Lightfoot will do.


Dave "In the wake of the Edmund Fitzgerald..."

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Nov  2 11:54:19 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 11:54:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] water pump Tr3
Message-ID: <964839.89108.qm@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

who has the best hi performance water pump for the TR3?
who has lowest cost for standard water pump TR3?
any one still make rebuild kits?

so many questions
Frank

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Nov  2 13:10:53 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 13:10:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] water pump Tr3
In-Reply-To: <964839.89108.qm@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <964839.89108.qm@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <374412.47846.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

is there a significant noticeable difference in the high performance water
pumps?
are they worth the up-charge?
Frank
________________________________
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, November 2, 2010 11:54:19 AM
Subject: [TR]
water pump Tr3

who has the best hi performance water pump for the TR3?
who
has lowest cost for standard water pump TR3?
any one still make rebuild kits?
so many questions
Frank
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Tue Nov  2 13:59:33 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 16:59:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] water pump Tr3
Message-ID: <9bb45.71983d50.3a01d5b5@aol.com>

I recently fitted the uprated water pump from British Parts Northwest. Some 
 listers suggested it has better performance than the one that Moss offers, 
but I  can't really confirm nor contradict that.
 
Certainly, but car's cooling is much better now, in fact the thing won't  
warm up! I can't say it's all the water pump's fault, though, because I also  
fitted a thicker radiator core with no starting handle hole, as well as the 
Moss  TR6 fan conversion kit. I think the reason it won't warm up is that 
I've only  driven the car, with the mods done, in cooler autumn temperatures 
and also my  car hasn't had a thermostat since long before I owned it, which 
I will now  correct.
 
Regardless, to reiterate I can say the British Parts Northwest uprated pump 
 is highly recommended.
 
Tim

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Nov  2 14:43:43 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 02 Nov 2010 16:43:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?water_pump_Tr3?=
Message-ID: <20101102214254.CE42B187644@autox.team.net>

With no t stat it won't ever warm up in cool weather.
Is there anyone out there with ONLY the pump replaced with a HD unit, and everything else left as was?                 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com
Date: Tue, Nov 2, 2010 15:59
Subject: [TR] water pump Tr3
To: <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>


I recently fitted the uprated water pump from British Parts Northwest. Some 
 listers suggested it has better performance than the one that Moss offers, 
but I  can't really confirm nor contradict that.
 
Certainly, but car's cooling is much better now, in fact the thing won't  
warm up! I can't say it's all the water pump's fault, though, because I also  
fitted a thicker radiator core with no starting handle hole, as well as the 
Moss  TR6 fan conversion kit. I think the reason it won't warm up is that 
I've only  driven the car, with the mods done, in cooler autumn temperatures 
and also my  car hasn't had a thermostat since long before I owned it, which 
I will now  correct.
 
Regardless, to reiterate I can say the British Parts Northwest uprated pump 
 is highly recommended.
 
Tim
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Nov  2 14:54:21 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 14:54:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re: How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers?
In-Reply-To: <2A8693B628114050BDBAEF9ED3FD5F59@ranteer.local>
References: <42fc4.440984b0.3a007f07@aol.com>
	<052b01cb7a08$8a2f3df0$9e8db9d0$@rr.com>
	<2A8693B628114050BDBAEF9ED3FD5F59@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikWwcT8g=pz-S6uFCr=gN=XWxOe1+Hm1B1uzJFz@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/1/10, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>
> to me, driving gloves are part of the vintage car experience.  but I'm also
> cheap.

Rock climbing gloves and ice fishing gloves are what I use.  The
latter (Kenai brand) are pretty warm despite the open finger tips.

Those open finger tips look so British -- rather like a Cockney Cabby
or someone from the chorus in My Fair Lady.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Nov  2 14:58:59 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 14:58:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] water pump Tr3
In-Reply-To: <374412.47846.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <964839.89108.qm@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<374412.47846.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinJVw3QsXD+qvXFYpUiR=sL5BbzgirvqWgZe0h3@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/2/10, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> is there a significant noticeable difference in the high performance water
> pumps?

FWIW -- not all stock pumps are created equal.  I have seen (and used)
some where the vanes are much shallower than were on the original
pumps and the repros seemed likely to move less coolant.

There is, of course, an ongoing debate on whether more is better where
coolant flow is concerned.

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Nov  2 15:07:56 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 22:07:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers?
In-Reply-To: <4CCEE2AE.9@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <537538736.650172.1288735676695.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

> Bill says:
>> How many listers have their sidescreen TR's as their only car

Snow free to snowfall, but not in the rain, here in NH.  '59 TR3A.

Terry Smith

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Nov  2 15:12:40 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 22:12:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers?
In-Reply-To: <052b01cb7a08$8a2f3df0$9e8db9d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <2048095111.650514.1288735960372.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Which reminds me, I need new gloves.  Anyone bought a pair of leather palm
>driving gloves (preferably with Gore-Tex backs) recently that they liked?  I
>got my last pair at a local motorcycle shop (had to cut the garish logo off
>of them), but they don't stock that brand any more.

People at work think I'm crazy.  Gortex head and ear cover.  Face shield.  LL Bean windproof fleece zip up over a fleece vest, atop which is the LL Bean Gortex Winter coat.

Randall, got my gloves at LL Bean.  $25, Thinsulate, but not Gortex.  Work okay in 40 degree mornings but am unsure about them as we get closer to Thanksgiving.  

Top Down til snowfall.  I remind people when they shake their heads as I pull into the parking garage,  "Uhm, do you ski?"

Terry Smith
'59 TR3A  New Hampshire

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov  2 15:42:22 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 15:42:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] water pump Tr3
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinJVw3QsXD+qvXFYpUiR=sL5BbzgirvqWgZe0h3@mail.gmail.com>
References: <964839.89108.qm@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<374412.47846.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTinJVw3QsXD+qvXFYpUiR=sL5BbzgirvqWgZe0h3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <062801cb7adf$37e56fb0$a7b04f10$@rr.com>

> FWIW -- not all stock pumps are created equal.  I have seen (and used)
> some where the vanes are much shallower than were on the original
> pumps and the repros seemed likely to move less coolant.

I've even got some shots of the difference at home.  Eventually, I hope to
get them posted to my Photobucket site.

As I wrote Frank off-list, my project TR3 has been running hot.  Two weeks
ago now, I swapped out what appeared to be the original pump (with the 4
deeper vanes) for a "high performance" 6-vane pump from BFE.  No other
changes, except for yet another back flush and fresh coolant.  Can't tell
that it made any difference at all.

I think cooling problems follow the old chain analogy: the system is only as
strong as its weakest link.  That means improving one of the stronger links
does no good at all.  So my experience only shows that my problem is not a
shortcoming of the water pump (which is kind of what I expected).

-- Randall 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue Nov  2 16:05:19 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 16:05:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Idle stumble
Message-ID: <a06240804c8f64750c8ef@[192.168.2.3]>

	New information for an old subject, we have had the TR6 idle 
stumble recently, after listening and consulting, I sprayed a 
volatile liquid (green approved of course) along the intake ports of 
the manifold, and sure enough there was a speed up at #6 cylinder. 
Ordered the competition manifold gasket, our TR6 has the "early" 
engine, head.  Inspecting the intake manifold I noticed it did not 
seem all that straight, was told early intakes had casting problems. 
Off to our favorite machine shop where my suspicions were confirmed, 
and we had the intake manifold milled, there is now a Significant 
difference in the surface.  I am looking forward to re-assembly and 
am fairly confident there will be no idle "stumble" ... will keep you 
posted.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1970 TR6
"Rosey"
Wallace, CA

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov  2 23:04:56 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 23:04:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] water pump Tr3
In-Reply-To: <062801cb7adf$37e56fb0$a7b04f10$@rr.com>
References: <964839.89108.qm@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><374412.47846.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><AANLkTinJVw3QsXD+qvXFYpUiR=sL5BbzgirvqWgZe0h3@mail.gmail.com>
	<062801cb7adf$37e56fb0$a7b04f10$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <09e101cb7b1d$0a8e5840$0301a8c0@randall>

> > FWIW -- not all stock pumps are created equal.  I have seen 
> (and used)
> > some where the vanes are much shallower than were on the original
> > pumps and the repros seemed likely to move less coolant.

Here are some shots of what I believe to be an original pump with the brass
4 blade impeller; an aftermarket "stock" pump with a cast iron 4 blade
impeller (which BTW worked fine for many years in my "now wrecked" TR3A);
and a "high performance" pump with a 6 blade impeller (bought from BFE many
years ago):

http://tinyurl.com/38hwfxq

Randall

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Wed Nov  3 05:24:34 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 08:24:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bolt Grade
Message-ID: <D92A5E1838B24B3980D7F63E25FC840C@AlexPC>

Hi All,

Quick question on grading a British Bolt.

Need to know the US equivalent of a British bolt off of a London bus
restoration in progress. The bolt is off the drive shaft.

On the head of the bolt it reads: Richards S5060. A friend wants to replace
this bolt with a US equivalent and wants to make sure he has the right grade
bolt. He states that the bolt is a 7/16 x 20.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov  3 06:18:41 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 06:18:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bolt Grade
In-Reply-To: <D92A5E1838B24B3980D7F63E25FC840C@AlexPC>
References: <D92A5E1838B24B3980D7F63E25FC840C@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <09f401cb7b59$a26c3f60$0301a8c0@randall>

> A friend wants to replace
> this bolt with a US equivalent

I can't answer your question, Alex, just wanted to point out that there may
be more to that bolt than just grade.  For example, TR driveshaft bolts have
a particular diameter and length of unthreaded shank, and unusually short
threads.

IMO it's unlikely to be any stronger than SAE grade 5, but that's just a
guess.  One way to estimate it is to look at the torque spec.  Standard
torque for a grade 5 7/16-20 is 75 ft-lb.  If the specified torque is less
than 75, it's probably less than a Grade 5 bolt.

Randall

From guy at genfiniti.com  Wed Nov  3 07:50:41 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 09:50:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Hand brake button
Message-ID: <E9C7E0CE-E7E4-49C5-97D7-DA8C2D8476BC@genfiniti.com>

All,

Does anyone have a spare hand brake button lying around they would be willing
to part with?
If not, does anyone know the dimensions so I can fabricate my own?

I've got everything but that little button that goes on the end, and no
supplier either has one to sell, or is unwilling to part with just the
button.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Nov  3 08:00:18 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 11:00:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bolt Grade
In-Reply-To: <09f401cb7b59$a26c3f60$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <D92A5E1838B24B3980D7F63E25FC840C@AlexPC>
	<09f401cb7b59$a26c3f60$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <5344CDDA0278451E96434488F9F63061@BobPC>

And I believe that the unthreaded shank is precision ground which is why 
driveshaft and axle bolts cost more ($2 each) then standard bolts. They're 
also harder to find from suppliers other then the usual LBC sources.  I 
think Randall told me that many years ago!

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 9:18 AM
To: "'*Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bolt Grade

>> A friend wants to replace
>> this bolt with a US equivalent
>
> I can't answer your question, Alex, just wanted to point out that there 
> may
> be more to that bolt than just grade.  For example, TR driveshaft bolts 
> have
> a particular diameter and length of unthreaded shank, and unusually short
> threads.
>
> IMO it's unlikely to be any stronger than SAE grade 5, but that's just a
> guess.  One way to estimate it is to look at the torque spec.  Standard
> torque for a grade 5 7/16-20 is 75 ft-lb.  If the specified torque is less
> than 75, it's probably less than a Grade 5 bolt.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Wed Nov  3 13:33:08 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 15:33:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Water Pump
Message-ID: <3F5CC0ED-B5B1-43F3-ABB5-BE982B9D471C@ties2.net>

I installed one of the new design pumps this summer. My temp gauge  
stays right where it always did with the old pump. Don't see much  
difference.

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Wed Nov  3 14:51:56 2010
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 17:51:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Water Pump
Message-ID: <be161.4e61e1a8.3a03337b@aol.com>

I  installed one of the new design pumps this summer. My temp gauge   
stays right where it always did with the old pump. Don't see much   
difference.


Which confirms my long held belief that the so called high performance six  
vane water pumps for the TR2 through 4A engines is a total waste of time 
and  more importantly money!!  If you have overheating problems with any of  
those models the first place to correct is the radiator, followed by the  
radiator with a distant third the thermostat.  
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
TRA in Fort Wayne for 2011

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Nov  3 16:33:09 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 19:33:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Water Pump
References: <3F5CC0ED-B5B1-43F3-ABB5-BE982B9D471C@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <B7CB53C823F0401B954D1F768D6C9FB7@userb38463fba5>

Joe, you don't mention if you were trying to solve an overheating problem by 
installing the high volume pump. If you did not have an overheating problem 
and you still don't my guess is that your system is in good shape and your 
thermostat is working properly and keeping the operating temperature where 
it should be running. Where you may see an improvement is in situations 
where your temp might go up such as slow stop and go traffic and it's 
holding steady instead. If on the other hand you were trying to solve a high 
heat problem with the high volume pump and you still have the problem you 
need to look elsewhere such as the radiator itself. Or a bad thermostat.

Were you trying to solve a problem or did the high volume pump just seem 
like a good idea. Personally I do think it's a good idea if you need to 
replace a pump, why not go for something with greater volume for those 
really hot days when you are stuck in traffic.

JVV


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe DeMuth" <jdemuth at ties2.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 4:33 PM
Subject: [TR] Water Pump


>I installed one of the new design pumps this summer. My temp gauge  stays 
>right where it always did with the old pump. Don't see much  difference.

From john_finlayson at telus.net  Wed Nov  3 17:59:50 2010
From: john_finlayson at telus.net (John Finlayson)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 17:59:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bolt Grade
In-Reply-To: <5344CDDA0278451E96434488F9F63061@BobPC>
References: <D92A5E1838B24B3980D7F63E25FC840C@AlexPC><09f401cb7b59$a26c3f60$0301a8c0@randall>
	<5344CDDA0278451E96434488F9F63061@BobPC>
Message-ID: <20FDD049E6B747FEB284BAA06DAE4354@JohnPC>

The following website gives some insight into British bolt grades......

https://www.britishfasteners.com/forum/showthread.php?50-British-Strength-Rating-Codes

An R rated bolt is similar to a Grade 5 according to Curt, the author of the 
post on that site.

John Finlayson
'62 TR4



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>; "'*Triumphs List'" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Bolt Grade


> And I believe that the unthreaded shank is precision ground which is why 
> driveshaft and axle bolts cost more ($2 each) then standard bolts. They're 
> also harder to find from suppliers other then the usual LBC sources.  I 
> think Randall told me that many years ago!
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 9:18 AM
> To: "'*Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Bolt Grade
>
>>> A friend wants to replace
>>> this bolt with a US equivalent
>>
>> I can't answer your question, Alex, just wanted to point out that there 
>> may
>> be more to that bolt than just grade.  For example, TR driveshaft bolts 
>> have
>> a particular diameter and length of unthreaded shank, and unusually short
>> threads.
>>
>> IMO it's unlikely to be any stronger than SAE grade 5, but that's just a
>> guess.  One way to estimate it is to look at the torque spec.  Standard
>> torque for a grade 5 7/16-20 is 75 ft-lb.  If the specified torque is 
>> less
>> than 75, it's probably less than a Grade 5 bolt.
>>
>> Randall
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Manage your account: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john_finlayson at telus.net

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Nov  3 18:19:14 2010
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 20:19:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR 2011
Message-ID: <87DE76C4E3484CEA8C9B8AB486287657@0817C93C637E473>

Did I miss the announcement?  Was the 2011 convention scheduled?

Ken Gano

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Wed Nov  3 18:38:51 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 21:38:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bolt Grade
In-Reply-To: <20FDD049E6B747FEB284BAA06DAE4354@JohnPC>
References: <D92A5E1838B24B3980D7F63E25FC840C@AlexPC><09f401cb7b59$a26c3f60$0301a8c0@randall><5344CDDA0278451E96434488F9F63061@BobPC>
	<20FDD049E6B747FEB284BAA06DAE4354@JohnPC>
Message-ID: <6668F14DCB7E423890508E8DD46C54F4@AlexPC>

Thanks John.
Answered all the questions at hand.

Alex

PS Great information!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Finlayson" <john_finlayson at telus.net>
To: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; "Randall" 
<TR3driver at ca.rr.com>; "'*Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Bolt Grade


> The following website gives some insight into British bolt grades......
>
> https://www.britishfasteners.com/forum/showthread.php?50-British-Strength-Rating-Codes
>
> An R rated bolt is similar to a Grade 5 according to Curt, the author of 
> the post on that site.
>
> John Finlayson
> '62 TR4
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> To: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>; "'*Triumphs List'" 
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 8:00 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Bolt Grade
>
>
>> And I believe that the unthreaded shank is precision ground which is why 
>> driveshaft and axle bolts cost more ($2 each) then standard bolts. 
>> They're also harder to find from suppliers other then the usual LBC 
>> sources.  I think Randall told me that many years ago!
>>
>> Bob Danielson
>> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
>> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
>> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
>> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 9:18 AM
>> To: "'*Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Bolt Grade
>>
>>>> A friend wants to replace
>>>> this bolt with a US equivalent
>>>
>>> I can't answer your question, Alex, just wanted to point out that there 
>>> may
>>> be more to that bolt than just grade.  For example, TR driveshaft bolts 
>>> have
>>> a particular diameter and length of unthreaded shank, and unusually 
>>> short
>>> threads.
>>>
>>> IMO it's unlikely to be any stronger than SAE grade 5, but that's just a
>>> guess.  One way to estimate it is to look at the torque spec.  Standard
>>> torque for a grade 5 7/16-20 is 75 ft-lb.  If the specified torque is 
>>> less
>>> than 75, it's probably less than a Grade 5 bolt.
>>>
>>> Randall

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Nov  3 18:44:04 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 01:44:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] VTR 2011
In-Reply-To: <87DE76C4E3484CEA8C9B8AB486287657@0817C93C637E473>
References: <87DE76C4E3484CEA8C9B8AB486287657@0817C93C637E473>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB8128@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I don't know if it was announced or officially published yet but I recall in a
recent email from our friend Bud that he mentions:

Breckenridge, Colorado for NATC XXXIV and VTR 2011 on August 17-21

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ken Gano, home PC
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 9:19 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] VTR 2011

Did I miss the announcement?  Was the 2011 convention scheduled?

Ken Gano

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Nov  3 18:48:55 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 01:48:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] VTR 2011
In-Reply-To: <79534843.482647.1288835205560.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <980323207.482799.1288835335400.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: "Ken Gano, home PC" <triumphs at consolidated.net>
> Did I miss the announcement? B Was the 2011 convention scheduled?

Yes.

Triumph in the Rockies III VTR National Convention, Breckenridge CO, August
17-21 2011. B The host hotel will be the Beaver Run Resort in Breckenridge.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Nov  3 19:27:30 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 22:27:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Phone Contacts
Message-ID: <BLU156-w435BB15B2A64D7924D44FDBA4B0@phx.gbl>

My cell phone took a dump last night and all my contacts went south. I had
collected cell numbers from a bunch of my Triumph friends and would like to
get them back. If you had given me your cell number in the past would you mind
shooting me an email at trmarty at hotmail.com with your number so I can put it
back in my contacts?  Oh, buy the way.....BACK UP YOUR CONTACTS!

Thanks,
Marty Sukey

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Wed Nov  3 19:59:55 2010
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 22:59:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] VTR 2011
Message-ID: <194b2.34ab46c8.3a037bab@aol.com>

Yes - go here _http://www.rockymountaintr.org/_ 
(http://www.rockymountaintr.org/)  and  click thru to the event web site which is now taking shape 
almost daily
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 11/3/2010 10:08:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
pethier at comcast.net writes:

>  From: "Ken Gano, home PC" <triumphs at consolidated.net>
> Did I miss  the announcement? B Was the 2011 convention  scheduled?

Yes.

Triumph in the Rockies III VTR National  Convention, Breckenridge CO, August
17-21 2011. B The host hotel will be  the Beaver Run Resort in Breckenridge.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul  Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban  8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot]  net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Wed Nov  3 20:05:00 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2010 23:05:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Hand brake button
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1288810801.19491.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1288810801.19491.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4CD222DC.3040103@gmail.com>

I had the same problem and hunted around the furniture parts section of 
the local home supply stores and found a cap that's meant to go on a 
chair leg or similar that has worked OK.  Not perfect, but not 
noticeable either.  If you find a good source please post it.

Ben......


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300


On 11/3/2010 3:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 09:50:41 -0500
> From: "Guy D. Huggins"<guy at genfiniti.com>
> Subject: [TR] TR4A - Hand brake button
> To:triumphs at autox.team.net,RedRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com
> Message-ID:<E9C7E0CE-E7E4-49C5-97D7-DA8C2D8476BC at genfiniti.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> All,
>
> Does anyone have a spare hand brake button lying around they would be willing
> to part with?
> If not, does anyone know the dimensions so I can fabricate my own?
>
> I've got everything but that little button that goes on the end, and no
> supplier either has one to sell, or is unwilling to part with just the
> button.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO

From Catpusher at aol.com  Wed Nov  3 23:27:10 2010
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 02:27:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re:  How Many Sidescreen TR's Are Daily Drivers?
Message-ID: <45155.365f6d12.3a03ac3e@aol.com>

>From 1961 to 1970 my TR3 was my only car.  I lived in Boston, MA, and  
parts of Ohio. I used tire chains a number of times with standard wire  wheels. 
As rally history proves, TR3 are a blast to drive in the  snow.
 One time in a Ohio blizzard, when I had left the chains at home, and  the 
TR became High Centered, I cut my tow rope in half and laced it through  the 
rear wire wheels. Perhaps that is why I am still here!
 
btw, cleaning out the heater coils made a large difference, as did making a 
 truck-like muff to close off most of (adjustable) the grill and running 
the  temp well past normal.
Has anyone mentioned driving down a straight road with the left hand  
crossed through the steering wheel to get that hand to the heater?  Perhaps  not 
OSHA approved.
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 10/30/2010 10:26:29 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes:

Date:  Sat, 30 Oct 2010 15:43:47 -0700
From: "Randall"  <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] How Many Sidescreen TR's Are  Daily Drivers?
To: "'Triumphs'"  <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:  <06a601cb7883$eaa0d990$0301a8c0 at randall>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="us-ascii"

>      Is it okay to chain up a  TR3 with wire wheels?
> 

Should be fine, although it's been many  years since I tried it.  Make sure
they are tight, though, as  clearance to the rear fender brace is limited.
If they get just a little  bit loose, they are apt to take out that brace.
After initial installation,  drive 10 or 20 feet and tighten them; then 
drive
a few blocks and check  them again.

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Nov  4 07:01:11 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 14:01:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Phone Contacts
In-Reply-To: <1100172340.500281.1288879220133.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1568802092.500335.1288879271993.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Phil Ethier
44 West Robie Street
Saint Paul MN 55107
home 651-224-3105
office 651-283-8675
cell 651-283-8675
Sue's cell 651-366-1932

I have an iPhone and a Mac laptop.  Once in a while I plug the phone into the computer and they talk to each other.  Very convenient.

All I have in my phone for you is your email.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 3, 2010 9:27:30 PM
> Subject: [TR] Phone Contacts
> 
> My cell phone took a dump last night and all my contacts went south. I
> had
> collected cell numbers from a bunch of my Triumph friends and would
> like to
> get them back. If you had given me your cell number in the past would
> you mind
> shooting me an email at trmarty at hotmail.com with your number so I can
> put it
> back in my contacts?  Oh, buy the way.....BACK UP YOUR CONTACTS!
> 
> Thanks,
> Marty Sukey
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Thu Nov  4 13:43:39 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 15:43:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] New Water Pump
Message-ID: <D91D2969-A140-4C7B-B893-8FE7625D2F76@ties2.net>

I should have, perhaps, included more detail explaining my water pump  
upgrade. When my pump blew on the way back from Thunderbay last June,  
I decided that using the new design might be worth the cost. I paid  
about $15 more than the Moss price for a traditional design. I was  
hoping it would help keep the engine temp down, as I have always had  
an overheating problem in slow traffic. And it did, a little,in slow  
traffic. It takes a bit more time to get to the point at which I  
switch on my electric fan. Beyond that, I don't see much difference,  
but that is easily explained by the fact that the thermostat is  
governing the temp under normal circumstances.

From mdmiles at mdmpe.com  Thu Nov  4 16:23:40 2010
From: mdmiles at mdmpe.com (Michael Miles)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 16:23:40 -0700
Subject: [TR]  Water Pump
Message-ID: <079301cb7c77$5104c290$f30e47b0$@com>

Short story about my TR3 block and cooling - when we tore the block down 30
years after it was built I was surprised to find that the port into the
block from the water pump was covered about 30% by casting flash.  It had
never been properly cleaned out during the machining and trimming process at
the factory before the engine was first assembled!

 

After that I took great pains to port the water pump out to the dimensions
of the gasket, and match the porting on the engine block.

 

During teardown there was a large deposit of rust behind the #4 sleeve - the
coolant flow is severely slowed and heavier particles simply drop out and
stay back there - leading to some imbalanced and excess heat on the lower
half of the #4 sleeve. 

 

To reduce the effect we matched the porting of the cooling passages from
block to head, and maximized them at the back to increase the tendency for
more flow back there.  Did some other little bits like reducing the ports
toward the front to improve the front/rear balance.

 

Just to add the belt to the suspenders I did put in the Racetorations
6-blade backward curved impeller. 

 

Which solution solved the problem?  All of them.  Would any one solve it
alone?  Conjectural but doubtful.

 

Mike M

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Thu Nov  4 18:05:42 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 18:05:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] water pump Tr3- Wet sleeve engines
Message-ID: <680917.38547.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Subject: water pump Tr3

is there a significant noticeable difference in the high performance water
pumps?
are they worth the up-charge?
Frank
---------------           
I installed the 6 vane  H2O Pump from Ken Gillanders (most likely moss or
BNWP?) & didn't notice any great difference (2->5^F lower Temp.).
________________________________
Sent: Tue, November 2, 2010
 
who has the best hi performance water pump for the TR3?
I don't know because I haven't tried them all. I thought that all 6 vane pumps
would work the same.
 
who has lowest cost for standard water pump TR3?
I don't know, see above ans.
 
any one still make rebuild kits?
Frank

Not that I know of, BUT if ANYONE does know then PLEASE E-mail me as well as
the list. I tried a M-F Tractor Supply Dealer & got no where. Now I have an
Org. Water Pump apart, waiting to be assembled. I do recall Fred T. stating to
go to the M-F Tractor Dealer to obtain one. Now what do I do?

 
The greatest drop in Water Temp., that I noticed, was when I had the Rad.
record & also made a metal Fan Shroud that goes from the inside edge of the
Upper Front Valance to the back edge of the rad. & drops to the bottom of the
Lower Front Valance. I found about a 10^-> 15^F drop in Water Temp. I own a
TR4A & still have the pattern, in case anyone would like it to modify (if
needed) to fit their TRIUMPH.
BTW- I secured the Galvanized Steel Rad. Shroud by the side Rad. Studs that
hold the Rad. Mounting Supports.
-Cosmo Kramer

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Nov  4 18:33:34 2010
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2)
Date: Thu, 04 Nov 2010 20:33:34 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] water pump Tr3- Wet sleeve engines
Message-ID: <2117861425.1027436.1288920815020.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>


From guy at genfiniti.com  Thu Nov  4 18:52:53 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 20:52:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rebuild Master Brake Cylinder Question
Message-ID: <54E22EB5-F2B4-4682-BCEC-E2BB2BEA5F98@genfiniti.com>

Listers,

OK.. for the master brake cylinder on the TR4A.. how does one extract the
inner mechs?
I am able to fully depress the shaft, and look around for a pin, etc. that I
may have to remove, but see nothing like that.
Can someone describe how to extract this thing?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Thu Nov  4 19:29:44 2010
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt)
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2010 02:29:44 +0000
Subject: [TR] photos of Triumphs
Message-ID: <BAY131-W4ED33C22404D6C37DBE4C8B4C0@phx.gbl>

Here is a link to view several triumphs who drove the Tail of the Dragon
heading to the Jekyll VTR2010

http://www.photoreflect.com/store/ThumbPage.aspx?e=7287593&g=04RK01BQ01




Ronnie

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov  4 21:30:36 2010
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 21:30:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Cometic Head Gasket
Message-ID: <378239.91917.qm@web80403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Anyone have any experience using a Cometic Head Gasket (perforated steel core
w/ 
elastomer coating) on a TR2 > 4A engine?

brgds, Jay

'64 Triumph TR4
since '67

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Nov  4 21:33:08 2010
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 21:33:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trying to identify a part
Message-ID: <AANLkTikPEtQRDxEMF7Jy+iiU5AJbhKBfvDYxaSOObSjL@mail.gmail.com>

I got this part with my Stag. I'm not sure what it is. No one from the Stag
digest could identify it so I'm assuming it doesn't look like it belong to a
Stag.


Does it belong to another Triumph? Or does anyone know what it is?

It can be found here.

http://picasaweb.google.com/TRIUMPHSTAG/MiscPart#

<http://picasaweb.google.com/TRIUMPHSTAG/MiscPart#>Regards, Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Fri Nov  5 03:31:56 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2010 03:31:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Water Pump
Message-ID: <92032.24869.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
 
Joe D. wrote:
I  installed one of the new design pumps this summer. My temp gauge   
stays right where it always did with the old pump. Don't see much   
difference.

Lou M. wrote:
Which confirms my long held belief that the so called high performance six 
vane water pumps for the TR2 through 4A engines is a total waste of time
and  more importantly money!!
 
Jerry V. wrote:
Was water temp. a problem?

As I have last posted, I agree with Lou M. BUT to Jerry V's post, I did NOT
have a water temp problem. I disassembled my old water pump to rebuild it &
has never been reassembled. This is why I purchased the 6 vane pump.
 
I agree that taking care of the rad. is a more direct route, but I also feel
that my Rad. Shroud was a big help, too. (see my last post.)

-Cosmo Kramer

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Nov  5 04:48:08 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2010 07:48:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trying to identify a part
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikPEtQRDxEMF7Jy+iiU5AJbhKBfvDYxaSOObSjL@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikPEtQRDxEMF7Jy+iiU5AJbhKBfvDYxaSOObSjL@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201011050748.09381.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday, November 05, 2010 12:33:08 am Sujit Roy wrote:
> I got this part with my Stag. I'm not sure what it is. No one from the Stag
> digest could identify it so I'm assuming it doesn't look like it belong to
> a Stag.
> 
> 
> Does it belong to another Triumph? Or does anyone know what it is?
> 
> It can be found here.
> 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/TRIUMPHSTAG/MiscPart#
> 
> <http://picasaweb.google.com/TRIUMPHSTAG/MiscPart#>Regards, Sujit
Sujit,

It is not from a 3, 4 or 6.

It looks to be a convertible top front clamp of sorts.

Bob

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov  5 05:20:10 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2010 05:20:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rebuild Master Brake Cylinder Question
In-Reply-To: <54E22EB5-F2B4-4682-BCEC-E2BB2BEA5F98@genfiniti.com>
References: <54E22EB5-F2B4-4682-BCEC-E2BB2BEA5F98@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <020b01cb7ce3$cab4d460$0301a8c0@randall>

> OK.. for the master brake cylinder on the TR4A.. how does one 
> extract the inner mechs?

I assume you have already removed the clip and washer that hold the pushrod
into the cylinder.

Make sure the bore is clean at the mouth, it's not unusual for corrosion to
accumulate there and cause the piston to stick rather than coming out.  Then
usually, just rapping the cylinder on something (I use my wooden work bench)
with the mouth down is enough to propel the piston out.  Or a quick blast of
compressed air into the outlet port should be enough, since you can depress
the piston.  Be sure to have a rag or something to catch it, as the piston
can be launched with considerable force.

Randall

From guy at genfiniti.com  Fri Nov  5 06:04:24 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins)
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2010 08:04:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rebuild Master Brake Cylinder Question
In-Reply-To: <020b01cb7ce3$cab4d460$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <54E22EB5-F2B4-4682-BCEC-E2BB2BEA5F98@genfiniti.com>
	<020b01cb7ce3$cab4d460$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <D46710AF-543D-4D4E-B051-B4AD86574CC7@genfiniti.com>

Thanks.  Your "launching" comment is fairly accurate.

In addition to the piston not coming out, I also was unable to remove the cap.
Odd.
So, I took some compressed air to the brake line fitting and BOOM, the cap
shot a good fifty feet down the driveway!
But, unfortunately, the piston did not budge.

>From what you are saying here, the piston should just come out with the
pushrod, washer and clip removed.
Its not, and I'm sure the corrosion is the problem.  I'll get that cleaned up
and see what happens.


On Nov 5, 2010, at 7:20 AM, Randall wrote:

>> OK.. for the master brake cylinder on the TR4A.. how does one
>> extract the inner mechs?
>
> I assume you have already removed the clip and washer that hold the pushrod
> into the cylinder.
>
> Make sure the bore is clean at the mouth, it's not unusual for corrosion to
> accumulate there and cause the piston to stick rather than coming out.
Then
> usually, just rapping the cylinder on something (I use my wooden work
bench)
> with the mouth down is enough to propel the piston out.  Or a quick blast
of
> compressed air into the outlet port should be enough, since you can depress
> the piston.  Be sure to have a rag or something to catch it, as the piston
> can be launched with considerable force.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Nov  5 08:39:12 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 05 Nov 2010 11:39:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] photos of Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <BAY131-W4ED33C22404D6C37DBE4C8B4C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY131-W4ED33C22404D6C37DBE4C8B4C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A85717ED5C1A4AF1B765860DDE5F3313@CarlPC>

Interesting - they must have cameras set up along the route to take 
pictures.  BTW the Triumphs were on page 17 of 18 when I pulled it up.

That is one of my 'someday I will' items.

C

>
> http://www.photoreflect.com/store/ThumbPage.aspx?e=7287593&g=04RK01BQ01
>
>
> Ronnie

From dkspence at telus.net  Fri Nov  5 13:26:25 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2010 14:26:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] photos of Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1288983601.22499.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1288983601.22499.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <19D80F1D-25DD-49EF-A2A4-4DB82AC6F4EB@telus.net>

Would the owner of the green TR4A shown in photos 789, 790 please  
send me a pmail. I'd like to get some info on the wheels on your car.  
Thanks
  Don



> From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> Date: November 5, 2010 9:39:12 AM MDT (CA)
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] photos of Triumphs
> Reply-To: Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
>
>
> Interesting - they must have cameras set up along the route to take  
> pictures.  BTW the Triumphs were on page 17 of 18 when I pulled it up.
>
> That is one of my 'someday I will' items.
>
> C
>
>>
>> http://www.photoreflect.com/store/ThumbPage.aspx? 
>> e=7287593&g=04RK01BQ01
>>
>>
>> Ronnie

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Nov  5 15:08:04 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2010 16:08:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] photos of Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <BAY131-W4ED33C22404D6C37DBE4C8B4C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY131-W4ED33C22404D6C37DBE4C8B4C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <926A432B-3C06-4AA5-8A5B-1DAAF2211CDB@comcast.net>

Those are some nice pics.  I see the guy shots pictures until 5:30.  I  
went through close to 6:00...sun was setting and by the time I got to  
Hwy 74 it was dark.  Stayed in Asheville that night.  Probably good  
that I missed the photographer or I'd be tempted to buy one.

I think the wheels on that green TR4A may be the center lock minilite  
replica wheels in the Moss catalog with the standard 2-eared  
knockoffs.  Just my wag guess.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Nov 4, 2010, at 8:29 PM, ronnie babbitt wrote:

> Here is a link to view several triumphs who drove the Tail of the  
> Dragon
> heading to the Jekyll VTR2010
>
> http://www.photoreflect.com/store/ThumbPage.aspx? 
> e=7287593&g=04RK01BQ01
>
>
>
>
> Ronnie
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Nov  5 19:20:16 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 02:20:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] photos of Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <1060026620.597170.1289009992783.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <778008668.597180.1289010016642.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
> I think the wheels on that green TR4A may be the center lock minilite 
> replica wheels in the Moss catalog with the standard 2-eared  
> knockoffs.  Just my wag guess.

Yes.  KN Minator alloy wheels with chromed steel centers bearing Rudge splines.  Pull off your wire wheel, plunk on your alloy wheel and use the same knock-off cap.  Made in the UK.  The only problem I have seen with them is that the centers have been known to rust.

BTW, I like the leaves plastered in the grille, too.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat Nov  6 08:18:43 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 06 Nov 2010 11:18:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trying to identify a part
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikPEtQRDxEMF7Jy+iiU5AJbhKBfvDYxaSOObSjL@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikPEtQRDxEMF7Jy+iiU5AJbhKBfvDYxaSOObSjL@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4CD571D3.4020007@charter.net>

On 11/5/2010 12:33 AM, Sujit Roy wrote:
> I got this part with my Stag. I'm not sure what it is. No one from the Stag
> digest could identify it so I'm assuming it doesn't look like it belong to a
> Stag.
>
>
> Does it belong to another Triumph? Or does anyone know what it is?
>
> It can be found here.
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/TRIUMPHSTAG/MiscPart#
>    
Looks more like some sort of bending tool.  I don't see any holes to 
attach it to anything.  Think brake pipe bender, but ???

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat Nov  6 08:22:59 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 06 Nov 2010 11:22:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rebuild Master Brake Cylinder Question
In-Reply-To: <54E22EB5-F2B4-4682-BCEC-E2BB2BEA5F98@genfiniti.com>
References: <54E22EB5-F2B4-4682-BCEC-E2BB2BEA5F98@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <4CD572D3.3060307@charter.net>

On 11/4/2010 9:52 PM, Guy D. Huggins wrote:
> Listers,
>
> OK.. for the master brake cylinder on the TR4A.. how does one extract the
> inner mechs?
> I am able to fully depress the shaft, and look around for a pin, etc. that I
> may have to remove, but see nothing like that.
> Can someone describe how to extract this thing?
>    
On the 6, you have to remove the tipping valve from the reservoir hole 
nearest the rear using an Allen wrench.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From rjones at wfeca.net  Sat Nov  6 10:05:54 2010
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 13:05:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carbs
Message-ID: <5FCD8D36-6954-46A3-8E6D-D0DFF4BF75B2@wfeca.net>

Does anyone out there have HS6 SU's on their TR3 or TR3A?  If so, can you use
the TR# or TR3A manifold or do you have to use the TR4 manifold?

Thanks

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Nov  6 13:26:14 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 16:26:14 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carbs
Message-ID: <251bd.1ed0cb9b.3a0713e6@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/6/2010 12:25:38 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rjones at wfeca.net writes: 
> Does anyone out there have HS6 SU's on their TR3 or TR3A?  If so, can you 
> use
> the TR# or TR3A manifold or do you have to use the TR4 manifold?
> 
I put HS6's on my TR3 and they worked fine but I had to improvise the 
throttle and choke linkage.  Not a big deal if you have access to a metal shop.

I have since put the H6's back on (after a rebuild by Jim Taylor in 
Oklahoma) and now I am rounding up all the lost and unusable linkages I need for 
that.

Dave

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat Nov  6 14:53:24 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 17:53:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carbs
References: <5FCD8D36-6954-46A3-8E6D-D0DFF4BF75B2@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <1C398434E86B45ADB9A02456BF5A8CFA@DCS78M81>

Yes, they fit on either the 3 or 4 manifolds.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Jones" <rjones at wfeca.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2010 1:05 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carbs


> Does anyone out there have HS6 SU's on their TR3 or TR3A?  If so, can you 
> use
> the TR# or TR3A manifold or do you have to use the TR4 manifold?
>
> Thanks

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Nov  6 15:30:40 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 22:30:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Shoal green
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB9F59@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Our recently acquired 1960 TRA had been repainted at some point in its past to
a powder blue-ish color but on further investigation (spare tire cubby hole
and cover) I'm starting to think that it was originally shoal green. I'm
waiting for the heritage certificate which will hopefully confirm that but I
wonder if anyone has a shoal green TR3A or failing that a shoal green anything
so we can see what a whole car looks like in that color.

Thanks,

Stan

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sat Nov  6 17:04:58 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Sat, 06 Nov 2010 20:04:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Shoal green
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB9F59@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB9F59@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <8CD4C268CDB1647-D88-22817@Webmail-d117.sysops.aol.com>

I just checked again, and Bill Piggott doesn't seem to mention Shoal
Green as a sidescreen car color. However, it was a Standard-Triumph
color, seen somewhat commonly on the Triumph 10 / Standard 10 sedans,
for example. About the closest thing to a picture of a car I can find
is in this scanned article about a Doretti:

<http://www.doretti.no/pdf/TopGear.pdf>

Here it is on a (slightly darkly scanned) ACME paint chart:

<http://www.vtr.org/maintain/paint-charts/acme2.jpg>

My Standard Pennant is Shoal Green and Litchfield Green, but the only
pictures I have of it make it look blue. :-(

Personally, I think it might just be a great color on a TR3A!

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er,
Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Nov 6, 2010 5:30 pm
Subject: [TR] Shoal green


Our recently acquired 1960 TRA had been repainted at some point in its
past to
a powder blue-ish color but on further investigation (spare tire cubby
hole
and cover) I'm starting to think that it was originally shoal green. I'm
waiting for the heritage certificate which will hopefully confirm that
but I
wonder if anyone has a shoal green TR3A or failing that a shoal green
anything
so we can see what a whole car looks like in that color.

Thanks,

Stan
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/zoboherald at aol.com

From trglory at verizon.net  Sat Nov  6 18:48:37 2010
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sat, 06 Nov 2010 21:48:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Shoal green
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB9F59@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CB9F59@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <00a801cb7e1d$e5b66b80$b1234280$@net>

Stan;

Go to www.cptc.org and click on the "About" page. Is this what you are
looking for?

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT)
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2010 6:31 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Shoal green

Our recently acquired 1960 TRA had been repainted at some point in its past
to
a powder blue-ish color but on further investigation (spare tire cubby hole
and cover) I'm starting to think that it was originally shoal green. I'm
waiting for the heritage certificate which will hopefully confirm that but I
wonder if anyone has a shoal green TR3A or failing that a shoal green
anything
so we can see what a whole car looks like in that color.

Thanks,

Stan
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  6 21:04:42 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 21:04:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Pertronix - praise#1
Message-ID: <973232.51035.qm@web51608.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
 I've been having computor problems since I received that Vendor solition. I
sent the below E-mail to the list, I just got caught up on my digest readings
to NOT fine this (below) E-mail posted in the digest readings. SO if I missed
the E-mail in my reading, then I'm sorry to bother you, but if my E-mail
didn't go through, then here it is. This is the 3rd time I've sent this, so
NOW I'm going to send it in MANY parts.
 
I feel it's important to give praise to people or a business that has done me
well. Therefore, I'd live to thank you all for helping me out with questions
that I have asked this list in the past.

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  6 21:06:55 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 21:06:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Pertronix - praise#2
Message-ID: <322959.7218.qm@web51601.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Last year in Jan. 2009 I was getting my car ready for the trip to go out west.
After meeting many FOT at the Watkins Glen weekend in Oct. 2008, one person
told me of how pleased he was with his Pertronix Ignition system that he
bought from a supplier, Standard Performance & his dealings with Bennett
French. I then phoned Bennett French to order the complete distributor & Flame
Thrower coil from him to be installed on my engine before leaving on the trip.
I had a wonderful time meeting new people from different TRIUMPH clubs &
having Jonmacbs company. As many of you know that I went west as John
traveled south, & we were to meet up in the state of Washington to travel
south to SLO with the other clubs leading the way. Unfortunately I had car
problems when I reached Mount Rushmore & decided to turn back to make it home.
This winter I worked more the Garage Queen hoping to remedy the problems that
I was incurring. -Cosmo Kramer

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  6 21:08:47 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 21:08:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Pertronix - praise#3
Message-ID: <369422.40314.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

In this May I did a tune up at a clubbs technical secessions, using the
garagebs Sun Gauges & the help of the pro technicians in enturpiting the
readings of their Sun equipment. When I went to look under the Pertronix
distributor cap, I found fine brass filings scattered thew out, inside the
unit. I cleaned them out & installed the spare cap that I had been caring with
me. About a month later, I started having problems again in a chugging motion
to check, again, under the cap to find Al filings all over inside the unit.
(1st time was a brass cap & the 2nd time an AL cap). I asked the list for
guidance, & I wish to thank, again, you all for replying with very good
points. One, of the many replies, was to check out the advance weight springs,
but I was not able to remove the dizzy. Having fear of breaking something, I
simply swapped my Points Distributor unit back into the Garage Queen to fix
the problem that I was encoring. I then tried to contact
 Bennett French with out much success at first (thank you members again for
your help), but later received an E-mail from Mr. French stating that he was
NO LONGER in the auto business, but to state the problem that I was having &
may be he could help me. I replied in detail the symptoms, steps taken, &
problems that I had occurred. After giving him 6 weeks to reply, which he
never did in any way, I decided to contact Pertronix. Knowing that I was
beyond my 1-year warrantee, I phoned & spoke to John who stated to send the
unit back for inspection. I did so & then left for the VTR convention. A week
later I phoned & spoke to a Marvin to see if Pertronix had received the
distributor unit & had time to look at it. Marvin could not find any record of
it & stated that he would phone me back later that day with more information.
He did & stated that the problem was that one of the advance weight springs
had broken loose & would be repaired at no charge, knowing
 that I was past my one yr warrantee.

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  6 21:11:56 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 21:11:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Pertronix - praise#5
Message-ID: <491015.79182.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I believe in giving reorganization to people & business that are honorable &
have good follow through on what they say they will do & to go OUT OF THEIR
WAY to please their customers. I strongly advise people to go back through the
proper channels when having a problem, as I have done. Ibm so pleased with
Pertronixbs attitude & service that Ibm planning on purchasing more of
their products. I recommend dealing with them directly than through a third
party that my go out of business.
-Cosmo Kramer

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  6 21:10:40 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 21:10:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Pertronix - praise#4
Message-ID: <364073.86791.qm@web51602.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I asked if Pertronix would please send out another new brass distributor cap to replace the bad one & to bill me for it. After a week later I checked home to see if the parts had arrived, yet. I was told that the package did NOT arrive. I then phoned Pertronix to ask if they had shipped the parts back yet, & if so, then what was the estimated day of arrival? They said that they would find out & phone me back. About 4 hr. later Marvin phoned me to give me the information that I was requesting, alone with the tracking #. Sure enough, the package arrived on said date with all that I had requested at NO CHARGE. 
-Cosmo Kramer

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Nov  7 05:56:55 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 12:56:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Pertronix - praise#5
In-Reply-To: <491015.79182.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1544216355.876631.1289134615828.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I believe in giving reorganization to people & business that are honorable &
>have good follow through on what they say they will do & to go OUT OF THEIR
>WAY to please their customers. I believe in that too.


Just three weeks ago, I had problems that caused me to replace my Pertronix with points.  

I had a screw loose.

Literally.

I mean, I lost the beveled screw with special thread that came with my Pertronix to install on the dizzy plate.  I knew where the screw was.  I had left it with the counter girl at the Garage where I have car inspections done.  Thing is, she's a pretty girl so I knew I'd never get anything out of her, especially given what I was after  But that's another story going way back to a painful early adolescence.

Actually, jokes aside, she had lost it too.

So, I called Pertronix.  Great people there.  They Stuck the correct screw in an envelope and mailed it to me at no charge.

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Nov  7 07:16:58 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 09:16:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
Message-ID: <4CD6B4DA.8060507@charter.net>

List,

I've always enjoyed my Triumphs, ever since the first one back in 
1974.   That was the start of a lifelong learning experience (never mind 
the fact that I turned down a Fiat 850 to buy that first car), and I'm 
still learning.

I've never really been a stickler for originality or accuracy, 
preferring fun and reliability.  I'd rather drive a car than show it, 
and a row of beautifully styled machines with their bonnets open, 
spoiling the lines, leaves me cold.  But that's just me.  I certainly 
wouldn't want to denigrate anyone else's favorite facet of the hobby.  
Because we all have a common point of reference:  the community.  
Whenever two or more of us get together, no matter how we individually 
see our interests, there's bound to be some fun involved, as well as a 
good chance you'll come away with some new tip, trick or tool to help 
you in the future.  To me, that's the crux of the biscuit - taking a 
solo drive is fun, but driving in a long line of LBCs puts a stupid grin 
on my face that lasts for days.

So, on to the point of this message:  Recently, as a result of a 
conversation about some auto arcana on this list, I had the honor of 
hosting a  list member as he made his way down to Jekyll Island.  Though 
the visit was short, it was interesting, and it's always nice to meet 
list members and put a face to the signature files and tag lines that 
are so familiar.

So, no matter if you're expounding on the proper sequence of spoke 
polishing or discussing the proper amount of baling wire to carry in the 
boot, rest assured I'm enjoying every minute, and maybe learning 
something new in the process.

Thanks!

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Nov  7 07:41:43 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 07:41:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
In-Reply-To: <4CD6B4DA.8060507@charter.net>
References: <4CD6B4DA.8060507@charter.net>
Message-ID: <F7074557E25E42128825D32847798A4A@bboffice>

Great thought Jeff, thanks for sharing.  

Listers, if your ever headed out US-40 through Heber City, UT give a call
and I'll stop what I doing to share a cup of coffee and a chat, the pot is
always on somewhere in town.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


  

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2010 7:17 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby

List,

I've always enjoyed my Triumphs, ever since the first one back in 
1974.   That was the start of a lifelong learning experience (never mind 
the fact that I turned down a Fiat 850 to buy that first car), and I'm still
learning.

I've never really been a stickler for originality or accuracy, preferring
fun and reliability.  I'd rather drive a car than show it, and a row of
beautifully styled machines with their bonnets open, spoiling the lines,
leaves me cold.  But that's just me.  I certainly wouldn't want to denigrate
anyone else's favorite facet of the hobby.  
Because we all have a common point of reference:  the community.  
Whenever two or more of us get together, no matter how we individually see
our interests, there's bound to be some fun involved, as well as a good
chance you'll come away with some new tip, trick or tool to help you in the
future.  To me, that's the crux of the biscuit - taking a solo drive is fun,
but driving in a long line of LBCs puts a stupid grin on my face that lasts
for days.

So, on to the point of this message:  Recently, as a result of a
conversation about some auto arcana on this list, I had the honor of hosting
a  list member as he made his way down to Jekyll Island.  Though the visit
was short, it was interesting, and it's always nice to meet list members and
put a face to the signature files and tag lines that are so familiar.

So, no matter if you're expounding on the proper sequence of spoke polishing
or discussing the proper amount of baling wire to carry in the boot, rest
assured I'm enjoying every minute, and maybe learning something new in the
process.

Thanks!

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Nov  7 08:16:14 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 08:16:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
In-Reply-To: <F7074557E25E42128825D32847798A4A@bboffice>
References: <4CD6B4DA.8060507@charter.net>
	<F7074557E25E42128825D32847798A4A@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4CD6C2BE.7030603@gmail.com>

On 11/7/10 7:41 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote:

> Listers, if your ever headed out US-40 through Heber City, UT

And today I learned that US 40 is a different road than Interstate 40.

I'm a tad slow sometimes.

Teriann

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Nov  7 09:13:38 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 10:13:38 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Manifold
Message-ID: <8471350.519592.1289146418575.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

Ran into a glitch.  The inlet manifold I used is missing the 'tab' that the carb linkage connects to.  

My engine calls for #305547; description: MANIFOLD, inlet, high port with boss on balance tube TR3 from TS13053, TR3A 
The one on the engine is #302119;  description: MANIFOLD, inlet, high port TR3 from TS9350 to TS13052E 

I have access to a #119 - are they interchangeable other than the balance tube?  

I also have a #305744: MANIFOLD, inlet, long curved tubes no tapping with TR4 to CT21470; if anyone is interested.  Note that the carb linkage piece is bent - not on the manifold but the attachment.  would need to be cleaned up....

Thanks
Carl
TS81802LO - home from the painter and now the 'bits' go back on....

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Nov  7 09:20:39 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 10:20:39 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
Message-ID: <945120.519876.1289146839837.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

That comes from your moving from the hectic life of California and going out into the 'desert'....
 
I can't remember where it is - somewhere in one of the 'between' states.  There is an intersection of  I-xx US-xx & SR-xx  -  I can't remember the number must be in the 50-80 range.   But can you imagine the fun with...   "go to the 'xx' junction and take 'xx' north (or is it east or west?)...  you'll figure it out - just follow the signs"
 


Nov 7, 2010 03:34:14 PM, tjwakeman at gmail.com wrote:

On 11/7/10 7:41 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote:

> Listers, if your ever headed out US-40 through Heber City, UT

And today I learned that US 40 is a different road than Interstate 40.

I'm a tad slow sometimes.

Teriann
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov  7 10:39:02 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 09:39:02 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A Manifold
In-Reply-To: <8471350.519592.1289146418575.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <8471350.519592.1289146418575.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <007201cb7ea2$ab1cbc60$0301a8c0@randall>

> The one on the engine is #302119;  description: MANIFOLD, 
> inlet, high port TR3 from TS9350 to TS13052E 

I believe that is the wrong commission number range; TS13052E was the
introduction of the "high port" head.  But that manifold should work fine,
other than lacking the boss on the balance tube.  I'm not even certain it is
'wrong' for your car; it's the latest manifold listed in my TR3 SPC.

> I also have a #305744: MANIFOLD, inlet, long curved tubes no 
> tapping with TR4 to CT21470;

Also wrong description I believe.  According to my information it was fitted
to 100 engines starting at TS16801E, and then to all from CT21471E through
the end of TR4A production.

Randall

From mondoluxe at suddenlink.net  Sun Nov  7 10:41:09 2010
From: mondoluxe at suddenlink.net (Jeffrey Johnson)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 11:41:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] Chiming in - Pertronix
Message-ID: <4CD6E4B5.6050106@suddenlink.net>

You'd have to pry my Pertronix out of my cold, lifeless hands.

I had the great misfortune some years ago to have an employee throw out 
a box that contained my Stromberg CD factory-issue carbs.
I have no idea why someone could be so ignorant, but that's another issue.

I replaced them with Weber DGV 32/36 carbs and now find that they are in 
need of a rebuild. Anyone familiar?
I suppose I could get a Haynes manual, study on it hard, and glean the 
information I need to get the task done.

Thanks for your advice in advance,

Jeffrey Guy

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Nov  7 11:12:19 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 13:12:19 EST
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
Message-ID: <627d3.1a4d431a.3a084603@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/7/2010 9:33:48 AM Central Standard Time, 
tjwakeman at gmail.com writes: 
> And today I learned that US 40 is a different road than Interstate 40.
> 
> I'm a tad slow sometimes.
> 
" 95 was the route you was on, not the speed limit sign."
Jim Croce

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Nov  7 12:14:33 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 11:14:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carbs
Message-ID: <664497.80379.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Why would you switch back from HS6's to the original H6's? I've been dreaming about upgrading to the HS6's to get away from those problematic H6 choke assemblies. I've already picked up a set of HS6's. Now you have me wondering...

     Bill in Tehachapi


Message: 1
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 16:26:14 EDT
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Carbs
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <251bd.1ed0cb9b.3a0713e6 at cs.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

In a message dated 11/6/2010 12:25:38 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rjones at wfeca.net writes: 
> Does anyone out there have HS6 SU's on their TR3 or TR3A?  If so, can you 
> use
> the TR# or TR3A manifold or do you have to use the TR4 manifold?
> 
I put HS6's on my TR3 and they worked fine but I had to improvise the 
throttle and choke linkage.  Not a big deal if you have access to a metal shop.

I have since put the H6's back on (after a rebuild by Jim Taylor in 
Oklahoma) and now I am rounding up all the lost and unusable linkages I need for 
that.

Dave

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Nov  7 12:43:02 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 13:43:02 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Manifold
Message-ID: <26600166.527325.1289158982558.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Nov  7 13:15:38 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 14:15:38 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Re:  TR3A Manifold
Message-ID: <8903222.528642.1289160938026.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

Darn Rich Text Formatting...   sorry.


Nov 7, 2010 07:43:02 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

If the description is wrong - blame Moss-UK as the SPC isn't as detailed as that.  They are also the only place I know that has a full listing of TR part numbers - even the NLS items.
 
Thanks Randall.   
 
Any suggestions on how to really clean it up real good - particularly inside.  
 
Carl


Nov 7, 2010 06:03:03 PM, TR3driver at ca.rr.com wrote:

> The one on the engine is #302119; description: MANIFOLD, 
> inlet, high port TR3 from TS9350 to TS13052E 

I believe that is the wrong commission number range; TS13052E was the
introduction of the "high port" head. But that manifold should work fine,
other than lacking the boss on the balance tube. I'm not even certain it is
'wrong' for your car; it's the latest manifold listed in my TR3 SPC.

> I also have a #305744: MANIFOLD, inlet, long curved tubes no 
> tapping with TR4 to CT21470;

Also wrong description I believe. According to my information it was fitted
to 100 engines starting at TS16801E, and then to all from CT21471E through
the end of TR4A production.

Randall
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Nov  7 13:25:55 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 12:25:55 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Idle Stumble
Message-ID: <a06240807c8fcb3c03167@[192.168.2.3]>

Well folks I can confirm that a leaking manifold gasket will indeed 
cause a idle "stumble".  I have just finished replacing the TR6s 
intake/exhaust manifold with one of the Moss "competition" gaskets.
Yes, it took me a while, but in the process I learned several things, 
first ... and probably most important early intake manifolds had 
casting problems and may not be level ... mine was not ...
A local machine shop milled the ports, I was impressed that he had a 
cutter head big enough to cover the port area in one pass ... well 
worth the $60 it cost.  I then spent a lot of time removing the carb 
gaskets that had been welded to the manifold ... well not actually 
welded but it took a couple of hours, a can of Goof Off, razor knife, 
wire brush, and finally a sanding block to get the ports all smooth.

I found five of the mounting studs loose, two came out when I removed 
the manifold. Used a "permanent" thread locker, double nutted the 
studs and tightened them ... "good". Bought Grade 8 nuts and split 
washers for the manifold and for the carbs, probably did not need 
that but they look pretty.

Remounting the manifold was easy, and I carefully torqued all the 
nuts, replaced the carbs using all new gaskets and insulators (BTW 
the insulator was duralin? ). Then came the process of re-installing 
the carbs ... no human had ever been able to put those nuts on 
without some serious cursing ...  I was/am Lucky have AnnaBelle with 
her small, deleterious fingers to get the really tough ones at least 
started.
Every thing all back together ... I could only work a couple hours at 
a time ... (Old Age is NOT for Sissies)  Sat down to start the engine 
and check for any kind of leaks ... CLICK !!!  CRAP !!!

So first I removed the wires from the starter and noticed that the 
positive terminal on the starter was a tad loose.  (the nut is 12mm, 
the terminal is 14mm, future reference) tightened that replaced the 
wires ... and VAROOM ... 3000 rpm at Start!!!  Shut it down fast. 
Now What ???

Checked the carb linkage and found that my moving them around to get 
every thing else fixed had caused one of the link clamps to come 
loose and the front carb idle bracket was moving. Tightened all those 
little clamps good ... so good that I broke one of them ... that was 
it for that day ...  Finally found a screw the right size the replace 
the broken one and put that in.  Back to starting the engine, I did, 
it did ... and the idle purr was just plain music to my ears. Got 
some cleaning to do this morning, and she will be ready to ride (the 
TR6 not AnnaBelle)

Thanks for listening ...
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Nov  7 13:37:19 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 12:37:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <664497.80379.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <664497.80379.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a0624080ac8fcbc3f2f36@[192.168.2.3]>

I have to agree with Bill ... but am wondering what he means by 
"problematic choke assemblies"
Never had any problem, with them, but then I agree with the Author of 
"How to repair your Foreign Car" when he states "Carburetor, a French 
word for DO NOT TOUCH" ;-)

One quick note on TR3 intake manifolds, and there are several but 
fall into two (mostly) categories ... straight balance tube, and 
"humped" balance tube.  When I put headers on Casper I had to switch 
to the humped one (with no hole for vacuum something) fit fine, 
except there was no room for a front air filter, so I modified a 
skinny one (cut two inches off the bottom) and all was well ... I 
belive any TR3/4 manifold will fit ... you just need to adapt to your 
needs and/or desires ...

>      Why would you switch back from HS6's to the original H6's? I've 
>been dreaming about upgrading to the HS6's to get away from those 
>problematic H6 choke assemblies. I've already picked up a set of 
>HS6's. Now you have me wondering...
>
>      Bill in Tehachapi
>
>rjones at wfeca.net writes:
>>  Does anyone out there have HS6 SU's on their TR3 or TR3A?  If so, can you
>>  use
>>  the TR# or TR3A manifold or do you have to use the TR4 manifold?
>>
>I put HS6's on my TR3 and they worked fine but I had to improvise the
>throttle and choke linkage.  Not a big deal if you have access to a 
>metal shop.
>
>I have since put the H6's back on (after a rebuild by Jim Taylor in
>Oklahoma) and now I am rounding up all the lost and unusable 
>linkages I need for
>that.
>
>Dave

-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sun Nov  7 14:01:39 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 15:01:39 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Chiming in - Pertronix
Message-ID: <5661228.530386.1289163699713.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

Send them to Jeff at Paltech:  http://www.paltech1.com/

He does an amazing job and is written about on the list all the time.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

Nov 7, 2010 01:03:52 PM, mondoluxe at suddenlink.net wrote:

You'd have to pry my Pertronix out of my cold, lifeless hands.

I had the great misfortune some years ago to have an employee throw out 
a box that contained my Stromberg CD factory-issue carbs.
I have no idea why someone could be so ignorant, but that's another issue.

I replaced them with Weber DGV 32/36 carbs and now find that they are in 
need of a rebuild. Anyone familiar?
I suppose I could get a Haynes manual, study on it hard, and glean the 
information I need to get the task done.

Thanks for your advice in advance,

Jeffrey Guy
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From dmericas at austin.rr.com  Sun Nov  7 14:10:47 2010
From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 21:10:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12752.1289140879.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20101107211047.6RO4P.271061.root@hrndva-web05-z02>

---- Jeff Scarbrough  wrote: 
> ... a row of beautifully styled machines with their bonnets open, 
> spoiling the lines, leaves me cold.

I agree Jeff.  Giovanni Michelotti and others didn't pen the lines of their wonderful creations with an eye towards looking best with bonnets and trunks agape.  Shows where every car is expected to be shown this way are getting very boring to me.

Dean Mericas
1965 TR4
1974 2000 GTV
1976 Giulia Super 1300

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Nov  7 14:11:20 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 13:11:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] another view..........
Message-ID: <550171.99399.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Jeff,
Agree with you Jeff and thanks for sharing.  I love driving more than showing 
but agree that we need people with all kinds of interests in the hobby.

An interesting comment Jeff made was taking along "baling wire".  I'm wondering 
how many people remember baling wire and what they're ages are.LOL  On the other 
hand maybe it tells the age of  those still in the hobby.  If you were throwing 
bales tied with wire (around the time these sports cars were manufactured) then 
I'd bet your kids know nothing about "baling wire".  lol

OH the good old days.

gary n.

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Sun Nov  7 14:27:40 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 16:27:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
In-Reply-To: <627d3.1a4d431a.3a084603@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20101107212657.B647018763F@autox.team.net>

 " 95 was the route you was on, not the speed limit sign."
Jim Croce

Tell THAT to the folks on I-95 between Philadelphia and DC.

What was amazing is instead of passing me in my TR6 (going about 75 [65
speed limit]), they'd get behind me and tailgate, trying to get me to go
faster.  I-95 was so much more civilized when gas was $4/gallon as almost
everybody slowed down to a more reasonable speed.

BobW, 1974 TR6
Montgomeryville, Pa.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Sunday, 07 November, 2010 1:12 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Another view of the hobby

In a message dated 11/7/2010 9:33:48 AM Central Standard Time,
tjwakeman at gmail.com writes: 
> And today I learned that US 40 is a different road than Interstate 40.
> 
> I'm a tad slow sometimes.
> 
" 95 was the route you was on, not the speed limit sign."
Jim Croce
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Nov  7 15:08:58 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 15:08:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
In-Reply-To: <20101107212657.B647018763F@autox.team.net>
References: <627d3.1a4d431a.3a084603@cs.com>
	<20101107212657.B647018763F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8BCC534A663449359F987C56D74E9BBE@Vista>

I10 Trough Downtown LA could be either one at certain times of the day.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Wanderer
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2010 2:28 PM
To: Dave1massey at cs.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Another view of the hobby

 " 95 was the route you was on, not the speed limit sign."
Jim Croce

Tell THAT to the folks on I-95 between Philadelphia and DC.

What was amazing is instead of passing me in my TR6 (going about 75 [65
speed limit]), they'd get behind me and tailgate, trying to get me to go
faster.  I-95 was so much more civilized when gas was $4/gallon as almost
everybody slowed down to a more reasonable speed.

BobW, 1974 TR6
Montgomeryville, Pa.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Nov  7 15:32:07 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 15:32:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] another view..........
In-Reply-To: <550171.99399.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <550171.99399.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>

On 11/7/10 2:11 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:

> An interesting comment Jeff made was taking along "baling wire".  I'm wondering
> how many people remember baling wire and what they're ages are.LOL  On the other
> hand maybe it tells the age of  those still in the hobby.  If you were throwing
> bales tied with wire (around the time these sports cars were manufactured) then
> I'd bet your kids know nothing about "baling wire".  lol
>
> OH the good old days.


Now that I think of it, in the last five or so years I've only bought 
hay tied with twine and not baling wire.  New breed of bailers?

Teriann

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Nov  7 15:53:15 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 17:53:15 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carbs
Message-ID: <11a1e9.6db4c580.3a0887db@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/7/2010 1:14:34 PM Central Standard Time, 
wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: 
>      Why would you switch back from HS6's to the original H6's? I've been 
> dreaming about upgrading to the HS6's to get away from those problematic 
> H6 choke assemblies. I've already picked up a set of HS6's. Now you have me 
> wondering...
> 

It was decided during an irrational fit of originality fever.  Besides, 
with a fresh rebuild and setup by an expert (not me!) the jets move ever so 
nicely up and down with little resistance.

If I was going to upgrade I'd go with Strombergs.  I've had much better 
luck with those.

Dave

From salty1249y at gmail.com  Sun Nov  7 15:59:15 2010
From: salty1249y at gmail.com (Michael Burdick)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 17:59:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] another view..........
In-Reply-To: <4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>
References: <550171.99399.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin9pXY+1n7ZUHxUprNdShaPedCOtq+w+G9Rq2J4@mail.gmail.com>

Twine has been around for a while - my grandparents had a McCormick baler
that used twine that I first remember seeing as a kid in the late 60's...
 Maybe wire use is declining?

Mike


On Sun, Nov 7, 2010 at 5:32 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>
>
> Now that I think of it, in the last five or so years I've only bought hay
> tied with twine and not baling wire.  New breed of bailers?
>
> Teriann
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/salty1249y at gmail.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Nov  7 16:06:30 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 18:06:30 EST
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
Message-ID: <11a96c.5c5c17cc.3a088af6@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/7/2010 3:27:35 PM Central Standard Time, 
rawanderer at comcast.net writes: 
> Tell THAT to the folks on I-95 between Philadelphia and DC.
> 
Are they in that big of a hurry to get to DC or to get out of DC?

Dave

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Nov  7 16:20:38 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 15:20:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] another view..........
In-Reply-To: <4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>
References: <550171.99399.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a0624080cc8fce4308ba4@[192.168.2.3]>

Darn Teriann, how did you convert your TR3 from gasoline to hay ... 
=-O and ... when did you "ever" drive slow?  Except perhaps in the 
Rover ...

>
>
>Now that I think of it, in the last five or so years I've only 
>bought hay tied with twine and not baling wire.  New breed of 
>bailers?
>
>Teriann


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Nov  7 16:38:16 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 16:38:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] another view..........
In-Reply-To: <4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>
References: <550171.99399.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6940FF9994B54A95BC08AC8DEC039FCF@bboffice>

Same here, no baling wire used here for the past five years, just
poly-twine.  However, I doo still have a stash of it in the corner of the
barn when needed. 

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2010 3:32 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] another view..........

On 11/7/10 2:11 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:

> An interesting comment Jeff made was taking along "baling wire".  I'm 
> wondering how many people remember baling wire and what they're ages 
> are.LOL  On the other hand maybe it tells the age of  those still in 
> the hobby.  If you were throwing bales tied with wire (around the time 
> these sports cars were manufactured) then I'd bet your kids know 
> nothing about "baling wire".  lol
>
> OH the good old days.


Now that I think of it, in the last five or so years I've only bought hay
tied with twine and not baling wire.  New breed of bailers?

Teriann
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Nov  7 16:46:31 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 18:46:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Passenger DOORS  TR3A   AVAILABLE   NEED ONE?
Message-ID: <8CD4CED237DBF0B-23BC-18435@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>

 I collected a bunch of stuff when I rebuilt/restored my TR3A..

Got to get rid of some stuff. now!

Anybody need a good door?

Small enough to ship cheaply.

Joe A

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov  7 16:47:11 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 15:47:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] another view..........
In-Reply-To: <4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>
References: <550171.99399.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00e201cb7ed6$1916b210$0301a8c0@randall>

> Now that I think of it, in the last five or so years I've only bought 
> hay tied with twine and not baling wire.  New breed of bailers?

Wow, I'm amazed you could find wire bales even that recently.  It's been
known for many decades that bits of wire wind up in the stomachs of
livestock fed with hay bound with wire; and I thought the argument over
whether it harmed the livestock was settled several decades ago.  There are
workarounds, like "cow magnets", but it's simpler and safer to just not feed
them the wire in the first place.  At any rate, I believe my grandfather had
already been using twine for many years in 1962 (my earliest memory of a hay
bale).

The "new generation" of hay balers appear to all be round balers, and I've
not seen any of those that use wire instead of twine.  Are you still buying
"square" bales?

-- Randall

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov  7 16:52:01 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 15:52:01 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <a0624080ac8fcbc3f2f36@[192.168.2.3]>
References: <664497.80379.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<a0624080ac8fcbc3f2f36@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <00e301cb7ed6$c6104fd0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have to agree with Bill ... but am wondering what he means by 
> "problematic choke assemblies"

I would guess that he's had about the same experience with them that I had :
used as a daily driver (meaning the choke gets pulled twice a day or more),
the cork seals only last a year or two before they start letting fuel drip
onto the exhaust manifold.

I can still remember pulling to the side of the road in my Dad's TR3A,
lifting the hood and wondering what that "sst ... sst ... sst" noise was.
Then I noticed how the exhaust manifold was glowing dull red, except for a
place that would periodically turn dark.

Randall

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov  7 17:10:57 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 16:10:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A Manifold
In-Reply-To: <007201cb7ea2$ab1cbc60$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <8471350.519592.1289146418575.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
	<007201cb7ea2$ab1cbc60$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <00ea01cb7ed9$6b3cc9a0$0301a8c0@randall>

Randall babbled:
> Also wrong description I believe.  According to my 
> information it was fitted
> to 100 engines starting at TS16801E,

I of course meant CT16801E.

> through the end of TR4A production.

Also my mistake, my TR4A SPC shows P/N 307455.

But the Moss UK listing is still clearly wrong.  They left out the early TR3
low port manifold entirely (P/N 302118), and the cylinder head introduced at
TS9350E was the "Le Mans" head, still a low port design.  TS13052E was the
introduction of the "high port" head.

Cleaning would depend on condition; I would probably degrease first and then
use glass bead blasting.  But generally I just clean up the mating surfaces
with a file and install it "as found" otherwise <G>

Randall

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Sun Nov  7 17:11:51 2010
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 00:11:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] Acceleration Stumble
Message-ID: <1136413259-1289175063-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-901843623-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Things I've checked.  Good spark
Nice tan plugs 1st and 4th. Running a  pertronics. Good fuel flow. New gas. Running about 13 degrees before or after. Can't remember (to the left of pointer from front view)

I Noticed the breaker plate was very stiff.  Removed cleaned and lubricated with white lithium grease. Slides  much better. While apart I placed a hose on the front of the vacuum advance and drew on it. It was very difficult to draw enough vacuum to see it move. 
Is this normal?
Could this be the reason she stumbles under hard acceleration? 

She is very difficult to start when cold.  After she warms up never a problem. But cold I have to crank and crank and crank.  

What are the suggestions? 

Ronnie Babbitt
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Nov  7 17:29:17 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 18:29:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] another view..........
In-Reply-To: <00e201cb7ed6$1916b210$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <550171.99399.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>,
	<4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>,
	<00e201cb7ed6$1916b210$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W19BABD7BC86E88311C07A3E14F0@phx.gbl>

I want to thank Randall for typing and sending my response! %^)
That is exactly what I was thinking.

I'm in the middle of the great unwashed middle of the country, but I have not
seen anything except the huge round bales for several years.
I think they have also signaled the end of the hay loft in the barns.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 15:47:11 -0800
> Subject: Re: [TR] another view..........
>
> > Now that I think of it, in the last five or so years I've only bought
> > hay tied with twine and not baling wire. New breed of bailers?
>
> Wow, I'm amazed you could find wire bales even that recently. It's been
> known for many decades that bits of wire wind up in the stomachs of
> livestock fed with hay bound with wire; and I thought the argument over
> whether it harmed the livestock was settled several decades ago. There are
> workarounds, like "cow magnets", but it's simpler and safer to just not
feed
> them the wire in the first place. At any rate, I believe my grandfather had
> already been using twine for many years in 1962 (my earliest memory of a
hay
> bale).
>
> The "new generation" of hay balers appear to all be round balers, and I've
> not seen any of those that use wire instead of twine. Are you still buying
> "square" bales?
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov  7 17:57:25 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 16:57:25 -0800
Subject: [TR] Acceleration Stumble
In-Reply-To: <1136413259-1289175063-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-901843623-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1136413259-1289175063-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-901843623-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <00fb01cb7edf$e8c82a30$0301a8c0@randall>

> While apart I placed a hose on the front of the 
> vacuum advance and drew on it. It was very difficult to draw 
> enough vacuum to see it move. 

Do you mean you were using your mouth?  Yeah, that's pretty tough.  HF has a
Mityvac clone that works a lot better, and even has a gauge.

> Could this be the reason she stumbles under hard acceleration? 

Not likely IMO.

What do you have in the dashpots?  Have you tried something thicker?

> She is very difficult to start when cold.  After she warms up 
> never a problem. But cold I have to crank and crank and crank.  
> 
> What are the suggestions? 

I had a similar problem, which went away when I switched back to points.
One thing I discovered was that the engine would frequently fire off just as
I released the starter button.  So before I swapped out the Pertronix, I
would let it crank about 2 revolutions and then let off to see if it would
fire.

In retrospect, I suspect this was the first symptom of a defective battery.
But I've not reinstalled the Pertronix to see if the problem has vanished
with the new battery.

Have you checked that your chokes are synchronized?  Is fuel leaking out of
the float bowls?  How long will it hold fuel pressure?

Randall

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Nov  7 18:05:36 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 18:05:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] another view..........
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W19BABD7BC86E88311C07A3E14F0@phx.gbl>
References: <550171.99399.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>,
	<4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>, <00e201cb7ed6$1916b210$0301a8c0@randall>
	<SNT123-W19BABD7BC86E88311C07A3E14F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4CD74CE0.5010506@gmail.com>

On 11/7/10 5:29 PM, Rich White wrote:

> I'm in the middle of the great unwashed middle of the country, but I have not
> seen anything except the huge round bales for several years.
> I think they have also signaled the end of the hay loft in the barns.

The big commercial folks get the big round bales but the country is 
still full of folks who have 10 or less horses or mules, a few sheep or 
goats who would have no way to carry one of those big bales in the back 
of their pickup.

Just go to any local feed store and check out the bales they sell to 
hobby farmers & ranchers.

Teriann

Who is still sad that she sent the mule to a new home.

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Sun Nov  7 18:17:50 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 20:17:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
In-Reply-To: <11a96c.5c5c17cc.3a088af6@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20101108011706.59E1F187886@autox.team.net>

I'd say both, but on my return trip with the Triumph (down to Woodbridge,
Va., followed by a nice drive on Skyline Drive and Blue Ridge Parkway to and
from Roanoke, then back to Philly) I went the long way around: I-66 to I-81
to the Pa Tpke.  The speeds were about the same, but the drivers wanting to
go faster just passed me.

BobW

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Sunday, 07 November, 2010 6:07 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Another view of the hobby

In a message dated 11/7/2010 3:27:35 PM Central Standard Time,
rawanderer at comcast.net writes: 
> Tell THAT to the folks on I-95 between Philadelphia and DC.
> 
Are they in that big of a hurry to get to DC or to get out of DC?

Dave
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net

From andygraybeal at earthlink.net  Sun Nov  7 18:18:57 2010
From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 17:18:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] bailing wire
Message-ID: <1D01A4A3-29CC-4EE9-82DB-26D9653C879D@earthlink.net>

It seems that duct tape is the new bailing wire, but not so useful in
tying up exhaust pipes.




Andy Graybeal
Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
http://www.triumphtravelers.org/Index.php
andy.graybeal at gmail.com
650.968.6877

o?<

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun Nov  7 18:28:10 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 20:28:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 HubCap Remover Tool
Message-ID: <CF66DB5B477F453997F7EF768FB93E6A@TRGUY>

Anyone have a good used original TR4 hubcap removal tool for a reasonable
price or a good idea on a surrogate tool that works well. Also, looking for
recommendations on vendors with upgraded rear leaf springs for stiffer ride.
This thing rides like a 72 Lincoln :)

Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Nov  7 18:45:38 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 18:45:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] another view..........
In-Reply-To: <4CD74CE0.5010506@gmail.com>
References: <550171.99399.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>,
	<4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>, 
	<00e201cb7ed6$1916b210$0301a8c0@randall><SNT123-W19BABD7BC86E88311C07A3E14F0@phx.gbl>
	<4CD74CE0.5010506@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <054017D0740B4F3DBF51087CE0DCF73C@bboffice>

Terriann,
You can come by and visit our Donkeys and the mules across the street(and
pygmy goats too) anytime you are out on US-40!
Bill

PS-My last post on this very non-TR subject.


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2010 6:06 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] another view..........

On 11/7/10 5:29 PM, Rich White wrote:

> I'm in the middle of the great unwashed middle of the country, but I 
> have not seen anything except the huge round bales for several years.
> I think they have also signaled the end of the hay loft in the barns.

The big commercial folks get the big round bales but the country is still
full of folks who have 10 or less horses or mules, a few sheep or goats who
would have no way to carry one of those big bales in the back of their
pickup.

Just go to any local feed store and check out the bales they sell to hobby
farmers & ranchers.

Teriann

Who is still sad that she sent the mule to a new home.
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Nov  7 18:51:49 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 20:51:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] bailing wire
In-Reply-To: <1D01A4A3-29CC-4EE9-82DB-26D9653C879D@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4CD71165.4064.4451C132@localhost>

On 7 Nov 2010 at 17:18, Andy Graybeal wrote:

> It seems that duct tape is the new bailing wire, but not so useful in
> tying up exhaust pipes.

Duct tape is like the Force.  It has a light side and a dark side and 
it holds the Universe together.

And I've mostly got the GT6's gearbox back together.  So there is 
some LBC content here after all.  Just in time for freezing weather 
to hit.  Timing is everything.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Nov  7 19:19:57 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 20:19:57 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Manifold
Message-ID: <12963667.546638.1289182797818.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

The exterior isn't a problem.  I am concerned about the grunge inside and whether it would be pulled into the engine and create problems.   I keep kicking myself for not buying a blast cabinet years ago.  I am almost done now and really won't have the need going forward - but in hindsight... shudda.  I'll take it to a buddy next week sometime.
 
Regardless of the M-UK misnumbering.. I have what I need albeit without the 'boss' - but I already have one too many of those....   Sure wish I could afford to retire. but, hey - "the recession is over"  hrmph.
 
Since I couldn't finish up the carb linkage - I decided to tackle the wiper motor.   Had 4 in various shades of working.  The only motor that turned was on a DR3A - wasn't sure of compatibility (now I find out it is the same degree) so I cannabalized the three DR2's & the one DR3 to get the right parts for one.  Just finished putting it together and voila - it worked....  Too late to get it installed tonight but I feel like the day wasn't a complete waste...  I may take the square housing back off and have it powder coated.  It is a dark silver hammerite but is showing its age (bd: 8/60).
 
Thanks again.


Nov 8, 2010 12:38:00 AM, TR3driver at ca.rr.com wrote:

Randall babbled:
> Also wrong description I believe. According to my 
> information it was fitted
> to 100 engines starting at TS16801E,

I of course meant CT16801E.

> through the end of TR4A production.

Also my mistake, my TR4A SPC shows P/N 307455.

But the Moss UK listing is still clearly wrong. They left out the early TR3
low port manifold entirely (P/N 302118), and the cylinder head introduced at
TS9350E was the "Le Mans" head, still a low port design. TS13052E was the
introduction of the "high port" head.

Cleaning would depend on condition; I would probably degrease first and then
use glass bead blasting. But generally I just clean up the mating surfaces
with a file and install it "as found" otherwise 

Randall
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From cwnfot at gmail.com  Sun Nov  7 19:24:25 2010
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 21:24:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] '62-'63 XKE bonnet needed
Message-ID: <000601cb7eec$11603350$342099f0$@com>

Just on the chance someone here may have a lead.

 

My friend had a woman talking on her cell phone in an SUV clobber him in his
beautiful flat-floor E-type.

Apparently there are no new production bonnets available at the moment in
the UK (they are apparently still making them these days).

Any help locating a nice one or new one will be appreciated!

 

You can contact Frank Filangeri directly at filafrank @ gmail . com

He's on Long Island, NY

 

 

Clark

Clark W. Nicholls

1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new
owner

"Reality, it's not what you think."

From dkspence at telus.net  Sun Nov  7 19:26:48 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 19:26:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] photos of Triumphs now KN Minator alloy wheels with chromed
 steel centers bearing Rudge splines.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B635FBD4-E192-4B78-B252-DA5FB23B94D0@telus.net>

Anyone know what size, offset etc to fit a TR4A?

TIA
On 6-Nov-10, at 1:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: pethier at comcast.net
> Date: November 5, 2010 8:20:16 PM MDT (CA)
> To: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
> Cc: triumphs2 TRlist <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] photos of Triumphs
>
>
>> From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
>> I think the wheels on that green TR4A may be the center lock minilite
>> replica wheels in the Moss catalog with the standard 2-eared
>> knockoffs.  Just my wag guess.
>
> Yes.  KN Minator alloy wheels with chromed steel centers bearing  
> Rudge splines.  Pull off your wire wheel, plunk on your alloy wheel  
> and use the same knock-off cap.  Made in the UK.  The only problem I  
> have seen with them is that the centers have been known to rust.
>
> BTW, I like the leaves plastered in the grille, too.
>
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA

From maya2blue at juno.com  Sun Nov  7 19:52:25 2010
From: maya2blue at juno.com (Harve B Thorn)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 20:52:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] wire and hay bales
Message-ID: <20101107.205230.1380.0.maya2blue@juno.com>

I still buy straw bales bound with wire for my dog kennels.....


harve thorn
fayetteville,ar

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov  7 20:02:10 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 19:02:10 -0800
Subject: [TR] bailing wire
In-Reply-To: <4CD71165.4064.4451C132@localhost>
References: <1D01A4A3-29CC-4EE9-82DB-26D9653C879D@earthlink.net>
	<4CD71165.4064.4451C132@localhost>
Message-ID: <011c01cb7ef1$5670eb10$0301a8c0@randall>

> Duct tape is like the Force.  It has a light side and a dark side and 
> it holds the Universe together.
> 
> And I've mostly got the GT6's gearbox back together. 

Ok, I'll bite ... how much of it is held together with duct tape?

-- Randall  

From chandler.rick at comcast.net  Sun Nov  7 20:11:43 2010
From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 19:11:43 -0800
Subject: [TR]  TR3 Carbs
Message-ID: <132D476CB4B44BBFB40B7725C74074BB@RickPC>

HS6 carbs have a shorter throat than the H6 carbs, and were intended to be
mounted on the TR4A intake manifold, which has a longer throat. While the
HS6s will mount on the TR3 manifolds, I believe that the mixing length is
wrong, and I would be surprised if that combination would be efficient. I
have HS6s on my TR3A, but I also have the TR4A manifolds mounted (both
exhaust and intake, as they are intertwined); this combination fits nicely
in the TR3 engine compartment. Jeff at Paltech can provide the linkage for
the HS6s, which require a center-pull arrangement. The HS6s are really easy
to tune and operate, but retrofitting them to a TR3 requires a bit more than
meets the eye, both in effort and in expense. 

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3 

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Nov  7 21:12:43 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2010 23:12:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR PARTS COULD TRAVEL TO LA AREA
Message-ID: <8CD4D1253813EEC-1790-B9C9@Webmail-d106.sysops.aol.com>

 RANDALL ET.AL.,

I know that you have been getting rid of stuff to make more room in your
garage.

I am too. If there was something you wanted, you could fill it up again.

I should be along the coast line next week, starting with Oceanside, going to
Goleta.

Traveling Iowa to California.

Really heavy stuff hard to ship could be had.....I have a TR4 short bubble
hood, a TR6 rear end, TR3/TR6 Transmissions.....four good 165-15 tires. I will
likely stay in a motel near Huntington Beach a week from tomorrow.

Still have empty trailer going back.

BTW LIST,   THE KASTNER CUP will be held at Leguna Seca next June.

Joe A

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Nov  7 22:06:01 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 05:06:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] photos of Triumphs now KN Minator alloy wheels with
 chromed steel centers bearing Rudge splines.
In-Reply-To: <1408335078.668492.1289192749596.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <129507061.668500.1289192761545.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: "Don" <dkspence at telus.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, November 7, 2010 8:26:48 PM
> Subject: [TR] photos of Triumphs now KN Minator alloy wheels with chromed steel centers bearing Rudge splines.
> 
> Anyone know what size, offset etc to fit a TR4A?

Far as I know, there are no width or offset choices.  You order a 15" wheel and slide it on.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From dkspence at telus.net  Sun Nov  7 22:13:44 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 22:13:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] prestige auto tops?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net>

Same again, anyone with experience with this company's products, (Top,  
carpet)

Thanks

From dkspence at telus.net  Sun Nov  7 22:14:12 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 22:14:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stock Interiors .com?????
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <14147C76-4FF6-46A4-9451-863C7BDB62AA@telus.net>

Does anyone have any experience with this company? Carpets Tops??

TIA

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Mon Nov  8 03:41:23 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 05:41:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Hub Cap Remover tool
Message-ID: <AANLkTikxHxZy_+17q0F2-ANuoS-ajy_SdWY7s32Th_=V@mail.gmail.com>

Jim,

I made one from an old screwdriver. Heated with a propane torch, it needed
two bends that I approximated from photos of the Triumph part. Note 'old'
screwdriver. I tried a newer one and when cherry red-hot, it snapped rather
than take a bend. Must be some alloy that becomes brittle when hot. The old
tool as malleable when hot.

Try that, or if you want to email me your address, you can have mine. I have
since switched to wires. That should tide you over until you get an
original.

Now where did I put that ... ?

Brian Jones
Valley Forge PA

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Nov  8 05:37:00 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 07:37:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Stock Interiors .com?????
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<14147C76-4FF6-46A4-9451-863C7BDB62AA@telus.net>
Message-ID: <7AC760DB81714873A07C9C596ECCF277@Alan>

I've seen one of their canvas tops and it was very nice.

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don" <dkspence at telus.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 12:14 AM
Subject: [TR] Stock Interiors .com?????


> Does anyone have any experience with this company? Carpets Tops??
>
> TIA
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Nov  8 05:44:57 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 07:44:57 EST
Subject: [TR] another view..........
Message-ID: <e4c4e.57c854a1.3a094ac9@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/7/2010 6:51:39 PM Central Standard Time, 
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> I think they have also signaled the end of the hay loft in the barns.
> 
Those are full of old car parts anyway.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Nov  8 05:50:15 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 07:50:15 EST
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
Message-ID: <e4fa5.6f5f6711.3a094c07@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/7/2010 7:17:43 PM Central Standard Time, 
rawanderer at comcast.net writes: 
> I'd say both, but on my return trip with the Triumph (down to Woodbridge,
> Va., followed by a nice drive on Skyline Drive and Blue Ridge Parkway to 
> and
> from Roanoke, then back to Philly) I went the long way around: I-66 to 
> I-81
> to the Pa Tpke.  The speeds were about the same, but the drivers wanting 
> to
> go faster just passed me.
> 
> 
Traffic was slower on I75.  I kept the speed just below 80 (for the most 
part) and only a small proportion of the traffic passed me and not by a whole 
lot.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Nov  8 06:02:14 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 08:02:14 EST
Subject: [TR] '62-'63 XKE bonnet needed
Message-ID: <e5710.4c7a6e24.3a094ed6@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/7/2010 8:52:31 PM Central Standard Time, 
cwnfot at gmail.com writes: 
> My friend had a woman talking on her cell phone in an SUV clobber him in 
> his
> beautiful flat-floor E-type.
> 
> Apparently there are no new production bonnets available at the moment in
> the UK (they are apparently still making them these days).
> 
My condolences and good luck.  You can buy a pretty nice Triumph for what 
one of those bonnets cost.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Nov  8 06:37:33 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 08:37:33 EST
Subject: [TR] Acceleration Stumble
Message-ID: <e72ee.3044daa5.3a09571d@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/7/2010 6:38:16 PM Central Standard Time, 
rbtr3a at cox.net writes: 
> Things I've checked.  Good spark
> Nice tan plugs 1st and 4th. Running a  pertronics. Good fuel flow. New 
> gas. Running about 13 degrees before or after. Can't remember (to the left of 
> pointer from front view)
> 

Ronnie, check your plug gap.  The ignition system doesn't like gaps much 
bigger than the factory specified .025.  I had a stumble on acceleration and 
regapping cleared it up.  This may not be the problem but it is easy and 
cheap to check.

Dave

From mmarr at notwires.com  Mon Nov  8 07:08:21 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 08:08:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] another view..........
References: <550171.99399.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <12471F9CAEB744478D9C6CB0BFE61F38@trigeni.com>

I loaded a lot of hay bales back in the early 70s and they were all tied 
with twine.  I spent a lot of time studying (and marvelling at) the knot 
tying mechanism on the baler (which was a late 60's John Deere).

Mike

----- Original Message -----
> Now that I think of it, in the last five or so years I've only bought hay 
> tied with twine and not baling wire.  New breed of bailers?
>
> Teriann

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Nov  8 07:11:34 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 09:11:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] prestige auto tops?
In-Reply-To: <E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net>
Message-ID: <EA589AC5CF254627BB1CA483055B2F95@BobPC>

If you're talking about http://www.prestigeautotops.com  I've had their 
Mohair top on my car for about 10 years now and it still looks and fits 
great.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Don" <dkspence at telus.net>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 12:13 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] prestige auto tops?

> Same again, anyone with experience with this company's products, (Top, 
> carpet)
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Nov  8 08:04:21 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 09:04:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  prestige auto tops?
In-Reply-To: <EA589AC5CF254627BB1CA483055B2F95@BobPC>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net><E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net>
	<EA589AC5CF254627BB1CA483055B2F95@BobPC>
Message-ID: <FD4FB19AB71B45479CB58A484648C7D0@ranteer.local>

?I'm going to weigh in here.  I have one of their tops on my tr6 and I hate 
it.  its not really designed for the car, doesn't really fit, only has one 
zipper instead of two on the back window, and I would never ever ever order 
anything from them

------------------------------------------  

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Nov  8 08:21:53 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 15:21:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
In-Reply-To: <F7074557E25E42128825D32847798A4A@bboffice>
Message-ID: <449219375.679817.1289229713832.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: wbeech at flash.net
> 
> Great thought Jeff, thanks for sharing.  
> 
> Listers, if your ever headed out US-40 through Heber City, UT give a
> call
> and I'll stop what I doing to share a cup of coffee and a chat, the
> pot is
> always on somewhere in town.
> 
> Bill Beecher

Don't think he's kidding, folks.  When a buddy and I flew to SLC to pick up my Elise, Bill met us at the airport and took us to the seller's house.  Then we went to his barn and Bill pulled out the TR3.  We had a great time with both cars all day.  We did the local Cars and Coffee thing with Bill the next day and he sent us on our way happy.

Thanks again, Bill!  

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Nov  8 08:31:32 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 15:31:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] another view.......... of hay bales
In-Reply-To: <4CD728E7.6050107@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2094997116.680545.1289230292748.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
> Now that I think of it, in the last five or so years I've only bought
> hay tied with twine and not baling wire.  New breed of bailers?
> 
> Teriann

When I was a kid in the late 1950s, the hay bales we got in Minnesota were tied with twine.

We had a loft, too.  

That part of Saint Paul (yes, we had an old houwe and two barns on seven acres in the city limits) is now suburban-type houses build in the sixties.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Nov  8 08:53:25 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 10:53:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  prestige auto tops?
In-Reply-To: <FD4FB19AB71B45479CB58A484648C7D0@ranteer.local>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net><E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net><EA589AC5CF254627BB1CA483055B2F95@BobPC>
	<FD4FB19AB71B45479CB58A484648C7D0@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <DF96AB38585944E0870F62F1E15DA890@BobPC>

The first thing that comes to mind is........... did you bring this to their 
attention and what was the response? Did you have the top professionally 
installed or was it a DIY project? This was a project that I gave to the 
pros to do.  As I said before, I have the mohair top which fits great and 
has only one zipper on the rear window but what difference does that make? 
The window still unzips.....

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org



--------------------------------------------------
From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 10:04 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  prestige auto tops?

> ?I'm going to weigh in here.  I have one of their tops on my tr6 and I 
> hate it.  its not really designed for the car, doesn't really fit, only 
> has one zipper instead of two on the back window, and I would never ever 
> ever order anything from them
>
> ------------------------------------------  
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Nov  8 08:56:55 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Mon, 08 Nov 2010 09:56:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?prestige_auto_tops=3F?=
Message-ID: <20101108155609.0E29518767C@autox.team.net>

I've used prestige tops with satisfaction as to fit and finish. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Don" <dkspence at telus.net>
Date: Sun, Nov 7, 2010 23:13
Subject: [TR] prestige auto tops?
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Same again, anyone with experience with this company's products, (Top, carpet)

Thanks
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Nov  8 09:09:41 2010
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 08 Nov 2010 09:09:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] another view.......... of hay bales
In-Reply-To: <2094997116.680545.1289230292748.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2094997116.680545.1289230292748.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4CD820C5.4000605@dfn.com>

> When I was a kid in the late 1950s, the hay bales we got in Minnesota were tied with twine.
>
> We had a loft, too.
>
> That part of Saint Paul (yes, we had an old houwe and two barns on seven acres in the city limits) is now suburban-type houses build in the sixties.


Oh, as Phil says, they've been around for some time.  The dairy farmer 
for whom I worked in the early `60s used twine, as did the dude ranch I 
worked on in the `70s.  For small rectangular bales (less than 110#), it 
works fine, and is easier on the hands when handling, the balers 
themselves aren't as much of a maintenance headache, and if the 
livestock ingest pieces of twine, it just goes right through them, 
unlike bits of wire.  Wire may still be used universally for the big 
600# round bales, though.


Cheers.




-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Nov  8 10:00:27 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 11:00:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  [SPAM] Re:  prestige auto tops?
In-Reply-To: <DF96AB38585944E0870F62F1E15DA890@BobPC>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net><E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net><EA589AC5CF254627BB1CA483055B2F95@BobPC><FD4FB19AB71B45479CB58A484648C7D0@ranteer.local>
	<DF96AB38585944E0870F62F1E15DA890@BobPC>
Message-ID: <639C29EA390D4EE8BA2DFBC97FB7C00D@ranteer.local>

?I had it professionally done.  their warranty says no return if it is 
installed.  after spending $300 on having it installed I wasn't too thrilled 
about going through that again.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 9:53 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  prestige auto tops?

> The first thing that comes to mind is........... did you bring this to 
> their attention and what was the response? Did you have the top 
> professionally installed or was it a DIY project? This was a project that 
> I gave to the pros to do.  As I said before, I have the mohair top which 
> fits great and has only one zipper on the rear window but what difference 
> does that make? The window still unzips.....

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Nov  8 10:15:00 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 10:15:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] another view..........
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12819.1289180717.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.12819.1289180717.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <15A45227-1B35-47DA-8037-3E82221A8FAB@telus.net>

And at 1000+ pounds each there is no more bale chucking... or laying  
them around the foundation for insulation.


On 7-Nov-10, at 6:45 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
> Date: November 7, 2010 5:29:17 PM MST (CA)
> To: TR owners List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] another view..........
>
>
> I want to thank Randall for typing and sending my response! %^)
> That is exactly what I was thinking.
>
> I'm in the middle of the great unwashed middle of the country, but  
> I have not
> seen anything except the huge round bales for several years.
> I think they have also signaled the end of the hay loft in the barns.

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Nov  8 10:30:02 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 12:30:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] prestige auto tops?
In-Reply-To: <E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	<E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net>
Message-ID: <BLU156-w35CF2B8F03D854B6857ADBA4F0@phx.gbl>

Had one of their tops installed on my TR8 this spring. Like it just fine,
would do it again.

Marty

> From: dkspence at telus.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 22:13:44 -0700
> Subject: [TR] prestige auto tops?
>
> Same again, anyone with experience with this company's products, (Top,
> carpet)
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trmarty at hotmail.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Nov  8 10:46:27 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 12:46:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  [SPAM] Re:  prestige auto tops?
In-Reply-To: <639C29EA390D4EE8BA2DFBC97FB7C00D@ranteer.local>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net><E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net><EA589AC5CF254627BB1CA483055B2F95@BobPC><FD4FB19AB71B45479CB58A484648C7D0@ranteer.local><DF96AB38585944E0870F62F1E15DA890@BobPC>
	<639C29EA390D4EE8BA2DFBC97FB7C00D@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <72E5FFC23D1947D09BD7480F1E1CE91A@BobPC>

Maybe things have changed but no mention of no returns here: 
http://www.prestigeautotops.com/acatalog/info.html   In fact they have a 
"Guarantee Precise Fit" and this is a great statement "Under normal 
circumstances every top will fit precisely but not everyone can fit a top 
precisely. Claims for poor fit are 99.9% installation issues"  Did your 
installer work with them to get it to fit right?


--------------------------------------------------
From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 12:00 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  [SPAM] Re:  prestige auto tops?

> ?I had it professionally done.  their warranty says no return if it is 
> installed.  after spending $300 on having it installed I wasn't too 
> thrilled about going through that again.
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 9:53 AM
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [SPAM] Re: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  prestige auto tops?
>
>> The first thing that comes to mind is........... did you bring this to 
>> their attention and what was the response? Did you have the top 
>> professionally installed or was it a DIY project? This was a project that 
>> I gave to the pros to do.  As I said before, I have the mohair top which 
>> fits great and has only one zipper on the rear window but what difference 
>> does that make? The window still unzips.....
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Nov  8 12:18:32 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 19:18:32 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] another view.......... of hay bales
In-Reply-To: <4CD820C5.4000605@dfn.com>
References: <2094997116.680545.1289230292748.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4CD820C5.4000605@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <265879.38979.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

The way things are developing on this thread - baler twine versus wire -
there's 
a legitimate excuse to include the Ferguson tractor :)

Jonmac
________________________________
From: Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com>
To:
pethier at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 8 November, 2010
16:09:41
Subject: Re: [TR] another view.......... of hay bales

> When I was a
kid in the late 1950s, the hay bales we got in Minnesota were tied 
>with
twine.
> 
> We had a loft, too.
> 
> That part of Saint Paul (yes, we had an
old houwe and two barns on seven acres 
>in the city limits) is now
suburban-type houses build in the sixties.


Oh, as Phil says, they've been
around for some time.  The dairy farmer for whom 
I worked in the early `60s
used twine, as did the dude ranch I worked on in the 
`70s.  For small
rectangular bales (less than 110#), it works fine, and is 
easier on the hands
when handling, the balers themselves aren't as much of a 
maintenance
headache, and if the livestock ingest pieces of twine, it just goes 
right
through them, unlike bits of wire.  Wire may still be used universally for
the big 600# round bales, though.


Cheers.




-- 

Michael Porter
Roswell,
NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
distance....
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Nov  8 12:37:08 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 19:37:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] another view.......... of hay bales
In-Reply-To: <265879.38979.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2066894613.699240.1289245027983.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- Original Message -----

> From: "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
> To: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>, pethier at comcast.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, November 8, 2010 1:18:32 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] another view.......... of hay bales
> 
> The way things are developing on this thread - baler twine versus wire
> - there's a legitimate excuse to include the Ferguson tractor :)

And also the use of haybales at sports-car races!



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Nov  8 15:54:22 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 15:54:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 HubCap Remover Tool
In-Reply-To: <CF66DB5B477F453997F7EF768FB93E6A@TRGUY>
References: <CF66DB5B477F453997F7EF768FB93E6A@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin=o8mKVnk=tN9kdVzz1gVnZ3BjHz1uLFEHadFe@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/7/10, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> Anyone have a good used original TR4 hubcap removal tool for a reasonable
> price or a good idea on a surrogate tool that works well.

I usually use a claw hammer, looks nasty but really does a good job of
popping them off gently & w/o marks.  For on the road I carry the
smallest pry bar from the Harbor Freight pry bar set but with the
corners and edges rounded to make it kinder/gentler.

Geo

From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Nov  8 17:48:33 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Mon, 08 Nov 2010 18:48:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4_HubCap_Remover_Tool?=
Message-ID: <20101109004746.697A918764B@autox.team.net>

Guys,
Go to a morris minor parts supplier like mini city. The morris minor used the same little tool, and you stand no chance of hurting a wheel or cap.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Date: Mon, Nov 8, 2010 16:54
Subject: [TR] TR4 HubCap Remover Tool
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>


On 11/7/10, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> Anyone have a good used original TR4 hubcap removal tool for a reasonable
> price or a good idea on a surrogate tool that works well.

I usually use a claw hammer, looks nasty but really does a good job of
popping them off gently & w/o marks.  For on the road I carry the
smallest pry bar from the Harbor Freight pry bar set but with the
corners and edges rounded to make it kinder/gentler.

Geo
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Mon Nov  8 19:59:14 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 18:59:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] prestige auto tops?- part deux
In-Reply-To: <DF96AB38585944E0870F62F1E15DA890@BobPC>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net><E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net><EA589AC5CF254627BB1CA483055B2F95@BobPC>
	<FD4FB19AB71B45479CB58A484648C7D0@ranteer.local>
	<DF96AB38585944E0870F62F1E15DA890@BobPC>
Message-ID: <003601cb7fba$18474680$48d5d380$@rr.com>

I would love to have a window that unzips on my tr4a (one zipper or two -
don't care). Anybody know a company that does?

Which leads me to a bigger question - what's the real difference between a
tr4a, a tr250 and tr6 top? I know the fastening methods to the windshield
frame is a little different but, can I fit a tr6 top to a tr4a? Anybody done
this? I'm willing to change hoodsticks if needed to get a zippered rear
window.

Johnnie

As I said before, I have the mohair top which fits great
> and
> has only one zipper on the rear window but what difference does that
> make?
> The window still unzips.....

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Nov  8 23:20:16 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 23:20:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Another view of the hobby
In-Reply-To: <449219375.679817.1289229713832.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <F7074557E25E42128825D32847798A4A@bboffice>
	<449219375.679817.1289229713832.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <115406FD0ECB43C6B89EAAFD2BBFAD0A@bboffice>

Phil et al,

You should have been here a few weeks ago when the Dodge Vipers had there
national meeting.  Imagine a stock TR3 leading a bunch of Vipers over some
of these great mountain roads.  Tons of fun and a real workout for the
little TR!

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: pethier at comcast.net [mailto:pethier at comcast.net] 
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 8:22 AM
To: wbeech at flash.net
Cc: Jeff Scarbrough; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Another view of the hobby

> From: wbeech at flash.net
> 
> Great thought Jeff, thanks for sharing.  
> 
> Listers, if your ever headed out US-40 through Heber City, UT give a 
> call and I'll stop what I doing to share a cup of coffee and a chat, 
> the pot is always on somewhere in town.
> 
> Bill Beecher

Don't think he's kidding, folks.  When a buddy and I flew to SLC to pick up
my Elise, Bill met us at the airport and took us to the seller's house.
Then we went to his barn and Bill pulled out the TR3.  We had a great time
with both cars all day.  We did the local Cars and Coffee thing with Bill
the next day and he sent us on our way happy.

Thanks again, Bill!  

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Nov  9 02:44:57 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 09:44:57 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] prestige auto tops?- part deux
In-Reply-To: <003601cb7fba$18474680$48d5d380$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net><E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net><EA589AC5CF254627BB1CA483055B2F95@BobPC>
	<FD4FB19AB71B45479CB58A484648C7D0@ranteer.local>
	<DF96AB38585944E0870F62F1E15DA890@BobPC>
	<003601cb7fba$18474680$48d5d380$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <208432.83365.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

John Donnelly wrote:



 can I fit a tr6 top to a tr4a? Anybody done
this? I'm
willing to change hoodsticks if needed to get a zippered rear
window.

An
emphatic Yes!  I did this using a 1969 TR6 top with zip going on to a 1966
4A. It required a certain amount of trimming to fit the 6 top over the 4A
screen 
rail - but it wasn't rocket science or difficult, just tedious. Did
this in 1970 
and also took the opportunity of substituting those useless
plastic snaps for 
the far more effective metal ones. A week later, the car
was stolen and never 
recovered!!!!

Jonmac

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Nov  9 05:28:28 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 12:28:28 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Seventy years ago today...
Message-ID: <306435.51606.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Knowing there are a number of "history buffs" on this list, I thought I'd just
point out that today is rather significant in terms of the Triumph name.

It's
all a long time ago now - and national 'differences' have thankfully long
been put to one side and will hopefully remain that way. It's important to say
that, as I'm anxious to avoid accusations of emnity and continuation of
hostility. The point of this post is to remember that the *original* Triumph
factory in Coventry - not the later one at Canley which made postwar Triumphs,
was obliterated on the night of 14th November 1940, as part of the Blitzkrieg
in 
WW2. For those of you who have visited Coventry Cathedral as it stands
today, 
the Chapel of Unity is about as close as you can get to the site of
the old 
Triumph car plant off Priory Street. If you want to see what the
Chapel looks 
like today, Google on Coventry Cathedral and then search within
results for 
Chapel of Unity.
I'm proud to say that my maternal grandfather
visited the cathedral on the 
morning following the attack and extracted some
nails of the former 14th century 
roof out of the still smouldering wreckage.
He put them (still warm from the 
fire) into his lunchbox, took them to work
and welded them into a simple Cross 
which he later gave to the Bishop of
Coventry. A (larger) replica of that same 
Cross was then made from larger and
similar nails and this is now to be found on 
the High Altar of the new
Cathedral. Sometime after the war and in a gesture of 
reconciliation,
Coventry Cathedral had another similar Cross made and this was 
presented to
the Frauenkirche Cathedral of Dresden in Germany, in recognition of 
the
British and US Air Force raid on that city during February 13-14, 1945. That
attack saw 773 Avro Lancasters and 527 USAAF heavy bombers taking part and
created perhaps the worst firestorm of WW2 in which many tens of thousands of
people lost their lives.

Lest we forget 'the larger picture' in pursuit of
our hobby

Jonmac

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Nov  9 08:13:28 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 08:13:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Seventy years ago today...
In-Reply-To: <306435.51606.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <306435.51606.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <044DC2821D194746AB6EB176F54453A5@bboffice>

John,

Thanks for the bit of history lesson, there was a documentary on the
blitzkrieg just recently here on the PBS channel, very devastating indeed.
I had always thought that the immediate London area was all that was hit on
that raid, so I learned something new today.

With Veteran's Day just a couple of days off here in the US, this will be
something else to remember along with the honor for all the men and women to
whom we owe a great debt of thanks.

To all on this list who have served, thank you for your service to your
country!

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2010 5:28 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Seventy years ago today...

Knowing there are a number of "history buffs" on this list, I thought I'd
just point out that today is rather significant in terms of the Triumph
name.

It's
all a long time ago now - and national 'differences' have thankfully long
been put to one side and will hopefully remain that way. It's important to
say that, as I'm anxious to avoid accusations of emnity and continuation of
hostility. The point of this post is to remember that the *original* Triumph
factory in Coventry - not the later one at Canley which made postwar
Triumphs, was obliterated on the night of 14th November 1940, as part of the
Blitzkrieg in WW2. For those of you who have visited Coventry Cathedral as
it stands today, the Chapel of Unity is about as close as you can get to the
site of the old Triumph car plant off Priory Street. If you want to see what
the Chapel looks like today, Google on Coventry Cathedral and then search
within results for Chapel of Unity.
I'm proud to say that my maternal grandfather visited the cathedral on the
morning following the attack and extracted some nails of the former 14th
century roof out of the still smouldering wreckage.
He put them (still warm from the
fire) into his lunchbox, took them to work and welded them into a simple
Cross which he later gave to the Bishop of Coventry. A (larger) replica of
that same Cross was then made from larger and similar nails and this is now
to be found on the High Altar of the new Cathedral. Sometime after the war
and in a gesture of reconciliation, Coventry Cathedral had another similar
Cross made and this was presented to the Frauenkirche Cathedral of Dresden
in Germany, in recognition of the British and US Air Force raid on that city
during February 13-14, 1945. That attack saw 773 Avro Lancasters and 527
USAAF heavy bombers taking part and created perhaps the worst firestorm of
WW2 in which many tens of thousands of people lost their lives.

Lest we forget 'the larger picture' in pursuit of our hobby

Jonmac
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov  9 08:26:50 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 07:26:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT but possibly general interest - Where is Wayne Brazinski
Message-ID: <009f01cb8022$883ccb00$0301a8c0@randall>

Did anyone else get an email purporting to be from Wayne Brazinski, stranded
in Wales?

If so, I would suggest you not respond until it can be authenticated.  It
came from an IP address in Nigeria ...

-- Randall 

From mcmeganutt at aol.com  Tue Nov  9 09:07:44 2010
From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 11:07:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 For Sale
Message-ID: <8CD4E3F607C7B62-EF4-950@webmail-d092.sysops.aol.com>

Hi, Passing this for sale request on, car is in Bolton,CT. NFI. Fred

I have a 1974 TR-6 brown in color. It is in very good cond. Runs very well and
has approximately 75,000 org. miles. I have rebuilt the trans., new rear
brakes, new clutch, master cyl. for both the clutch and brakes, new
alternator, belts, & hoses. I want $7,000 for the car (I have about $7,500+
into it)
If you have any other questions feel free to give me a call, Call Tim at
860-659-9645 or email at twhite at gmail.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Nov  9 09:25:52 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 09:25:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] prestige auto tops?- part deux
In-Reply-To: <003601cb7fba$18474680$48d5d380$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net>
	<EA589AC5CF254627BB1CA483055B2F95@BobPC>
	<FD4FB19AB71B45479CB58A484648C7D0@ranteer.local>
	<DF96AB38585944E0870F62F1E15DA890@BobPC>
	<003601cb7fba$18474680$48d5d380$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=MCL+3FPQpiGDnP0QMCLG_T0RzyOtEDbs_AWTw@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/8/10, John & Pat Donnelly <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com> wrote:
> I would love to have a window that unzips on my tr4a (one zipper or two -
> don't care). Anybody know a company that does?

LBARCO sells them...

http://www.lbcarco.com/

Their website has changed and I had trouble finding the tops -- if I
read it right they now have tops that are for TR2-TR4A.  Hmmm.
Nevertheless, a call to them should reveal the truth.

I have one of their TR4 Zipper-Window tops that I got 2nd hand from a
lister here and really enjoy being able to open that rear window.  I
also really enjoy no top at all but when the wife agrees to a 1000
mile trip in AZ sunshine & wind it makes for a happier weekend with a
top overhead:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR4%20Zip%20Top.JPG

Geo

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Tue Nov  9 09:35:40 2010
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 08:35:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT but possibly general interest - Where is Wayne
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F119C62A6@kb1.mossmotors.com>

>Did anyone else get an email purporting to be from Wayne Brazinski,
stranded in Wales?


That is a scam going around - my wife was hit.
An e-mail address is hijacked and message sent to address book with some
form of dire trouble that requests please send me some money for bail,
or air fare, or something.
Check with who you suspect is asking first.  We were lucky caught it
almost immediately.  But did find out we had a lot of friends willing to
send money on a moments notice, luckily they did a follow up first.

Peter

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Nov  9 09:39:00 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 09:39:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] prestige auto tops?- part deux
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=MCL+3FPQpiGDnP0QMCLG_T0RzyOtEDbs_AWTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.4.1289070002.18886.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<E6D93735-BAD0-4DB6-A8E5-652251F9F1E3@telus.net>
	<EA589AC5CF254627BB1CA483055B2F95@BobPC>
	<FD4FB19AB71B45479CB58A484648C7D0@ranteer.local>
	<DF96AB38585944E0870F62F1E15DA890@BobPC>
	<003601cb7fba$18474680$48d5d380$@rr.com>
	<AANLkTi=MCL+3FPQpiGDnP0QMCLG_T0RzyOtEDbs_AWTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin8hHRSW2DW83OvyEcVQb1kM=ZPkk6WA6X+BpG0@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/9/10, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
> LBARCO sells them...

Oops, it appears that 'sold them' would have been more accurate.

I found the link from 90 days ago when they still listed them:

http://www.lbcarco.com/cgi-bin/gen5?nextform=/tops.html&o=&a=&t=_top#H7_TOP

...but the zippered 4 & 4A top no longer appear.

Still, a call might be worthwhile.

Geo

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Nov  9 09:51:12 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 09 Nov 2010 10:51:12 -0600
Subject: [TR]
	=?utf-8?q?OT_but_possibly_general_interest_-_Where_is_Wayne?=
Message-ID: <20101109165025.C90A8187672@autox.team.net>

Those Nigerians. For a group so inventive, they have a s hole of a country. Sheesh.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Arakelian, Peter" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, Nov 9, 2010 10:35
Subject: [TR] OT but possibly general interest - Where is Wayne
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

>Did anyone else get an email purporting to be from Wayne Brazinski,
stranded in Wales?


That is a scam going around - my wife was hit.
An e-mail address is hijacked and message sent to address book with some
form of dire trouble that requests please send me some money for bail,
or air fare, or something.
Check with who you suspect is asking first.  We were lucky caught it
almost immediately.  But did find out we had a lot of friends willing to
send money on a moments notice, luckily they did a follow up first.

Peter
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue Nov  9 09:51:40 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 09:51:40 -0700
Subject: [TR]  prestige auto tops?- part deux
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13153.1289318836.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13153.1289318836.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E7CE8B0E-1B72-44E7-831C-4FCC7B59BB1D@telus.net>

Johnnie

The header clamps (on the windscreen frame) are different. You would  
have to adapt the 4A clamps to the 6 top frame or replace the  
windscreen frame with a TR6 one. Easily done, windscreen replacing  
that is.)  The TR6 top adds side window seals and velcro strips to  
secure the sides of the top fabric to the frame edge as well. less  
drafty.
On 9-Nov-10, at 9:07 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
> Date: November 8, 2010 7:59:14 PM MST (CA)
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] prestige auto tops?- part deux
>
>
> I would love to have a window that unzips on my tr4a (one zipper or  
> two -
> don't care). Anybody know a company that does?
>
> Which leads me to a bigger question - what's the real difference  
> between a
> tr4a, a tr250 and tr6 top? I know the fastening methods to the  
> windshield
> frame is a little different but, can I fit a tr6 top to a tr4a?  
> Anybody done
> this? I'm willing to change hoodsticks if needed to get a zippered  
> rear
> window.
>
> Johnnie

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Nov  9 14:42:15 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 13:42:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
Message-ID: <561371.61279.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Just curious what techniques work for getting the top bows up on a TR3 top after the snaps have been snapped. Every fall I find the top has shrunk a little more which makes for a bunch of head scratching. My best technique for the last couple of years has been to leave the driver's side bottom lift-a-dots unsnapped (the first 3 or 4 behind the door). Then I pull up the top bows easily on the passenger side. Standing outside the driver's door of the old TR3 I can grab the lower part of the top bows and pop the driver's side top bows into place without too much trouble.
     My technique works for me 100% of the time, even in the cold.
     What are the other methods sidescreen listers are using?
     Just wondering.

     Bill in Tehachapi

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov  9 15:11:55 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 14:11:55 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
In-Reply-To: <561371.61279.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <561371.61279.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <050f01cb805b$245dafd0$6d190f70$@rr.com>

>      Just curious what techniques work for getting the top bows up on a
> TR3 top after the snaps have been snapped.

I use two techniques (or did, when I was using a top <G>).  One is to leave
the "dog legs" collapsed while fastening all the snaps, then pull them into
place while standing outside the car (being careful to avoid pinching
fingers!).  ISTR this is even mentioned in the factory literature as the
'proper' method of erecting the top.

The other is to undo the straps from the rearmost bow and leave them that
way.  (The plates can be reinstalled onto the bow without the strap, so they
don't get lost.)  Then the top can be fully installed with the rearmost bow
still forward against the main bow.  Once inside the car, reach over your
head and push the bow back to bring the top snug.  As the top loosens up
(due to warmth and/or flexing), you can push the bow farther back to keep it
tight.  At least in my experience, it will stay in position without the
strap.

-- Randall 

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Nov  9 15:14:17 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 22:14:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
In-Reply-To: <561371.61279.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <213448344.1128944.1289340857745.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

That's what I do, but leaving both sides open just behind the door, 3 or 4
snaps, then erect the bows and snap both sides down.

Tom



----- Original Message -----
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 9, 2010 4:42:15 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting

B B  B  Just curious what techniques work for getting the top bows up on a TR3
top after the snaps have been snapped. Every fall I find the top has shrunk a
little more which makes for a bunch of head scratching. My best technique for
the last couple of years has been to leave the driver's side bottom
lift-a-dots unsnapped (the first 3 or 4 behind the door). Then I pull up the
top bows easily on the passenger side. Standing outside the driver's door of
the old TR3 I can grab the lower part of the top bows and pop the driver's
side top bows into place without too much trouble.
B B  B  My technique works for me 100% of the time, even in the cold.
B B  B  What are the other methods sidescreen listers are using?
B B  B  Just wondering.

B B  B  Bill in Tehachapi

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Tue Nov  9 16:08:07 2010
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 23:08:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
In-Reply-To: <050f01cb805b$245dafd0$6d190f70$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1830694446.735029.1289344087788.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

That's what I did, but on those hot sunny days when the top was required to
keep the passenger from baking, the top would collapse on our heads. Finally,
I took a 2" wide x about 3" long strip of velcro stuck back to back and used a
sewing awl toB fastenB itB to the strap at the spot the plates should be. Now
I can use that rear bar last to lock the sticks in place and then wrap the
velcro around that bar to keep it there. So far so good and it's been a few
years.



Bob



The other is to undo the straps from the rearmost bow and leave them that
way. B (The plates can be reinstalled onto the bow without the strap, so they
don't get lost.) B Then the top can be fully installed with the rearmost bow
still forward against the main bow. B Once inside the car, reach over your
head and push the bow back to bring the top snug. B As the top loosens up
(due to warmth and/or flexing), you can push the bow farther back to keep it
tight. B At least in my experience, it will stay in position without the
strap.

-- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov  9 16:21:06 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 15:21:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
In-Reply-To: <1830694446.735029.1289344087788.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <050f01cb805b$245dafd0$6d190f70$@rr.com>
	<1830694446.735029.1289344087788.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <053401cb8064$c9655f60$5c301e20$@rr.com>

> That's what I did, but on those hot sunny days when the top was
> required to
> keep the passenger from baking, the top would collapse on our heads.

I guess your mileage may vary then.  I had an old white top with the windows
cut out that I used in hot weather and never had a problem with it
collapsing, even on the drive through the desert to VTR in Breckenridge.

-- Randall 

From andygraybeal at earthlink.net  Tue Nov  9 16:24:32 2010
From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 15:24:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] scam: Where is Wayne?
Message-ID: <5FBF7616-62E9-438A-A022-AD325AE59EAC@earthlink.net>

That scam has been going around a lot lately. The scammers phish the
various lists for names to add credibility and word the message
essentially the same, possibly changing the name of the city. I'm on
a neighborhood list and at least three people have been scammed, but
fortunately warned off.




Andy Graybeal
Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
http://www.triumphtravelers.org/Index.php
andy.graybeal at gmail.com
650.968.6877

o?<

From allegrorover at mac.com  Tue Nov  9 17:44:01 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Tue, 09 Nov 2010 19:44:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
In-Reply-To: <561371.61279.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <561371.61279.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A1CCDE04-632F-46C5-9868-EAD6F4026065@mac.com>

I'm not sure what the best method is but I can tell you that whatever one does be careful especially with a cold vinyl top.
A my clubs last show it poured with rain and we all rushed out to put tops up and I cracked my windshield putting mine on......not a happy camper, BUT, I have to tell you that Hagerty Ins covered the replacement!!! Can't say enough about them.
I have a new top that I am going to have fitted in the very near future and I am going to see if he can make it a little looser when he installs the lift the dots.
I don't know if it's possible but I'm going to try it, I don't usually have the top on except for shows and when it rains.
In the past I have just left the bows in the lowered position, installed the top then lifted the bows into the full upright position, always worked in the past.
Good luck
Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Tue Nov  9 17:49:27 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 18:49:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
In-Reply-To: <050f01cb805b$245dafd0$6d190f70$@rr.com>
References: <561371.61279.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>,
	<050f01cb805b$245dafd0$6d190f70$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W55A0885F29B5236B4E75D8E1310@phx.gbl>

I was taught to leave the rearmost bow loose, like Randall described, by a
friend who was a long time LBT owner.  It has been a long time since my car
has been on the road, but when it was I never had a problem with the top.


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Nov  9 18:17:42 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 01:17:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
In-Reply-To: <A1CCDE04-632F-46C5-9868-EAD6F4026065@mac.com>
Message-ID: <1304321339.1033939.1289351862456.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I'm not sure what the best method is but I can tell you that whatever one does be careful especially with a cold vinyl top.

Having had the vinyl top shrinkage experience with the Sprites and MGB I have owned, I decided to try the TRF Sunfast or Stayfast (I forget the name).

I love it.  Definitely as advertised, no shrinkage in 6 years now, although it spends almost all it's time in the trunk  NFI and all that.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Nov  9 18:39:18 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 17:39:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] leaf springs-Polyethylene plastic-teriann wakeman
Message-ID: <448822.45475.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Listers,
I saved a post from Teriann from long long ago concerning leaf springs and the 
use of Polyethylene plastic strips between leaves rather than cleaning up and 
using grease.  TeriAnn had used that method and was very happy with it.  I'm 
wondering if anyone else had done that and do they continue to be happy with the 
results?  Does the plastic ever wear out?  Is there a big difference in ride 
quality with this method either using grease or the plastic?
  
I have my leaves separated and just wanted to check with the list on latest 
info.  I was disappointed in that 3 of the tabs I bent out broke off.  I'm 
assuming I can simply weld them back together and they'll still keep the leaves 
straight.  Makes a person wonder about quality.

thanks!

gary n.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Nov  9 19:32:48 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 09 Nov 2010 19:32:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] leaf springs-Polyethylene plastic-teriann wakeman
In-Reply-To: <448822.45475.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <448822.45475.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4CDA0450.7030206@gmail.com>

On 11/9/10 6:39 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Listers,
> I saved a post from Teriann from long long ago concerning leaf springs and the
> use of Polyethylene plastic strips between leaves rather than cleaning up and
> using grease.  TeriAnn had used that method and was very happy with it.


Here's a quote from one of my web pages:

"the next step is to minimize the friction between the individual 
leaves. I like UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight) Polyethylene plastic.

This plastic provides a low friction surface, similar to Teflon tape, 
but with a much higher abrasion and puncture resistance. It was designed 
specifically for commercial use on chutes, packaging lines, slides, and 
anywhere high pressure metal to metal sliding contact occurs. It also 
provides sound dampening, eliminating squeaks and rattles caused by 
adjacent parts movement. The plastic's temperature range is -40 to +225 
degrees F.

The plastic tape I like is 0.005" thick, comes on a 3 inch wide roll and 
has 1.5 mils of acrylic adhesive. It can be purchased from McMaster Carr 
(http://www.mcmaster.com/) and is part number 76445A24 (You can do a 
part number search on their site to find the tape).

You disassemble the spring pack and stick the tape to the top side of 
each individual leaf, except for the top leaf of course. This tape 
virtually eliminates the friction between adjacent leaves in the leaf 
pack and dramatically increases the spring's ability to react to bumps 
in the road."

I wrote the above for Series Land Rovers which have 3 inch wide leaf 
springs.  The plastic has been between the springs for 11 years now. 
The strips are a bit ratty around the ends but are still hanging in 
there after a lot of washboard road driving in the Land Rover. Spring 
flex is still better than new stock.

I have not had my TR3's rear springs apart since trying it on the Land 
Rover.  It however on my to do list when I get around to pulling the 
springs.

Teriann

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov  9 21:03:40 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 20:03:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] leaf springs-Polyethylene plastic-teriann wakeman
In-Reply-To: <448822.45475.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <448822.45475.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <020f01cb808c$42ca6bd0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I saved a post from Teriann from long long ago concerning 
> leaf springs and the 
> use of Polyethylene plastic strips

Note that it's important to use ultra high molecular weight polyethylene,
more commonly known as UHMW.  Ordinary PE isn't going to hold up at all.

Based on TeriAnn's advice, I've been running UHMW in my TR3 for about 1.5
years now, and so far I'm very happy with it.  My previous attempt (bearing
needles between the leaves) didn't last nearly this long.  The difference in
both ride and handling is noticeable.

> I was disappointed in that 3 of the tabs I bent out 
> broke off.  I'm 
> assuming I can simply weld them back together and they'll 
> still keep the leaves 
> straight. 

I would not try to weld them, unless you cut the rivets first, weld, and
then re-rivet.  The leaves are hardened and tempered I believe, so the heat
of welding will ruin them.

When I had some similar springs modified at a local spring shop many years
ago, they didn't even try to reuse the original clips.  Instead they made
new ones of what I assume was mild, flat steel, bent into a U-shape to fit
the spring snugly, and with a bolt and spacer to form the 4th side on top of
the spring.  The clips don't need to be very strong, their only function is
to keep the leaves from fanning out to the sides.

But I've been lucky enough to never break a clip on my TRs, so I've not
tried to make new ones.

-- Randall  

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Nov 10 09:09:07 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 09:09:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
In-Reply-To: <561371.61279.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <561371.61279.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <69568CED-E37C-4FB4-9A27-F183B8104690@flash.net>

>     Just curious what techniques work for getting the top bows up on a TR3
top after the snaps h



Bill,
After you set the bows, are you easily able to pull those last few
lift-the-dot fasteners into position?

My process was pretty much the same as yours, except from the opposite side.
Unfortunately, the first attempt this year resulted in the material splitting
just above the LTD fasteners.  It is an old Amco top so it was probably it's
time to go.



Mobile Bill

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Nov 10 10:41:33 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 09:41:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
In-Reply-To: <69568CED-E37C-4FB4-9A27-F183B8104690@flash.net>
Message-ID: <386386.3017.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I can get my lift-a-dot fasteners on okay (not easily, but okay) this
way. However, I can see the top material starting to split at a seam on the
top right above a top bow.

     -Bill in Tehachapi

--- On Wed, 11/10/10,
Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> From: Wbeech at flash.net
<wbeech at flash.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
> To: "William Brewer"
<wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> Cc: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date:
Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 8:09 AM
> >     Just
> curious what techniques
work for getting the top bows up on
> a TR3 top after the snaps h
> 
> 
> 
>
Bill,
> After you set the bows, are you easily able to pull those
> last few
lift-the-dot fasteners into position? 
> 
> My process was pretty much the
same as yours, except from
> the opposite side.  Unfortunately, the first
attempt
> this year resulted in the material splitting just above the
> LTD
fasteners.  It is an old Amco top so it was
> probably it's time to go. 
> 
>
> 
> Mobile Bill

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 10 11:22:03 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:22:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] leaf springs-Polyethylene plastic-TeriAnn Wakeman
In-Reply-To: <4CDA0450.7030206@gmail.com>
References: <448822.45475.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<4CDA0450.7030206@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <063a01cb8104$31836ca0$948a45e0$@rr.com>

> The plastic tape I like is 0.005" thick, comes on a 3 inch wide roll
> and has 1.5 mils of acrylic adhesive.

BTW, the TR3-4 springs are only 2" wide, so it makes more sense to buy the
2" wide tape if you are doing a TR.

-- Randall 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Nov 10 11:58:54 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 11:58:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting
In-Reply-To: <386386.3017.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <386386.3017.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4CDAEB6E.4030108@gmail.com>

On 11/10/10 10:41 AM, William Brewer wrote:
>       I can get my lift-a-dot fasteners on okay (not easily, but okay) this
> way. However, I can see the top material starting to split at a seam on the
> top right above a top bow.

Sounds to me like a top that had the snaps assembled during summer when 
the material was warm and stretched.  I think your best bet might be to 
remove the bottom snaps and reset a new set of snaps.

My rule of thumb is to set soft top snaps when the top is at the 
temperature that it is most likely to be when you feel a need to erect 
the top.  I've seen a lot of tops that won't snap all the way in winter 
because the snaps were installed during the summer.  And of course some 
that billow a little loose in summer because the snaps were set on a 
freezing winter day. Personally, I'd rather have the top a little loose 
in summer than too tight to set up in winter.

A hard top solves that problem.

Teriann

From djsforza at gmail.com  Wed Nov 10 12:29:52 2010
From: djsforza at gmail.com (Don Sforza)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 14:29:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Parts... located in Conneccticut
Message-ID: <AANLkTinjU33JmfC5+eM4o143PpTWnov4Txnd6OaUfJnh@mail.gmail.com>

Hi list: An old friend sold her 1960 TR3 years ago, but has a ton of
parts... over 100 by count... engine block, head, bonnet, side curtains,
etc. E-mail me off list djsforza at gmail.com and I'll send you her e-mail
and some pix. Parts are in Bristol, Connecticut, not far from ESPN
headquarters. She wants $1600 for the lot (I gotta believe a bonnet alone is
worth many hundred). Shipping is NOT an option.... pickup only. Thanks.

Don Sforza

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Wed Nov 10 12:48:09 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 14:48:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Top Erecting Contest
Message-ID: <25e60.9d1f917.3a0c50f9@aol.com>

As soon as I saw this subject line I was reminded of an Event at a TRA  
National Meeting years ago in WVA.  Scot Harper of Team Triumph donated a  
rusty TR3A w/o an interior and teams of two were timed as they erected the top  
all the while being sprayed by a hose to simulate rain.  It was funny as  
all get out!!! :)
Darrell

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Nov 10 13:05:35 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 12:05:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Hard Top Questions
Message-ID: <713327.67444.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I ordered a wool headliner kit from TRF for my TR3A steel hard top. Is that sufficient insulation or is there a better way to insulate underneath to keep you a little warmer in the winter?

    Bill in Tehachapi

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Nov 10 14:29:40 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 16:29:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Hard Top Questions
In-Reply-To: <713327.67444.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <713327.67444.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <85CEE3E8706549CB861A85048DDECFE5@CarlPC>

Trying to keep down the heat build up, huh?

I didn't realize that it was wool - but did a 'check' and it is..  Anyway - 
it the same thickness as a pair of wool slacks so probably not much 
insulation.   I have not heard of any insulation material that would work 
because of the contour of the inside of the top.  If you find something - 
post it to the list as I am sure there are others as interested as I am.

I was thinking about but not looked into using truck bed liner 
(paint/spray).  the problem is that it may not be 'smooth' enough not to 
show through the material.   Another option would be high-density foam 
1/4-1/2" thick.  That is where the inside contour may be problematic.

That was as far as I got and that part of the project is some time off...
Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 3:05 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Hard Top Questions


>     I ordered a wool headliner kit from TRF for my TR3A steel hard top. Is 
> that sufficient insulation or is there a better way to insulate underneath 
> to keep you a little warmer in the winter?
>
>    Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From adcronin at mi.rr.com  Wed Nov 10 15:10:16 2010
From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 17:10:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Hard Top Questions
In-Reply-To: <85CEE3E8706549CB861A85048DDECFE5@CarlPC>
References: <713327.67444.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<85CEE3E8706549CB861A85048DDECFE5@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <68908229-E4E2-4110-8B91-D13BDAF54864@mi.rr.com>

Take a look on line at a product called "Lizard Skin".  This may be what you
are looking for......
Dan


On Nov 10, 2010, at 4:29 PM, Carl TR wrote:

> Trying to keep down the heat build up, huh?
>
> I didn't realize that it was wool - but did a 'check' and it is..  Anyway -
it the same thickness as a pair of wool slacks so probably not much
insulation.   I have not heard of any insulation material that would work
because of the contour of the inside of the top.  If you find something - post
it to the list as I am sure there are others as interested as I am.
>
> I was thinking about but not looked into using truck bed liner
(paint/spray).  the problem is that it may not be 'smooth' enough not to show
through the material.   Another option would be high-density foam 1/4-1/2"
thick.  That is where the inside contour may be problematic.
>
> That was as far as I got and that part of the project is some time off...
> Carl
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 3:05 PM
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Hard Top Questions
>
>
>>    I ordered a wool headliner kit from TRF for my TR3A steel hard top. Is
that sufficient insulation or is there a better way to insulate underneath to
keep you a little warmer in the winter?
>>
>>   Bill in Tehachapi
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/adcronin at mi.rr.com

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Wed Nov 10 20:31:35 2010
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 20:31:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
Message-ID: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>

After being in storage for 30 years I got the 57 TR3 I got from my
grandfather and law up and running this summer.  I replaced all of the
rubber bits, but not the master or slave cylinder. 

 

Fast forward a few months and I am blasting down Butterfield canyon in Utah
(a very steep winding two way road with just enough room for two cars to
pass, if one pulls over) when my clutch quits working.  It won't disengage.
Made for an interesting drive.  I did make it home safely, but.

 

It appears that either my master or slave cylinder has failed.  I figure I
should probably replace or fix them and the MC for the brakes while I am at
it.  So here is the question.  I saw that Moss has a repair kit for each, or
a replacement.  I can repair all three for about $30 or replace them for
about $150.  Seems like a no-brainer, but I don't know how hard they are to
fix, or if I am missing any other considerations.  Any input would be
appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Jeremiah

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Nov 10 21:14:58 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 23:14:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Started tranny re-assembly
Message-ID: <4CDB2772.18426.5447E2E1@localhost>

Just in time for cold weather, I've gotten the main and input shafts 
back into my gearbox.  (Yay!)  It spins smoooooth.  This is good.  
Maybe the GT6 will run again before the snow flies.
-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 10 22:06:10 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 21:06:10 -0800
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
References: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
Message-ID: <03ae01cb815e$28978a40$0301a8c0@randall>

> Seems like a no-brainer, but I don't know how 
> hard they are to
> fix, or if I am missing any other considerations.  Any input would be
> appreciated.

Installing new seals is easy, nearly trivial.  The important question is
whether there is more damage than just worn out seals, like pits in the bore
(very common in cars that have been stored for a long time), cracks, damaged
threads, etc.  Disassembly and inspection is the only way to decide, IMO.

Another consideration, the replacements sold by Moss et al may not be
visually the same as your originals.  Depending on just how old your car is,
you may even have to bend the lines somewhat as the outlets are different
(very early disc brake cars have perpendicular outlets, later ones have them
at an angle).

BTW, congratulations on learning to drive without a clutch.  It will likely
come in handy again <G>

-- Randall  

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Nov 10 22:44:58 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 22:44:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
References: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
Message-ID: <CD4D4667289645C7AB3EA5167F63B18A@bboffice>

If all the casings, fittings and hoses are in good shape, not cracked,
pitted or threads stripped, you should be able to dependably re-build all
three units with the kit that it provided. 

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeremiah Curry
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:32 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace

After being in storage for 30 years I got the 57 TR3 I got from my
grandfather and law up and running this summer.  I replaced all of the
rubber bits, but not the master or slave cylinder. 

 

Fast forward a few months and I am blasting down Butterfield canyon in Utah
(a very steep winding two way road with just enough room for two cars to
pass, if one pulls over) when my clutch quits working.  It won't disengage.
Made for an interesting drive.  I did make it home safely, but.

 

It appears that either my master or slave cylinder has failed.  I figure I
should probably replace or fix them and the MC for the brakes while I am at
it.  So here is the question.  I saw that Moss has a repair kit for each, or
a replacement.  I can repair all three for about $30 or replace them for
about $150.  Seems like a no-brainer, but I don't know how hard they are to
fix, or if I am missing any other considerations.  Any input would be
appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Jeremiah
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Nov 11 00:17:17 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 23:17:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
References: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
Message-ID: <a0624080bc90148a816d2@[192.168.2.3]>

Haven't used them, but Apple Hydraulics seem to  have a good 
reputation, winter would be a good time to get the originals re-built 
...





>
>
>
>It appears that either my master or slave cylinder has failed.  I figure I
>should probably replace or fix them and the MC for the brakes while I am at
>it.  So here is the question.  I saw that Moss has a repair kit for each, or
>a replacement.  I can repair all three for about $30 or replace them for
>about $150.  Seems like a no-brainer, but I don't know how hard they are to
>fix, or if I am missing any other considerations.  Any input would be
>appreciated.
>
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jeremiah
>___


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From WCA09 at aol.com  Thu Nov 11 07:18:01 2010
From: WCA09 at aol.com (WCA09 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 09:18:01 EST
Subject: [TR] leaf springs-Polyethylene plastic-teriann wakeman
Message-ID: <1195d4.79ab8026.3a0d5519@aol.com>

Just an FYI on the subject:
 
Eaton Spring carries a leaf spring liner product made of Delrin (Dupont  
trade name for acetal homoplymer).. There is a never ending debate re: which 
is  tougher and lower in friction, Delrin or UHMW.  I bought the Eaton 
product  for my TR3A springs and will install the new packages this winter.  The  
material is ~0.045 - 0.050" thick, and 2" wide with raised lips at the edges 
to  keep the strips aligned with the spring leaves.  I believe the material 
is  extruded.  Off roader's apparently are big fans of the stuff.
 
The material is pretty hefty so I was a little worried that the  installed 
total thickness would not allow me to reclamp the spring package; it  was 
tight but things did go together.  As I said above, no experience on  the road 
yet.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 11 10:11:39 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 09:11:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
References: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
Message-ID: <325252.99836.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Jeremiah
pull them both apart. if the inside bore's are smooth, then just do a
rebuild.
its so easy.
any scoring of the bore and buy new
Frank
________________________________
From: Jeremiah Curry <jeremiah at curryclan.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, November 10, 2010 7:31:35 PM
Subject:
[TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace

After being in storage for
30 years I got the 57 TR3 I got from my
grandfather and law up and running
this summer.  I replaced all of the
rubber bits, but not the master or slave
cylinder. 



Fast forward a few months and I am blasting down Butterfield
canyon in Utah
(a very steep winding two way road with just enough room for
two cars to
pass, if one pulls over) when my clutch quits working.  It won't
disengage.
Made for an interesting drive.  I did make it home safely, but.
It appears that either my master or slave cylinder has failed.  I figure I
should probably replace or fix them and the MC for the brakes while I am at
it.  So here is the question.  I saw that Moss has a repair kit for each, or
a
replacement.  I can repair all three for about $30 or replace them for
about
$150.  Seems like a no-brainer, but I don't know how hard they are to
fix, or
if I am missing any other considerations.  Any input would be
appreciated.
Thanks,

Jeremiah
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Thu Nov 11 13:36:32 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 15:36:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=LMRHp6CKaW3BePb6NLdarbSKewU7Re=V+neSB@mail.gmail.com>

Jermiah - what GREAT thing to inherit and keep in the family, you lucky guy.

On the hydraulics, my priority would be:

1) If no obvious pits, or wear lines that you can catch a nail in, install
new seals.
2) If obvious pits/wear lines, or the news seals don't 'seal', mail part to
Apple Hydraulics or White Post. The repaired part should last longer than
you will. They re-bore it and insert a brass sleeve. Not cheap, but
worthwhile. New seals will then be OK, so $30 not wasted.
3) As a last resort, buy replacement part(s).

In doing all this, consider switching to silicone. Do a search here and make
an informed decision... I switched after a failed seal caused a fair bit of
paint damage. Silicon is benign to paint (relatively speaking; at least it
isn't a paint striper in its spare time, unlike DOT 4).

Brian
Valley Forge, PA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 11 15:01:25 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 14:01:25 -0800
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=LMRHp6CKaW3BePb6NLdarbSKewU7Re=V+neSB@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTi=LMRHp6CKaW3BePb6NLdarbSKewU7Re=V+neSB@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007601cb81eb$fca9df80$f5fd9e80$@rr.com>

> In doing all this, consider switching to silicone. Do a search here and
> make
> an informed decision...

Just to be clear, although I am a BIG believer in DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid
(happy user for some 20 years now); I believe both Apple and White Post
refuse to warranty their work if you use silicone fluid.  It's not common,
but I have heard of at least one case where they clearly (in my opinion) had
not done the work properly, but refused to fix the problem because the end
user was using silicone fluid.

> Silicon is benign to paint (relatively speaking;

It will actually help preserve the paint!  In fact, there are many "wax"
products on the market that include silicone in their formulas.

One disadvantage, though, is that silicone can be very difficult to remove,
and it will interfere with fresh paint (in the form of "fish eyes").  If you
do use DOT 5 fluid then, it becomes mandatory to use a product like PPG
Acryli-Clean before attempting to paint almost anything.

And while I'm repeating common knowledge, note that "synthetic" and "DOT
5.1" brake fluids are NOT silicone and will damage paint (although possibly
not as rapidly as some DOT 3/4 fluids will).

-- Randall 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Nov 11 18:11:04 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 20:11:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
References: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
Message-ID: <6A6511702AE849FDA4F11AF39444C735@Edscomputer>

Jeremiah,

You didn't mention whether or not there was a loss of fluif. If there 
wasn't, a possible cause would be a broken spring inside the clutch master 
cylinder.

Ed Woods 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Nov 11 18:11:04 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 20:11:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
References: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
Message-ID: <AADBF415F0294B3DA9D194D36E07FE7D@Edscomputer>

Jeremiah,

You didn't mention whether or not there was a loss of fluif. If there 
wasn't, a possible cause would be a broken spring inside the clutch master 
cylinder.

Ed Woods 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Nov 11 18:11:04 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 20:11:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
References: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
Message-ID: <70084A655DAB498A818B2E9F8B261730@Edscomputer>

Jeremiah,

You didn't mention whether or not there was a loss of fluif. If there 
wasn't, a possible cause would be a broken spring inside the clutch master 
cylinder.

Ed Woods 

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Thu Nov 11 19:04:11 2010
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 19:04:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <AADBF415F0294B3DA9D194D36E07FE7D@Edscomputer>
References: <E8788AA3E2B346188D73BB0BB4847506@maximum7>
	<AADBF415F0294B3DA9D194D36E07FE7D@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <413E3E83AD2D4737B2404EA79C105BBA@little1>

There was a loss of fluif.  The center section of the reservoir was empty,
while the outside was full.

Thanks,
Jeremiah

-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Woods [mailto:fogbro1 at comcast.net] 
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 6:11 PM
To: Jeremiah Curry; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace

Jeremiah,

You didn't mention whether or not there was a loss of fluif. If there 
wasn't, a possible cause would be a broken spring inside the clutch master 
cylinder.

Ed Woods 

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Thu Nov 11 19:12:27 2010
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 19:12:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=LMRHp6CKaW3BePb6NLdarbSKewU7Re=V+neSB@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTi=LMRHp6CKaW3BePb6NLdarbSKewU7Re=V+neSB@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <140E6B01BA534B07A3C9426FD163294E@little1>

Thanks for the advice.

 

You obviously haven't seen my paint, stripping would be a service ;)

 

I looked up apple hydraulics based on someone else's recommendation, but the
rebuild is more than the new parts.  Is there a reason that rebuilt would be
better than replaced?

 

Jeremiah

 

  _____  

From: Brian Jones [mailto:tr4zest at gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 1:37 PM
To: jeremiah at curryclan.net; email list
Subject: Re: master and slave cylinder repair or replace

 

Jermiah - what GREAT thing to inherit and keep in the family, you lucky guy.

 

On the hydraulics, my priority would be:

 

1) If no obvious pits, or wear lines that you can catch a nail in, install
new seals.

2) If obvious pits/wear lines, or the news seals don't 'seal', mail part to
Apple Hydraulics or White Post. The repaired part should last longer than
you will. They re-bore it and insert a brass sleeve. Not cheap, but
worthwhile. New seals will then be OK, so $30 not wasted.

3) As a last resort, buy replacement part(s). 

 

In doing all this, consider switching to silicone. Do a search here and make
an informed decision... I switched after a failed seal caused a fair bit of
paint damage. Silicon is benign to paint (relatively speaking; at least it
isn't a paint striper in its spare time, unlike DOT 4).

 

Brian

Valley Forge, PA

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Nov 11 19:42:47 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 20:42:47 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
Message-ID: <23369279.134354.1289529767695.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

Ok, I give...  is there a secret to mounting the three rubber bushings for the windshield wiper motor?   
Thanks
Carl

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Nov 11 18:14:06 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 19:14:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] pretty ot
In-Reply-To: <306435.51606.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <306435.51606.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B66411D1B24443B29F162B04DC66D46F@ranteer.local>

?I know this is pretty irrelevant to everything . . .

we've been getting netflix dvd's, and are on season three disk one.

the second episode, as well as one of the first on the first season, has a 
tr7 go by in the opening scene shot in Boston

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Nov 11 21:18:55 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 22:18:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <140E6B01BA534B07A3C9426FD163294E@little1>
References: <AANLkTi=LMRHp6CKaW3BePb6NLdarbSKewU7Re=V+neSB@mail.gmail.com>,
	<140E6B01BA534B07A3C9426FD163294E@little1>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W53A7680DE352A863970F9DE1330@phx.gbl>

I think they will tell you that the quality of the original parts is much
better than the stuff being made now.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> From: jeremiah at curryclan.net
> To: tr4zest at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 19:12:27 -0700
> Subject: Re: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
>
> Thanks for the advice.
>
>
>
> You obviously haven't seen my paint, stripping would be a service ;)
>
>
>
> I looked up apple hydraulics based on someone else's recommendation, but
the
> rebuild is more than the new parts. Is there a reason that rebuilt would be
> better than replaced?
>
>
>
> Jeremiah
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: Brian Jones [mailto:tr4zest at gmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 1:37 PM
> To: jeremiah at curryclan.net; email list
> Subject: Re: master and slave cylinder repair or replace
>
>
>
> Jermiah - what GREAT thing to inherit and keep in the family, you lucky
guy.
>
>
>
> On the hydraulics, my priority would be:
>
>
>
> 1) If no obvious pits, or wear lines that you can catch a nail in, install
> new seals.
>
> 2) If obvious pits/wear lines, or the news seals don't 'seal', mail part to
> Apple Hydraulics or White Post. The repaired part should last longer than
> you will. They re-bore it and insert a brass sleeve. Not cheap, but
> worthwhile. New seals will then be OK, so $30 not wasted.
>
> 3) As a last resort, buy replacement part(s).
>
>
>
> In doing all this, consider switching to silicone. Do a search here and
make
> an informed decision... I switched after a failed seal caused a fair bit of
> paint damage. Silicon is benign to paint (relatively speaking; at least it
> isn't a paint striper in its spare time, unlike DOT 4).
>
>
>
> Brian
>
> Valley Forge, PA
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Fri Nov 12 02:38:52 2010
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 09:38:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <140E6B01BA534B07A3C9426FD163294E@little1>
Message-ID: <00163628363ec130840494d7db73@google.com>

Try here too: http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html

Repairing the part rather than replace it is both a philosophical and a  
practical consideration.

You will only need to order two or three parts for some repair or other,  
and be disappointed to find something that is barely equivalent and far  
from identical. Some will fail immediately.
With a repaired part such as a hydraulic cylinder, you have the part, and a  
current guarantee from its repairer.

You know it will fit, will look right and will work.

Brian

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Nov 12 05:16:11 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 12:16:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR]  manifold gaskets
Message-ID: <401374313.1164855.1289564171174.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

On June 6, 2007, Uncle Jack wrote:

>The new manifold gaskets for TR2 - 4 have been delivered from the 
>manufacturer and are now available.

>They are compacted graphite, 1/8" thick, over a mesh base. They 
>compress to half thickness when installed. Just the thing for uneven 
>manifolds and warped headers. 2000 deg F tolerant. Eliminates the 
>problems with the shiny ones that come in the gasket sets. Price $67 
>for one engine's worth. 100% money back guarantee for any reason.

I bought a set of these and cured a long-standing manifold leak problem.  Loved them!

Alas, blew a head gasket yesterday, and need another set.  

Are these still available????

Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A TS 58667
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Nov 12 05:23:18 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 12:23:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Engine Rebuild -- Sorta
In-Reply-To: <837479708.1165107.1289564534026.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <244049657.1165138.1289564598393.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Am closing in on 50,000 miles on the rebuilt TR3A engine.  Have been running Valvoline 10/30 full syn with highest quality oil filters.

Book says to replace the rod bearings at 50k.  Without taking them off to peek, I'm wondering how necessary this really is?  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Nov 12 05:29:30 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 12:29:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Compression Question
In-Reply-To: <00163628363ec130840494d7db73@google.com>
Message-ID: <2025100732.1165398.1289564970121.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Last question today (probably).  

For weeks before the head gasket blew, I smelled oil at the high end of the rpm spectrum, but not otherwise.  I expected this might just be coming from the breather pipe maximum engine load fills the crankcase with more pressure.  

On the other hand, is this a trouble-shooting variable I should know about before I ruin a second head gasket?

As ever, I couldn't keep this car on the road without you all!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Nov 12 05:52:59 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 07:52:59 EST
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
Message-ID: <32cd0.13a6a031.3a0e92ab@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/11/2010 8:56:23 PM Central Standard Time, 
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> Ok, I give...  is there a secret to mounting the three rubber bushings 
> for the windshield wiper motor?   
> 

Well, first you insert the rubber bits into the mounting bracket and then 
insert the spacers.

Is that the technique you are using?

Dave

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Nov 12 06:17:49 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 08:17:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
In-Reply-To: <32cd0.13a6a031.3a0e92ab@cs.com>
References: <32cd0.13a6a031.3a0e92ab@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4C2D8DF4C82248F8A3527CE5E929C2BA@CarlPC>

Short of cutting them at the 'recess' and using the fastener to sandwich 
them in, I can't get the rubber bits to get into hole...

C

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper motor mount


> In a message dated 11/11/2010 8:56:23 PM Central Standard Time,
> cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes:
>> Ok, I give...  is there a secret to mounting the three rubber bushings
>> for the windshield wiper motor?
>>
>
> Well, first you insert the rubber bits into the mounting bracket and then
> insert the spacers.
>
> Is that the technique you are using?
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri Nov 12 06:26:18 2010
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 08:26:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
Message-ID: <8924.19dbe4bc.3a0e9a7a@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/11/2010 8:41:13 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jeremiah at curryclan.net writes:

I looked  up apple hydraulics based on someone else's recommendation, but 
the
rebuild  is more than the new parts.  Is there a reason that rebuilt would  
be
better than replaced?
 
 
 
absolutely YES
what you really want Apple to do is sleeve the cylinder  with brass - send 
them the bare cylinder, then rebuild with  your original internal parts (if 
they're good - they usually are) and a new seal  set. Replacement cylinders 
currently available are generally Chinese  reproductions (even the ones in 
TRW boxes) and are notorious for poor quality  and early failure. I've never 
had any problem with resleeved cylinders -  the brass will not corrode and 
pit like the original steel bore.
Cheers,
Jack Mc

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Nov 12 07:10:41 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 09:10:41 EST
Subject: [TR] Engine Rebuild -- Sorta
Message-ID: <18840.11ed545b.3a0ea4e1@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/12/2010 6:56:06 AM Central Standard Time, 
terryrs at comcast.net writes: 
> Book says to replace the rod bearings at 50k.  Without taking them off to 
> peek, I'm wondering how necessary this really is?  
> 

Depends on how many miles you want to get out of the engine.  Replacing the 
rod (and main) bearings (and thrust washers) every 50,000 miles will allow 
you to run that engine for 150,000+ miles before pulling it out.

Consider it preventative maintenance.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Nov 12 07:12:31 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 09:12:31 EST
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
Message-ID: <18a02.7f4873cd.3a0ea54f@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/12/2010 7:17:47 AM Central Standard Time, 
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> Short of cutting them at the 'recess' and using the fastener to sandwich 
> them in, I can't get the rubber bits to get into hole...
> 

Have you tried the old Warm Them Up in Hot Water to Make Them Softer trick?

Dave

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri Nov 12 07:47:00 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 14:47:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
In-Reply-To: <4C2D8DF4C82248F8A3527CE5E929C2BA@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <249468143.1296133.1289573220061.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Carl, I've done the cutting and it's ok , but last time I took more patience and a little blunted screwdriver or two and with much use of foul language succeeded. 

Tom 


Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper motor mount 

Short of cutting them at the 'recess' and using the fastener to sandwich 
them in, I can't get the rubber bits to get into hole... 

C 

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri Nov 12 07:55:27 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 14:55:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <413E3E83AD2D4737B2404EA79C105BBA@little1>
Message-ID: <973429752.1296928.1289573727974.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

The center portion of the reservoir is for the clutch.B  I'd do the Apple
rebuild,too. But back in the early seventies when I first rebuilt the TR3A I
was told that "brake and clutch systems age together" meaning that if I would
just replace the master cylinders in a short period of time do to increased
pressure from the top, the wheel cylinders not used to the increased pressure
would leak or fail.B  Only wanting to mess with a problem once, I rebuilt the
clutch master and slave cylinders and the brake master and from calipers and
rear wheel cylinders...cheap insurance by my way of thinking. Also, it makes
for a total replacement of the Dot 3 fluid with Dot 5.

Tom


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremiah Curry" <jeremiah at curryclan.net>
To: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 9:04:11 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace

There was a loss of fluif. B The center section of the reservoir was empty,
while the outside was full.

Thanks,
Jeremiah

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 12 08:35:33 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 10:35:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <973429752.1296928.1289573727974.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <413E3E83AD2D4737B2404EA79C105BBA@little1>,
	<973429752.1296928.1289573727974.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <COL119-W35D92EAC1BDC29B8D295CEA5330@phx.gbl>

 But back in the early seventies when I first rebuilt the TR3A I
> was told that "brake and clutch systems age together" meaning that if I
would
> just replace the master cylinders in a short period of time do to increased
> pressure from the top, the wheel cylinders not used to the increased
pressure
> would leak or fail.

I have experimented with this...

When I bought the TR3 racecar, the clutch slave cylinder needed rebuilding.
The clutch master cylinder was O.K.

As soon as I rebuilt the slave, the master started leaking.

John H.

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Nov 12 08:56:18 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 10:56:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
In-Reply-To: <001701cb8280$8f5c80a0$ae1581e0$@com>
References: <32cd0.13a6a031.3a0e92ab@cs.com>
	<4C2D8DF4C82248F8A3527CE5E929C2BA@CarlPC>
	<001701cb8280$8f5c80a0$ae1581e0$@com>
Message-ID: <25E0AFB3FA9F45E8B7FC2D056B0E3158@CarlPC>

Chris/Dave/Tom/Rob - Thanks for responses.  I will try again tonight - 
perhaps the patience part was the missing ingredient.

Has anyone else seen that the time stamp is off by an odd amount.   I sent 
it at 8:45 this morning and the time stamp is 5:18....  There is no way I am 
up at 5am.....

C



> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
> Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 5:18 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper motor mount
>
> Short of cutting them at the 'recess' and using the fastener to sandwich
> them in, I can't get the rubber bits to get into hole...
>
> C
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 7:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper motor mount
>
>
>> In a message dated 11/11/2010 8:56:23 PM Central Standard Time,
>> cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes:
>>> Ok, I give...  is there a secret to mounting the three rubber bushings
>>> for the windshield wiper motor?
>>>
>>
>> Well, first you insert the rubber bits into the mounting bracket and then
>> insert the spacers.
>>
>> Is that the technique you are using?
>>
>> Dave
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Manage your account:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/robertgrasby at gmail.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri Nov 12 08:58:23 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 09:58:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] manifold gaskets
In-Reply-To: <401374313.1164855.1289564171174.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.west
	chester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <401374313.1164855.1289564171174.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20101112155754.A9CA9187867@autox.team.net>

Terry, I've not been actively marketing them, but I do have access to 
these.  I and one or two other racer-types use them 
exclusively.  They are amazingly effective. I have 3 sets on the 
shelf at the moment.

Current price is $70 plus $10 shipping.

You can send me a check (saves me the paypal commission) or you can 
send a paypal payment to tony at tonydrews.com and I'll get a set on 
it's way to you.

If you send a check, be sure to include your shipping information.

Thanks, Tony Drews
5208 11th Avenue A
Moline, IL  61265
"uncle jack's racing"

At 06:16 AM 11/12/2010, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:
>On June 6, 2007, Uncle Jack wrote:
>
> >The new manifold gaskets for TR2 - 4 have been delivered from the
> >manufacturer and are now available.
>
> >They are compacted graphite, 1/8" thick, over a mesh base. They
> >compress to half thickness when installed. Just the thing for uneven
> >manifolds and warped headers. 2000 deg F tolerant. Eliminates the
> >problems with the shiny ones that come in the gasket sets. Price $67
> >for one engine's worth. 100% money back guarantee for any reason.
>
>I bought a set of these and cured a long-standing manifold leak 
>problem.  Loved them!
>
>Alas, blew a head gasket yesterday, and need another set.
>
>Are these still available????
>
>Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A TS 58667
>New Hampshire

From tbe749 at aol.com  Fri Nov 12 09:56:39 2010
From: tbe749 at aol.com (Tom)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 11:56:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
In-Reply-To: <4C2D8DF4C82248F8A3527CE5E929C2BA@CarlPC>
References: <32cd0.13a6a031.3a0e92ab@cs.com>
	<4C2D8DF4C82248F8A3527CE5E929C2BA@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <3FAB7BBA-C4CA-4AAA-8988-4380756E3D6A@aol.com>

I'm not familiar with the 3 but it sounds like you are trying to fit the
rubber mounting things into holes that visually appear to small? I recently
did this on my 10 so just guessing the concept is similar.

I squeezed the rubber by it's sides and put one end in the slit in the middle
of rubber mount. Then I used a small blade scre driver to push (force) the
opposite side. Then working the rest in with same screw driver.

Don't let that scree driver slip! Tom

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 12, 2010, at 8:17 AM, "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

> Short of cutting them at the 'recess' and using the fastener to sandwich
them in, I can't get the rubber bits to get into hole...
>
> C
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 7:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper motor mount
>
>
>> In a message dated 11/11/2010 8:56:23 PM Central Standard Time,
>> cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes:
>>> Ok, I give...  is there a secret to mounting the three rubber bushings
>>> for the windshield wiper motor?
>>>
>>
>> Well, first you insert the rubber bits into the mounting bracket and then
>> insert the spacers.
>>
>> Is that the technique you are using?
>>
>> Dave
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tbe749 at aol.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 12 10:13:35 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 09:13:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] manifold gaskets
In-Reply-To: <20101112155754.A9CA9187867@autox.team.net>
References: <401374313.1164855.1289564171174.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20101112155754.A9CA9187867@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <011901cb828c$f6018c40$e204a4c0$@rr.com>

> > >The new manifold gaskets for TR2 - 4 have been delivered from the
> > >manufacturer and are now available.

> I have 3 sets on the
> shelf at the moment.

Just curious, Tony, are you really stocking gaskets for the early low port
heads?

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 12 10:23:07 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 09:23:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <973429752.1296928.1289573727974.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <413E3E83AD2D4737B2404EA79C105BBA@little1>
	<973429752.1296928.1289573727974.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <011a01cb828e$46708fe0$d351afa0$@rr.com>

> But back in the early seventies when I first rebuilt the
> TR3A I
> was told that "brake and clutch systems age together"

I have seen the same effect, but IMO it was because the seals sold in the
70s were not compatible with American brake fluid.  I don't know the
chemical explanation (although many people have asserted that the British
seals were "natural rubber"), but I did demonstrate to my own satisfaction
that American fluid would soften and dissolve the seals; while Girling fluid
wouldn't.  But that problem seems to have disappeared over the years, so
either the fluid or the seals have changed.

Otherwise, I don't believe they "age together", because the usage (and hence
wear) is so different.  The clutch slave and MC move much farther than the
brakes, and at least 2-3 times more often.

Also, the pressure is whatever it takes to perform the function.  It doesn't
"increase" just because you rebuilt the system, unless it was previously not
enough to do the job.  IOW, the brake system sees only the pressure required
to stop the car, the clutch system sees only the pressure required to
release the clutch.

Or, to put it yet another way, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 12 10:41:17 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 09:41:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] Engine Rebuild -- Sorta
In-Reply-To: <244049657.1165138.1289564598393.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <837479708.1165107.1289564534026.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<244049657.1165138.1289564598393.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <012701cb8290$d024b840$706e28c0$@rr.com>

> Book says to replace the rod bearings at 50k.  Without taking them off
> to peek, I'm wondering how necessary this really is?

Seems to be good preventative maintenance to me.  Like most PM, it's not
really necessary, but it helps reduce problems farther down the line.  For
example, it might help avoid having to regrind the crank the next time the
engine gets "freshened".

Just changing the rod bearings is a pretty minor operation, actually.  I did
mine in an afternoon, before TRfest (and they really needed it, were worn
clear into the brass backing).

However, if you want to avoid it, I would suggest keeping track of the oil
pressure.  If your hot idle pressure is the same as it was right after the
rebuild, then there is no appreciable wear on the bearings.  But if it has
been slowly creeping downward ... (mine was down to only 10-20 psi with
20W50 oil).

One thing I learned the hard way; if you use the lock tabs on the rod bolts,
it is essential to replace them every time.  I've been using Loctite
instead.

-- Randall 

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 12 12:08:43 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 14:08:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
In-Reply-To: <011a01cb828e$46708fe0$d351afa0$@rr.com>
References: <413E3E83AD2D4737B2404EA79C105BBA@little1>,
	<973429752.1296928.1289573727974.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>,
	<011a01cb828e$46708fe0$d351afa0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W5825E5CC1E433295246338A5330@phx.gbl>

> Also, the pressure is whatever it takes to perform the function. It doesn't
> "increase" just because you rebuilt the system, unless it was previously
not
> enough to do the job. IOW, the brake system sees only the pressure required
> to stop the car, the clutch system sees only the pressure required to
> release the clutch.

Which is what happened in my case with the old racecar. The master never built
up normal pressure due to the leaky slave bleeding pressure off. So the old
seals in the master didn't leak. When I fixed the slave, the pressure in the
master now built up to the point that the old seals in master began to leak.

> Or, to put it yet another way, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

It was, and I did.

From dkspence at telus.net  Fri Nov 12 12:49:46 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 12:49:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13846.1289568372.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13846.1289568372.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CDE6457A-B1E2-4439-B00F-35B8FE0C0B8E@telus.net>

Try warming them in very hot water to soften them. then use some  
liquid soap to help reduce friction.
On 12-Nov-10, at 6:26 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
> From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> Date: November 12, 2010 6:17:49 AM MST (CA)
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper motor mount
> Reply-To: Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
>
>
> Short of cutting them at the 'recess' and using the fastener to  
> sandwich them in, I can't get the rubber bits to get into hole...
>
> C

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Nov 12 12:55:48 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 12:55:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
In-Reply-To: <3FAB7BBA-C4CA-4AAA-8988-4380756E3D6A@aol.com>
References: <32cd0.13a6a031.3a0e92ab@cs.com>
	<4C2D8DF4C82248F8A3527CE5E929C2BA@CarlPC>
	<3FAB7BBA-C4CA-4AAA-8988-4380756E3D6A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B89B2D2-BFB3-44AF-9B1B-FE429C64ABE8@flash.net>

A little WD40 helps too

Mobile Bill

On Nov 12, 2010, at 9:56 AM, Tom <tbe749 at aol.com> wrote:

> I'm not familiar with the 3 but it sounds like you are trying to fit the
> rubber mounting things into holes that visually appear to small? I recently
> did this on my 10 so just guessing the concept is similar.
>
> I squeezed the rubber by it's sides and put one end in the slit in the
middle
> of rubber mount. Then I used a small blade scre driver to push (force) the
> opposite side. Then working the rest in with same screw driver.
>
> Don't let that scree driver slip! Tom
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 12, 2010, at 8:17 AM, "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Nov 12 13:47:58 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 15:47:58 EST
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
Message-ID: <75642.25d69ae0.3a0f01fe@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/12/2010 9:10:38 AM Central Standard Time, 
tfansher at comcast.net writes: 
> Carl, I've done the cutting and it's ok , but last time I took more 
> patience and a little blunted screwdriver or two and with much use of foul 
> language succeeded. 
> 

When a veterinarian uses fowl language, is he just giving out advice?

Dave

BTW, I hope you had a happy Veterinarians Day yesterday.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Nov 12 13:54:31 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 15:54:31 EST
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
Message-ID: <75c7e.58217c67.3a0f0387@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/12/2010 10:20:58 AM Central Standard Time, 
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> Has anyone else seen that the time stamp is off by an odd amount.   I 
> sent 
> it at 8:45 this morning and the time stamp is 5:18....  There is no way I 
> am 
> up at 5am.....
> 


Daylight Saving?

BTW have you tried a little petroleum jelly or other lubricant?

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Nov 12 14:06:37 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 16:06:37 EST
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
Message-ID: <7675e.47dc84f1.3a0f065d@cs.com>

This was sent to me but should have gone to the list.

Dave

Dave recently did mine and used Carl's method...hot water some soap and a 
small screwdriver...still requires some effort but they will go.

From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net  Fri Nov 12 14:52:15 2010
From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 16:52:15 -0500
Subject: [TR]  Engine Rebuild -- Sorta
Message-ID: <001401cb82b3$ded10bf0$9c7323d0$@net>

Can the rod, main and thrust washers can be replaced from under the car
after dropping the oil pan?

I've done this in the 1500 MG Midget.

The satisfaction in seeing the improvement in oil pressure was immense.  

A good winter project, taking one's time and trying to enjoy it.

At hot idle, what oil psi would be considered time to change the bearings
And what rpm are we talking about?

Thanks for any response.

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Nov 12 15:11:06 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 22:11:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A speedo and tach issues
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CBD453@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>

The tachometer and speedo in my recently acquired TR3A are both reading silly
values despite new cables. The tach is reading 3000+ rpm at idle and the
speedo is reading 60+ when I doubt that I am doing more than 40mph. I'm used
to gauges needing calibrating (the car has 165/15 tires so I don't thing that
is the cause of the speedo issues) and gauges failing outright but I have not
experienced this kind of failure where the gauges are reading wildly high. Is
there anything I could do before I just pull them out and send them to someone
to diagnose and repair ?

Stan

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 12 15:30:48 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 14:30:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] clutch fork pins
Message-ID: <23434.75616.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Yesterday I tried to remove the little pins on the fork that actuates the throw 
out bearing and could not get them off.  I was using a bench vise and put all 
the pressure I could.  It got me to thinking.........which way do they come 
off?  I assumed they push out toward the outside of the fork so I was pushing 
from the inside.  However on close inspection I'm thinking maybe they should be 
pushed toward the inside to get them off?

If they are installed from the inside pushing them out.........then they must 
have been peened over on the outside since mine have that look on the outside.  
They are not worn as bad as they could be so I'm thinking of leaving them as 
they are rather than ruining something.

just curious

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 12 15:41:58 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 14:41:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
In-Reply-To: <25E0AFB3FA9F45E8B7FC2D056B0E3158@CarlPC>
References: <32cd0.13a6a031.3a0e92ab@cs.com>
	<4C2D8DF4C82248F8A3527CE5E929C2BA@CarlPC>
	<001701cb8280$8f5c80a0$ae1581e0$@com>
	<25E0AFB3FA9F45E8B7FC2D056B0E3158@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <018101cb82ba$d117d8c0$73478a40$@rr.com>

> Has anyone else seen that the time stamp is off by an odd amount.   I
> sent
> it at 8:45 this morning and the time stamp is 5:18....  There is no way
> I am
> up at 5am.....

That's strange, since it showed up on my computer at 5:43 this morning.
Maybe your clock is wrong <G>

Actually, I believe you hit send at around 8:17 EST, which is 5:17 PST.  For
whatever reason, it took the Team.Net server about 25 minutes between the
time it got your email (at 6:17 MST) and sent it out again (at 6:42 MST
which is 5:42 PST).

One of my favorite analogies is the dancing bear.  What is amazing is not
how well it dances, but that it dances at all.

-- Randall 

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Nov 12 15:44:51 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 15:44:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Engine Rebuild -- Sorta
In-Reply-To: <001401cb82b3$ded10bf0$9c7323d0$@net>
References: <001401cb82b3$ded10bf0$9c7323d0$@net>
Message-ID: <6379968861134623A094B155EED26076@bboffice>

30psi at hot idle, about 750rpm, is a pretty good benchmark for a Triumph,
an MG motor shouldn't be any different.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Adrian Jones
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 2:52 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Engine Rebuild -- Sorta

Can the rod, main and thrust washers can be replaced from under the car
after dropping the oil pan?

I've done this in the 1500 MG Midget.

The satisfaction in seeing the improvement in oil pressure was immense.  

A good winter project, taking one's time and trying to enjoy it.

At hot idle, what oil psi would be considered time to change the bearings
And what rpm are we talking about?

Thanks for any response.
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 12 16:21:30 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 15:21:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] clutch fork pins
In-Reply-To: <23434.75616.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <23434.75616.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <019b01cb82c0$572b2c50$058184f0$@rr.com>

> However on close inspection I'm thinking maybe they
> should be
> pushed toward the inside to get them off?
> 
> If they are installed from the inside pushing them out.........then
> they must
> have been peened over on the outside

Yes, and yes.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 12 16:23:56 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 15:23:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A speedo and tach issues
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CBD453@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CBD453@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <019c01cb82c0$adf0c400$09d24c00$@rr.com>

> Is
> there anything I could do before I just pull them out and send them to
> someone
> to diagnose and repair ?

Yes.  Try running them with the cables significantly loose (nut on by just a
few threads) on the back of the instrument.  New cables are frequently too
long, and the pressure on the mechanism makes it malfunction.

There was even a factory service bulletin on this point, I believe.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 12 16:29:48 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 15:29:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] Engine Rebuild -- Sorta
In-Reply-To: <001401cb82b3$ded10bf0$9c7323d0$@net>
References: <001401cb82b3$ded10bf0$9c7323d0$@net>
Message-ID: <019d01cb82c1$7f8df5a0$7ea9e0e0$@rr.com>

> Can the rod, main and thrust washers can be replaced from under the car
> after dropping the oil pan?

Rod bearings on a TR2-4, yes.  Thrusts also, but they rarely wear much on
the TRactor motors.

The front & rear main bearings are more problematic.  I was able to get my
rear main cap out without removing the flywheel, but others have reported
that theirs wouldn't come off (so it may depend on which flywheel you have,
etc).  To remove the front cap, you have to remove the spacer block, which
will tear the gasket for the front plate and potentially leave a leak.

My suggestion would be to do the rod bearings, and leave it at that.  If the
mains & thrust are also badly worn, likely it's time to do the overhaul.

IOW, do as I say, not as I do <G>

Of course there are lots of other Triumphs, and I have no idea how much of
this does, or does not apply, to them.  Dropping the pan on a Stag looks
like a major undertaking ...

-- Randall 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Nov 12 16:40:06 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 16:40:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A speedo and tach issues
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CBD453@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CBD453@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikMq+C0oz6xgMfhuxYs+yOY+XpD4uu9nHBeyL4W@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/12/10, Foster, Stan (HP IT) <stan.foster at hp.com> wrote:
> Is there anything I could do before I just pull them out and send them to
> someone to diagnose and repair ?

There is quite a bit you can do depending on how crafty &
adventuresome you're feeling.  This site has an excellent tutorial
that includes calibration & assembly:

http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/

At a minimum you could try your hand at reclaibration and see what
results you get.  Depending on the underlying cause your results may
not prove to be linear... i.e. you may only be able to get it accurate
in part of the range, but possibly worth a try.

Geo

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Nov 12 17:10:08 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 19:10:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Engine Rebuild -- Sorta
References: <837479708.1165107.1289564534026.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><244049657.1165138.1289564598393.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<012701cb8290$d024b840$706e28c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4C6D4D9189B645D8A16721E0D31A7646@userb38463fba5>

I'll share a short story that will also answer your question. Several years 
ago I was coming back from Import Carlisle. About a 5 hour trip. I run 
20W-50 oil. When I stopped at the Turnpike Toll gate between PA and Ohio I 
happened to glance at my oil pressure. It was about 5 pounds, maybe less. 
Came up when I revved the engine and at 70 MPH it was maybe 40 pounds. 
Needless to say I needed to do something. The next weekend I dropped the pan 
and found the rod bearings pretty worn and in spots you could see the 
copper. I replaced them but I went  one step further and also rebuilt the 
oil pump. This had never been done on my engine. It's a 1966 TR4A that I've 
owned since 1969. 1 rebuild on the engine, original crank, standard size 
bearings. The most important part of the oil pump rebuild is to get the 
clearance between the bottom plate and the rotors as close to spec as you 
can. In my case the bottom plate had a lot of wear and was badly scored. I 
used emory paper on a piece of glass and worked the bottom plate until the 
scores were gone and the plate was flat. It takes a lot of work to hone that 
plate. Oil on the emory helps too. Start with coarse and work the scores out 
then go to a fine to get it as smooth as you can. Be sure the rotor to rotor 
and rotor to case clearances are at spec too. That was in 2001 and since 
then I've had excellent oil pressure at hot idle (40 or better) and 65 at 
hot running speeds. Still an original crank too with a guess of close to 
100,000 miles on the crank.

It worked for me.

JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine Rebuild -- Sorta


>> Book says to replace the rod bearings at 50k.  Without taking them off
>> to peek, I'm wondering how necessary this really is?
>
> Seems to be good preventative maintenance to me.  Like most PM, it's not
> really necessary, but it helps reduce problems farther down the line.  For
> example, it might help avoid having to regrind the crank the next time the
> engine gets "freshened".
>
> Just changing the rod bearings is a pretty minor operation, actually.  I 
> did
> mine in an afternoon, before TRfest (and they really needed it, were worn
> clear into the brass backing).
>
> However, if you want to avoid it, I would suggest keeping track of the oil
> pressure.  If your hot idle pressure is the same as it was right after the
> rebuild, then there is no appreciable wear on the bearings.  But if it has
> been slowly creeping downward ... (mine was down to only 10-20 psi with
> 20W50 oil).
>
> One thing I learned the hard way; if you use the lock tabs on the rod 
> bolts,
> it is essential to replace them every time.  I've been using Loctite
> instead.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com

From hdrider570 at att.net  Fri Nov 12 17:31:52 2010
From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 16:31:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A speedo and tach issues
Message-ID: <4CDDDC78.7000406@att.net>


From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Nov 12 19:27:05 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 19:27:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor mount
In-Reply-To: <75642.25d69ae0.3a0f01fe@cs.com>
References: <75642.25d69ae0.3a0f01fe@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4CDDF779.4070506@bradakis.com>

> When a veterinarian uses fowl language, is he just giving out advice?
>
>
>    

Yes, he's just trying to get more business to help feather his nest.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Nov 12 20:48:36 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 20:48:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] clutch fork pins
In-Reply-To: <23434.75616.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <23434.75616.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4CDE0A94.9070300@bradakis.com>

Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Yesterday I tried to remove the little pins on the fork that actuates the throw
> out bearing
>    

Why??

mjb.

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Nov 13 00:53:25 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 01:53:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] manifold gaskets
In-Reply-To: <011901cb828c$f6018c40$e204a4c0$@rr.com>
References: <401374313.1164855.1289564171174.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20101112155754.A9CA9187867@autox.team.net>
	<011901cb828c$f6018c40$e204a4c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20101113075304.63F7E187681@autox.team.net>

No, these are for the high port head.  Thanks for asking - want to 
keep that clear.

- Tony Drews

At 11:13 AM 11/12/2010, Randall wrote:
> > > >The new manifold gaskets for TR2 - 4 have been delivered from the
> > > >manufacturer and are now available.
>
> > I have 3 sets on the
> > shelf at the moment.
>
>Just curious, Tony, are you really stocking gaskets for the early low port
>heads?
>
>-- Randall

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Sat Nov 13 03:56:00 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 11:56:00 +0100
Subject: [TR] Engine Rebuild -- Sorta
References: <244049657.1165138.1289564598393.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <87861A47871C4DC18B4292A120C73498@Study>

My experience here was as follows. About 50,000 miles and 25 years after a 
complete and successful rebuild I began to notice that after a longish blast 
at 3000+ rpm down a french autoroute on a warm day, on leaving the autoroute 
and going to normal road driving the oil pressure at 2000 would be perhaps 
30-40.  After perhaps a half hour the pressure would recover to it's normal 
60-70.. Gave much thought to an oil cooler but changed the big end bearings 
first. Since then and another 20,000 miles on, I have seen my 70psi under 
all conditions. I use 20-50 oil from a reputable maker depending on special 
offers.
Of course YMMV!

David Brister
1967 TR4A
CTC 77785  O



--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 12404 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Nov 14 07:16:48 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 14:16:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Carb vacuum advance
In-Reply-To: <1983593852.1245800.1289743922168.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1996817217.1245940.1289744208610.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Installing the vacuum advance union into the front carb with the carbs in place is a pain because it's so hard to get at.  It's also hard to tell if the compression ring has been seated.  

Has anyone cut a seven inch or so length of copper tube, installed it in the union, and then used a rubber hose to splice it to the rest of the copper tubing leading to the vacuum advance on the distributor?  Then it would be a simple matter of tugging off a rubber hose to remove the carbs?

Terry Smith
'59 TR3A, New Hampshire

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Nov 14 07:55:28 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 07:55:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Carb vacuum advance
In-Reply-To: <1996817217.1245940.1289744208610.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1983593852.1245800.1289743922168.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1996817217.1245940.1289744208610.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B19EDC8DFB18434CBB39F4C9CDDDA5DC@bboffice>

Good idea, I have not seen it done before, but can not think of any reason
that it would not work as long as the tubing was a good snug fit.  I usually
don't have much trouble getting it on with a small ignition spanner, but it
is a pain getting it done when you really can't see what you are doing.

Bill
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 7:17 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Carb vacuum advance

Installing the vacuum advance union into the front carb with the carbs in
place is a pain because it's so hard to get at.  It's also hard to tell if
the compression ring has been seated.  

Has anyone cut a seven inch or so length of copper tube, installed it in the
union, and then used a rubber hose to splice it to the rest of the copper
tubing leading to the vacuum advance on the distributor?  Then it would be a
simple matter of tugging off a rubber hose to remove the carbs?

Terry Smith
'59 TR3A, New Hampshire
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From hdrider570 at att.net  Sun Nov 14 08:48:40 2010
From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net)
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 07:48:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR3A speedo and tach issues
Message-ID: <4CE004D8.6010502@att.net>

I have found in the past that the bearing between the two halves of the
magnetic drive is gummed up with 50 year old oil. The increased
viscosity of the (former) oil makes it acts like a fluid drive device
and increases the meter readings. The cure is to carefully dissemble the 
gauge and clean out the bearing and lube with very light oil. I use
Marvel Mystery oil when I do this work.

Randal is correct in saying that many have had similar issues due to
slightly over length drive cables but it sounded like you had this
problem prior to the change.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov 14 09:12:44 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 08:12:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] Carb vacuum advance
In-Reply-To: <1996817217.1245940.1289744208610.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1983593852.1245800.1289743922168.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1996817217.1245940.1289744208610.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <02aa01cb8416$c5d7c3f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Has anyone cut a seven inch or so length of copper tube, 
> installed it in the union, and then used a rubber hose to 
> splice it to the rest of the copper tubing leading to the 
> vacuum advance on the distributor? 

I've done basically the same thing, except mine is close to the distributor.
Biggest problem is finding rubber tubing small enough to be a snug fit over
the tiny copper tubing, and also rated for vacuum.  I wound up having to
clamp it onto the copper with a few turns of safety wire, which kind of
negates the ease of putting it on and off.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov 14 09:26:14 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 08:26:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR3A speedo and tach issues
In-Reply-To: <4CE004D8.6010502@att.net>
References: <4CE004D8.6010502@att.net>
Message-ID: <02ae01cb8418$a88e7120$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have found in the past that the bearing between the two 
> halves of the
> magnetic drive is gummed up with 50 year old oil.

I agree, and in fact I'm pretty sure that's the problem I have right now
with TS13571L.  But disassembling the gauge to reach that bearing is kind of
a finicky operation; last time I tried it, the shaft broke before the
pointer came off.  So if that is the problem, you might want to consider
sending it to a professional instead.

In case someone hasn't already supplied it, here is a link to Tony Rhodes'
excellent article on speedo repair:
http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/speedo.html

-- Randall  

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Nov 14 11:53:23 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 12:53:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Carb_vacuum_advance?=
Message-ID: <20101114185238.7CE7418764B@autox.team.net>

Hose from ace hardware. Less then a quarter to replace. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, Nov 14, 2010 10:12
Subject: [TR] Carb vacuum advance
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

> Has anyone cut a seven inch or so length of copper tube, 
> installed it in the union, and then used a rubber hose to 
> splice it to the rest of the copper tubing leading to the 
> vacuum advance on the distributor? 

I've done basically the same thing, except mine is close to the distributor.
Biggest problem is finding rubber tubing small enough to be a snug fit over
the tiny copper tubing, and also rated for vacuum.  I wound up having to
clamp it onto the copper with a few turns of safety wire, which kind of
negates the ease of putting it on and off.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sun Nov 14 16:44:22 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 18:44:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Switch bezel tools TR4A
Message-ID: <971203C9530E4253A2010638A4FD8227@userb38463fba5>

Looking for any feedback on the bezel nut tools offered on E-Bay by Custom
Machine Components. It looks like I'd need to buy a tool for the ignition
switch and another for the balance of the switches.

What is the groups experience? Do they work? Looks like a reasonable price to
pay for something that works.

Opinions?

JVV

From pryner at verizon.net  Sun Nov 14 17:27:49 2010
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 19:27:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Early TR-3 side curtains FS
In-Reply-To: <4CE004D8.6010502@att.net>
References: <4CE004D8.6010502@att.net>
Message-ID: <9358B4E047974D33BE4D9473BD2B09B7@PetePC>

I have a set of wedge type side curtains for sale at a very reasonable 
price.  These are NOT factory curtains.  They are an aftermarket set that 
appear to be made of aluminum with vinyl covering.  The wedge mounts are 
bolted to the frame - not all of the bolts are available.  One mount arm is 
no longer attached, but the holes are predrilled.  The plastic windows are 
fair and one has a crack broken out on the moveable window.  I'm not looking 
to make a fortune on these, just want to make them available to anyone who 
may want a side curtain to use without having to use their renovated ones. 
Asking $40 plus shipping for the pair.  Shipping is from Tampa FL.  You are 
more than welcome to pick them up and save the shipping costs.  Please email 
off list with any questions or if you want pictures.
TIA
Pete 

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Nov 14 18:44:58 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 20:44:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Switch bezel tools TR4A
In-Reply-To: <971203C9530E4253A2010638A4FD8227@userb38463fba5>
References: <971203C9530E4253A2010638A4FD8227@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <95067FE1A0EA4B05866E0824B2919EA8@laptopPC>

The one I ordered ended up not fitting so make sure you specify to them the 
car year, make and bezel you want to remove. They were very good about it 
when I told them my problem.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 running with
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 6:44 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Switch bezel tools TR4A

Looking for any feedback on the bezel nut tools offered on E-Bay by Custom
Machine Components. It looks like I'd need to buy a tool for the ignition
switch and another for the balance of the switches.

What is the groups experience? Do they work? Looks like a reasonable price 
to
pay for something that works.

Opinions?

JVV
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Nov 15 05:22:13 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 07:22:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Switch bezel tools TR4A
In-Reply-To: <971203C9530E4253A2010638A4FD8227@userb38463fba5>
References: <971203C9530E4253A2010638A4FD8227@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <201011150722.14591.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, November 14, 2010 06:44:22 pm Jerry Van Vlack wrote:
> Looking for any feedback on the bezel nut tools offered on E-Bay by Custom
> Machine Components. It looks like I'd need to buy a tool for the ignition
> switch and another for the balance of the switches.
> 
> What is the groups experience? Do they work? Looks like a reasonable price
> to pay for something that works.
> 
> Opinions?
> 
> JVV
>
Jerry,

I got one for my TR4 ignition. Worked as expected.

Bob

From blanoway at shaw.ca  Mon Nov 15 07:26:42 2010
From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 08:26:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] LBC major gathering - new event ideas?
Message-ID: <BFDB23F528A84852944635A12FA508B6@Lanowaylaptop>

Ive been elected as one of the co-chairs for a major LBC event that well
be having in 2012.  The event is called the Rendezvous, usually with 100+
registrations from Wisconsin, Minnesota, the Dakotas, Ontario, Manitoba and
Saskatchewan.

Over the past 20 years, we seem to have converged on the familiar formula of
a meet & greet, optional golf, tours, funkhana, rally, car show with
awards, silent auction and closing banquet with a guest speaker.  While this
traditional program is comforting and expected, we would like to spice up
our 2012 Rendezvous with some new large-group LBC activities.

Im sure many on the List have attended or organized a different, unusual
and successful event at one of their LBC gatherings.  If so, could you
please post these to the List?  Some background as to why you thought the
event worked would also be most helpful.

By the way, our June 2012 Rendezvous will be held in Kenora, Ontario on
the Lake of the Woods - a beautiful, water-side location in paradise - for
those that may be interested.  Next year, well be heading to the 2011
Rendezvous on the Red, hosted by the British Iron Society, in Fargo, North
Dakota.

Many thanks in advance,

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 15 09:21:25 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 08:21:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] pressure plate
Message-ID: <562284.26684.qm@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I'm in the process of going through stuff and trying to decide what to re-use 
and what to buy new for tr-3 restoration.  Is it best to buy a new clutch 
pressure plate?  How does one check the condition of a used one?  I'm sure i'll 
get a new driven plate, as well as new fork shaft bearings, fork pins and throw 
out bearing.

thanks

gary n.

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Nov 15 11:15:07 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 18:15:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] LBC major gathering - new event ideas?
In-Reply-To: <1184900600.1061314.1289844843787.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1506641175.1061414.1289844907507.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I have enjoyed the Rendezvous often in the last ten years.  Didn't make it every year.  I always like it when they have an autocross.  I especially like the autocross/speed-run combination when we are lucky enough to have an airport site.

I'm a car guy and couldn't care less about golf.

My favorite feature of organized tours is a section where the route doubles back on itself or runs both sides of a canyon/valley so the participants get to see the other cars on the road.

Family scheduling is not settled yet, but I may be seeing you in Fargo.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "Brian Lanoway" <blanoway at shaw.ca>
> To: "Triumphs Digest" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 8:26:42 AM
> Subject: [TR] LBC major gathering - new event ideas?
> 
> Ive been elected as one of the co-chairs for a major LBC event that
> well
> be having in 2012.  The event is called the Rendezvous, usually with
> 100+
> registrations from Wisconsin, Minnesota, the Dakotas, Ontario,
> Manitoba and
> Saskatchewan.
> 
> Over the past 20 years, we seem to have converged on the familiar
> formula of
> a meet & greet, optional golf, tours, funkhana, rally, car show with
> awards, silent auction and closing banquet with a guest speaker. 
> While this
> traditional program is comforting and expected, we would like to spice
> up
> our 2012 Rendezvous with some new large-group LBC activities.
> 
> Im sure many on the List have attended or organized a different,
> unusual
> and successful event at one of their LBC gatherings.  If so, could
> you
> please post these to the List?  Some background as to why you thought
> the
> event worked would also be most helpful.
> 
> By the way, our June 2012 Rendezvous will be held in Kenora, Ontario
> on
> the Lake of the Woods - a beautiful, water-side location in paradise -
> for
> those that may be interested.  Next year, well be heading to the 2011
> Rendezvous on the Red, hosted by the British Iron Society, in Fargo,
> North
> Dakota.
> 
> Many thanks in advance,
> 
> Brian Lanoway
> 1973 TR6
> Winnipeg
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Nov 15 11:56:17 2010
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 10:56:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] head & block repair
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F11A5E9C5@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Want to pass along some information to any and all interested.
I was at a large automotive trade show a couple of weeks ago and ran
into a shop that does head and block repair.  They say they can fix most
anything depending mostly on the condition of the existing metal.  They
list themselves as a diesel shop, but have done British before and are
currently working on an Austin-Healey head.
Diesel Head Parts & Service
210A Sam Rayburn Pkwy
Lenoir City, TN
865-270-8200
www.dieseldhp.com

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Nov 15 12:04:16 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 14:04:16 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Choices
Message-ID: <3e4cc.70cda491.3a12de30@aol.com>

List,
 
If this thread has been worked over previously, please let me know where I  
can get info off-list and I'll save us some bandwidth!
 
A good friend of mine in our club lost lots of coolant from his radiator in 
 his TR3 over the weekend to a plastic grocery bag.  It seems that he  
couldn't avoid it blowing across the road and it snagged at 3000rpm onto the  
radiator fan which beat the poor radiator into a million leaks.  It's  been 
awhile since he's done any radiator service (1966!) so he's  not complaining 
about its longevity!
 
His question is: should he replace the radiator with an aluminum radiator  
or a stock "OEM" replacement?
 
He does not race the car and is not interested in any kind of performance  
upgrade or coolant system upgrade because the old radiator worked just fine  
before the plastic bag incident.  His reason for asking is to get a sense  
of whether the extra cost for an aluminum radiator makes sense because of  
possibly better heat transfer, easier installation, longer life than probably 
 Chinese made OEM radiator, etc?
 
Any thoughts from those of you who were at a similar decision point some  
time recently?
 
If it weren't for the likelihood that the new OEM radiator will probably be 
 made with less quality than his original, I would vote for an OEM unit 
from one  the usual suppliers.  'Course, if the aluminum radiator is also made  
elsewhere then I guess that levels the playing field to consider other  
advantages of aluminum.......
 
Thanks,
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Nov 15 12:16:13 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 19:16:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR3A speedo and tach issues
In-Reply-To: <02ae01cb8418$a88e7120$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <4CE004D8.6010502@att.net> <02ae01cb8418$a88e7120$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CBE9C0@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Thanks everyone for the suggestions regarding tach and speedo issues. I just
called Nisonger and after describing the symptoms the gentleman there said
that this is often due to the instruments losing their magnetism  and the cost
to refurb both clocks will be $175 each, more if they also need new glass and
bezels.

I missed a few on eBay and they seem to go for around $100 and you are never
sure what you are getting so I think I will plan to ship them off and get them
inspected, cleaned and refurbed.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 11:26 AM
To: Triumphs at Autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: TR3A speedo and tach issues

> I have found in the past that the bearing between the two halves of
> the magnetic drive is gummed up with 50 year old oil.

I agree, and in fact I'm pretty sure that's the problem I have right now with
TS13571L.  But disassembling the gauge to reach that bearing is kind of a
finicky operation; last time I tried it, the shaft broke before the pointer
came off.  So if that is the problem, you might want to consider sending it to
a professional instead.

In case someone hasn't already supplied it, here is a link to Tony Rhodes'
excellent article on speedo repair:
http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/speedo.html

-- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov 15 13:23:37 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 12:23:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Choices
In-Reply-To: <3e4cc.70cda491.3a12de30@aol.com>
References: <3e4cc.70cda491.3a12de30@aol.com>
Message-ID: <021801cb8502$fc720230$f5560690$@rr.com>

> His question is: should he replace the radiator with an aluminum
> radiator
> or a stock "OEM" replacement?

My suggestion would be neither.  Instead, first take the old ruined radiator
to a good local radiator shop and see if they can install a modern core in
it.  Only the tanks & frame need to be repairable to take that path.  The
result will fit and look original (because it is), but cool better and weigh
less.  And the cost of a quality core installed is reasonably close to that
"unknown" replacement radiator.

At the same time, he can decide if he wants any "improvements", like
deleting the crank hole (for about 10% more cooling); changing the cap
fitting for a modern cap; having the extension tank to upper tank joint
reinforced; adding brackets for an electric fan, etc.  Here's a shot of
mine, with a Modine core installed and the upper tank reinforced.  (Not
shown is the modern filler, so I can run a 10 psi Lev-R-Vent cap and use
less force to remove it.)
http://tinyurl.com/22pjdqf

-- Randall 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Nov 15 13:49:56 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 14:49:56 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Choices
Message-ID: <1492810461.323912.1289854196266.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

At an added cost of only about $100 (retail at TRF -  could be less with sales, promotions, and source), if I were having to swap out I would opt for the alloy.   Even under normal and conservative driving - there is always the concern about overheating in the '3.
 
The difference was almost double when i was going through the same decision process 6 years ago and opted for repairing the OEM - it wasn't toast so at about 1/2 of a new one it was a nobrainer.  Might think differently now.  
 
JM2CW
Carl


Nov 15, 2010 07:31:34 PM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:

List,

If this thread has been worked over previously, please let me know where I 
can get info off-list and I'll save us some bandwidth!

A good friend of mine in our club lost lots of coolant from his radiator in 
his TR3 over the weekend to a plastic grocery bag. It seems that he 
couldn't avoid it blowing across the road and it snagged at 3000rpm onto the 
radiator fan which beat the poor radiator into a million leaks. It's been 
awhile since he's done any radiator service (1966!) so he's not complaining 
about its longevity!

His question is: should he replace the radiator with an aluminum radiator 
or a stock "OEM" replacement?

He does not race the car and is not interested in any kind of performance 
upgrade or coolant system upgrade because the old radiator worked just fine 
before the plastic bag incident. His reason for asking is to get a sense 
of whether the extra cost for an aluminum radiator makes sense because of 
possibly better heat transfer, easier installation, longer life than probably 
Chinese made OEM radiator, etc?

Any thoughts from those of you who were at a similar decision point some 
time recently?

If it weren't for the likelihood that the new OEM radiator will probably be 
made with less quality than his original, I would vote for an OEM unit 
from one the usual suppliers. 'Course, if the aluminum radiator is also made 
elsewhere then I guess that levels the playing field to consider other 
advantages of aluminum.......

Thanks,

Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Mon Nov 15 14:35:19 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (Aaron)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 16:35:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Choices
In-Reply-To: <3e4cc.70cda491.3a12de30@aol.com>
References: <3e4cc.70cda491.3a12de30@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D81B4710-E8C5-49B5-8AC5-7073284A87C1@aol.com>

Chip, a third alternative is to take it to a good radiator repair shop and get
an estimate. Might prove to be the best alternative for price and quality.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 15, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:

> List,
>
> If this thread has been worked over previously, please let me know where I
> can get info off-list and I'll save us some bandwidth!
>
> A good friend of mine in our club lost lots of coolant from his radiator in
> his TR3 over the weekend to a plastic grocery bag.  It seems that he
> couldn't avoid it blowing across the road and it snagged at 3000rpm onto the
> radiator fan which beat the poor radiator into a million leaks.  It's  been
> awhile since he's done any radiator service (1966!) so he's  not complaining
> about its longevity!
>
> His question is: should he replace the radiator with an aluminum radiator
> or a stock "OEM" replacement?
>
> He does not race the car and is not interested in any kind of performance
> upgrade or coolant system upgrade because the old radiator worked just fine
> before the plastic bag incident.  His reason for asking is to get a sense
> of whether the extra cost for an aluminum radiator makes sense because of
> possibly better heat transfer, easier installation, longer life than
probably
> Chinese made OEM radiator, etc?
>
> Any thoughts from those of you who were at a similar decision point some
> time recently?
>
> If it weren't for the likelihood that the new OEM radiator will probably be
> made with less quality than his original, I would vote for an OEM unit
> from one  the usual suppliers.  'Course, if the aluminum radiator is also
made
> elsewhere then I guess that levels the playing field to consider other
> advantages of aluminum.......
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1976 TR6  CF57822U
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Nov 15 15:20:23 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 22:20:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Choices
In-Reply-To: <1492810461.323912.1289854196266.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
Message-ID: <180790318.1322685.1289859623782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>At an added cost of only about $100 (retail at TRF -  could be less with sales, promotions, and source), if I were having to swap out I would opt for >the alloy.   Even under normal and conservative driving - there is always the concern about overheating in the '3.
 
FWIW, I couldn't find a local radiator shop in NH without traveling quite a distance, so went with the TRF radiator.  Fits great, cools great.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667
NH

From guy at genfiniti.com  Mon Nov 15 16:07:53 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 17:07:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Adding and aligning doors question
Message-ID: <4636E790-F65C-40B0-AB87-79C19D451336@genfiniti.com>

Listers,

Making great progress on the restoration!
Now I am ready to tackle the doors.

The doors are rebuilt, and I'm ready to align the gaps, etc.
I got the windshield frame (with the finisher piece) added already, as well as
the door striker and catch (loosely) on the B post.
Please look over my planned steps and let me know if I should do something in
a different order, or forgot something.

1. Add the outer rubber seal
2. Add the inner fuzzy seal
3. Loose fit the doors to the tub, so they can be "closed".
4. Align the doors left to right, top to bottom, to eyeball perfection using
spacers between the door and body. (I understand I may have to add/remove
shims from the body mounts to get this right.)
5. Raise the window to make sure it fits into the windshield's seal.  If not
correct, tweak the angle of the windshield frame.
6. Repeat for other side.
7. Only when both doors are eyeball perfect, and the raised windows seal, then
tighten everything up (door mounts, windshield frame)
8. Check.  If imperfect, fine tune.  When as "good as it gets", beer.

Anywhere I should do these in a different order?
Any other tidbits of excellent, or even mediocre, advice?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Nov 15 16:09:58 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 18:09:58 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Choices
Message-ID: <3f015.2f9ac39.3a1317c6@aol.com>

Hi Chip;
 
Basically: "Wot Randall Said". However, make sure the good radiator shop  
gives a quote first. I asked for a re-core with a thicker core for added  
cooling, reinforcing the filler neck, no starting handle hole and also  
lengthening the bottom hose connection, as I found the hose slips off  
occasionally. The quote was CAN$600 (usually about a dime US--just kidding), but  final 
cost with our ridiculous taxes was $758. For that money, I might've been  
tempted by the aluminium rad. However, it works great. Too great, in fact, as  
the sodding thing won't warm up! Still, no longer overheating, especially 
with  the TR6 fan conversion kit (which I prefer over the electric setup, 
just a  personal thing) and British Parts Northwest upgraded water pump 
(fantastic  mod!!).
 
That's it. Rad shop, see what they can do.
 
Tim

From miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 15 16:15:52 2010
From: miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net (Miscuse1)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 18:15:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR3A speedo and tach issues
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CBE9C0@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <4CE004D8.6010502@att.net> <02ae01cb8418$a88e7120$0301a8c0@randall>
	<0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CBE9C0@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <000c01cb851b$0ce904c0$26bb0e40$@net>

I had my gauges rebuilt by Pete and the gang at Nisonger. They are
beautiful. Pete and his team did a great job.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT)
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 2:16 PM
To: Triumphs at Autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: TR3A speedo and tach issues

Thanks everyone for the suggestions regarding tach and speedo issues. I just
called Nisonger and after describing the symptoms the gentleman there said
that this is often due to the instruments losing their magnetism  and the
cost
to refurb both clocks will be $175 each, more if they also need new glass
and
bezels.

I missed a few on eBay and they seem to go for around $100 and you are never
sure what you are getting so I think I will plan to ship them off and get
them
inspected, cleaned and refurbed.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 11:26 AM
To: Triumphs at Autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: TR3A speedo and tach issues

> I have found in the past that the bearing between the two halves of
> the magnetic drive is gummed up with 50 year old oil.

I agree, and in fact I'm pretty sure that's the problem I have right now
with
TS13571L.  But disassembling the gauge to reach that bearing is kind of a
finicky operation; last time I tried it, the shaft broke before the pointer
came off.  So if that is the problem, you might want to consider sending it
to
a professional instead.

In case someone hasn't already supplied it, here is a link to Tony Rhodes'
excellent article on speedo repair:
http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/speedo.html

-- Randall
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/miscuse1 at sbcglobal.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Nov 15 17:38:27 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 18:38:27 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Adding and aligning doors question
Message-ID: <11558631.352396.1289867907212.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

"loose fit" - you will need to tighten bolts sufficiently to hold the door in place for opening/closing.  for me that was more than 'finger' tight.  
Also - put a piece of blue painter's tape around the edges (both on door and opening) so that you don't swear at yourself later...  btd &%* that
 
 
Carl


Nov 15, 2010 11:39:19 PM, guy at genfiniti.com wrote:

Listers,

Making great progress on the restoration!
Now I am ready to tackle the doors.

The doors are rebuilt, and I'm ready to align the gaps, etc.
I got the windshield frame (with the finisher piece) added already, as well as
the door striker and catch (loosely) on the B post.
Please look over my planned steps and let me know if I should do something in
a different order, or forgot something.

1. Add the outer rubber seal
2. Add the inner fuzzy seal
3. Loose fit the doors to the tub, so they can be "closed".
4. Align the doors left to right, top to bottom, to eyeball perfection using
spacers between the door and body. (I understand I may have to add/remove
shims from the body mounts to get this right.)
5. Raise the window to make sure it fits into the windshield's seal. If not
correct, tweak the angle of the windshield frame.
6. Repeat for other side.
7. Only when both doors are eyeball perfect, and the raised windows seal, then
tighten everything up (door mounts, windshield frame)
8. Check. If imperfect, fine tune. When as "good as it gets", beer.

Anywhere I should do these in a different order?
Any other tidbits of excellent, or even mediocre, advice?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net  Tue Nov 16 14:30:46 2010
From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 16:30:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Engine Rebuild -- Sorta
Message-ID: <002101cb85d5$8849b050$98dd10f0$@net>

Thanks for the info Bill.

The engine is running at 32 psi at a hot idle of 700 rpm so I think it is in
good shape.

 

Randall, thanks for the suggestion of just re-newing the rod bearings -
makes it a lot easier!  BTW, the loctite you use instead of the lock washers
- is that the regular blue or the heavy duty red?

 

Cheers!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov 16 16:27:40 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 15:27:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] Engine Rebuild -- Sorta
In-Reply-To: <002101cb85d5$8849b050$98dd10f0$@net>
References: <002101cb85d5$8849b050$98dd10f0$@net>
Message-ID: <014a01cb85e5$dcec74c0$96c55e40$@rr.com>

> BTW, the loctite you use instead of the lock
> washers
> - is that the regular blue or the heavy duty red?

I'm always nervous identifying Loctite by color, as they make literally
hundreds of different formulas in only a handful of different colors.
Here's a partial list:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-threadlockers/=9qytz5

However, for rod bolts, I use Loctite 243, "medium strength, oil resistant,
for fasteners 1/4-3/4" which is blue.  Don't know that it is best, just what
I use.

Also, it's worth checking that removing the lock tabs doesn't make the bolts
too long.  I've never seen it, but it could happen.  Just turn the bolt in
lightly (by hand) without the cap, and check that the exposed shank is
shorter than the thickness of the cap.

-- Randall 

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Nov 17 07:14:38 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2010 09:14:38 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Post - Thanks
Message-ID: <45f1b.3f62e79d.3a153d4e@aol.com>

Thanks to all who responded to my recent post on radiator options for my  
friend Mike's TR3.....I forwarded your responses to him; I'm sure he'll be 
back  on the road one more time soon before the snow starts falling:)
 
Chip

From chandler.rick at comcast.net  Wed Nov 17 17:35:24 2010
From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2010 16:35:24 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A plugs #3 and #4 running colder
Message-ID: <F9248E3EC6BB4D07806A5785244FE390@RickPC>

I did a plug check on my TR3A today. While the front two plugs looked great
(light tan insulators), # 3 was much darker and #4 was sooty. Plugs are NGK
BP6HS. I seem to remember a discussion here a year or so ago concerning #4
running cooler than the other cylinders. I checked the archives, but no
cigar. Anyone remember this discussion? I'm planning to lean out the rear
carb a few flats (HS6s), but I'd rather do it with a bit more information.
Car runs fine, with only 800 miles since the rebuild.

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1972 Norton 750 Commando Combat

1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Nov 17 18:42:30 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2010 18:42:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A plugs #3 and #4 running colder
In-Reply-To: <F9248E3EC6BB4D07806A5785244FE390@RickPC>
References: <F9248E3EC6BB4D07806A5785244FE390@RickPC>
Message-ID: <CD32E725-B25F-4B48-9E41-40AF846AB815@flash.net>

Rick,
What I remember was that #4 runs a little hotter as it gets the tail end of
the coolant flow and the least amount of air.  Go ahead and bring the
adjustment down a flat at a time and see how it goes.

Mobile Bill

On Nov 17, 2010, at 5:35 PM, "Rick" <chandler.rick at comcast.net> wrote:

> I did a plug check on my TR3A today. While the front two plugs looked great
> (light tan insulators), # 3 was much darker and #4 was sooty. Plugs are NGK
> BP6HS. I seem to remember a discussion here a year or so ago concerning #4
> running cooler than the other cylinders. I checked the archives, but no
> cigar. Anyone remember this discussion? I'm planning to lean out the rear
> carb a few flats (HS6s), but I'd rather do it with a bit more information.
> Car runs fine, with only 800 miles since the rebuild.
>
>
>
> Rick in Seattle
>
> 1960 TR3A
>
> 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special
>
> 1972 Norton 750 Commando Combat
>
> 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From guy at genfiniti.com  Thu Nov 18 09:42:12 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 10:42:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Window seal orientation
Message-ID: <6C2123D0-930F-422F-A6A9-FA3C287B241C@genfiniti.com>

All,

Can anyone tell me how the outer, rubber seal on the top of the door is
supposed to be oriented?
If I put it on with the long "blade" toward the glass, then it resists the
window being rolled down, which seems incorrect. (It folds in on itself.)
If I put the long "blade" away from the glass, then the clip recesses face the
door's mounting flange, which also seems incorrect.

I've already ruined one seal fiddling with this, and don't want to repeat the
mistakes.

Thanks in advance.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Thu Nov 18 15:41:44 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 17:41:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] EZ-On Top for TR4
Message-ID: <923C21A9869448F5B447617BCBEEDF8E@TRGUY>

Anyone have feedback on EZ-On convertible tops for TR3 or TR4 with factory
installed lift-a-dot snaps.  The company used be AMCO and I have an AMCO top
for my TR6 and love it.  That one didn't come with snaps installed.  I am
interested in a new TR4 top and it has the lift-a-dot snaps already installed
from the factory.  Is this a good or bad idea? Should I opt for a top without
lift-a-dots already installed?
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6
Maitland, FL

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 18 17:00:40 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 16:00:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] EZ-On Top for TR4
In-Reply-To: <923C21A9869448F5B447617BCBEEDF8E@TRGUY>
References: <923C21A9869448F5B447617BCBEEDF8E@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <042801cb877c$d2d26790$787736b0$@rr.com>

> Anyone have feedback on EZ-On convertible tops for TR3 or TR4 with
> factory
> installed lift-a-dot snaps.  

Might be OK for a TR4, but TR3s have a lot of variation between cars as to
where the LTD studs are located.  It appears that there are at least 3
change points, where the LTD pattern changed significantly (more than 1" per
stud), and smaller variations between cars, apparently just because the
factory did not use any sort of template when drilling the holes.

-- Randall 

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Nov 18 17:06:43 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 00:06:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Affinity Photography is Doug Chadwick
In-Reply-To: <396180336.1271412.1290125169775.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1291889346.1271456.1290125203348.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Affinity Photography is Doug Chadwick, the panorama photographer for the VTR convention.

If you see a charge on your credit card, and you ordered a panorama shot...

It took me a few minutes to make the connection, but the charge that just hit my card is for the panorama picture I ordered at the Lotus Owners Gathering a week before VTR.  Maybe they waited to charge until they shipped.  

Doug told me he was going to Jekyll Island to shoot you all, so I thought I'd issue a reminder for those as absent-minded as I.

BTW, if you want to order panorama pictures from Doug (and you should, since he does fine work), I suggest you order them framed.  I have ordered unframed ones in the past, and I found I could not get framing done cheaper and better locally.  Learned that lesson.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From dkspence at telus.net  Thu Nov 18 22:57:52 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 22:57:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 513
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1290106802.28373.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1290106802.28373.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <704D3F6E-6FDC-4B93-A663-4463B68AFD36@telus.net>

rubber to the glass.  It should "rest" tight to the top of the door  
and seal/wipe the glass. It goes on the outside of the glass.  Tricky  
to install but not to bad with the proper tool. I made mine from a  
wall shelf bracket by bending the tip 90 degrees to form a shelf  
about an eighth of an inch wide. Then used a bit of double sided tape  
to hold the clip in place when lowering the tool and clip. Glass has  
to be down. It helps to place the seal on top of the door and mark  
with a grease pencil or piece of tape, where the indents in the seal  
are so as to guide you in proper clip placement.  Mount the seal, run  
the tool with clip attached down the crack and pull the clip into place.


On 18-Nov-10, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> rom: "G.D. Huggins" <guy at genfiniti.com>
> Date: November 18, 2010 9:42:12 AM MST (CA)
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net, RedRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [TR] TR4A - Window seal orientation
>
>
> All,
>
> Can anyone tell me how the outer, rubber seal on the top of the  
> door is
> supposed to be oriented?
> If I put it on with the long "blade" toward the glass, then it  
> resists the
> window being rolled down, which seems incorrect. (It folds in on  
> itself.)
> If I put the long "blade" away from the glass, then the clip  
> recesses face the
> door's mounting flange, which also seems incorrect.
>
> I've already ruined one seal fiddling with this, and don't want to  
> repeat the
> mistakes.
>
> Thanks in advance.

From guy at genfiniti.com  Fri Nov 19 10:42:57 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 11:42:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A Boot Hinges
Message-ID: <306A7208-E447-418F-8FBB-82794DD419C0@genfiniti.com>

Listers,

Are the boot hinges for a TR4A "handed"; meaning one is for the left side and
the other right?
I certainly would not think this is so, but the thought crossed my mind, so I
wanted to ask the group.

Thanks.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 19 11:49:03 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 10:49:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4A Boot Hinges
In-Reply-To: <306A7208-E447-418F-8FBB-82794DD419C0@genfiniti.com>
References: <306A7208-E447-418F-8FBB-82794DD419C0@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <050301cb881a$708d8080$51a88180$@rr.com>

> Are the boot hinges for a TR4A "handed"; meaning one is for the left
> side and
> the other right?

I believe so.  Certainly they are on the earlier cars (and will quickly
break if you get it wrong), and I see two different part numbers for the 4A.

The reason is because the top of the boot is not perfectly flat.  The hinges
have an angle built into them that compensates for the curve, so the hinge
pins are in a straight line.

-- Randall 

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Nov 19 12:32:21 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 14:32:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Boot Hinges
In-Reply-To: <050301cb881a$708d8080$51a88180$@rr.com>
References: <306A7208-E447-418F-8FBB-82794DD419C0@genfiniti.com>
	<050301cb881a$708d8080$51a88180$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CD56379E16CF29-18C8-66E7@webmail-m057.sysops.aol.com>

Agreed, Randall; the hinges definitely are sided. Good news is that
they're also relatively common, having been used on the Spitfire
through 1970 and on all Heralds (and an earlier style of the same
hinges was used on the Standard 8 / 10 /  Triumph 10).

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er,
Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>

> Are the boot hinges for a TR4A "handed"; meaning one is for the left
> side and
> the other right?

I believe so.  Certainly they are on the earlier cars (and will quickly
break if you get it wrong), and I see two different part numbers for
the 4A.

The reason is because the top of the boot is not perfectly flat.  The
hinges
have an angle built into them that compensates for the curve, so the
hinge
pins are in a straight line.

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Fri Nov 19 15:01:43 2010
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 15:01:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Shameless Self-Promotion TR2-3A
Message-ID: <CA9F650A083C4565824F3B552628D66C@bboffice>

Over the past several months I have working with Gary Nafziger & his TR3, of
our list, to produce the interior wood rail that goes at the top of the
sidescreen doors and the blocks that are attached to this rail for the
mounting of the sidscreen mounts.  While the originals were most likely made
from Ash, I am using a soft Maple that is a tighter grain than Ash with very
stable properties and will hold the Tenax pegs securely as this is a must
for these cars.  While I am not opposed to Ash I think this Maple is a
better choice.
 
This is a very unique piece in that it must be steam-bent to fit in the door
and the top of the rail is concave routed as well.  I work in a professional
cabinet & custom furniture shop that affords me a facility to make these,
and teaches me to be patient.  I believe now that I am able to produce
these, albeit slowly at first, in a consistent quality to provide anyone
with these wood parts when needed.
 
I am not much of an internet marketer other than selling a few things on
eBay from time to time so I am seeking the advice of the list as to the best
venue to make these available.  Also I am not real sure what the best price
is to sell them for, there is a lot of time involved and I know that trying
to selling at our normal billing rate is out of the question but I was
thinking of the following price schedule and welcome everyone's comments on
the subject.
Door Rails=$35ea
Blocks=$20pr
Full Set(left & right rails and four(4) blocks)=$100 for the six pieces
(From my experience with Gary it looks like shipping is running $8-12.)
 
I have pictures available of the finished products if anyone is interested
just let me know and I can send them to you off-line.  I am also in process
of putting together a DIY PowerPoint if anyone wants to try to build their
own.
 
Thanks in Advance for your helpful hints and suggestions, this list has been
invaluable to me during my last few years of restoration.
 
All the best,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Fri Nov 19 15:29:08 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 17:29:08 EST
Subject: [TR] TR4 Rocker Panels Needed
Message-ID: <8d423.5232791f.3a185434@aol.com>

My salesperson at Moss Motors has informed me that rocker panels for TR4's 
(TR6 is the same) are no longer available and the same is true for the other 
major Triumph suppliers.   It it possible that someone here on the list has 
a set of outers to spare?   I might be able to borrow a set from a friend 
locally but don't want to jeopardize his project, which should begin in 
March.   My TR4A project will soon grind to a halt with a slip in delivery date 
if I can't locate panels in the next coupla weeks.   Can anyone help?   
Thanks!
George Haynes

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri Nov 19 15:30:16 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 16:30:16 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Shameless Self-Promotion TR2-3A
Message-ID: <8607194.635595.1290205816814.JavaMail.root@vznit170146>

Wow Bill, I am a TR6 guy myself, but I must say congratulations for doing this!

In my opinion, you should charge whatever you feel is fair and offer them to the list.  If you move on to Ebay, you should auction them with a reserve at the minimum price you are willing to accept to make it worth your time.  Wait until you can list them for free, then list multiple ones at the same time.

Finally, have you considered giving TRF a call to see if they would want to sell them?  I never really looked to see if they offer them, but I do know after dealing with Prestige Autowood out in California that he was selling some of his fantastic dashes through Moss.

Thanks for being someone who contributes to the "sport".

Have a great holiday.

Craig
72 Triumph TR6


Nov 19, 2010 05:15:32 PM, bill_beecher at flash.net wrote:

Over the past several months I have working with Gary Nafziger & his TR3, of
our list, to produce the interior wood rail that goes at the top of the
sidescreen doors and the blocks that are attached to this rail for the
mounting of the sidscreen mounts. While the originals were most likely made
from Ash, I am using a soft Maple that is a tighter grain than Ash with very
stable properties and will hold the Tenax pegs securely as this is a must
for these cars. While I am not opposed to Ash I think this Maple is a
better choice.

This is a very unique piece in that it must be steam-bent to fit in the door
and the top of the rail is concave routed as well. I work in a professional
cabinet & custom furniture shop that affords me a facility to make these,
and teaches me to be patient. I believe now that I am able to produce
these, albeit slowly at first, in a consistent quality to provide anyone
with these wood parts when needed.

I am not much of an internet marketer other than selling a few things on
eBay from time to time so I am seeking the advice of the list as to the best
venue to make these available. Also I am not real sure what the best price
is to sell them for, there is a lot of time involved and I know that trying
to selling at our normal billing rate is out of the question but I was
thinking of the following price schedule and welcome everyone's comments on
the subject.
Door Rails=$35ea
Blocks=$20pr
Full Set(left & right rails and four(4) blocks)=$100 for the six pieces
(From my experience with Gary it looks like shipping is running $8-12.)

I have pictures available of the finished products if anyone is interested
just let me know and I can send them to you off-line. I am also in process
of putting together a DIY PowerPoint if anyone wants to try to build their
own.

Thanks in Advance for your helpful hints and suggestions, this list has been
invaluable to me during my last few years of restoration.

All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Fri Nov 19 15:30:49 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 17:30:49 EST
Subject: [TR] TR4A Boot Hinges
Message-ID: <8d581.dbfe10f.3a185499@aol.com>

The boot hinges should be marked "L" and "R" in the casting underneath.   
Don't mix them up.
George

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 19 17:41:25 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 16:41:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] shameless self-promotion (door wood)
Message-ID: <668637.3351.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

List,
I wasn't sure what to do with the old wood inside my doors (tr-3).  They were 
riddled with old screw holes from prior owners who had apparently tried to keep 
side curtain brackets in place.  Plus there were several broken off screws 
lodged that had to be removed resulting in even bigger holes.  I simply plugged 
the holes with the best wood putty I could find but still wasn't happy with that 
result.  


I sent mine to Bill which he used as a pattern and the result was flawless.  The 
wood fit the curve perfectly front to back as well as the concave top edge which 
slid right in under the steel inside edge of the door top.  I was very very 
happy with the result and look forward to having clean fresh wood to screw 
into.  The suggested price is very reasonable for a part that isn't available 
anywhere else that I know of.  


If anyone out there is doing a frame up, or having trouble with they're side 
screen brackets holding, consider getting totally new wood.  It's worth it!

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 19 18:37:17 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 17:37:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] shameless self-promotion (door wood)
In-Reply-To: <668637.3351.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <668637.3351.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <056901cb8853$7a6518a0$6f2f49e0$@rr.com>

> I simply
> plugged
> the holes with the best wood putty I could find

A better approach is to drill out the holes, and then glue in hardwood
dowels.  If you use good quality dowels and glue, the fix will be stronger
than the original wood.  You'll also need to drill pilot holes for the new
screws, once you find the right location for them.

There may be a wood putty out there that would work for this kind of repair,
but I've never found one.  The dowels work first time, every time.

-- Randall 

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Fri Nov 19 18:52:58 2010
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 19:52:58 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] shameless self-promotion (door wood)
Message-ID: <13251371.633649.1290217978659.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>

/C5yXjn: Permission denied

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Nov 19 19:06:56 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 19:06:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Shameless Self-Promotion TR2-3A
In-Reply-To: <CA9F650A083C4565824F3B552628D66C@bboffice>
References: <CA9F650A083C4565824F3B552628D66C@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4CE72D40.5000403@bradakis.com>

I'll suggest you post some pics in the Triumph forum at
http://www.team.net/forums for those who wish to see
the items.

And I'll also suggest you check out the Monster List,
something Phil E.  started a while back and Chris
Kantarjiev has kept going:

http://www.dimebank.com/monster

An entry there may be helpful.


mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Nov 19 19:37:07 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 19:37:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] shameless self-promotion (door wood)
In-Reply-To: <13251371.633649.1290217978659.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>
References: <13251371.633649.1290217978659.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>
Message-ID: <4CE73453.107@bradakis.com>

frede.thomas2 wrote:
> /C5yXjn: Permission denied
>    

Progress, of sorts, it isn't /completely/ blank.
Try again, Fred.

mjb.



From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Nov 19 20:02:14 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 21:02:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] old grommets
In-Reply-To: <4CE73453.107@bradakis.com>
References: <13251371.633649.1290217978659.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>
	<4CE73453.107@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <651B9D43E660423F94D53D2F361DCB65@ranteer.local>

?I'm probably out of luck here, but I thought I'd ask.

I have two odd shaped grommets that fit in odd shaped holes (not in a 
triumph), and both are pretty hard.

fortunately, they are both out.  but quite hard.  is there a product I can 
soak them in and get just a little flexibility?

thanks! 


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 19 20:59:16 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 19:59:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] old grommets
In-Reply-To: <651B9D43E660423F94D53D2F361DCB65@ranteer.local>
References: <13251371.633649.1290217978659.JavaMail.root@vznit170128><4CE73453.107@bradakis.com>
	<651B9D43E660423F94D53D2F361DCB65@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <021c01cb8867$4d41fb90$0301a8c0@randall>

> is there a 
> product I can 
> soak them in and get just a little flexibility?

Might help if we knew what they were made of.  Assuming it's some sort of
synthetic rubber, I'd try silicone spray.

-- Randall  


From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Nov 20 06:16:03 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2010 8:16:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] old grommets
In-Reply-To: <651B9D43E660423F94D53D2F361DCB65@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <20101120131603.KBOYO.27811.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>

Dave, you might try a light oil such as 3 in 1 and let them soak for a few days. Rubber compounds have a lot of oil in them and over time it dries out. There are also waxes in the compounds that would soften them as well. You might try a liquid wax if the oil does not work. I suspect they are either Natural Rubber or EPDM, either way a soak in oil may help them soften up some.
Neither of these compounds are resistant to gasoline and will swell if soaked in Gasoline. Likewise they are not resistant to oil but in this case they need the oils replenished. You may find they will swell slightly too but once out of the oil and wiped dry they should return to close to their original size with some flex ability.

JVV

---- dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote: 
> ?I'm probably out of luck here, but I thought I'd ask.
> 
> I have two odd shaped grommets that fit in odd shaped holes (not in a 
> triumph), and both are pretty hard.
> 
> fortunately, they are both out.  but quite hard.  is there a product I can 
> soak them in and get just a little flexibility?
> 
> thanks! 
>

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Nov 20 14:02:57 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2010 21:02:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] General Conversation
In-Reply-To: <20101120131603.KBOYO.27811.root@cdptpa-web17-z01>
Message-ID: <618139732.1591383.1290286977373.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

A.  I put the head back in the TR3, buttoned everything up, and started it.  Wanted to run it up to operating temperature.  Hooboy.  Smoked like crazy, just like before I blew the head gasket.  Still and all, I retorqued the head.  Checked the archives about how cold it could get, found varied opinion.  Like Randall said, it depends on the metal, the ambient temperature, and a host of other variables.  I went ahead and retorqued it at probably between 100 and 120 degrees.  Will let you know if it's a problem.  Then, I readjusted the valves.  ...Uhm, this time I didn't do the four valves open at TDC at the same time, but as I should have the first time, making sure each mating valve was completely open before gapping the adjacent one.  No smoke, but a ton of relief.

B.  Old topic, but one we should probably keep current on.  Went battery shopping for my John Deere 210C diesel loader because it's close to snow removal time.  Autozone had Optima red tops for $159, but the date was stickered at 2/10 and the actual coded dates seemed even earlier, though it's hard to decipher these battery to battery.  A battery 10 months old already before I carry it out the door didn't seem like a good idea.  Also checked internet comments on a variety of batteries.  Everlast seemed okay.  Napa too.  Couldn't find anything newer than 7 months old in Napa, and no Everlast anywhere locally, not Robbins, Walmart, Autozone, VIP.  Went with a Sears Diehard Gold 65 series.  General comments were positive on the internet.  Need lots of cold cranking power for the diesel in the dead of winter here, despite an engine heater.  Any new battery developments in the past six months or so since I've seen it on the List?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire



From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sat Nov 20 14:12:35 2010
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2010 21:12:35 -0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Rocker Panels Needed
In-Reply-To: <8d423.5232791f.3a185434@aol.com>
References: <8d423.5232791f.3a185434@aol.com>
Message-ID: <69915B9C805A4B6A86AB8820065D5A2D@AdrianPC>

I have a right hand sill/rocker panel spare which came with my car when I 
bought it.
It is NOS supplied by Moss Europe but not Stanpart.
I am in UK which may be on the down side.
Any sensible offer would suffice, it is surplus to requirements.

Adrian
TR4A CT64306 O
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 19, 2010 10:29 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 Rocker Panels Needed


> My salesperson at Moss Motors has informed me that rocker panels for TR4's
> (TR6 is the same) are no longer available and the same is true for the 
> other
> major Triumph suppliers.   It it possible that someone here on the list 
> has
> a set of outers to spare?   I might be able to borrow a set from a friend
> locally but don't want to jeopardize his project, which should begin in
> March.   My TR4A project will soon grind to a halt with a slip in delivery 
> date
> if I can't locate panels in the next coupla weeks.   Can anyone help?
> Thanks!
> George Haynes
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
> 


From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sat Nov 20 14:25:46 2010
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2010 15:25:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Swelling rubber to revive grommets?
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=a7bgMWXfkfhO_SvpROr9WcunKmHXdfGD6EfzF@mail.gmail.com>

I'd suggest soaking the grommet a replacement fluid used in some
engine or transmission with rubber seals.  Most of the power steering
fluid/ATF fluids, etc., have a certain level of solvent formulated
into them to swell the seals slightly in the thing they're added to.
This is done to keep the seals soft and to prevent them leaking.

You might try some fluid specifically noted as stopping leaks to
ensure a particularly robust level of swelling agent in the
formulation.

I'd probably not use silicone.  It's fairly inert to rubber, and it
will eventually coat anything remotely close to it with a film that
will resist adhesion.  I try not to use silicones for anything on a
car.

Don
TR3B TSF202L

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Sat Nov 20 15:02:39 2010
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2010 14:02:39 -0800
Subject: [TR] New Chrome Protection?
Message-ID: <1E29837745564BEA9173922CCFE9F585@paulal73q2sjay>

I'm about to get my car back from the paint shop and will be putting lots of new reproduction chrome on it.  What is the best way to protect the chrome from rust.  I leave near the beach and the moist salt air really takes it's toll on the lesser quality repro stuff.  Lately, I've just been waxing the chrome with the same car wax I use on the paint.

paulw

From don at napanet.net  Sat Nov 20 16:03:42 2010
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2010 15:03:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] "Ran When Parked"
Message-ID: <20101120230348.2E8F6AE66E@mail.dsl.napanet.net>



Ran When Parked: Advice and Adventures from the Affordable Underbelly 
of Car Collecting - by Rob Sass [Paperback]

The title of the book made me laugh, and piqued my interest enough to 
take a look inside the book.  Too many times I've seen that term used 
to describe a car for sale.

I just finished reading the book, and I must say that it is is a 
great book on buying and owning old cars that are are not, and 
probably never will be considered exotics.  The author writes for 
Sports Car Market magazine, and his journalism skills are 
fantastic.  A lot of the book is about cars he has found and 
purchased, and what he encountered in the process.  He has a knack 
for finding nice unmolested original cars at reasonable prices, then 
fixing them up a bit, enjoying them for a period of time, then 
selling for a profit.  He doesn't get rich off this, but it is 
apparent he loves the chase as much as the conquest.

Cars that are discussed in the book include everything from Alfa 
Romeos to Volvos.  However, British cars get proportionally more 
pages than cars from other places.  He has sections of the book 
devoted to MG Midget, MGB, Spitfire, Jensen Healy, TVR, Daimler 
SP-250, TR4, MGB, Sunbeam Alpine, TR6, Jaguar XJ6, and Jag XKE.


http://www.amazon.com/Ran-When-Parked-Adventures-Affordable/dp/0981727042




Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1966 TR4A
1962 MGA Mk 2
1973 MGB GT (selling)
1963-7 MGB (seeking)
Misc. Japanese cars



From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Nov 21 07:20:00 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 09:20:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] greetings
Message-ID: <1044fa.c14a5eb.3a1a8490@aol.com>

list, i have been apart from the hobby due to other family obligations, but 
 i do want to take the time out to wish u all a Happy Thanksgiving.  larry  
schwartz

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Nov 21 08:26:26 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 10:26:26 EST
Subject: [TR] greetings
Message-ID: <446a7.51874d3f.3a1a9422@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/21/2010 8:33:47 AM Central Standard Time, 
L1J1S at aol.com writes: 
> list, i have been apart from the hobby due to other family obligations, 
> but 
> i do want to take the time out to wish u all a Happy Thanksgiving.  larry  
> 
> 

Welcome back, Larry.  I hope all is well with the family.

Dave

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Nov 21 10:07:07 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 09:07:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
Message-ID: <178318.3546.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

? ???On the left side of my TR3A the upper fulcrum is held in by four bolts. The inner bolts have nyloc nuts and the outer bolts go through a caged or captive nut on the frame somehow. I haven't actually had the spring out and looked.
? ???On the right side the bolt arrangement is the same except the outer bolts only thread in about 3 threads and then bottom out. The threads are feeling a little "soft" as well. The DPO had put bolts in with 3 and 4 lock washers. This has been bugging me so I pulled the shock and spring so I could look underneath. Sure enough, the bolts don't go through. What gives? What is there supposed to be? Can someone take a look at a frame and tell me?
? ???My car took a hard hit to the front right corner long ago with the DPO.
     I've been tearing around in the car for about 18 years and it has stayed on this long with all of the reckless driving I've done before I knew. Maybe I should just put the bolts in and forget about it. 
     I've done this post before, but that was before I had it all apart to see what I have.
     This is my daily driver/work car so I need to get it back on the road by Monday the 29th.
? ???Any ideas?

? ???-Bill in Tehachapi


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Nov 21 11:42:06 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 13:42:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
In-Reply-To: <178318.3546.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <178318.3546.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201011211342.07467.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, November 21, 2010 12:07:07 pm William Brewer wrote:
>      On the left side of my TR3A the upper fulcrum is held in by four
> bolts. The inner bolts have nyloc nuts and the outer bolts go through a
> caged or captive nut on the frame somehow. I haven't actually had the
> spring out and looked. On the right side the bolt arrangement is the same
> except the outer bolts only thread in about 3 threads and then bottom out.
> The threads are feeling a little "soft" as well. The DPO had put bolts in
> with 3 and 4 lock washers. This has been bugging me so I pulled the shock
> and spring so I could look underneath. Sure enough, the bolts don't go
> through. What gives? What is there supposed to be? Can someone take a look
> at a frame and tell me? My car took a hard hit to the front right corner
> long ago with the DPO. I've been tearing around in the car for about 18
> years and it has stayed on this long with all of the reckless driving I've
> done before I knew. Maybe I should just put the bolts in and forget about
> it. I've done this post before, but that was before I had it all apart to
> see what I have. This is my daily driver/work car so I need to get it back
> on the road by Monday the 29th. Any ideas?
> 
>      -Bill in Tehachapi
> 
Bill,

I don't have easy access to that area at this time but from memory, the inside 
bolts are 3/8" 24 and should be about 1.5" or so in length with about 1" of 
thread. They are fitted with a single lock washer.

The nuts under the shock tower are just regular 3/8" nuts welded underneath. 
They are not the captive nuts.

Since the fulcrum is about 1/2 ", I am guessing you should see about 1/4 to 
1/2 inch of bolt protruding the nut but I have never looked.

If the bolts wont get tight with a single washer, try re-tapping the nut but 
make sure you work slow with a lot of cutting oil.

Bob


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Nov 21 12:48:34 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 13:48:34 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
Message-ID: <11681740.718796.1290368914573.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

Bill - Both sides of mine are as you describe the left side.  Do they actually bottom out on something or just stop 'threading'?  Are the cage nuts in place?  


Nov 21, 2010 05:18:00 PM, wsb1960tr3a at att.net wrote:

     On the left side of my TR3A the upper fulcrum is held in by four bolts. The inner bolts have nyloc nuts and the outer bolts go through a caged or captive nut on the frame somehow. I haven't actually had the spring out and looked.
     On the right side the bolt arrangement is the same except the outer bolts only thread in about 3 threads and then bottom out. The threads are feeling a little "soft" as well. The DPO had put bolts in with 3 and 4 lock washers. This has been bugging me so I pulled the shock and spring so I could look underneath. Sure enough, the bolts don't go through. What gives? What is there supposed to be? Can someone take a look at a frame and tell me?
     My car took a hard hit to the front right corner long ago with the DPO.
I've been tearing around in the car for about 18 years and it has stayed on this long with all of the reckless driving I've done before I knew. Maybe I should just put the bolts in and forget about it. 
I've done this post before, but that was before I had it all apart to see what I have.
This is my daily driver/work car so I need to get it back on the road by Monday the 29th.
     Any ideas?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Nov 21 13:03:45 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 12:03:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
In-Reply-To: <201011211342.07467.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <178318.3546.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<201011211342.07467.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <a06240804c90f2b5aafc5@[192.168.2.2]>

I think all the bolt dimensions and torque values are listed in the 
front of the Service Manual ...


>
>
>I don't have easy access to that area at this time but from memory, the inside
>bolts are 3/8" 24 and should be about 1.5" or so in length with about 1" of
>thread. They are fitted with a single lock washer.
>
>The nuts under the shock tower are just regular 3/8" nuts welded underneath.
>They are not the captive nuts.
>
>Since the fulcrum is about 1/2 ", I am guessing you should see about 1/4 to
>1/2 inch of bolt protruding the nut but I have never looked.
>
>If the bolts wont get tight with a single washer, try re-tapping the nut but
>make sure you work slow with a lot of cutting oil.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Sun Nov 21 13:08:31 2010
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 15:08:31 EST
Subject: [TR] nice day
Message-ID: <4ea0.64cfe2c4.3a1ad63f@aol.com>

Wow! Just got back from a 90 minute drive in the TR6. 62 degrees and  
sunshine the Sunday before Thanksgiving in NE Ohio. Who'd believe it!
 
Eric
71 TR6

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Nov 21 14:11:30 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 15:11:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?nice_day?=
Message-ID: <20101121211051.527AF18788A@autox.team.net>

Thank Algore!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com
Date: Sun, Nov 21, 2010 14:08
Subject: [TR] nice day
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>

Wow! Just got back from a 90 minute drive in the TR6. 62 degrees and  
sunshine the Sunday before Thanksgiving in NE Ohio. Who'd believe it!
 
Eric
71 TR6
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net


From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Nov 21 14:15:41 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 13:15:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
In-Reply-To: <11681740.718796.1290368914573.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <399398.56461.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Caged nuts are in place. It looks like the aft one may be stripping or is stripped. The bolt doesn't go in squarely. The threads are stripped as well. I am going to try a new bolt going in squarely and hope for the best. 
     -Bill in Tehachapi

--- On Sun, 11/21/10, cfmtr3a at verizon.net <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
> To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, November 21, 2010, 11:48 AM
> Bill - Both sides of mine are as you
> describe the left side.? Do they actually bottom out on
> something or just stop 'threading'?? Are the cage nuts
> in place?? 
> 
> 
> Nov 21, 2010 05:18:00 PM, wsb1960tr3a at att.net
> wrote:
> 
> ? ???On the left side of my TR3A the
> upper fulcrum is held in by four bolts. The inner bolts have
> nyloc nuts and the outer bolts go through a caged or captive
> nut on the frame somehow. I haven't actually had the spring
> out and looked.
> ? ???On the right side the bolt
> arrangement is the same except the outer bolts only thread
> in about 3 threads and then bottom out. The threads are
> feeling a little "soft" as well. The DPO had put bolts in
> with 3 and 4 lock washers. This has been bugging me so I
> pulled the shock and spring so I could look underneath. Sure
> enough, the bolts don't go through. What gives? What is
> there supposed to be? Can someone take a look at a frame and
> tell me?
> ? ???My car took a hard hit to the
> front right corner long ago with the DPO.
> I've been tearing around in the car for about 18 years and
> it has stayed on this long with all of the reckless driving
> I've done before I knew. Maybe I should just put the bolts
> in and forget about it. 
> I've done this post before, but that was before I had it
> all apart to see what I have.
> This is my daily driver/work car so I need to get it back
> on the road by Monday the 29th.
> ? ???Any ideas?
> 
> ? ???-Bill in Tehachapi
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net
> 
> 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Nov 21 14:28:39 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 14:28:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] nice day
In-Reply-To: <4ea0.64cfe2c4.3a1ad63f@aol.com>
References: <4ea0.64cfe2c4.3a1ad63f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4CE98F07.5060705@gmail.com>

On 11/21/10 1:08 PM, ElangTR4 at aol.com wrote:
> Wow! Just got back from a 90 minute drive in the TR6. 62 degrees and
> sunshine the Sunday before Thanksgiving in NE Ohio. Who'd believe it!

High so far 39 degrees and first light snow of the season in Flagstaff.

Yesterday low sixties & dry when the TR3 went out for a spin.

Teriann

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Nov 21 14:33:36 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 14:33:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] nice day
In-Reply-To: <4ea0.64cfe2c4.3a1ad63f@aol.com>
References: <4ea0.64cfe2c4.3a1ad63f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B51E4BF4F75C4E7CB536BB05B3157040@bboffice>

Wow, just got back inside from a 40 minute ride on the Kubota plowing 8" of
snow off the drive.  It is still coming down hard so I'll probably get to do
it again tomorrow morning.

Car is at the shop, first stop for the winter, getting rear trans and front
diff seals replaced.  I hope the weather clears enough to trailer it home on
Wednesday.

"Drive 'em if you got 'em! "  and a Happy Thanksgiving to all!!

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ElangTR4 at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 1:09 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] nice day

Wow! Just got back from a 90 minute drive in the TR6. 62 degrees and
sunshine the Sunday before Thanksgiving in NE Ohio. Who'd believe it!
 
Eric
71 TR6
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net  Sun Nov 21 15:33:52 2010
From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 17:33:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] General Conversation
Message-ID: <003d01cb89cc$2cb69cd0$8623d670$@net>

I've just been through this on the 1500 Midget.

After renewing the head gasket due to a coolant leak, you have to run the
engine long enough to get rid of the existing coolant in the exhaust system.

That is, you may be worried that the second gasket failed because there is
still steam coming out of the exhaust.  However, this may be coolant still
there after the initial failure.

 

Cheers

 


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Nov 21 15:45:32 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 17:45:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] nice day
In-Reply-To: <B51E4BF4F75C4E7CB536BB05B3157040@bboffice>
References: <4ea0.64cfe2c4.3a1ad63f@aol.com>
	<B51E4BF4F75C4E7CB536BB05B3157040@bboffice>
Message-ID: <201011211745.32955.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

No show on the ground yet here in Central NY but we have had some cold 
weather.  High of 38 today. We have had some north and south of here but it 
was clear today.

But just got off the phone with daughter #2 who lives in South Lake Tahoe. 3 
feet on the ground so far and it is still falling!

I am guessing the ski and snow board crowd are loving it!

Bob


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Nov 21 16:23:00 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 16:23:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] nice day
In-Reply-To: <201011211745.32955.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <4ea0.64cfe2c4.3a1ad63f@aol.com>
	<B51E4BF4F75C4E7CB536BB05B3157040@bboffice>
	<201011211745.32955.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimspkOoj0uYCh_hieJDh5utmgFRbZnku6K8ed45@mail.gmail.com>

Here in Tucson it's been... oh never mind, you don't really want to know.

If any listers do find an excuse to get to the Tucson area this winter
please let me know and we'll try to hook you up with some Brit Car
activity.  This time of year there is something every week and often a
couple of somethings planned.

Geo

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sun Nov 21 16:27:38 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 17:27:38 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Positive thought for winter project
Message-ID: <18068051.728366.1290382058448.JavaMail.root@vznit170146>

List,

I have gas fumes leaking from the fuel sending unit on my 1972 Triumph TR6.  The gas tank is in great shape internally, still see silver down there after all these years.

As a temporay fix (so I don't blow up) I have used some gasket sealer around where the fuel sending unit sits on the tank.  After replacing every other part last winter, for some reason I did not figure it out until this year.

My question to the list, if you have one of those fancy screw drivers that is flexible, is it possible to remove the 6 screws and 6 fiber washers, lift the fuel sending unit, replace the cork gasket (adding a little gasket sealer) and replace everything WITHOUT removing the whole tank?

You know what the book says, I am just wondering if it can be done.

Thanks,

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Nov 21 16:33:27 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 16:33:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] General Conversation
In-Reply-To: <003d01cb89cc$2cb69cd0$8623d670$@net>
References: <003d01cb89cc$2cb69cd0$8623d670$@net>
Message-ID: <1723A5CD7FC94896AFA3B8ADD58E3970@Vista>

Not generally known, but the Triumph factory recommended that for Spitfires
at least, the head be retorqued immediately after running it up to operating
temperature while the engine is still hot.

Joe



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Adrian Jones
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 3:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] General Conversation

I've just been through this on the 1500 Midget.

After renewing the head gasket due to a coolant leak, you have to run the
engine long enough to get rid of the existing coolant in the exhaust system.

That is, you may be worried that the second gasket failed because there is
still steam coming out of the exhaust.  However, this may be coolant still
there after the initial failure.

 

Cheers

 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net


From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net  Sun Nov 21 17:19:03 2010
From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 19:19:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] General Conversation
In-Reply-To: <1723A5CD7FC94896AFA3B8ADD58E3970@Vista>
References: <003d01cb89cc$2cb69cd0$8623d670$@net>
	<1723A5CD7FC94896AFA3B8ADD58E3970@Vista>
Message-ID: <004f01cb89da$dea5e140$9bf1a3c0$@net>

Joe,

Many thanks on that tidbit!

A couple of months ago, I had a pleasant phone conversation with the Moss
Motors USA rep and that was what he recommended (re-torque when hot).

Does this make you think that the factory had problems regarding the head
gasket?  I seem to remember someone saying that the head gasket was a
problem area for the 1500.

I'm somewhat reluctant to go back and re-torque because a couple of months
ago I was attempting to replace the head gasket in a friend of a friend's
1500 MG and I managed to strip out some of the studs from the block(!).
What is the consensus of opinion on re-torquing with regards to this 1500
Triumph engine?  

Is it a necessity or is it just re-checking?  If necessity, hot or cold?

By the way, I torqued down on bone-dry nuts and studs, ie no lubrication at
all.

Cheers!

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] 
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:33 PM
To: 'Adrian Jones'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] General Conversation

Not generally known, but the Triumph factory recommended that for Spitfires
at least, the head be retorqued immediately after running it up to operating
temperature while the engine is still hot.

Joe



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Adrian Jones
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 3:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] General Conversation

I've just been through this on the 1500 Midget.

After renewing the head gasket due to a coolant leak, you have to run the
engine long enough to get rid of the existing coolant in the exhaust system.

That is, you may be worried that the second gasket failed because there is
still steam coming out of the exhaust.  However, this may be coolant still
there after the initial failure.

 

Cheers

 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net


From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Nov 21 17:24:46 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 17:24:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] General Conversation
In-Reply-To: <004f01cb89da$dea5e140$9bf1a3c0$@net>
References: <003d01cb89cc$2cb69cd0$8623d670$@net>
	<1723A5CD7FC94896AFA3B8ADD58E3970@Vista>
	<004f01cb89da$dea5e140$9bf1a3c0$@net>
Message-ID: <45F189BEC52744CD9C0B57198EC50AEC@Vista>

All I can say about the subject is that I came across it when I opened a NOS
head gasket package and a little slip of paper fell out with that
recommendation.  So I would expect that there must have been issues.

Since then, I have been doing that religiously every time I have taken the
head off any Spitfire engine.  I was at first surprised at the amount of
turning I had to do to get the proper torque after the engine warmed up.

It makes me wonder how any engine that was not done in that fashion could
avoid having problems with leaking head gaskets.

Cheers,
Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: Adrian Jones [mailto:adrianjones747 at earthlink.net] 
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 5:19 PM
To: 'Joe Curry'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] General Conversation

Joe,

Many thanks on that tidbit!

A couple of months ago, I had a pleasant phone conversation with the Moss
Motors USA rep and that was what he recommended (re-torque when hot).

Does this make you think that the factory had problems regarding the head
gasket?  I seem to remember someone saying that the head gasket was a
problem area for the 1500.

I'm somewhat reluctant to go back and re-torque because a couple of months
ago I was attempting to replace the head gasket in a friend of a friend's
1500 MG and I managed to strip out some of the studs from the block(!).
What is the consensus of opinion on re-torquing with regards to this 1500
Triumph engine?  

Is it a necessity or is it just re-checking?  If necessity, hot or cold?

By the way, I torqued down on bone-dry nuts and studs, ie no lubrication at
all.

Cheers!

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] 
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:33 PM
To: 'Adrian Jones'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] General Conversation

Not generally known, but the Triumph factory recommended that for Spitfires
at least, the head be retorqued immediately after running it up to operating
temperature while the engine is still hot.

Joe
@autox.team.net


From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sun Nov 21 17:34:37 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (Aaron)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 19:34:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Positive thought for winter project
In-Reply-To: <18068051.728366.1290382058448.JavaMail.root@vznit170146>
References: <18068051.728366.1290382058448.JavaMail.root@vznit170146>
Message-ID: <6FE6A772-5F09-4BF0-B235-DFFF8E86C569@aol.com>

Yes. I have done it before by loosening the mounting bolts and tilting  the gas tank forward. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 21, 2010, at 6:27 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:

> List,
> 
> I have gas fumes leaking from the fuel sending unit on my 1972 Triumph TR6.  The gas tank is in great shape internally, still see silver down there after all these years.
> 
> As a temporay fix (so I don't blow up) I have used some gasket sealer around where the fuel sending unit sits on the tank.  After replacing every other part last winter, for some reason I did not figure it out until this year.
> 
> My question to the list, if you have one of those fancy screw drivers that is flexible, is it possible to remove the 6 screws and 6 fiber washers, lift the fuel sending unit, replace the cork gasket (adding a little gasket sealer) and replace everything WITHOUT removing the whole tank?
> 
> You know what the book says, I am just wondering if it can be done.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Craig
> 1972 Triumph TR6
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com
> 

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Sun Nov 21 18:10:58 2010
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 18:10:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] General Conversation
In-Reply-To: <45F189BEC52744CD9C0B57198EC50AEC@Vista>
References: <003d01cb89cc$2cb69cd0$8623d670$@net><1723A5CD7FC94896AFA3B8ADD58E3970@Vista><004f01cb89da$dea5e140$9bf1a3c0$@net>
	<45F189BEC52744CD9C0B57198EC50AEC@Vista>
Message-ID: <6AC820D555D64CAAB9D4C9A5481932D9@bboffice>

On a similar note: My winter list includes replacing the studs(probably
original) in the TR3 with a new set of ARP studs.  My engine guy said to
re-torque after 200 miles with the engine warm, not hot.

Does seem like sound advice for the TR3?  I really have no experience in
this area not being an engine re-builder. 

TIA,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 5:25 PM
To: 'Adrian Jones'
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] General Conversation

All I can say about the subject is that I came across it when I opened a NOS
head gasket package and a little slip of paper fell out with that
recommendation.  So I would expect that there must have been issues.

Since then, I have been doing that religiously every time I have taken the
head off any Spitfire engine.  I was at first surprised at the amount of
turning I had to do to get the proper torque after the engine warmed up.

It makes me wonder how any engine that was not done in that fashion could
avoid having problems with leaking head gaskets.

Cheers,
Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: Adrian Jones [mailto:adrianjones747 at earthlink.net]
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 5:19 PM
To: 'Joe Curry'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] General Conversation

Joe,

Many thanks on that tidbit!

A couple of months ago, I had a pleasant phone conversation with the Moss
Motors USA rep and that was what he recommended (re-torque when hot).

Does this make you think that the factory had problems regarding the head
gasket?  I seem to remember someone saying that the head gasket was a
problem area for the 1500.

I'm somewhat reluctant to go back and re-torque because a couple of months
ago I was attempting to replace the head gasket in a friend of a friend's
1500 MG and I managed to strip out some of the studs from the block(!).
What is the consensus of opinion on re-torquing with regards to this 1500
Triumph engine?  

Is it a necessity or is it just re-checking?  If necessity, hot or cold?

By the way, I torqued down on bone-dry nuts and studs, ie no lubrication at
all.

Cheers!

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:33 PM
To: 'Adrian Jones'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] General Conversation

Not generally known, but the Triumph factory recommended that for Spitfires
at least, the head be retorqued immediately after running it up to operating
temperature while the engine is still hot.

Joe
@autox.team.net

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Nov 21 18:52:41 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 19:52:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] General Conversation
In-Reply-To: <6AC820D555D64CAAB9D4C9A5481932D9@bboffice>
References: <003d01cb89cc$2cb69cd0$8623d670$@net>
	<1723A5CD7FC94896AFA3B8ADD58E3970@Vista>
	<004f01cb89da$dea5e140$9bf1a3c0$@net>
	<45F189BEC52744CD9C0B57198EC50AEC@Vista>
	<6AC820D555D64CAAB9D4C9A5481932D9@bboffice>
Message-ID: <20101122015223.3D02D187974@autox.team.net>

Absolutely, you want to retorque with the engine either warm or 
hot.  You'll probably be surprised at how much movement you get.

Tony Drews

At 07:10 PM 11/21/2010, bill_beecher at flash.net wrote:
>On a similar note: My winter list includes replacing the studs(probably
>original) in the TR3 with a new set of ARP studs.  My engine guy said to
>re-torque after 200 miles with the engine warm, not hot.
>
>Does seem like sound advice for the TR3?  I really have no experience in
>this area not being an engine re-builder.
>
>TIA,
>Bill
>
>Bill Beecher
>'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
>www.triumphowners.com/1566
>"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
>course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
>[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
>Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 5:25 PM
>To: 'Adrian Jones'
>Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [TR] General Conversation
>
>All I can say about the subject is that I came across it when I opened a NOS
>head gasket package and a little slip of paper fell out with that
>recommendation.  So I would expect that there must have been issues.
>
>Since then, I have been doing that religiously every time I have taken the
>head off any Spitfire engine.  I was at first surprised at the amount of
>turning I had to do to get the proper torque after the engine warmed up.
>
>It makes me wonder how any engine that was not done in that fashion could
>avoid having problems with leaking head gaskets.
>
>Cheers,
>Joe
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Adrian Jones [mailto:adrianjones747 at earthlink.net]
>Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 5:19 PM
>To: 'Joe Curry'; triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: [TR] General Conversation
>
>Joe,
>
>Many thanks on that tidbit!
>
>A couple of months ago, I had a pleasant phone conversation with the Moss
>Motors USA rep and that was what he recommended (re-torque when hot).
>
>Does this make you think that the factory had problems regarding the head
>gasket?  I seem to remember someone saying that the head gasket was a
>problem area for the 1500.
>
>I'm somewhat reluctant to go back and re-torque because a couple of months
>ago I was attempting to replace the head gasket in a friend of a friend's
>1500 MG and I managed to strip out some of the studs from the block(!).
>What is the consensus of opinion on re-torquing with regards to this 1500
>Triumph engine?
>
>Is it a necessity or is it just re-checking?  If necessity, hot or cold?
>
>By the way, I torqued down on bone-dry nuts and studs, ie no lubrication at
>all.
>
>Cheers!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net]
>Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:33 PM
>To: 'Adrian Jones'; triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: [TR] General Conversation
>
>Not generally known, but the Triumph factory recommended that for Spitfires
>at least, the head be retorqued immediately after running it up to operating
>temperature while the engine is still hot.
>
>Joe
>@autox.team.net
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Manage your account:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Manage your account: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com



From dkspence at telus.net  Sun Nov 21 23:00:30 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2010 23:00:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rings and bearings TR4A. Brand and supplier recommendations?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1290366010.18280.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1290366010.18280.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6D35272B-30C4-4AE2-8923-00F33C767BBF@telus.net>

I am finally getting back to my TR4A ,known locally as "The Invisible  
Car", which has been sitting dormant for 22 years.  (The kids have  
grown up and left home)

I've done the head (last year) but feel I should replace the bearings  
and rings before reinstalling it so am looking for recommendations re  
brand names and suppliers. Anyone want to chime in?

The engine currently has the "Big Bore" kit installed with about  
17,000 miles on it but it has been sitting for over 20 years.

TIA
Don

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Mon Nov 22 05:29:17 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 07:29:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] crazy thought
Message-ID: <AANLkTinO7j3ew2rb4_whgGtvcXA6pj0369muFWWdr1zm@mail.gmail.com>

With the holidays coming,  I'm somehow lucky enough that friends and family
ask me what I want as presents.    Of couse, car parts immeadiately come to
mind.

That got me thinking,   wish the big 3 or 4 had a holiday list -  like a
bridal registry where I could put the exact parts and send people - they
could buy the right parts and then that gasket set or oil pump rebuild kit
would come off the list so I don't get duplicates

That would be one way to ensure that a store gets most/all my business.

This weekend will be cleaning of the garage so I can actually get to the
triumph again to work on it.

All the best,

Chris

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Nov 22 06:19:12 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 13:19:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] General Conversation
In-Reply-To: <20101122015223.3D02D187974@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1328441350.1642427.1290431952351.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>


>...you want to retorque with the engine either warm or 
>hot.  You'll probably be surprised at how much movement you get.

I have always gone on the assumption that when re-torquing, it's best to crack the nut loose first, then torque, before moving on to the next nut in sequence.  I've worried that I might get a false reading from it otherwise if the nut is quasi-frozen and I didn't know it.  Probably overkill.

Terry Smith
New Hampshire

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Nov 22 06:29:07 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 08:29:07 EST
Subject: [TR] crazy thought
Message-ID: <b1f6d.4f4fdad5.3a1bca23@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/22/2010 6:32:53 AM Central Standard Time, 
ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: 
> That got me thinking,   wish the big 3 or 4 had a holiday list -  like a
> bridal registry where I could put the exact parts and send people - they
> could buy the right parts and then that gasket set or oil pump rebuild kit
> would come off the list so I don't get duplicates
> 

TRF does have a "Wish List" where you can put the items you want but not 
yet.  With some ingenuity you could use that.  Put the parts you want on the 
wish list and tell your prospective gift givers to go there and pick 
something.

Or...

When it comes to your kids you can just buy the parts you want, give them 
to your kids and tell them to wrap it up and put it under the tree.

No more ties!

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Nov 22 06:35:13 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 08:35:13 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
Message-ID: <b2461.102e5521.3a1bcb91@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/21/2010 3:35:58 PM Central Standard Time, 
wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: 
>      Caged nuts are in place. It looks like the aft one may be stripping 
> or is stripped. The bolt doesn't go in squarely. The threads are stripped 
> as well. I am going to try a new bolt going in squarely and hope for the 
> best. 
> 
Two thoughts come to mind: 
1) someone cross-threaded it.  If so you may need to clean up the threads 
with a tap.
2) There is something in there causing the bolt to bottom out.  It may be a 
broken off bolt or just an accumulation of debris.  As I recall these are 
weld nuts because they are blocked off my the spring perches which can 
capture stuff under there.  You may need a light and an inspection mirror to 
investigate.

Good luck.

Dave

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Nov 22 07:46:15 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 08:46:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] General Conversation
In-Reply-To: <1328441350.1642427.1290431952351.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.wes
	tchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20101122015223.3D02D187974@autox.team.net>
	<1328441350.1642427.1290431952351.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20101122144552.73F7118765A@autox.team.net>

That is the correct technique.

- Tony Drews

At 07:19 AM 11/22/2010, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

> >...you want to retorque with the engine either warm or
> >hot.  You'll probably be surprised at how much movement you get.
>
>I have always gone on the assumption that when re-torquing, it's 
>best to crack the nut loose first, then torque, before moving on to 
>the next nut in sequence.  I've worried that I might get a false 
>reading from it otherwise if the nut is quasi-frozen and I didn't 
>know it.  Probably overkill.
>
>Terry Smith
>New Hampshire



From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov 22 10:59:19 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 09:59:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] General Conversation
In-Reply-To: <1328441350.1642427.1290431952351.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20101122015223.3D02D187974@autox.team.net>
	<1328441350.1642427.1290431952351.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <045901cb8a6e$fcd16c90$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have always gone on the assumption that when re-torquing, 
> it's best to crack the nut loose first, then torque, before 
> moving on to the next nut in sequence.  I've worried that I 
> might get a false reading from it otherwise if the nut is 
> quasi-frozen and I didn't know it.  Probably overkill.

On the contrary, that's the right way to do it.  But you can still note how
far it turned.  I usually just check the markings on the socket, but you
could make a chalk mark (or similar) on the nut beforehand.

BTW, the factory was quite specific about checking Stag head bolts/nuts with
the engine cold.  Since the Stag has aluminum heads (but steel bolts/studs)
that makes sense to me.  Aluminum expands faster with heat than steel does,
so the fasteners will get tighter as the engine warms up.

-- Randall  


From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Nov 22 12:27:20 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 11:27:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
Message-ID: <60433.10880.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Thanks Dave,
     It definitely looks like the threads are cross threaded. I need to find a bottoming tap to try to clean it up. I have considered drilling through the bottom and try running a regular tap all the way through to see if I can get some additional "fresh" threads.
     It doesn't look like anything is broken off inside.
     I've also considered trying to thread a stud in straight and then have a friend MIG it to the shock tower.
     Ignorance was bliss. I am a little sorry that I discovered this.

     -Bill in Tehachapi

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 08:35:13 EST
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <b2461.102e5521.3a1bcb91 at cs.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

In a message dated 11/21/2010 3:35:58 PM Central Standard Time,
wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes:
>      Caged nuts are in place. It looks like the aft one may be stripping
> or is stripped. The bolt doesn't go in squarely. The threads are stripped
> as well. I am going to try a new bolt going in squarely and hope for the
> best.
>
Two thoughts come to mind:
1) someone cross-threaded it.  If so you may need to clean up the threads
with a tap.
2) There is something in there causing the bolt to bottom out.  It may be a
broken off bolt or just an accumulation of debris.  As I recall these are
weld nuts because they are blocked off my the spring perches which can
capture stuff under there.  You may need a light and an inspection mirror to
investigate.

Good luck.

Dave


From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Nov 22 13:00:46 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 20:00:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Positive thought for winter project
In-Reply-To: <64522245.1432734.1290456004979.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <328084331.1432783.1290456046535.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Replaced the leaky old gasket on my TR4 with an inexpensive ribbed "rubber" seal from Victoria British. Without tilting the tank.  

Unplugged the wires.

Removed the screws with an offset screwdriver.  Took a long time.

Removed (CAREFULLY) hard old gasket in pieces.

Stretched rubber seal over the flange (not enough clearance to remove the sender).

Replaced the screws.  Took a long time again.

Replaced wires.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "Aaron" <acekraut11 at aol.com>
> To: thenicholls at verizon.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:34:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Positive thought for winter project
> 
> Yes. I have done it before by loosening the mounting bolts and tilting
>  the gas tank forward. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Nov 21, 2010, at 6:27 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:
> 
> > List,
> > 
> > I have gas fumes leaking from the fuel sending unit on my 1972
> Triumph TR6.  The gas tank is in great shape internally, still see
> silver down there after all these years.
> > 
> > As a temporay fix (so I don't blow up) I have used some gasket
> sealer around where the fuel sending unit sits on the tank.  After
> replacing every other part last winter, for some reason I did not
> figure it out until this year.
> > 
> > My question to the list, if you have one of those fancy screw
> drivers that is flexible, is it possible to remove the 6 screws and 6
> fiber washers, lift the fuel sending unit, replace the cork gasket
> (adding a little gasket sealer) and replace everything WITHOUT
> removing the whole tank?
> > 
> > You know what the book says, I am just wondering if it can be done.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Craig
> > 1972 Triumph TR6
> > _______________________________________________
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com
> > 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov 22 13:05:13 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 12:05:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
In-Reply-To: <60433.10880.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <60433.10880.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <080601cb8a80$9591fa10$c0b5ee30$@rr.com>

> I need to
> find a bottoming tap to try to clean it up.

I'm missing something here, Bill.  Those threaded holes are supposed to be
open at the bottom, so you shouldn't need a bottoming tap.

Sounds to me like you should go ahead and install a Helicoil, but that's
just my opinion.  I really hate having to worry that something will break
when I pitch the car into a high speed corner.

-- Randall 



From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Nov 22 13:32:47 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 20:32:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Hardened seats and cracked heads
Message-ID: <1935179396.1807111.1290457967645.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



List, 



A machine shop is telling me that they will no longer install hardened valve seats in cast iron heads because doing so substantially increases the chance of the head cracking. Supposedly (they say) this is even more risky with highly tuned street or race engines. Are they blowing smoke or is this true? Comments...... 



Ed Woods 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon Nov 22 13:54:53 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 14:54:53 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Positive thought for winter project
Message-ID: <1686297191.772944.1290459293486.JavaMail.root@vznit170076>

Phil,

I was planning on using an automatic screwdriver at a 90 to take the screws out.  I was planning on replacing the cork gasket and the 6 fibre gaskets for the screws from TRF.  What part number did you order from VB?  Did you replace the 6 screw gaskets?

Thanks,

Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6


Nov 22, 2010 03:00:47 PM, pethier at comcast.net wrote:

Replaced the leaky old gasket on my TR4 with an inexpensive ribbed "rubber" seal from Victoria British. Without tilting the tank. 

Unplugged the wires.

Removed the screws with an offset screwdriver. Took a long time.

Removed (CAREFULLY) hard old gasket in pieces.

Stretched rubber seal over the flange (not enough clearance to remove the sender).

Replaced the screws. Took a long time again.

Replaced wires.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "Aaron" 
> To: thenicholls at verizon.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:34:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Positive thought for winter project
> 
> Yes. I have done it before by loosening the mounting bolts and tilting
> the gas tank forward. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Nov 21, 2010, at 6:27 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:
> 
> > List,
> > 
> > I have gas fumes leaking from the fuel sending unit on my 1972
> Triumph TR6. The gas tank is in great shape internally, still see
> silver down there after all these years.
> > 
> > As a temporay fix (so I don't blow up) I have used some gasket
> sealer around where the fuel sending unit sits on the tank. After
> replacing every other part last winter, for some reason I did not
> figure it out until this year.
> > 
> > My question to the list, if you have one of those fancy screw
> drivers that is flexible, is it possible to remove the 6 screws and 6
> fiber washers, lift the fuel sending unit, replace the cork gasket
> (adding a little gasket sealer) and replace everything WITHOUT
> removing the whole tank?
> > 
> > You know what the book says, I am just wondering if it can be done.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Craig
> > 1972 Triumph TR6
> > _______________________________________________
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com
> > 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Nov 22 18:46:22 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 18:46:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] crazy thought
In-Reply-To: <b1f6d.4f4fdad5.3a1bca23@cs.com>
References: <b1f6d.4f4fdad5.3a1bca23@cs.com>
Message-ID: <940F8CE5E164470FA09A1F03AD47A1FD@bboffice>

I suggested to TRF  a year or two ago that they make the wish list emailable
where you had a simple button at the bottom that would say "Email my
wishlist to a friend".  They said they did not have the technology to do it,
I guess no one has figured it out as yet.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2010 6:29 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] crazy thought

In a message dated 11/22/2010 6:32:53 AM Central Standard Time,
ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: 
> That got me thinking,   wish the big 3 or 4 had a holiday list -  like a
> bridal registry where I could put the exact parts and send people - 
> they could buy the right parts and then that gasket set or oil pump 
> rebuild kit would come off the list so I don't get duplicates
> 

TRF does have a "Wish List" where you can put the items you want but not
yet.  With some ingenuity you could use that.  Put the parts you want on the
wish list and tell your prospective gift givers to go there and pick
something.

Or...

When it comes to your kids you can just buy the parts you want, give them to
your kids and tell them to wrap it up and put it under the tree.

No more ties!

Dave
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov 22 19:17:52 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 18:17:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] crazy thought
In-Reply-To: <940F8CE5E164470FA09A1F03AD47A1FD@bboffice>
References: <b1f6d.4f4fdad5.3a1bca23@cs.com>
	<940F8CE5E164470FA09A1F03AD47A1FD@bboffice>
Message-ID: <085501cb8ab4$a81d25e0$f85771a0$@rr.com>

> I suggested to TRF  a year or two ago that they make the wish list
> emailable

But that is easy enough to do yourself, by doing a copy & paste from the web
page to an email.  Either way, though, it doesn't help with Chris' desire
for a registry, where people could remove the item after they decide to give
it (so the recipient doesn't get duplicates).

Personally, I've never found duplicates to be a problem, so count your
blessings ...

-- Randall 


From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Tue Nov 23 05:21:09 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 07:21:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Registry
Message-ID: <D0D960812C334FFEB8931ACF2F15039D@AlexPC>

Has anyone had experience with updating the TR registry? Since registering several years back, I have moved and need to update the registry. Different email address, forgot the password, etc. Sent an email requesting help (several months ago) with no response. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Alex Manzo
59' TR3A

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov 23 05:41:49 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 07:41:49 EST
Subject: [TR] crazy thought
Message-ID: <62079.7718889a.3a1d108d@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/22/2010 7:46:33 PM Central Standard Time, 
wbeech at flash.net writes: 
> I suggested to TRF  a year or two ago that they make the wish list 
> emailable
> where you had a simple button at the bottom that would say "Email my
> wishlist to a friend".  They said they did not have the technology to do 
> it,
> I guess no one has figured it out as yet.
> 

In other words their contract website designer moved on to other things.

They have a very sophisticated website and I doubt they have anyone on 
staff full time that can deal with this option.  I know it is way above my 
capabilities.

Dave

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Nov 23 05:44:21 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 07:44:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hardened seats and cracked heads
In-Reply-To: <1935179396.1807111.1290457967645.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1935179396.1807111.1290457967645.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <201011230744.21736.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday, November 22, 2010 03:32:47 pm fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:
> List,
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop is telling me that they will no longer install hardened
> valve seats in cast iron heads because doing so substantially increases
> the chance of the head cracking. Supposedly (they say) this is even more
> risky with highly tuned street or race engines. Are they blowing smoke or
> is this true? Comments......
> 
> 
> 
> Ed Woods

Ed,

I have the hardened seats installed on my 3, 4 and 6. So far with the 3 and 4 
no problems. The 6 motor only has about 1 hour on the engine so it is to soon 
to tell.

The machine shop I use said nothing about the process when I dropped the heads 
off. No cautions, etc.

The 3 engine is 87MM otherwise stock. The 4 is stock all the way and so is the 
6. Minor head shaving just to insure a flat surface only.

Maybe their concern is the seat will expand and contract at different rates 
than the surrounding cast iron? But if so, wouldn't my machine shop know of 
this and refused?

Curious to hear other replies.



Bob

From pryner at verizon.net  Tue Nov 23 06:58:42 2010
From: pryner at verizon.net (pryner at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 13:58:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] Hardened seats and cracked heads
In-Reply-To: <201011230744.21736.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <1935179396.1807111.1290457967645.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><201011230744.21736.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <1274169059-1290520723-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1408652842-@bda180.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Never had a problem with mine.  Had the tr3 done by the RF in 94 been great since then.  I had hardened seats put in my mgb project car.  Machinest had no problem doing the job.  That said I did take the tr head to a local shop before sending it to the RF.  they made a mess of the head and said they couldn't get the seats to fit.  Don't know if the RF still has their cars maintenance service but I would recommend contacting them.
Pete 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 07:44:21 
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Hardened seats and cracked heads

On Monday, November 22, 2010 03:32:47 pm fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:
> List,
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop is telling me that they will no longer install hardened
> valve seats in cast iron heads because doing so substantially increases
> the chance of the head cracking. Supposedly (they say) this is even more
> risky with highly tuned street or race engines. Are they blowing smoke or
> is this true? Comments......
> 
> 
> 
> Ed Woods

Ed,

I have the hardened seats installed on my 3, 4 and 6. So far with the 3 and 4 
no problems. The 6 motor only has about 1 hour on the engine so it is to soon 
to tell.

The machine shop I use said nothing about the process when I dropped the heads 
off. No cautions, etc.

The 3 engine is 87MM otherwise stock. The 4 is stock all the way and so is the 
6. Minor head shaving just to insure a flat surface only.

Maybe their concern is the seat will expand and contract at different rates 
than the surrounding cast iron? But if so, wouldn't my machine shop know of 
this and refused?

Curious to hear other replies.



Bob
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner at verizon.net


From Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net  Tue Nov 23 08:58:37 2010
From: Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net (Frederick M Light)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 10:58:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <858A848C8EDD4D32A79B52DC6356431B@FrederickLight>

I am having trouble getting the clips onto the back of my Girling   wheel cylinder.  It is 40 yrs since I worked on this type and do not recall how I did it.  I would appreciate any help from someone who has this mastered
Fred   TS57038   

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov 23 09:21:41 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 08:21:41 -0800
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <858A848C8EDD4D32A79B52DC6356431B@FrederickLight>
References: <858A848C8EDD4D32A79B52DC6356431B@FrederickLight>
Message-ID: <053c01cb8b2a$8343d860$0301a8c0@randall>

> I am having trouble getting the clips onto the back of my 
> Girling   wheel cylinder.  It is 40 yrs since I worked on 
> this type and do not recall how I did it.  I would appreciate 
> any help from someone who has this mastered

The diagrams in many if not all of the books are wrong!  But the written
directions in the factory manual work fine and result in correct assembly.  

Briefly, put the cylinder in place, then install the smallest clip first
with the opening away from the handbrake lever, and the bent tabs away from
the backing plate.  Then put the larger clip with the bent tabs in place
between the smaller tab and the backing plate, also with the opening away
from the lever and the tabs away from the backing plate.  Now slip the
handbrake lever into position.  Now tap the third clip into place between
the first two, working from the other side (open end towards the handbrake
lever).  The tabs in the second clip should engage the notches in the third
clip to lock them together.

-- Randall  


From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 23 09:30:32 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 11:30:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tub Hauling Question
Message-ID: <COL119-W42EDCDAA57F77C6CF0CB59A53E0@phx.gbl>


Will a bare TR3 tub fit in a full-size pick-up bed with a cap?
 
Thanks!
 
John H. 		 	   		  

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Nov 23 10:45:54 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 09:45:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
Message-ID: <917577.60980.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Thanks Randall,
     The outer holes are closed at the bottom. There is a upper spring seat (doughnut shaped) that looks like it contains the caged nuts or nut plate between it and the shock tower on the frame.
     I was able to gently run a 3/8-24 tap in there to re-align the threads in the hole and get the bolt to thread in straight. The hole does bottom out. It helped to start the questionable bolt hole first and follow with the rest.
     I don't think that I could drill and run a helicoil in there without having the body off of the frame. I was tempted to attempt drilling from underneath and cutting some additional threads. I may do that in the future if ever in doubt.
     The bolt aligment, bolt threads and the nut plate thread condition are better now than in any time during my last 18 years of tearing around in the TR. I think that I'll call it good and enjoy the car.
     Thanks for everyone's help and advice.

     Bill in Tehachapi


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 12:05:13 -0800
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
Cc: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <080601cb8a80$9591fa10$c0b5ee30$@rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"

> I need to
> find a bottoming tap to try to clean it up.

I'm missing something here, Bill.  Those threaded holes are supposed to be
open at the bottom, so you shouldn't need a bottoming tap.

Sounds to me like you should go ahead and install a Helicoil, but that's
just my opinion.  I really hate having to worry that something will break
when I pitch the car into a high speed corner.

-- Randall


From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 23 11:11:09 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 13:11:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
In-Reply-To: <917577.60980.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <917577.60980.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W45943AC4E14B564B37EB1BA53E0@phx.gbl>


> The outer holes are closed at the bottom. There is a upper spring seat (doughnut shaped) that looks like it contains the caged nuts or nut plate between it and the shock tower on the frame.

 
That upper spring seat is supposed to come out.
 
John H. 		 	   		  

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Nov 23 11:13:45 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 10:13:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
In-Reply-To: <COL119-W45943AC4E14B564B37EB1BA53E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <579307.22459.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

???? Part of the spring seat (like a doughnut) came out with the spring and the metal part looks like it welded to the shock tower. Does the metal part come out of the bottom of the shock tower?

???? -Bill

--- On Tue, 11/23/10, John Herrera <jrherrera90 at hotmail.com> wrote:

From: John Herrera <jrherrera90 at hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net, tr3driver at ca.rr.com, "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, November 23, 2010, 10:11 AM




> The outer holes are closed at the bottom. There is a upper spring seat (doughnut shaped) that looks like it contains the caged nuts or nut plate between it and the shock tower on the frame.


?

That upper spring seat is supposed to come out.

?

John H.
 		 	   		  

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 23 11:17:09 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 13:17:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
In-Reply-To: <579307.22459.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <COL119-W45943AC4E14B564B37EB1BA53E0@phx.gbl>,
	<579307.22459.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W20AA11AF147E605460C22BA53E0@phx.gbl>







     Part of the spring seat (like a doughnut) came out with the spring and the metal part looks like it welded to the shock tower. Does the metal part come out of the bottom of the shock tower?

     -Bill



Yes. It's aluminum, I think.
 
John 		 	   		  

From perryfly at gmail.com  Tue Nov 23 11:33:39 2010
From: perryfly at gmail.com (Perry Hammock)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 13:33:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wheel cylinder tabs refitting
Message-ID: <AANLkTikngpnvBpEmFvn=3a03TkPVu3sLDEFWTPd3WB=m@mail.gmail.com>

FWIW, when i replaced my one rear cylinder (TR3) last winter, no amount of
advice or strategy could get the thing on (bought from big 3)

i had to file down the retaining ears to get it on, then found the threads
in the line mount were not clean
had two cyliinders do this from separate orders.  Frustrated me for weeks,
as I thought I was surely doing something wrong.NOPE
bouught replacement cylinders, from BPNW, went on like butter.

Im guessing there is a batch of bad castings out there, so make sure the
measurements are correct on the casting.

Perry Hammock
1960 TR3A ( 72k something)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov 23 11:43:19 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 13:43:19 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
Message-ID: <4389c.6d530581.3a1d6547@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/23/2010 12:17:36 PM Central Standard Time, 
jrherrera90 at hotmail.com writes: 
>      Part of the spring seat (like a doughnut) came out with the spring 
> and the metal part looks like it welded to the shock tower. Does the metal 
> part come out of the bottom of the shock tower?
> 
>      -Bill
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. It's aluminum, I think.
> 

That's not the seat, that is the spacer.  It seats into a seat that is 
permanently (I think) attached to the shock tower.  It is that seat that is 
blocking access to the underside of the weld nuts, as I recall (it's been a 
couple of years).

Dave

From mgowen55 at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 23 12:06:05 2010
From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 14:06:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <858A848C8EDD4D32A79B52DC6356431B@FrederickLight>
References: <858A848C8EDD4D32A79B52DC6356431B@FrederickLight>
Message-ID: <SNT120-DS103A326672CC33A31F469ED63E0@phx.gbl>

I did this a couple of years back and it was not intuitively obvious to me. 
I finally figured out a configuration that worked. I posted a pictorial of 
sorts at
http://computeresources.com/TR4-A/RearBrakes/rear_brakes.htm . This is for a 
Girling 9" drum - hopefully yours is the same.
HTH,
Glenn


> I am having trouble getting the clips onto the back of my Girling   wheel 
> cylinder.  It is 40 yrs since I worked on this type and do not recall how 
> I did it.  I would appreciate any help from someone who has this mastered
> Fred   TS57038
 


From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 23 13:31:18 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 15:31:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
In-Reply-To: <4389c.6d530581.3a1d6547@cs.com>
References: <4389c.6d530581.3a1d6547@cs.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W112282A32238C1C33CED06A53E0@phx.gbl>


> That's not the seat, that is the spacer. It seats into a seat that is 
> permanently (I think) attached to the shock tower. It is that seat that is 
> blocking access to the underside of the weld nuts, as I recall (it's been a 
> couple of years).
> 
> Dave

Could very well be so, Dave. I thought maybe Bill is calling the spacer a spring seat.
 
John H. 		 	   		  

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Nov 23 14:50:41 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 16:50:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tub Hauling Question
In-Reply-To: <COL119-W42EDCDAA57F77C6CF0CB59A53E0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL119-W42EDCDAA57F77C6CF0CB59A53E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=Eu2nhQ4whcrGXN-72nLyu0eyZYkfjOcBQRyzb@mail.gmail.com>

no idea.  But please take some pictures and post them if you do this!!!

On Tue, Nov 23, 2010 at 11:30 AM, John Herrera <jrherrera90 at hotmail.com>wrote:

>
> Will a bare TR3 tub fit in a full-size pick-up bed with a cap?
>
> Thanks!
>
> John H.
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com
>
>

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Nov 23 15:06:00 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 15:06:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-DS103A326672CC33A31F469ED63E0@phx.gbl>
References: <858A848C8EDD4D32A79B52DC6356431B@FrederickLight>
	<SNT120-DS103A326672CC33A31F469ED63E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4CEC3AC8.6000000@gmail.com>

On 11/23/10 12:06 PM, Glenn Owen wrote:
> I did this a couple of years back and it was not intuitively obvious to
> me. I finally figured out a configuration that worked. I posted a
> pictorial of sorts at
> http://computeresources.com/TR4-A/RearBrakes/rear_brakes.htm . This is
> for a Girling 9" drum - hopefully yours is the same.
> HTH,
> Glenn


Super!  I just added a link to your web page from one of my net nugget 
web pages.  Great illustrations

Teriann


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov 23 15:24:06 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 17:24:06 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 Upper Fulcrum Bolts
Message-ID: <c5b88.7c5af098.3a1d9906@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/23/2010 2:31:21 PM Central Standard Time, 
jrherrera90 at hotmail.com writes: 
> Could very well be so, Dave. I thought maybe Bill is calling the spacer a 
> spring seat.
> 

The way the get stuck in there sometimes it is not obvious that they even 
come out.

Cheers

Dave

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Nov 23 15:44:05 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 16:44:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tub Hauling Question
References: <COL119-W42EDCDAA57F77C6CF0CB59A53E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <161FB6F4EC084CB389F8CE30F1C636D9@trigeni.com>

If it doesn't, you could try a beret worn at a jaunty angle...

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Herrera" <jrherrera90 at hotmail.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 10:30 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tub Hauling Question


>
> Will a bare TR3 tub fit in a full-size pick-up bed with a cap?
>
> Thanks!
>
> John H.
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com
>
> 


From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Nov 23 22:46:35 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 22:46:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Registry
In-Reply-To: <D0D960812C334FFEB8931ACF2F15039D@AlexPC>
References: <D0D960812C334FFEB8931ACF2F15039D@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <A6174CD793644BDF898DAEFB5FAA577C@bboffice>

Alex,
Just logged in and viewed my listing with no problems.  What is your
commission number, I'll try to look it up?
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 5:21 AM
To: *Triumphs List
Subject: [TR] TR3 Registry

Has anyone had experience with updating the TR registry? Since registering
several years back, I have moved and need to update the registry. Different
email address, forgot the password, etc. Sent an email requesting help
(several months ago) with no response. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Alex Manzo
59' TR3A
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Nov 24 07:56:39 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 14:56:39 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] "TRIUMPH & Tragedy" - a NEW book
Message-ID: <917471.20814.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

There's a new and unique book about Standard-Triumph that enthusiasts may want 
to buy. Go to www.standardmotorclub.org.uk/johnblack for full ordering details. 
NFI

Jonmac



      

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 24 16:03:04 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 15:03:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] gearbox stuff
Message-ID: <173173.67678.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

List,
I've removed the tailshaft from the gearbox  (tr-3) and noticed that the tab 
that inserts into the slot holding the countershaft in place was cracked and 
fell apart when I unscrewed it.  I had another gearbox which I took apart and 
found that it also had a tab which was cracked/broken in the same place.  Could 
not find that tab for sale in the Moss site so will probably make up my own.  


I also noticed that I can turn the mainshaft when the gearbox is in reverse and 
neutral but not in any forward gear.  Is this normal?  Or is something jammed?  


Curious if anyone else has experienced these same issues.  Inexperienced 
mechanic here......lol

gary n.



      

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 24 17:13:40 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 16:13:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] gearbox stuff
In-Reply-To: <173173.67678.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <173173.67678.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0b0401cb8c35$9ebbe360$dc33aa20$@rr.com>

> Could
> not find that tab for sale in the Moss site so will probably make up my
> own.

TRF has it listed, P/N 129938, $5.10

> I also noticed that I can turn the mainshaft when the gearbox is in
> reverse and
> neutral but not in any forward gear.  Is this normal?  

Not normal, but I can't think what would cause it.  All of the forward gears
stay in mesh all the time, so about the only way it would turn freely in
reverse but not in any forward gear is if you are somehow getting it into
two gears at once.  Perhaps the top cover is messed up?  It has an interlock
that is supposed to prevent that.

-- Randall 


From dwillner at ptd.net  Wed Nov 24 17:44:48 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 19:44:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A control head install question
Message-ID: <9278CD50DE0B45D79A0A752DD2AD4B7B@valued9cfc0b6f>

What the best way to snake the a new control head's wires down thru the stator tube, seems just a bit tight. Instructions say to rotate counter clockwise while feeding it, will this work?  
Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving...

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Nov 24 17:53:06 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 18:53:06 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fog/Spot Lamp wiring
Message-ID: <2194688.933995.1290646386978.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>


I wasn't going to mount them until much later - however - as I was looking at the bumper/over-riders I noticed that the overrider support tubes have holes in them (front & rear on the bottom).  Although it would be very difficult to feed wiring through them as they are - if larger it would be possible.   

In its earlier incarnation - the wiring was "tied" beneath the bumper supports - routed behind the bumper & overrider to the lamps.  Very sloppy look.   The above would be a more direct route and be hidden from view except the last 3-4".

Anyone else tried it?  Any thoughts?  

Carl
It is definitely looking like a car again....  

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Nov 24 19:32:16 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 21:32:16 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3A control head install question
Message-ID: <4ac03.185317b9.3a1f24b0@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/24/2010 6:51:55 PM Central Standard Time, 
dwillner at ptd.net writes: 
> What the best way to snake the a new control head's wires down thru the 
> stator tube, seems just a bit tight. Instructions say to rotate counter 
> clockwise while feeding it, will this work?  
> Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving...
> 

I just did this a few months ago.  I was able to just push it through.  
First I removed the old one, blew any remaining crud out of the tube with 
compressed air and fed it through.  I don't remember twisting the wires but this 
is a common technique to move past an obstruction.  

I've successfully pushed wires through conduit but it doesn't always work.  
In this case the technique is to push a pull lead through (sometimes falled 
a fishtape), tie (tape, whatever) your wires to the end of the lead and 
pull the wires through.

The trick is to make the attachment to the fish tape in such a manner that 
the diameter is not bigger than the tube.

But give pushing it a try.  If it works it will save you some trouble.

Dave

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Nov 24 20:05:41 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 21:05:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] in search of
In-Reply-To: <20101120230348.2E8F6AE66E@mail.dsl.napanet.net>
References: <20101120230348.2E8F6AE66E@mail.dsl.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <85BC152543E54F6B9EB057309C3F179A@ranteer.local>

?hi.  I'm in search of

1.  electronic voltage regulator to replace existing one on car

2.  contact info for person/company which takes various components, like a 
voltage regulator, and replaces the guts with electronic components within 
the existing shell so the car still looks original

this may be the same person/company

thanks! 


From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Wed Nov 24 22:22:50 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 21:22:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Steering Wheel TR4A
Message-ID: <447655.2954.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

List,
Has anyone gone with a slightly smaller steering wheel in a TR4/4A?? My standard 
wheel is 16 inches diameter but?hits?my right?leg at times.? When I was younger 
and thinner, I never noticed a problem. LOL
Pat
TR4A, '67
1CTC/72746-L


      

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 24 22:30:50 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 21:30:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A control head install question
In-Reply-To: <9278CD50DE0B45D79A0A752DD2AD4B7B@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <9278CD50DE0B45D79A0A752DD2AD4B7B@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <081501cb8c61$ec07c680$0301a8c0@randall>


> What the best way to snake the a new control head's wires 
> down thru the stator tube, seems just a bit tight. 

My favorite method is to poke some steel wire (aka baling wire) through the
tube and fasten it to the wires just beyond the end of the outer jacket.
Just bend the wire into a tight loop, and wrap it tightly to the wires with
electrical tape or similar.  

Easiest with the tube out of the car, IMO, just clamp the end of the steel
wire in the bench vise and back away, pulling on the tube with one hand and
feeding the wire into it with the other.  If you do it in the car, you will
either need help, or make countless trips back and forth to alternately pull
and guide.

Note that the control head harness only fits through the tube one way.  You
have to start the bullet end into the tube end that has the slot.

Last time, I also picked up some wire-pulling lubricant at Home Depot, which
seemed to make the job go much easier.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/51010.html

-- Randall  


From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Nov 25 07:36:37 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 08:36:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] Happy Thanksgiving
Message-ID: <SNT123-W59A0DE7471EF2BD49A9177E1200@phx.gbl>


Drive safely and enjoy the day.
 
Oh and over eating is required!

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA 
'63 TR3B TCF587L 
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! 


 		 	   		  

From darrellw at ipns.com  Thu Nov 25 07:58:50 2010
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 06:58:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] Steering Wheel TR4A
In-Reply-To: <447655.2954.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <447655.2954.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <23ACB69F-5AD6-4E6B-BF56-9D3BD8282B54@ipns.com>


On Nov 24, 2010, at 9:22 PM, P Caffrey wrote:

> List,
> Has anyone gone with a slightly smaller steering wheel in a TR4/4A?  My standard 
> wheel is 16 inches diameter but hits my right leg at times.  When I was younger 
> and thinner, I never noticed a problem. LOL
> Pat
> TR4A, '67
> 1CTC/72746-L
> 

Hi Pat,

I have had a 14" on my car for a long time.  Even with a "quick rack", I don't find the steering effort to be a problem.  I definitely recommend it.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Nov 25 09:05:00 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 10:05:00 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fog/Spot Lamp wiring question #2
Message-ID: <30671394.953665.1290701100614.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

I am mounting a pair of lights on the project.    I made notes of posts to the list over the years and thought I would be able to search the archives but 'get too many hits'.  I also thought I had a copy of Dan Master's book but I think I loaned it to someone (and not returned)

So, here are the notes I have:

Ground Relay to chassis by direct connection
Black Ground from Lamp to chassis.
fused 18g line (Red w/Blue or w/White) from Headlamp Switch to 'hot' terminal of combination fog/spot switch.   Should it be to S1 or S2? S2 appears to be live only when the headlight switch is 'on';  S1 feeds the ignition warning lamp.

Fog Lamp
??g line (Color?) from Fog side of switch to W1 on 'Fog' relay.  (I am thinking 18g)  
   options: Red w/Blue or Red w/Yellow (I think RY)
14g line (??? w/???) from A1 on Voltage Regulator to C1 on 'Fog' relay.  
   options: Brown w/Blue (same as Light feed on Voltage Regulator) or ???  (I think NU) 
14g line (Red w/Yellow) from C2 on relay to lamp

Driving Lamp
??g line (Color?) from Spot side of switch to W1 on 'Spot' relay. (again 18g?)
   options Red w/Blue or Blue w/Yellow (I think UY)
14g line (Color?) from A1 on Voltage Regulator to C1 on 'Spot' relay
   options NU or ??? (I think NU)
14g line (Blue w/Yellow) from C2 on relay to lamp
 
Questions (other than wire color & gauge)
Where should the relays be mounted?  Under dash near switch; on firewall near regulator; or near the lamp (on inner wing near horns)?
I am leaning toward at the lamp end.

If mounting one fog/one spot - is there a preferred side for either?   I am thinking about dual wiring both sides; so that lamps could be switched out as needed.  Also, that means I can run the lines down the same side and bundle/wrap the wires going to the other side on the cross-member.  

If I do run it on one side - is there any reason I couldn't run one 14g line (NU) from A1 splitting to both C1 terminals (bullet 'quad' connector)?

Suggestions/thoughts/opinions appreciated.
Also, other than British wiring - are there other sources for the specialty wire (a source that might be local).
Or, if I can't find the correct tracers...   what would be the best choices?   

Thanks
Carl
1961 TR3A TS81802LO

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Nov 25 09:37:40 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 10:37:40 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fog/Spot Lamp wiring question #2
Message-ID: <18355857.955212.1290703060562.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

I looked at my diagram cross-eyed.  S1 from Headlamp Switch feeds the HighBeam indicator not the Ignition lamp.   So the question is whether the fused line should come off the lamp switch or the ignition switch.  The difference being whether the fog/spot lamps should be operational without regular lights.

Nov 25, 2010 04:07:30 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

I am mounting a pair of lights on the project. I made notes of posts to the list over the years and thought I would be able to search the archives but 'get too many hits'. I also thought I had a copy of Dan Master's book but I think I loaned it to someone (and not returned)

So, here are the notes I have:

Ground Relay to chassis by direct connection
Black Ground from Lamp to chassis.
fused 18g line (Red w/Blue or w/White) from Headlamp Switch to 'hot' terminal of combination fog/spot switch. Should it be to S1 or S2? S2 appears to be live only when the headlight switch is 'on'; S1 feeds the ignition warning lamp.

Fog Lamp
??g line (Color?) from Fog side of switch to W1 on 'Fog' relay. (I am thinking 18g) 
options: Red w/Blue or Red w/Yellow (I think RY)
14g line (??? w/???) from A1 on Voltage Regulator to C1 on 'Fog' relay. 
options: Brown w/Blue (same as Light feed on Voltage Regulator) or ??? (I think NU) 
14g line (Red w/Yellow) from C2 on relay to lamp

Driving Lamp
??g line (Color?) from Spot side of switch to W1 on 'Spot' relay. (again 18g?)
options Red w/Blue or Blue w/Yellow (I think UY)
14g line (Color?) from A1 on Voltage Regulator to C1 on 'Spot' relay
options NU or ??? (I think NU)
14g line (Blue w/Yellow) from C2 on relay to lamp

Questions (other than wire color & gauge)
Where should the relays be mounted? Under dash near switch; on firewall near regulator; or near the lamp (on inner wing near horns)?
I am leaning toward at the lamp end.

If mounting one fog/one spot - is there a preferred side for either? I am thinking about dual wiring both sides; so that lamps could be switched out as needed. Also, that means I can run the lines down the same side and bundle/wrap the wires going to the other side on the cross-member. 

If I do run it on one side - is there any reason I couldn't run one 14g line (NU) from A1 splitting to both C1 terminals (bullet 'quad' connector)?

Suggestions/thoughts/opinions appreciated.
Also, other than British wiring - are there other sources for the specialty wire (a source that might be local).
Or, if I can't find the correct tracers... what would be the best choices? 

Thanks
Carl
1961 TR3A TS81802LO

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Nov 25 10:05:51 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 10:05:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fog/Spot Lamp wiring question #2
In-Reply-To: <30671394.953665.1290701100614.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <30671394.953665.1290701100614.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <4CEE976F.4060009@gmail.com>

On 11/25/10 9:05 AM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:
> Also, other than British wiring - are there other sources for the specialty wire (a source that might be local).
> Or, if I can't find the correct tracers...   what would be the best choices?
>
> Thanks
> Carl
>    

Carol, I don't know what you consider to be local but British Pacific 
tries to keep a stock of British striped wiring which they sell by the 
foot.  They also have the bullet connectors, barrels correct connectors, 
insulators, bulkhead grommets and what is currently available in the way 
of voltage regulators, Lucas fuse boxes, ignition coils, starter 
solenoids and generators.

1-800-554-4133 as for Marty or Steve  They are both Triumph people.  
They are open black Friday.

Teriann

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Nov 25 10:07:27 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 11:07:27 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fog/Spot Lamp wiring question #2
Message-ID: <20937280.956403.1290704847296.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

I understand the need to wire separately and had planned on doing so except for the initial feed off the 'switch'.  I am not sure if I understand the 'on with park' or 'on with main' - controlling fog/spot with switch.  

The scheme outlined below is, I believe, a 'turn on' when needed system.  Also,the switch is either fog or spot - cannot be both - rotary with fog on right; spot on left which lines up with what you are saying about placement..  

Thanks Phil for the input - I now just need to figure out the relay placement, the wire gauging, and color scheme..  :O)


Nov 25, 2010 04:43:45 PM, pebarnes71 at gmail.com wrote:

I would wire them to operate independently, since in fog a spot lamp is useless/dangerous. Mount the fog on the passenger/right side, the spot on the left. In fog you want to see the stripe on the side of the road. When conditions are clear, the spot will illuminate the middle of the road for a long distance.If you think you're going to be driving in heavy fog, wire the fog lamp to come on with the parking lamps, so you aren't fighting the dipped beams. Similarly, wire the spot lamp to come on/off with the main beams, but be able to disable it via the switch.
 
Let me know if you need help with the wiring logic of this arrangement.
 
Lessons learned from years of rallying in the dark.
 
--Phil Barnes, '71 TR6 since 1977

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Nov 25 10:19:57 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 12:19:57 EST
Subject: [TR] Happy Thanksgiving
Message-ID: <2164e.7662d35e.3a1ff4bd@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/25/2010 8:36:47 AM Central Standard Time, 
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> Oh and over eating is required!
> 
Burp.  Er.. What?  What did you say?  I must have dozed off.

Dave

(To our Canadian and European friends: Get back to work!)

;-)

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 25 10:25:21 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 09:25:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fog/Spot Lamp wiring question #2
In-Reply-To: <18355857.955212.1290703060562.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <18355857.955212.1290703060562.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <08e901cb8cc5$bd233c00$0301a8c0@randall>

My preference would be to feed the new switch(s) from S1 of the original
headlight switch (taillight circuit).  That way, the fog & spot lights will
only work when the taillights are also on.  For me, it would also reduce the
chances of leaving the new lights on when parking the car, while still
allowing them to be on with the key off.

You could also get the power from A on the headlight switch instead of A1 on
the control box, if you choose.  That run of wire is plenty heavy enough to
handle the extra load, IMO.  Wherever you choose, though, I would definitely
put a fuse, fusible link or circuit breaker near that point.  If, God
forbid, you get in an accident and mash one of those lights, you sure won't
want the wiring harness burning up in addition to the front end damage.

Your wire sizes sound fine, although I might go to 12 AWG for the power legs
if it wasn't too much hassle.  I have on occasion been known to install
higher power bulbs.

Relay location is mostly personal preference.  Unless you are using
period-correct relays (an original installation would not have used them at
all), it's probably best to hide them either under the dash or under the
front apron.  Either way, I would make a small bracket to carry the relays,
get them wired and tested first, and then bolt the bracket in place.

-- Randall  


From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Nov 25 10:32:14 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 10:32:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fog/Spot Lamp wiring question #2
In-Reply-To: <18355857.955212.1290703060562.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <18355857.955212.1290703060562.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <4CEE9D9E.7080907@gmail.com>

If it helps the standard reads:

Blue/yellow - Long range driving lamp to switch.

Red/Yellow - Fog light switch to to fog light or fog light fuse to fog 
lights

Red/blue - front fog light fuse to fog light switch

Usually the fog lamp is wired to the blue/red wire connection (power for 
low beam headlamps) so they they will only be on when the low beam 
headlamps are on.  I haven't looked recently at a diagram for high beams 
in years so no advice there.  But yes the aux lights should be 
operational only when the headlamps are on.

Teriann


From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Nov 25 10:38:48 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 10:38:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fog/Spot Lamp wiring question #2
In-Reply-To: <16958074.956850.1290705570421.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <16958074.956850.1290705570421.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <4CEE9F28.7080709@gmail.com>

On 11/25/10 10:19 AM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:
>
> I had checked your pages about the wiring but other than the codes for fog - didn't see anything.  If you feel like it you could add Blue w/Yellow for Spot switch to lamp (similar to the Red w/Yellow).  Found that bit somewhere earlier today.   If
>    
Opps I need to update that page in my triumph site.  I started wih 
dulicate pages, one in the TR site and one in the LR site.  It appears I 
have been updating the LR site but not the TR site.  Opps.

I also have a lot of saved advice I need to move from Thunderbird to my 
TR site as well.  There has been a lot of advice given, mostly on the 
FOT list, that doesn't seem to be documented anywhere.

Teriann

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 25 10:39:54 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 09:39:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fog/Spot Lamp wiring question #2
In-Reply-To: <4CEE976F.4060009@gmail.com>
References: <30671394.953665.1290701100614.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
	<4CEE976F.4060009@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <08f401cb8cc7$c56963b0$0301a8c0@randall>

> 1-800-554-4133 as for Marty or Steve  They are both Triumph people.  

Indeed they are, although I think Marty sold off most of his collection and
Steve is down to just 3 or 4 Triumphs <G>

> They are open black Friday.

Thanks for the tip, I may take a drive up there.

-- Randall  


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Nov 25 11:19:55 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 11:19:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A control head install question
In-Reply-To: <081501cb8c61$ec07c680$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <9278CD50DE0B45D79A0A752DD2AD4B7B@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<081501cb8c61$ec07c680$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=aiAkXEFZL5rD4_uuLJurLDpmO_eQh09w5HGor@mail.gmail.com>

May need to stagger the bullets (if they want to be alongside each
other) to make a tighter package.  Have heard of some who resorted to
removing the bullets and reattaching once the wires were thru but
wouldn't think this should be necessary for the stock tube.

From jdabars at att.net  Thu Nov 25 11:29:56 2010
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 10:29:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: Fwd: Happy Turkey Day SONG
Message-ID: <920609.5804.qm@web83708.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>




?



Subject: Happy Turkey Day? SING ALONG!?? (sound on)


http://images.businessweek.com/ss/05/11/egreetings/source/2.htm 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 25 11:34:18 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 10:34:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A control head install question
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=aiAkXEFZL5rD4_uuLJurLDpmO_eQh09w5HGor@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9278CD50DE0B45D79A0A752DD2AD4B7B@valued9cfc0b6f><081501cb8c61$ec07c680$0301a8c0@randall>
	<AANLkTi=aiAkXEFZL5rD4_uuLJurLDpmO_eQh09w5HGor@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <08fc01cb8ccf$5efb5680$0301a8c0@randall>

> May need to stagger the bullets (if they want to be alongside each
> other) to make a tighter package.

I agree, but a properly made harness should have the bullets staggered
already.  The one I got from TRF did.

-- Randall  


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Nov 25 11:34:34 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 11:34:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fog/Spot Lamp wiring
In-Reply-To: <2194688.933995.1290646386978.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <2194688.933995.1290646386978.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimPPV6kkNfFmCD4ZW=1Puf_LYCusc2co71sVH=K@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/24/10, cfmtr3a at verizon.net <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

> ...the wiring was "tied" beneath the bumper
> supports - routed behind the bumper & overrider to the lamps.  Very sloppy
> look...

Like the wires for the license plate lamps on the TR4?

Will probably look neater if run thru a plastic sheath.  On the TR4
rear they attached the license plate lamp wires to the black steel
bumper brackets using metal clips -- a route and method that might be
a bit more discreet for the driving lamps.

I suppose those holes in the supports were for drainage.  Even if
enlarged I would be concerned about wire chafing if run thru them.

Geo

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Thu Nov 25 12:15:46 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 14:15:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Happy Thanksgiving
Message-ID: <1603c.6e6120c7.3a200fe2@aol.com>



In a message dated 11/25/2010 12:21:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:

Burp.  Er.. What?  What did you say?  I must have  dozed off.

Calling occupants of interplanetary craft. We are your  friends.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Darrell

From carlsereda at aol.com  Thu Nov 25 12:16:15 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 11:16:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] smaller steering TR4
In-Reply-To: <mailman.16414.1290705570.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <54B54095.27BE.4739.B6C9.58CC63AF3EB0@aol.com>

Pat,
A Triumph Spitfire steering wheel of similar year looks almost identical to the TR4 steering wheel but measures about 15". I've seen a few over the years on eBay mistakenly labelled - they are so close. Some folks have told me dealers would swap in a Spit wheel into a TR4 for their taller customers. I used a Spitfire wheel on my TR4 for a few years but didn't really like the reduced leverage - made the steering feel harder to operate and it's slightly less robust a steering wheel than the TR version.?
You might consider checking if you could lower the seats a little more than the factory allowance..
As I restore my car I'm going to make sure the steering column is bolted up 'as high as possible'.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

?
On Nov 25, 2010, at 9:19:30 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

List,
Has anyone gone with a slightly smaller steering wheel in a TR4/4A?? My standard?
wheel is 16 inches diameter but?hits?my right?leg at times.? When I was younger?
and thinner, I never noticed a problem. LOL


From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Thu Nov 25 12:47:18 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 14:47:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Electronic Voltage Regulator Conversion
In-Reply-To: <mailman.16414.1290705570.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.16414.1290705570.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4CEEBD46.3070507@gmail.com>

Haven't used them myself, but it looks like what you're after.

http://www.wiltonae.com/home/index.aspx

Let us know how it works out.

Ben.....


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300


On 11/25/2010 12:19 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 21:05:41 -0600
> From: "dave"<dave at ranteer.com>
> Subject: [TR] in search of
> To:<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID:<85BC152543E54F6B9EB057309C3F179A at ranteer.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=response
>
> ?hi.  I'm in search of
>
> 1.  electronic voltage regulator to replace existing one on car
>
> 2.  contact info for person/company which takes various components, like a
> voltage regulator, and replaces the guts with electronic components within
> the existing shell so the car still looks original
>
> this may be the same person/company
>
> thanks!
>    

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Nov 25 13:22:33 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 14:22:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re:  Electronic Voltage Regulator Conversion
In-Reply-To: <4CEEBD46.3070507@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.16414.1290705570.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4CEEBD46.3070507@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <21B00227A27B406F9CC653AFD8163EDB@ranteer.local>

?that is who I am looking for.  thank you!

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ben Zwissler" <bjzwissler at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2010 1:47 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [TR] Electronic Voltage Regulator Conversion

> Haven't used them myself, but it looks like what you're after.
> 
> http://www.wiltonae.com/home/index.aspx
> 
> Let us know how it works out.
> 
> Ben.....
> 
> 
> Ben Zwissler
> bjzwissler at gmail.com
> Columbus, IN
> 1966 Triumph TR4A
> 1973 MG Midget
> 1980 Triumph TR8
> 2007 Mazda RX8
> 2002 Yamaha FZ1
> 2003 Honda ST1300
> 
>  

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Nov 25 14:02:10 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 21:02:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Steering Wheel TR4A
In-Reply-To: <447655.2954.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <208764588.1577530.1290718930920.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I had the leather wheel from Vicky Brit in my TR4 for a while. I put in an original wheel for the look and thinking Sue would drive it with the lower steering effort.

I liked the smaller wheel. With the bigger one I often had trouble finding a place for my left leg on long drives. 

Last I heard Rob Pennington was still using leather one on his TR6. 





Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Thu Nov 25 16:37:38 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 15:37:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Steering Wheel TR4A
In-Reply-To: <208764588.1577530.1290718930920.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <208764588.1577530.1290718930920.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <147413.52837.qm@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Phil,
Thank you for the feedback, and thank you?to the others who responded both on 
and off-list.? The 14" wheel seems to be a popular choice by some....I hope 
everyone is having a great Thanksgiving.
Pat



________________________________
From: "pethier at comcast.net" <pethier at comcast.net>
To: P Caffrey <pcaffrey at ymail.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, November 25, 2010 1:02:10 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Steering Wheel TR4A

I had the leather wheel from Vicky Brit in my TR4 for a while. I put in an 
original wheel for the look and thinking Sue would drive it with the lower 
steering effort.

I liked the smaller wheel. With the bigger one I often had trouble finding a 
place for my left leg on long drives. 


Last I heard Rob Pennington was still using leather one on his TR6. 





Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com



      

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Nov 25 20:30:52 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 22:30:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A control head install question
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=aiAkXEFZL5rD4_uuLJurLDpmO_eQh09w5HGor@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9278CD50DE0B45D79A0A752DD2AD4B7B@valued9cfc0b6f><081501cb8c61$ec07c680$0301a8c0@randall>
	<AANLkTi=aiAkXEFZL5rD4_uuLJurLDpmO_eQh09w5HGor@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CD5B31763993B2-6C8-1A16B@webmail-d046.sysops.aol.com>


 


May need to stagger the bullets (if they want to be alongside each
other) to make a tighter package.  Have heard of some who resorted to
removing the bullets and reattaching once the wires were thru but
wouldn't think this should be necessary for the stock tube.


 

 


 
I have heard that they are designed to be staggered.  At least mine was.

Dave


From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Nov 25 22:20:03 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 22:20:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A control head install question
In-Reply-To: <8CD5B31763993B2-6C8-1A16B@webmail-d046.sysops.aol.com>
References: <9278CD50DE0B45D79A0A752DD2AD4B7B@valued9cfc0b6f><081501cb8c61$ec07c680$0301a8c0@randall><AANLkTi=aiAkXEFZL5rD4_uuLJurLDpmO_eQh09w5HGor@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CD5B31763993B2-6C8-1A16B@webmail-d046.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <5D24074E08354EEE8285CC05D1C6AD91@bboffice>

As were mine, I thought "What a genius to think of this"!  They slipped
right in.

If your bullets are not staggered now, rather than remove and re-attach them
in the same place, re-attach them in a staggered position so it will be easy
peasy next time. 

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2010 8:31 PM
To: ahwahneetr at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A control head install question


 


May need to stagger the bullets (if they want to be alongside each
other) to make a tighter package.  Have heard of some who resorted to
removing the bullets and reattaching once the wires were thru but wouldn't
think this should be necessary for the stock tube.


 

 


 
I have heard that they are designed to be staggered.  At least mine was.

Dave

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Nov 26 16:07:23 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 18:07:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Giving thanks for many things
Message-ID: <4CEFF75B.29441.BD8E19A@localhost>

...for your fellowship, and especially for the GT6 grearbox mating 
smoothly with the engine and clutch this afternoon.  Okay so it did 
take a few hours of persuasion.  Nevertheless, it is in regardless of 
how long it took.

Yes, I know it is a day late.  Thanksgiving Day (not to be confused 
with the day on which they hold the Macy's Day Parade) was spent with 
old friends.  Today (as is every day) is still a day to give thanks.  
For li'l ol' me working alone in a crowded, dark, and cold garage 
getting the gearbox in is a major accomplishment, one I've done too 
many times and never look forward to doing again.  With luck this 
time will last more than a few years.

(Let us not forget the beer.  But not when driving is involved.)

Drive safe!

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com


From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Fri Nov 26 17:48:47 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 19:48:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Hood needed
Message-ID: <681A530DAF324CCE855D058BDA29C98F@TRGUY>

Looking for a clean TR4 hood, no rust, no damage on corner where you lift up the hood for my TR4 resto project. Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving! 
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 26 18:53:31 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 17:53:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 master cylinder reservoir
Message-ID: <758287.92166.qm@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

what is the reassembly procedure?
copper washers on the outside of both fittings?
is it good belt and braces to use a little hylomar?
is hylomar OK with dot 5?
or am i better using a silicone sealer?
thanks
Frank?


      

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Fri Nov 26 19:43:55 2010
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 19:43:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Seeking a car cover recommendation
Message-ID: <40FF8F7A14EE438B96AD98D3D54375FC@bboffice>

I am looking for a new car cover for the TR3 this winter that will do a good
job of blocking dampness and dust.  My car sits in a barn and therefore is
not subjected to harsh weather conditions except the magpies and the
occasional roof leak
 
Moss lists five(5) different covers in their catalog, I am thinking maybe
the Mosom Plus(?), there are a zillion listing on eBay, what is the favorite
for indoor storage under dusty conditions and sometimes a leaky roof?
 
TIA,
Bill
 
 

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Nov 26 21:25:17 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 04:25:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Happy Thanksgiving
In-Reply-To: <2164e.7662d35e.3a1ff4bd@cs.com>
Message-ID: <517266000.1613588.1290831917287.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: Dave1massey at cs.com


> Burp.  Er.. What?  What did you say?  I must have dozed off.
> 
> Dave
> 
> (To our Canadian and European friends: Get back to work!)

Not to worry about the Canadians.  They had Thanksgiving over a month ago when the weather was better.  (Also closer the the date the Pilgims did, I'm told.)

Europeans, you are on your own.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Nov 27 06:18:04 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 08:18:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Happy Thanksgiving
In-Reply-To: <517266000.1613588.1290831917287.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CD5C4CA8608BDA-E48-61AA@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com>


 


Not to worry about the Canadians.  They had Thanksgiving over a month ago when 
the weather was better.  (Also closer the the date the Pilgims did, I'm told.)

Europeans, you are on your own.


 I'm told that Great Britain celebrates Thanksgiving.

On July 4th.


Dave




 



From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Nov 27 09:36:01 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 10:36:01 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fog/Spot Lamp wiring schematic
Message-ID: <11898805.1025415.1290875761211.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

see: 
http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/?action=view&current=fog-spotschematic.jpg
http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/?action=view&current=fog-spot_switch_panel.jpg
(They are #1 & #2 in the album; #3 is the slideshow on my project - I need to update that one)
 
The Fog/Spot lamp switch is a rotary two-way. Either Fog or Spot can be selected - not both. 
 
The Relays are modern type mounted on the front side of the passenger-side horn 'tower'. 
I am now waiting for the wire to come - so will let you know how it goes from here. 
 
Back to work.....
 
Carl
 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Nov 27 10:23:39 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 09:23:39 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fog/Spot Lamp wiring schematic
In-Reply-To: <11898805.1025415.1290875761211.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <11898805.1025415.1290875761211.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <000e01cb8e57$d5212810$0301a8c0@randall>

> see: 
> http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/?action=view
> &current=fog-spotschematic.jpg

I'm puzzled about your choice of fuses, Carl.  Why bother protecting the
power to the relay coils (and with a 15 amp fuse when the coils draw less
than 0.1 amps), but not the larger wires that power the lamps?  Those wires
running out to the front bumper seem the most likely to short, to me.

-- Randall  


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Nov 27 10:58:00 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 11:58:00 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fog/Spot Lamp wiring schematic
Message-ID: <9526873.1028988.1290880680922.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

Ah,  missed that one...  Can an in-line handle that or should I think about a second fuse box?


Nov 27, 2010 05:31:13 PM, TR3driver at ca.rr.com wrote:

> see: 
> http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/?action=view
> ?t=fog-spotschematic.jpg

I'm puzzled about your choice of fuses, Carl. Why bother protecting the
power to the relay coils (and with a 15 amp fuse when the coils draw less
than 0.1 amps), but not the larger wires that power the lamps? Those wires
running out to the front bumper seem the most likely to short, to me.

-- Randall 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Nov 27 14:45:44 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 13:45:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fog/Spot Lamp wiring schematic
In-Reply-To: <9526873.1028988.1290880680922.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <9526873.1028988.1290880680922.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <005101cb8e7c$72a3d6e0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Ah,  missed that one...  Can an in-line handle that or should 
> I think about a second fuse box?

Either way will work just fine.  To me, a nice Lucas fuse box looks more
professional, but in-line will work just as well.  Be sure to secure it so
it can't vibrate and flex the wires, though.  Constant flexing will
eventually break even stranded wire.

-- Randall  


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Nov 28 14:25:40 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 15:25:40 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fog/Spot Lamp wiring schematic - revised
Message-ID: <24028341.1075795.1290979540296.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

Thanks to Randall and others I have uploaded a revised diagram for the fog/spot lights at http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/?action=view?t=fog-spotschematicv2.jpg.

The lamp relays are mounted on the front side of the horn tower on the passenger side. Wiring will be bundled with the 'leg' that feeds the horns, etc on that side of the engine compartment. Each relay has two power lines going to the front - one to each side. This is so that if I decide to run two fog or two driving lights, I can make the switch without major effort. The connectors will be right behind the front edge of the radiator shroud. 

I expanded it to include a second 4FJ fuse box (same as original) which feeds the lamps as well as two accessory lines for a Butler Flexible map light & power plug (Stanpart cigar lighter). The box will be mounted next to the original box and get its feed from the A & A1 tabs of the Voltage Regulator. This changes the routing of those two wires so that they do not have to be part of the 'spaghetti' behind the dash but will retain their original source. The switches and power plug will be mounted on the passenger side dash support next to and on either side of the ashtray. 

I have ordered the wire - so once it is all connected I'll post a couple more images on photobucket.  Also on PB is an image of the switch panel and a materials list (I think I listed everything).

Thanks to all for their advice, concerns, questions, and help on this. Hopefully, the diagram and list will be helpful to others who might be contemplating this task/upgrade. 

Carl
TS81802LO

From sportycars at britishcarweek.org  Sun Nov 28 15:40:32 2010
From: sportycars at britishcarweek.org (sportycars at britishcarweek.org)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 17:40:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Accurate Green Color Samples?
Message-ID: <2C35968F7B364A9E9890404AB524A050@grandb59e83be9>

Hello listers,

I'm in the early stages of a 1964 Spitfire 4 restoration project, and doing some research of green colors. I'm interested in Conifer Green (25) that was used for that year, but there seems to be a wide variety of color variations (found on the Internet) under that name. I'm thinking I may need to stop by my local automotive paint shop and have them mix a small quantity to see what they come up with, and then decide whether I like it or not. 

Do any of you who have already been down this road know of any accurate color samples available? Any paint suppliers that have a correct formula?

The Conifer color sample found at  http://www.triumphspitfire1500.co.uk/colours/  doesn't match others I have found elsewhere.  

Thanks for your help,

Scott Helms
 

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Nov 28 17:09:54 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (spitlist at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 16:09:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] Accurate Green Color Samples?
In-Reply-To: <2C35968F7B364A9E9890404AB524A050@grandb59e83be9>
Message-ID: <20101128190954.PFVSA.198198.imail@eastrmwml34>

I have the Mix codes at home.  When I get back from Thanksgiving in CA, I can send them to you.

Joe
---- sportycars at britishcarweek.org wrote: 
> Hello listers,
> 
> I'm in the early stages of a 1964 Spitfire 4 restoration project, and doing some research of green colors. I'm interested in Conifer Green (25) that was used for that year, but there seems to be a wide variety of color variations (found on the Internet) under that name. I'm thinking I may need to stop by my local automotive paint shop and have them mix a small quantity to see what they come up with, and then decide whether I like it or not. 
> 
> Do any of you who have already been down this road know of any accurate color samples available? Any paint suppliers that have a correct formula?
> 
> The Conifer color sample found at  http://www.triumphspitfire1500.co.uk/colours/  doesn't match others I have found elsewhere.  
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Scott Helms
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
> 


From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Nov 28 22:30:59 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 21:30:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Top Gear
Message-ID: <576153.18917.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     My family's favorite TV show is Top Gear. So, tonight the TV guide shows it on the History Channel instead of the usual BBCA. So we turn it on and it has an American driving an Aston and none of the usual guys (Jeremy, Richard and James). My kids booed it down after about 5 minutes. Watching the show was like an alternate universe. What was this other Top Gear? It sucked.

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net  Sun Nov 28 22:38:26 2010
From: lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net (LARRY C GRIFFIN)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 00:38:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tom O'Malley
Message-ID: <E79D3F09C8A54DC49E05357F347283D9@HomePC>

Many of the old timers will remember Tom O'Malley who was very active on the British Car and Spitfire lists until 2003. His Spitfire wiring diagrams are listed on the Spitfire & GT6 Magazine web site. Tom had a wonderful sense of humor and was an inspiration to other enthusiasts. I had the good fortune to meet him around ten years ago after he invited me to stop by his house in Southbridge, MA on the way to taking my daughter to college in Boston. I was amazed at the quality of work, including welding and painting, he had done on his Spitfire in a Harbor Freight portable garage! I only met Tom once, but he was definitely one of the good guys and one of those people who seemed like a life-long friend when you met him.

I am very sad to say that I just learned that Tom passed away after an illness on March 9, 2008. His obituary can be found at http://www.sansoucyfuneral.com/sitemaker/sites/Sansou1/obit.cgi?user=832_TOMalley102 . I do not believe this has been posted to the listserves before, but I wanted all to know of his passing. 

-Larry Griffin

 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov 28 23:41:37 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 22:41:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] Top Gear
In-Reply-To: <576153.18917.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <576153.18917.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <022501cb8f90$79151b00$0301a8c0@randall>

That would be Top Gear USA then.  Not my favorite either, it's like the
folks at History Channel simply don't understand the humor in Top Gear.
These guys seem like they are following the same script, but it all falls
flat somehow.

Anyway, you should still be able to find the original Top Gear on BBC-A.
And if enough people vote with their fingers, HC will probably drop their
knockoff series.

-- Randall  


From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Nov 29 06:10:56 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 08:10:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Top Gear
In-Reply-To: <576153.18917.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <576153.18917.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CD5DDDFE3E7184-1D98-12AEB@webmail-m079.sysops.aol.com>


 


     My family's favorite TV show is Top Gear. So, tonight the TV guide shows it 

on the History Channel instead of the usual BBCA. So we turn it on and it has an 

American driving an Aston and none of the usual guys (Jeremy, Richard and 

James). My kids booed it down after about 5 minutes. Watching the show was like 

an alternate universe. What was this other Top Gear? It sucked.



 

It's like when they move "Who's Line is it Anyway" to Hollywood and replaced Clive Anderson with Drew Cary.  I have nothing against Drew Cary but he's no Clive Anderson.

I saw last week's episode and it has the same irreverent attitude but without Jeremy Clark it just isn't the same.

I guess not everybody appreciates an English accent the way we do.

Dave

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Mon Nov 29 06:47:29 2010
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 08:47:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Top Gear
In-Reply-To: <576153.18917.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <576153.18917.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003801cb8fcb$f76ba0b0$e642e210$@net>

YEP!!

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 12:31 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Top Gear

     My family's favorite TV show is Top Gear. So, tonight the TV guide
shows it on the History Channel instead of the usual BBCA. So we turn it on
and it has an American driving an Aston and none of the usual guys (Jeremy,
Richard and James). My kids booed it down after about 5 minutes. Watching
the show was like an alternate universe. What was this other Top Gear? It
sucked.

     -Bill in Tehachapi
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net



From jdabars at att.net  Mon Nov 29 13:11:26 2010
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 12:11:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: Triumph colours
Message-ID: <56138.13607.qm@web83702.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

THIS tRIUMPH COLOUR CHART MAY??BE OF HELP.
?
John, Indianapolis, Indiana, USA


Subject: Triumph colours

Click on this
?
?
http://www.triumphspitfire1500.co.uk/colours/spitfire-colours-interactive.htm 

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Mon Nov 29 13:35:16 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 15:35:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Top Gear
Message-ID: <000001cb9004$f25644c0$d702ce40$@net>

  I, too, was very disappointed, both in the quality of the show and the
fact that 

it was heavily advertised as being "Top Gear" but no mention was made of the
fact 

that it wasn't the original BBC series.  I'd rather see re-runs of the BBC
show than

that crap. I'll not be tuning in again. 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U  

 


From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Mon Nov 29 16:32:16 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 18:32:16 EST
Subject: [TR] Paint Code 25
Message-ID: <17da7.35da1dab.3a259200@aol.com>

Standard-Triumph called Paint Code 25 "Conifer Green" when used on early 
Spitfires, and "Triumph Racing Green" on TR4A's.   DuPont has it, and 
Sherwin-Williams, probably others, too. It may be necessary to ask for a Standard 
listing, rather than Triumph, at your local paint store.   I have seen it on 
an early Spitfire and consider it beautiful.   That car had a factory hardtop 
painted the same color.
George Haynes

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Mon Nov 29 20:39:37 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 19:39:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] Top Gear
In-Reply-To: <000001cb9004$f25644c0$d702ce40$@net>
References: <000001cb9004$f25644c0$d702ce40$@net>
Message-ID: <000001cb9040$371c2850$a55478f0$@rr.com>

Hmmm ... I tuned into History On Demand at halftime to watch episode #1.
Couldn't get through half of it.

I think I lost it with dialog like "Driving a Viper is pretty tricky" and
"listen to this V-10 hum". No talk of CC's, zero to 1000 in 2.4 seconds, no
comedy, no sexy stuff, nothing exciting. The audience looked bored. Buzz
Aldren was the only bright spot, too bad the Jeremy clone screwed that up.

A bunch of clones, and not very good ones. And they've done 10 shows
already. The photography was pretty good though. Maybe I'll watch it next
time, turn the sound off, and listen to a little Van Halen.

I wonder what the British think of the American version?

Johnnie


>   I, too, was very disappointed, both in the quality of the show and
> the
> fact that
> 
> it was heavily advertised as being "Top Gear" but no mention was made
> of the
> fact
> 
> that it wasn't the original BBC series.  I'd rather see re-runs of the
> BBC
> show than
> 
> that crap. I'll not be tuning in again.
> 
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Mon Nov 29 21:23:10 2010
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 23:23:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] Top Gear
In-Reply-To: <000001cb9040$371c2850$a55478f0$@rr.com>
References: <000001cb9004$f25644c0$d702ce40$@net>
	<000001cb9040$371c2850$a55478f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <00b001cb9046$4db3ca90$e91b5fb0$@com>

I attended the premier showing of several segments and introduction to the
stars of the American Top Gear at the LV Hilton Wednesday evening during
SEMA in Las Vegas early November. My buddy fell asleep, neither of us found
it compelling. We did get free soda, popcorn and a Tee-Shirt though.

Buzz wasn't there, that would have been cool!

The Pawn Star guys were there somewhere but didn't go on stage.
Hey, did you see the NOS Cobra bare aluminum Cobra body someone brought
them, abandoned in a storage unit?
There's a story there for sure!

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new
owner
"Reality, it's not what you think."


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov 30 05:33:26 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 07:33:26 EST
Subject: [TR] Top Gear
Message-ID: <18da0d.3a2a41ea.3a264916@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/29/2010 9:39:50 PM Central Standard Time, 
pdonnel1 at san.rr.com writes: 
> I think I lost it with dialog like "Driving a Viper is pretty tricky" and
> "listen to this V-10 hum". No talk of CC's, zero to 1000 in 2.4 seconds, 
> no
> comedy, no sexy stuff, nothing exciting. The audience looked bored. Buzz
> Aldren was the only bright spot, too bad the Jeremy clone screwed that up.
> 


But that was the key to the original series (UK) success.  They dropped the 
traditional car review aspect of it in favour of the off-the-wall antics of 
Jeremy, Richard and James.

Besides, had you stayed tuned instead of returning to the football game 
(talk about a waste of time) you would have seen the three do standing miles in 
three different Maserati's.  Three different cars, three opinions why each 
was the best.  Typical scripted banter albeit, but there's you zero to 175 
talk you were missing.

And the Stig took all three of them around the track.  None was a fast 
around the track as the Viper (which cost about 1/3 as much)

Dave

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov 30 06:47:29 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 05:47:29 -0800
Subject: [TR] Top Gear
In-Reply-To: <18da0d.3a2a41ea.3a264916@cs.com>
References: <18da0d.3a2a41ea.3a264916@cs.com>
Message-ID: <038c01cb9095$21901a50$0301a8c0@randall>

> Typical scripted banter albeit, 

But that's just what it felt like, a script written and approved by a
committee.  Totally lacking the hilarious spark of irreverent insanity that
makes the original series fun.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RDx7QbNtIk

Not sure which sequence I laughed harder at, the "Driving to work in a
Post-Apocalyptic World" or the "How to keep racing interesting in a Post
Apocalyptic World".  Or was it the "MOT test in a Post-Apocalyptic World", a
clear takeoff on Robot Wars but with remote control full size cars.

"You might think this resembles a scene from Mad Max Beyond Thunderdrome.
But it can't because we've not seen that particular movie."

-- Randall  


From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Tue Nov 30 07:52:48 2010
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 09:52:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Top Gear
In-Reply-To: <18da0d.3a2a41ea.3a264916@cs.com>
References: <18da0d.3a2a41ea.3a264916@cs.com>
Message-ID: <A1C7899908174EA0A69390D49B9B3190@Engineering>

I think that is basically the point, It's the Characters,(or lack thereof)
that made me change the channel after about 35 seconds. Piggybacking off of 
A BBC show like Antique Roadshow may have worked. Another Top Gear Show
isn't enjoyable for me to watch, although I didn't change to Football. The
BBC version is over the top with their foolishness and stunt drivers doing
Clarkson's drifting for effect, but it's entertaining regardless. I don't
need to watch 3 Ham's or the Stig to find out what Car's will come out on
top in X-Cross, Road Circuit etc. when all the data available speaks for
itself without putting oneself through that load of rubbish.

Cheers,
Wayne
Douglas,MA

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 7:33 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Top Gear

In a message dated 11/29/2010 9:39:50 PM Central Standard Time, 
pdonnel1 at san.rr.com writes: 
> I think I lost it with dialog like "Driving a Viper is pretty tricky" and
> "listen to this V-10 hum". No talk of CC's, zero to 1000 in 2.4 seconds, 
> no
> comedy, no sexy stuff, nothing exciting. The audience looked bored. Buzz
> Aldren was the only bright spot, too bad the Jeremy clone screwed that up.
> 


But that was the key to the original series (UK) success.  They dropped the 
traditional car review aspect of it in favour of the off-the-wall antics of 
Jeremy, Richard and James.

Besides, had you stayed tuned instead of returning to the football game 
(talk about a waste of time) you would have seen the three do standing miles
in 
three different Maserati's.  Three different cars, three opinions why each 
was the best.  Typical scripted banter albeit, but there's you zero to 175 
talk you were missing.

And the Stig took all three of them around the track.  None was a fast 
around the track as the Viper (which cost about 1/3 as much)

Dave
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com





=======
Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
(Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16410)
http://www.pctools.com/
=======





=======
Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
(Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16410)
http://www.pctools.com/
=======

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Nov 30 09:53:39 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 08:53:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Top Gear Reliant Robin
Message-ID: <209781.20102.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     This 13 minute episode of Top Gear is one of the funniest things I have ever seen.

http://www.wimp.com/reliantrobin

     
     -Bill in Tehachapi



From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Nov 30 09:56:29 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 08:56:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Who Drove A Sidescreen TR to Work on Monday?
Message-ID: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I drove my daily driver TR3A to work on Monday on icy roads (following a snowstorm) in 21 degree F temps. Did anyone else drive a sidescreen TR to work in subfreezing temperatures on Monday? Am I the last believer?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Nov 30 09:57:55 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 10:57:55 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: BPNW Product and Shipping Specials
Message-ID: <407768516.1185368.1291136275887.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

I believe it was Teri Ann that suggested BPNW.  see their response below.


Nov 30, 2010 04:40:24 PM, bpnw6354 at bpnorthwest.com wrote:

Carl,

Sorry for the delay in response.  Unfortunately we do not carry wiring.  Anything else please let us know.  Thanks and have a good week!!

Regards,
Alicia
British Parts Northwest
www.bpnorthwest.com
Phone (503)864-2001
FAX (503)864-2081


From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Nov 30 10:18:04 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 10:18:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Who Drove A Sidescreen TR to Work on Monday?
In-Reply-To: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BDA6E770-CEF9-44FC-8163-184D3DE2BF36@flash.net>

Not sure " Believer" is the correct adjective.

Mobile Bill

On Nov 30, 2010, at 9:56 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

>     I drove my daily driver TR3A to work on Monday on icy roads (following a snowstorm) in 21 degree F temps. Did anyone else drive a sidescreen TR to work in subfreezing temperatures on Monday? Am I the last believer?
> 
>     -Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 

From tom628 at verizon.net  Tue Nov 30 10:22:12 2010
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 12:22:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Who Drove A Sidescreen TR to Work on Monday?
References: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <79583DFAC5464019B95B04FAAE20DE76@Toms>

No ice yet here in PA Bill, but back in the day I was driving my daily TR4 
home for lunch when a huge icicle fell from the top of Everest and punched 
right thru my soft top and hit the trans tunnel next to my hip.
I'm sure it would have at least knocked me senseless. I wore my motorcycle 
helmet back to work.

Stay safe.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 11:56 AM
Subject: [TR] Who Drove A Sidescreen TR to Work on Monday?


>     I drove my daily driver TR3A to work on Monday on icy roads (following 
> a snowstorm) in 21 degree F temps. Did anyone else drive a sidescreen TR 
> to work in subfreezing temperatures on Monday? Am I the last believer?
>
>     -Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net
> 


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Nov 30 10:56:52 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 10:56:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Who Drove A Sidescreen TR to Work on Monday?
In-Reply-To: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimf9qOVfA7vawQjDKuO+HbC6WnpmT5yaOO37uqz@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/30/10, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:
>      I drove my daily driver TR3A to work on Monday...

I'll go to great lengths to demostrate my fondness for these cars...
but I draw the line at getting a job.

I did drive in 20.5 temps today but definitely not to work.

Geo

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Nov 30 12:00:47 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 11:00:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Issues
Message-ID: <504328.18101.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     The left turn signal blinker on my TR3A works fine. The right signal blinks fast with both lamps working (front and rear). I have a beeper for an indicator and it doesn't make any noises. It is like it blinks so quickly and/or weakly that it doesn't do the indicator light or beeper. I'll be troubleshooting this in the next couple of nights. Which should I be looking for, a short or a bad ground?
     Interestingly enough, last time I had trouble with this (two summers ago) it was my flasher had failed for the right side only.
     TIA.

     Bill in Tehachapi

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Nov 30 12:36:13 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 12:36:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Who Drove A Sidescreen TR to Work on Monday?
In-Reply-To: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8E3FBCF8-1135-46E1-8CC9-B91D8BCD2821@comcast.net>

and one-handed too...impressive


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Nov 30, 2010, at 9:56 AM, William Brewer wrote:

>     I drove my daily driver TR3A to work on Monday on icy roads  
> (following a snowstorm) in 21 degree F temps. Did anyone else drive  
> a sidescreen TR to work in subfreezing temperatures on Monday? Am I  
> the last believer?
>
>     -Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net
>


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov 30 13:03:43 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 12:03:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Issues
In-Reply-To: <504328.18101.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <504328.18101.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0a9f01cb90c9$b2013180$16039480$@rr.com>

> Which should I be looking for, a short or a bad ground?

Could be either one, or neither.  Some flashers run faster for too little
current, some run faster for too much.

You're just looking for something that makes one side draw more current than
the other.  This could include things like a bulb installed wrong, lamp
holder wired wrong, short between the terminals at a lamp (does anything odd
happen with either brake lights or tail lights on?), etc.

ISTR Jonmac even reported tracing his similar problem to a wire that was
corroded inside the insulation and thus presenting a higher resistance.

-- Randall 


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov 30 13:09:48 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 12:09:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] Who Drove A Sidescreen TR to Work on Monday?
In-Reply-To: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0aa001cb90ca$8b274030$a175c090$@rr.com>

I drove mine to work today, does that count?

Not quite cold enough to snow here (although I understand we touched
freezing last night).  OTOH, I have no top, no sidecurtains, no heater, not
even the seals inside the front fenders, so maybe we aren't that far apart!

Apparently a mistake too, as the throttle is still sticking (although not as
bad as before) and a Bad Noise started just as I pulled into the parking
lot.  I may have to do a roadside tech session before I can go home, and I
promised the wife I'd be home before six (so she didn't have to hire a
babysitter).

-- Randall 


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Nov 30 13:28:54 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 14:28:54 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: BPNW Product and Shipping Specials
Message-ID: <1745092879.1202326.1291148934903.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

Duh.....   sorry about that folks.

britpac at aol.com 

Carl



Nov 30, 2010 05:54:14 PM, ahwahneetr at gmail.com wrote:

On 11/30/10, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:
> I believe it was Teri Ann that suggested BPNW. see their response below.

Wrong company, not BPNW, British Pacific....

"Carl, I don't know what you consider to be local but British Pacific
tries to keep a stock of British striped wiring which they sell by the

From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 30 14:20:28 2010
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 16:20:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Who Drove A Sidescreen TR to Work on Monday?
In-Reply-To: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikaCOjkd4GLzmUeFgWFn9e8d2-=3+hpSbt4fMUg@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 11:56 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>wrote:

>     I drove my daily driver TR3A to work on Monday on icy roads (following
> a snowstorm) in 21 degree F temps. Did anyone else drive a sidescreen TR to
> work in subfreezing temperatures on Monday? Am I the last believer?
>
Major flaws in plan: No sidescreen TR (must get one someday), no job (see
previous), no icy roads/below freezing/snowstorm (be patient, it's still
early)

--Phil Barnes, '71 TR6 since 1977
--Keeneyville, PA

From paigetheman at gmail.com  Tue Nov 30 14:35:48 2010
From: paigetheman at gmail.com (D Paige)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 13:35:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: BPNW Product and Shipping Specials
In-Reply-To: <1745092879.1202326.1291148934903.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
Message-ID: <4cf56e4c.0645960a.59fe.6f1f@mx.google.com>

Best bet fro Wiring though not local will be http://www.britishwiring.com/

Quick delivery, reasonable prices, high quality.

Deano

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of cfmtr3a at verizon.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 12:29 PM
To: ahwahneetr at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: Re: BPNW Product and Shipping Specials

Duh.....   sorry about that folks.

britpac at aol.com 

Carl



Nov 30, 2010 05:54:14 PM, ahwahneetr at gmail.com wrote:

On 11/30/10, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:
> I believe it was Teri Ann that suggested BPNW. see their response below.

Wrong company, not BPNW, British Pacific....

"Carl, I don't know what you consider to be local but British Pacific
tries to keep a stock of British striped wiring which they sell by the
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/paigetheman at gmail.com


From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Nov 30 14:50:02 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 14:50:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: BPNW Product and Shipping Specials
In-Reply-To: <407768516.1185368.1291136275887.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
References: <407768516.1185368.1291136275887.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>
Message-ID: <4CF5718A.8090906@gmail.com>

On 11/30/10 9:57 AM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:
> I believe it was Teri Ann that suggested BPNW.
>    
Not me.  I've never purchased anything from them and know very little 
about them.

I suggested British Pacific as a source of wire sold by the foot, 
various Lucas wire connectors, grommets & some components such as fuse 
boxes.

Teriann (all one word)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Nov 30 16:08:58 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 23:08:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Who Drove A Sidescreen TR to Work on Monday?
In-Reply-To: <693577.5364.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <189622366.2013847.1291158538072.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>


>     I drove my daily driver TR3A to work on Monday on icy roads (following a snowstorm) in 21 degree F temps. Did anyone else drive a sidescreen TR to >work in subfreezing temperatures on Monday? Am I the last believer?

Alas, I would be with you, except I haven't given a proper test drive for my headgasket replacement.  Don't dare do it when it counts on my being there.  But the season isn't over until it snows!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667
New Hampshire

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 30 17:05:58 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 16:05:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Top Gear Reliant Robin
In-Reply-To: <209781.20102.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <209781.20102.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <975923.37412.qm@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Bill
its not half as funny as you feel and look driving one.
don't ask me how i know
Frank




________________________________
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, November 30, 2010 8:53:39 AM
Subject: [TR] Top Gear Reliant Robin

? ? This 13 minute episode of Top Gear is one of the funniest things I have ever 
seen.

http://www.wimp.com/reliantrobin

? ? 
? ? -Bill in Tehachapi


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Tue Nov 30 17:12:11 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 19:12:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Top Gear Reliant Robin
Message-ID: <AANLkTik2vY3aCwQmq31xBqTYipKR0=Wy339es2nk3VcE@mail.gmail.com>

This 13 minute episode of Top Gear is one of the funniest things I have ever
seen.

http://www.wimp.com/reliantrobin

-------------------
Bill - that is a funny clip, but they were not unusual to see when I was
young, in the UK. I hitched a lift in one, once (1976), into Wales, driven
by a fireman! The Wheelie Bin on my driveway today is more robust that that
Robin seemed then. As mentioned in the clip, the market for these
contraptions were men without a full driving licence. 'Full' as in, for a
CAR. A mere motorcycle licence, gained on a moped (another item of ridicule)
would suffice, then. Brits are very specific on what licences cover which
cars. To this day, take a test in a car with an automatic gearbox, and that
is all you may drive. No stick (manual) for you laddie!

While the Robin was, and is, a figure of fun, these three-wheelers were
another matter entirely: *http://tinyurl.com/322dov8*

... and it look like Morgan is to relaunch them ...

http://www.morgan-motor.co.uk/sales/three_wheeler/three_wheeler.html

Brian in Valley Forge

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Nov 30 18:24:47 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 01:24:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Who Drove A Sidescreen TR to Work on Monday?
In-Reply-To: <189622366.2013847.1291158538072.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1672367333.2193573.1291166687446.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



I'm certain that none of the retirees on this list did! 



Ed Woods 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Nov 30 18:33:14 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 01:33:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] Top Gear Reliant Robin
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik2vY3aCwQmq31xBqTYipKR0=Wy339es2nk3VcE@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTik2vY3aCwQmq31xBqTYipKR0=Wy339es2nk3VcE@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529CE526C@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Speaking of mopeds, my fellow brits and former brits will remember this fondly

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKnoffPV8m0

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Jones
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 7:12 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Top Gear Reliant Robin

This 13 minute episode of Top Gear is one of the funniest things I have ever seen.

http://www.wimp.com/reliantrobin

-------------------
Bill - that is a funny clip, but they were not unusual to see when I was young, in the UK. I hitched a lift in one, once (1976), into Wales, driven by a fireman! The Wheelie Bin on my driveway today is more robust that that Robin seemed then. As mentioned in the clip, the market for these contraptions were men without a full driving licence. 'Full' as in, for a CAR. A mere motorcycle licence, gained on a moped (another item of ridicule) would suffice, then. Brits are very specific on what licences cover which cars. To this day, take a test in a car with an automatic gearbox, and that is all you may drive. No stick (manual) for you laddie!

While the Robin was, and is, a figure of fun, these three-wheelers were another matter entirely: *http://tinyurl.com/322dov8*

... and it look like Morgan is to relaunch them ...

http://www.morgan-motor.co.uk/sales/three_wheeler/three_wheeler.html

Brian in Valley Forge