From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sat May  1 07:15:30 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 08:15:30 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumph TR6 interior question
Message-ID: <9651958.616162.1272719730610.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>

Mine are not.  Now that I look again, I see that one label has RF on it, so if that means "right front" is it for the drivers seat or passenger? 

Craig

On Apr 30, 2010, Foster, Stan (HP IT) <stan.foster at hp.com> wrote: 

Craig, I have two new unopened TRF seat foam kits and they are clearly marked
LH and RH on the label attached to each of the clear plastic wrappers.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:04 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Triumph TR6 interior question

To the list,

I am finally in receipt of all the interior for my 1972 Triumph TR6 from TRF:

FB20903/NTN - B Panel kit
SRK62/NTN - Seat kit
SFK62 - Seat foam kit

One concern I have is that I am under the impression that the seat kit and the
foam kit are each specific to the drivers and passengers side.B I spoke with
someone at TRF and he stated that the foam kit definitly was left and right
but did not sound very confident.

So, for the record, can anyone advise me on this? Are they driver and
passenger specific, and if so, how can I tell?

I would like to mark them so they are labled driver and passenger before I
store them away for a future project.

Thanks in advance.

Craig H. Nicholls
1972 Triumph TR6

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  1 07:51:55 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 06:51:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph TR6 interior question
In-Reply-To: <9651958.616162.1272719730610.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <9651958.616162.1272719730610.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <1beb01cae935$76601fb0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Mine are not.  Now that I look again, I see that one label 
> has RF on it, so if that means "right front" is it for the 
> drivers seat or passenger? 

Well, is your driver's seat on the left or right ?  They came both ways, you
know.

Randall

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat May  1 11:13:46 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 13:13:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph TR6 interior question
In-Reply-To: <9651958.616162.1272719730610.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <9651958.616162.1272719730610.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <o2u3b0049461005011013y129a29f8le8b6bc25122dbe3@mail.gmail.com>

On 5/1/10, thenicholls at verizon.net <thenicholls at verizon.net> wrote:
> Mine are not.  Now that I look again, I see that one label has RF on it, so
> if that means "right front" is it for the drivers seat or passenger?

I suppose if it is for the right front then it wouldn't really matter
which side the steering wheel happens to be on.

Geo

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Sat May  1 12:18:57 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 14:18:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
Message-ID: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>

I searched through the factory service manual and it doesn't cover
replacing the rear pinion seal.  It talks about rebuilding the entire
diff but not replacement of the seal.

Is there anything special that has to be done to replace the seal or
can I just remove the nut and flange, replace the seal, reinstall
flange and then torque the nut?

Thanks!

Brad
1963 TR4

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat May  1 12:45:48 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 12:45:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4BDC76DC.8070800@bradakis.com>

> Is there anything special that has to be done to replace the seal or
> can I just remove the nut and flange, replace the seal, reinstall
> flange and then torque the nut?
>   

Yes.  Unlike the later TR6s with the one-time collapsible spacer, removing
and replacing the flange will not affect the mesh of the gears.

mjb.

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sat May  1 12:45:37 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 14:45:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4BDC76D1.2080500@blacksburg.net>

On 5/1/2010 2:18 PM, Brad Kahler wrote:
> I searched through the factory service manual and it doesn't cover
> replacing the rear pinion seal.  It talks about rebuilding the entire
> diff but not replacement of the seal.
>
> Is there anything special that has to be done to replace the seal or
> can I just remove the nut and flange, replace the seal, reinstall
> flange and then torque the nut?
Brad, replacing the seal isn't a difficult job, just kinda fiddly.  Or 
PITA fiddly if the axle is in the car.  The only critical part is upon 
reassembly, ensuring that the pinion preload is w/i spec.  I don't know 
how accurate this method is, but it's better than nothing: I've read 
that counting the number of flats on the pinion nut as you remove it is 
a good way to establish the pinion preload upon reassembly.

WRT seal removal, try threading some large (#10 or so) sheet metal 
screws into opposite sides of the seal, then lever it out or use a slide 
hammer.

If the axle is in the car, may the Force be with you.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  1 12:46:22 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 11:46:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1c4801cae95e$98bcad20$0301a8c0@randall>

> Is there anything special that has to be done to replace the seal or
> can I just remove the nut and flange, replace the seal, reinstall
> flange and then torque the nut?

Should be no problem on your TR4, Brad.  The collapsible spacer didn't come
in until later.

However, I would examine the sealing surface of the flange carefully.  If
you can feel the groove left by the old seal with your fingernail, I would
suggest a Speedi-sleeve.

Randall

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Sat May  1 12:55:28 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 20:55:28 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3F1F86124E104B929086757BAB78104D@Study>

Yes! The tricky bit is removing the old seal. Unless you have a very thin 
extractor you have to use a very small cold chisel to cut through the 
outside ring in two places then you can pull the old seal out around the 
pinion shaft with suitable pliers.
The new one just bangs in, making sure it is square.

David Brister
1967 TR4A 


--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 7228 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

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From zoboherald at aol.com  Sat May  1 13:04:13 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 15:04:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <1c4801cae95e$98bcad20$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
	<1c4801cae95e$98bcad20$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <8CCB77839117F0F-6A98-13BF0@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>


> Is there anything special that has to be done to replace the seal or
> can I just remove the nut and flange, replace the seal, reinstall
> flange and then torque the nut?

Should be no problem on your TR4, Brad.  The collapsible spacer didn't come
in until later.

However, I would examine the sealing surface of the flange carefully.  If
you can feel the groove left by the old seal with your fingernail, I would
suggest a Speedi-sleeve.

==AM==
And, if you're replacing the seal to address a leak, you might just quickly
check to make sure that
the vent for the diff. is clear. If it's clogged up with road grime, it can
cause enough pressure to
force your favorite gear lube out. OTOH, odds are it's the original seal and
is due regardless! :-)


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat May  1 14:40:59 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 13:40:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 open/closed radiator system
Message-ID: <785139.4249.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

was at a car show recently and saw a TR3 with one of those overflow tanks off
to the side of the radiator.
not sure if its called a open or closed system.
i
have a nice copper overflow tank from an mgb with a radiator cap on it
available.
so what are the advantages and disadvantages?
will the overflow
have to be higher than the fill neck of the standard radiator. the one i saw
was not.
is their anything special about the installation? just add tubes and
match the psi of the 2 fill caps?

and while we are talking radiators, whats
the thoughts on advantages of a higher pressure radiator? it raises the
boiling point but not the operating temperature.

Frank

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat May  1 14:49:59 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 15:49:59 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 SS Brake hoses
Message-ID: <777066559.454083.1272746999992.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net>

Several places list Goodridge SS brake hoses for the TR3 - P/N STH0703-3P and for TR4 #704-3P.   Moss lists Goodridge SS hoses but only one part number for both 3 & 4.   Does anyone know if there is in fact a difference between the two or is it a marketing/catalog issue?

Thanks
Carl

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Sat May  1 16:08:56 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 18:08:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <4BDC76D1.2080500@blacksburg.net>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
	<4BDC76D1.2080500@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <o2rf99bbf591005011508kb39db188w36c90071b1eb0560@mail.gmail.com>

Unfortunately the axle is in the car and I have no plans on taking it
out.  I've got a seal removal tool and if that doesn't work I'll try
screws and then dynamite :)

Thanks for the info on the preload.  Should be interesting trying to
keep track of turns coming off.

Brad


On Sat, May 1, 2010 at 2:45 PM, J.C. Hassall <jhassall at blacksburg.net> wrote:
> On 5/1/2010 2:18 PM, Brad Kahler wrote:
>>
>> I searched through the factory service manual and it doesn't cover
>> replacing the rear pinion seal.  It talks about rebuilding the entire
>> diff but not replacement of the seal.
>>
>> Is there anything special that has to be done to replace the seal or
>> can I just remove the nut and flange, replace the seal, reinstall
>> flange and then torque the nut?
>
> Brad, replacing the seal isn't a difficult job, just kinda fiddly.  Or PITA
> fiddly if the axle is in the car.  The only critical part is upon
> reassembly, ensuring that the pinion preload is w/i spec.  I don't know how
> accurate this method is, but it's better than nothing: I've read that
> counting the number of flats on the pinion nut as you remove it is a good
> way to establish the pinion preload upon reassembly.
>
> WRT seal removal, try threading some large (#10 or so) sheet metal screws
> into opposite sides of the seal, then lever it out or use a slide hammer.
>
> If the axle is in the car, may the Force be with you.
>
> jim
>
> --
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sat May  1 16:13:52 2010
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 18:13:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <1c4801cae95e$98bcad20$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
	<1c4801cae95e$98bcad20$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <l2tf99bbf591005011513y9f5b081fie95db114dc4f131@mail.gmail.com>

Just noticed that Moss lists the speedi sleeve in their catalog.  Not
cheap at $46.  Anyone know what the actual speedi sleep part number
is?

Thanks!

Brad


On Sat, May 1, 2010 at 2:46 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> Is there anything special that has to be done to replace the seal or
>> can I just remove the nut and flange, replace the seal, reinstall
>> flange and then torque the nut?
>
> Should be no problem on your TR4, Brad.  The collapsible spacer didn't come
> in until later.
>
> However, I would examine the sealing surface of the flange carefully.  If
> you can feel the groove left by the old seal with your fingernail, I would
> suggest a Speedi-sleeve.
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  1 16:22:00 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 15:22:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 SS Brake hoses
In-Reply-To: <777066559.454083.1272746999992.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <777066559.454083.1272746999992.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <1ce001cae97c$b84d7160$0301a8c0@randall>

> Several places list Goodridge SS brake hoses for the TR3 - 
> P/N STH0703-3P and for TR4 #704-3P.   Moss lists Goodridge SS 
> hoses but only one part number for both 3 & 4.   Does anyone 
> know if there is in fact a difference between the two or is 
> it a marketing/catalog issue?

Based on an old Moss catalog, apparently one difference is that the later
front lines are 1.5" longer than the earlier ones.  The change went with the
change in calipers & rotor size; which confusingly enough overlapped TR3B
and early TR4.  (That is, some early TR4 had the early 11" setup, while TCF
series TR3B had the later 10-3/4" setup.)  

I'm guessing that means the later lines can be used on the earlier cars; but
it will be more difficult to position the line so it does not rub under any
circumstances.  I know mine have to be twisted "just so" to keep them from
rubbing on either the tire or the ball joint at one extreme or another.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  1 16:41:31 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 15:41:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 open/closed radiator system
In-Reply-To: <785139.4249.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <785139.4249.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1cf001cae97f$72995410$0301a8c0@randall>

> so what are the advantages and disadvantages?

The main advantage, IMO is that it keeps the radiator completely full
instead of having air space at the top.  That increases cooling slightly,
but more importantly helps keep air from getting mixed with the coolant.
Without it, I always see a little bit of foam on top, which says to me that
air is getting trapped and carried through the system.  And obviously air is
not as good a coolant as water.

> will the overflow
> have to be higher than the fill neck of the standard 
> radiator.

The optimum configuration is supposed to be the overflow roughly parallel
with the top of the radiator.  However, most later Triumphs have the bottle
down low, so it must work reasonably well that way.

> is their anything special about the installation? just add tubes and
> match the psi of the 2 fill caps?

Normally, if the bottle is pressurized (as it appears your MG bottle is),
the cap on the radiator is a dummy cap, permanently open to the tube to the
bottle.  But I don't see any reason it wouldn't work with a pressure cap in
both places.  Don't forget that the tube from radiator to bottle now has to
handle pressure (use reinforced tubing rather than standard overflow
tubing).

However for this to work, the radiator cap needs to seal air-tight to the
uppermost part of the neck, which the stock TR3 cap does not.  Perhaps some
of the replacements do though.  Look for a rubber ring (instead of brass)
inside the outer lip of the cap.  I had my radiator modified with a shorter
neck, so I can use standard caps instead of the TR3-specific one.  Cost was
less than $20 (but they were doing other work on the radiator at the same
time).

> and while we are talking radiators, whats
> the thoughts on advantages of a higher pressure radiator? it 
> raises the
> boiling point but not the operating temperature.

Increase in boiling point is the main advantage, IMO.  Gives you a larger
margin under conditions where the coolant temperature goes up (like a sudden
stop after driving at speed).  However, at least in theory, the higher
pressure also improves heat transfer to/from the coolant, which may improve
cooling slightly.  I've never really been able to tell the difference
myself.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  1 16:54:06 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 15:54:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <l2tf99bbf591005011513y9f5b081fie95db114dc4f131@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com><1c4801cae95e$98bcad20$0301a8c0@randall>
	<l2tf99bbf591005011513y9f5b081fie95db114dc4f131@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1cf101cae981$34474760$0301a8c0@randall>

> Just noticed that Moss lists the speedi sleeve in their catalog.  Not
> cheap at $46.  Anyone know what the actual speedi sleep part number
> is?

I don't, although it might be on their web site:
http://www.skf.com

However, my local NAPA had a complete catalog with applications including
Triumphs.  Or, if you care to measure, I do have a catalog with dimensions
for the available sleeves.

BTW, ISTR I paid something like $35 @ NAPA, both for a sleeve for the front
engine pulley on my TR3A, and the damper on the Stag.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  1 16:56:13 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 15:56:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <o2rf99bbf591005011508kb39db188w36c90071b1eb0560@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com><4BDC76D1.2080500@blacksburg.net>
	<o2rf99bbf591005011508kb39db188w36c90071b1eb0560@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1cf201cae981$80142fa0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Thanks for the info on the preload.  Should be interesting trying to
> keep track of turns coming off.

Counting flats is for when you have the collapsible spacer.  With the early,
fixed spacer, you just torque the nut to spec; the bearing clearance is set
by shims inside the unit.

Randall

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat May  1 17:17:01 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 19:17:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <o2rf99bbf591005011508kb39db188w36c90071b1eb0560@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
	<4BDC76D1.2080500@blacksburg.net>
	<o2rf99bbf591005011508kb39db188w36c90071b1eb0560@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <t2v3b0049461005011617n3a8085cbp67c797083fac0b4a@mail.gmail.com>

On 5/1/10, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:
> Unfortunately the axle is in the car and I have no plans on taking it
> out.  I've got a seal removal tool and if that doesn't work I'll try
> screws and then dynamite :)

That should work, I used the HF version and they came right out...

http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-35556.html

From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Sat May  1 18:16:32 2010
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 17:16:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <18551.8572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Hi Team,

I keep going through rotors like crazy and was thinking it would be
a good idea to have my distributor rebuilt as it has never been done. Any
recommendations from the list as to the best person to use would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Robert Rudolphi 
1974 TR6

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sat May  1 19:05:04 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 21:05:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <1cf201cae981$80142fa0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com><4BDC76D1.2080500@blacksburg.net>
	<o2rf99bbf591005011508kb39db188w36c90071b1eb0560@mail.gmail.com>
	<1cf201cae981$80142fa0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <4BDCCFC0.3030305@blacksburg.net>

On 5/1/2010 6:56 PM, Randall wrote:
>> Thanks for the info on the preload.  Should be interesting trying to
>> keep track of turns coming off.
>>      
>
> Counting flats is for when you have the collapsible spacer.  With the early,
> fixed spacer, you just torque the nut to spec; the bearing clearance is set
> by shims inside the unit.
>
> Randall
>    
Gads, you're absolutely right Randall, I had a brain cramp.  I remember 
going to great lengths to set the pinion preload when I rebuilt my diff, 
but it was out of the car and I'd completely replaced everything.

Step away from the keyboard, Hassall.

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat May  1 19:45:58 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 21:45:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <18551.8572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
	<18551.8572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CCB7B058ABF9F8-13F4-625F@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>

ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS!

I had one rebuilt for one race TR4 and need my TR3A done...and will have Jeff
do it.

advancedistributors.com










-----Original Message-----
From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, May 1, 2010 7:16 pm
Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt


Hi Team,
I keep going through rotors like crazy and was thinking it would be
 good idea to have my distributor rebuilt as it has never been done. Any
ecommendations from the list as to the best person to use would be greatly
ppreciated.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Robert Rudolphi
974 TR6
______________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sat May  1 21:11:48 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 23:11:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335AF@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Here is a new one for me:

Is a TR6 j-type tranmission supposed to have venting, or internal pressure?

I have a newly re-built j-type overdrive transmission on my 72 TR6. During
last season, I noticed that I had leaking oil dripping on the exhaust pipe
under the overdrive. I had thought it was a valve cover leak, but apparently
not. I have the cover off the transmission to deal with a u-joint replacement
(as well as nasty attack of Shipwright's Disease). So I took the car out for a
spin. Enjoyed the clouds of smoke from the POR burning off the header
extension pipe and then headed back home. I see now that the transmission is
weeping oil from the seals around the shifting rods which is then dribbling
down the side of the transmission and dripping on the pipe. It's not pouring,
but last year I was getting puddles under the car. I took a closer look after
the run and  I also see a oil bubbling from one of the gear detector switches
on top of the transmission case. To my mind bubbling = pressure. I don't think
just internal splashing would put out the amount of oil I have seen leaking
down the side of the unit.

I think the fellow who rebuilt the transmission and put in the nice unit from
Laycock Rebuilders used 80w90 gear oil. This I have been told is a no-no. I
have consequently refilled the unit with Valvoline 20w50 racing motor oil. If
it stops raining I will give it a run again and see if the problem is gone.

Is there a vent hole in the transmission somewhere that might be blocked up? I
don't recall on on the TR6 unit, but then I know the A-type better than the
J.

Certainly I used to use 20w50 in the a-type and did not have this leaking.
(Also had no overdrive due to slipping.)

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat May  1 21:31:39 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 22:31:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl dashboard
Message-ID: <B31F8C66A8BB496384644FAB202DFDE7@ranteer.local>

as the restoration from hell progress to the restoration from purgatory to the
restoration from ????  I am starting to resuscitate parts that I have had for
many years.  we pulled the dashboard out of storage today, which was on the
car for a brief while in one of the car's earlier pseudo incarnations.
anyway, its probably about 8 years ago when the vinyl was put on.  its now
kind of dingy and has some spots from an imperfect storage.

what's the best vinyl cleaner to use?  I obviously want to preserve the
original color, but I also want it clean.

thanks!

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sat May  1 21:52:49 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 22:52:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor  rebuilt
Message-ID: <7526927.627463.1272772369098.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>

I would agree with that, Jeff does a fantastic job.B  While he is doing the
rebuild, have him provide you a new distributor cap and rotor.  They were of
great quality and you won't keep eating up rotors.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

On May 1, 2010, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:

ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS!

I had one rebuilt for one race TR4 and need my TR3A done...and will have Jeff
do it.

advancedistributors.com










-----Original Message-----
From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, May 1, 2010 7:16 pm
Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt


Hi Team,
I keep going through rotors like crazy and was thinking it would be
good idea to have my distributor rebuilt as it has never been done. Any
ecommendations from the list as to the best person to use would be greatly
ppreciated.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Robert Rudolphi
974 TR6
______________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  1 22:19:43 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 21:19:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335AF@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335AF@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <004b01cae9ae$b1716360$0301a8c0@randall>

> Is a TR6 j-type tranmission supposed to have venting, or 
> internal pressure?

Well, both actually <G>

>  I see now that the 
> transmission is
> weeping oil from the seals around the shifting rods

A common problem even without blocked vents.  The seals being sold today do
not fit the cavities in the cover snugly. Herman mentioned machining spacers
from brass to fill the gap, but I was able to source some Teflon backing
rings that did the trick for me.

> I think the fellow who rebuilt the transmission and put in 
> the nice unit from
> Laycock Rebuilders used 80w90 gear oil. This I have been told 
> is a no-no.

Hard to go very wrong with the factory-recommended lubricant!

> Is there a vent hole in the transmission somewhere that might 
> be blocked up?

I believe there should be.  Not sure where it was on earlier gearboxes, but
by the time the J-type came in, it was on the top cover near the front RH
corner:
http://tinyurl.com/23kmev4

There is even a factory service bulletin about checking that hole, if the
rear seal is leaking.

> Certainly I used to use 20w50 in the a-type and did not have 
> this leaking.

A-types have a big vent in the OD body.  I don't believe the J-type does,
instead it relies on the gearbox vent.

Randall

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun May  2 04:45:46 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 06:45:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <8CCB7B058ABF9F8-13F4-625F@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>
References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net><18551.8572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<8CCB7B058ABF9F8-13F4-625F@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3064B4216B544321A12124551D1D08F4@BobPC>

Joe said it all........Jeff at Advance is the "only" place to have one 
rebuilt. All the guys in the 6-Pack Forum swear by him.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 9:45 PM
To: <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt

> ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS!
>
> I had one rebuilt for one race TR4 and need my TR3A done...and will have 
> Jeff
> do it.
>
> advancedistributors.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sat, May 1, 2010 7:16 pm
> Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
>
>
> Hi Team,
> I keep going through rotors like crazy and was thinking it would be
> good idea to have my distributor rebuilt as it has never been done. Any
> ecommendations from the list as to the best person to use would be greatly
> ppreciated.
> Thanks in advance for any assistance.
> Robert Rudolphi
> 974 TR6
> ______________________________________________
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From tr4driver at gmail.com  Sun May  2 06:13:20 2010
From: tr4driver at gmail.com (Kurtis)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 07:13:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <o2rf99bbf591005011508kb39db188w36c90071b1eb0560@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
	<4BDC76D1.2080500@blacksburg.net>
	<o2rf99bbf591005011508kb39db188w36c90071b1eb0560@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801cae9f0$db5f7710$921e6530$@com>

Brad,

I went through this a few years ago and had very good success by using a
small slide hammer to remove the old seal.  I screwed a couple of sheet
metal screws into the flange of the old seal and alternated attaching the
hammer to them.  It came right out with very light blows (which was all I
could manage due to the my awkward position under the car).

Good luck!

Kurt
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4 - CT19389L
1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250
www.vintagebritishcars.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
> Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 5:09 PM
> To: J.C. Hassall
> Cc: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
> 
> Unfortunately the axle is in the car and I have no plans on taking it
> out.  I've got a seal removal tool and if that doesn't work I'll try
> screws and then dynamite :)
> 
> Thanks for the info on the preload.  Should be interesting trying to
> keep track of turns coming off.
> 
> Brad

From tr4driver at gmail.com  Sun May  2 06:21:15 2010
From: tr4driver at gmail.com (Kurtis)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 07:21:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <3064B4216B544321A12124551D1D08F4@BobPC>
References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net><18551.8572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<8CCB7B058ABF9F8-13F4-625F@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>
	<3064B4216B544321A12124551D1D08F4@BobPC>
Message-ID: <000901cae9f1$f6728190$e35784b0$@com>

Another vote for Jeff at Advance.

Kurt
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4 - CT19389L
1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250
www.vintagebritishcars.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
> Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 5:46 AM
> To: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net;
> 6pack at autox.team.net; n197tr4 at cs.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
> 
> Joe said it all........Jeff at Advance is the "only" place to have one
> rebuilt. All the guys in the 6-Pack Forum swear by him.
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 9:45 PM
> To: <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
> <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
> 
> > ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS!
> >
> > I had one rebuilt for one race TR4 and need my TR3A done...and will
> have
> > Jeff
> > do it.
> >
> > advancedistributors.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>
> > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> > Sent: Sat, May 1, 2010 7:16 pm
> > Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
> >
> >
> > Hi Team,
> > I keep going through rotors like crazy and was thinking it would be
> > good idea to have my distributor rebuilt as it has never been done.
> Any
> > ecommendations from the list as to the best person to use would be
> greatly
> > ppreciated.
> > Thanks in advance for any assistance.
> > Robert Rudolphi
> > 974 TR6
> > ______________________________________________
> > 6pack at autox.team.net
> > onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > nsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > 6pack at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sun May  2 08:31:26 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 10:31:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question
In-Reply-To: <004b01cae9ae$b1716360$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335AF@CMS01.winhosting.local>,
	<004b01cae9ae$b1716360$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335B0@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Randall & Ken :

Thanks for the replies. I have been all over the shift tower on my J-type and
my A-type units. I do not see a vent hole. Randall's attached image makes it
seem that the factory simply drilled a hole between the reverse and 3rd/4th
selector rods (leftmost and middle). The placement seems rather specific since
the aluminium is thinner almost everywhere else. I assume the place was chosen
to give a longer pathway to reduce oil slopping out the breather hole.

I am now thinking that when my mechanic made up my transmission, he did so
using a shift tower without a breather.

The cure would then be to pop off the tower and make like a US politician.

Now trying to get maximum detail on placement and routing of hole. (Thanks for
that photo Randall, it gives me placement, but can't tell if it is a simple
vertical hole or something more complex.

Cheers,

Mark




________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall [tr3driver at ca.rr.com]
Sent: May 2, 2010 12:19 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question

> Is a TR6 j-type tranmission supposed to have venting, or
> internal pressure?

Well, both actually <G>

>  I see now that the
> transmission is
> weeping oil from the seals around the shifting rods

A common problem even without blocked vents.  The seals being sold today do
not fit the cavities in the cover snugly. Herman mentioned machining spacers
from brass to fill the gap, but I was able to source some Teflon backing
rings that did the trick for me.

> I think the fellow who rebuilt the transmission and put in
> the nice unit from
> Laycock Rebuilders used 80w90 gear oil. This I have been told
> is a no-no.

Hard to go very wrong with the factory-recommended lubricant!

> Is there a vent hole in the transmission somewhere that might
> be blocked up?

I believe there should be.  Not sure where it was on earlier gearboxes, but
by the time the J-type came in, it was on the top cover near the front RH
corner:
http://tinyurl.com/23kmev4

There is even a factory service bulletin about checking that hole, if the
rear seal is leaking.

> Certainly I used to use 20w50 in the a-type and did not have
> this leaking.

A-types have a big vent in the OD body.  I don't believe the J-type does,
instead it relies on the gearbox vent.

Randall

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sun May  2 09:09:21 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 11:09:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question - drilling for oil
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335B1@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hmmm. I popped off the top of my A-type unit (not installed in the car) and
from a careful comparison of the photo you sent, I see that where they
actually put the breather hole is a bit different than I thought. There are
passageways for the 3 shifting fork rods at the very top front of the
transmission. Each has a "viewing hole" which probably serves to get
lubrication to the shafts (coals to Newcastle all things considered).  What
they did was just drill from the top into that space beyond where the reverse
rod is in it's normal placement. Oil would have to go up through the viewing
port, and then up to the little hole to get out. This allowed them to put the
hole right up at the front, away from the gears spinning the oil up from
below.

So, I can indeed drill that hole, but will have to pop the top off the car's
transmission to do it. Shouldn't be a problem, just have to remember what sort
of gasket material to use in re-sealing. The mechanic used something light
grey which I do not recognise.

Strangely, all the transmission shift towers have a vertical barrel of
aluminium on the right side which looks for all the world to be a space
prepped for a breather. However it is not drilled through. There is no
machinery underneath. I suppose in another model of car something fit there.

Mark
1972 TR6

________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Hooper [mhooper at digiscreen.ca]
Sent: May 2, 2010 10:31 AM
To: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question

Hi Randall & Ken :

Thanks for the replies. I have been all over the shift tower on my J-type and
my A-type units. I do not see a vent hole. Randall's attached image makes it
seem that the factory simply drilled a hole between the reverse and 3rd/4th
selector rods (leftmost and middle). The placement seems rather specific
since
the aluminium is thinner almost everywhere else. I assume the place was
chosen
to give a longer pathway to reduce oil slopping out the breather hole.

I am now thinking that when my mechanic made up my transmission, he did so
using a shift tower without a breather.

The cure would then be to pop off the tower and make like a US politician.

Now trying to get maximum detail on placement and routing of hole. (Thanks
for
that photo Randall, it gives me placement, but can't tell if it is a simple
vertical hole or something more complex.

Cheers,

Mark




________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall [tr3driver at ca.rr.com]
Sent: May 2, 2010 12:19 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question

> Is a TR6 j-type tranmission supposed to have venting, or
> internal pressure?

Well, both actually <G>

>  I see now that the
> transmission is
> weeping oil from the seals around the shifting rods

A common problem even without blocked vents.  The seals being sold today do
not fit the cavities in the cover snugly. Herman mentioned machining spacers
from brass to fill the gap, but I was able to source some Teflon backing
rings that did the trick for me.

> I think the fellow who rebuilt the transmission and put in
> the nice unit from
> Laycock Rebuilders used 80w90 gear oil. This I have been told
> is a no-no.

Hard to go very wrong with the factory-recommended lubricant!

> Is there a vent hole in the transmission somewhere that might
> be blocked up?

I believe there should be.  Not sure where it was on earlier gearboxes, but
by the time the J-type came in, it was on the top cover near the front RH
corner:
http://tinyurl.com/23kmev4

There is even a factory service bulletin about checking that hole, if the
rear seal is leaking.

> Certainly I used to use 20w50 in the a-type and did not have
> this leaking.

A-types have a big vent in the OD body.  I don't believe the J-type does,
instead it relies on the gearbox vent.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May  2 09:26:31 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 08:26:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335B0@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335AF@CMS01.winhosting.local>,
	<004b01cae9ae$b1716360$0301a8c0@randall>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335B0@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <014301caea0b$d843c3e0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Now trying to get maximum detail on placement and routing of 
> hole. 

I don't have one handy to check, but as I recall it was a simple hole into
the bore for the reverse shift shaft.
http://tinyurl.com/3xqc995

Randall

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun May  2 09:33:59 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 11:33:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl dashboard
In-Reply-To: <B31F8C66A8BB496384644FAB202DFDE7@ranteer.local>
References: <B31F8C66A8BB496384644FAB202DFDE7@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <z2p3b0049461005020833s839b6be2g39a1d6248ea622bd@mail.gmail.com>

On 5/1/10, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> what's the best vinyl cleaner to use?  I obviously want to preserve the
> original color, but I also want it clean.
>

Since it is spotty, you might consider a spray-on vinyl dye.

I sprayed the new, repro dashpads of my TR4 using an SEM product to
make them look more like cheesy shiny 60s vinyl (modern stuff looks
more like leather) and it has held up just fine.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May  2 09:35:09 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 08:35:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question - drilling for oil
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335B1@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335B1@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <014401caea0d$0c813830$0301a8c0@randall>

> Each has a "viewing hole" which probably serves 
> to get lubrication to the shafts (coals to Newcastle all 
> things considered).

I believe it was actually to relieve the air pressure that would otherwise
oppose movement of the shaft.  There aren't matching holes at the other end
of the shafts, and they still seem to get plenty of lube (as you've
discovered)

> Shouldn't be a 
> problem, just have to remember what sort of gasket material 
> to use in re-sealing. The mechanic used something light grey 
> which I do not recognise.

I don't believe it's critical at all.  But it's a hassle cutting them, so I
generally use a purpose-made gasket from the usual suspects.

> Strangely, all the transmission shift towers have a vertical 
> barrel of aluminium on the right side which looks for all the 
> world to be a space prepped for a breather. However it is not 
> drilled through. There is no machinery underneath. I suppose 
> in another model of car something fit there.

That was actually the dipstick hole on much earlier TRs.  There was a
matching hole in the transmission tunnel (with a rubber plug), so that one
could check the oil, and add if necessary, without jacking the car up.  It
was deleted in favor of the plug on the side in 1959.

Personally I rather liked the dipstick, so even though my TR3 has a TR6
gearbox, it still has the dipstick.  Turns out the cover castings are
interchangeable, even though the forks & shafts are not.

Randall

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun May  2 09:53:08 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 08:53:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <3064B4216B544321A12124551D1D08F4@BobPC>
References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net><18551.8
	572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<8CCB7B058ABF9F8-13F4-625F@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>
	<3064B4216B544321A12124551D1D08F4@BobPC>
Message-ID: <a06240801c8034fc36bbb@[192.168.2.2]>

OR ... you could junk the old one and put in a NEW Pertronics 
Distributor ... solves many problems, and really makes the car run 
better ... of course you lose the "Lucas" look, so if that is 
important to you ... by all means use Jeff.


At 6:45 AM -0400 5/2/10, Bob Danielson wrote:
>Joe said it all........Jeff at Advance is the "only" place to have 
>one rebuilt. All the guys in the 6-Pack Forum swear by him.
>
>Bob
>
>Bob Danielson
>1975 TR6 CF38503U
>Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
>Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun May  2 10:06:46 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 09:06:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl dashboard
In-Reply-To: <z2p3b0049461005020833s839b6be2g39a1d6248ea622bd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <B31F8C66A8BB496384644FAB202DFDE7@ranteer.local>
	<z2p3b0049461005020833s839b6be2g39a1d6248ea622bd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a06240803c8035358429a@[192.168.2.2]>

Tried a lot of different "stuff" over the years ... Griots Interior 
Cleaner is hard to beat.

>
>  >
>>  what's the best vinyl cleaner to use?  I obviously want to preserve the
>>  original color, but I also want it clean.
>>
>
>Since it is spotty, you might consider a spray-on vinyl dye.
>
>I sprayed the new, repro dashpads of my TR4 using an SEM product to
>make them look more like cheesy shiny 60s vinyl (modern stuff looks
>more like leather) and it has held up just fine.
>
>Geo


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sun May  2 10:16:48 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 02 May 2010 11:16:48 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor  rebuilt
Message-ID: <25792584.633411.1272817008073.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>

He also offers during the rebuild to put a Petronix under cap so you have that original look.  I already had it installed, so he just removed it during the rebuild and put it back when done.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

On May 2, 2010, Bill <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote: 

OR ... you could junk the old one and put in a NEW Pertronics 
Distributor ... solves many problems, and really makes the car run 
better ... of course you lose the "Lucas" look, so if that is 
important to you ... by all means use Jeff.


At 6:45 AM -0400 5/2/10, Bob Danielson wrote:
>Joe said it all........Jeff at Advance is the "only" place to have 
>one rebuilt. All the guys in the 6-Pack Forum swear by him.
>
>Bob
>
>Bob Danielson
>1975 TR6 CF38503U
>Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
>Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun May  2 11:40:17 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 13:40:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 - Floats for Stromberg CD175
Message-ID: <j2q3b0049461005021040se4190d1kb6444cbd66309f7@mail.gmail.com>

My recollection was that floats for the subject carbs have been NLA
for years because they were only used in TR4s and then only for a
short time.

Whilst looking for something else I now notice they are shown as p/n
365-500 on the Moss site:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29128

Is my sometimes faulty memory correct that this is a new development?
or old news?

Also -- is item 100 on that same page the paper filter some use in
place of the oiled-wire original filter?

Thanks.

Geo

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Sun May  2 12:25:12 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 14:25:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <a06240801c8034fc36bbb@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <20100502182357.78954187650@autox.team.net>

 But then you lose the mechanical tachometer, no?  If so, did you convert to
an electronic one?  I believe Nisonger will convert the mechanical tach to
an electronic one.  Do any of the other instrument refurbishers provide that
service?

BobW
Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia)
Member: Delaware Valley Triumphs (DVT), VTR, 6-Pack, The TR Register (UK)

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Sunday, 02 May, 2010 11:53 AM
To: Bob Danielson; robertrudolphi at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net;
6pack at autox.team.net; n197tr4 at cs.com
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt

OR ... you could junk the old one and put in a NEW Pertronics Distributor
... solves many problems, and really makes the car run better ... of course
you lose the "Lucas" look, so if that is important to you ... by all means
use Jeff.


At 6:45 AM -0400 5/2/10, Bob Danielson wrote:
>Joe said it all........Jeff at Advance is the "only" place to have one 
>rebuilt. All the guys in the 6-Pack Forum swear by him.
>
>Bob
>
>Bob Danielson
>1975 TR6 CF38503U
>Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
>Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>


--
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake
it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May  2 12:53:28 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 11:53:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 - Floats for Stromberg CD175
In-Reply-To: <j2q3b0049461005021040se4190d1kb6444cbd66309f7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <j2q3b0049461005021040se4190d1kb6444cbd66309f7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01bd01caea28$c102ad50$0301a8c0@randall>

My information is that there is a later float that will replace both the
CD-175 and the later CDSE-175 and CDSE2-175 floats.  My guess is, that's
what Moss is supplying.  Oddly enough, TRF only lists the float under a
Zenith number (ZEB19470) which they do not have cross-referenced to any of
the Stanpart numbers I found (512310, 516977, 519406).  But I think there is
an excellent chance that ZEB19470 will fit the CD-175 carbs, plus perhaps
the CD-150 used on some GT6 & later Vitesse.

> Is my sometimes faulty memory correct that this is a new development?
> or old news?

Well, relatively new for Moss anyway.  Their 2000 catalog showed it NLA.
But it was listed as available in a 2004 Revington catalog, so I guess they
weren't exactly unobtanium.

> Also -- is item 100 on that same page the paper filter some use in
> place of the oiled-wire original filter?

That's what I'm using, but it hits on the inner fender for a TR3/A.  How
much appears to vary by car, as it's much worse on my TR3 than on the TR3A.
If it was a show car, I wouldn't use it.

ISTR the round TR4 filters (item 98) didn't hit as badly; but they were
either NLA or I wasn't willing to pay the price, last time I stocked up on
air filters.  And of course for a TR3 you need to stop up the emissions
fitting on the face.

Randall

From carlsereda at aol.com  Sun May  2 13:31:20 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Sun, 02 May 2010 12:31:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] shorting rotors
In-Reply-To: <mailman.8685.1272811088.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E061177C.BFA1.4D66.9D8C.F86BEAB45E1B@aol.com>

Robert,
If you're using one of those 'high powered' coils why not just go back to a
'standard' coil because unless you beef up ALL the electronic elements you'll
keep blowing the weakest links..  
regards,
Carl
'63TR4 since '74

On May 2, 2010, at 7:38:08 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

Hi Team,

I keep going through rotors like crazy and was thinking it would be
a good idea to have my distributor rebuilt as it has never been done. Any
recommendations from the list as to the best person to use would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Robert Rudolphi 
1974 TR6

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Sun May  2 13:34:57 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 15:34:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl dashboard
Message-ID: <g2ya38798b31005021234zf80bf133wd0b98076bf62b91@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Oliver.

I used this on my white vinyl tonneau. I found it remarkable. After cleaning
(scrubbing) with soapy water as clean as I could get it, this product took
if from newsprint-grey to white again, without scouring the surface.

http://www.amazon.com/Renovo-Vinyl-Soft-Cleaner-Bottle/dp/B000637SJ2

Then the protectant? I have also learned to shy away from Amourall and its
ilk. They stay sticky and actually and trap attract dust and dirt.

Instead, I recommend : 303 Aerospace Protectant.
http://www.amazon.com/303-Aerospace-Protectant-32-oz/dp/B000GDB0J6

Good luck

Brian

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun May  2 13:39:45 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 15:39:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <0Lm1wv-1NZ1ur1Iwr-00a9aG@mx.perfora.net>
References: <0Lm1wv-1NZ1ur1Iwr-00a9aG@mx.perfora.net>
Message-ID: <15DA46C7EB644E32A04F46CC6FC79B24@BobPC>

Nisonger "used" to be the best instrument service place around but over the 
past few years there have been a lot of negative comments on the Mail Lists 
and in the Forums over their price, service intervals and "friendliness". 
That was enough to scare me away from them and, on Herman van den Aker's 
recommendation, I sent my speedo and tach to West Valley Instrument in 
Resado CA. (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm) 
Morris specializes in just British instruments, charges fairly and turns 
them around in the time frame promised, usually 10 days. While I only had 
mine calibrated, Paul Rego had Morris convert his tach to electronic and was 
very pleased with the results. He initially had a problem with it being 
erratic but a phone call to Morris revealed that there were a batch of bad 
circuit boards out there and to send it back for replacement. Since then 
it's been fine. Paul wrote the whole thing up here. 
http://www.74tr6.com/gauges1.htm

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob Wanderer" <rawanderer at comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 2:25 PM
To: "'Bill'" <anabil007 at comcast.net>; "'Bob Danielson'" 
<75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>; <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Subject: RE: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt

> But then you lose the mechanical tachometer, no?  If so, did you convert 
> to
> an electronic one?  I believe Nisonger will convert the mechanical tach to
> an electronic one.  Do any of the other instrument refurbishers provide 
> that
> service?
>
> BobW
> Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia)
> Member: Delaware Valley Triumphs (DVT), VTR, 6-Pack, The TR Register (UK)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill
> Sent: Sunday, 02 May, 2010 11:53 AM
> To: Bob Danielson; robertrudolphi at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net;
> 6pack at autox.team.net; n197tr4 at cs.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
>
> OR ... you could junk the old one and put in a NEW Pertronics Distributor
> ... solves many problems, and really makes the car run better ... of 
> course
> you lose the "Lucas" look, so if that is important to you ... by all means
> use Jeff.
>
>
> At 6:45 AM -0400 5/2/10, Bob Danielson wrote:
>>Joe said it all........Jeff at Advance is the "only" place to have one
>>rebuilt. All the guys in the 6-Pack Forum swear by him.
>>
>>Bob
>>
>>Bob Danielson
>>1975 TR6 CF38503U
>>Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
>>Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
>>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>>
>
>
> --
> "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake
> it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3
> "Casper"
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun May  2 16:39:50 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 02 May 2010 18:39:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335B0@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <004b01cae9ae$b1716360$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <4BDDC6F6.1307.1E323365@localhost>

On 2 May 2010 at 10:31, Mark Hooper wrote:

> Thanks for the replies. I have been all over the shift tower on
> my J-type and my A-type units. I do not see a vent hole.

When you guys get it straightened out (and perhaps you have already 
and I just don't have the brain cells left to comprehend), let me 
know.  My Spitfire's gearbox drips oil on the exhaust pipe and the 
culprit is oil collecting on the very top of the gearbox.  I ask 
myself how it gets up there.  The top plate has a vent, I think 
that's what it is, shielded on the inside of the box and with what 
looks like a slightly broken plastic plug.  If the shield is meant to 
keep oil from forcing its way up through that hole, it isn't working.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sun May  2 17:53:23 2010
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 19:53:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <8CCB77839117F0F-6A98-13BF0@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
	<1c4801cae95e$98bcad20$0301a8c0@randall>
	<8CCB77839117F0F-6A98-13BF0@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <i2lf99bbf591005021653o54a652f6ke4ec37dc2eff1a73@mail.gmail.com>

Andy,

Well, while you weren't necessarily correct on what was causing the
leaks I'm glad you mentioned the breather.  Turns out its missing its
cap and was wide open to allow moisture, dust, etc into the diff.  Now
I need to either find a replacement or figure out a way to make a cap
that will stay on.

One more thing for the to do list :(

Brad


On Sat, May 1, 2010 at 3:04 PM, Andrew Mace <zoboherald at aol.com> wrote:
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
>
>
>> Is there anything special that has to be done to replace the seal or
>> can I just remove the nut and flange, replace the seal, reinstall
>> flange and then torque the nut?
>
> Should be no problem on your TR4, Brad.  The collapsible spacer didn't come
> in until later.
>
> However, I would examine the sealing surface of the flange carefully.  If
> you can feel the groove left by the old seal with your fingernail, I would
> suggest a Speedi-sleeve.
>
> ==AM==
> And, if you're replacing the seal to address a leak, you might just quickly
> check to make sure that
> the vent for the diff. is clear. If it's clogged up with road grime, it can
> cause enough pressure to
> force your favorite gear lube out. OTOH, odds are it's the original seal
and
> is due regardless! :-)
>
>
> --Andy Mace
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
> Herald engine with wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
>
> Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
> Register: http://www.vtr.org
>
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
Herald
> Database: http://triumph-herald.us
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun May  2 18:01:17 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 20:01:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR  brake calipers
Message-ID: <55d9d.66391049.390f6c4d@aol.com>

List, i want to paint the calipers on my tr3. can any of you recommend a  
product that you have used and had success with.  larry  schwwartz

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Sun May  2 18:17:11 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 17:17:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR  brake calipers
In-Reply-To: <55d9d.66391049.390f6c4d@aol.com>
References: <55d9d.66391049.390f6c4d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B2090D65-25F2-4927-93B9-48948E73807C@gmail.com>

I asked the shop that repainted my porsche & he said he would be happy to
paint calipers for me but that regular high temp paint (e.g., for BBQ grills)
=would work fine.  I did that & 10+ years later tey still look good.
On  2 May, 2010, at 5:01 PM, L1J1S at aol.com wrote:

> List, i want to paint the calipers on my tr3. can any of you recommend a
> product that you have used and had success with.  larry  schwwartz
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com
>

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun May  2 19:06:49 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 02 May 2010 21:06:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 - another red letter day....
Message-ID: <B76B51C101D64E0086A6D95DE09E6CFA@CarlPC>

After 9 years - 7 months - 23 days (and about 10 hours)...   The body and the
chassis are back together again.   Still need to level it up a bit (not much -
door gap is off by 1/8" both sides;  hood & trunk are square 3/16" all around.
So close!

Everything back off tomorrow to finish it up.  The painter is expecting it
back a week from tomorrow.

Carl

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun May  2 20:39:48 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 22:39:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR  brake calipers
In-Reply-To: <55d9d.66391049.390f6c4d@aol.com>
References: <55d9d.66391049.390f6c4d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1887BD53F9BC41ED81CC2B3C69D18648@BobPC>

Larry.............. I used the POR-15 product 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BrakeUpgrade2.htm) and had a "so-so" 
experience. It may have been due to the fact that I was covering their 
silver product with their yellow product. However......it still looks good 3 
years later.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 8:01 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR  brake calipers

> List, i want to paint the calipers on my tr3. can any of you recommend a
> product that you have used and had success with.  larry  schwwartz
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon May  3 00:13:30 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 23:13:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
Message-ID: <a06240806c80419c5bfe4@[192.168.2.2]>

Nope ... the Pertronics fits into the Lucas body on the engine, 
tachometer stays exactly the same


>  But then you lose the mechanical tachometer, no?  If so, did you convert to
>an electronic one?  I believe Nisonger will convert the mechanical tach to
>an electronic one.  Do any of the other instrument refurbishers provide that
>service?


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon May  3 00:17:14 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 23:17:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR  brake calipers
In-Reply-To: <B2090D65-25F2-4927-93B9-48948E73807C@gmail.com>
References: <55d9d.66391049.390f6c4d@aol.com>
	<B2090D65-25F2-4927-93B9-48948E73807C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a06240809c8041a5fe40e@[192.168.2.2]>

I used the kit from Eastwood, worked great, the rear brake drums look 
snazzy in bright red, yep, plenty to do both ends of the car.  When I 
got the kit I was skeptical, did not look like enough, but by 
following the instructions (what a concept)  it worked fine  ...


>I asked the shop that repainted my porsche & he said he would be happy to
>paint calipers for me but that regular high temp paint (e.g., for BBQ grills)
>=would work fine.  I did that & 10+ years later tey still look good.
>On  2 May, 2010, at 5:01 PM, L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
>
>>  List, i want to paint the calipers on my tr3. can any of you recommend a
>  > product that you have used and had success with.  larry  schwwartz
>>
>  >


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Mon May  3 02:30:59 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 10:30:59 +0200
Subject: [TR] Electric fans for TR's
Message-ID: <C656843CB90B48609D944BD4F59B2471@Study>

I have suceeded in reconstituting the write up (don't ask!) I made  about 
nine years ago, where I used parts from the local scrapyard.
Several listers have asked for copies over the years but until now the 
article has remained locked in cyberspace.
I would gladly forward this as a doc file to anyone who wants it. Also would 
add that this mod is still working very well.

Good wishes,

David Brister,
1967 TR4A,
CTC 77785 O 


--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 7271 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Mon May  3 04:49:42 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 03:49:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor
Message-ID: <562992.27466.qm@web51601.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 14:25:12 -0400
From: "Bob Wanderer" <rawanderer at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor
    rebuilt

But then you lose the mechanical tachometer, no? ...
NO!

BobW
------------------------------
Hi Bob!
 
I own a TR4A & NOT a TR6 so what I'm stating MAY not apply to you. I purchased
a complete distributor with Electric & NOT points from a Pertronix
Distributor back on 1-23-09. I was STILL able to use my mechanical Tach.
 
I purchased it from:
Standard Performance
Att: Bennett French
700 Ray Ave Suite C
Hendersonville, NC 28792
828-692-5665

-Cosmo Kramer

From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Mon May  3 05:37:39 2010
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 04:37:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <a06240801c8034fc36bbb@[192.168.2.2]>
References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net><18551.8
	572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<8CCB7B058ABF9F8-13F4-625F@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>
	<3064B4216B544321A12124551D1D08F4@BobPC>
	<a06240801c8034fc36bbb@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <339288.84439.qm@web56208.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Hi Bob,

Would the tach work with the Pertronics unit?  I throught only the
Lucas had the Tach drive.

Thanks,

Robert
To: Bob
Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; robertrudolphi at yahoo.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Sun, May
2, 2010 11:53:08 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor
rebuilt

OR ... you could junk the old one and put in a NEW Pertronics
Distributor ... solves many problems, and really makes the car run 
better ...
of course you lose the "Lucas" look, so if that is 
important to you ... by
all means use Jeff.


At 6:45 AM -0400 5/2/10, Bob Danielson wrote:
>Joe said
it all........Jeff at Advance is the "only" place to have 
>one rebuilt. All
the guys in the 6-Pack Forum swear by him.
>
>Bob
>
>Bob Danielson
>1975 TR6
CF38503U
>Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
>Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there
is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From peterara at msn.com  Mon May  3 06:08:54 2010
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 05:08:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl - armorall
Message-ID: <COL122-DS18C0CEE087513D682CCE97C1F20@phx.gbl>

Was written:
"I have also learned to shy away from Amorall and its
ilk. They stay sticky and actually and trap attract dust and dirt."

This is one of my pet peeves...
You see I worked for Armorall when it first came out.  We met with the
technical people for explanation and training.
The reason Armorall stays sticky is too much was applied and it was not buffed
after use.
I will also say that the instructions currently on the bottles are not what
they were originally.  A subject I have taken up with them at automotive
shows.
The proper application of Armorall goes like this:
Use sparingly. Only apply directly to tires.  On vinyl you should dampen a
cloth and apply by wiping with that cloth.  Use very sparingly! Armorall works
by being absorbed. Use only enough to make the surface appear damp - you know
it looks a  little darker.
Then, 24 hours later, you must buff it with a clean cloth.  this removes any
excess and sets the Armorall.  It also stops the static cling of dust.
Again - sticky surface = too much applied.
I have use it for 30 years on tires and vinyl with none of the problems
ascribed to it.

N.F.I., just a rant....

Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Mon May  3 06:17:00 2010
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 05:17:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Funny and Interesting Quote on Planes and Triumphs
Message-ID: <86224.15293.qm@web80806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

>From the Detroit Free Press, Sunday 05-02-2010
in a travel section article:
Planes: All except two were your basic crowded
Boeing 737s or Airbus A319s.
The smallest was
a surprisingly comfortable 60-seat Embraer RJ145
from Houston
to Mexico City. The oldest was a
1970s B-era DC-9 on a Delta route between
Detroit
and Hartford, Conn. When things got bumpy, that
DC-9 bounced around
like a dog on a trampoline.

b
When are you going to get rid of this old
plane?b
 I
asked the pilot as we were exiting. He grinned and
said he loved
flyB-ing it because it was reliable and
like driving his old TriB-umph sports
car.
B 
B 
Doug Mitchell
--
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon May  3 06:45:26 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 08:45:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl - armorall
Message-ID: <94e9.26fa602b.39101f66@aol.com>

Hi Peter; thanks for that insight. As you're an Armor-all expert, I have a  
question: I understand that Armor-all is limited in it's UV protection. I 
had a  new,  longer zip fitted to my TR3A tonneau (a great mod for those of 
us who  need the seat all the way back) and, whilst at the upholsterer's 
place, I asked  what I should use to clean and protect the tonneau. He suggested 
a number of  different cleaners, then said "and don't use Armor-all to keep 
it nice because  of limited UV protectant". He went on to recommend a 
couple of other products  for this purpose.
 
Any truth in this?
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Mon May  3 08:01:36 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 10:01:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A horn relay location
Message-ID: <p2of99bbf591005030701m457491d0udb02d3532bf43556@mail.gmail.com>

I plan on adding a horn relay on my 63 TR4 and would like to know
where the factory installed the horn relays on the TR4A.

Any help would be appreciated!

Brad
1963 TR4

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon May  3 09:06:10 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 11:06:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <i2lf99bbf591005021653o54a652f6ke4ec37dc2eff1a73@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
	<1c4801cae95e$98bcad20$0301a8c0@randall>
	<8CCB77839117F0F-6A98-13BF0@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<i2lf99bbf591005021653o54a652f6ke4ec37dc2eff1a73@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <x2y3b0049461005030806k4b6f6613t2fa46749ebe439f0@mail.gmail.com>

On 5/2/10, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> ...Turns out its missing its cap...

There's supposed to be a cap?  What does it look like?  Thanks.

Geo

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Mon May  3 09:23:43 2010
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 11:23:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <x2y3b0049461005030806k4b6f6613t2fa46749ebe439f0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
	<1c4801cae95e$98bcad20$0301a8c0@randall>
	<8CCB77839117F0F-6A98-13BF0@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<i2lf99bbf591005021653o54a652f6ke4ec37dc2eff1a73@mail.gmail.com>
	<x2y3b0049461005030806k4b6f6613t2fa46749ebe439f0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <v2nf99bbf591005030823ra0cd732bo126b250335af9ac5@mail.gmail.com>

Geo,

Your question made me look closer at the diagram in Moss's catalog.
Page 48 item 4.  It doesn't look like it has a cap to it which
surprises me.  All the ones I've seen on other brands of vehicles had
a sheet metal cap that basically wobbled around but kept dirt and
moisture out.

The picture makes it look like there is no cap over the nipple.

Now I'm confused.

Anyone know if there is supposed to be a cap over the breather nipple
on the diff?



On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 11:06 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
> On 5/2/10, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> ...Turns out its missing its cap...
>
> There's supposed to be a cap?  What does it look like?  Thanks.
>
> Geo

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon May  3 09:43:05 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 09:43:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl - armorall
In-Reply-To: <94e9.26fa602b.39101f66@aol.com>
References: <94e9.26fa602b.39101f66@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D37C31C6-54FC-4544-B2E0-65632CA8602C@flash.net>

So what products did he recommend?
Bill

Mobile Bill

On May 3, 2010, at 6:45 AM, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:

> Hi Peter; thanks for that insight. As you're an Armor-all expert, I  
> have a
> question: I understand that Armor-all is limited in it's UV  
> protection. I
> had a  new,  longer zip fitted to my TR3A tonneau (a great mod for  
> those of
> us who  need the seat all the way back) and, whilst at the  
> upholsterer's
> place, I asked  what I should use to clean and protect the tonneau.  
> He suggested
> a number of  different cleaners, then said "and don't use Armor-all  
> to keep
> it nice because  of limited UV protectant". He went on to recommend a
> couple of other products  for this purpose.
>
> Any truth in this?
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
> 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
> Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
> Canada
> Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
> (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/)
>
> Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for
> horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape  
> Association, the
> Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural  
> Society and
> the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Mon May  3 10:56:58 2010
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists)
Date: 3 May 2010 18:56:58 +0200
Subject: [TR]
	=?utf-8?q?=5B6pack=5D_Best_palace_to_have_a_TR6_Distributor_?=
	=?utf-8?q?rebuilt?=
Message-ID: <MYFA_SERVER_IIEAOeI0000009d@www.erp-3.net>

Robert and all,

maybe you've heard about the 123ignition system, a fully electronical ignition system built for many (not only) British cars while retaining the classic look of a distributor.

We've specialized in converting original distributors to 123ignition having the advantage of completely original look paired with the reliability of modern electronics and keeping all mechanical functions (like the tach drive) of the original.

For more info about the 123ignition and an example of a conversion of a Lucas 22D6 distributor have a look at

http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p7296

Kind regards

Eric
(Brits'n'Pieces)


bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
Von	robert rudolphi [robertrudolphi at yahoo.com]	
An	Bill[anabil007 at comcast.net]; Bob Danielson[75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org]; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; n197tr4 at cs.com	
CC		
Datum	03.05.2010 13:44:31	
Betreff	Re: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt	
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
Hi Bob,

Would the tach work with the Pertronics unit?  I throught only the
Lucas had the Tach drive.

Thanks,

Robert
To: Bob
Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; robertrudolphi at yahoo.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Sun, May
2, 2010 11:53:08 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor
rebuilt

OR ... you could junk the old one and put in a NEW Pertronics
Distributor ... solves many problems, and really makes the car run 
better ...
of course you lose the "Lucas" look, so if that is 
important to you ... by
all means use Jeff.

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Mon May  3 10:53:12 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 18:53:12 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR4A horn relay location
References: <p2of99bbf591005030701m457491d0udb02d3532bf43556@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DE3FAB2C42134E7584EF6A9E6E397BA3@Study>

My TR4A CTC 77785 O which was very original when I acquired it has the horns 
on those platforms each side that are level with the thermostat housing and 
the Lucas relay is mounted just behind the right hand horn.
HTH,

David Brister 


--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 7294 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Mon May  3 11:03:04 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 10:03:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl - armorall
In-Reply-To: <D37C31C6-54FC-4544-B2E0-65632CA8602C@flash.net>
References: <94e9.26fa602b.39101f66@aol.com>
	<D37C31C6-54FC-4544-B2E0-65632CA8602C@flash.net>
Message-ID: <BB6CEAE9-94D3-4949-A534-32377A8C2560@gmail.com>

I believe I got this suggestion for vinyl protection from the Porsche list.
They recommended Vinylex (from the same people that make Lexol for leather).
It claims to have a DH-60 UV screen.   I have been using both with good
results for many years in Florida & now Arizona.

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From dmericas at austin.rr.com  Mon May  3 11:34:15 2010
From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 17:34:15 +0000
Subject: [TR] Electric fans for TR's
In-Reply-To: <mailman.8938.1272906122.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20100503173416.6DA98.29003.root@hrndva-web03-z01>

David --

I would like to request a copy of your write-up.

Thanks.

Dean Mericas
1965 TR4
1974 Alfa 2000 GTV
1976 Alfa Giulia Nuova Super 1300

> I have suceeded in reconstituting the write up (don't ask!) I made  about 
> nine years ago, where I used parts from the local scrapyard.
> Several listers have asked for copies over the years but until now the 
> article has remained locked in cyberspace.
> I would gladly forward this as a doc file to anyone who wants it. Also would 
> add that this mod is still working very well.
> 
> Good wishes,
> 
> David Brister,
> 1967 TR4A,
> CTC 77785 O 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May  3 11:51:44 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 10:51:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <x2y3b0049461005030806k4b6f6613t2fa46749ebe439f0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com><1c4801cae95e$98bcad20$0301a8c0@randall><8CCB77839117F0F-6A98-13BF0@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com><i2lf99bbf591005021653o54a652f6ke4ec37dc2eff1a73@mail.gmail.com>
	<x2y3b0049461005030806k4b6f6613t2fa46749ebe439f0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03a001caeae9$4bb91220$0301a8c0@randall>

> There's supposed to be a cap?  

None of mine have had a cap.  

But it sounds like a good idea, I may see if I can add one when I build a
3.45 axle for my TR3.  In fact, given how dusty it is around here, a proper
breather filter seems like a better idea.  I see MMC has a variety of them,
starting at just a buck.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#vent-breathers/=6xijw7

Randall

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon May  3 12:05:29 2010
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 11:05:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl - armorall
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F10FC2CEB@kb1.mossmotors.com>

"I understand that Armor-all is limited in it's UV protection... Any
truth in this?"

Well I can't say what the current formulation is, but back in the day
one of the main points about Armorall was its UV protection.  Plus
nothing sticks to an Armoralled surface, so when you Armorall your tire
and drive down that dirt driveway to the car show, the dust won't be on
the Armoralled area - I love it for that.

Peter Arakelian

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Mon May  3 12:55:51 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 11:55:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl - armorall
In-Reply-To: <D37C31C6-54FC-4544-B2E0-65632CA8602C@flash.net>
References: <94e9.26fa602b.39101f66@aol.com>
	<D37C31C6-54FC-4544-B2E0-65632CA8602C@flash.net>
Message-ID: <10DC4EF0-C5E5-4CEF-AC11-A4B15CFABD79@gmail.com>

I believe I got this suggestion for vinyl protection from the Porsche list.
They recommended Vinylex (from the same people that make Lexol for leather).
It claims to have a DH-60 UV screen.   I have been using both with good
results for many years in Florida & now Arizona.

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon May  3 19:16:06 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 21:16:06 EDT
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl - armorall
Message-ID: <3ec46.47520ad2.3910cf56@aol.com>

He recommended a product called F21, which he says is like Armor-all  but 
with more UV protectant. I've been using it and the tonneau has remained  
supple and shiny (it's white), although perhaps it would've done with Armor-all 
 too; not sure. Now my container of F21 has run out and I can't find any 
more in  the stores!  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From popnglo at gmail.com  Tue May  4 05:05:01 2010
From: popnglo at gmail.com (Ed Poplawski)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 07:05:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] starter dog bolt (1958 TR3A)
Message-ID: <r2yf3e5047e1005040405hbfe0340fzf5a45ee0171443eb@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have the torque value for tightening the starter dog bolt? Any
suggestion for locking up the crankshaft while tightening? The oil pan is
currently off, so I could wedge something by that route. Silly question,
but, other than keeping parts where parts are supposed to be,is it necessary
to install this starter dog bolt if the hand crank is not going to be used
(radiator hole blocked).

Ed (Hudson Valley NY)

From tr4driver at gmail.com  Tue May  4 07:01:00 2010
From: tr4driver at gmail.com (Kurtis J.)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 08:01:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
Message-ID: <k2qe1dd498f1005040601k78c636afh9a34212c28395b17@mail.gmail.com>

During the process of changing the fan belt on my TR4 last night, I
discovered that the spare belt I've been carrying in my trunk has
merely been taking up space.  There is no way that change was ever
gonna happen on the side of the road!  I had to loosen the front
engine mounts and jack the engine up to get the necessary clearance
between the fan extension piece and the steering rack.  After looking
back through some old messages on the list, I assume this is typical.

-- 
Kurt Jones
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4 - CT19389L
1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250
www.vintagebritishcars.com

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Tue May  4 08:41:53 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 16:41:53 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
References: <k2qe1dd498f1005040601k78c636afh9a34212c28395b17@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <75BF60EBEDAA4D7BA32C424CE4C4159D@Study>

The trick is to work the spare fan belt past the steering rack/fan extension 
gap at  your leisure by whatever means you may choos. Then you secure it to 
the steering rack with strong cable ties and there it sits until you need 
it. I have seen people even wrap the belt up with plastic.
FWIW I have found these wide belts give a lot of warning before their demise 
like clicking noises and visible cracks particularly on the inside.

Of course YMMV,

David Brister
1967 TR4A
CTC 77785 O 


--
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  4 09:19:13 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 11:19:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
Message-ID: <5fe6d.6ecdcb46.391194f1@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/4/2010 8:18:57 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr4driver at gmail.com writes: 
> During the process of changing the fan belt on my TR4 last night, I
> discovered that the spare belt I've been carrying in my trunk has
> merely been taking up space.  There is no way that change was ever
> gonna happen on the side of the road!  I had to loosen the front
> engine mounts and jack the engine up to get the necessary clearance
> between the fan extension piece and the steering rack.  After looking
> back through some old messages on the list, I assume this is typical.
> 
Yes, it is.  I managed to change one on the side of the road but I had to 
notch the belt to clear the extension/rack interference.  (Obviously I put in 
another belt under more controlled circumstances soon thereafter)  I was 
able to change the TR3 fan belt on the side of the road quite easily.  One 
would assume that the problem with the TR4 was the fact that the steering rack 
was retrofitted to what is basically a TR3 frame.  Then one would look at 
the TR6 and see that given the opportunity to fix the problem when making the 
necessary changes for the new engine, the designers decided to carry on the 
now quaint tradition of not allowing sufficient clearance to change the 
belt.  Harumph.

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May  4 09:34:53 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 08:34:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] starter dog bolt (1958 TR3A)
In-Reply-To: <r2yf3e5047e1005040405hbfe0340fzf5a45ee0171443eb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <r2yf3e5047e1005040405hbfe0340fzf5a45ee0171443eb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <059101caeb9f$58106f80$0301a8c0@randall>

> Does anyone have the torque value for tightening the starter 
> dog bolt?

Standard torque is 140 ft-lb for a 5/8-18 grade 3.

> Any
> suggestion for locking up the crankshaft while tightening? 

I generally use an impact wrench, so no need to hold the crankshaft.  But a
big pry bar against the ring gear teeth should work.  So does jamming a
chunk of 2x4 into a crank throw, but I don't like the idea of possibly
leaving wood fragments inside the crankcase.

> Silly question,
> but, other than keeping parts where parts are supposed to 
> be,is it necessary
> to install this starter dog bolt 

Well, no, but it's kind of important for keeping parts where they should be.
Without it, the front hub will work back and forth against the key in the
crank, eventually ruining the key, hub and crankshaft.  BTDT.

Randall

From popnglo at gmail.com  Tue May  4 10:01:18 2010
From: popnglo at gmail.com (popnglo at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 04 May 2010 16:01:18 +0000
Subject: [TR] starter dog bolt (1958 TR3A)
In-Reply-To: <059101caeb9f$58106f80$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <0016e64c2ce8e6a8da0485c6d1c7@google.com>

Thanks Randall,

I had just found the same answer in the British Car Triumph forum with a  
search on "TR3 starter dog bolt torque setting".
Guess who was the poster?

Thanks Again, Ed

On May 4, 2010 11:34am, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:



> > Does anyone have the torque value for tightening the starter dog bolt?

> Standard torque is 140 ft-lb for a 5/8-18 grade 3.

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Tue May  4 10:25:44 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 04 May 2010 11:25:44 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
Message-ID: <18546100.688731.1272990344630.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>

Dave,

I replaced the fan belt on my 1972 Triumph TR6 and I not loosen or remove any engine mounts.

Craig

On May 4, 2010, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: 

In a message dated 5/4/2010 8:18:57 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr4driver at gmail.com writes: 
> During the process of changing the fan belt on my TR4 last night, I
> discovered that the spare belt I've been carrying in my trunk has
> merely been taking up space. There is no way that change was ever
> gonna happen on the side of the road! I had to loosen the front
> engine mounts and jack the engine up to get the necessary clearance
> between the fan extension piece and the steering rack. After looking
> back through some old messages on the list, I assume this is typical.
> 
Yes, it is. I managed to change one on the side of the road but I had to 
notch the belt to clear the extension/rack interference. (Obviously I put in 
another belt under more controlled circumstances soon thereafter) I was 
able to change the TR3 fan belt on the side of the road quite easily. One 
would assume that the problem with the TR4 was the fact that the steering rack 
was retrofitted to what is basically a TR3 frame. Then one would look at 
the TR6 and see that given the opportunity to fix the problem when making the 
necessary changes for the new engine, the designers decided to carry on the 
now quaint tradition of not allowing sufficient clearance to change the 
belt. Harumph.

Dave

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From lee at automate-it.com  Tue May  4 10:47:31 2010
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 11:47:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] cleaning vinyl - armorall
In-Reply-To: <3ec46.47520ad2.3910cf56@aol.com>
References: <3ec46.47520ad2.3910cf56@aol.com>
Message-ID: <dd04d7d84a17ca20de35cfecf0d298de.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

> Now my container of F21 has run out and I can't find any
> more in  the stores!

You can order directly from TurtleWax here:
   http://tinyurl.com/2v8so2h

and I also see it available via Amazon.com, etc.

 - Lee

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  4 12:06:52 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 14:06:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
Message-ID: <3d29.43d2704a.3911bc3c@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/4/2010 11:25:56 AM Central Daylight Time, 
thenicholls at verizon.net writes: 
> I replaced the fan belt on my 1972 Triumph TR6 and I not loosen or remove 
> any engine mounts.
> 

Me, too.  All I had to do was loosen the cross brace.  Still, you need to 
jack up the cross member to get the brace back in.

Dave

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue May  4 12:35:07 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 14:35:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <18546100.688731.1272990344630.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <18546100.688731.1272990344630.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <l2i3b0049461005041135oc3fe1c1cn2c84f717dae38940@mail.gmail.com>

Seems to be a problem unqiue to the TR4/4A.  I carry a length of
(nylon?) rope that is somewhat stretchy.  I have used it as an
emergency replacement and drove 100s of miles w/o a problem.  An added
bonus is that is can be used to just drive the water pump if the
generator grenades (what I had to do).

Just cinch it up real tight, use some boy-scout knot, then trim the
ends.  The rope I use is about 1/8 or 3/16 in diameter.

Geo

From rhelman at gmail.com  Tue May  4 13:34:45 2010
From: rhelman at gmail.com (Roger Helman)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 12:34:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <l2i3b0049461005041135oc3fe1c1cn2c84f717dae38940@mail.gmail.com>
References: <18546100.688731.1272990344630.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
	<l2i3b0049461005041135oc3fe1c1cn2c84f717dae38940@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <z2k779de48e1005041234vbf0c3f5ch1cfc33de9dadd70f@mail.gmail.com>

Guys,

I always carry my old belt in the trunk.

If and when the belt breaks push one side of the old belt between the
harmonic balancer and the cross member.
When it is wedged tight just bump the starter.
DO NOT start the car.
The belt should have been pulled down past the cross member and the harmonic
balancer.
I would not  want to do that with a new belt, but it is good enough to get
you back on the road and moving.

Roger

On Tue, May 4, 2010 at 11:35 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> Seems to be a problem unqiue to the TR4/4A.  I carry a length of
> (nylon?) rope that is somewhat stretchy.  I have used it as an
> emergency replacement and drove 100s of miles w/o a problem.  An added
> bonus is that is can be used to just drive the water pump if the
> generator grenades (what I had to do).
>
> Just cinch it up real tight, use some boy-scout knot, then trim the
> ends.  The rope I use is about 1/8 or 3/16 in diameter.
>
> Geo
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rhelman at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Roger Helman
rhelman at gmail.com

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue May  4 13:53:41 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 15:53:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A horn relay location
In-Reply-To: <DE3FAB2C42134E7584EF6A9E6E397BA3@Study>
References: <p2of99bbf591005030701m457491d0udb02d3532bf43556@mail.gmail.com>
	<DE3FAB2C42134E7584EF6A9E6E397BA3@Study>
Message-ID: <q2wf99bbf591005041253uc1a886b4qb83d0f10697d39ca@mail.gmail.com>

David,

Thanks for the info.  It wasn't to difficult sorting through the wires
once the relay location was identified.  Now to actually finish it.

Thanks!

Brad


On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 12:53 PM, David Brister <david.brister at wanadoo.fr> wrote:
> My TR4A CTC 77785 O which was very original when I acquired it has the horns
> on those platforms each side that are level with the thermostat housing and
> the Lucas relay is mounted just behind the right hand horn.
> HTH,
>
> David Brister
>
>
> --
> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
> We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
> SPAMfighter has removed 7294 of my spam emails to date.
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From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Tue May  4 14:04:53 2010
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 16:04:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear pinion seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <03a001caeae9$4bb91220$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <q2rf99bbf591005011118s3bf5ceb4k85434fb31c7a98e@mail.gmail.com>
	<1c4801cae95e$98bcad20$0301a8c0@randall>
	<8CCB77839117F0F-6A98-13BF0@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<i2lf99bbf591005021653o54a652f6ke4ec37dc2eff1a73@mail.gmail.com>
	<x2y3b0049461005030806k4b6f6613t2fa46749ebe439f0@mail.gmail.com>
	<03a001caeae9$4bb91220$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <h2mf99bbf591005041304r7ce59040y2af0fc85790a7017@mail.gmail.com>

My old 51 dodge truck had a little square sheetmetal hat that was
installed over the nipple and then the four corners were crimped to
keep it from coming off.  The nipple had a ridge around the top edge
for the crimped corners to stop against.  Simple and cheap.

The new filter breathers you mentioned would probably be better and I
think I even have a few sitting on the shelf that I'll have to check
out.

I just don't like the idea of an open hole down into the diff.

Brad


On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 1:51 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> There's supposed to be a cap?
>
> None of mine have had a cap.
>
> But it sounds like a good idea, I may see if I can add one when I build a
> 3.45 axle for my TR3.  In fact, given how dusty it is around here, a proper
> breather filter seems like a better idea.  I see MMC has a variety of them,
> starting at just a buck.
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#vent-breathers/=6xijw7
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May  4 14:21:39 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 13:21:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <z2k779de48e1005041234vbf0c3f5ch1cfc33de9dadd70f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <18546100.688731.1272990344630.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net><l2i3b0049461005041135oc3fe1c1cn2c84f717dae38940@mail.gmail.com>
	<z2k779de48e1005041234vbf0c3f5ch1cfc33de9dadd70f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <062201caebc7$678e2ab0$0301a8c0@randall>

I'm just curious, have any of you guys tried shimming up the motor mounts
until the belt will fit through the gap?  

The shims were used by the factory "as required" to line the crank up with
the hole in the radiator, but I don't see any reason they couldn't both be
shimmed by 1/4" or so to get clearance for a belt.  New motor mounts would
likely help too, as mine seem to sag over time.

And of course the cogged Gates belt ($12 @ RockAuto) will go on a bit easier
than the solid 'original' belts.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  4 14:56:24 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 16:56:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
Message-ID: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/4/2010 2:06:53 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes: 
> Seems to be a problem unqiue to the TR4/4A.  I carry a length of
> (nylon?) rope that is somewhat stretchy.  I have used it as an
> emergency replacement and drove 100s of miles w/o a problem.  An added
> bonus is that is can be used to just drive the water pump if the
> generator grenades (what I had to do).
> 


I seem to recall a product sold as an emergency fan belt.  It was a linked 
affair that you would loop around the appropriate pulleys and snap together 
the number of links you needed.  It was supposed to get you to a place where 
you can affect proper repairs.

Anyone seen this lately?

Dave

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue May  4 15:33:12 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 21:33:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A New Alloy Valve Cover
In-Reply-To: <3ec46.47520ad2.3910cf56@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1188839291.25484841273008792986.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

As posted previously, am leaking oil.  For the first time, I pulled the valve cover I purchased off E-Bay several years ago, cleaned it, and put it over a flashlight on a flat surface.  Hmmm...imagine my surprise.

What I saw was lots of light under the two ends.  Am guessing that it came with a history of DPOs cranking down on the two nuts that hold it on, which combined with heat from the engine caused it to warp upwards on each end.  Means while I've been torquing to specs, I have really only been tightening the center section and leaving an oil weeping gap at front and back even with Justin's silicone gasket.  Given the oil wetness behind it, I have to think that.

Okay.  Tried to pound the warping out.  Frankly I'm not good enough to be able to do it.  So I took it to my really pretty good machine shop.  They told me they couldn't set it up.  They sent me to a 70 year old machinist in town reputed to be the best in the state.  Except he works about two hours a day and was never in when I stopped by.e

Okay okay.  I bit the bullet, called TRF, and got an alloy valve cover.  It came today.  Expensive, but looks alone are worth every penny and will add immeasurably to the look of the engine bay, albeit I don't care since I typically drive it with the hood down.  

But this new alloy cover also came without a tube to put on the stock breather cap.  

Now I'm sure that the beautiful oil cap that came with it "breathes," but does anyone have an opinion (wait...of course you do...this is the LIST!) about whether it breathes enough to equalize pressure from the rocker arm area?  My old breather cap left the cover pretty cruddy from blow-by over a period of time...

Thank you everyone.

Terry Smith, '590 TR3A
New Hampshire

From tr4driver at gmail.com  Tue May  4 15:51:10 2010
From: tr4driver at gmail.com (Kurtis J.)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 16:51:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com>
References: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com>
Message-ID: <k2me1dd498f1005041451sc9ebdbeam4d92aa9456fd34e@mail.gmail.com>

Good suggestions all.  I agree that the belt gives plenty of warning
before failing completely (one look at my old belt would attest to
that!).  I like the nylon rope solution for quick "get me home" patch.

I'm wondering how much the engine could be shimmed up before hood
clearance with the thermostat housing became an issue(?).

Anyway, I just thought it was a bit amusing that I've been carrying
this spare belt with me only to discover that it really wouldn't have
done me any good.  I'm glad I discovered this in my garage and not on
the side of the road (in the rain... with the top at home... and my
wife in the passenger seat).

I guess the last time I changed the belt was when I had the engine
out.  It wasn't an issue then. *grin*

-- 
Kurt Jones
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4 - CT19389L
1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250
www.vintagebritishcars.com

From januaryw at gmail.com  Tue May  4 15:57:52 2010
From: januaryw at gmail.com (January Williams)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 14:57:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
Message-ID: <s2y5098defe1005041457zf51fa295g512baae5647bf975@mail.gmail.com>

 Exactly what I did, except I used zip-ties to fasten the spare belt to the
"cross tube", not the steering rack, some years ago now, but the idea posted
on this list back then.
January Williams
66 TR4A CTC74217 LO
Salem, Oregon

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 16:41:53 +0200
From: "David Brister" <david.brister at wanadoo.fr>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
To: "Kurtis J." <tr4driver at gmail.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <75BF60EBEDAA4D7BA32C424CE4C4159D at Study>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

The trick is to work the spare fan belt past the steering rack/fan extension
gap at  your leisure by whatever means you may choos. Then you secure it to
the steering rack with strong cable ties and there it sits until you need
it. I have seen people even wrap the belt up with plastic.
FWIW I have found these wide belts give a lot of warning before their demise
like clicking noises and visible cracks particularly on the inside.

Of course YMMV,

David Brister
1967 TR4A
CTC 77785 O

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue May  4 16:07:24 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 18:07:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question - Resolved!
In-Reply-To: <4BDDC6F6.1307.1E323365@localhost>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134671@CMS01.winhosting.local>

A huge thanks to the listers who contributed their experience with the leaky
overdrive transmission situation.

In the end, I determined that my unit had been assembled with a shift tower
lacking the vent hole. I gather that the tower was originally from a 4-speed
transmission where the vent is in the rear extension. So, following an image
from Randall and corroborating input from everybody, I drilled an appropriate
1/8" hole in the tower into the very front end of the reverse shift rod
passageway.

Yesterday I went for a drive up the highway and small roads; a good 1/2 hour
run with lots of shifting and overdrive on and off. At the end barely a single
drop of oil escaped from the unit where it had been leaking quite copiously
from the shift o-rings and position switches before. The one small drop that
did get out was probably just leftover from the last mess.

So, barring some rather strange situation, this truly seems to have been the
major fix over the perennial nasty problem with my LBC.

Thanks again for the fantastic help! I would simply never have found that tiny
hole (or lack of same) without very specific instructions.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: May 2, 2010 6:40 PM
To: Triumph Mail List
Subject: Re: [TR] Transmission internal pressure question

On 2 May 2010 at 10:31, Mark Hooper wrote:

> Thanks for the replies. I have been all over the shift tower on
> my J-type and my A-type units. I do not see a vent hole.

When you guys get it straightened out (and perhaps you have already
and I just don't have the brain cells left to comprehend), let me
know.  My Spitfire's gearbox drips oil on the exhaust pipe and the
culprit is oil collecting on the very top of the gearbox.  I ask
myself how it gets up there.  The top plate has a vent, I think
that's what it is, shielded on the inside of the box and with what
looks like a slightly broken plastic plug.  If the shield is meant to
keep oil from forcing its way up through that hole, it isn't working.

--
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May  4 16:53:44 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 04 May 2010 16:53:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <k2me1dd498f1005041451sc9ebdbeam4d92aa9456fd34e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com>
	<k2me1dd498f1005041451sc9ebdbeam4d92aa9456fd34e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4BE0A578.70204@bradakis.com>

> I'm wondering how much the engine could be shimmed up before hood
> clearance with the thermostat housing became an issue(?).
>
>   

You see a fair number of GT6s that have a small upward ding right near
the front of the power bulge on the hood.  Clearance there is tight, putting
a hose clamp with the clamping bit on top will dent the car.  Small and
not very noticeable, but a dent nonetheless.

mjb.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May  4 17:08:13 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 16:08:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com>
References: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com>
Message-ID: <0a8501caebde$aceada60$06c08f20$@rr.com>

> I seem to recall a product sold as an emergency fan belt.  It was a
> linked
> affair that you would loop around the appropriate pulleys and snap
> together
> the number of links you needed.  It was supposed to get you to a place
> where
> you can affect proper repairs.
> 
> Anyone seen this lately?

A quick Google would seem to indicate that the product is still available,
but only in 'A' and 'B' widths, not the 'D' width needed for TRactor motors.

They are very popular in applications where it otherwise takes significant
disassembly to get the belt off the shaft (like my old Atlas lathe), but as
I recall the price was rather high.

-- Randall 

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Tue May  4 17:15:53 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 19:15:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
References: <18546100.688731.1272990344630.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net><l2i3b0049461005041135oc3fe1c1cn2c84f717dae38940@mail.gmail.com><z2k779de48e1005041234vbf0c3f5ch1cfc33de9dadd70f@mail.gmail.com>
	<062201caebc7$678e2ab0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <2451156E3C7842F18CB09DB8FED21EED@userb38463fba5>

Randall and others,
I did use shims to facilitate more space between the rack and the fan 
extension before I installed an electric fan and eliminated the extension. 
One problem however is that there is very little extra thread on the 
threaded post on either side of the rubber mount to allow for much of a 
shim. I've owned my car (TR4A) since 1969 and I don't recall having this 
problem back in the day. Perhaps the original mounts were thicker, I just 
don't recall. My mounts are the square type with a moon shaped gap molded 
into the rubber and not the round ones. Has anyone compared the thickness of 
the round mounts to the square mounts? Are the round ones thicker perhaps 
allowing the engine to sit up higher?
JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement


> I'm just curious, have any of you guys tried shimming up the motor mounts
> until the belt will fit through the gap?
>
> The shims were used by the factory "as required" to line the crank up with
> the hole in the radiator, but I don't see any reason they couldn't both be
> shimmed by 1/4" or so to get clearance for a belt.  New motor mounts would
> likely help too, as mine seem to sag over time.
>
> And of course the cogged Gates belt ($12 @ RockAuto) will go on a bit 
> easier
> than the solid 'original' belts.
>
> Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  4 17:51:19 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 19:51:19 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
Message-ID: <12f79.3b40cacd.39120cf7@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/4/2010 6:24:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> They are very popular in applications where it otherwise takes 
> significant
> disassembly to get the belt off the shaft (like my old Atlas lathe), but 
> as
> I recall the price was rather high.
> 
My Oldsmobile has a serpentine belt that is a little tricky to thread but 
not too bad.  But to change it one must remove the engine mount on that end 
of the engine.

I guess they never learn.

;-)

Dave

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue May  4 19:28:20 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 20:28:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
References: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com>
Message-ID: <6545291D62F64921AF1FDC100AC1A2CA@trigeni.com>

Try this:

http://www.amazon.com/Powertwist-Power-Twist-V-Belt/dp/B001BQDS8I

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement


> In a message dated 5/4/2010 2:06:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
> ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes:
>> Seems to be a problem unqiue to the TR4/4A.  I carry a length of
>> (nylon?) rope that is somewhat stretchy.  I have used it as an
>> emergency replacement and drove 100s of miles w/o a problem.  An added
>> bonus is that is can be used to just drive the water pump if the
>> generator grenades (what I had to do).
>>
>
>
> I seem to recall a product sold as an emergency fan belt.  It was a linked
> affair that you would loop around the appropriate pulleys and snap 
> together
> the number of links you needed.  It was supposed to get you to a place 
> where
> you can affect proper repairs.
>
> Anyone seen this lately?
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue May  4 19:34:23 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 01:34:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 help wanted in south New Jersey USA
In-Reply-To: <k2me1dd498f1005041451sc9ebdbeam4d92aa9456fd34e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <593616456.22135791273023263030.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Sue got a call from a gentleman with a 609 area code (apparently this code centers around Trenton NJ) who has had his 1975 TR6 since new.  He now wants to rehab it and is looking for some help.  He does not want to damage the car while fixing it up.  If there is anyone in that neck of the woods who can help, send me a private email and I will pass along his name and phone number.

Responding to me does not obligate you to run right over there and rebuild his car.  :-)  

Does someone want to repost this to 6-pack?  I'm not a member.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue May  4 19:36:03 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 20:36:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
References: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com>
	<0a8501caebde$aceada60$06c08f20$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <27287E2CA628472CA8AE2AE1A1C133EF@trigeni.com>

Randall, I hate to disagree with you but I think you will find the TRactor 
belt is a "C" section (7/8" wide).  A "D" section is 1 1/4" wide and I 
haven't seen one since my paper mill days!

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement


>
> A quick Google would seem to indicate that the product is still available,
> but only in 'A' and 'B' widths, not the 'D' width needed for TRactor 
> motors.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May  4 20:03:43 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 19:03:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <27287E2CA628472CA8AE2AE1A1C133EF@trigeni.com>
References: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com>
	<0a8501caebde$aceada60$06c08f20$@rr.com>
	<27287E2CA628472CA8AE2AE1A1C133EF@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <06d401caebf7$3096d040$0301a8c0@randall>

> Randall, I hate to disagree with you but I think you will 
> find the TRactor 
> belt is a "C" section (7/8" wide).  A "D" section is 1 1/4" 
> wide and I 
> haven't seen one since my paper mill days!

Ok, my mistake.  Sorry about that.

And it appears that the C-section is still available, although the price is
still a bit high for my wallet.  Look for P/N 0418073 on
http://www.fennerdrives.com

Randall

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Tue May  4 22:10:05 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 21:10:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <06d401caebf7$3096d040$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com>
	<0a8501caebde$aceada60$06c08f20$@rr.com>
	<27287E2CA628472CA8AE2AE1A1C133EF@trigeni.com>
	<06d401caebf7$3096d040$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <441758.92596.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I'm chiming in late on this discussion....I changed the fan belt on my TR4A
using a technique described in a Moss Motors catalog "Tech Tips" feature.  It
suggested to put a block of wood under the oil pan and place a jack beneath
the wood.  Then, slowly and gently crank the jack up for the necessary
clearance....I placed a thick Yellow Pages phone book under the oil pan
instead of wood.  By cranking the jack, I got the small clearance needed to
slip the belt on with no damage to the car, I think.  It did continue to leak
oil at its regular pace....I may not try that trick again when I get the car
back from the rebuild.
Pat
TR4A '67
1CTC/72746-L
________________________________
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, May 4, 2010 7:03:43 PM
Subject: Re: [TR]
TR4 Fan Belt Replacement

> Randall, I hate to disagree with you but I think
you will 
> find the TRactor 
> belt is a "C" section (7/8" wide).  A "D"
section is 1 1/4" 
> wide and I 
> haven't seen one since my paper mill days!
Ok, my mistake.  Sorry about that.

And it appears that the C-section is still
available, although the price is
still a bit high for my wallet.  Look for P/N
0418073 on
http://www.fennerdrives.com

Randall
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue May  4 22:39:59 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 22:39:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9375.1273014430.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9375.1273014430.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <657B877A-FDD2-4922-B69E-0B2B9DD61656@telus.net>

You can find it in most drug stores, dept stores , even convenience  
and dollar stores.  It's called "Pantyhose".  Stockings work just as  
well and ironically, have fewer "kinks" to deal with.


On 4-May-10, at 5:07 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> Date: May 4, 2010 2:56:24 PM MDT (CA)
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
>
>
> In a message dated 5/4/2010 2:06:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
> ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes:
>> Seems to be a problem unqiue to the TR4/4A.  I carry a length of
>> (nylon?) rope that is somewhat stretchy.  I have used it as an
>> emergency replacement and drove 100s of miles w/o a problem.  An  
>> added
>> bonus is that is can be used to just drive the water pump if the
>> generator grenades (what I had to do).
>>
>
>
> I seem to recall a product sold as an emergency fan belt.  It was a  
> linked
> affair that you would loop around the appropriate pulleys and snap  
> together
> the number of links you needed.  It was supposed to get you to a  
> place where
> you can affect proper repairs.
>
> Anyone seen this lately?

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Wed May  5 00:00:29 2010
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 02:00:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9376.1273014430.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9376.1273014430.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CCBA2F6654DC05-18C4-64A2@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com>

 Interesting idea, Geo, using a piece of rope! I'll have to give it a try
sometime.

There are also universal, emergency fan belts available, that you size as
needed and snap in place. But, like others, I just always kept a spare old
belt in the trunk. A rope might be handier for other things, too... such as
lashing down a piece of luggage on a rack, tying up the dog, or whatever.

I never had any clearance issues fitting the belt on my TR4. Never had to jack
up the engine or loosen the cross brace to install one, the way some others
say they've had to do. I've heard that if you have trouble mounting the belt,
it might be a sign that it's time to replace the engine mounts. But I wonder
if there was some variation in the positioning of the platforms that the
engine mounts sit on, welded onto the frame. (It might be a clue, on my car
the old air cleaners tended to rub slightly against the underside of the hood
under heavy engine torque.)

It's even easier to install a belt on it now, with a slim belt conversion
(mostly to simplify fitting an alternator) and the original fan/extension
completely replaced with a harmonic balancer and an electric fan.



Alan Myers
San Jose, California
amfoto1 at aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L
http://www.triumphowners.com/640



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-request at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, May 4, 2010 4:07 pm
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 188

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 14:35:07 -0400
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
    <l2i3b0049461005041135oc3fe1c1cn2c84f717dae38940 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Seems to be a problem unqiue to the TR4/4A.  I carry a length of
(nylon?) rope that is somewhat stretchy.  I have used it as an
emergency replacement and drove 100s of miles w/o a problem.  An added
bonus is that is can be used to just drive the water pump if the
generator grenades (what I had to do).

Just cinch it up real tight, use some boy-scout knot, then trim the
ends.  The rope I use is about 1/8 or 3/16 in diameter.

Geo

------------------------------

From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed May  5 05:37:44 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 07:37:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <6545291D62F64921AF1FDC100AC1A2CA@trigeni.com>
References: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com>
	<6545291D62F64921AF1FDC100AC1A2CA@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <8CCBA5E83924A6C-1164-82BD@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>

Try this:

http://www.amazon.com/Powertwist-Power-Twist-V-Belt/dp/B001BQDS8I




 That's it.  Thanks

Dave






-

From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed May  5 05:50:18 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 07:50:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <657B877A-FDD2-4922-B69E-0B2B9DD61656@telus.net>
References: <mailman.9375.1273014430.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<657B877A-FDD2-4922-B69E-0B2B9DD61656@telus.net>
Message-ID: <8CCBA6044B0984C-1164-845B@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>

You can find it in most drug stores, dept stores , even convenience
and dollar stores.  It's called "Pantyhose".  Stockings work just as
well and ironically, have fewer "kinks" to deal with.




 And they come in handy for bank withdrawals in the meantime.

Dave

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Wed May  5 07:21:57 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 08:21:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <8CCBA6044B0984C-1164-845B@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>
References: <mailman.9375.1273014430.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	<657B877A-FDD2-4922-B69E-0B2B9DD61656@telus.net>,
	<8CCBA6044B0984C-1164-845B@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W2182F28CA986CF30D6CF53E1F40@phx.gbl>

> And they come in handy for bank withdrawals in the meantime.
>
> Dave


Then you will have the cash to buy one of the fancy emergency replacment
belts.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed May  5 07:38:44 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 08:38:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <8CCBA5E83924A6C-1164-82BD@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>
References: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com><6545291D62F64921AF1FDC100AC1A2CA@trigeni.com>
	<8CCBA5E83924A6C-1164-82BD@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <B87290FA83BE4B19A5B7A4077DEA40DA@ranteer.local>

http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/powertwistplus.htm


according to this reviewer, these belts last longer and reduce vibration and 
noise.

From tr4driver at gmail.com  Wed May  5 08:16:46 2010
From: tr4driver at gmail.com (Kurtis J.)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 09:16:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tonneau Repair
Message-ID: <q2ke1dd498f1005050716l8a56c9b1ob79a8d9aadb3c16a@mail.gmail.com>

Guys...

I've had one of the front snaps (middle passenger side) pull through
on my tonneau.  The material has actually ripped a little at the snap
hole.  I assume I could repair it by sandwiching it between two pieces
of material and then installing a new snap.  I would like to use
material as close to the original tonneau as possible (black vinyl).
Does anyone know where I can find a piece of this?  I've found once
source online, but the smallest quantity is 36" x 50" for $75.  I
really don't think I need more than a square foot.

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Kurt Jones
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4 - CT19389L
1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250
www.vintagebritishcars.com

From hdrider570 at att.net  Wed May  5 08:22:03 2010
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 07:22:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9376.1273014430.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <586020.80485.qm@web83805.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I shimmed the motor mounts on my TR4 to align the hole in the radiator for the hand crank.  I used a couple of the aluminum disks that are normally used to shim the rear body mounts.  One on each side if I recall. 

I have used the same shims on several other TR4's to adjust the belt clearance in the past as well. 

Once properly shimmed the belt is easy to install/remove.  No bonnet clearance issues ever.

Remember they built these cars to make money so there are no "Extra" parts.  If the factory used them, you need them.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Wed May  5 09:01:07 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 08:01:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tonneau Repair
In-Reply-To: <q2ke1dd498f1005050716l8a56c9b1ob79a8d9aadb3c16a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2ke1dd498f1005050716l8a56c9b1ob79a8d9aadb3c16a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <59A45A06-E656-41B0-A463-AFA75471E8D6@gmail.com>

I took mine to a local small auto upholstery shop & had the owner fix one for
me & put in a new zipper, for a small fraction of that price.

John
John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/


On  5 May, 2010, at 7:16 AM, Kurtis J. wrote:

> Guys...
>
> I've had one of the front snaps (middle passenger side) pull through
> on my tonneau.  The material has actually ripped a little at the snap
> hole.  I assume I could repair it by sandwiching it between two pieces
> of material and then installing a new snap.  I would like to use
> material as close to the original tonneau as possible (black vinyl).
> Does anyone know where I can find a piece of this?  I've found once
> source online, but the smallest quantity is 36" x 50" for $75.  I
> really don't think I need more than a square foot.
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
>
> Kurt Jones
> Russellville, Arkansas
> 1963 TR4 - CT19389L
> 1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250
> www.vintagebritishcars.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Wed May  5 09:06:56 2010
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 11:06:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tonneau Repair
In-Reply-To: <q2ke1dd498f1005050716l8a56c9b1ob79a8d9aadb3c16a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2ke1dd498f1005050716l8a56c9b1ob79a8d9aadb3c16a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4BE18990.7050503@earthlink.net>

One other place you can try for a fix or for the material is a very good 
boat canvas shop.  The kind of place that makes tops from  scratch.  I 
had my 308 targa cover fixed do a snap rip by our local place and they 
did an excellent job.

Joe

Kurtis J. wrote:
> Guys...
>
> I've had one of the front snaps (middle passenger side) pull through
> on my tonneau.  The material has actually ripped a little at the snap
> hole.  I assume I could repair it by sandwiching it between two pieces
> of material and then installing a new snap.  I would like to use
> material as close to the original tonneau as possible (black vinyl).
> Does anyone know where I can find a piece of this?  I've found once
> source online, but the smallest quantity is 36" x 50" for $75.  I
> really don't think I need more than a square foot.

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Wed May  5 09:12:48 2010
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 08:12:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F1102C899@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I have been in contact with Fenner about these previously.
They do not recommend Power Twist belts for automotive use.  They are
not strong enough.
Having said that they may get you out of a bind and may work well for
quite a while, but we passed.

Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May  5 10:34:57 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 09:34:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tonneau Repair
In-Reply-To: <q2ke1dd498f1005050716l8a56c9b1ob79a8d9aadb3c16a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2ke1dd498f1005050716l8a56c9b1ob79a8d9aadb3c16a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0c0c01caec70$e69ea790$b3dbf6b0$@rr.com>

> I would like to use
> material as close to the original tonneau as possible (black vinyl).
> Does anyone know where I can find a piece of this?  

Try your local auto upholstery shop.  They may have a scrap that they would
sell you cheap.

Or, if you could get by with a smaller piece, TRF has material samples for
little or no cost.  ISTR the Sunfast sample I got was about 4" by 4".

-- Randall 

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Wed May  5 11:13:12 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 13:13:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] off-topic - fixing damaged electric motor shaft
In-Reply-To: <8CCBA6044B0984C-1164-845B@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134677@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Sorry for off-topic, but this seems down the alley for some of the listers.

I have a 1/2 hp electric motor on my belt-driven furnace blower. Last winter
the pulley loosened up and spun and rattled around doing a fair bit of damage
to the 1/2" shaft before coming off. I got a new pulley of course, but it does
not sit evenly any more and the wobble as it turns is causing a vibration in
the fan that is quite irritating. The shaft is a straight 1/2" with a flatted
section. Of course the flat is good, it is the round part of the shaft that is
chewed up. The motor is almost new and I would like to avoid buying another
one if I can find a way to smooth the surface or similar so that the pulley
sits normal to the shaft.

Does anybody have any experience with this sort of issue?

If I can save the motor, then I can buy a nice TR6 bonnet liner. If not, then
I will have quiet in the house to sit and contemplate the hidiousness of the
underside of my car's bonnet. Presently can't work due to rumbling of furnace
and snarling of wife.

Mark Hooper

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed May  5 12:15:32 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 12:15:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] off-topic - fixing damaged electric motor shaft
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134677@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134677@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <4BE1B5C4.7010000@bradakis.com>

Many folks on this list are already aware of it, but for those
who don't know there is also a shop-talk at autox.team.net list.
Questions like this are quite appropriate for that list.

Wonder if you could use a speedy sleeve of some sort to
get the pulley to seat properly?

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed May  5 12:16:39 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 12:16:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] off-topic - fixing damaged electric motor shaft
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134677@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134677@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <4BE1B607.8040906@bradakis.com>

Oops.  Forgot to include http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
in my previous response regarding the shop-talk list.

mjb.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed May  5 12:34:22 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 14:34:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
Message-ID: <2a21a.4250ec96.3913142e@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/5/2010 8:49:28 AM Central Daylight Time, 
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> >And they come in handy for bank withdrawals in the meantime.
> >
> >Dave
> 
> 
> Then you will have the cash to buy one of the fancy emergency replacment
> belts.
> 
Or gas for the get-away car.

;-)

Dave

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May  5 13:38:48 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 15:38:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tonneau Repair
In-Reply-To: <q2ke1dd498f1005050716l8a56c9b1ob79a8d9aadb3c16a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <q2ke1dd498f1005050716l8a56c9b1ob79a8d9aadb3c16a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AF269F54984E4861AC5AE204DA15A2C7@BobPC>

Any auto upholstery shop or boat canvas repair shop can easily fix it. If 
you want to tackle it yourself, a national chain like Jo-Ann Fabrics carries 
vinyl in a variety of colors.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurtis J." <tr4driver at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 10:16 AM
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tonneau Repair

> Guys...
>
> I've had one of the front snaps (middle passenger side) pull through
> on my tonneau.  The material has actually ripped a little at the snap
> hole.  I assume I could repair it by sandwiching it between two pieces
> of material and then installing a new snap.  I would like to use
> material as close to the original tonneau as possible (black vinyl).
> Does anyone know where I can find a piece of this?  I've found once
> source online, but the smallest quantity is 36" x 50" for $75.  I
> really don't think I need more than a square foot.
>
> -- 
> Sent from my mobile device
>
> Kurt Jones
> Russellville, Arkansas
> 1963 TR4 - CT19389L
> 1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250
> www.vintagebritishcars.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed May  5 13:59:52 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 15:59:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Top w/Zippered Rear Window
Message-ID: <p2l3b0049461005051259z24e117d5yed7bc0154d3ed64f@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone had a zippered rear window fit to a TR4?  Alternately, is there
a source for a top with this already in place?

This would be for the roadster TR4 (top completely removes).  I think
the convertible top for TR4As is available with the zippered rear
window.

Thanks,

Geo

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Wed May  5 15:27:09 2010
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 16:27:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Top w/Zippered Rear Window
In-Reply-To: <p2l3b0049461005051259z24e117d5yed7bc0154d3ed64f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <p2l3b0049461005051259z24e117d5yed7bc0154d3ed64f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w12E552F76E64622AF5B1FB9F40@phx.gbl>

Geo-

I know lbcarco lists them, I've thought of buying one myself the next time I
need a new top.

Randy

>
> Anyone had a zippered rear window fit to a TR4?  Alternately, is there
> a source for a top with this already in place?
>
>> Geo
>


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed May  5 17:37:07 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 19:37:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Top w/Zippered Rear Window
In-Reply-To: <0c8601caec99$4a739280$df5ab780$@rr.com>
References: <p2l3b0049461005051259z24e117d5yed7bc0154d3ed64f@mail.gmail.com>
	<0c8601caec99$4a739280$df5ab780$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <i2u3b0049461005051637sffb62374g34ba4ef9b2e93ff7@mail.gmail.com>

On 5/5/10, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> I haven't, but there are a few in the local club.  Upholstery shop up in
> Canoga Park, CA did the conversion; and even came to a club meeting to talk
> about it.
>
> But the cost was fairly high, and I rarely need a rear window anyway; so I
> found a used top with a cloudy back window and just cut the window out...

Thanks.  I too have an old top (46 years old) with the rear window out
but it is falling apart.  I use it on long trips and almost never use
the good top.

I called my usual local upholstery guy and he said he couldn't do it
(which I took to mean he didn't want to).

I did check the price of rear window plastic from our local wholesaler
and that stuff is not expensive... I may try to do something with a
piece of that and some velcro since all I really need is a way to
close it up in the unlikely event of rain.

Geo

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed May  5 17:58:27 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 19:58:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Color top picture
Message-ID: <BAY123-W403F2F99871AC88C756522BAF40@phx.gbl>

Looking for some pictures of a EZ-ON tan top on a green car. I guess it would
not HAVE to be a EZ ON.Wedge preferred but anything will do. Trying to show
the boss what that color combo would look like on her TR8.

Thanks,
Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2

From tr4driver at gmail.com  Wed May  5 19:41:04 2010
From: tr4driver at gmail.com (Kurtis)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 20:41:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tonneau Repair
In-Reply-To: <0c0c01caec70$e69ea790$b3dbf6b0$@rr.com>
References: <q2ke1dd498f1005050716l8a56c9b1ob79a8d9aadb3c16a@mail.gmail.com>
	<0c0c01caec70$e69ea790$b3dbf6b0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <000d01caecbd$319b5d00$94d21700$@com>

Thanks everyone...

I'll try to find a local upholsterer, though I'm a bit hesitant.  I haven't
had a whole lot of luck with any of them in the past.  I ended up replacing
a zipper in my Bugeye tonneau myself because I couldn't find anyone
interested in messing with it.

Kurt


> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 11:35 AM
> To: 'Triumph List'
> Subject: Re: [TR] Tonneau Repair
> 
> > I would like to use
> > material as close to the original tonneau as possible (black vinyl).
> > Does anyone know where I can find a piece of this?
> 
> Try your local auto upholstery shop.  They may have a scrap that they
> would
> sell you cheap.
> 
> Or, if you could get by with a smaller piece, TRF has material samples
> for
> little or no cost.  ISTR the Sunfast sample I got was about 4" by 4".
> 
> -- Randall

From aribert at c3net.net  Thu May  6 07:38:54 2010
From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 09:38:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] off-topic - fixing damaged electric motor shaft
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1273082402.27086.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1273082402.27086.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <b9a27ba08fa3be1e639f18b31ec1c867.squirrel@server6.glis.net>

You need bigger tools - a lathe (or a buddy that has one).  Myself, I
would remove the armature from the motor, turn down the shaft to clean up
the damage and (assuming that I already had the pulley) turn a bushing to
make up the difference btween the pulley bore and the now smaller shaft
dia.

Without that, you could try to run the motor w/o the pulley and hold a
file to it (place the file so that the shaft will pull the file *away*
from you) and knock down the high spots. Not having seen the damage, I am
guessing that the motor shaft is already a bit undersize before you even
knock down the high spots.  I think you will still have a shaft that is
undersize relative to your pulley bore and one that will not run true.




> Sorry for off-topic, but this seems down the alley for some of the
> listers.
>
> I have a 1/2 hp electric motor on my belt-driven furnace blower. Last
> winter
> the pulley loosened up and spun and rattled around doing a fair bit of
> damage
> to the 1/2" shaft before coming off. I got a new pulley of course, but it
> does
> not sit evenly any more and the wobble as it turns is causing a vibration
> in
> the fan that is quite irritating. The shaft is a straight 1/2" with a
> flatted
> section. Of course the flat is good, it is the round part of the shaft
> that is
> chewed up. The motor is almost new and I would like to avoid buying
> another
> one if I can find a way to smooth the surface or similar so that the
> pulley
> sits normal to the shaft.
>
> Does anybody have any experience with this sort of issue?
>
> If I can save the motor, then I can buy a nice TR6 bonnet liner. If not,
> then
> I will have quiet in the house to sit and contemplate the hidiousness of
> the
> underside of my car's bonnet. Presently can't work due to rumbling of
> furnace
> and snarling of wife.
>
> Mark Hooper

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May  6 08:27:57 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 07:27:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] off-topic - fixing damaged electric motor shaft
In-Reply-To: <b9a27ba08fa3be1e639f18b31ec1c867.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
References: <mailman.4.1273082402.27086.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<b9a27ba08fa3be1e639f18b31ec1c867.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
Message-ID: <004a01caed28$533b9950$0301a8c0@randall>

>  and (assuming that I already had the pulley) turn 
> a bushing to
> make up the difference btween the pulley bore and the now 
> smaller shaft dia.

Just a thought, depending on how bad the damage is : Most hobby shops will
have 1/2" od thin-wall brass tubing for a few $$.  If 15/32" will clean up
your shaft reasonably well, you could probably cut a length of brass to use
for the bushing.

> Without that, you could try to run the motor w/o the pulley and hold a
> file to it (place the file so that the shaft will pull the file *away*
> from you) 

Another way to approach this might be to grind a sharp corner onto the end
of the file, and rig a suitable support so it could be used like a lathe
tool.  I have used this approach (before I got a lathe), and while the
result probably won't be pretty, it might be serviceable.  Take your time
and make very light cuts.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May  6 08:29:03 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 07:29:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] off-topic - fixing damaged electric motor shaft
References: <mailman.4.1273082402.27086.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<b9a27ba08fa3be1e639f18b31ec1c867.squirrel@server6.glis.net> 
Message-ID: <004b01caed28$7a867f70$0301a8c0@randall>

Oops, forgot to add: If your local hobby shop doesn't have the 1/2" thin
wall brass, it's readily available on-line.  Eg,
http://www.hobbyplace.com/materials/metal.php

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May  6 09:03:14 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 11:03:14 EDT
Subject: [TR] off-topic - fixing damaged electric motor shaft
Message-ID: <3faee.76d056c8.39143432@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/6/2010 9:06:18 AM Central Daylight Time, 
aribert at c3net.net writes: 
> Without that, you could try to run the motor w/o the pulley and hold a
> file to it (place the file so that the shaft will pull the file *away*
> from you) and knock down the high spots. Not having seen the damage, I am
> guessing that the motor shaft is already a bit undersize before you even
> knock down the high spots.  I think you will still have a shaft that is
> undersize relative to your pulley bore and one that will not run true.
> 

You could try to back fill the recesses with JB Weld and then file back 
down to the origial size.  

Dave

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu May  6 10:54:00 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 16:54:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] off-topic - fixing damaged electric motor shaft
In-Reply-To: <b9a27ba08fa3be1e639f18b31ec1c867.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
Message-ID: <430312072.22834641273164840688.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- aribert at c3net.net wrote:

> Without that, you could try to run the motor w/o the pulley and hold
> a
> file to it (place the file so that the shaft will pull the file
> *away*
> from you) 

Or have a proper handle on the file and DO NOT wear a wristwatch.



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From dmericas at austin.rr.com  Thu May  6 12:58:31 2010
From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 18:58:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Top w/Zippered Rear Window
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1273168801.3965.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20100506185831.OQNXS.331332.root@hrndva-web21-z02>

I have one of the TR4 tops from lbcarco with a zippered window.

I would not recommend it.  The design is different from the OEM, AMCO, and Robbins tops, and has never fit correctly around the door openings. I used it a few times, got frustrated and bought a Robbins top that fits perfectly, but has a fixed rear window.

I'll be happy to relate the details off list.

Dean Mericas
1965 TR4
1974 2000 GTV
1976 Giulia Nuova Super 1300

> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 16:27:09 -0500
> From: Randy&Val DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Top w/Zippered Rear Window
> To: <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>, Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <BAY150-w12E552F76E64622AF5B1FB9F40 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Geo-
> 
> I know lbcarco lists them, I've thought of buying one myself the next time I
> need a new top.
> 
> Randy
> 
> >
> > Anyone had a zippered rear window fit to a TR4?  Alternately, is there
> > a source for a top with this already in place?
> >
> >> Geo

From tr4driver at gmail.com  Thu May  6 19:42:10 2010
From: tr4driver at gmail.com (Kurtis)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 20:42:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Carpet
Message-ID: <000001caed86$83b63f00$8b22bd00$@com>

Well, what started off as simple maintenance ended with me stripping the
interior of the car and deciding to replace the carpets.  I've been checking
around and have noticed a fairly large price difference in the carpets
available.  I'd like to go with a simple black loop.  Anyone have any
recommendations?  Anyone have any experience with any of the sets in the
$200 price range?

Thanks,

Kurt Jones
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4 - CT19389L
1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250
www.vintagebritishcars.com

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu May  6 20:14:25 2010
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 19:14:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Looking for a cheap manual Stag gearbox State Side.
Message-ID: <AANLkTil1cuF5YAdXh5T2B8zRdujsSwHgyD9M_bhgzeBo@mail.gmail.com>

Please let me know if you know anyone selling one.


Regards, Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Thu May  6 23:21:58 2010
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 17:21:58 +1200
Subject: [TR] Noisy brakes...
Message-ID: <BB43D7B6C0994600943E1360FCFFB107@DRESANPC>

Hi Listers from New Zealand....

        Have done just on 100 miles in the 4A that I have just put back on the
road after 4 years. Minor problem though....I replaced both the front brake
discs and the pads with new units. They squeal like there's no tomorrow, it's
a wonder you can't hear them over there! I figured that there  may be no
shims, but checked today and there is! They are .015" thick, so I figured they
should do. Am I just being just a little bit premature, and not giving them
time to bed in? I look forward, as usual to your responses.
                Trev. Hardy; Feilding, New Zealand
                 1925 Chrysler Brougham
                  1965 Triumph TR4A
                  19070 MGBGT

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May  7 05:35:05 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 07:35:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Carpet
In-Reply-To: <000001caed86$83b63f00$8b22bd00$@com>
References: <000001caed86$83b63f00$8b22bd00$@com>
Message-ID: <201005070735.06090.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday, May 06, 2010 09:42:10 pm Kurtis wrote:
> Well, what started off as simple maintenance ended with me stripping the
> interior of the car and deciding to replace the carpets.  I've been
> checking around and have noticed a fairly large price difference in the
> carpets available.  I'd like to go with a simple black loop.  Anyone have
> any recommendations?  Anyone have any experience with any of the sets in
> the $200 price range?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kurt Jones
>
Kurt,

I installed the nylon black loop from TRF on my 63. It is holding up real good 
after 3 seasons.

It was easy to install and it is easy to keep clean.

I believe gray was the original color but no one seems to make a gray that 
holds up to sunlight. It fades after awhile and turns an orange - brown color.

Cant remember the price but I most likely got it on sale during the winter 
time. But is was more than 200$.

Bob

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May  7 05:56:39 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 07:56:39 EDT
Subject: [TR] Noisy brakes...
Message-ID: <6e11.691587b7.391559f7@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/7/2010 1:01:35 AM Central Daylight Time, 
t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz writes: 
>         Have done just on 100 miles in the 4A that I have just put back 
> on the
> road after 4 years. Minor problem though....I replaced both the front 
> brake
> discs and the pads with new units. They squeal like there's no tomorrow, 
> it's
> a wonder you can't hear them over there! I figured that there  may be no
> shims, but checked today and there is! They are .015" thick, so I figured 
> they
> should do. Am I just being just a little bit premature, and not giving 
> them
> time to bed in? I look forward, as usual to your responses.
> 

Congrats on your success.  I think I've got you beat with my TR3 project, 
however.  But it's been so long I forget when it started.

I've never seen disc brakes get quieter over time.  It is usually the other 
way round.  The anti-squeel shims must be installed in the proper 
orientation.  Make sure they are not the wrong way round.  The ones I've seen have 
little arrows indicating the direction of rotation.  I don't think being on 
the other side of the equator would necessitate a change in that orientation.  
<grin>

Next I would look into anti-squeel compounds that get applied to the 
backside of the bad.  These are formulated to dampen out the squealing.  I guess 
they work.  The effect is subtle.  

Failing that you may have to look at the discs and pads.  Cheap materials 
will be more prone to this problem and better parts may solve the problem.

Good luck.

Dave

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri May  7 08:38:55 2010
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 09:38:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 vs 4A clutch piping
Message-ID: <201005070738789.SM04324@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Cognescenti listerati,

	I have a customer who is needing to re-plumb his clutch hydraulics. 
His car is a TR4, as we've determined through the years. It seems 
that what is on the car, though is 4A stuff. (lots of it)

	Using various original TR manuals, and Moss, et. al., it seems that;

	 4s used 3/16 tubing and a rubber flex hose at the slave. The 
fittings would have been a 3/8-24 male single(bubble) flare into the 
master, a length of 3/16 tube, a 3/8-24 female nut single flare, 
rubber hose with a long 3/8-24 male fitting to accommodate a nut for 
a bracket. rubber hose (8") with a 3/8-24 straight fitting requiring 
a copper gasket at the slave.

Whereas
	4As used 1/4" tubing and a stiffer kind of flex tubing a la 6s at the slave.

	Both use the same master cylinders, and hence bore diameters.

	My questions are:  1) am I correct in the above?
			
			2) In other cars, when the line diameter changes from 3/16 to 1/4 
there is a concurrent change in bore diameters of either the master, 
or the slave, or both.   Why not with the 4A, and are there 
advantages of 1 plumbing scheme over the other.

	We are thinking that while this car has many parts of both 4s and 
4As, that it would be best to make it as much a true 4 as possible, 
unless there is a compelling reason to switch to 4A clutch piping.	Pedal feel?


	Thanks for any help.

Peter C.

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri May  7 09:59:33 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:59:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A hood stick bracket placement
In-Reply-To: <696747377.24713801273247476719.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <513090274.24719081273247973391.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

What is the orientation of the hood stick bracket that attaches to the body of a TR3A - behind the seats. 
There are two horizontal holes and the third is either pointing up or down. I think the hole for the top bows should 
point up - but I'm not sure and since both sets are off, I have no good point of reference. So if someone could run out and check their 3 for me, I'd certainly appreciate it. The 4 bracket mounts vertically, so wasn' t much help. 
Thanks in advance 
Tom 
60 TR3A 
61 TR3a 
62 TR4 
73 Stag 

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri May  7 12:44:54 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 14:44:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TriumphBob is Home
Message-ID: <2651c.3b404232.3915b9a6@aol.com>

Hi Guys,
Sometimes things work out.  I was telling Bob all along that "Better  Days 
are Coming".  He kept the faith and with his substantial inner  strength, 
pure will to survive along with a little help from his friends,  he got by as 
Ava has described below.  
Thanks to all of you for giving my best Triumph companion your  support. 
Although the "Glory Years" are probably behind us now we both still  hope to 
do many more Triumph miles together before it's over @ TRA, VTR, 6-PACK  
Nationals, Roadster Factory Summer Party, Carlisle Import and Kit Car Nationals, 
 Various British Car Days, NCTA events, etc.etc.
See all of you on down the road someday,
Darrell  
 
 
3 months after this whole  nightmare started (with a call to my doctor to 
make an appointment for the next  day), Bob will be coming home!  This 
Saturday, May 1st, I will bring Bob  home to live in our house 75 days after he 
checked into the Cleveland  Clinic
 
His doctors, nurses, aides,  Physical and Occupational therapists are all 
thrilled with his recovery to this  point and Bob is feeling good!
 
 
Bob and I are so grateful for all  the visits, cards and Emails.  They have 
brightened Bob's days stuck in a  controlled environment and allowed him to 
smile when he was feeling very  low.
We hope to be able to  thank each of you in person some day, but for now, 
we ask that you please  continue the good thoughts as Bob continues his 
battle with  Leukemia.
Much love,
Ava

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri May  7 12:49:45 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 14:49:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A hood stick bracket placement
References: <696747377.24713801273247476719.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<513090274.24719081273247973391.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<014e01caee11$6b2ebbc0$418c3340$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1D845FACAA31447AA52A5F7F70D7B94C@DCS78M81>

I think you're right. Looking at my old panels the third hole is "up and 
forward". As usual, thanks for the help.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <tfansher at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 2:16 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A hood stick bracket placement


>I can't check, as they aren't mounted on either of my TR3s at the moment.
> But I'm pretty sure the third hole goes up.  A quick measurement should 
> tell
> you : measure the length of the link and check whether there is room for 
> it
> between the hole and the inner fender.  It has to pass through when
> raising/lowering the sticks, and I don't believe it will if you install 
> the
> brackets upside down.
>
> -- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  7 12:53:11 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 11:53:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Noisy brakes...
In-Reply-To: <BB43D7B6C0994600943E1360FCFFB107@DRESANPC>
References: <BB43D7B6C0994600943E1360FCFFB107@DRESANPC>
Message-ID: <015b01caee16$8b087940$a1196bc0$@rr.com>

> Am I just being just a little bit premature, and not giving
> them time to bed in?

I doubt it.  The only time I've had brake squeal get better was when they
were about to wear out.

Things that have helped for me:

1) Use a coarse file to chamfer the leading edge of the pads a bit, so it
touches the rotor at a gentle angle.
2) Use a soft alloy or composite shim between the pad & caliper piston, in
addition to the factory steel shim (if present).  My local auto parts store
sells these in a "cut to fit" version for a few dollars.
http://www.duiganbrothers.co.za/brakes/technical/anti_squeal_shim.pdf
3) Lightly sand the rotor surface, and replace the pads with new.

The various chemical treatments have never helped for me, at least not for
brakes that are already squealing.

-- Randall 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri May  7 13:02:44 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 12:02:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Thermostat Adaptor
Message-ID: <a06240802c80a12743797@[192.168.2.2]>

I have seen a few posts on members who are looking to install a 
thermostat for their electric fan.

I just received a catalog from Pace Performance
	http://www.paceperformance.com

In the catalog there is a Auto Meter Hose Adaptor, looks like it is 
made of brass, and a nice job of machining.  Anyway it will connect 
four (4) different hose sizes and had a "bung" hole for the screw in 
thermostat, even has a ground connection terminal. Hose sizes are:
	1-1/2	1-1/4	3/4	5/8
They large ones are $39.95	The small (heater hose) are $29.95 
Seems like an "elegant" solution to adapting to an electric fan 
thermostat.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From rjones at wfeca.net  Fri May  7 13:08:46 2010
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:08:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Radio
In-Reply-To: <513090274.24719081273247973391.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <513090274.24719081273247973391.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CA03A358-3C00-4FF3-B0D0-9D115AACA2F1@wfeca.net>

Folks:

I just purchased a Retro radio that is featured in Moss's TR6 catalog.  Have
any of you installed this radio in your car?  As it is so prominent  in the
TR6 catalog, one would assume that it is a perfect fit for the car.  I hope I
won't have to modify the plinth (sic?)

Thanks

From carlsereda at aol.com  Fri May  7 13:15:09 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 12:15:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 vs TR4A clutch items
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1273255202.3094.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2EAE0B10.5293.4F0B.87F2.F5AC62C972BB@aol.com>

Peter,
The 4A went to a 'diaphram' clutch (w/8"disc) versus the old-fashioned
3-finger style with 'coil springs' (w/9"disc). I believe this was to speed up
the 'action' - so it seems to me that the 4A hydraulics were sped up too. If
you have an original style TR4 clutch pressure plate you could probably use
either hydraulic system without feeling much difference (although I have
wondered myself if I could speed my original 4 clutch with 4A hydraulics - or
would I just be abusing the linkage in between?).
If you do have a TR4A clutch pressure plate installed I would stick with the
TR4A hydraulics to benefit from the faster clutching capability..
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74 .. with the faster TR4A 4into2into1 exhaust manifold..

Cognescenti listerati,

I have a customer who is needing to re-plumb his clutch hydraulics. 
His car is a TR4, as we've determined through the years. It seems 
that what is on the car, though is 4A stuff. (lots of it)

Using various original TR manuals, and Moss, et. al., it seems that;

4s used 3/16 tubing and a rubber flex hose at the slave. The 
fittings would have been a 3/8-24 male single(bubble) flare into the 
master, a length of 3/16 tube, a 3/8-24 female nut single flare, 
rubber hose with a long 3/8-24 male fitting to accommodate a nut for 
a bracket. rubber hose (8") with a 3/8-24 straight fitting requiring 
a copper gasket at the slave.

Whereas
4As used 1/4" tubing and a stiffer kind of flex tubing a la 6s at the slave.

Both use the same master cylinders, and hence bore diameters.

My questions are: 1) am I correct in the above?

2) In other cars, when the line diameter changes from 3/16 to 1/4 
there is a concurrent change in bore diameters of either the master, 
or the slave, or both. Why not with the 4A, and are there 
advantages of 1 plumbing scheme over the other.

We are thinking that while this car has many parts of both 4s and 
4As, that it would be best to make it as much a true 4 as possible, 
unless there is a compelling reason to switch to 4A clutch piping. Pedal
feel?


Thanks for any help.

Peter C.

From dkspence at telus.net  Fri May  7 13:29:02 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 13:29:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] ReTR4 carpet
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1273255202.3094.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1273255202.3094.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <22D7880C-E8E4-48B2-BB02-FED59BC892FB@telus.net>

Bob
  Are you referring to the charcoal carpet set that MOSS sells?

On 7-May-10, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
> Date: May 7, 2010 5:35:05 AM MDT (CA)
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Carpet
>
>
>
>
> I believe gray was the original color but no one seems to make a  
> gray that
> holds up to sunlight. It fades after awhile and turns an orange -  
> brown color.
>
> Bob

From kentech0822 at myfairpoint.net  Fri May  7 13:56:00 2010
From: kentech0822 at myfairpoint.net (Peter K)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:56:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Top w/Zippered Rear Window
Message-ID: <81AB8B18CFF94C04A5F7295AB992280B@KENTECHHP>

I also purchased a top from lbcarco with a zip out rear window. This is for my
3A. It took over a year to get it, during which time the price was increased
(to $465!!!) due to the decline of the US dollar, and I was charged the
difference to my card.

The edge piping around the windows is sewn upside down so, instead of folding
over the edges to hide the cut part, they sewed the cut edge on the outside
facing upwards. After finally getting around to finding the 8 hours or so to
install it, the Tenax fasteners included with the top wouldn't fit so I had to
reuse the old ones. Now it's installed and the drip lip that surrounds the
window area is so low the I have to duck my head to see out of the side
window.

I haven't purchased a single item from lbcarco since and won't again. It's
been a couple of years and the wound is still raw. I don't have the money to
buy a replacement.

btw- the one time I zipped out the window, it just blew around so much I had
to pull over and zip it back up. My wife has metastatic melanoma (skin cancer)
so the top is a MUST for us.

Shoulda woulda coulda boughta different top and had money left over.

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri May  7 14:12:39 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 16:12:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TriumphBob is Home
In-Reply-To: <2651c.3b404232.3915b9a6@aol.com>
References: <2651c.3b404232.3915b9a6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W23BBA4542EF6E5FB0EF0E8BAF60@phx.gbl>

Thats great news. Thanks for the update.



Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From Harrymague at aol.com  Fri May  7 14:13:15 2010
From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 16:13:15 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Radio
Message-ID: <27046.2546826c.3915ce5b@aol.com>

I have one I install last year and could not be happier.  It fit with  out 
any problems.  Good luck.  
Harry Mague
Beavercreek, OH
74 TR6
 
 
In a message dated 5/7/2010 4:08:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rjones at wfeca.net writes:

Folks:

I just purchased a Retro radio that is featured in  Moss's TR6 catalog.  
Have
any of you installed this radio in your  car?  As it is so prominent  in the
TR6 catalog, one would assume  that it is a perfect fit for the car.  I 
hope I
won't have to modify  the plinth  (sic?)

Thanks

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/harrymague at aol.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May  7 14:53:12 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 14:53:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Voltage Stabilizer for TR3
Message-ID: <9976642BB2FF41C988525E191934EDF9@bboffice>

Hello List,

Having some problems with erratic readings from my new sending unit recently
acquired from BPNW.  I have checked everything to be sure the connections
are tight, even ran an additional ground wire from the gauge to the dash
panel.

Still no improvement, so I wrote to BPNW and they say I should have a
Voltage Stabilizer pn=148876D mounted behind the gauges.  I don't recall
anything like this in any TR3 documentation.  When I look this part up on
the BPNW web site it shows to be an MG part, but BPNW insists this is what I
should have for the Triumph.

 

Has anyone installed one of these on a TR3?  

http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/bdd/ee/9955/Voltage%20Stabilizer
<http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/bdd/ee/9955/Voltage%20Stabilizer> 


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS 30766 L aka "Tar Baby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May  7 15:08:25 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 17:08:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] ReTR4 carpet
In-Reply-To: <22D7880C-E8E4-48B2-BB02-FED59BC892FB@telus.net>
References: <mailman.4.1273255202.3094.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<22D7880C-E8E4-48B2-BB02-FED59BC892FB@telus.net>
Message-ID: <201005071708.25585.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday, May 07, 2010 03:29:02 pm Don Spence wrote:
> Bob
>   Are you referring to the charcoal carpet set that MOSS sells?
> 
> 
Don,

Not sure about Moss's carbets but maybe someone else on the list would know.

The complaints I have heard are about the TRF original gray.

Bob

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri May  7 15:12:58 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 16:12:58 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] ReTR4 carpet
Message-ID: <1923721997.65854.1273266778339.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>

/UOBqhB: Permission denied

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri May  7 15:32:55 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri,  7 May 2010 15:32:55 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?ReTR4_carpet?=
Message-ID: <20100507213255.3B87C18763E@autox.team.net>

I have carpet from trf and it has retained its colour for  years.
Their lower trunnions fit without drama, too. Charles charges a little more, but authenticity costs. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Don Spence" <dkspence at telus.net>
Date: Fri, May 7, 2010 15:29
Subject: [TR] ReTR4 carpet
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Bob
  Are you referring to the charcoal carpet set that MOSS sells?

On 7-May-10, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
> Date: May 7, 2010 5:35:05 AM MDT (CA)
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Carpet
>
>
>
>
> I believe gray was the original color but no one seems to make a  
> gray that
> holds up to sunlight. It fades after awhile and turns an orange -  
> brown color.
>
> Bob

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  7 15:47:25 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 14:47:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 vs TR4A clutch items
In-Reply-To: <2EAE0B10.5293.4F0B.87F2.F5AC62C972BB@aol.com>
References: <mailman.5.1273255202.3094.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<2EAE0B10.5293.4F0B.87F2.F5AC62C972BB@aol.com>
Message-ID: <018401caee2e$e27dec10$a779c430$@rr.com>

> If you do have a TR4A clutch pressure plate installed I would stick
> with the
> TR4A hydraulics to benefit from the faster clutching capability..

FWIW, I have a TR4A style (same as TR6) pressure plate installed on my TR3
with stock hydraulics, and I have no complaints about how fast the clutch
is.  It seems odd to me that they would be allowing for faster (meaning
harsher) clutch operation just when they introduced IRS that was less able
to handle the shock loading caused by rapid clutch engagement (and actually
had to modify the OD for slower engagement).  My opinion is that the later
clutch design had more to do with lower cost than faster operation, but
that's just my $.02 worth.  I'm using it because my Fidanza flywheel was
only drilled for the later pattern.

I do still need to install the little bracket that I made up, to increase
the return spring tension and compensate for the thicker TR6 gearbox flange,
but that's a separate issue.

Also worth noting, perhaps; I believe the TR4A was also the introduction of
the 'self-adjusting' clutch linkage.  The clutch slave return spring was
deleted and replaced by a spring inside the slave cylinder that lightly
holds the throw-out bearing against the pressure plate all the time.  The 4A
still had the adjustable pushrod (I believe) but the need for periodic
adjustment was gone.  Later (during TR5 perhaps), the pushrod adjustment was
also deleted.

-- Randall 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  7 15:56:36 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 16:56:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Top w/Zippered Rear Window
In-Reply-To: <81AB8B18CFF94C04A5F7295AB992280B@KENTECHHP>
References: <81AB8B18CFF94C04A5F7295AB992280B@KENTECHHP>
Message-ID: <958A97F540ED4EC08D21BAE33256E8C5@ranteer.local>

I, too purchased a top from a different vendor (not lbarco), trying to save 
a few bucks.  of course, once you install a top, and realize what a lousy 
top it is, you can't return it.

I totally recommend going with robbins.  don't don't don't try to save a few 
bucks - you will totally regret it.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Peter K" <kentech0822 at myfairpoint.net>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 2:56 PM
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Top w/Zippered Rear Window

> I also purchased a top from lbcarco with a zip out rear window. This is 
> for my
> 3A. It took over a year to get it, during which time the price was 
> increased
> (to $465!!!) due to the decline of the US dollar, and I was charged the
> difference to my card.
>
> The edge piping around the windows is sewn upside down so, instead of 
> folding
> over the edges to hide the cut part, they sewed the cut edge on the 
> outside
> facing upwards. After finally getting around to finding the 8 hours or so 
> to
> install it, the Tenax fasteners included with the top wouldn't fit so I 
> had to
> reuse the old ones. Now it's installed and the drip lip that surrounds the
> window area is so low the I have to duck my head to see out of the side
> window.
>
> I haven't purchased a single item from lbcarco since and won't again. It's
> been a couple of years and the wound is still raw. I don't have the money 
> to
> buy a replacement.
>
> btw- the one time I zipped out the window, it just blew around so much I 
> had
> to pull over and zip it back up. My wife has metastatic melanoma (skin 
> cancer)
> so the top is a MUST for us.
>
> Shoulda woulda coulda boughta different top and had money left over.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May  7 16:15:48 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 18:15:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Voltage Stabilizer for TR3
In-Reply-To: <9976642BB2FF41C988525E191934EDF9@bboffice>
References: <9976642BB2FF41C988525E191934EDF9@bboffice>
Message-ID: <201005071815.48829.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday, May 07, 2010 04:53:12 pm wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Hello List,
> 
> Having some problems with erratic readings from my new sending unit
> recently acquired from BPNW.  I have checked everything to be sure the
> connections are tight, even ran an additional ground wire from the gauge
> to the dash panel.
> 
> Still no improvement, so I wrote to BPNW and they say I should have a
> Voltage Stabilizer pn=148876D mounted behind the gauges.  I don't recall
> anything like this in any TR3 documentation.  When I look this part up on
> the BPNW web site it shows to be an MG part, but BPNW insists this is what
> I should have for the Triumph.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone installed one of these on a TR3?
> 
> http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/bdd/ee/9955/Voltage%20Stabilizer
> <http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/bdd/ee/9955/Voltage%20Stabilizer>
> 
> 
> Bill Beecher
>

Bill,

The voltage stabilizer is standard equipment on TR4 and up but not on the 3.

I did install a 4 version on my 3 because I use the TR4 temperature sender and 
gauge. My fuel sensor and gauge are stock TR3 and do not use the stabilizer.

If you think you need a stabilizer, look at the TR4 wiring diagram in order to 
get instructions on wiring but I think you would need a TR4 fuel gauge.

Bob

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri May  7 16:31:23 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 18:31:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Jumping out of 2nd gear
Message-ID: <23BE2635563947DF816DEDE07CBC2E84@Edscomputer>

Lists,

TR, all synchro gearbox was jumping out of 2nd gear on deceleration. Usual
suspects like broken 2nd speed bush, incorrect bushing clearances, selector
shaft springs did not cure the problem. What did cure the problem was the
replacement of the 1/2 sliding hub and 2nd gear with a different used set.
Replacing those two parts was the only change I made and the gearbox works
perfectly, no longer jumping out of gear on deceleration.

Under a magnifying glass, I can see no appreciable difference between the
offending parts and other sets I have on hand.

So, my question to the lists is: how can you tell whether a particular
hub/gear set will cause such a problem BEFORE they're installed? What
differentiates a set with normal wear that is useable from a set that is not?
What's the test?

Ed Woods

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  7 16:37:42 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:37:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Voltage Stabilizer for TR3
In-Reply-To: <9976642BB2FF41C988525E191934EDF9@bboffice>
References: <9976642BB2FF41C988525E191934EDF9@bboffice>
Message-ID: <018501caee35$e8ac3e00$ba04ba00$@rr.com>

> Still no improvement, so I wrote to BPNW and they say I should have a
> Voltage Stabilizer pn=148876D mounted behind the gauges.  

They are wrong, assuming you are talking about the stock TR3 setup.  The
voltage stabilizer started with the TR4 gauge set.  The TR3 used a
"balanced" fuel gauge that does not require a voltage stabilizer (and will
not work correctly if one is installed), while the TR4 used "hot wire" fuel
and temperature gauges that require a stabilizer for proper operation.

BTW, the fuel sender is the opposite, electrically, between TR3 and TR4.
Apparently they don't know that.  My next step would be to check some
resistance readings to be sure you have the correct sender.  The proper TR3
sender will read nearly zero at empty and somewhere between 70 to 100 ohms
(I forget the number offhand) at full.  The TR4 sender is just the opposite:
nearly zero at full.

You might want to read through Barney Gaylord's excellent article at
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_06.htm

Although not quite identical, the TR3 fuel gauge is very similar to the MGA
gauge.

-- Randall

From markvaden at gmail.com  Fri May  7 16:59:35 2010
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:59:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] ReTR4 carpet
In-Reply-To: <20100507213255.3B87C18763E@autox.team.net>
References: <20100507213255.3B87C18763E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <m2g285b8a861005071559n6304578bw6c04b52258e420c3@mail.gmail.com>

I have the charcoal carpets from the Roadster factory, and they
oranged within 1 year.

-Mark

On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 2:32 PM, spook01 at comcast.net <spook01 at comcast.net>
wrote:
> I have carpet from trf and it has retained its colour for  years.
> Their lower trunnions fit without drama, too. Charles charges a little more,
but authenticity costs.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Don Spence" <dkspence at telus.net>
> Date: Fri, May 7, 2010 15:29
> Subject: [TR] ReTR4 carpet
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
> Bob
>  Are you referring to the charcoal carpet set that MOSS sells?
>
> On 7-May-10, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
>> From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
>> Date: May 7, 2010 5:35:05 AM MDT (CA)
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Carpet
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I believe gray was the original color but no one seems to make a
>> gray that
>> holds up to sunlight. It fades after awhile and turns an orange -
>> brown color.
>>
>> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/markvaden at gmail.com

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Fri May  7 17:34:16 2010
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 19:34:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 vs 4A clutch piping
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1273255202.3094.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1273255202.3094.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <964C239D-E54D-4EE0-8B66-A22DADA02CEB@mgcarclub.com>

I have a 4 and didn't know there were differences, but the pressure  
plate on the TR4 is the coil spring type and the TR4A - 6 uses the  
diaphragm spring. Maybe that figures into the change.

On May 7, 2010, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> From: Peter Caldwell <peter at nosimport.com>
> Date: May 7, 2010 10:38:55 AM EDT
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR4 vs 4A clutch piping
>
>
> Cognescenti listerati,
>
> 	I have a customer who is needing to re-plumb his clutch  
> hydraulics. His car is a TR4, as we've determined through the  
> years. It seems that what is on the car, though is 4A stuff. (lots  
> of it)
>
> 	Using various original TR manuals, and Moss, et. al., it seems that;
>
> 	 4s used 3/16 tubing and a rubber flex hose at the slave. The  
> fittings would have been a 3/8-24 male single(bubble) flare into  
> the master, a length of 3/16 tube, a 3/8-24 female nut single  
> flare, rubber hose with a long 3/8-24 male fitting to accommodate a  
> nut for a bracket. rubber hose (8") with a 3/8-24 straight fitting  
> requiring a copper gasket at the slave.
>
> Whereas
> 	4As used 1/4" tubing and a stiffer kind of flex tubing a la 6s at  
> the slave.
>
> 	Both use the same master cylinders, and hence bore diameters.
>
> 	My questions are:  1) am I correct in the above?
> 			
> 			2) In other cars, when the line diameter changes from 3/16 to  
> 1/4 there is a concurrent change in bore diameters of either the  
> master, or the slave, or both.   Why not with the 4A, and are there  
> advantages of 1 plumbing scheme over the other.
>
> 	We are thinking that while this car has many parts of both 4s and  
> 4As, that it would be best to make it as much a true 4 as possible,  
> unless there is a compelling reason to switch to 4A clutch piping.	 
> Pedal feel?

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri May  7 18:39:51 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri,  7 May 2010 18:39:51 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?ReTR4_carpet?=
Message-ID: <20100508003951.EC284187883@autox.team.net>

Hmm. Maybe they changed venders. Mine are nearly five years old, and good.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Mark Vaden" <markvaden at gmail.com>
Date: Fri, May 7, 2010 17:59
Subject: [TR] ReTR4 carpet
To: "spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net>
Cc: "Don Spence" <dkspence at telus.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>


I have the charcoal carpets from the Roadster factory, and they
oranged within 1 year.

-Mark

On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 2:32 PM, spook01 at comcast.net <spook01 at comcast.net> wrote:
> I have carpet from trf and it has retained its colour for B years.
> Their lower trunnions fit without drama, too. Charles charges a little more, but authenticity costs.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Don Spence" <dkspence at telus.net>
> Date: Fri, May 7, 2010 15:29
> Subject: [TR] ReTR4 carpet
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
> Bob
> B Are you referring to the charcoal carpet set that MOSS sells?
>
> On 7-May-10, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
>> From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
>> Date: May 7, 2010 5:35:05 AM MDT (CA)
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Carpet
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I believe gray was the original color but no one seems to make a
>> gray that
>> holds up to sunlight. It fades after awhile and turns an orange -
>> brown color.
>>
>> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation B $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation B $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/markvaden at gmail.com

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri May  7 19:42:49 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 21:42:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>

I'm seeing silicone brake fluid leaking from my PWDA. It is coming up from the
well surrounding the electrical contacts on the switch housing. This is with
the car just sitting there. I clear it off and it is back filled up the next
morning. Is this indicative of finished o-rings on the PWDA shuttle, or the
switch housing itself? Reparable? The switch is $50 from TRF while the body of
the unit is unavailable. It still seems to work (I guess no light is good). I
like to keep my original parts if at all possible.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Fri May  7 20:49:52 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 22:49:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <8CCBC7044BD2150-2170-1ADC4@webmail-d057.sysops.aol.com>

 Mark,

If you go to the Buckeye Triumphs web site they show a nice exploded view of
the part.

Go here:

http://buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/MCPDWA/MC.htm

Scroll down the page and you will see a picture of the piston and see where
the O rings sit.  There is no sealing that is supposed to happen with the
switch that screws into the top as it is not supposed to have any fluid in
that part of the PDWA.  Replacing the O rings will make it dry again.  Not my
best job of explaining things coherently but the link above does a much better
job.

Cheers,

Aaron






-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May 7, 2010 9:42 pm
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak


I'm seeing silicone brake fluid leaking from my PWDA. It is coming up from
the
well surrounding the electrical contacts on the switch housing. This is with
the car just sitting there. I clear it off and it is back filled up the next
morning. Is this indicative of finished o-rings on the PWDA shuttle, or the
switch housing itself? Reparable? The switch is $50 from TRF while the body
of
the unit is unavailable. It still seems to work (I guess no light is good). I
like to keep my original parts if at all possible.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri May  7 20:53:22 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 22:53:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak
In-Reply-To: <8CCBC7044BD2150-2170-1ADC4@webmail-d057.sysops.aol.com>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>,
	<8CCBC7044BD2150-2170-1ADC4@webmail-d057.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D9@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Thanks Aaron:

Another part to re-build. Oh joy, oh rupture...

Best,

Mark
________________________________
From: acekraut11 at aol.com [acekraut11 at aol.com]
Sent: May 7, 2010 10:49 PM
To: Mark Hooper; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak


Mark,

If you go to the Buckeye Triumphs web site they show a nice exploded view of
the part.

Go here:

http://buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/MCPDWA/MC.htm

Scroll down the page and you will see a picture of the piston and see where
the O rings sit.  There is no sealing that is supposed to happen with the
switch that screws into the top as it is not supposed to have any fluid in
that part of the PDWA.  Replacing the O rings will make it dry again.  Not my
best job of explaining things coherently but the link above does a much better
job.

Cheers,

Aaron


-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May 7, 2010 9:42 pm
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak


I'm seeing silicone brake fluid leaking from my PWDA. It is coming up from
the

well surrounding the electrical contacts on the switch housing. This is with

the car just sitting there. I clear it off and it is back filled up the next

morning. Is this indicative of finished o-rings on the PWDA shuttle, or the

switch housing itself? Reparable? The switch is $50 from TRF while the body
of

the unit is unavailable. It still seems to work (I guess no light is good). I

like to keep my original parts if at all possible.



Mark Hooper

1972 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  7 21:04:11 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 20:04:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <02cd01caee5b$22a84c50$0301a8c0@randall>

> Is this indicative of finished o-rings on the PWDA 
> shuttle, or the
> switch housing itself?

It's the seals on the shuttle.  The switch is not designed to seal against
fluid at all.

> Reparable? 

Probably, but depends somewhat on which PDWA you have, and what lengths you
are willing to go to.  Rebuilding the later type PDWA is covered at the
bottom of the article at
http://tinyurl.com/272gx2j

I've attached an article on one method of rebuilding the earlier type (which
of course won't make it through the list).

Randall

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of PDWA Piston.pdf]

From tr6parts at charter.net  Fri May  7 21:25:35 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 23:25:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <E898E6FFEEDD4ACE928E1788CF5C64A8@Alan>

The two rubber o-rings inside need replacing.

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 9:42 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak


> I'm seeing silicone brake fluid leaking from my PWDA. It is coming up from 
> the
> well surrounding the electrical contacts on the switch housing. This is 
> with
> the car just sitting there. I clear it off and it is back filled up the 
> next
> morning. Is this indicative of finished o-rings on the PWDA shuttle, or 
> the
> switch housing itself? Reparable? The switch is $50 from TRF while the 
> body of
> the unit is unavailable. It still seems to work (I guess no light is 
> good). I
> like to keep my original parts if at all possible.
>
> Mark Hooper
> 1972 TR6
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri May  7 21:27:36 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 23:27:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <4BE4A1E8.5648.38F96CB6@localhost>

On 7 May 2010 at 21:42, Mark Hooper wrote:

> Is this indicative of finished o-rings on the PWDA shuttle, or
> the switch housing itself? Reparable?

If I'm not mistaken, the PDWA is the same for all the Triumphs, no?  
The inside of the housing is nothing special, just an O-ring or two 
on a plunger if I recall right.  If it is only one it has fluif on 
both sides, so it could leak all it wants and the only result would 
be that the PDWA doesn't actually A the W like it should when a PD 
occurs.  If it has two then a leak internally could allow fluif to 
get to the space between the O-rings and hence leak from the switch.  
It's easy to fix in either case.

BTW, that isn't really a switch.  It is merely a electrical terminal, 
a place to plug the wire.  When the plunger inside the PDWA moves to 
one side or the other it grounds the inside of the electrical 
terminal and thus completes a circuit to ground.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  7 22:59:42 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 21:59:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak
In-Reply-To: <4BE4A1E8.5648.38F96CB6@localhost>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<4BE4A1E8.5648.38F96CB6@localhost>
Message-ID: <02df01caee6b$4589f1a0$0301a8c0@randall>

> BTW, that isn't really a switch.  It is merely a electrical terminal, 
> a place to plug the wire.  When the plunger inside the PDWA moves to 
> one side or the other it grounds the inside of the electrical 
> terminal and thus completes a circuit to ground.

Sure sounds like a switch to me. From
http://www.thefreedictionary.com/switch

switch - n
5.  A device used to break or open an electric circuit or to divert current
from one conductor to another.

-- Randall

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat May  8 06:01:58 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 08:01:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <F4A75C1767BE4A25B5B4BCC6AFC82D4D@BobPC>

Moss Motors has a great selection of video posted on YouTube including this 
one on the PDWA

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oI2yrRCUVI&feature=related

http://www.mossmotors.com/sitegraphics/pages/mosstv/mosstv_clutch.html

It explains your problem and how to fix it.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 9:42 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak

> I'm seeing silicone brake fluid leaking from my PWDA. It is coming up from 
> the
> well surrounding the electrical contacts on the switch housing. This is 
> with
> the car just sitting there. I clear it off and it is back filled up the 
> next
> morning. Is this indicative of finished o-rings on the PWDA shuttle, or 
> the
> switch housing itself? Reparable? The switch is $50 from TRF while the 
> body of
> the unit is unavailable. It still seems to work (I guess no light is 
> good). I
> like to keep my original parts if at all possible.
>
> Mark Hooper
> 1972 TR6
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat May  8 06:55:31 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 08:55:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak
In-Reply-To: <02df01caee6b$4589f1a0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <4BE4A1E8.5648.38F96CB6@localhost>
Message-ID: <4BE52703.12479.3B015E6D@localhost>

On 7 May 2010 at 21:59, Randall wrote:

> Sure sounds like a switch to me. From
> http://www.thefreedictionary.com/switch

Let me re-phrase my statement.  It has no electrical parts inside, no 
points which open or close.  It *is* one of the points, nothing more.

Of course, I could be misunderestimating what it contains.  It's been 
a while since I did mine.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  8 08:13:56 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 07:13:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak
In-Reply-To: <4BE52703.12479.3B015E6D@localhost>
References: <4BE4A1E8.5648.38F96CB6@localhost>
	<4BE52703.12479.3B015E6D@localhost>
Message-ID: <038801caeeb8$b2707cb0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Let me re-phrase my statement.  It has no electrical parts inside, no 
> points which open or close.  It *is* one of the points, nothing more.

True, it's just a spring-loaded pin that forms one of the contacts.
However, at least on the ones I've seen, there is a spring-loaded sliding
joint between the moving pin and the terminal for the harness wire, which
could fail to conduct and make the "switch" electrically defective.

None of which has anything to do with it leaking fluif <G>

Randall

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat May  8 14:47:30 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 20:47:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil Pan Gasket
In-Reply-To: <038801caeeb8$b2707cb0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <11571788.27129441273351650857.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

You know, in war there are lots of smoking guns?  Well, chasing an oil leak in a TR3A is a bit like that.  Smoking guns everywhere....

I put on a new alloy valve cover gasket, and have to say that I love that thing.  The engine even seems to run quieter.  With just the cork gasket, it leaks nary a drop now.  As a committed rumpled person, I only do style when my wife forces me.  This cover, plus the wooden steering wheel, add panache.

But...the car still leaks, clearly seeping from the oil pan.  So spent the morning jacking it up on blocks as high as I could get it (have a garage now, making the experience much more pleasant).  Pulled the oil pan.

Uhm, what was I thinking?  

When I rebuilt the engine about 5 years ago, I put a paper gasket on, not a rubberized cork one.  I thought I had a Payen set for the whole engine, but Payen, reputed to be the best, wouldn't have had a paper gasket, would it?  Anyway, to boot, the oil pan is as warped around the bolt holes as y'all warned they were likely to be, something I didn't think/know to check back then.  

Another little surprise was the condition of the interior of the oil pan.  It was rusting even under a constant bath of oil.  Dunno if the magnet on the plug plucked it out.  So am soaking it in phosphoric acid to fix that.  Have two TRF cork gaskets, but am not inclined to just use one of them instead of the two I'd planned.  

Next step is to make some sort of jig for the bench vise, maybe press most of the warp out around the bolt holes, if I can.

Cheers!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A 
New Hampshire

From dkspence at telus.net  Sat May  8 15:46:58 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 15:46:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] Dumbfounded was TR4 Carpet gray to orange etc.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10283.1273268783.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.10283.1273268783.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <60D5E334-1B63-4329-8B90-AAD09996883F@telus.net>

TRF sent out it's latest weekend sale on interiors so I started  
getting serious on ordering a new interior.

My Car is now Westminster blue (darker than Royal Blue) and originally  
had a black interior.  One of my buddies has an MGA Twin Cam done up  
in a dark blue with a grey interior from Moss. I love it so went  
looking for an equivalent for my TR4Asa.   TRF doesn't offer grey (or  
gray) so off to the MOSS site I went.

Charcoal carpet set? check
Grey panel and vinyl trim set? check
grey rear seat kit? check
grey front seat kit?  NADA!   (Yes, I called and asked)

Me? Dumbfounded!

Beats me how they expect to sell the rest of the interior without a  
seat kit.

Peter?

Anyone know of a source?


On 7-May-10, at 3:46 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> ReTR4 carpet

From dwillner at ptd.net  Sat May  8 18:24:50 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 20:24:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pre-bent brake pipe suppliers?
Message-ID: <1CDB9EDDB0454DF69B1270088505042A@valued9cfc0b6f>

Does any of the big three, or anyone else, sell pre-bent brake pipe?  Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA Victor Special

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat May  8 18:28:33 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 18:28:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil Pan Gasket
In-Reply-To: <11571788.27129441273351650857.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <038801caeeb8$b2707cb0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<11571788.27129441273351650857.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4673717E23A748469BD75F89ACAEBC87@bboffice>

Terry,
I have an alloy pan but we just used RTV, available at your FLAPS, and no
gasket.  Nary a leak... I wish I could say the same for the new Moss rear
main seal!

It is vital that you get the warp beat out of your pan before re-installing,
but the RTV does help to fill some of the gap.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS 30766 L aka "Tar Baby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 2:48 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil Pan Gasket

You know, in war there are lots of smoking guns?  Well, chasing an oil leak
in a TR3A is a bit like that.  Smoking guns everywhere....

I put on a new alloy valve cover gasket, and have to say that I love that
thing.  The engine even seems to run quieter.  With just the cork gasket, it
leaks nary a drop now.  As a committed rumpled person, I only do style when
my wife forces me.  This cover, plus the wooden steering wheel, add panache.

But...the car still leaks, clearly seeping from the oil pan.  So spent the
morning jacking it up on blocks as high as I could get it (have a garage
now, making the experience much more pleasant).  Pulled the oil pan.

Uhm, what was I thinking?  

When I rebuilt the engine about 5 years ago, I put a paper gasket on, not a
rubberized cork one.  I thought I had a Payen set for the whole engine, but
Payen, reputed to be the best, wouldn't have had a paper gasket, would it?
Anyway, to boot, the oil pan is as warped around the bolt holes as y'all
warned they were likely to be, something I didn't think/know to check back
then.  

Another little surprise was the condition of the interior of the oil pan.
It was rusting even under a constant bath of oil.  Dunno if the magnet on
the plug plucked it out.  So am soaking it in phosphoric acid to fix that.
Have two TRF cork gaskets, but am not inclined to just use one of them
instead of the two I'd planned.  

Next step is to make some sort of jig for the bench vise, maybe press most
of the warp out around the bolt holes, if I can.

Cheers!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sat May  8 18:48:59 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 20:48:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak
In-Reply-To: <F4A75C1767BE4A25B5B4BCC6AFC82D4D@BobPC>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>,
	<F4A75C1767BE4A25B5B4BCC6AFC82D4D@BobPC>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335DE@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Thanks all for the detailed and helpful replies. That video was pretty
definitive about the issue (on top of the listers' vers specific data) I'm
tracking down the last wierd leaks around the car. This one seems to have come
up starting last season. I wonder if it has been exacerbated by switching to
Silicone which I did a couple of years back. Anyway, off to hunt more
o-rings.

Cheers,

Mark


________________________________________
From: Bob Danielson [75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org]
Sent: May 8, 2010 8:01 AM
To: Mark Hooper; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak

Moss Motors has a great selection of video posted on YouTube including this
one on the PDWA

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oI2yrRCUVI&feature=related

http://www.mossmotors.com/sitegraphics/pages/mosstv/mosstv_clutch.html

It explains your problem and how to fix it.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 9:42 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 PWDA leak

> I'm seeing silicone brake fluid leaking from my PWDA. It is coming up from
> the
> well surrounding the electrical contacts on the switch housing. This is
> with
> the car just sitting there. I clear it off and it is back filled up the
> next
> morning. Is this indicative of finished o-rings on the PWDA shuttle, or
> the
> switch housing itself? Reparable? The switch is $50 from TRF while the
> body of
> the unit is unavailable. It still seems to work (I guess no light is
> good). I
> like to keep my original parts if at all possible.
>
> Mark Hooper
> 1972 TR6

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Sat May  8 19:22:21 2010
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 13:22:21 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR4A gear...
Message-ID: <9ADD7F0D185844ABA8A34E151C442DD5@DRESANPC>

Hi listers.....
        Does anybody know where I could obtain a 4A-style belt buckle please?
I've got  a "4" stylt, with the shield, but as I have a 4A, I thought that
oneshould dress more appropriately!!.
      As usual, I look forward to your replies...

            TIA.
              Trev. Hardy.....Feilding. New Zealand
               1925 Chrysler Brougham; 1965 TR4A: 1970 MGBGT

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat May  8 21:12:11 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 23:12:11 EDT
Subject: [TR] Pre-bent brake pipe suppliers?
Message-ID: <6ae17.11142c3d.3917820b@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/8/2010 8:06:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dwillner at ptd.net writes: 
> Does any of the big three, or anyone else, sell pre-bent brake pipe?  
> Thanks
> 
Classic Tube sells in either steel or stainless.  

http://www.classictube.com/

Most of their stuff fits very well.

Dave

From jeffn at msystech.com  Sat May  8 22:10:46 2010
From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 00:10:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Woodhead Front Shocks for TR6
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335DE@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>,
	<F4A75C1767BE4A25B5B4BCC6AFC82D4D@BobPC>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335DE@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <F3D1D63146AA4AEE976DE129196E0CC8@pistol>

I was replacing the front bushings and springs on my '72 TR6. Of course, I 
had to remove the shocks and found that they were made by "Woodhead" . Never 
heard of them. So, I went on the net and found that they were made in 
England. Were they  the the original shocks? Don't think so, since the car 
didn't ride like they were worn. Anyone ever heard of Woodhead? Also, I do 
want to replace them. But, don't want to spend over $50 each. BPNW lists a 
KYB for about $46. Would like but that it takes a week to arrive at my door. 
Anyone know the model KYB that BPNW sells?

Thanks,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6 

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Sun May  9 02:13:16 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 10:13:16 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR4 vs TR4A clutch items
References: <mailman.5.1273255202.3094.triumphs@autox.team.net><2EAE0B10.5293.4F0B.87F2.F5AC62C972BB@aol.com>
	<018401caee2e$e27dec10$a779c430$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1E81E9FBACE54032AE2CD25DB226AA8D@Study>

Yes, my late 4A has the clutch actuating rod adjustable. I have sometimes 
idly wondered why I never seemed to have to adjust the clutch in service!
Blesss the list and all who write in it!

David Brister
1967 TR4A
CTC 77785 O 


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From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Sun May  9 02:40:35 2010
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 20:40:35 +1200
Subject: [TR] 4A brakes...
Message-ID: <C59EA8AF03F343118C4FB9FA47CB0D10@DRESANPC>

Hi  Listers...
            Yesterday I took off the brake pads, just to make sure they were
all good. They were, so after measuring the fitted shims, .015", I refitted
everything as per. Today I went for a drive with my wife, and blow me down, NO
NOISES!!!. Go figure.....
            Cheers....Trev., FDG,, NZ

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun May  9 04:11:49 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun,  9 May 2010 04:11:49 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?b?VFI0QSBnZWFyLi4u?=
Message-ID: <20100509101149.D19D0187643@autox.team.net>

Where can I get the enameled tr4 buckle?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "T S Hardy" <t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz>
Date: Sat, May 8, 2010 21:22
Subject: [TR] TR4A gear...
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>

Hi listers.....
        Does anybody know where I could obtain a 4A-style belt buckle please?
I've got  a "4" stylt, with the shield, but as I have a 4A, I thought that
oneshould dress more appropriately!!.
      As usual, I look forward to your replies...

            TIA.
              Trev. Hardy.....Feilding. New Zealand
               1925 Chrysler Brougham; 1965 TR4A: 1970 MGBGT

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun May  9 04:14:45 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun,  9 May 2010 04:14:45 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Woodhead_Front_Shocks_for_TR6?=
Message-ID: <20100509101446.4A61C187643@autox.team.net>

While we are on the subject of suspension parts...
Who sells (in the us) a good front sway bar for the early tr4?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Jeff Nathanson" <jeffn at msystech.com>
Date: Sun, May 9, 2010 00:10
Subject: [TR] Woodhead Front Shocks for TR6
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

I was replacing the front bushings and springs on my '72 TR6. Of course, I had to remove the shocks and found that they were made by "Woodhead" . Never heard of them. So, I went on the net and found that they were made in England. Were they  the the original shocks? Don't think so, since the car didn't ride like they were worn. Anyone ever heard of Woodhead? Also, I do want to replace them. But, don't want to spend over $50 each. BPNW lists a KYB for about $46. Would like but that it takes a week to arrive at my door. Anyone know the model KYB that BPNW sells?

Thanks,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6 
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From djsforza at gmail.com  Sun May  9 05:44:46 2010
From: djsforza at gmail.com (Don Sforza)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 07:44:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Woodhead Front Shocks for TR6
In-Reply-To: <F3D1D63146AA4AEE976DE129196E0CC8@pistol>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<F4A75C1767BE4A25B5B4BCC6AFC82D4D@BobPC>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335DE@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<F3D1D63146AA4AEE976DE129196E0CC8@pistol>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikDj0znvvI8QFNmL_yZ4ulyYJSCjAR8ufeLjJSQ@mail.gmail.com>

Early on, Woodhead Shocks  (OE) were sold by TRF. I  bought a set from my
TR4 in the late 80's

On Sun, May 9, 2010 at 12:10 AM, Jeff Nathanson <jeffn at msystech.com> wrote:

> I was replacing the front bushings and springs on my '72 TR6. Of course, I
> had to remove the shocks and found that they were made by "Woodhead" . Never
> heard of them. So, I went on the net and found that they were made in
> England. Were they  the the original shocks? Don't think so, since the car
> didn't ride like they were worn. Anyone ever heard of Woodhead? Also, I do
> want to replace them. But, don't want to spend over $50 each. BPNW lists a
> KYB for about $46. Would like but that it takes a week to arrive at my door.
> Anyone know the model KYB that BPNW sells?
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff N.
> '72 TR6
>  _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/djsforza at gmail.com

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun May  9 07:47:26 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 09:47:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Woodhead Front Shocks for TR6
In-Reply-To: <F3D1D63146AA4AEE976DE129196E0CC8@pistol>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335DE@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<F3D1D63146AA4AEE976DE129196E0CC8@pistol>
Message-ID: <201005090947.27430.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, May 09, 2010 12:10:46 am Jeff Nathanson wrote:
> I was replacing the front bushings and springs on my '72 TR6. Of course, I
> had to remove the shocks and found that they were made by "Woodhead" .
> Never heard of them. So, I went on the net and found that they were made
> in England. Were they  the the original shocks? Don't think so, since the
> car didn't ride like they were worn. Anyone ever heard of Woodhead? Also,
> I do want to replace them. But, don't want to spend over $50 each. BPNW
> lists a KYB for about $46. Would like but that it takes a week to arrive
> at my door. Anyone know the model KYB that BPNW sells?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jeff N.
> '72 TR6
> 
Jeff,

It is my understanding that either Woodhead or Armstrong front shocks were 
installed on the TR4A, TR250 and TR6.

I sourced a NOS set of Woodhead shocks for my 72 6 project. I have the old 
shocks and will have to take a look to see if I can determine their 
manufacturer. 

Bob

From blanoway at shaw.ca  Sun May  9 10:06:47 2010
From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 11:06:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] setting TR6 carb mixture with a CO exhaust gas tester
Message-ID: <72F5D4B3D11D4802AEB2B36CB8417610@Lanowaylaptop>

Im about to try to set the mixture on my 1973 TR6 ZS carbs with an exhaust
gas analyzer that measures %CO.  The emission data plate for 1973 recommends
between 0.5 and 2.5% CO.  The emission gear has long ago been stripped from
my engine, so Im aiming for an optimum performance mixture rather than an
emissions setting.  Considering this, does anyone on the list have any
advice on the %CO reading I should aim for when setting the main jet mixture
on my carbs at idle - or any other general comments and/or advice when it
comes to using an exhaust gas analyzer?

I have a split Ansa exhaust system all the way back from the carbs so I
should be able to measure and then set the mixture of each carb
individually.

Thanks much in advance,

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun May  9 11:47:54 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 17:47:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] LAST oil leak question
In-Reply-To: <201005090947.27430.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <1748468.27319011273427274877.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Leaks from the valve cover and sump cover are all fixed.  Whoo Hoo!

Only one remains, and I am puzzled.  It for all the world seems to be dripping from the splice joint on the steering wheel shaft.  It didn't leak there until I topped off the box through the little hole in the cover tube.  Does this make sense?  Or should I be looking for some invisible spray from the oil guage line, something like that (albeit I've looked hard with the engine running and  the only drip comes from the steering shaft).

Oh, it's nice to park in the garage on not have to lay a plywood down!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667
New Hampshire

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Sun May  9 12:02:52 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 20:02:52 +0200
Subject: [TR] Woodhead Front Shocks for TR6
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local><F4A75C1767BE4A25B5B4BCC6AFC82D4D@BobPC><7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335DE@CMS01.winhosting.local><F3D1D63146AA4AEE976DE129196E0CC8@pistol>
	<AANLkTikDj0znvvI8QFNmL_yZ4ulyYJSCjAR8ufeLjJSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E9F6A90F6BF3499C87141FC9E1DFB17A@Study>

The original front shocks on my 4A were Armstrongs. I replaced them with 
Armstrongs from Moss

David Brister 


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From mmarr at notwires.com  Sun May  9 12:15:40 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 13:15:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Woodhead Front Shocks for TR6
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335D6@CMS01.winhosting.local>,
	<F4A75C1767BE4A25B5B4BCC6AFC82D4D@BobPC><7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335DE@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<F3D1D63146AA4AEE976DE129196E0CC8@pistol>
Message-ID: <FB02127C2E044462AC3DE796BC024C05@trigeni.com>

Looks like Woodhead is still araound as part of the ever-expanding (and 
always surprising) Thyssen-Krupp empire:

http://www.thyssenkrupp-technologies.com/en/standorte/detail.html&orga_id=801210

I seem to recall that, back in the 60s when I still lived in England, 
Woodhead were looked upon as an upgrade over the standard Armstrongs, but I 
could be wrong on that count.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Nathanson" <jeffn at msystech.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 11:10 PM
Subject: [TR] Woodhead Front Shocks for TR6


>I was replacing the front bushings and springs on my '72 TR6. Of course, I 
>had to remove the shocks and found that they were made by "Woodhead" . 
>Never heard of them. So, I went on the net and found that they were made in 
>England. Were they  the the original shocks? Don't think so, since the car 
>didn't ride like they were worn. Anyone ever heard of Woodhead? Also, I do 
>want to replace them. But, don't want to spend over $50 each. BPNW lists a 
>KYB for about $46. Would like but that it takes a week to arrive at my 
>door. Anyone know the model KYB that BPNW sells?
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff N.
> '72 TR6
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun May  9 13:34:11 2010
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 15:34:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A IRS Front Suspension Question
Message-ID: <AB76C2D8D66F4A4CAED9339D1985E4B1@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
I have been going over my TR4A IRS chassis to make sure I have everything
connected, cotter-pinned, etc. before I drop the tub back on it and I am
having a memory loss moment here. Can anybody please confirm that the upper
wishbone bracket marked "L" goes on the front driver side (left hand drive
car) as you sit in the driver seat?? If not, I have them switched.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
1967 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Sun May  9 13:57:28 2010
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 12:57:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pre-bent brake pipe suppliers?
In-Reply-To: <1CDB9EDDB0454DF69B1270088505042A@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <1CDB9EDDB0454DF69B1270088505042A@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <l2ocd09b7f11005091257j5cc7c813z2f638986ccd1fa09@mail.gmail.com>

TRF should be supplying TR4 sets as I gave them my old pipes a year or so
ago.
John Howard

On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 5:24 PM, davewillner <dwillner at ptd.net> wrote:

> Does any of the big three, or anyone else, sell pre-bent brake pipe?
>  Thanks
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg, PA
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA Victor Special
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun May  9 14:49:58 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 13:49:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Woodhead Front Shocks for TR6
Message-ID: <48955.93326.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I bought some Woodhead shocks for my TR3 from TRF in the late 90's and
they were made in India. No complaints about them.
     Bill in Tehachapi
From: "Jeff Nathanson" <jeffn at msystech.com>
Subject: [TR] Woodhead Front Shocks for TR6
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F3D1D63146AA4AEE976DE129196E0CC8 at pistol>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original

I was replacing the front bushings and springs on my '72 TR6. Of course, I 
had to remove the shocks and found that they were made by "Woodhead" . Never 
heard of them. So, I went on the net and found that they were made in 
England. Were they  the the original shocks? Don't think so, since the car 
didn't ride like they were worn. Anyone ever heard of Woodhead? Also, I do 
want to replace them. But, don't want to spend over $50 each. BPNW lists a 
KYB for about $46. Would like but that it takes a week to arrive at my door. 
Anyone know the model KYB that BPNW sells?

Thanks,

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun May  9 15:19:54 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 17:19:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] 4A brakes...
In-Reply-To: <C59EA8AF03F343118C4FB9FA47CB0D10@DRESANPC>
References: <C59EA8AF03F343118C4FB9FA47CB0D10@DRESANPC>
Message-ID: <8CCBDD480C1EDEA-103C-E749@webmail-m040.sysops.aol.com>

 Nothing succeeds like success.  Enjoy.

Dave






-----Original Message-----
From: T S Hardy <t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz>
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, May 9, 2010 3:40 am
Subject: [TR] 4A brakes...


Hi  Listers...
            Yesterday I took off the brake pads, just to make sure they were
all good. They were, so after measuring the fitted shims, .015", I refitted
everything as per. Today I went for a drive with my wife, and blow me down,
NO
NOISES!!!. Go figure.....
            Cheers....Trev., FDG,, NZ

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun May  9 15:42:57 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 17:42:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A IRS Front Suspension Question
In-Reply-To: <AB76C2D8D66F4A4CAED9339D1985E4B1@DaveLaptop>
References: <AB76C2D8D66F4A4CAED9339D1985E4B1@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <8CCBDD7B926FBBE-103C-E967@webmail-m040.sysops.aol.com>

I have been going over my TR4A IRS chassis to make sure I have everything
connected, cotter-pinned, etc. before I drop the tub back on it and I am
having a memory loss moment here. Can anybody please confirm that the upper
wishbone bracket marked "L" goes on the front driver side (left hand drive
car) as you sit in the driver seat?? If not, I have them switched.





The shorter arm goes towards the rear.  Whether that puts the R or L on top or
bottom I forget.  But Right and Left are referenced as viewed from the
driver's seat.

Dave

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun May  9 17:58:46 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 19:58:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer
Message-ID: <7C7E871277CC45F2AE5BB6CA21FE8701@CarlPC>

view at:
http://mysite.verizon.net/respk29i/id9.html

It was in with a bunch of body mounting hardware but that may not mean 
anything.
Thanks
Carl

From llst at shaw.ca  Sun May  9 19:05:25 2010
From: llst at shaw.ca (LT)
Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 18:05:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Noisy brakes...
Message-ID: <4BE75BD5.3020301@shaw.ca>

It's pretty embarrassing when you are out and about.
This goes back to the mid 70's but I used a little bit of grease between the shim and the pad and the noise was gone.


Larry Ternowski



Have done just on 100 miles in the 4A that I have just put back 
> on the
> road after 4 years. Minor problem though....I replaced both the front 
> brake
> discs and the pads with new units. They squeal like there's no tomorrow, 
> it's
> a wonder you can't hear them over there! I figured that there  may be no
> shims, but checked today and there is! They are .015" thick, so I figured 
> they
> should do. Am I just being just a little bit premature, and not giving 
> them
> time to bed in? I look forward, as usual to your responses.

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sun May  9 19:53:45 2010
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 20:53:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer
In-Reply-To: <7C7E871277CC45F2AE5BB6CA21FE8701@CarlPC>
References: <7C7E871277CC45F2AE5BB6CA21FE8701@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w32D2A6AB6DC14D88412526B9F90@phx.gbl>

Carl-

Those are the mounting bolts on the floorboards near the driveshaft tunnel.
If you don't need them, I'd be happy to buy them from you!

Regards,
Randy
59 TR3A
64 TR4

> From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 19:58:46 -0400
> Subject: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer
>
> view at:
> http://mysite.verizon.net/respk29i/id9.html
>
> It was in with a bunch of body mounting hardware but that may not mean
> anything.
> Thanks
> Carl
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
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>

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From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sun May  9 20:07:40 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 22:07:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] Noisy brakes...
Message-ID: <24b0c.7a3aeb23.3918c46c@aol.com>

Working as workshop foreman at a BL dealer in the UK in the '80's, all the  
mechanics used a product called 'Coppaslip' on the back of the pads to keep 
 things quiet. I haven't found it here in North America, but there must be 
an  equivalent. My understanding is that a bit of grease, as previously 
suggested,  works great, but the copper- based alternative will last longer.
 
Then again, we'd spray WD-40 on an alternator belt when a customer was  
complaining of fanbelt noise on their Austin Metro....perhaps my advice isn't  
that valuable after all.  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun May  9 20:56:18 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 20:56:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-w32D2A6AB6DC14D88412526B9F90@phx.gbl>
References: <7C7E871277CC45F2AE5BB6CA21FE8701@CarlPC>
	<BAY150-w32D2A6AB6DC14D88412526B9F90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F5FCD52CD78A4AF198029FBD3068C1BB@bboffice>

They are only $0.89 at TRF.
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy&Val DeRuiter
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 7:54 PM
To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net; Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer

Carl-

Those are the mounting bolts on the floorboards near the driveshaft tunnel.
If you don't need them, I'd be happy to buy them from you!

Regards,
Randy
59 TR3A
64 TR4

> From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 19:58:46 -0400
> Subject: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer
>
> view at:
> http://mysite.verizon.net/respk29i/id9.html
>
> It was in with a bunch of body mounting hardware but that may not mean 
> anything.
> Thanks
> Carl
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com
>

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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun May  9 22:25:05 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 00:25:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer
In-Reply-To: <F5FCD52CD78A4AF198029FBD3068C1BB@bboffice>
References: <7C7E871277CC45F2AE5BB6CA21FE8701@CarlPC>
	<BAY150-w32D2A6AB6DC14D88412526B9F90@phx.gbl>
	<F5FCD52CD78A4AF198029FBD3068C1BB@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1EC15F2479DA4858B1777C35C0BB0765@CarlPC>

ah ah...  I was looking for a regular bolt for that location.
Thanks all
Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wbeech at flash.net>
To: "'Randy&Val DeRuiter'" <deruiterville at hotmail.com>; 
<cfmtr3a at verizon.net>; "'Triumph List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 10:56 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer


> They are only $0.89 at TRF.
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy&Val DeRuiter
> Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 7:54 PM
> To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net; Triumph List
> Subject: Re: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer
>
> Carl-
>
> Those are the mounting bolts on the floorboards near the driveshaft 
> tunnel.
> If you don't need them, I'd be happy to buy them from you!
>
> Regards,
> Randy
> 59 TR3A
> 64 TR4
>
>> From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 19:58:46 -0400
>> Subject: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer
>>
>> view at:
>> http://mysite.verizon.net/respk29i/id9.html
>>
>> It was in with a bunch of body mounting hardware but that may not mean
>> anything.
>> Thanks
>> Carl
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
>> $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:W
> L
> :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3
>
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> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon May 10 05:56:39 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 07:56:39 EDT
Subject: [TR] Noisy brakes...
Message-ID: <34723.541c7f31.39194e77@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/9/2010 10:29:45 PM Central Daylight Time, 
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com writes: 
> Working as workshop foreman at a BL dealer in the UK in the '80's, all 
> the  
> mechanics used a product called 'Coppaslip' on the back of the pads to 
> keep 
> things quiet. I haven't found it here in North America, but there must be 
> an  equivalent. My understanding is that a bit of grease, as previously 
> suggested,  works great, but the copper- based alternative will last 
> longer.
> 
There are "anti-seize" products out there available at most autoparts 
stores.  Permatex is one of the brands.  I use this on my exhaust system 
fasteners.  That means I can take things apart down the road without breaking 
things.

I've always eschewed grease based products on the brakes since the heat 
will let the grease flow and possibly make contact with the braking surfaces.  
But there are anti-squeel products at the same aforementioned autoparts 
store designed specifically for this situation.  Since I like to do things once 
(it doesn't always work out this way) I'll leave the experimenting to 
others.

Dave

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Mon May 10 06:32:18 2010
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 07:32:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer
In-Reply-To: <F5FCD52CD78A4AF198029FBD3068C1BB@bboffice>
References: <7C7E871277CC45F2AE5BB6CA21FE8701@CarlPC>
	<BAY150-w32D2A6AB6DC14D88412526B9F90@phx.gbl>,
	<F5FCD52CD78A4AF198029FBD3068C1BB@bboffice>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w235B6323634F5DBDBF3727B9F90@phx.gbl>

Serves me right for not trying to look up that part number - the body kit I
had didn't have those bolts and I thought they were NLA.  Thanks Bill!



Randy

> They are only $0.89 at TRF.
> Bill
>

_________________________________________________________________
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From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon May 10 06:39:16 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 05:39:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer
Message-ID: <873361.26440.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Do yourself a favor and keep the washer/grommet and replace the flathead
machine screw with a stainless one. It'll make your life or someone else's
life easier in the future. Don't be the DPO!

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
Subject:
 [TR] Help identifying TR3 screw/washer
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
 <7C7E871277CC45F2AE5BB6CA21FE8701 at CarlPC>
Content-Type: 
text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
    
reply-type=original

view at:
http://mysite.verizon.net/respk29i/id9.html

It
 was in with a bunch of body mounting hardware but that may not mean
anything.
Thanks
Carl

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon May 10 07:16:24 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 13:16:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Noisy brakes...
In-Reply-To: <34723.541c7f31.39194e77@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1183236387.24106541273497384912.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

The parts stores hereabouts have little envelopes at the counter of one-dose    chemicals for common maintenance jobs. One of these is the blue gel antisqueal stuff to put on the back of brake pads. 


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Mon May 10 07:47:55 2010
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 06:47:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 198
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10938.1273492548.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.10938.1273492548.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BDA8B2B43EFE48349E76A09BFE2D7C19@Induninwlaptop>

Dave,

I don't recall mine having an "L" on either of them, but I can tell you they
mount "not as they look correct". I have a doc that explains the correct
mounting and would be happy to send it to you, or anyone else on the list
(can I attach it to this message?). It has pictures too!

Brian

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 15:34:11 -0400
From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt at fuse.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A IRS Front Suspension Question
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AB76C2D8D66F4A4CAED9339D1985E4B1 at DaveLaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi List,
I have been going over my TR4A IRS chassis to make sure I have everything
connected, cotter-pinned, etc. before I drop the tub back on it and I am
having a memory loss moment here. Can anybody please confirm that the upper
wishbone bracket marked "L" goes on the front driver side (left hand drive
car) as you sit in the driver seat?? If not, I have them switched.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
1967 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a


------------------------------

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon May 10 09:02:57 2010
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 08:02:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Noisy brakes...
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F1102CF04@kb1.mossmotors.com>

"Working as workshop foreman at a BL dealer in the UK in the '80's, all
the
mechanics used a product called 'Coppaslip' on the back of the pads to
keep
 things quiet. I haven't found it here in North America, but there must
be
an  equivalent."


Moss # 221-405 = 2 oz tube
Moss # 221-410 = 8.8 oz  jar with brush in cap.

Just info, not a plug...

Peter - 1971 TR6

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon May 10 10:16:40 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 12:16:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Copaslip for Noisy Brakes
Message-ID: <923C42DE9D9546F9AAC892C113CAEF81@OwnerPC>

"Copaslip Antiseize Assembly Compound
Copaslip is a copper-based anti-seize compound which protects up to 20000F.
Prevents galling, wear, and metal-to-metal contact, especially in
high-pressure applications such as spark plug threads, rod ends, and jam nuts.
2 ounce tube"

costs $8.50  + shipping, available at

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=293

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Mon May 10 13:56:34 2010
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 15:56:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 standard dished piston needed
Message-ID: <380-220105110195634997@M2W135.mail2web.com>

After looking at the pistons on the 1500 rebuild, it appears that one of
the pistons was a little abused - So I am looking for a good used standard
size (dished) piston for a 1500 Spitfire at a reasonable price There is a
used one on eBay, but to me is a little much at $40 for a single used,
un-cleaned one at that!!
So I am asking to see if anyone has a good used one laying about that they
would like to get rid of -


--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://link.mail2web.com/mail2web

From tr6nut at verizon.net  Mon May 10 16:20:43 2010
From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 18:20:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Noisy brakes...
In-Reply-To: <34723.541c7f31.39194e77@cs.com>
References: <34723.541c7f31.39194e77@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4BE886BB.7080408@verizon.net>

http://www.mrmoly.com/html/copaslip.html

From tr4driver at gmail.com  Mon May 10 18:10:41 2010
From: tr4driver at gmail.com (Kurtis)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 19:10:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 rear bulkhead
Message-ID: <000301caf09e$6555a0d0$3000e270$@com>

I just purchased a read bulkhead piece from TRF
(http://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR4/37.php - part no. 806310). My car didn't
have this piece when I bought it.  The PO had piece of Styrofoam stuck back
there in front of the gas tank, and I just went with that.  Now that I
actually have the piece, I'm trying to figure out exactly how it's supposed
to fit back there.  I assume it's supposed to fasten to the metal frame
(which has holes in it), and I assume it goes in front of the frame(?).  It
won't easily fit, and I assume I'll be trimming it some.  Is this normal?
Can anyone show me a picture of one properly installed?

Thanks,

Kurt Jones
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4 - CT19389L
1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250
www.vintagebritishcars.com

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue May 11 05:29:03 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 07:29:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Request for Car show ballot counting systems
Message-ID: <AANLkTilJklbEDMhXMzfeIam0iGBnqGdyowpa-zaXhqKs@mail.gmail.com>

Since this involves Triumphs and voting, I hope you don't mind.

I counted ballots at a participants choice British car show recently and
while the process was very accurate,  it took longer than expected.

Voting was open to all participants, we had several categories for tons of
makes.  Somehow, my daily driver even got a few votes!

I googled car show voting systems and other variations and came up flat.

If anyone has some resources or has used a solid fast system in the past,
can you send it to me off list?

We are working to make our process better for next year.

Thanks

Chris

From spitfire at freebacon.net  Tue May 11 09:26:01 2010
From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 09:26:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] Request for Car show ballot counting systems
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilJklbEDMhXMzfeIam0iGBnqGdyowpa-zaXhqKs@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTilJklbEDMhXMzfeIam0iGBnqGdyowpa-zaXhqKs@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DFAC44AC3A2D4C65809D4BCFBE5544EA@Spike>

You could set up a small kiosk system where the voters could enter their own 
data.  A few laptops set up on a table would do it.   If they're networked 
together (wired or wireless), you could set up a centralized database that 
would keep track of all votes and other info; if they aren't networked 
together each laptop would keep it's own data that would need to be 
reconciled at the end of the day.  Probably take a few hours to work up a 
basic system.  Of course, I'm a software developer, so I naturally think of 
a software solution.
If there is some interest in something like this, I'd be happy to work up a 
prototype.  It would give me something LBC-related to do when it's cloudy<g>

For a non-electronic solution, how about tallying the votes as they come in 
(assuming you started counting at the end of the voting period)

Mike Welch
Colorado Springs, CO
'69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2
'69 Honda SL350

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 5:29 AM
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Request for Car show ballot counting systems

> Since this involves Triumphs and voting, I hope you don't mind.
>
> I counted ballots at a participants choice British car show recently and
> while the process was very accurate,  it took longer than expected.
>
> Voting was open to all participants, we had several categories for tons of
> makes.  Somehow, my daily driver even got a few votes!
>
> I googled car show voting systems and other variations and came up flat.
>
> If anyone has some resources or has used a solid fast system in the past,
> can you send it to me off list?
>
> We are working to make our process better for next year.
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitfire at freebacon.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue May 11 09:28:12 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 08:28:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Request for Car show ballot counting systems
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilJklbEDMhXMzfeIam0iGBnqGdyowpa-zaXhqKs@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTilJklbEDMhXMzfeIam0iGBnqGdyowpa-zaXhqKs@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a06240802c80f253a459f@[192.168.2.2]>

Bill Meade, who  runs the very successful California Autum Classic, 
has a good system, he selects "judges" from participants whom he 
knows to be knowledgeable, gives the a list of car classes (not their 
own class) and has them judge the cars.  He only uses 10-12 "judges", 
the votes are in by 12, car  owners are notified by 1, the  parade of 
1st in class is a 2 ... a really great system.



>Since this involves Triumphs and voting, I hope you don't mind.
>
>I counted ballots at a participants choice British car show recently and
>while the process was very accurate,  it took longer than expected.
>
>Voting was open to all participants, we had several categories for tons of
>makes.  Somehow, my daily driver even got a few votes!
>
>I googled car show voting systems and other variations and came up flat.
>
>If anyone has some resources or has used a solid fast system in the past,
>can you send it to me off list?
>
>We are working to make our process better for next year.
>
>Thanks
>
>Chris
>
>______


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue May 11 14:30:12 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 16:30:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Request for Car show ballot counting systems
In-Reply-To: <a06240802c80f253a459f@[192.168.2.2]>
References: <AANLkTilJklbEDMhXMzfeIam0iGBnqGdyowpa-zaXhqKs@mail.gmail.com>
	<a06240802c80f253a459f@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <8F11FCDAC54744E480AC48EC8FDDF5C1@CarlPC>

I have not been involved in 'tallying' votes but I can imagine that it can 
be tedious.

I have always found the single, long ballot both cumbersome and somewhat 
daunting.  Would it be possible to break it up into several shorter 
versions - by marque, class, etc so that each sub-group could be tallied by 
a different person or persons.  The ballot boxes could be placed near the 
particular group so that after the participants view the sub-group - drop 
the ballot in the box and go on to the next.  Best of Show - if not derived 
from best of class, etc - could be a separate ballot and ballot box 'at the 
judges' table.

I would suggest 'divide and conquer' would be the premise.

Computers/software, I believe, would be impractical.  Security issues, 
weather (heat/rain/snow :); ballot control (multiple votes vs single sheet) 
are just a few of my questions.

Brings up another pet peeve - why are the interested observers excluded from 
voting.   Could be a different 'classification' than participants - some 
kind of "viewer's choice".  I don't (or didn't) have a car to show - took 
the time to come to the meet - looked at all of the cars - but my opinion 
mean nothing.

Carl - looking forward to actually participating in shows.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>; "list Triumph" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Request for Car show ballot counting systems


> Bill Meade, who  runs the very successful California Autum Classic, has a 
> good system, he selects "judges" from participants whom he knows to be 
> knowledgeable, gives the a list of car classes (not their own class) and 
> has them judge the cars.  He only uses 10-12 "judges", the votes are in by 
> 12, car  owners are notified by 1, the  parade of 1st in class is a 2 ... 
> a really great system.
>
>
>
>>Since this involves Triumphs and voting, I hope you don't mind.
>>
>>I counted ballots at a participants choice British car show recently and
>>while the process was very accurate,  it took longer than expected.
>>
>>Voting was open to all participants, we had several categories for tons of
>>makes.  Somehow, my daily driver even got a few votes!
>>
>>I googled car show voting systems and other variations and came up flat.
>>
>>If anyone has some resources or has used a solid fast system in the past,
>>can you send it to me off list?
>>
>>We are working to make our process better for next year.
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>______
>
>
> -- 
> "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake 
> it." - Henry Ford
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3
> "Casper"
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed May 12 07:17:18 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 06:17:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] k and n again
Message-ID: <90951.53461.qm@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

received new k and n filters and had a quick question.  Do they come ready to use with oil applied?  There does not seem to be any oil residue so was just wondering.  
thanks!

gary n.

From L1J1S at aol.com  Wed May 12 10:13:46 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 12:13:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR non tr- MGA
Message-ID: <3b43d.5d1c5582.391c2dba@aol.com>

List, does anyone know if the MGA"S came with wooden floors or steel  
floors. thanks, larry schwartz

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Wed May 12 10:30:01 2010
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 09:30:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake shoe life
Message-ID: <931426.82416.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

All:

I've always assumed that rear brake shoes still have some life on them
if they're thicker than the backing plate their attached to.  Valid
assumption?

Drums, cylinders, hoses, are all good.

Joe Merone
CF18928
5-speed

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Wed May 12 10:37:27 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 09:37:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR non tr- MGA
In-Reply-To: <3b43d.5d1c5582.391c2dba@aol.com>
References: <3b43d.5d1c5582.391c2dba@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E79C1E1E-B034-4967-9045-71ED0AF634CF@gmail.com>

I had Wood in my 58 MGA, kept from rotting by the constant oil coating
provided by the engine!  :-)


On  12 May, 2010, at 9:13 AM, L1J1S at aol.com wrote:

> List, does anyone know if the MGA"S came with wooden floors or steel
> floors. thanks, larry schwartz
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com
>

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 12 10:52:49 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 09:52:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR non tr- MGA
In-Reply-To: <3b43d.5d1c5582.391c2dba@aol.com>
References: <3b43d.5d1c5582.391c2dba@aol.com>
Message-ID: <03a001caf1f3$8e64fb50$ab2ef1f0$@rr.com>

> List, does anyone know if the MGA"S came with wooden floors or steel
> floors.

At least partially wood, on some cars anyway.  I was riding in one when the
floorboard on my side caught fire!

We got it put out without any further damage (exhaust had been mounted a bit
too high); but for the remainder of the trip I had cold air blowing up my
pants leg as a reminder.

-- Randall 

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed May 12 11:37:20 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 17:37:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR non tr- MGA
In-Reply-To: <3b43d.5d1c5582.391c2dba@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2098280073.25297471273685840935.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

MGA cars had wood floors.  Plenty of floor-on-fire stories out there.  They do have alumnum skins on the doors, though.

We Triumph folks can't be smug about that wood thing, considering the paper-and-fish-glue gearbox covers on the TR cars.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- L1J1S at aol.com wrote:

> From: L1J1S at aol.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 11:13:46 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] TR non tr- MGA
>
> List, does anyone know if the MGA"S came with wooden floors or steel 
> 
> floors. thanks, larry schwartz
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 12 13:02:54 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 12:02:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake shoe life
In-Reply-To: <931426.82416.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <931426.82416.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <03bc01caf205$bafa6210$30ef2630$@rr.com>

> I've always assumed that rear brake shoes still have some life on them
> if they're thicker than the backing plate their attached to.  Valid
> assumption?

Certainly not always!  Contamination by brake fluid, bearing grease or
differential oil will ruin them, no matter how thick the lining is.  Trying
to clean up the contamination with solvents, etc. may appear to restore them
temporarily, but my experience is that it will never remove ALL of the
contamination, which will then come back to the surface when the shoe gets
hot (meaning the brakes quit working just when you need them most).

And if you have riveted linings, you should be looking only at the thickness
above the rivet head.

-- Randall 

From mondoluxe at suddenlink.net  Wed May 12 13:19:53 2010
From: mondoluxe at suddenlink.net (Jeffrey Johnson)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 14:19:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil in coolant after rebuild
Message-ID: <4BEAFF59.2000109@suddenlink.net>

Just got my "professionally" rebuilt engine running  and find oil in 
coolant.
My first thought is- head gasket. Seems strange, esp. after only running 
a few minutes while I watched the gauges.
I'm really, really bummed.  I mean  like crushing disappointment.
Seems that karma is getting even with me for calling her a strumpet all 
these years.


Jeffrey  Johnson
'76 TR6

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed May 12 14:19:35 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 14:19:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] k and n again
In-Reply-To: <90951.53461.qm@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <90951.53461.qm@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4BEB0D57.7060907@bradakis.com>

I'm not that familiar with K & N, since I use mostly ITG filters.
But from what I recall installing new K & Ns on customer cars
at Bailey's they do not come preoiled.

The filter oil has a red tint to it, you should be able to tell
whether a filter is dry or oiled by looking at the color.  White
means dry element, pink means oiled.

mjb.

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Wed May 12 15:30:29 2010
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 14:30:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 1972 TR-6 Frame
Message-ID: <954409.27668.qm@web81704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Anyone near Burlington, Iowa have a TR-6 frame they want to get rid of?  Any condition.

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed May 12 15:43:35 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 14:43:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil in coolant after rebuild
In-Reply-To: <4BEAFF59.2000109@suddenlink.net>
References: <4BEAFF59.2000109@suddenlink.net>
Message-ID: <E1911944E61F4DD28A97D5DB71824D1F@joepentiumnew>

I would check to see if you are getting water in the oil before drawing any
conclusions.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 12:20 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] oil in coolant after rebuild

Just got my "professionally" rebuilt engine running  and find oil in 
coolant.
My first thought is- head gasket. Seems strange, esp. after only running 
a few minutes while I watched the gauges.
I'm really, really bummed.  I mean  like crushing disappointment.
Seems that karma is getting even with me for calling her a strumpet all 
these years.


Jeffrey  Johnson
'76 TR6

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 12 16:24:43 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 15:24:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil in coolant after rebuild
In-Reply-To: <4BEAFF59.2000109@suddenlink.net>
References: <4BEAFF59.2000109@suddenlink.net>
Message-ID: <000301caf221$ebf205f0$c3d611d0$@rr.com>

> Just got my "professionally" rebuilt engine running  and find oil in
> coolant.
> My first thought is- head gasket. Seems strange, esp. after only
> running
> a few minutes while I watched the gauges.

Also very strange considering that there is basically NO oil pressure
against the head gasket.

I think it's more likely that some assembly oil/lube got left behind in a
coolant passage and now you're seeing it washed into the radiator.  While it
wouldn't hurt to mention your concern to the "professional", I would just
drive it and keep an eye out for any further symptoms.

-- Randall 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed May 12 17:54:57 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 16:54:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR non tr- MGA
In-Reply-To: <2098280073.25297471273685840935.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2098280073.25297471273685840935.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <190297.55352.qm@web113313.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

We Triumph folks can't be smug about that wood thing, considering the
paper-and-fish-glue gearbox covers on the TR cars.

oh Phil! why ever not?
this was all engineered for adding lightness so we could go faster than an MG.
triumph never did any thing without a sound basis in science and engineering.
Frank
To: L1J1S at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed,
May 12, 2010 10:37:20 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR non tr- MGA

MGA cars had wood
floors.  Plenty of floor-on-fire stories out there.  They do have alumnum
skins on the doors, though.

We Triumph thing, considering the
paper-and-fish-glue gearbox covers on the TR cars.
folks can't be smug about
that wood 
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag
LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn
Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- L1J1S at aol.com
wrote:

> From: L1J1S at aol.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday,
May 12, 2010 11:13:46 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] TR non
tr- MGA
>
> List, does anyone know if the MGA"S came with wooden floors or
steel 
> 
> floors. thanks, larry schwartz
> 
>
_______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed May 12 18:24:48 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 20:24:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR non tr- MGA
References: <2098280073.25297471273685840935.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<190297.55352.qm@web113313.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9E79B1FF2ADD417C928B9D5CE21D0C04@userb38463fba5>

Or to use up old spare parts from other models!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: <pethier at comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 7:54 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR non tr- MGA


> We Triumph folks can't be smug about that wood thing, considering the
> paper-and-fish-glue gearbox covers on the TR cars.
>
> oh Phil! why ever not?
> this was all engineered for adding lightness so we could go faster than an 
> MG.
> triumph never did any thing without a sound basis in science and 
> engineering.
> Frank
> To: L1J1S at aol.com
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed,
> May 12, 2010 10:37:20 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR non tr- MGA
>
> MGA cars had wood
> floors.  Plenty of floor-on-fire stories out there.  They do have alumnum
> skins on the doors, though.
>
> We Triumph thing, considering the
> paper-and-fish-glue gearbox covers on the TR cars.
> folks can't be smug about
> that wood

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Wed May 12 20:07:17 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 22:07:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace
Message-ID: <AANLkTiklSegQghl0BAIfLueVswdPBVjDhIUE7Xp6PavY@mail.gmail.com>

As I was installing the emergency hood release assembly I got from
Macy's Garage I realized the support brace that goes from the fascia
to the dash in the passenger foot well is missing.  The Triumph
Stanpart number for the brace is 610592.

If you happen to have a spare from a parts car and would like to sell
it let me know.

Thanks!

Brad
63 TR4
Richmond, KY

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Wed May 12 20:56:14 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 22:56:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] does sparking indicate a short?
Message-ID: <8EF82A83F240484AAE900DB850C5C8C1@OwnerPC>

List,
I have just now begun to check some of the electricals.  Please bare with my
'basics understanding.'  Although I might convert the car's positive-ground
wiring in the future, I am ok with it for now.
     With the positive pole of the battery hooked up to the correct cable, I
have begun to test isolated components with a wire from the battery's negative
post.  Touching one of the brake-pressure unit's wires does light up the brake
lights.  So far, so good.  Touching the other wire (without disconnecting it's
original wiring should, I think, light up the brake lights only if the brake
pedal is activated.  If it does not, the brake pressure unit must be bad,
...correct?

I bought a colored wiring diagram at ebay, although I've been told there's
proably a half dozen versions.  It resemble's the one in the manual.

If I take the previously mentioned 'hot wire' from the battery's neg. post and
touch it to the fuse terminal known as 'A4', and when I touch this terminal it
then sparks (with no corresponding brakelight's coming on) then I know
something is wrong.  I guess, it wouldn't be sparking unless something is
shorted... right?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3  76314 i think

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed May 12 21:10:06 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 03:10:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] oil in coolant after rebuild
In-Reply-To: <000301caf221$ebf205f0$c3d611d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1825762030.25559511273720206351.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

First, check for coolant in your oil.

Finding none, you could change the coolant again and watch for more oil in the fresh batch.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 5:24:43 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] oil in coolant after rebuild
>
> > Just got my "professionally" rebuilt engine running  and find oil
> in
> > coolant.
> > My first thought is- head gasket. Seems strange, esp. after only
> > running
> > a few minutes while I watched the gauges.
> 
> Also very strange considering that there is basically NO oil pressure
> against the head gasket.
> 
> I think it's more likely that some assembly oil/lube got left behind
> in a
> coolant passage and now you're seeing it washed into the radiator. 
> While it
> wouldn't hurt to mention your concern to the "professional", I would
> just
> drive it and keep an eye out for any further symptoms.
> 
> -- Randall 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From mondoluxe at suddenlink.net  Wed May 12 21:43:41 2010
From: mondoluxe at suddenlink.net (Jeffrey Johnson)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 22:43:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil in coolant after rebuild
In-Reply-To: <E1911944E61F4DD28A97D5DB71824D1F@joepentiumnew>
References: <4BEAFF59.2000109@suddenlink.net>
	<E1911944E61F4DD28A97D5DB71824D1F@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <4BEB756D.5090409@suddenlink.net>

  The oil has no water in it. I might conclude that a 'lot' of assembly 
lube was used  and that was what I saw.  I  do seem to recall that Danny 
the rebuilder said he had used vaseline as assembly lube. Upon closer 
inspection, there was definitely vaseline in the radiator hose. I'm in 
the process of draining coolant and trying it over.
Thanks guys for cool thinking.

Jeffrey Johnson
'76 TR6- soon to back on the road

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 12 23:51:53 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 22:51:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] does sparking indicate a short?
In-Reply-To: <8EF82A83F240484AAE900DB850C5C8C1@OwnerPC>
References: <8EF82A83F240484AAE900DB850C5C8C1@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <0b2401caf260$6402fca0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I guess, it wouldn't be sparking unless 
> something is
> shorted... right?

Unfortunately, it's not quite that simple.  Connecting to the 'hot' side of
the brake light switch like that, you are supplying power back into the
entire ignition circuit, which if the points happen to be closed, would
include the ignition coil.  That could be causing your sparking.

Randall

From akgraves at cox.net  Thu May 13 05:48:14 2010
From: akgraves at cox.net (Art & Karen Graves)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 06:48:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Request for Car show ballot counting systems
Message-ID: <001201caf292$2bc617f0$835247d0$@net>

Chris,
 
I discovered a clever ballot counting system in Kansas City.  They made a
booklet of 1x3 inch strips of paper, stapled together, with each car class
on a strip.  Once the participants filled in the car numbers, the strips
were torn off and deposited in a container, one container for each class.  A
thin board was hung between posts and all the boxes were attached to the
board.  Participants walked down the line to deposit he ballots.  Then, they
rounded up as many volunteers as needed to tally the ballots in the boxes. 
I thought it so clever that we started using that system in Austin for the
Texas All British Car Day.  We even improved on it to use different color
paper for each car class (some colors were duplicated) and the ballot boxes
are clear so that the colors show through.  Granted this is a lot of up
front work, but the counting of ballots is simplified.   I can send pictures
if interested.
 
Art Graves
1976 Triumph TR6
1985 Jaguar XJ6
Tulsa, OK

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Thu May 13 06:48:06 2010
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 07:48:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] James Bond Run
Message-ID: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C78826BACA3E@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>

I came across this on the Aston Martin Owners Club
(www.amoc.org<http://www.amoc.org>) web site.

Brian
--------------------------------------------------------------
Here's a topic from the TR Register forum which I thought might be of
interest

I'm currently reading the Bond novels by Ian Fleming and was really surprised
to see that a dove-grey TR3 made an appearance in "Goldfinger". It wasn't Bond
driving it, he had a Aston DB3, but Fleming didn't really have a bad word to
say about it.

In the novel, Bond is shadowing Goldfinger, by means of a tracking device, to
find out where he is taking his Rolls-Royce and keeps coming across the TR on
his travels. Eventually he realizes that the TR owner is also following
Goldfinger and, in order not to blow his cover, deliberately reverses the
Aston into the TR. The driver, a pretty girl (of course), then accompanies
Bond on his journey which leads them to Switzerland.

Given the mad things that TR owners do, I'm surprised that a 'James Bond' run,
perhaps in conjunction with an Aston Martin club, has never been organized.
Starting at Ramsgate and finishing in Geneva, despite passing to the west of
Paris, some parts of the journey (such as the air ferry flight from Lydd to Le
Touquet) couldn't re-created nowadays; some parts (such as the deliberate
crash in Macon) wouldn't be re-created (hopefully); but it would still be a
pleasant way to see the French countryside.  Thanks for listening to my
ramblings.

Paul .

If you are interested, post a reply oin the topics in the TR Register forum
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=23688&st=0 or send me
a PM and I'll pass your interest on.

Geoff

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu May 13 08:45:31 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 10:45:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] James Bond Run
In-Reply-To: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C78826BACA3E@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
Message-ID: <4BEBD84B.230.9A01730@localhost>

On 13 May 2010 at 7:48, Brian Jones wrote:

> Eventually he realizes that the TR owner is also following
> Goldfinger and, in order not to blow his cover, deliberately reverses the
> Aston into the TR. The driver, a pretty girl (of course), then accompanies
> Bond on his journey which leads them to Switzerland.

In the movie of course she was driving a Mustang convertible, 
probably an unlikely car to be found in Switzerland.  And he disables 
it via some gimickry which harms neither the Aston nor her.

Too bad about the ultimate demise of the Aston.

"You expect me to talk?"
"No, Mr. Bond, I expect you to die."

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From dbh at hamengr.com  Thu May 13 09:17:26 2010
From: dbh at hamengr.com (DAVID HAMMOND)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 08:17:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTiklSegQghl0BAIfLueVswdPBVjDhIUE7Xp6PavY@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTiklSegQghl0BAIfLueVswdPBVjDhIUE7Xp6PavY@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002301caf2af$68bd1060$3a373120$@com>

Can anyone tell me where Worldwide Imports was in California?

David
64TR4

.

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Thu May 13 09:09:31 2010
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 11:09:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] GT6 Needle and Seat
Message-ID: <a60aa.35a761e2.391d702b@aol.com>

I have a MK 3 with a leaky rear needle and seat.  They are CD 150  
Strombergs.  Are the needle and seat assembly the same as for the 175's I  have?
Thanks for all the help.
 
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs

From dbh at hamengr.com  Thu May 13 09:46:03 2010
From: dbh at hamengr.com (DAVID HAMMOND)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 08:46:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Worldwide Imports
In-Reply-To: <002301caf2af$68bd1060$3a373120$@com>
References: <AANLkTiklSegQghl0BAIfLueVswdPBVjDhIUE7Xp6PavY@mail.gmail.com>
	<002301caf2af$68bd1060$3a373120$@com>
Message-ID: <003401caf2b3$6507d3c0$2f177b40$@com>

Can anyone tell me where Worldwide Imports was in California?

David
64TR4

.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 13 10:07:16 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 09:07:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] GT6 Needle and Seat
In-Reply-To: <a60aa.35a761e2.391d702b@aol.com>
References: <a60aa.35a761e2.391d702b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0b7501caf2b6$5bc29950$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have a MK 3 with a leaky rear needle and seat.  They are CD 150  
> Strombergs.  Are the needle and seat assembly the same as for 
> the 175's I  have?

Apparently not, although I don't know what the difference is.  At least TRF
has them listed separately (P/N 517453) and not cross-referenced to the
various 175CD/S/E/2 valves (which all xref to ZEB19053).

The difference might be as subtle as the bore through the seat (which
affects how much fuel pressure the float can hold back), so I'd just buy the
right one and be done with it.

In the meantime, you might try holding the seat in a vise and rapping on the
needle with a hammer.  If you are lucky, it might deform the seat just
enough to seal.  Or not.

Randall

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu May 13 10:08:10 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 12:08:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTiklSegQghl0BAIfLueVswdPBVjDhIUE7Xp6PavY@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTiklSegQghl0BAIfLueVswdPBVjDhIUE7Xp6PavY@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinFWi7wCQKyeYh_viG6_SMu0w4CrpgJyt66Ps6m@mail.gmail.com>

It looks like the piece I'm looking for was used for all TR4 through
TR6 production.

It is item FW7 on the following link:
http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6greenbook/65.php

I guess its actually called a "stay assembly".

Thanks,

Brad

On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 10:07 PM, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:
> As I was installing the emergency hood release assembly I got from
> Macy's Garage I realized the support brace that goes from the fascia
> to the dash in the passenger foot well is missing.  The Triumph
> Stanpart number for the brace is 610592.
>
> If you happen to have a spare from a parts car and would like to sell
> it let me know.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> 63 TR4
> Richmond, KY

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Thu May 13 11:43:01 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 13:43:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinFWi7wCQKyeYh_viG6_SMu0w4CrpgJyt66Ps6m@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D98F7@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Brad:

I've been running without one of those for years. Does it do much?

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
Sent: May 13, 2010 12:08 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace

It looks like the piece I'm looking for was used for all TR4 through
TR6 production.

It is item FW7 on the following link:
http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6greenbook/65.php

I guess its actually called a "stay assembly".

Thanks,

Brad

On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 10:07 PM, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:
> As I was installing the emergency hood release assembly I got from
> Macy's Garage I realized the support brace that goes from the fascia
> to the dash in the passenger foot well is missing.  The Triumph
> Stanpart number for the brace is 610592.
>
> If you happen to have a spare from a parts car and would like to sell
> it let me know.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> 63 TR4
> Richmond, KY

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 13 12:19:58 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 11:19:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] does sparking indicate a short?
In-Reply-To: <0b2401caf260$6402fca0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <8EF82A83F240484AAE900DB850C5C8C1@OwnerPC>
	<0b2401caf260$6402fca0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <011001caf2c8$e6726c80$b3574580$@rr.com>

> > I guess, it wouldn't be sparking unless
> > something is
> > shorted... right?

A better way to check for shorts is to find an old headlight bulb with at
least one good filament left.  The low beam filament almost always burns out
first, leaving the high beam useful for testing (which is why I save old
headlight bulbs).

Find which two pins go to the good filament, by connecting one to the
battery and one to ground until the bulb lights full brightness.  Then leave
the jumper to the battery in place, and use the other jumper to supply power
into your suspect circuit.  If the bulb lights brightly, the circuit is
shorted to ground.  If the bulb doesn't light, or only glows dimly, the
circuit is not shorted.  And since the bulb will limit the current to less
than 5 amps, you don't have to worry about hurting the harness if there is a
short.

This will work for testing almost everything, except the horns and starter.
Those two items will light the bulb brightly even if nothing is wrong,
because they draw more current than the bulb does.

-- Randall 

From coefront at shaw.ca  Thu May 13 13:29:12 2010
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 13:29:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fuel Injection - TR8
Message-ID: <7A6601C0F628466782683DEEEFC004A5@coe>

I have a complete fuel injection system for sale [i.e. that, that sits on top
of the engine]. This minus the ECU.
Any interest ?  Mike.. coefront at shaw.ca

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 13 14:54:14 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 16:54:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] James Bond Run
In-Reply-To: <4BEBD84B.230.9A01730@localhost>
Message-ID: <8CCC0F594B06BE2-1B6C-3BA5@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>

In the movie of course she was driving a Mustang convertible,
probably an unlikely car to be found in Switzerland.







But in "On Hefr Majesty's Secret Service" Dianna Rigg drove a Mustang.  In
Switzerland.

I once say a Mustang in France.

Actually that was today.

Dave (Ecrivant de Sainte Marine)

From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com  Thu May 13 14:57:24 2010
From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 13:57:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Strange one This
In-Reply-To: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C78826BACA3E@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
Message-ID: <301833.71322.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi,

My TR6 has been in storage for 3 years while I did other stuff. Just went to
re-commission it and discovered some really odd damage to some of the wiring.
The damage is in the harness that runs down to the solenoid. There appear to
be 3 or 4 wires in it and one looks to supply the solenoid. Trouble is the
wires have all broken and look really brittle.

So.....  What do all these wires do??? The biggest fat one seems to be the
power to the solenoid and has power when I put a voltmeter on it and the key
is turned to start position. The car is May 1976 and is left-hand drive having
been purchased in California and repatrioted to the UK in 2005.

Thanks

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 13 15:11:22 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 17:11:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Strange one This
In-Reply-To: <301833.71322.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CCC0F7F94DCBBE-1B6C-3EB5@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>

My TR6 has been in storage for 3 years while I did other stuff. Just went to
re-commission it and discovered some really odd damage to some of the wiring.
The damage is in the harness that runs down to the solenoid. There appear to
be 3 or 4 wires in it and one looks to supply the solenoid. Trouble is the
wires have all broken and look really brittle.

So.....  What do all these wires do??? The biggest fat one seems to be the
power to the solenoid and has power when I put a voltmeter on it and the key
is turned to start position. The car is May 1976 and is left-hand drive
having
been purchased in California and repatrioted to the UK in 2005.




 Going from memory here but I recall three wires, the main power for the
starter.  This will have power on it all the time.  Period.  The White/Red (or
White/Orange) wire that powers the solenoid coil and the car will not start
without this one.  A third wire (White and something else) that bypasses the
balast resistor wire to the coil.  The car will start and run without that
third wire although you may get some benefit upon cold starting with this
wire.

Slante

Dave

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Thu May 13 16:52:08 2010
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 18:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Request for Car show ballot counting systems
Message-ID: <8e40d.2d460eaf.391ddc98@aol.com>

Chris,

I discovered a clever ballot counting system in  Kansas City.  They made a
booklet of 1x3 inch strips of paper, stapled  together, with each car class
on a strip.  Once the participants  filled in the car numbers, the strips
were torn off and deposited in a  container, one container for each class.  
A
thin board was hung  between posts and all the boxes were attached to the
board.   Participants walked down the line to deposit he ballots.  Then,  
they
rounded up as many volunteers as needed to tally the ballots in the  boxes. 
I thought it so clever that we started using that system in Austin  for the
Texas All British Car Day.  We even improved on it to use  different color
paper for each car class (some colors were duplicated) and  the ballot boxes
are clear so that the colors show through.  Granted  this is a lot of up
front work, but the counting of ballots is  simplified.   I can send 
pictures
if  interested.


_______________________________________________



"Mad  Dogs & Englishmen" in Kalamazoo, Michigan has used the different 
colored  ballots deposited in individual containers for years.  Their show  
attracts about 350 British cars and always on the first Sunday after July  4th.  
System works very well.
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Thu May 13 17:23:29 2010
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 19:23:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W47EFD2CA0515C3F08A4986BAFC0@phx.gbl>
References: <AANLkTiklSegQghl0BAIfLueVswdPBVjDhIUE7Xp6PavY@mail.gmail.com>,
	<BAY123-W2FF90F1C27A3FBB840D00BAFC0@phx.gbl>,
	<AANLkTin2mv0jhQaDzV5_UKx-foiQKSfOd_bQqi4qncuE@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY123-W47EFD2CA0515C3F08A4986BAFC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0195043E-5F07-4009-AB35-0A3ADEC8A7E4@gmail.com>

Thanks to all who replied.  It looks like I've got one of the stay  
assemblies located and on it's way.

Thanks!

Brad


> > >> Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 22:07:17 -0400
> > >> From: brad.kahler at 141.com
> > >> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > >> Subject: [TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace
> > >>
> > >> As I was installing the emergency hood release assembly I got  
> from
> > >> Macy's Garage I realized the support brace that goes from the  
> fascia
> > >> to the dash in the passenger foot well is missing. The Triumph
> > >> Stanpart number for the brace is 610592.
> > >>
> > >> If you happen to have a spare from a parts car and would like  
> to sell
> > >> it let me know.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks!
> > >>
> > >> Brad
> > >> 63 TR4
> > >> Richmond, KY
> > >>
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > >> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >> Unsubscribe:
> > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ 
> trmarty at hotmail.com
> > >>
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more  
> from your
> > > inbox. See how.
>
> The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars  
> with Hotmail. Get busy.

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu May 13 17:25:19 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 19:25:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Strange one This
In-Reply-To: <301833.71322.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <301833.71322.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <52A4EB00F7574EFDBC9E9AFF719682DC@BobPC>

Alex,
I'd suggest downloading the free wire schematics from AAW. These are 
considered to be the most accurate schematics available. You can find them 
here: http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

In looking at the one for a '76 TR6, there's 4 wires going to the 
starter/solenoid: W/R from ignition switch, Brown from battery +, W/Y to 
coil and W/O to seatbelt module.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Alex Cherington" <a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 4:57 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Strange one This

> Hi,
>
> My TR6 has been in storage for 3 years while I did other stuff. Just went 
> to
> re-commission it and discovered some really odd damage to some of the 
> wiring.
> The damage is in the harness that runs down to the solenoid. There appear 
> to
> be 3 or 4 wires in it and one looks to supply the solenoid. Trouble is the
> wires have all broken and look really brittle.
>
> So.....  What do all these wires do??? The biggest fat one seems to be the
> power to the solenoid and has power when I put a voltmeter on it and the 
> key
> is turned to start position. The car is May 1976 and is left-hand drive 
> having
> been purchased in California and repatrioted to the UK in 2005.
>
> Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu May 13 18:20:32 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 17:20:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Fw:  In need of a TR4 dash support brace
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D98F7@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D98F7@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <706174.74241.qm@web113311.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To:
Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
Sent: Thu, May 13, 2010 5:20:00 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace


sounds like the advice
F1 driver Fernando Alonso's race engineer Rob Smedley gave him Sunday. 
went
something like "ok Fernando your front wing is damaged, but your lap time was
1/2 second faster. i guess we know where the problem was now"

still laughing
Frank


 



________________________________
From: Mark Hooper
<mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To: Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com>; Triumphs
<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 13, 2010 10:43:01 AM
Subject: Re:
[TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace

Hi Brad:

I've been running without
one of those for years. Does it do much?

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
Sent: May 13, 2010 12:08 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re:
[TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace

It looks like the piece I'm looking
for was used for all TR4 through
TR6 production.

It is item FW7 on the
following link:
http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6greenbook/65.php

I guess its
actually called a "stay assembly".

Thanks,

Brad

On Wed, May 12, 2010 at
10:07 PM, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:
> As I was installing the
emergency hood release assembly I got from
> Macy's Garage I realized the
support brace that goes from the fascia
> to the dash in the passenger foot
well is missing.  The Triumph
> Stanpart number for the brace is 610592.
>
>
If you happen to have a spare from a parts car and would like to sell
> it let
me know.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> 63 TR4
> Richmond, KY
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From wbeech at flash.net  Thu May 13 19:27:39 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 19:27:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] does sparking indicate a short?
In-Reply-To: <8EF82A83F240484AAE900DB850C5C8C1@OwnerPC>
References: <8EF82A83F240484AAE900DB850C5C8C1@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <951CBA1F496642C8BA4B8152DE2E8C62@bboffice>

Paul,
Sparking indicates that the circuit is drawing current, whether it is a
short or just the current needed to light your lights or run the heater fan
you will have to determine.  IF everything is turned off and you are seeing
a significant spark or heating of the wires, you have a problem that needs
to be resolved before you continue.

I would suggest strongly before you go about testing/touching your
connections that you use a fused test lead so that if you do run into a
direct short you will not smoke your wiring harness and the labor and $$$
that go along with it. 

The A4 terminal should be hot when the key is on, put your test light
between the A4 term and ground, it should only come on when the ignition is
on.

The brake light switch is just a simple on-off switch and only gets power
when the ignition is on.  Yes, if you run a test lead to it and depress the
brakes it should light your brake lights.

Hope this helps, please be careful when touching some of those wires as it
could all go up in smoke pretty quick.

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 8:56 PM
To: triumph LIST LIST
Subject: [TR] does sparking indicate a short?

List,
I have just now begun to check some of the electricals.  Please bare with my
'basics understanding.'  Although I might convert the car's positive-ground
wiring in the future, I am ok with it for now.
     With the positive pole of the battery hooked up to the correct cable, I
have begun to test isolated components with a wire from the battery's
negative post.  Touching one of the brake-pressure unit's wires does light
up the brake lights.  So far, so good.  Touching the other wire (without
disconnecting it's original wiring should, I think, light up the brake
lights only if the brake pedal is activated.  If it does not, the brake
pressure unit must be bad, ...correct?

I bought a colored wiring diagram at ebay, although I've been told there's
proably a half dozen versions.  It resemble's the one in the manual.

If I take the previously mentioned 'hot wire' from the battery's neg. post
and touch it to the fuse terminal known as 'A4', and when I touch this
terminal it then sparks (with no corresponding brakelight's coming on) then
I know something is wrong.  I guess, it wouldn't be sparking unless
something is shorted... right?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3  76314 i think

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From cfisher at borgwarner.com  Fri May 14 06:44:39 2010
From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 08:44:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  In need of a TR4 dash support brace
In-Reply-To: <706174.74241.qm@web113311.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D98F7@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<706174.74241.qm@web113311.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD02BB20FE@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net>

Hi Frank,
I loved that transmission too. "We've found the solution". Rob Smedly
said it to Fernando's team mate Felipe Massa though. I don't remember
who Fernando's Ferrari race engineer is.

Monaco this week! Yeah baby.
Curt

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 7:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Fw: In need of a TR4 dash support brace

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To:
Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
Sent: Thu, May 13, 2010 5:20:00 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace


sounds like the advice
F1 driver Fernando Alonso's race engineer Rob Smedley gave him Sunday.
went
something like "ok Fernando your front wing is damaged, but your lap
time was
1/2 second faster. i guess we know where the problem was now"

still laughing
Frank






________________________________
From: Mark Hooper
<mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To: Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com>; Triumphs
<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 13, 2010 10:43:01 AM
Subject: Re:
[TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace

Hi Brad:

I've been running without
one of those for years. Does it do much?

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
Sent: May 13, 2010 12:08 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re:
[TR] In need of a TR4 dash support brace

It looks like the piece I'm looking
for was used for all TR4 through
TR6 production.

It is item FW7 on the
following link:
http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6greenbook/65.php

I guess its
actually called a "stay assembly".

Thanks,

Brad

On Wed, May 12, 2010 at
10:07 PM, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:
> As I was installing the
emergency hood release assembly I got from
> Macy's Garage I realized the
support brace that goes from the fascia
> to the dash in the passenger foot
well is missing.  The Triumph
> Stanpart number for the brace is 610592.
>
>
If you happen to have a spare from a parts car and would like to sell
> it let
me know.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> 63 TR4
> Richmond, KY
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfisher at borgwarner.com

From popnglo at gmail.com  Fri May 14 08:54:28 2010
From: popnglo at gmail.com (popnglo at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 14:54:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] Thrust washer & dog bolt (bottom end rattle) Follow-up
Message-ID: <00504502e78a4e0ea804868f0dbb@google.com>

I finally got around to bolting all back together from chasing that bottom  
end rattling noise I was looking into back in Feb. (lucky for me my two old  
XS650's are keeping me company).

The thrust washers were changed out using a .005 over, and a standard. The  
new end float measured in at .004" (from .011"). The dog bolt which was  
found loose was torqued at 140 foot/lbs.

Happy to say, there is no longer any noises from down there. Now I just got  
to fit the nose back on and away I'll go. That'll happen today.

Thanks all for the advise,

Ed (Hudson Valley NY)

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Fri May 14 11:26:26 2010
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 11:26:26 -0600
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings
Message-ID: <800CDA354ECE462DB28655AEFA695868@bboffice>

I have a pair of Amco Plexiglas windwings on my TR3 that, other than them
being a little foggy and some minor scratches, are in perfect condition.  My
question is how can I get these back into a more presentable condition?

I have thought of using a buffing wheel but am not sure what type of rouge
or other delicate polishing process is recommended for these?  Does anyone
have any experiences to share? (good, bad & ugly)

Thanks,
Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS 30766 L aka "Tar Baby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri May 14 12:01:23 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 14:01:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings
Message-ID: <20100514140123.AUT41777@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Bill wrote:
>  have a pair of Amco Plexiglas windwings on my TR3 that,
> other than them being a little foggy and some minor
> scratches

Don't know about a buffing wheel.  My wife had an iPod knockoff with video screen which she let get so scratched she could read the song titles.  So I went to Radio Shack and bought a liuttle kit of special cloth an and polishing fluif for buffing out scratched CD's.  In not much more than half an hour it became quite useable again.  That fluif might work great for buffing plexiglass.
--
Your tunes may vary, of course.
Jim Muller

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Fri May 14 12:27:02 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 11:27:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings
In-Reply-To: <800CDA354ECE462DB28655AEFA695868@bboffice>
References: <800CDA354ECE462DB28655AEFA695868@bboffice>
Message-ID: <FD4FEE66-00DD-42D1-85C5-85EEF9FB42FF@gmail.com>

Bill

I used the plastic polish that Moss sells & then a little Vinylex to shine
them.   They now look new!!

I did it all by hand!   I did take windwings off, so I could work on them on
my workbench.

John


On  14 May, 2010, at 10:26 AM, <bill_beecher at flash.net>
<bill_beecher at flash.net> wrote:

> I have a pair of Amco Plexiglas windwings on my TR3 that, other than them
> being a little foggy and some minor scratches, are in perfect condition.
My
> question is how can I get these back into a more presentable condition?
>

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 14 12:56:46 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 11:56:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings
In-Reply-To: <800CDA354ECE462DB28655AEFA695868@bboffice>
References: <800CDA354ECE462DB28655AEFA695868@bboffice>
Message-ID: <0cac01caf397$344133a0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have a pair of Amco Plexiglas windwings on my TR3 that, 
> other than them
> being a little foggy and some minor scratches, are in perfect 
> condition.  My
> question is how can I get these back into a more presentable 
> condition?

Any motorcycle shop, or LBC vendor, will have a set of chemicals for the
purpose.  Most popular seems to be the Novus 3-part system (which can also
be found at Home Depot & Wal-Mart), but there are lots of others available.

> I have thought of using a buffing wheel but am not sure what 
> type of rouge
> or other delicate polishing process is recommended for these? 

Takes a special wheel and a special rouge for plastic.  Both are available
from Caswell Plating, etc. but probably more expense and effort than it's
worth, for just two wind wings.
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

Randall

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Fri May 14 15:41:58 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 22:41:58 +0100
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Plexiglas Windwings
Message-ID: <AANLkTilwNDnuySfR6ybdadJNvSJnvCpCh4_qFCFHB8eq@mail.gmail.com>

Buy a kit to refurbish plastic headlights. Some kits offer abrasives
only, others include the polishing pad and fitting to go in a hand
drill.

Brian


On 5/14/10, triumphs-request at autox.team.net
<triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
> 	triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> 	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 	triumphs-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 	triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Thrust washer & dog bolt (bottom end rattle) Follow-up
>       (popnglo at gmail.com)
>    2. Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings (bill_beecher at flash.net)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 14:54:28 +0000
> From: popnglo at gmail.com
> Subject: [TR] Thrust washer & dog bolt (bottom end rattle) Follow-up
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <00504502e78a4e0ea804868f0dbb at google.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I finally got around to bolting all back together from chasing that bottom
> end rattling noise I was looking into back in Feb. (lucky for me my two old
> XS650's are keeping me company).
>
> The thrust washers were changed out using a .005 over, and a standard. The
> new end float measured in at .004" (from .011"). The dog bolt which was
> found loose was torqued at 140 foot/lbs.
>
> Happy to say, there is no longer any noises from down there. Now I just got
> to fit the nose back on and away I'll go. That'll happen today.
>
> Thanks all for the advise,
>
> Ed (Hudson Valley NY)
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 11:26:26 -0600
> From: <bill_beecher at flash.net>
> Subject: [TR] Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings
> To: "'triumph LIST LIST'" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>,
> 	<british-cars at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <800CDA354ECE462DB28655AEFA695868 at bboffice>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> I have a pair of Amco Plexiglas windwings on my TR3 that, other than them
> being a little foggy and some minor scratches, are in perfect condition.  My
> question is how can I get these back into a more presentable condition?
>
> I have thought of using a buffing wheel but am not sure what type of rouge
> or other delicate polishing process is recommended for these?  Does anyone
> have any experiences to share? (good, bad & ugly)
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS 30766 L aka "Tar Baby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 205
> ****************************************
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri May 14 22:21:57 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 00:21:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604C@CMS01.winhosting.local>

My TR6's grill badge needs repair. A fair bit of the enamel has come away,
although the rest of the badge (chrome etc) is in very good shape. Has anybody
had good luck filling in with some readily available substance? Epoxy etc?
POR+topcoat?

Somehow I suspect that I should avoid scraping out the entire badge and then
getting black glass powder and firing in a kiln...

MarkHooper

1972 TR6

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat May 15 06:15:22 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 12:15:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] electric fuel pump:  Offlist question
In-Reply-To: <03e001cad438$769f02f0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <2064823787.44021273925722892.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Seem to have deleted the e-mail from someone who wanted pictures of the electric fuel pump set up.  Contact me offlist again if you still want them?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat May 15 06:57:16 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 08:57:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604C@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604C@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <201005150857.17101.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, May 15, 2010 12:21:57 am Mark Hooper wrote:
> My TR6's grill badge needs repair. A fair bit of the enamel has come away,
> although the rest of the badge (chrome etc) is in very good shape. Has
> anybody had good luck filling in with some readily available substance?
> Epoxy etc? POR+topcoat?
> 
> Somehow I suspect that I should avoid scraping out the entire badge and
> then getting black glass powder and firing in a kiln...
> 
> MarkHooper
> 
> 1972 TR6
> 
Mark,

I got a badge on Ebay that had a small part of the glass missing. I masked 
around the area and then filled it with JB Weld. Smoothed it out with a razor 
and when it hardened I sanded it smooth and even with the chrome. I then 
painted it with some black paint and it came out pretty close to the original.

The repair area was about the size of a thumbnail. Doing the whole badge would 
be a challenge.

Bob

From lee at automate-it.com  Sat May 15 13:21:49 2010
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 14:21:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604C@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604C@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <67d844bed0de84999332f362af7a6bda.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

There's a place called Allan Heywood Enamels that does cloisonne repair,
including "auto badge" repairs. But... he's in Australia. See here:
  http://heywoodenamels.com/

The examples on his site look very nice.


> My TR6's grill badge needs repair. A fair bit of the enamel has come away,
> although the rest of the badge (chrome etc) is in very good shape. Has anybody
> had good luck filling in with some readily available substance? Epoxy etc?
> POR+topcoat?
>
> Somehow I suspect that I should avoid scraping out the entire badge and then
> getting black glass powder and firing in a kiln...

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sat May 15 17:31:58 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 19:31:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
In-Reply-To: <67d844bed0de84999332f362af7a6bda.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604C@CMS01.winhosting.local>,
	<67d844bed0de84999332f362af7a6bda.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604E@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Lee:

Does indeed look like nice work. Also looks rather expensive...

I'm thinking of trying black lacquer and building up layers. Or perhaps black
varathane will build up quicker.

Cheers,

Mark


________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Lee Daniels [lee at automate-it.com]
Sent: May 15, 2010 3:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge

There's a place called Allan Heywood Enamels that does cloisonne repair,
including "auto badge" repairs. But... he's in Australia. See here:
  http://heywoodenamels.com/

The examples on his site look very nice.


> My TR6's grill badge needs repair. A fair bit of the enamel has come away,
> although the rest of the badge (chrome etc) is in very good shape. Has
anybody
> had good luck filling in with some readily available substance? Epoxy etc?
> POR+topcoat?
>
> Somehow I suspect that I should avoid scraping out the entire badge and
then
> getting black glass powder and firing in a kiln...

From bhardysmith at aol.com  Sun May 16 05:18:37 2010
From: bhardysmith at aol.com (bhardysmith at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 07:18:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1959 TR3 project for sale
Message-ID: <8CCC300AA1684F9-1ED0-1784E@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com>

The time has come.  I came to the realization that I just don't have time to
do this.  I have a 1959 TR3 with a small mouth grill ( bought it that way).
The car is located in Bogalusa, LA (about an hour north of New Orleans and an
hour south of Hattiesurg MS).  Included is another TR3 with a seized motor,
but it has an overdrive transmission.  I am relocating to Alabama and jus
don't want to move them again.  If intrested, please email me at
bhardysmith at earthlink.net

Thanks,
Brian Smih

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun May 16 06:22:18 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 08:22:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 brake problems
Message-ID: <780B7C0D07FB421A83AC53A798DAC9D9@Edscomputer>

A friend sent me the following. Any ideas from The List?

Ed Woods


When I bought the car it took a long time for the car to stop when I pushed on
the brakes.  No matter how hard I pushed on the brakes, I couldn't lock up the
wheels.  The pedal was good and solid but no stopping power.  I started taking
stuff apart and noticed that the left rear wheel cylinder was leaking pretty
bad which had soaked the brakes shoes pretty bad.  I figured that was the
problem.  I replaced the wheel cylinder and rebuild the right rear wheel
cylinder as well as both front calipers for good measure.  Replaced the rear
brake shoes.  I figured I may as well upgrade while I was messing around and
replaced all the hoses with braided hoses and replaced the brake fluid with
silicon brake fluid.  I also replaced the bleeders with speed bleeders.  I
tried and tried and tried but couldn't get a good solid pedal feel.  Adjusted
the rear brakes, had someone pump the brakes up even with the speed bleeders,
removed the speed bleeders and tried to bleed them in the traditional fashion.
Still no solid brake feel.  I rebuild the master cylinder and bench bled it by
injecting a little air into the vent hole in the cap until solid fluid came
out of both holes for the lines.  Still didn't have a solid pedal feel.
Replaced the master cylinder, bench bled as before and still no solid pedal
feel.   Adjusted the rear brakes, had someone pump the brakes up even with the
speed bleeders, removed the speed bleeders and tried to bleed them in the
traditional fashion.  Still no solid brake feel.  I discovered that if I
tighten up the rear brakes as far as possible then I get a nice solid pedal
feel.  Loosened them back up just barely enough to get the wheels to turn.
Pedal went back to the floor again.  Finally took it for a drive.  Lo and
behold after about a mile the pedal was feeling pretty solid.  But it still
didn't stop for anything.  When I got it back home, and let it sit for a
minute or two, the pedal went back to the floor again and I had to pump it up
to get a solid pedal feel again.  Pulled the front pads and noticed they
seemed to have a sheen to them.  Replaced the pads.  Took it for another
drive.  Still no pedal and still won't stop for anything.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 16 07:50:20 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 06:50:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 brake problems
In-Reply-To: <780B7C0D07FB421A83AC53A798DAC9D9@Edscomputer>
References: <780B7C0D07FB421A83AC53A798DAC9D9@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <101d01caf4fe$b9f4d020$0301a8c0@randall>

> A friend sent me the following. Any ideas from The List?

I'm thinking something is causing the MC to not return fully and so not open
the return valve(s) to the reservoir.  Not sure what that might be on a
1500, but maybe a corroded pedal pivot, or misadjusted brake switch, or
similar.  That is causing the system to both suck air as it cools, and the
pedal to get hard as it warms up.

Plus of course the friction surfaces are glazed and/or contaminated.

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun May 16 08:30:16 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 10:30:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 brake problems
In-Reply-To: <780B7C0D07FB421A83AC53A798DAC9D9@Edscomputer>
References: <780B7C0D07FB421A83AC53A798DAC9D9@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <201005161030.17940.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, May 16, 2010 08:22:18 am Ed Woods wrote:
> A friend sent me the following. Any ideas from The List?
> 
> Ed Woods
> 
Ed,

Try turning the rotors and drums.

How about the PWDA? Could that be a problem?

Does a Spitfire have the power assist like a 6? If so maybe that is gone.

Could have a leak in the lines somewhere caused by rust.

Look for fluid along the path of the lines.

Bob

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sun May 16 09:21:00 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 11:21:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 brake problems
In-Reply-To: <780B7C0D07FB421A83AC53A798DAC9D9@Edscomputer>
References: <780B7C0D07FB421A83AC53A798DAC9D9@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946051@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Ed:

Sloppy front wheel bearings will give that situation of solid braking once the
pedal is pumped up and then back down to the floor a bit later. However, it
does not seem to match with the other symptons. Nevertheless it's one of the
only things not mentioned in your note.

BTW, it really sounds like your booster is not working. Rock hard pedal feel
but still lousy braking is pretty characteristic. Was it ever rebuilt, or is
the vacuum line OK?

Cheers,

Mark


________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ed Woods [fogbro1 at comcast.net]
Sent: May 16, 2010 8:22 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 brake problems

A friend sent me the following. Any ideas from The List?

Ed Woods


When I bought the car it took a long time for the car to stop when I pushed
on
the brakes.  No matter how hard I pushed on the brakes, I couldn't lock up
the
wheels.  The pedal was good and solid but no stopping power.  I started
taking
stuff apart and noticed that the left rear wheel cylinder was leaking pretty
bad which had soaked the brakes shoes pretty bad.  I figured that was the
problem.  I replaced the wheel cylinder and rebuild the right rear wheel
cylinder as well as both front calipers for good measure.  Replaced the rear
brake shoes.  I figured I may as well upgrade while I was messing around and
replaced all the hoses with braided hoses and replaced the brake fluid with
silicon brake fluid.  I also replaced the bleeders with speed bleeders.  I
tried and tried and tried but couldn't get a good solid pedal feel.  Adjusted
the rear brakes, had someone pump the brakes up even with the speed bleeders,
removed the speed bleeders and tried to bleed them in the traditional
fashion.
Still no solid brake feel.  I rebuild the master cylinder and bench bled it
by
injecting a little air into the vent hole in the cap until solid fluid came
out of both holes for the lines.  Still didn't have a solid pedal feel.
Replaced the master cylinder, bench bled as before and still no solid pedal
feel.   Adjusted the rear brakes, had someone pump the brakes up even with
the
speed bleeders, removed the speed bleeders and tried to bleed them in the
traditional fashion.  Still no solid brake feel.  I discovered that if I
tighten up the rear brakes as far as possible then I get a nice solid pedal
feel.  Loosened them back up just barely enough to get the wheels to turn.
Pedal went back to the floor again.  Finally took it for a drive.  Lo and
behold after about a mile the pedal was feeling pretty solid.  But it still
didn't stop for anything.  When I got it back home, and let it sit for a
minute or two, the pedal went back to the floor again and I had to pump it up
to get a solid pedal feel again.  Pulled the front pads and noticed they
seemed to have a sheen to them.  Replaced the pads.  Took it for another
drive.  Still no pedal and still won't stop for anything.

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Sun May 16 11:45:33 2010
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 13:45:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1273946402.29872.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1273946402.29872.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CCC336B7ADC9E6-172C-E94F@webmail-m050.sysops.aol.com>

 If you have a plastics specialty store in your area, or can buy online...
There are special polishes especially made for plastics, in three grades -
Heavy, medium and light for removal of deep scratches, for finer scratches and
for final finishing/polishing of the surface. Here's a link to Tap Plastics, a
local chain of stores where I've bought the Novus products:

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=428&

These are probably about the same stuff that's sold by various restoration
suppliers - such as Moss, Eastwood - for headlights, tailights, etc., either
in kits or separately. But I'd bet it's a lot cheaper from a plastics store...
And the different grades of polish make it faster and easier in most cases.
I've used the medium and fine/finish on helmet face shields, plastic car parts
and a lot of other things. On clear plastics in particular, you might still
see a sort of mild "rainbow" filter effect, more fine polishing might remove
it, or might not... but if not it's still it's a whole lot better than all
scratched up to the point of being unusable.

Do not, I repeat DO NOT use most power buffing tools. That will nearly always
melt the plastic and do more damage. There are special low speed buffers, but
most have too high RPM. Even the special low speed ones need to be used very,
very carefully, with a lot of stopping and starting to keep the plastic cool.

While at the plastics store, you also might just consider having a new piece
of Lexan cut to replace what's in your wind wings. There is a type of Lexan
that's got a hardened coating to better resist scratches, too.


Alan Myers
San Jose, California
amfoto1 at aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L
http://www.triumphowners.com/640


-----Original Message-----

Bill wrote:
>  have a pair of Amco Plexiglas windwings on my TR3 that,
> other than them being a little foggy and some minor
> scratches

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun May 16 12:03:29 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 12:03:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 brake problems
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946051@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <780B7C0D07FB421A83AC53A798DAC9D9@Edscomputer>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946051@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <4BF03371.3070700@bradakis.com>

> BTW, it really sounds like your booster is not working.
>   

Spitfires do not have brake boosters.  They were an option on
the GT6, though.

mjb.

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sun May 16 13:20:37 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 15:20:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 brake problems
In-Reply-To: <4BF03371.3070700@bradakis.com>
References: <780B7C0D07FB421A83AC53A798DAC9D9@Edscomputer>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946051@CMS01.winhosting.local>,
	<4BF03371.3070700@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946052@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Ooof! Thanks for the catch. Too much time with the TR6...

Sorry about the mis-info!

Cheers,

Mark (crawling off back under the car in shame)

________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis [mark at bradakis.com]
Sent: May 16, 2010 2:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire 1500 brake problems

> BTW, it really sounds like your booster is not working.
>

Spitfires do not have brake boosters.  They were an option on
the GT6, though.

mjb.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun May 16 18:23:27 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 20:23:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 brake problems
In-Reply-To: <780B7C0D07FB421A83AC53A798DAC9D9@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <4BF0543F.26129.1B244562@localhost>

On 16 May 2010 at 8:22, Ed Woods wrote:

> When I bought the car it took a long time for the car to stop when
> I pushed on the brakes.

Lots of "interesting" answers.  I wonder if the calipers are just 
plain stuck.  Jack up the front of the car, have someone step on the 
brakes moderately, and check that the front wheels can't be turned.  
The rears should not be doing all the braking anyway, though their 
tightness will dictate the apparent pedal firmness.  Note whether the 
pedal feels different with the handbrake on.  This can indicate that 
the rears aren't tight enough.

You replaced the hoses with braided hoses.  Bet that didn't include 
the rigid steel lines.  They aren't too hard to replace.  You should 
at least verify that they have no leaks.  If they do you could pump 
everything up and then have fluif dribble away.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca  Mon May 17 10:34:57 2010
From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton)
Date: Mon, 17 May 2010 10:34:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
Message-ID: <d53ed4f6215af.4bf11bd1@shaw.ca>

Mark,
If you go to a high end fishing supply store you can usually buy little viles of powder coating powder for repairing or creating custom fishing lures..
I got mine at Whole Sale Sports here in Calgary. And used it to re-do the Cloisonne badge on my 63 Fiat it turned out beautifully. I used a small syringe to carefully put the powder were the enamel was. Pins and small brushes come in handy to get the powder in all the places it needs to be in.
If you go this way I strongly recommend practicing on a throw away item first you have to get it right the first time. I have a hub cap I screwed up and it's a bitch to remove the powder coating.
 
Doug Hamilton
1960 Triumph TR3A
!963 Fiat Cabriolet
 
Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 19:31:58 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
Subject: Re: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
To: Lee Daniels <lee at automate-it.com>, "triumphs at autox.team.net"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604E at CMS01.winhosting.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Lee:

Does indeed look like nice work. Also looks rather expensive...

I'm thinking of trying black lacquer and building up layers. Or perhaps black
varathane will build up quicker.

Cheers,

Mark

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Mon May 17 13:07:24 2010
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Mon, 17 May 2010 14:07:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne Badge
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1274119202.11629.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1274119202.11629.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C788423EB5DD@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>

As a kid, I used to pour clear epoxy resin into silicone molds to make
completely useless paperweights that probably now sit in a landfill somewhere,
still encasing the watch parts, insect or what have you that I condemned to
plastic immortality.

These resins did not have to be clear. Translucent and opaque dyes were and
are available:

http://www.dickblick.com/products/castincraft-opaque-pigments/

Take a trip to a decent art/craft store and get resin, hardener and dye and
experiment to ensure you can get the finish and colour that you need. While
not glass-hard, it's pretty durable stuff.

Black should be an easy colour to match.

Brian

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Thu May 13 14:32:42 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 13:32:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Justin: 2010 Mille Miglia Images
Message-ID: <4BEC61EA.3010309@greenheart.com>

Some great cars.... you can click on photos to see larger or even scroll 
through the larger images.  --Justin


2010 Mille Miglia - IMAGES
http://www.supercars.net/gallery/119513/2416/5.html

The Mille Miglia Website
http://www.1000miglia.eu/inglese/home.html

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May 18 02:14:04 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 04:14:04 EDT
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
Message-ID: <51da6.3e5e97de.3923a64c@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/14/2010 11:38:49 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: 
> My TR6's grill badge needs repair. A fair bit of the enamel has come 
> away,
> although the rest of the badge (chrome etc) is in very good shape. Has 
> anybody
> had good luck filling in with some readily available substance? Epoxy etc?
> POR+topcoat?

Mark, Mouser Electronics carries a clear, pourable epoxy in a 350 ml kit.  
If you follow the directions it mixes up into a product with a viscosity of 
maple syrup (to give you a point of reference with which you are familiar 
;-) ).  You can dismount the badge and level it and pour it in and 6 - 8 hours 
later it is ready to go.

A bit of warning: it isn't perfectly clear, it has a slight amber color to 
it but in the thickness you will use it will most likely not be noticeable.

Check out:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MG-Chemicals/832C-375ML/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvJ
qaFk9BIiv6jhjM0Pk6JzWF9YtLy65no%3d 

> 
> Somehow I suspect that I should avoid scraping out the entire badge and 
> then
> getting black glass powder and firing in a kiln...
> 

Let us know if you do.  We'll send you all of ours that need fixing as 
well.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May 18 10:29:10 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 12:29:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Wedge] High Beam/Turn Signal / Horn Switch
Message-ID: <6862a.45cf0f6a.39241a56@cs.com>

Another forward to the list.

Dave
Return-Path: <78triumf at consolidated.net>
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From: "Dan McGowan" <78triumf at consolidated.net>
To: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
References: <55aad.49e2051a.3923c01d at cs.com>
Subject: Re: [Wedge] High Beam/Turn Signal / Horn Switch
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 06:44:26 -0400
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  Dave ,the switches are available at British northwest parts
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <tr7 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2010 6:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Wedge] High Beam/Turn Signal / Horn Switch


> In a message dated 5/17/2010 11:13:09 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mk2spit at frontiernet.net writes:
>> I've ordered a new switch from Moss - but they are back ordered.  On the
>> way
>> home tonight - the high beams were flashing on and off - and when I 
>> needed
>> the high beams, I had to push and hold the stock forward.
>>
> Have you tried Rimmer's?
>
> Dave
> --
> Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests
> to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Tue May 18 11:52:46 2010
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 10:52:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Free listing for car clubs and vendor's - The Classic Car
 Datebase
Message-ID: <516811.68475.qm@web36807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Want to pass on some information on a car related site. Was able to post my
own web page off the site. I have also sent a copy of this referral to 
Mr
Berson. 

Kind regards
Pete Groh  (KeyGuy) Ellicott City MD USA  

Saturday,
January 9, 2010 11:50 AM
From: "Robin L Berson" 
To: "Pete Groh"
<pete_groh at yahoo.com>
Hello Mr. Groh,
Thank you for your inquiry.
We have
added British Car Keys to our Directory of Services.  And, if
you have a list
of some of the British car clubs and vendors, I'd be
happy to get that
information.  It may take some time before we are able
to add foreign cars to
the website, but we are definitely working in
that direction.
Best Regards,
Robin Berson
The Classic Car Database
http://www.classiccardatabase.com/vendors.php
Listed my site, search under
name British car keys

We are in the process of expanding the database to
include more years
and foreign as well as American automobiles.B Please direct
your
comments or suggestions to info at classiccardatabase.com. Tell us what you
think! http://www.classiccardatabase.com/index.php

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue May 18 12:24:21 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 18:24:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] uncle jack is home in Minnesota
In-Reply-To: <190927025.27615651274206810791.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1090786675.27617691274207061293.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

The Triumph TransAmerican charity-drive Stag, known as "uncle jack" in tribute to the late Jack Drews, has arrived at its new home in Saint Paul Minnesota USA.

Pictures at 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157623950665471
and at the TRIUMPH STAG CARS pool on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphstagcars
  
Many thanks to all the dedicated folks at the Illinois Sports Owners Association for all the work they have done on this car. The PTSD charities in the USA, Canada and the UK have benefited from your efforts.

Many thanks to John Macartney, the spark plug behind this crazy wonderful plan, and to Glenn Merrell, Joe Pawlak and the late Chuck Kittleson.

Sue has already driven uncle jack to pick up her mom and give her a ride around White Bear Lake, with me in the back seat.

If you see us somewhere with our UNCJACK license plates, stop and say "hello". And if you would like to contribute to the cause of assisting civilian sufferers of post-traumatic stress disorder, let me know. Contributions are tax-deductable in Canada, the UK and the USA. 


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue May 18 12:53:28 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 18:53:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604C@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604C@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BEAE14@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>

You can get a new enamel badge for around $50 plus shipping. See 1st page in
the TR Shop flyer.

http://www.trshop.co.uk/special.html



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Hooper
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 12:22 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge

My TR6's grill badge needs repair. A fair bit of the enamel has come away,
although the rest of the badge (chrome etc) is in very good shape. Has
anybody
had good luck filling in with some readily available substance? Epoxy etc?
POR+topcoat?

Somehow I suspect that I should avoid scraping out the entire badge and then
getting black glass powder and firing in a kiln...

MarkHooper

1972 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 18 16:21:33 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 15:21:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
In-Reply-To: <51da6.3e5e97de.3923a64c@cs.com>
References: <51da6.3e5e97de.3923a64c@cs.com>
Message-ID: <095301caf6d8$799c5da0$6cd518e0$@rr.com>

> Mark, Mouser Electronics carries a clear, pourable epoxy in a 350 ml
> kit.

I'm curious, Dave, how did you propose changing the clear/amber epoxy to
black?  I seem to be missing something here.

Some quick poking about with Google shows that some art stores carry
powdered acrylic enamel in many different colors that can be fired at only
400F.  I'm not certain, but maybe 400F is low enough to not damage the
chrome and/or pot metal?  Then at least one site suggested top coating with
an epoxy similar (I assume) to the one Dave linked to.

Powder coat powder might work well too, if you could find some way to kill
the static attraction and control the stuff with a brush.  Maybe mix it with
just a bit of water?

-- Randall 

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue May 18 17:45:18 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 19:45:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
In-Reply-To: <095301caf6d8$799c5da0$6cd518e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9931@CMS01.winhosting.local>

I'm heading off to a couple of hobby shops to see all these magical elixirs
for repairing things. At one little strip mall nearby there is a hobby shop
right next to an angler's supplies place. There I hope to see something of
use.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: May 18, 2010 6:22 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge

> Mark, Mouser Electronics carries a clear, pourable epoxy in a 350 ml
> kit.

I'm curious, Dave, how did you propose changing the clear/amber epoxy to
black?  I seem to be missing something here.

Some quick poking about with Google shows that some art stores carry
powdered acrylic enamel in many different colors that can be fired at only
400F.  I'm not certain, but maybe 400F is low enough to not damage the
chrome and/or pot metal?  Then at least one site suggested top coating with
an epoxy similar (I assume) to the one Dave linked to.

Powder coat powder might work well too, if you could find some way to kill
the static attraction and control the stuff with a brush.  Maybe mix it with
just a bit of water?

-- Randall

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue May 18 21:12:42 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 23:12:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BEAE14@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604C@CMS01.winhosting.local>,
	<0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BEAE14@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94606A@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Stan:

Thanks for the link.

And to think I was in the neighbourhood in January.

Still, I am really trying to avoid making Grandpa's axe (it's already too
close to Frankenstein's monster) :^)

I'll have a go at fixing the original, but at least I know there is a backup
in case of disaster.

Cheers,

Mark

________________________________________
From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) [stan.foster at hp.com]
Sent: May 18, 2010 2:53 PM
To: Mark Hooper; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Repairing Cloisonne badge

You can get a new enamel badge for around $50 plus shipping. See 1st page in
the TR Shop flyer.

http://www.trshop.co.uk/special.html



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Hooper
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 12:22 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge

My TR6's grill badge needs repair. A fair bit of the enamel has come away,
although the rest of the badge (chrome etc) is in very good shape. Has
anybody
had good luck filling in with some readily available substance? Epoxy etc?
POR+topcoat?

Somehow I suspect that I should avoid scraping out the entire badge and then
getting black glass powder and firing in a kiln...

MarkHooper

1972 TR6

From allegrorover at mac.com  Tue May 18 21:49:13 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 22:49:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BEAE14@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94604C@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BEAE14@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <8EC1F3C0-1797-491C-AFE5-64EEABC607D7@mac.com>

I was in that shop in February, small place, very helpful, but from what I could see they have the same stuff that the big three have here in the states.
It was pretty hard to find at first as the Chiswick high street is one way in that area. They couldn't help me with my endless search for mounts for the aero screens, again they had the same stuff that's available from the big three.
I did see a lot of body parts hanging everywhere, but nothing notable.
Just my 2 cents worth.
 


Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed May 19 05:21:28 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 07:21:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne badge
Message-ID: <9def2.701ca3fc.392523b8@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/18/2010 6:08:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> I'm curious, Dave, how did you propose changing the clear/amber epoxy to
> black?  I seem to be missing something here.
> 

My apologies.  I was thinking of the TR3 badge with is multicolored with a 
clear overcoat.  I haven't look at that one in over a year - it's in the 
drawer waiting for that stage of re-assembly.  The same epoxy is available in 
Black as well.

Dave

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed May 19 10:46:28 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 12:46:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course, 275pg textbook
Message-ID: <E9B40F45F3794AA89220CFE184AD0D10@Edscomputer>

>From Barny Gaylord on the MG List:

Subject: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course, 275pg textbook


> For anyone interested in the deepest workiings of Lucas electrics, I 
> have just posted on line a vintage 275 page text book titled 
> "Overseas Technical Correspondence Course" published by Lucas 
> Technical Service.  This rare book was never released to the general 
> public, but was used to train dealer service personel via 
> correspondence school.  See index web page here: 
> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc.htm
> 
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.com

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Wed May 19 13:25:46 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 15:25:46 -0400
Subject: [TR]  Fw: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course, 275pg
Message-ID: <000501caf789$1506ae20$3f140a60$@net>

From: "Ed Woods"

>From Barny Gaylord on the MG List:

 

> For anyone interested in the deepest workings of Lucas electrics, I 

> have just posted on line a vintage 275 page text book titled "Overseas 

> Technical Correspondence Course" published by Lucas Technical Service.  

> This rare book was never released to the general public, but was used 

> to train dealer service personel via correspondence school.  See index 

> web page here:

> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc.htm

> 

  Thanks to those who made this available, but having just perused the
entire chapter 

on batteries, nowhere did I see a warning not to store the batteries on a
concrete

floor nor any description of what would happen if you did (it does suggest
using wood

between batteries when they are stacked). Was this information not known
when this 

document was written?  Just wondering. 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U 

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Wed May 19 15:29:06 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 17:29:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course,  275pg
In-Reply-To: <000501caf789$1506ae20$3f140a60$@net>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D993B@CMS01.winhosting.local>

I think the starter motor section has interesting points. Look at the example
of currents using a 4-cylinder car motor of 14 hp. I suspect this document has
its origins some time ago. Vintage indeed.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dennis Culligan
Sent: May 19, 2010 3:26 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Fw: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course, 275pg

From: "Ed Woods"

>From Barny Gaylord on the MG List:



> For anyone interested in the deepest workings of Lucas electrics, I

> have just posted on line a vintage 275 page text book titled "Overseas

> Technical Correspondence Course" published by Lucas Technical Service.

> This rare book was never released to the general public, but was used

> to train dealer service personel via correspondence school.  See index

> web page here:

> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc.htm

>

  Thanks to those who made this available, but having just perused the
entire chapter

on batteries, nowhere did I see a warning not to store the batteries on a
concrete

floor nor any description of what would happen if you did (it does suggest
using wood

between batteries when they are stacked). Was this information not known
when this

document was written?  Just wondering.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 19 15:41:40 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 14:41:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fw: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course,  275pg
In-Reply-To: <000501caf789$1506ae20$3f140a60$@net>
References: <000501caf789$1506ae20$3f140a60$@net>
Message-ID: <0aef01caf79c$1650bfb0$42f23f10$@rr.com>

> Was this information not known when this
> document was written?  

More likely they just didn't believe that old myth.

http://www.jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq14.htm

-- Randall 

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Wed May 19 15:54:31 2010
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 16:54:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne Badge
Message-ID: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C788427D3F77@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>

Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 18:53:28 +0000
From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" <stan.foster at hp.com>

>You can get a new enamel badge for around $50 plus shipping. See 1st page in
>the TR Shop flyer.

>http://www.trshop.co.uk/special.html

Stan: I have a replacement badge from TRF. While it looks shiny and new and
all, its does not conform to he compound curve of the sheet metal the way the
original did and the pins are thinner than the holes, allowing movement that
over time has damaged my paint. trshop's may be better, but I wish I'd thought
of repairing the enamel on my original badge rather than replacing an original
for a poor copy.

Brian

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed May 19 17:11:30 2010
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 19:11:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A color codes
Message-ID: <93753EBC1B734B1AA1AAC80791CFCC2B@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
Does anybody have the code number for Royal Blue in a modern base coat/clear
coat paint?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed May 19 17:11:24 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 19:11:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Guard
In-Reply-To: <516811.68475.qm@web36807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <516811.68475.qm@web36807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C9C80184704444FA9F4E7993D77A1697@CarlPC>

I found it interesting that the TR3 Parts manual does not list the bolts 
that hold the Radiator guard to the frame.   I'm sure I'll be able to figure 
out what size, etc. but found it interesting as I am sure it wasn't fastened 
with chewing gum.

The guard is item M1 in the manual in the chassis/frame section.
C

(note that my web site has been updated)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(recently updated photos) 

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May 19 17:19:03 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 17:19:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fw: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course,   275pg
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D993B@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D993B@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <5CA08528-9C38-48D2-80EC-98834FD66F50@flash.net>

The wiring diagram is dated 1948, but still lots of good data.

Mobile Bill

On May 19, 2010, at 3:29 PM, Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca> wrote:

> I think the starter motor section has interesting points. Look at  
> the example
> of currents using a 4-cylinder car motor of 14 hp. I suspect this  
> document has
> its origins some time ago. Vintage indeed.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- 
> bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Dennis Culligan
> Sent: May 19, 2010 3:26 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Fw: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course, 275pg
>
> From: "Ed Woods"
>
>> From Barny Gaylord on the MG List:
>
>
>
>> For anyone interested in the deepest workings of Lucas electrics, I
>
>> have just posted on line a vintage 275 page text book titled  
>> "Overseas
>
>> Technical Correspondence Course" published by Lucas Technical  
>> Service.
>
>> This rare book was never released to the general public, but was used
>
>> to train dealer service personel via correspondence school.  See  
>> index
>
>> web page here:
>
>> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc.htm
>
>>
>
>  Thanks to those who made this available, but having just perused the
> entire chapter
>
> on batteries, nowhere did I see a warning not to store the batteries  
> on a
> concrete
>
> floor nor any description of what would happen if you did (it does  
> suggest
> using wood
>
> between batteries when they are stacked). Was this information not  
> known
> when this
>
> document was written?  Just wondering.
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 19 18:39:39 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 17:39:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Guard
In-Reply-To: <C9C80184704444FA9F4E7993D77A1697@CarlPC>
References: <516811.68475.qm@web36807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<C9C80184704444FA9F4E7993D77A1697@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <005301caf7b4$eeb3dfa0$cc1b9ee0$@rr.com>

> I found it interesting that the TR3 Parts manual does not list the
> bolts
> that hold the Radiator guard to the frame.   

I believe that would be because the same bolts hold the bumper brackets to
the frame.  Check out item AS12.

-- Randall 

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed May 19 19:28:41 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 19:28:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] Two's company
Message-ID: <4BF49049.2030807@bradakis.com>

Just for grins, check out

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=48



mjb.

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed May 19 19:40:55 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 21:40:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Guard
In-Reply-To: <C9C80184704444FA9F4E7993D77A1697@CarlPC>
References: <516811.68475.qm@web36807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<C9C80184704444FA9F4E7993D77A1697@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <8CCC5D49FBBE4CD-1E14-49B2@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com>

Carl, am I right in remembering that the guard would be secured by the same
bolts that hold the bumper brackets? If that's correct, the bolts are p/n
HB0937 (1, accommodates support bracket, distance tube and stiffening bracket;
3/8" UNF, 4 and 5/8" long) and p/n HB0926 (3, support bracket to chassis; 3/8"
UNF, 3 and 1/8" long).


If those are NOT the bolts that hold the radiator guard, then never mind! :-(



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us



-----Original Message-----
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, May 19, 2010 7:11 pm
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Guard


I found it interesting that the TR3 Parts manual does not list the bolts that
hold the Radiator guard to the frame.   I'm sure I'll be able to figure out
what size, etc. but found it interesting as I am sure it wasn't fastened with
chewing gum.

 The guard is item M1 in the manual in the chassis/frame section.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 19 21:28:49 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 20:28:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Guard
In-Reply-To: <8CCC5D49FBBE4CD-1E14-49B2@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com>
References: <516811.68475.qm@web36807.mail.mud.yahoo.com><C9C80184704444FA9F4E7993D77A1697@CarlPC>
	<8CCC5D49FBBE4CD-1E14-49B2@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <16cc01caf7cc$9032d540$0301a8c0@randall>

> the 
> bolts are p/n
> HB0937 (1, accommodates support bracket, distance tube and 
> stiffening bracket;
> 3/8" UNF, 4 and 5/8" long) and p/n HB0926 (3, support bracket 
> to chassis; 3/8"
> UNF, 3 and 1/8" long).

That's correct for a 3A, but I believe a TR3 takes (4) HB0929, which are 3/8
UNF by 3-5/8" long.

The difference is that a TR3A only has one support bracket per side, and
it's considerably thinner where the bolts go through than the two brackets
per side used on TR2-3.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed May 19 21:32:31 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 23:32:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Two's company
In-Reply-To: <4BF49049.2030807@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4BF4750F.2695.2B44656F@localhost>

On 19 May 2010 at 19:28, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Just for grins, check out
> 
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=48

Can I have one?  Please, please?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Wed May 19 22:01:08 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 00:01:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 trafficator simularity
Message-ID: <2037518F6EE34212917A5E1F306B0CF4@OwnerPC>

List,
I just saw a web site with much simularity of a trafficator to my TR3's!  It
is at:
http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/Traffic_Intro.html
cheers,
Paul Dorsey

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Thu May 20 04:14:36 2010
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 06:14:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne Badge
In-Reply-To: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C788427D3F77@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
References: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C788427D3F77@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
Message-ID: <4BF50B8C.7080807@earthlink.net>

That is a change.  I bit over 10 years ago I bought one of TRFs badges 
and it was perfect.  Fit and looked right (unlike those crappy chrome 
bits everyone sells).  I wonder if they changed suppliers?

Brian Jones wrote:
> Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 18:53:28 +0000
> From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" <stan.foster at hp.com>
>
>   
>> You can get a new enamel badge for around $50 plus shipping. See 1st page in
>> the TR Shop flyer.
>>     
>
>   
>> http://www.trshop.co.uk/special.html
>>     
>
> Stan: I have a replacement badge from TRF. While it looks shiny and new and
> all, its does not conform to he compound curve of the sheet metal the way the
> original did and the pins are thinner than the holes, allowing movement that
> over time has damaged my paint. trshop's may be better, but I wish I'd thought
> of repairing the enamel on my original badge rather than replacing an original
> for a poor copy.
>
> Brian
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/supertr6 at earthlink.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu May 20 05:34:07 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 07:34:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Guard
In-Reply-To: <16cc01caf7cc$9032d540$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <516811.68475.qm@web36807.mail.mud.yahoo.com><C9C80184704444FA9F4E7993D77A1697@CarlPC>
	<8CCC5D49FBBE4CD-1E14-49B2@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com>
	<16cc01caf7cc$9032d540$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <AC75C1620B174CF08CA88C220E6A4575@CarlPC>

Thanks to Randall, Andy, Ed, and Dan - the mystery is solved.    I'll stop 
by the local bolt warehouse on the way home tonight and I can keep this 
project moving forward.    This weekend the fenders, apron, hood & boot (I 
typed bood & hoot first) go back on for the last time.  Also finish up the 
fuel & hydraulic lines.

It is beginning to look like a car again...  Not just a pile of parts......

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ updated 5/18/10


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Radiator Guard


>> the
>> bolts are p/n
>> HB0937 (1, accommodates support bracket, distance tube and
>> stiffening bracket;
>> 3/8" UNF, 4 and 5/8" long) and p/n HB0926 (3, support bracket
>> to chassis; 3/8"
>> UNF, 3 and 1/8" long).
>
> That's correct for a 3A, but I believe a TR3 takes (4) HB0929, which are 
> 3/8
> UNF by 3-5/8" long.
>
> The difference is that a TR3A only has one support bracket per side, and
> it's considerably thinner where the bolts go through than the two brackets
> per side used on TR2-3.
>
> Randall

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Thu May 20 05:55:48 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 07:55:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings
In-Reply-To: <20100514140123.AUT41777@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20100514140123.AUT41777@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <6F1960AB81F34918A066B76D9333B54F@AlexPC>

I have a plexiglass rear window for my 59 TR3A hard top. When I got it, it 
was badly scratched to the point where you could hardly see through it.

I was just finishing the restoration of the car and had just completed 
buffing out the clear coat paint finish. In doing this I had purchased a 3" 
buffing gun from a local auto paint supply store to get into tight spots on 
the bonnet around the headlights and other tight areas.. I used this small 
buffer with Novus #3 Heavy Scratch remover and it made it almost new 
looking. Excellent product and available at most of the usual culprits.

You may also want to try the same process with the new headlight lens 
polish. It worked wonders on my Jeep headlight covers.

Alex
59 TR3A
72 TR6
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 14, 2010 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings


> Bill wrote:
>>  have a pair of Amco Plexiglas windwings on my TR3 that,
>> other than them being a little foggy and some minor
>> scratches
>
> Don't know about a buffing wheel.  My wife had an iPod knockoff with video 
> screen which she let get so scratched she could read the song titles.  So 
> I went to Radio Shack and bought a liuttle kit of special cloth an and 
> polishing fluif for buffing out scratched CD's.  In not much more than 
> half an hour it became quite useable again.  That fluif might work great 
> for buffing plexiglass.
> --
> Your tunes may vary, of course.
> Jim Muller

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Thu May 20 05:57:38 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 07:57:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings
Message-ID: <21C63EA4CC504055830746AF9B8629E2@AlexPC>

Should have added that the buffer had 3" foam pads.
Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
To: "*Triumphs List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <jimmuller at rcn.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings


>I have a plexiglass rear window for my 59 TR3A hard top. When I got it, it 
>was badly scratched to the point where you could hardly see through it.
>
> I was just finishing the restoration of the car and had just completed 
> buffing out the clear coat paint finish. In doing this I had purchased a 
> 3" buffing gun from a local auto paint supply store to get into tight 
> spots on the bonnet around the headlights and other tight areas.. I used 
> this small buffer with Novus #3 Heavy Scratch remover and it made it 
> almost new looking. Excellent product and available at most of the usual 
> culprits.
>
> You may also want to try the same process with the new headlight lens 
> polish. It worked wonders on my Jeep headlight covers.
>
> Alex
> 59 TR3A
> 72 TR6
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, May 14, 2010 2:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Cleaning Plexiglas WindWings
>
>
>> Bill wrote:
>>>  have a pair of Amco Plexiglas windwings on my TR3 that,
>>> other than them being a little foggy and some minor
>>> scratches
>>
>> Don't know about a buffing wheel.  My wife had an iPod knockoff with 
>> video screen which she let get so scratched she could read the song 
>> titles.  So I went to Radio Shack and bought a liuttle kit of special 
>> cloth an and polishing fluif for buffing out scratched CD's.  In not much 
>> more than half an hour it became quite useable again.  That fluif might 
>> work great for buffing plexiglass.
>> --
>> Your tunes may vary, of course.
>> Jim Muller

From tr6parts at charter.net  Thu May 20 06:13:23 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 08:13:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne Badge
References: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C788427D3F77@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
	<4BF50B8C.7080807@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <50AF6621177A45948CA14B47132420B4@Alan>

I agree, the Cloisonne badge I got from TRF was perfect.
That was about 4 years ago.


I  haven't seen the enamel copy yet.  
I see they're available from BPNW.

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Burlein" <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
To: "Brian Jones" <Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 6:14 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Repairing Cloisonne Badge


> That is a change.  I bit over 10 years ago I bought one of TRFs badges 
> and it was perfect.  Fit and looked right (unlike those crappy chrome 
> bits everyone sells).  I wonder if they changed suppliers?

From dwillner at ptd.net  Thu May 20 06:53:47 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 08:53:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] tools to correctly install a TR3A harness
Message-ID: <A6154333C8424F92AD377F0CA6F243A9@valued9cfc0b6f>

What tools are recommended to do an "original" looking wireing harness
replacement job easily, getting a new cloth covered wiring harness and want to
make sure it is done correctly and looks pretty original...done bikes, but
never have done a car before...Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA Victor Special

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Thu May 20 11:05:54 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 12:05:54 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
Message-ID: <669345712.3996146.1274375154425.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>

To the list,

Working on my 1972 Triumph TR6.

>From my last tuneup, I have Petronix undercap, I set spark plug gap at .035 and with the vacuum plugged, set the timing to 10 degress BTDC.  Ran great.

Then, at some point after reading to much list stuff, I set the plug gap to .030 but do not have a record of the timing.

Last night, I warmed up the car well, put a light on it, and it was running 14 degrees BTDC with vacuum plugged.  Removed the existing spark plugs, replace with the same NGK BP6ES gapped at .025 which is the spec.  Checked timing again, still 14 BTDC.  Took the car out for a real test, went to fourth gear and pushed it to the floor, no pinging, no hiccup, ran smooth.  This method was also in the list.  So my question is, if I want to get it better should I be moving toward 12 degress BTDC or 16?  Or, since it is running great, should I leave it alone?

Second question, going through maint. stuff like lubricate the pedals, lubricate rods that control gas to the carbs, the book says lube with "oil".  What kind of oil?  3M, Wd40, 20w50 Castrol?  I just want to make a pass accross all the oil points but I want to make sure I use what is preferred.

Thanks in advance,

Craig H. Nicholls
1972 Triumph TR6

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu May 20 12:03:53 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 14:03:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] tools to correctly install a TR3A harness
In-Reply-To: <A6154333C8424F92AD377F0CA6F243A9@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <A6154333C8424F92AD377F0CA6F243A9@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <69B0A749C0AB4621A87528DBE07CB117@laptopPC>

While I went with the AAW harness for my TR6, some of the tools/tips ;listed 
here (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Wire_Harness_1.htm) might help. You 
should also go to British Wiring (http://www.britishwiring.com) and check 
out their supplies and tools like the
 bullet crimper #TT85  and their bullet pliers #SSC1. 
(http://www.britishwiring.com/CAT28_29.PDF)  Neither tool is cheap but they 
do make working with bullets a whole lot easier.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 running with
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
--------------------------------------------------
From: "davewillner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 8:53 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] tools to correctly install a TR3A harness

> What tools are recommended to do an "original" looking wireing harness
> replacement job easily, getting a new cloth covered wiring harness and 
> want to
> make sure it is done correctly and looks pretty original...done bikes, but
> never have done a car before...Thanks
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg, PA
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA Victor Special
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu May 20 12:34:55 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 12:34:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
In-Reply-To: <669345712.3996146.1274375154425.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <669345712.3996146.1274375154425.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <4BF580CF.6030805@bradakis.com>

If no pinging, you can try advancing the timing a bit to see if you
get any improvement.  I usually set TR6s to run in the area of 10 - 12
degrees but here in Utah regular unleaded is only 85 octane.  It seems
to be at least 87 in civilized countries.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu May 20 12:42:25 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 12:42:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
In-Reply-To: <669345712.3996146.1274375154425.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <669345712.3996146.1274375154425.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <4BF58291.6080206@bradakis.com>

Also WD40 is not a good lubricant for this sort of task.  What I normally
use is the same stuff I put in the dashpots, air tool oil.  It is a 
pretty light
oil, much like 3 in 1.  I think the main reason I started using it is 
because
it has a convenient spout for dribbling into the dashpots.

mjb.

From peter at nosimport.com  Thu May 20 15:13:22 2010
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 16:13:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Rotisserie  F/S WI
Message-ID: <201005201413763.SM04324@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

http://madison.craigslist.org/bfs/1750261770.html




Sorry... couldn't help myself. ;-)

Peter C

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 20 15:39:24 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 14:39:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
In-Reply-To: <669345712.3996146.1274375154425.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <669345712.3996146.1274375154425.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <009401caf864$eb6d5730$c2480590$@rr.com>

> So my
> question is, if I want to get it better should I be moving toward 12
> degress BTDC or 16?  Or, since it is running great, should I leave it
> alone?

This is more of a philosophical question, IMO.  Personally, I like to find
the point where I can just force the engine to ping (by lugging it down in
high gear, with it almost overheated; kind of a torture test) and then back
off a few degrees.

But since you are already somewhat faster than the original specification,
and it seems to be working well, there is a lot to be said for just leaving
it alone.  Also, to my way of thinking, 14 is already pretty fast.  While
going to say, 16, might find another 1% in fuel mileage and power (assuming
it doesn't lead to audible knock); it also risks damaging the starter or
even a piston if you happen to find some inaudible knock.

However, I still recall how I felt after losing a piston to knock I could
not hear (due to other circumstances, not directly from too-fast timing)
http://tinyurl.com/25l899z
so you might say I'm a little gun-shy.

> What kind of oil?  3M, Wd40, 20w50 Castrol?  

I generally use motor oil, as I keep a squirt can of it on the bench.  WD40
is a poor choice IMO as it is mostly solvent that evaporates and doesn't
leave much oil behind.  ISTR the TR3 owner's manual actually mentions some
motor oils as being suitable.  "3 in 1" is pretty light, but would probably
be OK.

Just doing the oiling is a lot more important than what you use, though, so
if WD40 or 3in1 is what you have, go ahead and oil it now.

-- Randall 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Thu May 20 15:43:16 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 16:43:16 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
Message-ID: <409553274.3964175.1274391796118.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>

I run super gas just because the PO always did.B  Thanks for your other note
about the oil, I use dashpot oil specifically for that task, will try it
elsewhere!

Sounds like a plan to me.B  I will advance to 12, test again, try 10, and see
which is better.

Thanks Mark, much appreciated.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

On May 20, 2010, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

If no pinging, you can try advancing the timing a bit to see if you
get any improvement. I usually set TR6s to run in the area of 10 - 12
degrees but here in Utah regular unleaded is only 85 octane. It seems
to be at least 87 in civilized countries.

mjb.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 20 17:36:50 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 16:36:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
In-Reply-To: <409553274.3964175.1274391796118.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <409553274.3964175.1274391796118.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <00da01caf875$526540f0$f72fc2d0$@rr.com>

> I will advance to 12, test again, try 10,
> and see
> which is better.

Just for clarity, a higher number BTDC is more advanced.  Since you are
already running 14 BTDC, both 12 and 10 would be retarding the spark.

Might let you run regular gas, but is not likely to help either power or
fuel economy.

-- Randall 

From allegrorover at mac.com  Thu May 20 18:33:31 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 17:33:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
In-Reply-To: <00da01caf875$526540f0$f72fc2d0$@rr.com>
References: <409553274.3964175.1274391796118.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>
	<00da01caf875$526540f0$f72fc2d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <103E0F02-7464-4895-82B3-71402F32CB28@mac.com>

list,
While we're on the subject, I run my TR3A at 5 BTDC, and get spark knock. Should I try 8 to 10 BTDC?
I have been blaming the gas that's available in Ga, I am also thinking of changing to Pertronix.
What is the general concensus on the Pertronix, I have read that many have switched and like it.
Thanks



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Thu May 20 19:01:49 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 20:01:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
Message-ID: <1820444901.3971976.1274403709157.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>

Randal,

As always, you keep me working.  Changed tonight to 12 degress BTDC and it seems good.  Got to 10 MPH and put it in fourth and floored it, no pinging.  Definitely smelled some gas, but engine was good.

I will drive at 12 for a while, and maybe go back to 14 to see.

Thanks again to the list...........Craig

On May 20, 2010, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote: 

> So my
> question is, if I want to get it better should I be moving toward 12
> degress BTDC or 16?  Or, since it is running great, should I leave it
> alone?

This is more of a philosophical question, IMO.  Personally, I like to find
the point where I can just force the engine to ping (by lugging it down in
high gear, with it almost overheated; kind of a torture test) and then back
off a few degrees.

But since you are already somewhat faster than the original specification,
and it seems to be working well, there is a lot to be said for just leaving
it alone.  Also, to my way of thinking, 14 is already pretty fast.  While
going to say, 16, might find another 1% in fuel mileage and power (assuming
it doesn't lead to audible knock); it also risks damaging the starter or
even a piston if you happen to find some inaudible knock.

However, I still recall how I felt after losing a piston to knock I could
not hear (due to other circumstances, not directly from too-fast timing)
http://tinyurl.com/25l899z
so you might say I'm a little gun-shy.

> What kind of oil?  3M, Wd40, 20w50 Castrol?  

I generally use motor oil, as I keep a squirt can of it on the bench.  WD40
is a poor choice IMO as it is mostly solvent that evaporates and doesn't
leave much oil behind.  ISTR the TR3 owner's manual actually mentions some
motor oils as being suitable.  "3 in 1" is pretty light, but would probably
be OK.

Just doing the oiling is a lot more important than what you use, though, so
if WD40 or 3in1 is what you have, go ahead and oil it now.

-- Randall 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Thu May 20 19:58:49 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 20:58:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
Message-ID: <278548900.3974826.1274407129311.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>

Under cap, it is a no brainer to me.  You see how much fun I am having with timing, glad I don't have to deal with points!

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6 (needing advance)

On May 20, 2010, Anthony Cascio <allegrorover at mac.com> wrote: 

list,
While we're on the subject, I run my TR3A at 5 BTDC, and get spark knock. Should I try 8 to 10 BTDC?
I have been blaming the gas that's available in Ga, I am also thinking of changing to Pertronix.
What is the general concensus on the Pertronix, I have read that many have switched and like it.
Thanks



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From fishplate at charter.net  Thu May 20 20:21:30 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 22:21:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
In-Reply-To: <103E0F02-7464-4895-82B3-71402F32CB28@mac.com>
References: <409553274.3964175.1274391796118.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>
	<00da01caf875$526540f0$f72fc2d0$@rr.com>
	<103E0F02-7464-4895-82B3-71402F32CB28@mac.com>
Message-ID: <L2Lo1e0050HYFJw052Lstf@charter.net>

At 08:33 PM 5/20/2010, Anthony Cascio wrote:
>list,
>While we're on the subject, I run my TR3A at 5 BTDC, and get spark 
>knock. Should I try 8 to 10 BTDC?

Increasing BTDC will advance the timing...the spark will occur 
earlier in the cycle (because the Before number is larger).  This is 
likely to make the knock worse...the knock is caused by the premature 
ignition of the air-fuel charge.

Other things can cause knocking/pinging/pinking - little bits of 
glowing hot carbon in the cylinder, for instance - but try retarding 
the timing instead.  Maybe 2 BTDC?

>I have been blaming the gas that's available in Ga,

Me too.  The stuff is lousy.

>  I am also thinking of changing to Pertronix.

I'm interested in the replies to this one.  It ~should~ make timing 
more reliable, but won't fix a worn-out distributor shaft.


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 20 22:55:09 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 21:55:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
In-Reply-To: <103E0F02-7464-4895-82B3-71402F32CB28@mac.com>
References: <409553274.3964175.1274391796118.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>
	<00da01caf875$526540f0$f72fc2d0$@rr.com>
	<103E0F02-7464-4895-82B3-71402F32CB28@mac.com>
Message-ID: <188e01caf8a1$ca58a2b0$0301a8c0@randall>

> While we're on the subject, I run my TR3A at 5 BTDC, and get 
> spark knock. Should I try 8 to 10 BTDC?

No, that's the wrong direction.  If you are getting spark knock, you need to
retard the timing; so try 3 BTDC.

> I have been blaming the gas that's available in Ga

Very likely.

> , I am also 
> thinking of changing to Pertronix.
> What is the general concensus on the Pertronix, I have read 
> that many have switched and like it.

I tried it on my TR3.  Worked better than the 30 year old points & condenser
it replaced.  But not as good as the lightly used points & condenser I found
in the parts bin.  At least for the moment, I put the Pertronix back in the
bin and I'm running on points.  The car starts noticeably quicker, and is
less picky about where the choke is set.  After switching back to points, I
also need to lower the fast idle cam, as the cold idle is faster as well.

But as you say, many have had better luck than I did.  I have no idea why;
haven't taken the time to really dig into the subject.

Randall

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Fri May 21 10:01:41 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 09:01:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com>

Which brake fluid does not damage the paint??

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S 
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Fri May 21 10:22:12 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 09:22:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Clutch Master Cylinder rebuild
Message-ID: <730B3B46-3EF5-40E4-938B-AA65B64D2686@gmail.com>

Now the reason for asking about hydraulic fluid, I need to rebuild my TR3A's
Clutch Master Cylinder.  Do I need to pull the entire master cylinder assembly
or is it possible replace the seal with the cylinder in place???

John

John A. Wise

Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri May 21 11:05:25 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 10:05:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com>
References: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <67E9C4340D0F496587AAF14EAA7D3825@joepentiumnew>

DOT 5 (Silicon)

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Wise
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 9:02 AM
To: Triumph car discussion Sports
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid

Which brake fluid does not damage the paint??

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S 
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri May 21 11:20:35 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 13:20:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D995C@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi John:

Silicone (Dot 5) is the only one so far as I know. I converted a couple of
years back following the advice of listers like Randall. Very very pleased to
have stopped the paint damage. Still fixing leaks in the systems, but at least
I was able to work on other things too.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Wise
Sent: May 21, 2010 12:02 PM
To: Triumph car discussion Sports
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid

Which brake fluid does not damage the paint??

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Fri May 21 11:37:14 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 10:37:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <67E9C4340D0F496587AAF14EAA7D3825@joepentiumnew>
References: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com>
	<67E9C4340D0F496587AAF14EAA7D3825@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <91AF6588-8A79-47BD-898D-7C6B9E195E9A@gmail.com>

Thanks to everyone who replied.

I converted both of my toy cars (the TR & the 911) to DOT-5 several years ago,
but forgot to write the type down!!!  Duh...

John

On  21 May, 2010, at 10:05 AM, Joe Curry wrote:

> DOT 5 (Silicon)
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Wise
> Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 9:02 AM
> To: Triumph car discussion Sports
> Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
>
> Which brake fluid does not damage the paint??
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
>

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri May 21 11:43:37 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 17:43:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1059208108.28981561274463817514.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

DOT 5 silicone does not damage paint that is already on your car.

Body-shop people don't like silicone products around their shops because it causes fisheyes in paint which they apply to other cars.  Or so they tell me.  Apparently there is an additive for paint that helps out with this problem.

Several folks have pointed out that silicone takes on air bubbles easily.

I'm going to find out how silicone works in a system when it is used after a complete brake rebuild, as Joe Pawlak tells me that's what is in uncle jack.

Just draining out what you have and replacing it with silicone does not work very well.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- "John Wise" <tr3a.60 at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: "John Wise" <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
>
> Which brake fluid does not damage the paint??
> 
> Thanks
> 
> John
> 
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 21 11:47:33 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 10:47:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com>
References: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <019b01caf90d$b2769f50$1763ddf0$@rr.com>

> Which brake fluid does not damage the paint??

That would be DOT 5 Silicone.  Unfortunately, it's rather difficult to find
in stores, and typically rather expensive when you do.  (Note that
"synthetic" and "DOT 5.1" are NOT the same thing.)

But TRF has it on sale at the moment (ends today, May 21) for $15/quart.
P/N SBF32

-- Randall 

From tr6parts at charter.net  Fri May 21 11:56:31 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 13:56:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
References: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7590F7BB8C7A46A4BDCDF3790AAFA8E1@Alan>

Silicone...............

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Wise" <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 12:01 PM
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid


> Which brake fluid does not damage the paint??
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri May 21 12:54:52 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 14:54:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <91AF6588-8A79-47BD-898D-7C6B9E195E9A@gmail.com>
References: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com><67E9C4340D0F496587AAF14EAA7D3825@joepentiumnew>
	<91AF6588-8A79-47BD-898D-7C6B9E195E9A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <078030CE23424B34A2360A1645C4559E@laptopPC>

John,
Does the 911 have anti-lock brakes? If so, DOT5 is usually not recommended 
with ABS.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 running with
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "John Wise" <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 1:37 PM
To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid

> Thanks to everyone who replied.
>
> I converted both of my toy cars (the TR & the 911) to DOT-5 several years 
> ago,
> but forgot to write the type down!!!  Duh...
>
> John
>
> On  21 May, 2010, at 10:05 AM, Joe Curry wrote:
>
>> DOT 5 (Silicon)
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Wise
>> Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 9:02 AM
>> To: Triumph car discussion Sports
>> Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
>>
>> Which brake fluid does not damage the paint??
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> John
>>
>> John A. Wise
>> Glendale, AZ
>>
>> 1960 Triumph TR3A
>> Commission No: TS80422L
>> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
>> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>>
>> 1977 Porsche 911S
>> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
>>
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From rcrabbe at sympatico.ca  Fri May 21 14:17:29 2010
From: rcrabbe at sympatico.ca (Richard Crabbe)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 16:17:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP37BE228E252C48AD36DA00D6E40@phx.gbl>

On the subject of brake fluid can anyone tell me what sort of cleaner I can
use, I had a brake line leak and I now have a portion under my driver's side
fender that has had the paint peeled off.

I would like to repair and repaint but if my memory serves me correct
several months back there was a discussion on this matter - I didn't pay
close attention due to the fact I didn't need it at that time. To clean it
properly I assume there is a cleaner or solvent that has to be used before
repainting.

Thanks

 

Crabby

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 21 15:07:48 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 14:07:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <1059208108.28981561274463817514.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com>
	<1059208108.28981561274463817514.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <01d801caf929$ab583320$02089960$@rr.com>

> Body-shop people don't like silicone products around their shops
> because it causes fisheyes in paint which they apply to other cars.  

BTDT.  Took me awhile to realize WTF ... apparently cleaning the MC area
with an air hose had put tiny droplets of silicone into the air, which were
still hanging around in my garage the next day.  After two failed (small)
paint jobs, which included wiping down with the special solvent required to
remove DOT 5 before painting; I did the third one outside and it had no fish
eyes at all.

> Just draining out what you have and replacing it with silicone does not
> work very well.

Experiences vary, but I've had very good luck doing just that in several
cases.  Other times it hasn't worked so well, so I guess it depends on just
how bad the other components are.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 21 15:12:08 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 14:12:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP37BE228E252C48AD36DA00D6E40@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP37BE228E252C48AD36DA00D6E40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <01e201caf92a$45efda50$d1cf8ef0$@rr.com>

> I assume there is a cleaner or solvent that has to be used
> before repainting.

PPG DX330 (aka Acryli-Clean) is one.  There are others, maybe better, but
I've only tried the DX330.

-- Randall 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri May 21 15:22:49 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 14:22:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
In-Reply-To: <009401caf864$eb6d5730$c2480590$@rr.com>
References: <669345712.3996146.1274375154425.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>
	<009401caf864$eb6d5730$c2480590$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTil3jPev79b8Jrk63Gcpoq71K5HJVbUxQhCxIvER@mail.gmail.com>

On 5/20/10, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> What kind of oil?  3M, Wd40, 20w50 Castrol?
>
> I generally use motor oil, as I keep a squirt can of it on the bench...

Saw a friend checking the oil on his TR3 -- before he wiped the oil
off the dipstick he touched the end of it to each of the throttle
links leaving a drop of oil each time.  Thought that was an
interesting trick and one way to remember to frequently lube those
things which are prone to wearing & ovalling.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri May 21 15:28:39 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 14:28:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Clutch Master Cylinder rebuild
In-Reply-To: <730B3B46-3EF5-40E4-938B-AA65B64D2686@gmail.com>
References: <730B3B46-3EF5-40E4-938B-AA65B64D2686@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin7WUyhcnE6xMzgaaudhbolmtya1OSe54RaLv-n@mail.gmail.com>

On 5/21/10, John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com> wrote:
> ...Do I need to pull the entire master cylinder assembly
> or is it possible replace the seal with the cylinder in place???

I suppose a crafty person could get at it w/o removing it from the
bracket but I think the removal is simple enough that it isn't worth
the effort to try to do it in situ.

In case you're not aware, there is a metal plate on the firewall
behind the bracket that you remove from inside the car -- gives easy
access to the lower bolt that secures the master cylinder.  Also, I do
not remove the wiper motor and head, just unbolt the mount from the
body and rotate it out of the way (as I recall you have to loosen the
nut on the output of the drive head to get the thing to rotate that
way).

Geo

From chandler.rick at comcast.net  Fri May 21 15:29:17 2010
From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 14:29:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <4A9210ACD52140CFA4035CD27AD0A6FE@ricksoffice>

Silicone brake fluid does develop air bubbles when agitated. An hour or so
sitting quietly on the shelf takes care of the problem. I use it in all of
my toys, four and two wheeled. It is expensive in small quantities, not so
much in pint or quart containers. Unlike other hydraulic fluids, it is not
hydroscopic and can be resealed and kept for a long time on the shelf. It's
a hobbyist's dream.  

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 Triumph TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1972 Norton 750 Commando Combat

1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri May 21 15:31:37 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 14:31:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Clutch Master Cylinder rebuild
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin7WUyhcnE6xMzgaaudhbolmtya1OSe54RaLv-n@mail.gmail.com>
References: <730B3B46-3EF5-40E4-938B-AA65B64D2686@gmail.com>
	<AANLkTin7WUyhcnE6xMzgaaudhbolmtya1OSe54RaLv-n@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimG0wkFG_zf45JYpzptUUM-8QESYSdsWNjIuQLc@mail.gmail.com>

Oh, one more tip.  I always reconnect the hard lines to the master
cylinder before I tighten the bolts that hold the MC to the bracket.
Sometimes you need some wiggle room to get those hard line connections
started.

Geo

On 5/21/10, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
> On 5/21/10, John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> ...Do I need to pull the entire master cylinder assembly
>> or is it possible replace the seal with the cylinder in place???

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri May 21 15:37:09 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 14:37:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <019b01caf90d$b2769f50$1763ddf0$@rr.com>
References: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com>
	<019b01caf90d$b2769f50$1763ddf0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilaHreASiHr2NJPN9mjDDthI0wgrW1rteeHe800@mail.gmail.com>

On 5/21/10, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> But TRF has it on sale at the moment (ends today, May 21) for $15/quart.
> P/N SBF32

Or... less than $14 everyday here (and free shipping if you get some
other stuff):

http://www.amazon.com/North-American-NA40-Silicone-Brake/dp/B001BB1GCI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1274477651&sr=1-1

That's the same brand TRF sells.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 21 21:33:32 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 20:33:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilaHreASiHr2NJPN9mjDDthI0wgrW1rteeHe800@mail.gmail.com>
References: <5F771731-44E6-424B-84DD-95961BDCA55B@gmail.com><019b01caf90d$b2769f50$1763ddf0$@rr.com>
	<AANLkTilaHreASiHr2NJPN9mjDDthI0wgrW1rteeHe800@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <19bc01caf95f$8db96fb0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Or... less than $14 everyday here (and free shipping if you get some
> other stuff):

Good find, by George!

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 21 21:35:08 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 20:35:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTil3jPev79b8Jrk63Gcpoq71K5HJVbUxQhCxIvER@mail.gmail.com>
References: <669345712.3996146.1274375154425.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net><009401caf864$eb6d5730$c2480590$@rr.com>
	<AANLkTil3jPev79b8Jrk63Gcpoq71K5HJVbUxQhCxIvER@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <19bd01caf95f$c6da11f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Saw a friend checking the oil on his TR3 -- before he wiped the oil
> off the dipstick he touched the end of it to each of the throttle
> links leaving a drop of oil each time.  

I use a similar trick to put a drop of oil in the end of the distributor
shaft from time to time.

Randall

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri May 21 22:31:24 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 00:31:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] PDWA switch
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946084@CMS01.winhosting.local>

I am re-building my PDWA. Using Nelson Riedel's very nice note from the
Buckeye site.

I picked up the o-rings from a seals place nearby and, miracle-of-miracles,
got the thing apart and the shuttle out using only needle-nose pliers. No air
blasts required, thank heavens because I do not have a compresser set up.

I have an interesting issue with the switch. Nelson's article states a very
low resistance between plunger and terminals when activated (1 Ohm). I am
seeing about 10M ohm when unpressed and about 0.7 M ohm when pressed. I guess
the internals are soaked with silicone fluid, since the leak through the
switch is what got me started on this. I'm assuming some sort of film covering
the contacts.

Is this normal, or do I have to soak the switch in something to get it working
better? I'm assuming that the 12V of the system and constant pressure will
provide a better pathway than the output voltage of my Beckman VTOM.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From agraham at execulink.com  Sat May 22 10:09:45 2010
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 12:09:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tab washers or lock washers?
Message-ID: <4BF801C9.2000304@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Wondering about replacing some of the tab washers (flywheel, axle 
flanges, front end) in my recent side-screen rebuild with lock washers 
and Lock-tite. Many of the tabs are beat up and always seem to forget to 
order the tab washers on parts orders.
Any experiences? Are tab washers still used in more modern applications?
Thanks for any feedback on this.
Angelo Graham

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat May 22 10:28:56 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 09:28:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED Bulbs
Message-ID: <a06240803c81db661adba@[192.168.2.4]>

I have forgotten the name of the person selling the LED bulbs at 
Triumphest ... please refresh this old, tired memory ...

Thanks
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat May 22 11:02:46 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 12:02:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <a06240803c81db661adba@[192.168.2.4]>
References: <a06240803c81db661adba@[192.168.2.4]>
Message-ID: <21A8E014C1114EC3AB2C5E3A19BEDFC7@ranteer.local>

www.litezupp.com  

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2010 11:28 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] LED Bulbs

> I have forgotten the name of the person selling the LED bulbs at 
> Triumphest ... please refresh this old, tired memory ...
> 
> Thanks
> -- 
> "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
> undertake it." - Henry Ford
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3
> "Casper"
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA 

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sat May 22 11:33:43 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 13:33:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tab washers or lock washers?
In-Reply-To: <4BF801C9.2000304@execulink.com>
References: <4BF801C9.2000304@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W35C6BD60368F97DDA1F6CAA5E50@phx.gbl>

> Wondering about replacing some of the tab washers (flywheel, axle
> flanges, front end) ...

> Any experiences? Are tab washers still used in more modern applications?
> Thanks for any feedback on this.
> Angelo Graham


The axle flange bolts on my TR3 racecar were loose, even though the tabs had
been bent over the heads. The man who rebuilt the axle for me used lockwashers
instead of locktabs. He does this as a matter of course on all rebuilds.



John H.

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Sat May 22 13:28:04 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (HANS DEFERRANTE)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 12:28:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tuning question and 1 oil question
In-Reply-To: <19bd01caf95f$c6da11f0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <669345712.3996146.1274375154425.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net><009401caf864$eb6d5730$c2480590$@rr.com>
	<AANLkTil3jPev79b8Jrk63Gcpoq71K5HJVbUxQhCxIvER@mail.gmail.com>
	<19bd01caf95f$c6da11f0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <2EFC50E2-D6B2-4E10-8DAB-8A596D34F68A@roadrunner.com>

Good idea. I am including the generator bushing too( there is a  
little hole for it at the end). Didn't know about it and learned the  
hard way - had to rebuild the generator.
Hans

On May 21, 2010, at 8:35 PM, Randall wrote:

>> Saw a friend checking the oil on his TR3 -- before he wiped the oil
>> off the dipstick he touched the end of it to each of the throttle
>> links leaving a drop of oil each time.
>
> I use a similar trick to put a drop of oil in the end of the  
> distributor
> shaft from time to time.
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ 
> tr3 at roadrunner.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 22 13:41:06 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 12:41:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tab washers or lock washers?
In-Reply-To: <4BF801C9.2000304@execulink.com>
References: <4BF801C9.2000304@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <1a9701caf9e6$b90160b0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Are tab washers still used in more modern 
> applications?

I've not seen any, but that may be a cost issue more than what works best.
Newer cars seem to use mostly distorted threads for locking, presumably
because they are just as cheap as good threads.

But I believe Kas Kastner recommended removing the tabs in several locations
(rod bolts, flywheel bolts), and Carroll Smith called them "idiot devices".
(Of course he also called lock washers the "least effective" locking
method.)

On yet another hand though, "If it ain't broke ..."  These cars have
survived a remarkably long time, they must've gotten things mostly right.

Randall

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat May 22 18:06:44 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 20:06:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] brakes
Message-ID: <DD166E0A660146F7A6F020F86DE7E23A@Alan>

I recently finished rebuilding a 74 tr6.
I rebuilt the front calipers and put in new rear brake cylinders and shoes,
along with new brake lines.
We.ve bleed it a couple of times and it still does't have a real hard pedal.
It also doesn't want to stop real good.  Very squirely braking from over 55.
I rebuilt the brakes on my 76 awhile ago and haven't experienced any thing
like this, and they are rock hard.

I also notice a slight thud noise when the brakes are first applied.  I am
thinking that its coming from the servo and the the servo may need some work.
I haven't needed a servo repaired before,  any particular places recommended
and price range.

Al

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat May 22 22:41:28 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 00:41:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 - Under dash help
Message-ID: <060A09CB2CDA47F492438CAC1BB7DB04@CarlPC>

I took a bunch of pictures under the dash - the heater, pedals, cubby, etc 
as well as the master cylinder 'area' under the hood of the TR3.   Pictures 
were taken in 2001 and I thought all were converted to images for the 
computer.  However it is like one roll of film is missing.

I would appreciate any images that anyone may want to share.  I have all of 
these parts and basic idea of what it should be but nothing to reference 
except the parts catalog.

Thanks in advance.  either links to images or attachments off list would be 
fine.

Carl
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
photos updated 5/18/2010. 

From michael.stenhouse at c2i.net  Sun May 23 02:25:21 2010
From: michael.stenhouse at c2i.net (michael.stenhouse at c2i.net)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 10:25:21 +0200
Subject: [TR] brakes
In-Reply-To: <DD166E0A660146F7A6F020F86DE7E23A@Alan>
References: <DD166E0A660146F7A6F020F86DE7E23A@Alan>
Message-ID: <web-148381929@mailbe03.swip.net>


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun May 23 06:22:50 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 08:22:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] brakes
In-Reply-To: <DD166E0A660146F7A6F020F86DE7E23A@Alan>
References: <DD166E0A660146F7A6F020F86DE7E23A@Alan>
Message-ID: <CE1158E229AC4401A900A04645EE5968@laptopPC>

Al,
Seeing as you've done TR6 brakes before, I assume you've got both the front 
& rear reservoirs of the M/C filled. After that make sure you've bled all 
the air out of the system or you'll have a soft mushy feel and inconsistent 
braking. As far as the servo goes, I went with Ted Schmuacher at TSI 
(http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/). Ted's been in the LBC business for 
45 years and carries quality parts. His web site doesn't always list 
everything he carries so give him a call or drop him an email about rebuilt 
servos. I got mine from him and it looks brand new.  You do a core exchange 
with him. I also got my rebuilt calipers from him.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 running with
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


--------------------------------------------------
From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2010 8:06 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] brakes

> I recently finished rebuilding a 74 tr6.
> I rebuilt the front calipers and put in new rear brake cylinders and 
> shoes,
> along with new brake lines.
> We.ve bleed it a couple of times and it still does't have a real hard 
> pedal.
> It also doesn't want to stop real good.  Very squirely braking from over 
> 55.
> I rebuilt the brakes on my 76 awhile ago and haven't experienced any thing
> like this, and they are rock hard.
>
> I also notice a slight thud noise when the brakes are first applied.  I am
> thinking that its coming from the servo and the the servo may need some 
> work.
> I haven't needed a servo repaired before,  any particular places 
> recommended
> and price range.
>
> Al
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sun May 23 06:59:11 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 08:59:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] brakes
In-Reply-To: <CE1158E229AC4401A900A04645EE5968@laptopPC>
References: <DD166E0A660146F7A6F020F86DE7E23A@Alan>
	<CE1158E229AC4401A900A04645EE5968@laptopPC>
Message-ID: <8CCC88EDF64C9A8-229C-D1E9@webmail-m023.sysops.aol.com>

 Al,

One problem I once had was getting all the air out of the slave cylinder.  No
matter how much I tried bleeding while it was mounted properly on the car I
could not get all the air bubbles out.  While leaving all the hydraulics
connected I loosened the mounts for the slave, wired off the plunger so it
could not move, then let the slave hang down vertically.  I then watched a
bunch of air bubbles make their way up the line.  When I mounted everything
back up I had solved my problem.

Having said that, I would take a look at the front calipers also.  The noise
you mentioned does not sound right and finding the source of the noise could
show you your problem.  If one of the pistons in your calipers was sticking
then that would cause the noise when it let go.  If it then came back to
normal position slowly then your brake pedal would be soft.

Also, check to make sure that there is not excess play in the front wheel
bearing.  If the bearing isnt snug then each time you press the brakes the
pistons in the calipers could get knocked back in far enough so that the next
time you used the brakes the pedal would feel soft.

If the servo was bad then you would have to use an excessive amount of force
to apply the brakes, but the pedal would still be hard.  This is not what you
are describing.  I am not sure of the condition of your servo but I am
doubtful that what you are describing for a problem could be attributed to the
servo.

Please let us know what you find out.  We love a mystery.

Cheers,

Aaron






-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: Al Salvatore <tr6parts at charter.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, May 23, 2010 8:22 am
Subject: Re: [TR] brakes


Al,
Seeing as you've done TR6 brakes before, I assume you've got both the front &
rear reservoirs of the M/C filled. After that make sure you've bled all the
air out of the system or you'll have a soft mushy feel and inconsistent
braking. As far as the servo goes, I went with Ted Schmuacher at TSI
(http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/). Ted's been in the LBC business for 45
years and carries quality parts. His web site doesn't always list everything
he carries so give him a call or drop him an email about rebuilt servos. I got
mine from him and it looks brand new.  You do a core exchange with him. I also
got my rebuilt calipers from him.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 running with
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2010 8:06 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] brakes

> I recently finished rebuilding a 74 tr6.
> I rebuilt the front calipers and put in new rear brake cylinders and >
shoes,
> along with new brake lines.
> We.ve bleed it a couple of times and it still does't have a real hard >
pedal.
> It also doesn't want to stop real good.  Very squirely braking from over >
55.
> I rebuilt the brakes on my 76 awhile ago and haven't experienced any thing
> like this, and they are rock hard.
>
> I also notice a slight thud noise when the brakes are first applied.  I am
> thinking that its coming from the servo and the the servo may need some >
work.
> I haven't needed a servo repaired before,  any particular places >
recommended
> and price range.
>
> Al
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Sun May 23 09:49:49 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 10:49:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Re LED Bulbs
Message-ID: <526B0249-BA20-4BB8-9ED1-B5AAD336D267@ties2.net>

I have bought bulbs from this seller, much cheaper, seem to work

http://www.superbrightleds.com/

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun May 23 15:03:42 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 16:03:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Re LED Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <526B0249-BA20-4BB8-9ED1-B5AAD336D267@ties2.net>
References: <526B0249-BA20-4BB8-9ED1-B5AAD336D267@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <787648542A124A999B4A0E6C760CEB8C@ranteer.local>

to quote their web site:

"Brightness of LED Car Bulbs
LED bulbs are generally not as bright as standard incandescent bulbs, they 
have many advantages over filament bulbs (longer life, faster on/off times, 
lower power consumption, more vivid colors) but brightness is not one of 
them."

LItezupp "bulbs" are MUCH brighter than incandescent bulbs.  Much, much 
brighter.

if you are just interested in led's (or the cheapest), go with those people.

if you want a really bright bulb that uses very little power and never gets 
hot, go with litezupp



--------------------------------------------------
From: "Joe DeMuth" <jdemuth at ties2.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 10:49 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Re LED Bulbs

> I have bought bulbs from this seller, much cheaper, seem to work
>
> http://www.superbrightleds.com/

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Sun May 23 15:20:15 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 17:20:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED Lights at Triumphest
Message-ID: <AANLkTik5XHRfsbsG1EWXohldDjn1RsduQ5DqH6R6uSCZ@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Bill,

You mean Litzupp, I think. Jim and Chris have just launched a new website:
http://www.litezupp.com/

I highly recommend these lamps. After club members saw my litezupp lights in
my TR4 when I came back from Triumphest, my club (Delaware Valley Triumphs)
ordered enough lamps for most of the active members... I think now 35 or so
of us are driving with Litezupp and with the peace of mind that our tail
lights are now as bright as current cars. Today, we ran an efficiency run to
see who could pull off the best mpg, and several times I noted that it was
great to see club members' cars in busy traffic with tail lights as bright
as any car around. I think it an important safety factor for the sport we
all enjoy.

Regarding Joe's suggestion for Superbright LEDs, Litzupp lamps have a very
wide visibility unlike regular LEDs (can be seen from an oblique angle). Are
they brighter? I don't know. I do know the guys that make them are members
of the Triumph community. Put one in your hand next to a Superbright LED and
you'll see why Litezupp cost what they do.

Cheers, Brian (no financial interest).

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Sun May 23 15:56:30 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 14:56:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED Lights at Triumphest
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik5XHRfsbsG1EWXohldDjn1RsduQ5DqH6R6uSCZ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTik5XHRfsbsG1EWXohldDjn1RsduQ5DqH6R6uSCZ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2F8CBFE0-9AE4-438D-824A-50F61AA1E710@gmail.com>

I have Litezupp bulbs for the brake/running lights on my TR3 & my 911 and
agree with Brian, they are a lot brighter.

Based on that success I bought yellow ones for the TR3's front turn
signal/running lights, but (I believe because of the lack of facets in the
inside on the "beehive" cover) they did not seem as bright.  I then put the in
my 911 with a faceted lens & they appeared a lot brighter.

John

On  23 May, 2010, at 2:20 PM, Brian Jones wrote:

> Hello Bill,
>
> You mean Litzupp, I think. Jim and Chris have just launched a new website:
> http://www.litezupp.com/

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au  Sun May 23 17:28:12 2010
From: john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au (John Mc )
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 09:28:12 +1000
Subject: [TR] brakes
Message-ID: <6F0D6AE6136343248A51F501AFEEEAF8@johnqg3ed0cywf>

Hi Al,

I recently had to bleed the brakes on my '6 following a ruptured brake line
(don't ask, but let's just say
that 12 volts creates quite an arc when earthed through a brake line!).  I
also experienced a soft spongy
pedal after bleeding and what I found was that the rear brake reservoir (the
smaller front reservoir in the
MC) had run dry and caused the shuttle in the PDWA switch to move meaning that
no fluid was being transferred
to the rear wheel cylinders.  We removed the PDWA switch and re-centred the
shuttle and had no problems with
bleeding after that.  Note that the manual does give a different way of
bleeding than most often used, stating
that you should use long slow strokes while the bleeder is open.  Most times
I've bled brakes you pound the
peddle to bring up pressure then release the bleeder.  In any case, if the
shuttle in the PDWA is centred,
either way should work.  Just to be sure, I had mine professionally pressure
bled.  $60 for piece of mind.

All the best,

John Mc
"Fast is First"
'71 TR6 PI
'76 Dolomite Sprint
'76 Dolomite 1850
'66 2000 Estate

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Sun May 23 18:14:42 2010
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 20:14:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 brakes
Message-ID: <BE4D4E81-377A-40A7-82CF-7F354DD72529@verizon.net>

List,
I'm making progress,  just not in a foward direction.
First, my email is not working, so I'm on backup typing with my  
thumbs.  Arg.!
I had planned to update the list on my prgress but that will be  
another time.
After working the bugs out of the electrical system ( horns either  
wouldn't work or wouln't stop) I moved on to the brakes. After  
replaacing all the lines and brake cylinders and rebuilding the front  
calipers I thought I'd be ready to start up the engine for the first  
time. Not so. The R front caliper bleed valve won't seat so fluid  
pours out after the valve is screwed all the way down. So I thought  
about
Converting to the Toyota caliper but I 'm not sure I want to to tackle  
this. I can't even get the dust cap off. So has anybody had any  
expriences with converting to the Toyota caliper?  Or should  I just  
find another R front caliper and rebuild it? Of course my goal was to  
be driving it this Spring. Ha!
Gary O

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun May 23 19:37:45 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 21:37:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE
Message-ID: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>

List, i have a engine form a classic mini cooper that a perspective buyer  
from another country wants to buy. the buyer will do a western union bank 
wire  transfer and he wants me to ship the engine to a P.O. box. am i looking 
for  trouble?   regards,  larry schwartz

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sun May 23 21:00:25 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 23:00:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE
In-Reply-To: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>
References: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CCC904645A4A62-208C-10C07@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com>

YES. Don't do it.


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us



-----Original Message-----
From: L1J1S at aol.com
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, May 23, 2010 9:37 pm
Subject: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE


List, i have a engine form a classic mini cooper that a perspective buyer
from another country wants to buy. the buyer will do a western union bank
wire  transfer and he wants me to ship the engine to a P.O. box. am i looking
for  trouble?   regards,  larry schwartz

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sun May 23 22:14:37 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 00:14:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE
In-Reply-To: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>
References: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946089@CMS01.winhosting.local>

The only way I would even think about this is if you have cash in your hand
for all possible costs before hand and then I would ship the engine.

However, the words "Western Union" scream out FRAUD FRAUD!!!!

Only if you have had real telephone conversations with the person; not e-mail
and had them give you a bank that you can call would I even thing about it.
Possible a reference from the mayor of the local town and a priest; not the
police chief; they are corrupt in Nigeria.

If they were buying something from you then I would not dream of even trying
it. I have been victimized by people usinng WU before. They are cunning SOBs.
In a moment of great stupidity, I got hit for a packet by someone who had been
mining old e-mails and web sites and was a good faker.

However, IF and only IF you have US cash money in your hands ahead of any any
effort on your part, then it is hard to see the down side. But I could be
wrong, there must be one!!

Again, Western Union and PO box are total giveaways to a LIAR and a THIEF. I
am just not familiar with this version of the scam; there may be a third party
involved that is also a victim or just a scumulous thing on two legs.

Best regards and very best of luck.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6


________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com [L1J1S at aol.com]
Sent: May 23, 2010 9:37 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE

List, i have a engine form a classic mini cooper that a perspective buyer
from another country wants to buy. the buyer will do a western union bank
wire  transfer and he wants me to ship the engine to a P.O. box. am i looking
for  trouble?   regards,  larry schwartz

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 24 00:18:30 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 23:18:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE
In-Reply-To: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>
References: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1d5a01cafb08$eea596a0$0301a8c0@randall>

> the buyer will do a 
> western union bank wire  transfer 

Why would he go to Western Union instead of his own bank?  Not a common
scam, but smells suspicious to me.

At the very least, you should open an account just for this transfer, and
not release the engine until you have cash in hand (not just a balance on an
account).  At least that way, he won't get access to your real account
number.

Normally, WU is pretty good about making sure they have the money before
they do a transfer; but if it does turn out they have been defrauded, you
know who they will come looking for to get their money back!  You might even
get a nice vacation in the local calaboose out of the deal.

> he wants me to ship the engine to a P.O. box.

This is a joke, right?  The post office isn't going to take an engine, and
no one else is allowed to deliver to post office boxes.

Let me guess: The next step is that he will change his mind about the engine
(since it can't be shipped to a PO Box), and you should send him 'his' money
back.  Then about 3 weeks later, the fraud will be discovered and you'll
have to give the money back, again.

Randall

From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Mon May 24 01:48:45 2010
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 00:48:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] lucas techinical training informatiion
References: <mailman.13629.1274355199.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DBEC9C08F5AE4D47885BB0B081B63F26@your89d26e0447>

There is some wonderful information here!  Thanks for posting this text. I 
have just finished printing the complete course.
    Has anyone ever seen a similar set of information concerning "Smiths" 
instrumentation?  If anyone has access to it, is there any chance to get 
that published?
                                                                             
                Greg Solow
                                                                             
                The Engine Room
                                                                             
                Santa Cruz, Ca. 

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon May 24 06:26:52 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 08:26:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] LED Lights at Triumphest
Message-ID: <48651.3da58a01.392bca8c@aol.com>

Hi All,
 
I'm one of the club members with Litezupp LED tailights that Brian spoke of 
 taking part in the high mileage efficiency run on Saturday and I have to  
echo his comments.
 
My car is restored and I did spend a lot of time cleaning and detailing the 
 tailight reflectors and lenses during restoration so the stock 1157 bulbs 
didn't  look too dim in comparison to TR6's with older untouched lenses.  
For that  reason I didn't buy the LEDs when our club offered them for sale 
but, this past  winter I won a pair of LiteZupps at our club holiday party and 
installed  them.
 
All that you've read is true.  They have remarkable light output which  is 
amazingly very wide angle.  During our run on Saturday I  swapped positions 
in the caravan a few times and got behind Brian and one of the  TR3's - his 
point is well taken.  But, what is really impressive  is how well the lamps 
work in the tailights of the TR3's even in bright  sunlight. 
 
No financial interest here.....just another man's opinion:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 5/23/2010 5:38:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tr4zest at gmail.com writes:

we ran  an efficiency run to
see who could pull off the best mpg, and several times  I noted that it was
great to see club members' cars in busy traffic with  tail lights as bright
as any car around. I think it an important safety  factor for the sport we
all  enjoy.

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon May 24 06:28:45 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 07:28:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE
In-Reply-To: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>
References: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W300989BD521F5370AE182EE1E70@phx.gbl>

What the others said.

It SCREAMS scam to me.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> From: L1J1S at aol.com
> Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 21:37:45 -0400
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE
>
> List, i have a engine form a classic mini cooper that a perspective buyer
> from another country wants to buy. the buyer will do a western union bank
> wire transfer and he wants me to ship the engine to a P.O. box. am i looking
> for trouble? regards, larry schwartz
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From mmarr at notwires.com  Mon May 24 07:27:37 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 08:27:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE
References: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>
	<1d5a01cafb08$eea596a0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <356BD6E93DFF4F119373A88587BC4EF3@trigeni.com>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 1:18 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE


>
> Let me guess: The next step is that he will change his mind about the 
> engine
> (since it can't be shipped to a PO Box), and you should send him 'his' 
> money
> back.  Then about 3 weeks later, the fraud will be discovered and you'll
> have to give the money back, again.
>
> Randall
>

Another scam that I have read about is that they transfer a higher amount, 
"by mistake" or "to cover unplanned costs" and then ask for the seller to 
send them the balance after the deal is done.  Then the seller is out both 
the goods and the difference between what they transferred and the amount he 
sent back.

Mike 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon May 24 08:04:56 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 10:04:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Non TR3 question
Message-ID: <3B10C026DF4D4BAE89DB1290500B026A@AlexPC>

Hello all,
Not a TR3 question but a TR6 question.

Moss Motors sells an upgrade SU carb setup. My friend just bought a 1970 TR6
with this SU setup. The PO had to install a pressure regulator off the new
mechanical pump from Moss,because it was pumping close to 7 lbs. This caused
gas to pour out of two brass tubes coming out of the top of fuel bowls. Once
installed the problem no longer existed.

These tubes are the kind that would have some kind of tubing attached to it.
It reminds me of the vent tube on a TR3 that comes from the fuel bowl to the
airfilter.

My concern was the direction these tubes point. Right to the exhaust manifold.
Then I put my fingers over the tube openings and the car stalled within 10
seconds. So they are definitely sucking air. I was told that nothing needed to
go over these tubes and Moss did not supply directions. They (Moss) also
indicated that they never heard of the gas problem coming from these tubes.

At the very least I would want to filter these tubes as they are pulling air
in. The original carbon canister was taken off. I am considering reinstalling
the canister (if we can find it) and venting these two tubes to the canister.

Anyone have any experience or thoughts.

Alex Manzo
72 TR6
59 TR3A

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon May 24 08:27:43 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 14:27:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE
In-Reply-To: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>
Message-ID: <267057712.527951274711263550.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> List, i have a engine form a classic mini cooper that a perspective
> buyer  
> from another country wants to buy. the buyer will do a western union
> bank 
> wire  transfer and he wants me to ship the engine to a P.O. box. am i
> looking 
> for  trouble?   

This screams SCAM so loudly that I originally assumed your post was a joke.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Mon May 24 08:45:41 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 10:45:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE
In-Reply-To: <1d5a01cafb08$eea596a0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <39d62.212ef679.392b3269@aol.com>,
	<1d5a01cafb08$eea596a0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94608A@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Randall:

WU is the instrument of choice of these creatures. I agree 100% this is a
fraud. However, when I got robbed, WU required cash or debit before initiating
the transfer and then output cash at the other end. When I reported the theft
to them, RCMP etc, I was told I was SOL and there was no way to fix it. WU
just said, they had shipped cash as required and that was it. And that was
with me finding out literally minutes afterward. I'm wondering how the VM
(reference the Princess Bride) on the other end sets it up to win on this one.
They have no interest in goods and you cannot ship a transmission to a PO box,
so somehow they intend to rob you without re-selling the unit to some other
poor sucker. Claiming they have sent too much money and hoping you will return
balance before actually seeing the initial seems the only chance. I guess it
would depend upon using a non-final device (cheque or fake draft) at their
end, but as you said WU is fairly leery about that. They know they are
operating a thieve's highway.

Anyway, in my point of view, the only solution for these types is to manacle
their feet to the ground about two foot apart and then split them up the
middle using a very large-toothed sawzall. But I digress...

Mark


________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall [tr3driver at ca.rr.com]
Sent: May 24, 2010 2:18 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-non TR- ADVICE

> the buyer will do a
> western union bank wire  transfer

Why would he go to Western Union instead of his own bank?  Not a common
scam, but smells suspicious to me.

At the very least, you should open an account just for this transfer, and
not release the engine until you have cash in hand (not just a balance on an
account).  At least that way, he won't get access to your real account
number.

Normally, WU is pretty good about making sure they have the money before
they do a transfer; but if it does turn out they have been defrauded, you
know who they will come looking for to get their money back!  You might even
get a nice vacation in the local calaboose out of the deal.

> he wants me to ship the engine to a P.O. box.

This is a joke, right?  The post office isn't going to take an engine, and
no one else is allowed to deliver to post office boxes.

Let me guess: The next step is that he will change his mind about the engine
(since it can't be shipped to a PO Box), and you should send him 'his' money
back.  Then about 3 weeks later, the fraud will be discovered and you'll
have to give the money back, again.

Randall

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon May 24 09:07:27 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 11:07:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TEN COMMANDMENTS FOR TRIUMPH OWNERS
Message-ID: <2da4e.11ed00f3.392bf02f@aol.com>

Hey Listers,
I thought I would share this from the NCTA TRCoaster June Newsletter.   My 
good buddy Ken has found a lot of stuff from his 76 TR6 including issue #1 
of  the 6-PACK newsletter.
Enjoy,
Darrell 
 
 
 
 
TEN COMMANDMENTS FOR TRIUMPH
OWNERS
Due to a sudden overheating  problem with the TR6, I
was looking thru my parts boxes and found a copy  of
the VTR and Triumph Sports Owners Association
newsletter for Mar/April  1983. It was mailed to the
previous owner of my TR and the postage was  11
cents. That's note worthy in its self. As I was looking
thru the  newsletter I found the following 10
Commandments:
1. Thou shalt not store  thy Triumph out-of-doors,
except for thy wife's modern iron.
2. Thou shalt  not covet thy neighbor's Triumph,
nor his garage, nor his battery  charger.
3. Thou shalt not love thy Triumph more than thy
wife and  children, as much, but not more.
4. Thou shalt not read thy English Channel  on
company time, lest thy employer make it
impossible to continue thy car  payments.
5. Thou shalt not despise thy neighbor's 240Z, nor
his Mazda,  nor even his 1948 MGTC.
6. Thou shalt not deceive thy wife into  thinking
that thee is taking her for a romantic Sunday
drive when, indeed,  thou art going out to look at
another Triumph.
7. Thou shalt not allow thy  daughters nor thy sons
to get married during the hold days of a  VTR
Convention.
8. Thou shalt not tell thy spouse the entire cost  of
thy latest restoration, at least not all at the
same time.
9. Thou  shalt not promise thy wife a new addition
to the house and then use it to  store Triumphs
in the attic.
10. Thou shalt not buy thy wife a floor jack  for
Christmas, unless it is for her Triumph.

Another piece of Triumph Significa that I found in the
newsletter was  the following: Did you know that a TR-2
front apron was used as a model for  the face of E.T.?
Ken Kreiner

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Mon May 24 10:16:23 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 12:16:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] 299 dollar weber conversion for TR6
Message-ID: <AANLkTilrrWFaJe3YmCwwwSDABNxWG02XqEMA-CA6H0Xa@mail.gmail.com>

Was talking with a friend about a Weber conversion kit for 300 dollars.

Has anyone on the list used this set up on their TR6 or TR4 -  I'm
particularly interested in the possibility of using it on my TR4.

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk165.htm

Thanks!

Chris

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Mon May 24 10:48:19 2010
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 12:48:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carb Vent Tubes (was: Non TR3 Question)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.14618.1274709836.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.14618.1274709836.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CCC9780C6530DE-1220-1F2B@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>

 Hi Alex,

I believe you are looking at the fuel/float bowl vent tubes on those SU carbs.

This vent is only there to allow air pressure to equalize in the bowls, to
prevent a vacuum from forming (that would stop proper fuel flow).

Plugging the vent tube with your finger causes that vacuum and prevents fuel
from flowing out of the bowl into the venturi of the carb, causing the car to
stall.

SU are passive carbs... They don't have any sort of internal accelerator pump
and simply use the engine's own vacuum to draw fuel through the carb (metered
by the carb), through the intake manifold, and on into the combustion chamber.
As you might imagine, this isn't a particularly strong flow, so any sort of
counter vacuum in the fuel bowl can stop the flow of fuel pretty quickly.

The reason a vacuum would form in the fuel bowl is that as the fuel is drawn
out and the level drops, air needs to be let in to replace it.

So there's really little or no need to filter the air flow into the fuel bowl
through that vent. Most older carb designs have some sort of vent for their
fuel/float bowls, that's simply open to the atmosphere (modern carbs might be
better sealed or filtered, but that's more to prevent hydrocarbon emissions
from fuel evaporation than to avoid particulates entering the bowl). The air
in the fuel bowl is not directly any significant part of the fuel/air mix
that's eventually finding it's way into the engine.

Note: If there is a problem with the needle valve in the float/fuel bowl not
doing it's job - due to wear or incorrect fit or damage to the needle or it's
seat - or if the fuel pressure from the fuel pump exceeds the sealing
abilities of the needle valve, then yes, that float/fuel bowl vent tube might
become an overflow tube, with excess fuel forced out of it. Not a good thing,
so that's why it's important to not over-pressurize the fuel system and to
insure the needle valves are working properly.



Alan Myers
San Jose, California
amfoto1 at aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L

  http://www.triumphowners.com/640


-----Original Message-----

------------------------------

Message: 14
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 10:04:56 -0400
From: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
Subject: [TR] Non TR3 question
To: "*Triumphs List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <3B10C026DF4D4BAE89DB1290500B026A at AlexPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hello all,
Not a TR3 question but a TR6 question.

Moss Motors sells an upgrade SU carb setup. My friend just bought a 1970 TR6
with this SU setup. The PO had to install a pressure regulator off the new
mechanical pump from Moss,because it was pumping close to 7 lbs. This caused
gas to pour out of two brass tubes coming out of the top of fuel bowls. Once
installed the problem no longer existed.

These tubes are the kind that would have some kind of tubing attached to it.
It reminds me of the vent tube on a TR3 that comes from the fuel bowl to the
airfilter.

My concern was the direction these tubes point. Right to the exhaust
manifold.
Then I put my fingers over the tube openings and the car stalled within 10
seconds. So they are definitely sucking air. I was told that nothing needed
to
go over these tubes and Moss did not supply directions. They (Moss) also
indicated that they never heard of the gas problem coming from these tubes.

At the very least I would want to filter these tubes as they are pulling air
in. The original carbon canister was taken off. I am considering reinstalling
the canister (if we can find it) and venting these two tubes to the canister.

Anyone have any experience or thoughts.

Alex Manzo
72 TR6
59 TR3A


------------------------------

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 24 10:51:53 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 09:51:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Non TR3 question
In-Reply-To: <3B10C026DF4D4BAE89DB1290500B026A@AlexPC>
References: <3B10C026DF4D4BAE89DB1290500B026A@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <1daa01cafb61$69b4da60$0301a8c0@randall>

> Then I put my fingers over the tube openings and the car 
> stalled within 10
> seconds.

Do these tubes come from the top of the float bowls?  Or from the carb body?

If they are just bowl vents, then they shouldn't be sucking air.

The Moss website lists a pair of SU HS6 carbs; but HS6 were original to many
cars (including some TR4A).  Is your friend certain that the actual carbs on
the car came from Moss as a TR6 conversion?

Although Triumph and SU parted ways, SU carbs continued to be used on other
cars.  Lots of them had various emissions ports.

Randall

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon May 24 12:19:24 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 11:19:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] LEDs &  Flasher
Message-ID: <a06240801c820735191a6@[192.168.2.4]>

Thanks, from all the replies, I am pretty much sold, one more 
question.  I have heard there is some problem with using the original 
type turn signal flasher, the Litezupp website seems to indicate it 
should be replaced with a NAPA substitute, is this a problem ???

Thanks again

>Hello Bill,
>
>You mean Litzupp, I think. Jim and Chris have just launched a new 
>website: http://www.litezupp.com/
>
>I highly recommend these lamps. After club members saw my litezupp 
>lights in my TR4 when I came back to PA from Triumphest, our club 
>(Delaware Valley Triumphs) ordered enough lamps for most of the 
>active members of our club... I think now 35 or so of us are driving 
>with Litezupp and with the peace of mind that our tail lights are 
>now as bright as current cars.
>
>Today, we ran an efficiency run to see who could pull off the best 
>mileage, and several times I noted that it was great to see club 
>members cars in busy traffic with tail lights as bright as any car 
>around.
>
>I think it an important safety factor for the sport we all enjoy. Go for it!
>
>Cheers,
>
>Brian


--
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon May 24 13:06:44 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 12:06:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] LEDs &  Flasher
In-Reply-To: <a06240801c820735191a6@[192.168.2.4]>
References: <a06240801c820735191a6@[192.168.2.4]>
Message-ID: <C666257746524E939BE86FFD68FC8AF9@joepentiumnew>

I suspect that the flasher issue is due to the LED's not having as much
resistance as a regular bulb.  The resistance is important in causing the
flasher to operate properly.  

I'd say try it with the flasher you have and if it does not operate to your
satisfaction, then you can look at alternatives.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 11:19 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] LEDs & Flasher

Thanks, from all the replies, I am pretty much sold, one more 
question.  I have heard there is some problem with using the original 
type turn signal flasher, the Litezupp website seems to indicate it 
should be replaced with a NAPA substitute, is this a problem ???

Thanks again

>Hello Bill,
>
>You mean Litzupp, I think. Jim and Chris have just launched a new 
>website: http://www.litezupp.com/
>
>I highly recommend these lamps. After club members saw my litezupp 
>lights in my TR4 when I came back to PA from Triumphest, our club 
>(Delaware Valley Triumphs) ordered enough lamps for most of the 
>active members of our club... I think now 35 or so of us are driving 
>with Litezupp and with the peace of mind that our tail lights are 
>now as bright as current cars.
>
>Today, we ran an efficiency run to see who could pull off the best 
>mileage, and several times I noted that it was great to see club 
>members cars in busy traffic with tail lights as bright as any car 
>around.
>
>I think it an important safety factor for the sport we all enjoy. Go for
it!
>
>Cheers,
>
>Brian


--
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon May 24 13:15:56 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 19:15:56 +0000
Subject: [TR] LEDs &  Flasher
In-Reply-To: <a06240801c820735191a6@[192.168.2.4]>
References: <a06240801c820735191a6@[192.168.2.4]>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF260D@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Bill, the Lucas design for the flasher relies on small elves that live in a
metal container under the dash on a TR6. When you operate the flasher the
elves switch the circuit on and off. They feel the cold terribly however and
rely on a heated bi-metalic strip in the box to keep warm and this heater is
dependent on the wattage of the incandescent bulbs.

If you switch to LED's the heater wont work, the elves will move somewhere
warmer and the LED lamps will not flash. The solution is to use a modern
electronic flasher that could care less what the wattage is. The purists don't
like them because the starting sequence is wrong (the elves start with OFF)
and the cadence is wrong but I think most of us are happy if the flashers just
flash.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 2:19 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] LEDs & Flasher

Thanks, from all the replies, I am pretty much sold, one more
question.  I have heard there is some problem with using the original
type turn signal flasher, the Litezupp website seems to indicate it
should be replaced with a NAPA substitute, is this a problem ???

Thanks again

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Mon May 24 13:39:20 2010
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 15:39:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] 299 dollar weber conversion for TR6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1274724002.10878.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1274724002.10878.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CCC98FF056D0FE-D68-24F8@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>

 Hi Chris,

Those downdraft kits might be pretty useful if you are interested in improved
fuel mileage or just getting a car back on the road and reliable.

These particular Webers, including the manifold design, are not
performance-oriented and might take some of the sportiness out of your car.
For that you'd want one of the sidedraft Weber kits (a dual on a TR4, a triple
kit for a 6 cylinder model).

Or, if money were no object, a fuel injection conversion, complete with an
engine management system, might give both performance and fuel economy.




Alan Myers
San Jose, California
amfoto1 at aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L
http://www.triumphowners.com/640



-----Original Message-----

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 12:16:23 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
Subject: [TR] 299 dollar weber conversion for TR6
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
    <AANLkTilrrWFaJe3YmCwwwSDABNxWG02XqEMA-CA6H0Xa at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Was talking with a friend about a Weber conversion kit for 300 dollars.

Has anyone on the list used this set up on their TR6 or TR4 -  I'm
particularly interested in the possibility of using it on my TR4.

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk165.htm

Thanks!

Chris


------------------------------

From triumph.driver at gmail.com  Mon May 24 13:48:29 2010
From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 15:48:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] LEDs &  Flasher
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF260D@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <a06240801c820735191a6@[192.168.2.4]>
	<0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF260D@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <BEA2B2AC17974655A3F2F1672FF0AA78@chuck>

LOL!!  Great description, Stan.

Chuck
Xenia, OH
1965 TR4A
1970 GT6+

-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: [TR] LEDs & Flasher

Bill, the Lucas design for the flasher relies on small elves that live in a
metal container under the dash on a TR6. When you operate the flasher the
elves switch the circuit on and off. They feel the cold terribly however and
rely on a heated bi-metalic strip in the box to keep warm and this heater is
dependent on the wattage of the incandescent bulbs.

If you switch to LED's the heater wont work, the elves will move somewhere
warmer and the LED lamps will not flash. The solution is to use a modern
electronic flasher that could care less what the wattage is. The purists
don't like them because the starting sequence is wrong (the elves start with
OFF) and the cadence is wrong but I think most of us are happy if the
flashers just flash.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
Subject: [TR] LEDs & Flasher

Thanks, from all the replies, I am pretty much sold, one more question.  I
have heard there is some problem with using the original type turn signal
flasher, the Litezupp website seems to indicate it should be replaced with a
NAPA substitute, is this a problem ???

Thanks again

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Mon May 24 13:58:30 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 14:58:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED Lights, I'm no expert.
Message-ID: <D8586B13-032C-4328-8BA2-9D64B0DBEB8C@ties2.net>

I may not have bought the brightest bulb in the world, or be the  
brightest bulb on the list, but I do know the difference between $10  
and $50. The bulbs I got from SuperBrightLEDS are about twice as  
bright as the regular auto bulbs, so I'm happy. Also, the angle of  
view, because of the prisms in the plastic tail lamp seem to do an  
adequate job refracting the light. I'll mail pictures, if interested.

From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com  Mon May 24 14:25:34 2010
From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 13:25:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 299 dollar weber conversion for TR6
In-Reply-To: <8CCC98FF056D0FE-D68-24F8@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
References: <mailman.3.1274724002.10878.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CCC98FF056D0FE-D68-24F8@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <87144.88189.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

These are sidedrafts that Classic Motorsports fitted to great effect recently,
check our their archives for an article called 6 Pack. I'd love to see three
of these on a Goodparts manifold, I could have my webers and driveability too!
Steve
69 TR6 CC25805 LO


----- Original Message ----
From: Alan Myers
<amfoto1 at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, May 24, 2010 2:39:20
PM
Subject: Re: [TR] 299 dollar weber conversion for TR6

Hi Chris,

Those
downdraft kits might be pretty useful if you are interested in improved
fuel
mileage or just getting a car back on the road and reliable.

These particular
Webers, including the manifold design, are not
performance-oriented and might
take some of the sportiness out of your car.
For that you'd want one of the
sidedraft Weber kits (a dual on a TR4, a triple
kit for a 6 cylinder model).
Or, if money were no object, a fuel injection conversion, complete with an
engine management system, might give both performance and fuel economy.
Alan Myers
San Jose, California
amfoto1 at aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L
http://www.triumphowners.com/640



-----Original Message-----

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 12:16:23 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
Subject: [TR] 299 dollar weber conversion for TR6
To: list Triumph
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
   
<AANLkTilrrWFaJe3YmCwwwSDABNxWG02XqEMA-CA6H0Xa at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Was talking with a friend about a Weber
conversion kit for 300 dollars.

Has anyone on the list used this set up on
their TR6 or TR4 -  I'm
particularly interested in the possibility of using it
on my TR4.

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk165.htm

Thanks!
Chris


------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dogzbody1 at yahoo.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 24 14:49:58 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 13:49:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED Lights, I'm no expert.
In-Reply-To: <D8586B13-032C-4328-8BA2-9D64B0DBEB8C@ties2.net>
References: <D8586B13-032C-4328-8BA2-9D64B0DBEB8C@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <1e0d01cafb82$aca168e0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I'll mail pictures, if interested.

Unfortunately it's practically impossible to compare lights with
photographs; even with both lights in the same photograph, the camera simply
does not 'see' the same as the human eye.

http://tinyurl.com/3ahngjg

Randall

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Mon May 24 14:50:56 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 16:50:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] 299 dollar weber conversion for TR6
In-Reply-To: <87144.88189.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.3.1274724002.10878.triumphs@autox.team.net> 
	<8CCC98FF056D0FE-D68-24F8@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
	<87144.88189.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinLePQX4VmkN-v2j0KcZ454ljZLpSLnuM8ZpG-W@mail.gmail.com>

http://classicmotorsports.net/articles/six-pack/

Great article.  Thanks!

It sounds like these are more or less one half of a DCOE....

Chris

From pj_thomas at comcast.net  Mon May 24 17:36:53 2010
From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 19:36:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] LEDs &  Flasher
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF260D@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <a06240801c820735191a6@[192.168.2.4]>
	<0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF260D@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <4BFB0D95.1050901@comcast.net>

On 5/24/2010 3:15 PM, Foster, Stan (HP IT) wrote:
> Bill, the Lucas design for the flasher relies on small elves that live in a
> metal container under the dash on a TR6. When you operate the flasher the
> elves switch the circuit on and off. They feel the cold terribly however and
> rely on a heated bi-metalic strip in the box to keep warm and this heater is
> dependent on the wattage of the incandescent bulbs.
>
> If you switch to LED's the heater wont work, the elves will move somewhere
> warmer and the LED lamps will not flash. The solution is to use a modern
> electronic flasher that could care less what the wattage is. The purists don't
> like them because the starting sequence is wrong (the elves start with OFF)
> and the cadence is wrong but I think most of us are happy if the flashers just
> flash.
>
> Stan
>    
All wrong.  If the you switch to LED's the elves will get confused, 
panic and flash too fast.  They do the same thing when one of the turn 
signals burns out.

Peter T.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bill
> Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 2:19 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] LEDs&  Flasher
>
> Thanks, from all the replies, I am pretty much sold, one more
> question.  I have heard there is some problem with using the original
> type turn signal flasher, the Litezupp website seems to indicate it
> should be replaced with a NAPA substitute, is this a problem ???
>
> Thanks again
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pj_thomas at comcast.net

From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com  Mon May 24 21:59:59 2010
From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 20:59:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pics from Woodland, CA British Car Show
Message-ID: <SNT138-w172A5601923B54BD0EF79FDDE80@phx.gbl>

Hi All - In case you are curious, I have posted the pictures I took at the
British car show in Woodland, CA yesterday.

They are posted at:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157624123845642/

As always, feel free to look at any other photos or sets.

Enjoy,

David Gunn
1954 TR2 Coupe
TS3388l
Chico, CA

PS  Yes, the red TR2 with the black hard top is mine.  I took 1st in class
last year, so I was in the Winners Circle this year.  I did not place, but
there was a lot of interest in the car and many pictures were taken.  I
obviously am quite proud of how it showed, and I also took a lot of pictures.

DEG

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From carlsereda at aol.com  Tue May 25 02:14:07 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 01:14:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] The Yolo County Fairgrounds in Woodland, California
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1274724002.10878.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CCA0443D.6133.44D8.BEA2.BFC6FB2A8611@aol.com>

Re: The Yolo County Fairgrounds in Woodland, California is the place 
to be on May 23rd for the Annual All British Motorcar Show and Swap 
Meet!

Did anyone on this list make above Brit event?

It is my favorite yearly event and I missed it!?!

Wish it was advertised here a week or two before the date.

It has the best Brit car parts swap meet in N. California.. now I have 
to wait a year!

darn

Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May 25 06:25:21 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 08:25:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] LEDs &  Flasher
Message-ID: <5179.4950134c.392d1bb1@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/24/2010 6:55:55 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pj_thomas at comcast.net writes: 
> On 5/24/2010 3:15 PM, Foster, Stan (HP IT) wrote:
> >Bill, the Lucas design for the flasher relies on small elves that live in 
> a
> >metal container under the dash on a TR6. When you operate the flasher the
> >elves switch the circuit on and off. They feel the cold terribly however 
> and
> >rely on a heated bi-metalic strip in the box to keep warm and this heater 
> is
> >dependent on the wattage of the incandescent bulbs.
> >
> >If you switch to LED's the heater wont work, the elves will move 
> somewhere
> >warmer and the LED lamps will not flash. The solution is to use a modern
> >electronic flasher that could care less what the wattage is. The purists 
> don't
> >like them because the starting sequence is wrong (the elves start with 
> OFF)
> >and the cadence is wrong but I think most of us are happy if the flashers 
> just
> >flash.
> >
> >Stan
> >    
> All wrong.  If the you switch to LED's the elves will get confused, 
> panic and flash too fast.  They do the same thing when one of the turn 
> signals burns out.
> 
> Peter T.
> 


You're both wrong.  Everyone knows that any self-respecting elf wouldn't be 
caught dead in a metal can, even one as prestigious as a Lucas flasher can. 
 Those are trolls in those cans.  As everyone knows trolls are anti-social 
and prefer to hide out in secret places such as these.  What isn't as well 
known is that they are also luddites.  Once they learn you are using LED 
lights they will go on strike.

In actuality the classic flasher, typical of those used in our cars, used a 
series resistance and bimetal spring (as Joe alluded to previously) to open 
and close a set of contacts.  Since this heater is in series with the 
lights it is sensitive to the amount of current drawn by the lights.  It was 
designed to stop flashing if one bulb burns out providing the driver with an 
indication that something is wrong.  LED's will draw a lower current to the 
point that this feature will be invoked.  

The flashers that flash quickly when a bulb burns out is a more recent 
invention (circa late 90's) and therefore not "period" for our cars.

;-)

Dave

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Tue May 25 07:57:32 2010
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 08:57:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] LEDs and Flasher
Message-ID: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C788428DAE57@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>

Bill,

I only use Litezupp as tail & brake lamps.

If you want to replace your turn signals too, they provide the following
directions on their website:
http://litezupp.com/content/flasher-conversion-instructions.

Brian

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue May 25 09:11:04 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 09:11:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] The Yolo County Fairgrounds in Woodland, California
In-Reply-To: <CCA0443D.6133.44D8.BEA2.BFC6FB2A8611@aol.com>
References: <mailman.3.1274724002.10878.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<CCA0443D.6133.44D8.BEA2.BFC6FB2A8611@aol.com>
Message-ID: <A0F0A3D7DB024EAC87FF6C70C1FFADEA@bboffice>

Carl,
David Gunn posted these pictures that he took from the show this year.  I
presume the great looking red TR2, well documented in photos, is his.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157624123845642/


Bill

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of carlsereda
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 2:14 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] The Yolo County Fairgrounds in Woodland, California

Re: The Yolo County Fairgrounds in Woodland, California is the place to be
on May 23rd for the Annual All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet!

Did anyone on this list make above Brit event?

It is my favorite yearly event and I missed it!?!

Wish it was advertised here a week or two before the date.

It has the best Brit car parts swap meet in N. California.. now I have to
wait a year!

darn

Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 25 09:44:49 2010
From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (Rodney Trunnell)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 08:44:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] LEDs and Flasher
In-Reply-To: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C788428DAE57@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
References: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C788428DAE57@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
Message-ID: <102657.14460.qm@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have replaced all of my lamps with the Litezupp LED lights and am very
please with the results.  I did convert to the new flasher from NAPA that is
mentioned in the Litesupp website.  I did have a problem though.  When tuning
on the ignition and testing all worked well.  When the engine was running the
turn signals worked very poorly if at all.  By feeling the flasher when the
engine was running I would detect that the contacts were trying to pickup but
were not fully closing.  I was running non resistor plug wire and non resistor
plugs and found that by replacing my plugs with a resistor type plug it took
care of the interference that was causing the flasher units to not work
properly.

Rod Trunnell
TR3B TCF1037l


________________________________
From:
Brian Jones <Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>; "anabil007 at comcast.net" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, May 25, 2010 6:57:32 AM
Subject: [TR] LEDs and Flasher

Bill,

I
only use Litezupp as tail & brake lamps.

If you want to replace your turn
signals too, they provide the following
directions on their website:
http://litezupp.com/content/flasher-conversion-instructions.

Brian

.net

From lee.k.janssen at lmco.com  Tue May 25 12:40:47 2010
From: lee.k.janssen at lmco.com (Janssen, Lee K)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 12:40:47 -0600
Subject: [TR] Value of TR6 3.71 Differential
Message-ID: <E907CB9E4B37474F98A9375D5BECB26A01D527EF65@HDXMSP7.us.lmco.com>

Any ideas on what a TR6 3.71 ratio differential is worth?
My guess is whatever someone will pay but I thought I would ask for opinions....

Somehow I wound up with 4 and I have a 3.45 installed in the car.

Thanks much
Lee
Denver CO

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 25 14:09:53 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 13:09:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Value of TR6 3.71 Differential
In-Reply-To: <E907CB9E4B37474F98A9375D5BECB26A01D527EF65@HDXMSP7.us.lmco.com>
References: <E907CB9E4B37474F98A9375D5BECB26A01D527EF65@HDXMSP7.us.lmco.com>
Message-ID: <074801cafc46$3dbac100$b9304300$@rr.com>

> Any ideas on what a TR6 3.71 ratio differential is worth?

There have been several of them on EBay for around $350 in the past few
months, but with no takers.  Highest bid I've seen was only $105 (and it
didn't meet the reserve).

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 25 14:55:15 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 13:55:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] LEDs &  Flasher
In-Reply-To: <4BFB0D95.1050901@comcast.net>
References: <a06240801c820735191a6@[192.168.2.4]>
	<0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF260D@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<4BFB0D95.1050901@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <075201cafc4c$9400b9b0$bc022d10$@rr.com>

> If the you switch to LED's the elves will get confused,
> panic and flash too fast.  They do the same thing when one of the turn
> signals burns out.

The LEDs draw much less current than even one incandescent bulb.  In my
limited tests, both the original flasher and the non-LED electronic types
(at least the Tridon EL13 I tested) will fail to flash at all, with only LED
bulbs.

The only flashers that will work in all cases are the ones that take a
separate ground wire (so they can get enough power to operate without having
to pull it through the LEDs).

-- Randall 

From pat.l at comcast.net  Tue May 25 17:44:09 2010
From: pat.l at comcast.net (Pat Ledford)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 19:44:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Fwd: Re:  LEDs &  Flasher]
Message-ID: <4BFC60C9.4060309@comcast.net>

I do not know if the 12 volt bulb works the same as a 6 volt LED, but 
what some have had to do on there  6 volt positive ground systems is to 
wire in one incandescent bulb into the turn signal circuit.  They 
usually hide that one bulb in the trunk or behind the grill.  That one 
bulb creates enough resistance to allow the flasher to work.  I am a 
newbie to Triumphs, so in this case I may be talking through my hat.

D Patrick

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [TR] LEDs &  Flasher
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 13:55:15 -0700
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
CC: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
References: <a06240801c820735191a6@[192.168.2.4]> 
<0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF260D at G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> 
<4BFB0D95.1050901 at comcast.net>

> If the you switch to LED's the elves will get confused,
> panic and flash too fast.  They do the same thing when one of the turn
> signals burns out.

The LEDs draw much less current than even one incandescent bulb.  In my
limited tests, both the original flasher and the non-LED electronic types
(at least the Tridon EL13 I tested) will fail to flash at all, with only LED
bulbs.

The only flashers that will work in all cases are the ones that take a
separate ground wire (so they can get enough power to operate without having
to pull it through the LEDs).

-- Randall

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pat.l at comcast.net

From lee.k.janssen at lmco.com  Wed May 26 13:54:37 2010
From: lee.k.janssen at lmco.com (Janssen, Lee K)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 13:54:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] RMTC
Message-ID: <E907CB9E4B37474F98A9375D5BECB26A01D52F8BB6@HDXMSP7.us.lmco.com>

All:

Since my company blocks "dangerous or subversive" web sites does anyone have contact information for the news letter editor for the Rocky Mountain Triumph Club.

Thanks in advance for this rather odd request.

Thanks
Lee Janssen

From lee.k.janssen at lmco.com  Wed May 26 14:13:41 2010
From: lee.k.janssen at lmco.com (Janssen, Lee K)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 14:13:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] RMTC
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTil5TQh1ztyAA7Jm6ZlVwnWrrz57tUUnrgLxHZ06@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E907CB9E4B37474F98A9375D5BECB26A01D52F8BB6@HDXMSP7.us.lmco.com>
	<AANLkTil5TQh1ztyAA7Jm6ZlVwnWrrz57tUUnrgLxHZ06@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E907CB9E4B37474F98A9375D5BECB26A01D52F8C08@HDXMSP7.us.lmco.com>

Thanks to Brad I already have my answer.
Thanks much
Lee

-----Original Message-----
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com [mailto:bkahler1 at gmail.com] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 2:10 PM
To: Janssen, Lee K
Subject: Re: [TR] RMTC

Rocky Mountain Triumph Club
6821 S. Forest St., Littleton, CO 80122
Email: info at rockymountaintr.org


On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 3:54 PM, Janssen, Lee K <lee.k.janssen at lmco.com>
wrote:
> All:
>
> Since my company blocks "dangerous or subversive" web sites does anyone have
contact information for the news letter editor for the Rocky Mountain Triumph
Club.
>
> Thanks in advance for this rather odd request.
>
> Thanks
> Lee Janssen
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 26 15:20:10 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 17:20:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Len Renkenberger's Hub Manual
Message-ID: <D8DEC1CDFDEC4919A87FF17DED50E39B@BobPC>

A few months ago I announced that Len Renkenberger & Jim Matos asked Paul 
Rego and I if we'd be interested in hosting Len's Six-Tech Manual on our web 
sites.... which we did. At the time there was much discussion about adding 
Len's Hub Manual as rebuilding hubs require some special tools and 
knowledge, plus the hubs are all 35+ years old and maybe shouldn't be 
rebuilt. Len decided that he's rather share the information with everyone so 
the Hub Manual has been added to both sites.

My site - http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/6-tech-Manuals.htm

Paul's Site - http://www.74tr6.com/6-tech.htm

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 26 17:49:36 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 16:49:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Len Renkenberger's Hub Manual
In-Reply-To: <D8DEC1CDFDEC4919A87FF17DED50E39B@BobPC>
References: <D8DEC1CDFDEC4919A87FF17DED50E39B@BobPC>
Message-ID: <099001cafd2e$19b81da0$4d2858e0$@rr.com>

Thanks, Bob, and to Len as well.

A related question: Some years ago, a long-time Stag owner posted a message
on the Stag list about a novel way of separating hubs.  He said an
ex-Triumph dealer showed him this method.  As I recall, his description was
a steel rod about 1.5" in diameter that was drilled and tapped to thread
onto the end of the axle, along with a sacrificial spacer that fit between
the end of the shaft and the shoulder of the axle, inside the opening of the
hub.  He said to just slide the spacer on, then turn the drift down against
it.  Support the flange and whack the drift with a BFH.  He claimed it would
remove hubs that wouldn't come off in a press.

Anyone else ever heard of this?  I've not had occasion to try it yet, but I
certainly plan to when the time comes.

-- Randall 

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Wed May 26 19:21:47 2010
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 18:21:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Len Renkenberger's Hub Manual
References: <D8DEC1CDFDEC4919A87FF17DED50E39B@BobPC>
	<099001cafd2e$19b81da0$4d2858e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <890654DFE8014BA8B56C0A16FEDBEFA2@Dell>

Sort of. The club member who runs the garage where we have our tune n' 
tech's uses a wheel puller, which he said was actually an old Willy's tool. 
If I remember correctly, it had 3 arms which bolted to the hub, a special 
spacer to go over the end, just so there was no pressure on the threads, and 
then he tightened it down with an impact wrench. He held it down with 1 foot 
and gave the pulller a whack with a BFH and the hub flew apart. I took a 
video, but can't seem to find it anywhere.  The theory is that the shock of 
the whack seperates the hub without putting the tons of pressure that a 
press would require.  Sorry I can't remember anymore, getting too old.
Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 4:49 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Len Renkenberger's Hub Manual


> Thanks, Bob, and to Len as well.
>
> A related question: Some years ago, a long-time Stag owner posted a 
> message
> on the Stag list about a novel way of separating hubs.  He said an
> ex-Triumph dealer showed him this method.  As I recall, his description 
> was
> a steel rod about 1.5" in diameter that was drilled and tapped to thread
> onto the end of the axle, along with a sacrificial spacer that fit between
> the end of the shaft and the shoulder of the axle, inside the opening of 
> the
> hub.  He said to just slide the spacer on, then turn the drift down 
> against
> it.  Support the flange and whack the drift with a BFH.  He claimed it 
> would
> remove hubs that wouldn't come off in a press.
>
> Anyone else ever heard of this?  I've not had occasion to try it yet, but 
> I
> certainly plan to when the time comes.
>
> -- Randall

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri May 28 06:31:16 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 08:31:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF seat belts in a wedge
Message-ID: <BAY123-W13EB9FE2203C042490AF3EBAEB0@phx.gbl>

TRF has seat belts on sale. Has anybody installed a set in a TR7 or TR8? How
did they work out for you?



Thanks,

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri May 28 07:29:10 2010
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 09:29:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] TRF seat belts in a wedge
Message-ID: <e5aa.497419a7.39311f26@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/28/2010 8:31:34 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:

TRF has  seat belts on sale. Has anybody installed a set in a TR7 or TR8? 
How
did  they work out for you?
 
Hi Marty
 
I can't tell what belt TRF is selling in the ad - if they are Securon  
belts, the following info might be useful:
 
I have these belts in 2 of our TR8s:
 
_http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RB7355_ 
(http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RB7355) 
 
they are Securon part # 514/15
if the stalk on the TRF belts are longer than these, they are too long for  
use in a TR7/8
if the TRF belts are Securon belts, maybe they'd get Securon belt #   
514/15 for the sale price for you if you ask.
 
I like these belts a lot (obviously this is why i bought a 2nd set) - fit  
and function is good and they work very well with a CG lok   ;-)
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Fri May 28 12:57:47 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 11:57:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
Message-ID: <6D8BB7C4-BF34-4FCB-A066-B524DD41BEDF@roadrunner.com>

My TR3A has what seems  to be a common problem with them in  
California. On a hot days, in busy traffic, it tends to  overheat  
while idling, even with a reconditioned radiator. So far, it has only  
been marginal with the temperature not having been over the mid- 
eighties yet.
What results have you guys had with those "water wetters" that are on  
the market with some impressive claims. Are there any cons? Or is the  
only way to an electric fan(Hayden)?

Hans

From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org  Fri May 28 13:15:48 2010
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 15:15:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
In-Reply-To: <6D8BB7C4-BF34-4FCB-A066-B524DD41BEDF@roadrunner.com>
References: <6D8BB7C4-BF34-4FCB-A066-B524DD41BEDF@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20100528151333.02b00670@donkeykong.whspn.net>

My '76 TR6 has had some cooling issues...  I have tried water alone.  I 
have tried water and anti-freeze/coolant mixed.  I have tried the 50/50 
premix anti-freeze/coolant.  etc.. Nothing works better then Water Wetter 
and good old H20...  I am a beleaver in the stuff!

- Aldwyn


At 02:57 PM 5/28/2010, Hans de Ferrante wrote:
>My TR3A has what seems  to be a common problem with them in
>California. On a hot days, in busy traffic, it tends to  overheat
>while idling, even with a reconditioned radiator. So far, it has only
>been marginal with the temperature not having been over the mid- eighties yet.
>What results have you guys had with those "water wetters" that are on
>the market with some impressive claims. Are there any cons? Or is the
>only way to an electric fan(Hayden)?
>
>Hans
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aldwyn at sylvancircle.org

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Fri May 28 13:17:55 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 12:17:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
In-Reply-To: <6D8BB7C4-BF34-4FCB-A066-B524DD41BEDF@roadrunner.com>
References: <6D8BB7C4-BF34-4FCB-A066-B524DD41BEDF@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <E8C8E521-E8F3-48B8-B06E-140E45946C15@gmail.com>

Hans

I live in Phoenix AZ & regularly drive my 60 TR3A in temps of >110F both on
the highway & on city streets.   I do NOT have a problem with water temps.  I
also have a recored radiator, sans the crank hole, that is about 5-6 years
old.  I also use the largest electric fan I could fit controlled both
thermostatic & a manual switchs. I am running just water & antifreeze.

Several years go in Florida we put "water wetter" in my son's MBG and really
did not see any big difference.

John

On  28 May, 2010, at 11:57 AM, Hans de Ferrante wrote:

> My TR3A has what seems  to be a common problem with them in California. On a
hot days, in busy traffic, it tends to  overheat while idling, even with a
reconditioned radiator. So far, it has only been marginal with the temperature
not having been over the mid-eighties yet.
> What results have you guys had with those "water wetters" that are on the
market with some impressive claims. Are there any cons? Or is the only way to
an electric fan(Hayden)?
>
> Hans

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Fri May 28 13:36:59 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (HANS DEFERRANTE)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 12:36:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
In-Reply-To: <E8C8E521-E8F3-48B8-B06E-140E45946C15@gmail.com>
References: <6D8BB7C4-BF34-4FCB-A066-B524DD41BEDF@roadrunner.com>
	<E8C8E521-E8F3-48B8-B06E-140E45946C15@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2B7C78BC-5430-485B-9F10-C8D90B18BDD5@roadrunner.com>

   Hello John,
Thanks for your input. How big was the fan you used? I had been  
looking at those Hayden fans. Seems the biggest one suitable is 12".  
Did you put the probe in the radiator?
Much obliged,
Hans


On May 28, 2010, at 12:17 PM, John Wise wrote:

> Hans
>
> I live in Phoenix AZ & regularly drive my 60 TR3A in temps of >110F  
> both on the highway & on city streets.   I do NOT have a problem  
> with water temps.  I also have a recored radiator, sans the crank  
> hole, that is about 5-6 years old.  I also use the largest electric  
> fan I could fit controlled both thermostatic & a manual switchs. I  
> am running just water & antifreeze.
>
> Several years go in Florida we put "water wetter" in my son's MBG  
> and really did not see any big difference.
>
> John
>
> On  28 May, 2010, at 11:57 AM, Hans de Ferrante wrote:
>
>> My TR3A has what seems  to be a common problem with them in  
>> California. On a hot days, in busy traffic, it tends to  overheat  
>> while idling, even with a reconditioned radiator. So far, it has  
>> only been marginal with the temperature not having been over the  
>> mid-eighties yet.
>> What results have you guys had with those "water wetters" that are  
>> on the market with some impressive claims. Are there any cons? Or  
>> is the only way to an electric fan(Hayden)?
>>
>> Hans
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri May 28 14:12:13 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 13:12:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
In-Reply-To: <6D8BB7C4-BF34-4FCB-A066-B524DD41BEDF@roadrunner.com>
References: <6D8BB7C4-BF34-4FCB-A066-B524DD41BEDF@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <a06240803c825d1e11dcc@[192.168.2.4]>

I have used Redline Water Wetter ... it does seem to help, however I 
have a complete regime to solve the overheating problem, every year I 
drain, and back flush the entire system. Pretone has a flush system 
that can be attached to the heater hose outlet, and with a garden 
hose doses a good job of back flushing.  I then drain the radiator 
and block as much as  possible.  Raising the top of the radiator 
above the engine head (a Kas Kastner suggestion), I then put in 
Redine water wetter, NoRosion, one gallon of anti-freeze solution, 
fill with de-mineralized water (NOT distilled water).  Start the 
engine to check for leaks and to let all the air bubbles come out, 
they will rise to the top.  Since I have been doing this along with 
and aluminum Ron Davis radiator, Hayden puller fan, narrow belt kit 
(mechanical fan removed), overflow bottle. And MOST important an 
original (replica) long body thermostat ... all is well.


>My TR3A has what seems  to be a common problem with them in 
>California. On a hot days, in busy traffic, it tends to  overheat 
>while idling, even with a reconditioned radiator. So far, it has 
>only been marginal with the temperature not having been over the 
>mid-eighties yet.
>What results have you guys had with those "water wetters" that are 
>on the market with some impressive claims. Are there any cons? Or is 
>the only way to an electric fan(Hayden)?
>
>Hans
>
>_


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri May 28 14:22:56 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 20:22:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
In-Reply-To: <a06240803c825d1e11dcc@[192.168.2.4]>
Message-ID: <899636112.2460271275078176301.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

What's wrong with distilled water?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri May 28 14:30:19 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 20:30:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
In-Reply-To: <972048089.2462151275078415725.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1239010520.2463561275078619508.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Hans de Ferrante" <tr3 at roadrunner.com> wrote:

> My TR3A has what seems  to be a common problem with them in  
> California. On a hot days, in busy traffic, it tends to  overheat  
> while idling, even with a reconditioned radiator. So far, it has only 
> 
> been marginal with the temperature not having been over the mid- 
> eighties yet.
> What results have you guys had with those "water wetters" that are on 
> 
> the market with some impressive claims. Are there any cons? Or is the 
> 
> only way to an electric fan(Hayden)?
> 
> Hans

"TR Man:
It's time to install an electric fan."

- Bob Streepy

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 28 14:39:27 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 13:39:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
In-Reply-To: <6D8BB7C4-BF34-4FCB-A066-B524DD41BEDF@roadrunner.com>
References: <6D8BB7C4-BF34-4FCB-A066-B524DD41BEDF@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <037101cafea5$ddf4d730$99de8590$@rr.com>

I have heard that "Water Wetter" helps in some situations.  But when I was
having chronic overheating problems with my TR3A, it seemed to make no
difference at all.  I also discovered that it did NOT protect against
corrosion : a year after filling with purified (reverse osmosis) water &
Redline Water Wetter, the coolant was brown with rust.

Likely it boils down to why you are having a problem.  Just like the old
analogy of a chain being no stronger than its weakest link, it doesn't
matter how good the cooling system is at getting heat to the radiator, if
there isn't enough airflow to carry it away.

So, I would say you need to concentrate on things that will improve airflow
at idle, like perhaps a fan with more blades or more pitch.  My Dad is
taking an unusual approach and tweaking the stock fan blades to have more
pitch; his theory is that they flatten out with age.  I'm thinking of trying
to add a shroud around the stock fan (mostly because it's something I can do
without pulling the front apron).  Of course, an electric fan works well
too, but it introduces the problem of finding enough power to turn it,
especially at idle with the headlights on where the stock generator doesn't
keep up anyway.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 28 14:41:26 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 13:41:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
In-Reply-To: <899636112.2460271275078176301.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <a06240803c825d1e11dcc@[192.168.2.4]>
	<899636112.2460271275078176301.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <037801cafea6$2506cf70$6f146e50$@rr.com>

> What's wrong with distilled water?

Corrosion, mostly.  But WaterWetter claims to improve even distilled water.

-- Randall 

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Fri May 28 15:03:13 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 14:03:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Looking for Sonoma, Calif.
Message-ID: <12447.9101.qm@web51606.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi list!
 
I'm looking for some one who lives in or VERY CLOSE to Sonoma, CA. to do me a
favor. that is to pick up a fender & ship it out to me. I'll pay you for the
shipping.
 
PLEASE,E-mail me off the list, if you are willing to help me. TIA,


-Cosmo Kramer

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri May 28 15:20:42 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 17:20:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Water_Wetters_-_Any_Good=3F?=
Message-ID: <20100528211929.89EED18767D@autox.team.net>

Water wetters help a little, but an electric fan helps a lot. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "HANS DEFERRANTE" <tr3 at roadrunner.com>
Date: Fri, May 28, 2010 15:36
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>

   Hello John,
Thanks for your input. How big was the fan you used? I had been  
looking at those Hayden fans. Seems the biggest one suitable is 12".  
Did you put the probe in the radiator?
Much obliged,
Hans


On May 28, 2010, at 12:17 PM, John Wise wrote:

> Hans
>
> I live in Phoenix AZ & regularly drive my 60 TR3A in temps of >110F  
> both on the highway & on city streets.   I do NOT have a problem  
> with water temps.  I also have a recored radiator, sans the crank  
> hole, that is about 5-6 years old.  I also use the largest electric  
> fan I could fit controlled both thermostatic & a manual switchs. I  
> am running just water & antifreeze.
>
> Several years go in Florida we put "water wetter" in my son's MBG  
> and really did not see any big difference.
>
> John
>
> On  28 May, 2010, at 11:57 AM, Hans de Ferrante wrote:
>
>> My TR3A has what seems  to be a common problem with them in  
>> California. On a hot days, in busy traffic, it tends to  overheat  
>> while idling, even with a reconditioned radiator. So far, it has  
>> only been marginal with the temperature not having been over the  
>> mid-eighties yet.
>> What results have you guys had with those "water wetters" that are  
>> on the market with some impressive claims. Are there any cons? Or  
>> is the only way to an electric fan(Hayden)?
>>
>> Hans
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Fri May 28 18:20:43 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 17:20:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR10
Message-ID: <168601.870.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     So, today I was passing thru Bakersfield and I look over at a farm
equipment storage yard that has a line of parked cars and there is a complete
TR10 wagon that has been there for a looooooong time. The engine looks like it
was rebuilt recently before parking, judging by the paint. The thing cracks me
up just to look at it. It looks like a marriage ruiner. I got the owners name
and number but haven't called. Anyone else on the list have a TR10? Are parts
available anywhere?

     Bill in Tehachapi

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri May 28 22:55:48 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 04:55:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
In-Reply-To: <037801cafea6$2506cf70$6f146e50$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <820138258.2591501275108948817.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > What's wrong with distilled water?
> 
> Corrosion, mostly.  

50/50 with a good non-phosphate antifreeze?  I don't think so.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sat May 29 00:56:32 2010
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 00:56:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] Bit of a problem unrelated to Triumphs....
Message-ID: <4C00BAA0.3050405@dfn.com>

I have a friend who now lives in central Florida who seems to have a 
helluva problem with his 1995 Pontiac Bonneville.  He's called a few 
times in the last couple of weeks, wanting advice on what to do with the 
car.  He had some coolant leakage into the crankcase, and after his 
local mechanic tried to solve the problem (and couldn't) the owner opted 
to buy a used engine and have his mechanic install it (because the cost 
was only marginally greater than having the heads pulled and shaved, etc.).


The used engine is now installed (it's a 2004 V-6 engine installed in a 
1995 Bonneville SSE), and he's suddenly having a bunch of electrical and 
operational problems.  Can't get the ignition key removed (which might 
be mechanical, or might be the loss of an electrical signal from the 
brake system or the trans insuring the trans is in park); when he turns 
the lights on, and then off, the interior lights stay on.  The check 
engine light is still on all the time (which I think is related to the 
original engine computer and harness being OBD1, or 1.5, and the 
replacement engine being OBD3), and he's kind of freaked about the 
problems.  I can't really diagnose over the phone without knowing how 
the existing harness was mated up to the replacement engine, and without 
schematics. 


Does anyone know of a good independent electrical/engine computer shop 
in the Sebring, FL area that won't gouge him (he's trying to live on 
about $700/mo. in SS, so, he won't be able to avail himself of a 
top-flight shop charging premium rates). Yeah, the obvious answer would 
be to have the original shop doing the engine swap make it right, but, I 
think that shop has screwed things up enough that he doesn't trust it, 
and just wants it right without having to take out another home loan to 
do it. He's trying to get if fixed before he tries to take the car back 
to Michigan for the summer.


Any suggestions, Floridians?


Thanks.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 29 01:35:44 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 00:35:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Water Wetters - Any Good?
In-Reply-To: <820138258.2591501275108948817.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <037801cafea6$2506cf70$6f146e50$@rr.com>
	<820138258.2591501275108948817.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <25d601caff01$8c962220$0301a8c0@randall>

> 50/50 with a good non-phosphate antifreeze?  I don't think so.

Sorry, Phil, thought you were asking about pure water, not a mixture with
something else.  There's nothing wrong with having some water in the mix, I
do it all the time.

Randall

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sat May 29 04:17:45 2010
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 10:17:45 -0000
Subject: [TR] Bit of a problem unrelated to Triumphs....
In-Reply-To: <4C00BAA0.3050405@dfn.com>
References: <4C00BAA0.3050405@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <4C29C882.9020307@frontiernet.net>

Matching the OBDII engine computer to the existing body systems is a 
problem. On swaps like this, they should always use the original engine 
computer if possible. Lighting issues may or not be related to the mismatch.

There is no electrical signal to release the key. He's got a mechanical 
problem, possibly related to the mechanical gearshift linkage. It may 
not have been adjusted correctly after the engine swap.

Changing the engine when all he needed was a head job was a mistake. The 
"marginally greater cost" is now going to become a much greater cost.


George Richardson



Michael Porter wrote:
> I have a friend who now lives in central Florida who seems to have a 
> helluva problem with his 1995 Pontiac Bonneville.  He's called a few 
> times in the last couple of weeks, wanting advice on what to do with 
> the car.  He had some coolant leakage into the crankcase, and after 
> his local mechanic tried to solve the problem (and couldn't) the owner 
> opted to buy a used engine and have his mechanic install it (because 
> the cost was only marginally greater than having the heads pulled and 
> shaved, etc.).
>
>
> The used engine is now installed (it's a 2004 V-6 engine installed in 
> a 1995 Bonneville SSE), and he's suddenly having a bunch of electrical 
> and operational problems.  Can't get the ignition key removed (which 
> might be mechanical, or might be the loss of an electrical signal from 
> the brake system or the trans insuring the trans is in park); when he 
> turns the lights on, and then off, the interior lights stay on.  The 
> check engine light is still on all the time (which I think is related 
> to the original engine computer and harness being OBD1, or 1.5, and 
> the replacement engine being OBD3), and he's kind of freaked about the 
> problems.  I can't really diagnose over the phone without knowing how 
> the existing harness was mated up to the replacement engine, and 
> without schematics.
>
> Does anyone know of a good independent electrical/engine computer shop 
> in the Sebring, FL area that won't gouge him (he's trying to live on 
> about $700/mo. in SS, so, he won't be able to avail himself of a 
> top-flight shop charging premium rates). Yeah, the obvious answer 
> would be to have the original shop doing the engine swap make it 
> right, but, I think that shop has screwed things up enough that he 
> doesn't trust it, and just wants it right without having to take out 
> another home loan to do it. He's trying to get if fixed before he 
> tries to take the car back to Michigan for the summer.
>
>
> Any suggestions, Floridians?
>
>
> Thanks.
>


__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4627 (20091121) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat May 29 07:35:27 2010
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 09:35:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alternator Suggestions
Message-ID: <3067878A575343099FAD5C23DBE31DC9@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
I would like to replace my TR4A IRS generator with a alternator but I have no
idea which one to use. At this point, the tub is off the frame so there is no
wire harness to tie into yet. I just want to finish up the front pulley and
narrow belt installation. What I would like to know is what type of alternator
have you guys used and what is involved it modifying the brackets, etc..
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net.davestr4a

From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com  Sat May 29 08:07:39 2010
From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 07:07:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Speedo cable routing TR6 w/OD
Message-ID: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all

No speedometer reading following replacement of mutiple parts, I may
have routed the speedo cable in such a way that it is binding (?).

I found an
overdrive gearbox for my TR6 and had it rebuilt by a reputable shop (Overdrive
Repair Services).  I coincidentally had my speedometer repaired by a reputable
shop (APT) as it had pretty severe needle bounce with the non-OD box.  I
secured an OD speedo cable and routed it from the angle drive, over the top of
the transmission, up through a grommet in a small brace under the brake
booster and then up and through the firewall.   Is this the correct routing? 
What else could I have done wrong?

Thanks for any help that the list can
provide!
Steve

CC25805

From boggiano at charter.net  Sat May 29 08:26:12 2010
From: boggiano at charter.net (Tom Boggiano)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 10:26:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Speedo with OD
References: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D722C0BB2CE5446CA30D648C6B813C71@CR.LOCAL>

Hi All

I am finishing putting the interior back in after my prolonged engine 
replacement.



One of the items that was not working previously was the speedo.

I can connect the speedo to cable and turn the cable at the transmission 
side of the cable and get the speedo to move, when it is connected to the 
gearbox it will not move. When I disconnect the cable from the speedo the 
cable is not being turned by the gearbox.



Different cables and routing ( keeping it out if the normal path do not 
change anything)



So I think it is in the OD gearbox  where it drives the cable.



How do I verify?

What would I need to do to fix?



Thanks

Tom

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat May 29 08:29:57 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 10:29:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Speedo cable routing TR6 w/OD
In-Reply-To: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <PSUb1e0010HYFJw05SUbwl@charter.net>

At 10:07 AM 5/29/2010, Steve Smith wrote:
>Hi all
>
>No speedometer reading following replacement of mutiple parts,

Can you disconnect the cable from the speedo and feel it as you 
drive?  My first guess is that the cable is not engaging the angle drive...

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat May 29 08:50:42 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 10:50:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Speedo cable routing TR6 w/OD
References: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<PSUb1e0010HYFJw05SUbwl@charter.net>
Message-ID: <8307A53B83CC4232A91BA6AC16961B0D@Edscomputer>

Or the right angle drive is not engaging the transmission's speedo drive.

Ed Woods

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 29 09:18:53 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 08:18:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Speedo with OD
In-Reply-To: <D722C0BB2CE5446CA30D648C6B813C71@CR.LOCAL>
References: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<D722C0BB2CE5446CA30D648C6B813C71@CR.LOCAL>
Message-ID: <261201caff42$400e64d0$0301a8c0@randall>

> How do I verify?

Two things I would do:

1) With the cable disconnected at the speedo but connected at the OD, can
you turn the exposed end?

2) Disconnect the cable at the OD, jack up a wheel, and turn the driveline.
Look to see if the square inside the hole turns with the driveline.

> What would I need to do to fix?

If the square doesn't turn in step 2 above, I would start by removing the
locating bolt, item CS8
http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6bluebook/index.php?page=94
then pry out the bearing and pinion, item CS7.  From there, you should be
able to assess whether replacing the pinion will do, or if the gear teeth on
the annulus are ruined.

If either gear has failed, it would be best to remove the gearbox so you or
a shop can strip and clean the overdrive.  But hopefully it will turn out to
just be the cable not engaging or something similar.  Normally the only way
the gears get damaged is if someone tries to disassemble the OD without
removing the pinion first.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 29 09:21:36 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 08:21:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedo cable routing TR6 w/OD
In-Reply-To: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <261301caff42$a0f844f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> What else could I have done wrong?

You didn't mention who verified that the angle drive was good ... if the
cable or speedo was binding somehow then it will have ruined the angle
drive.

Randall

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Sat May 29 10:21:45 2010
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 16:21:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] Speedo at the gearbox
Message-ID: <BAY150-w53831EA58ADB2E1FA7EA929FEC0@phx.gbl>

Steve and Tom,  Last year my speedo stopped working.  I could not for the life
of me figure out why the speedometer was not working. The speedometer end
worked alone and the overdrive end worked alone,bur when hooked together, no
joy.   After much time and energy I found that that the worm drive in the
angle drive that exits the overdrive was not engaging the drive gear in the
overdrive.  In my case it was due to the overdrive case being from an AH 3000
which in all other respects is the same as the A type O/D.  The cure for me
was to do a little grinding on the angle drive to allow me to position the
worm drive deep enough into the overdrive to securely engage the speedo gear
in the overdrive. Bob'72 TR6


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat May 29 11:43:42 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 13:43:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Speedo with OD
References: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com><D722C0BB2CE5446CA30D648C6B813C71@CR.LOCAL>
	<261201caff42$400e64d0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <E77E0A22DDC84621812213DA5E628A45@Edscomputer>

List,

While we're on the subject of the Smith's right angle drive, does anyone 
know of a shop/business that repairs/rebuilds them?

Ed Woods 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat May 29 15:41:31 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 17:41:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Speedo with OD
References: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<D722C0BB2CE5446CA30D648C6B813C71@CR.LOCAL>
Message-ID: <7F8DF8520A7C4149991059895209C3A0@Edscomputer>

List,

I have found that the dozen right angle drive I have on hand have two 
distinct input "shaft" dimensions: .102 and .119, give or take.

The .102 will not work with the later TR speedo drives, the aluminum ones, 
and only sporatically with the early TR brass speedo drives.

FWIW,

Ed Woods 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat May 29 15:49:19 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 14:49:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedo cable routing TR6 w/OD
In-Reply-To: <261301caff42$a0f844f0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<261301caff42$a0f844f0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikT_DPkDEPFwuaF2-XoTSpF6r_WOQtHoSt-mtVs@mail.gmail.com>

On 5/29/10, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> if the > cable or speedo was binding somehow then it will have ruined the angle
> drive.
>

If this has happened (on a TR6) can one use a longer cable in place of
the angle drive (a sometimes fraglie and expensive part) as done on
TR3s?

Thought it odd that Steve said he got an OD cable... wouldn't having
an angle drive mean that you could use your old short cable (assuming
it was good)?

Geo

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sat May 29 16:40:07 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 17:40:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Undercoating
Message-ID: <D18DF7BC-DAA8-4852-846E-49468866236E@genfiniti.com>

All,

Does anyone have any experience with undercoating materials that could offer
some recommendations and/or things to avoid.
I am looking at the DIY kits and am leaning toward Al's Liner.
I will be applying this to the underside of the body tub, as well as to the
wheel wells.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat May 29 21:22:15 2010
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 23:22:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A rear engine lift point
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPGEAIFJAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Hi List,
I have a new rear engine lift bracket for my TR4A but for the life of me, I
can't figure out how the thing gets mounted! Can someone send me a picture
of this bracket mounted on the engine?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 29 22:44:52 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 21:44:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedo cable routing TR6 w/OD
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikT_DPkDEPFwuaF2-XoTSpF6r_WOQtHoSt-mtVs@mail.gmail.com>
References: <568554.58814.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com><261301caff42$a0f844f0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<AANLkTikT_DPkDEPFwuaF2-XoTSpF6r_WOQtHoSt-mtVs@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <26f901caffb2$d860bb00$0301a8c0@randall>

I'll take a shot at this, since all the TR6 owners appear to be out of town
for Memorial Day.  (Wife wants to work on her schoolwork, so I'm here.)

> If this has happened (on a TR6) can one use a longer cable in place of
> the angle drive (a sometimes fraglie and expensive part) as done on
> TR3s?

I believe to do that, you would have to cut holes in the body and route the
cable through the interior of the car.  You may recall, the TR3 had such
holes provided by the factory, and a rubber boot to cover the cable where it
goes through the cabin.

> Thought it odd that Steve said he got an OD cable... wouldn't having
> an angle drive mean that you could use your old short cable (assuming
> it was good)?

My early TR6 SPC shows the speedo cable being the same for OD and LHS non-OD
cars.  But he said his needle was bouncing before, so perhaps he wanted to
replace the cable just in case it was the problem.

Ed's comment about the angle drive is a good one too.  There are several
sellers that have figured out Volvo ODs & parts are worth more if they pass
them off as being for a TR6; but Volvo used a smaller square on the speedo
cable & angle drive (plus some other differences like speedo drive ratio).

Randall

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat May 29 22:44:51 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 23:44:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A rear engine lift point
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPGEAIFJAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPGEAIFJAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <20100530044402.D7748187872@autox.team.net>

This is a home built replacement for the original bracket, but should 
give you an idea - rear head stud, rear exhaust manifold bolt...

http://www.tonydrews.com/2007-8Rebuild/DSCN0117.JPG

- Tony Drews

At 10:22 PM 5/29/2010, you wrote:
>Hi List,
>I have a new rear engine lift bracket for my TR4A but for the life of me, I
>can't figure out how the thing gets mounted! Can someone send me a picture
>of this bracket mounted on the engine?
>Thanks,
>Dave Connitt
>
>'67 TR4A IRS
>http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun May 30 06:46:03 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 08:46:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 Speedo with OD
Message-ID: <75543.538857fb.3933b80b@aol.com>

Tom,
 
It sounds like the right angle drive gear isn't working.  I just  recently 
replaced one for a friend.....the movable, inner shaft had seized and  
snapped inside the gear housing.....it was very difficult to see without  
removing the gear so, unless you can get the car on a lift, disconnect the cable  
and shine a light on the gear while someone above is running the car in  
gear, that's what you need to do to verify.  If you remove it in your  garage, 
get the car up on jack stands as high as you can because you'll need  some 
room to maneuver your wrenches/sockets!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U



In a message dated 5/29/2010 10:31:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
boggiano at charter.net writes:

Hi  All

I am finishing putting the interior back in after my prolonged  engine 
replacement.



One of the items that was not working  previously was the speedo.

I can connect the speedo to cable and turn  the cable at the transmission 
side of the cable and get the speedo to  move, when it is connected to the 
gearbox it will not move. When I  disconnect the cable from the speedo the 
cable is not being turned by the  gearbox.



Different cables and routing ( keeping it out if the  normal path do not 
change anything)



So I think it is in the  OD gearbox  where it drives the cable.



How do I  verify?

What would I need to do to  fix?



Thanks

Tom

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com

From fwildi at yahoo.com  Sun May 30 13:35:06 2010
From: fwildi at yahoo.com (francois wildi)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 12:35:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TRactor engine: conrods big end tab washers. Needed or not?
Message-ID: <665127.62271.qm@web112714.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hello,
I am about to put my pistons back into my TR3 engine (with new rings).
Our supply chain being VERY bad here, I had to wait 4 weeks to get the
rings... only to discover that the conrod big end TAB WASHERs that I had
ordered are missing.
Now I'm hesitating to ship everything back and order
everything express international from Moss or mounting the conrod bing end
bold without these tab washers. I take it racers must have an idea on this...
Time is of essence. Our MVD want to inspect my car on June 24th, and since
they will analyse the exhaust gas, I better put a few 100 miles on it to run
in the engine. 

BTW, I was very impressed when Moss US sent me to Switzerland
a replacement brake fluid tank free of charge to replace a questionable one I
got from them; even though the original was shipped to Arizona and taken home
in my suitcase.

Frangois
TR3A
Lotus Elan Plus2 (oh yes!)

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 30 14:25:09 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 15:25:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRactor engine: conrods big end tab washers. Needed or not?
In-Reply-To: <665127.62271.qm@web112714.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <665127.62271.qm@web112714.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100530202413.7AD1A187655@autox.team.net>

For racing, we normally throw away the tab washers and use red 
loctite thread locking compound on the bolts instead.  The tab 
washers don't work very well to prevent the bolts from loosening.

- Tony Drews

At 02:35 PM 5/30/2010, francois wildi wrote:
>Hello,
>I am about to put my pistons back into my TR3 engine (with new rings).
>Our supply chain being VERY bad here, I had to wait 4 weeks to get the
>rings... only to discover that the conrod big end TAB WASHERs that I had
>ordered are missing.
>Now I'm hesitating to ship everything back and order
>everything express international from Moss or mounting the conrod bing end
>bold without these tab washers. I take it racers must have an idea on this...
>Time is of essence. Our MVD want to inspect my car on June 24th, and since
>they will analyse the exhaust gas, I better put a few 100 miles on it to run
>in the engine.
>
>BTW, I was very impressed when Moss US sent me to Switzerland
>a replacement brake fluid tank free of charge to replace a questionable one I
>got from them; even though the original was shipped to Arizona and taken home
>in my suitcase.
>
>Frangois
>TR3A
>Lotus Elan Plus2 (oh yes!)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 30 14:25:37 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 13:25:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRactor engine: conrods big end tab washers. Needed or not?
In-Reply-To: <665127.62271.qm@web112714.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <665127.62271.qm@web112714.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <27d601cb0036$440fc7f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I take it racers must have an 
> idea on this...

Triumph actually deleted the con rod lock tabs during TR4 production.  The
tab material is necessarily soft (so the tabs can be bent), and can pound
out causing the rod bolts to lose tension even though they don't turn.  

However, you need to check that the threads in the rod are deep enough
without the tab (or use the bolts from a later TR4/4A, which are slightly
shorter).  One way is to turn the bolt in lightly by hand, without the cap,
and compare the exposed length to the thickness of the cap.

Opinions are mixed as to whether Loctite is a good idea; but I use it.

Randall

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun May 30 15:23:30 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 16:23:30 -0500
Subject: [TR]
	=?utf-8?q?TRactor_engine=3A_conrods_big_end_tab_washers=2E_N?=
	=?utf-8?q?eeded_or_not=3F?=
Message-ID: <20100530212218.9759218766E@autox.team.net>

I blew up a racing engine using loctite. You remove loctite by heating. When the engine gets hot, adios loctite. 
We went back to tabs.
Now you can have truly wonderful rods made, using stronger locating technology and better bolts.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, May 30, 2010 15:25
Subject: [TR] TRactor engine: conrods big end tab washers. Needed or not?
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

> I take it racers must have an 
> idea on this...

Triumph actually deleted the con rod lock tabs during TR4 production.  The
tab material is necessarily soft (so the tabs can be bent), and can pound
out causing the rod bolts to lose tension even though they don't turn.  

However, you need to check that the threads in the rod are deep enough
without the tab (or use the bolts from a later TR4/4A, which are slightly
shorter).  One way is to turn the bolt in lightly by hand, without the cap,
and compare the exposed length to the thickness of the cap.

Opinions are mixed as to whether Loctite is a good idea; but I use it.

Randall

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun May 30 15:53:42 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 14:53:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A rear engine lift point
In-Reply-To: <20100530044402.D7748187872@autox.team.net>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPGEAIFJAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
	<20100530044402.D7748187872@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimV-bTA55O9YX9sVY6tftHeo1s7yjNRks2tGXbd@mail.gmail.com>

Here's mine:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/LiftEyeRear.JPG

As I recall, I fitted it over the head stud, then had to use a hammer
(lightly) to tap the bottom bit home.

Geo

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sun May 30 18:40:03 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 17:40:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A rear engine lift point
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimV-bTA55O9YX9sVY6tftHeo1s7yjNRks2tGXbd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPGEAIFJAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
	<20100530044402.D7748187872@autox.team.net>
	<AANLkTimV-bTA55O9YX9sVY6tftHeo1s7yjNRks2tGXbd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46840.29702.qm@web113312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Geo
it looks like the bottom slot fits onto the exhaust manifold bolt? y/n?
Frank


________________________________
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 30, 2010 2:53:42 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A rear engine lift point

Here's mine:
http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/LiftEyeRear.JPG

As I recall, I
fitted it over the head stud, then had to use a hammer
(lightly) to tap the
bottom bit home.

Geo

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 30 19:24:52 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 20:24:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A rear engine lift point
In-Reply-To: <46840.29702.qm@web113312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPGEAIFJAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
	<20100530044402.D7748187872@autox.team.net>
	<AANLkTimV-bTA55O9YX9sVY6tftHeo1s7yjNRks2tGXbd@mail.gmail.com>
	<46840.29702.qm@web113312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100531012357.F37AC187655@autox.team.net>

Yes.

- Tony

At 07:40 PM 5/30/2010, Frank Fisher wrote:
>Geo
>it looks like the bottom slot fits onto the exhaust manifold bolt? y/n?
>Frank
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
>To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sun, May 30, 2010 2:53:42 PM
>Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A rear engine lift point
>
>Here's mine:
>http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/LiftEyeRear.JPG
>
>As I recall, I
>fitted it over the head stud, then had to use a hammer
>(lightly) to tap the
>bottom bit home.
>
>Geo
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested
>annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums:
>http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun May 30 21:38:03 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 23:38:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] 3-slotted gas flange?
Message-ID: <1F293BA0A58D47969B0940E5FC8A24D3@OwnerPC>

I swapped fuel caps with someone on this list several years ago.  I am
grateful for the 'locking gas cap' that I received, I think it came off a pre
60,000 TR3.  I messed up it's 3-slotted female ring which attaches to the
automobile.  The gas cap grabs and rotates on this 3-slotted ring.

Although it has to be made to work on my late TR3A, I need to reorder this
slotted ring.  I am not quite sure if is the Moss item #13 on p.20 which is a
'escutcheon  (834-900)'?  Can someone please tell me?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey                       60 TR3   72513

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun May 30 21:57:47 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 03:57:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TRactor engine: conrods big end tab washers. Needed or not?
In-Reply-To: <27d601cb0036$440fc7f0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <824025153.2963091275278267750.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> Triumph actually deleted the con rod lock tabs during TR4 production. 
> The
> tab material is necessarily soft (so the tabs can be bent), and can
> pound
> out causing the rod bolts to lose tension even though they don't turn.

This is a known problem with Lotus Europa rear hub nuts.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon May 31 10:15:29 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 12:15:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Undercoating
In-Reply-To: <D18DF7BC-DAA8-4852-846E-49468866236E@genfiniti.com>
References: <D18DF7BC-DAA8-4852-846E-49468866236E@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <391E16F52BD74061B6D9E6728909A76F@CarlPC>

Along these same lines - has anyone used truck bed liner material as an 
interior undercoating to cut down on the noise/vibration/heat?

examples (brush on):
http://www.herculiner.com/product_info.html
http://www.nonslipcoating.com/automotive.htm

As  I was looking at web pages - several listed them as 'undercoating' 
alternatives and a couple even did color matching.

Carl
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(Photos updated 5/18/10)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Guy D. Huggins" <guy at genfiniti.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <RedRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 6:40 PM
Subject: [TR] Undercoating


> All,
>
> Does anyone have any experience with undercoating materials that could 
> offer
> some recommendations and/or things to avoid.
> I am looking at the DIY kits and am leaning toward Al's Liner.
> I will be applying this to the underside of the body tub, as well as to 
> the
> wheel wells.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon May 31 10:35:19 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 12:35:19 EDT
Subject: [TR] Undercoating
Message-ID: <61a70.6a93f8fe.39353f47@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/31/2010 12:18:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes:

Along  these same lines - has anyone used truck bed liner material as an 
interior  undercoating to cut down on the  noise/vibration/heat?



Carl et al;
 
I can't say I've heard of using it for noise/vibration/heat, but my local  
restoration bodyshop loves to use the stuff as rust-prevention undercoating. 
In  fact, our '51 Chevy 3-ton truck is over there at the moment for body 
and paint;  it'll have the truck bed liner stuff sprayed under it to preserve 
it's  condition. I felt this was especially important, as we live on a dirt  
road.
 
Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon May 31 13:39:15 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 15:39:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel tap/shut off valve
In-Reply-To: <391E16F52BD74061B6D9E6728909A76F@CarlPC>
References: <D18DF7BC-DAA8-4852-846E-49468866236E@genfiniti.com>
	<391E16F52BD74061B6D9E6728909A76F@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <CEC1B66A4D5C4676B62B3D42FEC9864B@CarlPC>

Going through the process of getting the fuel lines for the TR3 project.

The line that came off TS81802 did not have the tap.  Is there any advantage 
to having one?  I will be running the stock fuel pump although I have an 
electric sitting on the shelf for a future mod.

The fuel tap is available from the regular suppliers although the line from 
tap to pump is NLA but should be an easy build.

Regarding the fuel pump.  the line I have did not have the connector on that 
end.  Is it the same thread/style as the one on the other end (into the 
tank)?   The same question for fittings for the tap if I go that route?

As usual - thanks in advance.
Carl
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(Photos updated 5/18/10)

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon May 31 13:56:40 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 15:56:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel tap/shut off valve
In-Reply-To: <CEC1B66A4D5C4676B62B3D42FEC9864B@CarlPC>
References: <D18DF7BC-DAA8-4852-846E-49468866236E@genfiniti.com>,
	<391E16F52BD74061B6D9E6728909A76F@CarlPC>,
	<CEC1B66A4D5C4676B62B3D42FEC9864B@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <COL119-W15060A4FF8347CA40F004CA5EE0@phx.gbl>

> The line that came off TS81802 did not have the tap. Is there any advantage
> to having one?



Comes in handy when cleaning the fuel strainer.



John H.

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon May 31 15:34:55 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 17:34:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel tap/shut off valve
Message-ID: <83620.6c0eea5b.3935857f@aol.com>

Or changing the fuel pump, or doing any work on the carbs, etc. I have  
found it frustrating that the previous owner of mine has chosen to by-pass it. 
I  would recommend installing it. It's one of those 'you'll thank me later'  
moments..   

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 31 17:31:27 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 16:31:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel tap/shut off valve
In-Reply-To: <CEC1B66A4D5C4676B62B3D42FEC9864B@CarlPC>
References: <D18DF7BC-DAA8-4852-846E-49468866236E@genfiniti.com><391E16F52BD74061B6D9E6728909A76F@CarlPC>
	<CEC1B66A4D5C4676B62B3D42FEC9864B@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <007901cb0119$64e54bb0$0301a8c0@randall>

> The line that came off TS81802 did not have the tap.  Is 
> there any advantage to having one?

Personally, I rather like the tap and would probably add one even to a car
that originally came without.  However, it's not too hard to get by without
it; just carry a tool to pinch the soft fuel line closed:
http://tinyurl.com/335ox3z

But since it wouldn't be original for your car anyway, might as well find a
more modern, less troublesome tap than the original.

> Regarding the fuel pump.  the line I have did not have the 
> connector on that 
> end.  Is it the same thread/style as the one on the other end 
> (into the tank)?

If the later cars used the same fitting into the tank as earlier ones, then
"yes".  In any case, it is a reasonably common fitting (for that purpose),
so most full-line auto parts stores should have one.  (By "full line", I
mean some place like NAPA or equivalent, not a discount house like Pep Boys
or O'Reillys or AutoZone.)

>   The same question for fittings for the tap if I go 
> that route?

The stock tap used different fittings, with female compression nuts instead
of the male nuts found at the tank & fuel pump.  I don't know if they will
interchange with common plumbing fittings or not.  But if you are buying a
new tap, I believe it should come with the nuts.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon May 31 17:51:47 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 19:51:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] Undercoating
Message-ID: <faff.5d9c58cd.3935a593@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/31/2010 11:17:53 AM Central Daylight Time, 
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> Along these same lines - has anyone used truck bed liner material as an 
> interior undercoating to cut down on the noise/vibration/heat?
> 

Yes, I have but only recently so I can't atest to the longevity of it.  
Also consider paint chip guard.  It comes in both black and clear.

Dave

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon May 31 19:41:21 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 19:41:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Mystery Coolant
Message-ID: <5D0C898036F54C9D96652586DCB5504B@bboffice>

A beautiful Memorial Day here in the Utah mountains, worked hard all day in
the yard so by about 4:00pm I deserved a nice ride in the LBC as a reward.
Anxious to push the odometer over the 1,000 mile mark since the restoration
last year.
 
An odd thing happened, I still don't know where it came from but here is the
scenario:  Drove about 110 miles through some great mountain roads and the
Uinta National Forest and as I was climbing to 9,500ft at around 55MPH I
smelled coolant but the temp gauge had barely moved and not advanced any
further, returning to normal (185) after cresting the hill.  Later on the
highway, again climbing to an 8,000ft summit and trying to keep from being
run over by the weekenders in a hurry to get home I was running closer to
70MPH for about 10-15 miles, uphill all the way and again noticed the smell
and nominal up-tick on the temp gauge.
 
As this was the first hard run for this season and since putting the engine
back in I felt that I was probably just blowing out the over-flow from
having filled the car cold a few months back.  I raised the bonnet expecting
a mess in the engine compartment but EVERYTHING was dry except for a large
15"dia spot of coolant on the underside of the bonnet just above the front
carb.  I checked all the hoses, overflow line, 4-lb radiator cap, water pump
and all over the radiator only to find everything clean and dry.  When I
opened the radiator cap there was still about 1/2" of coolant in the neck so
I think my overfill theory is correct but where in the heck did all that
coolant come from not leaving any trace of a mess.(except on the bonnet)
 
Any suggestions as to where it may have come from?   I am not sure if I have
a problem or not but really want to know before the really hot weather
driving starts in July.  The car performed flawlessly, however I noticed
that the plugs were still pretty black when I got home, so I leaned it out
two flats and I clean the plugs and check it again after the next outing.

 
TIA,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS 30766 L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From chammock at iquest.net  Mon May 31 21:05:28 2010
From: chammock at iquest.net (chammock at iquest.net)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 23:05:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] New wheel  cylinder leaking
Message-ID: <20100531230528.240647uc5f5j2dq8@webmail.iquest.net>

drat it all
TR3 is the car in questin
replaced both rear wheel cylinders

one leaks terribly around the brake line
obviously did not before the replacement

the fitting definitely bottoms out, but the line is not sealed
in fact, it leaks as much installed as teh line will drip on its own,  
so there is not a bit of sealing.  I checked for swarf in the  
cylilnder opening - hard to see, but cleaned it out.  checked to be  
sure line was going in square - seemed to be.

I suppose it could be a mismanufactured cylinder - both seemed to be a  
bit wanky - especially in the slots for the retaining clips - too  
tight and slightly out of square.

but are parts ordered from one of the big 2.

Bummed me out -- Plan to oder new cylinder tomorrow.

Questions:
anyone else had this happen?
amy i missing something stupid here?
is there any source for better quality castings on wheel cylinders?

thanks for any ideas

Perry Hammock
tr3a

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From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon May 31 21:09:21 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 23:09:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] GT6 to Acadia National Park
Message-ID: <4C0441A1.31798.542022@localhost>

We just got back in from a Memorial Day weekend trip in the GT6 to 
Mt. Desert, Maine and Acadia National Park.  330 miles one way, home 
to Hadley Point Campground.  Of course we were camping and the GT6 
was jammed to the roof (almost) with stuff.  We got there too late on 
Friday to do anything except spill out of the car and set up camp.  
On Saturday and Sunday we hiked most of the day then spent the 
evening pigging out at Maine-ly Meat, a barbeque place attached to 
the Atlantic Brewing Company.  Atlantic Brewing makes a superb ale 
called Special Old Bitter, or SOB.  A pint of SOB and a plate of 
pulled pork and potato salad after a day hiking, that's pure heaven.

Some pics:
http://users.rcn.com/jimmuller/Sharon_and_GT6.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/jimmuller/all_packed_up.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/jimmuller/campsite.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/jimmuller/lunch_at_The_Featherbed.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/jimmuller/top_of_Cadillac_Mtn.jpg

We figure we had the coolest car on the island.  The number of people 
asking or commenting about it was remarkable.  Toddlers and kids and 
hard-bitten old-timers asked about it.  Pretty 30-something blondes 
riding shotgun in SUV's gave us (well, gave me actually) dazzling 
smiles and that I-wish-I-was-with-him look.  A park ranger had to 
talk about the A-H 3000 she and her husband used to own.  A nasty 
looking biker on the Maine Turnpike pulled even with us and swivelled 
his head, pointed to the car and gave us a big smile and salute.  
Other campers and the folks who ran the campground wanted to know how 
we got all our stuff in it.  Customers and the head waitress at Maine-
ly Meat had to ask if that "cool little red car" was ours.  A guy 
filling up his 1931 Essex at a gas station in Belfast commented how 
it sure was streamlined.  And of course we got thumbs up from other 
people at the top of Cadillac Mtn, including the guy with the German 
accent who volunteered to take our picture.

Fortunately no state trooper showed any curiosity at all in the red 
buzz bomb.  Traffic heading north on Friday was thick and s-l-o-o-o-w 
but coming home tonight it was light and fast, very fast.  I really 
don't drive the GT6 all that fast.  Big SUVs sure can go fast though.

And the GT6 ran very well, thank you.

It was a great weekend to start the summer.  Be safe, everyone.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com