[TR] oil seal update needed

[wbeech at flash.net]

Rebuilt my engine last year adding the new oil seal conversion kit from
Moss.  Using the instructions that came from the kit the crank was properly
turned to 2.504" (specs say 2.500-2.505).  Unfortunately, the re-builder
neglected to drill the additional relief holes and it leaked like a sieve.
Pulled the motor again this winter and we drilled the correct holes,
re-confirmed the crank diameter, position of the seal and confirmed the
spring to be exactly 8" long.

Made the first drive last week of about 20 miles and noticed two small drops
on the ground under the rear of the block, I have not had time to crawl all
over the engine to assure there are no other leaking points from the
re-build but if this is the total of the leak I will learn to live with it,
as do most LBC owners, and not pull the engine again this winter.  I guess I
was just hoping that after the effort and expense of this new seal project
that at least one avenue of oil loss was closed.

To all, have a great and enjoyable spring-summer-fall of LBC driving as I
assuredly plan to myself.  AND, most importantly of all things, be careful
out there!


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 12:25 AM
To: Gary Nafziger; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] oil seal update needed

Here's an excerpt from Uncle Jack's TR-3/4 engine building tips:
If you are going to install the aftermarket rear seal, have the seal surface
of the crank turned to 2.525  whatever the current instructions may say.
These seals are leaky and they need all the help they can get. The lip
tension is too low.
Therefore, measure the length of the spring and alter it to be exactly 8
long.

Also:
Put a very small amount of RTV along one edge of the seal groove in the
aluminum housing. Also put a very light coat of liquid gasket sealer on the
surfaces against which the seal housing will go.  (This is for the
aftermarket rear seal. TFM)

5.     Install the seal on the crank. Arrange the
seal so the split will be on the upside / top after the engine is right side
up.  (This is for the aftermarket rear seal. TFM)

The full "tips" page is here:
http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm

My custom billet crank came with the crank diameter turned slightly too
small (ARRGGHHH) so I have been trimming a little bit off of one edge of the
seal with a very sharp knife and shortening the spring a bit under 8".  I
got that to work last year - we'll see how that works out with this year's
rebuild...

Tony Drews

At 12:23 PM 3/30/2010, Gary Nafziger wrote:
>I've been reading about rear crank main oil seal fixes on tr-3's for
>some time but the last posts were confusing to me (not difficult) lol.
>I wasn't aware that the specs were wrong for the crank re-grind
>ect.......
>What are the correct fixes/grind for the crank?  Which technical
>articles are the best to follow?
>
>thanks!
>gary n.
>
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