From rawanderer at comcast.net  Mon Mar  1 06:21:17 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 13:21:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr 3 Transmission
In-Reply-To: <4B8B2DFC.5010200@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <958884660.10872871267449677797.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

If you spell check "tranny" it will change it to "tyranny"

BobW

Montgomeryville, PA

1974 TR6


----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 10:01:16 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr 3 Transmission

bielings wrote:
> B the tyranny of my TR 3
Interesting typo ;-)

By circlip remover are you referring to the fairly wimpy ones on the
big bearings? B If so, tools for that can be found at many parts stores,
hardware stores, etc.

If you are talking about that big ol' monster that holds the 2nd gear
cluster in place on the mainshaft, that's different. B Many years ago I
purchased the repro of the Churchill tool for that from TRF, and have
used it quite a few times. B Still, that thing is a pain to remove and
install.

You might consider purchasing an extra circlip, it is possible to fracture
the new one during installation and having a second one handy means the
gearbox won't be sitting on a bench for days waiting for the new one to
arrive.

mjb.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation B $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar  1 07:08:43 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 08:08:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] vtr
Message-ID: <F62F7873AE0E45879E79EA0ED2EF6362@ranteer.local>

I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register.  every email they
send out has your username and password in clear text.

help me out people - this is the most egregious security practice I have ever
seen.  please send them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!!
tell them you will not renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish
habit.

their email is membership at vtr.org

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Mon Mar  1 08:40:02 2010
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 10:40:02 EST
Subject: [TR] vtr
Message-ID: <f001.2469a9bb.38bd39d2@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/1/2010 9:08:53 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

I just  received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register.  every email  
they
send out has your username and password in clear text.

help me  out people - this is the most egregious security practice I have  
ever
seen. 
 
 
 
 
 
help me out here - how is this practice different from the "forgotten  
password" emails one gets from any other institution when one forgets  the 
password and requests one?
Until you answer that - I LIKE having the password that handy for my use  
and don't want the policy changed - Its not like anybody can do me any damage 
 with unauthorized access to the VTR members only website. 
 
 
 
 
 

please  send them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!!
tell them you  will not renew until they cease this incredibly  amateurish
habit.
 
 
 
 
Have you already privately sent such an email to any member of the VTR  
board whose names and addresses appear on the inside cover of every issue of 
TVT  you receive?  and not received a response?
If not, how is your email not far more amateurish than you claim the  
"egregious practice" is?
 
Thanks,
Jack McGahey

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Mar  1 09:03:33 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 11:03:33 EST
Subject: [TR] Tr 3 Transmission
Message-ID: <11478.c8ebc32.38bd3f55@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/1/2010 7:23:25 AM Central Standard Time, 
rawanderer at comcast.net writes: 
> If you spell check "tranny" it will change it to "tyranny"
> 
What a tyrannical spell checker!

Dave

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Mar  1 09:22:35 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 09:22:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr 3 Transmission
In-Reply-To: <958884660.10872871267449677797.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <4B8B2DFC.5010200@bradakis.com>
	<958884660.10872871267449677797.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003010822r2c16c97eqb7c55c0dc61754df@mail.gmail.com>

On 3/1/10, Bob Wanderer <rawanderer at comcast.net> wrote:
> If you spell check "tranny" it will change it to "tyranny"

And if you Google 'British tranny' in search of a replacement
gearbox... you'll meet some interesting blokes.

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Mon Mar  1 12:09:39 2010
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 14:09:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] vtr
In-Reply-To: <F62F7873AE0E45879E79EA0ED2EF6362@ranteer.local>
References: <F62F7873AE0E45879E79EA0ED2EF6362@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <AC4A88C9-C1EC-46C7-BF2C-4E2BF4ED370E@blakedischer.com>

On Mar 1, 2010, at 9:08 AM, oliver wrote:
I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register.  every email they
send out has your username and password in clear text. help me out people -
this is the most egregious security practice I have ever seen.  please send
them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!!  tell them you will not
renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish habit.  their email is
membership at vtr.org




Good afternoon everyone,

As this is a VTR matter that doesn't involve the community as a whole, I have
responded to David privately.  I will leave it to him as to whether he wants
to share my response with the entire list.  VTR members wishing to receive a
copy of my correspondence with David may email me offlist at
bdischer at vtr.org.

Cheers,
Blake J. Discher, President

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Mon Mar  1 12:23:15 2010
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 14:23:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] vtr - Resending for address error
In-Reply-To: <F62F7873AE0E45879E79EA0ED2EF6362@ranteer.local>
References: <F62F7873AE0E45879E79EA0ED2EF6362@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <AFCB7650-4DAD-4687-8ABE-C9C8B2104942@blakedischer.com>

On Mar 1, 2010, at 9:08 AM, oliver wrote:
I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register.  every email they
send out has your username and password in clear text. help me out people -
this is the most egregious security practice I have ever seen.  please send
them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!!  tell them you will not
renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish habit.  their email is
membership at vtr.org




Good afternoon everyone,

As this is a VTR matter that doesn't involve the community as a whole, I have
responded to David privately.  I will leave it to him as to whether he wants
to share my response with the entire list.  VTR members wishing to receive a
copy of my correspondence with David may email me offlist at
bdischer at vtr.org.

Cheers,
Blake J. Discher, President

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Mar  1 13:06:46 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 13:06:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] vtr
In-Reply-To: <F62F7873AE0E45879E79EA0ED2EF6362@ranteer.local>
References: <F62F7873AE0E45879E79EA0ED2EF6362@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4B8C1E56.5020902@bradakis.com>

oliver wrote:
> I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register.  every email they
> send out has your username and password in clear text.
>
> help me out people - this is the most egregious security practice I have ever
> seen.  please send them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!!
> tell them you will not renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish
> habit.
>
>   

What, exactly, do you see as such a threat?  What is the worst case 
scenario of
 someone being able to access the VTR pages as you?

In a few days the monthly Team.Net mailing list reminders will go
out, they include users email address and list passwords in plain text.
As far as I know, there have been no reports of list members having
some malicious interloper switching them from regular mode to
digest or some such.  But hey, I guess it could happen.

mjb.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar  1 13:01:42 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 14:01:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fw: VTR Password Issue
Message-ID: <7B3C2547332F4A4D9CDA09AD361ABAE2@ranteer.local>

I'll just add that I appreciate Blake responding so quickly and positively. 
and of course I plan to renew!

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Blake Discher" <bdischer at vtr.org>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 1:14 PM
To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>; "Vintage Triumph Register"
<membership at vtr.org>; "Mailing list for VTR Board" <VTR-board at vtr.org>
Subject: VTR Password Issue

> On Mar 1, 2010, at 9:08 AM, oliver wrote:
> I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register.  every email
> they send out has your username and password in clear text. help me out
> people - this is the most egregious security practice I have ever seen.
> please send them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!!  tell
> them you will not renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish habit.
> their email is membership at vtr.org
>
>
>
>
> Hello David,
>
> Back in January, I had a much less public email exchange with another
> member who shared your concern about the clear text mailings of passwords.
> His email to me was a result of the password being included in the
> periodic eUpdates that were mailed to members.  After that exchange, I
> discontinued adding it to the eUpdates, effective with the February, 2010
> issue.
>
> You don't mention what correspondence specifically included the password,
> but after reviewing your record in the membership database, I see your
> membership expires 30 days from today, and I concluded it was the request
> for renewal.
>
> David, we're just a small group of dedicated volunteers, and to be honest,
> had I remembered those series of emails to members whose memberships are
> about to expire, I would have certainly edited those templates to also
> remove the password.  I just plain forgot they were out there.  I have
> indeed edited them and snooped around the software further to ascertain
> what other automated mail templates may exist with the password field in
> place.  As far as I know, I got them all.
>
> Thank you for pointing out this issue and thank you for your continued
> support of VTR.  After you renew, I will ask Bill Lynn, VTR's Membership
> Secretary, to extend you membership three months for your trouble.  In the
> future, if you have questions regarding VTR, please address them to me or
> any board member rather than the Auto-X Triumph list.  VTR does not run
> that listserve and I don't check it on a daily basis.  You can also feel
> free to give me a call as well, my number is in my signature block.
>
> Best regards,
> Blake
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Blake J. Discher, President
> Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org |  P 313.259.4460 | F 313.447.4100= 

From VTRmbrshp at aol.com  Mon Mar  1 13:32:53 2010
From: VTRmbrshp at aol.com (VTRmbrshp at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 15:32:53 EST
Subject: [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination
Message-ID: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com>

I am going to take the "high road" here and suggest that you really should
check out your facts before you send out e-mails like this and stir up all
kinds  of unnecessary controversy! It is particularly insulting to those of
us who  voluntarily spend more than 30 hours per week on VTR related
matters, to have  our efforts referred to as "the most egregious security
practice
I have ever  seen" and "incredibly amateurish habitb.

This is probably all a moot point since we will likely be discontinuing
the practice of including your password on any VTR correspondence, however
convenient others may find this to be.


First of all, let me assure everyone that "every" e-mail that is sent  out
from VTR does not include your username and password.

Interestingly enough, I, as VTR Membership Secretary, do not even know or
have access to what everyone's password is. It is a totally blank field in
our  administrative database. I can insert a new password, but I never know
what the  prior password was.

I am sure our President will be responding but let me remind you of
(apologies in advance to Information Technology Officers) a few things about
passwords in general. You presumably have a safe, secure, password for your
e-mail account and only you can view your e-mail. Therefore, any e-mail we
send
 you with your VTR password would presumably be read only by you. Because
many  e-mail users on any system forget or otherwise lose their passwords,
virtually  every system allows you to request your password. With most systems
I am  familiar with, the recovered password is sent to your e-mail address
after the  system first verifies your request, and matches the e-mail
address on file  associated with the username you attempted to log in under.

Anyway, suppose someone with ill-intent does acquire your VTR  password.
Since we house no financial information in your profile (like credit  card,
PayPal, or bank account information) there is little that could be done to
your profile, other than nuisance name changes, etc. I submit to you that your
 exposure is not much greater than your listing in a local telephone
directory or other public information sources readily available on the
Internet.

Not withstanding the foregoing, my recommendations will be to remove the
passwords from all VTR correspondence, with the exception of specific
requests for recovery.

Regards,
Bill Lynn
VTR Membership Secretary
e-mail: _triumphtr2 at aol.com
_ (mailto:triumphtr2 at aol.com)

In a message dated 3/1/2010 8:08:53 A.M. Central Standard Time,
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:


I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph  Register.  every email
they send out has your username and password in  clear text.

help me out people - this is the most egregious  security practice I have
ever seen.  please send them an email and tell  them to stop this
practice!!!!!  tell them you will not renew until they  cease this incredibly
amateurish habit.

their email is _membership at vtr.org_ (mailto:membership at vtr.org)

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Mar  1 14:09:04 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 13:09:04 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] vtr passwords and their dissemination
In-Reply-To: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com>
References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com>
Message-ID: <a06240800c7b1dd21f1d4@[192.168.2.2]>

HEAR, HEAR, AT LAST A SENSIBLE REPLY TO A RIDICULOUS COMPLAINT ...


>I am going to take the "high road" here and suggest that you really should
>check out your facts before you send out e-mails like this and stir up all
>kinds  of unnecessary controversy! It is particularly insulting to those of
>us who  voluntarily spend more than 30 hours per week on VTR related
>matters, to have  our efforts referred to as "the most egregious security
>practice
>I have ever  seen" and "incredibly amateurish habitb.
>
>This is probably all a moot point since we will likely be discontinuing
>the practice of including your password on any VTR correspondence, however
>convenient others may find this to be.
>
>
>First of all, let me assure everyone that "every" e-mail that is sent  out
>from VTR does not include your username and password.
>
>Interestingly enough, I, as VTR Membership Secretary, do not even know or
>have access to what everyone's password is. It is a totally blank field in
>our  administrative database. I can insert a new password, but I never know
>what the  prior password was.
>
>I am sure our President will be responding but let me remind you of
>(apologies in advance to Information Technology Officers) a few things about
>passwords in general. You presumably have a safe, secure, password for your
>e-mail account and only you can view your e-mail. Therefore, any e-mail we
>send
>  you with your VTR password would presumably be read only by you. Because
>many  e-mail users on any system forget or otherwise lose their passwords,
>virtually  every system allows you to request your password. With most systems
>I am  familiar with, the recovered password is sent to your e-mail address
>after the  system first verifies your request, and matches the e-mail
>address on file  associated with the username you attempted to log in under.
>
>Anyway, suppose someone with ill-intent does acquire your VTR  password.
>Since we house no financial information in your profile (like credit  card,
>PayPal, or bank account information) there is little that could be done to
>your profile, other than nuisance name changes, etc. I submit to you that your
>  exposure is not much greater than your listing in a local telephone
>directory or other public information sources readily available on the
>Internet.
>
>Not withstanding the foregoing, my recommendations will be to remove the
>passwords from all VTR correspondence, with the exception of specific
>requests for recovery.
>
>Regards,
>Bill Lynn
>VTR Membership Secretary
>e-mail: _triumphtr2 at aol.com
>_ (mailto:triumphtr2 at aol.com)
>
>In a message dated 3/1/2010 8:08:53 A.M. Central Standard Time,
>sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
>
>I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph  Register.  every email
>they send out has your username and password in  clear text.
>
>help me out people - this is the most egregious  security practice I have
>ever seen.  please send them an email and tell  them to stop this
>practice!!!!!  tell them you will not renew until they  cease this incredibly
>amateurish habit.
>
>their email is _membership at vtr.org_ (mailto:membership at vtr.org)
>_______________________________________________
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/anabil007 at comcast.net


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Mar  1 14:35:02 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 16:35:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination
In-Reply-To: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com>
References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W33231720DB6C80D0AAAB9BBA3C0@phx.gbl>

 Bill and board.  FWIW  I for one understand all the efforts that you folks
put out behind the scenes and truly appreciate it.



Thanks for maintaining a place for us to play, this includes you MJB.

Marty Sukey

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Mar  1 14:38:44 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 13:38:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W33231720DB6C80D0AAAB9BBA3C0@phx.gbl>
References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com>
	<BAY123-W33231720DB6C80D0AAAB9BBA3C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <239959.78199.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

what he said
Frank




________________________________
From: marty sukey
<trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: vtrmbrshp at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6 Digest
<6pack at autox.team.net>; membership at vtr.org
Cc: Blake J. Discher
<bdischer at blakedischer.com>
Sent: Mon, March 1, 2010 1:35:02 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination

Bill and board.  FWIW  I for one
understand all the efforts that you folks
put out behind the scenes and truly
appreciate it.



Thanks for maintaining a place for us to play, this includes
you MJB.

Marty Sukey
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail:
Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Mar  1 14:40:16 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 16:40:16 EST
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
Message-ID: <2ba67.71403fa6.38bd8e40@aol.com>

Here I am complicating things again, but.....
 
I think we could even have our very own Youtube channel. Doesn't need to be 
 video footage, although that would be nice, as many Youtube submissions 
are  nothing but a series of still shots. Anyway, just me throwing a spanner 
in the  works again, as I am apt to do.
 
Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Mar  1 15:11:14 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 15:11:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W33231720DB6C80D0AAAB9BBA3C0@phx.gbl>
References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com>
	<BAY123-W33231720DB6C80D0AAAB9BBA3C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B8C3B82.5080006@bradakis.com>

marty sukey wrote:
>  Bill and board.  FWIW  I for one understand all the efforts that you folks
> put out behind the scenes and truly appreciate it.
>
>
>
> Thanks for maintaining a place for us to play, this includes you MJB.
>
>   

Thanks.  I can certainly appreciate the behind the scenes efforts that 
go into
keeping VTR a useful club for Triumph enthusiasts.  Sometimes I think it 
would
be interesting to know just how many hours over the last 20+ years I've 
spent
on keeping Team.Net going.  Then again, I really don't want to know!

I did get a nice donation the other day via Paypal for $21.38 - not the 
$11.47,
suggested, he must not drive a Spitfire.  Support like that helps keep 
me going.
I imagine that a convention full of happy TR folks is quite a reward for 
those
who make it all happen.  Of course in the early years of trying to set up
consistent autocross rules and classing, the Autocross Advisory Board 
had our
share of less than happy people.

Reminds me of a story from years ago when I was very actively autocrossing.
I think it was a divisional or a Pro Solo out at Wendover.  After the 
event a
number of folks were hanging around with a cold beverage and talking about
stuff.  A person from one region commented something like "We have over
a hundred people in our region, and it is always the same half dozen 
that get
things done."  Someone from a much bigger region replied that they had
nearly 1,000 members in their region, but it was always the same half dozen
folks who made sure things got done.

Some things never change, it seems.

mjb.

From trglory at verizon.net  Mon Mar  1 15:18:44 2010
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 17:18:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  vtr passwords and their dissemination
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W33231720DB6C80D0AAAB9BBA3C0@phx.gbl>
References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com>
	<BAY123-W33231720DB6C80D0AAAB9BBA3C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <007401cab98d$2855a830$7900f890$@net>

VTR Board;

I really wish you wouldn't change anything. I have a memory like a steel
sieve and I appreciate your egregious efforts to make sure I remember my
UserID and Password. I just wanted to add another voice to Marty's comments.
Thanks for all you do.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 4:35 PM
To: vtrmbrshp at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6 Digest; membership at vtr.org
Cc: Blake J. Discher
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination

 Bill and board.  FWIW  I for one understand all the efforts that you folks
put out behind the scenes and truly appreciate it.



Thanks for maintaining a place for us to play, this includes you MJB.

Marty Sukey

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar  1 15:32:20 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 14:32:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W33231720DB6C80D0AAAB9BBA3C0@phx.gbl>
References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com>
	<BAY123-W33231720DB6C80D0AAAB9BBA3C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D30A388F5D8443FABACFA95818CC8D3F@jdnet.deere.com>

>  Bill and board.  FWIW  I for one understand all the efforts 
> that you folks put out behind the scenes and truly appreciate it.
> 
> Thanks for maintaining a place for us to play, this includes you MJB.

Amen!

Plus I see nothing wrong with being sent my forum/list password in plain
text.  As someone already pointed out, there is no financial or otherwise
sensitive information being protected. 

Is the Team.Net VTR list no more, then?  It seems like, if there were
something needing public discussion, that would be the place for it.

-- Randall  

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Mar  1 15:59:52 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 15:59:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination
In-Reply-To: <D30A388F5D8443FABACFA95818CC8D3F@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com>
	<BAY123-W33231720DB6C80D0AAAB9BBA3C0@phx.gbl>
	<D30A388F5D8443FABACFA95818CC8D3F@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <4B8C46E8.5020709@bradakis.com>

> Is the Team.Net VTR list no more, then?  It seems like, if there were
> something needing public discussion, that would be the place for it.
>
> -- Randall  
>   

Yes, it does still exist, I never did remove it.

mjb.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Mar  1 16:45:37 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 18:45:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Welcome to "Team.Net Forums"
In-Reply-To: <d88b34bef78cfe9aa469a0c647f803bf@www.team.net>
References: <d88b34bef78cfe9aa469a0c647f803bf@www.team.net>
Message-ID: <201003011845.37351.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Well, 

I went and registered for the Team.Net Forums as suggested by Mark so photos 
could be posted etc. and I was amazed how similar this forum is to the 6-pack 
forum. 

Very similar look-and-feel.

I would suggest all users of this email list to join. It is simple and easy 
and if you wish, you can create an avatar of yourself. My avatar is my TR3 and 
TR4 posing for insurance photos.

When the 6 is complete I will add it to the mix.

There is a current thread where members are posting photos of themselves and 
their cars etc. You can view it at the link that Mark left: 
http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27

I would also like to add that if anyone on this list wants to post a photo or 
request a photo of a part, assembly etc that they use this forum, I know I 
will.

Thanks Mark.

Bob

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Mar  1 17:06:00 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 19:06:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Welcome to "Team.Net Forums"
In-Reply-To: <201003011845.37351.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <d88b34bef78cfe9aa469a0c647f803bf@www.team.net>
Message-ID: <4B8C1018.21695.145F049D@localhost>

On 1 Mar 2010 at 18:45, Bob wrote:

> you can create an avatar of yourself. My avatar is

Do I need to get a pair of those funny glasses?

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com, 42022'44"N 71013'2"W
"younger nor I am, and more soople, sir, oh, far more
soople."

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Mar  1 17:25:06 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 17:25:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Welcome to "Team.Net Forums"
In-Reply-To: <201003011845.37351.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <d88b34bef78cfe9aa469a0c647f803bf@www.team.net>
	<201003011845.37351.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4B8C5AE2.4030200@bradakis.com>

Bob wrote:
> Well, 
>
> I went and registered for the Team.Net Forums as suggested by Mark so photos 
> could be posted etc. and I was amazed how similar this forum is to the 6-pack 
> forum. 
>
>
>   

I wouldn't be surprised if 6pack is using the same software.  It is 
free, easy to
set up and fairly popular, so there is ongoing development.

What I imagine is that many of those who want image capability are looking
more for some sort of gallery software.  Something that allows them to
group related photos together, annotate and such.  Something more than
a forum, more like

http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-galleries.php


The anniversary of Team.Net is coming up April 11th, the domain was
first registered in 1991.  You'd think by now I'd have all the software
you needed in place!  But as part of the anniversary I may be asking for
opnions on various things, what works and what doesn't, etc.  And part of
that will probably also be an "official" spring fund drive, with an eye
towards getting lots of new software updated, hardware speed ups and
such.  We shall see.


mjb.

From jmitch at snet.net  Mon Mar  1 19:52:02 2010
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 21:52:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  vtr passwords and their dissemination
In-Reply-To: <007401cab98d$2855a830$7900f890$@net>
References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com>
	<BAY123-W33231720DB6C80D0AAAB9BBA3C0@phx.gbl>
	<007401cab98d$2855a830$7900f890$@net>
Message-ID: <4B8C7D52.4000905@snet.net>

I second that, It's all good the way it is.  John Mitchell

Joe Laurito wrote:
> VTR Board;
>
> I really wish you wouldn't change anything. I have a memory like a steel
> sieve and I appreciate your egregious efforts to make sure I remember my
> UserID and Password. I just wanted to add another voice to Marty's comments.
> Thanks for all you do.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of marty sukey
> Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 4:35 PM
> To: vtrmbrshp at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6 Digest; membership at vtr.org
> Cc: Blake J. Discher
> Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination
>
>  Bill and board.  FWIW  I for one understand all the efforts that you folks
> put out behind the scenes and truly appreciate it.
>
>
>
> Thanks for maintaining a place for us to play, this includes you MJB.
>
> Marty Sukey
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Mar  1 22:34:10 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 21:34:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Some/ very little LBC - What Music is This?
Message-ID: <248488.93840.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I've enjoyed these youtube videos and would like to know what the music
is in any of these. The first one is TR3. The others are gliding.     If you
recognize them please let me know.    
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X5CIBK1kZg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZGdno2PSHQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27QHQVCtWts

    
 TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Mon Mar  1 22:48:00 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2010 00:48:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Some/ very little LBC - What Music is This?
In-Reply-To: <248488.93840.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <248488.93840.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CC87E30D109729-5AD0-27@webmail-m065.sysops.aol.com>

The answer was in the comments of all three videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X5CIBK1kZg
Coldplayo;? - Square One is the song.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZGdno2PSHQ
Have A Nice Day / Stereophonicso;?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27QHQVCtWts
if you wanto;? the song, look up underman instrumental and you'll
find it :D




-----Original Message-----
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Mar 2, 2010 12:34 am
Subject: [TR] Some/ very little LBC - What Music is This?


     I've enjoyed these youtube videos and would like to know what the music
is in any of these. The first one is TR3. The others are gliding.     If you
recognize them please let me know.


 TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Mar  2 04:44:40 2010
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 03:44:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination
Message-ID: <408108.51614.qm@web80802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

On a similar but different note, it would be a major help to me (as VTR
mailman),
Bill Lynn and Bill Smith if, when you renew your VTR membership via
mail, you
include your membership number on your check and your name, address
and
membership number in the envelope. When the I only receive a check, it
adds to
my work and time (and Bill Lynn's reading interpretation of my chicken
scratches).
Including your invoice would be even easier.

VTR mail goes to the
PO Box, (655) in Howell, Michigan. I pick it up and distribute
it to the
necessary parties. Bill Lynn gets the paperwork and Bill Smith the checks.
If
there is no other paperwork included, I have to record the information from
the
check and send it to Bill L. So, if your address gets changed without your
requesting
it, that is why.

Thanks for listening to my rant.

Doug Mitchell

From tbe749 at aol.com  Tue Mar  2 05:28:22 2010
From: tbe749 at aol.com (tbe749 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2010 07:28:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] GT6 Carpet Set
In-Reply-To: <8efb5.27f52572.38bc7db3@aol.com>
References: <8efb5.27f52572.38bc7db3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CC881AFB938461-21E8-3137@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com>

Sam

It does not surprise me that you are having difficulties with your GT's carpet
fitting. I had similar issues when I was fitting new carpets to my MKIII. I
don't believe they were to the extreme of your problems. Mine is not wool. The
piece in the very back against the rear valance is not carpet but a piece of
board that fits over the rear compartment area. My tunnel and foot well carpet
fit poorly also.

I will most likely fit a molded carpet kit someday when I don't have anything
to do and I will most likely buy from Canley Classics or Newton Commercial in
the UK.

Tom Beaver
73 MKIII GT6....







-----Original Message-----
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: tr6 at atlasok.com
Sent: Sun, Feb 28, 2010 9:17 pm
Subject: [TR] GT6 Carpet Set


My wife, Carol, and I have recently purchased a 1972 GT6 and are in the
rocess of sprucing it up.  We ordered a carpet set (Wilton Wool) from a
ajor supplier and the fit is disappointing. There is a structural member
etween the rear fender wells (inside of the car) that there was no carpet
upplied to recover, there was no carpet supplied to cover the space in the
ery
ack of the rear deck along the rear valance, the passenger floor  carpet
s about 4" too long, and the carpet that goes behind the  tunnel carpet,
hat is one piece originally, is three separate pieces.  It  just doesn't
oesn't fit and lay well.  Has any one else had this  problem?  I'm thinking
hat
s would have been better to have a  local shop make the carpet set and
nstall it.  Has anyone else had this  experience?  BTW, if you have never
rdered Wilton wool it  is EXPENSIVE and they won't sell it to you.  It has to
ome from a  shop.

am and Carol Clark
reen Country Triumphs
_______________________________________________
riumphs at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $11.47
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tbe749 at aol.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Mar  2 06:25:11 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 08:25:11 EST
Subject: [TR] Welcome to "Team.Net Forums"
Message-ID: <4e65a.1262e828.38be6bb7@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/1/2010 6:07:02 PM Central Standard Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> >you can create an avatar of yourself. My avatar is
> 
> Do I need to get a pair of those funny glasses?
> 

God bless the straight line.

Response #1: I thought you already had a pair of funny glasses.

Response #2: You look good with them.

Response #3: What would your car look like in 3D?

Response #4: What would WE look like in 3D? (That's a scary thought)

Dave

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Tue Mar  2 12:43:43 2010
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 11:43:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] Welcome to "Team.Net Forums
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F10B6257C@kb1.mossmotors.com>

WOW!  I actually managed to get a picture up.  Even managed to resize it
for the limits.  Not hard just followed common sense.  We should be
using this a lot to post pix of stuff and our cars.
Mark - you are a genius!!!

Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Mar  2 12:48:28 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2010 14:48:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Welcome to "Team.Net Forums"
In-Reply-To: <4e65a.1262e828.38be6bb7@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4B8D253C.11636.AB40E1@localhost>

On 2 Mar 2010 at 8:25, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> God bless the straight line.

So what's your point, Dave?  A point being the shortest distance 
beteen two straight lines, or something.

A GT6+ has no straight lines, you know.  So I have to make a few 
myself if they seem necessary.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Mar  2 13:45:59 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 15:45:59 EST
Subject: [TR] Welcome to "Team.Net Forums"
Message-ID: <7124e.339ae0e4.38bed307@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/2/2010 1:53:21 PM Central Standard Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> So what's your point, Dave?  A point being the shortest distance 
> beteen two straight lines, or something.
> 

I have a point but if I wear a hat...

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Mar  2 18:41:18 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2010 20:41:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Need help identifying a bracket
Message-ID: <3C4630D912E94BB19189B3136BE33301@CarlPC>

for my TR3 project.

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/id9.html

Any ideas what this is?  where it goes?

By the way - the engine/tranny is almost complete and ready to drop onto the
chassis - probably this weekend.

Thanks
Carl
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(I need to update my pictures; 11/27/09

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Tue Mar  2 19:16:49 2010
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2010 19:16:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs in Anaheim for a beer?
Message-ID: <4B8DC691.8050500@triumphstagclub.org>

Hi All,
I'll be in Anaheim (Garden Grove Embassy Suites) 7 March afternoon 
through 11 March  afternoon for a seminar - sans car.  Anyone on the 
list who might be in the area wanting to have a cold beverage and 
conversation, send me an email off list.

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Tue Mar  2 22:24:39 2010
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 05:24:39 -0000
Subject: [TR] Need help identifying a bracket
In-Reply-To: <3C4630D912E94BB19189B3136BE33301@CarlPC>
References: <3C4630D912E94BB19189B3136BE33301@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <9D1E8E748B14485392464B7B7BF763E5@AdrianPC>

I would suggest they are spot lamp brackets.

Adrian TR4A
Wales UK.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 1:41 AM
Subject: [TR] Need help identifying a bracket


> for my TR3 project.
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/id9.html
>
> Any ideas what this is?  where it goes?
>
> By the way - the engine/tranny is almost complete and ready to drop onto 
> the
> chassis - probably this weekend.
>
> Thanks
> Carl
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---
> Carl - Tampa
> 1961 TR3A TS81802LO
> Body Off Restoration
> Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
> (I need to update my pictures; 11/27/09
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2718 - Release Date: 03/02/10 
07:34:00

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Mar  3 16:49:30 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 23:49:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <8F.FA.13925.C34FA8B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <809772254.393441267660170255.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

> On Sunday 28 February 2010 03:52:08 pm Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> > > put a face with the name & car.
> >
> > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27

Oh Randall!B  And who said that engineers weren't nearly as handsome as New
Hampshire Triumph Owners!!!!!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667

New Hampshire

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Mar  3 17:26:53 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 19:26:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Blatant Self Promotion TR4A Dash
Message-ID: <BAY123-W4756F990CC128203358D63BA390@phx.gbl>

If anybody could use a TR4A dash complete with full set of gauges I have one
on eBay that is in really good shape. I don't know if it is the same as a TR4.
Item #110501090759.  Email me with any question and I will try and answer
them.

Thanks
Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Mar  3 18:50:02 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2010 18:50:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Forum note
Message-ID: <4B8F11CA.1080202@bradakis.com>

On the Team.Net forums there is a way to set your preferences so that when
someone posts a response to a thread you flagged get an email about it.
This does not seem to be working, I'll look into it.

mjb.

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Mar  3 22:04:06 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 22:04:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <809772254.393441267660170255.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <8F.FA.13925.C34FA8B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<809772254.393441267660170255.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <362632D7038C4673AF2509D038200B72@bboffice>

OK, I'm in!  Now, quit yer laughing...

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 4:50 PM
To: Randall
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR- members cars

> On Sunday 28 February 2010 03:52:08 pm Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> > > put a face with the name & car.
> >
> > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27

Oh Randall!B  And who said that engineers weren't nearly as handsome as New
Hampshire Triumph Owners!!!!!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667

New Hampshire

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Thu Mar  4 03:15:40 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 02:15:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Welcome to "Team.Net Forums"
Message-ID: <266424.32217.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 17:25:06 -0700...

Bob wrote:
> ... > I went and registered for the Team.Net Forums as suggested by Mark...
 
What I imagine is that many of those who want image capability are looking
...
http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-galleries.php
... mjb.
-----------------------------
Hi List!
Yes, I  just signed up for <Team net>, but I'm having a hard time of trying to
understand how to post an 'Avatar?'.
I did have Frank F. reply (Thanks Frank) with some explication, but I was
having security problems at that time after I went to sign up.
 
NOTE: I'm NOT saying that the problems came from that forum. So I had to take
care of that, FIRST!  This is why I'm replying so late to this specific
thread.
 
I did go to this other forum to see what that was like. Well, I thought that
<Team Net> was complicated, BUT this one really baffles me. So all I'm saying
is: If you have a hard time understanding computors, then you may need help
when sighing up on these different forums. 

-Cosmo Kramer

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Mar  4 10:23:31 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 09:23:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <362632D7038C4673AF2509D038200B72@bboffice>
References: <8F.FA.13925.C34FA8B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<809772254.393441267660170255.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<362632D7038C4673AF2509D038200B72@bboffice>
Message-ID: <43956.30775.qm@web113312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

all i can say is
"nice wheels"
Frank


________________________________
From: "wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net>
To: terryrs at comcast.net; Randall
<tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, March 3, 2010
9:04:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR- members cars

OK, I'm in!  Now, quit yer
laughing...

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From:
triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 4:50 PM
To:
Randall
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR- members cars

> On
Sunday 28 February 2010 03:52:08 pm Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> > > put a face
with the name & car.
> >
> > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27
Oh Randall!B  And who said that engineers weren't nearly as handsome as New
Hampshire Triumph Owners!!!!!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667

New Hampshire
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Mar  5 11:30:07 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 11:30:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Hose (also TR4 I suppose)
Message-ID: <3b0049461003051030o3e8ffde6pc55acf7753f74a01@mail.gmail.com>

Looking at a couple of eBay items... both described as being for a TR3
but they do not appear to be the same:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Clutch%20Hose%20!BljDy,w!Wk~$(KGrHqUOKikEtlz8HCrnBLcGng72M!~~_12.jpg

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Clutch%20Hose%205b70_1.jpg

I'm thinking the first one looks more like what I'd expect.  Do not
have the old hose off to compare as the car is still driveable.

Any help appreciated, thanks.

Geo

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Mar  5 12:02:53 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 11:02:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Hose (also TR4 I suppose)
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003051030o3e8ffde6pc55acf7753f74a01@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3b0049461003051030o3e8ffde6pc55acf7753f74a01@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a06240802c7b704f18523@[192.168.2.2]>

George, I would suggest you go for the stainless upgrade instead ... 
solved a lot of problems for me.  However the cybertrails item most 
resembles the parts picture ...

>Looking at a couple of eBay items... both described as being for a TR3
>but they do not appear to be the same:
>
>http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Clutch%20Hose%20!BljDy,w!Wk~$(KGrHqUOKikEtlz8HCrnBLcGng72M!~~_12.jpg
>
>http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Clutch%20Hose%205b70_1.jpg
>
>I'm thinking the first one looks more like what I'd expect.  Do not
>have the old hose off to compare as the car is still driveable.
>
>Any help appreciated, thanks.
>
>Geo


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar  5 12:07:59 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 11:07:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Hose (also TR4 I suppose)
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003051030o3e8ffde6pc55acf7753f74a01@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3b0049461003051030o3e8ffde6pc55acf7753f74a01@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A1041C2DA265400985402AA500104B75@jdnet.deere.com>

The first one looks right to me, for later cars with Girling hydraulics
(front disc brakes).

Not certain, but the second hose might be correct for early TR3 with
Lockheed hydraulics (front drums).

BTW, the Girling hose is on sale @ TRF as GIGHP82.  For $14, it might be
worth the peace of mind knowing it's the right part in good condition.

-- Randall  

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Mar  5 12:10:24 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 12:10:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Hose (also TR4 I suppose)
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003051030o3e8ffde6pc55acf7753f74a01@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3b0049461003051030o3e8ffde6pc55acf7753f74a01@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <760132D49A214D30BDB14BD56280F092@bboffice>

Geo,
Sure hard to tell from these pictures, but the clutch hose and the oil line
hose(engine to gauge) are the same and both ends are the same on my car. 
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 11:30 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Hose (also TR4 I suppose)

Looking at a couple of eBay items... both described as being for a TR3 but
they do not appear to be the same:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Clutch%20Hose%20!BljDy,w!Wk~$(KGrHq
UOKikEtlz8HCrnBLcGng72M!~~_12.jpg

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Clutch%20Hose%205b70_1.jpg

I'm thinking the first one looks more like what I'd expect.  Do not have the
old hose off to compare as the car is still driveable.

Any help appreciated, thanks.

Geo

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Fri Mar  5 17:28:28 2010
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 16:28:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Hose (also TR4 I suppose)
References: <3b0049461003051030o3e8ffde6pc55acf7753f74a01@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2B42D4C4A8EB4D6AB58DD5F8892CC19E@paulal73q2sjay>

On rubber products, I personally would buy new from a major supplier.  With 
ebay, there is a chance that the rubber could be old and ready to 
deteriorate.

paulw
1964 TR4
1956 TR3 (Geo's Folly)
Torrance, CA
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 10:30 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Hose (also TR4 I suppose)


> Looking at a couple of eBay items... both described as being for a TR3
> but they do not appear to be the same:
>
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Clutch%20Hose%20!BljDy,w!Wk~$(KGrHqUOKikEtlz8HCrnBLcGng72M!~~_12.jpg
>
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Clutch%20Hose%205b70_1.jpg
>
> I'm thinking the first one looks more like what I'd expect.  Do not
> have the old hose off to compare as the car is still driveable.
>
> Any help appreciated, thanks.
>
> Geo

From L1J1S at aol.com  Fri Mar  5 17:44:03 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 19:44:03 EST
Subject: [TR] TR- TR all models
Message-ID: <30cf7.2b8ca9f7.38c2ff53@aol.com>

List, as you probably all know by now that i am a tr3-a man and not to be  
prejudice at all  with this poll i want to conduct is open to  all cars made 
by Triumph during it's production of cars. for each car i  would like to 
know what was the single most rarest factory option available  at the time. to 
get the ball rolling i will cast my vote on the tr3's. the  rarest option i 
can think of would have to be the single piece of luggage for  the trunk. 
now members go ahead and cast your vote, yes you may do so for more  than one 
model. have fun and let's get started.  larry  schwartz    1960 tr3-a

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Mar  5 18:34:13 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 18:34:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Hose (also TR4 I suppose)
In-Reply-To: <2B42D4C4A8EB4D6AB58DD5F8892CC19E@paulal73q2sjay>
References: <3b0049461003051030o3e8ffde6pc55acf7753f74a01@mail.gmail.com>
	<2B42D4C4A8EB4D6AB58DD5F8892CC19E@paulal73q2sjay>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003051734g49b00046mf24e00406911fd07@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the many suggestions, that TRF price is reason enough to
buy from a known source.

One other question... I have removed the old clutch hose and for the
life of me, it looks just like a 9.5" brake hose (those I carry a
spare of).  Possibly some PO used a brake hose so I'll ask...

What is the difference between the clutch hose and the (short TR3A)
front brake hose?  Length? Other?  Thanks.

Geo

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Mar  5 19:13:28 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 21:13:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- TR all models
In-Reply-To: <30cf7.2b8ca9f7.38c2ff53@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B9173F8.6851.7F43B15@localhost>

On 5 Mar 2010 at 19:44, L1J1S at aol.com wrote:

> for each car i  would like to know what was the single
> most rarest factory option available  at the time.

Hmmmmmm.  Most rarest?  Don't you mean mostest rarest?

> the rarest option i can think of would have to be the
> single piece of luggage for  the trunk.

So that you be the onliest piece of luggage you'd take, right?

I don't know because I wasn't in the habit of buying rare options 
back then, but for the GT6 it might be the overdrive, at least in the 
US.  T'warn't too many takers on that, so the literature says.  Why 
pay the bucks for OD and a lower diff when you had pretty good 
acceleration already?

But what do I know?  Did they offer an 8-track player?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Fri Mar  5 23:56:22 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 01:56:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- TR all models
In-Reply-To: <30cf7.2b8ca9f7.38c2ff53@aol.com>
References: <30cf7.2b8ca9f7.38c2ff53@aol.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b31003052256s3a099ac4j26d2277e005daf14@mail.gmail.com>

TR4: I'll guess the factory hard top, which included a roll bar of sorts.

Brian

On Fri, Mar 5, 2010 at 7:44 PM, <L1J1S at aol.com> wrote:

> List, as you probably all know by now that i am a tr3-a man and not to be
> prejudice at all  with this poll i want to conduct is open to  all cars
> made
> by Triumph during it's production of cars. for each car i  would like to
> know what was the single most rarest factory option available  at the time.
> to
> get the ball rolling i will cast my vote on the tr3's. the  rarest option i
> can think of would have to be the single piece of luggage for  the trunk.
> now members go ahead and cast your vote, yes you may do so for more  than
> one
> model. have fun and let's get started.  larry  schwartz    1960 tr3-a
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr4zest at gmail.com

From herald948 at aol.com  Sat Mar  6 08:20:22 2010
From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2010 10:20:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Question on Stromberg
In-Reply-To: <4B91036C.8010307@gmail.com>
References: <4B91036C.8010307@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC8B57AC6509A3-2F20-AE33@webmail-m023.sysops.aol.com>

 Gary, something is definitely off there, as the Spitfire choke SHOULD work as
any other: pull out for a cold start, and push fully home for normal running.

As I really don't know much about how the choke works on a Stromberg, I'm
copying some e-mail Triumph lists in hopes that someone else can advise.

NOTE: Please make sure to copy Gary on your replies.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Gary and Kay <gary.kay.owens at gmail.com>
To: herald948 at aol.com
Sent: Fri, Mar 5, 2010 8:13 am
Subject: Spitfire Question on Stromberg


I just got a Spitfire and wanted to know if the choke on the Stromberg
works in reverse of how I know most carbs work?  When I pull the choke
out it runs great when warm but if I push it in rpm's go down and it
shut the engine off.   Any thoughts?

thanks, Gary

From allegrorover at mac.com  Sat Mar  6 08:24:22 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2010 10:24:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- TR all models
In-Reply-To: <30cf7.2b8ca9f7.38c2ff53@aol.com>
References: <30cf7.2b8ca9f7.38c2ff53@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8BA55D0C-3079-4877-904F-865F89AB9C8A@mac.com>

I'm not sure if this was a factory option, I think it was, my vote is  
for the aero screens.
Some cars came with the predrilled holes and the caged nuts under the  
cowl.
Now just try and get the aero screen mounts.........impossible.



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Sat Mar  6 08:37:55 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 15:37:55 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR- TR all models
In-Reply-To: <30cf7.2b8ca9f7.38c2ff53@aol.com>
References: <30cf7.2b8ca9f7.38c2ff53@aol.com>
Message-ID: <841569.66986.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Larry Schwartz wrote: 
>List, as you probably all know by now that i am a
tr3-a man and not to be  
prejudice at all  with this poll i want to conduct
is open to  all cars made 
by Triumph during it's production of cars.

So, to
be clear, we're talking about *production line* fit of components/features for
*all* cars - not just sports cars (?), rather than what was fitted in Sales
Conversion *after* car pass-off from final finish at the factory or at a
dealer / national importer?

Assuming that's what's meant (and I wish I still
had my Production Control Reference Books) here goes. The majority of these
additional features were usually termed as 'territory specific' / features for
special build models / but they *were* available if a dealer enquired. Most
dealers didn't and the factory intentionally didn't go out of its way to
provide lists.
	* Low compression engines capable of running on fuel down to
78 Octane leaded Research Method
	* A range of different camshafts for low and
high comp engines in which cam profiling created narrower power and torque
bands
	* A range of different distributors to match camshafts above.
	*
Engines with increased power. Mostly these were on the 1963-1980 ish 2000 and
2500 sedans that were popular with UK police forces. As an example, the 2.5PI
sedan in normal trim produced about 130SAE at the flywheel, the police spec
did about 170 - with even better torque.
	* Engine skid plates and full
underbody skid plates for tropical markets
	* Heavy duty suspension - which
included larger shocks and stiffer coil or leaf springs
	* Variable radiator
sizes/capacities
	* Variable size heater matrices to meet differing local
market ambients - i.e. you wouldn't need a Scandinavian heater in a car
destined for a warm climate. you could get away with a cooler heater unit.
	*
"Italian" wiring looms. This was a generic for left or right hand steer cars
and the wiring loom included at least twelve main line fuses with a
multiplicity of relays for different functions. Called "Italian" because Italy
had uncompromising electrical requirements for national homologation
standards.  Often found in police cars because of the additional electrical
equipment they carred.
	* High output alternators. From memory, I think the
largest was a Lucas 50amp unit.
	* Three speed fans and wipers with the option
for Iceland and Scandinavia for a triple wiper blade set-up
	* Heavy duty
batteries
	* Side outlet exhausts. These were (obviously) shorter than a
standard system with a flattened tailpipe venting to just forward of the left
rear wheel. Often found on cars with engine or full chassis skid plates
	*
'Mecafluid' undercar lubrication system (not engine oil leak dependent!!!) and
adapted from commercial vehicle applications. Cost an arm and a leg!
	*
In-built hydraulic jacking system for Big Six saloons - another arm and leg!
* Full leather upholstery for all cars - not leather just on the wearing faces
* Polished hardwood instrument panels in walnut, yew, cherry and mahogany.
These were *solid* wood and cost a fortune
	* Overdrive on any car model -
except for 1300 and 1500 front wheel drive
	* Variable axle ratios - with or
without overdrive, allied to differing speedo heads in miles or kms. Separate
speedo heads yet again for cars with Michelin X tyres with further
permutations for the variable axle ratio and with/without overdrive.
	*
Vertical dip headlights - useful if the car was likely to see extensive use in
the UK and Europe
	* Calibrated instruments rather than dashes to show
increments or combi oil press/temp as found on MGB/Spridget
	* Variable wheel
offsets from 4.5 to 6 J
That's all I can remember of many many more at the
moment. For record purposes, my own GT6 Mk 2 (GT6+) had solid wood
mahogany instrument panel, 3.27 final drive with O/D, full leather seats,
Michelin XAS combi OP/T gauge and appropriate speedo.
 
Jonmac

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sat Mar  6 09:24:54 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 08:24:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] aero screen mounts
Message-ID: <708437.80882.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

tony mentioned in his post that:

"Now just try and get the aero screen mounts.........impossible."

don't the  mounts come with the aero screens when purchased?

just curious

gary n.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Mar  6 09:52:26 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2010 09:52:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Question on Stromberg
In-Reply-To: <8CC8B57AC6509A3-2F20-AE33@webmail-m023.sysops.aol.com>
References: <4B91036C.8010307@gmail.com>
	<8CC8B57AC6509A3-2F20-AE33@webmail-m023.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B92884A.2030503@bradakis.com>

If the car needs the choke pulled out to run, you have some issues
with the intake system.  Basically it indicates that the fuel to air
mixture is way too lean with the choke in the normal running
position.

First thing I'd do is check for air leaks around the manifold gaskets.
With the car idling, as best as it can, spray some carb cleaner or
starting fluid around the manifold gaskets, both at the head to
manifold and carb to manifold joints.  If the speed of the idle
changes when you spray, there's a leak.  Also check the area
where the throttle shafts run in the carb body.

It may also be a fuel restriction like bad float level, dirty
needle or such.  Since it does run with the choke chances are
good you are getting sufficient fuel into the carb, the issue is
getting sufficient fuel out of the carb.


mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Mar  6 10:07:28 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2010 10:07:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Spitfire Question on Stromberg
In-Reply-To: <8CC8B57AC6509A3-2F20-AE33@webmail-m023.sysops.aol.com>
References: <4B91036C.8010307@gmail.com>
	<8CC8B57AC6509A3-2F20-AE33@webmail-m023.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B928BD0.8020100@bradakis.com>

Another quick note - when spraying around the carb, be aware
that some chemicals can damage the rubber diaphragm inside
the carb cover.  Don't be using a heavy hand around the front
of the carb when spraying.

mjb.

From allegrorover at mac.com  Sat Mar  6 10:12:04 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2010 12:12:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] aero screen mounts
In-Reply-To: <708437.80882.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <708437.80882.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2BAD9399-FF19-4113-A74E-79DCC101FB16@mac.com>

Yes Gary the reproduction aero screens come with mounts, but as in my  
case the car already had the predrilled holes with the captured nuts  
under the cowl, I couldn't see any purpose in drilling additional  
holes for the aftermarket posts.
I have been fiddling with a set of mounts that I had cast from a set  
someone lent me, but again it wasn't quite right.
The windscreen seal hits these mounts and causes a gap in the seal,  
not good in the rain.
What I have seen on an old Triumph movie was a car coming to I guess  
it would have been the Brookland racing course and two blokes removing  
the windscreen and the car then goes out and races, when it comes back  
the two blokes replace the windscreen, (with the aero screens in  
place) and off he goes home.
I guess that's what I am trying to do with my TR3A now that I have the  
roll bar installed again. It just gives that racing look about it, not  
that I am racing or anything like that.




Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar  6 10:45:01 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 09:45:01 -0800
Subject: [TR] aero screen mounts
In-Reply-To: <708437.80882.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <50.7F.23396.C94929B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> don't the  mounts come with the aero screens when purchased?

I believe Tony's problem is that the currently available reproductions do
not mount exactly the same as the originals.  The early TRs had captive nuts
built into the body for mounting the factory-optional screens; but the
aftermarket screens don't fit those nuts.

Don't recall offhand when the captive nuts were deleted, but it was pretty
early.  TS13571L has them, TS39781LO did not.

Randall

From allegrorover at mac.com  Sat Mar  6 11:44:10 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2010 13:44:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] aero screen mounts
In-Reply-To: <50.7F.23396.C94929B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <50.7F.23396.C94929B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <B829B52C-B629-4E5B-A584-92BFA029C85B@mac.com>

Mine is TS27093LO, so some time thereafter they must have stopped.
But trying to find what they put on originally is the hard part.
I was in the UK for the past two weeks and met with the Essex Triumph  
club and they hadn't seen any of the originals.
I even went to the Brooklands race course and they weren't any help,  
except to explain that many cars came to the track and had modified  
aero screens.
Mike Sabelhaus who is presently assigned to the UK is going to  
Stoneleigh on March 7 & 8th, and he promises to have a look for me.  
Wish I could have stayed longer to have a look for myself and ask  
questions.



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 13:58:12 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2010 15:58:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hood Sticks Cover
Message-ID: <4B92C1E4.2030206@gmail.com>

Hello,

I'm preparing to install a new convertible top on my TR4A, and I need to 
paint the hood sticks and front and rear metal strips.  My car was 
originally white with a red interior and I'm redoing it the same with a 
white top. It looks the hood sticks were originally a tan color - not 
the white body color.  Were all car's hood sticks tan regardless of body 
or top color?

I'm about to order a Robbins top from TRF, but don't have it yet.  I 
believe the Robbins top will have a black interior lining - can anyone 
confirm that?  My inclination is to paint the hood sticks the original 
tan color, but my wife says if the inside of the top is black that won't 
look right.  Her opinion is that I should paint them black if the inside 
of the top is black.  I'm looking for other suggestions and opinions.

Thanks, Ben......

-- 
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sat Mar  6 14:10:12 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 16:10:12 EST
Subject: [TR] aero screen mounts
Message-ID: <5ace5.5cb80465.38c41eb4@aol.com>

Here's what I know:
 
My car is TS22930LO, so has the fittings/mountings for the original-type  
aeroscreens. I bought Brooklands aeroscreens (the ones currently available) 
but  they don't match up to the car's original mountings.
 
Communication then took place between myself and a real aeroscreen guru  
called Tom Maddock (_ukz3man at yahoo.com_ (mailto:ukz3man at yahoo.com) ).  Tom 
produces conversion kits to make the Brooklands aeroscreen fit the original  
mountings. I bought a set from him; they work great. The mounting kit also  
includes seals for between the screens and the body that are designed to be 
the  right height and fill the gap properly.
 
One thing to bear in mind is that the glass on the original aeroscreens has 
 quite a bit more surface area than the glass on the Brooklands screens. 
The  original frames were about the same size as the later ones, but the 
original  glass widens out to be wider and taller than the later ones, giving a 
bit  more protection.
 
I've only just fitted my Brooklands aeroscreens, using Tom's conversion  
kits, so I can't tell you if they divert sufficient air flow/rain/bugs/etc. at 
 speed. They certainly sit lower to the body than intended. To me, that 
would not  seem to be a problem but, with every conversion kit, Tom provides a 
template for  the earlier glass to fit the later frame.
 
Let me know if you need further info.
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sat Mar  6 14:24:18 2010
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2010 16:24:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] aero screen mounts
In-Reply-To: <50.7F.23396.C94929B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <50.7F.23396.C94929B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4B92C802.4000104@frontiernet.net>

My TS15559LT has the mounting holes.

George Richardson



Randall wrote:
>> don't the  mounts come with the aero screens when purchased?
>>     
>
> I believe Tony's problem is that the currently available reproductions do
> not mount exactly the same as the originals.  The early TRs had captive nuts
> built into the body for mounting the factory-optional screens; but the
> aftermarket screens don't fit those nuts.
>
> Don't recall offhand when the captive nuts were deleted, but it was pretty
> early.  TS13571L has them, TS39781LO did not.
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gprtech at frontiernet.net
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4627 (20091121) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>
>   


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From jtnichols at comcast.net  Sat Mar  6 14:57:12 2010
From: jtnichols at comcast.net (jtnichols at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 21:57:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] aero screen mounts
In-Reply-To: <50.7F.23396.C94929B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <233001276.1364721267912632272.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I have TS32093LO, a '58 TR3A, and it has the captive nuts for the factory aeroscreens. But, sadly, no aeroscreens although I do have the original chromed bolts to mount them. 

John T. Nichols 
Manassas, VA 
'58 TR3A TS32093LO 
'86 TVR 280i 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2010 12:45:01 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [TR] aero screen mounts 

> don't the mounts come with the aero screens when purchased? 

I believe Tony's problem is that the currently available reproductions do 
not mount exactly the same as the originals. The early TRs had captive nuts 
built into the body for mounting the factory-optional screens; but the 
aftermarket screens don't fit those nuts. 

Don't recall offhand when the captive nuts were deleted, but it was pretty 
early. TS13571L has them, TS39781LO did not. 

Randall 

_______________________________________________ 
Triumphs at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $11.47 
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jtnichols at comcast.net 

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Mar  6 15:40:14 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 17:40:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hood Sticks Cover
References: <4B92C1E4.2030206@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F9A59EC558224A338FDA66E553F37B79@userb38463fba5>

They are originally the tan color. You can buy an acceptable match at an ACE 
Hardware. Then again it's your car and it's your wife's opinion!
JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ben Zwissler" <bjzwissler at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 3:58 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hood Sticks Cover


> Hello,
>
> I'm preparing to install a new convertible top on my TR4A, and I need to 
> paint the hood sticks and front and rear metal strips.  My car was 
> originally white with a red interior and I'm redoing it the same with a 
> white top. It looks the hood sticks were originally a tan color - not the 
> white body color.  Were all car's hood sticks tan regardless of body or 
> top color?
>
> I'm about to order a Robbins top from TRF, but don't have it yet.  I 
> believe the Robbins top will have a black interior lining - can anyone 
> confirm that?  My inclination is to paint the hood sticks the original tan 
> color, but my wife says if the inside of the top is black that won't look 
> right.  Her opinion is that I should paint them black if the inside of the 
> top is black.  I'm looking for other suggestions and opinions.
>
> Thanks, Ben......
>
> -- 
> Ben Zwissler
> bjzwissler at gmail.com
> Columbus, IN
> 1966 Triumph TR4A
> 1973 MG Midget
> 1980 Triumph TR8
> 2007 Mazda RX8
> 2002 Yamaha FZ1
> 2003 Honda ST1300
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Mar  6 16:12:08 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 15:12:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hood Sticks Cover
In-Reply-To: <F9A59EC558224A338FDA66E553F37B79@userb38463fba5>
References: <4B92C1E4.2030206@gmail.com>
	<F9A59EC558224A338FDA66E553F37B79@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <667865.49720.qm@web113312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

and when Her indoors has an opinion iv learned to heed it
Frank
________________________________
From: Jerry Van Vlack
<jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
To: Ben Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com>;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, March 6, 2010 2:40:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR]
TR4A Hood Sticks Cover

They are originally the tan color. You can buy an
acceptable match at an ACE Hardware. Then again it's your car and it's your
wife's opinion!
JVV
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ben Zwissler"
<bjzwissler at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 06,
2010 3:58 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hood Sticks Cover


> Hello,
> 
> I'm
preparing to install a new convertible top on my TR4A, and I need to paint the
hood sticks and front and rear metal strips.  My car was originally white with
a red interior and I'm redoing it the same with a white top. It looks the hood
sticks were originally a tan color - not the white body color.  Were all car's
hood sticks tan regardless of body or top color?
> 
> I'm about to order a
Robbins top from TRF, but don't have it yet.  I believe the Robbins top will
have a black interior lining - can anyone confirm that?  My inclination is to
paint the hood sticks the original tan color, but my wife says if the inside
of the top is black that won't look right.  Her opinion is that I should paint
them black if the inside of the top is black.  I'm looking for other
suggestions and opinions.
> 
> Thanks, Ben......
> 
> -- Ben Zwissler
>
bjzwissler at gmail.com
> Columbus, IN
> 1966 Triumph TR4A
> 1973 MG Midget
>
1980 Triumph TR8
> 2007 Mazda RX8
> 2002 Yamaha FZ1
> 2003 Honda ST1300
> 
>
_______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com
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From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Sat Mar  6 16:14:11 2010
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 15:14:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hood Sticks Cover
References: <4B92C1E4.2030206@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E579DCC476424EA892D006702DFCA875@paulal73q2sjay>

My 64 TR4 has the tan hood sticks.  That original color looks fine with my 
black lined white top.  I did a quick check of the list archives for a spray 
can color but couldn't find one.  A couple old posts list the color as 
Sandalwood beige.  I say paint them tan.

paulw
1964 TR4
1956 TR3

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ben Zwissler" <bjzwissler at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 12:58 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hood Sticks Cover


> Hello,
>
> I'm preparing to install a new convertible top on my TR4A, and I need to 
> paint the hood sticks and front and rear metal strips.  My car was 
> originally white with a red interior and I'm redoing it the same with a 
> white top. It looks the hood sticks were originally a tan color - not the 
> white body color.  Were all car's hood sticks tan regardless of body or 
> top color?
>
> I'm about to order a Robbins top from TRF, but don't have it yet.  I 
> believe the Robbins top will have a black interior lining - can anyone 
> confirm that?  My inclination is to paint the hood sticks the original tan 
> color, but my wife says if the inside of the top is black that won't look 
> right.  Her opinion is that I should paint them black if the inside of the 
> top is black.  I'm looking for other suggestions and opinions.
>
> Thanks, Ben......

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 16:54:42 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 16:54:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Won't Bleed
Message-ID: <3b0049461003061554w755a09d7i9e455dac579ee35b@mail.gmail.com>

For years I have read posts about problems bleeding the clutch and
have been mystified how this could be as it always worked fine for me.
 Until now.

It started as a routine adjustment check and bleed -- but it wouldn't pump up.

I have now replaced everything rubber (MC rebuild kit, Slave rebuild
kit & hose) and still I get the dead pedal, no fluid pumping.

I have tried bleeding it with the slave dangling rather than mounted.

Can it be that there is air in that bit of hard line from the
reservoir to the MC that will not move on?

I have never done a bench-bleed -- could that be needed?  Would
undoing the inlet and outlet pipes on the MC and use eye-dropper to
fill the cylinder make sense.

I did rig up a pressure cap for the reservoir and introduced about 10#
of air pressure, no joy.

What's really frustrating is that at one point (after the new hose and
MC seals) I had it working but was getting a tiny leak from the slave
and that is when I decided to go ahead and redo it too.  Now I'm back
to nada.

Failing a solution I'll take any rationale that blames my wife (though
she has been a real good sport spending way too much time in the
drivers seat doing the pedal work).

Thanks for any help.

Geo

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Mar  6 17:39:24 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 17:39:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Won't Bleed
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003061554w755a09d7i9e455dac579ee35b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3b0049461003061554w755a09d7i9e455dac579ee35b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C625341835C24B3BB0327E9D0C46D5D0@bboffice>

No, don't blame your wife because you are going to need her again bleed the
brakes too!  I am at the same point, tried last night and had nothing.  

Try This: Take all the adjustment out of your pedal, by screwing the rod all
the way in and letting the pedal adjuster all the way out, so you have the
maximum stroke for the piston, then give it a try to see if it pumps up for
you.  From there you can adjust it in to where the travel is right. To begin
with, you want the piston to star as far forward (out of) the master
cylinder sleeve as you can.

All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 4:55 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Won't Bleed

For years I have read posts about problems bleeding the clutch and have been
mystified how this could be as it always worked fine for me.
 Until now.

It started as a routine adjustment check and bleed -- but it wouldn't pump
up.

I have now replaced everything rubber (MC rebuild kit, Slave rebuild kit &
hose) and still I get the dead pedal, no fluid pumping.

I have tried bleeding it with the slave dangling rather than mounted.

Can it be that there is air in that bit of hard line from the reservoir to
the MC that will not move on?

I have never done a bench-bleed -- could that be needed?  Would undoing the
inlet and outlet pipes on the MC and use eye-dropper to fill the cylinder
make sense.

I did rig up a pressure cap for the reservoir and introduced about 10# of
air pressure, no joy.

What's really frustrating is that at one point (after the new hose and MC
seals) I had it working but was getting a tiny leak from the slave and that
is when I decided to go ahead and redo it too.  Now I'm back to nada.

Failing a solution I'll take any rationale that blames my wife (though she
has been a real good sport spending way too much time in the drivers seat
doing the pedal work).

Thanks for any help.

Geo

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat Mar  6 18:14:20 2010
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 17:14:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Won't Bleed
References: <3b0049461003061554w755a09d7i9e455dac579ee35b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C7C1CCF0F7D8434CB076F174B4381D31@Dell>

Two possibilities come to mind, you've probably thought of them both, but 
sometimes the obvious.. well, isn't. One, the bleed valve is buggered up, 
did you try pumping with it removed entirely? And two, the reservoir has a 
lot of sediment stuff blocking the line. When I convereted to silicone, 
there was so much congealed brake fluid in the reservoir, I had to remove 
the reservoir to clean it out.  Just some thoughts.
Bob



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 3:54 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Won't Bleed


> For years I have read posts about problems bleeding the clutch and
> have been mystified how this could be as it always worked fine for me.
> Until now.
>
> It started as a routine adjustment check and bleed -- but it wouldn't pump 
> up.
>
> I have now replaced everything rubber (MC rebuild kit, Slave rebuild
> kit & hose) and still I get the dead pedal, no fluid pumping.
>
> I have tried bleeding it with the slave dangling rather than mounted.
>
> Can it be that there is air in that bit of hard line from the
> reservoir to the MC that will not move on?
>
> I have never done a bench-bleed -- could that be needed?  Would
> undoing the inlet and outlet pipes on the MC and use eye-dropper to
> fill the cylinder make sense.
>
> I did rig up a pressure cap for the reservoir and introduced about 10#
> of air pressure, no joy.
>
> What's really frustrating is that at one point (after the new hose and
> MC seals) I had it working but was getting a tiny leak from the slave
> and that is when I decided to go ahead and redo it too.  Now I'm back
> to nada.
>
> Failing a solution I'll take any rationale that blames my wife (though
> she has been a real good sport spending way too much time in the
> drivers seat doing the pedal work).
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar  6 19:15:52 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 18:15:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Won't Bleed
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003061554w755a09d7i9e455dac579ee35b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <70.00.23425.85C039B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Can it be that there is air in that bit of hard line from the
> reservoir to the MC that will not move on?

Yup, sounds like just the problem.  Try bleeding at the outlet of the MC
first to work it out.  Once the MC is full of fluid, you should be able to
bleed the slave as usual.

Randall

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sat Mar  6 23:03:03 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 00:03:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] LBCs and Oscars
Message-ID: <643C43C9383445828639D99A1FD510A5@trigeni.com>

One of the contenders for best movie this year is "An Education", which I saw
tonight.  Set in England in the early sixties - a GREAT movie with lots of
good LBCs, including two TR3As, lots of Mk II Jags, a Healey 3000, countless
Morris Minors, a few minis, an Austin A40, an Austin Cambridge, a Rover 90 and
a Bristol 405.  Exquisite!

Michael Marr
1960 TR3A
Plainfield, IL

From spamiam at comcast.net  Sun Mar  7 05:36:11 2010
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 07:36:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hood sticks color
Message-ID: <C4070752-8320-4A8B-8BAE-E51F1B105274@comcast.net>

The original color is tan or sandalwood. This was done because the  
original top had a natural tan canvas color on the inside. Originally  
the tops were vinyl only on one side.

My new top is a beige color on the inside and is not really the  
original tan. The original tan is not available anywhere as far as I  
know.  I think that if the new top is black on the inside then you  
should paint the sticks black too. Otherwise tan

Tony

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Mar  7 05:45:49 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 12:45:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Question on Stromberg
In-Reply-To: <4B92884A.2030503@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <672468901.1713971267965949239.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>If the car needs the choke pulled out to run, you have some issues
>with the intake system. B Basically it indicates that the fuel to air
>mixture is way too lean with the choke in the normal running
>position.

>It may also be a fuel restriction like bad float level, dirty
>needle or such. B Since it does run with the choke chances are
>good you are getting sufficient fuel into the carb, the issue is
>getting sufficient fuel out of the carb.

Would just add to Mark's comments, that a sticking float valve could be the
issue.B  Ran into that yesterday with my '59 Case 200B series farm tractor.B 
It would stick, then unstick, run fine, then starve for fuel.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667

New Hampshire

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar  7 08:10:20 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 15:10:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hood Sticks Cover
In-Reply-To: <E579DCC476424EA892D006702DFCA875@paulal73q2sjay>
References: <4B92C1E4.2030206@gmail.com>,
	<E579DCC476424EA892D006702DFCA875@paulal73q2sjay>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W510474E7E64E4F92421326E5360@phx.gbl>

I had mine powder coated and have never regretted it.  No nicks or scratches
in the surface after years of using them.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar  7 08:13:53 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 15:13:53 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Won't Bleed
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003061554w755a09d7i9e455dac579ee35b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3b0049461003061554w755a09d7i9e455dac579ee35b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W235162FDFBC72DBB11352AE5360@phx.gbl>

>I have never done a bench-bleed -- could that be needed?  Absolutely bench
bleed the master cylinder.  If you are not getting any pedal the master cyl is
the first suspect.

Best regards,
Tom




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Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Sun Mar  7 11:23:47 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 11:23:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Electrical
Message-ID: <6463B9A9-9604-4768-BC6A-2DC5B0C462CB@cox.net>

I have a Dan Masters electrical system in my 60 TR3A - which I love.  I kept
the old voltage regulator & "fuse box."  My question is, does anyone have a
good picture that shows their exact location.  I dug out the car's original
owner's manual but can not really tell exactly where they where they go.  I
just want to put them back in strictly for looks.

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Mar  7 12:45:06 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 11:45:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alt Spacer
Message-ID: <a06240802c7b9b1c0a290@[192.168.2.2]>

Hi folks,
	I need the dimensions of the small alternator spacer used to 
shim the mounting bolt for a 1970 TR6 , height, width.  Yep, can't 
find the one that fell out.  I wonder if a nylon  spacer would work, 
or would the engine heat melt it ... curious minds would like to know.

Thanks for the help
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 13:35:18 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 13:35:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch Won't Bleed
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W235162FDFBC72DBB11352AE5360@phx.gbl>
References: <3b0049461003061554w755a09d7i9e455dac579ee35b@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY110-W235162FDFBC72DBB11352AE5360@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003071235t6145979kc05bd85799e09bba@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the many suggestions.  As most suspected there was a big
pocket of air in the MC &/or the line from the reservoir.  Futzing
with the MC with the outlet line open got it filled enough that it
would bleed.

Never had this problem before & I think I know why.  Since I use DOT5
I am in the habit of just unstoppering the hard lines and have them
oozing some brake fluid as I get them connected.  This time I thought
I'd be clever and rubber banded a piece of 'rubber' glove over the
reservoir to eliminate spillage from the open hard line.  That worked
well, so well in fact that the MC was totally dry after everything was
hooked up.

Geo

From WCA09 at aol.com  Mon Mar  8 10:02:17 2010
From: WCA09 at aol.com (WCA09 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 12:02:17 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Rotors
Message-ID: <186a8.42f1f187.38c68799@aol.com>

Hello, List,
I'm working on the front brakes of my '61 TR3A.  Just pulled the  rotors 
and there is some light scoring, but overall they look salvageable.   I'd like 
to have them turned at the shop I use, only they don't have  a minimum 
rotor thickness spec. for the TR3A.  Help!?  Thanks in  advance.
Bill

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Mar  8 10:11:31 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 12:11:31 EST
Subject: [TR] Non-LBC
Message-ID: <1b317.9d18fa7.38c689c3@cs.com>

I don't normally forward this kind of thing but this is the most elaborate 
Rube Goldberg I have ever seen.

http://videos.komando.com/2010/03/08/ok-gos-rube-goldberg-machine/

Dave

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Mar  8 11:39:08 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 10:39:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] brake booster
Message-ID: <473747.58731.qm@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I had my master cylinder leak into my booster several years ago.  I took the booster off and laid it so it could drain out overnight and re-installed it.  It worked ok for several years after that.

I just recently had Ted Schumacher over haul mine and am happy with it and thought it was a reasonable price.  $125 if i remember right.

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar  8 13:54:58 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 12:54:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Rotors
In-Reply-To: <186a8.42f1f187.38c68799@aol.com>
References: <186a8.42f1f187.38c68799@aol.com>
Message-ID: <03b501cabf01$9dc20090$0301a8c0@randall>

> I'd like 
> to have them turned at the shop I use, only they don't have  
> a minimum 
> rotor thickness spec. for the TR3A. 

I have never found an official "minimum thickness" from the factory.
However, the workshop manual says to never remove more than .060", and the
original thickness appears to be .500".  So I think .440" is a pretty good
guess.

Randall

From jr468 at hotmail.com  Mon Mar  8 15:29:42 2010
From: jr468 at hotmail.com (John Reed)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 17:29:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice need
Message-ID: <BLU105-W25CFBFDAA3E1CBCB9EFD93ED350@phx.gbl>

Thanks to everyone that sent replies when I was looking for help in deciding
if and what size wire wheels to get for my TR3.  There were lots of opinions,
and it was helpful to hear them all.  I decided on 15x5.5 72 spoke Dunlop
wheels.  Everyone that had tried wider wheels and tires liked them and highly
recommended them.  No one had complaints about heavier steering.  All with
wider tires liked the handling better.  I choose Dunlop wheels because Dayton
doesn't make a 5.5" wide wheel (according to a salesman at Dayton they only
make 5" and 6").  The 5.5" gives me the option to run up to a 195 tire and I
saw no need to go up to 6".  From what I saw on the web it looks like there
are a lot of TR3s in Australia and a number in England with 72 spoke wire
wheels.  I've heard the Dunlop chrome is not up to the standards of Dayton,
but paint quality has been good.  I've sent the wheels to Hendrix Wire Wheel
for trueing and mounting.  Since I'm having them trued I wasn't so concerned
about the claims that Dunlop wheels typically need trueing before use.



Performance tires are widely available in 195/65.  And that is probably the
best choice, but here is where I took a small step in gaining width.  I
ordered 185/70 Vredestein sprints.  I'll see how these look and feel on the
road.  Maybe the next set of tires will be 195s.



/John

From jr468 at hotmail.com  Mon Mar  8 15:36:08 2010
From: jr468 at hotmail.com (John Reed)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 17:36:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Sway bar mounting on a small mouth TR3
Message-ID: <BLU105-W1125F444583448E82911CED350@phx.gbl>

I see the Addco front sway bar (anti-sway if you prefer) is only listed for
the 58 and later TR3 with the beefier front bumper brackets.  Has anyone here
mounted a front sway bar on the earlier TR3 or TR2?  What make sway bar?
Where does it mount?  Did you need to make any mounting parts?



/John

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar  8 17:09:46 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 16:09:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] Sway bar mounting on a small mouth TR3
In-Reply-To: <BLU105-W1125F444583448E82911CED350@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU105-W1125F444583448E82911CED350@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <040701cabf1c$d3f52b90$0301a8c0@randall>

> I see the Addco front sway bar (anti-sway if you prefer) is 
> only listed for
> the 58 and later TR3 with the beefier front bumper brackets.  
> Has anyone here
> mounted a front sway bar on the earlier TR3 or TR2?  What 
> make sway bar?

Well, since the PO had put a later front apron on my 56, I decided to leave
it and use the later style bumper brackets to mount my ADDCO sway bar.  But
eventually, I plan to make some custom brackets, so I can keep the ADDCO bar
and convert to the earlier bumper & apron.

In fact, the factory-optional bar for the TR4 used such brackets, so that
would be one potential source for them (although of course the TR4 bar is
too wide for the TR3 and the ADDCO bar would have to be modified at best to
work with the TR4 mounts).

Another solution is to turn the bar around backwards, and mount the brackets
to the bottom of the frame.  But that leaves them hanging down rather close
to the ground, so I decided not to go that route.

BTW, I don't believe the issue with the early bumper mounts is necessarily
strength, as much as they simply don't offer any place to put the bar
mounts.  If you were inclined that way, I suspect you could even make
brackets that would clamp to the early bumper mounts and in turn provide a
flat place for the sway bar mounts.  The forces involved aren't very large.

Randall

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Mon Mar  8 17:41:21 2010
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 16:41:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] Sway bar mounting on a small mouth TR3
References: <BLU105-W1125F444583448E82911CED350@phx.gbl>
	<040701cabf1c$d3f52b90$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <39A9BC4F6A0E4E7BA9D2DF9DB1C2F69A@paulal73q2sjay>

I used the addco sway bar on my 56 TR3.  I made custom center brackets out 
of some angle iron and bolted them under the radiator mounting bolts.

paulw
Torrance, CA
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'triumph list'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Sway bar mounting on a small mouth TR3


>> I see the Addco front sway bar (anti-sway if you prefer) is
>> only listed for
>> the 58 and later TR3 with the beefier front bumper brackets.
>> Has anyone here
>> mounted a front sway bar on the earlier TR3 or TR2?  What
>> make sway bar?
>
> Well, since the PO had put a later front apron on my 56, I decided to 
> leave
> it and use the later style bumper brackets to mount my ADDCO sway bar. 
> But
> eventually, I plan to make some custom brackets, so I can keep the ADDCO 
> bar
> and convert to the earlier bumper & apron.
>
> In fact, the factory-optional bar for the TR4 used such brackets, so that
> would be one potential source for them (although of course the TR4 bar is
> too wide for the TR3 and the ADDCO bar would have to be modified at best 
> to
> work with the TR4 mounts).
>
> Another solution is to turn the bar around backwards, and mount the 
> brackets
> to the bottom of the frame.  But that leaves them hanging down rather 
> close
> to the ground, so I decided not to go that route.
>
> BTW, I don't believe the issue with the early bumper mounts is necessarily
> strength, as much as they simply don't offer any place to put the bar
> mounts.  If you were inclined that way, I suspect you could even make
> brackets that would clamp to the early bumper mounts and in turn provide a
> flat place for the sway bar mounts.  The forces involved aren't very 
> large.
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/paulwillou at socal.rr.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR3 Engine Almost Finished5.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR3 Engine Almost Finished4.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR3 Engine Almost Finished1.JPG]

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Mar  8 18:26:00 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 17:26:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] Sway bar mounting on a small mouth TR3
In-Reply-To: <39A9BC4F6A0E4E7BA9D2DF9DB1C2F69A@paulal73q2sjay>
References: <BLU105-W1125F444583448E82911CED350@phx.gbl>
	<040701cabf1c$d3f52b90$0301a8c0@randall>
	<39A9BC4F6A0E4E7BA9D2DF9DB1C2F69A@paulal73q2sjay>
Message-ID: <a06240801c7bb53e42feb@[192.168.2.2]>

I just bolted mine to the bumper mounting brackets (which are bolted 
to the frame) ... no problems.



At 4:41 PM -0800 3/8/10, Paul Willoughby wrote:
>I used the addco sway bar on my 56 TR3.  I made custom center brackets out
>of some angle iron and bolted them under the radiator mounting bolts.
>
>paulw


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Mar  8 19:05:34 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 21:05:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] unknown bolts for adjustable rollbar
Message-ID: <D82EF815F9EC41DEAD637CD6E1913460@OwnerPC>

Long time, no see.

I am installing an adjustable rollbar on my 60 TR3A.  'Adjustable' because I
don't really know where on the back shelf to position and mount it.  It's
heavy (schedule 40) and narrow and by 'trial' mounting it thisway I'll be able
to decide it's position and heighth.  I used 6 pieces of
particle-board-shelves (cheap and heavy) with 3 of them under the feet of the
rollbar and 3 immediatly on-top of the feet.  This seems to hold it steady
(mind you, I've not driven this car...yet!).  Of course, I need to mount it to
something.
     On the rear of the shelf and almost in the boot, is of course, the gas
tank.  On the front side of the tank are two brackets (pedestals) that hold
the tank up.  They are welded to the shelf, howesver, they also have a bolt
and welded nuts attached.  WHAT ARE THESE TWO BOLTS FOR?  They are 7/16" fine
thread.  These might temporaily anchor my adjustable rollbar.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey             60 TR3A

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Mar  8 20:23:46 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2010 22:23:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Non-LBC
In-Reply-To: <1b317.9d18fa7.38c689c3@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4B9578F2.18442.17A7A05B@localhost>

On 8 Mar 2010 at 12:11, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> I don't normally forward this kind of thing but this is the most elaborate 
> Rube Goldberg I have ever seen.
> 
> http://videos.komando.com/2010/03/08/ok-gos-rube-goldberg-machine/

Some people have waaaay too much free time on the hands.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Mar  8 22:29:09 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 22:29:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] unknown bolts for adjustable rollbar
In-Reply-To: <D82EF815F9EC41DEAD637CD6E1913460@OwnerPC>
References: <D82EF815F9EC41DEAD637CD6E1913460@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <6FF77EBDDDD541FB8CDAD76F76A93BCF@bboffice>

Those are the anchor bolts for the straps that hold your gas tank, should be
two more like it in the trunk just on the gas tank side of the rear
partition. 

I am no roll-bar expert, and hopefully someone will chime in here, but I
should think that you would go all the way through to the frame to anchor it
securely.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 7:06 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] unknown bolts for adjustable rollbar

Long time, no see.

I am installing an adjustable rollbar on my 60 TR3A.  'Adjustable' because I
don't really know where on the back shelf to position and mount it.  It's
heavy (schedule 40) and narrow and by 'trial' mounting it thisway I'll be
able to decide it's position and heighth.  I used 6 pieces of
particle-board-shelves (cheap and heavy) with 3 of them under the feet of
the rollbar and 3 immediatly on-top of the feet.  This seems to hold it
steady (mind you, I've not driven this car...yet!).  Of course, I need to
mount it to something.
     On the rear of the shelf and almost in the boot, is of course, the gas
tank.  On the front side of the tank are two brackets (pedestals) that hold
the tank up.  They are welded to the shelf, howesver, they also have a bolt
and welded nuts attached.  WHAT ARE THESE TWO BOLTS FOR?  They are 7/16"
fine thread.  These might temporaily anchor my adjustable rollbar.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey             60 TR3A

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Tue Mar  9 17:08:33 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 16:08:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Rotors
Message-ID: <346683.64296.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

 Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 12:54:58 -0800
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Brake Rotors

> I'd like
> to have them turned at the shop I use, only they don't have 
> a minimum
> rotor thickness spec. for the TR3A.

I have never found an official "minimum thickness" from the factory.
However, the workshop manual says to never remove more than .060", and the
original thickness appears to be .500".  So I think .440" is a pretty good
guess.

Randall


----------------------------------------
Here is what I have on this thread that has been discussed in the past:
Brakes\Front\Rotors
Subject:             Rotor Thickness
Date:               Tue, 28 May 2002
From:             <WBabbitt at aol.com>
 
<Bwfox at aol.com> writes:
> Listerati:
> What is the minimum safe thickness for TR4A brake rotors?
> -Barry Fox
 
My new TR4A rotors (I believe they came from TRF) have a minimum thickness of
11.4 mm stamped on them.
According to the Bentley Manual, minimum thickness is 11.18 mm. You pick it,
-Bill Babbitt
 ---------------------------------  &  
Brakes\Front\Rotors
Subject:             240Z brake drums & rotor thickness
Date:               Sat, 08 Jan 2000
From:             Alan Myers <reagntsj at ricochet.net>
 
In case it is helpful to anyone on the list, just checked a new TR4 rotor in
the garage & it is marked min. thickness 11.3 mm, which I believe converts to
.44 inch. Since it's new, I measured the starting thickness & found it is
.505, which means you have .065 of wear allowed over the life of the rotor. I
am guessing that TR3 through TR6 are probably about the same. May be diff. for
some of the other Triumphs out there.
 
The min. thickness on this rotor (Brembo) is stamped into the outside rim.
I've also seen it cast into the hub area of the rotor.
-Alan Myers
-----------------------
BTW- These threads where taken out of my TR4/A E-mail repair manual.

-Cosmo Kramer

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Tue Mar  9 17:38:41 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 19:38:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Rotors
In-Reply-To: <346683.64296.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <346683.64296.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b31003091638l182cb86amf8f272b4af58b7a7@mail.gmail.com>

That is helpful Cosmo, thanks. I could never read the discs of your manual
you kindly gave me as they were on an odd word processor and I only have a
Mac. Never mind.

How is your car? I remember you had issues last fall that meant you couldn't
drive to the National, after riding with uncle jack for a while. You flew in
as I recall.

If your car is fixed, what was the issue?

See you on Jekyll Island!

Cheers, Brian



On Tue, Mar 9, 2010 at 7:08 PM, Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com> wrote:

>  Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 12:54:58 -0800
> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Brake Rotors
>
> > I'd like
> > to have them turned at the shop I use, only they don't have
> > a minimum
> > rotor thickness spec. for the TR3A.
>
> I have never found an official "minimum thickness" from the factory.
> However, the workshop manual says to never remove more than .060", and the
> original thickness appears to be .500".  So I think .440" is a pretty good
> guess.
>
> Randall
>
>
> ----------------------------------------
> Here is what I have on this thread that has been discussed in the past:
> Brakes\Front\Rotors
> Subject:             Rotor Thickness
> Date:               Tue, 28 May 2002
> From:             <WBabbitt at aol.com>
>
> <Bwfox at aol.com> writes:
> > Listerati:
> > What is the minimum safe thickness for TR4A brake rotors?
> > -Barry Fox
>
> My new TR4A rotors (I believe they came from TRF) have a minimum thickness
> of
> 11.4 mm stamped on them.
> According to the Bentley Manual, minimum thickness is 11.18 mm. You pick
> it,
> -Bill Babbitt
>  ---------------------------------  &
> Brakes\Front\Rotors
> Subject:             240Z brake drums & rotor thickness
> Date:               Sat, 08 Jan 2000
> From:             Alan Myers <reagntsj at ricochet.net>
>
> In case it is helpful to anyone on the list, just checked a new TR4 rotor
> in
> the garage & it is marked min. thickness 11.3 mm, which I believe converts
> to
> .44 inch. Since it's new, I measured the starting thickness & found it is
> .505, which means you have .065 of wear allowed over the life of the rotor.
> I
> am guessing that TR3 through TR6 are probably about the same. May be diff.
> for
> some of the other Triumphs out there.
>
> The min. thickness on this rotor (Brembo) is stamped into the outside rim.
> I've also seen it cast into the hub area of the rotor.
> -Alan Myers
> -----------------------
> BTW- These threads where taken out of my TR4/A E-mail repair manual.
>
> -Cosmo Kramer
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr4zest at gmail.com

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Wed Mar 10 10:49:35 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 12:49:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk2 / 3 seats
Message-ID: <f99bbf591003100949k4a37b85ex378ab44a36e2aadb@mail.gmail.com>

Before going the eBay route I thought I would offer them to the list first.

I have a pair of seats from a Spitfire Mk2 or Mk3 that are very solid
seats.  They definitely need recovering but the springs look to be in very
good shape and the frames are solid and include the catch mechanism at the
lower rear of the seat.

I also have a pair of Spitfire seat tracks that are in good condition.

If interested please contact me off list.

Thanks,

Brad

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 10 15:51:21 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 17:51:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] keys
References: <BLU105-W25CFBFDAA3E1CBCB9EFD93ED350@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <40BB364123E44030BCA2D4C57CB52593@Edscomputer>

List,

Well, thanks a great deal to this list, the TR250 is on track for its trip 
to Sebring next week. It's first trip down the highway in 15 years last 
weekend was a great success with only a fuel pump leak and a non working 
overdrive as problems. A new fuel pump from TRF and a solenoid adjustment 
have solved those issues.

One small item that I'd like to have is a key for the boot lid. Is there 
some kind of identification somewhere on the lock that would allow me to 
order a key or is a locksmith the only solution? If the lock has some kind 
of i.d., where is it and how do I get to it? Ditto the glove box.

TIA,

Ed Woods 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Mar 10 16:00:51 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 17:00:51 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] keys
Message-ID: <6773821.224241.1268262051939.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net>

For me, I see it on the British Heritage cert item #10, I do not see it on the
original window sticker.B  Hope this helps.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

On Mar 10, 2010, Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:

List,

Well, thanks a great deal to this list, the TR250 is on track for its trip
to Sebring next week. It's first trip down the highway in 15 years last
weekend was a great success with only a fuel pump leak and a non working
overdrive as problems. A new fuel pump from TRF and a solenoid adjustment
have solved those issues.

One small item that I'd like to have is a key for the boot lid. Is there
some kind of identification somewhere on the lock that would allow me to
order a key or is a locksmith the only solution? If the lock has some kind
of i.d., where is it and how do I get to it? Ditto the glove box.

TIA,

Ed Woods

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Mar 10 16:54:02 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 16:54:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] keys
In-Reply-To: <40BB364123E44030BCA2D4C57CB52593@Edscomputer>
References: <BLU105-W25CFBFDAA3E1CBCB9EFD93ED350@phx.gbl>
	<40BB364123E44030BCA2D4C57CB52593@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <135DE9301DFD40F192093DD43E7ACAFF@joepentiumnew>

What I did on both my Spitfires is remove the barrel and re-key them to
match the ignition key.  It is really easy to do if you have a number of
such barrels.  Just disassemble them and find the inserts that match the
ignition key profile.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 3:51 PM
To: triumph list
Subject: [TR] keys

List,

Well, thanks a great deal to this list, the TR250 is on track for its trip 
to Sebring next week. It's first trip down the highway in 15 years last 
weekend was a great success with only a fuel pump leak and a non working 
overdrive as problems. A new fuel pump from TRF and a solenoid adjustment 
have solved those issues.

One small item that I'd like to have is a key for the boot lid. Is there 
some kind of identification somewhere on the lock that would allow me to 
order a key or is a locksmith the only solution? If the lock has some kind 
of i.d., where is it and how do I get to it? Ditto the glove box.

TIA,

Ed Woods 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Mar 10 17:32:02 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 19:32:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] keys
References: <BLU105-W25CFBFDAA3E1CBCB9EFD93ED350@phx.gbl><40BB364123E44030BCA2D4C57CB52593@Edscomputer>
	<135DE9301DFD40F192093DD43E7ACAFF@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <C9AF8D1F4EAB4E8F90FAFBF638142AD0@userb38463fba5>

My guess is that the ignition key is longer on a TR250 than the trunk and 
glove box. Is there a 3 digit number on the lock? That may correspond to the 
proper key.
JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
To: "'Ed Woods'" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>; "'triumph list'" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] keys


> What I did on both my Spitfires is remove the barrel and re-key them to
> match the ignition key.  It is really easy to do if you have a number of
> such barrels.  Just disassemble them and find the inserts that match the
> ignition key profile.
>
> Joe C.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 3:51 PM
> To: triumph list
> Subject: [TR] keys
>
> List,
>
> Well, thanks a great deal to this list, the TR250 is on track for its trip
> to Sebring next week. It's first trip down the highway in 15 years last
> weekend was a great success with only a fuel pump leak and a non working
> overdrive as problems. A new fuel pump from TRF and a solenoid adjustment
> have solved those issues.
>
> One small item that I'd like to have is a key for the boot lid. Is there
> some kind of identification somewhere on the lock that would allow me to
> order a key or is a locksmith the only solution? If the lock has some kind
> of i.d., where is it and how do I get to it? Ditto the glove box.
>
> TIA,
>
> Ed Woods
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 10 18:14:53 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 17:14:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] keys
In-Reply-To: <135DE9301DFD40F192093DD43E7ACAFF@joepentiumnew>
References: <BLU105-W25CFBFDAA3E1CBCB9EFD93ED350@phx.gbl><40BB364123E44030BCA2D4C57CB52593@Edscomputer>
	<135DE9301DFD40F192093DD43E7ACAFF@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <E3B79DF5347A41E9ACF6B9256C97C19C@jdnet.deere.com>

> What I did on both my Spitfires is remove the barrel and 
> re-key them to match the ignition key. 

Along the same lines, if you can disassemble to the barrel level, then it is
easy to cut a key to fit.  Just note where the tumblers ride on the key, and
file/grind away those areas until the tumblers are flush with the surface of
the barrel.

-- Randall  

From guy at genfiniti.com  Wed Mar 10 20:40:29 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 21:40:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A Seat Questions
Message-ID: <1DDA0D65-FEE2-4D59-9230-C86823D5EDCD@genfiniti.com>

List,

I recently bought some TR4A chair frames from a friendly lister.
Have some questions I am hoping can be answered.

The backs of the chair have uneven uprights.  One is "straight" up, the other
is slightly angled toward the center line.
When these are placed in the car, does the straight side go on the B-post
side, or at the emergency brake.

I need to get my hands on some of the straps that go across the back.  Where
might one get these?  Or should I just make my own?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Wed Mar 10 21:12:49 2010
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 21:12:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Seeking list member in Orlando, FL area (Non-TR)
Message-ID: <3CFE99D0CBF04DDB860F4779FFBED318@bboffice>

Looking for someone that could go and look at a car I am considering in the
Orlando, Florida area, it is an Austin FX3.  I would be happy to pay a
reasonable fee for your services.
 
Of course, you don't have to be an Austin expert I would just like a general
condition report about paint, rust, damage etc.  It is at the restoration
garage of Phil Westbay, does anyone know him?
 
 
TIA!,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Mar 10 22:07:08 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 22:07:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW: Seeking list member in Orlando, FL area (Non-TR)
Message-ID: <AD9C839A84CB4EB48B5091B5805BDD58@bboffice>

Looking for someone that could go and look at a car I am considering in the
Orlando, Florida area, it is an Austin FX3.  I would be happy to pay a
reasonable fee for your services.
 
Of course, you don't have to be an Austin expert I would just like a general
condition report about paint, rust, damage etc.  It is at the restoration
garage of Phil Westbay, does anyone know him?
 
 
TIA!,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Mar 10 23:12:33 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 06:12:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4A Seat Questions
In-Reply-To: <1DDA0D65-FEE2-4D59-9230-C86823D5EDCD@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <1862361429.3488861268287953188.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>The backs of the chair have uneven uprights. B One is "straight" up, the
other
>is slightly angled toward the center line.
>When these are placed in the car, does the straight side go on the B-post
>side, or at the emergency brake.

>I need to get my hands on some of the straps that go across the back. B Where
>might one get these? B Or should I just make my own?

I'm not sure if the inner workings of seats differ much between your '4A and
my '3A.B And I'm not sure what you mean by "uprights," unless you mean the
chairbacks of one tilts more than the other?B  On the '3A, one seat is
adjustable, one is not.B  ISR the adjustable one stays on the drivers side,
the fixed one on the passenger side.B 



In terms of terms of the slats that go across the back to which you tack the
upholstery, somebody may make them now, but I fabricated mine out of, I think,
quarter inch underlayment from Home Depot.B  Cutting them isn't all that easy,
since they have to fit curving both down and forward.B  Then soak them in a
hot tub of water for as long as it takes them to soften and take the final
shape by gradually increasing multiple-clamp pressures to the seatback.B 
Probably easier ways to do it, but worked for me.



Have fun!

Terry SmithB  '59 TR3A (TS 58667)

New Hampshire

From jr468 at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 11 07:12:21 2010
From: jr468 at hotmail.com (John Reed)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 09:12:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Sway bar mounting on a small mouth TR3
In-Reply-To: <39A9BC4F6A0E4E7BA9D2DF9DB1C2F69A@paulal73q2sjay>
References: <BLU105-W1125F444583448E82911CED350@phx.gbl>
	<040701cabf1c$d3f52b90$0301a8c0@randall>,
	<39A9BC4F6A0E4E7BA9D2DF9DB1C2F69A@paulal73q2sjay>
Message-ID: <BLU105-W2581E0B09FA9D36244C121ED320@phx.gbl>

Thanks for the pictures Paul.  And to Randall for the tip.  I'm sure once I
get under the car with the sway bar I'll be able to decide which of these two
ways to go -- either angle brackets extending forward from the radiator mounts
or brackets bolted to the bumper mounts.

> From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com
> To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; jr468 at hotmail.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] Sway bar mounting on a small mouth TR3
> Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 16:41:21 -0800
>
> I used the addco sway bar on my 56 TR3. I made custom center brackets out
> of some angle iron and bolted them under the radiator mounting bolts.
>
> paulw
> Torrance, CA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randall" tr3driver at ca.rr.com

> > BTW, I don't believe the issue with the early bumper mounts is
necessarily
> > strength, as much as they simply don't offer any place to put the bar
> > mounts. If you were inclined that way, I suspect you could even make
> > brackets that would clamp to the early bumper mounts and in turn provide
a
> > flat place for the sway bar mounts. The forces involved aren't very
> > large.
> >
> > Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Thu Mar 11 07:15:02 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 09:15:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] unknown bolts for adjustable rollbar
References: <D82EF815F9EC41DEAD637CD6E1913460@OwnerPC>
	<6FF77EBDDDD541FB8CDAD76F76A93BCF@bboffice>
Message-ID: <5750DC639CF24CBCB1C8645B827BB09E@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

thanks Bill!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wbeech at flash.net>
To: "'Paul Dorsey'" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>; <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2010 12:29 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] unknown bolts for adjustable rollbar


> Those are the anchor bolts for the straps that hold your gas tank, should 
> be
> two more like it in the trunk just on the gas tank side of the rear
> partition.
>
> I am no roll-bar expert, and hopefully someone will chime in here, but I
> should think that you would go all the way through to the frame to anchor 
> it
> securely.
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey
> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 7:06 PM
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] unknown bolts for adjustable rollbar
>
> Long time, no see.
>
> I am installing an adjustable rollbar on my 60 TR3A.  'Adjustable' because 
> I
> don't really know where on the back shelf to position and mount it.  It's
> heavy (schedule 40) and narrow and by 'trial' mounting it thisway I'll be
> able to decide it's position and heighth.  I used 6 pieces of
> particle-board-shelves (cheap and heavy) with 3 of them under the feet of
> the rollbar and 3 immediatly on-top of the feet.  This seems to hold it
> steady (mind you, I've not driven this car...yet!).  Of course, I need to
> mount it to something.
>     On the rear of the shelf and almost in the boot, is of course, the gas
> tank.  On the front side of the tank are two brackets (pedestals) that 
> hold
> the tank up.  They are welded to the shelf, howesver, they also have a 
> bolt
> and welded nuts attached.  WHAT ARE THESE TWO BOLTS FOR?  They are 7/16"
> fine thread.  These might temporaily anchor my adjustable rollbar.
>
> Thanks, Paul Dorsey             60 TR3A
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Mar 11 10:37:22 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 10:37:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Seat Questions
In-Reply-To: <1862361429.3488861268287953188.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1DDA0D65-FEE2-4D59-9230-C86823D5EDCD@genfiniti.com>
	<1862361429.3488861268287953188.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003110937u63d9617fh418c7a4a25a5b061@mail.gmail.com>

Totally different seat from the TR3A.

The seats are 'handed' and the straighter side goes towards the tunnel.

I made my own straps from webbing obtained at a local fabric store.  I
still had the old straps so I reused the hooks, made the straps a bit
on the short side then they were very taut when stretched into
position.

Moss (and likely others) list a seat webbing kit (p/n 681-330) no idea
exactly what it includes.

Geo

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Mar 11 11:33:08 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 13:33:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Water pump housing inlet/outlet question
Message-ID: <FB2761D656834AB787E946F53F4CC064@CarlPC>

I have two water pump housing available to install on my TR3 engine.

Everything is the same except the opening on the one that is on top has two
different opening sizes:  3/8" & 5/8".  Which one is correct?

Seems to me that the more flow the better, but I have been wrong before.

Thanks
Carl
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(I need to update my pictures; 11/27/09

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 11 12:35:45 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 11:35:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] Water pump housing inlet/outlet question
In-Reply-To: <FB2761D656834AB787E946F53F4CC064@CarlPC>
References: <FB2761D656834AB787E946F53F4CC064@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <13591B09760642FEBD695E81A08D08BB@jdnet.deere.com>

> Everything is the same except the opening on the one that is 
> on top has two different opening sizes:  3/8" & 5/8".  Which 
> one is correct?

That would be the opening for the bypass line (short hose to the thermostat
housing), correct?

IIRC, the larger hole was found on the TR3 engines.  They made it smaller
later, to force more water to flow through the radiator.  Lots of folks add
even more restriction, for the same reason.  At the moment, I've got mine
totally blocked (and a hole through the thermostat so some water always
flows through the radiator).

Given the choice, I'd probably go for the smaller opening.

-- Randall  

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 11 14:15:36 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 13:15:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 handbrake gator
Message-ID: <390135.19463.qm@web113302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

the rubber gator and metal brackets go on first, then the carpet goes over top?
just having a little trouble with the fit
thanks
Frank

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Mar 11 14:38:00 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 16:38:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Water pump housing inlet/outlet question
In-Reply-To: <13591B09760642FEBD695E81A08D08BB@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <FB2761D656834AB787E946F53F4CC064@CarlPC>
	<13591B09760642FEBD695E81A08D08BB@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <14128BEBC4F24B6E84A2870F064AAF3C@CarlPC>

Thank you.  That is the one I put on the engine and then found the other.

C
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Water pump housing inlet/outlet question


>> Everything is the same except the opening on the one that is
>> on top has two different opening sizes:  3/8" & 5/8".  Which
>> one is correct?
>
> That would be the opening for the bypass line (short hose to the 
> thermostat
> housing), correct?
>
> IIRC, the larger hole was found on the TR3 engines.  They made it smaller
> later, to force more water to flow through the radiator.  Lots of folks 
> add
> even more restriction, for the same reason.  At the moment, I've got mine
> totally blocked (and a hole through the thermostat so some water always
> flows through the radiator).
>
> Given the choice, I'd probably go for the smaller opening.
>
> -- Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Mar 11 14:51:48 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 16:51:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Distributor bits
Message-ID: <763BCBD3A02646D79D4152CABDF3B7E3@CarlPC>

For late TR3A

looking for the p/n 503678 plate, clamp distributor   the one I have is pretty
beat up and the clamp doesn't hold the distributor in place.  I may have
another in a box and will look this weekend but - does anyone have a spare?
Also, it is fairly 'soft' so it may be that I can just straighten and replace
the bolt/nyloc.

looking for a vacuum unit for the same - p/n 503697.  The threaded rod/knob is
bent on mine and although I haven't tried adjusting (it does turn a bit) I am
concerned that it will not function as designed.  Again, I may have one but
does anyone have a spare?

Also, the clamp has residue of a gasket on it, but none of the manuals or
parts diagrams indicate that there should be one.  Anyone know?   wouldn't be
hard to make but ...

Thanks again
C

From mathews at uga.edu  Thu Mar 11 15:07:21 2010
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 17:07:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Interesting Web Site
Message-ID: <4B996999.5010801@uga.edu>

Folks,

In my machine tool course this quart, we use some info from the 
Wisc-Online web site. The site is full of auto tech info and here is the 
web page for the auto stuff:  
http://www.wisc-online.com/ListObjects.aspx  There are even reviews you 
can take after you've looked at some of the "courses".

Access is open and you do not even have to register.

Doug

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 11 15:12:35 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 14:12:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] Distributor bits
In-Reply-To: <763BCBD3A02646D79D4152CABDF3B7E3@CarlPC>
References: <763BCBD3A02646D79D4152CABDF3B7E3@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <5B7FF787BEED43D3B8D7F7D5E4CE5A1A@jdnet.deere.com>

> looking for the p/n 503678 plate, clamp distributor   the one 
> I have is pretty
> beat up and the clamp doesn't hold the distributor in place.  

Check your distributor body carefully.  There is a lip that the plate is
supposed to grab, and that lip is frequently broken (due to overtightening).
If the lip is broken, the clamp isn't going to work.

> Also, it is fairly 'soft' so it may be that I can just 
> straighten and replace the bolt/nyloc.

Should be a plain square nut, not a nyloc.

> Also, the clamp has residue of a gasket on it, but none of 
> the manuals

No gasket needed here.

-- Randall  

From hdrider570 at att.net  Thu Mar 11 15:14:12 2010
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 14:14:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Water pump housing inlet/outlet question
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1268334001.8489.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <214307.40507.qm@web83803.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

The water bypass hose nipple on the water pump housing got smaller and smaller during the production of the TR3 TR4 series.  Generally you want the smaller sized opening as more water runs through the radiator that way.  

Many owners add small washers in the bypass hose to restrict the flow of water through the by pass circuit to help solve overheating problems.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Mar 11 15:36:40 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 17:36:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 handbrake gator
In-Reply-To: <390135.19463.qm@web113302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <390135.19463.qm@web113302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <82E455BE15D04088AD4E5DF489875AD8@CarlPC>

That is the way mine was/is.
Carl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 4:15 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 handbrake gator


> the rubber gator and metal brackets go on first, then the carpet goes over 
> top?
> just having a little trouble with the fit
> thanks
> Frank

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Thu Mar 11 16:17:41 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 18:17:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Seat Questions
Message-ID: <4B997A15.4000908@gmail.com>

> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 10:37:22 -0700
> From: Geo Hahn<ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Seat Questions
> To: Triumphs<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID:
> 	<3b0049461003110937u63d9617fh418c7a4a25a5b061 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
>
> Moss (and likely others) list a seat webbing kit (p/n 681-330) no idea
> exactly what it includes.
>
> Geo
>    
Just got one of Moss's webbing kits in the mail today.  Includes a roll 
of the webbing material and all the hardware for one seat for about 
$40.  You cut the webbing to length and then assemble the hooks.  Looks 
easy, but I guess I have to pick the stiffness I want.  My originals 
were in one piece after 45 years, but they didn't seem to provide much 
support and I didn't want to trust them and then have to disassemble the 
seats later.

TRF said they didn't have the straps.

Ben....

-- 
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Mar 11 17:36:07 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 19:36:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Distributor bits
In-Reply-To: <763BCBD3A02646D79D4152CABDF3B7E3@CarlPC>
References: <763BCBD3A02646D79D4152CABDF3B7E3@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <01F8B707D2964998BC29B521D99CC3F2@CarlPC>

I was able to fix the clamp - will need to get an appropriate bolt/nut to 
replace the bent one- but otherwise it works.  (I used a long machine 
screw/nut and was able to tighten it down.)

The vacuum unit is toast. BPNW has them listed on their site.  But - I 
vaguely remembered a thread about distributor issues when installed on 86mm 
engines.  A search of the archives found:
Re: TR3A ignition timing
      from [Thomas Meise]

      To:  drew at pixar.com, triumphs at Autox.Team.Net
      Subject:  Re: TR3A ignition timing
      From:  Thomas Meise <tm at mk3.teuto.de>
      Date:  Tue, 14 Apr 1998 18:15:03 +0200

At 15:09 13.04.98 -0700, drew at pixar.com wrote:
>
>
>Well, looks like the shocks are looking good and I'm thinking about 
>tackling
>(playing around with) the ignition timing. Does anyone know what the dwell
>angle for a 3A is? The manual says the point gap should be set to .015"
>but I've never felt comfortable with feeler gages. I seem to recall that
>the manual say to set the timing to 0 deg. BTDC and then to move the
>vacuum advance venier one mark BTDC which should yield 4 deg BTDC. Anyone
>have any other suggestions for setting the timing? There's been a bit
>of discussion on just advancing the timing until you get pinging under
>load above 3000 RPM. Is this what people refer to as setting the timing
>"by ear?" Is there a tutorial around anywhere on setting the timing?
>
>Thanks for any info,
>Drew
>
>--
>Drew Rogge
>drew at pixar.com

The dwell angle should be 60 +- 3.

First thing to do is to make sure that the right distributor is fitted.
The ignition timing depends on type of your engine specification. In case
of an 86 mm engine the summary of static, advance due centrifugal control 
and
vacuum unit should not exceed 26-27 degrees.

If there4s a wrong distributor fitted to your engine don4t wonder if it
doesn4t work. The distributor for the 83 mm engine has a advance timing due 
weights and
springs of max. 15 degrees. That4s  max. 30 degrees timing on the 
crankshaft.
You must add static timing (4 degrees) and the advance due vacuum unit (
max. 15 degrees). That4s too much advance for an 86 mm engine .

The Lucas Part No. for 83 mm engine: 40403, 40480, 40698, 40783, 40850
                       86 mm       : 40735, 40795




So - how do I determine 1) if I have the right dizzy and 2) if not a source? 
Then I can re-think the vacuum unit.

Thanks again
Carl

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Mar 11 18:02:51 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 20:02:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Distributor bits
In-Reply-To: <01F8B707D2964998BC29B521D99CC3F2@CarlPC>
References: <763BCBD3A02646D79D4152CABDF3B7E3@CarlPC>
	<01F8B707D2964998BC29B521D99CC3F2@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <201003112002.51296.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday 11 March 2010 07:36:07 pm Carl TR wrote:
> I was able to fix the clamp - will need to get an appropriate bolt/nut to
> replace the bent one- but otherwise it works.  (I used a long machine
> screw/nut and was able to tighten it down.)
> 
> The vacuum unit is toast. BPNW has them listed on their site.  But - I
> vaguely remembered a thread about distributor issues when installed on 86mm
> engines.  A search of the archives found:
> Re: TR3A ignition timing
>       from [Thomas Meise]
Carl,

If you are having trouble with your distributor, any part of it, you can send 
it to Advanced Distributors and Jeff will rebuild it better than new for around 
100 $. He will replace any worn part and install a new vacuum unit if 
required.

I had him do my distributor on my 72 TR6 and it came back better than new and 
he micro polishes the body to a mirror shine,

After my 6 is done I am going to be shipping both my 3 and 4 distributors to 
him. He comes very highly recommended!

The link is: http://www.advanceddistributors.com/index.htm

Bob

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Mar 11 18:10:48 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 18:10:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Water pump housing inlet/outlet question
In-Reply-To: <214307.40507.qm@web83803.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.3.1268334001.8489.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<214307.40507.qm@web83803.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003111710h3ee999d4h278a265984226044@mail.gmail.com>

On 3/11/10, Q <hdrider570 at att.net> wrote:
> ...Many owners add small washers in the bypass hose to restrict the flow of
> water through the by pass circuit to help solve overheating problems.

Or a 3/4" copper pipe cap with a 3/16" hole drilled in it:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bypasshose.JPG

Geo

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Mar 11 18:17:56 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 20:17:56 EST
Subject: [TR] Water pump housing inlet/outlet question
Message-ID: <80ecf.7cd47c19.38caf044@aol.com>

Hi Carl;
 
I can't tell you which one is better, but I can tell you of some advice I  
was given reference flow. If the flow is too fast going through the 
radiator, I  understand the coolant will have the opportunity to cool sufficiently.  
Therefore, higher flow is not always the best. As an example, an engine 
that has  the thermostat removed will often run hotter because the flow is too 
fast, as  the 'stat, even when it's allowing coolant through, does slow it 
down a  bit.
 
Sorry if that's complicating things.
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Thu Mar 11 18:18:20 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 19:18:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Distributor bits
Message-ID: <9853457.265056.1268356700804.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net>

I also sent my unit to Advanced.  He did a fantastic job, looked brand new, and provided me a superior cap for a small charge.  My total was less than $120, installed the unit, and the car started on the first start.  Hit it with a light, made some adjustments, and all was well.

He does fantastic work, highly recommended.........Craig

1972 Triumph TR6

On Mar 11, 2010, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote: 

On Thursday 11 March 2010 07:36:07 pm Carl TR wrote:
> I was able to fix the clamp - will need to get an appropriate bolt/nut to
> replace the bent one- but otherwise it works. (I used a long machine
> screw/nut and was able to tighten it down.)
> 
> The vacuum unit is toast. BPNW has them listed on their site. But - I
> vaguely remembered a thread about distributor issues when installed on 86mm
> engines. A search of the archives found:
> Re: TR3A ignition timing
> from [Thomas Meise]
Carl,

If you are having trouble with your distributor, any part of it, you can send 
it to Advanced Distributors and Jeff will rebuild it better than new for around 
100 $. He will replace any worn part and install a new vacuum unit if 
required.

I had him do my distributor on my 72 TR6 and it came back better than new and 
he micro polishes the body to a mirror shine,

After my 6 is done I am going to be shipping both my 3 and 4 distributors to 
him. He comes very highly recommended!

The link is: http://www.advanceddistributors.com/index.htm

Bob

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 11 18:30:08 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 17:30:08 -0800
Subject: [TR] Distributor bits
In-Reply-To: <01F8B707D2964998BC29B521D99CC3F2@CarlPC>
References: <763BCBD3A02646D79D4152CABDF3B7E3@CarlPC>
	<01F8B707D2964998BC29B521D99CC3F2@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <59B14E9DE3E14D9C959AAB872780D530@jdnet.deere.com>

> So - how do I determine 1) if I have the right dizzy

Depends on what you mean by "right".  None of the stock factory distributors
will be optimum for the witch's brew they sell as gasoline here in the US
... Triumph never heard of "oxygenated fuel" but that is what we are stuck
with.  Good luck finding that 95 octane fuel they specified, too!  So if you
want to squeeze every last bhp & mpg from your engine, you need to have
someone like Jeff Palya (I think that's the right name, someone will correct
me if I'm wrong) recurve your distributor.

If, OTOH, you just want it to run well, then any of the stock distributors
will work well enough.  Listen for any knock or ping, and either retard the
timing or use higher octane fuel to correct the problem.  Note that this
procedure is mentioned in the driver's handbook.

The distributor number should be marked on the housing, but of course that
is no guarantee that the components have not been changed over the years.
Again, to be sure it's "right", you need to have someone actually test it
for performance, not just check the numbers stamped on the side.

I don't know what is available today, but a few years back the advance
module with the threaded fitting was NLA.  So I took mine to a local
full-line auto parts store, that was able to send it out for rebuilding.
Cost was about 3/4 that of new unit, but it looked exactly correct.  And it
still works today.

-- Randall  

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Mar 11 18:40:39 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 18:40:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 handbrake gator
In-Reply-To: <390135.19463.qm@web113302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <390135.19463.qm@web113302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B7E4B1B076B74ECEB7C085BB355126A3@bboffice>

Yep, that is the way it is on mine.  The carpet is all trimmed out to go
around all the rubber.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 2:16 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 handbrake gator

the rubber gator and metal brackets go on first, then the carpet goes over
top?
just having a little trouble with the fit thanks Frank

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Thu Mar 11 20:19:50 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:19:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Distributor bits
References: <9853457.265056.1268356700804.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <2A1AEEA6CA7246E7B91B3B41172608EC@OwnerPC>

Hello,
I know only a little bit about the TR3A.  I've been forever restoring mine, 
but, haven't ever had a chance to drive it on a road- ever!  I say that to 
tell you that I don't know much.

I was told the following by some experts, but, I hadn't heard others 
verifying it.  So, I don't know how correct it is.  Maybe you can tell me.

Also, it makes sense.  Here it is:

The original distributor was set up to ignite the 95 octane, 1147cc motor. 
However, many folks have upped the cc's to over 1200.  Thus a new 
distributor is needed.
Is this true?  My motor has a newer distributor on it, but, I haven't really 
tested it yet.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <thenicholls at verizon.net>
To: <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Distributor bits


>I also sent my unit to Advanced.  He did a fantastic job, looked brand new, 
>and provided me a superior cap for a small charge.  My total was less than 
>$120, installed the unit, and the car started on the first start.  Hit it 
>with a light, made some adjustments, and all was well.
>
> He does fantastic work, highly recommended.........Craig
>
> 1972 Triumph TR6
>
> On Mar 11, 2010, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>
> On Thursday 11 March 2010 07:36:07 pm Carl TR wrote:
>> I was able to fix the clamp - will need to get an appropriate bolt/nut to
>> replace the bent one- but otherwise it works. (I used a long machine
>> screw/nut and was able to tighten it down.)
>>
>> The vacuum unit is toast. BPNW has them listed on their site. But - I
>> vaguely remembered a thread about distributor issues when installed on 
>> 86mm
>> engines. A search of the archives found:
>> Re: TR3A ignition timing
>> from [Thomas Meise]
> Carl,
>
> If you are having trouble with your distributor, any part of it, you can 
> send
> it to Advanced Distributors and Jeff will rebuild it better than new for 
> around
> 100 $. He will replace any worn part and install a new vacuum unit if
> required.
>
> I had him do my distributor on my 72 TR6 and it came back better than new 
> and
> he micro polishes the body to a mirror shine,
>
> After my 6 is done I am going to be shipping both my 3 and 4 distributors 
> to
> him. He comes very highly recommended!
>
> The link is: http://www.advanceddistributors.com/index.htm
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul at bellsouth.net

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Thu Mar 11 21:12:45 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:12:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 turn signal flasher
Message-ID: <0FFC0A7E-73CD-42BB-9096-D56D65A2AB53@cox.net>

I have converted my 60 TR3A to an Advance Auto Wire system a couple years ago
& love it.  I have been cleaning up my car for this Sunday's Phoenix Wheels of
Britain car show & thought I would put the voltage regulator, the "massive"
two fuse system, & turn signal flasher back in the engine compartment with the
wires leading out to nowhere.  The only thing I am missing is the flasher with
the little 90 degree bracket.  I do not even care if it works.

Does anyone know if I can buy one of those flasher at my local auto parts
store??

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ
1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 11 21:46:30 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 20:46:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 turn signal flasher
In-Reply-To: <0FFC0A7E-73CD-42BB-9096-D56D65A2AB53@cox.net>
References: <0FFC0A7E-73CD-42BB-9096-D56D65A2AB53@cox.net>
Message-ID: <099d01cac19e$fc06d460$0301a8c0@randall>

> Does anyone know if I can buy one of those flasher at my 
> local auto parts store??

Not that bears much resemblance to the original. 

If you are lucky, you might find one in a round can; but it won't have the
mounting tab and probably will be much shorter.

Most of them are plastic and/or rectangular, these days.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 11 21:50:29 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 20:50:29 -0800
Subject: [TR] Distributor bits
In-Reply-To: <2A1AEEA6CA7246E7B91B3B41172608EC@OwnerPC>
References: <9853457.265056.1268356700804.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net>
	<2A1AEEA6CA7246E7B91B3B41172608EC@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <099e01cac19f$8a446760$0301a8c0@randall>

> The original distributor was set up to ignite the 95 octane, 
> 1147cc motor. 
> However, many folks have upped the cc's to over 1200.  Thus a new 
> distributor is needed.
> Is this true?  

No, not really.  Like I said before, there is some performance to be gained
by carefully matching the advance curve to your specific engine; but pretty
much anything will work well enough, provided you avoid preignition (aka
knock or ping) by either retarding the spark or using higher octane fuel.

I've covered a bunch of miles with 87 mm liners & the stock dizzy.

Randall

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Mar 12 01:22:13 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:22:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] Distributor bits
In-Reply-To: <2A1AEEA6CA7246E7B91B3B41172608EC@OwnerPC>
References: <9853457.265056.1268356700804.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net>
	<2A1AEEA6CA7246E7B91B3B41172608EC@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <a06240802c7bfa7568260@[192.168.2.2]>

Not entirely true ... original engine was 1991 cc , the TR3B was 
upped  to about 2200 cc Check the number on the bottom of your 
distributor,  if it is DM2 that is for the TR2, but will probably 
work, if 26D  maybe 25D not sure without looking then you are good to 
go ... Works fine with 91 octane.

Good Luck


>Hello,
>I know only a little bit about the TR3A.  I've been forever 
>restoring mine, but, haven't ever had a chance to drive it on a 
>road- ever!  I say that to tell you that I don't know much.
>
>I was told the following by some experts, but, I hadn't heard others 
>verifying it.  So, I don't know how correct it is.  Maybe you can 
>tell me.
>
>Also, it makes sense.  Here it is:
>
>The original distributor was set up to ignite the 95 octane, 1147cc 
>motor. However, many folks have upped the cc's to over 1200.  Thus a 
>new distributor is needed.
>Is this true?  My motor has a newer distributor on it, but, I 
>haven't really tested it yet.
>
>Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Mar 12 09:01:29 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 09:01:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 turn signal flasher
In-Reply-To: <099d01cac19e$fc06d460$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <0FFC0A7E-73CD-42BB-9096-D56D65A2AB53@cox.net>
	<099d01cac19e$fc06d460$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003120801j3339590cgdf21a396d618f49c@mail.gmail.com>

John --

Not any help for Saturday, but I have one that came off my TR3 when
fitted a correct flasher with screw connectors.

It is the metal can, same size as the original, spade connectors, but
doesn't have the metal tab (and doesn't say LUCAS or DO NOT DROP).

There is a springy clip that can be attached to the firewall to hold
it though JBWeld might work to attach a tab as original.

Let me know if you want it and how big a hurry you're in.  I'll be at
the BEAT next month if that works.

Geo


On 3/11/10, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> Does anyone know if I can buy one of those flasher at my
>> local auto parts store??
>
> Not that bears much resemblance to the original.

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Mar 12 14:06:19 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 16:06:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Renkenberger 6-Tech Manual Download
Message-ID: <E0A11A5BE67A42538A45F54B58095B4C@BobPC>

Over the past few weeks, James Matos, Len Renkenberger, Paul Rego and I have
been working together to make Len's 6-Tech Manual available for download at
no cost. Paul and I have agreed to host the manual on our respective sites
and have had a number of 6-Packers do some test downloads for us. The test
downloads have been successful so it's time to roll this out to the 6-Pack
Forum, 6-Pack Mail List, British Car Forum and the Triumph Mail List.

There are a couple of download options so folks with high speed as well as
low speed connections should be able to get what they need. There are also
very specific directions on the steps to take to save these files to your
hard drive.

The first option is for those with DSL/Cable and is a download of the
complete manual at 36 MB and a supplement at 16 MB. With a high speed
connection, the 36 MB file should take less then 5 minutes.

The other option for those with a slower connection is to download the
individual sections that range in size from 1 MB to 5 MB.

If you find that downloads are taking longer then expected, please try again
at another time.

Len has been very gracious in letting us post his manual and the only thing
being asked is that you abide by the copyright for his material.

You will find the files available here (http://www.74tr6.com/6-tech.htm) and
here (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/6-tech-Manuals.htm)

James Matos, Len Renkenberger, Paul Rego & Bob Danielson 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 12 15:28:03 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:28:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] Distributor bits
In-Reply-To: <a06240802c7bfa7568260@[192.168.2.2]>
References: <9853457.265056.1268356700804.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net><2A1AEEA6CA7246E7B91B3B41172608EC@OwnerPC>
	<a06240802c7bfa7568260@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <87D042085ADD45EB8FC7F713032210AA@jdnet.deere.com>

> Not entirely true ... original engine was 1991 cc , the TR3B 
> was upped  to about 2200 cc 

Well, if you're going to get picky about it, 86mm liners (giving a
displacement of 2138 cc) were available as a factory option (or dealer
retrofit) from fairly early in the TR3 run.  And even the TR4 was available
with the 83mm liners, again as an option.  

Even the "service oversize" 87mm liners only get you to 2188cc.  To actually
hit 2200, you need the 89mm liners available as racing parts (eg British
Frame and Engine) (which actually take you to 2290cc).


> if it is DM2 that is for the TR2,

The DM2 was used for all TR3, and well into TR3A production.  Apparently the
DM2 and 25D4 units were actually used interchangeably until the early TR4
(according to Lucas documentation anyway); as some of them had exactly the
same specifications.  For example, model 40735 (which is a DM2) is listed
for 63 TR4.  Model 40795 (which is a 25D4) was introduced in 1962 with
exactly the same specifications.

-- Randall  

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Mar 12 15:38:54 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 15:38:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Distributor bits
In-Reply-To: <87D042085ADD45EB8FC7F713032210AA@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <9853457.265056.1268356700804.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net><2A1AEEA6CA7246E7B91B3B41172608EC@OwnerPC>
	<a06240802c7bfa7568260@[192.168.2.2]>
	<87D042085ADD45EB8FC7F713032210AA@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <4B9AC27E.6070907@bradakis.com>

Randall wrote:
>  And even the TR4 was available
> with the 83mm liners, again as an option.  
>
>   

Yes, for those who wanted to keep their car in an under 2 litre racing 
class.

mjb.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Mar 12 16:46:32 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 15:46:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper adjustment
Message-ID: <699588.10016.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

i checked that the wiper spindles on my tr3 where working and self parking.
i
then fitted my wiper arms and blades.
with the blade at approximately
horizontal position on the windscreen.
turned on the wipers and they go across
the windscreen ok but on the return stroke they went way past the horizontal,
off the windscreen and on to where the lower windscreen to scuttle
weatherstrip would be if i had one. they then want to complete the cycle and
self park at the horizontal position again.
how do i adjust please?
thanks
Frank Fisher 

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Mar 12 17:19:56 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 17:19:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper adjustment
In-Reply-To: <699588.10016.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <699588.10016.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <749C3151370240EF913692E210D01C64@bboffice>

Frank,
If you find out let me know, I put my wipers on today after rebuilding the
motor and a new gear in the wheelbox.  You get some adjustment from the gear
cover so that they will park in the proper spot but mine drop down about
2-3" from the park position when they are running, much as you have
described.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 4:47 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper adjustment

i checked that the wiper spindles on my tr3 where working and self parking.
i
then fitted my wiper arms and blades.
with the blade at approximately
horizontal position on the windscreen.
turned on the wipers and they go across
the windscreen ok but on the return stroke they went way past the
horizontal, off the windscreen and on to where the lower windscreen to
scuttle weatherstrip would be if i had one. they then want to complete the
cycle and self park at the horizontal position again.
how do i adjust please?
thanks
Frank Fisher 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 12 17:20:40 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 16:20:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper adjustment
In-Reply-To: <699588.10016.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <699588.10016.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <30B489038DA94493BC7E79D24F0FE47E@jdnet.deere.com>

> how do i adjust please?

Flip the wiper arms up so they don't hit anything; loosen the small screws
in the top of the wiper motor gear box, and then turn the dome until the
arms park at the limit of travel.  Tighten the screws, lower the arms, and
Robert is your family member.

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 12 17:21:37 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 16:21:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper adjustment
References: <699588.10016.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> 
Message-ID: <4DA18E169218419F9C53668F1C97F60C@jdnet.deere.com>

> Tighten the screws, lower the arms, and Robert is your family member.

Oops, forgot to mention, you'll need to reposition the arms on the spindles.

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 12 21:57:03 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 20:57:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper adjustment
In-Reply-To: <749C3151370240EF913692E210D01C64@bboffice>
References: <699588.10016.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<749C3151370240EF913692E210D01C64@bboffice>
Message-ID: <0c2601cac269$a0448480$0301a8c0@randall>

> If you find out let me know, I put my wipers on today after 
> rebuilding the
> motor and a new gear in the wheelbox.  You get some 
> adjustment from the gear
> cover so that they will park in the proper spot but mine drop 
> down about
> 2-3" from the park position when they are running, much as you have
> described.

Just in case I wasn't clear before; first you set the park switch so they
park at the limit of travel.  This is best done before installing the arms,
by just watching the shafts turn.

Then with the shafts parked as far as they will turn, install the arms so
they are in the proper position just slightly above the edge of the
windshield.

Randall

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Sat Mar 13 06:15:22 2010
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 08:15:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] GT6 Detroit Area
Message-ID: <000c01cac2af$3e9778a0$bbc669e0$@net>

All,

Was on my way to a Detroit Triumph event yesterday afternoon (Friday 03-12),
when what do I spy, but a GT6 shell and bonnet on a trailer. Was wondering
if
it was someone on these lists, or another DTSC member?

Doug

--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Mar 13 15:09:54 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:09:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper adjustment
In-Reply-To: <30B489038DA94493BC7E79D24F0FE47E@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <699588.10016.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<30B489038DA94493BC7E79D24F0FE47E@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <476471.62150.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

worked a charm
looks like i have a new uncle!
thanks
Frank
________________________________
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, March 12, 2010 4:20:40 PM
Subject: Re: [TR]
TR3 wiper adjustment

> how do i adjust please?

Flip the wiper arms up so
they don't hit anything; loosen the small screws
in the top of the wiper motor
gear box, and then turn the dome until the
arms park at the limit of travel. 
Tighten the screws, lower the arms, and
Robert is your family member.

--
Randall  

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From carlsereda at aol.com  Sat Mar 13 15:18:02 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:18:02 -0800
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 95
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1268506801.15872.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C9B909BF.DFFE.4323.83BF.9A32E2D304C8@aol.com>

Thanks Bob, James, Len, and Paul for sharing Len's great document on TR6
maintenance and improvements. 
Applicable in a couple areas to the older TR4.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

Over the past few weeks, James Matos, Len Renkenberger, Paul Rego and I (Bob
Danielson) have
been working together to make Len's 6-Tech Manual available for download at
no cost. Paul and I have agreed to host the manual on our respective sites
and have had a number of 6-Packers do some test downloads for us. The test
downloads have been successful so it's time to roll this out to the 6-Pack
Forum, 6-Pack Mail List, British Car Forum and the Triumph Mail List.
http://www.74tr6.com/6-tech.htm

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Mar 13 20:16:17 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 22:16:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bosch alternator
Message-ID: <710DDD2AEA8246AB926480648772B8D5@Edscomputer>

List,

Lucas unit on the TR250 is on its last legs, so I purchased a Bosch unit for a
78-80 Ford Fiesta. No wiring diagram in the box. None on the VTR web site.

Can anyone furnish either a schematic or instructions on what to connect
where?

Thanks,

Ed Woods

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Mar 13 20:24:14 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 22:24:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] a study in old grease, minimal LBC content
Message-ID: <4B9C108E.12565.7DE7B08@localhost>

Today it was raining cats and dogs so I decided to clean up an old 
bicycle, a Peugeot U08 I bought new in 1971.  Back in the old days it 
got ridden and cleaned up regularly.  Sometime in the late 70's I'd 
upgraded wheels, crank, derailleurs, but when I got a good deal on a 
much better Raleigh Gran Sport frame (only $10!) I parked the Peugeot 
and pulled off the upgraded wheels and crank.  So I had last worked 
on it at least 20 years ago, even though I always intended to do 
something with it eventually.

The bearings of the original rear wheel were tight and grinding.  I 
wouldn't have left it in that state unless I just threw it together 
to avoid losing parts, something I wouldn't normally do.  I pulled 
the bearings out and found that the old grease was nearly solid, a 
gummy mass like dried rubber cement.  Hmm, in contrast the dedicated 
Rampart (a Raleigh name) bicycle grease I had put on some parts was 
soft and very much more grease-like.  And of course the tub of said 
grease was like new despite its age.

Of course bicycle parts aren't subject to the loads or heat of car 
bearings or suspension parts.  Bicycle grease is therefore a 
different animal from automotive grease.  I can't say what I would 
have packed the bearings with way back then.  Most likely it was some 
automotive variety.  The thought that old grease like that might be 
doing duty in a trunion is not comforting.  Glad I've been lubing 
them regularly.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Mar 13 20:55:00 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 22:55:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bosch alternator
References: <710DDD2AEA8246AB926480648772B8D5@Edscomputer>
	<354a1781003131945j61754eacwa6cf7d781750e75e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <45633DB013134312A07A43B4BC69B2E7@Edscomputer>

F14,

I have the Masters book. It does not give specific connections to the Bosch
unit. I really need to know what the following 2 terminals on the Bosch unit
are:

1. D+
2. +

I'm sure one is for the indicator lamp, the other for alternator exitation. I
just don't know which is which.

The two large connected terminals go to the battery.

F1

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Mar 13 20:57:14 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 22:57:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator
Message-ID: <AB4BB87138BE44A6B9425DE5B6AA3C3D@Edscomputer>

List,

Specifically, what are terminal "D+" and "+"?

Ed Woods

From peter at nosimport.com  Sat Mar 13 21:12:49 2010
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 22:12:49 -0600
Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator
In-Reply-To: <AB4BB87138BE44A6B9425DE5B6AA3C3D@Edscomputer>
References: <AB4BB87138BE44A6B9425DE5B6AA3C3D@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <201003132012795.SM06964@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Ed, The Bosch Fiesta alternator uses the 3 prong connector wired the 
same as the later TR6s.  If your TR250 had either the 2 plug 5 spade 
connectors, or the external regulator alternator, you need to look 
for the instruction to go to the newer 1 plug, 3 spade connector.

I don't have any diagrams at hand, but the 2 large spade terminals in 
the Bosch and later Lucas alternators are B+

         Peter C
---
At 09:57 PM 3/13/2010, Ed Woods wrote:
>List,
>
>Specifically, what are terminal "D+" and "+"?
>
>Ed Woods

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Mar 13 21:43:41 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 21:43:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] a study in old grease, minimal LBC content
In-Reply-To: <4B9C108E.12565.7DE7B08@localhost>
References: <4B9C108E.12565.7DE7B08@localhost>
Message-ID: <4B9C697D.4090406@bradakis.com>

Oddly enough, I have an old Peugeot road bike from probably the late
60s.  Any day now I'll get it cleaned up and ridable again.  The fellow
I bought it from converted it to a 15 speed to give him some low gearing
for "rough stuff" as he was doing mountain biking before it became
mountain biking.  He was one of my sewing machine operators back in
the ancient days of Alpine Adventure.  I used to make the world's best
haulbags, in case any of you are big wall climbers.

Anyway, your story about old grease setting up and becoming greaseless,
so to speak, is why I think Triumph wanted folks to use oil in the trunnions
and steering rack.  But with modern synthetic greases that stay greasy, I
have no qualms about using them in those applications rather than oil.

mjb.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 13 21:58:42 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:58:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator
In-Reply-To: <AB4BB87138BE44A6B9425DE5B6AA3C3D@Edscomputer>
References: <AB4BB87138BE44A6B9425DE5B6AA3C3D@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Specifically, what are terminal "D+" and "+"?

"D+" is generally the terminal that goes to the warning lamp on the dash.
The other side of the warning lamp should be wired to switched 12v.  Some,
although not all, alternators rely on the current through the warning lamp
to "get started" after you start the engine.

If it's a big terminal (or two) "+" would most likely be the output to the
battery, although my Bosch alternator has it marked "B+" instead of simply
"+".  Or if it is a smaller terminal, it's probably the "sense" input, which
should also be wired to the battery.

Randall

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Sun Mar 14 07:35:11 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 10:35:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oil "Mileage"
Message-ID: <20100314143532.118FA187647@autox.team.net>

G'Day List,

I searched the archives but didn't find anything (probably because I'm not
good at this type of searching!).

What kind of oil mileage should I expect from a 1974 engine with 95,000
miles on it.  I don't know if it was in any manner rebuilt.  If it was, it
probably was over a dozen years ago.  I've had the car coming up on three
years and the previous owner, who had the car for about ten years, said that
it wasn't rebuilt during his ownership.

TIA,
BobW
Montgomeryville, Pa.
1974 TR6

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Sun Mar 14 07:35:11 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 10:35:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Punch Set
Message-ID: <20100314143532.1C729187657@autox.team.net>

G'Day List,

I need to redo a commission plate.  Is there a punch set I can purchase for
this purpose that is not too expensive (manufacturers and where do I go to
buy)?  Would a machine shop be able to do this?

TIA,
BobW
Montgomeryville, Pa.
1974 TR6

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 14 07:56:38 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 07:56:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil "Mileage"
In-Reply-To: <20100314143532.118FA187647@autox.team.net>
References: <20100314143532.118FA187647@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0e1f01cac386$8d1de0e0$0301a8c0@randall>

> What kind of oil mileage should I expect from a 1974 engine 
> with 95,000
> miles on it.  

With that kind of mileage; could be almost anything.  Excessive oil
consumption is one (of many) indicators that it's time to rebuild the
engine, and 95000 would be a pretty good lifetime while some engines will go
twice that far.

I don't think the TR6 books give an "acceptable" limit; but considering that
they say to check it every 250 miles and add over a quart if it's low, I'd
say they allowed consumption to be pretty high.  The TR3 owner's manual has
a note to the effect that, when oil consumption exceeds 1 quart per 500
miles, you should use heavier oil <G>

Randall

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sun Mar 14 08:47:41 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 11:47:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Punch Set
References: <20100314143532.1C729187657@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <50E0F8DE03794FE1BA2FDE70DF2561CA@Alan>

I took mine to a trophy shop.

A jewler could probably do it also.

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Wanderer" <rawanderer at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 10:35 AM
Subject: [TR] Punch Set


> G'Day List,
>
> I need to redo a commission plate.  Is there a punch set I can purchase 
> for
> this purpose that is not too expensive (manufacturers and where do I go to
> buy)?  Would a machine shop be able to do this?
>
> TIA,
> BobW
> Montgomeryville, Pa.
> 1974 TR6

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Mar 14 09:20:39 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 12:20:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oil "Mileage"
In-Reply-To: <0e1f01cac386$8d1de0e0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <20100314143532.118FA187647@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4B9CD497.25594.AA55107@localhost>

On 14 Mar 2010 at 7:56, Randall wrote:

> The TR3 owner's manual has a note to the effect that, when
> oil consumption exceeds 1 quart per 500 miles, you should
> use heavier oil <G>

I suppose the heavier oil was recommended because tolerances would 
have opened up.  For what it's worth my experience from the old days 
(with Italian engines) was that going to a heavier oil would increase 
oil consumption even further, particularly if the consumption was due 
to worn rings.  The heavier components wouldn't be scavenged off the 
cylinder walls as completely as lighter components.  Then again, my 
memory burns more oil than it use to.  In any case, in the old days 
500 miles per quart was an expected worn-engine number, not great but 
not uncommon.

When you measure oil mileage in MPG's you know it's time for a 
rebuild.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Mar 14 09:34:03 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 11:34:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil "Mileage"
In-Reply-To: <4B9CD497.25594.AA55107@localhost>
References: <20100314143532.118FA187647@autox.team.net>
	<4B9CD497.25594.AA55107@localhost>
Message-ID: <204655B741A844F6AAD08CF46983B614@ranteer.local>

for another opinion, which may or may not be worth anything, we had a Ford 
Taurus SHO a number of years ago.  when it got up into the 70k mileage, it 
was burning a little oil.  we were advised to go to a heavier weight, which 
we did.  I think we went to 20w50.  the oil burning and consumption stopped. 

From cartr4a at ameritech.net  Sun Mar 14 09:50:07 2010
From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 09:50:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Punch Set
In-Reply-To: <20100314143532.1C729187657@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <258731.33404.qm@web80208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I had mine done at a local machine shop.

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Bob Wanderer <rawanderer at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Bob Wanderer <rawanderer at comcast.net>
Subject: [TR] Punch Set
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 9:35 AM


G'Day List,

I need to redo a commission plate.  Is there a punch set I can purchase for
this purpose that is not too expensive (manufacturers and where do I go to
buy)?  Would a machine shop be able to do this?

TIA,
BobW
Montgomeryville, Pa.
1974 TR6

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Mar 14 10:12:38 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 10:12:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Punch Set
In-Reply-To: <258731.33404.qm@web80208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <258731.33404.qm@web80208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B9D1906.2060501@gmail.com>

Jim wrote:
> I had mine done at a local machine shop.
>   

I just purchased the 1/8th inch punches I needed, clamped down the plate 
with a straight edge and used the straight edge to align the punches as 
I punched in the number myself.

No big deal and punches are cheap.

Teriann

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Mar 14 10:49:35 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 13:49:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Punch Set
In-Reply-To: <4B9D1906.2060501@gmail.com>
References: <258731.33404.qm@web80208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4B9D1906.2060501@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0C6AFE3FEA57438C9D111CFB2A005222@CarlPC>

Harbor Freight has them in the $8-9 (less if on sale) range.  Online at 
harborfreight.com search on number punch.

I'm sure some of the other tool sources has them as well.

Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: "triumph list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Punch Set


> Jim wrote:
>> I had mine done at a local machine shop.
>>
>
> I just purchased the 1/8th inch punches I needed, clamped down the plate 
> with a straight edge and used the straight edge to align the punches as I 
> punched in the number myself.
>
> No big deal and punches are cheap.
>
> Teriann

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Sun Mar 14 11:26:54 2010
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 11:26:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Metric conversion - Punch Set for Un-cut wilmot breeden UNION
 keys
Message-ID: <938920.45235.qm@web36802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

On the punch set, I have some un-cut FA wilmot breeden keys in T or rectangle head shape. I also have FP wilmot breeden keys in the round head. I can cut the key to any correct key code number, but unable to stamp the number on the key blank. I am looking for a source for stamping the key number on the blanks. For owners in the UK, any sources for stamping tools.

http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/conversions.html


Pete Groh (KeyGuy) Ellicott City MD USA  

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Mar 14 13:14:36 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 14:14:36 -0600
Subject: [TR] Punch Set
In-Reply-To: <0C6AFE3FEA57438C9D111CFB2A005222@CarlPC>
References: <258731.33404.qm@web80208.mail.mud.yahoo.com><4B9D1906.2060501@gmail.com>
	<0C6AFE3FEA57438C9D111CFB2A005222@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <7DD5CD0DB5694BF88648EB84BBD6B5AF@bboffice>

And remember, even if you are not a perfectionist... Neither was the guy at
Coventry who did it the first time, while the numbers on my original plate
are straight they are not on the line.   

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 11:50 AM
To: triumph list
Subject: Re: [TR] Punch Set

Harbor Freight has them in the $8-9 (less if on sale) range.  Online at
harborfreight.com search on number punch.

I'm sure some of the other tool sources has them as well.

Carl


----- Original Message -----
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: "triumph list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Punch Set


> Jim wrote:
>> I had mine done at a local machine shop.
>>
>
> I just purchased the 1/8th inch punches I needed, clamped down the plate 
> with a straight edge and used the straight edge to align the punches as I 
> punched in the number myself.
>
> No big deal and punches are cheap.
>
> Teriann

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Mar 14 13:31:19 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 13:31:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Punch Set
In-Reply-To: <7DD5CD0DB5694BF88648EB84BBD6B5AF@bboffice>
References: <258731.33404.qm@web80208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4B9D1906.2060501@gmail.com> <0C6AFE3FEA57438C9D111CFB2A005222@CarlPC>
	<7DD5CD0DB5694BF88648EB84BBD6B5AF@bboffice>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003141331r435d627ep8ef25022c0e4516c@mail.gmail.com>

I, too, used the stamps available from Harbor Freight. Made a guide
from a 2x4 that allowed spacing to match original and kept the punch
vertical.  Practiced on a Coke can:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/commission-stamp.JPG

Font was close except for the '3' as there are 2 ways to print a 3 and
TR used the other one.

Geo

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Mar 14 15:20:44 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 22:20:44 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Oil "Mileage"
In-Reply-To: <204655B741A844F6AAD08CF46983B614@ranteer.local>
References: <20100314143532.118FA187647@autox.team.net>
	<4B9CD497.25594.AA55107@localhost>
	<204655B741A844F6AAD08CF46983B614@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <72926.5702.qm@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

We were often asked this question by new owners in my days as a salesman for
S-T. With mineral oil being the only one available and with what the factory
(curiously) said was "considerate use" - meaning you didn't continuously 'red
line' the rev counter - oil consumption was anticipated as being one pint per
1000 miles at about 60,000 miles and always on a 20W/50. By that stage, the
piston rings would be less effective and the valve guides would be approaching
their life end. You'd certainly have been facing a full rebuild by 85,000.
These days with modern lubes and still using the latest spec mineral lube with
full oil and filter changes at 3000 mile intervals, I'd be looking at almost
doubling the figures above. My own 2500 injected engine was using less than
1/2 pint of oil per 1500 miles by the time I sold the car at 84,000 since the
rebuild - and most of that oil loss was from a pinhole leak on the front crank
oil seal which I never did get round to sorting.

Jonmac

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Mar 14 15:28:04 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 15:28:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Metric conversion - Punch Set for Un-cut wilmot breeden
 UNION keys
In-Reply-To: <938920.45235.qm@web36802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <938920.45235.qm@web36802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <150049.84494.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Pete Groh wrote:



> For owners in the UK, any sources for stamping tools.
>From what I've seen here over the years Pete, UK owners don't seem worried
about non Wilmot Breedon keys. I was discussing this point recently with one
of our largest NOS suppliers who told me that WB stamped all their key blanks
with whatever number they wanted, then machined them in a one-hit tool to fit
that code and finally plated them. Don't never ever remember handling a new
key for a new car where you could see the plating abraded along the key top
and base. The plating all came off later through use.
 
Jonmac

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Mar 14 17:00:07 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 00:00:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Oil "Mileage"
In-Reply-To: <72926.5702.qm@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <289317861.16098791268611207922.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

lotus used to pawn off 300 miles per quart as normal!!B  anything to drag
another buck out of the consumer, eh?

Energy Management is the hallmark of a professional pilot

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 5:20:44 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] Oil "Mileage"

We were often asked this question by new owners in my days as a salesman for
S-T. With mineral oil being the only one available and with what the factory
(curiously) said was "considerate use" - meaning you didn't continuously 'red
line' the rev counter - oil consumption was anticipated as being one pint per
1000 miles at about 60,000 miles and always on a 20W/50. By that stage, the
piston rings would be less effective and the valve guides would be approaching
their life end. You'd certainly have been facing a full rebuild by 85,000.
These days with modern lubes and still using the latest spec mineral lube with
full oil and filter changes at 3000 mile intervals, I'd be looking at almost
doubling the figures above. My own 2500 injected engine was using less than
1/2 pint of oil per 1500 miles by the time I sold the car at 84,000 since the
rebuild - and most of that oil loss was from a pinhole leak on the front crank
oil seal which I never did get round to sorting.

Jonmac

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation B $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun Mar 14 21:21:39 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 00:21:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator
References: <AB4BB87138BE44A6B9425DE5B6AA3C3D@Edscomputer>
	<0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer>

List,

Has anyone out there actually used a Bosch alternator (Ford Fiesta '78-'80)? 
What did you use for the connector? Were you able to find the proper 
alternator connector with a pigtail? I've been to four local FLAPS to no 
avail.

TIA,

Ed Woods 

From tom628 at verizon.net  Sun Mar 14 21:57:47 2010
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 00:57:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator
References: <AB4BB87138BE44A6B9425DE5B6AA3C3D@Edscomputer>
	<0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <A8366B0185FB474AB46E502927BD3B49@Toms>

Ed:  I got one thru autopartsgiant.com. , P/N 13107. It came w/o a pulley. 
Got a chrome one from Amazon, Mr.Gasket #6808.
On my '76 TR6, it was a direct plug-in. Other years may require an adapter, 
which I believe Moss sells.
Most guys have gotten the Bosch alt from Rock Auto. Usually they come from 
Rock Auto with the pulley, but sometimes not. Call them.

Also, if you have the later engine with the air pump removed, you may have 
to source the earlier alt mounting bracket. If you choose to retain the air 
pump, perhaps someone else will be able to advise.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 12:21 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Bosch Alternator


> List,
>
> Has anyone out there actually used a Bosch alternator (Ford Fiesta 
> '78-'80)? What did you use for the connector? Were you able to find the 
> proper alternator connector with a pigtail? I've been to four local FLAPS 
> to no avail.
>
> TIA,
>
> Ed Woods
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net

From peter at nosimport.com  Mon Mar 15 04:55:31 2010
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 06:55:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator
In-Reply-To: <6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer>
References: <AB4BB87138BE44A6B9425DE5B6AA3C3D@Edscomputer>
	<0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <20100315035528.SM06964@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Ed,
         Back when this a very popular interchange, the pigtails were 
readily available. Every FLAPS had them. (I AM one, btw) They were 
for VWs, all Lucas, etc.
         I believe the struggles you are having are due in part to 
the 20 year old instructions. Those parts are now less popular, A 
local rebuilding shop should be able to help. Another issue you are 
likely having is that your 250 probably has the original wiring.
         If you need help, contact me directly.

Peter C
=========
At 11:21 PM 3/14/2010, Ed Woods wrote:
>List,
>
>Has anyone out there actually used a Bosch alternator (Ford Fiesta 
>'78-'80)? What did you use for the connector? Were you able to find 
>the proper alternator connector with a pigtail? I've been to four 
>local FLAPS to no avail.
>
>TIA,
>
>Ed Woods

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Mar 15 05:38:21 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 08:38:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator
In-Reply-To: <A8366B0185FB474AB46E502927BD3B49@Toms>
References: <AB4BB87138BE44A6B9425DE5B6AA3C3D@Edscomputer><0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall><6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer>
	<A8366B0185FB474AB46E502927BD3B49@Toms>
Message-ID: <EC5449DCDA4542B7A56A5F5E1BA2873D@BobPC>

Ed.........if the Bosch is the same as the GM with regard to the mounting 
bracket, this shows how I did mine. 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Alternator_Conversion_1.htm) This only 
applies to a TR6 with an air pump.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tom Note" <tom628 at verizon.net>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 12:57 AM
To: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bosch Alternator

> Ed:  I got one thru autopartsgiant.com. , P/N 13107. It came w/o a pulley. 
> Got a chrome one from Amazon, Mr.Gasket #6808.
> On my '76 TR6, it was a direct plug-in. Other years may require an 
> adapter, which I believe Moss sells.
> Most guys have gotten the Bosch alt from Rock Auto. Usually they come from 
> Rock Auto with the pulley, but sometimes not. Call them.
>
> Also, if you have the later engine with the air pump removed, you may have 
> to source the earlier alt mounting bracket. If you choose to retain the 
> air pump, perhaps someone else will be able to advise.
>
> Tom
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 12:21 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Bosch Alternator
>
>
>> List,
>>
>> Has anyone out there actually used a Bosch alternator (Ford Fiesta 
>> '78-'80)? What did you use for the connector? Were you able to find the 
>> proper alternator connector with a pigtail? I've been to four local FLAPS 
>> to no avail.
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> Ed Woods
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 15 05:45:35 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 05:45:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator
In-Reply-To: <6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer>
References: <AB4BB87138BE44A6B9425DE5B6AA3C3D@Edscomputer><0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <10cd01cac43d$68e66820$0301a8c0@randall>

> Has anyone out there actually used a Bosch alternator (Ford 
> Fiesta '78-'80)? 
> What did you use for the connector? 

We skipped the plug, and just used individual quick connects.  ISTR we got
the big ones (3/8") from Radio Shack, but I couldn't find them on the web
site just now.  Here's one source, though:
http://tinyurl.com/y9ma9u2

However, you can buy the plug from Moss, P/N 540-280.

Note that I suggest connecting to both large terminals, especially when
using the Bosch alternator.  A single quick-connect (or plug terminal) is
simply not enough to carry the full output of the alternator without getting
hot, and getting hot will eventually lead to failure.

I am also a firm believer in soldering electrical connections, especially
high current ones.  So I cut the insulator off, crimped and soldered the
connection, and then used heat shrink tubing to make a new insulator.

Randall

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Mar 15 08:45:43 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 08:45:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator
In-Reply-To: <20100315035528.SM06964@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <AB4BB87138BE44A6B9425DE5B6AA3C3D@Edscomputer>
	<0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer>
	<20100315035528.SM06964@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <a06240800c7c405c4d366@[192.168.2.2]>

If you can find a decent rebuild shop they can fix your original 
cheaper (most of the time). We had the 5 wire alternator rebuilt for 
our 1970 TR6 for $80, which allowed us to maintain the original look, 
important to us for Concours events.

>Ed,
>         Back when this a very popular interchange, the pigtails were 
>readily available. Every FLAPS had them. (I AM one, btw) They were 
>for VWs, all Lucas, etc.
>         I believe the struggles you are having are due in part to 
>the 20 year old instructions. Those parts are now less popular, A 
>local rebuilding shop should be able to help. Another issue you are 
>likely having is that your 250 probably has the original wiring.
>         If you need help, contact me directly.

-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
anabil007 at comcast.net
Wallace, CA

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Mar 15 13:20:48 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 16:20:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR250/6 fan belts
Message-ID: <0E7D2BF1A51847309627741D8082DE9B@Edscomputer>

List,

After resolving the electrical questions regarding fitment of the Bosch
alternator to the TR250, thanks to a number of people on this List, I find
that the present fan belt is too short for the Bosch. Since the fan belt
placed the Lucas at its minimum position, almost touching the fuel line and
almost blocking access to #1 plug, I suspect that it was incorrect even for
the Lucas.

So, my question of the hour is: what's the correct fan belt of the TR250, TR6?
Does someone on the List have information that would be recognized by a FLAPS
counterman?

I would prefer not to take the existing belt off to present at the FLAPS
counter, since it involves unbolting and moving the steering rack!

And just out of curiousity, what's its width, 3/8" or 1/2"

With 38 hours till departure,

Ed Woods

P.S. Didn't someone tell me to get 1000 miles on a car locally before a long
trip? Why am I ignoring that sage advice (again)?

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Mar 15 13:21:48 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 13:21:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] queens english car show los angeles
Message-ID: <328682.79588.qm@web113318.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

i was at the queens English car show in los angeles yesterday. what a lot of fun i had, especially as i was able to take my car to its first British car outing.
there was a really nice triumph mayflower on display and the sign said it was owned by Gloria Young. i hung out wanting to meet the owner but was unable to. and then the car was gone. id surly like to correspond with this person on some of the modifications. does any one in the southern california area know this person and can you introduce me.
fellow lister and friend Paul is currently restoring a really nice, superb condition california Mayflower and it would be helpful to correspond.
thanks
Frank

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Mar 15 13:41:14 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 20:41:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR250/6 fan belts
In-Reply-To: <0E7D2BF1A51847309627741D8082DE9B@Edscomputer>
References: <0E7D2BF1A51847309627741D8082DE9B@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E6D14B@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Ed, I use a 45.5 inch belt with that alternator. It is NAPA part number 9455
and I have the standard alternator bracket, just blinged up a bit.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/Eng
ineandWebers.jpg


You should be able to lever the engine back to allow the belt to clear the
rack for removal and installation.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ed Woods
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 4:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR250/6 fan belts

List,

After resolving the electrical questions regarding fitment of the Bosch
alternator to the TR250, thanks to a number of people on this List, I find
that the present fan belt is too short for the Bosch. Since the fan belt
placed the Lucas at its minimum position, almost touching the fuel line and
almost blocking access to #1 plug, I suspect that it was incorrect even for
the Lucas.

So, my question of the hour is: what's the correct fan belt of the TR250,
TR6?
Does someone on the List have information that would be recognized by a FLAPS
counterman?

I would prefer not to take the existing belt off to present at the FLAPS
counter, since it involves unbolting and moving the steering rack!

And just out of curiousity, what's its width, 3/8" or 1/2"

With 38 hours till departure,

Ed Woods

P.S. Didn't someone tell me to get 1000 miles on a car locally before a long
trip? Why am I ignoring that sage advice (again)?

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Mar 15 16:10:54 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 16:10:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] GT6 in UK advert
Message-ID: <93538.23077.qm@web28304.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi, List

I was yawning with boredom tonight at UK tv - and yawned even more
when the programme interrupted the adverts. But the advert for Lucozade Alert
is a new one for me. Click on this link and see a guy doing stupid things with
a Mk 1 GT6 in the snow.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bv67DsqlAU

No, it
doesn't get bent and none of the deer get hit. However, anyone driving a Mk 1
GT6 in those conditions should know in advance that 'staying alert' when
driving that particular model was a foregone conclusion in which an energy
drink would have been absolutely unnecessary. IMHO, a more appropriate product
to link with the car in those conditions would be incontinence pads :)

Jonmac

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Mon Mar 15 17:48:35 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 20:48:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR250/6 fan belts
In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E6D14B@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <0E7D2BF1A51847309627741D8082DE9B@Edscomputer>
	<374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E6D14B@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <8CC92B98AF06EBB-92B4-4E84@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com>

 Ed,

What Stan said, but here is the addition of my experience.  I went a slightly
different route, and used a GM alternator and mounted it upside down.  A
write-up of my experience is located at triumphowners.com/108 if you have an
interest.  I did run into the same problem you describe, needing a new fan
belt and not knowing what size would work.  I went to the local NAPA store and
came back with a fan belt that was, of course, too short.  So the next time I
went I bought three, each slightly longer than the next, with the full
knowledge of the staff there that I would return the two that were not the
right length.  That solution worked and an hour after I left I returned with
the two unused fan belts.  Problem solved.

Let us know what works for you.

Aaron








-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Mar 15, 2010 4:41 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR250/6 fan belts


Ed, I use a 45.5 inch belt with that alternator. It is NAPA part number 9455
and I have the standard alternator bracket, just blinged up a bit.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/Eng
ineandWebers.jpg


You should be able to lever the engine back to allow the belt to clear the
rack for removal and installation.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ed Woods
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 4:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR250/6 fan belts

List,

After resolving the electrical questions regarding fitment of the Bosch
alternator to the TR250, thanks to a number of people on this List, I find
that the present fan belt is too short for the Bosch. Since the fan belt
placed the Lucas at its minimum position, almost touching the fuel line and
almost blocking access to #1 plug, I suspect that it was incorrect even for
the Lucas.

So, my question of the hour is: what's the correct fan belt of the TR250,
TR6?
Does someone on the List have information that would be recognized by a FLAPS
counterman?

I would prefer not to take the existing belt off to present at the FLAPS
counter, since it involves unbolting and moving the steering rack!

And just out of curiousity, what's its width, 3/8" or 1/2"

With 38 hours till departure,

Ed Woods

P.S. Didn't someone tell me to get 1000 miles on a car locally before a long
trip? Why am I ignoring that sage advice (again)?

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com

From areich at telus.net  Mon Mar 15 18:22:05 2010
From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:22:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Solid Copper Head Gasket for TR3
Message-ID: <4B9EDD3D.8010606@telus.net>

Greetings.
I have blown a number of head gaskets (at least 5) and have discussed 
this on the list over the last couple of years. The last one blew 
outside Eureka coming back from Triumphest .. this was on an engine 
rebuilt completely professionally.
A well trusted source has suggested that the new gaskets are built for 
83 - 87 mm pistons and can easily burn out, especially with 87 mm 
pistons, which I have.
He suggested a solid copper gasket, which he uses in his tr3/tr4 racing 
engines and suggest they may be the answer.
I have been on Gasket Works web site, and it seems to make sense. They 
also discuss at length the o-rings required.
What are the list's opinions on solid copper head gaskets? .. also on 
installing the o-rings? .. importance of specific 87mm sizing?
While it is apart, I am also planning to put in the 6 vane water pump 
and try and find a 185 long thermostat and take out my drilled out brass 
plug. Can't cover too many bases.
Thanks
Allan Reich
Vancouver, Canada
1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O)

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Mon Mar 15 18:56:50 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:56:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Solid Copper Head Gasket for TR3
In-Reply-To: <4B9EDD3D.8010606@telus.net>
References: <4B9EDD3D.8010606@telus.net>
Message-ID: <4B9EE562.50000@blacksburg.net>

On 3/15/2010 9:22 PM, Allan Reich wrote:
> Greetings.
> I have blown a number of head gaskets (at least 5) and have discussed 
> this on the list over the last couple of years. The last one blew 
> outside Eureka coming back from Triumphest .. this was on an engine 
> rebuilt completely professionally.
> A well trusted source has suggested that the new gaskets are built for 
> 83 - 87 mm pistons and can easily burn out, especially with 87 mm 
> pistons, which I have.
> He suggested a solid copper gasket, which he uses in his tr3/tr4 
> racing engines and suggest they may be the answer.
Allan, I tried Mordy's gasket (a work of art), with limited success.  It 
is really critical that the sleeves protrude 0.002 - 0.003 (check his 
Web site for exact #, I'm going from memory) and that they all protrude 
equally all the way around.  If your engine meets those requirements, 
you won't be disappointed with his gasket. A side benefit is, since the 
gasket is thinner than the composite gaskets, you'll increase your CR a 
bit.  He can also make special Figure 8 gaskets to provide the correct 
sleeve protrusion.

I'm surprised you've burned gaskets with 87mm pistons, as I believe the 
new gaskets are all made to allow for 87 pistons.

jim
> I have been on Gasket Works web site, and it seems to make sense. They 
> also discuss at length the o-rings required.
> What are the list's opinions on solid copper head gaskets? .. also on 
> installing the o-rings? .. importance of specific 87mm sizing?
> While it is apart, I am also planning to put in the 6 vane water pump 
> and try and find a 185 long thermostat and take out my drilled out 
> brass plug. Can't cover too many bases.
> Thanks
> Allan Reich
> Vancouver, Canada
> 1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O)
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jhassall at blacksburg.net
>
>


-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Mar 15 19:22:16 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:22:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] side tension cable?
Message-ID: <D41F5BF639D64B7E9751E80AC1EBC97F@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

      1960 TRIUMPH TR3A 2.0L 1991cc L4 : Body-Interior : Side Tension Cable
Price Core Total
                  KEE AUTO TOP Part # TDCFUniversal  {Side Tension Cables
(Universal) - 61 7/8" Long}
                  Convertible; To 6/61
                  * Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 5 business days

     $210.79 $0.00 $210.79


List, "Rock Auto" was mentioned recently causing me to look at their web site
at http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
where clicking their 'Body- Interior' shows a $210 'Side Tension Cable' for a
TR3.  What is this?
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A

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From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Mar 15 20:21:49 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:21:49 -0600
Subject: [TR] side tension cable?
In-Reply-To: <D41F5BF639D64B7E9751E80AC1EBC97F@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <D41F5BF639D64B7E9751E80AC1EBC97F@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <F63C129234134FC4BBCB32950E072C84@bboffice>

Not clue, I am sure that I don't have them on my '58.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 8:22 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] side tension cable?

      1960 TRIUMPH TR3A 2.0L 1991cc L4 : Body-Interior : Side Tension Cable
Price Core Total
                  KEE AUTO TOP Part # TDCFUniversal  {Side Tension Cables
(Universal) - 61 7/8" Long}
                  Convertible; To 6/61
                  * Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 5 business days

     $210.79 $0.00 $210.79


List, "Rock Auto" was mentioned recently causing me to look at their web
site at http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
where clicking their 'Body- Interior' shows a $210 'Side Tension Cable' for
a TR3.  What is this?
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A

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_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Mar 15 21:17:26 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:17:26 -0600
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor
Message-ID: <4B9F0656.1020804@bradakis.com>

Okay, if you're willing to spend a moment, go to http://www.team.net/archive

At the top of the page should be a box with Google ads in it.  Now, do you
see a little 'Public Service ads by Google' in the lower right corner, or do
you see what looks like regular commercial entity adverts?

Something odd seems to be happening with my Google ads, trying to
track it down.  It would be nice if lots and lots of folks would go to
Team.Net pages with ads and click on the ads and I'd get a nice check
from Google on a regular basis.  Then I could quit begging people
for the money needed to keep Team.Net on the air!

Anyway, if a few of you could assist, I would appreciate it.

mjb.

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Mon Mar 15 21:22:07 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 00:22:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor
In-Reply-To: <4B9F0656.1020804@bradakis.com>
References: <4B9F0656.1020804@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CC92D75FE18890-92B4-7B33@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com>

 Done....ad by Kiva Microfinance.

I run Firefox and had to disable ad blocking on the page by Ad Block Plus.






-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Mar 16, 2010 12:17 am
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor


Okay, if you're willing to spend a moment, go to http://www.team.net/archive

At the top of the page should be a box with Google ads in it.  Now, do you
see a little 'Public Service ads by Google' in the lower right corner, or do
you see what looks like regular commercial entity adverts?

Something odd seems to be happening with my Google ads, trying to
track it down.  It would be nice if lots and lots of folks would go to
Team.Net pages with ads and click on the ads and I'd get a nice check
from Google on a regular basis.  Then I could quit begging people
for the money needed to keep Team.Net on the air!

Anyway, if a few of you could assist, I would appreciate it.

mjb.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Mar 15 21:22:49 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:22:49 -0600
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor
In-Reply-To: <4B9F0656.1020804@bradakis.com>
References: <4B9F0656.1020804@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <C6CFF7593D6C4C739EA88E03CE907BF2@bboffice>

Mark, I see the Google and the little 'Public Service ads by Google' in the
lower right-hand corner.

Clicking through now so you can have that BIG payday!

Thanks,
Bill



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:17 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor

Okay, if you're willing to spend a moment, go to http://www.team.net/archive

At the top of the page should be a box with  in the lower right corner, or
do you see what looks like regular commercial entity adverts?

Something odd seems to be happening with my Google ads, trying to track it
down.  It would be nice if lots and lots of folks would go to Team.Net pages
with ads and click on the ads and I'd get a nice check from Google on a
regular basis.  Then I could quit begging people for the money needed to
keep Team.Net on the air!

Anyway, if a few of you could assist, I would appreciate it.

mjb.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Mar 15 21:28:48 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:28:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor
In-Reply-To: <C6CFF7593D6C4C739EA88E03CE907BF2@bboffice>
References: <4B9F0656.1020804@bradakis.com>
	<C6CFF7593D6C4C739EA88E03CE907BF2@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4B9F0900.1020808@bradakis.com>

wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Mark, I see the Google and the little 'Public Service ads by Google' in the
> lower right-hand corner.
>
> Clicking through now so you can have that BIG payday!
>
>   
I appreciate it, but trouble is the public service ads don't pay.  When 
I go to
http://fatchancegarage.com though, the ads on the side are regular 
commercial
ads that do pay.  I'm trying to figure out why it works on one page but not
another.

Computers can be so much fun.

mjb.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 15 21:29:43 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:29:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] side tension cable?
In-Reply-To: <D41F5BF639D64B7E9751E80AC1EBC97F@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <D41F5BF639D64B7E9751E80AC1EBC97F@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <12a301cac4c1$4dbd3c20$0301a8c0@randall>

> List, "Rock Auto" was mentioned recently causing me to look 
> at their web site
> at http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
> where clicking their 'Body- Interior' shows a $210 'Side 
> Tension Cable' for a
> TR3.  What is this?

A misprint/typographical error in their catalog.  There are several more.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 15 21:42:11 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:42:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Solid Copper Head Gasket for TR3
In-Reply-To: <4B9EDD3D.8010606@telus.net>
References: <4B9EDD3D.8010606@telus.net>
Message-ID: <12a401cac4c3$0b655ea0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have blown a number of head gaskets (at least 5) and have discussed 
> this on the list over the last couple of years. The last one blew 
> outside Eureka coming back from Triumphest .. this was on an engine 
> rebuilt completely professionally.

My first thought is that even professionals sometimes make mistakes, like
not checking liner protrusion on BOTH sides.

I went through very much the same thing, before I finally twigged to the
fact that the cylinder block I was using was apparently cut wrong by the
factory.  The liner bores were not perpendicular to the cylinder head
surface; with the result that the liner protrusion was fine on one side, and
less than .001" on the other.

> A well trusted source has suggested that the new gaskets are 
> built for 
> 83 - 87 mm pistons and can easily burn out, especially with 87 mm 
> pistons, which I have.

Not sure I follow this argument.  If they are built for 87mm pistons, they
should work fine with them.  There were some gaskets years ago that had
smaller openings (for 83mm pistons only), and they can be a problem with the
larger liners.  But this is one of those things that should be checked
during a rebuild.

As long as the gasket does not hang out in the combustion chamber, it should
be fine.  Using an 87mm gasket with 83mm liners works too, the small gap
quickly fills with carbon.

> What are the list's opinions on solid copper head gaskets? ..

They sound great for racing engines that get torn down every few hundred
miles; sometimes two or three times in a single day.  But I haven't heard or
seen anything that convinces me they are easier to keep sealed for a long
time than the stock composition gaskets are.  Lots of folks seem to have
trouble with them leaking, especially if everything else isn't "just so".
When I discussed my head gasket problem with Ken Gillanders at BFE, he felt
the solid copper gaskets would just make it worse.

> also on installing the o-rings? ..

I'm not sure what Mordy has on his web site re: O-rings; but adding rings to
a stock gasket is how I got my engine to live.  That must've been around
1995 or so ... It never blew a headgasket again and was still running great
when the car got wrecked a few years ago.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 15 21:57:17 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:57:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor
In-Reply-To: <4B9F0900.1020808@bradakis.com>
References: <4B9F0656.1020804@bradakis.com><C6CFF7593D6C4C739EA88E03CE907BF2@bboffice>
	<4B9F0900.1020808@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <12ab01cac4c5$27aa6400$0301a8c0@randall>

> I appreciate it, but trouble is the public service ads don't 
> pay.  When 
> I go to
> http://fatchancegarage.com though, the ads on the side are regular 
> commercial
> ads that do pay.  I'm trying to figure out why it works on 
> one page but not
> another.

Ok, this may sound stupid, but is there any chance that it's because
Team.Net uses ".net" instead of ".com"?

The strange thing is that, if I save the TN archive page to my hard drive,
and then open it, I get the paid Google ads.  This seems to indicate that
the difference has nothing to do with the page source, and is some kind of
decision being made at Google.

Randall

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Mar 15 23:43:34 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 23:43:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] Solid Copper Head Gasket for TR3
In-Reply-To: <4B9EDD3D.8010606@telus.net>
References: <4B9EDD3D.8010606@telus.net>
Message-ID: <a0624080bc7c4d86f0412@[192.168.2.2]>

I had the same problem with Casper 1957 TR3. I finally found a 
mechanic who did some serious checking and discovered my 87mm liners 
were too short, therefore not sealing correctly with any sort of head 
gasket.  Once they were replaced all is well.  It is a theory you 
might want to check out ...



>Greetings.
>I have blown a number of head gaskets (at least 5) and have 
>discussed this on the list over the last couple of years. The last 
>one blew outside Eureka coming back from Triumphest .. this was on 
>an engine rebuilt completely professionally.
>A well trusted source has suggested that the new gaskets are built 
>for 83 - 87 mm pistons and can easily burn out, especially with 87 
>mm pistons, which I have.
>He suggested a solid copper gasket, which he uses in his tr3/tr4 
>racing engines and suggest they may be the answer.
>I have been on Gasket Works web site, and it seems to make sense. 
>They also discuss at length the o-rings required.
>What are the list's opinions on solid copper head gaskets? .. also 
>on installing the o-rings? .. importance of specific 87mm sizing?
>While it is apart, I am also planning to put in the 6 vane water 
>pump and try and find a 185 long thermostat and take out my drilled 
>out brass plug. Can't cover too many bases.
>Thanks
>Allan Reich
>Vancouver, Canada
>1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O)


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Mar 16 04:15:14 2010
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 07:15:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor
In-Reply-To: <4B9F0656.1020804@bradakis.com>
References: <4B9F0656.1020804@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4B9F6842.3020209@snet.net>

I see public service adds.  John Mitchell

Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Okay, if you're willing to spend a moment, go to 
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> At the top of the page should be a box with Google ads in it.  Now, do 
> you
> see a little 'Public Service ads by Google' in the lower right corner, 
> or do
> you see what looks like regular commercial entity adverts?
>
> Something odd seems to be happening with my Google ads, trying to
> track it down.  It would be nice if lots and lots of folks would go to
> Team.Net pages with ads and click on the ads and I'd get a nice check
> from Google on a regular basis.  Then I could quit begging people
> for the money needed to keep Team.Net on the air!
>
> Anyway, if a few of you could assist, I would appreciate it.
>
> mjb.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Mar 16 04:29:53 2010
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 04:29:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Resto-Mod TR3
Message-ID: <388363.48065.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Triumphant ones,

Check out this Racetorations "resto-mod".
http://www.dep-o.co.uk/page339.asp

Doug

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Mar 16 05:40:32 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 08:40:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor
In-Reply-To: <4B9F0656.1020804@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4B9F4400.9412.1E7D7C1@localhost>

On 15 Mar 2010 at 22:17, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Now, do you see a little 'Public Service ads by Google'
> in the lower right corner, or do you see what looks like
> regular commercial entity adverts?

I use Firefox.  I see a white box at the top with a Google public 
service ad.  Nothing else but the list of archives.  This was after I 
clicked NoScript to temporarily allow Googlesyndication.  No other 
allowance in NoScript made any difference.  (Doubleclick was the only 
other entry.)  Adblock Plus reports 0 out of 6 items blocked, so it 
isn't doing anything here.  I used IE Tab to try with an IE renderer, 
no difference.  As near as I can tell Javascript is not blocked.

Just the white box.  One large but lonely white box.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Mar 16 06:05:31 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 09:05:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Something odd (and off-topic) has happened
Message-ID: <4B9F49DB.29619.1FEB9C9@localhost>

This morning the sky is an unusual color, something people used to 
call blue.  And I fear that were I to step outside I would get dry 
instead of wet.  Even worse, the wetland in the back yard is starting 
to diminish.  I do hope the state EPA won't blame me.  For a few days 
we had lake-front property, and I do hope the city won't re-value it 
accordingly.  Maybe they won't notice before the lake goes away.  Now 
if only the sump pumps would stop cycling every 20 seconds...


Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From aribert at c3net.net  Tue Mar 16 06:18:03 2010
From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 09:18:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] side tension cable?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.8488.1268716959.6563.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.8488.1268716959.6563.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <b7d5b6c94cabf37436ceaebd46ecf677.squirrel@server6.glis.net>

In real life, I have been a topstack engineer (topstack is the industry
term for a convertible top assy) for about 20 years.  To my knowledge, all
modern topstacks have side tension cables.  The cable is no more than an
eyelet crimped to a 1/16 in. or 2mm steel cable that has a spring crimped
to the other end (material & labor cost less than $5 / cable asm). The
side tension cable lays in a sleeve sewn to the backside of the topcover. 
THe purpose of the side tension cable is to keep the topcover tight
against the side rail thus minimizing wind noise in that area (along the
top edge of the door glass).

I have looked at attaching side tension cables to the custom Spit topcover
on my '71 Spit bodied GT6 but the frame configuration does not lend its
self to doing so.  If I could get a cable to package, it would keep the
topcover edge with its seal flap pulled tight against the door glass.

I suspect the side tension cable listing at RockAuto is a programming
error - similar to the occasional oxygen sensor listing for older cars
that never had them.

Aribert

'71 GT6, Spit body, 2.5L, triple DCOEs, GRM style custom Mazda diff & CV
joints (no more Rotoflex), custom sewn Stayfast fabric top, modified
(intended for Miata) Orris windblocker.






>       1960 TRIUMPH TR3A 2.0L 1991cc L4 : Body-Interior : Side Tension
> Cable
> Price Core Total
>                   KEE AUTO TOP Part # TDCFUniversal  {Side Tension Cables
> (Universal) - 61 7/8" Long}
>                   Convertible; To 6/61
>                   * Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 5 business days
>
>      $210.79 $0.00 $210.79
>
>
> List, "Rock Auto" was mentioned recently causing me to look at their web
> site
> at http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
> where clicking their 'Body- Interior' shows a $210 'Side Tension Cable'
> for a
> TR3.  What is this?
> Thanks,
> Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Tue Mar 16 07:06:51 2010
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 10:06:51 EDT
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor
Message-ID: <8e21a.7bcc6e89.38d0ea7b@aol.com>

Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:17:26 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis  <mark at bradakis.com>
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor
To: Triumph  List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:  <4B9F0656.1020804 at bradakis.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Okay, if you're willing to spend a  moment, go to 
http://www.team.net/archive

At the top of the page should  be a box with Google ads in it.  Now, do you
see a little 'Public  Service ads by Google' in the lower right corner, or 
do
you see what looks  like regular commercial entity adverts?



Done, happily, several times.
 
 
Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ
President, Positive Earth  Drivers Club
TR4A IRS CTC 60536 L
TR7 Spider  TPVDJ8AA400612

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Mar 16 07:25:44 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 08:25:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] Something odd (and off-topic) has happened
In-Reply-To: <4B9F49DB.29619.1FEB9C9@localhost>
References: <4B9F49DB.29619.1FEB9C9@localhost>
Message-ID: <2BE6D1DEBEDF4721A86C9C9D460220E0@bboffice>

Sounds like Triumph season is just around the corner.  I can see the dirt in
my yard peaking out from under the snow for the first time since December
and my road to the highway is 'almost' snow-free!!!

Just a reminder: If you are like me and canceled your liability insurance
for your TR over the winter months DO NOT FORGET to call your agent before
you get out for that first drive of 2010.

Happy motoring,
B

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 7:06 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Something odd (and off-topic) has happened

This morning the sky is an unusual color, something people used to call
blue.  And I fear that were I to step outside I would get dry instead of
wet.  Even worse, the wetland in the back yard is starting to diminish.  I
do hope the state EPA won't blame me.  For a few days we had lake-front
property, and I do hope the city won't re-value it accordingly.  Maybe they
won't notice before the lake goes away.  Now if only the sump pumps would
stop cycling every 20 seconds...


Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Mar 16 11:29:57 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 12:29:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] Off topic, quick favor
In-Reply-To: <1564051492.5273461268758729667.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1564051492.5273461268758729667.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B9FCE25.1020307@bradakis.com>

Thanks, folks.  I think I've got the situation under control now.  In a few
days the correct ads should start appearing again.  I appreciate those who
clicked on the paying ads, I get a few cents, maybe a dime for every click
and it costs you nothing, the money comes from the fees the companies
pay to Google.

Over the course of a year I end up with enough Adsense money to cover
about one month's worth of operating costs.  So I still depend on folks
using the donate link below to send contributions either with Paypal
or a check - donate early, donate often ;-)  Actually I do have a batch of
donations I need to acknowledge saved up from the last little while.
I am *such* a procrastinator!


mjb.

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Tue Mar 16 12:09:49 2010
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 12:09:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Don't forget the insurance
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1268766001.31766.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1268766001.31766.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <129323.33924.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Good advice.  One year I totally forgot to put it back on and proceeded to go
the whole season without insurance.  Realized it in the fall when I tried to
cancel it again.  

Dumb.

Joe Merone
CF18928
South Burlington, VT

>Just a
reminder: If you are like me and canceled your liability insurance
>for your
TR over the winter months DO NOT FORGET to call your agent before
>you get out
for that first drive of 2010.

From fwildi at yahoo.com  Tue Mar 16 12:12:16 2010
From: fwildi at yahoo.com (francois wildi)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 12:12:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] long TR4 inlet manifold in a TR3A/B ?
Message-ID: <48042.26812.qm@web112709.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hello,
After over 6 years (I don't know the plural form of annus horibilis) I
am back on tracks maintaining, driving (not quite yet but VERY soon) and
upgrading my TR3A. I greet you all again.
One of the projects I have is to
improve the breathing of the engine. And I am toying with the idea of fitting
a long TR4 manifold on the TR3. Not much clearance on the R/h inner fender
side. The manifold really does look very long... really really long. I will
make a direct comparison tomorrow at work between a extra regular manifold I
have and that long one. I can probably shave a millimeter or 2 on each side,
wedge the carb side and even maybe the engine side a bit. But will it suffice?
Has anybody done this mod? Building an inlet air-streamed manifold from
scratch seems no piece of cake. And I still got to have the colleague show me
how to TIG aluminum...

Cheers
Frangois

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Mar 16 12:50:16 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 15:50:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Don't forget the insurance
In-Reply-To: <129323.33924.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.4.1268766001.31766.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<129323.33924.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42DDE42C50324879A54C55A91748C691@BobPC>

I've got a BIG note on my windshield to remind me! 65 degrees for the next 5 
days and I've got no interior! I'm dying here.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Joe Merone" <jmerone at rocketmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 3:09 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Don't forget the insurance

> Good advice.  One year I totally forgot to put it back on and proceeded to 
> go
> the whole season without insurance.  Realized it in the fall when I tried 
> to
> cancel it again.
>
> Dumb.
>
> Joe Merone
> CF18928
> South Burlington, VT
>
>>Just a
> reminder: If you are like me and canceled your liability insurance
>>for your
> TR over the winter months DO NOT FORGET to call your agent before
>>you get out
> for that first drive of 2010.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Mar 16 13:21:22 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:21:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] long TR4 inlet manifold in a TR3A/B ?
In-Reply-To: <48042.26812.qm@web112709.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <514076928.1559851268770882582.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I did the conversion, but had to use HS6 (TR6) carbs so that the air cleaners would fit. 
So the longer TR4 intake manifold and "shorter" carbs results in a net gain of almost nothing. 
If you could get a set of blank air cleaners and then cut the appropriate offset holes, you could probably 
get around the inner fender problem. Or cut out and rework the inner fender - much too much 
effort for my blood. Again, my worked fine, but I'll leave it to the engineers on the list to sort out 
if there is any net good effect of the TR4 manifold and TR6 SU carbs. 
Hope this rambling helps. 
Tom 
60 TR3A stock 
61 TR3A modified 
62 TR4 
73 Stag 

-Subject: [TR] long TR4 inlet manifold in a TR3A/B ? 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 16 13:48:45 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 13:48:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] long TR4 inlet manifold in a TR3A/B ?
In-Reply-To: <48042.26812.qm@web112709.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <48042.26812.qm@web112709.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <005301cac54a$1c69ada0$553d08e0$@rr.com>

I haven't tried it yet, but I plan to.  Two things I'll be doing :

1) Use the SU HS6 carbs from a late TR4A.  These are both quite a bit
shorter than the original H6 carbs, and have substantial improvements.  I've
also heard they flow better.

2) If the result is too long, I'm simply going to modify the inner wing.
It's already been 'massaged' to clear (more or less) the 4A paper element
air filters.  If need be, I may even introduce a cold air box with an
external air intake through the fender area.

-- Randall 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Mar 16 15:30:45 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:30:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Something odd (and off-topic) has happened
In-Reply-To: <4B9F49DB.29619.1FEB9C9@localhost>
Message-ID: <699431456.5818341268778645556.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>This morning the sky is an unusual color, something people used to
>call blue. B And I fear that were I to step outside I would get dry
>instead of wet. B Even worse, the wetland in the back yard is starting
>to diminish. B I do hope the state EPA won't blame me. B For a few days
>we had lake-front property, and I do hope the city won't re-value it
>accordingly. B Maybe they won't notice before the lake goes away. B Now
>if only the sump pumps would stop cycling every 20 seconds...


Oh thou of little faith!B  In New Hampshire we call that one-morning phenomon
"summer."B  Rest assured that it is indeed only a morning's worth of
unpleasantness and that hearty weather will return on the morrow.



New England, not for the faint-hearted.B  Uh, only for the faint-brained.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Mar 16 18:31:41 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:31:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] long TR4 inlet manifold in a TR3A/B ?
In-Reply-To: <48042.26812.qm@web112709.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <48042.26812.qm@web112709.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003161831i25bbadbqc44868c49f5c66b7@mail.gmail.com>

Oh my.. a voice from the distant past!

I just did a quick rough comparison and it looks to me like the TR3
manifold is 3.75" v the TR4's 5.125" -- a lot of extra distance to
squeeze in there.

By 'wedge the carb side' are you referring to the need to get the H6
carb at the correct angle (since the TR4 manifold presents a nearly
vertical surface)?

Sounds to me like you're going to end up with a 'power bulge' someplace.

Geo

On 3/16/10, francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com> wrote:
> ...the idea of fitting
> a long TR4 manifold on the TR3. Not much clearance on the R/h inner fender
> side. The manifold really does look very long... really really long. I will
> make a direct comparison tomorrow at work between a extra regular manifold I
> have and that long one. I can probably shave a millimeter or 2 on each side,
> wedge the carb side and even maybe the engine side a bit. But will it
> suffice?

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Mar 16 19:31:46 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:31:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Door Pulls
Message-ID: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC>

I'm thinking of doing away with the stock interior door pull for the late TR6
and try to find a retro-like pull handle. There's a bunch out there for MGB,
Sprite, TR4 etc but I'm hoping for one that would match up with the existing
screw holes that are 4-7/8" center to center. Has anybody done this or have a
part# that would fit?

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Mar 16 19:34:26 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:34:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] 3 peices of fuel line?
Message-ID: <6087D46C22324FE1A174DB7A05B97A54@OwnerPC>

List,
I'm just now getting around to installing the 'stainless steel fuel lines'
that I ordered over a year ago from Classic Tube.  I don't think any
instructions came with the tubing set.  The pre-bent set consists of three of
the1/4" ss pieces: 2 are longer and one 5" curved piece of  tubing.  The set
runs from the tank to the fuel pump of my TR3.  Does anyone have an idea what
order the 3 pieces are used in.
    Secondly, how do I join the three pieces?  compression fittings?  flares?

I suppose the best picture of the fuel line's routing is contained in the Moss
TR3 catalog...right?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey   60 TR3A

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Tue Mar 16 20:00:22 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 23:00:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Looking for Good Used TR4A Wire Wheel (15 x 4.5")
Message-ID: <4BA045C6.3010508@gmail.com>

I'm saving some budget $$$$ and am reusing my original wires for my 
TR4A.  Four of them checked out OK but the fifth had a few broken spokes 
and was quite rusty.  On trying to replace the broken spokes more broke 
and I'm giving up.  I'm looking for a good used wire to fill out the 
set, preferably near southern Indiana.  I hate to buy a new one, as I 
hope to replace them all in a year or two after the car is fully sorted 
out and my budget has recovered some.  Please let me know off list if 
you have something I can use.

Thanks, Ben......

Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Tue Mar 16 20:07:09 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 23:07:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Hood Sticks Color FollowUp
Message-ID: <4BA0475D.1030008@gmail.com>

Thanks for all the replies on the original hood sticks color.  The 
overwhelming consensus was that all original hoodsticks were a "tan" 
color.  Most said this was to match the underside of the original tops.  
I have two 30+ year old white tops, one that may be an original.  The 
apparently original one is tan on the inside and the  aftermarket top is 
black inside.  My new, white Robbins top is black inside.

After way too much thought and further consultation with my wife, I 
painted the sticks black this morning.  I decided to stick with the 
apparent "original intent" to match the inside of the top rather than 
stay with the original color.  Now I just have to install it.....

Ben.....

-- 
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue Mar 16 22:59:15 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:59:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] long TR4 inlet manifold in a TR3A/B ?
In-Reply-To: <48042.26812.qm@web112709.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <48042.26812.qm@web112709.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a06240800c7c61fb170fa@[192.168.2.2]>

Carbs will fit but not the front air filter, I got the real thin 
"Stella"  (siq) and still had to cut of a couple of inches to make it 
fit.  Good news is that the TR4   4-2-1 header will fit just fine.

Good Luck


>Hello,
>After over 6 years (I don't know the plural form of annus horibilis) I
>am back on tracks maintaining, driving (not quite yet but VERY soon) and
>upgrading my TR3A. I greet you all again.
>One of the projects I have is to
>improve the breathing of the engine. And I am toying with the idea of fitting
>a long TR4 manifold on the TR3. Not much clearance on the R/h inner fender
>side. The manifold really does look very long... really really long. I will
>make a direct comparison tomorrow at work between a extra regular manifold I
>have and that long one. I can probably shave a millimeter or 2 on each side,
>wedge the carb side and even maybe the engine side a bit. But will it suffice?
>Has anybody done this mod? Building an inlet air-streamed manifold from
>scratch seems no piece of cake. And I still got to have the colleague show me
>how to TIG aluminum...
>
>Cheers
>Frangois


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 17 03:46:55 2010
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 06:46:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Door Pulls
In-Reply-To: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC>
References: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC>
Message-ID: <89B95945117E47BCB1E782C3CED3D32E@Scott>

I have TR4 door pulls on my TR6 and love them. Had to use metal anchors in
the inner skin of the doors, but a pretty easy install.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 10:32 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6 pack
Subject: [TR] Door Pulls

I'm thinking of doing away with the stock interior door pull for the late
TR6
and try to find a retro-like pull handle. There's a bunch out there for MGB,
Sprite, TR4 etc but I'm hoping for one that would match up with the existing
screw holes that are 4-7/8" center to center. Has anybody done this or have
a
part# that would fit?

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 17 09:08:17 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 09:08:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear spring spacers
Message-ID: <946220.13389.qm@web113302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

the rear spring with the spacer goes on what side?
thanks
Frank

From elangtr4 at aol.com  Wed Mar 17 09:30:48 2010
From: elangtr4 at aol.com (elangtr4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:30:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Don't forget the insurance
Message-ID: <8CC9406562DB847-3E24-21D1@webmail-m006.sysops.aol.com>

When I switched from State Farm to Hagerty I got essentially the same coverage
plus towing for less money. The cost for Hagerty for a year was close to the
cost of State Farm for just driving season. (Plus the cool Hagerty magazine)
Now I don't need to remember to activate my insurance.

Eric L.
71 TR6

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Wed Mar 17 10:03:43 2010
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 10:03:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Door Pulls
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F10C3F014@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I too have fitted TR4 door pulls on my TR6.  Got tired of the tops
pulling loose.  I also replaced the door tops with the TR4 door top rail
so there is no place for someone to attempt to pull them.  They look
correct and fit well.
The TR6 and TR4 doors are identical, so hardware that holds the handle
on the TR4 should work on the TR6.

Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Mar 17 10:35:14 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 11:35:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Door Pulls
In-Reply-To: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC>
References: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC>
Message-ID: <DE0E59F0-12F7-48EF-BA1E-4DF61BA24EDD@comcast.net>

Bob,

I have the TR4 door pulls on my 6.  They were there when I bought the  
car so I'm not sure how they're attached but they are very handy and  
solid.  The top of the door where the TR6 vinyl/foam/hand pull was is  
painted body color.  I bought some replacement vinyl/foam/hand pull  
strips but never put them on but even if I did I think I'd still keep  
the TR4 pulls since they are so functional and they wouldn't have to  
be moved to accomadate the TR6 strips.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Mar 16, 2010, at 8:31 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:

> I'm thinking of doing away with the stock interior door pull for the  
> late TR6
> and try to find a retro-like pull handle. There's a bunch out there  
> for MGB,
> Sprite, TR4 etc but I'm hoping for one that would match up with the  
> existing
> screw holes that are 4-7/8" center to center. Has anybody done this  
> or have a
> part# that would fit?
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From blanoway at shaw.ca  Wed Mar 17 10:44:06 2010
From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:44:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 door pulls for your TR6
Message-ID: <2199E9F64BC7472CA5C87938741527AA@Lanowaylaptop>

Bob,

I too have used TR4 inside door pulls on my TR6.  They look correct, work
wonderfully and are easy to install.  To complete the look, on my 1973 TR6,
I also installed TR6 inner door panel caps without the finger pulls.

The bolt holes in the TR4 door handles line up exactly with the existing
holes in your inner door frame.  You just need to punch two holes in each
vinyl door panel for the bolts.

Heres a trick for adding threaded inserts to your inner door frame for the
handle mounting screws.  I used threaded inserts and a tool for electrical
chassis work (I have a friend who makes his own bass guitar amps and has the
tool)  Im not sure of the proper name for the inserts/tool.  The threaded
inserts install like pop rivets.  You can also use the folded metal tab
threaded inserts but the chassis inserts do a much better job.

Good luck with the install.  Youll appreciate the TR4 handles every time
you close your doors.

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg, Canada

--------------

>On March 16th, Bob Danielson wrote:

>I'm thinking of doing away with the stock interior door pull for the late
TR6 and try to find a retro-like pull handle. >There's a bunch out there for
MGB, Sprite, TR4 etc but I'm hoping for one that would match up with the
existing screw >holes that are 4-7/8" center to center. Has anybody done
this or have a part# that would fit?

From chandler.rick at comcast.net  Wed Mar 17 11:00:51 2010
From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 11:00:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] long TR4 inlet manifold in a TR3A/B ?
Message-ID: <E37BCB89CAAA433C9457535355AE6EDA@ricksoffice>

Francois,

 

The use of the superior TR4A intake manifold will bring performance benefits
to your TR3A. However, the mod is a bit more complicated than it appears; I
did it two years ago during my TR3A rebuild. Firstly, the TR4A intake AND
exhaust manifold must be mounted together, as they are interlaced. The TR4A
exhaust manifold is a superior design and is worth mounting on your Tr3A. I
can absolutely confirm that the TR3A intake is NOT compatible with the TR4A
exhaust manifold, and I believe that the converse is also true, but I
decided at the time to retain the TR4A exhaust and found a TR4A intake to
mount. If you go this route, you will need the Y-connector on the exhaust
pipes. Secondly, you will need to use HS6 carburetors. The throats of these
carbs were designed with the TR4A intake manifold in mind, and the ensemble
fits nicely in the TR3A engine compartment. I used thin air cleaners, but I
believe that the truncated-cone K&N cleaners will work as well. You will
also have to change the throttle linkage, as the HS6 carbs use a center-pull
arrangement. Jeff at PalTech can set up the linkage for you. Expect to pay
just south of a grand to get the whole system on your car. 

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 Triumph TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Vistor

1972 Norton 750 Commando Combat

1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Mar 17 11:13:39 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:13:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] long TR4 inlet manifold in a TR3A/B ?
In-Reply-To: <E37BCB89CAAA433C9457535355AE6EDA@ricksoffice>
References: <E37BCB89CAAA433C9457535355AE6EDA@ricksoffice>
Message-ID: <EB436B61-F7A3-4316-B0A2-93F3C481064D@comcast.net>

Rick wrote....."to retain the TR4A exhaust and found a TR4A intake to
>
> mount. If you go this route, you will need the Y-connector on the  
> exhaust
> pipes."

I have a brand new exhaust Y-connector for sale if anyone is  
interested in doing this conversion or if you simply need a Y-connector.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Mar 17, 2010, at 12:00 PM, Rick wrote:

> Francois,
>
>
>
> The use of the superior TR4A intake manifold will bring performance  
> benefits
> to your TR3A. However, the mod is a bit more complicated than it  
> appears; I
> did it two years ago during my TR3A rebuild. Firstly, the TR4A  
> intake AND
> exhaust manifold must be mounted together, as they are interlaced.  
> The TR4A
> exhaust manifold is a superior design and is worth mounting on your  
> Tr3A. I
> can absolutely confirm that the TR3A intake is NOT compatible with  
> the TR4A
> exhaust manifold, and I believe that the converse is also true, but I
> decided at the time to retain the TR4A exhaust and found a TR4A  
> intake to
> mount. If you go this route, you will need the Y-connector on the  
> exhaust
> pipes. Secondly, you will need to use HS6 carburetors. The throats  
> of these
> carbs were designed with the TR4A intake manifold in mind, and the  
> ensemble
> fits nicely in the TR3A engine compartment. I used thin air  
> cleaners, but I
> believe that the truncated-cone K&N cleaners will work as well. You  
> will
> also have to change the throttle linkage, as the HS6 carbs use a  
> center-pull
> arrangement. Jeff at PalTech can set up the linkage for you. Expect  
> to pay
> just south of a grand to get the whole system on your car.
>
>
>
> Rick in Seattle
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
>
> 1970 BSA 441 Vistor
>
> 1972 Norton 750 Commando Combat
>
> 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Wed Mar 17 11:15:19 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:15:19 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumph Tulips!
Message-ID: <1c116.3de597b8.38d27637@aol.com>

Hello all;
 
I thought perhaps it would be amusing to let everyone know that I was given 
 some used nursery crates recently, which we use extensively on our tree 
and  perennial farm. The sticker on one of them reads thus:
"White Triumphator Tulip Bulbs".
 
So, for all you fanatics of anything Triumph, perhaps you'd like to plant  
some "Triumphator" tulip bulbs!
 
There has to be a joke there somewhere regarding "Triumphator"? The  
challenge is on...  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 17 11:25:34 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 11:25:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear spring spacers
In-Reply-To: <946220.13389.qm@web113302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <946220.13389.qm@web113302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <01f401cac5ff$3c32b950$b4982bf0$@rr.com>

> the rear spring with the spacer goes on what side?

Passenger side.  The spacer lowers that side, in theory so the car sits
level with only a driver.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 17 11:45:26 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 11:45:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3 peices of fuel line?
In-Reply-To: <6087D46C22324FE1A174DB7A05B97A54@OwnerPC>
References: <6087D46C22324FE1A174DB7A05B97A54@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <01f601cac602$0326d030$09747090$@rr.com>

> The set
> runs from the tank to the fuel pump of my TR3.  Does anyone have an
> idea what order the 3 pieces are used in.

The short curved piece would be from the fuel tap to the flexible line to
the pump.  If your car is late enough to lack the fuel tap, then I think the
short piece is unused (and perhaps you have the wrong set for your car).

I don't know how to identify the other two pieces, but you might try
comparing them to the diagram in the Moss catalog.  The loops near where the
line attaches to the tank should be easily identifiable, even though they
will be a little different for your car than shown in the diagram.

>     Secondly, how do I join the three pieces

The front two pieces get joined by the fuel tap; the rear two by a
compression fitting.

-- Randall 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Mar 17 13:04:08 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 15:04:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph Tulips!
In-Reply-To: <1c116.3de597b8.38d27637@aol.com>
References: <1c116.3de597b8.38d27637@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B1224E4EFB624532BD31FBFA8E137497@ranteer.local>

next governor of california

--------------------------------------------------
From: <KingsCreekTrees at aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 1:15 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Triumph Tulips!

> Hello all;
>
> I thought perhaps it would be amusing to let everyone know that I was 
> given
> some used nursery crates recently, which we use extensively on our tree
> and  perennial farm. The sticker on one of them reads thus:
> "White Triumphator Tulip Bulbs".
>
> So, for all you fanatics of anything Triumph, perhaps you'd like to plant
> some "Triumphator" tulip bulbs!
>
> There has to be a joke there somewhere regarding "Triumphator"? The
> challenge is on...

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Wed Mar 17 13:15:41 2010
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:15:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Tabcon1 Photobucket Picture sequence---RATCO Frame
Message-ID: <250880.58152.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

3/17
Lists
The site above was pointed out by Bob Adams a day or so ago in an email about
Restomods.  ( http://s779.photobucket.com/albums/y77/Tabcon1/ ) and contained
photos of a very nice upgrade of the TR four cylinder motor---along with four
frames showing RATCO's newly manufactured frame for this TR4 "restomod".  I
noticed that a couple of the photos had a red cross bar spanning the rear
shock mounting brackets and since I also have one of Tony's (RATCO) new frames
for my "restomod TR2 project" I inquired about this unfamiliar connector
link.  Here is the story:  RATCO also makes tube shock conversion kits for
TR2/3b's and rear sway bar kits.  When the k as installed on some original
frame vehicles there were isolated incidents of the shock brackets breaking at
the frame joint, so RATCO set out to rectify the problem or stop selling the
kits for original framed cars (no problems with the new frames as they are
much stronger).  I will quote from Tony's
 response as follows;
 
"The rotation force of the lever shock on a stock frame is longitudinal and
the rotation of the tube shock conversion on the bracket/frame is transverse. 
That places a different set of forces on the frame rails which in any case,
connects the shock system to the structural base.  The new tube shock mounts
also have a longer are and hence a greater rotational torque.  In old frames,
if the weld between the shock bracket and frame has lost some structural
integrity, then the chance of a break is possible.  The red cross bar in the
photos on Tabcon1's site was designed to transfer some of the shock pulse to
the other side of the frame.  The forces in the tube conversion rotate around
the longitudinal axis so this brace transfers force to the opposite side
during a pulse to any one side.  When a simultaneous shock is hit, the effect
is nilled by the brace which then takes the full force of the pulse.  This
"fix" will not help however if an original
 frame is structurally unsound."
 
I am passing this information along in case anyone out there had preformed the
tube shock and or rear sway bar upgrades on an original frame TR and is
looking for a bit of "insurance" is unsure of their frames true condition. 
NFI

Regards,
Dan Cronin

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Mar 17 14:01:06 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:01:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph Tulips!
In-Reply-To: <1c116.3de597b8.38d27637@aol.com>
References: <1c116.3de597b8.38d27637@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003171401p2c910648qe5cbe8442231c786@mail.gmail.com>

On 3/17/10, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com <KingsCreekTrees at aol.com> wrote:
>
> There has to be a joke there somewhere regarding "Triumphator"? The
> challenge is on...

Whatever happened to your MG?...

From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 17 14:41:11 2010
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 17:41:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 door pulls for your TR6
In-Reply-To: <2199E9F64BC7472CA5C87938741527AA@Lanowaylaptop>
References: <2199E9F64BC7472CA5C87938741527AA@Lanowaylaptop>
Message-ID: <7bfc62291003171441r78f114afo9008162d3b04e470@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 1:44 PM, Brian Lanoway <blanoway at shaw.ca> wrote:

>
> Here s a trick for adding threaded inserts to your inner door frame for the
> handle mounting screws.  I used threaded inserts and a tool for electrical
> chassis work (I have a friend who makes his own bass guitar amps and has
> the
> tool)   I m not sure of the proper name for the inserts/tool.  The threaded
> inserts install like pop rivets.


Riv-Nuts is one name for them. Very handy for all sorts of places that need
a machine screw thread, but are blind.

--Phil
--'71 TR6 for 33 years

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 17 16:21:25 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 16:21:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 door pulls for your TR6
In-Reply-To: <7bfc62291003171441r78f114afo9008162d3b04e470@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2199E9F64BC7472CA5C87938741527AA@Lanowaylaptop>
	<7bfc62291003171441r78f114afo9008162d3b04e470@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001201cac628$9122aa00$b367fe00$@rr.com>

> Riv-Nuts is one name for them. Very handy for all sorts of places that
> need
> a machine screw thread, but are blind.

Horrible Freight sells a kit with a variety of the nuts, and an installation
tool.  Frequently on sale for $10, but apparently full price is $17:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1210

The tool is not absolutely necessary, you can set them with just a screw and
nut of the appropriate threads.

-- Randall 

From tom628 at verizon.net  Wed Mar 17 21:53:05 2010
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 00:53:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 door pulls for your TR6
References: <2199E9F64BC7472CA5C87938741527AA@Lanowaylaptop>
	<7bfc62291003171441r78f114afo9008162d3b04e470@mail.gmail.com>
	<001201cac628$9122aa00$b367fe00$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <B3BAA683E5BD4D3B96153F7C97AC1726@Toms>

Randall, maybe I got a bad atch , but every tinme I've tried to use those HF 
nuts  they've stripped on instaallation. Not so with regular aircraft 
Rivnuts, avaiable thru Aircraft spruce, eg.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Triumphs Digest'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 door pulls for your TR6


>> Riv-Nuts is one name for them. Very handy for all sorts of places that
>> need
>> a machine screw thread, but are blind.
>
> Horrible Freight sells a kit with a variety of the nuts, and an 
> installation
> tool.  Frequently on sale for $10, but apparently full price is $17:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1210
>
> The tool is not absolutely necessary, you can set them with just a screw 
> and
> nut of the appropriate threads.
>
> -- Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 18 00:04:28 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 00:04:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] No LBC ...Nostalgia
Message-ID: <a0624080cc7c7808ea8bd@[192.168.2.2]>

Anyone remember these, from Road & Track when it was a fun magazine. 
Specs by Stan Mott


	http://sbiii.com/cyclops/cyclopix/miscel03.jpg
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From tartanredmgb at gmail.com  Thu Mar 18 00:21:23 2010
From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 00:21:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] anyone in Charlotte NC?
Message-ID: <b6464ee41003180021h22816133wa0c3abded27adf4d@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,
There is a TR4A on the VTR for sale in Charlotte.  I was wondering if
there is anyone that might take a look at it for me.  Thanks!

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Mar 18 05:06:47 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 08:06:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 door pulls for your TR6
Message-ID: <80b8d.fad753e.38d37157@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/17/2010 6:21:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> Horrible Freight sells a kit with a variety of the nuts, and an 
> installation
> tool.  Frequently on sale for $10, but apparently full price is $17:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1210
> 
> The tool is not absolutely necessary, you can set them with just a screw 
> and
> nut of the appropriate threads.
> 

If you can keep them from spinning.  Lubricate the threads well.

But at $17 get the tool.  That's cheap considering that the RivNut(R) tool 
is over $100.  This tool won't last as long but if you're only setting a 
dozen or so it should be good enough.

Dave

From fwildi at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 18 05:18:27 2010
From: fwildi at yahoo.com (francois wildi)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 05:18:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] long TR4 inlet manifold in a TR3A/B ?
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003161831i25bbadbqc44868c49f5c66b7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <86911.57673.qm@web112703.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hello,
Yes I measured 80mm height on the regular and 115 on the long one. Gee.
Yes, by wedge I mean adjusting the angle of the carb flange which more vertical on the TR4.

I went to show my project to the guys at our mechanical shop downstairs. For some reason, they always have a kind of a grin when they see me coming with old hardware. But they are always ready to help. The present idea is to saw off the cylinder head side flanges, shorten the tubes a bit, may be 15mm (they are nearly straight on the head side), counter sink the flanges a bit and TIG weld it back to the tubes. I love this idea! I had one mechanics promise me he'd teach me how to TIG weld. We were just waiting for an opportunity.

We'll see what reasonably feasible. And then I'll see if I can fit my K+N, my 2" horns or whatever else on the carbs inlet.

Cheers
Francois

--- On Wed, 3/17/10, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] long TR4 inlet manifold in a TR3A/B ?
> To: "francois wildi" <fwildi at yahoo.com>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, March 17, 2010, 2:31 AM
> Oh my.. a voice from the distant
> past!
> 
> I just did a quick rough comparison and it looks to me like
> the TR3
> manifold is 3.75" v the TR4's 5.125" -- a lot of extra
> distance to
> squeeze in there.
> 
> By 'wedge the carb side' are you referring to the need to
> get the H6
> carb at the correct angle (since the TR4 manifold presents
> a nearly
> vertical surface)?
> 
> Sounds to me like you're going to end up with a 'power
> bulge' someplace.
> 
> Geo
> 
> On 3/16/10, francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> > ...the idea of fitting
> > a long TR4 manifold on the TR3. Not much clearance on
> the R/h inner fender
> > side. The manifold really does look very long...
> really really long. I will
> > make a direct comparison tomorrow at work between a
> extra regular manifold I
> > have and that long one. I can probably shave a
> millimeter or 2 on each side,
> > wedge the carb side and even maybe the engine side a
> bit. But will it
> > suffice?

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Thu Mar 18 06:17:22 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 09:17:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 on TV
Message-ID: <766b2.7859d039.38d381e2@aol.com>

List,
 
We (believe or not, my wife actually spotted it almost as quickly as I  
did!!!), spotted a red TR6 in the new TV series called Parenthood which airs on 
 Tuesday evenings.
 
The character driving the car had his son in the passenger seat who had a  
little stomach problem (threw up) in the car.  I think antique &  classic 
cars are rented to movie & TV networks for shows......I  wouldn't mind having 
my TR6 in a movie or as a snipet on a TV show but I'd  have to draw the line 
on vomit on my nice light tan interior!!!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 18 07:24:11 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 07:24:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 door pulls for your TR6
In-Reply-To: <B3BAA683E5BD4D3B96153F7C97AC1726@Toms>
References: <2199E9F64BC7472CA5C87938741527AA@Lanowaylaptop><7bfc62291003171441r78f114afo9008162d3b04e470@mail.gmail.com><001201cac628$9122aa00$b367fe00$@rr.com>
	<B3BAA683E5BD4D3B96153F7C97AC1726@Toms>
Message-ID: <172101cac6a6$ae147ed0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Randall, maybe I got a bad atch , but every tinme I've tried 
> to use those HF 
> nuts  they've stripped on instaallation. 

Well, I suppose there is a reason they are so cheap.  I've stripped a few of
them, but mine have mostly worked.  Most recently, I used them to hold the
grille on the project TR3 (which has a 3A front apron on it).

No doubt the ones from AS are better quality.

Randall

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Mar 18 07:46:43 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 07:46:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Leg Warmers for TR3
Message-ID: <830298.5190.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     As a sailplane pilot I used to keep marino wool "leggings" in the plane.
I could take off in Minden, NV on a 100 degree day wearing shorts and when it
cooled down at 20,000 feet I could pull on these bicycling leggings to keep my
legs warm.
     There is still some snow on the mountains near my house. I work in
Mojave, CA. It'll be in the 40's at my house in the mornings and in the 70's
when I get to work. The weather is clear and too nice to have the top up in
the TR3. This morning I drove in wearing a hooded Carhart coat and a leather
coat over my legs to keep them warm. I am wondering what others do. I am
thinking about hitting up the Salvation Army or swap meets and looking for a
long coat and using that when my legs or passengers legs get cold.
     Anyone else doing something similar?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Mar 18 07:50:07 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 07:50:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
Message-ID: <996439.81041.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     The one thing that fries my a$$ is when an onlooker asks me if I built my
car (a TR3) myself from a kit. It's a thoroughbred man!
     It's even worse than having them ask what year MG it is.
     This is today's rant.

     Bill in Tehachapi

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Mar 18 08:01:59 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 11:01:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
Message-ID: <51b32.587ae591.38d39a67@aol.com>

Nice one. The one that gets me is teenage girls that shout "that's soooo  
CUTE!"
 
OK, I abbreviated that. It's more along the lines of  "Like,  that's so, 
like, totally, awesomely, like, CUTE"  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Mar 18 08:57:35 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 08:57:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Leg Warmers for TR3
In-Reply-To: <830298.5190.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <830298.5190.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003180857s17a742b7xf39b71ce3269f99f@mail.gmail.com>

>... thinking about hitting up the Salvation Army or swap meets and looking for a
> long coat and using that when my legs or passengers legs get cold.
> Anyone else doing something similar?

The top is just for pouring rain (and optional then) so I often drive
the open TR3 in sub-freezing mornings.  On the coldest of those I just
use a lap rug (old wool blanket) over the legs.

Well, it'll be 86 here today so I think I can save blanket for
crawling inder the car.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 18 09:10:42 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 09:10:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
In-Reply-To: <996439.81041.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <996439.81041.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <175901cac6b5$8f88ae00$0301a8c0@randall>

>      The one thing that fries my a$$ is when an onlooker asks 
> me if I built my
> car (a TR3) myself from a kit. It's a thoroughbred man!

I think you're looking at it the wrong way, Bill.  Way I see it, I did build
mine from a kit; AFTER having to gather together the parts of the kit!
http://tinyurl.com/y8hk7rr

I hadn't been asked if it was an MG for a long time, but yesterday this
rather cute blond yelled out her SUV window at me.  I don't mind at all!

It's great to be back to driving it all the time.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Mar 18 09:23:22 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 12:23:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
Message-ID: <971a3.5e894cf5.38d3ad7a@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/18/2010 11:11:10 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> I hadn't been asked if it was an MG for a long time, but yesterday this
> rather cute blond yelled out her SUV window at me.  I don't mind at all!
> 
I guess it depends on what they yell.  ;-)

Dave

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Mar 18 09:29:14 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 09:29:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
In-Reply-To: <971a3.5e894cf5.38d3ad7a@cs.com>
References: <971a3.5e894cf5.38d3ad7a@cs.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003180929r2f378476qd20cda4b0340ff2e@mail.gmail.com>

I find that the TR3 is definitely a chick magnet.

Sadly, it seems the ladies it attracts are all under age 10 or over 60.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 18 10:09:46 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 10:09:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
In-Reply-To: <971a3.5e894cf5.38d3ad7a@cs.com>
References: <971a3.5e894cf5.38d3ad7a@cs.com>
Message-ID: <01a001cac6bd$cfd9da80$6f8d8f80$@rr.com>

> I guess it depends on what they yell.  ;-)

The actual exchange went something like "Hey, is that an MG?" "No, it's a
Triumph." "Sweet!"

I didn't get a good look, as traffic had started to move, but she was
definitely in the right age range to tickle my fancy.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 18 10:19:39 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 10:19:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Leg Warmers for TR3
In-Reply-To: <830298.5190.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <830298.5190.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <01a101cac6bf$31245bc0$936d1340$@rr.com>

> I am
> thinking about hitting up the Salvation Army or swap meets and looking
> for a long coat and using that when my legs or passengers legs get cold.

I carry a "lap robe" (actually just a cheap blanket from Wally mart) for my
chilly passengers.

But for myself, I find that as long as my upper body is warm enough, my legs
aren't a problem.  So the leather coat, hat & gloves are enough for me.

Just a thought, you might look at leather motorcycle chaps.  Leather works
better at blocking high velocity wind than anything else I've found.

-- Randall 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 18 10:30:05 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 10:30:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Leg Warmers for TR3
In-Reply-To: <01a101cac6bf$31245bc0$936d1340$@rr.com>
References: <830298.5190.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<01a101cac6bf$31245bc0$936d1340$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <681808.26898.qm@web113306.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

i don't have a tonneau cover yet. but i remember from my time back home how
warm and cosy i could stay driving a sports car with tonneau open just enough
for me and the heater full on
and the reason i don't have a tonneau is the
$$$, so maybe the blanket will have to do for now.
Frank
________________________________
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, March 18, 2010 10:19:39 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Leg Warmers for TR3

> I am
> thinking about hitting up the
Salvation Army or swap meets and looking
> for a long coat and using that when
my legs or passengers legs get cold.

I carry a "lap robe" (actually just a
cheap blanket from Wally mart) for my
chilly passengers.

But for myself, I
find that as long as my upper body is warm enough, my legs
aren't a problem. 
So the leather coat, hat & gloves are enough for me.

Just a thought, you
might look at leather motorcycle chaps.  Leather works
better at blocking high
velocity wind than anything else I've found.

-- Randall
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Mar 18 10:31:47 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 10:31:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Leg Warmers for TR3
In-Reply-To: <01a101cac6bf$31245bc0$936d1340$@rr.com>
References: <830298.5190.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<01a101cac6bf$31245bc0$936d1340$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003181031y10c37b8emb3d39c85236d6fdf@mail.gmail.com>

On 3/18/10, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>...Leather works better at blocking high velocity wind than anything else I've found.

Leather is our friend.  No wonder cows stay outside in the cold.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/brrrr.JPG

Geo

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Thu Mar 18 11:14:19 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:14:19 EDT
Subject: [TR] Long Intake on a TR3
Message-ID: <97f72.20760c2e.38d3c77b@aol.com>

Dunno if they will clear the hood of a TR3, but I bought some offset K&N 
air cleaners from APT awhile back.   They move the filter body UP at least an 
inch from the centerline of the carb.   LOTS of clearance with the fender 
now.   Oh, yeah, these are on a TR4A so they clear the hood where the bulge 
is.   Good luck!
George

From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net  Thu Mar 18 12:11:07 2010
From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 15:11:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
Message-ID: <001c01cac6ce$c35fab70$4a1f0250$@net>

Yeah, when I first got my TR3 I took the boss out for a ride one lunch hour.
We were at this traffic light and this serious babe pulls up alongside, also
in a convertible, and starts chatting to me.  (I actually got a bit
embarrassed and must have been bright red in the face - I was hoping for the
traffic light to hurry up and change).

Anyways, we get back to work and the boss turns to me and says "Jones, you
are my hero."  Ha!

 

Cheers

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Mar 18 14:38:49 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 17:38:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
In-Reply-To: <01a001cac6bd$cfd9da80$6f8d8f80$@rr.com>
References: <971a3.5e894cf5.38d3ad7a@cs.com>
	<01a001cac6bd$cfd9da80$6f8d8f80$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CC94FA87FBCB51-21A8-10AF0@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com>

The actual exchange went something like "Hey, is that an MG?" "No, it's a
Triumph." "Sweet!"







 That's good.  It could have gone differently.  And being SoCal it could have
gone "Get that polution factory off the road!"  ;-)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Mar 18 15:44:34 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 22:44:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Leg Warmers for TR3
In-Reply-To: <830298.5190.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <45881443.6809751268952274281.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>The weather is clear and too nice to have the top up in
>the TR3. This morning I drove in wearing a hooded Carhart coat and a leather
>coat over my legs to keep them warm. I am wondering what others do.B B B 
-Bill in Tehachapi



Oh Bill, Bill, Bill.B  The weather is too nice to have the top up in the
morning?B  May I suggest the New England solution to your problem.B  Do like I
do and build a small bonfire in the cockpit.B  Subscribe to the Congressional
Quarterly and you'll have plenty to burn without wasting a thought.B  Is this
green?B  Heck yea!B  I own a tree farm!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

NewB  Hamsphire, where mud season, believe it or not, is almost done!

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Mar 18 15:50:35 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 22:50:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
In-Reply-To: <175901cac6b5$8f88ae00$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1025872755.6812011268952635231.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>It's great to be back to driving it all the time.

Welcome back, Randall!B  It's been a time coming!B  Nice car.

Next thing, you'll be telling us you know something about these cars?????



Terry

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Mar 18 16:50:20 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 17:50:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] Leg Warmers for TR3
In-Reply-To: <830298.5190.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <830298.5190.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4BA2BC3C.6050809@bradakis.com>

This discussion reminds me of various cars of mine.  I remember driving to
the U of Utah in the Rust Rocket, then later The White Car, top down, 
tonneau
in place, heater wheezing along as best it could, me scraping the inside 
of the
windshield for as clear a view as could be managed.

And that one winter when a friend and I took a skiing class up in the hills,
and those days we drove the TR6 up there with the top down, our skies poking
proudly out the back.  We got some interesting looks.  Wish I had some
pictures.


mjb.

From jr468 at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 18 18:18:08 2010
From: jr468 at hotmail.com (John Reed)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 21:18:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] new wheels on the TR3
Message-ID: <BLU105-W197DDFC4E2A3BC4ACDC0FFED2A0@phx.gbl>

I now have my new 72 spoke 15x5.5" painted wire wheels with Vredestein
185/70R15 sprint tires on my TR3.  I really like 'em.  I was concerned the
spoke pattern might look too tight on a TR3.  I like the look.  It's even
better in person than in photos.  Compared to the 165 tires on disc wheels I
think these stick out more than the 10mm I was expecting (half the increase in
tire width).  Maybe the wire wheel offset is different.  The tires stick out
slightly wider than the lower part of the fender behind the rear wheel.  The
tread portion is inside the fender.  The 165s were completely inside the
fenders.  Given that I generally like an original look I'm surprised that I
don't think this looks bad at all.  It gives it a more aggressive stance, but
I think it still fits the car.  Maybe I don't mind the look because the tires
on modern cars are out even further and I'm used to that.  I also think the
wider tires give the car a better look when viewing straight on the front and
rear.



I haven't had a chance to really test the handling at high speed cornering and
curves.  From the driving I have done I have less tire squeal on fast turns
and the car seems to better go where I point it.  But I haven't tried it
enough to know for sure.  I do know that nothing about the handling is worse.
Low speed turning is as easy as ever.  (Rebuilt worm and peg box).  There's no
reduced quickness from wider tires either.  And the best part is no more 50
mph scuttle shake.  What a difference new, round wheels make.  Also no
interference with the tires on full turns.  The 185s fit comfortably.



Thanks again to everyone that told me wider tires are the way to go!

John

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Mar 18 21:57:47 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 04:57:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Triumph Stag photo group on Flickr
In-Reply-To: f5b39dbffa9088777772bf0ea86a865b.stag
Message-ID: <1300114653.3749921268974667206.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I started a photo group on Flickr just for Stags.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphstagcars

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham 7
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Mar 19 08:02:27 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 10:02:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Ignition wires
Message-ID: <1092626786.843314.1269010947536.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>


From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Mar 19 08:40:39 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:40:39 +0000
Subject: [TR]  Onlookers Questions
In-Reply-To: <01a001cac6bd$cfd9da80$6f8d8f80$@rr.com>
References: <971a3.5e894cf5.38d3ad7a@cs.com>,
	<01a001cac6bd$cfd9da80$6f8d8f80$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W34060D1E5724BD035A106DE52A0@phx.gbl>

One afternoon I exited a restaurant to find a drop dead beautiful blond ogling
my TR3A.  She said it was the most beautiful car she had ever seen.  We talked
for a moment and then she said I should get to work.  Since she was all of 17
I said probably a good idea.

Best regards,

Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 19 08:45:52 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 08:45:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
In-Reply-To: <1025872755.6812011268952635231.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <175901cac6b5$8f88ae00$0301a8c0@randall>
	<1025872755.6812011268952635231.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001801cac77b$41b77f50$0301a8c0@randall>

> Next thing, you'll be telling us you know something about 
> these cars?????

Well, I might have picked up a few things along the way:

Tab A almost never goes in slot B.

It always takes longer and costs more than you expected.

The road to Hades starts with the words "While it's apart, I might as well".

And Lucas electrics never work after the smoke leaks out!

Randall

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Mar 19 08:55:17 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 08:55:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
In-Reply-To: <001801cac77b$41b77f50$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <175901cac6b5$8f88ae00$0301a8c0@randall>
	<1025872755.6812011268952635231.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<001801cac77b$41b77f50$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <971943.11525.qm@web113309.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Randall said "And Lucas electrics never work after the smoke leaks out!"
for
those who remember the ebay listing of a bottle of NOS Lucas smoke. my friend
just sent me the pages of questions and answers that went with that listing.
still laughing hard at the sillyness.
contact me if you want to read them
again..its worth it
frank


________________________________
From: Randall
<tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, March
19, 2010 8:45:52 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Onlookers Questions

> Next thing,
you'll be telling us you know something about 
> these cars?????

Well, I
might have picked up a few things along the way:

Tab A almost never goes in
slot B.

It always takes longer and costs more than you expected.

The road to
Hades starts with the words "While it's apart, I might as well".

And Lucas
electrics never work after the smoke leaks out!

Randall
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Mar 19 09:06:01 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 11:06:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
In-Reply-To: <971943.11525.qm@web113309.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <175901cac6b5$8f88ae00$0301a8c0@randall><1025872755.6812011268952635231.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><001801cac77b$41b77f50$0301a8c0@randall>
	<971943.11525.qm@web113309.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3707390E5DA447659DA6C8D2DE0C69EC@ranteer.local>

remember -  when you are to do car, house, boat, whatever renovations, 
always get 3 bids.





then add them all up and that is what it is going to cost you.




--------------------------------------------------
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 10:55 AM
To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Onlookers Questions

> Randall said "And Lucas electrics never work after the smoke leaks out!"
> for
> those who remember the ebay listing of a bottle of NOS Lucas smoke. my 
> friend
> just sent me the pages of questions and answers that went with that 
> listing.
> still laughing hard at the sillyness.
> contact me if you want to read them
> again..its worth it
> frank

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Mar 19 10:16:58 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 11:16:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] Onlookers Questions
In-Reply-To: <001801cac77b$41b77f50$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <175901cac6b5$8f88ae00$0301a8c0@randall>
	<1025872755.6812011268952635231.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<001801cac77b$41b77f50$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <4BA3B18A.8070908@bradakis.com>

> The road to Hades starts with the words "While it's apart, I might as well".
>
>   

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=32


mjb.

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Mar 19 14:43:49 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 17:43:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Ignition wires
Message-ID: <413B297B42124B09902C47018A07A861@CarlPC>

Try again - tried emailing through the web interface - evidently didn't work.
Thanks Tim

What is the correct routing of the ignition wires including the direction that
the 'coil' wire points out of the distributor cap?  I have about 6 photos of
car engines and no two are the same.   Instruction manual is useless (or at
least I couldn't find any images)

Also, does anyone have the lengths each of the wires should be?
Thanks a bunch..

Carl
TS81802LO on the 'road' to recovery......
----- Original Message -----
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com
To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Ignition wires


Hi there;

No text from you in this e-mail. Was something missing?

Tim

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Mar 19 15:28:51 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 16:28:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <413B297B42124B09902C47018A07A861@CarlPC>
References: <413B297B42124B09902C47018A07A861@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <8D0B98A7A44D45F7BD1E57E8109E66AE@bboffice>

Distributor should point away from the engine, at least in my car and the
manual it is that way.  Lengths are pretty straight forward, just remember
the firing order is 1-3-4-2 (front-to-back), and cut your lengths
accordingly so that they can be routed comfortably

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 3:44 PM
To: triumph list
Subject: [TR] Fw: Ignition wires

Try again - tried emailing through the web interface - evidently didn't
work.
Thanks Tim

What is the correct routing of the ignition wires including the direction
that the 'coil' wire points out of the distributor cap?  I have about 6
photos of
car engines and no two are the same.   Instruction manual is useless (or at
least I couldn't find any images)

Also, does anyone have the lengths each of the wires should be?
Thanks a bunch..

Carl
TS81802LO on the 'road' to recovery......
----- Original Message -----
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com
To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Ignition wires


Hi there;

No text from you in this e-mail. Was something missing?

Tim

_______________________________________________
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 19 15:30:45 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:30:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <413B297B42124B09902C47018A07A861@CarlPC>
References: <413B297B42124B09902C47018A07A861@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <003001cac7b3$d18d9230$74a8b690$@rr.com>

> What is the correct routing of the ignition wires including the
> direction that
> the 'coil' wire points out of the distributor cap?  I have about 6
> photos of
> car engines and no two are the same.   Instruction manual is useless
> (or at
> least I couldn't find any images)

Assuming this is for a TR3/A/B, there is a photograph in "Practical Hints".
Page 32 of the 6th edition, page 27 of the edition shown in the Bentley
(2nd, I think), or page 37 of the Bentley itself.

But of course it shows right angle connectors on the plugs; while I am using
straight connectors.  Sorry, no idea about the lengths.

-- Randall 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Mar 19 16:05:14 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 16:05:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <8D0B98A7A44D45F7BD1E57E8109E66AE@bboffice>
References: <413B297B42124B09902C47018A07A861@CarlPC>
	<8D0B98A7A44D45F7BD1E57E8109E66AE@bboffice>
Message-ID: <a0624080cc7c9b36fcb34@[192.168.2.2]>

Or buy a set of Magnacors and end all your problems ...






>Distributor should point away from the engine, at least in my car and the
>manual it is that way.  Lengths are pretty straight forward, just remember
>the firing order is 1-3-4-2 (front-to-back), and cut your lengths
>accordingly so that they can be routed comfortably
>
>Bill
>
>Bill Beecher
>'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
>"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
>course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Mar 19 16:38:14 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 18:38:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] the restoration from hell
Message-ID: <60BE4D1438314B02B7204522A2428FB0@ranteer.local>

has been promoted to the restoration from purgatory . . .

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/IM002241.jpg

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Mar 19 16:57:08 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 17:57:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] the restoration from hell
In-Reply-To: <60BE4D1438314B02B7204522A2428FB0@ranteer.local>
References: <60BE4D1438314B02B7204522A2428FB0@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <99CD340F652C43E880C6A7D1272D344D@bboffice>

Beautiful!! 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 5:38 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] the restoration from hell

has been promoted to the restoration from purgatory . . .

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/IM002241.jpg

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Mar 19 16:57:20 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 16:57:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] the restoration from hell
In-Reply-To: <60BE4D1438314B02B7204522A2428FB0@ranteer.local>
References: <60BE4D1438314B02B7204522A2428FB0@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <39814FEAB4EA4F468A593C829C6F3B45@joepentiumnew>

Looks like a nice "Heavenly" blue to me!  :)

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 4:38 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] the restoration from hell

has been promoted to the restoration from purgatory . . .

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/IM002241.jpg

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Mar 19 18:19:56 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 18:19:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <a0624080cc7c9b36fcb34@192.168.2.2>
References: <413B297B42124B09902C47018A07A861@CarlPC>
	<8D0B98A7A44D45F7BD1E57E8109E66AE@bboffice>
	<a0624080cc7c9b36fcb34@192.168.2.2>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003191819w502cac8cv6e36a18293e5f657@mail.gmail.com>

Since mine don't match I guess I don't know, though that pic in the
Practical Hints sure looks tidy.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3Wires.JPG
http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR4Wires.JPG

Exact orientation of the dizzy depends of course of which tooth on the
gear you end up on when you slip it in -- but generally you're trying
to get the rotor pointed at #1 spark plug at TDC.

I like to make my wires fairly short -- that way there is only one way
they can all be connected (i.e. wires #1 & #2 can only reach their
correct plugs, then #3 can only go to the 3rd plug and that just
leaves #4 to hook up).  Almost foolproof.

I think those little straps holding a group of the wires may have been
original but not 100% sure.

On the TR4 the coil had to be mounted with the CB wire having the long
reach as the SW wire wasn't long enough to get to the far side of the
coil.  On the TR3 it made more sense to mount the coil with the CB
post forward and looks better too I think.

Geo

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Mar 19 18:27:33 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 21:27:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tidy, was Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003191819w502cac8cv6e36a18293e5f657@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a0624080cc7c9b36fcb34@192.168.2.2>
Message-ID: <4BA3EC45.30207.14192568@localhost>

On 19 Mar 2010 at 18:19, Geo Hahn wrote:

> Since mine don't match I guess I don't know, though that pic in the
> Practical Hints sure looks tidy.

Too tidy.

How do you folks keep your engine compartment looking shiny?  I drive 
my cars.  So they pick up road dirt, sand, oil stains, discoloration 
from heat, etc.  Engine cleaning isn't going to remove heat 
discoloration or keep chrome totally monochrome, so to speak.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Mar 20 05:54:22 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 12:54:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] the restoration from hell
In-Reply-To: <60BE4D1438314B02B7204522A2428FB0@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <1855867902.7338671269089662523.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>has been promoted to the restoration from purgatory . . .


This has been a long time coming, and well, well worth it.B  Exquisite!



Terry

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 20 07:22:22 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 07:22:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tidy, was Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <4BA3EC45.30207.14192568@localhost>
References: <a0624080cc7c9b36fcb34@192.168.2.2>
	<4BA3EC45.30207.14192568@localhost>
Message-ID: <017b01cac838$c20a2910$0301a8c0@randall>

> How do you folks keep your engine compartment looking shiny?  

Obviously, you've not seen my engine compartment !

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Mar 20 08:00:46 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:00:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tidy, was Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <4BA3EC45.30207.14192568@localhost>
References: <a0624080cc7c9b36fcb34@192.168.2.2>,
	<4BA3EC45.30207.14192568@localhost>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W42C1434C4BF57A5BB471BE5290@phx.gbl>

Actually I like to braid mine from the dist cap to just before they separate
for the spark plugs.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_1

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Mar 20 09:33:17 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 12:33:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tidy, was Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W42C1434C4BF57A5BB471BE5290@phx.gbl>
References: <4BA3EC45.30207.14192568@localhost>
Message-ID: <4BA4C08D.8015.17566177@localhost>

On 20 Mar 2010 at 15:00, tom white wrote:

> Actually I like to braid mine from the dist cap to just before
> they separate for the spark plugs.

I assume by "mine" you mean your plug wires.  Someone once told me 
that the reason for using those little plastic spacers to hold the 
plug wires apart was to avoid cross-induction between them.  I would 
have thought maybe that meant spark jumping across the insulation of 
two wires touching each other.  If induction is a problem then you've 
got a really powerful coil, and if direct transmission is a problem 
then it's time to change wires.  If either case is possible, and I'm 
not convinced it is likely, it argues against braiding the wires 
together.  Maybe your experience suggests it isn't a problem.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Mar 20 12:42:56 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 12:42:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tidy, was Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <4BA3EC45.30207.14192568@localhost>
References: <a0624080cc7c9b36fcb34@192.168.2.2>
	<3b0049461003191819w502cac8cv6e36a18293e5f657@mail.gmail.com>
	<4BA3EC45.30207.14192568@localhost>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003201242o43a94ce8y7e670ef6f2dea65a@mail.gmail.com>

On 3/19/10, Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

> How do you folks keep your engine compartment looking shiny?

One day when I had both engine compartments fairly clean I took a set
of pictures of each from every possible angle.  When I need a photo
for some purpose (such as ignition wire layout) I select the
appropriate shot and crop for what I need.  That way my engine always
looks fairly clean in topical photos.

My everyday car is the Triumph so day-to-day the engine compartment
looks pretty much as you would expect.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 20 14:58:14 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 14:58:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tidy, was Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <4BA4C08D.8015.17566177@localhost>
References: <4BA3EC45.30207.14192568@localhost>
	<4BA4C08D.8015.17566177@localhost>
Message-ID: <01cd01cac878$70d776c0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Someone once told me 
> that the reason for using those little plastic spacers to hold the 
> plug wires apart was to avoid cross-induction between them.  I would 
> have thought maybe that meant spark jumping across the insulation of 
> two wires touching each other.

No, the insulation is supposed to be sufficient to prevent that.  In fact,
some of those separators are made of metal rather than plastic ... they are
usually plastic only because it's cheaper.

In this case, induction refers to the change in current in one wire causing
(inducing) a current in another wire.  Every time a spark plug fires, it
goes from being effectively an open circuit with 10 thousand volts or more;
to a direct short (the spark is actually a lower resistance conductor than
copper).  So the current in the plug wire goes from nearly nothing to a
fairly high value as most of the energy stored in the ignition coil's field
gets dumped into the spark.

> If either case is possible, and I'm 
> not convinced it is likely, it argues against braiding the wires 
> together.  

Induction is rarely a problem on a 4-cylinder 4-stroke anyway.  With, for
example, #1 firing, #2 will be at the end of the power stroke, and #4 at the
end of the exhaust stroke.  No problem with a spark, as what's in there
won't burn anyway.  (Some ignition systems even deliberately fire #4 at the
same time as #1.)  #3 will be the only other cylinder with even a
theoretically flammable mixture, but in practice it won't burn at that
point.

It's much more of a problem with a V8, where whenever a cylinder fires,
there is another cylinder with a flammable mixture under compression.  If it
gets lit, that cylinder tries to run backwards.

Randall

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Mar 20 15:30:05 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 16:30:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear Trans seal
Message-ID: <140032CFD3664F2481ED5AF050BD9595@bboffice>

In the never-ending quest for a dry garage floor have noticed a slight drip
from the rear of my non-overdrive transmission.  My question is: Can I
disconnect the driveline and slightly elevate the transmission tailshaft and
replace the seal 'in situ'?
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Mar 20 19:58:18 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 22:58:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003191819w502cac8cv6e36a18293e5f657@mail.gmail.com>
References: <413B297B42124B09902C47018A07A861@CarlPC>
	<8D0B98A7A44D45F7BD1E57E8109E66AE@bboffice>
	<a0624080cc7c9b36fcb34@192.168.2.2>
	<3b0049461003191819w502cac8cv6e36a18293e5f657@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F6BA0C08266E42BB8CDEBFD14B3E3682@CarlPC>

Thanks for the pictures George -
Do you (or anyone else) know where to get the wire holder?

It is interesting that three of the four caps I have (including the two that 
have Lucas molded in them) have the coil wire pointing toward the front of 
the engine not perpendicular to it.

Thanks again
Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 9:19 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Ignition wires


> Since mine don't match I guess I don't know, though that pic in the
> Practical Hints sure looks tidy.
>
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3Wires.JPG
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR4Wires.JPG
>
> Exact orientation of the dizzy depends of course of which tooth on the
> gear you end up on when you slip it in -- but generally you're trying
> to get the rotor pointed at #1 spark plug at TDC.
>
> I like to make my wires fairly short -- that way there is only one way
> they can all be connected (i.e. wires #1 & #2 can only reach their
> correct plugs, then #3 can only go to the 3rd plug and that just
> leaves #4 to hook up).  Almost foolproof.
>
> I think those little straps holding a group of the wires may have been
> original but not 100% sure.
>
> On the TR4 the coil had to be mounted with the CB wire having the long
> reach as the SW wire wasn't long enough to get to the far side of the
> coil.  On the TR3 it made more sense to mount the coil with the CB
> post forward and looks better too I think.
>
> Geo
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 20 21:35:18 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 21:35:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <F6BA0C08266E42BB8CDEBFD14B3E3682@CarlPC>
References: <413B297B42124B09902C47018A07A861@CarlPC><8D0B98A7A44D45F7BD1E57E8109E66AE@bboffice><a0624080cc7c9b36fcb34@192.168.2.2><3b0049461003191819w502cac8cv6e36a18293e5f657@mail.gmail.com>
	<F6BA0C08266E42BB8CDEBFD14B3E3682@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <022a01cac8af$e91b8f90$0301a8c0@randall>

> It is interesting that three of the four caps I have 
> (including the two that 
> have Lucas molded in them) have the coil wire pointing toward 
> the front of 
> the engine not perpendicular to it.

Keep in mind that Lucas supplied parts to essentially all British car
makers.  Those oddball caps are from some other car.  (Might be MG-T series,
as ISTR one of them had the distributor cap very close to a frame rail or
something.)

Randall

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Mar 21 14:50:22 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 14:50:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <F6BA0C08266E42BB8CDEBFD14B3E3682@CarlPC>
References: <413B297B42124B09902C47018A07A861@CarlPC>
	<8D0B98A7A44D45F7BD1E57E8109E66AE@bboffice>
	<a0624080cc7c9b36fcb34@192.168.2.2>
	<3b0049461003191819w502cac8cv6e36a18293e5f657@mail.gmail.com>
	<F6BA0C08266E42BB8CDEBFD14B3E3682@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003211450v4d289ad2h3a8cc38bfdf3acf1@mail.gmail.com>

On 3/20/10, Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:
> Do you (or anyone else) know where to get the wire holder?...

If you're refering to those black straps that hold the wiring loom in
a few places and the ignition wires as a group...

On the TR4 it still had a bunch of them from original but the one in
the TR3 pic I made using an original as a pattern.  As I recall I
tried sheet rubber but found it too hard to work with and had better
luck with black leather.

Let me know if you need a pattern.  The leather cut-out would make a
nice project for a Cub scout troop.

Seems some vendors used to list these but supplied a sort of plastic zip-tie.

Geo

From eoot at citlink.net  Mon Mar 22 06:04:41 2010
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 09:04:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Speedo Cable options
Message-ID: <001601cac9c0$3dd4a3d0$690a0a0a@Office>

Greetings listers

In investigating the failure of the speedometer to function on my 1977 TR6
powered TVR 2500M, I discovered that the problem was not the gauge itself
(nice surprise) but rather the short cable that goes from the EGR meter to the
speedo was broken.  As TVR parts are often not readily available, I have been
looking at ot her options.  I note that he later TR6 had this EGR meter and a
short cable. However, the connection at the speedo is not the same as it is a
screw on where the TVR has a push on.  Also, TRF lists the length of this
cable fro the TR6 at 15", while the inneer cable of the TVR measures approx.
13 7/8. Never the less I suppose that one option is to use the TR6 inner
cable, and cut it down to fit. This assumes that the stop on the inner cable
at the speedo end is correct.  I also noticed when looking for options that
the MK4 and 1500 Spitfire have a push on connection to the speedo that appears
to be the same as I have, and that it also has one that goes to an EGR. I have
not been able to determine the length, so I am not sure if this is an option.
If anyone has information on that I would appreciate it.
Thoughts, ideas and or recommendations appreciated.

Ed




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Database version: 6.14540
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From triosan at gmail.com  Mon Mar 22 10:35:09 2010
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 10:35:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Got a problem with the race car, need advice
Message-ID: <8cbd782d1003221035s6ca4f69bj19ffaf1b4ecfb04b@mail.gmail.com>

I have a petrol injected TR6 race car.  It has a Pertronix distributor
[the whole distributor, not just the points replacement in a stock
dizzy].  I also have a Crane ignition.  First time out with the car
this year.  Drove a few sessions Friday, then more on Sunday.  First
two runs Friday went OK as far as the engine goes [had suspension
issues, but worked those out].  The third session was longer, and over
the course of it the car started to cut out under WOT at about 4500 to
5500 RPM.  It did not do this always, but most of the time.  The tach
would swing wildly.  It felt a little like a rev limiter [which is
setto 7000 RPM],but only for an instant.  I did some investigating and
found that I did not have the distributor fully locked, and it had
"walked" to quite far advanced.  I though putting it back to where it
belonged would fix the issue.  IT did not.  At the Sunday event it
just got worse, so I only got one long session in.

So, I beleieve there is a problem with either the Pertronix or the
Crane.  I am asking for advice from all the TR groups I belong to.
What do you think, and how should I diagnose it?  I do have a dual
point Mallory dizzy I can install -- but may have no way to check out
if it helps until race day.

OR, do any of my Seattle area race buddies know of a road I could run
a couple of test on [6K in second will do it] \!

Thanks,

Chuck

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Mar 22 13:19:29 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 13:19:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedo Cable options
In-Reply-To: <001601cac9c0$3dd4a3d0$690a0a0a@Office>
References: <001601cac9c0$3dd4a3d0$690a0a0a@Office>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003221319i3d8f4141na695a1b18c4422d@mail.gmail.com>

On 3/22/10, Ed Oot <eoot at citlink.net> wrote:
> ..the short cable that goes from the EGR meter to the speedo was broken.

Ed -- I have used a local shop that does instrument repair that makes
replacement inner cables while I wait.  They match the fixed end, cut
to length and then use some special tool (maybe a hammer) to make the
squared end.

You might check the yellow pages and see if there is one of these
places in your world.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Mar 22 13:21:06 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 13:21:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedo Cable options
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003221319i3d8f4141na695a1b18c4422d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001601cac9c0$3dd4a3d0$690a0a0a@Office>
	<3b0049461003221319i3d8f4141na695a1b18c4422d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003221321o3f5f58c0q4741e1bdb6b8e69a@mail.gmail.com>

Oh... and I have seen a 'make your own cable kit' in the HELP section
of the FLAPS.  Comes I think with the inner cable and some parts to
make the ends.  Haven't tried it but might work for you.

On 3/22/10, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
> On 3/22/10, Ed Oot <eoot at citlink.net> wrote:
>> ..the short cable that goes from the EGR meter to the speedo was broken.
>
> Ed -- I have used a local shop that does instrument repair that makes
> replacement inner cables while I wait.  They match the fixed end, cut
> to length and then use some special tool (maybe a hammer) to make the
> squared end.
>
> You might check the yellow pages and see if there is one of these
> places in your world.
>
> Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 22 14:05:30 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 14:05:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedo Cable options
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003221321o3f5f58c0q4741e1bdb6b8e69a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001601cac9c0$3dd4a3d0$690a0a0a@Office><3b0049461003221319i3d8f4141na695a1b18c4422d@mail.gmail.com>
	<3b0049461003221321o3f5f58c0q4741e1bdb6b8e69a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <056001caca03$6817bfe0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Oh... and I have seen a 'make your own cable kit' in the HELP section
> of the FLAPS.  Comes I think with the inner cable and some parts to
> make the ends.  

Last time I tried one of those, the ends were the wrong size for Triumphs.

What I wound up doing was removing the (wrong) fitting from the new outer
cable, and replacing it with the fitting from the old cable.  I slit the
crimped section open with a Dremel & cutoff tool, spread it a bit with a
screwdriver so it would slip off and on, then clamped it into place with a
small hose clamp.  Not pretty but functional.

One other point, Ed; on my 2nd Stag the "root cause" was actually the speedo
head.  It would turn well enough when cold, but had enough drag in the
bearing to get hot and seize after prolonged operation.

Randall

From tom628 at verizon.net  Mon Mar 22 18:34:54 2010
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 21:34:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Speedo Cable options
References: <001601cac9c0$3dd4a3d0$690a0a0a@Office>
Message-ID: <EE720FF3856647D9B6A5A24F5A7ED5E7@Toms>

Ed, for my 76 TR6 I recently replaced the 2-pc. cable and EGR box with a 
longer 1-pc cable from an earlier TR6. Don't know if that's an option for 
you with the TVR, or if you want to maintain originality.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Oot" <eoot at citlink.net>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 9:04 AM
Subject: [TR] Speedo Cable options


> Greetings listers
>
> In investigating the failure of the speedometer to function on my 1977 TR6
> powered TVR 2500M, I discovered that the problem was not the gauge itself
> (nice surprise) but rather the short cable that goes from the EGR meter to 
> the
> speedo was broken.  As TVR parts are often not readily available, I have 
> been
> looking at ot her options.  I note that he later TR6 had this EGR meter 
> and a
> short cable. However, the connection at the speedo is not the same as it 
> is a
> screw on where the TVR has a push on.  Also, TRF lists the length of this
> cable fro the TR6 at 15", while the inneer cable of the TVR measures 
> approx.
> 13 7/8. Never the less I suppose that one option is to use the TR6 inner
> cable, and cut it down to fit. This assumes that the stop on the inner 
> cable
> at the speedo end is correct.  I also noticed when looking for options 
> that
> the MK4 and 1500 Spitfire have a push on connection to the speedo that 
> appears
> to be the same as I have, and that it also has one that goes to an EGR. I 
> have
> not been able to determine the length, so I am not sure if this is an 
> option.
> If anyone has information on that I would appreciate it.
> Thoughts, ideas and or recommendations appreciated.
>
> Ed
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> Database version: 6.14540
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Tue Mar 23 06:33:49 2010
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 09:33:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Summer party info??
Message-ID: <380-220103223133349801@M2W136.mail2web.com>

Hoping not to start a huge thread about the virtues of the Summer party, My
wife and I were thinking of taking a road trip and in doing so include the
Roadster Factory's Summer Party this year, but was wondering if the trip
(from San Diego) would be worth it.  Can anybody that has attended let me
know what is involved/included, in other words is it more than just another
car show and worth the couple of weeks (and expense) that the trip would
take??
Nothing on their site really says what will be going on ore is included in
the entrance fee.

Thanks

Barry

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From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Tue Mar 23 07:06:51 2010
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 08:06:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] Summer party info??
Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB72705F@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>

Barry et al-



For one, if I were to attend only one British car event for the Summer,
this would be it.

In years past, TSP has been expanded to include events from Thursday
through Sunday evening. My favorite has been the Drive-in movie, where
they have rented the entire venue and played a car related movie, while
serving dinner. They have also served evening meals that have been as
elegant as service on china in the past.

However, in more recent and leaner times, TRF has become more cost
conscious and the events have included a night at the drag strip, a
funkana, evening movies (but not at the drive-in) and a chance to dive
at Charles' restaurant, The Coventry Inn. In short, TSP is a big
congregation of like minded enthuasists gathering together at the
"factory."

I wish you could have attended in the years past when things were larger
and expanded, but I will always enjoy traveling to Pennsylvania for any
event they organize.

Hope to see you there!



Steve Thornton
Bowling Green, KY

1968 Triumph TR 250
1963 Jaguar Mk II RHD
1965 Harley Davidson Topper
2000 Indian Chief
2007 Harley Davidson FLSTC



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
v6spitfireguy at cox.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 8:34 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Summer party info??

Hoping not to start a huge thread about the virtues of the Summer party,
My wife and I were thinking of taking a road trip and in doing so
include the Roadster Factory's Summer Party this year, but was wondering
if the trip (from San Diego) would be worth it.  Can anybody that has
attended let me know what is involved/included, in other words is it
more than just another car show and worth the couple of weeks (and
expense) that the trip would take??
Nothing on their site really says what will be going on ore is included
in the entrance fee.

Thanks

Barry

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From opposumking at verizon.net  Tue Mar 23 08:48:35 2010
From: opposumking at verizon.net (opposumking at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 10:48:35 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Summer party info??
Message-ID: <1873465144.1167019.1269359315917.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>

/ELyMzo: Permission denied

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Tue Mar 23 08:53:41 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 08:53:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
Message-ID: <FFF5306A-50C4-4655-80D4-8A040B790BD2@cox.net>

I thought this might be a good idea to share with the list.

A couple of weeks ago at the Phoenix Wheels of Britain gathering, one of the
regular TR3 guys had converted the license plate light of his latter model TR3
back to the earlier brake light/license light.  I am thinking about doing the
same thing.  The only real (& trivial) change will be to run a brake wire to
the fixture.

I recognize that the light is fairly low, but when you regularly drive in a
place as busy & crowed as the Phoenix metro area, I figure every little bit
helps.  Besides once installed, it should not take more that 5 minutes to swap
it back out, whenever "originality" may be important.

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Mar 23 11:15:26 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 14:15:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <FFF5306A-50C4-4655-80D4-8A040B790BD2@cox.net>
References: <FFF5306A-50C4-4655-80D4-8A040B790BD2@cox.net>
Message-ID: <8CC98CBF1C9FFB6-4128-1574@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----

From: John A. Wise <60TR3A at cox.net>


A couple of weeks ago at the Phoenix Wheels of Britain gathering, one of the
regular TR3 guys had converted the license plate light of his latter model
TR3
back to the earlier brake light/license light.  I am thinking about doing the
same thing.  The only real (& trivial) change will be to run a brake wire to
the fixture.

==AM==
It's not quite that simple, unfortunately. Mounting the earlier lamp will
require a fairly sizeable hole to be cut in the rear apron panel
to accommodate the bulb socket of the lamp. The only other option would be to
craft some sort of plinth for mounting the lamp.

On the other hand, both lamps are very roughly the same "footprint," so I
suspect that the later license plate lamp would cover any
such large hole cut in the rear apron.

I've seen this done on Heralds and Sports 6s and have considered doing it on
my Herald. Fortunately, those cars do already have a plinth
on which the lamp mounts to the trunk lid.

Interestingly, the earlier L525 lamp is less expensive new than the later L467
lamp, at least from Holden in the UK!


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Mar 23 14:57:54 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 14:57:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <FFF5306A-50C4-4655-80D4-8A040B790BD2@cox.net>
References: <FFF5306A-50C4-4655-80D4-8A040B790BD2@cox.net>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003231457m2bba6efdmf2bfb68901bed14e@mail.gmail.com>

On 3/23/10, John A. Wise <60TR3A at cox.net> wrote:
> ...converted the license plate light of his later model TR3
> back to the earlier brake light/license light...

I've always maintained that Triumph invented the 3rd Brake Light...
they just didn't have the 1st and 2nd brake lights.

Another way to get a similar advantage is to use dual filament bulbs
in the turn signal fixtures with the second filament being used as
additional brake lights.  This is what I have done.

Of ocurse when driving in Phoenix (or even a cow town like Tucson) I
have this on the back of either TR:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/3rd%20Brake%20Light.JPG

Harbor Freight has sets of magnetic towing lights for about 10 bucks.
Ugly but perhaps effective.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 23 16:38:26 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 16:38:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003231457m2bba6efdmf2bfb68901bed14e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FFF5306A-50C4-4655-80D4-8A040B790BD2@cox.net>
	<3b0049461003231457m2bba6efdmf2bfb68901bed14e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <05d401cacae1$efe11b40$cfa351c0$@rr.com>

> Another way to get a similar advantage is to use dual filament bulbs
> in the turn signal fixtures with the second filament being used as
> additional brake lights.  This is what I have done.

I tried that on my 3A, but didn't really like the effect.  The problem is
that the dual filament bulbs have a 'dim' and 'bright' filament; if the
bright filament is on then it's impossible to tell if the dim one is on or
not.  So if you use the bright filament for brakes, your turn signals cannot
be seen when the brakes are on.  And the dim filament is, well, dim.

On my TR3, which has only the corner turn/tail lamps and center brake light;
I added relays to make the bright filament do double duty (as was standard
on American cars for many years).  This could easily be extended to the
beehive turn signals, and IMO would be preferable to the dual filament
bulbs.

One of my future lighting projects will be to convert the center
brake/license light to LED, so the license light does not illuminate the red
portion of the lens.

But I have to say that, of all the times I've been rear-ended in my TR3A; I
don't believe that brighter brake lights would have helped.  There just
isn't much you can do about people who aren't paying attention, or follow
too close for conditions. 

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 23 16:43:57 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 16:43:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <8CC98CBF1C9FFB6-4128-1574@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com>
References: <FFF5306A-50C4-4655-80D4-8A040B790BD2@cox.net>
	<8CC98CBF1C9FFB6-4128-1574@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <05d501cacae2$b5215280$1f63f780$@rr.com>

> Interestingly, the earlier L525 lamp is less expensive new than the
> later L467
> lamp, at least from Holden in the UK!

Yes, but they are also pretty cheesy reproductions.  Much flimsier than the
original, and I wouldn't be surprised to see rust blooming soon as well.

-- Randall 

From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Mar 23 17:33:54 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 20:33:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <05d501cacae2$b5215280$1f63f780$@rr.com>
References: <FFF5306A-50C4-4655-80D4-8A040B790BD2@cox.net><8CC98CBF1C9FFB6-4128-1574@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com>
	<05d501cacae2$b5215280$1f63f780$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CC9900D05210E9-15C8-2A7F@webmail-m055.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----

From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Mar 23, 2010 7:43 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light


> Interestingly, the earlier L525 lamp is less expensive new than the
> later L467
> lamp, at least from Holden in the UK!

Yes, but they are also pretty cheesy reproductions.  Much flimsier than the
original, and I wouldn't be surprised to see rust blooming soon as well.

==AM==
...and that is why I've held onto a decent original L525 (and an NOS lens for
same) for when/if I get around to trying to adapt same onto my Herald! :-)


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From ols at bcdef.net  Tue Mar 23 17:36:58 2010
From: ols at bcdef.net (Alexander Delis)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 20:36:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] GT6 tires
Message-ID: <11E93AE6-9F96-4625-9142-D45B49658B60@bcdef.net>

List!

It is time to get new tires for my GT6 MK1. It presently has 175 70 R13 tires.

Is there another size that will fit on the rims that will be a better choice?

Any suggestions as to what is a good, reasonably priced tire would be?

TIA

Alex


1958 TR3 TS33884LO
1968 GT6 KC10303
1976 TR6 CF51981U

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Mar 23 18:22:19 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 01:22:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003231457m2bba6efdmf2bfb68901bed14e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1068679492.5531861269393739186.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
 
> I've always maintained that Triumph invented the 3rd Brake Light...

I dunno.  That high-mounted center brake light on my uncle's DeSoto was pretty early...

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham 7
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue Mar 23 18:25:15 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:25:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Off topic but fun anyway
In-Reply-To: <8CC9900D05210E9-15C8-2A7F@webmail-m055.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134517@CMS01.winhosting.local>

I saw this on a Sympatico-Auto link:

"A Florida man learned a whole new meaning to a complimentary "car wash" at
his local Ford dealer. While picking up his Mustang GT after routine work, he
was told there was 'bad news'.

According to Jalopnik, the service agent who went to get his car used the
remote starter, which would be fine, normally. But the car was in gear - with
the parking brake off. The car shot through the parking space, through a
chain-link fence and straight into a holding pond, where it sank. The car is
apprently totalled.

Because the parking brake was off and there was no safety switch for the
system, the dealership claims they have no responsibility for the damages
incurred. Both sides are awaiting word form their insurance firms."

So - Does anybody think it is actually possible? Through a chain-link fence in
idle? Hmmm... Cheap fence I suppose.

Cheers,

Mark
1972 TR6

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Tue Mar 23 19:10:04 2010
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 19:10:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <FFF5306A-50C4-4655-80D4-8A040B790BD2@cox.net>
References: <FFF5306A-50C4-4655-80D4-8A040B790BD2@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4BA9747C.5000107@comcast.net>

I did exactly what you are considering. I have tried to keep most things
original but when it comes to reliability or safety, I tend to upgrade
because my car is a daily driver. The third brake light is definitely
more noticeable especially during the day.

My current project is a pair of Miata seats. Mostly because my original
seats are really shot, but partially for the additional head restrain
(even if the head rests are a bit short).

Mike

John A. Wise wrote:
> I thought this might be a good idea to share with the list.
>
> A couple of weeks ago at the Phoenix Wheels of Britain gathering, one of the
> regular TR3 guys had converted the license plate light of his latter model TR3
> back to the earlier brake light/license light.  I am thinking about doing the
> same thing.  The only real (& trivial) change will be to run a brake wire to
> the fixture.
>
> I recognize that the light is fairly low, but when you regularly drive in a
> place as busy & crowed as the Phoenix metro area, I figure every little bit
> helps.  Besides once installed, it should not take more that 5 minutes to swap
> it back out, whenever "originality" may be important.

From jerrann at shaw.ca  Tue Mar 23 20:28:03 2010
From: jerrann at shaw.ca (Jerry Goulet)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 20:28:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
Message-ID: <8calfd$1aur40@pd5mo1no-svcs.prod.shaw.ca>

I made the change to the middle brake/license light a year ago.  I thought
that it would be a fairly quick job to do the swap out and add the wiring.
If you have the same light fixture that I have, you will have to drill a
hole in the body because the new light has the lamp holder protruding into
the trunk (boot). It's not difficult, but having to cut into the bodywork
was a surprise.  Anyway, t now I feel a little safer with it and hardly
anyone comments on the subtle change.

Cheers, Jerry Goulet
1961 TR3A

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Mar 23 21:35:45 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 22:35:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <8calfd$1aur40@pd5mo1no-svcs.prod.shaw.ca>
References: <8calfd$1aur40@pd5mo1no-svcs.prod.shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <0CD06320A39C464DAA5EA483FD102141@bboffice>

Anyone have a picture of the change/process to the third light?  I would
going to convert the turn signals, but this is another idea I had not heard
of.
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Goulet
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 9:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light

I made the change to the middle brake/license light a year ago.  I thought
that it would be a fairly quick job to do the swap out and add the wiring.
If you have the same light fixture that I have, you will have to drill a
hole in the body because the new light has the lamp holder protruding into
the trunk (boot). It's not difficult, but having to cut into the bodywork
was a surprise.  Anyway, t now I feel a little safer with it and hardly
anyone comments on the subtle change.

Cheers, Jerry Goulet
1961 TR3A

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 23 22:11:27 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 22:11:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Off topic but fun anyway
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134517@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <8CC9900D05210E9-15C8-2A7F@webmail-m055.sysops.aol.com>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134517@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <073201cacb10$752e6310$0301a8c0@randall>

> So - Does anybody think it is actually possible? Through a 
> chain-link fence in
> idle? Hmmm... Cheap fence I suppose.

I'll buy going through the fence at idle; one of my very earliest driving
experiences was piloting my grandfather's loaded pickup truck across a corn
field with the engine idling, as he threw hay out the back to the cattle.
Hauling a ton of hay over the corn rows didn't phase it at all.

But there should have been an interlock, unless someone disabled it.

And I don't see any question that the dealership is liable for damage to the
car.  They might in turn have a claim against Ford for any defects, but they
were supposed to be in control when in fact they were not.  Regardless of
who parked it in gear without setting the parking brake. 

Randall

From jeffn at msystech.com  Tue Mar 23 22:25:28 2010
From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 01:25:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Springs for '72 TR6
Message-ID: <1B48E42711AF46769C000E6D53B07FE8@pistol>

I thought I would change my springs on the '72 TR6 (they are over 35 years
old). I spoke to TRF, and was impressed, but not in stock. Then, I looked at
MOSS and GoodParts. Are there opinions which place has the best springs? I am
not a racer, just a weekend driver. I don't want to lower or raise the height
of the car. Any opinions?

Thanks,
Jeff N.

From mdporter at dfn.com  Tue Mar 23 22:50:19 2010
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 23:50:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] Off topic but fun anyway
In-Reply-To: <073201cacb10$752e6310$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <8CC9900D05210E9-15C8-2A7F@webmail-m055.sysops.aol.com>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134517@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<073201cacb10$752e6310$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <4BA9A81B.8050809@dfn.com>

Randall wrote:
>> So - Does anybody think it is actually possible? Through a 
>> chain-link fence in
>> idle? Hmmm... Cheap fence I suppose.
>>     

>> But there should have been an interlock, unless someone disabled it.
>>
>> And I don't see any question that the dealership is liable for damage to the
>> car.  They might in turn have a claim against Ford for any defects, but they
>> were supposed to be in control when in fact they were not.  Regardless of
>> who parked it in gear without setting the parking brake. 
>>
>>     

No regardless about it.  The description of the situation was that the 
service manager was getting the car for the customer _after_ servicing. 
That means that the dealership or one of its authorized agents left the 
parking brake off and the drivetrain in gear.  Moreover, as you say, the 
service manager had the keys and remote in hand--he had the car in his 
control. 


Even a C- graduate of law school would have fun with this one.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Mar 24 04:36:54 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 07:36:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] Off topic but fun anyway
Message-ID: <5f0b.e982b33.38db5356@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/23/2010 8:53:42 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: 
> Because the parking brake was off and there was no safety switch for the
> system, the dealership claims they have no responsibility for the damages
> incurred. Both sides are awaiting word form their insurance firms."
> 
> So - Does anybody think it is actually possible? Through a chain-link 
> fence in
> idle? Hmmm... Cheap fence I suppose.
> 

If it was a Toyota...

Seriously, there's no word of terrain but if there was a mild incline 
involved, if the car was in a higher gear and there was sufficient distance for 
the car to attain, say 15 - 20 MPH, I doubt a chain link fence would hold it 
back.  The fence was most probably intended to keep pedestrians out.

Remote starter on a manual transmission.  Whoever installed it probably 
bypassed the clutch interlock.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Mar 24 04:54:03 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 07:54:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] Springs for '72 TR6
Message-ID: <69b9.fe85c3.38db575b@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/24/2010 12:54:55 AM Central Daylight Time, 
jeffn at msystech.com writes: 
> I thought I would change my springs on the '72 TR6 (they are over 35 
> years
> old). I spoke to TRF, and was impressed, but not in stock. Then, I looked 
> at
> MOSS and GoodParts. Are there opinions which place has the best springs? I 
> am
> not a racer, just a weekend driver. I don't want to lower or raise the 
> height
> of the car. Any opinions?
> 

Check with Ted, he usually has springs in stock

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/

Dave

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Mar 24 05:11:39 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 08:11:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Off topic but fun anyway
In-Reply-To: <a38798b31003240511h6b567795w8ef9fbd6f6308b7d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <5f0b.e982b33.38db5356@cs.com>
	<a38798b31003240511h6b567795w8ef9fbd6f6308b7d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b31003240511u2c14f41v5cc944ea77af6f31@mail.gmail.com>

That reminds me of one sunny Saturday morning at my local FLAPS, when I was
picking up a selection of car fluids. Outside, one of the salesmen was
trying to replace wiper blades on a customer's old, beater car. He came back
in side the store with one old blade to find replacements.

The customer, still outside,yelped as his locked car started to roll. Even
though the incline was not very much, the car mounted a kerb on the other
side of the two-row parking lot, then passed through a hedge and, as the
grass bank it was now rolling down got a little steeper, the car
accellerated to maybe 15 mph, rolled through a 4' highchain-link fence,
taking posts with it and bounced way in the air a few times over rough
ground and eventually stopped in thick brush. It was a bad moment for the
owner, but unapologetically, it was hilarious for the rest of us, especially
as no-one was in danger and the whole thing played out in slow-motion.

Brian

On Wed, Mar 24, 2010 at 7:36 AM, <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 3/23/2010 8:53:42 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes:
> > Because the parking brake was off and there was no safety switch for the
> > system, the dealership claims they have no responsibility for the damages
> > incurred. Both sides are awaiting word form their insurance firms."
> >
> > So - Does anybody think it is actually possible? Through a chain-link
> > fence in
> > idle? Hmmm... Cheap fence I suppose.
> >
>
> If it was a Toyota...
>
> Seriously, there's no word of terrain but if there was a mild incline
> involved, if the car was in a higher gear and there was sufficient distance
> for
> the car to attain, say 15 - 20 MPH, I doubt a chain link fence would hold
> it
> back.  The fence was most probably intended to keep pedestrians out.
>
> Remote starter on a manual transmission.  Whoever installed it probably
> bypassed the clutch interlock.
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr4zest at gmail.com

From jmitch at snet.net  Wed Mar 24 05:21:57 2010
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 08:21:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Springs for '72 TR6
In-Reply-To: <1B48E42711AF46769C000E6D53B07FE8@pistol>
References: <1B48E42711AF46769C000E6D53B07FE8@pistol>
Message-ID: <4BAA03E5.6010003@snet.net>

BPNW has a slightly uprated set with original ride height that worked 
great for my 76 TR6.  I would give them a call and explain that you want 
to retain the original stance.  John Mitchell

Jeff Nathanson wrote:
> I thought I would change my springs on the '72 TR6 (they are over 35 years
> old). I spoke to TRF, and was impressed, but not in stock. Then, I looked at
> MOSS and GoodParts. Are there opinions which place has the best springs? I am
> not a racer, just a weekend driver. I don't want to lower or raise the height
> of the car. Any opinions?
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff N.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 24 05:24:17 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 12:24:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Springs for '72 TR6
In-Reply-To: <69b9.fe85c3.38db575b@cs.com>
Message-ID: <451524714.3007911269433457338.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

moss has had some real problems with spring longevity.B  that was a few months
ago, and may have been fixed, but who knows?

are your springs bad, ie. sagging?B  or are you just renewing in case...?B  if
the latter, i would just blast them and repaint.B 

Energy Management is the hallmark of a professional pilot

----- Original Message -----
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 6:54:03 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] Springs for '72 TR6

In a message dated 3/24/2010 12:54:55 AM Central Daylight Time,
jeffn at msystech.com writes:
> I thought I would change my springs on the '72 TR6 (they are over 35
> years
> old). I spoke to TRF, and was impressed, but not in stock. Then, I looked
> at
> MOSS and GoodParts. Are there opinions which place has the best springs? I
> am
> not a racer, just a weekend driver. I don't want to lower or raise the
> height
> of the car. Any opinions?
>

Check with Ted, he usually has springs in stock

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/

Dave

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation B $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From lee.k.janssen at lmco.com  Wed Mar 24 05:29:56 2010
From: lee.k.janssen at lmco.com (Janssen, Lee K)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 06:29:56 -0600
Subject: [TR] Springs for '72 TR6
Message-ID: <E907CB9E4B37474F98A9375D5BECB26A01CE40C41D@HDXMSP7.us.lmco.com>

I went through these pains about 20 years ago with my 74 = TR6. I might still
have a set of TRF springs that reduced the rear end squat if you are
interested. I installed them and found them a little high to my liking and
replaced them with the Good Parts Springs. Since then I have never touched the
springs and they perform wonderfully.

See more information about my 205 HP turbo charged TR6 at
www.turbo-tr6.info<http://www.turbo-tr6.info>

Thanks for looking..

From tr6parts at charter.net  Wed Mar 24 06:50:58 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:50:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] shipping a hardtop
Message-ID: <D801CE22040C43928C65635281523621@Alan>

I need to ship a hardtop.
Has anyone done this.
what shipper? Can it be just straped to a pallet?

Thanks ,

Al

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Mar 24 09:23:55 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:23:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] shipping a hardtop
In-Reply-To: <D801CE22040C43928C65635281523621@Alan>
References: <D801CE22040C43928C65635281523621@Alan>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003240923p287fd68at2f16e721adea1860@mail.gmail.com>

A good friend (local) had an Austin Healey hardtop shipped by Greyhound.

Wrapped it with cardboard and padding, there was a size limit and he
was close.  In fact they said it was too large but the driver tried it
in the compartment (below deck like the one they use for luggage) and
it fit so they took it.

His one recommendation -- for a slight extra fee they will guarantee
which bus it will arrive on (otherwise it travels as space is
available) that way you can be at the bus station to meet it.

Geo

On 3/24/10, Al Salvatore <tr6parts at charter.net> wrote:
> I need to ship a hardtop.

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 24 09:54:49 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:54:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] shipping a hardtop
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003240923p287fd68at2f16e721adea1860@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D801CE22040C43928C65635281523621@Alan>
	<3b0049461003240923p287fd68at2f16e721adea1860@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a06240804c7cff3a8c28d@[192.168.2.2]>

Tacking onto a similar thread, I have a Factory Steel Hardtop for the 
TR6, in perfect condition, been hanging in my garage since 2005 ... 
painted Ferrari Red.  Anyone interested?  I have no idea as to its 
value. All mounting hardware and instruction manual included.



>A good friend (local) had an Austin Healey hardtop shipped by Greyhound.
>
>Wrapped it with cardboard and padding, there was a size limit and he
>was close.  In fact they said it was too large but the driver tried it
>in the compartment (below deck like the one they use for luggage) and
>it fit so they took it.
>
>His one recommendation -- for a slight extra fee they will guarantee
>which bus it will arrive on (otherwise it travels as space is
>available) that way you can be at the bus station to meet it.
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Mar 24 10:06:18 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 10:06:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] shipping a hardtop
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003240923p287fd68at2f16e721adea1860@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D801CE22040C43928C65635281523621@Alan>
	<3b0049461003240923p287fd68at2f16e721adea1860@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4BAA468A.7050302@gmail.com>

I used my local UPS store.  Not the cheapest way but totally hassle free 
for shipping a TR3 hardtop.

Teriann

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 24 10:18:29 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 10:18:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] shipping a hardtop
In-Reply-To: <D801CE22040C43928C65635281523621@Alan>
References: <D801CE22040C43928C65635281523621@Alan>
Message-ID: <069001cacb76$063beb10$12b3c130$@rr.com>

> I need to ship a hardtop.
> Has anyone done this.

I've not done a hardtop, but Forward Air will take almost anything that will
fit on a pallet; plus charge a LOT less than UPS, at least if you only use
their "terminal to terminal" service.  If they have a terminal near both
parties, that might be practical.
http://www.forwardair.com/locations/falocations.htm

-- Randall 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Mar 24 15:43:59 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 22:43:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <862449474.9214361269470349676.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>...one of the
>regular TR3 guys had converted the license plate light of his latter model
TR3
>back to the earlier brake light/license light.B B 



I'm not a guy who particularly likes to be noticed, but when I'm braking in
the TR3A, I do.B  Uh huh.B  A lot.



...So,B  what I did was rewire both the parking lights and brake lights so all
four lights in the back light up when I press the brake.B  ISTR that I had to
change the socket for the beehive flasher assembly to accept the dual bulb,
but I can't remember for sure.B  At any rate, even an English and Managment
major like me could do the math:B  four are better than two!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From allegrorover at mac.com  Thu Mar 25 00:29:19 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 03:29:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C904098-270C-4CBF-A536-696CB9312AB0@mac.com>

List,
I also was concerned about someone running into the back of me, bad  
enough that I had a fruitcake doctor back into the front of me, so I  
installed a 3rd brake light on a roll bar that came with the car when  
I first bought it in San Diego in 1978.
It took some jury rigging to get it mounted upside down but I am  
pleased with the results.
Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/JPG which had a name of IMG_7424.jpeg]

From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Mar 25 14:18:18 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 21:18:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] gas line clips TR3A
In-Reply-To: <962166222.5819901269551695151.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2046661813.5821411269551898362.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I need the clips for holding the gas line to the frame on a TR3 - probably others, too. 
TRF has part number 59191 that is the clip for the hydraulic line, which is a smaller 
clip. They list the number as 59190 - but is no longer available. Moss and Rimmer neither 
shows them available. Any ideas? 
TIA 
Tom Fansher 
60 TR3A 
61 TR3A 
62 TR4 
73 Stag 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 25 14:47:48 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 14:47:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Advice Needed
Message-ID: <a06240800c7d1899ce7f2@[192.168.2.2]>

OK I sorta started up a firestorm with my offer of a hardtop ... Now 
I have to find a fair and reasonable price for it.  Folks it is in 
Concours condition, with all mounting hardware and original 
instructions. That is the best description I can give. The color is 
Cosa Rossa  which I have been told is a Ferrari red.
So ... what is an estimate on price ???

Thanks for all your help
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Thu Mar 25 17:40:56 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 20:40:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Advice Needed
In-Reply-To: <a06240800c7d1899ce7f2@[192.168.2.2]>
References: <a06240800c7d1899ce7f2@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <8CC9A9422059D5E-1574-BAA2@webmail-m049.sysops.aol.com>

 Well, since I was one of the ones who requested a price, I will recuse myself
from offering a price.  Unless you will accept $5 and a six pack of beer?

Aaron








-----Original Message-----
From: Bill <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Mar 25, 2010 5:47 pm
Subject: [TR] Advice Needed


OK I sorta started up a firestorm with my offer of a hardtop ... Now I have to
find a fair and reasonable price for it.  Folks it is in Concours condition,
with all mounting hardware and original instructions. That is the best
description I can give. The color is Cosa Rossa  which I have been told is a
Ferrari red.
So ... what is an estimate on price ???

Thanks for all your help
-- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake
it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com

From tidbinbilla at cox.net  Thu Mar 25 20:55:52 2010
From: tidbinbilla at cox.net (tidbinbilla)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 20:55:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2010 is now open.
Message-ID: <DB4D15ED1D2C4026ACA350B1DB87749E@HAL9000>

The Triumph Sports Car Club of San Diego is happy to announce that
registration is now open for Triumphest 2010.  The event is located in the
resort town of Del Mar, just north of San Diego and takes place from October
7th through the 10th.  We are using the Del Mar Hilton which is located just
across the street from the world famous Del Mar Racetrack.  We have a full
slate of the events - including an autocross on the tarmac at the Racetrack -
plus a few local specialties.  Visit www.triumphest.com to register on-line or
print a registration form if you prefer.



David Stauffacher

Triumph Sports Car Club of San Diego.

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Mar 26 06:07:38 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 13:07:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2010 is now open.
In-Reply-To: <DB4D15ED1D2C4026ACA350B1DB87749E@HAL9000>
Message-ID: <1071225319.6570221269608858204.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Truimphest was a blast in 2009.  Sorry to miss this one, but we will be in Pennsylvania with the Lotus folks.

VTR in Georgia the following weekend.  Maybe folks could make deals to fly to each others?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham 7
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Mar 26 09:08:28 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 11:08:28 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] gas line clips TR3A
Message-ID: <1367596834.691658.1269619708287.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>

My parts manual (p.60 shows that 59191 is the replacement part.  

Mar 25, 2010 09:44:09 PM, tfansher at comcast.net wrote:

I need the clips for holding the gas line to the frame on a TR3 - probably others, too. 
TRF has part number 59191 that is the clip for the hydraulic line, which is a smaller 
clip. They list the number as 59190 - but is no longer available. Moss and Rimmer neither 
shows them available. Any ideas? 
TIA 
Tom Fansher 
60 TR3A 
61 TR3A 
62 TR4 
73 Stag 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 26 10:02:33 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 10:02:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] gas line clips TR3A
In-Reply-To: <1367596834.691658.1269619708287.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <1367596834.691658.1269619708287.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <0a9701cacd06$21af12a0$650d37e0$@rr.com>

> My parts manual (p.60 shows that 59191 is the replacement part.

I would interpret that entry as meaning they switched from 59190 to 59191
during production (but no change point was given, perhaps indicating it was
not a 'clean' change).  If it was a simple supersession, only the later
number would be listed.

I'm not certain which it is, but the fuel line clip on TS13571L certainly
resembles the illustration on the TRF web page (I was looking at it just a
few days ago, while changing a rear spring).

Note also page 74 of the SPC, where both 59190 and 59191 are listed as
fitting the speedometer cable.  I think there is a good chance that 59191
will work fine, and no judge is going to tell you it's wrong.

-- Randall 

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri Mar 26 14:52:04 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 17:52:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] gas line clips TR3A
References: <1367596834.691658.1269619708287.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>
	<0a9701cacd06$21af12a0$650d37e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <27E54A37B1B6403EBA1F5EF9DF7BC624@DCS78M81>

I've got some of the 59190 clips and they are too small.
They fit the brake lines just fine, but the fuel line is larger.
They do look the same in the manual, but the fuel line clip is larger - I 
have a couple, but need a couple more. I can use a zip tie and a bar on the 
other side of the frame, but would rather "do it right"
Thanks to all
Tom
>> My parts manual (p.60 shows that 59191 is the replacement part.
>
> I would interpret that entry as meaning they switched from 59190 to 59191
> during production (but no change point was given, perhaps indicating it 
> was
> not a 'clean' change).  If it was a simple supersession, only the later
> number would be listed.
>
> I'm not certain which it is, but the fuel line clip on TS13571L certainly
> resembles the illustration on the TRF web page (I was looking at it just a
> few days ago, while changing a rear spring).
>
> Note also page 74 of the SPC, where both 59190 and 59191 are listed as
> fitting the speedometer cable.  I think there is a good chance that 59191
> will work fine, and no judge is going to tell you it's wrong.
>
> -- Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 26 15:14:19 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 15:14:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] gas line clips TR3A
In-Reply-To: <27E54A37B1B6403EBA1F5EF9DF7BC624@DCS78M81>
References: <1367596834.691658.1269619708287.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>
	<0a9701cacd06$21af12a0$650d37e0$@rr.com>
	<27E54A37B1B6403EBA1F5EF9DF7BC624@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <0b2b01cacd31$af028530$0d078f90$@rr.com>

> I've got some of the 59190 clips and they are too small.

Ok, I'm confused ... what was the problem again?  TRF has the 59191 clips,
which must be right if the 59190 are too small.

I also don't see how 59190 can be too small for the fuel line, when the
factory used them on the speedometer cable.  If one were to reshape it just
a bit, I'll bet it would hold 1/2" od just fine.

-- Randall 

From dlylis at gmail.com  Fri Mar 26 18:18:13 2010
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 01:18:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <862449474.9214361269470349676.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.0.1269656370.15523.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I bought a third brake light from this guy in CT at Stowe about four years ago. It is one of these LED jobbies about 12 inches long.  I replaced the two center Lift the Dot pegs in the center back and replaced with 10-32 stainless machine screws and mounted this this by finishing off with chrome acorn nuts. Those behind me definitley know when I hit the brakes. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: terryrs at comcast.net
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 22:43:59 
To: John A. Wise<60TR3A at cox.net>
Cc: Triumph car discussion Sports<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light

>...one of the
>regular TR3 guys had converted the license plate light of his latter model
TR3
>back to the earlier brake light/license light.B B 



I'm not a guy who particularly likes to be noticed, but when I'm braking in
the TR3A, I do.B  Uh huh.B  A lot.



....So,B  what I did was rewire both the parking lights and brake lights so all
four lights in the back light up when I press the brake.B  ISTR that I had to
change the socket for the beehive flasher assembly to accept the dual bulb,
but I can't remember for sure.B  At any rate, even an English and Managment
major like me could do the math:B  four are better than two!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri Mar 26 18:40:55 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 21:40:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] gas line clips TR3A
References: <1367596834.691658.1269619708287.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net><0a9701cacd06$21af12a0$650d37e0$@rr.com><27E54A37B1B6403EBA1F5EF9DF7BC624@DCS78M81>
	<0b2b01cacd31$af028530$0d078f90$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BD591582A0BD4F7D975A041090D49DA6@DCS78M81>

Sorry Randall, et al the clips I have are the 59191 and they are too small. 
So I'm looking for the 59190 clips.
Sorry for the problem.....senior moment ???
Tom

>> I've got some of the 59190 clips and they are too small.
>
> Ok, I'm confused ... what was the problem again?  TRF has the 59191 clips,
> which must be right if the 59190 are too small.
>
> I also don't see how 59190 can be too small for the fuel line, when the
> factory used them on the speedometer cable.  If one were to reshape it 
> just
> a bit, I'll bet it would hold 1/2" od just fine.
>
> -- Randall

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Mar 26 18:57:44 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 01:57:44 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <20100327024814.539ED18786F@autox.team.net>
References: <862449474.9214361269470349676.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20100327024814.539ED18786F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E773EB@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Here's that guy in CT.

http://www.jandlenterprise.com/products/brakelighter.htm

It's a very nice solution for our small cars. I have one under my TR6 roll bar
following the example from one of our club members (thanks Denis). I also
installed the litezupp LED rear/brake lamps so I light up like a xmas tree
when I touch the brakes.

http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Automotive_Lighting.html

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dlylis at gmail.com
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2010 9:18 PM
To: terryrs at comcast.net; triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net; John A. Wise
Cc: Triumph car discussion Sports
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light

I bought a third brake light from this guy in CT at Stowe about four years
ago. It is one of these LED jobbies about 12 inches long.  I replaced the two
center Lift the Dot pegs in the center back and replaced with 10-32 stainless
machine screws and mounted this this by finishing off with chrome acorn nuts.
Those behind me definitley know when I hit the brakes.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: terryrs at comcast.net
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 22:43:59
To: John A. Wise<60TR3A at cox.net>
Cc: Triumph car discussion Sports<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light

>...one of the
>regular TR3 guys had converted the license plate light of his latter model
TR3
>back to the earlier brake light/license light.B B



I'm not a guy who particularly likes to be noticed, but when I'm braking in
the TR3A, I do.B  Uh huh.B  A lot.



....So,B  what I did was rewire both the parking lights and brake lights so
all
four lights in the back light up when I press the brake.B  ISTR that I had to
change the socket for the beehive flasher assembly to accept the dual bulb,
but I can't remember for sure.B  At any rate, even an English and Managment
major like me could do the math:B  four are better than two!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan.foster at hp.com

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri Mar 26 19:50:31 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 19:50:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E773EB@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <862449474.9214361269470349676.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20100327024814.539ED18786F@autox.team.net>
	<374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E773EB@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <ED82DB71-77B4-43A8-AC51-AB7E3984EE68@cox.net>

I also have the LEDs from Litzupp based the advice from the list.  I liked
them so much I also bought a set for the brake lights on my 911.

http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Automotive_Lighting.html

> I bought a third brake light from this guy in CT at Stowe about four years
> ago. It is one of these LED jobbies about 12 inches long.  I replaced the
two
> center Lift the Dot pegs in the center back and replaced with 10-32
stainless
> machine screws and mounted this this by finishing off with chrome acorn
nuts.
> Those behind me definitley know when I hit the brakes.


Given that I have only had the top on the car twice since 2004 I guess it
would not be a problem.  Does anyone have another location where new holes
would not be needed??

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Mar 27 09:25:37 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 12:25:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <ED82DB71-77B4-43A8-AC51-AB7E3984EE68@cox.net>
References: <862449474.9214361269470349676.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20100327024814.539ED18786F@autox.team.net>
	<374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E773EB@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<ED82DB71-77B4-43A8-AC51-AB7E3984EE68@cox.net>
Message-ID: <AB16C83C186C4731B30C8EAC9F94A622@CarlPC>

looking closely at the strip it looks like the bracket are suction cup 
mounted..   Maybe between the gas cap and the trunk edge? 
http://www.jandlenterprise.com/images/BacketInstructions8%5B1%5D.5x11.pdf

Also - John - did you ever find a suitable flasher casing?  I found a couple 
this morning.
Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net>
> Given that I have only had the top on the car twice since 2004 I guess it
> would not be a problem.  Does anyone have another location where new holes
> would not be needed??

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Sat Mar 27 11:59:30 2010
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 11:59:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] inspection help
Message-ID: <693697.96184.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

I'm looking for someone who would be able to help me out be looking at a TR7
located in southeast Nebraska, roughly half way between Omaha and KC.  If you
would be willing place contact me off the list so we can discuss.
 
Thanks,
 
Ernie

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Mar 27 12:44:29 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 13:44:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <AB16C83C186C4731B30C8EAC9F94A622@CarlPC>
References: <862449474.9214361269470349676.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><20100327024814.539ED18786F@autox.team.net><374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E773EB@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net><ED82DB71-77B4-43A8-AC51-AB7E3984EE68@cox.net>
	<AB16C83C186C4731B30C8EAC9F94A622@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <CDF3BEDC629647DCAEC3B19125864501@bboffice>

And are they weatherproof?  These illustrations show only interior
installations.
B

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 10:26 AM
To: John A. Wise; Foster, Stan (HP IT); Triumph car discussion Sports
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light

looking closely at the strip it looks like the bracket are suction cup 
mounted..   Maybe between the gas cap and the trunk edge? 
http://www.jandlenterprise.com/images/BacketInstructions8%5B1%5D.5x11.pdf

Also - John - did you ever find a suitable flasher casing?  I found a couple
this morning.
Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net>
> Given that I have only had the top on the car twice since 2004 I guess it
> would not be a problem.  Does anyone have another location where new holes
> would not be needed??

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Mar 27 13:02:54 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 16:02:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR250 project update
References: <4B9EDD3D.8010606@telus.net>
Message-ID: <CDD0BA06B66C457EBB2B3617714F1ABB@Edscomputer>

List,

After getting the Bosch alternator bolted up and wired the night before 
departure, the TR250 traveled over 2000 miles in its first outing in over 15 
years. Overdrive quit about halfway, as did the speedo. Otherwise it ran 
like a train and is back in the hands of its owner in Jacksonville, FL.

Thanks to all on The List for advice and/or parts.

Best,

Ed Woods 

From dlylis at gmail.com  Sat Mar 27 13:22:32 2010
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:22:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <ED82DB71-77B4-43A8-AC51-AB7E3984EE68@cox.net>
References: <862449474.9214361269470349676.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><20100327024814.539ED18786F@autox.team.net><374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E773EB@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net><ED82DB71-77B4-43A8-AC51-AB7E3984EE68@cox.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.1.1269725029.15523.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I put my top on and off all the time with this setup. Keep in mind that I had to fashion the bracket for it. 
I am not going to tell you that is as easy as without it because it is not but that or having a Hummer go over the top, it seems pretty easy!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 19:50:31 
To: Foster, Stan (HP IT)<stan.foster at hp.com>; Triumph car discussionSports<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light

I also have the LEDs from Litzupp based the advice from the list.  I liked
them so much I also bought a set for the brake lights on my 911.

http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Automotive_Lighting.html

> I bought a third brake light from this guy in CT at Stowe about four years
> ago. It is one of these LED jobbies about 12 inches long.  I replaced the
two
> center Lift the Dot pegs in the center back and replaced with 10-32
stainless
> machine screws and mounted this this by finishing off with chrome acorn
nuts.
> Those behind me definitley know when I hit the brakes.


Given that I have only had the top on the car twice since 2004 I guess it
would not be a problem.  Does anyone have another location where new holes
would not be needed??

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com

From don at napanet.net  Sat Mar 27 13:41:06 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 13:41:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] inspection help
In-Reply-To: <693697.96184.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <693697.96184.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100327210710.7F16924BA62@mail.napanet.net>

This is not a big deal, but . . . to those looking for inspection 
help, please state on the subject line your geographic locale.  That 
way you will target the people you are seeking and others won't need 
to look at the email since it won't pertain to them.




At 11:59 AM 03/27/2010, Ernest Husmann wrote:
>I'm looking for someone who would be able to help me out be looking at a TR7
>located in southeast Nebraska, roughly half way between Omaha and KC.  If you
>would be willing place contact me off the list so we can discuss.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ernie

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Sat Mar 27 14:37:09 2010
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 14:37:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] inspection help seNeb
In-Reply-To: <20100327210710.7F16924BA62@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <286532.21782.qm@web57606.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Don:
 
Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Ernie

--- On Sat, 3/27/10, don <don at napanet.net> wrote:


From: don <don at napanet.net>
Subject: [TR] inspection help
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, March 27, 2010, 3:41 PM


This is not a big deal, but . . . to those looking for inspection
help, please state on the subject line your geographic locale.  That
way you will target the people you are seeking and others won't need
to look at the email since it won't pertain to them.




At 11:59 AM 03/27/2010, Ernest Husmann wrote:
>I'm looking for someone who would be able to help me out be looking at a TR7
>located in southeast Nebraska, roughly half way between Omaha and KC.  If
you
>would be willing place contact me off the list so we can discuss.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ernie

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Sat Mar 27 14:45:23 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:45:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <CDF3BEDC629647DCAEC3B19125864501@bboffice>
References: <862449474.9214361269470349676.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20100327024814.539ED18786F@autox.team.net>
	<374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E773EB@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<ED82DB71-77B4-43A8-AC51-AB7E3984EE68@cox.net>
	<AB16C83C186C4731B30C8EAC9F94A622@CarlPC>
	<CDF3BEDC629647DCAEC3B19125864501@bboffice>
Message-ID: <a38798b31003271445k7c879c79w6e8ea02621ab84ac@mail.gmail.com>

Yes they are waterproof. The vendor offers a selection of mounts. I
bolted mine to the top cross bar of the aluminium luggage rack of my
TR4, running the wire through the hollow tubes of the rack into the
trunk, where I spliced into the brake light feed.

It is not as bright as my Litzup tail/brake lights, but still offers
more help being seen.

Brian
Valley Forge PA

On 3/27/10, wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> And are they weatherproof?  These illustrations show only interior
>  installations.
>  B
>
>  Bill Beecher
>  '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
>  "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
>  course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
>
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
>  [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
>  Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 10:26 AM
>  To: John A. Wise; Foster, Stan (HP IT); Triumph car discussion Sports
>  Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
>
>  looking closely at the strip it looks like the bracket are suction cup
>  mounted..   Maybe between the gas cap and the trunk edge?
>  http://www.jandlenterprise.com/images/BacketInstructions8%5B1%5D.5x11.pdf
>
>  Also - John - did you ever find a suitable flasher casing?  I found a couple
>  this morning.
>  Carl
>
>
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net>
>  > Given that I have only had the top on the car twice since 2004 I guess it
>  > would not be a problem.  Does anyone have another location where new holes
>  > would not be needed??
>
>  _______________________________________________
>  Triumphs at autox.team.net
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>
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>
>
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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Mar 27 16:12:42 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 19:12:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 fan balancing question
Message-ID: <42D769A2EAE44FF0AC896CAD98EBBD9D@CarlPC>

I am ready to mount the pulley, fan extension, and fan.   I have a new pulley
and a new fan, three different extensions and two center bolts.  I have no
idea which came off the engine.

How do you balance it all?

(the manual says that it should be done by my triumph specialist LOL)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 27 17:47:45 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:47:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 fan balancing question
In-Reply-To: <42D769A2EAE44FF0AC896CAD98EBBD9D@CarlPC>
References: <42D769A2EAE44FF0AC896CAD98EBBD9D@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <030d01cace10$489d7e00$0301a8c0@randall>

> How do you balance it all?

I used one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98488
(they were on sale at the time).

But honestly, the engine I'm running now vibrates so much that I don't know
if it helped or hindered.

It's eventual replacement will be carefully balanced, but won't have a fan &
extension, so I won't find out then either <G>

-- Randall

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Mar 27 19:30:29 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 19:30:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E773EB@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <862449474.9214361269470349676.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20100327024814.539ED18786F@autox.team.net>
	<374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E773EB@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003271930r7b69963aw75d4c34b2efb3e0c@mail.gmail.com>

On 3/26/10, Foster, Stan (HP IT) <stan.foster at hp.com> wrote:
>...so I light up like a xmas tree...

Me too.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR4XmasLights.JPG

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Mar 27 20:54:13 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 03:54:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003271930r7b69963aw75d4c34b2efb3e0c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <862449474.9214361269470349676.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<70918047.9216381269470639782.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20100327024814.539ED18786F@autox.team.net>
	<374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E773EB@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<3b0049461003271930r7b69963aw75d4c34b2efb3e0c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E919AB@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Nice !

-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 10:30 PM
To: Foster, Stan (HP IT)
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A 3rd Brake light

On 3/26/10, Foster, Stan (HP IT) <stan.foster at hp.com> wrote:
>...so I light up like a xmas tree...

Me too.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR4XmasLights.JPG

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Sat Mar 27 20:15:22 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:15:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
Message-ID: <431261.29049.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Hi List,
This is a petty post to the List, but here goes....My TR4A is almost
complete with its restoration.  My niece is thrilled about it.  She wants
Uncle Pat (me) to teach her how to drive it.  The child has no experience in
driving a manual tranny....I'm thinking of renting/borrowing a manual tranny
car to teach her before getting her in the TR driver's seat....Anyone have
this experience?
Pat
TR4A '67
IRS, Toyota tranny
1CTC/72746-L

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sat Mar 27 21:09:03 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 23:09:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
Message-ID: <14533232.823633.1269749343516.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net>

For me, I am going to rent a $26 manual and give it a rough day.B  After the
day, my daughter can head to the TR.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

On Mar 28, 2010, P Caffrey <pcaffrey at ymail.com> wrote:

Hi List,
This is a petty post to the List, but here goes....My TR4A is almost
complete with its restoration. My niece is thrilled about it. She wants
Uncle Pat (me) to teach her how to drive it. The child has no experience in
driving a manual tranny....I'm thinking of renting/borrowing a manual tranny
car to teach her before getting her in the TR driver's seat....Anyone have
this experience?
Pat
TR4A '67
IRS, Toyota tranny
1CTC/72746-L

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
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From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Mar 27 21:49:17 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 22:49:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <431261.29049.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <431261.29049.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D0481183BF9344BFA159ED2F0889391F@bboffice>

My daughter learned in an old Volvo P1800S, she did fine.  I would think
your TR4 is pretty rugged and as long as you are in an open area she should
be OK.  The good thing is that you are very close to the controls in a
triumph.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
The opinions expressed, are my own, drive at your own risk.


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of P Caffrey
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 9:15 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR

Hi List,
This is a petty post to the List, but here goes....My TR4A is almost
complete with its restoration.  My niece is thrilled about it.  She wants
Uncle Pat (me) to teach her how to drive it.  The child has no experience in
driving a manual tranny....I'm thinking of renting/borrowing a manual tranny
car to teach her before getting her in the TR driver's seat....Anyone have
this experience?
Pat
TR4A '67
IRS, Toyota tranny
1CTC/72746-L

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sat Mar 27 22:50:38 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 01:50:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <431261.29049.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <431261.29049.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CC9C51BA7F02A5-25F0-24638@Webmail-d104.sysops.aol.com>

 Pat,

In my opinion and my experience it is more important to find an empty parking
lot than it is to worry about the clutch.  The most likely mistake made by
people learning to drive a manual is to stall the car, not ride the clutch.
And stalling the car doesnt cause much wear on the components.  I highly doubt
that she would damage the clutch much at all.  Controlling the rate of take
off, and the rate of stop, is more likely going to be more difficult, so hence
the large, empty parking lot.


YMMV.

Aaron






-----Original Message-----
From: P Caffrey <pcaffrey at ymail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Mar 27, 2010 11:15 pm
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR


Hi List,
This is a petty post to the List, but here goes....My TR4A is almost
complete with its restoration.  My niece is thrilled about it.  She wants
Uncle Pat (me) to teach her how to drive it.  The child has no experience in
driving a manual tranny....I'm thinking of renting/borrowing a manual tranny
car to teach her before getting her in the TR driver's seat....Anyone have
this experience?
Pat
TR4A '67
IRS, Toyota tranny
1CTC/72746-L

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Mar 28 04:31:54 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 11:31:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Drain Plug
In-Reply-To: <8CC9C51BA7F02A5-25F0-24638@Webmail-d104.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <450012039.10438081269775914036.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Just prior to changing the oil on the TR3A yesterday, I noticed oil drops
hanging from the oilpan's drain plug.B Of course, this could come from
anywhere and find its way to that spot, but I'm curious.B 



The drain plug I'm using is a magnetized tip aftermarket jobbie.B  It has a
tapered fit too, since it doesn't ratchet all the way to the bottom of the
plug, but does go easily all the way through the hole and beyond.B  So...



1.B  Is this the type magnetized tip aftermarket plug you all are familiar
with, or did I somehow windup with some cross between a donkey and a swan.B 



2.B  A tapered plug SEEMS like it should not leak, but without a true seal of
any kind locking against the pan itself, it also seems natural that there
would be some weeping of hot 10/30 synthetic oil.B 



Ah!B  Can't write anymore!B  I'm drained!!!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Mar 28 04:56:28 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 11:56:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
In-Reply-To: <8CC9C51BA7F02A5-25F0-24638@Webmail-d104.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1616334755.10440891269777388358.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Got sick of having to fill or add oil to the tranny through a funnel with a
long hose to the side hole.B  Messy, slow, etc.



Broke down yesterday and used a hole-sawB to drill a hole in the tranny cover
over the dipstick.B  Managed not to cut into the cover switches or wires.B 
Will put a rubber plug in, and now I can check and add with ease!B  Good thing
too.B  The oil level wasn't reading at all.B  Valvoline 20/50 racing oil
poured in through a small funnel took 5 minutes instead of half an hour.B  Why
didn't I do that years ago?



Uhm...I already know the reason, so please don't volunteer.B  When other
people say it, I lose my sense of denial....



The notched oil drain on the OD was loose and leaking.B  Last year when I did
this routine,B I used an oil filter wrench to tighten it down.B  Didn't work
all that well.B The plug was finger loose when I took it off.B  Never again on
that one.B  Didn't like doing that much in the first place, so asked for one
of those E-Bay notched sockets for Christmas.B  Had to mildlyB file the old
brass plug for it to match up with the socket.B  Now, no worries.B  Used a
half inch breaker bar to snug it down solidly against a new washer.



BTW, a felt battery post washer is a perfect fit under the screen.B 



After a winter of insulating, drywalling, painting, staining and hanging 20
feet in the air nailing 6" tongue and groove ceiling boards to complete the
new breezeway, today I take the TR out for the first time.B  Thank goodness
for Springtime!!!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hamsphire

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sun Mar 28 06:12:30 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 09:12:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
Message-ID: <87a8a.55a3ef12.38e0afbe@aol.com>

Hi Pat; if your niece has been driving for a little while already, but on  
an automatic, I think it is going to be very difficult to teach her how to 
drive  a manual gearbox correctly. We were in the fortunate position of 
owning 45 acres  and when my son was 14 I bought an old wreck of a 4WD with a 
standard  transmission, so he could go off in the woods and through the field 
whilst  learning how to drive a manual gearbox. He's 21 now and drives a 1982 
Volvo 242  (60,000kms from new) with a 4-speed. For nearly a year he has 
been trying  to teach his girlfriend how to drive the car, but she just can't 
get it.  Maybe it's just her, but I have always felt that the only way to 
learn how to  drive a car with a manual gearbox is to not drive an automatic 
first.
 
Definitely, if you want to go through with this they you will need to  
borrow or rent manual gearbox car but it will be a long and arduous  process.
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Mar 28 06:45:47 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 09:45:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
Message-ID: <bea7c.2c47bb9.38e0b78b@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/28/2010 7:38:10 AM Central Daylight Time, 
terryrs at comcast.net writes: 
> Broke down yesterday and used a hole-sawB to drill a hole in the tranny 
> cover
> over the dipstick.B  Managed not to cut into the cover switches or wires.B 
> 
> Will put a rubber plug in, and now I can check and add with ease!B  Good 
> thing
> too.B  The oil level wasn't reading at all.B  Valvoline 20/50 racing oil
> poured in through a small funnel took 5 minutes instead of half an hour.B  
> Why
> didn't I do that years ago?
> 

Actually, the factory thought of it half a century ago.  If your TR has a 
dip stick you have a transmission form an earlier car.  Or a cover from a 
later car.  That feature was eliminated along with the factory provided access 
hole at some point in production, not doubt to save a few pennies.  My 57 
has both.   

My 65 MGB (from my college days) had one, too.

Good move.

Dave

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sun Mar 28 06:53:02 2010
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:53:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
References: <431261.29049.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E9C734C0A75746AD910C9345275DFDC8@0817C93C637E473>

What can I say?? I learned to drive in a TR3 :-) (about 1965)

Ken Gano

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "P Caffrey" <pcaffrey at ymail.com>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 10:15 PM
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR


> Hi List,
> This is a petty post to the List, but here goes....My TR4A is almost
> complete with its restoration.  My niece is thrilled about it.  She wants
> Uncle Pat (me) to teach her how to drive it.  The child has no experience 
> in
> driving a manual tranny....I'm thinking of renting/borrowing a manual 
> tranny
> car to teach her before getting her in the TR driver's seat....Anyone have
> this experience?
> Pat
> TR4A '67
> IRS, Toyota tranny
> 1CTC/72746-L
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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14:32:00

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Mar 28 07:16:17 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 09:16:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <87a8a.55a3ef12.38e0afbe@aol.com>
References: <87a8a.55a3ef12.38e0afbe@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7840D81F695F4F9BAF1659530856D9FB@ranteer.local>

I will strenuously disagree with this opinion.

both my kids learned to drive on an automatic - we felt it was asking too 
much to learn to shift while learning to drive - and both now are driving 
manual gearboxes and will never go  back.

if the kid has some coordination, and a good teacher, they will learn very 
quickly.  I wouldn't fret about using the TR to train them.

--------------------------------------------------
From: <KingsCreekTrees at aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 8:12 AM
To: <pcaffrey at ymail.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Learning to drive a TR

> Hi Pat; if your niece has been driving for a little while already, but on
> an automatic, I think it is going to be very difficult to teach her how to
> drive  a manual gearbox correctly. We were in the fortunate position of
> owning 45 acres  and when my son was 14 I bought an old wreck of a 4WD 
> with a
> standard  transmission, so he could go off in the woods and through the 
> field
> whilst  learning how to drive a manual gearbox. He's 21 now and drives a 
> 1982
> Volvo 242  (60,000kms from new) with a 4-speed. For nearly a year he has
> been trying  to teach his girlfriend how to drive the car, but she just 
> can't
> get it.  Maybe it's just her, but I have always felt that the only way to
> learn how to  drive a car with a manual gearbox is to not drive an 
> automatic
> first.
>
> Definitely, if you want to go through with this they you will need to
> borrow or rent manual gearbox car but it will be a long and arduous 
> process.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
> 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
> Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
> Canada
> Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
> (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/)

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Mar 28 07:35:10 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 09:35:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <E9C734C0A75746AD910C9345275DFDC8@0817C93C637E473>
References: <431261.29049.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>,
	<E9C734C0A75746AD910C9345275DFDC8@0817C93C637E473>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W54FA0E26D59BD505AA760AE1210@phx.gbl>

and you still have it! %^)

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> From: triumphs at consolidated.net
> To: pcaffrey at ymail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:53:02 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
>
> What can I say?? I learned to drive in a TR3 :-) (about 1965)
>
> Ken Gano
>
> ----- Original Message -----

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Mar 28 07:44:13 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 09:44:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <87a8a.55a3ef12.38e0afbe@aol.com>
References: <87a8a.55a3ef12.38e0afbe@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W52F7B361C4EB1495E3C987E1210@phx.gbl>

Tim Dyer said:

If your niece has been driving for a little while already, but on
an automatic, I think it is going to be very difficult to teach her how to
drive a manual gearbox correctly.



Tim,

I do not understand your reasoning.  We when through this a couple of years
ago, teaching my son to drive my daily driver Miata.  My wife and I decided we
wanted him to have some experience driving before we added shifting gears etc.
There were some ups and downs and I think I will do a better job with his
sister next year.



The one suggestion I would have is to find a level paved area and have them
pull away from a stop without using the throttle.  That will teach them where
the sweet spot on the clutch is.




Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar 28 08:09:46 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 15:09:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <14533232.823633.1269749343516.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <14533232.823633.1269749343516.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W32A24CC85D75AC75377638E5210@phx.gbl>

My son was totally inexperienced on stick shifts when I gave him a Birthday
present a few years ago.  The present was a two day driving school at Laguna
Seca.  By the second day they had him driving a Dodge Viper at competitive
levels.

Best regards,

Tom



_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Mar 28 08:09:55 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:09:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <7840D81F695F4F9BAF1659530856D9FB@ranteer.local>
References: <87a8a.55a3ef12.38e0afbe@aol.com>
	<7840D81F695F4F9BAF1659530856D9FB@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003280809o41e12707g98ecb1a92520c7fc@mail.gmail.com>

>From my experience with teaching 2 young drivers... I agree that it is
likely to be no big deal to teach them.

It will help if, when they learned to drive an automatic, they were
taught to only use their right foot for braking.  A good idea anyway
for beginning drivers as it reduces the possibility they will try to
brake and accelerate at the same time.

Parking lots are good -- cemetaries (off weekend) may also be peaceful
winding roads.

Had a friend teaching his wife to drive in his Morris Minor in a
parking lot.  Had her drive towards a light pole and turn just after
it -- she cleared the pole by 30 feet.

He said 'Good, but this time try to get closer to the pole'.  She sure did.

Good luck.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Mar 28 08:13:45 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:13:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Drain Plug
In-Reply-To: <450012039.10438081269775914036.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <8CC9C51BA7F02A5-25F0-24638@Webmail-d104.sysops.aol.com>
	<450012039.10438081269775914036.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003280813u31a0ec63s9c4aea825067ced9@mail.gmail.com>

On 3/28/10, terryrs at comcast.net <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> Just prior to changing the oil on the TR3A yesterday, I noticed oil drops
> hanging from the oilpan's drain plug...

As you mention, that is designed as a low spot so the oil could have
wandered in from anywhere (breather tube connectction, pan gasket,
etc) though I don't think there'd be any harm in using a bit of teflon
pipe dope on the threads if you doubt their ability to seal.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 28 08:30:09 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:30:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
In-Reply-To: <bea7c.2c47bb9.38e0b78b@cs.com>
References: <bea7c.2c47bb9.38e0b78b@cs.com>
Message-ID: <03fb01cace8b$8d5367f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Actually, the factory thought of it half a century ago.  If 
> your TR has a 
> dip stick you have a transmission form an earlier car.

Or, someone has thoughtfully converted a later transmission with the top
cover from an earlier one.  My TR3 has a TR6 gearbox with a dipstick.  

It makes adding oil something you can do on the side of the road, if
necessary.  Just be sure to put the dipstick back in!

> BTW, a felt battery post washer is a perfect fit under the screen.B 

Yeah, but there are supposed to be some ring magnets there.

Randall

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sun Mar 28 08:35:23 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 11:35:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
Message-ID: <8d513.4481fa70.38e0d13b@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/28/2010 10:15:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:

Actually, the factory thought of it half a century ago.  If your  TR has a 
dip stick you have a transmission form an earlier car.  Or a  cover from a 
later car.  That feature was eliminated along with the  factory provided 
access 
hole at some point in production, not doubt to  save a few pennies.  My 57 
has both.    



Oh, now I get it! I have a TR3A built in October '57, so when I read about  
having to cut a hole in the cover and it taking half an hour to top up the 
oil,  I was very confused. I didn't realise that feature was deleted on 
later cars.  That's really good to know.  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 28 08:44:59 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:44:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Drain Plug
In-Reply-To: <450012039.10438081269775914036.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <8CC9C51BA7F02A5-25F0-24638@Webmail-d104.sysops.aol.com>
	<450012039.10438081269775914036.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <040501cace8d$a0031e70$0301a8c0@randall>

> 1.B  Is this the type magnetized tip aftermarket plug you all 
> are familiar
> with, or did I somehow windup with some cross between a 
> donkey and a swan.B 

Depends on which oil pan you have.  Early pans had straight threads in the
drain plug, with a fiber washer and hex head on the plug.  Later pans used
standard tapered pipe threads.  The SPC gives the change point as TS18902E,
but of course early components are sometimes found on later cars.

> 2.B  A tapered plug SEEMS like it should not leak, but 
> without a true seal of
> any kind locking against the pan itself, it also seems 
> natural that there
> would be some weeping of hot 10/30 synthetic oil.B 

This logic escapes me.  A bit of 'Teflon' pipe dope on the threads should be
plenty to seal the plug against pretty much anything.  The stuff I got at
Home Depot is rated to something like 400F and 1000 psi.

But rather than ordinary 'soft' pipe plugs with those cheesy square heads
that round off; I prefer to use hardened plugs with hex socket heads.
http://tinyurl.com/ybh27wl

They are only a couple of $$ from MMC http://tinyurl.com/yb6kzw3

Much less likely to round, and easier to remove in tight places (like the
gearbox fill plug on the Stags).

-- Randall

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sun Mar 28 08:45:34 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 11:45:34 EDT
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
Message-ID: <8dc95.5db21f12.38e0d39e@aol.com>

Perhaps a lot of it depends upon the level of interest the student has. I  
think my son is almost forcing his girlfriend to learn to drive a manual and 
I'm  not convinced she's all that interested. 
 
Also, when I lived in the UK I taught Advanced Safety Driving as part of  
the Institute of Advanced Motorists (I.A.M.). I found that those who had 
started  off on automatics, and had no mechanical knowledge, just could never be 
as  competent as those who started off on a manual. Many may disagree with 
the  logic, but I can tell you I've taught hundreds already-licensed drivers 
to pass  the I.A.M. test. The failure rate of those who started on auto  
transmissions was much higher and not just with me as the instructor. Hill  
starts were always poor, no matter how much they'd practiced, gear changes  
rougher, pull-aways jerkier. I'm convinced there's something intuitive about  
starting on a manual. Of course, there'll always be exceptions and the big 
one,  which repeats my first sentence here, is that it depends upon the level 
of  interest that the student has. Most of my students wanted to take the 
I.A.M.  test to get lower insurance rates, or if they were driving a company 
car, their  employers' insurance companies required it for their own 
insurance. So, the  level of genuine interest perhaps wasn't there.  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.
kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 28 08:50:51 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:50:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <87a8a.55a3ef12.38e0afbe@aol.com>
References: <87a8a.55a3ef12.38e0afbe@aol.com>
Message-ID: <040601cace8e$71cd2c70$0301a8c0@randall>

> Hi Pat; if your niece has been driving for a little while 
> already, but on  
> an automatic, I think it is going to be very difficult to 
> teach her how to 
> drive  a manual gearbox correctly. 

Perhaps the operative word here is 'niece' ... I learned to drive automatics
since that was all my father, grandfather, and driving school had.  Then my
first car had "3 on the tree" and I had no trouble at all learning to drive
it.  Sure, I killed it a few times, and ground the gears more than once, but
it survived (or at least I don't think my inexpert driving had anything to
do with it's demise).

OTOH, I definitely let the wife practice on a friend's old Miata ... she
still hasn't driven my TR.

Randall

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Mar 28 08:53:59 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 11:53:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Drain Plug
Message-ID: <265d.72635a33.38e0d597@aol.com>

Terry,
 
After a few oil changes on my TR6 with a magnetic plug, I noticed it  
dripping as well.....not sure why.  I replaced the plug with a stock plug  and 
always use a little pipe dope on the threads just for good measure - no  
leaks:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 3/28/2010 8:08:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
terryrs at comcast.net writes:

Just  prior to changing the oil on the TR3A yesterday, I noticed oil  drops
hanging from the oilpan's drain plug.B Of course, this could come  from
anywhere and find its way to that spot, but I'm curious.B  



The drain plug I'm using is a magnetized tip aftermarket  jobbie.B  It has a
tapered fit too, since it doesn't ratchet all the  way to the bottom of the
plug, but does go easily all the way through the  hole and beyond.B  So...



1.B  Is this the type  magnetized tip aftermarket plug you all are familiar
with, or did I somehow  windup with some cross between a donkey and a 
swan.B 



2.B   A tapered plug SEEMS like it should not leak, but without a true seal 
 of
any kind locking against the pan itself, it also seems natural that  there
would be some weeping of hot 10/30 synthetic oil.B  



Ah!B  Can't write anymore!B  I'm  drained!!!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New  Hampshire

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Mar 28 09:05:03 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 12:05:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
Message-ID: <2f1a.2e3fe291.38e0d82f@aol.com>

Pat,
 
Several years ago when I still had my '70 Spit Mk3, I taught  our youngest 
daughter how to use a manual trans on that car.  It  really wasn't as 
gruesome as I expected!!!  
 
She had been driving for a few years (Honda Civic auto trans) but wanted to 
 learn manual because her boyfriend (now husband) had a Scion coupe 5  
speed.  I guess it was less stressful to their relationship if I taught her  on 
the Spit!  She was very attentive to the finer points of learning  manual 
shifting....don't ride the clutch, don't dump the clutch, etc.....younger  
people learn very well.....now, when I tried to teach my wife on our old MGB  
many years ago, that didn't end well (we are still married:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 3/28/2010 12:06:35 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
pcaffrey at ymail.com writes:

....Anyone have
this  experience?

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Mar 28 09:08:34 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 12:08:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
In-Reply-To: <8d513.4481fa70.38e0d13b@aol.com>
References: <8d513.4481fa70.38e0d13b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CC9CA80CBC3CBA-ED8-2837C@webmail-m086.sysops.aol.com>

 I, too, have a 57 TR3 and other than the odd dribble of oil on the carpets it
is much easier to top up than is the TR6.

Dave








-----Original Message-----
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com
To: Dave1massey at cs.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Mar 28, 2010 9:35 am
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change



In a message dated 3/28/2010 10:15:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:
Actually, the factory thought of it half a century ago.  If your   TR has a
dip stick you have a transmission form an earlier car.  Or a   cover from a
later car.  That feature was eliminated along with the   factory provided
access
hole at some point in production, not doubt to   save a few pennies.  My 57
has both.



Oh, now I get it! I have a TR3A built in October '57, so when I read about
having to cut a hole in the cover and it taking half an hour to top up the
oil, I was very confused. I didn't realise that feature was deleted on later
cars. That's really good to know.

Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A 1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: www.kingscreektrees.com

Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture
professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa
Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the
Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 28 10:06:56 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 10:06:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <8dc95.5db21f12.38e0d39e@aol.com>
References: <8dc95.5db21f12.38e0d39e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <043d01cace99$128a1d80$0301a8c0@randall>

> I found that 
> those who had 
> started  off on automatics, and had no mechanical knowledge, 
> just could never be 
> as  competent as those who started off on a manual. 

But perhaps that is effect rather than cause?  IOW those who had trouble
with the kind of coordination required to drive a stick were more likely to
seek out automatics in the first place?

I suspect this might be more common in the UK, where manuals are the default
configuration and it takes some effort to wind up in an automatic.  Here in
the US the situation is reversed, automatics have been the default
configuration for many decades.  My Buick, for example, was simply not
available with a manual; and I had to special-order my Chevy through Detroit
to get a manual transmission.

Randall

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Sun Mar 28 10:07:31 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 13:07:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a standard
Message-ID: <000001cace99$276c5650$764502f0$@net>

   My son went to the Caribbean on a vacation a few years back (he was 

about 20) and the ONLY car they had for him to rent was a 4-speed Jeep.  

It took him about 20 minutes to get the hang of it and he's still quite 

competent with a stick, even though his daily driver (Infinity G35) is an 

automatic.

   I learned how to drive a standard shift at 15 by riding with a friend who

had one and watching what he did and when.  

  

Dennis Culligan, Highland. NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U    

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 28 10:11:48 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 10:11:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
In-Reply-To: <8d513.4481fa70.38e0d13b@aol.com>
References: <8d513.4481fa70.38e0d13b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <044401cace99$c05f0010$0301a8c0@randall>

> I didn't realise that feature was 
> deleted on later cars.  

Yup, removed at TS50000, same time the transmission tunnel was slightly
reworked to clear the bigger starter bulge, required for the later starter
and flywheel.  The dipstick was replaced by a fill plug on the side of the
gearbox, which doubled as a level indicator.

What's interesting is when someone accidentally mates a later top cover
(without the dipstick) with an early gearbox (without the plug).  Result is
no way to fill it or check the level.

Randall

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Mar 28 11:06:25 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 11:06:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a standard
In-Reply-To: <000001cace99$276c5650$764502f0$@net>
References: <000001cace99$276c5650$764502f0$@net>
Message-ID: <a06240802c7d54a306f79@[192.168.2.2]>

Both of our Children, Son and Daughter learned on a non-synchro 1st 
speed Toyota FJ-55 Landcruiser, which is essentially bullet proof. 
They survived, and have had several jobs that being able to easily 
drive any manual, would have been denied to them otherwise.  They 
were very unhappy when I insisted they learn on the FJ-55, but since 
then, and a growing maturity, have admitted it was a very good thing 
after all.



>    My son went to the Caribbean on a vacation a few years back (he was
>
>about 20) and the ONLY car they had for him to rent was a 4-speed Jeep. 
>
>It took him about 20 minutes to get the hang of it and he's still quite
>
>competent with a stick, even though his daily driver (Infinity G35) is an
>
>automatic.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sun Mar 28 12:20:58 2010
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 15:20:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 117
Message-ID: <50312.853e938.38e1061a@aol.com>

Here's how I taught my wife to drive a standard tranny.  I sold her  1972 
Buick Skylark (in 1976) and bought a 4-speed 1972 Boss 351  Mustang.  I 
already had a 1972 Mustang 4-speed coupe.  She had no  choice but to learn.  She 
was/is a good student and car nut so she did  pretty good.  I came home from 
work one day and she took me to show me how  good she could drive.  We went 
to a burger joint and on the way home we  were merging with traffic on I-44 
when I got quite a ride.  It was misting  rain at the time and the car next 
to us didn't want to move over to let us in so  she floored it.  When the 
cam came on the car started to spin to the left  then the right and back to 
the left where she locked the brakes and we slid  sideways down the 
interstate in rush hour traffic.  The only thing I  said/yelled was "get your foot 
off the freeking brake!".  I was looking  into the oncoming traffic as we slid 
to a stop.  We couldn't go straight  because of a big embankment and 
couldn't back up because of the oncoming traffic  zooming by us.  A trucker 
finally stopped and let us back up and we were on  our way home.  I never said a 
word all the way home.  She took to the  TR's like a duck to water.  We are 
still married today.
 
Sam Clark

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sun Mar 28 12:55:05 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 15:55:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 117
Message-ID: <99462.186ade43.38e10e19@aol.com>

Nice story, Sam.  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From FPrecht at frostburg.edu  Sun Mar 28 13:55:15 2010
From: FPrecht at frostburg.edu (Francis Precht)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 16:55:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
Message-ID: <B6DDC4CB1E910A4F9E89ED244800209001543760@EMPLOYEEMAIL.frostburg.edu>

IMHO, it all depends on: the teacher, the student, and the car.  I have 2
daughters, aged 18 and 21. Both learned to drive in an automatic.  I
originally justified buying the '65 TR4A so the older daughter could drive it
her last 2 years of high school (I thought how cool would that be!!!). Well,
the driver ed teacher asked what kind of car all the students would likely be
driving, then made an offhand comment about wanting something with more
protection around him.  So, I got her a '94 Geo Tracker (pink!!).  She loved
it because it looked like a Barbie car.  That lasted 3 months until unwilling
to down-shift she slid on some ice turning too fast thru a green light, hit
the curb, and bent 2 rims and sliced up 2 tires.  She hasn't even tried to
drive a manual since.

Now the other daughter (now 18) has always wanted to drive 'Speedy' the TR
since she was 12.  Nothing's going to stop her!!  In fact, I wish she would
SLOW DOWN.  2 chargeable accidents and a speeding ticket.  And, I think she's
broken the rear end differential mounting bolts as there is now a clunk back
there.  She still has a little problem with hill starts-a real issue since we
live in the mountains.

I learned to drive on an automatic.  HAD to learn a manual shift when as a
laborer on a summer job the electrician said go get coffee and tossed me the
keys.  I said I couldn't drive a stick.....he said go get coffee or don't come
back.  He watched as I stalled it trying to get it rolling, and laughed.  When
I got back with the coffee he asked where the creamer was.  That was my
father!!

So, if the person WANTS to learn to drive a stick, they will.  I think the
motivation (or lack of) is the deciding factor.  Find a large empty parking
lot and let her have a go at it.  The car you can always fix.  The memory of
having her uncle teach her will last a lifetime.

bud precht
'65 TR4A
'52 MGTD  (sorry, but yes it's an MG.  and I love it just as much as the
TR....but for different reasons.  Sort of like my 2 daughters!)

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Sun Mar 28 14:07:15 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 14:07:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <2f1a.2e3fe291.38e0d82f@aol.com>
References: <2f1a.2e3fe291.38e0d82f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <138880.36215.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Thanks Chip and everyone.  I sure got a lot of good info....The niece, like
most kids her age (early 20s), learned to drive cars with power assist
brakes/steering plus auto trannys.  She currently has a late model Civic with
auto tranny....I was thinking today that the experience of driving a TR is
more than operating a manual tranny.  It's operating a manual tranny while
muscling the steering wheel at slow speeds, and actually using leg muscles to
operate brake/clutch pedals, plus doing this with the car vibrating and making
noise.  It may be a daunting experience for some of today's youth.

Another
option, is to just let her putt around in 2nd gear and not really teach her
how to drive the car.  There's a new but abandoned shopping mall (victim of
the economy) close to where I live and it has nice wide boulevards with little
traffic.

Thanks, again,
Pat




________________________________
From:
"Chip19474 at aol.com" <Chip19474 at aol.com>
To: pcaffrey at ymail.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, March 28, 2010 9:05:03 AM
Subject: Re: [TR]
Learning to drive a TR

Pat,

Several years ago when I still had my '70 Spit
Mk3, I taught our youngest daughter how to use a manual trans on that car.  It
really wasn't as gruesome as I expected!!!  

She had been driving for a few
years (Honda Civic auto trans) but wanted to learn manual because her
boyfriend (now husband) had a Scion coupe 5 speed.  I guess it was less
stressful to their relationship if I taught her on the Spit!  She was very
attentive to the finer points of learning manual shifting....don't ride the
clutch, don't dump the clutch, etc.....younger people learn very well.....now,
when I tried to teach my wife on our old MGB many years ago, that didn't end
well (we are still married:)

Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U

In a message dated 3/28/2010 12:06:35 A.M.
Eastern Daylight Time, pcaffrey at ymail.com writes:
....Anyone have
>this
experience?

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Sun Mar 28 14:34:04 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 14:34:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <B6DDC4CB1E910A4F9E89ED244800209001543760@EMPLOYEEMAIL.frostburg.edu>
References: <B6DDC4CB1E910A4F9E89ED244800209001543760@EMPLOYEEMAIL.frostburg.edu>
Message-ID: <817062.36519.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Hi Bud,
Yep, I agree with the motivation factor....It's really about her
desire to learn, plus having some hand/eye coordination....When I first got
the car over 30 years ago, mom insisted on driving it.  She had no problem
driving the TR.  WWII generation folks could drive anything!
Pat
________________________________
From: Francis Precht <FPrecht at frostburg.edu>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, March 28, 2010 1:55:15 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] Learning to drive a TR

IMHO, it all depends on: the teacher, the
student, and the car.  I have 2
daughters, aged 18 and 21. Both learned to
drive in an automatic.  I
originally justified buying the '65 TR4A so the
older daughter could drive it
her last 2 years of high school (I thought how
cool would that be!!!). Well,
the driver ed teacher asked what kind of car all
the students would likely be
driving, then made an offhand comment about
wanting something with more
protection around him.  So, I got her a '94 Geo
Tracker (pink!!).  She loved
it because it looked like a Barbie car.  That
lasted 3 months until unwilling
to down-shift she slid on some ice turning too
fast thru a green light, hit
the curb, and bent 2 rims and sliced up 2 tires. 
She hasn't even tried to
drive a manual since.

Now the other daughter (now
18) has always wanted to drive 'Speedy' the TR
since she was 12.  Nothing's
going to stop her!!  In fact, I wish she would
SLOW DOWN.  2 chargeable
accidents and a speeding ticket.  And, I think she's
broken the rear end
differential mounting bolts as there is now a clunk back
there.  She still has
a little problem with hill starts-a real issue since we
live in the mountains.
I learned to drive on an automatic.  HAD to learn a manual shift when as a
laborer on a summer job the electrician said go get coffee and tossed me the
keys.  I said I couldn't drive a stick.....he said go get coffee or don't come
back.  He watched as I stalled it trying to get it rolling, and laughed.  When
I got back with the coffee he asked where the creamer was.  That was my
father!!

So, if the person WANTS to learn to drive a stick, they will.  I
think the
motivation (or lack of) is the deciding factor.  Find a large empty
parking
lot and let her have a go at it.  The car you can always fix.  The
memory of
having her uncle teach her will last a lifetime.

bud precht
'65
TR4A
'52 MGTD  (sorry, but yes it's an MG.  and I love it just as much as the
TR....but for different reasons.  Sort of like my 2 daughters!)
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 28 15:23:11 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 15:23:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW:  Estate Auction - Cayuga, IN - April 24th
Message-ID: <04da01cacec5$41526b00$0301a8c0@randall>

Some Triumphs going up for auction, if anyone is interested.  That TVR
sounds interesting too (but it's too far away for me to go look).
-- Randall

-----Original Message-----
From: British Car Forum [mailto:bcfadmin at Britishcarforum.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 10:07 AM
To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com
Subject: Watched Forum: Triumph : Estate Auction - Cayuga, IN - April 24th

DO NOT REPLY TO THIS EMAIL - LOG IN AND REPLY TO PMs ON THE FORUM. 	
Dear BCF Member,

rick_ingram created a new topic at British Car Forum

You can view the post by clicking this link
<http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/664313#Post664
313> . The post contents are shown below:
	
 	
rick_ingram: Estate Auction - Cayuga, IN - April 24th 	
For those of you who knew Mark "British Mark" Joslyn, I've learned that his
estate auction will be held on April 24th in Cayuga, IN. 

R.I.P. my friend. 

[www.lenhartauction.com] 

Vehicles: 

1949 Truimph 2000 Roadster, right hand drive 

1959 Truimph TR10 Estate Wagon 

1962 Truimph HC-12 Herald Convertible 

1962 Truimph TR4 Convertible 

1960s Truimph Vitesse? Sport 6 parts car 

1963 Truimph Sport 6 Convertible 

1963 Truimph Sport 6 Convertible 

1963 Truimph TR4 Convertible 

1963 Truimph TR4 Convertible 

1963 Truimph TR Convertible w/ Ford 302 conversion 

1968 Truimph GT6 Coupe, red 

1968 Truimph GT6 Coupe, blue 

1973 Truimph TR6 

1974 Truimph TVR 2500M 

1980 Truimph Spitfire 1500 

1988 Mazda RX7 Convertible 

1998 Ford Expedition 

Aluminum car trailer 

Triumph parts, manuals, books, paraphenalia, signs, bicycle and toys! 

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Mar 28 18:29:22 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 18:29:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Amicale Spitfires
Message-ID: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>

I have been trying to pull up the French Spitfire Club website (Amicale
Spitfires) for several days without success.

Does anybody know if the site has changed addresses or has been taken down?

I shutter to think that it is no longer up since it was a wealth of
information and interesting things.

Thanks,
Joe

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Mar 28 19:04:52 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 19:04:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Amicale Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>
References: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003281904i221b1084nb423e1acd955f972@mail.gmail.com>

Is this it?

http://www.amicalespitfire.fr

Pardon my French -- you may need to translate.  Perhaps it is just the
dot-com version that is gone.

On 3/28/10, Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:
> I have been trying to pull up the French Spitfire Club website (Amicale
> Spitfires) for several days without success.
>
> Does anybody know if the site has changed addresses or has been taken down?
>
> I shutter to think that it is no longer up since it was a wealth of
> information and interesting things.
>
> Thanks,
> Joe
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Mon Mar 29 02:07:18 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 05:07:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <043d01cace99$128a1d80$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <8dc95.5db21f12.38e0d39e@aol.com>
	<043d01cace99$128a1d80$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <a38798b31003290207mbf60aefu89d2004d8e1d3d14@mail.gmail.com>

The other difference regarding the UK is that if you learn only an
automatic, and take your driving test in an automatic, that is all you are
licenced to drive. You have to take the driving test in a manual car to be
allowed to drive one. Manual-tested drivers are licenced, though, to drive
automatics.

So pretty much everyone learns to drive a manual car.

Automatic cars are much more common today in the UK. Not as dominant as here
in the US, but not as rare as they once were. I think they were rare
because, as (almost) everyone learned manual driving and automatic-equipped
cars were premium-priced compared to the manual variant; no-one feared
driving with 3 pedals, so why pay more? Also, manuals could deliver better
fuel mileage - a most important consideration given the UK fuel taxes. There
was always a sense too, of manual driving being 'real' driving.

I remember my first company car was an automatic. The first non-manual I had
driven, I was 23 years old. I had to tuck my left foot under the seat to
stop it reaching out for a clutch.

Brian

On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 1:06 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I found that
> > those who had
> > started  off on automatics, and had no mechanical knowledge,
> > just could never be
> > as  competent as those who started off on a manual.
>
> But perhaps that is effect rather than cause?  IOW those who had trouble
> with the kind of coordination required to drive a stick were more likely to
> seek out automatics in the first place?
>
> I suspect this might be more common in the UK, where manuals are the
> default
> configuration and it takes some effort to wind up in an automatic.  Here in
> the US the situation is reversed, automatics have been the default
> configuration for many decades.  My Buick, for example, was simply not
> available with a manual; and I had to special-order my Chevy through
> Detroit
> to get a manual transmission.
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr4zest at gmail.com

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Mon Mar 29 02:47:05 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 11:47:05 +0200
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
Message-ID: <2BED657D32C540BAA3BB71D413A81AD1@Study>

This is an interesting one. My TR4A has syncromesh on all 4 gears,
but if you want to change from 2nd to 1st you have to double declutch on the
way (just as you had to do on those 20's and 30's cars with straight cut
gears) or it is very reluctant to go.

So with good syncro you just have to depress the clutch and move the gear
lever into the desired gear which you could show anyone with normal
coordination in two minutes, but I would imagine you would need more time to
learn how to double declutch.

I would'nt be too concerned for my TR4 gearbox which might emit horrendous
sounds when mishandled but no damage is likely to result.

Of course YMMV,

David Brister.
1967 TR4A


--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 5738 of my spam emails to date.
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Mar 29 05:05:27 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 08:05:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Amicale Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>
References: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <8CC9D4F40F65BF7-6440-172BC@Webmail-m116.sysops.aol.com>

I have been trying to pull up the French Spitfire Club website (Amicale
Spitfires) for several days without success.

Does anybody know if the site has changed addresses or has been taken down?

I shutter to think that it is no longer up since it was a wealth of
information and interesting things.

Thanks,




 Try this.  Looks like they have a new address
http://www.amicalespitfire.fr/
But it looks like the technical page is not responding.   Maybe a try later
will work.






I know some folks at Triumph Club de France.  I could inquire through that
channel.

Dave

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Mar 29 05:40:38 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 08:40:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 fan distributor question
In-Reply-To: <42D769A2EAE44FF0AC896CAD98EBBD9D@CarlPC>
References: <42D769A2EAE44FF0AC896CAD98EBBD9D@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <28E28B32866C4E64A2F15D8199A6279C@CarlPC>

What is the difference between a 25D and a 45D distributor.  Are they 
interchangeable on a late TR3A?

Thank you
Carl
Project update:
Engine/tranny are back on the chassis
Drive shaft; exhaust; fuel/brake pipes next weekend
Body ready to drop the week after that
Back to the paint shop soon after.
(I sure hope everything still lines up since the trial fit in December)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(I need to update my pictures; 11/27/09)

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Mon Mar 29 06:06:46 2010
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 09:06:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive standard
Message-ID: <fac10b171003290606u63d65accg4b4ae59ae1452bb@mail.gmail.com>

I started driving when I was about 8 - on the family tractor. I thought my
age must have been exaggerated downward in my mind over the years but then
some old home movies surfaced and there I was.
After a few years of lighter duty work I was assigned to pulling the hay
wagon as it was loaded up. This is a great way to learn how to work a clutch
- with a tremendously underpowered tractor (a Ferguson with what to those
who read this forum is a strangely familiar looking engine) pulling way too
big a load. Operating the throttle by hand while letting out the clutch with
the left foot, and having to do it smoothly so the guys on the wagon didn't
end up off the wagon, so to speak, was good preparation for eventually
learning to drive a car with a manual transmission. Once I got behind the
wheel everything fell into place.
Sadly, no sooner had I mastered pulling the wagon than I grew big enough to
be sent back to load the wagon, where the bigger boys all said that everyone
really should be able to lift bales their own weight. When you're about 11
and weigh 80 pounds it becomes quite a challenge!
So there's my two cents. Get the young lady started on a tractor. In a
field.
Jim

PS Tim - in your experience were the farm kids who went to driving school
any more adept? Just curious.

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Mar 29 06:27:33 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:27:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <87a8a.55a3ef12.38e0afbe@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1704358503.7458741269869253559.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:

>
> Hi Pat; if your niece has been driving for a little while already, but
> on  
> an automatic, I think it is going to be very difficult to teach her
> how to 
> drive  a manual gearbox correctly. 

I'm going to join with the group that thinks this is nonsense.

I started on automatic.  Never drove a stick until after I had my license.  I have mostly sticks now.  A little bit of fooling around with a 1963 Chev station wagon and I had it figured out.

Once the basics of driving are ingrained, you have more brain free to deal with learning the stick part.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar 29 06:31:24 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 08:31:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive standard
In-Reply-To: <fac10b171003290606u63d65accg4b4ae59ae1452bb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <fac10b171003290606u63d65accg4b4ae59ae1452bb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A85F6E3231D443C7A43AE6BBA66DD1D1@ranteer.local>

funny - I started out on a lawn tractor, too.  not the same as the hay 
puller, but it taught me how to work a clutch.  also learned how to back up 
with a trailer.  that's been helpful, too!

first manual transmission I ever drove was my older brother's friend's gto. 
yeah, I know.  tough.  got right in and drove off.  no issues.  so I guess 
the moral of the story is start out on a tractor <grin>

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jim Wallace" <grandfatherjim at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 8:06 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive standard

> I started driving when I was about 8 - on the family tractor. I thought my
> age must have been exaggerated downward in my mind over the years but then
> some old home movies surfaced and there I was.
> After a few years of lighter duty work I was assigned to pulling the hay
> wagon as it was loaded up. This is a great way to learn how to work a 
> clutch
> - with a tremendously underpowered tractor (a Ferguson with what to those
> who read this forum is a strangely familiar looking engine) pulling way 
> too
> big a load. Operating the throttle by hand while letting out the clutch 
> with
> the left foot, and having to do it smoothly so the guys on the wagon 
> didn't
> end up off the wagon, so to speak, was good preparation for eventually
> learning to drive a car with a manual transmission. Once I got behind the
> wheel everything fell into place.
> Sadly, no sooner had I mastered pulling the wagon than I grew big enough 
> to
> be sent back to load the wagon, where the bigger boys all said that 
> everyone
> really should be able to lift bales their own weight. When you're about 11
> and weigh 80 pounds it becomes quite a challenge!
> So there's my two cents. Get the young lady started on a tractor. In a
> field.
> Jim
>
> PS Tim - in your experience were the farm kids who went to driving school
> any more adept? Just curious.

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Mar 29 06:48:17 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:48:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <14533232.823633.1269749343516.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <1357954041.7465991269870497288.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:

> For me, I am going to rent a $26 manual and give it a rough day.B 

Where can you rent a $26 manual?


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Mon Mar 29 07:24:01 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 09:24:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a manual
Message-ID: <5C4669EB-444D-4EE8-B443-DB09B3DC9004@ties2.net>

Visit Click and Clack's site
http://www.cartalk.com/content/stick-shift/how.html

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Mar 29 07:58:15 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 14:58:15 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Amicale Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>
References: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <999190.19143.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

It's still there Joe at www.amicalespitfire.fr - though it looks as though the
English part of the site has been abandoned. Inconvenient I suppose for those
who don't speak French but it is a French club and a lot of people in that
country incline towards the French language rather than anything else :)
Jonmac




________________________________
From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 29 March,
2010 2:29:22
Subject: [TR] Amicale Spitfires

I have been trying to pull up
the French Spitfire Club website (Amicale
Spitfires) for several days without
success.

Does anybody know if the site has changed addresses or has been
taken down?

I shutter to think that it is no longer up since it was a wealth
of
information and interesting things.

Thanks,
Joe
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Mar 29 08:05:50 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 11:05:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] LAwn Tractor Training.....
Message-ID: <64605.550ea209.38e21bce@aol.com>

List,
 
I was thinking about my lawn tractor experiences (and how they relate to  
today's driving) the other day as I began the heart breaking decision to  
finally buy a new tractor after 34 years of faithful service from the old  
Sears 8hp 30" .
 
I think that I learned a lot about proper shifting, power sliding, the apex 
 of a fast turn (1.8 mph!) from my pre-license years motoring around on  
various lawn & garden tractors......actually, come to think of it,  I still 
have a lot of fun with my garden tractor:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U 
 
 
In a message dated 3/29/2010 9:53:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

funny -  I started out on a lawn tractor,  too. 

From januaryw at gmail.com  Mon Mar 29 08:58:46 2010
From: januaryw at gmail.com (January Williams)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 08:58:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A available, Portland OR
Message-ID: <5098defe1003290858r14e41a02wd67675b307e54fff@mail.gmail.com>

My bro-inlaw is selling his TR3A, TS 509xx L,  white, good condition driver,
Mini-lites, Portland Oregon area.

Contact me offline / January Williams / januaryw at gmail dot com

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Mon Mar 29 09:36:36 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 09:36:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lawn Tractor Training.....
In-Reply-To: <64605.550ea209.38e21bce@aol.com>
References: <64605.550ea209.38e21bce@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7A930F1E-3AEE-40EC-A38E-0947228943AF@cox.net>

The lawn tractor theme reminded me of my teaching my son to drive a stick - in
a large blade-less lawn tractor - an MG Midget.  At the time we were living in
Pittsburgh, PA (the land of constant hills), so smooth clutch work is needed
about 30% time (e.g., pulling away from a traffic light or stop sign while
going up hill).  We spent a lot of time practicing it, until I realized that
most of the time you shift the clutch is basically an on-off switch.  Once I
told mu son to treat the clutch was a variable control and the gas peddle was
the on-off switch he picked it up after a couple of ties.

So six years later when I taught my daughter to drive a stick in that same
Midget it was a piece of cake.  However, by that time we had moved to Florida
and the challenge was to find something that somewhat approximated a slope!!
:-)

John


On  29 Mar, 2010, at 8:05 AM, chip19474 at aol.com wrote:

> List,
>
> I was thinking about my lawn tractor experiences (and how they relate to
> today's driving) the other day as I began the heart breaking decision to
> finally buy a new tractor after 34 years of faithful service from the old
> Sears 8hp 30" .
>
> nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/60tr3a at cox.net
>

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Mon Mar 29 10:58:02 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:58:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive a TR
In-Reply-To: <1704358503.7458741269869253559.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <87a8a.55a3ef12.38e0afbe@aol.com>
	<1704358503.7458741269869253559.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <a38798b31003291058m439097bdxbffb13a113ea1e45@mail.gmail.com>

"Once the basics of driving are ingrained, you have more brain free to deal
with learning the stick part."

Agreed. It also helps to have been a cyclist among traffic before you get to
drive a car.

Brian

On Mon, Mar 29, 2010 at 9:27 AM, <pethier at comcast.net> wrote:

> ----- KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Pat; if your niece has been driving for a little while already, but
> > on
> > an automatic, I think it is going to be very difficult to teach her
> > how to
> > drive  a manual gearbox correctly.
>
> I'm going to join with the group that thinks this is nonsense.
>
> I started on automatic.  Never drove a stick until after I had my license.
>  I have mostly sticks now.  A little bit of fooling around with a 1963 Chev
> station wagon and I had it figured out.
>
> Once the basics of driving are ingrained, you have more brain free to deal
> with learning the stick part.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
> 1979 Caterham Super Seven
> 2004 Suburban 8.1
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
> http://www.mnautox.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr4zest at gmail.com

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Mar 29 13:57:50 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 16:57:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive standard
In-Reply-To: <A85F6E3231D443C7A43AE6BBA66DD1D1@ranteer.local>
References: <fac10b171003290606u63d65accg4b4ae59ae1452bb@mail.gmail.com>
	<A85F6E3231D443C7A43AE6BBA66DD1D1@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <z8zB1d0065K6Zm8058zFDx@charter.net>

At 09:31 AM 3/29/2010, oliver wrote:

>first manual transmission I ever drove...

...was a VW Automatic Stick Shift.  There may have been alcohol 
involved.  I never did quite figure it out.

Then I got my hands on a Fiat 124.  Lots of stalling, but I got the 
hang of it pretty quick.  Next up was my fist Spitfire...36 years ago.


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Mar 29 14:37:23 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 21:37:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
In-Reply-To: <1544477148.11080891269898491520.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1195931612.11082091269898643949.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

> >BTW, a felt battery post washer is a perfect fit under the screen.B

>Yeah, but there are supposed to be some ring magnets there.

Uh oh.B  Ring magnets?B  Car didn't come with those, and I never thought to
check the manual to see if I was missing anything.



I just checked the Moss diagram.B  Is the purpose to catch metallic flakes, I
suppose?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 29 14:43:52 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 14:43:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive standard
In-Reply-To: <z8zB1d0065K6Zm8058zFDx@charter.net>
References: <fac10b171003290606u63d65accg4b4ae59ae1452bb@mail.gmail.com>
	<A85F6E3231D443C7A43AE6BBA66DD1D1@ranteer.local>
	<z8zB1d0065K6Zm8058zFDx@charter.net>
Message-ID: <0fea01cacf88$ed508720$c7f19560$@rr.com>

> >first manual transmission I ever drove...
> 
> ...was a VW Automatic Stick Shift.  There may have been alcohol
> involved.  I never did quite figure it out.

A strange creation indeed.  Microswitches in the shift lever were supposed
to detect when you grabbed it, and automagically disengage the
vacuum-operated clutch.  The torque converter took care of stopping and any
speed mismatch, so the clutch could simply be engaged fairly rapidly when
you let go of the lever.

I had one briefly, but never got it working properly.  The starter ring gear
was apparently originally spot-welded to the torque converter housing, and
the welds were broken.  The fellow that gave it to me had never had a title
for it, so when it got towed away (due to bogus registration), I just let it
go.

All things considered, I'd rather have an A-type <G>

-- Randall 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Mar 29 14:50:19 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 21:50:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Oil Seals
In-Reply-To: <a38798b31003290207mbf60aefu89d2004d8e1d3d14@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2053827465.11087461269899419584.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

All right, I'm ready.B Done.B It's time to move on it.B Gadfrey.

I'm using the original oil pan and a valve cover from E-Bay.B  The valve cover
leaks, even with that terrific silicon gasket.B  The oil pan, I'm not sure,
but there's oil everywhere under there.B  The front and rear seals are new.B 
The rear is the modified new type.

What valve cover do people recommend?B  And if anyone has a good one hanging
around, I'm interested.

But before that, what exactly is it about oil pan distortion caused by erratic
torquing of the bolts. ISTR discussion that this is noted as a reason for them
not to seal properly, and has almost certainly happened on my 50 year old
pan.B  Is that a myth?

I fail to see the humor in dead pan.B  Or is it, dead-pan humor???



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hamsphire

From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Mar 29 15:40:22 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:40:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
References: <1195931612.11082091269898643949.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D4B0F36A61174072902C4932E39767C6@DCS78M81>

We cut a magnet out of a used refrigerator magnet. At first teardown it was 
working fine...
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change


>> >BTW, a felt battery post washer is a perfect fit under the screen.B
>
>>Yeah, but there are supposed to be some ring magnets there.
>
> Uh oh.B  Ring magnets?B  Car didn't come with those, and I never thought 
> to
> check the manual to see if I was missing anything.
>
>
>
> I just checked the Moss diagram.B  Is the purpose to catch metallic 
> flakes, I
> suppose?
>
>
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

From bielings at comcast.net  Mon Mar 29 15:41:39 2010
From: bielings at comcast.net (bielings)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:41:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission tool
Message-ID: <2BF09C18F01E40139B1D79F9140E407E@bielings>

I am rebuilding  the shifter lever controls in TR3 transmission.
In order to remove the shifter forks I need to take out a retaining bolt.
It's head is square about 8mm. Anyone know where to get
a drive or socket that will fit it properly.
Pete Bieling

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Mon Mar 29 16:02:59 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 19:02:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] Driving a Stick
Message-ID: <57d42.29de08f2.38e28ba3@aol.com>

Many years ago I had a very nice 1968 Plymouth Valiant for sale.   One guy 
came to see/drive it, saying his wife and daughter needed a car.   The car 
was perfect but had a three-speed column shift.   The ladies did not drive 
stick shifts.   He left without the car but came back in a couple days and 
bought it, saying, "They'll learn to shift."   Don't know how that went over at 
home but I had to give the guy credit for his courage.
George

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 29 16:38:09 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 16:38:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil Seals
In-Reply-To: <2053827465.11087461269899419584.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <a38798b31003290207mbf60aefu89d2004d8e1d3d14@mail.gmail.com>
	<2053827465.11087461269899419584.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <104501cacf98$e4689c00$ad39d400$@rr.com>

> All right, I'm ready.B Done.B It's time to move on it.B Gadfrey.

Any chance you could teach your email client to speak only ASCII?  Those
'B's are getting annoying ...

> What valve cover do people recommend?B  

I rather like the original stamped steel one.  With one of Justin's silicone
gaskets, it shouldn't leak unless there is actually a hole in it somewhere,
or a substantial flaw in the sealing surfaces.  And not being able to use
Justin's gasket with the aftermarket covers would be major minus, for me.

> And if anyone has a good one hanging
> around, I'm interested.

I'm sure you can find one closer to home, but if not, I'm sure I've got a
few.  Might need some minor tapping back into shape here and there, though.

> But before that, what exactly is it about oil pan distortion caused by
> erratic
> torquing of the bolts.

I'm not sure I understand the question.  The problem isn't so much erratic
tightening, as overtightening.  Too much force crushes the gasket and
distorts the pan flange, ensuring that it cannot seal.

> Is that a myth?

Nope, it's quite real.  Lay any sort of straightedge along the sealing
surface and look to see how they meet.  If you happen to have a cylinder
block handy, you can lay the pan on it without a gasket, and use a feeler
gauge to check for gaps.

> I fail to see the humor in dead pan.B  Or is it, dead-pan humor???

I wouldn't know anything about that.  But I'd sure hate to try to cook with
a live one.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 29 16:45:16 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 16:45:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Transmission tool
In-Reply-To: <2BF09C18F01E40139B1D79F9140E407E@bielings>
References: <2BF09C18F01E40139B1D79F9140E407E@bielings>
Message-ID: <104601cacf99$e2aa7bd0$a7ff7370$@rr.com>

> I am rebuilding  the shifter lever controls in TR3 transmission.
> In order to remove the shifter forks I need to take out a retaining
> bolt.
> It's head is square about 8mm. Anyone know where to get
> a drive or socket that will fit it properly.

Any decent tool supply should be able to sell you a 5/16" 8-point socket.

I got mine at Sears, but you could mail-order from McMaster-Carr if you
wanted to.  
P/N 5543A63 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drive-sockets/=6fmx6u

I also find it helps to use a T-bar with both hands to turn the socket, so
there is little or no side force applied to the set screw.  The original TR3
ones weren't so fragile, but the later ones with the nylon insert snap
really easy.

-- Randall 

From dlylis at gmail.com  Mon Mar 29 16:47:12 2010
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 23:47:12 +0000
Subject: [TR] Oil Seals
In-Reply-To: <2053827465.11087461269899419584.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <a38798b31003290207mbf60aefu89d2004d8e1d3d14@mail.gmail.com><2053827465.11087461269899419584.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.0.1269910111.911.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Terry,
Two things:
1.  I have found that if you do not flatten the hole areas on the oil pan with a ball peen, no amount of abbra cadabbra is going to prevent pan drips. 
2.  I thought that the original scroll for a rear seal was laughable until I installed the "new and improved" modern rear seal.  What makes this even more laughable is the wad that I spent on it. 
I may be wrong here, but I recall something about wrong specs for the crank grind for the modern seal.  
My remedy was easy. I bought the biggest drip pan I could find. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: terryrs at comcast.net
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 21:50:19 
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Oil Seals

All right, I'm ready.B Done.B It's time to move on it.B Gadfrey.

I'm using the original oil pan and a valve cover from E-Bay.B  The valve cover
leaks, even with that terrific silicon gasket.B  The oil pan, I'm not sure,
but there's oil everywhere under there.B  The front and rear seals are new.B 
The rear is the modified new type.

What valve cover do people recommend?B  And if anyone has a good one hanging
around, I'm interested.

But before that, what exactly is it about oil pan distortion caused by erratic
torquing of the bolts. ISTR discussion that this is noted as a reason for them
not to seal properly, and has almost certainly happened on my 50 year old
pan.B  Is that a myth?

I fail to see the humor in dead pan.B  Or is it, dead-pan humor???



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hamsphire

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Mar 29 16:54:11 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 19:54:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 fan hub measurement
In-Reply-To: <28E28B32866C4E64A2F15D8199A6279C@CarlPC>
References: <42D769A2EAE44FF0AC896CAD98EBBD9D@CarlPC>
	<28E28B32866C4E64A2F15D8199A6279C@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <0782A96CC5DC4D239227D04DCDA43BDF@CarlPC>

Good evening all.

I mounted the fan hub, pulley, extension yesterday.   The pulley is 
extremely close to the center tie rod.  Could someone please measure the 
distance from the timing cover to the back of the fan hub?

Thanks
Carl

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Mar 29 17:04:57 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 20:04:57 EDT
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive standard
Message-ID: <2b6e9.b10fc8b.38e29a29@aol.com>

Hi all;
 
>From the nature of some of the posts, it seems I may have offended some of  
our friends on this list, for which I profusely apologise. Just to clarify, 
 you'll be aware that I stated  to Pat "I think it is going to be very  
difficult to teach her how to drive a manual gearbox correctly". Significantly, 
 I most definitely did not say that she could not learn to drive a manual 
gearbox  correctly, which are two very different things. I am sure she could 
learn to  drive a manual gearbox car properly, but for most it takes time, 
usually on  their own once the basic lesson is over. So, I believe the result 
of the  'teaching' bit might not seem all that successful. The result of 
the 'time and  experience' bit, on her own, might well be. I also want to 
clarify that I was  not being sexist, nor ageist, in my comments.
 
Perhaps a good approach might be to negotiate with the niece's parents so  
that the niece gets a manual gearbox car as her daily driver. Pat then 
teaches  niece how to drive it, then occasionally rides with niece in the daily 
driver  until happy with how it's being driven, then moves her on to the TR. 
 
I happen to be very picky about how my cars (especially my historic ones)  
are driven, and that comes into the equation too.
 
So, without wishing to beat a dead horse, I definitely was not saying,  
Pat, that your niece will never learn to drive a car with a manual  gearbox. I 
think once the initial lesson is over, it just comes with  experience and 
time.
 
On a lighter note, while we're exchanging banter on our first car  
experiences, I learned to drive on my dad's vintage racer in the  mid '70's, a 1926 
Bentley 3-Litre boat tail with a centre throttle (yup,  brake on the right), 
an outside gearchange with no synchro on any gear and only  rear brakes, 
actuated by cables. He sold the car for 200 quid in 1974,  because he wanted 
to concentrate on getting our TR3A back on the road.
 
And Jim: Yes, I did teach some farm kids how to pass their Advanced Driving 
 Test in the UK. I could never figure out why they would begin to pull away 
 smoothly, then in the last couple of millimetres of clutch travel, the car 
would  jerk and they'd stall it. Once I moved to Canada and began to 
understand  tractors, I developed the theory that it was because I realised that 
tractors  have a governor that helps prevent them from stalling. Modern cars 
have  anti-stall devices as part of an emissions system, which again makes 
them easier  to pull away.
 
I hope my apology serves to dissipate any offence.
 
Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 29 18:06:27 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:06:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive standard
In-Reply-To: <2b6e9.b10fc8b.38e29a29@aol.com>
References: <2b6e9.b10fc8b.38e29a29@aol.com>
Message-ID: <109801cacfa5$3a6d5e40$af481ac0$@rr.com>

Tim,

I certainly hope you didn't think I was offended in any way.  I don't
necessarily agree 100%, but I'm not offended.

And besides, while it may be sexist or whatever; it is true that females
tend to have a different skill set than males.  It's simply a fact of life,
just like men don't give birth to babies.  All thing considered, we may have
gotten the short end of the stick (but I have no interest in trading!).

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 29 18:18:42 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:18:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil Seals
In-Reply-To: <20100330011033.1EE8C187907@autox.team.net>
References: <a38798b31003290207mbf60aefu89d2004d8e1d3d14@mail.gmail.com><2053827465.11087461269899419584.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20100330011033.1EE8C187907@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <109901cacfa6$f081a730$d184f590$@rr.com>

> I may be wrong here, but I recall something about wrong specs for the
> crank grind for the modern seal.

Yup, been lots of folks burned by that one.  If you search the archives, I
think you'll find several posts on the subject, including a suggestion to
modify the spring in the new seal.  There's also a tech article on the TRSC
web site giving a half dozen or so other things to check for.

Oddly enough, the scroll seal was actually intended as an improvement.
Considering that some of us are still running the original seal over 50
years later I think testifies that the goal was met!  With the seal
materials and technology available at the time these engines were designed,
most seals would be leaking significantly by 30,000 miles.  The biggest
problems with it are the later so-called PCV systems that allow pressure to
build up in the crankcase; and a typographical error in the workshop manual.

-- Randall 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Mar 29 19:02:11 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 19:02:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Oil Seals
In-Reply-To: <109901cacfa6$f081a730$d184f590$@rr.com>
References: <a38798b31003290207mbf60aefu89d2004d8e1d3d14@mail.gmail.com><2053827465.11087461269899419584.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20100330011033.1EE8C187907@autox.team.net>
	<109901cacfa6$f081a730$d184f590$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <608163.88983.qm@web113318.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

im sure im going to regret saying this, because as soon as i do Murphy's law
will intervene.
i bought the new scroll kit from the roadster factory
i had
the crank ground to the instruction size and had it polished.
drilled the
extra drain holes as instructed.
where i differed from the instructions was as
follows

i made the joint in the seal to the top of the motor

i made sure
every thing was spotlessly clean of oil (modern silicone rtv? sealants are
extremely intolerable of oils)

i then wiped with a barley oily finger the
part of the crank that was to be at the joint in the seal. not even wet.

i
laid a bead of silicone in the seal housing where the joint would be.

i
caulked the ends of the seal with silicone. liberally.

i wrapped the spring
so the spring joint was at the bottom of the motor

i carefully drooped the
crank and seal in place, being careful not to rotate the crank

bolted it down
tight left it alone for about 5 days to let the silicone cure.

so far i have
put 2000 miles on my new motor and i don't have a drop of oil anywhere.
chalk
me up as one for the modern seal and lets see how long it lasts

Frank
________________________________
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, March 29, 2010 6:18:42 PM
Subject: Re: [TR]
Oil Seals

> I may be wrong here, but I recall something about wrong specs for
the
> crank grind for the modern seal.

Yup, been lots of folks burned by that
one.  If you search the archives, I
think you'll find several posts on the
subject, including a suggestion to
modify the spring in the new seal.  There's
also a tech article on the TRSC
web site giving a half dozen or so other
things to check for.

Oddly enough, the scroll seal was actually intended as
an improvement.
Considering that some of us are still running the original
seal over 50
years later I think testifies that the goal was met!  With the
seal
materials and technology available at the time these engines were
designed,
most seals would be leaking significantly by 30,000 miles.  The
biggest
problems with it are the later so-called PCV systems that allow
pressure to
build up in the crankcase; and a typographical error in the
workshop manual.

-- Randall 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From spitfire at freebacon.net  Mon Mar 29 19:26:52 2010
From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 20:26:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] Amicale Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <999190.19143.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>
	<999190.19143.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5A52B8A4C2BB46A2B75EB89F4E89B5E8@Spike>

I hope they provide an English translated site, I can't read French...it's 
like they have a different word for *everything*.

Mike Welch
'69 Spitfire MkIII x2
Colorado Springs, CO
--------------------------------------------------
From: "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 8:58 AM
To: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<spitfires at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Amicale Spitfires

> It's still there Joe at www.amicalespitfire.fr - though it looks as though 
> the
> English part of the site has been abandoned. Inconvenient I suppose for 
> those
> who don't speak French but it is a French club and a lot of people in that
> country incline towards the French language rather than anything else :)
> Jonmac
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net
> Sent: Mon, 29 March,
> 2010 2:29:22
> Subject: [TR] Amicale Spitfires
>
> I have been trying to pull up
> the French Spitfire Club website (Amicale
> Spitfires) for several days without
> success.
>
> Does anybody know if the site has changed addresses or has been
> taken down?
>
> I shutter to think that it is no longer up since it was a wealth
> of
> information and interesting things.
>
> Thanks,
> Joe
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitfire at freebacon.net

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Mar 29 20:08:20 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 23:08:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Amicale Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <5A52B8A4C2BB46A2B75EB89F4E89B5E8@Spike>
References: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew><999190.19143.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<5A52B8A4C2BB46A2B75EB89F4E89B5E8@Spike>
Message-ID: <8CC9DCD62F9968F-19F4-540A@webmail-d025.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Welch <spitfire at freebacon.net>


I hope they provide an English translated site, I can't read French...it's
like they have a different word for *everything*.

==AM==
According to babelfish.altavista.com translator, that word is "tout"! :-)

Sorry, I couldn't resist!

--Andy Mace (MacC) many generations ago, and that's about all the French I
know)

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Mar 29 20:13:13 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 23:13:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive standard
In-Reply-To: <0fea01cacf88$ed508720$c7f19560$@rr.com>
References: <fac10b171003290606u63d65accg4b4ae59ae1452bb@mail.gmail.com><A85F6E3231D443C7A43AE6BBA66DD1D1@ranteer.local><z8zB1d0065K6Zm8058zFDx@charter.net>
	<0fea01cacf88$ed508720$c7f19560$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CC9DCE1145D6D2-19F4-54D0@webmail-d025.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>


> ...was a VW Automatic Stick Shift.  There may have been alcohol
> involved.  I never did quite figure it out.

A strange creation indeed.  Microswitches in the shift lever were supposed
to detect when you grabbed it, and automagically disengage the
vacuum-operated clutch.  The torque converter took care of stopping and any
speed mismatch, so the clutch could simply be engaged fairly rapidly when
you let go of the lever.

==AM==
That was not all that different than the optional "Standrive" (Standard 10) or
"Triumatic" (the version in the US Triumph 10)!
I think that the major difference was that the Standrive/Triumatic didn't
really have a torque converter as such; rather, some
really bizarre, clever clutch setup.
==AM==

All things considered, I'd rather have an A-type <G>

==AM==
At least in theory, one could have had both on a Standard / Triumph 10, with a
Laycock overdrive behind the Standrive /
 Triumatic gearbox -- a seven-speed "automatic"!

--Andy Mace

*Mrs
Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a
 jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
--
Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph
 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph
 Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database:
http://triumph-herald.us

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Mar 29 20:15:07 2010
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 23:15:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Amicale Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <5A52B8A4C2BB46A2B75EB89F4E89B5E8@Spike>
References: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>
	<999190.19143.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<5A52B8A4C2BB46A2B75EB89F4E89B5E8@Spike>
Message-ID: <4BB16CBB.3030701@uga.edu>

If you will Google the URL for the site in of course Google, in the 
results,out beside the  hit for the site, it wil sayy "translate this 
page"  and voila, you have an English version. I highlighted the 
translate option.

Here's what it looked like on my list: (text version)
Amicale Spitfire - Cyberspit
  - *[ Translate this page ]*
Amicale Spitfire Bienvenue sur Cyberspit ! Ce forum est riservi aux 
discussions autour des Triumphs. Lisez-moi. Recherche : Partout, Texte, 
Auteur, Sujet ...
www.amicalespitfire.fr/ - Cached - Similar


Doug

On 3/29/2010 10:26 PM, Mike Welch wrote:
> I hope they provide an English translated site, I can't read 
> French...it's like they have a different word for *everything*.

From cwnfot at gmail.com  Mon Mar 29 20:24:56 2010
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 23:24:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  Amicale Spitfires - translate
In-Reply-To: <5A52B8A4C2BB46A2B75EB89F4E89B5E8@Spike>
References: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>
	<999190.19143.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<5A52B8A4C2BB46A2B75EB89F4E89B5E8@Spike>
Message-ID: <00a201cacfb8$92e2ce30$b8a86a90$@com>

If you use IE 8, under the Page pull down pick "all accelerators".
I have an option there for "Google Translate".
Perhaps I gained this by downloading some Google software, I don't know why
it is there...
Possibly search Google for "Google translate accelerator" and add it to your
browser.
I used it on a Russian site that was quite interesting once translated!

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration)
"Reality, it's not what you think."

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Mar 29 20:30:07 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 21:30:07 -0600
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  Amicale Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <5A52B8A4C2BB46A2B75EB89F4E89B5E8@Spike>
References: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>
	<999190.19143.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<5A52B8A4C2BB46A2B75EB89F4E89B5E8@Spike>
Message-ID: <4BB1703F.3010803@bradakis.com>

 >  I can't read French...it's like they have a different word for 
*everything*.

Oui.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Mar 29 20:57:53 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 21:57:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] Oil Seals
In-Reply-To: <608163.88983.qm@web113318.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <a38798b31003290207mbf60aefu89d2004d8e1d3d14@mail.gmail.com><2053827465.11087461269899419584.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20100330011033.1EE8C187907@autox.team.net>
	<109901cacfa6$f081a730$d184f590$@rr.com>
	<608163.88983.qm@web113318.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4BB176C1.40808@bradakis.com>

> i then wiped with a barley oily finger
>   

I've brewed beer since 1984.  Still I'm not exactly sure what
barley oil might be. ;-)

The vast majority of leakage from sump pans and valve covers
that I've seen has been because someone along the line mistakenly
thought that if tight is good, tighter is even better.  What you end
up with is the edges around the bolt holes being distorted and stretched
out of shape, instead of a nice level surface.  It takes some time with
a proper hammer and "anvil" to return the gasket flanges to a shape
closely resembling what they looked like when they left the factory.

For valve covers, also make sure the area around the fastening bolts
is flat and not caved in.  Somewhere I have the part number for the
Honda Goldwing valve cover seals that work perfectly on Triumphs.
Ted S. usually has them at his booths during various shows and races.

mjb.

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Mar 29 21:08:01 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 21:08:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Spits]  Amicale Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <8CC9DCD62F9968F-19F4-540A@webmail-d025.sysops.aol.com>
References: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew><999190.19143.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com><5A52B8A4C2BB46A2B75EB89F4E89B5E8@Spike>
	<8CC9DCD62F9968F-19F4-540A@webmail-d025.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <09A5755A42794875BB3BA3F4272D9887@joepentiumnew>

They "DID" include an English translation which is a selectable option at
the main page.  But it doesn't appear to be active anymore.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Mace
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 8:08 PM
To: spitfire at freebacon.net; triumphs at autox.team.net;
spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] Amicale Spitfires

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Welch <spitfire at freebacon.net>


I hope they provide an English translated site, I can't read French...it's
like they have a different word for *everything*.

==AM==
According to babelfish.altavista.com translator, that word is "tout"! :-)

Sorry, I couldn't resist!

--Andy Mace (MacC) many generations ago, and that's about all the French I
know)

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us
_______________________________________________

Spitfires at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/spitlist at cox.net

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Mon Mar 29 21:37:42 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 21:37:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Learning to drive standard
In-Reply-To: <2b6e9.b10fc8b.38e29a29@aol.com>
References: <2b6e9.b10fc8b.38e29a29@aol.com>
Message-ID: <250070.86938.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Hi Tim,
No worries (as young people say) about your post to me/list.  I never
saw it as demeaning to anyone or inappropriate....Sara, my niece, has a desire
to drive the car, but I don't know how serious or motivated the desire is.  (I
know she's excited that I'm getting the car back home soon.)  It could be a
case that once she's in the driver's seat, she'll want to move back to the
passenger seat.  On the other hand, if she is serious, the driving lesson will
have to be repeated time and again as students learn through repetition of
lessons....I did get a lot of good advice from the List and I am thankful for
it.  I now have some good reference points on how to proceed with the driving
lesson.

Thank you, Tim, for your post.

Best regards,
Pat

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Tue Mar 30 03:06:29 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 06:06:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oil Seals
In-Reply-To: <2053827465.11087461269899419584.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <a38798b31003290207mbf60aefu89d2004d8e1d3d14@mail.gmail.com>
	<2053827465.11087461269899419584.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <a38798b31003300306y9b208cck5b4e0fc842a6a594@mail.gmail.com>

Terry,

Randall's advice about a straight edge is good. I went about it differently,
though. Outside of daylight hours, put a flashlight (I used a small,
free-standing camping light) on a flat surface, like a kitchen counter.
Invert the oil pan over the light and look edge-on at the point the pan
meets the flat surface. Streams of light will guide your work.
Over-tightened bolt holes stand like mini volcanoes where the tight bolt has
compressed the gasket and stretched the steel. This method works for me
because it gives you the 'whole picture', instantly.

I didn't have or need an anvil. I put a piece of hard wood (oak, or similar)
flat on the surface. Mine was a left-over oak tread, but you'll use what you
have. I used another piece of oak end-grain on to flatten the lip, helped by
a bfh. Check your work as you go with the light.

Once I had the pan as flat as I could get it, I glued the gasket to the pan
very carefully and thoroughly with a 'modern' sealant and allowed that to
dry for a day, inverted on a flat surface. I cleaned up the sealing edge of
the sump and then used a non-hardening sealant (Hylomar, I think) to seal
between the pan's gasket and the sump when I fitted the pan. I put Hylomar
on the bolts as I put the thing together. It has proven to be dry.

In the same way, as I have gone over the car, it has been my practice, where
I can, to secure the gasket to the thing I can remove, and use a
non-hardening sealant between that item and 'the car' - like the timing
cover, for example. When it comes to remove it, the gasket should come away
with the part. Scraping clean something in your hand for a new gasket, on
the bench, is a lot easier than cleaning up the other mating surface in or
under the car. It also helps, I think, to have on assembly, one half of the
joint sealed and cured, rather than have bolts squeezing ozzing goop on both
sides of the gasket. Gradually tighten all bolts in turn, so you evenly
bring the two mating faces together.

The advantage of fixing the gasket to the part you can remove was was
brought home recently. I had to remove (for the first time) my timing cover.
The gasket was fixed very securely to the block with a very hard adhesive.
It took HOURS of scraping to remove it. In the car, access to to scrape and
clean the front of the block is, let's say, impeded.

Anyway, my 2c.

Brian
Valley Forge, PA



On Mon, Mar 29, 2010 at 5:50 PM, <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

> All right, I'm ready.B Done.B It's time to move on it.B Gadfrey.
>
> I'm using the original oil pan and a valve cover from E-Bay.B  The valve
> cover
> leaks, even with that terrific silicon gasket.B  The oil pan, I'm not sure,
> but there's oil everywhere under there.B  The front and rear seals are
> new.B
> The rear is the modified new type.
>
> What valve cover do people recommend?B  And if anyone has a good one
> hanging
> around, I'm interested.
>
> But before that, what exactly is it about oil pan distortion caused by
> erratic
> torquing of the bolts. ISTR discussion that this is noted as a reason for
> them
> not to seal properly, and has almost certainly happened on my 50 year old
> pan.B  Is that a myth?
>
> I fail to see the humor in dead pan.B  Or is it, dead-pan humor???
>
>
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>
> New Hamsphire
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr4zest at gmail.com

From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com  Tue Mar 30 06:06:25 2010
From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 08:06:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Transmission tool
In-Reply-To: <2BF09C18F01E40139B1D79F9140E407E@bielings>
References: <2BF09C18F01E40139B1D79F9140E407E@bielings>
Message-ID: <5BA9204257AD429CB839B2683C270F02@aitinc.local>

Pete,

A refrigeration valve wrench works nicely.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/68309.html

You need the one with the 5/16" square Part # 68310

Worked my way through college servicing HVAC and Refrigeration equipment and 
some of the tools are still handy.

Terry Geiger
www.GeigerGarage.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "bielings" <bielings at comcast.net>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 5:41 PM
Subject: [TR] Transmission tool


>I am rebuilding  the shifter lever controls in TR3 transmission.
> In order to remove the shifter forks I need to take out a retaining bolt.
> It's head is square about 8mm. Anyone know where to get
> a drive or socket that will fit it properly.
> Pete Bieling

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Mar 30 10:18:19 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 17:18:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Transmission tool
In-Reply-To: <5BA9204257AD429CB839B2683C270F02@aitinc.local>
Message-ID: <131652692.8064751269969499650.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Terry Geiger" <tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com> wrote:

> A refrigeration valve wrench works nicely.
> 
> http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/68309.html

Used them for brake adjusting, too.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Mar 30 10:23:39 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 10:23:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] oil seal update needed
Message-ID: <256277.60628.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I've been reading about rear crank main oil seal fixes on tr-3's for some time but the last posts were confusing to me (not difficult) lol.  I wasn't aware that the specs were wrong for the crank re-grind ect.......
What are the correct fixes/grind for the crank?  Which technical articles are the best to follow?

thanks!
gary n.

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Mar 30 11:09:25 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:09:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] [Mg-t] OT, YT forsale; Triumph Mayflower forsale
In-Reply-To: <8CC9E38FB9860E8-1DB0-1643D@webmail-d036.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC9E38FB9860E8-1DB0-1643D@webmail-d036.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4BB23E55.40201@bradakis.com>

In case you are looking for a Mayflower.

mjb.
------

taterry at aol.com wrote:
> Folks, I have a widow friend in Texas who wants to sell this YT that her
> husband bought her as a birthday present some years ago...always garaged and
> in fair condition from the pictures I have seen.  If any interest let me know
> and I'll put you in touch.  Same with the Mayflower that my ex wife has for
> sale but I know a lot more about the condition of this beauty!
> Terry in Oakland

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Mar 30 13:09:27 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 13:09:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
In-Reply-To: <D4B0F36A61174072902C4932E39767C6@DCS78M81>
References: <1195931612.11082091269898643949.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<D4B0F36A61174072902C4932E39767C6@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <3b0049461003301309u8d5ee48oc9e1f26a3537683f@mail.gmail.com>

On 3/29/10, THOMAS FANSHER <tfansher at comcast.net> wrote:
> We cut a magnet out of a used refrigerator magnet...

That's about what they look like (except there is a stack of them... 3?).

Geo

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Mar 30 14:14:08 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 21:14:08 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Amicale Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <4BB16CBB.3030701@uga.edu>
References: <79D53DB954B8417CBCB1A32E4848499B@joepentiumnew>
	<999190.19143.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<5A52B8A4C2BB46A2B75EB89F4E89B5E8@Spike> <4BB16CBB.3030701@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <399764.43794.qm@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

FWIW if someone wants to contact whoever is in charge of Amicale Spitfire
website, I'm happy to do a re-translation of the current French site into
English. I vaguely recall I did it for them about 10 years ago and am happy to
do it again - if l'Amicale is happy with having an English site variant. It'll
take a while to get going as I'm up to my eyeballs in sorting out my
daughter's wedding and a raft of other stuff to do with steam engines but
willing to help if I can.

Jonmac




________________________________
From:
Doug Mathews <mathews at uga.edu>
To: Mike Welch <spitfire at freebacon.net>
Cc:
Triumph Mail List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 30 March, 2010 4:15:07
Subject: Re: [TR] Amicale Spitfires

If you will Google the URL for the site
in of course Google, in the 
results,out beside the  hit for the site, it wil
sayy "translate this 
page"  and voila, you have an English version. I
highlighted the 
translate option.

Here's what it looked like on my list:
(text version)
Amicale Spitfire - Cyberspit
  - *[ Translate this page ]*
Amicale Spitfire Bienvenue sur Cyberspit ! Ce forum est riservi aux
discussions autour des Triumphs. Lisez-moi. Recherche : Partout, Texte,
Auteur, Sujet ...
www.amicalespitfire.fr/ - Cached - Similar


Doug

On
3/29/2010 10:26 PM, Mike Welch wrote:
> I hope they provide an English
translated site, I can't read 
> French...it's like they have a different word
for *everything*.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 30 14:50:21 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 14:50:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003301309u8d5ee48oc9e1f26a3537683f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1195931612.11082091269898643949.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<D4B0F36A61174072902C4932E39767C6@DCS78M81>
	<3b0049461003301309u8d5ee48oc9e1f26a3537683f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <124701cad052$ff50edf0$fdf2c9d0$@rr.com>

> That's about what they look like (except there is a stack of them...
> 3?).

Yup, 3 of them.

Both Moss & TRF have the magnet set listed (866-220 & 513205 respectively),
but refrigerator magnets (I assume Tom meant the magnet that goes inside the
seal to hold the door closed) would be cheaper.

Just for clarity, I believe the factory didn't add the magnets until when
the screen changed from being held with a bolt and spacer to being held by
the drain plug.  The Moss catalog seems to imply that didn't happen until
the TR4A IRS version, but the TR4 I bought for its OD had the magnets (and
later screen, etc.) and did not have the IRS version of the OD.

I added the magnets to TS39781LO (before its original OD got replaced by the
TR4 one), but as I recall there was not enough room for all 3 of them.  I
don't recall now if I used two or only one.

-- Randall 

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Mar 30 16:08:02 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 19:08:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] wasTR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change now magnets
References: <1195931612.11082091269898643949.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><D4B0F36A61174072902C4932E39767C6@DCS78M81><3b0049461003301309u8d5ee48oc9e1f26a3537683f@mail.gmail.com>
	<124701cad052$ff50edf0$fdf2c9d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <86F69F48F99C4B68A5DD2B8F6942A7A6@DCS78M81>

Actually, Jere Dotten cut a circle out of the large number magnetic 
registration number from the VTR at Valley Forge.  I was talking about using 
an advertising magnet from various businesses that hang on the refrigerator.
Can't get much cheaper than that.
We had to pull the drain after a week or so and the magnet had picked up 
some metal - residual from before the rebuild..so all is well.


> Both Moss & TRF have the magnet set listed (866-220 & 513205 
> respectively),
> but refrigerator magnets (I assume Tom meant the magnet that goes inside 
> the
> seal to hold the door closed) would be cheaper.
>
> Just for clarity, I believe the factory didn't add the magnets until when
> the screen changed from being held with a bolt and spacer to being held by
> the drain plug.  The Moss catalog seems to imply that didn't happen until
> the TR4A IRS version, but the TR4 I bought for its OD had the magnets (and
> later screen, etc.) and did not have the IRS version of the OD.
>
> I added the magnets to TS39781LO (before its original OD got replaced by 
> the
> TR4 one), but as I recall there was not enough room for all 3 of them.  I
> don't recall now if I used two or only one.
>
> -- Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Mar 30 23:09:15 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 23:09:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] American Pickers
Message-ID: <5A80C0B4C0DA4926BB0353F152514E63@joepentiumnew>

Just watching an episode of American Pickers and the guys were in Alabama
where they found a Green GT6 sitting in someone's junk yard rusting.

Joe

From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Mar 30 23:24:58 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 01:24:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil seal update needed
In-Reply-To: <256277.60628.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <256277.60628.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100331072459.393E618767B@autox.team.net>

Here's an excerpt from Uncle Jack's TR-3/4 engine building tips:
If you are going to install the aftermarket rear
seal, have the seal surface of the crank turned
to 2.525  whatever the current instructions may
say. These seals are leaky and they need all the
help they can get. The lip tension is too low.
Therefore, measure the length of the spring and
alter it to be exactly 8  long.

Also:
Put a very small amount of RTV along one edge of
the seal groove in the aluminum housing. Also put
a very light coat of liquid gasket sealer on the
surfaces against which the seal housing will
go.  (This is for the aftermarket rear seal. TFM)

5.     Install the seal on the crank. Arrange the
seal so the split will be on the upside / top
after the engine is right side up.  (This is for
the aftermarket rear seal. TFM)

The full "tips" page is here:
http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm

My custom billet crank came with the crank
diameter turned slightly too small (ARRGGHHH) so
I have been trimming a little bit off of one edge
of the seal with a very sharp knife and
shortening the spring a bit under 8".  I got that
to work last year - we'll see how that works out with this year's rebuild...

Tony Drews

At 12:23 PM 3/30/2010, Gary Nafziger wrote:
>I've been reading about rear crank main oil seal
>fixes on tr-3's for some time but the last posts
>were confusing to me (not difficult) lol.  I
>wasn't aware that the specs were wrong for the crank re-grind ect.......
>What are the correct fixes/grind for the
>crank?  Which technical articles are the best to follow?
>
>thanks!
>gary n.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Wed Mar 31 00:05:05 2010
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 20:05:05 +1300
Subject: [TR] It's alive!!!
Message-ID: <D36362223ED0492CBA102217C7EC5AF6@DRESANPC>

Hi people....

    Yesterday was a definite Red Letter Day for me. I took the TR4A down to
our local Warrant of Fitness issuing person, and it passed!! WOF's are a
complusory 6-monthly safety inspection. No WOF, no Registration! Anyway, it
passed, so next stop , get it registered and get going. A very good fellow
ex-Air Force mate now runs a small service centre, and has a soft spot for old
cars, so he had re-routed a brake pipe that was unfortunately running across
the battery, and a previous WOF check had detected a rear brake hose in
slightly the wrong place, so that was re-routed better.
    Fortunately, the weather was quite beautiful for this time of the year,
and demanded top down motoring. GREAT!! Anyway today was a mini shake down
cruise over to our nearest city, a drive of around 19km and it performed as a
Triumph should....Perfectly! This bodes well for a larger run on Easter Sunday
when my wife and I are going for a slightly longer trip to Levin, a town some
45-50 minutes away. Will keep you posted!
        Regards......Trev......Feilding, New Zealand .

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Mar 31 10:02:17 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 11:02:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] It's alive!!!
In-Reply-To: <D36362223ED0492CBA102217C7EC5AF6@DRESANPC>
References: <D36362223ED0492CBA102217C7EC5AF6@DRESANPC>
Message-ID: <F4A8C9E9D0FD4A9FAD3E304012B19A80@bboffice>

Trev,

Congratulations on the WOF passage.  The TR3 goes in this week for the same
tribunal judgment and subsequent test drives in ever increasing concentric
circles away from the garage until full confidence is restored for another
season!


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of T S Hardy
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 1:05 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] It's alive!!!

Hi people....

    Yesterday was a definite Red Letter Day for me. I took the TR4A down to
our local Warrant of Fitness issuing person, and it passed!! WOF's are a
complusory 6-monthly safety inspection. No WOF, no Registration! Anyway, it
passed, so next stop , get it registered and get going. A very good fellow
ex-Air Force mate now runs a small service centre, and has a soft spot for
old cars, so he had re-routed a brake pipe that was unfortunately running
across the battery, and a previous WOF check had detected a rear brake hose
in slightly the wrong place, so that was re-routed better.
    Fortunately, the weather was quite beautiful for this time of the year,
and demanded top down motoring. GREAT!! Anyway today was a mini shake down
cruise over to our nearest city, a drive of around 19km and it performed as
a Triumph should....Perfectly! This bodes well for a larger run on Easter
Sunday when my wife and I are going for a slightly longer trip to Levin, a
town some 45-50 minutes away. Will keep you posted!
        Regards......Trev......Feilding, New Zealand .

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Mar 31 10:12:42 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 11:12:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] oil seal update needed
In-Reply-To: <20100331072459.393E618767B@autox.team.net>
References: <256277.60628.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<20100331072459.393E618767B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2C8087A0274E4004BEA1DCB7E20386C7@bboffice>

Rebuilt my engine last year adding the new oil seal conversion kit from
Moss.  Using the instructions that came from the kit the crank was properly
turned to 2.504" (specs say 2.500-2.505).  Unfortunately, the re-builder
neglected to drill the additional relief holes and it leaked like a sieve.
Pulled the motor again this winter and we drilled the correct holes,
re-confirmed the crank diameter, position of the seal and confirmed the
spring to be exactly 8" long.

Made the first drive last week of about 20 miles and noticed two small drops
on the ground under the rear of the block, I have not had time to crawl all
over the engine to assure there are no other leaking points from the
re-build but if this is the total of the leak I will learn to live with it,
as do most LBC owners, and not pull the engine again this winter.  I guess I
was just hoping that after the effort and expense of this new seal project
that at least one avenue of oil loss was closed.

To all, have a great and enjoyable spring-summer-fall of LBC driving as I
assuredly plan to myself.  AND, most importantly of all things, be careful
out there!


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 12:25 AM
To: Gary Nafziger; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] oil seal update needed

Here's an excerpt from Uncle Jack's TR-3/4 engine building tips:
If you are going to install the aftermarket rear seal, have the seal surface
of the crank turned to 2.525  whatever the current instructions may say.
These seals are leaky and they need all the help they can get. The lip
tension is too low.
Therefore, measure the length of the spring and alter it to be exactly 8
long.

Also:
Put a very small amount of RTV along one edge of the seal groove in the
aluminum housing. Also put a very light coat of liquid gasket sealer on the
surfaces against which the seal housing will go.  (This is for the
aftermarket rear seal. TFM)

5.     Install the seal on the crank. Arrange the
seal so the split will be on the upside / top after the engine is right side
up.  (This is for the aftermarket rear seal. TFM)

The full "tips" page is here:
http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm

My custom billet crank came with the crank diameter turned slightly too
small (ARRGGHHH) so I have been trimming a little bit off of one edge of the
seal with a very sharp knife and shortening the spring a bit under 8".  I
got that to work last year - we'll see how that works out with this year's
rebuild...

Tony Drews

At 12:23 PM 3/30/2010, Gary Nafziger wrote:
>I've been reading about rear crank main oil seal fixes on tr-3's for
>some time but the last posts were confusing to me (not difficult) lol.
>I wasn't aware that the specs were wrong for the crank re-grind
>ect.......
>What are the correct fixes/grind for the crank?  Which technical
>articles are the best to follow?
>
>thanks!
>gary n.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
>$11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Mar 31 10:17:21 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 17:17:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
In-Reply-To: <124701cad052$ff50edf0$fdf2c9d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <982102005.8524961270055841670.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> but refrigerator magnets (I assume Tom meant the magnet that goes
> inside the
> seal to hold the door closed) would be cheaper.

I suspect not.  The term "refrigerator magnet" generally refers to advertising or decoration magnets manufactured to be displayed on a refrigerator.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Wed Mar 31 11:05:57 2010
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 11:05:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumph World Availability (USA)
Message-ID: <798525.18402.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Triumphant Ones,
 
I haven't been able to get Triumph World at my
favourite
location (Borders) for a while now.
Whenever I check the local Barnes & Noble,
I
don't see it there either.
 
Little British Car Co. used to carry it as well
as an another store. They have told me that they
either had problems dealing
with the publisher
or they didn't sell enough to carry it.
 
Does anyone have
any other source for TW? Or does
everyone have a subscription? Or have you
given up
on reading it since the editorial staff changed a
couple of years
ago?
 
Thanks for any suggestions. If there are enough
people interested, I
can contact Borders and B&N
about getting it on their shelves again.
 
Doug
--
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 31 11:39:31 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 11:39:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A A-Type Overdrive Oil Change
In-Reply-To: <982102005.8524961270055841670.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <124701cad052$ff50edf0$fdf2c9d0$@rr.com>
	<982102005.8524961270055841670.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <13ec01cad101$814f97d0$83eec770$@rr.com>

> The term "refrigerator magnet" generally refers to
> advertising or decoration magnets manufactured to be displayed on a
> refrigerator.

Ok, my mistake.  The ones stuck to my refrigerator would not be suitable, but
I guess some of them are.

-- Randall

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Wed Mar 31 14:57:27 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 14:57:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumph World Availability (USA)
In-Reply-To: <798525.18402.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <798525.18402.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <365218.10769.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Hi Doug,
I did subscribe to the magazine for a time....Please see the email
address below for subscription inquiries.  Even if you don't care to
subscribe, they may be able to let you know its retail availability in the US.
tw.mag at kelsey.co.uk

I hope this helps.
Pat
TR4A '67
________________________________
From: Doug Mitchell <dmitchel at sbcglobal.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, March 31,
2010 11:05:57 AM
Subject: [TR] Triumph World Availability (USA)

Triumphant
Ones,

I haven't been able to get Triumph World at my
favourite
location
(Borders) for a while now.
Whenever I check the local Barnes & Noble,
I
don't
see it there either.

Little British Car Co. used to carry it as well
as an
another store. They have told me that they
either had problems dealing
with
the publisher
or they didn't sell enough to carry it.

Does anyone have
any
other source for TW? Or does
everyone have a subscription? Or have you
given
up
on reading it since the editorial staff changed a
couple of years
ago?
Thanks for any suggestions. If there are enough
people interested, I
can
contact Borders and B&N
about getting it on their shelves again.

Doug
--
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Wed Mar 31 15:20:55 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 15:20:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumph World Availability (USA)
In-Reply-To: <798525.18402.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <798525.18402.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <831311.21777.qm@web59715.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

"Does anyone have
any other source for TW? Or does
everyone have a
subscription?"

Hi Doug,
I did subscribe to the magazine for a time....Please
see the email address below for subscription inquiries.  Even if you don't
care to subscribe, they may be able to let you know its retail availability in
the US.

tw.mag at kelsey.co.uk

I hope this helps.
Pat
TR4A '67

From johnhenard at hotmail.com  Wed Mar 31 19:28:12 2010
From: johnhenard at hotmail.com (John Henard)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 22:28:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph World Availability (USA)
In-Reply-To: <798525.18402.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <798525.18402.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU113-W8CC81ED2E59769CCCD2A6D81D0@phx.gbl>

Doug,

I subscribed for several years through EWA Cars (or something like that) out
of NJ. They would have frequent problems with the publisher and issues would
go missing. They wouldn't communicate this until you brought it up and then
would give you credit. This coupled with the mag change in focus encouraged me
to drop it a few years ago.

--John Henard

'71 Spit

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3

From bob at texmog.com  Wed Mar 31 20:30:49 2010
From: bob at texmog.com (bob at texmog.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 22:30:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil seal update needed
In-Reply-To: <256277.60628.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <88D74C44869F4A77A4C66EA8F7078AD3@CARROOM>

Gary;
     I did the Racetoration seal conversion when it first came out and it
leaks worst than the scroll ever did. Last year I rebuilt another engine and
used the modified scroll that Greg Solow sells and the engine does not leak
a drop. His modification basically is to remachine the scroll to reduce the
clearance from .012 across the dia to .006. It is cheaper than the
conversions and does not require any modification to the crank or block.

  After first rebuilding the engine I did have a problem with oil leaking
and I though it was the new scroll seal but using some ultra violet oil dye
I traced the problem to the oil pan. I had the engine line bored but did not
ask them to surface the bottom of the block with the caps in place. This
resulted in a .010 gap at the rear main cap and I found that the gaskets
that come in the Payne kit could not seal that big a gap. I made my own
gasket using NAPA's rubberized cork gasket material and it sealed the pan up
nicely. So nicely that I went back and used it on the timing chain cover and
valve cover.
   Must say it is nice to be able to park the car anywhere I want in the
driveway or garage and not worry about stains.

Bob Nogueira
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
> Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 12:24 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] oil seal update needed
>
>
> I've been reading about rear crank main oil seal fixes on
> tr-3's for some time but the last posts were confusing to me
> (not difficult) lol.  I wasn't aware that the specs were
> wrong for the crank re-grind ect....... What are the correct
> fixes/grind for the crank?  Which technical articles are the
> best to follow?
>
> thanks!
> gary n.