From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun  1 00:05:38 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 23:05:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] New wheel  cylinder leaking
In-Reply-To: <20100531230528.240647uc5f5j2dq8@webmail.iquest.net>
References: <20100531230528.240647uc5f5j2dq8@webmail.iquest.net>
Message-ID: <012101cb0150$758b0e50$0301a8c0@randall>

> one leaks terribly around the brake line
> obviously did not before the replacement

Any chance someone has re-plumbed your rear axle with American style nuts on
the line?  

They will sometimes seal, but the proper British nuts have an extended tip
with no threads, because the Girling cylinders are intentionally not
threaded all the way to the bottom of the hole.  Possibly your old cylinders
were threaded extra deep and so worked.

Not the best picture, but if you scroll to the bottom of
http://fedhillusa.net/aboutus.aspx
you can see the proper nut at the lower RH corner and the wrong nut on the
LH side.

Randall

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Tue Jun  1 06:13:19 2010
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (goh62agan at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 07:13:19 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] New wheel  cylinder leaking
Message-ID: <1480898708.4426693.1275394399154.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net>


From tbe749 at aol.com  Tue Jun  1 06:15:04 2010
From: tbe749 at aol.com (tbe749 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 08:15:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR10
In-Reply-To: <168601.870.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <168601.870.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CCCF9B33DCA8B5-1130-124CB@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>

Hi Bill



We have a 10 Estate that is in assembly stage of a complete restoration. Most
mechanical (engine) parts are available. Some TR3 electrical and some other
miscellaneous bits are interchangeable. Trim and bright work is extremely
difficult to find. We are still looking for certain trim bits.

Tom Beaver
Indy


-----Original Message-----
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May 28, 2010 8:20 pm
Subject: [TR] TR10


     So, today I was passing thru Bakersfield and I look over at a farm
quipment storage yard that has a line of parked cars and there is a complete
R10 wagon that has been there for a looooooong time. The engine looks like it
as rebuilt recently before parking, judging by the paint. The thing cracks me
p just to look at it. It looks like a marriage ruiner. I got the owners name
nd number but haven't called. Anyone else on the list have a TR10? Are parts
vailable anywhere?
     Bill in Tehachapi
_______________________________________________
riumphs at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $11.47
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Jun  1 08:41:56 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 09:41:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] New wheel  cylinder leaking
References: <20100531230528.240647uc5f5j2dq8@webmail.iquest.net>
	<012101cb0150$758b0e50$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <068831D4820847B8A253CDE13EC16120@trigeni.com>

Being from the old country myself, I am glad to report that I have proper 
British nuts with no leaks...

Mike

>
> They will sometimes seal, but the proper British nuts have an extended tip
> with no threads, because the Girling cylinders are intentionally not
> threaded all the way to the bottom of the hole.  Possibly your old 
> cylinders
> were threaded extra deep and so worked.

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Tue Jun  1 13:06:43 2010
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 14:06:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Mystery Coolant
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1275415202.16500.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1275415202.16500.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C78842AE447C@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>

I think if coolant had been exiting via the overflow pipe to the road, you'd
have driven past it before you could smell it.

I think when under pressure, a fine spray of atomized coolant is coming from a
pin-hole perforation in the radiator (passenger side top, perhaps, or maybe
the side of the top hose) and that caused the wet patch on the underside of
the bonnet.

Let us know how you get on...

Brian
Valley Forge, PA

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Jun  1 15:53:26 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 21:53:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Undercoating
In-Reply-To: <391E16F52BD74061B6D9E6728909A76F@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <1847474374.358091275429206903.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Along these same lines - has anyone used truck bed liner material as an 
>interior undercoating to cut down on the noise/vibration/heat?

ISTR this discussion on the list a few years ago.  One comment was made that stuck with me:  If anyone has some reason to need to remove the bedliner, it was chronic heck to get off.

FWIW.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire...where I fixed the oil leaks, and now and dropping coolant.  Guess the term "wetliners" isn't just for the engine, eh????

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Tue Jun  1 20:37:11 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 19:37:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Emblem on rear of TR4A
Message-ID: <000301cb01fc$815ccc80$84166580$@rr.com>

Here's a link. What is the writing on top of the "TR4A". Is this a dealer
logo? I can't decipher it, and haven't seen anything like this on a car.

 

 http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_285458-Triumph-TR4A-1965.html

 

Johnnie

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Tue Jun  1 20:47:55 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 21:47:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fred Thomas
Message-ID: <SNT123-W16F157177032872E3A583CE1D00@phx.gbl>

Has anyone heard from Fred lately?

He used to be on here all the time and I miss his powder coating suggestions.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Jun  1 21:27:02 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 22:27:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Emblem on rear of TR4A
References: <000301cb01fc$815ccc80$84166580$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AE7F4524C59544E6A111D1F6D12B7923@trigeni.com>

It could be "Overdrive".

Mike



> Here's a link. What is the writing on top of the "TR4A". Is this a dealer
> logo? I can't decipher it, and haven't seen anything like this on a car.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_285458-Triumph-TR4A-1965.html

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue Jun  1 21:32:56 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 23:32:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fred Thomas
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W16F157177032872E3A583CE1D00@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT123-W16F157177032872E3A583CE1D00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9460C4@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Probably powder coated his computer screen and now can't see the messages...
:^)

Mark


________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rich White [rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com]
Sent: June 1, 2010 10:47 PM
To: TR owners List
Subject: [TR] Fred Thomas

Has anyone heard from Fred lately?

He used to be on here all the time and I miss his powder coating suggestions.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From guy at genfiniti.com  Wed Jun  2 07:19:07 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 08:19:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tightening tie-rod end
Message-ID: <62560216-B82C-4CAF-BEFC-BFB016CCEF1E@genfiniti.com>

All,

I am attempting to tighten the tie-rod ends to the steering arm on the
suspension.
After a while, the nut gets just tight enough to start turning the ball inside
the ball joint, preventing me from getting any real torque.

What the trick for stopping the ball from spinning?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Wed Jun  2 08:50:37 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 10:50:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tightening tie-rod end
In-Reply-To: <62560216-B82C-4CAF-BEFC-BFB016CCEF1E@genfiniti.com>
References: <62560216-B82C-4CAF-BEFC-BFB016CCEF1E@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W41581A5E61011274000A84A5D00@phx.gbl>

> I am attempting to tighten the tie-rod ends to the steering arm on the
> suspension.
> After a while, the nut gets just tight enough to start turning the ball
inside
> the ball joint, preventing me from getting any real torque.
>
> What the trick for stopping the ball from spinning?


First use a plain nut to tighten the taper into the arm. Then remove the plain
nut and install the fibre lock nut.



John H.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jun  2 09:04:02 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 08:04:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tightening tie-rod end
In-Reply-To: <62560216-B82C-4CAF-BEFC-BFB016CCEF1E@genfiniti.com>
References: <62560216-B82C-4CAF-BEFC-BFB016CCEF1E@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <03e101cb0264$d6e1f9b0$0301a8c0@randall>

> What the trick for stopping the ball from spinning?

One trick is to use a plain nut instead of a Nyloc to initially seat the
taper.  Torque it down, then remove it and install the Nyloc.

Or, what I usually do is stick a big pry bar between the tie rod end and
whatever is convenient, to force the taper together long enough to tighten
the nut.

Randall

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Wed Jun  2 16:02:29 2010
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 18:02:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Emblem on rear of TR4A
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1275501601.18002.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1275501601.18002.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0B1067B4-7910-480D-8FF2-683F591F5690@execulink.com>

It looks like the "Overdrive" script that was used on some Spitfires (and
probably others). I do not recall seeing it on TR4s or 4As. My TR4 with
overdrive certainly did not have it.

Keith Stewart

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Jun  2 16:16:21 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 22:16:21 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR10
In-Reply-To: <8CCCF9B33DCA8B5-1130-124CB@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>
References: <168601.870.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<8CCCF9B33DCA8B5-1130-124CB@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <761874.95915.qm@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

There's plenty in the UK. Try the Standard Motor Club
www.standardmotorclub.org.uk/

Jonmac




________________________________
From: "tbe749 at aol.com" <tbe749 at aol.com>
To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 1 June, 2010 13:15:04
Subject: Re: [TR]
TR10

Hi Bill



We have a 10 Estate that is in assembly stage of a complete
restoration. Most
mechanical (engine) parts are available. Some TR3 electrical
and some other
miscellaneous bits are interchangeable. Trim and bright work is
extremely
difficult to find. We are still looking for certain trim bits.

Tom
Beaver
Indy


-----Original Message-----
From: William Brewer
<wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May
28, 2010 8:20 pm
Subject: [TR] TR10


    So, today I was passing thru
Bakersfield and I look over at a farm
quipment storage yard that has a line of
parked cars and there is a complete
R10 wagon that has been there for a
looooooong time. The engine looks like it
as rebuilt recently before parking,
judging by the paint. The thing cracks me
p just to look at it. It looks like
a marriage ruiner. I got the owners name
nd number but haven't called. Anyone
else on the list have a TR10? Are parts
vailable anywhere?
    Bill in
Tehachapi
_______________________________________________
riumphs at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual
donation  $11.47
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums:
http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tbe749 at aol.com
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From tr250driver at gmail.com  Wed Jun  2 18:06:41 2010
From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 20:06:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Is aol blocked again?
Message-ID: <AANLkTilfVg8VssJT5Sa47eu4cld30F_7c2GqNOfWaJzy@mail.gmail.com>

Just curious.  I sent a post last week.  Never saw it appear as usual.
Darrell

From carlsereda at aol.com  Wed Jun  2 18:21:40 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2010 17:21:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A 'dealer badge'? No.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1275501601.18002.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D845629E.7D2A.4CE6.837D.213BA446FE3B@aol.com>

Hey Johnnie,

It reads 'Overdrive' - you can still buy them new- for instance, 
below's the link to the Rimmer's 'illustrated' one.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005902

and a photographed one on eBay too:

http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/TRIUMPH-OVERDRIVE-SCRIPT-CAR-BADGE-CHROME-C005_W0QQitemZ350343534727QQcmdZViewItemQQssPageNameZRSS:B:SILF:SG:105#ht_1698wt_910

Thanks for sharing that photo link - I've only seen that exact script 
chrome 'Overdrive' badge on a 'show' TR4 a few years back - I believe 
the tag is for Spitfires but I like the idea for a TR4. The fact that 
it shows up on a 1966 TR4A on the show 'Avengers' televised in the 
late 60's makes it legit right?
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

What is the writing on top of the "TR4A". Is this a dealer
logo? I can't decipher it, and haven't seen anything like this on a 
car.

http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_285458-Triumph-TR4A-1965.html

Johnnie

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Jun  2 18:27:08 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 17:27:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Emblem on rear of TR4A
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilAqABPixcQy4H5I8hy2YcWvj97gcqbiiTv0Gf5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.6.1275501601.18002.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<0B1067B4-7910-480D-8FF2-683F591F5690@execulink.com>
	<AANLkTilAqABPixcQy4H5I8hy2YcWvj97gcqbiiTv0Gf5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTiklUQOHySDNkWiCgRTECHL4TTaAiplYj5UXPFJO@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/2/10, Keith Stewart <keithstewart at execulink.com> wrote:
> My TR4 with overdrive certainly did not have it.

Me neither.  Didn't have the rare 'Emma Peel' option either.  Think
that was mainly a Lotus feature.

Geo

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Wed Jun  2 20:44:22 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 19:44:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Is aol blocked again?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilfVg8VssJT5Sa47eu4cld30F_7c2GqNOfWaJzy@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTilfVg8VssJT5Sa47eu4cld30F_7c2GqNOfWaJzy@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <520174.84889.qm@web59715.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Darrell,
I got this post.
Pat


________________________________
From: darrell
floyd <tr250driver at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, June 2,
2010 5:06:41 PM
Subject: [TR] Is aol blocked again?

Just curious.  I sent a
post last week.  Never saw it appear as usual.
Darrell
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Thu Jun  3 05:43:26 2010
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 12:43:26 +0100
Subject: [TR] Emblem on rear of TR4A
In-Reply-To: <000301cb01fc$815ccc80$84166580$@rr.com>
References: <000301cb01fc$815ccc80$84166580$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <D6545FE7EF1A492D9366DAD90129E334@AdrianPC>

The sign says Overdrive.  This logo was fitted to the Standard Vanguard 
saloon and Triumph 2000 saloons of the day, if my memory serves me 
correctly. Appearing on a TR4A it must have been an addition from the 
dealership.

Adrian TR4A CT64306 O
Wales, UK.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
To: "'triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 3:37 AM
Subject: [TR] Emblem on rear of TR4A


> Here's a link. What is the writing on top of the "TR4A". Is this a dealer
> logo? I can't decipher it, and haven't seen anything like this on a car.
>
>
>
> http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_285458-Triumph-TR4A-1965.html
>
>
>
> Johnnie
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.829 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2914 - Release Date: 06/02/10 
19:25:00

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Jun  3 08:28:51 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 14:28:51 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Emblem on rear of TR4A
In-Reply-To: <D6545FE7EF1A492D9366DAD90129E334@AdrianPC>
References: <000301cb01fc$815ccc80$84166580$@rr.com>
	<D6545FE7EF1A492D9366DAD90129E334@AdrianPC>
Message-ID: <240309.57237.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Absolutely 'spot on' Adrian. Only yesterday I sorted a 35mm transparency (3/4
rear view for scanning) of my Dad's newly acquired Vanguard Vignale of 1959
vintage - and the badge was in place. As I recall, an excellent water-trap
that was highly resistant to the depredations of a chamois leather - and it
'dribbled' endlessly.

Jonmac




________________________________
From:
Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net>
To: John & Pat Donnelly
<pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>; triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, 3 June,
2010 12:43:26
Subject: Re: [TR] Emblem on rear of TR4A

The sign says
Overdrive.  This logo was fitted to the Standard Vanguard 
saloon and Triumph
2000 saloons of the day, if my memory serves me 
correctly. Appearing on a
TR4A it must have been an addition from the 
dealership.

Adrian TR4A CT64306
O
Wales, UK.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John & Pat Donnelly"
<pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
To: "'triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 02, 2010 3:37 AM
Subject: [TR] Emblem on rear of TR4A


>
Here's a link. What is the writing on top of the "TR4A". Is this a dealer
>
logo? I can't decipher it, and haven't seen anything like this on a car.
>
>
>
> http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_285458-Triumph-TR4A-1965.html
>
>
>
> Johnnie
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe: 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.829 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2914 - Release Date: 06/02/10
19:25:00

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
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Forums:
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From bill_beecher at flash.net  Fri Jun  4 10:04:41 2010
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 10:04:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] Correct Alloy Oil Sump?
Message-ID: <4013738658F44ED092C86C0E0E6BF46A@bboffice>

My car came with the aluminum/alloy oil sump and just today I was noticing
that the part number in the casting is 501318 or 561318, but when I looked
in the parts manual it calls for p/s 301318.  Is this still the correct sump
for my car?  The sump was originally on a post 60,000 engine, but I have
since transferred it over to the original engine for this 1958 car.
(TS-30766)
 
TIA
 
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jun  4 11:15:02 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 10:15:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Correct Alloy Oil Sump?
In-Reply-To: <4013738658F44ED092C86C0E0E6BF46A@bboffice>
References: <4013738658F44ED092C86C0E0E6BF46A@bboffice>
Message-ID: <A715AD1EA9C94B5C80784A79D12164E9@joepentiumnew>

Bill,
Since the numbers you are citing are so close, I would suspect that what you
have is 301318 which would make it correct according to your data.  I am
guessing that the numbers are not very clear on the part and you are
misreading the first character.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bill_beecher at flash.net
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 9:05 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Correct Alloy Oil Sump?

My car came with the aluminum/alloy oil sump and just today I was noticing
that the part number in the casting is 501318 or 561318, but when I looked
in the parts manual it calls for p/s 301318.  Is this still the correct sump
for my car?  The sump was originally on a post 60,000 engine, but I have
since transferred it over to the original engine for this 1958 car.
(TS-30766)
 
TIA
 
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From davidt at opentext.com  Fri Jun  4 15:46:42 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 17:46:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Any members near Kitchener/Waterloo, Ontario?
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0164FE26@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Evening,



Looking for some help to move 2 triumphs J and wondering if there is any
local people that may be will to pitch in a hand?  If so please contact
me off list if need.



Many thinks in advance

David Templeton



'59 TR3a

'74 Spitfire

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sat Jun  5 07:30:14 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 06:30:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Hi RPM's
Message-ID: <194828.31927.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
 
I've got a problem/question for the list to help me out on:
 
History: I start up the car & everything is great on the instrument readings-
Idle= 850-900 RPM. After the engine runs for about 1/2 hr. doing 40+ MPH- tach
is reading 2,000->3,000 (depending on my driving speeds). When I then come to
a stop light, sign, etc. the RPM's stick at 2,000. I then 'blimp' the gas
peddle (a quick accretion & then drop the pressure on the gas peddle) the
RPM's then drop down to idle speed =850->900. 

Question: What's causing this to happen?
 
I think it's the carb. linkage sticking. So I've cleaned the linkage with a
tooth brush, then blew compressed air on to the linkage on the inside of the
engine bay. Then proceeded to place a drop of graphite oil (thinking at this
is a "dry lubricant") onto all pivot points of the carb & gas peddle linkage,
hoping to prevent sticking. I then let the engine cool (next day), to TR (test
ride) the TR4A again to have the SAME thing happen all over again.
 
-Cosmo Kramer

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat Jun  5 09:48:14 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 11:48:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Hi_RPM=27s?=
Message-ID: <20100605154704.08B4C187644@autox.team.net>

May be wear or may be carbs.  My tr4 does the same thing from time to time.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Cosmo Kramer" <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, Jun 5, 2010 09:30
Subject: [TR] Hi RPM's
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Hi List!
 
I've got a problem/question for the list to help me out on:
 
History: I start up the car & everything is great on the instrument readings-
Idle= 850-900 RPM. After the engine runs for about 1/2 hr. doing 40+ MPH- tach
is reading 2,000->3,000 (depending on my driving speeds). When I then come to
a stop light, sign, etc. the RPM's stick at 2,000. I then 'blimp' the gas
peddle (a quick accretion & then drop the pressure on the gas peddle) the
RPM's then drop down to idle speed =850->900. 

Question: What's causing this to happen?
 
I think it's the carb. linkage sticking. So I've cleaned the linkage with a
tooth brush, then blew compressed air on to the linkage on the inside of the
engine bay. Then proceeded to place a drop of graphite oil (thinking at this
is a "dry lubricant") onto all pivot points of the carb & gas peddle linkage,
hoping to prevent sticking. I then let the engine cool (next day), to TR (test
ride) the TR4A again to have the SAME thing happen all over again.
 
-Cosmo Kramer

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Jun  5 11:16:57 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 13:16:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Hi RPM's
Message-ID: <15fac.6c35ed59.393be089@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/5/2010 10:12:21 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tr4a2712 at yahoo.com writes:

Question: What's causing this to  happen?





Sounds like you have a piston sticking up in one or both of the carbs,  
possibly dirty. Check by taking the piston up and see if it falls down and  
clicks when it hits bottom.  You may need to run some carb cleaner  thru.  
Another way to tell is to pull the dash pot plug and put it back on,  if the 
idle goes down your piston was stuck.
Darrell

From tr250driver at gmail.com  Sat Jun  5 11:23:38 2010
From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 13:23:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] TEN COMMANDMENTS FOR TRIUMPH OWNERS
Message-ID: <AANLkTilGnbnR_Cv5fe4aCvqB6iZ7or9e_IcM2P7ZVPcz@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Listers,
I thought I would share this from the NCTA TRCoaster June Newsletter.
My
good buddy Ken has found a lot of stuff from his 76 TR6 including issue
#1 of  the 6-PACK newsletter.
Enjoy,
Darrell




TEN COMMANDMENTS FOR TRIUMPH
OWNERS
Due to a sudden overheating  problem with the TR6, I was looking thru my
parts boxes and found a copy  of the VTR and Triumph Sports Owners
Association newsletter for Mar/April  1983. It was mailed to the
previous owner of my TR and the postage was  11 cents. That's note
worthy in its self. As I was looking thru the  newsletter I found the
following 10
Commandments:
1. Thou shalt not store  thy Triumph out-of-doors, except for thy wife's
modern iron.
2. Thou shalt  not covet thy neighbor's Triumph, nor his garage, nor his
battery  charger.
3. Thou shalt not love thy Triumph more than thy wife and  children, as
much, but not more.
4. Thou shalt not read thy English Channel  on company time, lest thy
employer make it impossible to continue thy car  payments.
5. Thou shalt not despise thy neighbor's 240Z, nor his Mazda,  nor even
his 1948 MGTC.
6. Thou shalt not deceive thy wife into  thinking that thee is taking
her for a romantic Sunday drive when, indeed,  thou art going out to
look at another Triumph.
7. Thou shalt not allow thy  daughters nor thy sons to get married
during the hold days of a  VTR Convention.
8. Thou shalt not tell thy spouse the entire cost  of thy latest
restoration, at least not all at the same time.
9. Thou  shalt not promise thy wife a new addition to the house and then
use it to  store Triumphs in the attic.
10. Thou shalt not buy thy wife a floor jack  for Christmas, unless it
is for her Triumph.

Another piece of Triumph Significa that I found in the newsletter was
the following: Did you know that a TR-2 front apron was used as a model
for  the face of E.T.?
Ken Kreiner
_______________________________________________

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jun  5 11:23:39 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 11:23:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hi RPM's
In-Reply-To: <194828.31927.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <194828.31927.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A95EB6BD-BA61-4719-BB87-14B1A501C7FB@flash.net>

I had the same with my TR3, it was as simple as the throttle stops  
were not properly sync'd.  One was down just a little too far and was  
holdind the other carb open.

Solution is the disengage the carbs so they are independent and re- 
sync them and re-reconnect.

Or, it could be excessive wear in the carb bodies... a more involved  
issue that usually means sending them off for a rebuild.

Mobile Bill

On Jun 5, 2010, at 7:30 AM, Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi List!
>
> I've got a problem/question for the list to help me out on:
>
> History: I start up the car & everything is great on the instrument  
> readings-
> Idle= 850-900 RPM. After the engine runs for about 1/2 hr. doing 40+  
> MPH- tach
> is reading 2,000->3,000 (depending on my driving speeds). When I  
> then come to
> a stop light, sign, etc. the RPM's stick at 2,000. I then 'blimp'  
> the gas
> peddle (a quick accretion & then drop the pressure on the gas  
> peddle) the
> RPM's then drop down to idle speed =850->900.
>
> Question: What's causing this to happen?
>
> I think it's the carb. linkage sticking. So I've cleaned the linkage  
> with a
> tooth brush, then blew compressed air on to the linkage on the  
> inside of the
> engine bay. Then proceeded to place a drop of graphite oil (thinking  
> at this
> is a "dry lubricant") onto all pivot points of the carb & gas peddle  
> linkage,
> hoping to prevent sticking. I then let the engine cool (next day),  
> to TR (test
> ride) the TR4A again to have the SAME thing happen all over again.
>
> -Cosmo Kramer
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Jun  5 12:07:40 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 11:07:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hi RPM's
In-Reply-To: <15fac.6c35ed59.393be089@aol.com>
References: <15fac.6c35ed59.393be089@aol.com>
Message-ID: <24CF89025A4847C288B6CF4F4E02BB03@joepentiumnew>

Worn throttle shaft channels can also cause the revs to be higher than
normal owing to the extra air that enters the carb around the shafts.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 10:17 AM
To: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Hi RPM's

In a message dated 6/5/2010 10:12:21 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tr4a2712 at yahoo.com writes:

Question: What's causing this to  happen?





Sounds like you have a piston sticking up in one or both of the carbs,  
possibly dirty. Check by taking the piston up and see if it falls down and  
clicks when it hits bottom.  You may need to run some carb cleaner  thru.  
Another way to tell is to pull the dash pot plug and put it back on,  if the

idle goes down your piston was stuck.
Darrell

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From wfkrebs at yahoo.com  Sat Jun  5 13:17:11 2010
From: wfkrebs at yahoo.com (Bill Krebs)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 12:17:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Moss 802 620   Hood Lift Assembly
Message-ID: <617769.26586.qm@web114416.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hi folks!  Finally see light at the end of my tunnel...my TR-3 TS70048L came
to life yesterday (fired up the engine for the first time and drove her around
the block) ...Jack McCarrick, if you are still out there we are close to
getting together with your TS70047L !!  I still need a few parts that are not
available from the big three and any help from the list in securing the hood
lift assembly would be greatly appreciated.  Bill Krebs

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jun  5 14:45:07 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 16:45:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] Hi RPM's
Message-ID: <c8d1f.45120e9e.393c1153@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/5/2010 9:11:55 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr4a2712 at yahoo.com writes: 
> History: I start up the car &everything is great on the instrument 
> readings-
> Idle= 850-900 RPM. After the engine runs for about 1/2 hr. doing 40+ MPH- 
> tach
> is reading 2,000->3,000 (depending on my driving speeds). When I then come 
> to
> a stop light, sign, etc. the RPM's stick at 2,000. I then 'blimp' the gas
> peddle (a quick accretion &then drop the pressure on the gas peddle) the
> RPM's then drop down to idle speed =850->900. 
> 
> Question: What's causing this to happen?
> 

Check for throttle shaft wear.  Grab the shafts and see if they will 
wiggle.  If there is too much play the throttle plates don't return to the same 
position and will bind up off-center creating a larger opening causing a high 
idle.

Dave

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jun  5 20:47:30 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 22:47:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sam Halkias at HEARTLAND PARK in August - SCCA National
 Champion TR6
Message-ID: <8CCD339BE1898D7-184C-CB54@webmail-d048.sysops.aol.com>

Listers,

This weekend Sam Halkias told me of his plans to enter the Kastner Cup race in
August at Heartland Park (Topeka, KS)

The TR6 Champ Car will be on display during the race weekend, and will likely
find the track in Exhibition.

Sam also plans to bring a vintage prepared TR6 to run the Kastner Cup....

We would like to invite all Triumph folks to join the FOT in the paddock to
meet and greet Kas Kastner and Sam Halkias.

Special Car Corral areas are being set up so you can park with your friends.

Joe Alexander
Friends of Triumph

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Sat Jun  5 22:14:41 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 21:14:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A Project
Message-ID: <732547.38809.qm@web59715.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Hi List,
I got my TR4A back home Thursday last week.  The 22 month project of
having it restored (partially restored--not body-off, no interior/cabin work,
no paint job) by a garage is over.  Now, I have to figure out how to correct
some oversights (although the mechanics did a very good job on the car)....The
link below shows how the car sits.  The body is too far above the front
wheels.  This may be springs as a friend suggested....Any thoughts on why the
front end is so high above the wheels?  Is it just springs?  Have others had
this problem?....As I get reacquainted with the car, I'll probably have more
questions.  Hope you don't mind.....Thanks everyone for seeing me through the
project and with great suggestions.
Pat
TR4A '67
1CTC/72746-L
http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/TR%20Springs/

From staffel at comcast.net  Sun Jun  6 00:04:58 2010
From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 06:04:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] High rpm
Message-ID: <319308510-1275804254-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-392131883-@bda2781.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Hi Cosmo!
Since the TR3/early 4's don,t have the temp compensator of stromberg CD2's when malfunction also causes a 2000rpm 'idle'; the most likely culprits are as said the sticky piston or mis-sync-ed carb throttle shafts. 
On the 1st- clean the piston, the bore, the dashpot guide (top of piston) as varnish can build up; but also clean the bushing in the carb dome top. Also- make sure the dome is concentric- pistons can stick if the dome is 'warped'- and the warp can be misalignment. Racers used to run the dashpits dry in the 60's I was told.

Make sure the 'spring clamps'  between / connecting the throttle shafts are not cracked or not tightening- or slipping.

Have had both issues on my TR4 and jensen healey/GT (lotus 907's) , triple carb 6 cyl Jag E's,and 4carb jag V-12 
Sherman
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Sun Jun  6 06:51:03 2010
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 08:51:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] need TR6 waterpump in Asheboro NC
Message-ID: <web-62908788@mail.presby.edu>

I was driving my 1974 TR6 from home in SC to Chapel Hill, 
NC to go with my son to see vintage road racing at VIR in 
VA Saturday.  My water pump went out in Asheboro Friday 
evening.  I got lucky (I think) when I spotted an old 
garage with an MG-T something out front.  The guy says he 
has a mechanic who will do the job for me, and I left my 
car in his garage.  We went to VIR yesterday, had a great 
time, but heard from the garage that they couldn't find 
the water pump anywhere Saturday.  Probably not a big 
surprise, but I'm really hoping to get it done Monday. 
 Just in case the mechanic has trouble finding the part 
Monday morning, does anyone out there in NC know a source 
for the part that I can put the guy onto?

Thanks,
Tim

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jun  6 09:17:10 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 11:17:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Sam Halkias at HEARTLAND PARK in August - SCCA National
 Champion TR6
Message-ID: <8a23.7fc5476a.393d15f6@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/5/2010 10:49:38 PM Central Daylight Time, 
n197tr4 at cs.com writes: 
> This weekend Sam Halkias told me of his plans to enter the Kastner Cup 
> race in
> August at Heartland Park (Topeka, KS)
> 
> The TR6 Champ Car will be on display during the race weekend, and will 
> likely
> find the track in Exhibition.
> 
> Sam also plans to bring a vintage prepared TR6 to run the Kastner Cup....
> 
> We would like to invite all Triumph folks to join the FOT in the paddock 
> to
> meet and greet Kas Kastner and Sam Halkias.
> 
> Special Car Corral areas are being set up so you can park with your 
> friends.
> 

Joe, what weekend is that?

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jun  6 09:35:04 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 11:35:04 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A Project
Message-ID: <93b2.6ce4c1bd.393d1a28@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/5/2010 11:40:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pcaffrey at ymail.com writes: 
> I got my TR4A back home Thursday last week.  The 22 month project of
> having it restored (partially restored--not body-off, no interior/cabin 
> work,
> no paint job) by a garage is over.  Now, I have to figure out how to 
> correct
> some oversights (although the mechanics did a very good job on the 
> car)....The
> link below shows how the car sits.  The body is too far above the front
> wheels.  This may be springs as a friend suggested....Any thoughts on why 
> the
> front end is so high above the wheels?  Is it just springs?  Have others 
> had
> this problem?....As I get reacquainted with the car, I'll probably have 
> more
> questions.  Hope you don't mind.....Thanks everyone for seeing me through 
> the
> project and with great suggestions.
> 

Are those new springs?  Are they higher rate springs?  If the answer to 
both questions is yes you may have a set of springs that are correct for the 
later model TR6.  As you may recall, Triumph raised the ride height to meet 
bumper regulations.  I have a set on my TR6 and it sits pretty high.  I kind 
of like it as I don't drag on speed bumps and such.

Dave

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Jun  6 10:06:32 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 12:06:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] Hi RPM's
Message-ID: <f0a5.7dcc602b.393d2188@aol.com>

Also.......squirt some choke cleaner or WD40 on the throttle shafts right  
where they go through the carbs while the motor is running - listen for any  
change in rpm - if the shafts are sealing correctly, the rpm should stay  
consistent.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 6/5/2010 5:23:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:

Grab the  shafts and see if they will 
wiggle.  If there is too much play the  throttle plates don't return to the 
same 
position and will bind up  off-center creating a larger opening causing a 
high  
idle.

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Jun  6 10:39:26 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 12:39:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A Project
Message-ID: <10a12.36707e2f.393d293e@aol.com>

Pat,
 
I think you're correct to suspect springs as the cause of the high ride  
height.....I've seen this on another TR4A that I worked on while employed at a 
 Brit car restoration shop a few years ago.  Can you check with your  
restoration shop to get a part number for the springs they used to confirm if  
the correct springs were ordered and fitted?
 
It's not unusual for even correct springs to sit a little high when the car 
 is first placed on the road.  Generally after a few miles, the rubber  
control arm, etc. bushings will take a set and the suspension will  settle to a 
reasonable height.  But, your's, like the one I worked on,  is higher than 
usual.
 
I've seen a bunch of weird spring heights from the big three for "stock"  
springs for the same car.  I still can't figure out why several pairs of a  
stock springs (stock psi steel) from different suppliers measure  differently 
from top to bottom when you take them out of the box???
 
I'm probably going to replace my stock springs this winter with a higher  
rated springs and, while I'm at it, replace the front sway bar with a  
thicker unit.  No financial interest here, but I think I'll consult with  Richard 
Good from GoodParts for my best choice - I'm not looking to make an  
autocross car - just firm up the ride!
 
Good luck....
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jun  6 10:42:06 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 09:42:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Project
In-Reply-To: <93b2.6ce4c1bd.393d1a28@cs.com>
References: <93b2.6ce4c1bd.393d1a28@cs.com>
Message-ID: <001c01cb0597$33bf3280$0301a8c0@randall>

> As you may recall, Triumph raised the ride 
> height to meet 
> bumper regulations.  

Was that another case of changing the part without changing the part number?

Randall

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Sun Jun  6 12:03:26 2010
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 14:03:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr 4 gas tank leak
Message-ID: <AD9A7FA3-AC8F-4988-89EA-AD49283D2415@verizon.net>

Well I'm still making progress, just in a backward direction.  After  
putting gas in the tank in anticipation of starting the car for the  
first time, I had to deal with all the gas line leaks of course.  In  
tightening the line to the tank something "gave" and now I have a leak  
at tank.  The threaded sleeve loosened and now leaks gas.  So what do  
I do now?  Can this be fixed or do I need to replace the tank ? Or  
should I just quit while I'm "ahead," put the car together and have a  
garage ornamement to look at but not drive?
Thanks all!

Gary O

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Jun  6 13:12:22 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 12:12:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr 4 gas tank leak
In-Reply-To: <AD9A7FA3-AC8F-4988-89EA-AD49283D2415@verizon.net>
References: <AD9A7FA3-AC8F-4988-89EA-AD49283D2415@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <9A4557CE95D74029B46C3C201788E461@joepentiumnew>

If you have a leak at the point where the adapter is attached to the tank,
it is quite possible that you can braze the connection and stop the leak.  

Just remember if you do, to fill the tank completely with water in order to
purge any remaining fumes after draining the gas.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary O'Hagan
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 11:03 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tr 4 gas tank leak

Well I'm still making progress, just in a backward direction.  After  
putting gas in the tank in anticipation of starting the car for the  
first time, I had to deal with all the gas line leaks of course.  In  
tightening the line to the tank something "gave" and now I have a leak  
at tank.  The threaded sleeve loosened and now leaks gas.  So what do  
I do now?  Can this be fixed or do I need to replace the tank ? Or  
should I just quit while I'm "ahead," put the car together and have a  
garage ornamement to look at but not drive?
Thanks all!

Gary O

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Jun  6 13:34:24 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 14:34:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Sam Halkias at HEARTLAND PARK in August - SCCA National
 Champion TR6
In-Reply-To: <8a23.7fc5476a.393d15f6@cs.com>
References: <8a23.7fc5476a.393d15f6@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20100606193334.7312118764D@autox.team.net>

It's Aug 20 - 22.  This website has more details:
http://www.heartlandvintageracing.com/

The "host" hotel is the Ramada in Topeka, KS:
http://www.topekaramada.com/

Tony Drews

At 10:17 AM 6/6/2010, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
>In a message dated 6/5/2010 10:49:38 PM Central Daylight Time,
>n197tr4 at cs.com writes:
> > This weekend Sam Halkias told me of his plans to enter the Kastner Cup
> > race in
> > August at Heartland Park (Topeka, KS)
> >
> > The TR6 Champ Car will be on display during the race weekend, and will
> > likely
> > find the track in Exhibition.
> >
> > Sam also plans to bring a vintage prepared TR6 to run the Kastner Cup....
> >
> > We would like to invite all Triumph folks to join the FOT in the paddock
> > to
> > meet and greet Kas Kastner and Sam Halkias.
> >
> > Special Car Corral areas are being set up so you can park with your
> > friends.
> >
>
>Joe, what weekend is that?
>
>Dave

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jun  6 14:59:42 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 16:59:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr 4 gas tank leak
In-Reply-To: <9A4557CE95D74029B46C3C201788E461@joepentiumnew>
References: <AD9A7FA3-AC8F-4988-89EA-AD49283D2415@verizon.net>
	<9A4557CE95D74029B46C3C201788E461@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <201006061659.43545.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, June 06, 2010 03:12:22 pm Joe Curry wrote:
> If you have a leak at the point where the adapter is attached to the tank,
> it is quite possible that you can braze the connection and stop the leak.
> 
> Just remember if you do, to fill the tank completely with water in order to
> purge any remaining fumes after draining the gas.
> 
> Joe
> 
Gary, Joe,

I would be careful using a torch on a tank even if it was "purged". I 
attempted the same thing way back in the late 60's on a 3 tank. I even had the 
tank 3/4 full of water at the time but it exploded anyway. I was lucky to have 
survived. Only some cuts on the chest and legs.

I would guess as long as you smell gas, there is a risk.

If it was me, I would source a new tank and let this one sit for awhile to 
vent and use as a spare.

I see 4, 6  tanks on Ebay all the time. A 6 tank can be used. Just plug the 
vent or install the 6 vent system.

Bob

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Jun  6 15:18:48 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 14:18:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr 4 gas tank leak
In-Reply-To: <201006061659.43545.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <AD9A7FA3-AC8F-4988-89EA-AD49283D2415@verizon.net>
	<9A4557CE95D74029B46C3C201788E461@joepentiumnew>
	<201006061659.43545.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <F06C2C9754F54F8EAFC0493FBF99E447@joepentiumnew>

Sage advice.

It is not the gasoline that explodes, it is the fumes.  So as long as you
smell gas, it is dangerous.

That said, I have repaired two tanks in the manner I described with no
problems.

The trick is to ensure all the fumes are gone.  A fan blowing air into the
tank with the sending unit port open for several hours will go a long way
toward getting any remaining fumes out.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob [mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net] 
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 2:00 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: Joe Curry; 'Gary O'Hagan'
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr 4 gas tank leak

On Sunday, June 06, 2010 03:12:22 pm Joe Curry wrote:
> If you have a leak at the point where the adapter is attached to the tank,
> it is quite possible that you can braze the connection and stop the leak.
> 
> Just remember if you do, to fill the tank completely with water in order
to
> purge any remaining fumes after draining the gas.
> 
> Joe
> 
Gary, Joe,

I would be careful using a torch on a tank even if it was "purged". I 
attempted the same thing way back in the late 60's on a 3 tank. I even had
the 
tank 3/4 full of water at the time but it exploded anyway. I was lucky to
have 
survived. Only some cuts on the chest and legs.

I would guess as long as you smell gas, there is a risk.

If it was me, I would source a new tank and let this one sit for awhile to 
vent and use as a spare.

I see 4, 6  tanks on Ebay all the time. A 6 tank can be used. Just plug the 
vent or install the 6 vent system.

Bob

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jun  6 15:36:56 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 17:36:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr 4 gas tank leak
In-Reply-To: <AD9A7FA3-AC8F-4988-89EA-AD49283D2415@verizon.net>
References: <AD9A7FA3-AC8F-4988-89EA-AD49283D2415@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <DA66F20F73B148B79CD767F047F6AB50@BobPC>

This is the perfect opportunity to have your tank professionally purged and 
a new outlet bung soldered in. I did this on my 6 a few years ago and 
installed a NAPA shut off valve in the bung which makes working on the car a 
lot easier. The purging and bung probably cost me about $75. The shut off 
valves run between $12 & $40.

You can see it here toward the bottom of the page 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TBI_6.htm

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Gary O'Hagan" <goh62agan at verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 2:03 PM
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tr 4 gas tank leak

> Well I'm still making progress, just in a backward direction.  After 
> putting gas in the tank in anticipation of starting the car for the  first 
> time, I had to deal with all the gas line leaks of course.  In  tightening 
> the line to the tank something "gave" and now I have a leak  at tank.  The 
> threaded sleeve loosened and now leaks gas.  So what do  I do now?  Can 
> this be fixed or do I need to replace the tank ? Or  should I just quit 
> while I'm "ahead," put the car together and have a  garage ornamement to 
> look at but not drive?
> Thanks all!
>
> Gary O
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jun  6 15:53:34 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 14:53:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr 4 gas tank leak
In-Reply-To: <AD9A7FA3-AC8F-4988-89EA-AD49283D2415@verizon.net>
References: <AD9A7FA3-AC8F-4988-89EA-AD49283D2415@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <007a01cb05c2$b68f73c0$0301a8c0@randall>

> In  tightening the line to the tank something "gave" and now I 
> have a leak  at tank.  

Well, first thing of course is to get the gas out.  I keep one of the little
Facet electric pumps around as both a transfer pump (for transferring the
gas to another car when you need to empty a tank) and as an emergency spare
for the original mechanical pump.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php
or they sometimes show up on eBay for as little as $20 (but be sure to get
the low pressure version if you're going to use it with SU/ZS/Weber carbs).

Then see what is stripped.  If it's just the relatively soft nut, it
shouldn't be too hard to replace.  My local full line auto parts store
carries them in steel (if it's the one I'm thinking of, I could be
mistaken).

If the tank fitting is stripped, I believe they are standard 1/2 NF SAE
threads, which means a Helicoil should do to repair it (probably still a
good idea to replace the nut).

Or, another option might be to re-tap the tank fitting for 1/4 NPT, then use
a readily available 1/4 NPT to 5/16" hose barb adapter plus a short length
of 5/16" id fuel line and clamps to join with the original hard line.  But
the Helicoil is a better solution, IMO.

I'm not positive, but I think the tank fitting also used the same slightly
oversize compression sleeve as the fuel pump.  Those sleeves are still NLA
AFAIK, but I've taken the liberty of putting Scott Suhring's fabrication
suggestion here:
http://tinyurl.com/37voevm

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jun  6 16:43:34 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 15:43:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr 4 gas tank leak
In-Reply-To: <201006061659.43545.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <AD9A7FA3-AC8F-4988-89EA-AD49283D2415@verizon.net><9A4557CE95D74029B46C3C201788E461@joepentiumnew>
	<201006061659.43545.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <008c01cb05c9$b2942610$0301a8c0@randall>

> I would guess as long as you smell gas, there is a risk.

I would agree with that, but I didn't find it all that difficult to remove
the smell as well.  What I did was run water into the tank until it
overflowed (at the top) and let the water run until I couldn't see any signs
of fuel floating on it.  Then drain and let dry in the sun.  Repeat as
necessary until no smell left.

But I'd still rather not do it if there is an alternative.

Randall

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Jun  6 18:44:30 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 19:44:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Project
In-Reply-To: <93b2.6ce4c1bd.393d1a28@cs.com>
References: <93b2.6ce4c1bd.393d1a28@cs.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W2629CE90A0C0BBE1A680FE1D50@phx.gbl>

On Sun, 6 Jun 2010 11:35:04 Dave1massey at cs.com said:
I have a set on my TR6 and it sits pretty high. I kind of like it



This is a link to Dave TR3 build...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3f9QIalMoIM&feature=PlayList&
p=1031AF83C8F2D55F&playnext_from=PL&playnext=1&index=2


or



http://tinyurl.com/245rn34




%^)



Missed you at the Champagne car show...



Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From elliottr at rmi.net  Sun Jun  6 19:10:59 2010
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 20:10:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] Distributor Screws
Message-ID: <4C0C4723.5020709@rmi.net>

Hi,

A friend was asking me the size of the screws that old the contacts in 
25D and 45D distributors.  He wants to replace the slotted screws with 
Phillips screws as the standard ones almost always get chewed up when 
people use screwdrivers with too small of a blade.

He has not had any luck figuring out the size, so I assume they may be a 
type we don't use much - something besides SAE or metric.  Anyone know 
what size they are/

Thanks,

Roger Elliott

From davgil at aol.com  Sun Jun  6 19:39:06 2010
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 21:39:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Car cover
Message-ID: <8CCD3F95A338735-16AC-173A6@webmail-m064.sysops.aol.com>

When I purchased my TR6 years ago, the seller included a cover that was great
for my purposes.  It was extremely soft and pliable, almost like silk or
nylon, and was very easy on the paint.  Since I keep my 6 garaged, it was
perfect to protect from dust only.  This was not a cover that would be
suitable for exterior use.  Unfortunately, this cover was inadvertently
destroyed and I have been unable to locate a replacement.  Is anyone familiar
with this style of cover and fabric and would you possible have a source for a
replacement?
Thanks for your assistance.
David Gill
1976 TR6

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jun  6 19:39:26 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 21:39:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Project
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W2629CE90A0C0BBE1A680FE1D50@phx.gbl>
References: <93b2.6ce4c1bd.393d1a28@cs.com>
	<SNT123-W2629CE90A0C0BBE1A680FE1D50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CCD3F96617D9D9-2B4-1EFF2@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com>

This is a link to Dave TR3 build...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3f9QIalMoIM&feature=PlayList&;
p=1031AF83C8F2D55F&playnext_from=PL&playnext=1&index=2

or

http://tinyurl.com/245rn34


%^)


Missed you at the Champagne car show...




 Silly.   My car is a small mouth.

Things have been too hectic this year with all my travel and three family
members in hospital.  First one I missed in many years.

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jun  6 21:55:12 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 20:55:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Distributor Screws
In-Reply-To: <4C0C4723.5020709@rmi.net>
References: <4C0C4723.5020709@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <005201cb05f5$3b910fc0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Anyone know 
> what size they are/

My 25D4 takes a 2 BA (British Association).

http://www.britishfasteners.com/threads/

Randall

From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com  Mon Jun  7 00:35:18 2010
From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 23:35:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 - Electrical Connections to solenoid
Message-ID: <107850.90820.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi,

I posted a couple of weeks ago about the wiring to my TR6 solenoid that had
suffered while in storage.

I have had a look at the wiring schematic and at the solenoid on my car. On
the solenoid I can see the main feed from the battery(thick cable) and then 2
spade terminals. One spade terminal appears to be the feed from the ignition
switch and I have reconnected that one. Not sure what should be on the other
spade connector as there is nothing on it at the moment.

Any ideas???

What do I need connected to the solenoid as a minimum to get it to turn over
on the key? At the moment when I turn the key nothing happens.

Thanks

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jun  7 03:30:41 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 02:30:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 - Electrical Connections to solenoid
In-Reply-To: <107850.90820.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <107850.90820.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <006201cb0624$19487780$0301a8c0@randall>

> On
> the solenoid I can see the main feed from the battery(thick 
> cable) and then 2
> spade terminals. One spade terminal appears to be the feed 
> from the ignition
> switch and I have reconnected that one. Not sure what should 
> be on the other
> spade connector as there is nothing on it at the moment.
> 
> Any ideas???

According to Dan's diagram at
http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf
a 76 should have two other spade connectors; one of which gets a
white/yellow wire from the coil; the other gets a white/orange wire from the
"bulb test" relay and from the "seat belt warning" module.

> What do I need connected to the solenoid as a minimum to get 
> it to turn over
> on the key? 

Only the white/red from the ignition switch is required for the engine to
start and run.  

The white/yellow only provides for somewhat easier starting in cold weather;
the white/orange makes the EGR and Brake warning lamps come on while
cranking the engine.  It also does something with the seatbelt warning
and/or buzzer, but I'm not sure what.

My suggestion would be to hook up a meter or test lamp to the existing wire,
and try to verify that it is getting power from the switch when connected to
the starter and the switch is held in the 'start' position.  If so, then
either it's on the wrong terminal (try the other one), or the
solenoid/starter is defective.  If not, then you've got a wiring/switch
problem.

Randall

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Mon Jun  7 07:15:44 2010
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 09:15:44 -0400
Subject: [TR]  Tr 4 gas tank leak
Message-ID: <3AE71FA0-B897-4915-91E6-C861F8583462@mgcarclub.com>

The original outlet fitting is soldered to the tank. It does have two  
flats on it for a wrench but it is not obvious since it doesn't  
protrude very far beyond the foam gasket. I would guess you broke the  
solder joint. You must use two wrenches to re-install. I won't repeat  
all of the previous posts but it can be re-soldered successfully. I  
too would take this as an opportunity to install a shut-off in the  
line. (been there, done that, etc.)

Allen
63 TR4

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Mon Jun  7 09:53:09 2010
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 11:53:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 waterpump
In-Reply-To: <001801cb05ac$b57ec910$207c5b30$@net>
References: <001801cb05ac$b57ec910$207c5b30$@net>
Message-ID: <web-62964093@mail.presby.edu>

Thanks to the list I got several leads on a TR6 water pump 
in NC.  Flying Circus English Cars Limited in Durham was 
the first/closest to come through for me.  I now have it 
in hand, after looking at many neat cars there.

Thanks,
Tim

On Sun, 6 Jun 2010 15:16:04 -0400
  "Adrian Jones" <adrianjones747 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Tim,
> 
> You may try calling:
> 
>Flying Circus English Cars Limited - Durham, North 
>Carolina, USA . Email:
> customerservice at flyingcircusenglishcars.com . Telephone: 
>919/596-4250
> 
> 
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> Adrian

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Mon Jun  7 13:42:13 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 15:42:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] lift-a-dot
Message-ID: <AANLkTin-AdvQdSxu6FFLshfUaHZaRMpYDBLiqZPaCzZv@mail.gmail.com>

I need to replace the straps on the top frame of my TR4 where each
strap has one Lift-A-Dot fastener at the back end.

The question is, is it possible to install new Lift-A-Dot fasteners
without spending $75 for the installation tool?

Thanks!

Brad
1963 TR4

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jun  7 14:50:28 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 13:50:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] lift-a-dot
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin-AdvQdSxu6FFLshfUaHZaRMpYDBLiqZPaCzZv@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTin-AdvQdSxu6FFLshfUaHZaRMpYDBLiqZPaCzZv@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <23FC1CF0EB464E22979799FE48AF630C@joepentiumnew>

Brad,
Assuming you are talking about the eye part and not the post, the answer is
a definite YES!  All you have to do is locate the part that has the tabs
sticking out and turn it so that the metal piece is against a solid surface
and the fabric is pointing up.  A couple of raps with a rubber mallet will
make the tabs cut through the fabric without bending them.

Afterwards, you can position the other metal (slotted) piece onto the tabs
and bend them over using a tack hammer.

Finally, cut the hole in the center of the fastener with anything that will
do the job, (Awl, Phillips screwdriver, etc).

That is how I installed the fasteners on the front of my Spitfire tonneau
cover.  They work much better than the large eyes that came from the
factory.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 12:42 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] lift-a-dot

I need to replace the straps on the top frame of my TR4 where each
strap has one Lift-A-Dot fastener at the back end.

The question is, is it possible to install new Lift-A-Dot fasteners
without spending $75 for the installation tool?

Thanks!

Brad
1963 TR4

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jun  7 15:46:13 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 14:46:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] lift-a-dot
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin-AdvQdSxu6FFLshfUaHZaRMpYDBLiqZPaCzZv@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTin-AdvQdSxu6FFLshfUaHZaRMpYDBLiqZPaCzZv@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <052c01cb068a$da92fa30$8fb8ee90$@rr.com>

> The question is, is it possible to install new Lift-A-Dot fasteners
> without spending $75 for the installation tool?

Definitely.  And I'm sure you'll get lots of methods.

Mine is to choose where I want the fastener, by pushing the vinyl over the
peg and placing the bottom plate over the bump (on the wrong side of the
top).  I then hold the plate in place with one hand while I slide a piece of
cardboard underneath, and poke through each of the slots with a sharp X-acto
knife.  The tiny slits are nearly invisible, so a mistake at this point is
no big deal, just move to the correct position and don't worry about the
abandoned slit.

Now force the prongs of the top plate through the slits.  It may take some
pressure with fingernails right next to the slit to force the prong through,
as it has to spread and enlarge the slit.  Then put the bottom plate in
place, and crimp the prongs.  Finally, I use the X-acto knife to trim away
the vinyl through the center hole in the bottom plate.

Crude, but works for me.

-- Randall 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Jun  7 16:51:52 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 15:51:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 - Electrical Connections to solenoid
In-Reply-To: <107850.90820.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <107850.90820.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikD85WOerqS5qJN-zLFZzs6O5fj3FSAhqkUCq3m@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/6/10, Alex Cherington <a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com> wrote:
> ...One spade terminal appears to be the feed from the ignition
> switch and I have reconnected that one...
>
> What do I need connected to the solenoid as a minimum to get it to turn over
> on the key? At the moment when I turn the key nothing happens.

Just in case it isn't... the solenoid must be fastened in place to
operate (or at the very least the mount needs to be grounded to the
body of the car).  If it is swingin' free or otherwise not grounded,
it will not work.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Jun  7 16:57:46 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 15:57:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] lift-a-dot
In-Reply-To: <052c01cb068a$da92fa30$8fb8ee90$@rr.com>
References: <AANLkTin-AdvQdSxu6FFLshfUaHZaRMpYDBLiqZPaCzZv@mail.gmail.com>
	<052c01cb068a$da92fa30$8fb8ee90$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilm5CQVmgLtKWpwUt56nAmLSUH_znEAeELAHCzB@mail.gmail.com>

You will almost certainly need to use the Xacto knife technique for
the location you described as you should be going through multiple
layers of webbing plus (if you still have them) the vinyl 'boots' that
go over the ends of the straps.

Geo

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Mon Jun  7 17:52:20 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 19:52:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] lift-a-dot
In-Reply-To: <23FC1CF0EB464E22979799FE48AF630C@joepentiumnew>
References: <AANLkTin-AdvQdSxu6FFLshfUaHZaRMpYDBLiqZPaCzZv@mail.gmail.com>
	<23FC1CF0EB464E22979799FE48AF630C@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikveoQOTMaLk0qaoRKd58vE8pO0zuGmRc9lC7nt@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Joe and all who replied.  It sounds like everyone has a very
similar approach to installing these things.

Makes you wonder how many of the special tools Moss would sell if the
price was dropped some.  For a few snaps its hard to justify that kind
of money.

Thanks again!

Brad


On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 4:50 PM, Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:
> Brad,
> Assuming you are talking about the eye part and not the post, the answer is
> a definite YES!  All you have to do is locate the part that has the tabs
> sticking out and turn it so that the metal piece is against a solid surface
> and the fabric is pointing up.  A couple of raps with a rubber mallet will
> make the tabs cut through the fabric without bending them.
>
> Afterwards, you can position the other metal (slotted) piece onto the tabs
> and bend them over using a tack hammer.
>
> Finally, cut the hole in the center of the fastener with anything that will
> do the job, (Awl, Phillips screwdriver, etc).
>
> That is how I installed the fasteners on the front of my Spitfire tonneau
> cover.  They work much better than the large eyes that came from the
> factory.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
> Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 12:42 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] lift-a-dot
>
> I need to replace the straps on the top frame of my TR4 where each
> strap has one Lift-A-Dot fastener at the back end.
>
> The question is, is it possible to install new Lift-A-Dot fasteners
> without spending $75 for the installation tool?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> 1963 TR4
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Jun  7 20:05:10 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 19:05:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Continental Shaft: The Best Cars You Can't Buy in the States:
 Cars: GQ
Message-ID: <a0624080dc83355a0b368@[192.168.2.4]>

Interesting link ... I hope the reference to the TR6 is sufficient.



http://www.gq.com/cars-gear/cars/201006/the-best-cars-not-available-in-the-united-states?mbid
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
anabil007 at comcast.net
Wallace, CA

From acey2525 at aol.com  Tue Jun  8 08:01:19 2010
From: acey2525 at aol.com (acey2525 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 10:01:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bumpers for TR3 solid axle
Message-ID: <8CCD52A34148532-21C8-10510@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>

Hi all, rebuilding my rear springs, yes I got the fever from all the threads,
and found I have no bumpers at all.  I see Moss has 3 bumpers listed and don't
have a clue where they go or even if they are for my car or the TR4 solid
axle.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29143#76

They list #81 Bump rubber (on body), #82 rebound rubber (on frame) and #85
Buffer (on ???)  I don't have a clue.  I can guess on the bumper on the frame
- I see a fastener on the frame but other than that I'm lost.  Anyone have
pics or can help me out?

I found this in the MY archives from 2006 and still shaking my head.


> I am looking at installing the new rubber bumpers on the rear axle.  Since
> they don't streach far enough to clear the bearing flange the only
> way I can see
> to install them is to cut them and tie them with safety wire (or zip ties).
> Before I pass the point of no return I ask:  "Am I missing something?"

I don't think so.  That's the way the originals went on, too.

Randall


Thanks in advance,
Jack 1959 TR3A
Philadelphia, PA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun  8 09:11:16 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 08:11:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bumpers for TR3 solid axle
In-Reply-To: <8CCD52A34148532-21C8-10510@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCD52A34148532-21C8-10510@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <02f101cb071c$d7ea0cf0$0301a8c0@randall>

>  Anyone have
> pics or can help me out?

P/N 115456, currently on sale @ TRF for nearly half price ($7 vs $13).
http://www.revingtontr.com/CatalogueImages/TR2/Q.jpg

Randall

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Tue Jun  8 09:18:22 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 11:18:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bumpers for TR3 solid axle
In-Reply-To: <8CCD52A34148532-21C8-10510@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCD52A34148532-21C8-10510@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W469C6018EC360CFA353EF8A5D60@phx.gbl>

> They list #81 Bump rubber (on body), #82 rebound rubber (on frame) and #85
> Buffer (on ???) I don't have a clue. I can guess on the bumper on the frame
> - I see a fastener on the frame but other than that I'm lost. Anyone have
> pics or can help me out?


Those things aren't for TR3. The TR3 uses a rubber piece that fits around the
axle housing and works for both bump and rebound. I don't see it in that plate
nor in the TR3 axle plate. But Moss must sell them, one would think.



John

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue Jun  8 09:47:17 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 11:47:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
Message-ID: <AANLkTimoVyZKCbmpF4jvNS_8uPJY7QpYip0nHNgzHWB3@mail.gmail.com>

I'm trying to find out what if any differences there are between the
TR4 and TR4A tonneau covers.

My 63 came with a black tonneau that had been reworked to fit around
the roll bar and since I'm taking the roll bar out I need to use a
different tonneau cover.  The fasteners for the dash were the
Lift-A-Dot style of fasteners as are the ones around the rear cockpit
aluminum trip strips. The doors had the round snaps installed which I
believe is typical for all tonneau covers.

At some time in the past I acquired a nice original (at least I think
it is original) white tonneau.  This particular tonneau has the push
snaps like those used on the doors although it has the Lift-A-Dot
style fasteners for around the rear cockpit trim.

So the question is are the TR4 and TR4A tonneau covers different?  I
would think a 63 TR4 would use the Lift-A-Dot style of fasteners on
the dash for the tonneau.  I base that statement on the fact that my
64 Spitfire used the Lift-A-Dot style for the dash as well so I would
think a 63 TR4 would be the same.

I would prefer the Lift-A-Dot fasteners so I'm also wondering if I can
replace the round snaps with Lift-A-Dot fasteners without ruining the
tonneau.

Thanks!

Brad

From dwillner at ptd.net  Tue Jun  8 09:47:45 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 11:47:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 wiring harness stays
Message-ID: <79EF32F96FB54A698F552BF079E08B43@valued9cfc0b6f>

I can't remember who still supplies the small "T" shaped wiring harness stays
that keeps the harness in place on the TR3's, they are along the floors board,
in the boot and the engine bay...have several that have snapped. Does anyone
know who still has these?  Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA Victor Special

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Jun  8 09:51:36 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 09:51:36 -0600
Subject: [TR] Bumpers for TR3 solid axle
In-Reply-To: <8CCD52A34148532-21C8-10510@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCD52A34148532-21C8-10510@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <DC0EE180F99945A2B06ADB9EB847A3EF@bboffice>

You are looking at the page for the TR4.  TR3's just have the one type of
bumper/buffer that wraps around the rear axel, Moss p/n 674-580, you will
need two of these.  The installation of them is what the email you found is
referring to.

I may have a picture or two, I will send it off-line.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"




They list #81 Bump rubber (on body), #82 rebound rubber (on frame) and #85
Buffer (on ???)  I don't have a clue.  I can guess on the bumper on the
frame
- I see a fastener on the frame but other than that I'm lost.  Anyone have
pics or can help me out?

I found this in the MY archives from 2006 and still shaking my head.


> I am looking at installing the new rubber bumpers on the rear axle.  
> Since they don't streach far enough to clear the bearing flange the 
> only way I can see to install them is to cut them and tie them with 
> safety wire (or zip ties).
> Before I pass the point of no return I ask:  "Am I missing something?"

I don't think so.  That's the way the originals went on, too.

Randall


Thanks in advance,
Jack 1959 TR3A
Philadelphia, PA

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Jun  8 10:16:35 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 16:16:35 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimoVyZKCbmpF4jvNS_8uPJY7QpYip0nHNgzHWB3@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimoVyZKCbmpF4jvNS_8uPJY7QpYip0nHNgzHWB3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <119335.50718.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi, Brad

Lift-the-Dot fasteners at the front are correct to period though the
snaps around the back are better if you can get the original metal ones in the
US. The plastic ones fitted by the factory on all tonneaux at a later stage
were only used on cost grounds and after a while they go brittle and 'snap'.
IMHO they're still as complete a waste of time , money and energy now - as
they were back in the days when they were supplied as new.

Cheers, Jonmac

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue Jun  8 10:23:03 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 12:23:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
In-Reply-To: <119335.50718.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <AANLkTimoVyZKCbmpF4jvNS_8uPJY7QpYip0nHNgzHWB3@mail.gmail.com>
	<119335.50718.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimr9GVpCb6C-zZYVa49MwEZWefGeMwqtYrjChqb@mail.gmail.com>

Jon,

The soft top (hood) uses the Lift-A-Dot fasteners around the rear of
the cockpit and I personally prefer that style of fastener.  My TR6
had the plastic snaps as you mentioned and I HATED those cheap things.

My 63 Spitfire used round snaps at the back and Lift-A-Dots at the
front which I thought was a strange arrangment to have.

Thanks!

Brad


On Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 12:16 PM, John Macartney
<macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> Hi, Brad
>
> Lift-the-Dot fasteners at the front are correct to period though the snaps
> around the back are better if you can get the original metal ones in the
US.
> The plastic ones fitted by the factory on all tonneaux at a later stage
were
> only used on cost grounds and after a while they go brittle and 'snap'.
IMHO
> they're still as complete a waste of time , money and energy now - as they
> were back in the days when they were supplied as new.
>
> Cheers, Jonmac

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Jun  8 11:12:05 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 13:12:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimr9GVpCb6C-zZYVa49MwEZWefGeMwqtYrjChqb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimoVyZKCbmpF4jvNS_8uPJY7QpYip0nHNgzHWB3@mail.gmail.com>
	<119335.50718.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTimr9GVpCb6C-zZYVa49MwEZWefGeMwqtYrjChqb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimB0Zwluc87KZt3VeDbPDmizclWYrI_HHYKLz_U@mail.gmail.com>

My 63 TR4  has lift a dot around the rear coping  and snaps at the dash and
doors.    The dash snaps are a little odd -  the snaps are attached to sheet
metal strips that are attached via the 3 chrome bolts  at the base of the
windscreen.   The center one is smart - it has snaps at either side of the
bolt -  the left and right sides are not a good design - snap at end of
metal strip -  encourages rotation of snap.

Does anyone else have this setup?

Chris
63 TR4 (originally imported to germany and has locking steering column)

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue Jun  8 11:27:55 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 10:27:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bumpers for TR3 solid axle
In-Reply-To: <COL119-W469C6018EC360CFA353EF8A5D60@phx.gbl>
References: <8CCD52A34148532-21C8-10510@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
	<COL119-W469C6018EC360CFA353EF8A5D60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <a06240800c8342d6e47a0@[192.168.2.4]>

I believe what you should be looking for are rear overriders ... Moss 
part no: 802-800



>  > They list #81 Bump rubber (on body), #82 rebound rubber (on frame) and #85
>>  Buffer (on ???) I don't have a clue. I can guess on the bumper on the frame
>>  - I see a fastener on the frame but other than that I'm lost. Anyone have
>>  pics or can help me out?
>
>
>Those things aren't for TR3. The TR3 uses a rubber piece that fits around the
>axle housing and works for both bump and rebound. I don't see it in that plate
>nor in the TR3 axle plate. But Moss must sell them, one would think.
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From michael.stenhouse at c2i.net  Tue Jun  8 11:56:19 2010
From: michael.stenhouse at c2i.net (STEN)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 19:56:19 +0200
Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6 - INDICATOR/FLASHER CANCEL
Message-ID: <00bb01cb0733$e728ac00$b57a0400$@stenhouse@c2i.net>

Hi,

 

Summer has arrived here in Norway and my TR6 is on the road again. The
little lady is happy now.

 

However, I have a recurring problem that I cannot seem to solve.

The indicator arm will not cancel. I have removed the original Lucas unit
and fitted a Rimmerbros unit.

However same condition.

I have checked the cam and it is in place and I hear a click when it passes
the spring loaded cams on the indicator unit.

 

Can anybody please help here as it is very annoying. I have checked the mail
archives and saw nothing there to help me.

 

Hoping for some good tips.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun  8 12:19:31 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 11:19:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bumpers for TR3 solid axle
In-Reply-To: <COL119-W469C6018EC360CFA353EF8A5D60@phx.gbl>
References: <8CCD52A34148532-21C8-10510@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
	<COL119-W469C6018EC360CFA353EF8A5D60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <031f01cb0737$24616730$0301a8c0@randall>

> Those things aren't for TR3. The TR3 uses a rubber piece that 
> fits around the
> axle housing and works for both bump and rebound. I don't see 
> it in that plate
> nor in the TR3 axle plate. But Moss must sell them, one would think.

On the rear suspension plate, item 33:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29142

Randall

From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Jun  8 12:20:19 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 14:20:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimoVyZKCbmpF4jvNS_8uPJY7QpYip0nHNgzHWB3@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimoVyZKCbmpF4jvNS_8uPJY7QpYip0nHNgzHWB3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CCD54E6270FB13-1A14-2C6A@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----

From: Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com>




So the question is are the TR4 and TR4A tonneau covers different?

==AM==
I think so, as the TR4A used "button" snaps around the rear cockpit area
IIRC.
==AM==


I would prefer the Lift-A-Dot fasteners so I'm also wondering if I can replace
the round snaps
with Lift-A-Dot fasteners without ruining the tonneau.

==AM==
I would think so. Assuming you can get the old "button" snaps off and no part
of them had cut into the vinyl,
it would only leave a very small hole. The bit problem would be the relative
location of whichever
fasteners you use and whether they would match up. But if you're just trying
to do this inexpensively,
a few stray small holes probably wouldn't show or otherwise affect things.

--Andy Mace


*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Jun  8 12:59:19 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 11:59:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6 - INDICATOR/FLASHER CANCEL
In-Reply-To: <00bb01cb0733$e728ac00$b57a0400$@stenhouse@c2i.net>
References: <00bb01cb0733$e728ac00$b57a0400$@stenhouse@c2i.net>
Message-ID: <69D9AD67CA4C4B40A5B08A68087EE1CE@joepentiumnew>

That happened to me on one of my Spits a while back.  Turned out to be that
the cam was not positioned between the two cancelling ears when the car was
pointing straight down the road.  So what happened is that it would pass the
cancelling ear when turning but not return to the center as it should have
done to cancel the flasher.

The solution was to remove the shaft from the U-Joint and reposition it so
the the cam was right in the center between the two ears on the switch.

I hope yours turns out to be that easy.

Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STEN
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 10:56 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6 - INDICATOR/FLASHER CANCEL

Hi,

 

Summer has arrived here in Norway and my TR6 is on the road again. The
little lady is happy now.

 

However, I have a recurring problem that I cannot seem to solve.

The indicator arm will not cancel. I have removed the original Lucas unit
and fitted a Rimmerbros unit.

However same condition.

I have checked the cam and it is in place and I hear a click when it passes
the spring loaded cams on the indicator unit.

 

Can anybody please help here as it is very annoying. I have checked the mail
archives and saw nothing there to help me.

 

Hoping for some good tips.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue Jun  8 13:20:00 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 15:20:00 EDT
Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6 - INDICATOR/FLASHER CANCEL
Message-ID: <14d0a.65b306c1.393ff1e0@aol.com>

Michael,
 
It the indicator arm is clicking when it hits the cam lobe on the steering  
column and the signals continue to flash, can you cancel the signals by 
manually  moving the indicator lever?  If you're not moving and you move the  
indicator lever for, let's say a right turn, then move the indicator back to  
"off" position (all without turning the steering wheel) does the signal 
stop  flashing?  If the answers to these questions are yes it sounds like  
either the steering column cam lobe is worn or not fitted correctly or the cogs  
on the indicator switch aren't really making a firm contact with the cam  
lobe...maybe because the indicator lever is missing a fastening screw or is  
simply loose??
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 6/8/2010 2:23:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
michael.stenhouse at c2i.net writes:

I have  checked the cam and it is in place and I hear a click when it passes
the  spring loaded cams on the indicator  unit.

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Tue Jun  8 13:48:06 2010
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 15:48:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1276020002.9240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1276020002.9240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2BEDB6AF-D81D-4FBD-AE53-F8221349DD5F@mgcarclub.com>

That's exactly the same as mine. (US model, no locking steering column)

> My 63 TR4  has lift a dot around the rear coping  and snaps at the  
> dash and
> doors.    The dash snaps are a little odd -  the snaps are attached  
> to sheet
> metal strips that are attached via the 3 chrome bolts  at the base  
> of the
> windscreen.   The center one is smart - it has snaps at either side  
> of the
> bolt -  the left and right sides are not a good design - snap at  
> end of
> metal strip -  encourages rotation of snap.
>
> Does anyone else have this setup?
>
> Chris
> 63 TR4 (originally imported to germany and has locking steering  
> column)

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue Jun  8 14:19:11 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 16:19:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stock TR4 exhaust with header
Message-ID: <AANLkTinCvG2zQbQfSOP0N3HnFBE2Kiqf0cSC1anQQDhD@mail.gmail.com>

My recently acquired TR4 came with what is probably a Pace tubular
header and a hacked up set of non original mufflers and pipes that are
pretty much in need of replacement.

I have sitting on the shelf a complete Falcon stainless exhaust system
for a TR4 that I believe is identical in fit to the original TR4
exhaust system.

What are the odds that the tubular header is a direct replacement for
the factory cast iron manifold and head pipe?

What I'm hoping is I can just remove the bulk of the existing exhaust
system and bolt the factory system directly to the tubular header.

Any thoughts?!

Brad

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Jun  8 14:57:35 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 20:57:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
In-Reply-To: <2BEDB6AF-D81D-4FBD-AE53-F8221349DD5F@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <632645074.3488781276030655905.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

My 62 has the same set up.
Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: Allen Hess 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 19:48:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 tonneau

That's exactly the same as mine. (US model, no locking steering column)

> My 63 TR4  has lift a dot around the rear coping  and snaps at the  
> dash and
> doors.    The dash snaps are a little odd -  the snaps are attached  
> to sheet
> metal strips that are attached via the 3 chrome bolts  at the base  
> of the
> windscreen.   The center one is smart - it has snaps at either side  
> of the
> bolt -  the left and right sides are not a good design - snap at  
> end of
> metal strip -  encourages rotation of snap.
>
> Does anyone else have this setup?
>
> Chris
> 63 TR4 (originally imported to germany and has locking steering  
> column)

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Jun  8 14:58:10 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 20:58:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
In-Reply-To: <2BEDB6AF-D81D-4FBD-AE53-F8221349DD5F@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <1072000939.3489071276030690404.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

My 62 has the same set up.
Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: Allen Hess 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 19:48:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 tonneau

That's exactly the same as mine. (US model, no locking steering column)

> My 63 TR4  has lift a dot around the rear coping  and snaps at the  
> dash and
> doors.    The dash snaps are a little odd -  the snaps are attached  
> to sheet
> metal strips that are attached via the 3 chrome bolts  at the base  
> of the
> windscreen.   The center one is smart - it has snaps at either side  
> of the
> bolt -  the left and right sides are not a good design - snap at  
> end of
> metal strip -  encourages rotation of snap.
>
> Does anyone else have this setup?
>
> Chris

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jun  8 14:59:30 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 20:59:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Stock TR4 exhaust with header
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinCvG2zQbQfSOP0N3HnFBE2Kiqf0cSC1anQQDhD@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2061590032.1630941276030770674.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I don't have any first-hand knowledge on this, but I have heard that Falcons don't always fit right even when you do start with the right stuff.  I fear it's going to be case trying it out.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:

> From: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler at 141.com>
> To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2010 3:19:11 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] Stock TR4 exhaust with header
>
> My recently acquired TR4 came with what is probably a Pace tubular
> header and a hacked up set of non original mufflers and pipes that
> are
> pretty much in need of replacement.
> 
> I have sitting on the shelf a complete Falcon stainless exhaust
> system
> for a TR4 that I believe is identical in fit to the original TR4
> exhaust system.
> 
> What are the odds that the tubular header is a direct replacement for
> the factory cast iron manifold and head pipe?
> 
> What I'm hoping is I can just remove the bulk of the existing exhaust
> system and bolt the factory system directly to the tubular header.
> 
> Any thoughts?!
> 
> Brad

From pboldtrix at juno.com  Tue Jun  8 15:35:21 2010
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 21:35:21 GMT
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
Message-ID: <20100608.173521.16276.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com>

My 72 TR-6 has the same set-up, although I have pegs on the strips that mate
with the lift-a-dots fasteners.  I always thought it was a clever fix for
fasteners that were a little out of place, or situations where the tonneau had
perhaps shrunk a little.

Phil Bacon, 72 TR6, Central Florida


   The dash snaps are a little odd -  the snaps are attached to sheet
metal strips that are attached via the 3 chrome bolts  at the base of the
windscreen.   The center one is smart - it has snaps at either side of the
bolt -  the left and right sides are not a good design - snap at end of
metal strip -  encourages rotation of snap.

Does anyone else have this setup?

Chris
63 TR4 (originally imported to germany and has locking steering column)

_______________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
Drowning In Debt?
The Bankers Don&#39;t Want You to Know About THIS Debt Relief Secret.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4c0eb7a8a108d321c98st02vuc

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Jun  8 15:46:28 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 17:46:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimB0Zwluc87KZt3VeDbPDmizclWYrI_HHYKLz_U@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimoVyZKCbmpF4jvNS_8uPJY7QpYip0nHNgzHWB3@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTimr9GVpCb6C-zZYVa49MwEZWefGeMwqtYrjChqb@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTimB0Zwluc87KZt3VeDbPDmizclWYrI_HHYKLz_U@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201006081746.28705.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday, June 08, 2010 01:12:05 pm Chris Simo wrote:
> My 63 TR4  has lift a dot around the rear coping  and snaps at the dash and
> doors.    The dash snaps are a little odd -  the snaps are attached to
> sheet metal strips that are attached via the 3 chrome bolts  at the base
> of the windscreen.   The center one is smart - it has snaps at either side
> of the bolt -  the left and right sides are not a good design - snap at
> end of metal strip -  encourages rotation of snap.
> 
> Does anyone else have this setup?
> 
> Chris
> 63 TR4 (originally imported to germany and has locking steering column)
> 
Chris,

Yes I do same as you: Lift-o-dots in the rear, snaps on the doors and dash.

I used metal male snaps on the doors.

Maybe the lift-o-dots on the dash were for the early 4s? 61 and 62s?

63 TR4

Bob

From carlsereda at aol.com  Tue Jun  8 16:47:35 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 15:47:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Tonneau snaps
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18752.1276013739.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <214E5D0B.156C.4999.A0C0.3019DE60F9E9@aol.com>

Hi Brad,
The difference between TR4 & TR4A tonneaus is the former has 16 versus 
8 'lift-the-dot' fasteners around the back. Both have normal round 
snaps for the dash area that are identical to the door tonneau snaps. 
Those front round snaps are a real pain to operate in that tight 
awkward windshield area with a nice tight tonneau. I would prefer the 
TR6 solution of a bigger hole (with chrome ring) and the simpler post 
(not a lift-a-dot style). With a taught tonneau, which is what you 
want, the simple TR6 style is a finger and knuckle saver. Even if you 
hook the original round snaps on your dash first it's then a bear to 
get the lift-the-dot snaps hooked up on the back. Finally with the 
TR6, the factory came up with a real nice solution for the front 
fasteners, ie; big hole/simple post. I would definitely not use 
lift-the-dots on front. IMO the snaps are better, but the TR6 
hole/posts design easiest to operate.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

On Jun 8, 2010, at 9:15:39 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

I'm trying to find out what if any differences there are between the
TR4 and TR4A tonneau covers.

My 63 came with a black tonneau that had been reworked to fit around
the roll bar and since I'm taking the roll bar out I need to use a
different tonneau cover. The fasteners for the dash were the
Lift-A-Dot style of fasteners as are the ones around the rear cockpit
aluminum trip strips. The doors had the round snaps installed which I
believe is typical for all tonneau covers.

At some time in the past I acquired a nice original (at least I think
it is original) white tonneau. This particular tonneau has the push
snaps like those used on the doors although it has the Lift-A-Dot
style fasteners for around the rear cockpit trim.

So the question is are the TR4 and TR4A tonneau covers different? I
would think a 63 TR4 would use the Lift-A-Dot style of fasteners on
the dash for the tonneau. I base that statement on the fact that my
64 Spitfire used the Lift-A-Dot style for the dash as well so I would
think a 63 TR4 would be the same.

I would prefer the Lift-A-Dot fasteners so I'm also wondering if I can
replace the round snaps with Lift-A-Dot fasteners without ruining the
tonneau.

Thanks!

Brad

From januaryw at gmail.com  Tue Jun  8 17:35:48 2010
From: januaryw at gmail.com (January Williams)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 16:35:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
Message-ID: <AANLkTiknzEHcp6XF4QSnPidJDT3t_hQm0amWldXUa5ds@mail.gmail.com>

Sounds like the setup for a TR4A; mine is this way.

January Williams
66 TR4A CTC74217 LO  Salem. Oregon
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 13:12:05 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 tonneau

My 63 TR4  has lift a dot around the rear coping  and snaps at the dash and
doors.    The dash snaps are a little odd -  the snaps are attached to sheet
metal strips that are attached via the 3 chrome bolts  at the base of the
windscreen.   The center one is smart - it has snaps at either side of the
bolt -  the left and right sides are not a good design - snap at end of
metal strip -  encourages rotation of snap.

Does anyone else have this setup?

Chris
63 TR4 (originally imported to germany and has locking steering column)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun  8 17:46:03 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 16:46:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stock TR4 exhaust with header
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinCvG2zQbQfSOP0N3HnFBE2Kiqf0cSC1anQQDhD@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinCvG2zQbQfSOP0N3HnFBE2Kiqf0cSC1anQQDhD@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <037a01cb0764$c1bb4230$0301a8c0@randall>

> What are the odds that the tubular header is a direct replacement for
> the factory cast iron manifold and head pipe?

About zero, IMO.  But you might be able to fabricate a connector pipe that
would work.

> Any thoughts?!

I quit messing with "factory" exhaust systems some 10 years ago, and I'll
never go back.  My local muffler shop can build whatever I want from parts,
and generally the price installed is not much more than I would pay for the
parts & shipping.  I just hate messing with exhaust stuff; while he has the
tools and techniques to make it look easy.  It's only mild steel; but now
without lead in the fuel, it seems like mild steel lasts nearly forever.  

The single glasspack system he put on my TR3A in 2000 still looks perfect;
in fact I might have reused it except I wanted a bit mellower sound for the
TR3.  So he built a dual glasspack system, rather similar to the original
except with heavy gauge, aluminized seamless mufflers: $200 out the door.
Best of all, I only waited an hour and didn't even get my hands dirty (not
to mention hair, eyes, etc.)  And the sound is just perfect IMO, none of the
buzzing or booming that I hear others complain of with SS systems. 

Randall

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Tue Jun  8 18:22:57 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 20:22:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6 - INDICATOR/FLASHER CANCEL
In-Reply-To: <00bb01cb0733$e728ac00$b57a0400$@stenhouse@c2i.net>
References: <00bb01cb0733$e728ac00$b57a0400$@stenhouse@c2i.net>
Message-ID: <8CCD5810BB638BF-19D8-2DB8@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com>

 Michael,

It has been awhile since I looked at my switch, but I seem to recall that the
switch was adjustable where it mounted to the steering column.  You could
loosen the mounting screws and move the switch closer the to cam and/or the
steering shaft where the cam is located, thus allowing the cam to function as
it should.  Unfortunately for me this resulted in one direction working as
designed but no amount of adjusting would allow the other side to cancel also.
Let us know what you find out.

Aaron








-----Original Message-----
From: STEN <michael.stenhouse at c2i.net>
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jun 8, 2010 1:56 pm
Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6 - INDICATOR/FLASHER CANCEL


Hi,







Summer has arrived here in Norway and my TR6 is on the road again. The

little lady is happy now.







However, I have a recurring problem that I cannot seem to solve.



The indicator arm will not cancel. I have removed the original Lucas unit

and fitted a Rimmerbros unit.



However same condition.



I have checked the cam and it is in place and I hear a click when it passes

the spring loaded cams on the indicator unit.







Can anybody please help here as it is very annoying. I have checked the mail

archives and saw nothing there to help me.







Hoping for some good tips.







Best Regards,







Michael.



_______________________________________________

Triumphs at autox.team.net

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From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jun  8 19:10:42 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 01:10:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Stock TR4 exhaust with header
In-Reply-To: <1375633055.1742101276045657221.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <729126654.1743151276045842201.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> And the sound is just perfect IMO, none
> of the
> buzzing or booming that I hear others complain of with SS systems. 

Dunno much about TR4 systems (I sold the TR4 with the Bell still in the box), and I don't know much about Falcons except what I have heard through the grapevine, but the Bell system on uncle jack sounds just as good to me now as when JonMac brought it through The Cities last August.  No buzz, no boom, just a mellow V8 delight.  And those stainless tailpipes look mahvelous.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Tue Jun  8 19:24:00 2010
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 21:24:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr 4 gas tank leak
In-Reply-To: <3AE71FA0-B897-4915-91E6-C861F8583462@mgcarclub.com>
References: <3AE71FA0-B897-4915-91E6-C861F8583462@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <97BADC61-14E3-4F69-A7E7-60C2C7ACAD06@verizon.net>

On Jun 7, 2010, at 9:15 AM, Allen Hess <allenhess at mgcarclub.com> wrote:

> The original outlet fitting is soldered to the tank. It does have  
> two flats on it for a wrench
No flats on mine.
> I would guess you broke the solder joint.
Yes, this is where the sleeve broke loose.
> You must use two wrenches to re-install. I won't repeat all of the  
> previous posts but it can be re-soldered successfully.
OK.
> I too would take this as an opportunity to install a shut-off in the  
> line
Good idea.
It's like playing a game of chutes & ladders, just when you think  
you've accomplished something, something else goes awry and you  
backslide.
Thanks all.
Gary O
"Restorating a TR4 one mistake at a time"
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/goh62agan at verizon.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Jun  8 20:19:32 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 19:19:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bumpers for TR3 solid axle
In-Reply-To: <031f01cb0737$24616730$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <8CCD52A34148532-21C8-10510@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
	<COL119-W469C6018EC360CFA353EF8A5D60@phx.gbl>
	<031f01cb0737$24616730$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikcZll19m9qZeOzG-Cofuk08BQn5JhkQN3IOx-4@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/8/10, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> On the rear suspension plate, item 33:

Yep.  I finally replaced mine when I had the exhaust system removed...
would have been tricky to get at the LH one with the muffler in place.
 They come (from Moss)already split.  As I recall I used a big zip-tie
around the fattest part of the buffer to hold it in place while it did
the twisty wire on each side... then cut and removed the zip tie when
done.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Jun  8 20:33:06 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 19:33:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Tonneau snaps
In-Reply-To: <214E5D0B.156C.4999.A0C0.3019DE60F9E9@aol.com>
References: <mailman.18752.1276013739.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<214E5D0B.156C.4999.A0C0.3019DE60F9E9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilvzOgV8DuJHHDcVX_R9TZxcJ1s-CvOW1N4ppdY@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/8/10, carlsereda <carlsereda at aol.com> wrote:
> ...Both [TR4 & 4A] have normal round
> snaps for the dash area that are identical to the door tonneau snaps.
> Those front round snaps are a real pain to operate in that tight
> awkward windshield area with a nice tight tonneau...

I made a version of that front plate that moves those center front
snaps rearward about a quarter inch.  Makes it much easier to attach
there.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TonneauSnaps.JPG

The tonneau is still drum-tight and you have to look real close to see
that I've changed anything:

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Jun  8 20:47:08 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 19:47:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 tonneau
In-Reply-To: <201006081746.28705.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <AANLkTimoVyZKCbmpF4jvNS_8uPJY7QpYip0nHNgzHWB3@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTimr9GVpCb6C-zZYVa49MwEZWefGeMwqtYrjChqb@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTimB0Zwluc87KZt3VeDbPDmizclWYrI_HHYKLz_U@mail.gmail.com>
	<201006081746.28705.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimGr38SHtJxoDKjFmwO8F7KHjncS-_q0DA0332x@mail.gmail.com>

> Yes I do same as you: Lift-o-dots in the rear...

In case you do not know or do not have an example to follow...

I think the female LTDs on the rear edge of the top & tonneau point
away from the centerline of the car, they do not point down.

I based this on how the original top on my 64 TR4 is done.  That
orientation makes it easier to install and remove those snaps.

Geo

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue Jun  8 21:51:20 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 23:51:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Non TR question
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9460F5@CMS01.winhosting.local>

A non-Triumph question, but at least automotive in nature.

I have a 2006 Cadillac DTS. That's the unit with a Northstar 32-valve V8.

The car requires oil changes about every 20,000km (12,500 miles) according to
the dash oil-life read-out and to the e-mail updates I get from the company.

I recall seeing a press release that GM had signed a deal in 2007 to fill the
Northstar line with Mobil 1 which is a synthetic oil. Consequently I re-filled
with Mobil1 when the need for an oil change arose. I like synthetic with its
longer life. I used synthetic in my buick Regal 3.8l engine from 1992-2007
with nary a single drop leaking for 360,000 km and the engine was still
running very smoothly.

I went to the dealer recently to get a scheduled check-up and oil change. When
making sure that they were using the right stuff, I was told that they used
only regular oil. The guy at the desk looked at me with great sympathy for my
stupidity at putting the wrong oil in my car and swore up and down that no
Cadillac had ever used anything but mouldy ooze from a forgotten jungle. In a
moment of weakness I let them fill with regular oil.

I have never heard of a regular oil being used for 20,000km; especially on a
high-compression 4-valve/cylinder engine. I am worried that my car is now
counting down from 20,000 km with inadequate rubbish that will give out at
5,000 km.

Am I wrong, or should I be glad that I do not have telekinisis and thus the
dealer's employee has been saved from a truly dreadful fate brought on by a
tragic coincidence of heavy metal hammers, a barrel of peanut butter and a
brass turkey baster?

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jun  8 22:04:29 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 04:04:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Tonneau snaps
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilvzOgV8DuJHHDcVX_R9TZxcJ1s-CvOW1N4ppdY@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1817105167.1811791276056269731.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> On 6/8/10, carlsereda <carlsereda at aol.com> wrote:
> > ...Both [TR4 & 4A] have normal round
> > snaps for the dash area that are identical to the door tonneau
> snaps.
> > Those front round snaps are a real pain to operate in that tight
> > awkward windshield area with a nice tight tonneau...
> 
> I made a version of that front plate that moves those center front
> snaps rearward about a quarter inch.  Makes it much easier to attach
> there.

I just never used the two center front snaps.  It would have been a lot more than a quarter-inch.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun  8 22:50:05 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 21:50:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Non TR question
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9460F5@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9460F5@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <03f101cb078f$3afa6fc0$0301a8c0@randall>

I can't answer your question, Mark, but my suggestion would be to get a copy
of the owner's manual and read it.

Like you, I prefer synthetic oil (even if I am wasting my money); but Mobil
1 seems to leak much worse in my 95 Buick than the Valvoline I normally use.

Randall

From carlsereda at aol.com  Wed Jun  9 00:31:11 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 23:31:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Tonneau snaps
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilvzOgV8DuJHHDcVX_R9TZxcJ1s-CvOW1N4ppdY@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AC7B1873.4C76.4A8F.827C.B3DF3CF3C221@aol.com>

Nice mod Geo!
One other mod I've seen is a short bit of black canvas belting with a 
snap for the tonneau and a snap for the dash (the belt strap 
'extender' added about an inch to easier reach the dash snap).
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

I made a version of that front plate that moves those center front
snaps rearward about a quarter inch.  Makes it much easier to attach
there.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TonneauSnaps.JPG

The tonneau is still drum-tight and you have to look real close to see
that I've changed anything:

Geo

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Jun  9 01:24:03 2010
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists)
Date: 9 Jun 2010 09:24:03 +0200
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR250/TR6_distributor?=
Message-ID: <MYFA_SERVER_II9WanR00004af3@www.erp-3.net>

Hi,

I'm looking for a Triumph TR250/TR6 ignition distributor.

If you have one or more of this distributor (condition not relevant) wasting shelf place and you don't need it any more, please contact me offline.

Eric

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jun  9 06:10:06 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 08:10:06 EDT
Subject: [TR] Stock TR4 exhaust with header
Message-ID: <ee559.23ba233f.3940de9e@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/8/2010 8:29:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pethier at comcast.net writes: 
> Dunno much about TR4 systems (I sold the TR4 with the Bell still in the 
> box), and I don't know much about Falcons except what I have heard through 
> the grapevine, but the Bell system on uncle jack sounds just as good to me 
> now as when JonMac brought it through The Cities last August.  No buzz, no 
> boom, just a mellow V8 delight.  And those stainless tailpipes look 
> mahvelous.
> 


I'll throw in some more anecdotal observation: I have installed Falcon SS 
exhaust systems on a TR3, a TR6 and a TR8.  I would call it two for three.  
The TR3 system is pleasant while mildly raucous (though not too loud) and the 
TR8 system has a nice subdued growl.  It is only the TR6 system (stock 
replacement) that is buzzy and boomy.  Regrettably it is made of stainless and 
thus is lasting forever.

I did have a Falcon Sports Exhaust system on a TR6 I had years back and I 
thought that had a really nice tone to it although a little bit on the loud 
side. 

Dave

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Wed Jun  9 06:44:52 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 08:44:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stock TR4 exhaust with header
In-Reply-To: <ee559.23ba233f.3940de9e@cs.com>
References: <ee559.23ba233f.3940de9e@cs.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim29P8KMxcv5B7pZQYQLz5-N8rSdFL0vgNh7MKu@mail.gmail.com>

Dave,

I'm pretty sure the Falcon SS for the TR4 is identical to the factory
system used on a TR3.  At least thats what the Moss catalog shoes.  So
if your experience holds true then the sound should be what I'm hoping
for.  Although the one difference being the header that I have vs a
cast iron manifold.  It will be interesting to see if that makes a
difference in sound.

Thanks for the feedback,

Brad


On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 8:10 AM,  <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 6/8/2010 8:29:59 PM Central Daylight Time,
> pethier at comcast.net writes:
>> Dunno much about TR4 systems (I sold the TR4 with the Bell still in the
>> box), and I don't know much about Falcons except what I have heard through
>> the grapevine, but the Bell system on uncle jack sounds just as good to me
>> now as when JonMac brought it through The Cities last August.  No buzz, no
>> boom, just a mellow V8 delight.  And those stainless tailpipes look
>> mahvelous.
>>
>
>
> I'll throw in some more anecdotal observation: I have installed Falcon SS
> exhaust systems on a TR3, a TR6 and a TR8.  I would call it two for three.
> The TR3 system is pleasant while mildly raucous (though not too loud) and
the
> TR8 system has a nice subdued growl.  It is only the TR6 system (stock
> replacement) that is buzzy and boomy.  Regrettably it is made of stainless
and
> thus is lasting forever.
>
> I did have a Falcon Sports Exhaust system on a TR6 I had years back and I
> thought that had a really nice tone to it although a little bit on the loud
> side.
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Wed Jun  9 07:29:56 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 09:29:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stock TR4 exhaust with header
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim29P8KMxcv5B7pZQYQLz5-N8rSdFL0vgNh7MKu@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ee559.23ba233f.3940de9e@cs.com>,
	<AANLkTim29P8KMxcv5B7pZQYQLz5-N8rSdFL0vgNh7MKu@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9460F7@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Did anybody ever manufacture alloy manifolds for the TR series, or is the
exhaust temperature too high for that?

I have a 6:1 header on my 6 going to a stainless falcon sports setup. I had a
6:2 pipe made up to join it. However I've probably about killed any benefit
from a header with a setup like that. I don't feel like putting half a ton of
cast iron manifold back on to use the normal piping for the Falcon though.

Mark
1972 TR6

________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Brad Kahler [brad.kahler at 141.com]
Sent: June 9, 2010 8:44 AM
To: Dave1massey at cs.com; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Stock TR4 exhaust with header

Dave,

I'm pretty sure the Falcon SS for the TR4 is identical to the factory
system used on a TR3.  At least thats what the Moss catalog shoes.  So
if your experience holds true then the sound should be what I'm hoping
for.  Although the one difference being the header that I have vs a
cast iron manifold.  It will be interesting to see if that makes a
difference in sound.

Thanks for the feedback,

Brad


On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 8:10 AM,  <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 6/8/2010 8:29:59 PM Central Daylight Time,
> pethier at comcast.net writes:
>> Dunno much about TR4 systems (I sold the TR4 with the Bell still in the
>> box), and I don't know much about Falcons except what I have heard through
>> the grapevine, but the Bell system on uncle jack sounds just as good to me
>> now as when JonMac brought it through The Cities last August.  No buzz, no
>> boom, just a mellow V8 delight.  And those stainless tailpipes look
>> mahvelous.
>>
>
>
> I'll throw in some more anecdotal observation: I have installed Falcon SS
> exhaust systems on a TR3, a TR6 and a TR8.  I would call it two for three.
> The TR3 system is pleasant while mildly raucous (though not too loud) and
the
> TR8 system has a nice subdued growl.  It is only the TR6 system (stock
> replacement) that is buzzy and boomy.  Regrettably it is made of stainless
and
> thus is lasting forever.
>
> I did have a Falcon Sports Exhaust system on a TR6 I had years back and I
> thought that had a really nice tone to it although a little bit on the loud
> side.
>
> Dave

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Jun  9 10:46:05 2010
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists)
Date: 9 Jun 2010 18:46:05 +0200
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?looking_for_TR250/TR6_distributor?=
Message-ID: <MYFA_SERVER_IIgR8F600004b12@www.erp-3.net>

Hi,

I'm looking for a Triumph TR250/TR6 ignition distributor.

If you have one or more of this distributor (condition not relevant) wasting shelf place and you don't need it any more, please contact me offline.

Eric

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Jun  9 10:57:20 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 09:57:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Fot] oil filter/cooler adapter
In-Reply-To: <001f01cb0755$24268570$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>
References: <001f01cb0755$24268570$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>
Message-ID: <4C0FC7F0.5070707@gmail.com>

On 6/8/10 2:54 PM, riverside wrote:
> I am looking for an adapter to allow use of spin on oil filter
> on TR3/4 engine.  It needs to have fittings to run lines to and
> from an oil cooler.  Moss shows one for the TR6 635-285.
> Anybody know of a similar one for the tractor motor?
>
>    
I had one of the Moss adapters and didn't like it.  I replaced it with 
one that Greg Solow of Greg Solow's Engine Room had made up.  I like the 
design a lot better.

<gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com>

Teriann

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 11:34:54 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 10:34:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Fot] oil filter/cooler adapter
In-Reply-To: <4C0FC7F0.5070707@gmail.com>
References: <001f01cb0755$24268570$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>
	<4C0FC7F0.5070707@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a06240802c83580ecd88f@[192.168.2.4]>

I have an adaptor that I used on the TR3, includes attachments for 
oil cooler, you can have it for postage ... just send me you address 
...


>On 6/8/10 2:54 PM, riverside wrote:
>>I am looking for an adapter to allow use of spin on oil filter
>>on TR3/4 engine.  It needs to have fittings to run lines to and
>>from an oil cooler.  Moss shows one for the TR6 635-285.
>>Anybody know of a similar one for the tractor motor?
>>
>>
>I had one of the Moss adapters and didn't like it.  I replaced it 
>with one that Greg Solow of Greg Solow's Engine Room had made up.  I 
>like the design a lot better.
>
><gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com>
>
>Teriann


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 11:43:50 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 10:43:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Mobil One
Message-ID: <a06240805c83581ef1543@[192.168.2.4]>

I meant to comment on the fellow who was hoodwinked by his Buick 
service manager, or at least that is my opinion.  Mobil One is the 
recommended oil for my Toyota Venza, and I have used it in several 
prior Toyotas, Corolla, Celica, Cressida, Avalon with great success.
I would be willing to guess that the Service Manager just did not 
have any Mobil One, and probably sold the most expensive oil he had.

So in a nutshell ... put the Mobile One back in ... never go to a 
dealer for service, change your own oil and filter, it is the only 
way you can be sure it is done right.

I is not Paranoia to think people are out to get you, when you know 
they are ...
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed Jun  9 11:44:07 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 13:44:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Fot] oil filter/cooler adapter
In-Reply-To: <4C0FC7F0.5070707@gmail.com>
References: <001f01cb0755$24268570$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> 
	<4C0FC7F0.5070707@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikOzVd0WWBxC9J-i3n-SbwGo0RiDqEw9uciJCEI@mail.gmail.com>

I see that Moss has a straight through adaptor (looks like a 1 inch thick
cylinder with a filter adaptor)   and Vicky Brit offers a 90 degree adaptor
-  Are there advantages to a 90 degree mount?

Chris

From michael.stenhouse at c2i.net  Wed Jun  9 12:38:36 2010
From: michael.stenhouse at c2i.net (STEN)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 20:38:36 +0200
Subject: [TR] Thanks for help with - 1973 TR6 - INDICATOR/FLASHER CANCEL
Message-ID: <00d101cb0802$f9634360$ec29ca20$@stenhouse@c2i.net>

Hi Aaron, Chris, Chip and Joe,

 

Thank you very much for your tips and advice.

I was inclined to think that my problem was caused by an off centre cam.

I will check when I get the time. Family calls and I am off to Bergen to
visit my grandchildren at the weekend.

 

All the best,

 

Michael. 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Jun  9 15:59:19 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 17:59:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stock TR4 exhaust with header
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9460F7@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <ee559.23ba233f.3940de9e@cs.com>
	<AANLkTim29P8KMxcv5B7pZQYQLz5-N8rSdFL0vgNh7MKu@mail.gmail.com>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9460F7@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <201006091759.20420.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday, June 09, 2010 09:29:56 am Mark Hooper wrote:
> Did anybody ever manufacture alloy manifolds for the TR series, or is the
> exhaust temperature too high for that?
> 
> I have a 6:1 header on my 6 going to a stainless falcon sports setup. I had
> a 6:2 pipe made up to join it. However I've probably about killed any
> benefit from a header with a setup like that. I don't feel like putting
> half a ton of cast iron manifold back on to use the normal piping for the
> Falcon though.
> 
> Mark
> 1972 TR6
> 
Mark,

I have the stock manifold on my 72 6 and had it plazma coated. I then added a 
Bell Sport dual exhaust system. The fit is perfect as with all my Bell systems 
and the sound is noticeable!

I am not looking for a performance upgrade, just a functional upgrade and I 
always wanted a car with a "true" dual exhaust.

Actually to soon to tell with the sound as I have only run the engine about 
1/2 hour total in my garage but it sounds similar in Dbs to my 3 and 4 which 
are equipped with Bell SS systems.

It will be awhile before I hear it on the road.

Bob

From wfkrebs at yahoo.com  Wed Jun  9 16:39:22 2010
From: wfkrebs at yahoo.com (Bill Krebs)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 15:39:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel gauge
Message-ID: <747331.66998.qm@web114411.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Anyone have a TR3 fuel gauge?  I believe I have a TR4 fuel gauge
(reconditioned by Nyssonger some years ago)  works backward with the TR3 fuel
sender I have.  BTW the car is now negative ground.  Any thoughts?  I read the
archives and found that the fuel gauges in 3's and 4's were different.  I have
a TR4 engine in the car and the gauge may have come with the engine.  The car
was bouht as a project...totally dismantled...but now nearing completion.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Jun  9 17:05:31 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 19:05:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] a rough week for cars
Message-ID: <4C0FE5FB.1550.F461998@localhost>

We've been fighting a locking rear brake on the Caravan for months.  
Once it got so hot so quickly it blew the tire.  It's been diagnosed 
as just an over-tight brake, a malfunctioning parking brake, a 
malfunctioning self-adjusting mechanism.  Lots of parts have been 
replaced.  They just hired a new certified master mechanic and he 
finally diagnosed it as a bad hose, much like us LBC guys have to 
worry about.  Apparently he pressure-tested it.  Only trouble is, the 
part is a single hose running form the front to both back wheels, it 
cost over $400, they have to pull the gas tank out to install it, and 
oh by the way the nearest one is 3 days away.

So for the past two days I've driven the GT6 to work, 110 miles round 
trip.  Today as I'm sitting in traffic through town only a quarter of 
a mile from home I start hearing a horrible grinding, crunching, 
rubbing sound.  If the tranny is in neutral and I depress the clutch, 
it stops.  If I release the clutch with the tranny in neutral, it 
starts up.  When the car is rolling, if I depress the clutch and put 
it in neutral the noise stops.  If I depress the clutch and put it in 
any gear, the noise starts up.  The common element in these 
combinations is the laygear.  Spin the laygear and it ain't happy.  
After that wonderful trip to Mt. Desert and two day trips to work, it 
decided to get sick so close to home.  St. Lucas must have been 
looking out for me.  But now I have to tear the tranny down again.  
Oh well, it's been whining a lot lately anyway.

So I'm down to only one car.  The Spitfire has been sitting in the 
garage, battery slowly going down and already in negative numbers.  
It needed inspection last October.  However with a starter battery 
attached he fired right up.  Maybe tomorrow I can get it inspected 
early in the morning then go to work.

Anybody got a spare free month they can lend me?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Wed Jun  9 17:30:13 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 19:30:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] a rough week for cars
Message-ID: <8f381.53983420.39417e05@aol.com>

Hi Jim;
 
I've got a spare month I can lend you, if you can pay me back in full, plus 
 interest, during tree-planting season next year!
 
Tim, TR3A TS22930LO
 
Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 
NOW FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK!

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jun  9 17:33:56 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 16:33:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] a rough week for cars
In-Reply-To: <4C0FE5FB.1550.F461998@localhost>
References: <4C0FE5FB.1550.F461998@localhost>
Message-ID: <90910208B05F4904AEC11AF5EDDAE5AB@joepentiumnew>

Jim, If you are fortunate it might only be the throwout bearing.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 4:06 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net; Spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] a rough week for cars

We've been fighting a locking rear brake on the Caravan for months.  
Once it got so hot so quickly it blew the tire.  It's been diagnosed 
as just an over-tight brake, a malfunctioning parking brake, a 
malfunctioning self-adjusting mechanism.  Lots of parts have been 
replaced.  They just hired a new certified master mechanic and he 
finally diagnosed it as a bad hose, much like us LBC guys have to 
worry about.  Apparently he pressure-tested it.  Only trouble is, the 
part is a single hose running form the front to both back wheels, it 
cost over $400, they have to pull the gas tank out to install it, and 
oh by the way the nearest one is 3 days away.

So for the past two days I've driven the GT6 to work, 110 miles round 
trip.  Today as I'm sitting in traffic through town only a quarter of 
a mile from home I start hearing a horrible grinding, crunching, 
rubbing sound.  If the tranny is in neutral and I depress the clutch, 
it stops.  If I release the clutch with the tranny in neutral, it 
starts up.  When the car is rolling, if I depress the clutch and put 
it in neutral the noise stops.  If I depress the clutch and put it in 
any gear, the noise starts up.  The common element in these 
combinations is the laygear.  Spin the laygear and it ain't happy.  
After that wonderful trip to Mt. Desert and two day trips to work, it 
decided to get sick so close to home.  St. Lucas must have been 
looking out for me.  But now I have to tear the tranny down again.  
Oh well, it's been whining a lot lately anyway.

So I'm down to only one car.  The Spitfire has been sitting in the 
garage, battery slowly going down and already in negative numbers.  
It needed inspection last October.  However with a starter battery 
attached he fired right up.  Maybe tomorrow I can get it inspected 
early in the morning then go to work.

Anybody got a spare free month they can lend me?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From agraham at execulink.com  Wed Jun  9 18:09:42 2010
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 20:09:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Straightening coiled brake tubing.
Message-ID: <4C102D46.2010900@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Just purchased a brake tube kit and it arrived all neatly coiled. Any 
tips on how to straighten the longer lengths? Concerned about the long 
front to back tube on the TR 2/3. Want the tubing to at least look a bit 
straight and not too wavy.
On the long tube on the TR2/3 have others made the curve around the 
floor hole for the jack point? Looks as though you could keep the tube 
straight and tuck inside the frame adjacent to the floor hole. Any 
experiences?
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jun  9 18:53:20 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 17:53:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <747331.66998.qm@web114411.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <747331.66998.qm@web114411.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <053f01cb0837$52de3970$0301a8c0@randall>

> Anyone have a TR3 fuel gauge?  I believe I have a TR4 fuel gauge
> (reconditioned by Nyssonger some years ago)  works backward 
> with the TR3 fuel
> sender I have.  BTW the car is now negative ground.  Any 
> thoughts?  

Neither type of gauge is affected by polarity, but the TR4 gauge does work
backwards to the TR3 (and early TR4 looks nearly identical).  So it sounds
like you do have a TR4 gauge.

I've got several unrestored originals; including the one from TS39781LO.
Write me off-list if you're interested.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Jun  9 19:17:56 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 21:17:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] a rough week for cars
In-Reply-To: <90910208B05F4904AEC11AF5EDDAE5AB@joepentiumnew>
References: <4C0FE5FB.1550.F461998@localhost>
Message-ID: <4C100504.10619.FBF56B4@localhost>

On 9 Jun 2010 at 16:33, Joe Curry wrote:

> Jim, If you are fortunate it might only be the throwout bearing.

Joe, don't I wish you were right.  But the TO bearing would stop 
making noise, not start, when I release the clutch.  And with the 
clutch depressed and the car rolling it wouldn't start making noise 
whenever I engage any gear, and stop when I put it back into neutral.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Wed Jun  9 19:49:11 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 21:49:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mobil One
In-Reply-To: <a06240805c83581ef1543@[192.168.2.4]>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9A01@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Bill:

Thanks for the input. I'm definitely switching back to synthetic in a couple
of thousand miles. Talk about disappointing to get such mis-information from
the dealer; one would thing they would know better.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: June 9, 2010 1:44 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Mobil One

I meant to comment on the fellow who was hoodwinked by his Buick
service manager, or at least that is my opinion.  Mobil One is the
recommended oil for my Toyota Venza, and I have used it in several
prior Toyotas, Corolla, Celica, Cressida, Avalon with great success.
I would be willing to guess that the Service Manager just did not
have any Mobil One, and probably sold the most expensive oil he had.

So in a nutshell ... put the Mobile One back in ... never go to a
dealer for service, change your own oil and filter, it is the only
way you can be sure it is done right.

I is not Paranoia to think people are out to get you, when you know
they are ...
--
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jun  9 19:56:05 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 18:56:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] a rough week for cars
In-Reply-To: <4C100504.10619.FBF56B4@localhost>
References: <4C0FE5FB.1550.F461998@localhost>
	<4C100504.10619.FBF56B4@localhost>
Message-ID: <935E9D599301478DAB9EFC6719003330@joepentiumnew>

Not necessarily.  If the bearing is loose the vibrations might cause noise
that is stopped when the bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers.  But
in most situations, you are probably right.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 6:18 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net; Spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] a rough week for cars

On 9 Jun 2010 at 16:33, Joe Curry wrote:

> Jim, If you are fortunate it might only be the throwout bearing.

Joe, don't I wish you were right.  But the TO bearing would stop 
making noise, not start, when I release the clutch.  And with the 
clutch depressed and the car rolling it wouldn't start making noise 
whenever I engage any gear, and stop when I put it back into neutral.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Jun  9 20:45:19 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 20:45:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] Straightening coiled brake tubing.
In-Reply-To: <4C102D46.2010900@execulink.com>
References: <4C102D46.2010900@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <4C1051BF.8040706@bradakis.com>

Angelo Graham wrote:
> Hello List:
> Just purchased a brake tube kit and it arrived all neatly coiled. Any 
> tips on how to straighten the longer lengths? 

Roll out the coil on a flat floor and the tubing should be as straight
as your floor.

mjb.

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Jun  9 23:51:43 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 00:51:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Fot] oil filter/cooler adapter
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikOzVd0WWBxC9J-i3n-SbwGo0RiDqEw9uciJCEI@mail.gmail.c om>
References: <001f01cb0755$24268570$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>
	<4C0FC7F0.5070707@gmail.com>
	<AANLkTikOzVd0WWBxC9J-i3n-SbwGo0RiDqEw9uciJCEI@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20100610055056.346FD187649@autox.team.net>

I'm not finding the adapter on Moss's site, but one thing that I've 
not seen mentioned - there are two basic designs of the oil cooler 
adapter that I've seen.  One goes between the block and the filter 
"housing", and the 2nd goes between the oil filter itself and the 
filter "housing" - or in my case, replaces the filter completely.  My 
understanding is that the one that sandwiches between the filter 
housing and the block sends the oil pressure before the relief valve 
to the cooler while the one that attaches where the filter would go 
sends the AFTER relief valve pressure to the cooler.  The oil pump 
puts out quite a bit of pressure so you are more apt to split the 
cooler with the higher pressure setup.

- Tony Drews

At 12:44 PM 6/9/2010, Chris Simo wrote:
>I see that Moss has a straight through adaptor (looks like a 1 inch thick
>cylinder with a filter adaptor)   and Vicky Brit offers a 90 degree adaptor
>-  Are there advantages to a 90 degree mount?
>
>Chris
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Jun 10 05:58:43 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 06:58:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?=5BFot=5D_oil_filter/cooler_adapter?=
Message-ID: <20100610115733.C39C7187652@autox.team.net>

So, who sells the best adaptor to use with a spin on and a cooler?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
Date: Thu, Jun 10, 2010 00:51
Subject: [TR] [Fot] oil filter/cooler adapter
To: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>, "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>

I'm not finding the adapter on Moss's site, but one thing that I've not seen mentioned - there are two basic designs of the oil cooler adapter that I've seen.  One goes between the block and the filter "housing", and the 2nd goes between the oil filter itself and the filter "housing" - or in my case, replaces the filter completely.  My understanding is that the one that sandwiches between the filter housing and the block sends the oil pressure before the relief valve to the cooler while the one that attaches where the filter would go sends the AFTER relief valve pressure to the cooler.  The oil pump puts out quite a bit of pressure so you are more apt to split the cooler with the higher pressure setup.

- Tony Drews

At 12:44 PM 6/9/2010, Chris Simo wrote:
>I see that Moss has a straight through adaptor (looks like a 1 inch thick
>cylinder with a filter adaptor)   and Vicky Brit offers a 90 degree adaptor
>-  Are there advantages to a 90 degree mount?
>
>Chris
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

_______________________________________________
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jun 10 06:06:42 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 08:06:42 EDT
Subject: [TR] Straightening coiled brake tubing.
Message-ID: <cd596.34ff43bc.39422f52@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/9/2010 7:29:07 PM Central Daylight Time, 
agraham at execulink.com writes: 
> On the long tube on the TR2/3 have others made the curve around the 
> floor hole for the jack point? Looks as though you could keep the tube 
> straight and tuck inside the frame adjacent to the floor hole. Any 
> experiences?
> 

I bought my set from Classic tube and they were prebent with the dogleg 
around the jacking hole.  However you can probably skip that bit especially if 
you have no plans on using the original jack.  I've never used one.  I never 
had one until more recently.  Not sure I would trust it.  I still don't 
have a ratchet handle for it.

Cheers

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jun 10 07:02:24 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 06:02:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] Straightening coiled brake tubing.
In-Reply-To: <cd596.34ff43bc.39422f52@cs.com>
References: <cd596.34ff43bc.39422f52@cs.com>
Message-ID: <05c801cb089d$2be7a480$0301a8c0@randall>

> However you can probably skip that 
> bit especially if 
> you have no plans on using the original jack.  I've never 
> used one. 

It actually works surprisingly well, IMO, especially when compared to a
scissors jack.  Not as good as a hydraulic trolley jack of course, but who
wants to carry one of those out on the road?  After getting an original
jack, I promptly relegated my scissors jack to the junk box, and haven't
used it since.

> I still don't 
> have a ratchet handle for it.

I didn't either, until relatively recently.  However, the hex is a standard
Whitworth size, and the force required is relatively low, so an open-end
wrench works reasonably well.  I forget the size offhand, but it's in my
Whitworth set. 

Or a adjustable wrench will do, in a pinch.

Personally I would not want to rule out using an original jack, but that's
just my opinion.

Randall

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Thu Jun 10 07:34:54 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 06:34:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Straightening coiled brake tubing.
In-Reply-To: <05c801cb089d$2be7a480$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <cd596.34ff43bc.39422f52@cs.com>
	<05c801cb089d$2be7a480$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <D88DD899-B057-48B3-B63F-DC5F41DDC7C7@gmail.com>

I have only used my original TR3A jack back in my college days (a long time
ago) & I remember it worked much  easier than the stuff they were putting in
American iron at the time.  I always thought of it the jack you use if you had
a flat tire on the road somewhere, not anything I would use at home.  At home
I only use my hydraulic trolley jack.

John


On  10 Jun, 2010, at 6:02 AM, Randall wrote:

>> However you can probably skip that
>> bit especially if
>> you have no plans on using the original jack.  I've never
>> used one.
>
> It actually works surprisingly well, IMO, especially when compared to a
> scissors jack.  Not as good as a hydraulic trolley jack of course, but who
> wants to carry one of those out on the road?  After getting an original
> jack, I promptly relegated my scissors jack to the junk box, and haven't
> used it since.
>
>> I still don't
>> have a ratchet handle for it.
>
> I didn't either, until relatively recently.  However, the hex is a standard
> Whitworth size, and the force required is relatively low, so an open-end
> wrench works reasonably well.  I forget the size offhand, but it's in my
> Whitworth set.
>
> Or a adjustable wrench will do, in a pinch.
>
> Personally I would not want to rule out using an original jack, but that's
> just my opinion.
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com
>

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Jun 10 08:09:58 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 07:09:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Fot] oil filter/cooler adapter
In-Reply-To: <20100610115733.C39C7187652@autox.team.net>
References: <20100610115733.C39C7187652@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4C10F236.7000302@gmail.com>

On 6/10/10 4:58 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
> So, who sells the best adaptor to use with a spin on and a cooler?
>
>    
My vote is for the one sold by Greg Solow.

Teriann

From carlsereda at aol.com  Thu Jun 10 12:54:56 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 11:54:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR jack
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1276192801.895.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D14C0720.B53B.4F6A.9BB1.F5BF6E318DFE@aol.com>

the TR original jack is great on a raining day.. it lifts the car while you're
sitting inside!

However you can probably skip that bit especially if 
you have no plans on using the original jack. I've never used one. I never 
had one until more recently. Not sure I would trust it. I still don't 
have a ratchet handle for it.

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Jun 10 13:59:22 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 14:59:22 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Straightening coiled brake tubing.
Message-ID: <4348418.692952.1276199962144.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net>

Autozone (here in Tampa area) and perhaps other BoxPartsStores have loaner tools (really purchase/gently use/return tools) including the pipe bender necessary for the brake/fuel lines for the TR.   Just finished doing both brake and fuel for the project.  As long as you take it slow it is not a hard job to bend the pipes as necessary.  I did bend around the jack hole on the hydraulic pipe.   I had most of the old ones and that made it easier but for the two sections I didn't have, I used some scrap heavy guage wire to figure out the bends (heavy enough to hold the bends and not flop all over the place).  The fuel line from rear connector to the shut off valve was an interesting (and most difficult) one.  
Carl

Jun 10, 2010 12:29:39 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

In a message dated 6/9/2010 7:29:07 PM Central Daylight Time, 
agraham at execulink.com writes: 
> On the long tube on the TR2/3 have others made the curve around the 
> floor hole for the jack point? Looks as though you could keep the tube 
> straight and tuck inside the frame adjacent to the floor hole. Any 
> experiences?

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Jun 10 14:28:43 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 16:28:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR jack
In-Reply-To: <D14C0720.B53B.4F6A.9BB1.F5BF6E318DFE@aol.com>
References: <D14C0720.B53B.4F6A.9BB1.F5BF6E318DFE@aol.com>
Message-ID: <201006101628.43924.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday, June 10, 2010 02:54:56 pm carlsereda wrote:
> the TR original jack is great on a raining day.. it lifts the car while
> you're sitting inside!
> 
> However you can probably skip that bit especially if
> you have no plans on using the original jack. I've never used one. I never
> had one until more recently. Not sure I would trust it. I still don't
> have a ratchet handle for it.
Carl,

I wouldn't jack it up while in the car but it works great otherwise. Jacks up 
both wheels at the same time.

I carry a small block of plywood to use on the ground.

You can get the ratchet handle for it at TRF. It is very high quality and 
works great.

Bob

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jun 10 16:29:45 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 22:29:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Breather Tube, TR3A
In-Reply-To: <D14C0720.B53B.4F6A.9BB1.F5BF6E318DFE@aol.com>
Message-ID: <580162869.4194641276208985223.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Not sure if it's a problem, haven't caught the culprit in action.  But question: does the oil breather tube on a TR3A have the potential to drip oil?

For what it's worth, oil pressure is a bit over 80 pounds cold.

I've cured the valve cover leak and the oil pan leak, so am losing a small amount that seems directly under the breather tube.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Thu Jun 10 17:11:46 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 19:11:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Commission Plate Question
Message-ID: <20100610231030.9C4D8187643@autox.team.net>

> Could someone confirm the lettering size for the 1974 commission plate.
> From what I've seen (mostly on e-Bay), it looks to me like the date and
> the paint and trim codes are 1/8", while the commission number itself is
> 1/4", but I think I've seen a few plates where the date too was 1/4".
> 
> Thanks,
> BobW
> Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia)
> 1974 TR6

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jun 10 17:44:05 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 19:44:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR jack
Message-ID: <c0354.67ee35d3.3942d2c5@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/10/2010 3:48:26 PM Central Daylight Time, 
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: 
> You can get the ratchet handle for it at TRF. It is very high quality and 
> 
> works great.
> 

Yes, I know.  It's on my list of things to buy.  Eventually.

Dave

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jun 10 18:03:38 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 17:03:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Straightening coiled brake tubing.
In-Reply-To: <cd596.34ff43bc.39422f52@cs.com>
References: <cd596.34ff43bc.39422f52@cs.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim9K_iDi6el0F1rp6K2tc0LgoMfdqfZGd-qUxbt@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/10/10, Dave1massey at cs.com <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> if you have no plans on using the original jack.  I've never used one.  I never
> had one until more recently.  Not sure I would trust it.  I still don't
> have a ratchet handle for it.

If you have a flat tire on the road you may find there isn't room
under the frame for an aftermarket scissors jack or any other such
jack, whereas the thru-the-floor jack still works fine.

Some of the repro ratchet handles were problematic so I carry a
ratchet from a cheap 3/8" set -- there was a metric socket that fit
the jack nicely (13mm?).

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jun 10 18:15:02 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 17:15:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Breather Tube, TR3A
In-Reply-To: <580162869.4194641276208985223.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <D14C0720.B53B.4F6A.9BB1.F5BF6E318DFE@aol.com>
	<580162869.4194641276208985223.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikg-5bdJnzQl9PPVkQWS2o8UecmWfy0q4lO8QTN@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/10/10, terryrs at comcast.net <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> ...does the oil breather tube on a TR3A have the potential to drip oil?

Can probably happen 2 ways...

1.  Misty oil is getting slung around and vented via that tube so I
would think there will be some residue left that could drip after
parking.

2.  The thing can leak where it goes into the block -- can be
prevented/fixed with some sealant there.  The drip might appear to be
coming from the tube itself.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jun 10 18:28:04 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 17:28:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Breather Tube, TR3A
In-Reply-To: <580162869.4194641276208985223.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <D14C0720.B53B.4F6A.9BB1.F5BF6E318DFE@aol.com>
	<580162869.4194641276208985223.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <06cf01cb08fc$f575f400$0301a8c0@randall>

> Not sure if it's a problem, haven't caught the culprit in 
> action.  But question: does the oil breather tube on a TR3A 
> have the potential to drip oil?

Certainly possible.  My TR3A would leave a drop or two after a hard run; as
do most cars with road draft tubes.

The crankcase pretty well fills with oil mist when the engine is running at
speed, and the road draft tube pulls some of that out.  About the only way
to totally eliminate even one drop of oil is to either add a catch can or
convert to PCV of some sort.

Apparently the "evacuation" systems that put what amounts to a road draft
tube into the exhaust pipe work well; I may try that approach.
http://tinyurl.com/2by2fcp

(Thanks to Joe A for that tip.)

Randall

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Jun 11 01:01:25 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 07:01:25 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Commission Plate Question
In-Reply-To: <20100610231030.9C4D8187643@autox.team.net>
References: <20100610231030.9C4D8187643@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <814395.42381.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Might be an idea to compare those 1/4" and 1/8" measurements and see what they
are in metric. Should be 3mm and 6mm (rounded) It was at about this time that
the UK started metricating a lot of things - but by no means all of them and
we're still using imperial and metric measurements for different things - oh,
and driving on the left as well :)

Jonmac
To: triumphs at autox.team.net;
6-Pack Triumphs <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, 11 June, 2010 0:11:46
Subject: [TR] Commission Plate Question

> Could someone confirm the lettering
size for the 1974 commission plate.
> From what I've seen (mostly on e-Bay),
it looks to me like the date and
> the paint and trim codes are 1/8", while
the commission number itself is
> 1/4", but I think I've seen a few plates
where the date too was 1/4".
> 
> Thanks,
> BobW
> Montgomeryville, Pa.
(suburban Philadelphia)
> 1974 TR6

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of
type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From wfkrebs at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 11 11:09:30 2010
From: wfkrebs at yahoo.com (Bill Krebs)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 10:09:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Jack McCarrick
Message-ID: <277602.10017.qm@web114404.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Anyone on the list know Jack or if he is still on the list or working on TS70047L/

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Jun 11 13:08:56 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 14:08:56 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb Fuel Line question
Message-ID: <1176151880.940690.1276283336175.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net>

What is the diameter of the fuel line that goes between the carbs on the TR3?   5/16" looks too big

Thanks
Carl

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Fri Jun 11 13:10:53 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 15:10:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
Message-ID: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>

Hi all;
 
I was bidding on a Triumph on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The car didn't  
meet reserve and I wasn't the highest bidder anyway. I have now received an  
e-mail, I think from the vendor, suggesting a "second chance offer" for the 
car.  The e-mail, which appears to be an ebay generated one but from the 
vendor's  email address, states that the vendor is reconsidering my offer and 
asks me to  get in touch if I have the funds and am still interested.
 
I often see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". Not knowing  
what a "second chance offer" is all about, I got the impression this might 
be  some sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Fri Jun 11 13:59:53 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 15:59:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions
Message-ID: <95D2929CC5E142768D110A0CC18D59E8@TRGUY>

Anyone know the correct size tires for a 1962 TR4 and a good source to buy? I
believe it is 165 R 15, just not sure of the middle  number.   Doesn't seem to
be too many for sale anywhere but Coker.  Also, anyone know of a source to
"re-stamp" my orig commission plate as it is a bit shabby. I have not been
impressed with laser etching as it doesn't look orig.



Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

Maitland, FL

62 TR4 CT5212LO

75 TR6 CF35914U

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Jun 11 14:12:38 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 16:12:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
In-Reply-To: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
References: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CCD7B993049175-2364-241D9@webmail-m093.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----

From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com




I was bidding on a Triumph on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The car didn't
meet reserve and I wasn't the highest bidder anyway. I have now received an
e-mail, I think from the vendor, suggesting a "second chance offer" for the
car.  The e-mail, which appears to be an ebay generated one but from the
vendor's  email address, states that the vendor is reconsidering my offer and
asks me to  get in touch if I have the funds and am still interested.

I often see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". Not knowing
what a "second chance offer" is all about, I got the impression this might
be  some sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?

==AM==
Check your "My eBay" and see if the message is there as well. If it is and/or
the e-mail sent to you
has anything that specifically ID's you by your eBay ID or similar, chances
are it's legit.

I've gotten a couple of these "second chance offers" and all worked out well.

--Andy Mace


*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?

*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Jun 11 14:27:13 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 14:27:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
In-Reply-To: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
References: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <08F2945A1AEA4046BA4BC22B0BFFF97D@bboffice>

Tim,
Sounds like a scam to me, this guy may not even be the owner.  eBay strongly
discourages the contact of buyers and sellers outside of eBay.  I am sure
that it is for their well-being as well as their clients'.  

I know that eBay offers some types of purchase warranties, you should check
into this, and if so have them re-list the car as a buy-it-now at your
agreed price.  

Or, perhaps there is someone on the list that lives near this car and could
take a look at it for you and help you to make the transaction securely.

PROCEED WITH CAUTION.....

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 1:11 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of

Hi all;
 
I was bidding on a Triumph on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The car didn't
meet reserve and I wasn't the highest bidder anyway. I have now received an
e-mail, I think from the vendor, suggesting a "second chance offer" for the
car.  The e-mail, which appears to be an ebay generated one but from the
vendor's  email address, states that the vendor is reconsidering my offer
and asks me to  get in touch if I have the funds and am still interested.
 
I often see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". Not knowing
what a "second chance offer" is all about, I got the impression this might
be  some sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture
professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa
Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the
Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Jun 11 14:28:15 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 14:28:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb Fuel Line question
In-Reply-To: <1176151880.940690.1276283336175.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <1176151880.940690.1276283336175.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <2E87D341F7394307947F68A659AD7FF6@bboffice>

1/4" on my early SU-6 carbs.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of cfmtr3a at verizon.net
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 1:09 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb Fuel Line question

What is the diameter of the fuel line that goes between the carbs on the
TR3?   5/16" looks too big

Thanks
Carl

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jun 11 14:33:05 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 16:33:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
In-Reply-To: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
References: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D700A7C106F4413F989327D265393026@BobPC>

Second Chance offers are legitimate. As a seller we often have people back 
out after winning the auction, so rather then getting stuck with an unsold 
item, the seller has the ability to hit the second chance button which gives 
the next highest bidder an opportunity to buy the item at their last bid 
price. I've only dealt with small ticket items and had one person buy it on 
the 2nd chance.  Seeing as it's a car we're talking about, you might want to 
do some checking before exchanging any money.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: <KingsCreekTrees at aol.com>
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 3:10 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of

> Hi all;
>
> I was bidding on a Triumph on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The car didn't
> meet reserve and I wasn't the highest bidder anyway. I have now received 
> an
> e-mail, I think from the vendor, suggesting a "second chance offer" for 
> the
> car.  The e-mail, which appears to be an ebay generated one but from the
> vendor's  email address, states that the vendor is reconsidering my offer 
> and
> asks me to  get in touch if I have the funds and am still interested.
>
> I often see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". Not knowing
> what a "second chance offer" is all about, I got the impression this might
> be  some sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
> 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
> Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
> Canada
> Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
> (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/)
>
> Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for
> horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape 
> Association, the
> Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society 
> and
> the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Jun 11 14:36:34 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 15:36:34 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
Message-ID: <6649626.722958.1276288594077.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net>

Tim - did the email have your eBay user name as part of the inquiry?  
If in doubt, go back to the original listing and contact seller via the 'ask a question'.  I think it is still active after the auction has ended.

I'd be skeptical - and obviously you are as well since you asked the question.



Jun 11, 2010 07:53:01 PM, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:

Hi all;

I was bidding on a Triumph on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The car didn't 
meet reserve and I wasn't the highest bidder anyway. I have now received an 
e-mail, I think from the vendor, suggesting a "second chance offer" for the 
car. The e-mail, which appears to be an ebay generated one but from the 
vendor's email address, states that the vendor is reconsidering my offer and 
asks me to get in touch if I have the funds and am still interested.

I often see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". Not knowing 
what a "second chance offer" is all about, I got the impression this might 
be some sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?

Tim 

Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A 1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Jun 11 14:39:00 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 15:39:00 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb Fuel Line question
Message-ID: <28114759.723044.1276288740259.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net>

thank you for the quick response.    I knew it looked to big.
Just curious - about how long is it - I'll need to stop by and get a piece of pipe on the way home tonight.   I am estimating that two feet would be enough.

Thanks
C






Jun 11, 2010 08:28:33 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote:

1/4" on my early SU-6 carbs.

Bill 

From don at napanet.net  Fri Jun 11 14:41:56 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 13:41:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
In-Reply-To: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
References: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20100611212455.D460F24DD8C@mail.napanet.net>

 From my experience, some of the 2nd chance offers are legit, and 
some are scams.  I just got a 2nd chance offer on an early MGB 
roadster that I had bid on.  I sent an email to the seller to find 
out if it was legit.  I haven't heard back yet.

Here's a portion of the email I received.  It doesn't look quite 
right to me as the wording is awkward, and it was sent from a 
different email address than the correspondence I had with the 
seller.  It did not arrive through eBay's message system either which 
is also a bit odd.

Don Scott
TR4A
MGA Mk 2
MGB GT
Misc. Japanese cars

_______________________________________________

2nd chance offer I received today:



Lucky you, Don! The seller has offered you a second chance to buy 
this item. The second time can be a charm.

Message from muffler.bearing:
Hi,

Just wanted to let you know that I am reconsidering your offer of US 
$8,900.00. If still interested to buy it at US $8,900.00 and you 
already have the funds, please let me know asap.

Please kindly reply to this email with your answer!

Thank you!

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140410675715>Excellent 
1966 MGB Roadster w/OD -- total restoration

_______________________________________________


At 12:10 PM 06/11/2010, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:
>Hi all;
>
>I was bidding on a Triumph on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The car didn't
>meet reserve and I wasn't the highest bidder anyway. I have now received an
>e-mail, I think from the vendor, suggesting a "second chance offer" for the
>car.  The e-mail, which appears to be an ebay generated one but from the
>vendor's  email address, states that the vendor is reconsidering my offer and
>asks me to  get in touch if I have the funds and am still interested.
>
>I often see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". Not knowing
>what a "second chance offer" is all about, I got the impression this might
>be  some sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?
>
>Tim
>
>Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
>427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
>Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
>Canada
>Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
>(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/)
>
>Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for
>horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape 
>Association, the
>Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural 
>Society and
>the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don at napanet.net
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 9.0.829 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2931 - Release Date: 
>06/10/10 23:35:00

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Jun 11 15:07:08 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 16:07:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions
Message-ID: <31357269.723900.1276290428526.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net>

165 R 15 is as it was back then.  the aspect would be 75 if the tire store needs it.   175/70/15 would be an equivalent but wider/lower - not sure how it would look.

Chart at http://www.vintagecarconnection.com/vintage_tire_size_conversion_chart.htm 

I believe Cooper; Kumho; Michelin (maybe) and other still carry them.



Jun 11, 2010 08:58:09 PM, trguy at cfl.rr.com wrote:

Anyone know the correct size tires for a 1962 TR4 and a good source to buy? I
believe it is 165 R 15, just not sure of the middle number. Doesn't seem to
be too many for sale anywhere but Coker. Also, anyone know of a source to
"re-stamp" my orig commission plate as it is a bit shabby. I have not been
impressed with laser etching as it doesn't look orig.



Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

Maitland, FL

62 TR4 CT5212LO

75 TR6 CF35914U

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jun 11 15:25:50 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 14:25:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
In-Reply-To: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
References: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <082a01cb09ac$aa972c50$0301a8c0@randall>

> I often see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". 
> Not knowing  
> what a "second chance offer" is all about, I got the 
> impression this might 
> be  some sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?

eBay does offer a "second chance" mechanism, where the seller can agree to
sell to someone who was not high bidder (generally if the high bidder backed
out for some reason).  This costs them less than relisting the item for
another auction.

But when I got a "second chance" offer, it did come from eBay's mail
address, not the seller's.  It sounds like what you got was, at least, an
offer to do business outside of eBay (which is strictly forbidden).  Might
be a legit offer (the seller just trying to avoid paying eBay their fees),
but could just as easily be a scam.

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Jun 11 15:28:05 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 21:28:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
In-Reply-To: <08F2945A1AEA4046BA4BC22B0BFFF97D@bboffice>
Message-ID: <522323877.2966281276291685997.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

"Second Chance Offer" IS part of Ebay's schtick now, I think.  Look it up on their help area.  It could be legit.

BTW, this is how I bought the TR4 ten years ago before is was institutionalized into Ebay.  The winning bidder reneged.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- wbeech at flash.net wrote:

> From: wbeech at flash.net
> To: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 3:27:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
>
> Tim,
> Sounds like a scam to me, this guy may not even be the owner.  eBay
> strongly
> discourages the contact of buyers and sellers outside of eBay.  I am
> sure
> that it is for their well-being as well as their clients'.  
> 
> I know that eBay offers some types of purchase warranties, you should
> check
> into this, and if so have them re-list the car as a buy-it-now at
> your
> agreed price.  
> 
> Or, perhaps there is someone on the list that lives near this car and
> could
> take a look at it for you and help you to make the transaction
> securely.
> 
> PROCEED WITH CAUTION.....
> 
> Bill
> 
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is
> called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Jun 11 15:29:53 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 21:29:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions
In-Reply-To: <95D2929CC5E142768D110A0CC18D59E8@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <2099976156.2966851276291793034.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

There is no middle number.  When there is no middle number the aspect ratio is assumed to be 80 or so.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:

> From: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 2:59:53 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions
>
> Anyone know the correct size tires for a 1962 TR4 and a good source to
> buy? I
> believe it is 165 R 15, just not sure of the middle  number.   Doesn't
> seem to
> be too many for sale anywhere but Coker.  Also, anyone know of a
> source to
> "re-stamp" my orig commission plate as it is a bit shabby. I have not
> been
> impressed with laser etching as it doesn't look orig.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Jim Henningsen
> 
> Maitland, FL
> 
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 
> 75 TR6 CF35914U
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jun 11 15:40:42 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 14:40:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb Fuel Line question
In-Reply-To: <28114759.723044.1276288740259.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <28114759.723044.1276288740259.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <082f01cb09ae$be32c970$0301a8c0@randall>

>  I am 
> estimating that two feet would be enough.

Seems short to me, but I didn't try to measure one.  It's cheap enough, I'd
get 4 feet and cut it down.

Randall

From don at napanet.net  Fri Jun 11 15:59:16 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 14:59:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
Message-ID: <20100611224215.E7E5024DBDB@mail.napanet.net>

 From my experience, some of the 2nd chance offers are legit, and 
some are scams.  I just got a 2nd chance offer on an early MGB 
roadster that I had bid on.  I sent an email to the seller to find 
out if it was legit.  I haven't heard back yet.

Here's a portion of the email I received.  It doesn't look quite 
right to me as the wording is awkward, and it was sent from a 
different email address than the correspondence I had with the 
seller.  It did not arrive through eBay's message system either which 
is also a bit odd.

Don Scott
TR4A
MGA Mk 2
MGB GT
Misc. Japanese cars

_______________________________________________

2nd chance offer I received today:



Lucky you, Don! The seller has offered you a second chance to buy 
this item. The second time can be a charm.

Message from muffler.bearing:
Hi,

Just wanted to let you know that I am reconsidering your offer of US 
$8,900.00. If still interested to buy it at US $8,900.00 and you 
already have the funds, please let me know asap.

Please kindly reply to this email with your answer!

Thank you!

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140410675715>Excellent 
1966 MGB Roadster w/OD -- total restoration

_______________________________________________


At 12:10 PM 06/11/2010, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:
>Hi all;
>
>I was bidding on a Triumph on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The car didn't
>meet reserve and I wasn't the highest bidder anyway. I have now received an
>e-mail, I think from the vendor, suggesting a "second chance offer" for the
>car.  The e-mail, which appears to be an ebay generated one but from the
>vendor's  email address, states that the vendor is reconsidering my offer and
>asks me to  get in touch if I have the funds and am still interested.
>
>I often see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". Not knowing
>what a "second chance offer" is all about, I got the impression this might
>be  some sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?
>
>Tim
>
>Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
>427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
>Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
>Canada
>Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
>(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/)
>
>Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for
>horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape 
>Association, the
>Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural 
>Society and
>the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario

From tcheat2002 at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 11 16:05:39 2010
From: tcheat2002 at yahoo.com (Tim Cheatham)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 15:05:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
Message-ID: <121517.17226.qm@web30608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

eBay does do second chance offers. It is an option available to  
sellers automatically at the close of an auction.  If the car is close  
by you, it might be worth a look.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 11, 2010, at 3:12 PM, Andrew Mace <zoboherald at aol.com> wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com
>
>
>
>
> I was bidding on a Triumph on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The car  
> didn't
> meet reserve and I wasn't the highest bidder anyway. I have now  
> received an
> e-mail, I think from the vendor, suggesting a "second chance offer"  
> for the
> car.  The e-mail, which appears to be an ebay generated one but from  
> the
> vendor's  email address, states that the vendor is reconsidering my  
> offer and
> asks me to  get in touch if I have the funds and am still interested.
>
> I often see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". Not  
> knowing
> what a "second chance offer" is all about, I got the impression this  
> might
> be  some sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?
>
> ==AM==
> Check your "My eBay" and see if the message is there as well. If it  
> is and/or
> the e-mail sent to you
> has anything that specifically ID's you by your eBay ID or similar,  
> chances
> are it's legit.
>
> I've gotten a couple of these "second chance offers" and all worked  
> out well.
>
> --Andy Mace
>
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
>
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er,  
> Triumph
> Herald engine with wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
>
> Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
> Register: http://www.vtr.org
>
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and  
> Triumph Herald
> Database: http://triumph-herald.us
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tcheat2002 at yahoo.com

From gtwincams at gmail.com  Fri Jun 11 16:40:58 2010
From: gtwincams at gmail.com (Greg Tatarian)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 15:40:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
In-Reply-To: <522323877.2966281276291685997.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <522323877.2966281276291685997.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C12BB7A.8090407@gmail.com>

Second chance offers have been available on eBay for years, but 
fraudulent offers are what caused eBay to partially obscure user names 
from anyone but the seller of the item about a year ago. The text Don 
received sounds a bit odd, but does sound a bit like the language used 
when I made a second chance offer to a buyer of a clutch disk. When in 
doubt, contact the seller using the original ID.
Cheers,
Greg Tatarian
1971 Lotus Elan
1974 Triumph TR6
eBay ID: gregsbrititalia


On 6/11/2010 2:28 PM, pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> "Second Chance Offer" IS part of Ebay's schtick now, I think.  Look it up on their help area.  It could be legit.

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Fri Jun 11 16:54:45 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 18:54:45 EDT
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of THANKS EVERYONE!
Message-ID: <1e704.31c4d06f.394418b5@aol.com>

Hi everyone;
 
Thanks for all the great advice. The e-mail I received did indeed use my  
ebay userid, but there were no messages in this regard in "my ebay".  
Accordingly, I have taken the advice of the listers and sent a message to the  
vendor through ebay. We'll see what happens.
 
In the meantime, does anyone live near Stamford, CT and willing to have a  
look at a 1958 Peerless GT (you know, the one with the TR3 mechanicals) for 
me,  if this isn't a scam? 
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jun 11 18:08:21 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 17:08:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions
In-Reply-To: <2099976156.2966851276291793034.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <95D2929CC5E142768D110A0CC18D59E8@TRGUY>
	<2099976156.2966851276291793034.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimVGZ2ruNammAGnZgZil5_l_vTr1dQ1feRoLHid@mail.gmail.com>

>> Anyone know the correct size tires for a 1962 TR4 and a good source to
>> buy?

The last couple of sets I got came from these guys --

http://www.tires-easy.com/start.html

As already noted, you're probably looking for 165/80 15 for something
similar to original.

>> Also, anyone know of a  source to "re-stamp" my orig commission plate...

I stamped my own using the 1/8" set from Harbor Freight and a simple
jig made from a 2x4:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/commission-stamp.JPG

Looked pretty good except for the '3' which differs slightly from the
original font.

Geo

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 11 18:39:09 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 17:39:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
In-Reply-To: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
References: <4d567.5170e558.3943e43d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <612916.94626.qm@web120007.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Tim
i have used second chance offer with ebay. both as a seller and a buyer.
but as always if its a lot of money, proceed cautiously. don't give out bank
account etc and only pay with paypal.
be safe
Frank Fisher
________________________________
From: "KingsCreekTrees at aol.com"
<KingsCreekTrees at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, June 11, 2010
12:10:53 PM
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of

Hi all;

I was
bidding on a Triumph on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The car didn't  
meet
reserve and I wasn't the highest bidder anyway. I have now received an 
e-mail, I think from the vendor, suggesting a "second chance offer" for the
car.  The e-mail, which appears to be an ebay generated one but from the
vendor's  email address, states that the vendor is reconsidering my offer and
asks me to  get in touch if I have the funds and am still interested.

I often
see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". Not knowing  
what a
"second chance offer" is all about, I got the impression this might 
be  some
sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?

Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees
and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the
Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery
and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton
Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Jun 11 21:21:27 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 03:21:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
In-Reply-To: <20100611212455.D460F24DD8C@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <481235777.3063521276312887338.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If it is not legit, and the person is not the seller, how did he know who you are and how much you bid?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- "don" <don at napanet.net> wrote:

> From: "don" <don at napanet.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 3:41:56 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
>
> From my experience, some of the 2nd chance offers are legit, and 
> some are scams.  I just got a 2nd chance offer on an early MGB 
> roadster that I had bid on.  I sent an email to the seller to find 
> out if it was legit.  I haven't heard back yet.
> 
> Here's a portion of the email I received.  It doesn't look quite 
> right to me as the wording is awkward, and it was sent from a 
> different email address than the correspondence I had with the 
> seller.  It did not arrive through eBay's message system either which
> 
> is also a bit odd.
> 
> Don Scott
> TR4A
> MGA Mk 2
> MGB GT
> Misc. Japanese cars
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 2nd chance offer I received today:
> 
> 
> 
> Lucky you, Don! The seller has offered you a second chance to buy 
> this item. The second time can be a charm.
> 
> Message from muffler.bearing:
> Hi,
> 
> Just wanted to let you know that I am reconsidering your offer of US 
> $8,900.00. If still interested to buy it at US $8,900.00 and you 
> already have the funds, please let me know asap.
> 
> Please kindly reply to this email with your answer!
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140410675715>Excellent
> 
> 1966 MGB Roadster w/OD -- total restoration
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 
> At 12:10 PM 06/11/2010, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:
> >Hi all;
> >
> >I was bidding on a Triumph on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The car
> didn't
> >meet reserve and I wasn't the highest bidder anyway. I have now
> received an
> >e-mail, I think from the vendor, suggesting a "second chance offer"
> for the
> >car.  The e-mail, which appears to be an ebay generated one but from
> the
> >vendor's  email address, states that the vendor is reconsidering my
> offer and
> >asks me to  get in touch if I have the funds and am still
> interested.
> >
> >I often see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". Not
> knowing
> >what a "second chance offer" is all about, I got the impression this
> might
> >be  some sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?
> >
> >Tim
> >
> >Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
> >427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
> >Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
> >Canada
> >Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
> >(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/)
> >
> >Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for
> >horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape 
> >Association, the
> >Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural 
> >Society and
> >the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Triumphs at autox.team.net
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don at napanet.net
> >
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >Version: 9.0.829 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2931 - Release Date: 
> >06/10/10 23:35:00
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Jun 11 22:13:01 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 00:13:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?ebay_question=3A_off_topic=2C_sort-of?=
Message-ID: <20100612041151.A880218764D@autox.team.net>

It happens, don't know how. Many learn the hard way.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: pethier at comcast.net
Date: Fri, Jun 11, 2010 23:21
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
To: "don" <don at napanet.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>


If it is not legit, and the person is not the seller, how did he know who you are and how much you bid?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- "don" <don at napanet.net> wrote:

> From: "don" <don at napanet.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 3:41:56 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
>
> From my experience, some of the 2nd chance offers are legit, and 
> some are scams.  I just got a 2nd chance offer on an early MGB 
> roadster that I had bid on.  I sent an email to the seller to find 
> out if it was legit.  I haven't heard back yet.
> 
> Here's a portion of the email I received.  It doesn't look quite 
> right to me as the wording is awkward, and it was sent from a 
> different email address than the correspondence I had with the 
> seller.  It did not arrive through eBay's message system either which
> 
> is also a bit odd.
> 
> Don Scott
> TR4A
> MGA Mk 2
> MGB GT
> Misc. Japanese cars
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 2nd chance offer I received today:
> 
> 
> 
> Lucky you, Don! The seller has offered you a second chance to buy 
> this item. The second time can be a charm.
> 
> Message from muffler.bearing:
> Hi,
> 
> Just wanted to let you know that I am reconsidering your offer of US 
> $8,900.00. If still interested to buy it at US $8,900.00 and you 
> already have the funds, please let me know asap.
> 
> Please kindly reply to this email with your answer!
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140410675715>Excellent
> 
> 1966 MGB Roadster w/OD -- total restoration
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 
> At 12:10 PM 06/11/2010, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:
> >Hi all;

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sat Jun 12 07:45:16 2010
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 08:45:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wish Fred Thomas a happy birthday
Message-ID: <1A01D885C3254CE199E36F500662C2F1@0817C93C637E473>

Today is "FT"'s birthday.  Let's surprise him and flood his in box wish
birthday wishes.

Fred E Thomas
E-mail Address(es):
  frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
Personal Information:
  Address:
    211 Commander Cover
    Stafford VA 22554
  Phone: 540-659-1409
  Fax: 866-231-7257-4729

Ken Gano

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat Jun 12 08:22:24 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 10:22:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions
Message-ID: <90C1FCE094D64FE5AD5C22D270EEBC8A@TRGUY>

Listers - thanks for the info on the tire size for my TR4 and some good
sources to purchase.  Also, as an FYI, the source recommended to stamp an
exact replacement of my origi 62 TR4 commission plate stated he is no longer
doing this due to fed law concerns.  He did recommend using the 1/8" Harbor
Freight steel stamp set.

I'm just curious, is it against the law to have an exact copy of your original
commission plate made during a restoration?  I thought restorers were doing
this to make the restoration as perfect as possble. I also understand that the
process can be misused to create higher value cars (e.g., creating a hemi cuda
from a 318 cuda).

Jim Henningsen
Mailtand, FL

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 12 08:48:11 2010
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 07:48:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20035.1276350265.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.20035.1276350265.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <98214.62908.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Ebay's decision to obscure user names has facilitated shill bidding.  Ebay
says they watch for it, but I do not trust them.

I wish another online
auction site would take hold.  Ebay is getting very unpleasant to do business
with.

Chad in Tulsa




Message: 5
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 15:40:58 -0700
From: Greg Tatarian <gtwincams at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] ebay question: off
topic, sort-of
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID:
<4C12BB7A.8090407 at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1;
format=flowed

Second chance offers have been available on eBay for years, but
fraudulent offers are what caused eBay to partially obscure user names 
from
anyone but the seller of the item about a year ago. The text Don 
received
sounds a bit odd, but does sound a bit like the language used 
when I made a
second chance offer to a buyer of a clutch disk. When in 
doubt, contact the
seller using the original ID.
Cheers,
Greg Tatarian
1971 Lotus Elan
1974
Triumph TR6
eBay ID: gregsbrititalia

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Jun 12 09:27:14 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 08:27:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions
In-Reply-To: <90C1FCE094D64FE5AD5C22D270EEBC8A@TRGUY>
References: <90C1FCE094D64FE5AD5C22D270EEBC8A@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <8F1F86C1E658421E919AFF11FC054DB9@joepentiumnew>

I think the legal fears are that someone will be able to change the
commission number to hide the fact that the vehicle was stolen.

As far as making a Hemi Cuda out of a regular Barracuda, while you might be
able to fake a VIN number to make it appear the vehicle is real, the factory
keeps records of all the ones that were produced and the addition or change
of codes within the VIN will nor bear out under a numbers check.

The same applies to someone who makes a Sunbeam Tiger out of an Alpine.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 7:22 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions

Listers - thanks for the info on the tire size for my TR4 and some good
sources to purchase.  Also, as an FYI, the source recommended to stamp an
exact replacement of my origi 62 TR4 commission plate stated he is no longer
doing this due to fed law concerns.  He did recommend using the 1/8" Harbor
Freight steel stamp set.

I'm just curious, is it against the law to have an exact copy of your
original
commission plate made during a restoration?  I thought restorers were doing
this to make the restoration as perfect as possble. I also understand that
the
process can be misused to create higher value cars (e.g., creating a hemi
cuda
from a 318 cuda).

Jim Henningsen
Mailtand, FL

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Jun 12 09:35:57 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 08:35:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wish Fred Thomas a happy birthday
In-Reply-To: <1A01D885C3254CE199E36F500662C2F1@0817C93C637E473>
References: <1A01D885C3254CE199E36F500662C2F1@0817C93C637E473>
Message-ID: <a06240802c83959a41554@[192.168.2.4]>

Done, Always remember Fred's Birthday, he is so much older than I ... 
a whole two days ...
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jun 12 10:44:16 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 09:44:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions
In-Reply-To: <8F1F86C1E658421E919AFF11FC054DB9@joepentiumnew>
References: <90C1FCE094D64FE5AD5C22D270EEBC8A@TRGUY>
	<8F1F86C1E658421E919AFF11FC054DB9@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <00ae01cb0a4e$7fbada70$0301a8c0@randall>

> As far as making a Hemi Cuda out of a regular Barracuda, 
> while you might be
> able to fake a VIN number to make it appear the vehicle is 
> real, the factory
> keeps records of all the ones that were produced and the 
> addition or change
> of codes within the VIN will nor bear out under a numbers check.

Unless of course you duplicate the numbers of a car that was wrecked or
destroyed.  The factory doesn't track those.

And while the factory may have tracked which Barracudas had hemis; I
understand GM did not keep track of which 57-65 Corvettes had fuel
injection.  With the result that there are more of them on the road today
than the factory built!

Randall

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Jun 12 10:44:14 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 12:44:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Parts List
Message-ID: <630B7F356E6F48769E6A06E89A801012@Edscomputer>

List,

Is there a TR3 factory parts list available, either printed or on the 'net?

Ed Woods

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jun 12 11:55:22 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 11:55:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] Wish Fred Thomas a happy birthday
In-Reply-To: <a06240802c83959a41554@[192.168.2.4]>
References: <1A01D885C3254CE199E36F500662C2F1@0817C93C637E473>
	<a06240802c83959a41554@[192.168.2.4]>
Message-ID: <9E26A50C-C567-49CB-8501-EF5B563A0C97@flash.net>

Happy Birthday Fred!!


Mobile Bill

On Jun 12, 2010, at 9:35 AM, Bill <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Done, Always remember Fred's Birthday, he is so much older than  
> I ... a whole two days ...
> -- 
> "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people  
> undertake it." - Henry Ford
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3
> "Casper"
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sat Jun 12 12:28:34 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 14:28:34 EDT
Subject: [TR] ebay 2nd chance conclusion
Message-ID: <399ca.74c13a76.39452bd2@aol.com>

Hi everyone;
 
Turned out it was a scam. I've heard back from the actual vendor of the  
car, who says that his ebay account was "compromised" and that ebay is aware 
of  it.
 
Once again, another case of "if it sounds too good to be true, it probably  
is".
 
Thanks for everyone's input.
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat Jun 12 13:12:11 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 15:12:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4_Tire_Size_and_Commission_Plate_Questions?=
Message-ID: <20100612191102.CD05818763E@autox.team.net>

I doubt it since there is no fraud involved. The guy is another victim of lawyer-fear. 


Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
Date: Sat, Jun 12, 2010 10:22
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Listers - thanks for the info on the tire size for my TR4 and some good
sources to purchase.  Also, as an FYI, the source recommended to stamp an
exact replacement of my origi 62 TR4 commission plate stated he is no longer
doing this due to fed law concerns.  He did recommend using the 1/8" Harbor
Freight steel stamp set.

I'm just curious, is it against the law to have an exact copy of your original
commission plate made during a restoration?  I thought restorers were doing
this to make the restoration as perfect as possble. I also understand that the
process can be misused to create higher value cars (e.g., creating a hemi cuda
from a 318 cuda).

Jim Henningsen
Mailtand, FL

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jun 12 13:31:57 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 12:31:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Parts List
In-Reply-To: <630B7F356E6F48769E6A06E89A801012@Edscomputer>
References: <630B7F356E6F48769E6A06E89A801012@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <00dc01cb0a65$ec18bd10$0301a8c0@randall>

> Is there a TR3 factory parts list available, either printed 
> or on the 'net?

Printed versions are available from TRF, probably other vendors as well.

Here's one on the net:
http://tinyurl.com/37voevm

Randall

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat Jun 12 14:42:00 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 16:42:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Tr_rubbers?=
Message-ID: <20100612204051.AFEA818763E@autox.team.net>

My 61 tr4 has an oblong rubber plug under the spare tire tie down loop.  There is another plug, round in shape, directly ahead of it in the bottom front of the trunk floor. Moss nor TRF seems to have these plugs.
Any ideas where I can get them??

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Jun 12 16:40:18 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 15:40:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions
In-Reply-To: <90C1FCE094D64FE5AD5C22D270EEBC8A@TRGUY>
References: <90C1FCE094D64FE5AD5C22D270EEBC8A@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinMMvJLZzg52NYvfHDTyC7wiCmHPyR2NYfN2W0o@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/12/10, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> I'm just curious, is it against the law to have an exact copy of your
> original commission plate made during a restoration?

I did this but retained the old plate with the other records.  In the
case of LHD TR4s the plate was located right below the master
cylinders -- pretty common that about all that was left of the
original plate were the stamped codes -- no paint.

Geo

From davidt at opentext.com  Sat Jun 12 16:56:40 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 18:56:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Slideshow or rescue
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0537@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jun 12 17:45:13 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 16:45:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Size and Commission Plate Questions
In-Reply-To: <90C1FCE094D64FE5AD5C22D270EEBC8A@TRGUY>
References: <90C1FCE094D64FE5AD5C22D270EEBC8A@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <011201cb0a89$4def8050$0301a8c0@randall>

> I'm just curious, is it against the law to have an exact copy 
> of your original
> commission plate made during a restoration?  

I think the answer is "Not necessarily".  States may have their own laws,
but the federal law allows the owner of the vehicle or someone authorized by
the owner of the vehicle to restore or replace the plate.
http://law.onecle.com/uscode/18/511.html

I'm no lawyer, but it seems to me that means the person offering the service
could be criminally liable if it turns out that he was not working for the
owner of the car.  ISTR there was a case in the news some years ago, about
some men that were convicted of simply possessing and selling the special
rosette rivets used on later American cars.  They weren't actually involved
in car theft (as I recall), but did time just for selling the rivets.

Randall

From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Sat Jun 12 17:46:35 2010
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 18:46:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wish Fred Thomas a happy birthday
Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB82D669@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>

Ditto

Happy birthday Fred. Will I see you at TSP this year? Hope so!


Steve Thornton


----- Original Message -----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>
To: Bill <anabil007 at comcast.net>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat Jun 12 12:55:22 2010
Subject: Re: [TR] Wish Fred Thomas a happy birthday

Happy Birthday Fred!!


Mobile Bill

On Jun 12, 2010, at 9:35 AM, Bill <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Done, Always remember Fred's Birthday, he is so much older than  
> I ... a whole two days ...
> -- 
> "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people  
> undertake it." - Henry Ford
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3
> "Casper"
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com

From davidt at opentext.com  Sat Jun 12 19:08:07 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 21:08:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wish Fred Thomas a happy birthday
References: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB82D669@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0538@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>


From davidt at opentext.com  Sat Jun 12 19:13:36 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 21:13:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>


From davidt at opentext.com  Sat Jun 12 21:56:04 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 23:56:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Try this again...

Evening all

As I get back into the '3a, I think an alternator conversion is needed,
while the jenny was cool for looks, it simply didn't provide the power
to needed for normal usage and didn't cycle the battery enough.  Is
there webpage that is recent on installing a GM/Delco three wire
alternator.  Also, is it advisable to go the thin belt conversion at the
same time?  Where can I get replacement pulleys then for the water pump
and crank?

thanks
David Templeton
'59 TR3a
'74 Spitsix

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat Jun 12 22:46:09 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 00:46:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?=273a_Alternator_conversion=2E=2E=2E?=
Message-ID: <20100613044501.0D58518763E@autox.team.net>

Was this supposed to have an attachment?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
Date: Sat, Jun 12, 2010 21:13
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun Jun 13 05:55:27 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 07:55:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fred Thomas
Message-ID: <E8CE376232E04C9C9264C340845FCD79@AlexPC>

Happy Birthday Fred. Good reason to take it again with the top down and feel
the wind in your hair (?).

Alex Manzo
59 TR3

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Jun 13 06:56:37 2010
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 08:56:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw: Now I'm confused
Message-ID: <B98F728749A64F209FD3F37D63F3B8FB@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
A friend of mine (who is located several states to my right so I can't see for
myself) is in the middle or rebuilding a TR6 motor and ran into a problem with
the rocker arm assemblies from a rebuilder in northern California. At least
two of them had the oil holes rotated 90 degrees so there would have not been
any oil going to the rocker arms! His final problem is what I am writing to
you guys about and that is described below. Can anybody help him out?
Interestingly, the say he found it was he had received two other rocker arm
assemblies for non Triumph engines and those were not assembled correctly
either. Lucky for him, he had checked them before installation and discovered
the problem. However, on the TR6 shaft, as he explains below, the assembly is
confusing.
Feel free to email him directly if you want. His name is Gary Fitzgerald and
his email is listed above.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 Triumph TR4A IRS
http://home..fuse.net/davestr4a

Subject: Now I'm confused


      Help me out Dave,
            I just removed the assemble on the TR6. The rockers have 2 holes
about 90 degrees apart. The center shaft also has 2 holes about 90 degrees
apart. The only problem is that the mounting pedestal has a lock screw that
can only go one way. If I line up the oil holes, the mounting screw won't lone
up??? Something isn't right. I'm not getting oil with the set up the way it is
now, but can change it to line up the holes.

      I've tried to find out about proper aliening the holes on line, but no
one seems to insist the holes be in line. Could I be wrong and if so why don't
I get any oil through the rockers when the engine is running with the holes
not in line?

      HELP

      Gary

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 13 08:55:40 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 14:55:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wish Fred Thomas a happy birthday
Message-ID: <BAY110-W37924CC819B36125AE2CFBE5DB0@phx.gbl>

Happy Birthday Fred!

Best regards,
Tom





_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From wfkrebs at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 13 10:36:40 2010
From: wfkrebs at yahoo.com (Bill Krebs)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 09:36:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 scavenger hunt continues...
Message-ID: <725315.26564.qm@web114415.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

In trying to fit the front bumper to my TR3 it has become apparent that I have
a TR4 bumper.  Picked it up in a salvage yard 10+ yrs ago and had it triple
chromed.  Now I'm in need of a late model (TS70048L) TR3 bumper and have a TR4
bumper for sale.  Contact me off list if you can help or need a nice TR4
bumper.  Bill Krebs 

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Jun 13 11:28:40 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 17:28:40 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Fw: Now I'm confused
In-Reply-To: <B98F728749A64F209FD3F37D63F3B8FB@DaveLaptop>
References: <B98F728749A64F209FD3F37D63F3B8FB@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <190815.25629.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Seems to me my feelings of some years back are being confirmed. There's a (an
emerging?) market for Standard-Triumph rocker shafts that are properly
machined with the lube holes in the right places and, more importantly,
heat-treated to the correct level of hardness which was 58 Rockwell. Haven't
encountered any in the UK with mis-aligned holes but I bought several shafts
over the years from 1998 onwards that had about as much hardness as a dowel of
pine. Then I found a UK supplier offering alternatives at 16 Rockwell and one
of those lasted four years - the others lasted weeks.

Jonmac

PS I'm sure
many can list other 'desiderata' items that actually *do* the job they're
supposed to do - but so often don't.




________________________________
From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: GARY
FITZGERALD <glfmg2 at verizon.net>
Sent: Sun, 13 June, 2010 13:56:37
Subject:
[TR] Fw: Now I'm confused

Hi List,
A friend of mine (who is located several
states to my right so I can't see for
myself) is in the middle or rebuilding a
TR6 motor and ran into a problem with
the rocker arm assemblies from a
rebuilder in northern California. At least
two of them had the oil holes
rotated 90 degrees so there would have not been
any oil going to the rocker
arms! His final problem is what I am writing to
you guys about and that is
described below. Can anybody help him out?
Interestingly, the say he found it
was he had received two other rocker arm
assemblies for non Triumph engines
and those were not assembled correctly
either. Lucky for him, he had checked
them before installation and discovered
the problem. However, on the TR6
shaft, as he explains below, the assembly is
confusing.
Feel free to email him
directly if you want. His name is Gary Fitzgerald and
his email is listed
above.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 Triumph TR4A IRS
http://home..fuse.net/davestr4a

Subject: Now I'm confused


      Help me out
Dave,
            I just removed the assemble on the TR6. The rockers have 2
holes
about 90 degrees apart. The center shaft also has 2 holes about 90
degrees
apart. The only problem is that the mounting pedestal has a lock screw
that
can only go one way. If I line up the oil holes, the mounting screw won't
lone
up??? Something isn't right. I'm not getting oil with the set up the way
it is
now, but can change it to line up the holes.

      I've tried to find
out about proper aliening the holes on line, but no
one seems to insist the
holes be in line. Could I be wrong and if so why don't
I get any oil through
the rockers when the engine is running with the holes
not in line?

      HELP
      Gary

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jun 13 13:21:56 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 12:21:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fw: Now I'm confused
In-Reply-To: <190815.25629.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <B98F728749A64F209FD3F37D63F3B8FB@DaveLaptop>
	<190815.25629.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <028201cb0b2d$b0874500$0301a8c0@randall>

> Seems to me my feelings of some years back are being 
> confirmed. There's a (an
> emerging?) market for Standard-Triumph rocker shafts that are properly
> machined with the lube holes in the right places and, more 
> importantly,
> heat-treated to the correct level of hardness which was 58 
> Rockwell. 

Well, I have a rocker shaft in my TR3 likely from the same rebuilder that
Gary got his from.  I did not have it tested for hardness, but a file just
skipped over the surface so I think it's hard enough.  I've forgotten
offhand just how long it ran every day in my TR3A, maybe only 5 or 6 years,
but it lasted longer than the head I originally put it on, and was in good
enough condition that I moved it to the 'new' TR3 rather than pulling a
spare (from the same source) off the shelf.

The oil holes are not only in the same location as original (opposite the
weep holes in the rockers), but also have the tiny relief ground in the
shaft to distribute the oil sideways through the rocker bushing (as
original).

They did put one of the rockers on wrong (easily corrected), and the shaft
was just the least little bit too long (making it difficult to install one
end cap), but overall I am very pleased with quality, service and price (a
rare combination).  I only wish that all our parts could be so good.

Just for comparison, I fitted a "rebuilt" alternator to the wife's Toyota a
few years ago; which had to be replaced 5 times in the following 6 months!
Two different shops and myself could not find anything else wrong; and the
last time I just unbolted the old one and bolted on the new one.  Since it
is now 2 years old and still going, I have to think the first 4 were
defective.

Randall

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Sun Jun 13 13:30:23 2010
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 14:30:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] A milestone
Message-ID: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C7884A55FE87@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>

This was a pleasant morning. Driving in the pretty countryside south of West Chester, PA with friends from Delaware Valley Triumphs. My 1963 (built 1962) TR4 CT14455L (O) clocked 100,000 miles today.

Blue skies, old stone cottages that are identical to traditional farm houses in Wales, pretty horse farms and great twisty roads made for a fun spin and a ride appropriate for starting over the odometer 48 years after it first began to turn.

In three and a half years we have traveled 16,000 miles together. I am pleased with that as I have a busy job that requires frequent trips abroad, hindering opportunities to drive. 

I hope there are many more miles in the old girl, and me.

Cheers all,

Brian 
Valley Forge, PA

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sun Jun 13 14:34:00 2010
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 16:34:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] A milestone
In-Reply-To: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C7884A55FE87@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
References: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C7884A55FE87@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
Message-ID: <4C1540B8.4000906@frontiernet.net>

100,000 miles in a single day? How could you possibly have seen any of 
the sights at that speed? :-)

George Richardson



Brian Jones wrote:
> This was a pleasant morning. Driving in the pretty countryside south of West Chester, PA with friends from Delaware Valley Triumphs. My 1963 (built 1962) TR4 CT14455L (O) clocked 100,000 miles today.
>
>
>
>   


__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4627 (20091121) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Jun 13 15:28:41 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 14:28:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Thanks Randall
Message-ID: <343768.45960.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hey Randall,     Thanks for posting the Triumph documentation online. That's
cool.
      -Bill in Tehachapi

From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Parts List
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <00dc01cb0a65$ec18bd10$0301a8c0 at randall>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> Is there a TR3 factory parts list available, either printed 
> or on the 'net?

Printed versions are available from TRF, probably other vendors as well.

Here's one on the net:
http://tinyurl.com/37voevm

Randall

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sun Jun 13 16:57:24 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 18:57:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com>

 Davd, were/are you running lots and lots of power-robbing accessories? enough
Lucas Flamethrowers to win the Alpine Rallye? Killer stereo?

I drive my Lucas C40 generator-equipped Herald in just about all kinds of
weather (usually excepting winter) -- which means I often have radio, heater
blower, lights, wipers, etc., all going -- and I have no problems with the
generator keeping that big old Group 24 battery charged.

Maybe your generator just needs refreshing or rebuilding? (Disclaimer: I did
have my original generator rebuilt about six years ago, and it's been fine
ever since!)



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>

As I get back into the '3a, I think an alternator conversion is needed,

while the jenny was cool for looks, it simply didn't provide the power

to needed for normal usage and didn't cycle the battery enough.

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Sun Jun 13 17:10:23 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 16:10:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Teflon washers in SU Carbs
Message-ID: <C41E0692-8283-4AD6-8626-624F75F83CEA@roadrunner.com>

Re: 1961 TR3a with S U, type H6 carbs.
I heard during a TR gathering, that there are teflon washers available  
in lieu of the old cork or neoprene cup washers that seal the jet. It  
seems that the  leaky carbs with the consequential gas (sorry, petrol)  
smelly garages and sometimes houses is quite a common complaint. I  
have tried soaking the cork washers in oil as long as 3 days, but it  
helped only temporarily; the neoprene washers helped but made the  
choke hard to operate. Could not find anything in the Moss or Victoria  
catalogs or on line, other than that they were standard on the later  
types and probably not the same.
Has anyone ever tried these and with what results?

Thanks,

Hans deFer

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sun Jun 13 18:43:12 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 20:43:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis, please!
Message-ID: <4878a.3a6aa4db.3946d520@aol.com>

Hi all; Now I know none of you can see my car from where you are, so I  
appreciate this is going to be difficult. I have an electrical problem that I'd 
 like some guidance with, if it's possible. I'm usually pretty good with 
things  mechanical, but when it comes to electrics I'm a complete idiot. I can 
handle  changing a set of points and some minor stuff, but that's about it.
 
Here goes: TR3A TS22930LO, built October '57. Today I was cranking the  
engine to start it, when suddenly the ignition light went off, the engine  
stopped cranking and the electrically-driven gauges went to zero. I turned off  
the ignition, turned it on again and the ignition light was just about 
glowing.  No chance of the engine turning over/cranking, though. With the 
ignition off, I  turned on the sidelights/parking lights. They were just about 
glowing, but very  dimly. I checked battery connections: OK. I checked 
connections at the starter  solenoid (not sure why): OK. I did notice the solenoid 
mounting was loose, so I  took it off, completely re-secured the solenoid, 
including scraping paint and  cleaning clips to ensure a good ground, but that 
wasn't the problem. I re-did  the battery ground connection at the engine 
(but I've just realised I should've  re-done the engine ground strap 
connections; I'll do that tonight). Also, I  haven't checked fuses yet, but I'll do 
that too. I've never heard of a battery  suddenly failing to create this 
symptom, but I'll swap the battery off our '65  Volvo PV544, just to make sure.
 
I'm about to go back out to the workshop to do some more things to it, but  
I thought I'd send this email now because with my (in)capabilities, I'm  
sure I won't have fixed it by the time I come back in! I plan to go to the  
vintage racing festival at Mosport with the car on Thursday, so I'm a bit  
anxious to get this sorted.
 
Thanks in advance, all.
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jun 13 18:56:42 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 17:56:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Teflon washers in SU Carbs
In-Reply-To: <C41E0692-8283-4AD6-8626-624F75F83CEA@roadrunner.com>
References: <C41E0692-8283-4AD6-8626-624F75F83CEA@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <031601cb0b5c$74963950$0301a8c0@randall>

> I heard during a TR gathering, that there are teflon washers 
> available  
> in lieu of the old cork or neoprene cup washers that seal the 
> jet. 

Hmm, interesting thought.  I've been happy with the nitrile rubber ones that
Moss sells, but PTFE (aka Teflon) might let the choke work a bit easier.  

The Moss seals are standard O-rings (sorry, don't have the size offhand), so
it should be easy enough to source PTFE O-rings from a supplier like MMC.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=7irabv

However, PTFE is much harder than the nitrile rubber, so I'm not convinced
they would seal as well.  Viton or fluorosilicone might be a better choice.

Randall

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Jun 13 19:06:43 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 19:06:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] A milestone
In-Reply-To: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C7884A55FE87@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
References: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C7884A55FE87@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>
Message-ID: <4C1580A3.6080205@bradakis.com>

> Blue skies, old stone cottages that are identical to traditional farm houses in Wales,
>    

Nice.  Wish I had a running Triumph, especially since our big British Field
Day is coming up next weekend.  So it goes.

But a number of years ago my wife and I visited England and spent some
time with friends in Wales.  They lived in an old farmhouse in a small town.
Their postal address had no number or street name, it was simply

Bob and Vera Blah Blah
Upper House
Blah Blah, Wales

I would love to go back again, a beautiful place.  Now that
I have a job travel may once again be possible.  The
pay is pretty pathetic, but if we're frugal...

Anyway, congratulations on a fine day's drive.  I am envious.

mjb.

From davidt at opentext.com  Sun Jun 13 19:35:27 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 21:35:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A053A@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>


From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sun Jun 13 20:29:09 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 22:29:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
Message-ID: <4b5c1.7307ae38.3946edf5@aol.com>

Me again, unfortunately.
 
Reference my earlier post of no ignition light with key in the "on"  
position: Fuses are OK, checked some other connections, could not find the body  
to engine ground strap (there must be one, right?). If this could be the  
problem, can anyone tell me where it is? I was under and over the car, but 
don't  see it.
 
I suddenly remembered that I have a multimeter (not sure why; I can't  
really use it!). Anyway, the battery has 12V. I changed it for the one out of  
our old Volvo, which also had about 12V, and found that suddenly I have an  
ignition light and, with the ignition on or off, the headlights are fine. I  
pressed the starter button, with everything but the ignition off. There were 
 clicks from the starter motor. I gave it a break, tried it again and you 
could  hear the (gear-reduction) starter almost turning the engine over, but 
not quite.  Bearing in mind the car is positive ground/earth, I put the 
multimeter negative  probe on the starter solenoid and grounded it with the 
positive probe. 10V  showed. I did the same at the starter motor connection 
(main power) and also got  about 10V. Still, the engine will not crank.
 
Any ideas? I wish the problem was just a pair of SU's out of tune; I'd have 
 that sorted in minutes!  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticul
ture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 13 20:53:58 2010
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 21:53:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>,
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w62EC12E18D3209A964B304B9DC0@phx.gbl>

David-

I converted my TR4 to an alternator a couple of years ago and have never
regretted it.  The combination of a fairly weak generator, and a fairly old
starter that drew too much current was the deciding point for me.  I recommend
the tech areas on the VTR website to get the wiring details down for the GM
conversion.  You do not have to go to a thin belt if you don't want to, I use
a standard belt, there is a wide pulley that can be put on the delco unit that
works perfectly.  Don't have the website handy to point to it, but those
pulleys are on ebay as well.  If you have trouble sourcing it, just email me
and I'll hunt down a link.

For my 59 3A, I'm planning on putting in a smaller Denso alternator.  I think
the delco unit would work, but I've seen pictures where the space is very
tight.  In my case also, I am going to try out a thin belt setup, so the Denso
unit is a fairly easy add on (I think).

Regards,
Randy DeRuiter
64 TR4
59 TR3A in progress


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jun 13 22:24:56 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 21:24:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis, please!
In-Reply-To: <4878a.3a6aa4db.3946d520@aol.com>
References: <4878a.3a6aa4db.3946d520@aol.com>
Message-ID: <036701cb0b79$8be12e90$0301a8c0@randall>

> I checked battery connections: OK. 
 
How exactly did you check them?  I've seen a lot of battery post connections
that looked fine, but didn't actually conduct enough current to crank an
engine.  My first reaction, given your description, would be to remove both
clamps and use a wire brush to expose fresh, shiny (should be almost white,
not gray) lead on both posts and clamps.  If you are using the more modern
pinch-type clamps, also remove the bolt and make sure the nut turns freely
on it past where it meets the clamp.  (I'm not sure what the equivalent
operation would be on the original "helmet" clamps as I've never used
those.)  Then reinstall and tighten firmly.

Any auto parts store should have a purpose-made wire brush for just a few
dollars/quid.
http://tinyurl.com/25z48s3

You mentioned that you own a multi-meter.  Next step would be to turn on the
headlights and start tracing along the circuit, to find where the voltage
disappears.  Start right at the battery posts (or as close as you can get).
If you don't find 12v with the headlights on, the battery is bad or
discharged.  Charge it and try again, if it is still low (even 10v), replace
the battery.

Once you've got 12v at the battery, check from the hot post of the battery
to a good ground point (like the 'E' terminal on the voltage regulator).  If
the voltage is now significantly lower, there is a bad connection somewhere
between the battery ground terminal, and the 'E' terminal on the regulator.
Hunt that down and fix it.

Now check from 'E' to the hot (top) terminal on the starter solenoid.  Same
story, if the voltage went away (or just went down more than 0.1 volt),
there is a bad connection somewhere between the battery post and the
solenoid post.  Stop and fix that before you continue.

Now check from 'E' to 'A1'.  And so on, until you pass the point where the
voltage drops to nearly nothing.  Write back and we'll go from there.

Here is a good photo (graciously supplied by Don Elliott) of the body/engine
ground strap:
http://tinyurl.com/2ek8k3y
Obviously, some things have been removed in that photo, for clarity.

Randall

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Jun 13 22:46:40 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 22:46:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
In-Reply-To: <4b5c1.7307ae38.3946edf5@aol.com>
References: <4b5c1.7307ae38.3946edf5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E561250353D34455B39C8197DCDFA21C@bboffice>

Engine ground strap is at the front motor mount, traditionally on the left
side.

Condition still sounds like either the battery or one of the main
connections to ground or starter/solenoid, your lights don't draw nearly the
current that the starter does.  

One other thing, just to eliminate the starter, go directly from the battery
to the starter, maybe using a jumper cable.  Disconnect all your other
connections to both before attempting, if the starter is the problem this
might help to clear it or solidly identify it.

Let us know how you make out,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 8:29 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update

Me again, unfortunately.
 
Reference my earlier post of no ignition light with key in the "on"  
position: Fuses are OK, checked some other connections, could not find the
body to engine ground strap (there must be one, right?). If this could be
the problem, can anyone tell me where it is? I was under and over the car,
but don't  see it.
 
I suddenly remembered that I have a multimeter (not sure why; I can't really
use it!). Anyway, the battery has 12V. I changed it for the one out of our
old Volvo, which also had about 12V, and found that suddenly I have an
ignition light and, with the ignition on or off, the headlights are fine. I
pressed the starter button, with everything but the ignition off. There were
clicks from the starter motor. I gave it a break, tried it again and you
could  hear the (gear-reduction) starter almost turning the engine over, but
not quite.  Bearing in mind the car is positive ground/earth, I put the
multimeter negative  probe on the starter solenoid and grounded it with the
positive probe. 10V  showed. I did the same at the starter motor connection
(main power) and also got  about 10V. Still, the engine will not crank.
 
Any ideas? I wish the problem was just a pair of SU's out of tune; I'd have
that sorted in minutes!  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticul
ture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society
and the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jun 14 05:59:05 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 07:59:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
Message-ID: <1a3c8.2eac5c7e.39477389@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/13/2010 10:39:03 PM Central Daylight Time, 
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com writes: 
> I suddenly remembered that I have a multimeter (not sure why; I can't  
> really use it!). Anyway, the battery has 12V. I changed it for the one out 
> of  
> our old Volvo, which also had about 12V, and found that suddenly I have an 
>  
> ignition light and, with the ignition on or off, the headlights are fine. 
> I  
> pressed the starter button, with everything but the ignition off. There 
> were 
> clicks from the starter motor. I gave it a break, tried it again and you 
> could  hear the (gear-reduction) starter almost turning the engine over, 
> but 
> not quite.  Bearing in mind the car is positive ground/earth, I put the 
> multimeter negative  probe on the starter solenoid and grounded it with 
> the 
> positive probe. 10V  showed. I did the same at the starter motor 
> connection 
> (main power) and also got  about 10V. Still, the engine will not crank.
> 
Where are you grounding the probe?  At the battery?  At the car frame?  At 
the engine block?  You may get different results.  If so that is the source 
of the problem.

The first thing to learn about electricity is that the circuit has to 
complete the circle.  From the battery back to the battery.  You can ground the 
positive probe to the battery positive and then check the voltage at the car 
frame and the engine block to see if you have issues with either of those 
connections.

Dave

PS: I presume you are connected positive ground.

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Jun 14 06:36:32 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 08:36:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re:  A milestone)
Message-ID: <dc4b.103fa7ec.39477c50@aol.com>

Years ago, my wife and I became hooked on British murder mystery  
DVDs....Rosemary & Thyme, Inspector Morse, etc. but most notably the  Midsomer 
Murders with Detective Chief Inspector Barnaby and his family.   Well, the point 
of bringing this up is that, even if you don't care to solve  murder 
mysteries, you've got to watch at least part of these shows to take in  the 
countryside and the old Brit cars......simply spectacular!
 
I wish I had a dollar for every time I blurted out in the middle of a scene 
 "there goes a Riley.....or look at that old Rolls...."  Most of the shows  
we've seen are set in the 30's, 40's and 50's so there aren't many "modern" 
TR's  running around but it sure sharpens your skills on identifying other 
lesser  known old Brit cars.....and, who of us wouldn't picture ourselves 
driving on  those country lanes:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 6/13/2010 10:14:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mark at bradakis.com writes:

>  Blue skies, old stone cottages that are identical to traditional farm 
houses  in Wales,
>    

Nice.  Wish I had a running  Triumph, especially since our big British Field
Day is coming up next  weekend.  So it goes.

But a number of years ago my wife and I  visited England and spent some
time with friends in Wales.  They lived  in an old farmhouse in a small 
town.
Their postal address had no number or  street name, it was simply

Bob and Vera Blah Blah
Upper  House
Blah Blah, Wales

I would love to go back again, a beautiful  place.  Now that
I have a job travel may once again be possible.   The
pay is pretty pathetic, but if we're frugal...

Anyway,  congratulations on a fine day's drive.  I am  envious.

mjb.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com

From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 14 06:37:19 2010
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 05:37:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Wish Fred Thomas a happy birthday
In-Reply-To: <1A01D885C3254CE199E36F500662C2F1@0817C93C637E473>
Message-ID: <428518.713.qm@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

A very happy (belated) birthday, Fred.
Sorry to be late with this, but I was away from home and didn't get the news
until this morning.

John Young NASS# 528
Indiana
'78 Spitfire
'66 Spitfire
'59 TR3A (getting body work)
'59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway.


--- On Sat, 6/12/10, Ken Gano, home PC <triumphs at consolidated.net> wrote:

> From: Ken Gano, home PC <triumphs at consolidated.net>
> Subject: [TR] Wish Fred Thomas a happy birthday
> To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, June 12, 2010, 9:45 AM
> Today is "FT"'s birthday.  Let's
> surprise him and flood his in box wish
> birthday wishes.
>
> Fred E Thomas
> E-mail Address(es):
>   frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
> Personal Information:
>   Address:
>     211 Commander Cover
>     Stafford VA 22554
>   Phone: 540-659-1409
>   Fax: 866-231-7257-4729
>
> Ken Gano
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Jun 14 08:15:11 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 10:15:11 EDT
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
Message-ID: <b833b.4daf7318.3947936f@aol.com>

Hi all; thanks everyone for your input.
 
I've followed everyone's advice. Before I did anything, though, I removed,  
cleaned and tightened every battery connection (at the battery terminals, 
the  battery ground connection on the block, the connection at the solenoid, 
etc.).  Then I tried cranking the car. It was perfect (this is with the old 
Volvo's  battery still fitted). Then, although this was probably not 
necessary, I turned  on the headlights and went through the testing procedure as 
recommended by  Randall (grounding the multimeter to the bulkhead/firewall, 
except on the  battery where I put the multimeter pins on the battery 
terminals). 12V  everywhere, no problem. I thought I'd cured it by re-making one of 
those  connections, so I put the TR battery back on, made sure the 
connections were  immaculately clean again, and we were back on-fault, with no 
cranking, no  ignition light (actually, it did glow once). Foolishly, instead of 
then doing a  bunch of tests, I took the battery out and put the old Volvo's 
battery back  in. Back to cranking perfection now.
 
Both batteries show 12V, which suggests to me that the TR's battery is not  
faulty. This leads me to start thinking that wherever the bad connection 
is,  corrected itself a couple of times, coincidentally when I fitted the 
Volvo  battery.
 
I have to get back to work now, so no time to do any other tests until this 
 evening. In the meantime, I'll be driving myself nuts trying to figure out 
if a  battery can fail suddenly, while the engine is being cranked and 
suddenly the  ignition light goes out and the engine stops cranking, and also 
even if that can  happen then I'll be trying to figure out why the TR's 
battery is still showing  12V.
 
Tonight, I'll put the TR battery back in, then do some tests. Weird.
 
Tim

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Mon Jun 14 08:19:55 2010
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 10:19:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re:  A milestone)
In-Reply-To: <dc4b.103fa7ec.39477c50@aol.com>
References: <dc4b.103fa7ec.39477c50@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0CFC92304DEA40B096B48401419FDB2A@artvac412870f0>

Hi Chip,

   Morse was set in the mid 80's to early 90's. Midsomer Murders was set 
even later. One
episode in particular (Midsomer Murders) features a Pimento Red TR6 quite 
prominently as the
Car of one of the prime suspects, or perpetrator, I forget. You're right, 
great stuff to watch.

   I've copied many to DVD etc. One of the best for this is the old Saint 
series. A lot of Cars
and Countryside in those. I was watching one I had on my computer the other 
day from the Saint
Season 2. In black and white, episode" The Elusive Ellshaw" features an 
early Spitfire that actually
manages to get away from the Saint's P1800 with the help of a Train Crossing 
and such.

Cheers,
Wayne
64 TR4
69 Spitfire
75 TR6

--------------------------------------------------
From: <Chip19474 at aol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 8:36 AM
To: <mark at bradakis.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re:  A milestone)

> Years ago, my wife and I became hooked on British murder mystery
> DVDs....Rosemary & Thyme, Inspector Morse, etc. but most notably the 
> Midsomer
> Murders with Detective Chief Inspector Barnaby and his family.   Well, the 
> point
> of bringing this up is that, even if you don't care to solve  murder
> mysteries, you've got to watch at least part of these shows to take in 
> the
> countryside and the old Brit cars......simply spectacular!
>
> I wish I had a dollar for every time I blurted out in the middle of a 
> scene
> "there goes a Riley.....or look at that old Rolls...."  Most of the shows
> we've seen are set in the 30's, 40's and 50's so there aren't many 
> "modern"
> TR's  running around but it sure sharpens your skills on identifying other
> lesser  known old Brit cars.....and, who of us wouldn't picture ourselves
> driving on  those country lanes:)
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1976 TR6  CF57822U

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 14 08:56:42 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 10:56:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] A milestone
In-Reply-To: <4C1580A3.6080205@bradakis.com>
References: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C7884A55FE87@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>,
	<4C1580A3.6080205@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W19D5F790FDBA34AB424BD8A5DC0@phx.gbl>

> Bob and Vera Blah Blah
> Upper House
> Blah Blah, Wales


This address was on a letter delivered to me:



John Herrera

The Really Old House by the Stream

Myersville, MD



John

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Jun 14 09:20:34 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 15:20:34 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re:  A milestone)
In-Reply-To: <dc4b.103fa7ec.39477c50@aol.com>
References: <dc4b.103fa7ec.39477c50@aol.com>
Message-ID: <955431.36993.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Chip Krout wrote:
Most of the shows we've seen are set in the 30's, 40's and
50's so there aren't many "modern" TR's  running around but it sure sharpens
your skills on identifying other lesser  known old Brit cars.....and, who of
us wouldn't picture ourselves driving on  those country lanes:)

Knowing there
are many on this list who like to emulate a certain 'Britishness' in terms of
car appearance and equipment :)
This also applies to language.
We Brits don't
drive *on* a lane - like on a highway. You drive *up* it or *down* it. There's
even more confusion here too. You can drive *down the lane* when it's going
uphill, or *up the lane* when it's going downhill. This is all terribly
confusing for people who visit us from across the Atlantic and while they're
re-assured we now have a decimal currency system that is devoid of tanners,
thruppnies and 'arf dollars - it's clear the 'country lane' issue is causing
much concern to those at the wrong-sided wheel of a conveyance that's
been hired (sorry, rented) from Mr. Avis or Mr. Hertz - sooooooooooo, this is
the ruling:
When turning into a 'lane' FROM a main road, you're driving 'up
the lane' even if its going downhill.
When driving TO a main road from a lane,
you're driving 'down the lane' even if its going uphill.

... and none of the
above applies when changing lanes on a motorway! The ruling has strictly rural
applications.

I do hope this clarification assists those who heretofore have
been afflicted with something akin to blind panic before using British roads
and that thus mentally equipped with this useless information, they will
henceforward enjoy a good night's sleep.

:)

Jonmac

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jun 14 09:21:54 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 11:21:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
Message-ID: <ac7fe.586ff7d6.3947a312@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/14/2010 9:15:13 AM Central Daylight Time, 
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com writes: 
> Both batteries show 12V, which suggests to me that the TR's battery is 
> not faulty. This leads me to start thinking that wherever the bad connection 
> is, corrected itself a couple of times, coincidentally when I fitted the 
> Volvo battery.
>  
> 
Bad assumption.  The battery is actually a collection of six cells.  It 
sounds like one cell or the interconnection has gone bad.  This is not all that 
uncommon.  A friend of mine in the car business once told me that more 
batteries fail in hot weather than in cold - and they fail more suddenly.

So let me recap: with the Volvo battery the car cranks fine but with the 
Triumph battery it doesn't?  Sounds like a bad battery to me.  Take it 
somewhere and have ti tested under load and I'll bet it fails.

An open circuit test doesn't tell all the story.

Cheers

Dave

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Jun 14 09:30:09 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 11:30:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re:  A milestone)
Message-ID: <96d80.7ad3a9cc.3947a501@aol.com>

John,
 
You are just an amazing wealth of information....I only wish I knew enough  
people to impress them with all of what I've learned about UK customs, 
language,  etc mostly as a direct result of this hobby!
 
Thanks for the explanation - it is now stored in my mental hard  drive:)
 
chip 
 
 
In a message dated 6/14/2010 11:20:36 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk writes:

 
Chip Krout wrote:
Most of the shows we've seen are set in the 30's, 40's and 50's so  there 
aren't many "modern" TR's  running around but it sure sharpens your  skills 
on identifying other lesser  known old Brit cars.....and, who of  us wouldn't 
picture ourselves driving on  those country lanes:)
 
Knowing there are many on this list who like to emulate a certain  
'Britishness' in terms of car appearance and equipment :)
This also applies to language.
We Brits don't drive *on* a lane - like on a highway. You drive *up* it  or 
*down* it. There's even more confusion here too. You can drive *down the  
lane* when it's going uphill, or *up the lane* when it's going downhill. This 
 is all terribly confusing for people who visit us from across the Atlantic 
and  while they're re-assured we now have a decimal currency system that is 
devoid  of tanners, thruppnies and 'arf dollars - it's clear the 'country 
lane' issue  is causing much concern to those at the wrong-sided wheel of a 
conveyance  that's been hired (sorry, rented) from Mr. Avis or Mr. Hertz -  
sooooooooooo, this is the ruling:
When turning into a 'lane' FROM a main road, you're driving 'up the lane'  
even if its going downhill.
When driving TO a main road from a lane, you're driving 'down the lane'  
even if its going uphill.
 
... and none of the above applies when changing lanes on a motorway!  The 
ruling has strictly rural applications.
 
I do hope this clarification assists those who heretofore have been  
afflicted with something akin to blind panic before using British roads and  that 
thus mentally equipped with this useless information, they will  
henceforward enjoy a good night's sleep.
 
:)
 
Jonmac

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 14 09:32:42 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 11:32:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
In-Reply-To: <b833b.4daf7318.3947936f@aol.com>
References: <b833b.4daf7318.3947936f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W189FC343B7432A7ADC2CDCA5DC0@phx.gbl>

> Both batteries show 12V, which suggests to me that the TR's battery is not
> faulty. This leads me to start thinking that wherever the bad connection
> is, corrected itself a couple of times, coincidentally when I fitted the
> Volvo battery.


A battery can read 12V with no load on it and still be faulty. Meaning that it
can't provide enough current when needed to power the load.



Or you connections might be intermittant like you state. But I would try a new
battery or get the old one load-tested.



John H.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Jun 14 09:36:58 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 11:36:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re:  A milestone)
In-Reply-To: <0CFC92304DEA40B096B48401419FDB2A@artvac412870f0>
References: <dc4b.103fa7ec.39477c50@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C16145A.9933.D476CFD@localhost>

On 14 Jun 2010 at 10:19, Wayne Lee wrote:

> Morse was set in the mid 80's to early 90's.

Yeah, good stuff.  Good books too.  As I recall, in the earlier books 
Morse drove a Lancia but the TV shows changed it to a Jaguar.  And if 
I remember right, in the later books the author (Colin Dexter) had 
him driving a Jaguar, a clear case of the books bowing to the success 
of the TV.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Jun 14 09:43:24 2010
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 11:43:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] HAPPY BIRTHDAY FRED
Message-ID: <4C164E1C.2000409@uga.edu>

Fred,

Hope you are/were somewhere having a great time and in a TR!

Thanks for all you do for the list.

Doug

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Jun 14 09:45:42 2010
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 11:45:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
In-Reply-To: <b833b.4daf7318.3947936f@aol.com>
References: <b833b.4daf7318.3947936f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C164EA6.5050408@uga.edu>

Before you go to all the trouble to put the suspect battery back in, 
take it down to Autozone or anywhere like that and they can load test 
the battery.  My truck's battery voltage was ok, but failed a load test. 
It was 8 years old.

Doug

On 6/14/2010 10:15 AM, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:
> Hi all; thanks everyone for your input.
>
> I've followed everyone's advice. Before I did anything, though, I removed,
> cleaned and tightened every battery connection (at the battery terminals,
> the  battery ground connection on the block, the connection at the solenoid,
> etc.).  Then I tried cranking the car. It was perfect (this is with the old
> Volvo's  battery still fitted). Then, although this was probably not
> necessary, I turned  on the headlights and went through the testing procedure as
> recommended by  Randall (grounding the multimeter to the bulkhead/firewall,
> except on the  battery where I put the multimeter pins on the battery
> terminals). 12V  everywhere, no problem. I thought I'd cured it by re-making one of
> those  connections, so I put the TR battery back on, made sure the
> connections were  immaculately clean again, and we were back on-fault, with no
> cranking, no  ignition light (actually, it did glow once). Foolishly, instead of
> then doing a  bunch of tests, I took the battery out and put the old Volvo's
> battery back  in. Back to cranking perfection now.
>
> Both batteries show 12V, which suggests to me that the TR's battery is not
> faulty. This leads me to start thinking that wherever the bad connection
> is,  corrected itself a couple of times, coincidentally when I fitted the
> Volvo  battery.
>
> I have to get back to work now, so no time to do any other tests until this
>   evening. In the meantime, I'll be driving myself nuts trying to figure out
> if a  battery can fail suddenly, while the engine is being cranked and
> suddenly the  ignition light goes out and the engine stops cranking, and also
> even if that can  happen then I'll be trying to figure out why the TR's
> battery is still showing  12V.
>
> Tonight, I'll put the TR battery back in, then do some tests. Weird.
>
> Tim
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mathews at uga.edu

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jun 14 09:56:57 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 08:56:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
In-Reply-To: <b833b.4daf7318.3947936f@aol.com>
References: <b833b.4daf7318.3947936f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <03e101cb0bda$3825ab80$0301a8c0@randall>

> In the meantime, I'll be driving myself nuts trying 
> to figure out 
> if a  battery can fail suddenly, while the engine is being 
> cranked and 
> suddenly the  ignition light goes out and the engine stops 
> cranking, and also 
> even if that can  happen 

Although certainly not common; it has happened to me.  The battery had a
broken conductor inside the case, probably from over-enthusiastic tightening
of a clamp.  All normal tests would show that the battery was working fine
(which it was), but then when the engine was cranked, it would heat up the
break and cause it to quit conducting entirely.  Then any sort of fiddling
with the battery (like removing it for testing or tightening a clamp) would
rub the broken ends together and cause them to start conducting again.  The
effect was a "perfectly good" battery that would not start the car!

An even weirder problem happened to me on a non-Triumph.  On that car, the
battery ground cable ran to both the body and the engine (so it doubled as
the body/engine ground strap).  The stud on the engine was horizontal, and
the nut had worked loose, so the cable end was just hanging on the stud.
When cranking, the cable end would micro-weld to the stud and pass enough
current for the starter.  Immediately after starting, the voltmeter would
indicate that the battery was being charged, but soon engine vibration would
break the micro-weld and the indicated voltage would drop back to battery
voltage (even though the alternator was putting out 14+ volts).

My point in all this is to get the problem to happen, and make the voltage
checks with everything connected and undisturbed.  Just blindly replacing
components can drive you crazy!

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jun 14 11:19:47 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 13:19:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re:  A milestone)
Message-ID: <45bce.5fbfca7e.3947beb3@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/14/2010 11:14:51 AM Central Daylight Time, 
macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> We Brits don't
> drive *on* a lane - like on a highway. You drive *up* it or *down* it. 
> There's
> even more confusion here too. You can drive *down the lane* when it's 
> going
> uphill, or *up the lane* when it's going downhill. 

We're not so much different, you and we.  We use "down" in a similar vein 
as in:

Traveler: "Can you tell me where I can find the Smith's farm?"
Local: "Yep.  It's down the road a fur piece."

And it doesn't matter whether the road goes up, down, north, south or 
nowhere, it's down the road.

We also talk about going DOWN town.  And we talk about going UP town.  
Neither one refers to the relative elevation of the designated venue.

So the concept of driving up or down a lane is not so foreign to us.  But 
thank you for the explanation as to which term refers to the coming and going 
of the situation.

Just my tuppence worth.

Cheers

Dave

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Mon Jun 14 12:08:36 2010
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:08:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20612.1276529769.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.20612.1276529769.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CCDA03BE2BDF9E-22B8-289F@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com>

 You've gotten a lot of good and accurate advice...

However there's one thing I don't think I've seen mentioned....

It could also simply be that the battery that was in the TR originally is low
on charge, having been run down due to some poor connections and your attempts
to start the car with it. It dropped to the point where it could no longer
turn over the starter, through a less than ideal connection.

With all your fiddling you've improved the various connections, and that plus
the use of a well-charged battery from your other car, everything now works
fine.

I'd next check the level of the acid in the TR battery and top it up  with
distilled water if necessary. There's usually a "full" line on the side of the
battery... but if not the fluid in each cell should at least cover the plates
you can see peering down inside with a flashlight... Be careful, fumes coming
from the battery can be flammable... and the acid is, well, acid!

Once the TR battery is topped up, put it on a trickle charger for a while, to
see if it will come back up to power and hold a charge. If you don't have a
trickle charger, well they aren't very expensive. I recommend one that has low
(2 amp?) ,medium (6 to 8 amp?) and high/momentary quick start (75 amp?) output
modes and automatically controls the output, plus has a gauge on it to show
the state of charge.

After charging, check the electrolyte level again and top up if necessary.

You'll soon know if the TR battery can be saved. If so, you're all set. If
not, now you know exactly what you need to replace.



Alan Myers
San Jose, California
amfoto1 at aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L
www.triumphowners.com/640




-----Original Message-----




> Both batteries show 12V, which suggests to me that the TR's battery is not

> faulty. This leads me to start thinking that wherever the bad connection

> is, corrected itself a couple of times, coincidentally when I fitted the

> Volvo battery.





A battery can read 12V with no load on it and still be faulty. Meaning that
it

can't provide enough current when needed to power the load.


Or you connections might be intermittant like you state. But I would try a
new

battery or get the old one load-tested.

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Jun 14 13:31:16 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 15:31:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
Message-ID: <217e8.429086e8.3947dd84@aol.com>

Hi Alan;
 
I'm sorry, it appears I forgot to mention that I checked the levels in the  
battery last night and they were all fine, then I trickle charged it over 
night.  I took the Volvo battery off the TR this morning and replaced it with 
the TR's  battery. I was very careful about connecting it securely. I was 
back to square  one again with a dimly-glowing ignition light, and an 
inability to crank the  engine when the starter button was pressed. I put the Volvo 
battery straight  back in, and it's fine now.
 
So, it all points to the battery, I agree. My concern, now dissipated, was  
that I was not aware that batteries could discharge so suddenly (i.e., from 
full  charge, cranking an engine over properly, to suddenly nothing). In 
addition, I  saw 12V on the battery and thought everything was fine with it, 
forgetting  that's without load.
 
Because we live way out in the boonies, I won't have the opportunity to get 
 the battery load tested for some time, probably after the Mosport Vintage 
Racing  Festival this weekend. I'll let everyone know what the final outcome 
is,  though.
 
Many thanks to everyone;
 
Tim

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Mon Jun 14 13:46:53 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 15:46:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re:  A milestone)
In-Reply-To: <955431.36993.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9A17@CMS01.winhosting.local>

It could come from using water (rivers) as a reference. Water flows down to
the sea.

For example:

Lower Egypt = North of Upper Egypt, but is downstream

Lower Canada = NorthEast of Upper Canada, but is downstream

Cheers,

Mark



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: June 14, 2010 11:21 AM
To: Chip19474 at aol.com; mark at bradakis.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re: A milestone)

Chip Krout wrote:
Most of the shows we've seen are set in the 30's, 40's and
50's so there aren't many "modern" TR's  running around but it sure sharpens
your skills on identifying other lesser  known old Brit cars.....and, who of
us wouldn't picture ourselves driving on  those country lanes:)

Knowing there
are many on this list who like to emulate a certain 'Britishness' in terms of
car appearance and equipment :)
This also applies to language.
We Brits don't
drive *on* a lane - like on a highway. You drive *up* it or *down* it.
There's
even more confusion here too. You can drive *down the lane* when it's going
uphill, or *up the lane* when it's going downhill. This is all terribly
confusing for people who visit us from across the Atlantic and while they're
re-assured we now have a decimal currency system that is devoid of tanners,
thruppnies and 'arf dollars - it's clear the 'country lane' issue is causing
much concern to those at the wrong-sided wheel of a conveyance that's
been hired (sorry, rented) from Mr. Avis or Mr. Hertz - sooooooooooo, this is
the ruling:
When turning into a 'lane' FROM a main road, you're driving 'up
the lane' even if its going downhill.
When driving TO a main road from a lane,
you're driving 'down the lane' even if its going uphill.

... and none of the
above applies when changing lanes on a motorway! The ruling has strictly
rural
applications.

I do hope this clarification assists those who heretofore have
been afflicted with something akin to blind panic before using British roads
and that thus mentally equipped with this useless information, they will
henceforward enjoy a good night's sleep.

:)

Jonmac

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Jun 14 14:13:51 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 13:13:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Leaking TR3 Engine Front Plate
Message-ID: <445250.20952.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     My TR3 is leaking oil out the bottom of the front plate. When I rebuilt
the engine I re-used the factory bolts with the captive star lock washers and
evidently they worked loose. Re- tightening them down didn't fix the leak so I
guess that the Permatex and gasket have given out. I am at the initial phases
of determining how and when I am going to get to this.
     Can I pull the snout of the TR and rebuilt this with the engine in the
car? I could hold the engine up with a floor jack when I take off the engine
mounts and front plate.
     The engine didn't leak a drop for the first 6 or 8,000 miles. I think
that next time I fix this I will use new grade 8 bolts and lock washers, and
maybe Loctite Blue.
     Anyone have any temporary fixes to try? I was thinking of loosening
existing front plate bolts, prying the front plate off the block a little bit,
washing out the Permatex and gasket with spray disk brake cleaner, gooping in
lots of Permatex and then re-tightening it all down with new bolts and lock
washers.
     Anyone else been to this spot?

     Bill in Tehachapi.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jun 14 15:42:44 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:42:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Leaking TR3 Engine Front Plate
In-Reply-To: <445250.20952.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <445250.20952.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <061901cb0c0a$869948f0$93cbdad0$@rr.com>

> When I rebuilt
> the engine I re-used the factory bolts with the captive star lock
> washers

Hate to say this, Bill, but those were not the factory bolts.

> and evidently they worked loose.

Since they go into a relatively soft aluminum sealing block, I'm guessing
that they bottomed in the holes rather than pulling up against the plate.
I'll further guess that the holes are damaged, which is why some DPO
substituted the wrong, too long bolts (to grab the last few undamaged
threads in the bottom of the hole) and that now those threads are damaged
too.

If you have to try to address this with the engine in the car, I would drop
the pan and remove that sealing block, to install Helicoils in it.  Trim
away the gasket from the opening, then 'butter' the area with RTV.  Let it
set briefly, then put the block back in place.  Your choice as to whether to
replace the cork seals at each end, or try to fill the cavity with RTV (I
prefer the cork). Get the right bolts (HU0856 which are 5/16NC by 3/4" long)
with new split lockwashers (WL0208) and torque them only to spec (15 ft-lb).
Wait for the RTV to harden, and then remove any exposed beads.  Install the
pan and hope for the best.

I went through much the same thing after changing main bearings with the
engine in the car.  Mine didn't come out perfectly dry, but it didn't leak
enough to worry about, IMO.

Of course the right thing to do is to pull the engine and remove the plate
(which means removing the timing cover, chain, gears, etc.)

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jun 14 15:54:55 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:54:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re:  A milestone)
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9A17@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <955431.36993.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9A17@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <062101cb0c0c$3a0c0c00$ae242400$@rr.com>

> It could come from using water (rivers) as a reference. Water flows
> down to the sea.

So lanes flow down to the motorway?

I would say that more likely "up" a lane invokes the meaning "to or at an
important place", in this case the manor house that would normally be at the
end of the lane away from the road.

http://www.oxfordadvancedlearnersdictionary.com/dictionary/up

Such usage is still found in the US today, for example you can walk "up" to
a person even if you are walking downhill.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jun 14 15:58:37 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:58:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
In-Reply-To: <217e8.429086e8.3947dd84@aol.com>
References: <217e8.429086e8.3947dd84@aol.com>
Message-ID: <062201cb0c0c$be8996a0$3b9cc3e0$@rr.com>

FWIW, Tim, the procedure I suggested of measuring battery voltage with the
headlights on is a crude form of load test.

And that battery I mentioned with the broken internal conductor would pass a
professional load test even though it wouldn't start the car.

-- Randall 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Jun 14 16:22:06 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 22:22:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <411471735.5536531276554126789.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>As I get back into the '3a, I think an alternator conversion is needed,
>while the jenny was cool for looks, it simply didn't provide the power
>to needed for normal usage and didn't cycle the battery enough.  Is
>there webpage that is recent on installing a GM/Delco three wire
>alternator.  Also, is it advisable to go the thin belt conversion at the
>same time?  Where can I get replacement pulleys then for the water pump
>and crank?

I'm coming in on this late, but what the hay, why change the life cycle now, eh?

I stayed stock with a rebuilt generator...for a time.  ..Until I ran the car in the fall, driving to work in the morning in the dark, driving home at night in the dark, and finding that using the lights and running the motor left me with a dead battery after, I forget, two weeks?

Did the GM alternator conversion and never regretted it.  Well, except when I discovered one of the wires I'd used didn't stand up to vibration because the strands were too big, leaving me beside the road fabricating a new connector.  Now cured and forgotten.

I didn't bother with the thin belt conversion, but don't see why not.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Jun 14 16:47:31 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 22:47:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
In-Reply-To: <4b5c1.7307ae38.3946edf5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1397413232.5546501276555651816.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Reference my earlier post of no ignition light with key in the "on"  
>position: Fuses are OK, checked some other connections, could not find the body  
>to engine ground strap (there must be one, right?). If this could be the  
>problem, can anyone tell me where it is? I was under and over the car, but 
>don't  see it.
 
Wondering:  the TR3A ammeter is supplied by big power.  If there was a short, would an old battery not be able to compensate while a "better" battery might?

Just curious.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Jun 14 17:31:05 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 16:31:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Leaking TR3 Engine Front Plate
In-Reply-To: <5059ADFB2F7A472CB0F7E1C6A89D009F@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <725526.90183.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Yeah, the front crank seal is dry. The bolts at the bottom of the front
plate had backed off for sure.

     -Bill Brewer

--- On Mon, 6/14/10, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:

From: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Leaking TR3 Engine Front Plate
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Date: Monday, June 14, 2010, 3:23 PM

Are you certain that the oil is coming from the front plate to block joint?
The front crank seal can leak a lot of oil which then goes all over the front
of the engine. That's an easier fix using a speedy sleeve and a new seal.

JVV

----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 4:13 PM
Subject: [TR] Leaking TR3 Engine Front Plate


>     My TR3 is leaking oil out the bottom of the front plate. When I rebuilt
> the engine I re-used the factory bolts with the captive star lock washers
and
> evidently they worked loose. Re- tightening them down didn't fix the leak so
I
> guess that the Permatex and gasket have given out. I am at the initial
phases
> of determining how and when I am going to get to this.
>     Can I pull the snout of the TR and rebuilt this with the engine in the
> car? I could hold the engine up with a floor jack when I take off the
engine
> mounts and front plate.
>     The engine didn't leak a drop for the first 6 or 8,000 miles. I think
> that next time I fix this I will use new grade 8 bolts and lock washers,
and
> maybe Loctite Blue.
>     Anyone have any temporary fixes to try? I was thinking of loosening
> existing front plate bolts, prying the front plate off the block a little
bit,
> washing out the Permatex and gasket with spray disk brake cleaner, gooping
in
> lots of Permatex and then re-tightening it all down with new bolts and lock
> washers.
>     Anyone else been to this spot?
>
>     Bill in Tehachapi.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jun 14 18:38:22 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 17:38:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical diagnosis: Update
In-Reply-To: <1397413232.5546501276555651816.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <4b5c1.7307ae38.3946edf5@aol.com>
	<1397413232.5546501276555651816.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <067901cb0c23$0fa40ff0$2eec2fd0$@rr.com>

> Wondering:  the TR3A ammeter is supplied by big power.  If there was a
> short, would an old battery not be able to compensate while a "better"
> battery might?

Hard to tell behind the smoke!

-- Randall 

From davidt at opentext.com  Mon Jun 14 20:06:08 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 22:06:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <411471735.5536531276554126789.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<411471735.5536531276554126789.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE26@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Terry 

What did you do to still use the thick belt?  Also, more for the other listeners on this call :-)  Has anyone tried the denso alternators, they are a much smaller package.  My '95 K2500 had one but it had the serpentine belt pulley on it so I wonder about the conversion.  


David 

-----Original Message-----
From: terryrs at comcast.net [mailto:terryrs at comcast.net] 
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 6:22 PM
To: David Templeton
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...

>As I get back into the '3a, I think an alternator conversion is needed,
>while the jenny was cool for looks, it simply didn't provide the power
>to needed for normal usage and didn't cycle the battery enough.  Is
>there webpage that is recent on installing a GM/Delco three wire
>alternator.  Also, is it advisable to go the thin belt conversion at the
>same time?  Where can I get replacement pulleys then for the water pump
>and crank?

I'm coming in on this late, but what the hay, why change the life cycle now, eh?

I stayed stock with a rebuilt generator...for a time.  ..Until I ran the car in the fall, driving to work in the morning in the dark, driving home at night in the dark, and finding that using the lights and running the motor left me with a dead battery after, I forget, two weeks?

Did the GM alternator conversion and never regretted it.  Well, except when I discovered one of the wires I'd used didn't stand up to vibration because the strands were too big, leaving me beside the road fabricating a new connector.  Now cured and forgotten.

I didn't bother with the thin belt conversion, but don't see why not.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From davidt at opentext.com  Mon Jun 14 20:07:56 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 22:07:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE27@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

I am sooo, not liking my email client this week  ;-( I am resending the
message that got blanked


Andy
 
No, not really a lot of stuff, didn't even have the radio installed yet :-)  I
am currently running the 25amp gen and at night I run Lucas PL's and after not
too long the power starts to dwindle, which is dangerous for the taillights
especially :-) .  Also, I still have a stock starter that takes a lot out of
the battery if a number of stops are required.  There were a couple of times I
had to call CAA for a boost, and that was fun trying to explain a +ve earth
car to the kid :-P
 
It was completely rebuilt when I put the car together in '02 so there would be
less than 10K kms on it.  I do want to add a radio.  So are you saying I
should have no issues :-) 
 
David
 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------
From: Andrew Mace [mailto:zoboherald at aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 6:57 PM
To: David Templeton; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...

Davd, were/are you running lots and lots of power-robbing accessories? enough
Lucas Flamethrowers to win the Alpine Rallye? Killer stereo?

I drive my Lucas C40 generator-equipped Herald in just about all kinds of
weather (usually excepting winter) -- which means I often have radio, heater
blower, lights, wipers, etc., all going -- and I have no problems with the
generator keeping that big old Group 24 battery charged.

Maybe your generator just needs refreshing or rebuilding? (Disclaimer: I did
have my original generator rebuilt about six years ago, and it's been fine
ever since!)

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us


-----Original Message-----
From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
As I get back into the '3a, I think an alternator conversion is needed,


while the jenny was cool for looks, it simply didn't provide the power


to needed for normal usage and didn't cycle the battery enough.

From davidt at opentext.com  Mon Jun 14 20:16:18 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 22:16:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <411471735.5536531276554126789.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<411471735.5536531276554126789.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE28@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Terry et al, 

Forgot to ask this, maybe others can pipe-in, what is the width of the groove for the think belt needed?

Thanks
David 

p.s.  I doubt you guys have heard this before <grin> but this list is the best I have ever been on and the folks on here are the best!!  Period!

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Jun 14 22:09:42 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 00:09:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re:  A milestone)
In-Reply-To: <955431.36993.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <dc4b.103fa7ec.39477c50@aol.com>
	<955431.36993.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <W49M1e0070HYFJw0549NiS@charter.net>

At 11:20 AM 6/14/2010, you wrote:
>We Brits don't
>drive *on* a lane - like on a highway. You drive *up* it or *down* it.

Like taking the train Up or Down?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga. 

From don at napanet.net  Tue Jun 15 01:50:05 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 00:50:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] ebay question: off topic, sort-of
Message-ID: <20100615083747.AEF5B24BA5F@mail.napanet.net>

I did a reply from the seller of the MGB.  Apparently, this 2nd 
chance offer I received was a scam!

Don,
No it's not legit. Don't know where it came from, although I've 
gotten a couple of weird messages from "eBay" (not really eBay). I'm 
traveling and not able to check email very often, so sorry it's taken 
me so long to get back to you on this.
Roger








 From my experience, some of the 2nd chance offers are legit, and 
some are scams.  I just got a 2nd chance offer on an early MGB 
roadster that I had bid on.  I sent an email to the seller to find 
out if it was legit.  I haven't heard back yet.

Here's a portion of the email I received.  It doesn't look quite 
right to me as the wording is awkward, and it was sent from a 
different email address than the correspondence I had with the 
seller.  It did not arrive through eBay's message system either which 
is also a bit odd.

Don Scott
TR4A
MGA Mk 2
MGB GT
Misc. Japanese cars

_______________________________________________

2nd chance offer I received today:



Lucky you, Don! The seller has offered you a second chance to buy 
this item. The second time can be a charm.

Message from muffler.bearing:
Hi,

Just wanted to let you know that I am reconsidering your offer of US 
$8,900.00. If still interested to buy it at US $8,900.00 and you 
already have the funds, please let me know asap.

Please kindly reply to this email with your answer!

Thank you!

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140410675715>Excellent 
1966 MGB Roadster w/OD -- total restoration

_______________________________________________


At 12:10 PM 06/11/2010, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:
>Hi all;
>
>I was bidding on a Triumph on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The car didn't
>meet reserve and I wasn't the highest bidder anyway. I have now received an
>e-mail, I think from the vendor, suggesting a "second chance offer" for the
>car.  The e-mail, which appears to be an ebay generated one but from the
>vendor's  email address, states that the vendor is reconsidering my offer and
>asks me to  get in touch if I have the funds and am still interested.
>
>I often see ebay listings that say "no second chance offers". Not knowing
>what a "second chance offer" is all about, I got the impression this might
>be  some sort of scam. Can anyone enlighten me?
>
>Tim
>
>Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
>427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
>Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
>Canada
>Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
>(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/)
>
>Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for
>horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape 
>Association, the
>Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural 
>Society and
>the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Jun 15 07:14:21 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 06:14:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Crash Gear Box
Message-ID: <513027.11586.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I was reading about cars with "crash gearboxes" in an old sports car
book. I speculate that it means no synchros, but am not sure. Can someone
explain what exactly is a crash gearbox?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue Jun 15 08:23:26 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 10:23:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] PDWA
Message-ID: <AANLkTilxPFC4fLkW_cW-DkP4e6VCVoaQU5vwjknHmISU@mail.gmail.com>

I think I've got a problem.

Background: 1963 TR4 that was parked for 8+ years.  Was driven up to
the time it was parked.  Some PO removed the single circuit braking
system and replaced it with a TR250 or TR6 dual circuit with servo.
I've driven the car and everything seems fine as far as braking goes.
There are no wires connected to the PDWA switch, so it won't be giving
me any warning if there is a circuit failure.

While doing some work in the engine bay I noticed there was some brake
fluid sitting in the socket of the PDWA switch.  I'm assuming this
means the switch itself is bad internally.

What I'm wondering is since the warning circuit has not been wired
into the car is there any reason I need the PDWA installed?  Can I
just remove it and use couplings to tie the lines together?

Personally I'd rather not have the PDWA in the car but if there is
some overriding reason to leave it in I will, which would mean I'm
going to have to do something about the switch leaking.

I'm fairly certain I would notice a drop in braking performance so
taking the time and effort to try and install a warning circuit seems
useless to me.

Thoughts anyone?

Thanks!

Brad
1963 TR4

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jun 15 08:31:40 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 14:31:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Crash Gear Box
In-Reply-To: <513027.11586.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1266451968.4135611276612300200.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

You are correct.  A "crash box" is a transmission with no syncromesh.  

Often you will hear someone describe and early TR or Sprite as having a "crash first" (implying that they have syncro on the higher gears.

Some race setups have a crash box with undercut engagement dogs with wide spacing.  They are much easier to shift without using the clutch than shifting a normal street transmission without the clutch.   Downside of these "dog boxes" is that there is a lot of slop back and forth in the driveline when cruising.  Annoying on the road, but not a factor in a race box because you are virtually always under power.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

> From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 8:14:21 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] Crash Gear Box
>
> I was reading about cars with "crash gearboxes" in an old sports car
> book. I speculate that it means no synchros, but am not sure. Can
> someone
> explain what exactly is a crash gearbox?
> 
>      -Bill in Tehachapi
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Jun 15 08:33:19 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 10:33:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE27@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE27@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <8CCDAAED59C32EE-E3C-EE4F@webmail-m093.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----

From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>



It was completely rebuilt when I put the car together in '02 so there would be
less than 10K kms on it.  I do want to add a radio.  So are you saying I
should
have no issues :-)

==AM==
I suppose I am, but that's only based on my own experiences over the years
(where I've had more problems
with alternators than with generators)! :-)

I also should have included the Cibie H4 headlamps in the list of electrical
items on my Herald....

--Andy Mace


*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?

*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 15 09:17:36 2010
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 08:17:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] PDWA
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilxPFC4fLkW_cW-DkP4e6VCVoaQU5vwjknHmISU@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <609176.20980.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

Brad:
 
There is no need for the PDWA.  Just make up some unions to go between the
lines.  You can use the mounting holes for the PDWA to bolt rubber mounts to
keep the brake lines from moving.  I did this on a TR6; works very well.
 
Ernie

--- On Tue, 6/15/10, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:


From: Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com>
Subject: [TR] PDWA
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 15, 2010, 9:23 AM


I think I've got a problem.

Background: 1963 TR4 that was parked for 8+ years.  Was driven up to
the time it was parked.  Some PO removed the single circuit braking
system and replaced it with a TR250 or TR6 dual circuit with servo.
I've driven the car and everything seems fine as far as braking goes.
There are no wires connected to the PDWA switch, so it won't be giving
me any warning if there is a circuit failure.

While doing some work in the engine bay I noticed there was some brake
fluid sitting in the socket of the PDWA switch.  I'm assuming this
means the switch itself is bad internally.

What I'm wondering is since the warning circuit has not been wired
into the car is there any reason I need the PDWA installed?  Can I
just remove it and use couplings to tie the lines together?

Personally I'd rather not have the PDWA in the car but if there is
some overriding reason to leave it in I will, which would mean I'm
going to have to do something about the switch leaking.

I'm fairly certain I would notice a drop in braking performance so
taking the time and effort to try and install a warning circuit seems
useless to me.

Thoughts anyone?

Thanks!

Brad
1963 TR4

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue Jun 15 09:21:15 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 11:21:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] PDWA
In-Reply-To: <609176.20980.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
References: <AANLkTilxPFC4fLkW_cW-DkP4e6VCVoaQU5vwjknHmISU@mail.gmail.com>
	<609176.20980.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimty7M4sD9pqaRGj5fciUQ5Qf1GSn3w352OrXUs@mail.gmail.com>

I'm assuming a standard brake line union as found in the auto parts stores
would be sufficient, or are the flares on the Triumph brake lines unique?

On Tue, Jun 15, 2010 at 11:17 AM, Ernest Husmann <ehusmann53 at yahoo.com>wrote:

> Brad:
>
> There is no need for the PDWA.  Just make up some unions to go between the
> lines.  You can use the mounting holes for the PDWA to bolt rubber mounts to
> keep the brake lines from moving.  I did this on a TR6; works very well.
>
> Ernie
>
> --- On *Tue, 6/15/10, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com>* wrote:
>
>
> From: Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com>
> Subject: [TR] PDWA
> To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, June 15, 2010, 9:23 AM
>
> I think I've got a problem.
>
> Background: 1963 TR4 that was parked for 8+ years.  Was driven up to
> the time it was parked.  Some PO removed the single circuit braking
> system and replaced it with a TR250 or TR6 dual circuit with servo.
> I've driven the car and everything seems fine as far as braking goes.
> There are no wires connected to the PDWA switch, so it won't be giving
> me any warning if there is a circuit failure.
>
> While doing some work in the engine bay I noticed there was some brake
> fluid sitting in the socket of the PDWA switch.  I'm assuming this
> means the switch itself is bad internally.
>
> What I'm wondering is since the warning circuit has not been wired
> into the car is there any reason I need the PDWA installed?  Can I
> just remove it and use couplings to tie the lines together?
>
> Personally I'd rather not have the PDWA in the car but if there is
> some overriding reason to leave it in I will, which would mean I'm
> going to have to do something about the switch leaking.
>
> I'm fairly certain I would notice a drop in braking performance so
> taking the time and effort to try and install a warning circuit seems
> useless to me.
>
> Thoughts anyone?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> 1963 TR4
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun 15 09:27:42 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 08:27:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] PDWA
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilxPFC4fLkW_cW-DkP4e6VCVoaQU5vwjknHmISU@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTilxPFC4fLkW_cW-DkP4e6VCVoaQU5vwjknHmISU@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <05b501cb0c9f$4c2ea5d0$0301a8c0@randall>

> While doing some work in the engine bay I noticed there was some brake
> fluid sitting in the socket of the PDWA switch.  I'm assuming this
> means the switch itself is bad internally.

Not the switch itself, but the seals inside the PDWA.

> Can I
> just remove it and use couplings to tie the lines together?

Should work fine.  Just be sure you use brake couplings, nor ordinary
plumbing couplings.

> I'm fairly certain I would notice a drop in braking performance so
> taking the time and effort to try and install a warning circuit seems
> useless to me.

Both of my Stags came to me with the PDWA warning disabled.  Apparently in
both cases because there was a problem in the braking system.  But the
sellers apparently did not know of the issue (of course they might have been
lying but I don't think so), nor was it obvious to me as new owner that the
rear brakes were not working.  They do so little compared to the front
brakes anyway that it is really hard to notice an issue except under very
hard braking.

When I pulled the rear brakes from the wrecked TR3A, I also found that one
of them was not working, and I had not noticed.  I try to make a point of
checking the brakes occasionally (by finding a deserted area and locking all
4 wheels) but hadn't done so in several years.

Randall

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Jun 15 09:46:32 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 08:46:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE27@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE27@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilL6Xi7nsfkLzcyy-v43lBuo4Xbnyni9zQs6tiH@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/14/10, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:
> It was completely rebuilt when I put the car together in '02 so there would
> be less than 10K kms on it.  I do want to add a radio.  So are you saying I
> should have no issues :-)

I think I have similar current demands incl radio, tape deck & H4
headlamps and I have never had an issue with the dynamo keeping up.
My night driving is seldom more than an hour or two and perhaps that
depletes the battery some but with most of my driving in dry daytime
conditions it recovers fine.

Perhaps the issue is your battery -- does it also date from '02?

Geo

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jun 15 09:46:38 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 11:46:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] PDWA
Message-ID: <2463d.6846baa6.3948fa5e@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/15/2010 10:08:07 AM Central Daylight Time, 
brad.kahler at 141.com writes: 
> What I'm wondering is since the warning circuit has not been wired
> into the car is there any reason I need the PDWA installed?  Can I
> just remove it and use couplings to tie the lines together?
> 
> Personally I'd rather not have the PDWA in the car but if there is
> some overriding reason to leave it in I will, which would mean I'm
> going to have to do something about the switch leaking.
> 
> I'm fairly certain I would notice a drop in braking performance so
> taking the time and effort to try and install a warning circuit seems
> useless to me.
> 
> Thoughts anyone?
> 
The only thing the PDWA does is light the Brake Fail Warning Light.  If you 
are not going to connect up a Brake Fail Warning Light there is no need for 
the PDWA assembly.

I guess the theory is that a slow leak can cause one circuit to fail 
gradually enough for the average driver to not notice until too late.  But most of 
us are aware of our cars to the point that we would notice.

Cheers

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun 15 09:59:47 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 08:59:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <8CCDAAED59C32EE-E3C-EE4F@webmail-m093.sysops.aol.com>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE27@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<8CCDAAED59C32EE-E3C-EE4F@webmail-m093.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <05bc01cb0ca3$c7a56920$0301a8c0@randall>

> (where I've had more problems
> with alternators than with generators)! :-)

Well, I supposed I should weigh in on the other side of this.  "Back when" I
went through several Indiana winters with a TR3A as my only car, and found
the stock 19 amp generator to be totally inadequate.  The only upgrades were
H4 headlamps (55 watts as I recall) and a rewound heater motor.  With
everything running, I measured the total load at over 20 amps, meaning that
not only would the battery never recharge from starting the engine (which
took a lot after sitting outdoors overnight) but it would slowly run down
while driving down the road!

I worked second shift at the time, only about 5 miles from work, so
generally I drove with only headlights (no heater or wipers) both to and
from work.  But there were traffic lights, and the generator doesn't put out
much of anything at idle.  A fully charged battery would last only a few
days of this before being too weak to start the engine.  I got to be an
expert at push-starting the car by myself; but it still wasn't exactly what
I wanted to do at 12:45 AM so I could go home to bed.

After installing a Ford alternator, the TR would start even when other cars
would not!  It was the source for jump-starting American cars more than
once.  And the junkyard alternator I installed outlasted the car.  Like
night and day, especially considering that for a time I was burning up a
generator every month or two (from trying to get too much current out of
it).

The alternator setup worked so well that I duplicated it on my next TR3A
(that got wrecked a few years back).  In 20 years and over 150,000 miles, I
replaced the regulator once (with a solid state version), and the alternator
once.  The originals were $20 from a junkyard (including the wiring between
them); the replacements were around $60 as I recall (for both units, but of
course some 15 years ago).  With the 60 amps available, I also had power for
an electric radiator fan, high power headlights (120 watt H4), and a stereo
loud enough to be heard on the freeway.

I've been running an original generator on the "current project" TR3 for
about a year now, just to refresh my memory of what it was like.  I drive
farther to work, mostly freeway and mostly in the daylight, so it's been
much less of a problem than in those cold Indiana winters.  Still, I've had
a couple of dead batteries in the morning; and I just installed that old
electric radiator fan ... so there is a nice shiny "mini" alternator sitting
on the shelf waiting for me to build a "hot rod" motor to go with it <G>

Randall

From davidt at opentext.com  Tue Jun 15 10:01:54 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 12:01:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilL6Xi7nsfkLzcyy-v43lBuo4Xbnyni9zQs6tiH@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE27@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<AANLkTilL6Xi7nsfkLzcyy-v43lBuo4Xbnyni9zQs6tiH@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEEF3@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Geo,

The battery was new at the restoration ( she has not been driven in 4+
yrs :-( so it will be replaced ), as for the night, yeah being in the
northern reaches, night driving is more prevalent especially in spring
and fall obviously :-)

Now, that being said, if I was driving all day then the battery was well
charged etc, stop and go, short trips etc, not so good.  Big a$$ stock
starter comes to mind at that point :-)


David

-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 11:47 AM
To: David Templeton
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...

On 6/14/10, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:
> It was completely rebuilt when I put the car together in '02 so there
would
> be less than 10K kms on it.  I do want to add a radio.  So are you
saying I
> should have no issues :-)

I think I have similar current demands incl radio, tape deck & H4
headlamps and I have never had an issue with the dynamo keeping up.
My night driving is seldom more than an hour or two and perhaps that
depletes the battery some but with most of my driving in dry daytime
conditions it recovers fine.

Perhaps the issue is your battery -- does it also date from '02?

Geo

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jun 15 10:41:45 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 16:41:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] PDWA
In-Reply-To: <609176.20980.qm@web57614.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <839473536.4206461276620105417.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Ernest Husmann" <ehusmann53 at yahoo.com> wrote:
 
> There is no need for the PDWA.

Well said.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From davidt at opentext.com  Tue Jun 15 11:06:29 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 13:06:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <05bc01cb0ca3$c7a56920$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE27@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><8CCDAAED59C32EE-E3C-EE4F@webmail-m093.sysops.aol.com>
	<05bc01cb0ca3$c7a56920$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEF17@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

"Still, I've had a couple of dead batteries in the morning; and I just
installed that old
electric radiator fan ... "

Ah yes the electric fan that in the summer time likes to run after the
car is off :-)  ( I do have the kill switch, after a couple of jump
starts needed.

I think my usage pattern is like the one you describe in Indiana, minus
the winter driving :-)

David

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue Jun 15 11:38:17 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 13:38:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] PDWA
In-Reply-To: <2463d.6846baa6.3948fa5e@cs.com>
References: <2463d.6846baa6.3948fa5e@cs.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikrI_emFgwHfW-W_f25RTDCWnkrxi3PUNs-aBbq@mail.gmail.com>

The responses are pretty much what I was hoping to hear.  Looks like I
need to stop at a parts store and find some couplings.

Thanks for the feedback!

Brad


On Tue, Jun 15, 2010 at 11:46 AM,  <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 6/15/2010 10:08:07 AM Central Daylight Time,
> brad.kahler at 141.com writes:
>> What I'm wondering is since the warning circuit has not been wired
>> into the car is there any reason I need the PDWA installed?  Can I
>> just remove it and use couplings to tie the lines together?
>>
>> Personally I'd rather not have the PDWA in the car but if there is
>> some overriding reason to leave it in I will, which would mean I'm
>> going to have to do something about the switch leaking.
>>
>> I'm fairly certain I would notice a drop in braking performance so
>> taking the time and effort to try and install a warning circuit seems
>> useless to me.
>>
>> Thoughts anyone?
>>
> The only thing the PDWA does is light the Brake Fail Warning Light.  If you
> are not going to connect up a Brake Fail Warning Light there is no need for
> the PDWA assembly.
>
> I guess the theory is that a slow leak can cause one circuit to fail
> gradually enough for the average driver to not notice until too late.  But
most of
> us are aware of our cars to the point that we would notice.
>
> Cheers
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Tue Jun 15 11:50:57 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 13:50:57 EDT
Subject: [TR] Crash Gear Box
Message-ID: <b448.63f79587.39491781@aol.com>

Hi Bill;
 
You are right; a crash gearbox is one with no synchromesh, like the one I  
learned to drive on; 1926 Bentley 3-litre boattail. Other quirks of that car 
 were an outside gearchange, the throttle pedal in the middle, clutch on 
the  left, brake on the right. Driving a conventional car after that was a  
nightmare...
 
Tim

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 15 12:07:15 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 11:07:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEEF3@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE27@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<AANLkTilL6Xi7nsfkLzcyy-v43lBuo4Xbnyni9zQs6tiH@mail.gmail.com>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEEF3@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <691246.77698.qm@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i guess its my turn to chime in.
i just converted to an alternator in my TR3.
i bought a duralast DL7127M for about $60.00 from autozone.

i figured i would
use the pulley off a standard generator to keep the wide belt. the hole in the
center of the pulley was larger than the shaft of the alternator. this meant i
had to machine a spacer.

when offered up to the motor i found the pulley was
about 5/8" too far forward to align properly. as luck would have it the front
mounting flange has about a 3/8" thick offset behind the yoke of the mounting
flange. its aluminum so easy to cut and grind away. the other 1/4" i machined
off the back of the pulley.

it was obvious that just a bolt through the front
of the alternator was not going to be enough to stop the alternator "twisting"
when i tensioned the belt. so i fabricated a little bracket for the back of
the alternator to fasten to the back of the standard "U" mounting bracket on
the block.

to install this i have to feed the belt onto all 3 pulleys then
bolt on the alternator. a real pain when i threw the belt on the I-5.

lastly
i had to cut away the bracket that holds the steering column when the car is
in its RHD trim. the alternator bumped against it.

i would recomend you buy
the wide belt pulley from this guy on ebay. im lucky that i have accsess to a
machine shop. and he only wants 15.00 for it.
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120387267754&v
iewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
im sure it would let you change the belt
without taking the alternator off the block. but i think you will still have
to fabricate rear brackets and check alignment. i have bought the part and
when i next have a belt failure i will swap mine out.

buddy Paul bought a
"bolt on" kit from some source. we found his kit also required repositioning
to align properly and it needed a rear bracket also.

im glad i did the
conversion as its been really reliable and i can run external components from
my cigarette lighter as its now negative ground.

Frank
58 TR3 (mustard)
________________________________
From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
To: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue,
June 15, 2010 9:01:54 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...

Geo,
The battery was new at the restoration ( she has not been driven in 4+
yrs :-(
so it will be replaced ), as for the night, yeah being in the
northern
reaches, night driving is more prevalent especially in spring
and fall
obviously :-)

Now, that being said, if I was driving all day then the battery
was well
charged etc, stop and go, short trips etc, not so good.  Big a$$
stock
starter comes to mind at that point :-)


David

-----Original
Message-----
From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June
15, 2010 11:47 AM
To: David Templeton
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re:
[TR] '3a Alternator conversion...

On 6/14/10, David Templeton
<davidt at opentext.com> wrote:
> It was completely rebuilt when I put the car
together in '02 so there
would
> be less than 10K kms on it.  I do want to add
a radio.  So are you
saying I
> should have no issues :-)

I think I have
similar current demands incl radio, tape deck & H4
headlamps and I have never
had an issue with the dynamo keeping up.
My night driving is seldom more than
an hour or two and perhaps that
depletes the battery some but with most of my
driving in dry daytime
conditions it recovers fine.

Perhaps the issue is your
battery -- does it also date from '02?

Geo
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jun 15 12:25:33 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 14:25:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] PDWA
Message-ID: <20c2d.1f8c6280.39491f9d@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/15/2010 11:20:50 AM Central Daylight Time, 
brad.kahler at 141.com writes: 
> I'm assuming a standard brake line union as found in the auto parts 
> stores
> would be sufficient, or are the flares on the Triumph brake lines unique?
> 

The British brake line fittings are different from the domestic ones.  One 
has threads that run all the way down the nut and the other has an 
unthreaded portion.  But I forget which is which.  Obviously, the fully threaded nuts 
will not work properly in the fittings that are not fully threaded but the 
opposite should work OK.

So check the fittings before you take off.

Dave

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Jun 15 13:43:58 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 12:43:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fuel Pump Mounting
Message-ID: <297576.22498.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     The wire leading to my generic electric fuel pump broke right near the
entrance to the housing. I am considering replacing it and moving the
location. I originally located it under the tank, but couldn't see it or feel
it to see if it was running. I couldn't see the filter either. Then I moved it
to the front left wheel arch, but it was higher than the tank and I thought
that it vapor locked on a hot day. I put it down lower, on the frame by the
oil filter housing, but it gets drenched in oil there.
     I've been considering mounting it on the right rear inner fender wall in
the trunk. It will be easy to install, inspect, keep clean and maintain. The
wall location will help prevent it from damage from things in the trunk being
set on it. Has anyone else done this?
     I had a classic Mini Cooper for awhile and had an electronic SU fuel pump
(no points). I checked with 7ent.com (where I bought it) and they no longer
carry them. The do have the ones with points, but I think that it might be a
maintenance problem. I am thinking about buying one of these:

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Jun 15 13:50:30 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 12:50:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fuel Pumps
Message-ID: <355504.13354.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Sorry about the last email. Sent by accident too early.
     The wire leading to my generic electric fuel pump broke right near the
entrance to the housing. I am considering replacing it and moving the
location. I originally located it under the tank, but couldn't see the filter
or
 feel it to see if the pump was running.  
Then I moved it to the front
left wheel arch, but it was higher than the
 tank and I thought that it vapor
locked on a hot day. I put it down 
lower, on the frame by the oil
 filter
housing, but it gets drenched in oil there.
     I've 
been considering mounting it on the left rear inner fender wall in
the 
trunk. It will be easy to install, inspect, keep clean and maintain. The
wall location will help prevent it from damage from things in the trunk
 being
set on it. Has anyone else done this?
     I had a classic 
Mini
 Cooper for awhile and had an electronic SU fuel
pump (no points). I 
checked with 7ent.com (where I 
bought it) and they no
longer carry them. The do have the ones with 
points, but I think that it
might be a maintenance problem. I am 
thinking about buying one of these:
    
     http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=3474

     It looks like a good quality German made pump. Does anyone else have a
recommendation?
     TIA,    

     -Bill

From tr6parts at charter.net  Tue Jun 15 13:51:56 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 15:51:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] PDWA
References: <2463d.6846baa6.3948fa5e@cs.com>
	<AANLkTikrI_emFgwHfW-W_f25RTDCWnkrxi3PUNs-aBbq@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EA4AF18ED15E4EDD84A8B71BB7A0C925@Alan>

I think it would be just as easy to replace the O-rings in the PDWA, then 
run around  looking for special fittings.

Al
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler at 141.com>
To: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] PDWA


> The responses are pretty much what I was hoping to hear.  Looks like I
> need to stop at a parts store and find some couplings.
>
> Thanks for the feedback!
>
> Brad
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 15, 2010 at 11:46 AM,  <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>> In a message dated 6/15/2010 10:08:07 AM Central Daylight Time,
>> brad.kahler at 141.com writes:
>>> What I'm wondering is since the warning circuit has not been wired
>>> into the car is there any reason I need the PDWA installed?  Can I
>>> just remove it and use couplings to tie the lines together?
>>>
>>> Personally I'd rather not have the PDWA in the car but if there is
>>> some overriding reason to leave it in I will, which would mean I'm
>>> going to have to do something about the switch leaking.
>>>
>>> I'm fairly certain I would notice a drop in braking performance so
>>> taking the time and effort to try and install a warning circuit seems
>>> useless to me.
>>>
>>> Thoughts anyone?
>>>
>> The only thing the PDWA does is light the Brake Fail Warning Light.  If 
>> you
>> are not going to connect up a Brake Fail Warning Light there is no need 
>> for
>> the PDWA assembly.
>>
>> I guess the theory is that a slow leak can cause one circuit to fail
>> gradually enough for the average driver to not notice until too late. 
>> But
> most of
>> us are aware of our cars to the point that we would notice.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue Jun 15 14:03:40 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 16:03:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] PDWA
In-Reply-To: <20c2d.1f8c6280.39491f9d@cs.com>
References: <20c2d.1f8c6280.39491f9d@cs.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinvqUTC2bstrs90R01X8mW0vy-q4i2AJOueTvXf@mail.gmail.com>

Thats good go know.  I'll do some comparisons tonight and see if I can
find the differences.

Brad


> The British brake line fittings are different from the domestic ones.  One
> has threads that run all the way down the nut and the other has an
> unthreaded portion.  But I forget which is which.  Obviously, the fully
threaded nuts
> will not work properly in the fittings that are not fully threaded but the
> opposite should work OK.
>
> So check the fittings before you take off.
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun 15 14:23:46 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 13:23:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <691246.77698.qm@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE27@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<AANLkTilL6Xi7nsfkLzcyy-v43lBuo4Xbnyni9zQs6tiH@mail.gmail.com>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEEF3@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<691246.77698.qm@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00c901cb0cc8$a8fa9ca0$faefd5e0$@rr.com>

> it was obvious that just a bolt through the front
> of the alternator was not going to be enough to stop the alternator
> "twisting"
> when i tensioned the belt.

Good thing that was obvious to you, Frank.  It took me several years to
figure it out!  Mine did not twist under static conditions, but apparently
would resonate and vibrate at certain engine rpm and/or road speeds.  The
result was short belt life, until I figured out to run a single bolt through
both of the original generator mounting points, with a piece of pipe to act
as spacer between them.

Odd that you found the original pulley bore too large, I had exactly the
opposite problem.  Had to pay a machine shop to bore it out for me.  My
plans are to use a narrow belt conversion (with harmonic dampener) next time
around.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun 15 14:29:46 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 13:29:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEF17@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><8CCD962EC47B748-20B0-446AF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE27@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><8CCDAAED59C32EE-E3C-EE4F@webmail-m093.sysops.aol.com>
	<05bc01cb0ca3$c7a56920$0301a8c0@randall>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEF17@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <00ca01cb0cc9$7f812140$7e8363c0$@rr.com>

> Ah yes the electric fan that in the summer time likes to run after the
> car is off :-)  

Actually, in the past I have kept it wired so it can only run with the key
on.  Haven't completed the wiring yet this time, but I see no reason to
change that aspect.  Although the temperature does rise somewhat due to
"heat soak" (heat from the engine continues to warm the coolant after the
engine is shut off), it never caused me a problem in the past.

The only likely reason to change, IMO, is if percolation in the carbs
becomes a problem.  But I already have one of Joe A's heat shields on hand,
which should be a better solution than running the fan with the engine off.

-- Randall 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jun 15 14:48:22 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 16:48:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] Crash Gear Box
Message-ID: <36559.9fa82f9.39494116@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/15/2010 1:52:13 PM Central Daylight Time, 
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com writes: 
> You are right; a crash gearbox is one with no synchromesh, like the one I 
>  
> learned to drive on; 1926 Bentley 3-litre boattail. Other quirks of that 
> car 
> were an outside gearchange, the throttle pedal in the middle, clutch on 
> the  left, brake on the right. Driving a conventional car after that was a 
>  
> nightmare...
> 
 I guess driving anything after a 1926 Bentley 3-Litre Boattail would be a 
nightmare.  Or at least a little bit dull.

;-)

Dave

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Jun 15 15:20:51 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 17:20:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRA
Message-ID: <BAY123-W5FB711642FFB091478D59BADD0@phx.gbl>

Anybody else on the list going to the TRA meet in Wooster Ohio this week?

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun 15 16:18:48 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 15:18:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fuel Pumps
In-Reply-To: <355504.13354.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <355504.13354.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <014001cb0cd8$ba6c7390$2f455ab0$@rr.com>

>      It looks like a good quality German made pump. Does anyone else
> have a
> recommendation?

I much prefer the little rectangular Facet electric pump.  In addition to
being solid state, it has no diaphragm to be incompatible or wear out (and
leak fuel in unpleasant places).  It's also quite a bit cheaper than the
pump you linked to, even in "aircraft grade":
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php

The downside of this pump is that they are kind of noisy, and make noise all
the time they have power.  If bolted directly to sheet metal, the metal will
amplify and conduct the noise, which can get kind of irritating.  So some
sort of vibration dampening mount is a good idea, IMO, for a permanent
installation.  On the Stag, I used rubber grommets and bolts to fasten the
pump to a strip of flat iron, and then another set of grommets and bolts to
fasten to the stock SU mounting points.  The result worked out quite well, I
have to listen closely to tell if the pump is running when the engine is
off, and cannot hear it at all when the engine is running.

Although it is recommended that the pump be mounted at fuel level, the one I
put on my motorhome gen set was closer to 24" above the bottom of the fuel
tank, and still worked fine.  The one in the Stag is also maybe 18" above
the bottom of the tank, and works just fine.

They don't like dirty fuel though, so I would definitely recommend a filter
on the inlet.  Fortunately there is a commonly available filter that doubles
as the inlet fitting (5/16" hose barb on one side, 1/8 NPT fitting on the
other).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRM-G22A
(should be available at O'Reilly, Pep Boys, maybe even Wally/K Mart).

Used with the filter, I've never seen one of these pumps fail.  Although I'm
also fond of the original mechanical pump in the TR, I keep a Facet in the
spare tire as a "road side spare".

-- Randall 

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Jun 15 11:04:43 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 12:04:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re:  A milestone)
References: <dc4b.103fa7ec.39477c50@aol.com><955431.36993.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<W49M1e0070HYFJw0549NiS@charter.net>
Message-ID: <220BAB49FBB348EC99788C0471186782@trigeni.com>

Yes, the Up line goes to the major terminus (London, say) and the Down line 
leads from the major terminus.

Mike (ex-customer of the LTS&R)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Scarbrough" <fishplate at charter.net>
To: "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] UK Cottages & Villages (was Re: A milestone)


> At 11:20 AM 6/14/2010, you wrote:
>>We Brits don't
>>drive *on* a lane - like on a highway. You drive *up* it or *down* it.
>
> Like taking the train Up or Down?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun 15 16:33:14 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 15:33:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] PDWA
In-Reply-To: <20c2d.1f8c6280.39491f9d@cs.com>
References: <20c2d.1f8c6280.39491f9d@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000301cb0cda$bed030f0$3c7092d0$@rr.com>

> The British brake line fittings are different from the domestic ones.
> One
> has threads that run all the way down the nut and the other has an
> unthreaded portion.  But I forget which is which.  

The British fittings have the unthreaded portion.  They also have SAE
threads, while many "domestic" cars today use metric threads.

There are some good photos at
http://store.fedhillusa.com/britishgirlingbrakelinenutsandfittings.aspx

-- Randall 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Jun 15 17:08:31 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 23:08:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DEE26@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <363549148.6041421276643311017.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Oh dear.  Memory, they say, is the second thing to go.  I forget what the first was....

As I seem to recall, I took the pully off the generator and it installed on the GM alternator, which is the unit that Dan Masters recommended and is the common one for the conversion (Don't ask, I forgot the number!).

I just checked my receipt box, and it was the stock pulley.    


----- Original Message -----
From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
To: terryrs at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 10:06:08 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RE: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...

Terry 

What did you do to still use the thick belt?  Also, more for the other listeners on this call :-)  Has anyone tried the denso alternators, they are a much smaller package.  My '95 K2500 had one but it had the serpentine belt pulley on it so I wonder about the conversion.  


David 

-----Original Message-----
From: terryrs at comcast.net [mailto:terryrs at comcast.net] 
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 6:22 PM
To: David Templeton
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...

>As I get back into the '3a, I think an alternator conversion is needed,
>while the jenny was cool for looks, it simply didn't provide the power
>to needed for normal usage and didn't cycle the battery enough.  Is
>there webpage that is recent on installing a GM/Delco three wire
>alternator.  Also, is it advisable to go the thin belt conversion at the
>same time?  Where can I get replacement pulleys then for the water pump
>and crank?

I'm coming in on this late, but what the hay, why change the life cycle now, eh?

I stayed stock with a rebuilt generator...for a time.  ..Until I ran the car in the fall, driving to work in the morning in the dark, driving home at night in the dark, and finding that using the lights and running the motor left me with a dead battery after, I forget, two weeks?

Did the GM alternator conversion and never regretted it.  Well, except when I discovered one of the wires I'd used didn't stand up to vibration because the strands were too big, leaving me beside the road fabricating a new connector.  Now cured and forgotten.

I didn't bother with the thin belt conversion, but don't see why not.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Tue Jun 15 18:05:45 2010
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 20:05:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TRA
Message-ID: <b837b.17f6fab2.39496f59@aol.com>

Anybody  else on the list going to the TRA meet in Wooster Ohio this  week?

Marty

Lou Metelko and co-pilot will depart Auburn, Indiana early Thursday  
morning.  Planned route is National Highway 30 from Indiana line to  Wooster.  
Should be there about 10AM with nose of TR2 covered with suicidal  bugs.
 
Big news concerning TRA 2011 location!
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jun 15 18:15:14 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 20:15:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] PDWA
In-Reply-To: <EA4AF18ED15E4EDD84A8B71BB7A0C925@Alan>
References: <2463d.6846baa6.3948fa5e@cs.com><AANLkTikrI_emFgwHfW-W_f25RTDCWnkrxi3PUNs-aBbq@mail.gmail.com>
	<EA4AF18ED15E4EDD84A8B71BB7A0C925@Alan>
Message-ID: <178BC9E9FC7B4E13B46A3774A02E6C28@BobPC>

This has been an interesting thread for a couple of reasons: 1. the 
consensus is to disable/bypass/eliminate the PDWA which is a safety device 
that tells you when one of your two braking systems has failed. 2. We had 
the same discussion in 6-Pack and the consensus was the opposite because 
they're so easy to fix and they are a safety device and 3. Moss Motors TV 
shows how simple they are to fix. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oI2yrRCUVI 
After watching the Moss video, even I now understand how and why they work.

I'm with Al on this one.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 3:51 PM
Cc: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] PDWA

> I think it would be just as easy to replace the O-rings in the PDWA, then 
> run around  looking for special fittings.
>
> Al

From chandler.rick at comcast.net  Tue Jun 15 18:40:49 2010
From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 17:40:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fuel Pumps
Message-ID: <5399EC23F3274DE2A5B1FA392A511D77@ricksoffice>

Like Randall, I have a small Facet pump on my TR3A that I mounted on the
frame just behind the driver's side rear wheel. I installed a shut-off
switch (with a big red knob) and filter between the pump and the tank. The
entire string of stuff is less than 12 inches in length and is easily
visible when peeking behind the wheel. I mounted the pump via elastic
bumpers, so the pump sound is audible but not obnoxious. For appearances I
kept the original mechanical pump in place (without the lever; I like
looking at the sight glass from time to time) and will install a blanking
plate between the pump and the engine the next time I'm under the car.

 

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1972 Norton Commando 750 Combat

1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Tue Jun 15 22:22:42 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 21:22:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Supercharger for TRactor Engine
Message-ID: <000001cb0d0b$90ae8970$b20b9c50$@rr.com>

Hi Folks,

Just read the "British Motoring" from Moss Motors and find their
supercharger prototype as a eye opening and desired option.

 

I have a recent (2003- or about 20K miles)  rebuild of my TR4A and it's
running better than ever , now that I took out the Pertronix and Lucas
Sports coil.  I drive it to work every day. So, contact points, a standard
coil, top mounted distributor wires with NGK plugs seem to work the best.
Maybe the original designers had it correct.

 

But, I'm really interested in the supercharger upgrade that Moss is
experimenting with. Does anybody have any info of what's involved? Costs?

 

Johnnie

'67 Tr4A

'71 Volvo 1800E

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Jun 15 22:39:11 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 22:39:11 -0600
Subject: [TR] PDWA
In-Reply-To: <178BC9E9FC7B4E13B46A3774A02E6C28@BobPC>
References: <2463d.6846baa6.3948fa5e@cs.com><AANLkTikrI_emFgwHfW-W_f25RTDCWnkrxi3PUNs-aBbq@mail.gmail.com>
	<EA4AF18ED15E4EDD84A8B71BB7A0C925@Alan>
	<178BC9E9FC7B4E13B46A3774A02E6C28@BobPC>
Message-ID: <5A9A2DAA-1FBF-4FE0-AF49-8B93B6D80E87@comcast.net>

Me too.  I'm with Al.  Thanks Bob for stepping up  with another opinion.

Offline I sent Al and Brad this note:  "Since Al mentioned that option  
I'll offer up that I have some PDWA o-rings that I'll be happy to send  
you (I think I bought a shit load of them bec they were cheaper by the  
100) I'll have to go back out to the shop but if you decide to just  
stop the leaks and keep the pdwa (they do look cool I think being a  
nice looking hunk of bronze in the engine bay and confusing the masses  
as to what the hell it could be) you'll want to use new o-rings and  
gently sand all the fittings and sleeves, etc. that go into the PDWA  
so that the coupling of the bits is optimum.  I didn't do that step  
the first time and paid the price."

Though I'd offer up what worked for me.  I have a vender here in  
Denver that has the correct o-rings for PDWAs in the right material  
for brake fluid and I may have some extras I could share but will have  
to look for them to be sure.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jun 15, 2010, at 6:15 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:

> This has been an interesting thread for a couple of reasons: 1. the  
> consensus is to disable/bypass/eliminate the PDWA which is a safety  
> device that tells you when one of your two braking systems has  
> failed. 2. We had the same discussion in 6-Pack and the consensus  
> was the opposite because they're so easy to fix and they are a  
> safety device and 3. Moss Motors TV shows how simple they are to  
> fix. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oI2yrRCUVI After watching the  
> Moss video, even I now understand how and why they work.
>
> I'm with Al on this one.
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 3:51 PM
> Cc: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] PDWA
>
>> I think it would be just as easy to replace the O-rings in the  
>> PDWA, then run around  looking for special fittings.
>>
>> Al
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Jun 16 05:41:03 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 11:41:03 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
Message-ID: <435686.58547.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Listers, feedback on two items if possible? Sorry this isn't Triumph related
but I don't own Triumphs now.
QUERY ONE. Last year on the Triumph
Trans-AmeriCan Drive, two or three people in different places annointed "uncle
jack's" windscreen with something called "Rain-Ex" - think that was the
spelling? It certainly did the job! I've just come across a product (of US
manufacture) in the UK called NANO WINDSCREEN PROTECTOR. The claims made of it
seem very similar to "Rain-Ex" and I wondered if anyone had experience of NANO
and if they'd be able to give me their thoughts off-list before I commit to
buy here.
QUERY TWO. "uncle jack" was also eqipped in his toolkit with quite
the best artificial chamois washleather I've *ever* used. It was fantastic,
but time and a fading memory makes the brand-name elusive. I bought two from a
Pep-Boys outlet to bring home but somehow they never made it into our luggage.
Maybe they're still lurking in "uncle jack's" boot (Phil Ethier?) and if so,
keep 'em :) Just need to know of a US website who would be willing to ship one
or two over to me in the UK. I've tried (and failed) at different times to buy
stuff out of the US with shipping to a UK address and paying in $'s and the
'exporting' seems to crash the sellers systems. Buying some Rain-Ex was such
an example. If I lived in the US, no problem. Elsewhere, - er, um, no we won't
sell outside the US.

Thanks, Jonmac

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Jun 16 06:08:17 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 08:08:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Supercharger for TRactor Engine
In-Reply-To: <000001cb0d0b$90ae8970$b20b9c50$@rr.com>
References: <000001cb0d0b$90ae8970$b20b9c50$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <3C667CEF968A4B21BF3E6D31076D6442@BobPC>

Judging by their existing systems for MGs and TRs, you can figure on $3550 - 
$4000. There's a few guys in 6-Pack with it on their TR6 who like the set up 
but it's a lot of $$$$$ for the HP increase.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 12:22 AM
To: "'triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Supercharger for TRactor Engine

> Hi Folks,
>
> Just read the "British Motoring" from Moss Motors and find their
> supercharger prototype as a eye opening and desired option.
>
> But, I'm really interested in the supercharger upgrade that Moss is
> experimenting with. Does anybody have any info of what's involved? Costs?

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jun 16 06:45:55 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 08:45:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] PDWA
Message-ID: <4d46b.3e5ca075.394a2183@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/15/2010 8:08:47 PM Central Daylight Time, 
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: 
> This has been an interesting thread for a couple of reasons: 1. the 
> consensus is to disable/bypass/eliminate the PDWA which is a safety device 
> 
> that tells you when one of your two braking systems has failed. 2. We had 
> the same discussion in 6-Pack and the consensus was the opposite because 
> they're so easy to fix and they are a safety device and 3. Moss Motors TV 
> shows how simple they are to fix. 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oI2yrRCUVI 
> After watching the Moss video, even I now understand how and why they 
> work.
> 

I'd be with you too, Bob, except for one thing: What's the point if you 
don't have the warning light.  The car in question is a TR4 with a TR6 braking 
system retrofitted.  There is no brake warning failure light and no wiring.  
If Brad were willing to install the warning lamp and wiring then it would 
be far better to fix vs bypass.

But even without the PDWA the TR6 dual circuit brakes are an upgrade from 
the single circuit TR4 brakes.  

Cheers

Dave

From opposumking at verizon.net  Wed Jun 16 08:19:43 2010
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 10:19:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
References: <435686.58547.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8D2948031A90484FA2EDAE8EB1CE9420@mde.state.md.us>

Looks like you can get rain-x there in the UK.

http://www.rainx.co.uk/

Not familar with Nanoauto products, 
http://www.nanoprotect.co.uk/nano-for-car.html which is what I think you are 
talking about.  It reads comparably to Aquapel, which is popular here.  I've 
tried it and been rather under-impressed so far.

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 16 08:37:29 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 14:37:29 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fuel Pumps
In-Reply-To: <355504.13354.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <355504.13354.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W164F8265BBB8F0EDAC63DCE5DE0@phx.gbl>

I welded a small flange onto the top of the frame of my TR3A in front of the
shock housing.  The flange was a piece of angle iron I had pre-drilled to
receive a fuel pump that appears similar to the one you like.  This keeps the
pump under the tank and inboard of the frame for safety.

Best regards,

Tom


_________________________________________________________________
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:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jun 16 08:42:02 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 14:42:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
In-Reply-To: <435686.58547.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <488632192.4598161276699322967.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> I've just come across a product
> (of US
> manufacture) in the UK called NANO WINDSCREEN PROTECTOR. The claims
> made of it
> seem very similar to "Rain-Ex" and I wondered if anyone had experience
> of NANO
> and if they'd be able to give me their thoughts off-list before I
> commit to
> buy here.

I love Rain-X.  You haven't lived until you see how fast water flies off an Esprit windshield.  It's so comical you have to get past it fast so you look at the road, not the watershow.  On a TR4 the effect is a little more subtle.  Dunno about this NANO stuff.


> QUERY TWO. "uncle jack" was also eqipped in his toolkit with quite
> the best artificial chamois washleather I've *ever* used. It was
> fantastic,
> but time and a fading memory makes the brand-name elusive. I bought
> two from a
> Pep-Boys outlet to bring home but somehow they never made it into our
> luggage.
> Maybe they're still lurking in "uncle jack's" boot (Phil Ethier?) and
> if so,
> keep 'em :) 

There is one of them, in a sort of squarish clear-plastic tube.  Don't remember what the name printed on it is.  Have not opened the package.  Don't know if it has been used or not.  I will try to remember to check the name when I get home.

The original was probably sourced by Joe Pawlak, perhaps at Blair's Farm and Fleet...

> Thanks, Jonmac

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven  FOR SALE
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jun 16 09:52:00 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 08:52:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
In-Reply-To: <488632192.4598161276699322967.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <435686.58547.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<488632192.4598161276699322967.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7D74E300B6554134B80B72E6412D94F0@joepentiumnew>

A word of caution:  Never let Rain-X set full strength on paint.  It will
eat it in a manner similar to brake fluid.  Ask my daughter how we found
that out!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 7:42 AM
To: John Macartney
Cc: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph

----- "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> I've just come across a product
> (of US
> manufacture) in the UK called NANO WINDSCREEN PROTECTOR. The claims
> made of it
> seem very similar to "Rain-Ex" and I wondered if anyone had experience
> of NANO
> and if they'd be able to give me their thoughts off-list before I
> commit to
> buy here.

I love Rain-X.  You haven't lived until you see how fast water flies off an
Esprit windshield.  It's so comical you have to get past it fast so you look
at the road, not the watershow.  On a TR4 the effect is a little more
subtle.  Dunno about this NANO stuff.


> QUERY TWO. "uncle jack" was also eqipped in his toolkit with quite
> the best artificial chamois washleather I've *ever* used. It was
> fantastic,
> but time and a fading memory makes the brand-name elusive. I bought
> two from a
> Pep-Boys outlet to bring home but somehow they never made it into our
> luggage.
> Maybe they're still lurking in "uncle jack's" boot (Phil Ethier?) and
> if so,
> keep 'em :) 

There is one of them, in a sort of squarish clear-plastic tube.  Don't
remember what the name printed on it is.  Have not opened the package.
Don't know if it has been used or not.  I will try to remember to check the
name when I get home.

The original was probably sourced by Joe Pawlak, perhaps at Blair's Farm and
Fleet...

> Thanks, Jonmac

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven  FOR SALE
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Wed Jun 16 10:14:23 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 12:14:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] Crash Gear Box
Message-ID: <f2bb9.2ed01440.394a525f@aol.com>

Indeed a great car to learn to drive on, and yes, after that, nearly  
everything seemed a bit dull. Most frustrating, however, is the fact that my dad  
sold the car in excellent condition in the early 1970's for 400 quid. I've 
just  seen a similar vehicle sell for 400,000. After selling the Bentley, he 
bought a  non-runner TR3A for 200 quid and it took us a year to get it 
roadworthy.  He sold it three years later for 300 quid, when we moved to the 
U.S.   Wouldn't it be nice if our cars were still worth 50-75% of the value of 
a 1920's  Bentley???
 
Tim
 
In a message dated 6/15/2010 5:36:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:

I guess  driving anything after a 1926 Bentley 3-Litre Boattail would be a  
nightmare.  Or at least a little bit  dull.

;-)

Dave

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jun 16 10:25:13 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 10:25:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
In-Reply-To: <8D2948031A90484FA2EDAE8EB1CE9420@mde.state.md.us>
References: <435686.58547.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<8D2948031A90484FA2EDAE8EB1CE9420@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <E92C2A8E76504D90BA9F4EEFDD83E0BA@bboffice>

Just curious for myself as the local wash offers Rain-X treatment.  Does
this coating affect the efficiency of the windscreen wipers?

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Nolan
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 8:20 AM
To: John Macartney; Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph

Looks like you can get rain-x there in the UK.

http://www.rainx.co.uk/

Not familar with Nanoauto products,
http://www.nanoprotect.co.uk/nano-for-car.html which is what I think you are
talking about.  It reads comparably to Aquapel, which is popular here.  I've
tried it and been rather under-impressed so far.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jun 16 10:28:39 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 12:28:39 EDT
Subject: [TR] Crash Gear Box
Message-ID: <efa07.6cf22f1c.394a55b7@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/16/2010 11:14:23 AM Central Daylight Time, 
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com writes: 
> Indeed a great car to learn to drive on, and yes, after that, nearly 
> everything seemed a bit dull. Most frustrating, however, is the fact that my 
> dad sold the car in excellent condition in the early 1970's for 400 quid. 
> I've just seen a similar vehicle sell for 400,000. After selling the Bentley, 
> he bought a non-runner TR3A for 200 quid and it took us a year to get it 
> roadworthy. He sold it three years later for 300 quid, when we moved to the 
> U.S.  Wouldn't it be nice if our cars were still worth 50-75% of the value 
> of a 1920's Bentley???
>  
> 
> 
Back in the early 70's my dad had an opportunity to buy a gull wing 
Mercedes for $6000.  The engine was out and apart.  He said there was no way a 
non-running car was worth $6000.

I didn't have $6000 at the time either.

Dave

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Jun 16 11:16:58 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 13:16:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] PDWA
In-Reply-To: <4d46b.3e5ca075.394a2183@cs.com>
References: <4d46b.3e5ca075.394a2183@cs.com>
Message-ID: <6578A65DB37B46F49CBA26A8669DD9F4@BobPC>

That's what I get for skimming.......... umm......maybe add the warning 
light to really get him frustrated?

--------------------------------------------------
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 8:45 AM
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] PDWA

> In a message dated 6/15/2010 8:08:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
> 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:
>> This has been an interesting thread for a couple of reasons: 1. the
>> consensus is to disable/bypass/eliminate the PDWA which is a safety 
>> device
>>
>> that tells you when one of your two braking systems has failed. 2. We had
>> the same discussion in 6-Pack and the consensus was the opposite because
>> they're so easy to fix and they are a safety device and 3. Moss Motors TV
>> shows how simple they are to fix.
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oI2yrRCUVI
>> After watching the Moss video, even I now understand how and why they
>> work.
>>
>
> I'd be with you too, Bob, except for one thing: What's the point if you
> don't have the warning light.  The car in question is a TR4 with a TR6 
> braking
> system retrofitted.  There is no brake warning failure light and no 
> wiring.
> If Brad were willing to install the warning lamp and wiring then it would
> be far better to fix vs bypass.
>
> But even without the PDWA the TR6 dual circuit brakes are an upgrade from
> the single circuit TR4 brakes.
>
> Cheers
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jun 16 11:39:49 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 10:39:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
In-Reply-To: <E92C2A8E76504D90BA9F4EEFDD83E0BA@bboffice>
References: <435686.58547.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<8D2948031A90484FA2EDAE8EB1CE9420@mde.state.md.us>
	<E92C2A8E76504D90BA9F4EEFDD83E0BA@bboffice>
Message-ID: <013701cb0d7a$ec10db50$c43291f0$@rr.com>

> Just curious for myself as the local wash offers Rain-X treatment.
> Does
> this coating affect the efficiency of the windscreen wipers?

Rain-X is a brand name; they offer several different (but related) glass
treatments.  Some work well with wipers, some do not (in my experience).

But my guess is that anything your local wash applies will work just about
as well as the "wax" they sell you.  Ie looks good for a day or two, then
you can't tell the difference.

I got some of the stuff that you put in your windshield washer system; which
worked well at first but eventually built up a tarry film on the glass that
was virtually impossible to remove.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jun 16 11:53:27 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 10:53:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
In-Reply-To: <435686.58547.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <435686.58547.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <013801cb0d7c$d3a8ec40$7afac4c0$@rr.com>

> I've just come across a product (of
> US
> manufacture) in the UK called NANO WINDSCREEN PROTECTOR.

I've just been trying to figure out who makes this, and what it might be
called in the US.  Apparently it's made by RainAway, who are based in
Malaysia, and claim their products are manufactured in Germany.

http://www.rainaway.com.my/sub-ab.html

-- Randall 

From kinneyjr at msn.com  Wed Jun 16 12:21:39 2010
From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 14:21:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for Chrome Plater?
Message-ID: <BAY132-W2B3B71E8B2A42DFC878FAC3DE0@phx.gbl>

I think I should exercise due diligence and get three quotes before sending my
TR4/4A rear bumper and over-riders off to the chromer.  I received a quote
from Librandi's in PA.  Are there any other good outfits to consider east of
the Mississippi?



Thanks in advance,

Jeremy

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
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:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From thebujas at comcast.net  Wed Jun 16 12:32:21 2010
From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 13:32:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21266.1276703468.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OCEDIGMAOBEDBCIEABIPOEPECOAA.thebujas@comcast.net>

John Macartney asked,

> QUERY TWO. "uncle jack" was also eqipped in his toolkit with quite
> the best artificial chamois washleather I've *ever* used. It was
> fantastic, but time and a fading memory makes the brand-name elusive.
> I bought two from a Pep-Boys outlet to bring home but somehow they
> never made it into our luggage.
> Maybe they're still lurking in "uncle jack's" boot (Phil Ethier?) and
> if so, keep 'em :)

and Phil Ethier replied
: There is one of them, in a sort of squarish clear-plastic tube.  Don't
: remember what the name printed on it is.

This sounds like "The Absorber". In case the link doesn't survive word wrap,
a Google search on "emgee marketing" will give this as one of the top links:
https://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/%2835y0cc553hrtq33tw0o4ppjg%29/productDeta
ils.aspx?SKU=87679

Same color as a hide chamois, but it absorbs a lot more water.  It's stored
wet in a translucent plastic tube that's D shaped.  I first started seeing
them in 1995 when we hosted the VTR Convention in Rockford.

It's made in Japan, with the package design trademarked by Shima American
Corporation.  My package says is was distributed by Emgee(!) Marketing in
Clarendon Hills, IL.

I use them for car washing and boat cleaning, and I think swimmers and
divers use them as a superabsorbent towel that you can wring out and use
over and over again.

Highly recommended, and I wouldn't be surprised if Joe included it in UJ's
toolkit.

Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6

From opposumking at verizon.net  Wed Jun 16 12:35:15 2010
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 14:35:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
References: <435686.58547.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<8D2948031A90484FA2EDAE8EB1CE9420@mde.state.md.us>
	<E92C2A8E76504D90BA9F4EEFDD83E0BA@bboffice>
Message-ID: <B9AD733CAB5A404BA87062707D1734F5@mde.state.md.us>

> Just curious for myself as the local wash offers Rain-X treatment.  Does
> this coating affect the efficiency of the windscreen wipers?

In my experience, yes.  And not positively.  To various degrees I've always 
found it to streak and smear behind the wiper blades, compromising 
visibility. 

From carlsereda at aol.com  Wed Jun 16 12:47:12 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 11:47:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rain-X
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1276711201.29569.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B99337FD.750E.48C5.AE94.C69E0895E822@aol.com>

Hi Listers,
I used Rain-X on my daily driver for a dozen years and am happy with 
it. It is a 2-part system. First you use a cleaning compound (like 
toothpaste) to clean glass then you apply the repellant (like 
silicone). It beads water so well you almost don't need to put the 
wipers on as water easily rolls off. Over time you do need the wipers 
and eventually, say one or two winter's time, you're thinking about 
doing the 2-step chore again. This last winter I even bought Rain-X 
branded wiper blades but I need a few more winters to determine value 
of the full Rain-X combination.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

On Jun 16, 2010, at 11:00:01 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

Rain-X is a brand name; they offer several different (but related) 
glass
treatments. Some work well with wipers, some do not (in my experience).

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Wed Jun 16 12:49:39 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 14:49:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
Message-ID: <000001cb0d84$ad1cc8a0$075659e0$@net>

Bill wrote:

>Just curious for myself as the local wash offers Rain-X treatment.  

>Does this coating affect the efficiency of the windscreen wipers?

 

Bill -

  With a proper coating of Rain-X, you don't need wipers.

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland,NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U   

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Jun 16 13:04:36 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 12:04:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] "I Shudda" - Was Crash Gear Box
Message-ID: <127454.38993.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     When I just turned 16 in 1975 I got a Boy Scouts tour of a Corvette shop
in Fresno called "Corvettes Unlimited". They had a '56 vette (yellow with
white coves ISTR) that someone had done poor rear fender flares on for $2200.
My dad (wisely) said "There is no way a teenage werewolf like yourself is
getting a Corvette". I had the $2200 at the time. I am still muttering about
that one.
     He wouldn't let me buy a TR3 either.
 
     Bill in Tehachapi - who originally started the Crash Gear Box thread...

From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Subject:
 Re: [TR] Crash Gear Box
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID:
 <efa07.6cf22f1c.394a55b7 at cs.com>
Content-Type:
 text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

In a message dated 6/16/2010 
11:14:23 AM Central 
Daylight Time,
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com
 writes:
> Indeed a great car to learn to drive on, and yes, 
after that, nearly
> everything seemed a bit dull. Most 
frustrating, however, is the fact that
my
> dad sold the car in 
excellent condition in the early 1970's for 400 quid.
> I've just
 seen a similar vehicle sell for 400,000. After selling the
Bentley,
>
 he bought a non-runner TR3A for 200 quid and it took us a year to get 
it
> roadworthy. He sold it three years later for 300 quid, when 
we moved to the
> U.S.  Wouldn't it be nice if our cars were 
still worth 50-75% of the value
> of a 1920's Bentley???
> 
>
>
Back in the early 70's my dad had an opportunity 
to buy a gull wing
Mercedes for $6000.  The engine was out and 
apart.  He said there was no way
a
non-running car was worth $6000.

I
 didn't have $6000 at the time either.

Dave

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 16 13:12:44 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 12:12:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
In-Reply-To: <OCEDIGMAOBEDBCIEABIPOEPECOAA.thebujas@comcast.net>
References: <OCEDIGMAOBEDBCIEABIPOEPECOAA.thebujas@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <156179.81110.qm@web120016.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

and whats wrong with the sham wow?




________________________________
From:
Ann and Tim Buja <thebujas at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed,
June 16, 2010 11:32:21 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
John Macartney asked,

> QUERY TWO. "uncle jack" was also eqipped in his
toolkit with quite
> the best artificial chamois washleather I've *ever* used.
It was
> fantastic, but time and a fading memory makes the brand-name elusive.
> I bought two from a Pep-Boys outlet to bring home but somehow they
> never
made it into our luggage.
> Maybe they're still lurking in "uncle jack's" boot
(Phil Ethier?) and
> if so, keep 'em :)

and Phil Ethier replied
: There is
one of them, in a sort of squarish clear-plastic tube.  Don't
: remember what
the name printed on it is.

This sounds like "The Absorber". In case the link
doesn't survive word wrap,
a Google search on "emgee marketing" will give this
as one of the top links:
https://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/%2835y0cc553hrtq33tw0o4ppjg%29/productDeta
ils.aspx?SKU=87679

Same color as a hide chamois, but it absorbs a lot more
water.  It's stored
wet in a translucent plastic tube that's D shaped.  I
first started seeing
them in 1995 when we hosted the VTR Convention in
Rockford.

It's made in Japan, with the package design trademarked by Shima
American
Corporation.  My package says is was distributed by Emgee(!)
Marketing in
Clarendon Hills, IL.

I use them for car washing and boat
cleaning, and I think swimmers and
divers use them as a superabsorbent towel
that you can wring out and use
over and over again.

Highly recommended, and I
wouldn't be surprised if Joe included it in UJ's
toolkit.

Tim Buja -
Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jun 16 13:16:17 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 15:16:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] PDWA
Message-ID: <1055b2.4dc03c7c.394a7d01@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/16/2010 12:17:05 PM Central Daylight Time, 
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: 
> That's what I get for skimming.......... umm......maybe add the warning 
> light to really get him frustrated?
> 

I think most of us on the list would notice if one brake circuit stopped 
working no matter how gradually it failed.  ANYBODY would notice a sudden 
catastrophic failure so that's not the issue.  But many commuters don't pay 
attention to such things (what with cell phones, PDA's and all those other, more 
important things to do behind the wheel) and could loose one circuit and 
not notice in daily driving.  It is for these folks the light was implemented.

But a solenoid with a sharp point embedded in the seat might be 
entertaining.

Dave

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Wed Jun 16 13:40:57 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 15:40:57 EDT
Subject: [TR] "I Shudda" - Was Crash Gear Box
Message-ID: <885.10029914.394a82c9@aol.com>

I think your dad might've been right regarding the Corvette; sounds like a  
teenager's high-speed coffin to me.
 
Tim

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Jun 16 14:28:06 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 16:28:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] PDWA
In-Reply-To: <1055b2.4dc03c7c.394a7d01@cs.com>
References: <1055b2.4dc03c7c.394a7d01@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20100616162806.ACH94302@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Dave1massey wrote:
> But many commuters don't pay attention to such things (what
> with cell phones, PDA's and all those other, more important
> things to do behind the wheel) and could loose one circuit
> and not notice in daily driving.  It is for these folks the 
> light was implemented.

The other day I was trying to carry on a conversation on my cell phone while driving the Spitfire.  What with all the noise, I drove 13 miles before I realized I'd lost connection. :-)
--
Jim Muller

From agraham at execulink.com  Wed Jun 16 14:29:25 2010
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 16:29:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heat resistant paint
Message-ID: <4C193425.1000001@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Wondering about any recommendations for heat resistant paint for use on 
my exhaust pipe. Have had the manifold ceramic coated, but hate to see 
the rusty old down pipe hanging from the manifold. Thought that heat 
resistant paint might be an easy fix. Worth doing? Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Angelo Graham

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Jun 16 14:34:56 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 15:34:56 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for Chrome Plater?
Message-ID: <79810708.767675.1276720496980.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net>

So that you are comparing apples to apples - you may want to only consider those that actually see the piece before they quote a price.   also compare their process.  I don't remember the specifics of chroming but there is chrome and then there is Chrome.... 
 
C


Jun 16, 2010 07:08:27 PM, kinneyjr at msn.com wrote:

I think I should exercise due diligence and get three quotes before sending my
TR4/4A rear bumper and over-riders off to the chromer. I received a quote
from Librandi's in PA. Are there any other good outfits to consider east of
the Mississippi?



Thanks in advance,

Jeremy

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
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From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jun 16 15:05:50 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 15:05:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
In-Reply-To: <156179.81110.qm@web120016.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <OCEDIGMAOBEDBCIEABIPOEPECOAA.thebujas@comcast.net>
	<156179.81110.qm@web120016.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <293513B416044B49BADB04D98E6396C0@bboffice>

My philosophy is that the quality of a product is diminished in directly
inverted proportion to the volume of the pitchman.
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 1:13 PM
To: Ann and Tim Buja
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph

and whats wrong with the sham wow?




________________________________
From:
Ann and Tim Buja <thebujas at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed,
June 16, 2010 11:32:21 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph John Macartney asked,

> QUERY TWO. "uncle jack" was also eqipped in his
toolkit with quite
> the best artificial chamois washleather I've *ever* used.
It was
> fantastic, but time and a fading memory makes the brand-name elusive.
> I bought two from a Pep-Boys outlet to bring home but somehow they 
> never
made it into our luggage.
> Maybe they're still lurking in "uncle jack's" boot
(Phil Ethier?) and
> if so, keep 'em :)

and Phil Ethier replied
: There is
one of them, in a sort of squarish clear-plastic tube.  Don't
: remember what
the name printed on it is.

This sounds like "The Absorber". In case the link doesn't survive word wrap,
a Google search on "emgee marketing" will give this as one of the top links:
https://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/%2835y0cc553hrtq33tw0o4ppjg%29/productDeta
ils.aspx?SKU=87679

Same color as a hide chamois, but it absorbs a lot more water.  It's stored
wet in a translucent plastic tube that's D shaped.  I first started seeing
them in 1995 when we hosted the VTR Convention in Rockford.

It's made in Japan, with the package design trademarked by Shima American
Corporation.  My package says is was distributed by Emgee(!) Marketing in
Clarendon Hills, IL.

I use them for car washing and boat
cleaning, and I think swimmers and
divers use them as a superabsorbent towel that you can wring out and use
over and over again.

Highly recommended, and I
wouldn't be surprised if Joe included it in UJ's toolkit.

Tim Buja -
Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From davidt at opentext.com  Wed Jun 16 15:13:19 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 17:13:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heat resistant paint
In-Reply-To: <4C193425.1000001@execulink.com>
References: <4C193425.1000001@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DF17B@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Angelo

I have seen on some of the performance tv shows ( shhh hot rod shows :-)
), use of exhaust wrap.  They claim that it keeps the engine bay cooler
and is less prone to falling apart like paint etc.

I had the headers ceramic coated on the ex's mustang years ago and the
coating peeled off within a year.  Won't be travelling down that road
again.


David


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 4:29 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Heat resistant paint

Hello List:
Wondering about any recommendations for heat resistant paint for use on
my exhaust pipe. Have had the manifold ceramic coated, but hate to see
the rusty old down pipe hanging from the manifold. Thought that heat
resistant paint might be an easy fix. Worth doing? Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Angelo Graham

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Jun 16 15:22:06 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:22:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fuel Pumps
In-Reply-To: <014001cb0cd8$ba6c7390$2f455ab0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <832051362.6476181276723326084.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I much prefer the little rectangular Facet electric pump.  

>Although it is recommended that the pump be mounted at fuel level, the one I
>put on my motorhome gen set was closer to 24" above the bottom of the fuel
>tank, and still worked fine.  The one in the Stag is also maybe 18" above
>the bottom of the tank, and works just fine.

I second that choice.  Have used the little Facet for years with no problem.  I fastened it to the frame in the manner Randall suggests, using old exhaust hanger and leftover rubber grommets from the suspension rebuild.  Mine, though is below the tank on the theory that gravity feed would assist the pump on the delivery side.  

Uh oh.  Seems to run fine, but maybe I'm having a performance reduction I don't understand?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Jun 16 15:26:59 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:26:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Heat resistant paint
In-Reply-To: <4C193425.1000001@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <681325704.6477581276723619186.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Wondering about any recommendations for heat resistant paint for use on 
>my exhaust pipe. 

Angelo, I used simple black Rustoleum bar-b-cue paint.  Has held up over five years now.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667
New Hampshire

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jun 16 15:27:49 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:27:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
In-Reply-To: <000001cb0d84$ad1cc8a0$075659e0$@net>
Message-ID: <510873735.4783301276723669784.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net> wrote:
> Bill wrote:
> 
> >Just curious for myself as the local wash offers Rain-X treatment.  
> >Does this coating affect the efficiency of the windscreen wipers?
> Bill -
> 
>   With a proper coating of Rain-X, you don't need wipers. 
> Dennis Culligan, Highland,NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U   

That may be more true of the TR6 than the TR3 due to the shape of the windshield.

In any case, I belive that Rain-X does made the wipers work better.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jun 16 16:13:22 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 15:13:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fuel Pumps
In-Reply-To: <832051362.6476181276723326084.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <014001cb0cd8$ba6c7390$2f455ab0$@rr.com>
	<832051362.6476181276723326084.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <080901cb0da1$22d4d3a0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Uh oh.  Seems to run fine, but maybe I'm having a performance 
> reduction I don't understand?

Nah, should work fine below fuel level too.   You might actually get just a
little bit more flow with it down there, but since it will already pump more
fuel than a nearly stock TRactor motor can use, it's not much help.

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Jun 16 16:18:26 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 18:18:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heat resistant paint
In-Reply-To: <4C193425.1000001@execulink.com>
References: <4C193425.1000001@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <201006161818.27429.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday, June 16, 2010 04:29:25 pm Angelo Graham wrote:
> Hello List:
> Wondering about any recommendations for heat resistant paint for use on
> my exhaust pipe. Have had the manifold ceramic coated, but hate to see
> the rusty old down pipe hanging from the manifold. Thought that heat
> resistant paint might be an easy fix. Worth doing? Any recommendations?
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> Angelo Graham
> 
Angelo,

Best solution is to change to a stainless steel down pipe or go for the whole 
stainless system. 

Falcon and Bell supply good systems.

I have the Bell system on my 3, 4 and 72 TR6 project.

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jun 16 16:31:58 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 15:31:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for Chrome Plater?
In-Reply-To: <79810708.767675.1276720496980.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <79810708.767675.1276720496980.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <081101cb0da3$bc265450$0301a8c0@randall>

>  I don't 
> remember the specifics of chroming but there is chrome and 
> then there is Chrome.... 

Indeed there is a huge variation in chrome, not just the process used but
the quality of preparation and care in applying the process.  For the best
quality "triple" chrome job you finish the part first (grind and polish)
then plate a layer of copper, and grind/polish that.  If there are any
imperfections visible, put on another layer of copper and polish that.  It's
like applying a skim coat of Bondo, except each copper layer is only a few
.001" thick.  When the surface looks absolutely perfect, put a layer of
nickel on it and polish that.  If it still looks perfect, then you can
chrome on top of the nickel.

Randall

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Wed Jun 16 18:24:09 2010
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 20:24:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heat resistant paint
Message-ID: <380-2201064170249520@M2W127.mail2web.com>

Who did your ceramic coat?  I have had all my headers ceramic coated buy
Jet Hot and never had a problem.  The headers on the Spitfire were one of
the first set of headers that they ever coated many many years ago (over
twenty), and they still look great, just a slight dulling of the finish,
but I can certainly live with that.  The headers on the truck are only 7
years done, but they still look like new -- I wouldn't use any other method
and am surprised that yours didn't last -

Barry

Original Message:
-----------------
From: David Templeton

Angelo

I have seen on some of the performance tv shows ( shhh hot rod shows :-)
), use of exhaust wrap.  They claim that it keeps the engine bay cooler
and is less prone to falling apart like paint etc.

I had the headers ceramic coated on the ex's mustang years ago and the
coating peeled off within a year.  Won't be travelling down that road
again.


--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology -
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From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Wed Jun 16 19:05:22 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:05:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Diff and OD Tranny Fluid
Message-ID: <7E0475CF497E4F2B8F0CA8A4E88AEFB2@TRGUY>

Dumb question #62 - what fluid are folks using in a TR4 rear diff and OD A
type tranny.  The factory manual states 90weight.  Any recommendations from
the group.  I have a new old TR4 and need to refresh my memory.
Many thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6 CF39514U

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Jun 16 19:23:29 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 20:23:29 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Heat resistant paint
Message-ID: <438223.674243.1276737809406.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net>

I have a SS Bell system on my 1972 Triumph TR6, the British car shop that installed it said it was the best fitting, most complete exhaust system they had ever installed.  Falcon was not on the list, they have had numerous issues with that fit.

Craig
Vienna, VA
1972 Triumph TR6

On Jun 16, 2010, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote: 

On Wednesday, June 16, 2010 04:29:25 pm Angelo Graham wrote:
> Hello List:
> Wondering about any recommendations for heat resistant paint for use on
> my exhaust pipe. Have had the manifold ceramic coated, but hate to see
> the rusty old down pipe hanging from the manifold. Thought that heat
> resistant paint might be an easy fix. Worth doing? Any recommendations?
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> Angelo Graham
> 
Angelo,

Best solution is to change to a stainless steel down pipe or go for the whole 
stainless system. 

Falcon and Bell supply good systems.

I have the Bell system on my 3, 4 and 72 TR6 project.

Bob

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jun 16 20:58:41 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 02:58:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
In-Reply-To: <206040748.4902121276743387306.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <639695806.4902811276743521894.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

OK, I have it now.  It is a plastic case with red background labeling, mostly white text.

Detailer's Choice
PVA SPONGE CLOTH
KWIK DRY

Rinse out thoroughly before first use.  Re-wet if the Kwik Dry dries out.  After use, clean thoroughly, store damp in the tube.  If dirty, machine wash with mild detergent.  DU NOT USE BLEACH.  DO NOT MACHINE DRY.

TIGER ACCESSORY GROUP, LLC
Lincolnshire, Illinois 60069

Made in China

===============

OK, I don't get it.  What keeps it from becoming a mold factory?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- "Ann and Tim Buja" <thebujas at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: "Ann and Tim Buja" <thebujas at comcast.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 1:32:21 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] Auto products - sadly not Triumph
>
> John Macartney asked,
> 
> > QUERY TWO. "uncle jack" was also eqipped in his toolkit with quite
> > the best artificial chamois washleather I've *ever* used. It was
> > fantastic, but time and a fading memory makes the brand-name
> elusive.
> > I bought two from a Pep-Boys outlet to bring home but somehow they
> > never made it into our luggage.
> > Maybe they're still lurking in "uncle jack's" boot (Phil Ethier?)
> and
> > if so, keep 'em :)
> 
> and Phil Ethier replied
> : There is one of them, in a sort of squarish clear-plastic tube. 
> Don't
> : remember what the name printed on it is.
> 
> This sounds like "The Absorber". In case the link doesn't survive word
> wrap,
> a Google search on "emgee marketing" will give this as one of the top
> links:
> https://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/%2835y0cc553hrtq33tw0o4ppjg%29/productDeta
> ils.aspx?SKU=87679
> 
> Same color as a hide chamois, but it absorbs a lot more water.  It's
> stored
> wet in a translucent plastic tube that's D shaped.  I first started
> seeing
> them in 1995 when we hosted the VTR Convention in Rockford.
> 
> It's made in Japan, with the package design trademarked by Shima
> American
> Corporation.  My package says is was distributed by Emgee(!) Marketing
> in
> Clarendon Hills, IL.
> 
> I use them for car washing and boat cleaning, and I think swimmers
> and
> divers use them as a superabsorbent towel that you can wring out and
> use
> over and over again.
> 
> Highly recommended, and I wouldn't be surprised if Joe included it in
> UJ's
> toolkit.
> 
> Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Jun 16 23:16:42 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 23:16:42 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
Message-ID: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>

Well if others are going to talk about ones from the past,
I think I'll dust off this old list which I am fairly certain
I have posted before.

I moved to Utah in 1973.  That same year my father wrapped up
my old train set, thinking he'd get it to me some day.  I did
pick it up on one visit back home some years later.  It was
wrapped in newspaper.  One section was the 'sports car' ads
from the classifieds:



'67 Chevelle, 396, 4 spd. $950

'67 Corvette conv. air, power windows, 427, $2,300

Ferrari, 1959 250 GT, 12 cyl. 2 passenger, excel. cond. $4,950

'53 Jag XK120 show car, $3,395

'64 MGB New red paint, new top, luggage rack, very fast, $1,000

'59 MGA, engine good, body needs work $500

'58 Porsche, runs good, $850

'60 Triumph, 4 spd., looks, runs perfect  $300

'64 TR4 wire wheels, new paint, tires, $750

'64 TR4 Rebuilt, mech. perfect, new tires, no rust $850

'56 Morgan Plus 4, excel. orig. condition, $3,500


mjb.

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jun 16 23:54:02 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 22:54:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>
References: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <FB2BA4BB808F4D0D841FB35C95A91CD1@joepentiumnew>

My first new car was a 67 Camaro.  Cost me $2250.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 10:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when

Well if others are going to talk about ones from the past,
I think I'll dust off this old list which I am fairly certain
I have posted before.

I moved to Utah in 1973.  That same year my father wrapped up
my old train set, thinking he'd get it to me some day.  I did
pick it up on one visit back home some years later.  It was
wrapped in newspaper.  One section was the 'sports car' ads
from the classifieds:



'67 Chevelle, 396, 4 spd. $950

'67 Corvette conv. air, power windows, 427, $2,300

Ferrari, 1959 250 GT, 12 cyl. 2 passenger, excel. cond. $4,950

'53 Jag XK120 show car, $3,395

'64 MGB New red paint, new top, luggage rack, very fast, $1,000

'59 MGA, engine good, body needs work $500

'58 Porsche, runs good, $850

'60 Triumph, 4 spd., looks, runs perfect  $300

'64 TR4 wire wheels, new paint, tires, $750

'64 TR4 Rebuilt, mech. perfect, new tires, no rust $850

'56 Morgan Plus 4, excel. orig. condition, $3,500


mjb.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From allegrorover at mac.com  Wed Jun 16 23:55:22 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 22:55:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>
References: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <0B1AE42B-3C84-4457-8FDA-3C46ACCE30B6@mac.com>

How times have changed



Jeanne & Tony Cascio
allegrorover at mac.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jun 17 05:30:46 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 04:30:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Diff and OD Tranny Fluid
In-Reply-To: <7E0475CF497E4F2B8F0CA8A4E88AEFB2@TRGUY>
References: <7E0475CF497E4F2B8F0CA8A4E88AEFB2@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <008701cb0e10$87e6b320$0301a8c0@randall>

> Dumb question #62 - what fluid are folks using in a TR4 rear 
> diff and OD A
> type tranny.  

I use Valvoline full synthetic gear oil in the diff (both TR3 which is
essentially identical to your TR4, and Stag which is only slightly
different).  This is a GL5 oil, but has none of the active sulfur additive
that can eventually damage the brass thrust washers.

For my A-type (which is a TR4 OD mated to a TR6 gearbox), I use Redline
MT-90.  Also a full synthetic, it is supposedly optimized for use in manual
transmissions, with none of the active sulfur.

The Redline is a bit pricey though (typically around $15/quart though I
managed to find a few quarts for half that on flea-bay).  In the past, I
have used Valvoline Racing (motor) oil, the "not street legal" stuff, in
20W50, which I regard as a close second to the MT-90.  It works fine,
protects the gears and thrust washers (no sulfur additive) and gives more
consistent shifting between hot & cold than the 90 weight does.  (Shifting a
box with cold 90 weight in it feels like stirring molasses.)  Recommended by
both Herman van den Akker (before he focused completely on Toyota
conversions) and Ken Gillanders at British Frame and Engine (a TR racing
parts supplier).

Other's opinions will vary, but that is what I use.

Randall
56 TR3  TS13571L current project
59 TR3A TS39781LO (now totaled :(
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
71 Stag LE2013LBW awaiting (manual) gearbox rebuild

From guy at genfiniti.com  Thu Jun 17 05:51:03 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 06:51:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>
References: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <00F2102E-5024-464E-9AA0-F3C598174482@genfiniti.com>

How the dollar had tanked with no real backing.
Just sad.  But hey, at least the politicians now have some room to play.

On Jun 17, 2010, at 12:16 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Well if others are going to talk about ones from the past,
> I think I'll dust off this old list which I am fairly certain
> I have posted before.
>
> I moved to Utah in 1973.  That same year my father wrapped up
> my old train set, thinking he'd get it to me some day.  I did
> pick it up on one visit back home some years later.  It was
> wrapped in newspaper.  One section was the 'sports car' ads
> from the classifieds:
>
>
>
> '67 Chevelle, 396, 4 spd. $950
>
> '67 Corvette conv. air, power windows, 427, $2,300
>
> Ferrari, 1959 250 GT, 12 cyl. 2 passenger, excel. cond. $4,950
>
> '53 Jag XK120 show car, $3,395
>
> '64 MGB New red paint, new top, luggage rack, very fast, $1,000
>
> '59 MGA, engine good, body needs work $500
>
> '58 Porsche, runs good, $850
>
> '60 Triumph, 4 spd., looks, runs perfect  $300
>
> '64 TR4 wire wheels, new paint, tires, $750
>
> '64 TR4 Rebuilt, mech. perfect, new tires, no rust $850
>
> '56 Morgan Plus 4, excel. orig. condition, $3,500
>
>
> mjb.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Thu Jun 17 06:01:13 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 12:01:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <886116774.7326211276776073902.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

But compare these prices to typical wages in 1973 and then compare the percentages.  I suggest that the sports car for the masses (Miata) of today (say ~$25k [just guessing]) is a lower percentage of a typical gross pay today than the sports car for the masses (MGB, TR6) of 1973 was to the typical gross pay of 1973.    

I would suggest that the person able and willing to buy a sports car probably earns more than a typical wage.  

In mid-1972, living and working in NYC, I paid about $3500 for my new 1971 (it was sold to me as a 1972, I found out only a couple of years ago that it actually was a 1971) MGB-GT.  I don't remember exactly how much I was making at the time, but I am all but certain it was around $10k.

Regards,
BobW
1974 TR6


----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 1:16:42 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when

Well if others are going to talk about ones from the past,
I think I'll dust off this old list which I am fairly certain
I have posted before.

I moved to Utah in 1973.  That same year my father wrapped up
my old train set, thinking he'd get it to me some day.  I did
pick it up on one visit back home some years later.  It was
wrapped in newspaper.  One section was the 'sports car' ads
from the classifieds:



'67 Chevelle, 396, 4 spd. $950

'67 Corvette conv. air, power windows, 427, $2,300

Ferrari, 1959 250 GT, 12 cyl. 2 passenger, excel. cond. $4,950

'53 Jag XK120 show car, $3,395

'64 MGB New red paint, new top, luggage rack, very fast, $1,000

'59 MGA, engine good, body needs work $500

'58 Porsche, runs good, $850

'60 Triumph, 4 spd., looks, runs perfect  $300

'64 TR4 wire wheels, new paint, tires, $750

'64 TR4 Rebuilt, mech. perfect, new tires, no rust $850

'56 Morgan Plus 4, excel. orig. condition, $3,500


mjb.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Thu Jun 17 06:07:44 2010
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 08:07:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
Message-ID: <380-22010641712744693@M2W112.mail2web.com>

My first "almost" new car ( I have never actually bought a brand new
car...so this would be the newest) bought from a dealer in 1973 with 5000
miles on it was a red "pimento" 1972 Spitfire - Paid $2000 for it!

I still have it today -


*******************original message********************

My first new car was a 67 Camaro.  Cost me $2250.

Joe


--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web.com  What can On Demand Business Solutions do for you?
http://link.mail2web.com/Business/SharePoint

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 17 06:29:50 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 07:29:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <0B1AE42B-3C84-4457-8FDA-3C46ACCE30B6@mac.com>
References: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>,
	<0B1AE42B-3C84-4457-8FDA-3C46ACCE30B6@mac.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W30EF72C0F695A95007FB1EE1DF0@phx.gbl>

So have wages and the value of the dollar.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> From: allegrorover at mac.com
> Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 22:55:22 -0700
> To: mark at bradakis.com
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Car prices from back when
>
> How times have changed
>
>
>
> Jeanne & Tony Cascio
> allegrorover at mac.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Thu Jun 17 07:29:15 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 06:29:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <FB2BA4BB808F4D0D841FB35C95A91CD1@joepentiumnew>
References: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>
	<FB2BA4BB808F4D0D841FB35C95A91CD1@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <DF7F3330-586F-4275-AB71-A33846ABD3B3@gmail.com>

Me too, a 67 Camaro.  It was my "2/Lt student pilot" car.  Kept it for 2
years, traded it for 69 Pontiac LeMans for my new wife & a 58 MGA that I drove
daily for 13 years, including daily round trips of over an hour each way in
the Pittsburgh, PA area through snow/ice up & down some significant hills! I
would wear my USAF winter flying suit & USAF parka to keep warm.  Ahhh, those
were the days!  :-)

John


On  16 Jun, 2010, at 10:54 PM, Joe Curry wrote:

> My first new car was a 67 Camaro.  Cost me $2250.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
> Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 10:17 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
>
> Well if others are going to talk about ones from the past,
> I think I'll dust off this old list which I am fairly certain
> I have posted before.
>
> I moved to Utah in 1973.  That same year my father wrapped up
> my old train set, thinking he'd get it to me some day.  I did
> pick it up on one visit back home some years later.  It was
> wrapped in newspaper.  One section was the 'sports car' ads
> from the classifieds:
>
>
>
> '67 Chevelle, 396, 4 spd. $950
>
> '67 Corvette conv. air, power windows, 427, $2,300
>
> Ferrari, 1959 250 GT, 12 cyl. 2 passenger, excel. cond. $4,950
>
> '53 Jag XK120 show car, $3,395
>
> '64 MGB New red paint, new top, luggage rack, very fast, $1,000
>
> '59 MGA, engine good, body needs work $500
>
> '58 Porsche, runs good, $850
>
> '60 Triumph, 4 spd., looks, runs perfect  $300
>
> '64 TR4 wire wheels, new paint, tires, $750
>
> '64 TR4 Rebuilt, mech. perfect, new tires, no rust $850
>
> '56 Morgan Plus 4, excel. orig. condition, $3,500
>
>
> mjb.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com
>

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Jun 17 08:24:36 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 08:24:36 -0600
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <FB2BA4BB808F4D0D841FB35C95A91CD1@joepentiumnew>
References: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>
	<FB2BA4BB808F4D0D841FB35C95A91CD1@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <8672C270D3C14E09BC24E6D951C0D84F@bboffice>

I think I paid that same amount for my first new car too, 1969 Camaro (a
demo with 1100 miles on it), traded in a PV544 that I wish I had back now.

Bill

 Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 11:54 PM
To: 'Mark J Bradakis'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Car prices from back when

My first new car was a 67 Camaro.  Cost me $2250.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 10:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when

Well if others are going to talk about ones from the past, I think I'll dust
off this old list which I am fairly certain I have posted before.

I moved to Utah in 1973.  That same year my father wrapped up my old train
set, thinking he'd get it to me some day.  I did pick it up on one visit
back home some years later.  It was wrapped in newspaper.  One section was
the 'sports car' ads from the classifieds:



'67 Chevelle, 396, 4 spd. $950

'67 Corvette conv. air, power windows, 427, $2,300

Ferrari, 1959 250 GT, 12 cyl. 2 passenger, excel. cond. $4,950

'53 Jag XK120 show car, $3,395

'64 MGB New red paint, new top, luggage rack, very fast, $1,000

'59 MGA, engine good, body needs work $500

'58 Porsche, runs good, $850

'60 Triumph, 4 spd., looks, runs perfect  $300

'64 TR4 wire wheels, new paint, tires, $750

'64 TR4 Rebuilt, mech. perfect, new tires, no rust $850

'56 Morgan Plus 4, excel. orig. condition, $3,500


mjb.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
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From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Thu Jun 17 08:28:38 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (HANS DEFERRANTE)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 07:28:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-w62EC12E18D3209A964B304B9DC0@phx.gbl>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>,
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<BAY150-w62EC12E18D3209A964B304B9DC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5C588716-D306-43D3-AD4D-F87BB2DA6471@roadrunner.com>

Randy, I reconditioned my TR3 generator --- resurfaced commutator  
myself, new brushes , new bushing (front bearing bearing was still  
good) ---- and found the generator  to be more than adequate to  
handle , not only the starter, but also an add- on  12" radiator fan  
with the radio, heater and all the lights on at bright beam. Total  
cost was about about  $35,  including installation of the bushing by  
a shop. The bushing was so bad, the armature was rubbing on the  
stator. If the stator windings are in good condition, it is worth it,  
I think.
  There is a reconditioning procedure online.
  If you are interested, I'll dig it up.

Hans




On Jun 13, 2010, at 7:53 PM, Randy&Val DeRuiter wrote:

> t was the deciding point for me.  I recommend
> the tech areas on the VTR website

From davidt at opentext.com  Thu Jun 17 10:10:23 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 12:10:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <5C588716-D306-43D3-AD4D-F87BB2DA6471@roadrunner.com>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>,
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><BAY150-w62EC12E18D3209A964B304B9DC0@phx.gbl>
	<5C588716-D306-43D3-AD4D-F87BB2DA6471@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DF261@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Morning,

After thinking really hard and listening to the conversations back and
forth I can summarize the following.

The generator is fine...
- for a stock or near stock system, with a radio.
- if you don't do much driving at night
- if the electric radiator fan doesn't run after shut down
- if it is fresh, and probably tuned up every couple of years, not from
overuse but more from underuse
- if you don't do a lot of stop ( engine off ) and go, especially with a
stock starter
- if you don't have oodles of other electrical accessories ( iPods, cell
phones, laptops, gps units, subwoofer, 1000w amp )

In the worse case where you have stops, drive at night with the Lucas
flamethrowers, use a radio, get caught in a little rain, the electric
fan comes one due to the heat of the summer, bumper to bumper
traffic.... Well you are soon toast and hoping your wonderful wife paid
the CAA premiums to get the boost to get home LOL.  Yes being completely
sarcastic at this point, but it looks like I am going to start laying
out the plans to first convert to -ve ground and then switch over to the
alternator.  A million thanks for the resource links for brackets and
pulley sources so far, that is making the task easier.  My "supply guy"
has sourced a denso 3 wire GM alternator that puts out 66amps, unlike
the one in my pickup that cranks 140amps that would cook my wires!

I will be making write-up for this as this progresses over the next
couple of weeks.  But here is the shopping list I have so far:

- 1 denso alternator ( part number coming )
- 1 wide belt pulley
- 1 bracket adaption "thingy", yet to be designed for this project
- 1 pigtail connector for the alternator

Did I miss anything?  :-D

David Templeton
'59TR3a
'74Spitsix

From kinneyjr at msn.com  Thu Jun 17 11:12:38 2010
From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 13:12:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendations for Chrome Plater?
In-Reply-To: <79810708.767675.1276720496980.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <79810708.767675.1276720496980.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <BAY132-W14EAB17C9725BAF5DB49E7C3DF0@phx.gbl>

Yep, I'm doing my homework, know what to look for, etc., but I would like to
know if anyone had a great experience (with the assumption that they did they
homework and knew what they were looking for) with a particular plater in the
not-too-distant past.



Has anyone tried Hanlon Plating in Richmond?  I'm in the mid-Atlantic, but
I'll open up to any suggestions.



Thanks!

Jeremy

> Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 15:34:56 -0500
> From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net
> To: kinneyjr at msn.com
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Recommendations for Chrome Plater?
>
> So that you are comparing apples to apples - you may want to only consider
those that actually see the piece before they quote a price. also compare
their process. I don't remember the specifics of chroming but there is chrome
and then there is Chrome....
>
> C
>
>
> Jun 16, 2010 07:08:27 PM, kinneyjr at msn.com wrote:
>
> I think I should exercise due diligence and get three quotes before sending
my
> TR4/4A rear bumper and over-riders off to the chromer. I received a quote
> from Librandi's in PA. Are there any other good outfits to consider east of
> the Mississippi?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jeremy
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your
inbox.
>
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
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>
> _______________________________________________
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> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jun 17 11:26:48 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 10:26:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <886116774.7326211276776073902.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>
	<886116774.7326211276776073902.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <028f01cb0e42$44dc4db0$ce94e910$@rr.com>

> In mid-1972, living and working in NYC, I paid about $3500 for my new
> 1971 (it was sold to me as a 1972, I found out only a couple of years
> ago that it actually was a 1971) MGB-GT.  

Just for chuckles, I looked it up and did the math.  Assuming the numbers
published by the SSA (the US government agency responsible for the national
retirement plan) are accurate, paying $3500 in 1972 corresponds to paying
$20k in 2008 (last year with published average wages).
http://www.ssa.gov/OACT/COLA/AWI.html

-- Randall 

From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 17 11:28:13 2010
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 10:28:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] RainX
Message-ID: <641080.49965.qm@web83507.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

This stuff lets the airflow blow the raindrops off the windshield. PFM as they say. I love the stuff and they also sell FogX for the inside of the windshield and stuff to put into your windshield washer reservoir. They have all the glazes(bases) covered.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 17 16:05:18 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 15:05:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] RainX
In-Reply-To: <641080.49965.qm@web83507.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <641080.49965.qm@web83507.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <664443.20509.qm@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

does rainx also bounce the bugs off your windshield? :-)
does it make cleaning
them off easier?
Frank




________________________________
From: JOSEPH MATO
<joemato at sbcglobal.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, June 17, 2010
10:28:13 AM
Subject: [TR] RainX

This stuff lets the airflow blow the
raindrops off the windshield. PFM as they say. I love the stuff and they also
sell FogX for the inside of the windshield and stuff to put into your
windshield washer reservoir. They have all the glazes(bases) covered.
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jun 17 16:05:21 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 22:05:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <DF7F3330-586F-4275-AB71-A33846ABD3B3@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <973313660.6943341276812321582.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>...a 58 MGA that I drove
>daily for 13 years, including daily round trips of over an hour each way in
>the Pittsburgh, PA area through snow/ice up & down some significant hills! I
>would wear my USAF winter flying suit & USAF parka to keep warm.  Ahhh, those
>were the days!  :-)

Ooohhhhh, John, John, John....  How could you possibly trade the frozen east where real men shiver, for the golden climes of Arizona where you can no longer practice the manly art of whining about the cold????  Tsk tsk.

...Reminds me.  This summer I have to install the heater you recommended....

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hamsphire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jun 17 16:11:10 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 22:11:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <8672C270D3C14E09BC24E6D951C0D84F@bboffice>
Message-ID: <838227980.6945401276812670736.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hmmmm...  I had bought a Pontiac LeMans for $50 in Oxnard when I was in the navy airdales back in '73, the year I got out.  All I had to do to it was put the radiator and fenders back on and pray it started.  Splurged on an 8 track and listened to my one tape, Neal Young's Heart of Gold album, all the way home and back to Ukiah for a number of trips.  Should hate it by now, but don't.  Only the White Album is better.

Started college in September of '73, the LeMans threw a rod, and I found myself in heaven, shopping for a car and finding a '68 MBG with 40k miles for $950.  Wish I'd had the money to change the oil back then, or I might still have it today!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jun 17 16:15:31 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 22:15:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DF261@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <1922437537.6946451276812931716.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I will be making write-up for this as this progresses over the next
>couple of weeks.  But here is the shopping list I have so far:

>- 1 denso alternator ( part number coming )
>- 1 wide belt pulley
>- 1 bracket adaption "thingy", yet to be designed for this project
>- 1 pigtail connector for the alternator

>Did I miss anything?  :-D

Nope.  The pigtail is easily sourced at any parts store.  But one thing I learned from experience:  you cannot overdesign the bracket.  It has to both be strongly secured against vibration AND line up the alternator pulley with the crank pulley.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jun 17 16:19:57 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 22:19:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <20100617051642.60C1D2E0B6@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1712731336.6947741276813197262.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>'56 Morgan Plus 4, excel. orig. condition, $3,500

Now that you mention it, Mark, the Morgan is probably the only other car I'd be interested in rebuilding and keeping, after my '3A.  

...So, what about these cars.  They had the same tractor engine, I understand, but other than ultra cool body lines, did they have the speed of a '3A?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jun 17 17:17:14 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 16:17:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Heat resistant paint
In-Reply-To: <438223.674243.1276737809406.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <438223.674243.1276737809406.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimThC6bq-FfLLyeCOOqp4lFBezl_4teygVpkHNm@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/16/10, thenicholls at verizon.net <thenicholls at verizon.net> wrote:
> I have a SS Bell system on my 1972 Triumph TR6...  Falcon was not on the list,
> they have had numerous issues with that fit.

Sorry, I have forgotten what model was originally queried -- but the
Falcon system on my TR3A is a perfect fit.  And when one component
failed (after only 23 years) they promptly shipped a replacement.

Geo

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 17 17:37:24 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 16:37:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Car prices from back when
In-Reply-To: <1712731336.6947741276813197262.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1712731336.6947741276813197262.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <511522.47282.qm@web120018.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

it appears to me that they are a lot faster.
i attend the classic races at
sonoma (sears point) each June and there are about 4 of them that race, and
they tend to be very fast

 



________________________________
From:
"terryrs at comcast.net" <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: Mark J Bradakis
<mark at bradakis.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, June 17, 2010
3:19:57 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Car prices from back when

>'56 Morgan Plus 4,
excel. orig. condition, $3,500

Now that you mention it, Mark, the Morgan is
probably the only other car I'd be interested in rebuilding and keeping, after
my '3A.  

...So, what about these cars.  They had the same tractor engine, I
understand, but other than ultra cool body lines, did they have the speed of a
'3A?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Thu Jun 17 19:32:03 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 21:32:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
Message-ID: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY>

Thank you all for the great answers to my questions regarding my recent 62 TR4
acquisition.  His name is Simon (so annointed by my three year old) and he was
neglected for the last 5 years.  My goal is to bring him back to his natural
beauty as he was born from the factory.  He is not running yet as I am going
through all of the systems.  My question is what are the visible signs of a
switch from the original positive ground to negative ground?  The battery in
the car is hooked up as a negative ground, yet the car came positive ground
originally.  The battery is dead and I'd like to not screw it up when I put a
new battery in. It still has a generator installed.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6 CF35914U

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jun 18 01:08:01 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 00:08:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
In-Reply-To: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY>
References: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <000001cb0eb4$fde497f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> My question is what are the 
> visible signs of a
> switch from the original positive ground to negative ground?  

There are really very few changes involved, and they are optional (the car
will function without making the changes), so it's hard to say.  My
suggestion would be to decide whether you want positive or negative ground,
and proceed on that basis.

For negative ground, the "-" or "SW" terminal of the coil should be
connected to the distributor, the other to the wiring harness.  For positive
ground, the "+" or "CB" terminal goes to the distributor.

The wires to the ammeter also get swapped.  Easiest way to see which is
which is to apply a load of some sort (like turn on the headlights) and see
if the needle moves to "-".  If not, then either reverse the wires to the
ammeter, or the battery polarity.

As far as the generator, after such a long snooze it is probably best to
repolarize it anyway, to whatever your chosen polarity is.  With a charged
battery (or jumper cables from another car), just pull off the wire from the
'F' terminal on the control box on the firewall, and momentarily brush it
against the 'A' or 'A1' terminal.  You should see a little spark, which
tells you the job is done.  Reconnect the wire and resume awakening the
beast.

Randall

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Jun 18 04:01:01 2010
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 06:01:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] RainX
References: <641080.49965.qm@web83507.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<664443.20509.qm@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3FDDD04230274E5391CB69DCA289DB1A@mde.state.md.us>

> does rainx also bounce the bugs off your windshield? :-)
> does it make cleaning them off easier?

Yes, for a little while.

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Fri Jun 18 06:44:03 2010
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 08:44:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
In-Reply-To: <000001cb0eb4$fde497f0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY>
	<000001cb0eb4$fde497f0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <8CCDCFB10D3C631-3CA4-19C6@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>

 I have a positive ground pertronix electronic ignition.  Will that work with
a negative ground conversion?

Ned Paulsen
Webster, NY








-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Jun 18, 2010 3:08 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground


> My question is what are the

> visible signs of a

> switch from the original positive ground to negative ground?



There are really very few changes involved, and they are optional (the car

will function without making the changes), so it's hard to say.  My

suggestion would be to decide whether you want positive or negative ground,

and proceed on that basis.



For negative ground, the "-" or "SW" terminal of the coil should be

connected to the distributor, the other to the wiring harness.  For positive

ground, the "+" or "CB" terminal goes to the distributor.



The wires to the ammeter also get swapped.  Easiest way to see which is

which is to apply a load of some sort (like turn on the headlights) and see

if the needle moves to "-".  If not, then either reverse the wires to the

ammeter, or the battery polarity.



As far as the generator, after such a long snooze it is probably best to

repolarize it anyway, to whatever your chosen polarity is.  With a charged

battery (or jumper cables from another car), just pull off the wire from the

'F' terminal on the control box on the firewall, and momentarily brush it

against the 'A' or 'A1' terminal.  You should see a little spark, which

tells you the job is done.  Reconnect the wire and resume awakening the

beast.



Randall



_______________________________________________

Triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $11.47

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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Fri Jun 18 06:51:04 2010
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 07:51:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] RainX
In-Reply-To: <3FDDD04230274E5391CB69DCA289DB1A@mde.state.md.us>
References: <641080.49965.qm@web83507.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<664443.20509.qm@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<3FDDD04230274E5391CB69DCA289DB1A@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinaOleSMGHan8s6YFsEZonFW2174YrLmzRpg5Yq@mail.gmail.com>

It also attacks some kinds of rubber and plastic.  Rumor goes that the
stuff will make it more likely for you windshield to crack and shatter
because it attacks the laminated plastic layers in the safety glass.

On Fri, Jun 18, 2010 at 5:01 AM, Nolan <opposumking at verizon.net> wrote:
>> does rainx also bounce the bugs off your windshield? :-)
>> does it make cleaning them off easier?
>
> Yes, for a little while.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com
>
>



--
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Fri Jun 18 07:16:49 2010
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 08:16:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DF261@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>, ,
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><BAY150-w62EC12E18D3209A964B304B9DC0@phx.gbl>,
	<5C588716-D306-43D3-AD4D-F87BB2DA6471@roadrunner.com>,
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DF261@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w45EB357B091E5DEEC905F6B9C00@phx.gbl>

> - 1 denso alternator ( part number coming )
> - 1 wide belt pulley
> - 1 bracket adaption "thingy", yet to be designed for this project
> - 1 pigtail connector for the alternator
>
>


The wide pulley that I've seen available for purchase is meant for the Delco
alternator, I believe the shaft diameter on the Denso is different, actually I
think very close the the original generator diameter.  A stock pulley cannot
be used, however, without some machine shop work.



I also think the Denso will be wired up slightly differently than the Delco,
at least the Denso I purchased.  It needs a switched power source to energize
which I will be adding.  I found a suitable pigtail on ebay for the Denso.



Randy

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From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Jun 18 08:07:37 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 14:07:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
In-Reply-To: <8CCDCFB10D3C631-3CA4-19C6@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <214152308.5408621276870056703.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- npaul72464 at aol.com wrote:

> From: npaul72464 at aol.com
> To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 7:44:03 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
>
> I have a positive ground pertronix electronic ignition.  Will that
> work with
> a negative ground conversion?
> 
> Ned Paulsen
> Webster, NY

I very much doubt it.  That's why they have both kinds.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jun 18 08:08:59 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 07:08:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
In-Reply-To: <8CCDCFB10D3C631-3CA4-19C6@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
References: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY>
	<000001cb0eb4$fde497f0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<8CCDCFB10D3C631-3CA4-19C6@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <004901cb0eef$ccbdbb30$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have a positive ground pertronix electronic ignition.  Will 
> that work with a negative ground conversion?

I don't believe so.  Since the Pertronix module is grounded through it's
mounting plate, there is no practical method of reversing the leads to it.

However the newer Crane XR700 (with the LED) has a separate negative lead
and so can be installed for either polarity.

Randall

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Fri Jun 18 08:41:25 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 10:41:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
In-Reply-To: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY>
References: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik_Yc4iChXAosVSxlRMY8Kw_5UK4gZJgU4qHLxX@mail.gmail.com>

I'd verify the steps in this webpage:

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/negative-ground.shtml

if it matches your setup - you have negative ground!

On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 9:32 PM, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:

>  My question is what are the visible signs of a
> switch from the original positive ground to negative ground?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jun 18 09:50:45 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 08:50:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DF261@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A0539@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>,
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B01650650@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><BAY150-w62EC12E18D3209A964B304B9DC0@phx.gbl><5C588716-D306-43D3-AD4D-F87BB2DA6471@roadrunner.com>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DF261@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <006001cb0efe$03b50c70$0301a8c0@randall>

> I will be making write-up for this as this progresses over the next
> couple of weeks.  But here is the shopping list I have so far:
> 
> - 1 denso alternator ( part number coming )
> - 1 wide belt pulley
> - 1 bracket adaption "thingy", yet to be designed for this project
> - 1 pigtail connector for the alternator
> 
> Did I miss anything?  :-D

Depending on how you plan to connect into the car's original harness, this
may be useful:
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml

I need to get one ordered myself, as I plan to use it to join together the
original brown/blue and brown/white wires from the control box, along with
the new output lead from the alternator and the feed to the new fuse box
(which will feed the radiator fan, headlights and eventually stereo).

Randall

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Fri Jun 18 10:29:24 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 12:29:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik_Yc4iChXAosVSxlRMY8Kw_5UK4gZJgU4qHLxX@mail.gmail.com>
References: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY>
	<AANLkTik_Yc4iChXAosVSxlRMY8Kw_5UK4gZJgU4qHLxX@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CB9714AE9524D609BFE19A3530A7EE3@TRGUY>

Great tip. I need to visit those pages more often. After checking the info and
car, I found out it has been switched to neg ground.  Thanks!
Jim Henningsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Chris Simo
  To: James Henningsen ; list Triumph
  Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 10:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground


  I'd verify the steps in this webpage:

  http://www.vtr.org/maintain/negative-ground.shtml

  if it matches your setup - you have negative ground!


  On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 9:32 PM, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:

     My question is what are the visible signs of a
    switch from the original positive ground to negative ground?

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jun 18 15:07:40 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 14:07:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
In-Reply-To: <8CB9714AE9524D609BFE19A3530A7EE3@TRGUY>
References: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY>
	<AANLkTik_Yc4iChXAosVSxlRMY8Kw_5UK4gZJgU4qHLxX@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CB9714AE9524D609BFE19A3530A7EE3@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinhmrNv0VlTTr5laQELC-5bn82aqu-C85Q0jMle@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/18/10, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> ...I found out it has been switched to neg ground.

If you choose to return to positive ground -- you said "My goal is to
bring him back to his natural beauty as he was born from the factory"
-- then you will want to check the polarity of any radio or other
sound equipment in place.  These components are usually polarity
sensitive.

If you happen to have an 'original' (really dealer-installed) radio
you may find that it has a slide switch or rotating plug which can
change its polarity.

Geo

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Fri Jun 18 18:17:34 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 17:17:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] Don Stanford:  The Red Car
Message-ID: <4C1C0C9E.4040904@greenheart.com>

Okay... so, as I mentioned in a prior post, I recently acquired this 
book off the internet after looking for it in used book stores for 
something like over 10 years! (After a Triumph newsgroup member 
mentioned the book and put out a request for it!)

Today, I finally sat down and read the book!   I felt I had to read it 
before shipping it off to one of my nephews!

What a great story!  It really took me back to my early days of 
discovering auto mechanics and tinkering on my first car at the age of 
15.  My own father wasn't that much different than the main character 
Hap's father.    He distanced himself from my work on the car and word 
was, he thought it would just be a good experience for me to tinker on 
the car, only to have the unfinished project sold off in a few months.  
He was right that it would be a good experience, he was wrong to think 
it would never be done.  A year later, the car was on the street, 
registered, and ready for his now 16 year old son to drive! 

I even had a moment with my father where he said my Triumph was only 
good for parades and shouldn't be driven on the highways.  I talked my 
dad into taking a drive in my car.   He drove it a few blocks and I 
couldn't take it.  He was going 25 mph in 3rd hear!  He was driving it 
like it was a Model A.   I took over the driver's seat and drove him to 
a straight away just a block from our home.  I asked him to be sure his 
seat belt was tight and just as he said it was, I floored it.  I chirped 
it into second, throwing his head back.  I chirped it into third, 
throwing his head back again. Before he knew it, I was in fourth going 
about 110 mph just as I downshifted and brought the car to a stop.   
Then I asked him if he still thought my car was only good for parades.  
And then I started to realize what I had just done... I had just driven 
like a maniac with my father in the car on a residential street near our 
house!  I wasn't sure what was going to come next!  He just sat there 
for a moment, got his bearings, took an overdue breath, exhaled, and 
asked, "Can we do that again?"    (I'm sure I shared that story here 
before, but it never gets old!)

And while I never had an old salt of a mechanic to teach me, like the 
character Frenchy, he certainly resembles a composite of men I looked up 
to in my youth.  And, yes, I had an older brother  that  I learned a lot 
from before I flipped it around and started teaching him!  : )

I have no doubt that I would have loved this book back then!  And I 
would highly recommend the book for grand kids, nephews, etc.  Or to 
adults that could use a lesson that might help them to understand the 
attraction to these beasts.

The book stands up to the 21st century pretty well.   The fact that 
there's no cell phones, Ipods, computers, etc. etc. in the story isn't 
even an issue.  And the dialogue isn't so full of out dated vocabulary 
that it draws attention to itself.  The main character, "the Red Car" is 
presented as an older model MG, so it just reads as an old British car.  
That 60 years has passed doesn't really matter.   About the only thing 
thing that might need a reality check for a young teen reading the book 
is that an old MG TC, with a little damage, isn't going to sell for 
$50.00.  And a $400 college fund isn't going to buy even the first 
semester's books!   Etc. 

Too bad it was published in 1954!   He probably wrote the book long 
before it was published.   If he had only waited a little longer, 
perhaps a TR2 would have been in the mix of the wonderful cars 
highlighted in the story.

--Justin Wagner

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Fri Jun 18 18:34:05 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (HANS DEFERRANTE)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 17:34:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Teflon washers in SU Carbs -The scoop
In-Reply-To: <C04634E18B69447FB1C1B5E1E064B022@Lambert1>
References: <C41E0692-8283-4AD6-8626-624F75F83CEA@roadrunner.com>
	<C04634E18B69447FB1C1B5E1E064B022@Lambert1>
Message-ID: <9B8D72CF-4A14-44F1-BF62-8570E9059550@roadrunner.com>

Hi Dennis and Randall,

I spoke with Walt from Britalia and this is the scoop and advise I got:
The green  o-rings are not teflon. They are actually made for the air  
conditioning  industry and are available from A.C. supply houses. As  
far as he is concerned they have no particular advantage over the  
neoprene o-rings such as available from Moss or hardware stores.
His recommendation was to polish the brass jet tube with rouge, tooth  
paste,  or polishing compound to a gloss and, if necessary, remove  
any visible blemishes with a rubbing compound. Lubricate the tube and  
washers with a thin layer of synthetic grease before installation.
I followed his advise and used the "Moss" washers and a grease with a  
high content of teflon (on the bottom gland washer as well), which  
did not to come off with gasoline.  It is a bit early to judge, but  
so far it has worked perfectly --- dry as a bone --- and the jet  
slides up and down very easily.

Dennis,  -- I have been trying to get a hold of a friend who had an  
A.C. business, to find out about those mysterious green washers and  
who is also an excellent mechanic. If he thinks it has some merit  
I'll get some for you too.

Hans


On Jun 14, 2010, at 6:41 PM, D&B Lambert wrote:

> Hello Hans,
> I got some o-rings from Britalia (in Fullerton) that replace the  
> neoprene
> cup washers that Moss sells.  They are green instead of black.  Not  
> sure
> what they are made of, and I haven't tried them yet since the ones  
> I got
> were the wrong size.  Of course I can't blame Walt - we were in the  
> shop one
> afternoon discussing the leaking problem, he reached into a parts  
> drawer and
> gave me 4 green o-rings - gratis (don't tell anyone)  :) .  One day  
> I'll get
> back there and purchase the correct ones.  If you do get some from  
> Britalia,
> perhaps you could buy 4 extra and I'll get them from you the next  
> time I see
> you at an event or at a TRSC meeting, at which time I'll reimburse  
> you of
> course.
> Thanks, Dennis Lambert
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
>> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hans de Ferrante
>> Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 4:10 PM
>> To: Triumph List
>> Subject: [TR] Teflon washers in SU Carbs
>>
>> Re: 1961 TR3a with S U, type H6 carbs.
>> I heard during a TR gathering, that there are teflon washers  
>> available
>> in lieu of the old cork or neoprene cup washers that seal the jet. It
>> seems that the  leaky carbs with the consequential gas (sorry,  
>> petrol)
>> smelly garages and sometimes houses is quite a common complaint. I
>> have tried soaking the cork washers in oil as long as 3 days, but it
>> helped only temporarily; the neoprene washers helped but made the
>> choke hard to operate. Could not find anything in the Moss or  
>> Victoria
>> catalogs or on line, other than that they were standard on the later
>> types and probably not the same.
>> Has anyone ever tried these and with what results?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Hans deFer

From davidt at opentext.com  Fri Jun 18 18:39:56 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 20:39:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3a control box
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B016DF46E@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Evening all

In the prep for the alternator switch, I see comments about "gutting"
the control box.  I would prefer not doing this on a perfectly good
control box :-)  So, does someone have a control box sitting on the
shelf that is willing to part with and can rip the guts out?  If so,
please contact me offline.

Many thanks
David Templeton
'59tr3a
'74spitsix

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Jun 18 19:19:24 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 21:19:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Don_Stanford=3A__The_Red_Car?=
Message-ID: <20100619011816.78FBF187655@autox.team.net>

It is a wonderful book. I came across it in junior high in 1964, read it and lived it!
I love the story to this day.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Justin Wagner" <jmwagner at greenheart.com>
Date: Fri, Jun 18, 2010 20:17
Subject: [TR] Don Stanford:  The Red Car
To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>, "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Okay... so, as I mentioned in a prior post, I recently acquired this book off the internet after looking for it in used book stores for something like over 10 years! (After a Triumph newsgroup member mentioned the book and put out a request for it!)

Today, I finally sat down and read the book!   I felt I had to read it before shipping it off to one of my nephews!

What a great story!  It really took me back to my early days of discovering auto mechanics and tinkering on my first car at the age of 15.  My own father wasn't that much different than the main character Hap's father.    He distanced himself from my work on the car and word was, he thought it would just be a good experience for me to tinker on the car, only to have the unfinished project sold off in a few months.  He was right that it would be a good experience, he was wrong to think it would never be done.  A year later, the car was on the street, registered, and ready for his now 16 year old son to drive! 
I even had a moment with my father where he said my Triumph was only good for parades and shouldn't be driven on the highways.  I talked my dad into taking a drive in my car.   He drove it a few blocks and I couldn't take it.  He was going 25 mph in 3rd hear!  He was driving it like it was a Model A.   I took over the driver's seat and drove him to a straight away just a block from our home.  I asked him to be sure his seat belt was tight and just as he said it was, I floored it.  I chirped it into second, throwing his head back.  I chirped it into third, throwing his head back again. Before he knew it, I was in fourth going about 110 mph just as I downshifted and brought the car to a stop.   Then I asked him if he still thought my car was only good for parades.  And then I started to realize what I had just done... I had just driven like a maniac with my father in the car on a residential street near our house!  I wasn't sure what was going to come next!  He just sat there for a moment, got his bearings, took an overdue breath, exhaled, and asked, "Can we do that again?"    (I'm sure I shared that story here before, but it never gets old!)

And while I never had an old salt of a mechanic to teach me, like the character Frenchy, he certainly resembles a composite of men I looked up to in my youth.  And, yes, I had an older brother  that  I learned a lot from before I flipped it around and started teaching him!  : )

I have no doubt that I would have loved this book back then!  And I would highly recommend the book for grand kids, nephews, etc.  Or to adults that could use a lesson that might help them to understand the attraction to these beasts.

The book stands up to the 21st century pretty well.   The fact that there's no cell phones, Ipods, computers, etc. etc. in the story isn't even an issue.  And the dialogue isn't so full of out dated vocabulary that it draws attention to itself.  The main character, "the Red Car" is presented as an older model MG, so it just reads as an old British car.  That 60 years has passed doesn't really matter.   About the only thing thing that might need a reality check for a young teen reading the book is that an old MG TC, with a little damage, isn't going to sell for $50.00.  And a $400 college fund isn't going to buy even the first semester's books!   Etc. 
Too bad it was published in 1954!   He probably wrote the book long before it was published.   If he had only waited a little longer, perhaps a TR2 would have been in the mix of the wonderful cars highlighted in the story.

--Justin Wagner

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Fri Jun 18 19:23:58 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 20:23:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Don Stanford:  The Red Car
In-Reply-To: <4C1C0C9E.4040904@greenheart.com>
References: <4C1C0C9E.4040904@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W4D023E3CC62B5F1DE946CE1C10@phx.gbl>

I agree it was a fun book to read, but I got my from Amazon in a few days.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 17:17:34 -0700
> From: jmwagner at greenheart.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Don Stanford: The Red Car
>
> Okay... so, as I mentioned in a prior post, I recently acquired this
> book off the internet after looking for it in used book stores for
> something like over 10 years! (After a Triumph newsgroup member
> mentioned the book and put out a request for it!)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jun 18 21:08:13 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 20:08:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Teflon washers in SU Carbs -The scoop
In-Reply-To: <9B8D72CF-4A14-44F1-BF62-8570E9059550@roadrunner.com>
References: <C41E0692-8283-4AD6-8626-624F75F83CEA@roadrunner.com><C04634E18B69447FB1C1B5E1E064B022@Lambert1>
	<9B8D72CF-4A14-44F1-BF62-8570E9059550@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <011801cb0f5c$a7ffacf0$0301a8c0@randall>

> The green  o-rings are not teflon. They are actually made for 
> the air  
> conditioning  industry and are available from A.C. supply houses. 

Apparently a material known as HNBR, also as "high temperature Buna-N".  Has
good resistance to Freon, particularly R134a (which will eat neoprene).

I still don't know the proper dimensions offhand, but it looks like a box of
100 is about $4 from MMC.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#hnbr-o-rings/=7ldhyv

Randall

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Jun 19 07:20:31 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 09:20:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] RainX
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinaOleSMGHan8s6YFsEZonFW2174YrLmzRpg5Yq@mail.gmail.com>
References: <641080.49965.qm@web83507.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>,
	<664443.20509.qm@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>,
	<3FDDD04230274E5391CB69DCA289DB1A@mde.state.md.us>,
	<AANLkTinaOleSMGHan8s6YFsEZonFW2174YrLmzRpg5Yq@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W1290F481F15552E2186C8ABAC10@phx.gbl>

I have been using the stuff for probably 20 some years and have not seen any
issues.

Marty

> Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 07:51:04 -0500
> From: jdinnis at gmail.com
> To: opposumking at verizon.net
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] RainX
>
> It also attacks some kinds of rubber and plastic.  Rumor goes that the
> stuff will make it more likely for you windshield to crack and shatter
> because it attacks the laminated plastic layers in the safety glass.
>
> On Fri, Jun 18, 2010 at 5:01 AM, Nolan <opposumking at verizon.net> wrote:
> >> does rainx also bounce the bugs off your windshield? :-)
> >> does it make cleaning them off easier?
> >
> > Yes, for a little while.


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Jun 19 07:35:08 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 09:35:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Vent Banjo Bolt
Message-ID: <913E73E562684730B08EC6384198ECAA@CarlPC>

Anyone have a spare -
Or, anyone figured out an alternative.

Obviously mine has gone to the great big box in the sky - never to be seen 
again.  I must have removed it when the tank was cleaned and coated; and the 
bolt in place is a drain plug.   I know what will happen

Thanks
Carl 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Jun 19 07:37:12 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 09:37:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Vent Banjo Bolt
Message-ID: <17961106A1FA49F3A002DAF541DE2630@CarlPC>

A second thought - anyone have an image?  maybe I am seeing it but not 
seeing it...
C

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 9:35 AM
Subject: TR3 Fuel Vent Banjo Bolt


> Anyone have a spare -
> Or, anyone figured out an alternative.
>
> Obviously mine has gone to the great big box in the sky - never to be seen 
> again.  I must have removed it when the tank was cleaned and coated; and 
> the bolt in place is a drain plug.   I know what will happen
>
> Thanks
> Carl 

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sat Jun 19 09:29:19 2010
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:29:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Don Stanford:  The Red Car
Message-ID: <410-220106619152919958@earthlink.net>

For those of you who like to read stories of cars and racing, Bert Levy has
written a series of four novels you will enjoy. They should be read in
order.

The Last Open Road 
Montezumas Ferrari 
Fabulous Trashwagon 
Toly's Ghost 

Burt Levy tells about a young man (Buddy Palumbo) and his gang of friends
from New Jersey. Good novels and documentary of road racing in the late
fifties.The author weaves his fictional characters into the late fifties -
early sixties sports car and Formula 1 racing scene with considerable
accuracy. He inserts too much of his opinion about the politics of the day
and the nature of marriage; but, other than that, it's a good read if you
enjoy the wide-open, dangerous road-racing scene from the fifties. Again,
he crafts a rich tapestry of American sports car racing's glory days in the
1950s, set against the Post-War political and social backdrop. At times the
story drags as Buddy delves into monologues, but overall, it's fine
escapist literature for anyone with the car bug. If you like racing
particulaly that in the past - this is outstanding. It is fair to say that
too much of it is being told to you through somebody else - but that is the
only way to do it and it is masterfully done.


Just my opinion,
Greg Gelhar

From OC at 46thFoot.com  Sat Jun 19 13:26:31 2010
From: OC at 46thFoot.com (Michael Hargreave Mawson)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 20:26:31 +0100
Subject: [TR] Updated Triumph Acclaim website
Message-ID: <xtB7VpVnnRHMFwGG@hargreave-mawson.demon.co.uk>

Dear All,

No, not the long-awaited complete photographic survey of Andrea, my Avon 
Acclaim, but the addition of an Avon sales brochure and an amusing BL 
publication for employees only, explaining how to deflect criticism of 
their new HondaXXXXX Triumph.   Both can be accessed from my "Ultimate 
Triumph" facts and figures page, here:
<http://www.hargreave-mawson.demon.co.uk/AcclaimFAQ.html>

Navigation is a bit long-winded, so here are the direct links if you are 
unwilling to follow the trail laid out for you:

Avon Sales Brochure:
<http://www.hargreave-mawson.demon.co.uk/Avon1.jpg>
<http://www.hargreave-mawson.demon.co.uk/Avon2.jpg>
<http://www.hargreave-mawson.demon.co.uk/Avon3.jpg>
<http://www.hargreave-mawson.demon.co.uk/Avon4.jpg>

Internal Booklet:
<http://www.hargreave-mawson.demon.co.uk/emphand.jpg>
(Scroll right to read the whole booklet)

Enjoy!

ATB
-- 
Mike
Lisa   - 1935 Green Standard Ten Saloon De Luxe 175469 DL
Ellie  - 1963 White Triumph Herald 1200 Convertible GA125624 CV
Vicky  - 1977 Russet Brown Triumph 2500S Automatic Estate MP6711 SCA
Andrea - 1983 Cashmere Gold Avon Triumph Acclaim CD SAXXDELX3BM193237
Aneka  - 1984 Cashmere Gold Triumph Acclaim CD SAXXDELX7BM232714

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jun 19 14:09:13 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 13:09:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Vent Banjo Bolt
In-Reply-To: <17961106A1FA49F3A002DAF541DE2630@CarlPC>
References: <17961106A1FA49F3A002DAF541DE2630@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <000501cb0feb$83f98490$0301a8c0@randall>

> A second thought - anyone have an image?  

Check out item 32 at
http://tinyurl.com/2wwbc6l

One solution might be to just plug off the stock vent and instead drill a
small hole through the inner fuel cap.  I did that a long time ago, when I
discovered the fuel would spill out the stock vent during a left turn with
the tank nearly full.  

Of course then you have to be a bit more careful not to overfill the tank,
but it's not been a problem for me.

Randall

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat Jun 19 15:04:12 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 17:04:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] AC Fuel Pump Rebuild
Message-ID: <06480A3C85BF4FAF941BC66DB6EB8F81@TRGUY>

Installing TRF AC fuel pump kit for the TR4 and I have to say it is a very
nice kit with all the parts.  I noticed that the rebuilder of the pump
sometime in the past used some sort of sealing compund around the threads to
the screws that hold the top and bottom lids together as well as on the flat
outside circumference ring of the inner seal where the diaphragm is installed.
It wasn't teflon tape but a rubber like substance that was elastic and green
(what was left of it).  Are you supposed to use sealant?  If so, what are
folks using?
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6 CF35914U
Maitland, FL

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat Jun 19 15:38:09 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 17:38:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinhmrNv0VlTTr5laQELC-5bn82aqu-C85Q0jMle@mail.gmail.com>
References: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY><AANLkTik_Yc4iChXAosVSxlRMY8Kw_5UK4gZJgU4qHLxX@mail.gmail.com><8CB9714AE9524D609BFE19A3530A7EE3@TRGUY>
	<AANLkTinhmrNv0VlTTr5laQELC-5bn82aqu-C85Q0jMle@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <34A92E3EB8DD4259A8096B6CC98C1C85@TRGUY>

Geo:
Great catch.  It has a vintage 60s AM Blaupunct radio and I will check to 
see if it has a switch on the back.
Jim Henningsen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
Cc: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground


> On 6/18/10, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>> ...I found out it has been switched to neg ground.
>
> If you choose to return to positive ground -- you said "My goal is to
> bring him back to his natural beauty as he was born from the factory"
> -- then you will want to check the polarity of any radio or other
> sound equipment in place.  These components are usually polarity
> sensitive.
>
> If you happen to have an 'original' (really dealer-installed) radio
> you may find that it has a slide switch or rotating plug which can
> change its polarity.
>
> Geo

From joe.simcoe at gmail.com  Sat Jun 19 16:03:36 2010
From: joe.simcoe at gmail.com (Joe Simcoe)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 17:03:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 250 for sale
Message-ID: <AANLkTinBDT0oAKVo5JvYJ2eaCNkWlDKMrMjNwHrdu2oP@mail.gmail.com>

This is a modern day "Barn Find" . . . .I have had a TR250 in storage for
the past 15 years. Along with a 73 TR6 they are both off frame with all
parts boxed and stored.  The 250 had a restoration begun, it is a very solid
rust free car, and would be a very good candidate for restoration.  Also in
storage are most of the parts (excluding body and frame) of another 76 TR6.
 So, three cars . . . boxed, crated and stored for over 15 years now waiting
for the right person(s) to restore it (them) . . .

All in all, there are 3 engines, 3 transmissions, 3 diffs, 4 gas tanks, 3
sets of seats, (the 250 seats were restored prior to storage) MANY MANY new
parts waiting on the restoration.

I estimate that I have approx $20,000 in parts in the garage not counting
the two cars.  I know this is the same sad story you always here - "started
a restoration and didn't finish" but it is a GREAT opportunity to get into a
very nice TR250 with a little (ok maybe a lot) of work.  But the parts and
pieces are all here.

I am fixing to move, and now realize that I just won't ever get to this
project so it has to go.  I am asking $8,500 for everything.  I have
pictures to send if anyone is interested.

The cars are located in Baton Rouge LA . . . you can contact me ( Joe Simcoe
) at joe.simcoe at gmail.com

If you aren't interested tell your friends and the other members of your
clubs, I would really like to see this all go to someone who is going to
appreciate it and enjoy it

Joe Simcoe

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jun 19 17:30:02 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 16:30:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] AC Fuel Pump Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <06480A3C85BF4FAF941BC66DB6EB8F81@TRGUY>
References: <06480A3C85BF4FAF941BC66DB6EB8F81@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <009a01cb1007$57dda4b0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Are you supposed to use sealant?  If 
> so, what are folks using?

No sealant should be necessary.  However, I put a very light smear of
Hylomar on the sealing surfaces of the castings (not visible once it's
assembled), just in case.

Randall

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Sun Jun 20 00:09:26 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (HANS DEFERRANTE)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 23:09:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
In-Reply-To: <000001cb0eb4$fde497f0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY>
	<000001cb0eb4$fde497f0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <12F0F2CE-F934-4159-B399-0C0B25498BA2@roadrunner.com>

> For negative ground, the "-" or "SW" terminal of the coil should be
> connected to the distributor, the other to the wiring harness.  For  
> positive
> ground, the "+" or "CB" terminal goes to the distributor.

Randall, are I you sure this is necessary?  I did not do this on  
mine; I  only re-polarized the generator and swapped the ammeter  
leads and she has been running beautifully. Electronically, I don't  
see how it makes any difference. Is there something I am missing or  
that could ultimately be harmful?
  Although not related to the Lucas coil's polarity, the only thing I  
wondered about was if the capacitor (condenser) across the points was  
polarized, but I didn't see any evidence of that.

Hans


>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ 
> tr3 at roadrunner.com

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun Jun 20 06:39:11 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 08:39:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Gearbox ID
Message-ID: <EFE0C4D79ADC407EAC319FDB94AA350F@TRGUY>

Happy Father's Day to all the dads out there. i hope you don't mind the
questions, but new project, new excitement. I have a 62 TR4 with factory OD.
Is there a way to identify if the car has the optional 4.1:1 rear axle ratio?
ID numbers?
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 20 07:31:28 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 06:31:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Hi RPM's
Message-ID: <878809.90027.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
I'm having computor problems so this is why I'm replying so late to the list
on this thread.
 
I want to THANK EVERYONE of their replies to me.
 
I think I have "fixed' the problem by loosening the carb levers (see Moss
catalog for the location of theses) on the carb linkage to tighten them up
again. I think that I had these levers in to close to the carbs & causing them
to bind up.
 
I have had the carbs rebuilt by Joe Curto back in '98. I also checked for air
leaks & Dash pots problems as suggested by many.

-Cosmo Kramer

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jun 20 07:56:45 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 06:56:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
In-Reply-To: <12F0F2CE-F934-4159-B399-0C0B25498BA2@roadrunner.com>
References: <06FFB21C80454094920CDC0822C18D07@TRGUY><000001cb0eb4$fde497f0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<12F0F2CE-F934-4159-B399-0C0B25498BA2@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <013a01cb1080$6c2e67f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> > For negative ground, the "-" or "SW" terminal of the coil should be
> > connected to the distributor, the other to the wiring 
> harness.  For  
> > positive
> > ground, the "+" or "CB" terminal goes to the distributor.
> 
> Randall, are I you sure this is necessary?

It's not absolutely necessary.  But most sources will tell you to do it, and
the OP was wanting to know what to look for, so I mentioned it.

In theory, the spark plugs are easier to fire with the proper polarity
(somewhat the same effect as a vacuum tube diode).  Thus, changing the coil
polarity should reduce the chances of having a misfire under conditions
where the spark is marginal (low voltage, eroded points, high rpm, etc).
But in practice, the difference is too small to notice, at least if the
engine has had a tune-up in recent history.

> Electronically, I don't  
> see how it makes any difference.

Here's a rather more lengthy article on the subject, along with some test
methods:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm

> Is there something I am missing or  
> that could ultimately be harmful?

Running with the polarity backwards won't damage anything directly.  In
fact, some engines fire the plugs backwards on purpose. (I had an old Honda
motorcycle that fired one plug backwards.)  Worst case, the engine might
need a tune-up a bit more often (or waste more fuel when it needs one).

>   Although not related to the Lucas coil's polarity, the only 
> thing I  
> wondered about was if the capacitor (condenser) across the 
> points was  
> polarized, but I didn't see any evidence of that.

No, the condenser is a non-polarized type (typically paper).  It has to be,
because the kickback from the coil (when the points open) is opposite to the
battery polarity (thus the condenser sees voltage in both directions).

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jun 20 08:10:16 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 07:10:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Gearbox ID
In-Reply-To: <EFE0C4D79ADC407EAC319FDB94AA350F@TRGUY>
References: <EFE0C4D79ADC407EAC319FDB94AA350F@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <013b01cb1082$4efce2e0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Is there a way to identify if the car has the optional 4.1:1 
> rear axle ratio?

If the factory installed a 4.1 axle, then the calibration number on the
speedometer will be higher than usual; somewhere around 1350 instead of
1150.

But since parts are swapped around so often, the only way to be certain what
is in there now is to check the ratio directly.  One way is to jack up one
rear wheel (leaving the other blocked from turning) and mark the driveshaft.
Now count driveshaft turns while you move the wheel through exactly two
turns.  If the driveshaft turned a bit less than 4 full turns, it's a 3.7.
If it turned a bit more, then it's a 4.1.  You can make the difference more
noticeable by going for more turns of course; 20 full turns on the wheel
should give you either 37 or 41 turns of the driveshaft.

Oddly enough, my previous TR3A was equipped with a 4.1 by the factory (only
car I've ever seen that was) but had a 3.7 when it came to me.  My current
TR3 had a 3.7 installed by the factory (no OD), but had a 4.1 when it came
to me (and still no OD).  My long-range plans are actually to convert it to
3.45 gears (from a Triumph saloon or PI TR6) as the 4.1 gears are a waste
(and the local police tend to frown on spinning the wheels in 1st gear).
With the short, wide tires I use, the 3.45 will give me about the same
effective gearing as the 3.70 and the original tall skinny tires.

Randall

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Jun 20 16:25:29 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 17:25:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Pos_Ground_v=2E_Neg_Ground?=
Message-ID: <20100620222423.DA673187649@autox.team.net>

It actually produces a better spark to have proper polarity. It will function,  albeit less strongly, reverse wired. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "HANS DEFERRANTE" <tr3 at roadrunner.com>
Date: Sun, Jun 20, 2010 01:09
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>

> For negative ground, the "-" or "SW" terminal of the coil should be
> connected to the distributor, the other to the wiring harness.  For  
> positive
> ground, the "+" or "CB" terminal goes to the distributor.

Randall, are I you sure this is necessary?  I did not do this on  
mine; I  only re-polarized the generator and swapped the ammeter  
leads and she has been running beautifully. Electronically, I don't  
see how it makes any difference. Is there something I am missing or  
that could ultimately be harmful?
  Although not related to the Lucas coil's polarity, the only thing I  
wondered about was if the capacitor (condenser) across the points was  
polarized, but I didn't see any evidence of that.

Hans


>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ 
> tr3 at roadrunner.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Sun Jun 20 20:40:08 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 19:40:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pos Ground v. Neg Ground
Message-ID: <BB70F717-6C9C-4181-A5B7-09890CC4ECB5@roadrunner.com>

RE:

>> For negative ground, the "-" or "SW" terminal of the coil should be
>> connected to the distributor, the other to the wiring
> harness.  For
>> positive
>> ground, the "+" or "CB" terminal goes to the distributor.



> Randall, are I you sure this is necessary?

Thanks, guys. It just never occurred  to me that the plugs could  be  
polar sensitive to some extent. It should have ---  dahhh
I have already switched them.

Hans

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Mon Jun 21 07:43:17 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 09:43:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 & 6 gas tanks
Message-ID: <AANLkTil_yNp9oRd6zaPff2thOptevLqMiRzb_m9MeTbT@mail.gmail.com>

Will a TR6 gas tank fit and work in a TR4?  The only two differences I
can find in the TR6 tank is the little emissions breather nipple close
to the filler neck and the height of the filler neck itself.  The TR6
neck seems to be a little taller than the TR4 neck.

Thanks!

Brad

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 21 08:03:14 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 14:03:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] FW: fuel additives-nitromethane
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinBbKL362UR10s6E9lIpM-PHxnTClSDcHblk18o@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinBbKL362UR10s6E9lIpM-PHxnTClSDcHblk18o@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W38631D3525C6C8E6ADC6E2E5C30@phx.gbl>

Did anyone else get this message or was my address mined somewhere else?

Best regards,
Tom



Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 15:54:03 +0800
Subject: Re: fuel additives-nitromethane
From: jqz.juxin at gmail.com
To: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com

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From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Jun 21 12:40:19 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 11:40:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Solenoid Position
Message-ID: <889016.37646.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     The TR3 starter solenoid - does it mount with the starter button on the
back or the front?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jun 21 13:07:55 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 12:07:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW: 73 Triumph Stag for sale in Virginia USA
Message-ID: <04fd01cb1175$0e767080$2b635180$@rr.com>

I know nothing about the car, just trying to help out a fellow Stag owner.
Please reply directly to dave_stringer at att.net if you are interested (as he
is not on the Team.Net lists AFAIK).

73 was arguably the best (and last) year for Stags in the USA.  The cooling
system had been totally redesigned by the factory to sort out all the
earlier problems with marginal cooling.

-- Randall 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stag at digest.net [mailto:owner-stag at digest.net] On Behalf Of
dave_stringer at att.net
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 11:34 AM
To: stag-digest at digest.net
Subject: [stag] Shameless plug

Hi, I am a regular viewer to this forum and long time Stag owner.  Due to
possible move have to look at selling my Stag.  Here is the link if anyone
is interested.  This is my 5th Stag (4 owned in UK).  All maintanance done
by
myself, original engine, runs like a dream.  Yes, it does have the odd oil
leak, small scratches to the paint, etc but is solid and no "bodges" as us
Brits say.  All genuine parts used wherever possible.  Timing chains were
replaced when I got the car 18 years ago.  Car in Abingdon, VA.
 
http://www.vtr.org/classifieds/detail.php?siteid=4906
 
Dave Stringer

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 21 13:38:03 2010
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 15:38:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Solenoid Position
In-Reply-To: <889016.37646.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <889016.37646.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W102F0792377BEA25B272A1A5C30@phx.gbl>

Back, I think.

> Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 11:40:19 -0700
> From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Solenoid Position
>
> The TR3 starter solenoid - does it mount with the starter button on the
> back or the front?
>
> -Bill in Tehachapi
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jrherrera90 at hotmail.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jun 21 14:00:31 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 20:00:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Gearbox ID
In-Reply-To: <EFE0C4D79ADC407EAC319FDB94AA350F@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <416249076.6382851277150431172.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

jack up one wheel.
have someone rotate the wheel ten times while you count the differential bolts going by.
do the math.  don't forget to the 2/1 factor for the diferential effect with the other wheel not turning.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:

> From: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
> To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 7:39:11 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] TR4 Gearbox ID
>
> Happy Father's Day to all the dads out there. i hope you don't mind
> the
> questions, but new project, new excitement. I have a 62 TR4 with
> factory OD.
> Is there a way to identify if the car has the optional 4.1:1 rear axle
> ratio?
> ID numbers?
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Jun 21 14:34:11 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 16:34:11 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Solenoid Position
Message-ID: <284ff.5eebfc1c.395126c3@aol.com>

Mine's on the back, and I assume that to be correct. I am sure that is the  
case on all the previous sidescreen TR's owned between myself and my dad.  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Jun 21 14:59:55 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 16:59:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: 73 Triumph Stag for sale in Virginia USA
References: <04fd01cb1175$0e767080$2b635180$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <A1279A7007AF4D81ABDDDB8E8C60BEFF@Edscomputer>

Re Stag problems:

So marginal cooling solved the earlier problems?

EW

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Jun 21 15:25:00 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 14:25:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Solenoid Position
In-Reply-To: <889016.37646.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <889016.37646.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a06240806c84588fa2dbf@[192.168.2.4]>

>Hi Bill, the Button faces the front of the car ...




>      The TR3 starter solenoid - does it mount with the starter button on the
>back or the front?
>
>      -Bill in Tehachapi


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jun 21 15:47:20 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 14:47:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW: 73 Triumph Stag for sale in Virginia USA
In-Reply-To: <A1279A7007AF4D81ABDDDB8E8C60BEFF@Edscomputer>
References: <04fd01cb1175$0e767080$2b635180$@rr.com>
	<A1279A7007AF4D81ABDDDB8E8C60BEFF@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <054c01cb118b$56d46ec0$047d4c40$@rr.com>

> So marginal cooling solved the earlier problems?

A matter of opinion, of course.  But it seems to me that the main reason the
Stag did so poorly in the American market was its propensity to overheat and
consequent serious engine damage.  The early cooling system likely was
adequate for the UK market, with their relatively mild climate, fewer hills
and so on.  But particularly when combined with the detuned engine that the
US market got, it just didn't work very well.  And a single round of
overheating was apt to warp one or both heads, producing major repair bills.

Even Triumph recognized the problem eventually, and as I understand it, sent
a team to the US for several months to evaluate and understand our driving
conditions.  The Stag then underwent some major cooling system revisions,
including a new intake manifold and water pump housing with provisions for
the thermostat to shut off the bypass, a pressurized recovery bottle,
modified radiator, cooling fan shroud, improved fan "clutch", higher
pressure cap and so on.  I think the water pump itself is the only cooling
part that is common between my two Stags (one of which has been upgraded
with the 1973 cooling system).

The one with the 71 cooling system is still sitting in my driveway, waiting
for me to repair the damage caused (mostly) when it overheated on a hill
coming home from VTR 2005.  At least one head gasket is leaking, which
probably means a warped head, and so on.  And I wasn't even running the air
conditioning.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jun 21 15:48:27 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 14:48:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Solenoid Position
In-Reply-To: <889016.37646.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <889016.37646.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <055c01cb118b$7c1ef100$745cd300$@rr.com>

>      The TR3 starter solenoid - does it mount with the starter button
> on the
> back or the front?

Back.  The cable connections are on the front.

-- Randall 

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 21 17:32:31 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 18:32:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW: 73 Triumph Stag for sale in Virginia USA
In-Reply-To: <054c01cb118b$56d46ec0$047d4c40$@rr.com>
References: <04fd01cb1175$0e767080$2b635180$@rr.com>,
	<A1279A7007AF4D81ABDDDB8E8C60BEFF@Edscomputer>,
	<054c01cb118b$56d46ec0$047d4c40$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W7DB8AA0075C4F5F8939FFE1C30@phx.gbl>

Randall,

I think Ed was making a tongue in-cheek poke at the way your words could be
read.
They could say that the earlier problems were solved by installing a marginal
cooling system.
I do not think anyone seriously read them that way.  It did make me smile when
I saw the way he read them.



Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Jun 21 18:45:10 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 18:45:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Solenoid Position
In-Reply-To: <889016.37646.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <889016.37646.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B3365B2C08D54042975F2E64598D83A4@bboffice>

Bill

Mine is on the back, facing the regulator, as is on all the other TR3's that
I have seen.  I would think it would be very difficult to attach and route
the cables from the battery and to the starter if it were to be the other
way around.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 12:40 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Solenoid Position

     The TR3 starter solenoid - does it mount with the starter button on the
back or the front?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 21 19:12:22 2010
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 18:12:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] [Autojumble] FW: 73 Triumph Stag for sale in Virginia USA
In-Reply-To: <04fd01cb1175$0e767080$2b635180$@rr.com>
References: <04fd01cb1175$0e767080$2b635180$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <558790.11192.qm@web37505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If it was a stick/OD I'd have bought it by now.

I've driven a slushbox Stag a
fair distance......hated it.  Way too "buzzy" at highway speed.

Chad in Tulsa
________________________________
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net; "Autojumble at Autox. Team. Net"
<autojumble at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, June 21, 2010 2:07:55 PM
Subject:
[Autojumble] FW: 73 Triumph Stag for sale in Virginia USA

I know nothing
about the car, just trying to help out a fellow Stag owner.
Please reply
directly to dave_stringer at att.net if you are interested (as he
is not on the
Team.Net lists AFAIK).

73 was arguably the best (and last) year for Stags in
the USA.  The cooling
system had been totally redesigned by the factory to
sort out all the
earlier problems with marginal cooling.

-- Randall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stag at digest.net
[mailto:owner-stag at digest.net] On Behalf Of
dave_stringer at att.net
Sent:
Monday, June 21, 2010 11:34 AM
To: stag-digest at digest.net
Subject: [stag]
Shameless plug

Hi, I am a regular viewer to this forum and long time Stag
owner.  Due to
possible move have to look at selling my Stag.  Here is the
link if anyone
is interested.  This is my 5th Stag (4 owned in UK).  All
maintanance done
by
myself, original engine, runs like a dream.  Yes, it does
have the odd oil
leak, small scratches to the paint, etc but is solid and no
"bodges" as us
Brits say.  All genuine parts used wherever possible.  Timing
chains were
replaced when I got the car 18 years ago.  Car in Abingdon, VA.
http://www.vtr.org/classifieds/detail.php?siteid=4906

Dave Stringer
_______________________________________________

Autojumble at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jun 21 22:44:36 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 21:44:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ryan Newman has a TR6
Message-ID: <B633B12FFBDB4FAA9393FD0AE4B89443@joepentiumnew>

I was watching am episode of "American Pickers and the guys were looking at
his car collection.  In the background was a nice yellow TR6.

Joe

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jun 22 06:25:37 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 08:25:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ryan Newman has a TR6
In-Reply-To: <B633B12FFBDB4FAA9393FD0AE4B89443@joepentiumnew>
References: <B633B12FFBDB4FAA9393FD0AE4B89443@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <2B274BE730F841208CB3D26E17C99E3D@BobPC>

I like his color choice! According to this interview 
(http://tinyurl.com/24nfwhn) it's a '74 that  was his grandfathers car who 
then gave it to Newman who's had it eve since.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2010 12:44 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Ryan Newman has a TR6

> I was watching am episode of "American Pickers and the guys were looking 
> at
> his car collection.  In the background was a nice yellow TR6.
>
> Joe

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Jun 22 07:39:02 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 13:39:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A spring stiffeners.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W356704A3CF27A55E6F5EC7E5C40@phx.gbl>

I remember that Terriann and possibly some others on the list are using an
extra leaf spring on their cars.  If you could please let me know the length
of the extra leaf.

Thanks.

Best regards,
Tom


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Jun 22 08:16:56 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 14:16:56 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] FW: 73 Triumph Stag for sale in Virginia USA
In-Reply-To: <054c01cb118b$56d46ec0$047d4c40$@rr.com>
References: <04fd01cb1175$0e767080$2b635180$@rr.com>
	<A1279A7007AF4D81ABDDDB8E8C60BEFF@Edscomputer>
	<054c01cb118b$56d46ec0$047d4c40$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <142578.87916.qm@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Further to Randall's detailed response on this issue, it's certainly true
the factory undertook some detailed investigation about Stag reliability
problems in the US - but we had much the same difficulties on overheating in
the UK and Europe as well, with very much the same results.
While Randall
covered some points that were remedied for the Mk 2 Stag V8, he omitted to
mention (maybe he was unaware?) that the prime reason for cylinder head
distortion falls at the door of Standard-Triumph's purchasing department and
not that of Engineering. Purchasing, in its never ending pursuit for economies
of scale specified a lower grade alloy from Birmid and it did this without
recourse to Engineering for its prior approval. I've known of this fact for a
number of years but it was confirmed when I recently met and had a long
discussion with Gordon Birtwhistle who was S-T's Senior Test Driver. Gordon
drove several of the very limited Stag prototypes for several tens of
thousands of miles in a number of different climatic conditions without any
cooling problems at all.
One of the points Gordon did raise in our discussion
was that many of the cooling problems in later production cars were the direct
result of blocked coolant passages in the cylinder block caused by chunks of
the original casting cores still in there and not removed by production
operatives! That in itself is more than convincing proof as I know several
owners who have discovered the same when rebuilding their engines. On top of
that, when Joe Pawlak was rebuilding the engine for "uncle jack," he removed a
small 'tree' of core which he showed me when I visited his home mid-way
through the Trans-America Charity Drive last year. At the time of "uj's"
engine teardown, there was evidence of overheating and a blown headgasket on
the same side of the crankcase as Joe found the sandcore! Perhaps it's worth
mentioning that throughout that 15,000 mile trip last year, there were only
two occasions when the engine temp gave me cause for concern and that was
only
 when it was 3/4 across the scale. The first was on a stinking hot day in
early July when I was stuck in a queue to cross into Canada and the second was
in heavy traffic on an even stinkingly hotter day in San Francisco. But
throughout the drive itself and especially in the southern states - Florida,
Alabama, Texas, New Mexico and California, the engine temp stayed stubbornly
at mid-point on the gauge - even when we were climbing Pike's Peak, CO at full
power and at +12,000 feet ASOL. Perhaps if we'd had an electric fan with more
'scooping' on its blades, those two isolated problems at the Frontier and in
S-F might have been avoided?
Finally, "why didn't the Stag sell well in the
US?" Quite apart from the coolant issues aforesaid, it was just too expensive
and having been on sale in the UK and Europe a year before US release, too
many of its early and copiously repeated problems were already known and
widely reported in the press, so probably the car didn't have a chance against
the Benz Coupe at which it was aimed for the US market? FWIW, the Stag and its
two saloon counterparts (2000 and 2500PI) are still my favourites and IMHO,
the best cars the company made post-war. They're certainly the cars that
generated the most pre-tax profits for the company after the demise and sale
of the Ferguson tractor business to Massey Harris.

Jonmac

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun 22 11:23:56 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 10:23:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW: 73 Triumph Stag for sale in Virginia USA
In-Reply-To: <142578.87916.qm@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <04fd01cb1175$0e767080$2b635180$@rr.com>
	<A1279A7007AF4D81ABDDDB8E8C60BEFF@Edscomputer>
	<054c01cb118b$56d46ec0$047d4c40$@rr.com>
	<142578.87916.qm@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000601cb122f$b2629880$1727c980$@rr.com>

> While Randall covered some points that were remedied for the Mk 2 Stag
> V8, he omitted to mention

Well, let's just say I was trying to focus on the positive aspects <G>

But that is interesting about Purchasing choosing the alloy for the heads.
They must've gotten a volume deal on old cheese rinds!

-- Randall 

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Jun 22 11:38:52 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 13:38:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mid-Ohio vintage race
Message-ID: <4C20F52C.8010109@bright.net>

Hello lists.  We will be at Mid-Ohio all week end with our parts and 
apparel trailer. Main location in the paddock with a second booth in the 
infield for Saturday's Brit car show. If you need me to bring anything 
to the track,please let me know.Stop by and say hello.Thanks, Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Jun 22 12:31:04 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 14:31:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Mid-Ohio vintage race
In-Reply-To: <4C20F52C.8010109@bright.net>
References: <4C20F52C.8010109@bright.net>
Message-ID: <8CCE0503520CF78-D48-B42@webmail-m031.sysops.aol.com>

Ted,

Are you coming to Heartland Park in August?  We will have no less than 25
Triumphs running the Kastner Cup and an a very strong club presence in
designated corrals.

Vendor spots are only $100 for each for 10 X 20 spaces.

Thanks,

Joe Alexander








-----Original Message-----
From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx at bright.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>;
spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com; TR8
CCCA Listing <tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>
Sent: Tue, Jun 22, 2010 12:38 pm
Subject: [Fot] Mid-Ohio vintage race


Hello lists. We will be at Mid-Ohio all week end with our parts and apparel
trailer. Main location in the paddock with a second booth in the infield for
Saturday's Brit car show. If you need me to bring anything to the track,please
let me know.Stop by and say hello.Thanks, Ted

-- Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From davgil at aol.com  Tue Jun 22 13:51:57 2010
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 15:51:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph Stag
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1277229602.26645.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1277229602.26645.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CCE05B81808F6B-1728-28A3@webmail-m089.sysops.aol.com>

Randall,
It sounds like you should have a valid warranty claim.  Why don't you take
your Stag back to the dealer and let them deal with that warped head.
David Gill
1976 TR6





essage: 1
ate: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 14:16:56 +0000 (GMT)
rom: John Macartney <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
ubject: Re: [TR] FW: 73 Triumph Stag for sale in Virginia USA
o: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>, triumphs at autox.team.net,
   "Autojumble at Autox. Team. Net" <autojumble at autox.team.net>
essage-ID: <142578.87916.qm at web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
ontent-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Further to Randall's detailed response on this issue, it's certainly true
he factory undertook some detailed investigation about Stag reliability
roblems in the US - but we had much the same difficulties on overheating in
he UK and Europe as well, with very much the same results.
hile Randall
overed some points that were remedied for the Mk 2 Stag V8, he omitted to
ention (maybe he was unaware?) that the prime reason for cylinder head
istortion falls at the door of Standard-Triumph's purchasing department and
ot that of Engineering. Purchasing, in its never ending pursuit for economies
f scale specified a lower grade alloy from Birmid and it did this without
ecourse to Engineering for its prior approval. I've known of this fact for a
umber of years but it was confirmed when I recently met and had a long
iscussion with Gordon Birtwhistle who was S-T's Senior Test Driver. Gordon
rove several of the very limited Stag prototypes for several tens of
housands of miles in a number of different climatic conditions without any
ooling problems at all.
ne of the points Gordon did raise in our discussion
as that many of the cooling problems in later production cars were the direct
esult of blocked coolant passages in the cylinder block caused by chunks of
he original casting cores still in there and not removed by production
peratives! That in itself is more than convincing proof as I know several
wners who have discovered the same when rebuilding their engines. On top of
hat, when Joe Pawlak was rebuilding the engine for "uncle jack," he removed a
mall 'tree' of core which he showed me when I visited his home mid-way
hrough the Trans-America Charity Drive last year. At the time of "uj's"
ngine teardown, there was evidence of overheating and a blown headgasket on
he same side of the crankcase as Joe found the sandcore! Perhaps it's worth
entioning that throughout that 15,000 mile trip last year, there were only
wo occasions when the engine temp gave me cause for concern and that was
nly
when it was 3/4 across the scale. The first was on a stinking hot day in
arly July when I was stuck in a queue to cross into Canada and the second was
n heavy traffic on an even stinkingly hotter day in San Francisco. But
hroughout the drive itself and especially in the southern states - Florida,
labama, Texas, New Mexico and California, the engine temp stayed stubbornly
t mid-point on the gauge - even when we were climbing Pike's Peak, CO at full
ower and at +12,000 feet ASOL. Perhaps if we'd had an electric fan with more
scooping' on its blades, those two isolated problems at the Frontier and in
-F might have been avoided?
inally, "why didn't the Stag sell well in the
S?" Quite apart from the coolant issues aforesaid, it was just too expensive
nd having been on sale in the UK and Europe a year before US release, too
any of its early and copiously repeated problems were already known and
idely reported in the press, so probably the car didn't have a chance against
he Benz Coupe at which it was aimed for the US market? FWIW, the Stag and its
wo saloon counterparts (2000 and 2500PI) are still my favourites and IMHO,
he best cars the company made post-war. They're certainly the cars that
enerated the most pre-tax profits for the company after the demise and sale
f the Ferguson tractor business to Massey Harris.
Jonmac

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Tue Jun 22 14:21:59 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 16:21:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumph Stag
Message-ID: <5d7b8.36d5c1db.39527567@aol.com>

While we're on the subject of Stag stories....
 
We bought our 3rd Mk.1 Stag from a Stag specialist near Heathrow  airport 
in 1986. Immediately after picking it up, we drove it to Scotland (with  
great trepidation) for Christmas. We had some fuel pump problems, but nothing  
that stopped our journey completely. No overheating problems. The following  
year, while driving to work, the car started overheating, in traffic. I  
absolutely had to get to work, so I just drove it. By the time I arrived, the  
needle was in the red. I knew what to expect; warped heads and something 
that  caused it to overheat in the first place. The problem, though, was no 
more than  a failed radiator. With a new, thicker, one fitted, the car ran 
perfectly in  daily use for the next three years, when we sold it. The heads 
didn't warp  and the overheating caused no other damage. I managed to track 
down the single  previous owner, who told me the heads had never been off the 
car and he'd had no  real problems with the vehicle in the 130,000 miles of 
ownership before I  bought it.
 
The only thing that let the experience down was that I later found out the  
dealer I bought it from went to jail for selling a Stag, stealing it back,  
painting it a different colour and selling it again. I suspected he was a  
bit dubious when, upon collecting the car, I noticed it  had a steel spare 
wheel and bald tyre, when I was sure the car had a  matching Mk.2 alloy and 
good tyre when I agreed to buy it.  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun 22 17:09:37 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 16:09:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph Stag
In-Reply-To: <8CCE05B81808F6B-1728-28A3@webmail-m089.sysops.aol.com>
References: <mailman.3.1277229602.26645.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CCE05B81808F6B-1728-28A3@webmail-m089.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <004801cb125f$fc885fa0$f5991ee0$@rr.com>

> It sounds like you should have a valid warranty claim.  Why don't you
> take
> your Stag back to the dealer and let them deal with that warped head.

Good idea!

Unfortunately, some things never change.  The dealers couldn't get parts
then either.
<G>

-- Randall 

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 23 08:30:03 2010
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 07:30:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Leaf Springs vs TR4A Straight Axle Leaf Springs (WANTED)
Message-ID: <686792.85861.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

List members-

I am searching for some TR4A Leaf Springs, Front Mounts, and
rear shackles.  Does anyone have some of these laying around surplus?

What
are the differences between TR4 and TR4A leaf springs?  Length?  Spring rate?
I found a set of TR4 springs and shackles, but I don't know if they will fit.
In case you're wondering, I am adapting an 8" Ford rear into my son's
TR6.....or rather my Son is adapting an 8" Ford rear to his TR6.

Thanks,
Chad in Tulsa

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Jun 24 11:50:13 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:50:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] Uprated water pump question
Message-ID: <90117.78286346.3954f4d5@aol.com>

Hi everyone;
 
Has anyone used the Moss uprated water pump (835-071) on a sidescreen TR? I 
 have to take the front apron off in order to fix a rattly timing chain, so 
I've  got a bad case of "while it's apart-itis". I'm moderately happy with 
the car's  cooling, although it does have a tendency to lose it's temper in 
traffic. With  the three Stags I've owned in the past, I upgraded to a 
12-vane water pump and  the benefit was immense. I've heard talk, though, that 
increasing the flow (if  that's what the upgraded Moss pump does) might not be 
a good thing on a  TR3A, less chance for the fan to cool the coolant.
 
I'm also going to renew or re-core the radiator to eliminate the starting  
handle hole, as I have the gear-reduction starter motor, so that should  
help.
 
Second question (hot topic, this one...): Has anyone fitted the Moss TR6  
fan conversion? My understanding is that the stock fan/fan extension is a  
harmonic balancer and should not be removed. Also, I think I heard talk a few  
years ago that the TR6 fan has to be mounted backwards to make it work. Is 
that  right? I see that part is not in the Moss instructions.
 
Would love to hear some opinions on these two points.
 
Tim

From blambert at socal.rr.com  Thu Jun 24 12:37:39 2010
From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 11:37:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Uprated water pump question
In-Reply-To: <90117.78286346.3954f4d5@aol.com>
References: <90117.78286346.3954f4d5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <496C78BB57374D1084ACD9FF3FC162C1@Lambert1>

Some years ago I installed a yellow TR6 fan by shortening the stock
nosepiece on my TR3A.  I took the nosepiece to a friend with a lathe who
shortened it about 5/8 inch by cutting it and then turning a stepped
reattachment joint into it, which I then had brazed at the local welding
shop (my own welding skills are pretty marginal).  This had the effect of
moving the tr6 fan back far enough to clear the radiator nicely while
allowing the fan to be installed the correct direction.  Moss's new TR6 fan
installation kit appears to accomplish the same thing, just a bit more
elegantly (albeit more expensively).  I would heartily recommend the
conversion, as mounting the TR6 fan is the only cooling mod I have done (I
did have the original radiator rodded) and the cooling seems to function
decently so far, in pretty much any situation - LA traffic included.

The uprated water pump looks pretty similar to the one I purchased from Ken
Gillanders at BFE a few years ago.  After installation I really didn't
notice any great change in the cooling characteristics of the car, and
eventually during another nose-off repair, I changed back to a stock pump.
I have, however, heard stories from others who have had better luck with
that pump.  Of course, YMMV.

Dennis

> Has anyone used the Moss uprated water pump (835-071) on a sidescreen TR?


> Second question (hot topic, this one...): Has anyone fitted the Moss TR6
> fan conversion? My understanding is that the stock fan/fan extension is a
> harmonic balancer and should not be removed. Also, I think I heard talk a
few
> years ago that the TR6 fan has to be mounted backwards to make it work. Is
> that  right? I see that part is not in the Moss instructions.

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Jun 24 13:10:01 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 14:10:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Uprated_water_pump_question?=
Message-ID: <20100624190854.CE9BF187664@autox.team.net>

Who carries the tr6 fan anymore?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "D&B Lambert" <blambert at socal.rr.com>
Date: Thu, Jun 24, 2010 13:37
Subject: [TR] Uprated water pump question
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Some years ago I installed a yellow TR6 fan by shortening the stock
nosepiece on my TR3A.  I took the nosepiece to a friend with a lathe who
shortened it about 5/8 inch by cutting it and then turning a stepped
reattachment joint into it, which I then had brazed at the local welding
shop (my own welding skills are pretty marginal).  This had the effect of
moving the tr6 fan back far enough to clear the radiator nicely while
allowing the fan to be installed the correct direction.  Moss's new TR6 fan
installation kit appears to accomplish the same thing, just a bit more
elegantly (albeit more expensively).  I would heartily recommend the
conversion, as mounting the TR6 fan is the only cooling mod I have done (I
did have the original radiator rodded) and the cooling seems to function
decently so far, in pretty much any situation - LA traffic included.

The uprated water pump looks pretty similar to the one I purchased from Ken
Gillanders at BFE a few years ago.  After installation I really didn't
notice any great change in the cooling characteristics of the car, and
eventually during another nose-off repair, I changed back to a stock pump.
I have, however, heard stories from others who have had better luck with
that pump.  Of course, YMMV.

Dennis

> Has anyone used the Moss uprated water pump (835-071) on a sidescreen TR?


> Second question (hot topic, this one...): Has anyone fitted the Moss TR6
> fan conversion? My understanding is that the stock fan/fan extension is a
> harmonic balancer and should not be removed. Also, I think I heard talk a
few
> years ago that the TR6 fan has to be mounted backwards to make it work. Is
> that  right? I see that part is not in the Moss instructions.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From mdmiles at mdmpe.com  Thu Jun 24 13:16:21 2010
From: mdmiles at mdmpe.com (Michael Miles)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:16:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Water Pump & Cooling
Message-ID: <016a01cb13d1$bb97a000$32c6e000$@com>

When rebuilding my TR3 motor I discovered a huge amount of rust accumulated
behind the #4 liner so I decided to examine the entire cooling system in
more detail.  In the process I found that the port into the engine block
from the water pump was ~30% blocked by casting slag left over when the
engine was originally built!

 

Hence, the port was opened up to match the size of the port on the water
pump itself, as well as converting from the 4-blade paddle to a 6-blade
backward curved impeller (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/index.html).  Lots
of flow with very reduced restrictions.

 

To paraphrase Frank Costin's "Don't punish the air" => "Don't punish the
coolant"

 

Mike Miles

(Morgan +4 lurker) 

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Jun 24 13:52:54 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 15:52:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] Uprated water pump question
Message-ID: <e62ea.2c4b6bfa.39551196@aol.com>

I'm not sure who carries a TR6 fan; a local friend has a bunch of them  
sitting in his garage, so I was thinking I would get one of those. An electric  
one is still an option, obviously.
 
Incidentally, we have an Australian TR Register member visiting us at the  
moment, he has a TR3A. He says the only cooling system modification fitted 
to  his car is what he calls a CT radiator core, which he describes as a TR4 
core  with no starting handle hole. He says it has three cores instead of 
two and is  easy to fit. His temp gauge never gets above the central position, 
even in  traffic when the ambient temperature is 40 degrees celsius (which, 
to me, is  seriously hot! Never gets above about 30 or 32 here).
 
With so many variations on how TR owners' cars run, in terms of coolant  
temperature, and taking out the fact that some metal rubbish sometimes got 
left  in blocks at the factory, I can't help but think that the differences 
might just  come down to variations in manufacturing tolerances.
 
Anyway, thanks everyone for responses so far. Very, very useful.
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Thu Jun 24 14:34:25 2010
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:34:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 supercharger for sale
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F112A72AA@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I know this is not usual, but I wanted to help this guy out if I could.
I received the following and I am just passing it along to anyone
interested.

>From Mr. Thomas L. Otto, Indianapolis, IN
"I am in possession of a supercharger system my brother purchased from
Moss a few years ago. Specifically it is part #150-118 for Triumph TR6
years 1972-76. My brother passed away this spring and I am Executor of
his estate.
Could you suggest ways I might dispose of it. I have advertised it on
some specialty websites, but have received little response."

When contacted, Mr. Otto stated that he would be willing to accept $2500
for the kit, which is unopened

If interested, please contact him directly at:  Thomas L Otto
[tlotto at comcast.net]


Peter Arakelian

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jun 24 15:09:03 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 14:09:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Uprated water pump question
In-Reply-To: <e62ea.2c4b6bfa.39551196@aol.com>
References: <e62ea.2c4b6bfa.39551196@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin-G_3WPgNCh6Rfpd-XFscTgxAEVsHC8SLCIryS@mail.gmail.com>

I've had no experience with an 'uprated' pump but I have had a
'downrated' one -- i.e. an aftermarket with the 4 vanes being much
shallower than the original.

If you have one of those almost anything would be an improvement.  I
see what you mean about looking at what else needs attention whilst
the apron is off -- but the pump of course can be easily changed later
if the other changes aren't enough.

Geo

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Thu Jun 24 15:45:07 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 16:45:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan
Message-ID: <A45A0C45-4706-4478-AB4A-FBF06E929969@ties2.net>

Does anybody have a fan for a TR3A they are willing to sell? I  
discovered that mine has been loose for who knows how long and the  
mounting holes are enlarged.

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Jun 24 15:53:47 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 21:53:47 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
Message-ID: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

I guess this might seem a stupid question to ask of people in a part of the
world where fuel is so cheap - but is it safe to assume it will always be so?
Earlier this week, I had a long talk with an old friend I've known for more
than 40 years who has been the besotted owner for at least 30 of those years
of a 1930 Speed Six Bentley. Okay, that in itself is a car from the collector
stratosphere - but I was both amazed and shocked to learn he now has the car
up for sale. By his own admission, it's not that he has tired of it, come to
be less interested in it - or even that he can't afford to run it. Dave is the
first to admit that he has plenty of money and he could easily keep and
run the Bentley to his dying day. Knowing him as well as I do, I asked him why
the time had come for he and the car to part company?
His answer didn't
exactly surprise me.
"I've reached a point where I feel it's not only a very
selfish whim to continue to drive it and enjoy it but that I am finding it
difficult to reconcile the cost of filling the tank for a weekend of pleasure.
I'm extremely lucky to be able to afford to fill the tank on that beast, but
its the principle of paying such an horrendous amount of money for what is to
all intents and purposes an indulgent pursuit that benefits no-one. Simply,
the cost of pouring fuel into what seems a bottomless tank gives very little
"return" in terms of money per mile on fuel used. And at 12 mpig if I'm lucky,
that works out at 45 pence (70 cents) a mile. That figure is just plain
ludicrous, so  Its time to let someone else enjoy the privilege. It'll break
my heart to see it go - but the time has come."
And that conversation reminded
me of other vehicle enthusiasts I know in similar situations. There are
Triumph and MG owners who are saying"it's been fun but we're not playing this
game any more because of fuel cost" Then there are others of whom several have
shared ownerships in specific vehicles. There's the group of six lawyers who
all have equal shares in a Routemaster Double deck London bus, another group
who lavish care and love on some superb heavy duty trucks - and the steam
engine fraternity who are grumbling (with reason) about the price of coal and
escalating costs for bi-annual boiler safety pressure checks.. 
All of them
are now saying to a greater or lesser extent, "this will have to be the last
year. The costs for enjoyment has got out of reach and this is substantially
dulling the pleasure."
As of today, one US gallon of gasoline in the UK is
selling in supermarkets for the equivalent price of US$6.71 of which the
better part of $6.00 is tax. Franchised gas stations with BP, Shell or Texaco
have higher prices and so I ask this either / or question of all of you who
are inclined to answer

"How high would gas prices have to go in your country
before you would seriously consider giving up your Triumph?" or
"If there was
no way you could buy gas for less than $6 a gallon, what would justify you in
keeping and using your Triumph as you do?"

I've already sold both of my
Triumphs because I simply could not justify the cost of re-fuelling either of
them for the simple entertainment value they gave.. With two cars in the
family, we now put fuel economy at the top of the list and that's why our
household has converted over the last three years to modern high-speed
turbo-diesels of less than 2000cc. They're boring, they're absolutely
reliable, they're fuel efficient and both are returning +50mpg with extremely
low emissions. That's what matters, that's how our motoring will be in the
years to come - and not because of inclinations towards a 'greener'
environment. Running a classic car that does little more than 25mpg (because
it was never designed to do it) is simply throwing good money after bad. And
that's exactly how my friend with the Bentley feels which is why he's selling
it - and it's a view being ever more widely propounded throughout western
Europe. The price of fuel is slowly killing
 the hobby.

Jonmac

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Thu Jun 24 16:50:42 2010
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 18:50:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
Message-ID: <1842C0FADC9D4362B60031BE63345230@artvac412870f0>

Please excuse the way I spelled Brooklands.  That's Bad...
Spellcheck still telling me to change it.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 6:40 PM
To: "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>; "Triumph List" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)

> Hi John,
>
>  There is no way to put oneself in another's Shoe's and attempt to share 
> or
> understand his rational behind his decision. He is indeed a lucky Man to 
> have
> that Car,(Woolf Barnato, Brooklyn, LeMans, come to mind,  and he obviously
> understands as do a lot of us that we're just the Caretaker's of our Car's 
> that are
> Collectible and not of the disposable sort just like our Home's that we 
> have.
> I'm a former Bentley owner (a 48 Mk VI) and currently own a 65 Silver 
> Cloud III
> the last of the Coach Built Rolls. But I could summarize my selfish 
> thoughts of
> being in his position very easily.
>
>   How much Petrol do You think he could put into his Speed Six over the 
> next
> few year's? Whatever that # is, he would receive a bigger return for his 
> Estate
> after he leaves it than some 1.5% IRA or a dodgy Investment of some type.
> I'd rather be looking at that Bentley every day, (much like a fine Art 
> Investment)
> even when I wasn't enjoying driving it, than looking at a Bank Book 
> reflecting the
> sum of Money I brought in for it. This isn't the right time to sell such a 
> Car and he
> should hang on to that Puppy to the end if he doesn't need the revenue 
> from it.
>
> Cheers,
> Wayne Lee
> Douglas, MA
> 64 TR4
> 69 Spit
> 75 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jun 24 17:35:50 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 16:35:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <006e01cb13f5$fb4a7ff0$f1df7fd0$@rr.com>

> I guess this might seem a stupid question to ask of people in a part of
> the world where fuel is so cheap - but is it safe to assume it will
> always be so?

No, of course not.  IMO higher fuel prices are inevitable, for both
political and physical reasons.  There is a vast new demand coming on-line,
for what is fundamentally a limited resource.  Prices simply have to go up.

> "How high would gas prices have to go in your country
> before you would seriously consider giving up your Triumph?" 

To me, it's not really a question of actual price so much as what I can
afford.  If eating beans at home instead of steak at a nice restaurant means
I can keep my Triumph, I probably will do so.

But as yet, I'd have to say that my TR3 compares quite favorably in total
cost of ownership to modern cars that only burn half as much fuel.  The cost
of fuel (at present prices anyway) is overshadowed by purchase price,
depreciation, insurance, maintenance, etc. all of which are lower for the
TR.

Just one example, the battery for a Toyota Prius (which AFAIK is the only
US-legal car rated at near 50 mpg on fossil fuel) runs about $5000.  I paid
$50 for the one in my TR.

-- Randall 

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Jun 24 18:23:50 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 20:23:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
Message-ID: <109689.3f27505c.39555116@aol.com>

I'm with Wayne and Randall;
 
I grew up driving pre-war Bentleys and Alvis' (illegally, I might add, but  
with my dad's approval). Pre war machinery like that really gets me going 
and I  wish so much that I could afford one now. Not to replace the TR, you  
understand.
 
Although I'm in the lower echelons of investment vehicles, I too look at my 
 collector vehicles as pieces of art that give me a thrill every time I 
walk  past them in the garage or every time I look at a picture of them  on the 
wall. People can continue to criticise me for not using them enough to  
warrant keeping them, but really (with the exception of my family) they are 
what  keeps me happy. I'd be miserable without my TR3A or my nearly 
rally-prepped '65  Volvo PV544 Sport. Still, better that the Speed Six-owning chap only 
use his car  one or two weekends a year than it finish up in someone's 
collection who never  uses it and probably doesn't look at it, might even live 
in a different country  from where it's kept. At least by driving it 
occasionally, others will get  pleasure from seeing it. I'm not a 'look at me' type 
with my cars, but I do like  the fact that both of them put smiles on the 
faces of the general public,  as opposed to anger and jealousy that more 
exotic modern stuff might generate.  That counts me as being selfless and not 
selfish; I can make people happy.
 
So, perhaps your mate with the Speed Six might like to just consider  
himself, as I do, as curator of an astonishing piece of industrial history; I am  
sure no-one else would be a better preserver of that wonderful artifact.  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Thu Jun 24 18:53:18 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 20:53:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Thermostat Housing TR4
Message-ID: <BEBBA5A272574768A0CB8ED9242AFE8B@TRGUY>

If I shouldn't be asking here please let me know.   I am in need of a nice
thermostat housing unit for my new TR4.  If you have one for sale, please
contact me offline.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 24 19:18:35 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 18:18:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <1842C0FADC9D4362B60031BE63345230@artvac412870f0>
References: <1842C0FADC9D4362B60031BE63345230@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <904277.16124.qm@web120009.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i agree with Wayne' view on the investment Vs the cost of holding it. at least
till prices return to a higher level.
but what price do we put on our
enjoyment/hobby?
i have been running my TR3 here in California on leaded gas
since putting it back on the road. its costing me about 90.00 a tank.
somewhere around 6.00 a us gallon. and I'm using about a tank a month. i tried
the leaded gas for fun, but I'm finding the motor runs better with the lead
gas. specifically I'm still fighting to get my idle speed down when i stop for
a light. the car behaves better on leaded than unleaded. and the lead tells me
via plugs and exhaust colour if i have my fuel and ignition set right.
I'm
also a golfer. here in California a round of golf is going to cost me around
$75/150. ill get about 5 hours of enjoyment for that. i probably only get 5/6
hours of driving for my 90 bucks. 
my son plays ice hockey, I'm too old and
fat. he pays about 25.00 per hour in a men's league. 
live theater tickets are
about 100.00 for 2 to 3 hours of entertainment.
it would appear to me that my
kind of entertainment is selling for around $30/40 per hour. if i use unleaded
gas in my triumph, i can get my fun for around $8/9 per hour and still have
the car left over to do it all again at a time and place i choose.
i think my
triumph is good value. and as gas prices will inevitably rise so will the cost
of my other entertainment.
the only thing I'm worried about right now is a gas
increase due to removing salt water contaminants from my gas supply! ;-)
Frank
 



________________________________
From: Wayne Lee
<wayne at motorcarriage.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent:
Thu, June 24, 2010 3:50:42 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] What cost to give up your
Triumph? (Rhetorical?)

Please excuse the way I spelled Brooklands.  That's
Bad...
Spellcheck still telling me to change it.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Wayne Lee"
<wayne at motorcarriage.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 6:40 PM
To: "John
Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>; "Triumph List"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph?
(Rhetorical?)

> Hi John,
> 
>  There is no way to put oneself in another's
Shoe's and attempt to share or
> understand his rational behind his decision.
He is indeed a lucky Man to have
> that Car,(Woolf Barnato, Brooklyn, LeMans,
come to mind,  and he obviously
> understands as do a lot of us that we're
just the Caretaker's of our Car's that are
> Collectible and not of the
disposable sort just like our Home's that we have.
> I'm a former Bentley
owner (a 48 Mk VI) and currently own a 65 Silver Cloud III
> the last of the
Coach Built Rolls. But I could summarize my selfish thoughts of
> being in his
position very easily.
> 
>  How much Petrol do You think he could put into his
Speed Six over the next
> few year's? Whatever that # is, he would receive a
bigger return for his Estate
> after he leaves it than some 1.5% IRA or a
dodgy Investment of some type.
> I'd rather be looking at that Bentley every
day, (much like a fine Art Investment)
> even when I wasn't enjoying driving
it, than looking at a Bank Book reflecting the
> sum of Money I brought in for
it. This isn't the right time to sell such a Car and he
> should hang on to
that Puppy to the end if he doesn't need the revenue from it.
> 
> Cheers,
>
Wayne Lee
> Douglas, MA
> 64 TR4
> 69 Spit
> 75 TR6
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Jun 24 19:58:52 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 21:58:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] Timing Chain question
Message-ID: <1b52.48ad68d5.3955675c@aol.com>

>From the responses to my earlier cooling questions, I've realised the water 
 pump can be changed without taking off the front apron of a TR3A. I don't 
know  why, but I've always assumed that anything even close to the front of 
the engine  required front apron removal. Anyway, the real reason I'm 
considering water pump  and rad renewal is because I need to change the timing 
chain, or at least the  tensioner, as it's rattly.
 
So, now the big question is: Can the timing chain be renewed without  
removing the front apron? I suspect it's best to remove it anyway, even if it  
can be done.
 
Answers gratefully received, as always...  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jun 24 20:43:55 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 19:43:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Timing Chain question
In-Reply-To: <1b52.48ad68d5.3955675c@aol.com>
References: <1b52.48ad68d5.3955675c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <09c201cb1410$417aa4e0$0301a8c0@randall>

> So, now the big question is: Can the timing chain be renewed without  
> removing the front apron? 

Not if the stock fan & fan extension are in place.  But it's not too bad if
they were previously removed.

Probably just the tensioner; but if you do replace the chain, I would
suggest replacing both sprockets at the same time.  They tend to wear to
match, so replacing one will cause it to wear quickly to match the other.

I also just recently realized that there is supposed to be a fiber washer on
the post that supports the center of the timing cover.  The washer was not
included in the gasket set I have, so I cut one from a TR2 air filter
gasket.

Also consider installing a Speedi-sleeve on the hub, if you can feel the
mark where the seal rides.

Randall

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Jun 24 22:02:19 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:02:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Timing Chain question
In-Reply-To: <1b52.48ad68d5.3955675c@aol.com>
References: <1b52.48ad68d5.3955675c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <73797D88FC9147B0B65FA9D94EA05A08@CarlPC>

I would say it can be done but extremely - I mean EXTREMELY - difficult. 
Radiator, fan/pulley setup, etc etc would have to come off.

Best to bite the bullet and take off the apron.  Check the front suspension, 
steering, and everything else that 'crawls' at the front of the engine area 
and be content/happy that you did.

Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <KingsCreekTrees at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 9:58 PM
Subject: [TR] Timing Chain question


> >From the responses to my earlier cooling questions, I've realised the 
> >water
> pump can be changed without taking off the front apron of a TR3A. I don't
> know  why, but I've always assumed that anything even close to the front 
> of
> the engine  required front apron removal. Anyway, the real reason I'm
> considering water pump  and rad renewal is because I need to change the 
> timing
> chain, or at least the  tensioner, as it's rattly.
>
> So, now the big question is: Can the timing chain be renewed without
> removing the front apron? I suspect it's best to remove it anyway, even if 
> it
> can be done.
>
> Answers gratefully received, as always...
>
> Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
> 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
> Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
> Canada
> Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
> (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/)
>
> Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for
> horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape 
> Association, the
> Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society 
> and
> the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Jun 24 23:03:56 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 01:03:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C24007C.31756.43A9B358@localhost>

On 24 Jun 2010 at 21:53, John Macartney wrote:

> "How high would gas prices have to go in your country before
> you would seriously consider giving up your Triumph?" or "If
> there was no way you could buy gas for less than $6 a gallon,
> what would justify you in keeping and using your Triumph as
> you do?"

All the answers so far have been dispassionate, practical.  But 
slightly off the mark.

First, if it was about money at all, we'd never have picked up the 
TRs or Spitfires or GT6s at all.  But having done so, the financial 
question should ask how much different the cost is between driving 
the fun cars vs. whatever else is in the garage.  My "real" car is a 
Caravan because I must carry music equipment frequently.  It gets 
about 21mpg.  The GT6 does better than that, and the Spitfire much 
better.  Even with the difference in cost of the gas, the Caravan 
costs more to run.  Were I to replace it with something more 
efficient I'd save not the cost of driving the fun cars but the 
difference between driving them and driving the new efficient car.  
It would be years before the savings paid for the new car.  Of 
course, this isn't the same as burning through fuel at 12mpg.  But 
that is the difference between a rich man's hobby and a commoner's 
hobby.  We, or at least I, chose small cars like mine because they 
were affordable both to buy and to maintain and run.

But the real issue isn't about dispassionate finance.  It is about 
what else you would do instead.  It's about life.  I could sell my 
guitars and sound gear except that I would miss the music.  I could 
give up our TV and data cable or even the phone, except that we enjoy 
them.  I could move into a house even smaller than the one we have or 
even rent an apartment, except that we like living here.  Some of you 
play golf, I am sure.  Is it worth the cost (and aggravation)?  When 
gas becomes too expensive to drive the GT6 I will simple drive it 
less often (assuming I have a better alternative, of course).  When I 
am dead it won't matter but for now I am living.  I must do something 
between now and then.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Jun 25 05:09:48 2010
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 07:09:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
References: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <51911FBD7D9C4AED955AB61371EF0974@mde.state.md.us>

> "I've reached a point where I feel it's not only a very
> selfish whim to continue to drive it and enjoy it but that I am finding it
> difficult to reconcile the cost of filling the tank for a weekend of 
> pleasure.

And that's it there.  It's not the cost of the gas, per se.  It's the lack 
of pleasure.  Or perhaps more accurately the lack of pleasure per cost. 
There does come a point where all of us tire of something.  What was a 
burning hot passion becomes a much cooler curiosity instead.  This can be 
from that MP3 player we just *HAD* to have, that now sits on the shelf, to 
the latest Iphone, and even to a Triumph car.  Never a Jaguar of course. :-)

Does gas price affect my driving habits?  Of course.  As does weather and 
other things.  When it's 100 degrees outside, I'm far more likely to take an 
air conditioned car to the store, and not my Triumph.    When the snow is a 
foot deep, the motorcycle stays in the shed.  And if gasoline becomes $10 a 
gallon, my truck will not move often.  At $10 a gallon pleasure rides in the 
Triumph will be shorter, and less frequent.  That doesn't mean I'm going to 
get rid of the car, but it is a weighing factor.

I do tip my hat to the gent for passing on his Triumph to another to enjoy. 
Far sadder are the cars that sit, gathering dust and rust, because the owner 
refuses to admit they don't enjoy the car any longer.

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri Jun 25 06:26:13 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 08:26:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94613D@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>,
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94613D@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94613F@CMS01.winhosting.local>

My note seems to have bounced off the list - so re-sending...

I don't buy into the argument. Fuel is about $4-$5 per US gallon in Canada so
not terribly cheap, but better than in UK I admit. I think my response is just
to take shorter runs rather than being pushed out of the hobby. I'm not
actually sure what fuel cost is in real dollars today compared to the
seventies. It was not all that cheap back then.

For a real comparison of operating cost versus buy-in value in a hobby one
should look to motorboating. There one can pick up a speedboat from $2,000 to
$250,000; more or less the same range as an old car to a big motorhome or
fancy vintage museum piece. (Of course one can also buy boats in the $100M
range but let's ignore that). For boats, fuel consumption is measured in
gallons/hour with figures ranging between 4-20 being usual on both the cheap
old boat and the new. EFI has helped, but pushing all that water out of the
way is not cheap, period. A short day spent on the water adds up to quite a
fee.

Compare that to a car getting 12-20 mpg verus the 50 mpg turboD. One probably
spends a premium of $10 of fuel for the nice(fun) ride at worst. Going boating
nails the driver for $100 extra for the same time period. Basically our small
cars run for almost no fuel at all when one is just going for a ride or a
small tour in the country compared to an outing on even a small boat. And
frankly, my newish city car gets 21 mpg average which is not a great deal
better than the TR6. i.e. savings = nil. The difference is not efficiency,
it's having 300hp under the hood versus 105.

Back to the real cost of the car hobby with a real vintage unit. If one starts
comparing the cost of a season's fuel for a runabout motorboat versus fueling
a vintage Bentley I think one would rapidly come to the conclusion that the
"consumable versus infrastructure" cost of the bentley is miniscule. Add in
the fact that the B is also appreciating in value (assuming one is not wearing
it out) and the reality is that the owner of the car is driving for much less
than it appears on the surface. If one compares appreciation in real-dollar
value of the car over the past twenty years versus fuel cost, then it is quite
possible that the hobby is at least paying for itself on the consumable
front.

Anyway, for your specific example, if money is not an issue and it's only a
question of philosophy then I would remind the gentleman of that fine old
expression "There are no pockets in a shroud". He can try to have himself
buried with the treasure, but soon after hark to the sound of shovels in the
night...

Best regards,

Mark

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Fri Jun 25 06:52:24 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 08:52:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
Message-ID: <e2cc.4cf2f15.39560088@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/25/2010 1:05:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

All the  answers so far have been dispassionate, practical.  But 
slightly off  the mark.



I don't think any of the answers have been 'off the mark'; I just think we  
all have different opinions and different ways of looking at things, as 
would be  expected from human beings.  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Fri Jun 25 07:16:07 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 09:16:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
Message-ID: <f967.4331cdd3.39560617@aol.com>

John and the List,
 
For me, fuel cost isn't an issue and probably wouldn't be a motivator to  
sell the TR6.  I only put 1000 to 1500 miles a year on the car and I  
consider the car to be spring, summer, fall recreation so I'm willing to kick  in a 
few more bucks for my recreation even as fuel prices will inevitably  rise. 
 Considering that my wife and I are retired and have reduced our  carbon 
footprint from driving/commuting considerably, so I'm not feeling guilty  from 
a Green movement about taking the TR6 out for a meaningless, wandering 20  
mile run into the countryside once in awhile
 
I think that what will eventually lead to me selling the car is either (God 
 forbid) a health problem or entertaining a purchase offer from someone 
which is  simply too good to resist.  The good news is that my health is still 
good,  the bad news is that I've lately had two very good offers to buy the 
car from  two very financially able people....turned them down but it is 
tempting:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U



In a message dated 6/24/2010 6:14:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk writes:

"How  high would gas prices have to go in your country
before you would seriously  consider giving up your Triumph?" or
"If there was
no way you could buy  gas for less than $6 a gallon, what would justify you 
in
keeping and using  your Triumph as you do?"

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Fri Jun 25 07:22:40 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 06:22:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <4C24007C.31756.43A9B358@localhost>
References: <4C24007C.31756.43A9B358@localhost>
Message-ID: <B7A677AC-E059-4455-A184-7E12C25B02CB@gmail.com>

Amen!  That is the same argument I give my wife when she argues very logically
that I/we really do no NEED my TR & my my old 911.  I agree that we do not
NEED them, but I want them because they make my life more enjoyable (and
probably make me feel younger.)

John

> But the real issue isn't about dispassionate finance.  It is about
> what else you would do instead.  It's about life.  I could sell my
> guitars and sound gear except that I would miss the music.  I could
> give up our TV and data cable or even the phone, except that we enjoy
> them.  I could move into a house even smaller than the one we have or
> even rent an apartment, except that we like living here.  Some of you
> play golf, I am sure.  Is it worth the cost (and aggravation)?  When
> gas becomes too expensive to drive the GT6 I will simple drive it
> less often (assuming I have a better alternative, of course).  When I
> am dead it won't matter but for now I am living.  I must do something
> between now and then.
>
> --
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Fri Jun 25 07:39:22 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans defer)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 06:39:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] License Plate Replication
Message-ID: <58d5eee2510a86e2ded7a2296ee51132@roadrunner.com>

I have, for my TR3, still one original black California license plate, 
which is  in fairly decent shape and I intend to re-register with it. I 
understand that there are people that replicate a second one from 
fiberglass or such. Does anyone out there have any  information 
regarding plate replication?

Hans

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Jun 25 08:36:04 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 10:36:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] License Plate Replication
In-Reply-To: <58d5eee2510a86e2ded7a2296ee51132@roadrunner.com>
References: <58d5eee2510a86e2ded7a2296ee51132@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <8CCE28ADFF10541-394-B176@webmail-m019.sysops.aol.com>

 Hans, yes, there are outfits that will do this. However, I suspect that
California -- like many other states -- probably would not be very happy with
you should they discover your 'replica' plate. (In other words, I suspect it's
illegal, but check with CA's DMV to see for sure!)

One source of replica plates, requiring your original to use as a mold:

<http://www.darrylsplates.com/>



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Hans defer <tr3 at roadrunner.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Jun 25, 2010 9:39 am
Subject: [TR] License Plate Replication


I have, for my TR3, still one original black California license plate, which
is  in fairly decent shape and I intend to re-register with it. I understand
that there are people that replicate a second one from fiberglass or such.
Does anyone out there have any  information regarding plate replication?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jun 25 08:47:34 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 07:47:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] License Plate Replication
In-Reply-To: <58d5eee2510a86e2ded7a2296ee51132@roadrunner.com>
References: <58d5eee2510a86e2ded7a2296ee51132@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <0a2d01cb1475$5954cd10$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have, for my TR3, still one original black California 
> license plate, 
> which is  in fairly decent shape and I intend to re-register 
> with it. I 
> understand that there are people that replicate a second one from 
> fiberglass or such. Does anyone out there have any  information 
> regarding plate replication?

Only that it is illegal in CA.  You will need to produce two originals to be
allowed to re-register with them (along with proof that the car was
previously registered with those license plates).  Although there is some
chance the DMV clerk won't notice that one of the plates is a fake, I
wouldn't want to chance it.  AFAIK even the best reproductions available (in
other states) are not steel, and the difference in weight is noticeable if
you hold them in your hands.

My DMV didn't want to do the registration anyway.  I had to quote them
chapter and verse from the law and show how I met each point of the law
(that I was a collector, the car was primarily for exhibition, and so on);
and even then they would only forward my application to Sacramento without
saying whether it would be accepted or not.

Note that "black" plates do not come under the "Year of Manufacture" statute
for TR3s.  My DMV insisted on submitting the paperwork the first time as
YOM, and Sacramento properly rejected it.

Randall

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Jun 25 09:08:10 2010
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 11:08:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] License Plate Replication
References: <58d5eee2510a86e2ded7a2296ee51132@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <98E3EDDD49B94AF2B0A3DC6DCA751CCD@mde.state.md.us>

http://cr8apl8.easystorecreator.com/items/cruise-the-usa-plate-styles/california-/list.htm?1=1

And for those who are sure it's illegal,
The California DMV has finally acknowedged us and is allowing us to make 
100% legal replacement license plates! As of March 1st, 2008 we will be able 
to recreate an old California license plate using the exact font the State 
of California uses on their plates ... under the following conditions: you 
must have legal owner rights to the plate you wish to duplicate - or you may 
duplicate a cleared plate after receiving a clean clearance from the DMV. 
This applies to our fiberglass reenforced plates as well as our .30 gage 
metal plates.

From lherault at bu.edu  Fri Jun 25 09:26:36 2010
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 11:26:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
Message-ID: <005c01cb147a$ccae6d20$6ad6299b@ad.bu.edu>

This question came up at an interesting time. The cost of running my sports
car has always been an issue, once the car moved from being my only
transportation to being the "special" car.  Long ago I decided to run it
only in the summer and to preserve it with the intent that it would be part
of the fun of retirement.   The car spent many a year unregistered and
sitting in a garage when I was married and the kids were young.  Now I can
afford to run the car but am faced with the cost of replacing parts just due
to their age, such as the crash pads.  

I was also just thinking about how much modern vehicles/traffic has reduced
the pleasure of driving my TR-6.   It seems that so many autos these days
are SUVs or at least larger, higher cars.  Their headlights blind you from
behind, hitting all three mirrors due to the height of the headlights and
the inability of modern drivers to leave enough distance between cars even
when traffic is light.  Oncoming cars blind you, again from their headlight
height but also because headlights have become brighter and brighter while
aging eyes are slower to respond to the onslaught.  Even tail/stoplights are
too bright.  I've found them annoyingly bright in daylight even.   It seems
also that the vast majority of drivers (in Mass/RI at least) don't have the
intelligence or are too selfish to use turn signals ever.   

Ron L

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jun 25 09:50:40 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 08:50:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] License Plate Replication
In-Reply-To: <98E3EDDD49B94AF2B0A3DC6DCA751CCD@mde.state.md.us>
References: <58d5eee2510a86e2ded7a2296ee51132@roadrunner.com>
	<98E3EDDD49B94AF2B0A3DC6DCA751CCD@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <0a4101cb147e$2a002b00$0301a8c0@randall>

> And for those who are sure it's illegal,

I would be a lot more impressed with that, Nolan, if it actually came from
the DMV.  It was 2009 when I specifically asked and was told that the CA DMV
would recognize only plates that they had supplied (one of mine was in poor
condition and I was considering having it duplicated).  Reproduction plates
are legal only for "exhibition" not for registration purposes.  That was the
local DMV branch manager, who also happens to be president of the Studebaker
club.  Of course, she might still be mistaken.

Note http://www.cr8apl8.com/ which says
"... and with your valid license plate number and current registration tags
issued from the DMV ..."
except you cannot get current registration tags without having the plates
first.

Also "... LEGAL to display ..." which meshes well with what the DMV manager
told me.  You can _display_ almost anything; as long as the registered plate
is visible while operating on public roads.

Randall

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Jun 25 10:51:42 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 11:51:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?License_Plate_Replication?=
Message-ID: <20100625165036.058DF187645@autox.team.net>

Interesting. In Tennessee, you may display a plate from the year of the car as long as you merely carry your lifetime antique plate somewhere in the car. In this mode, you may operate the car on public roads. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Date: Fri, Jun 25, 2010 10:50
Subject: [TR] License Plate Replication
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

> And for those who are sure it's illegal,

I would be a lot more impressed with that, Nolan, if it actually came from
the DMV.  It was 2009 when I specifically asked and was told that the CA DMV
would recognize only plates that they had supplied (one of mine was in poor
condition and I was considering having it duplicated).  Reproduction plates
are legal only for "exhibition" not for registration purposes.  That was the
local DMV branch manager, who also happens to be president of the Studebaker
club.  Of course, she might still be mistaken.

Note http://www.cr8apl8.com/ which says
"... and with your valid license plate number and current registration tags
issued from the DMV ..."
except you cannot get current registration tags without having the plates
first.

Also "... LEGAL to display ..." which meshes well with what the DMV manager
told me.  You can _display_ almost anything; as long as the registered plate
is visible while operating on public roads.

Randall

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From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Jun 25 11:24:46 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 10:24:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <005c01cb147a$ccae6d20$6ad6299b@ad.bu.edu>
References: <005c01cb147a$ccae6d20$6ad6299b@ad.bu.edu>
Message-ID: <a06240800c84a9374a0d9@[192.168.2.4]>

For us the cost is irrelevant ... not that we are rich or anything 
near that. We both (AnnaBelle and I) work together preparing the TR6 
for the Concours d'Elegance shows we attend ... about six a year.  We 
treat the show as a mini-vacation. For instance the Palo Alto Lions 
show is Sunday.  So we are leaving this afternoon driving both cars, 
the TR3, and TR6 ... the TR3 will be for display only as it is no 
where near original.  Stay at a nice hotel, then we will do the drive 
on Saturday, the show on Sunday, where we hope for a podium finish 
... if not ... we had a great parking place.
The time we spend together is far more valuable than any cost for 
driving the Triumphs, I will admit that we are slowing down ... if 
the weather is predicted to be 100+ ... we will have to stay home.
For us to sit in the open car, with the wind beating you about the 
head and shoulders is nullified by the smooth purr of the 6, and the 
throaty bark of the 3.  At 76 years of age I don't have any idea how 
much longer we will be able to do this, but we will do it, and do it 
together as we have for the 53  years we have been married.
Cost of driving a Triumph ... unmeasurable ... joy ... unfathomable 
... don't give up you bliss



>This question came up at an interesting time. The cost of running my sports
>car has always been an issue, once the car moved from being my only
>transportation to being the "special" car.  Long ago I decided to run it
>only in the summer and to preserve it with the intent that it would be part
>of the fun of retirement.   The car spent many a year unregistered and
>sitting in a garage when I was married and the kids were young.  Now I can
>afford to run the car but am faced with the cost of replacing parts just due
>to their age, such as the crash pads.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
1970 TR6
"Rosey"
CC59179L
Wallace, CA

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Fri Jun 25 13:37:26 2010
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 19:37:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] VTR National room availability
Message-ID: <BAY131-W17D23696F37151EAC887C68BC70@phx.gbl>

There are only 19 rooms available at the Jekyll club the host hotel for the
VTR national, to be held on Jekyll island Ga..



www.vtr2010.org



ronnie babbitt

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri Jun 25 13:48:32 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 15:48:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Uprated water pump question
References: <90117.78286346.3954f4d5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C0EB1C4F40DA47A59D684A8366145FBA@DCS78M81>

A buddy put the 6 fan on his car and to do so had the fan extension milled 
3/16 " from both ends. So the extension ended up 3/8" shorter and had to do 
no other modifications and it does great in the Florida summer heat.  I just 
removed my fan and extension and put the Ken Glanders harmonic balancer on 
and installed an electric puller fan. Also did the alternator upgrade. I had 
an electric pusher fan for years on the 3 and it worked great. Yes, recoring 
is important and leaving out the hole, they make heavy duty cores ( for 
trucks - talk to your radiator guy). While the radiator is out, you can 
install a bolt through the bottom of the radiator mount so that 
reinstallation is much easier.  You just set the radiator down on the bolt 
and install the nut from the top instead of trying to thread the bolt 
through. That was a help from the list probably 15 years ago. I did not 
install the 6 bladed water pump.
just my two cents worth.
Tom
60 TR3A stock
61 TR3A with the upgrades
62 TR4
73 Stag
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <KingsCreekTrees at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 1:50 PM
Subject: [TR] Uprated water pump question


> Hi everyone;
>
> Has anyone used the Moss uprated water pump (835-071) on a sidescreen TR? 
> I
> have to take the front apron off in order to fix a rattly timing chain, so
> I've  got a bad case of "while it's apart-itis". I'm moderately happy with
> the car's  cooling, although it does have a tendency to lose it's temper 
> in
> traffic. With  the three Stags I've owned in the past, I upgraded to a
> 12-vane water pump and  the benefit was immense. I've heard talk, though, 
> that
> increasing the flow (if  that's what the upgraded Moss pump does) might 
> not be
> a good thing on a  TR3A, less chance for the fan to cool the coolant.
>
> I'm also going to renew or re-core the radiator to eliminate the starting
> handle hole, as I have the gear-reduction starter motor, so that should
> help.
>
> Second question (hot topic, this one...): Has anyone fitted the Moss TR6
> fan conversion? My understanding is that the stock fan/fan extension is a
> harmonic balancer and should not be removed. Also, I think I heard talk a 
> few
> years ago that the TR6 fan has to be mounted backwards to make it work. Is
> that  right? I see that part is not in the Moss instructions.
>
> Would love to hear some opinions on these two points.
>
> Tim

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jun 25 14:24:22 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 13:24:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimGYrumUGpQDXUdr3lP8Po9Yp3WQnQyzqbs-AtI@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/24/10, John Macartney <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
> "its the principle of paying such an horrendous amount of money for what is
> to all intents and purposes an indulgent pursuit that benefits no-one..."

Hmmm... has he tried golf?

Our club has Saturday morning drives that end at a greasy restaurant.
When gas prices pushed up towards $4/gal awhile back I said "If this
keeps up I may have to quit eating breakfast".

Geo

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jun 25 14:37:30 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 13:37:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimGYrumUGpQDXUdr3lP8Po9Yp3WQnQyzqbs-AtI@mail.gmail.com>
References: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTimGYrumUGpQDXUdr3lP8Po9Yp3WQnQyzqbs-AtI@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D3717B5694F64209836580A5A4AC6888@joepentiumnew>

George,
I golf.  It takes real dedication to go out and play 18 holes in 111 degree
temperature!  :)

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 1:24 PM
To: John Macartney
Cc: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)

On 6/24/10, John Macartney <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
> "its the principle of paying such an horrendous amount of money for what
is
> to all intents and purposes an indulgent pursuit that benefits no-one..."

Hmmm... has he tried golf?

Our club has Saturday morning drives that end at a greasy restaurant.
When gas prices pushed up towards $4/gal awhile back I said "If this
keeps up I may have to quit eating breakfast".

Geo

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From jdemuth at ties2.net  Fri Jun 25 15:02:35 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 16:02:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Replacing a TR3A fan
Message-ID: <9C1289F6-CBC4-4F7B-88D6-5732644A5053@ties2.net>

I need to replace the fan on my TR3A - it has been wobbling for  
years, I think, and the holes are worn oversize. OK, I quickly found  
a replacement, thanks to this list. But I have a question. All the  
parts diagrams I have looked at show a "balancing weight" mounted  
with the fan. When I took the old fan off, there was no such piece. I  
need to know if it is necessary and how to position it, It is  
mentioned in the TR3 Service Manual, but no explanation as to how to  
position it. The talk in the Haynes manual is downright scary, all  
about factory balancing and such. Advice?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jun 25 15:08:38 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 14:08:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Uprated water pump question
In-Reply-To: <C0EB1C4F40DA47A59D684A8366145FBA@DCS78M81>
References: <90117.78286346.3954f4d5@aol.com>
	<C0EB1C4F40DA47A59D684A8366145FBA@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <013b01cb14aa$959077e0$c0b167a0$@rr.com>

> I just
> removed my fan and extension and put the Ken Glanders harmonic balancer
> on
> and installed an electric puller fan. Also did the alternator upgrade.

FWIW, I'm currently experimenting with a 12" puller fan, no mechanical fan,
and a stock generator.  Haven't got the fan thermostat installed yet, so for
the moment I just have a switch on the dash.

Only a few days experience as yet (been driving it to work all week), but it
seems to be working very well so far.  Even in heavy traffic, the fan only
needs to run for a minute or two at a time, so the generator has time to
catch up when it's not running.  And at 1500 rpm it will keep up with both
the fan and the halogen headlights.

I still plan to convert to an alternator eventually (got a cute little Denso
unit sitting on the shelf), but for now, the stock genny seems to be working
better than I thought it would.

The radiator is an older recore with no crank hole (from my wrecked TR3A).
Don't recall how many rows it has, but it was an off-the-shelf Modine core
that fit perfectly.  I can probably get the details from my radiator shop if
anyone wants to know.

It also has a modern fill neck (which I've fitted with a 10 psi "lever vent"
cap) and reinforcement around the extension (where they always seem to crack
for me).

-- Randall 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Jun 25 15:25:46 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 14:25:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C251EDA.3090407@gmail.com>

On 6/24/10 2:53 PM, John Macartney wrote:
> I guess this might seem a stupid question to ask of people in a part of the
> world where fuel is so cheap - but is it safe to assume it will always be so?
> Earlier this week, I had a long talk with an old friend I've known for more
> than 40 years who has been the besotted owner for at least 30 of those years
> of a 1930 Speed Six Bentley. Okay, that in itself is a car from the collector
> stratosphere - but I was both amazed and shocked to learn he now has the car
> up for sale. By his own admission, it's not that he has tired of it, come to
> be less interested in it - or even that he can't afford to run it.
>    

Come the time I can not afford fuel from my TR3, I'll be looking for an 
engine swap.  Likely a small fuel efficient turbo diesel to pop into the 3.

Teriann

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jun 25 15:29:26 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 14:29:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Replacing a TR3A fan
In-Reply-To: <9C1289F6-CBC4-4F7B-88D6-5732644A5053@ties2.net>
References: <9C1289F6-CBC4-4F7B-88D6-5732644A5053@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <013f01cb14ad$7d84e430$788eac90$@rr.com>

> It is
> mentioned in the TR3 Service Manual, but no explanation as to how to
> position it.

Balancing the fan is covered starting on page 9 of section C, "27. To
assemble fan for balancing"

> I need to know if it is necessary and how to position it,

The balance piece is listed "as required", so in some cases it's not
required.  When I went through this last year, my fan seemed to be OK
without the balance piece (though my balancing jig might have just not been
sensitive enough).

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jun 25 15:37:42 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 14:37:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <D3717B5694F64209836580A5A4AC6888@joepentiumnew>
References: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTimGYrumUGpQDXUdr3lP8Po9Yp3WQnQyzqbs-AtI@mail.gmail.com>
	<D3717B5694F64209836580A5A4AC6888@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <014001cb14ae$a4adf500$ee09df00$@rr.com>

> I golf.  It takes real dedication to go out and play 18 holes in 111
> degree temperature!  :)

That's why they call it a stroke, cause every time you miss, you feel like
you're gonna die!

(With kudos to Robin Williams, one of my favorite comedians.)

-- Randall 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jun 25 15:39:49 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 17:39:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
Message-ID: <32054.63936535.39567c25@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/25/2010 3:47:31 PM Central Daylight Time, 
spitlist at cox.net writes: 
> George,
> I golf.  It takes real dedication to go out and play 18 holes in 111 
> degree
> temperature!  :)
> 

Are you saying you are committed or are you saying you should be committed?

;-)

Dave

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jun 25 15:56:50 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 14:56:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <32054.63936535.39567c25@cs.com>
References: <32054.63936535.39567c25@cs.com>
Message-ID: <F8735917734E411E8C9BD5AAD8835709@joepentiumnew>

Same, Same!

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 2:40 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)

In a message dated 6/25/2010 3:47:31 PM Central Daylight Time, 
spitlist at cox.net writes: 
> George,
> I golf.  It takes real dedication to go out and play 18 holes in 111 
> degree
> temperature!  :)
> 

Are you saying you are committed or are you saying you should be committed?

;-)

Dave

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jun 25 15:57:54 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 14:57:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <32054.63936535.39567c25@cs.com>
References: <32054.63936535.39567c25@cs.com>
Message-ID: <C0A3086717A44B07ADD6F63BB67B138E@joepentiumnew>

They say that insanity is "doing the same thing over and over, expecting a
different result".  That pretty well sums up golf!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 2:40 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)

In a message dated 6/25/2010 3:47:31 PM Central Daylight Time, 
spitlist at cox.net writes: 
> George,
> I golf.  It takes real dedication to go out and play 18 holes in 111 
> degree
> temperature!  :)
> 

Are you saying you are committed or are you saying you should be committed?

;-)

Dave

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From team.net at daveola.com  Fri Jun 25 16:46:56 2010
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 15:46:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] License plates, how much, and body shops in SF
In-Reply-To: <0a4101cb147e$2a002b00$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <0a4101cb147e$2a002b00$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <E1OSHjz-0004uM-OH@davesource.com>

> > And for those who are sure it's illegal,
> 
> ..It was 2009 when I specifically asked and was told that the CA DMV
> would recognize only plates that they had supplied...

My experience with the DMV is that the people who work for it don't
know much about the actual rules when you start dealing with non-normal
registration.  I suggest that you keep pushing whichever clerk you have
until you get the answer you want, and if that fails, come back the next
day or go to another DMV and try again with someone new.

Regardless, can't you just bring in the metal plates, get the reg tags,
and then put the fiberglass plates on your car?  Whether it's legal or
not, no cop is going to either notice, or know the law if you just stand
your ground and be convinced.

Oh, and that other (implied) question about how much I'd give up
my Triumph for?  Enough to buy another one in (much) nicer shape.
I'm attached to the one I have, but heck, if it's in much nicer
shape, I'd trade up.

I hope my car didn't hear that.


Btw, my body shop guy in San Francisco has become totally unreliable.
Any suggestions for a good shop to do some work?  Somebody T-boned
me coming out of a parking spot.  Woops!

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
--------------------------- 1+1=3 for large 1 -----------------------------

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Jun 25 16:54:40 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 22:54:40 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <4C251EDA.3090407@gmail.com>
References: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<4C251EDA.3090407@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <213482.17479.qm@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Some very interesting (and varied) responses both on and off list. I've done a
copy/paste of all received to date on to my friend with the Speed Six. As I
may have a reply from him in due course, I'll post it to the list for y'all to
see. Who knows, all your combined thoughts must just persuade the man
concerned to keep his car.

Jonmac

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Jun 25 17:58:34 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 23:58:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94613F@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <548430782.9851921277510314622.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

For me, the car is not particularly a hobby, but a solution of sorts.  My commute to work is 45 minutes each way.  I run the welfare programs for the State of New Hampshire, and the stress when caseloads are record highs and the staffing resources haven't been elevated to correspond, can leave that commute a time of depressing reflection on edgy management strategies just to cope.  

...Except when I have the top down and am kicking speed to 4 grand rpms in OD on Hwy 93.  This is every day it doesn't rain in New Hampshire during the spring-summer-fall.  

Price?  The commute is a sunk-cost, so subtract that much from the cost of driving.  Mileage?  My wife's Highlander gets less than the 25 mpg I get.  The various Toyotas I drive, especially the latest Tacoma, are also higher mpg than the TR3.  Registration and insurancecosts...way lower for an antique automobile since DMV bureaucrats don't know how really hot these cars are!

It may be, too, that some updates to ignition may help mileage.  Pertrinox, hardened valve seats for low-octane unleaded, the right sparkplugs, tuned carbs, etc., may improve the mileage also.  

A couple of years ago, I got to drive for a few hundred yards directly under a bald eagle on Route 3A on my way to work.  

Just my two cents.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sat Jun 26 10:37:04 2010
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 12:37:04 EDT
Subject: [TR] GT6 Filter Adapter
Message-ID: <5571f.77f795c6.395786b0@aol.com>

I am going to replace my canister filter with an adapter.  It was  bought 
from Rimmer and, even though their printed catalogue shows a straight on  
adapter, what was sent was a 90 degree adapter.  Has anyone installed one  of 
these on their GT6?  Mine is a '72 model.  Any  tips/trials/tribulations?  
What angle should the filter be upon  installation?  
Thanks for all your help
 
Sam Clark   
Green Country Triumphs (Tulsa, Ok)

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Mon Jun 28 07:34:44 2010
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 09:34:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <014001cb14ae$a4adf500$ee09df00$@rr.com>
References: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTimGYrumUGpQDXUdr3lP8Po9Yp3WQnQyzqbs-AtI@mail.gmail.com>
	<D3717B5694F64209836580A5A4AC6888@joepentiumnew>
	<014001cb14ae$a4adf500$ee09df00$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <006401cb16c6$abb2d270$03187750$@net>

And the same score or higher  

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 5:38 PM
Cc: 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)

> I golf.  It takes real dedication to go out and play 18 holes in 111
> degree temperature!  :)

That's why they call it a stroke, cause every time you miss, you feel like
you're gonna die!

(With kudos to Robin Williams, one of my favorite comedians.)

-- Randall 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net

From aribert at c3net.net  Mon Jun 28 08:50:09 2010
From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 10:50:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] GT6 Filter Adapter
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1277575202.15377.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1277575202.15377.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <e2f0dad4a2840d380e7777e742dc5455.squirrel@server6.glis.net>

I have a 90 degree spin on filter adapter on my 2.5L GT6 Convertible.  I
had to do a bit of searching to get the smallest filter can length that
would thread on.  My filter is clocked so that when viewing the LH side of
the engine so that the filter can base points to about 7 o'clock for
filter to frame clearance (to be able to install / remove the filter). My
filter adapter was driven as part of an oil cooler installation.


> I am going to replace my canister filter with an adapter.  It was  bought
> from Rimmer and, even though their printed catalogue shows a straight on
> adapter, what was sent was a 90 degree adapter.  Has anyone installed one
> of
> these on their GT6?  Mine is a '72 model.  Any  tips/trials/tribulations?
> What angle should the filter be upon  installation?
> Thanks for all your help
>
> Sam Clark
> Green Country Triumphs (Tulsa, Ok)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Jun 28 10:33:47 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 12:33:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] What cost to give up your Triumph? (Rhetorical?)
In-Reply-To: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <957509.6121.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201006281233.48025.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

John,

For me it is not the driving as much as the hobby of restoration and 
preservation.

I do enjoy the rides to car hops etc. don't get me wrong, but I really love to 
work on these cars.

My current project, a 72 TR6, will be my last restoration but with 3 Triumph 
cars and 2 motorcycles, I believe I will have enough to do with maintenance 
etc. in the coming retirement years.

It is not only the price of fuel, but everything we need to live and prosper 
that is going up. 

I guess moderation is the key in everything we do.

Bob

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Mon Jun 28 11:14:42 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 12:14:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Top for a TR4
Message-ID: <ECF94011-4F49-41D2-9EEE-D3DA04A3AC79@ties2.net>

Does anyone have a white used top for a TR4 they are willing to part  
with? I have a friend looking for one.

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Jun 28 14:31:25 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 13:31:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Collector Car Prices
Message-ID: <339651.7392.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

      Checking out used car prices (mostly on Craiglist using Jaxed site mash)
it looks like some car prices are climbing to new highs and some are falling
to new recent lows. Maybe people aren't getting what they are asking. It looks
like Morris Minors (especially Woody/Travellers) are commanding more money.
TR3's (best car ever built) are still pretty low. TR6's still look higher than
I would have thought. Some Morgans are selling at more modest prices with
resto projects in the single digits and some drivers in the low teens. Lotus
Elan +2's have been trading hands at somewhat below 10K again. I have been
looking at a restored MGTF for $11,900. Anyone notice any other trends
forming? Any bargains out there?
     I remember looking at XKE OTS's in the
$3 to $5,000 range (in the 1970's) and wonder with our current economic
setback if now is the time. Same goes for big Healeys in the late 70's with
3000's selling for $2 to $3,000.    
     Anyone else watching the market?

 
     Bill in Tehachapi

From carlsereda at aol.com  Mon Jun 28 14:54:13 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 13:54:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A sighting in San Leandro CA
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1277748001.12485.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <3C767D14.D1C8.4DDC.B010.C264783E557F@aol.com>

Hi Listers,
Saw great looking red TR4A driving through my town today - anyone on 
the list own it? Looked like one of those 'beautiful day in a 
convertible' moments.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74 .. slowly moving resto

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Jun 28 15:44:51 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 21:44:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Coolant Level Question
In-Reply-To: <006401cb16c6$abb2d270$03187750$@net>
Message-ID: <623532213.71462.1277761491794.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I seem to remember being told that the coolant level in the radiator must be above the head on the engine.  Reason being, the head will not have coolant if it's lower than the radiator level.  This can cause a warped head.

This would seem to make sense when the engine is off.  But when the water pump is pushing water, or pulling it whatever, would it fill the head even if the radiator is just half full?

Important question because I seem to have a radiator leak that drops a quart every couple of days.  Engine operating temperature is normal, but is the reading accurate for the head?  

Will try emptying the coolant and soldering the radiator next week when I'm on vacation.  Can I drive it this week?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Jun 28 16:14:41 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 18:14:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] Collector Car Prices
Message-ID: <de776.285a306d.395a78d1@aol.com>

Hi Bill;
 
I watch the market avidly, in North America and the U.K. In North America,  
I am convinced that the market is beginning to weaken on older cars, such 
as our  TR3's, etc. I believe this is because we are moving on to another 
generation  that does not remember these cars, with no nostalgic feelings for 
them, and  therefore demand will begin to wane. The same cannot be said for 
TR6's, for  example. To me, TR6's are still a relatively modern car (that's 
because I  remember them in showrooms when I was in my early to mid teens), 
but to the next  generation the TR6, or cars of that era, provide the 
ultimate nostalgia  fix.
 
I have several friends who operate some highly reputable classic car  
dealerships in the UK, and have done so for many years. All of them feel  this 
way; they predict a softening of the market for pre-1970's cars over the  long 
term. This softening hasn't quite hit the UK yet; prices are  still strong. 
However, even if some argue that it hasn't hit North America yet,  there's 
no doubt there's increased demand in later cars due to a generation  coming 
on that has some cash and has an interest in 1970's and newer  classics.
 
The strongest market for sidescreen TR's seems to be in Australia, funnily  
enough. There are only 400 of them there, and nice ones change hands for  
AUS$35-40K, so take 10% off that for Canadian or US dollars.
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jun 28 17:01:47 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 16:01:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Coolant Level Question
In-Reply-To: <623532213.71462.1277761491794.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <006401cb16c6$abb2d270$03187750$@net>
	<623532213.71462.1277761491794.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <006201cb1715$e3c7b820$ab572860$@rr.com>

> This would seem to make sense when the engine is off.  But when the
> water pump is pushing water, or pulling it whatever, would it fill the
> head even if the radiator is just half full?

Yup, as long as the pump is sucking water, it will fill the block and head.
In my experience, the main problem shows up when there isn't enough water
left in the radiator to be cooled (meaning what water there is gets too hot
and boils).

Keep an eye on the temp gauge, and if it jumps around (indicating the pump
is sucking air) or starts reading high, stop immediately and add water.
Otherwise you aren't likely to damage anything.  I've driven for months
(maybe even years) with a leaking radiator, by just adding water when
needed.

I'll add that IMO there is no practical way to repair the radiator in situ.
Corrosion, hard water deposits, etc. make it impossible to get solder (or JB
Weld) to adhere without cleaning thoroughly.  Better IMO to just bite the
bullet, pull the apron off, and have a radiator shop do the repair.

If it is cracked where the extension joins the top tank (which is where mine
always crack and leak), talk to the shop about reinforcing the joint.  I did
just that a few months ago, and they added copper tubing all around the
joint, soldered to both tank and extension, as reinforcement.  Too soon to
say how well it will hold up, but it looks like it should.  And once it's
painted black, it's almost unnoticeable.

BTW, a 7/16" GearWrench makes removing the apron a whole lot easier.  I got
mine off this time in under an hour (partly because I didn't have to pull
the grille).  You might also give some thought to what other things to do
while the apron is off ... I installed an electric fan and replaced the
front crankshaft seal.

-- Randall 

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Jun 28 19:08:08 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 19:08:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] Coolant Level Question
In-Reply-To: <623532213.71462.1277761491794.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <006401cb16c6$abb2d270$03187750$@net>
	<623532213.71462.1277761491794.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CCC115B4418C47BCB80203E0AF67104C@bboffice>

A quart every two days!?!?  That a lot of coolant, is it running out on the
ground or disappearing into the engine.  If you are losing it via the leak
in your radiator that you are planning to fix, this is a good thing as
opposed to a head gasket.

At that level of loss I would recommend that you not drive it until it is
fixed.  However, if you are in a situation that your MUST drive then back
the radiator cap off one notch so there is no pressure in your system.  Of
course, this is not ideal and you should not put any undo stress on the car
while driving this way but I have done it before when I had a pinhole in a
hose and did not want to be stranded.

As to your above or below the head question, I would agree with you in that
if everything is working properly in your system that the flow of coolant
will take care of the head's heat.  You still have to have a full system as
a 'half-full' system will not provide the cooling that a TR3 needs.

Hope this helps,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 3:45 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Coolant Level Question

I seem to remember being told that the coolant level in the radiator must be
above the head on the engine.  Reason being, the head will not have coolant
if it's lower than the radiator level.  This can cause a warped head.

This would seem to make sense when the engine is off.  But when the water
pump is pushing water, or pulling it whatever, would it fill the head even
if the radiator is just half full?

Important question because I seem to have a radiator leak that drops a quart
every couple of days.  Engine operating temperature is normal, but is the
reading accurate for the head?  

Will try emptying the coolant and soldering the radiator next week when I'm
on vacation.  Can I drive it this week?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Jun 28 21:03:33 2010
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 03:03:33 -0000
Subject: [TR] Fw:  TR3 Soft Top
Message-ID: <7F2273E15B3F4EEAA9E619FE405BD0C1@fred8kwiskhcfu>

It could be used as a "tonneau" cover, original buyers were not very excited 
about it.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr at notwires.com>
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>; "Triumphs" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Soft Top


> I've always wondered what that strip is for, too.
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 12:34 PM
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Soft Top
>
>
>>     It was 26 degrees and snowing at my house this morning - IN 
>> CALIFORNIA! I
>> live in the mountains.
>>     I've got a question about the soft top for my TR3. There is a floppy
>> strip on the soft top that is at the front of the top over the windscreen
>> frame. The strip is about 2.5 inches wide and runs the top of the 
>> windscreen.
>> Do the snaps go through this? I left the strip pointing aft over the sun
>> visors. It didn't appear to fit going forward. What is the strip for?
>>
>>     Bill in Tehachapi
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frede.thomas2 at verizon.net

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Jun 29 04:30:51 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 03:30:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Coolant Level Question
In-Reply-To: <CCC115B4418C47BCB80203E0AF67104C@bboffice>
References: <006401cb16c6$abb2d270$03187750$@net>
	<623532213.71462.1277761491794.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<CCC115B4418C47BCB80203E0AF67104C@bboffice>
Message-ID: <261991.65798.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Bill Beecher wrote:

 You still have to have a full system as
a 'half-full'
system will not provide the cooling that a TR3 needs.


Delving through some
of the Quality Control reports of 40+ years ago, there is ample evidence of
the wet liner 4 pot running considerable distances with low coolant levels or
no coolant at all - and without engine damage. This usually occurred when
*summer build" cars did not have anti-freeze in them and were parked up
awaiting shipment in the transit delivery compounds some thirty or forty miles
from the factory. Come the first frosts of winter and while they *should* have
had AF added, many went without, blew their core plugs - and were still
driven. The argument at the time was the delivery company had the obligation
to deliver the car for shipment and not to maintain it! Even so, the later
reliability records of that amazing engine not suffering consequential damage
are substantial and I could cite a true story attesting to this from personal
experience, but it's too long to repeat here.
Sure, fix the leak - and soon
but be aware that old lump can take incredible abuse with zero maintenance as
540,000 Ferguson tractors can attest to.

Jonmac

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Jun 29 04:46:10 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 10:46:10 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Collector Car Prices
In-Reply-To: <de776.285a306d.395a78d1@aol.com>
References: <de776.285a306d.395a78d1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <764290.43459.qm@web28311.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

I think many collector car prices are beginning to soften, though many dealers
in the UK are still asking silly prices. That said, if the cars are being sold
for those prices - or near to them, then either I'm 'out of touch' (highly
likely) or there are lots of people with more money than sense. 
I found this
particular car
http://www.nickwhalesportscarsdirect.co.uk/cars/139/1955-Triumph-TR2--PHP-727
.php only yesterday. Assuming it's provenance details are true - likely, I
think, then this is an early TR2 long door that probably is valued correctly
by UK/Europe standards and one that I'd like to own myself. To convert to US$,
multiply by 1.45. But as a rule of thumb, the scarcer a car becomes, the
higher it's price will go. Morris Minor prices are just crazy but then the
same can be said for Heralds, Austins, UK built Fords and other "entry level"
cars that have the charm of driving and ownership not found in modern
vehicles.

Jonmac

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue Jun 29 11:58:27 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 13:58:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR4 rear axle bearing
In-Reply-To: <65D865EB04E34181A33A4337F155F6E1@Bud>
References: <AANLkTildse3Hcz0M2zylSTdvBXIvcnJDQtUW8Kr-SLMk@mail.gmail.com>
	<65D865EB04E34181A33A4337F155F6E1@Bud>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim7UHi8jm_hDXhYfUT_e_gPkZFjQ6Xztf79cKjy@mail.gmail.com>

Bud, that would work if I could get the hub off of the axle.  Since I
can't and am being forced to use a spare axle and hub I don't have
anything to measure.

Brad


On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 1:55 PM, RACER BUD <budscars at comcast.net> wrote:
> i suggest taking the bearing to a NAPA parts store..they will measure it,
> and match it up for you on the spot..at least the store here in Sonoma, Ca.
> does.
> Racer Bud
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler at 141.com>
> To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 10:41 AM
> Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle bearing
>
>
>> Amici,
>>
>> I need to replace one of the rear wheel bearings on my street TR4.
>> Rather than take the time to order from one of the normal suppliers
>> I'm wondering if anyone would know what the part number for the
>> bearing and race might be from say Timken or National? (or any other
>> brand that I can cross reference locally).
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Brad
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jun 29 17:30:07 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 16:30:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spen King has died
Message-ID: <01f801cb17e3$035b4800$0a11d800$@rr.com>

Not a name you hear often in Triumph circles, but an important figure
anyway.

http://www.autoblog.com/2010/06/28/report-spen-king-father-of-the-range-rove
r-dead-at-age-85/

Here's an interesting interview from a few years ago:
http://www.aronline.co.uk/index.htm?kinginterf.htm

-- Randall 

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Jun 30 05:05:23 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 11:05:23 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Spen King has died
In-Reply-To: <01f801cb17e3$035b4800$0a11d800$@rr.com>
References: <01f801cb17e3$035b4800$0a11d800$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <884166.4024.qm@web28314.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Slowly, they're all going - as all of us will. I remember many things about
Spen King. A brilliant engineer, a most approachable person and something you
didn't often find in senior BL management in its early days. Spen King was a
true English gentleman. But then, it has to be remembered that Spen was the
product of The Rover Company of Solihull. Rover made well-engineered cars that
matched Jaguar on quality but not on performance and there were plenty of
people who wanted those qualities in that balance. To that extent, I remember
many people from Rover who entirely matched Spen in character and skill -
among whom were Spencer and Maurice Wilks, Bernard Jackman, Olaf Poppe - and
others. Wonderful men, brilliant engineers, businessmen - and gentlemen all,
to a T.

Jonmac




________________________________
From: Randall
<tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
stag at digest.net; Assn <9issa at justbrits.com>
Sent: Wed, 30 June, 2010 0:30:07
Subject: [TR] Spen King has died

Not a name you hear often in Triumph
circles, but an important figure
anyway.
http://www.autoblog.com/2010/06/28/report-spen-king-father-of-the-range-rove
r-dead-at-age-85/

Here's an interesting interview from a few years ago:
http://www.aronline.co.uk/index.htm?kinginterf.htm

-- Randall
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 30 06:03:05 2010
From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 05:03:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Spen King has died
In-Reply-To: <884166.4024.qm@web28314.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <122059.5774.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It is a strange thing when a complete stranger passes but I feel a great
sadness. I know of Spen KIng through magazine articles and history of 'our'
cars and I had great respect for him and his work.
Only Monday I read an article in Classic Cars about the Range Rover at 40.
He definitely had a hand in many of the cars we now cherish and love.
A sad loss.


--- On Wed, 30/6/10, John Macartney <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> From: John Macartney <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Spen King has died
> To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>, "Triumph List"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>, stag at digest.net
> Date: Wednesday, 30 June, 2010, 12:05
> Slowly, they're all going - as all of
> us will. I remember many things about
> Spen King. A brilliant engineer, a most approachable person
> and something you
> didn't often find in senior BL management in its early
> days. Spen King was a
> true English gentleman. But then, it has to be remembered
> that Spen was the
> product of The Rover Company of Solihull. Rover made
> well-engineered cars that
> matched Jaguar on quality but not on performance and there
> were plenty of
> people who wanted those qualities in that balance. To that
> extent, I remember
> many people from Rover who entirely matched Spen in
> character and skill -
> among whom were Spencer and Maurice Wilks, Bernard Jackman,
> Olaf Poppe - and
> others. Wonderful men, brilliant engineers, businessmen -
> and gentlemen all,
> to a T.
>
> Jonmac
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Randall
> <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
> stag at digest.net;
> Assn <9issa at justbrits.com>
> Sent: Wed, 30 June, 2010 0:30:07
> Subject: [TR] Spen King has died
>
> Not a name you hear often in Triumph
> circles, but an important figure
> anyway.
>
http://www.autoblog.com/2010/06/28/report-spen-king-father-of-the-range-rove
> r-dead-at-age-85/
>
> Here's an interesting interview from a few years ago:
> http://www.aronline.co.uk/index.htm?kinginterf.htm
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk
>
> _______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com

From mmarr at notwires.com  Wed Jun 30 07:34:54 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 08:34:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Soft Top
References: <7F2273E15B3F4EEAA9E619FE405BD0C1@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <D89E5AB7B19948898FAD9B881F06A079@trigeni.com>

I can see why!  The proper tonneau looks so much better.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "fred thomas" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
To: <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>; "Michael Marr" <mmarr at notwires.com>; "triumphs" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 10:20 AM
Subject: Fw: [TR] TR3 Soft Top


> It could be used as a "tonneau" cover, original buyers were not very 
> excited about it.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr at notwires.com>
> To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>; "Triumphs" 
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 3:14 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Soft Top
>
>
>> I've always wondered what that strip is for, too.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
>> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 12:34 PM
>> Subject: [TR] TR3 Soft Top
>>
>>
>>>     It was 26 degrees and snowing at my house this morning - IN 
>>> CALIFORNIA! I
>>> live in the mountains.
>>>     I've got a question about the soft top for my TR3. There is a floppy
>>> strip on the soft top that is at the front of the top over the 
>>> windscreen
>>> frame. The strip is about 2.5 inches wide and runs the top of the 
>>> windscreen.
>>> Do the snaps go through this? I left the strip pointing aft over the sun
>>> visors. It didn't appear to fit going forward. What is the strip for?
>>>
>>>     Bill in Tehachapi
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frede.thomas2 at verizon.net

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Wed Jun 30 08:25:28 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 09:25:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Soft Top Strip
Message-ID: <DF1E5EFF-2098-4152-B9D8-2FFF06C8CB46@ties2.net>

That strip should have holes in it so it fits over the studs on the  
front of the windshield. They have to be big enough to clear the base  
of the studs so that the snaps can still grasp the stud. The strip  
really helps with the problem or rain coming over the top of the  
windshield in heavy weather.

From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu  Wed Jun 30 10:45:31 2010
From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 12:45:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] On the road again!
Message-ID: <OFC2F755BF.980DEA46-ON85257752.005C0EBE-85257752.005C0EC7@notes.duke.edu>

/9gbfJ2: Permission denied

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Wed Jun 30 18:06:13 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 20:06:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch Master
Message-ID: <512543B7799743B1991A51C3BBBF5AFA@TRGUY>

Is it me or does the TR6 clutch master cylinder look exactly like a TR4 clutch
master.  The part numbers are different from the big three, but when I put
them next to each other (I have a 6 and 4) they look identical.  My TR4 is
early and has a .75 bore master and my 6 master is a .7.  That and the fact
that the push rod bracket is a little wider.  Seems like a could use my spare
TR6 master and  the push rod from the 4 master.

Secondly, I will be changing out the brake and clutch hydraulics and will
switch to DOT5 silicon.  Any recommendations on the best substance to use to
clean out the lines?

Tearing down a new TR4 is fun! Thanks in advance.
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jun 30 18:38:23 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 17:38:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Clutch Master
In-Reply-To: <512543B7799743B1991A51C3BBBF5AFA@TRGUY>
References: <512543B7799743B1991A51C3BBBF5AFA@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <5F5D532808D749EB99E018E018B9AF2F@joepentiumnew>

Things I have read say purge with "Mineral Spirits".  But when I converted
to Dot 5, I just drained all the Dot 3 stuff and blew the lines out with an
air compressor then added DOT 5 and bled from the furthest point in the
system (Right Rear) until all I got is clear blue fluid and repeated on the
LR, RF and LF in that order.

Except for having to rebuild the left front caliper (because of an immediate
leak), I have had no problems after 9 years.

Cheers,
Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 5:06 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Clutch Master

Is it me or does the TR6 clutch master cylinder look exactly like a TR4
clutch
master.  The part numbers are different from the big three, but when I put
them next to each other (I have a 6 and 4) they look identical.  My TR4 is
early and has a .75 bore master and my 6 master is a .7.  That and the fact
that the push rod bracket is a little wider.  Seems like a could use my
spare
TR6 master and  the push rod from the 4 master.

Secondly, I will be changing out the brake and clutch hydraulics and will
switch to DOT5 silicon.  Any recommendations on the best substance to use to
clean out the lines?

Tearing down a new TR4 is fun! Thanks in advance.
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Wed Jun 30 19:14:41 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 21:14:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch Master
In-Reply-To: <512543B7799743B1991A51C3BBBF5AFA@TRGUY>
References: <512543B7799743B1991A51C3BBBF5AFA@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <AANLkTil2SsNtNo9EAXnkjzktpKFxzMSy8tisD8eGovuK@mail.gmail.com>

Jim,

You might find that the threads are different for the pipe fitting.  I
ran across that issue trying to install a TR6 clutch M/C in my TR4
which the previous owner had converted to using a TR6 brake booster
setup.  Bottom line is I fought it for several days before I gave up
and installed a TR4 clutch mc inmy TR4.

I'm not sure I ever did figure out just what all Triumph did
differently from the 4/4A to the 6 setup.

Brad


On Wed, Jun 30, 2010 at 8:06 PM, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> Is it me or does the TR6 clutch master cylinder look exactly like a TR4
clutch
> master.  The part numbers are different from the big three, but when I put
> them next to each other (I have a 6 and 4) they look identical.  My TR4 is
> early and has a .75 bore master and my 6 master is a .7.  That and the fact
> that the push rod bracket is a little wider.  Seems like a could use my
spare
> TR6 master and  the push rod from the 4 master.
>
> Secondly, I will be changing out the brake and clutch hydraulics and will
> switch to DOT5 silicon.  Any recommendations on the best substance to use
to
> clean out the lines?
>
> Tearing down a new TR4 is fun! Thanks in advance.
> Jim Henningsen
> Maitland, FL
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Wed Jun 30 20:26:33 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 22:26:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch Master
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTil2SsNtNo9EAXnkjzktpKFxzMSy8tisD8eGovuK@mail.gmail.com>
References: <512543B7799743B1991A51C3BBBF5AFA@TRGUY>
	<AANLkTil2SsNtNo9EAXnkjzktpKFxzMSy8tisD8eGovuK@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <81046FD3B4EC4D878F754113FB1827AF@TRGUY>

Brad:
good points and I am not sure but that sounds very likely.  I do have a TR4 
clutch master on order from TRF. I was just curious if the parts were a 
cross-reference.
Thanks,
jim
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler at 141.com>
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>; "Triumphs" 
<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch Master


Jim,

You might find that the threads are different for the pipe fitting.  I
ran across that issue trying to install a TR6 clutch M/C in my TR4
which the previous owner had converted to using a TR6 brake booster
setup.  Bottom line is I fought it for several days before I gave up
and installed a TR4 clutch mc inmy TR4.

I'm not sure I ever did figure out just what all Triumph did
differently from the 4/4A to the 6 setup.

Brad


On Wed, Jun 30, 2010 at 8:06 PM, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> Is it me or does the TR6 clutch master cylinder look exactly like a TR4 
> clutch
> master. The part numbers are different from the big three, but when I put
> them next to each other (I have a 6 and 4) they look identical. My TR4 is
> early and has a .75 bore master and my 6 master is a .7. That and the fact
> that the push rod bracket is a little wider. Seems like a could use my 
> spare
> TR6 master and the push rod from the 4 master.
>
> Secondly, I will be changing out the brake and clutch hydraulics and will
> switch to DOT5 silicon. Any recommendations on the best substance to use 
> to
> clean out the lines?
>
> Tearing down a new TR4 is fun! Thanks in advance.
> Jim Henningsen
> Maitland, FL
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Wed Jun 30 20:27:39 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 22:27:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch Master
In-Reply-To: <5F5D532808D749EB99E018E018B9AF2F@joepentiumnew>
References: <512543B7799743B1991A51C3BBBF5AFA@TRGUY>
	<5F5D532808D749EB99E018E018B9AF2F@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <E17CFEAED1F44766952D9B13CB3B2512@TRGUY>

Mineral spirits sound like a good plan.  There was a lot of solid matter in 
the master from sitting so long and  I want to make sure it gets cleaned out 
before pumping the silicon through.
Thanks, jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>; "'list Triumph'" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 8:38 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Clutch Master


> Things I have read say purge with "Mineral Spirits".  But when I converted
> to Dot 5, I just drained all the Dot 3 stuff and blew the lines out with 
> an
> air compressor then added DOT 5 and bled from the furthest point in the
> system (Right Rear) until all I got is clear blue fluid and repeated on 
> the
> LR, RF and LF in that order.
>
> Except for having to rebuild the left front caliper (because of an 
> immediate
> leak), I have had no problems after 9 years.
>
> Cheers,
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
> Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 5:06 PM
> To: list Triumph
> Subject: [TR] Clutch Master
>
> Is it me or does the TR6 clutch master cylinder look exactly like a TR4
> clutch
> master.  The part numbers are different from the big three, but when I put
> them next to each other (I have a 6 and 4) they look identical.  My TR4 is
> early and has a .75 bore master and my 6 master is a .7.  That and the 
> fact
> that the push rod bracket is a little wider.  Seems like a could use my
> spare
> TR6 master and  the push rod from the 4 master.
>
> Secondly, I will be changing out the brake and clutch hydraulics and will
> switch to DOT5 silicon.  Any recommendations on the best substance to use 
> to
> clean out the lines?
>
> Tearing down a new TR4 is fun! Thanks in advance.
> Jim Henningsen
> Maitland, FL
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Wed Jun 30 20:55:33 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 22:55:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Water Pump
Message-ID: <2D42A15E42054791BC7DB5B569789DBA@TRGUY>

Question # 62 - Hopefully, I am not becoming irritating to you all.  What
supplier do you all recommend for a good water pump?  I have an aftermarket
one on the car that needs to be changed out. There are some folks on ebay that
sell refurbished orig pumps with grease nipple that look nice, but they are
asking $169.95.
Thanks,
jim henningsen
62 TR4 CT5212LO

From spitfire at freebacon.net  Wed Jun 30 21:20:38 2010
From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 21:20:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] Spitfire overheating solved
Message-ID: <247BC7A75D014C5DB0BAF867959A210A@Spike>

Quick note to the list, maybe this will help someone else.  I've been having
an overheating problem in my '69 Spitfire, radiator was tanked and replaced,
thermostat tested, water pump inspected, whole system flushed and back flushed
by myself and a local repair shop, etc, etc, no problems found, but it would
still overheat.  I went through all of the rubber hoses, they were all good,
until I checked the last one.  On the Spitfire 1300, there is a metal pipe
that goes from the water pump housing to the rear of the engine where it
splits off to the intake manifold and the interior heater core.  The hose that
went to the intake manifold was bone dry after taking it off.  A little
digging into the hose came up with quite a bit of gunk that looks like clay.
Going through that metal pipe, there was the same thing.  So, even though
water was circulating through the radiator and water pump, it wasn't going
anywhere else.  After cleaning everything out and replacing the hoses, the
overheating problem is gone.

Moral of the story is to check the easy stuff first.  Pulling a few hoses
would have been much easier than the radiator/thermostat/water pump dance that
I went through.

Mike Welch
Colorado Springs, CO
'69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2
'69 Honda SL350

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jun 30 21:44:12 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 20:44:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Water Pump
In-Reply-To: <2D42A15E42054791BC7DB5B569789DBA@TRGUY>
References: <2D42A15E42054791BC7DB5B569789DBA@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <032401cb18cf$abc39690$0301a8c0@randall>

> There are some 
> folks on ebay that
> sell refurbished orig pumps with grease nipple that look 
> nice, but they are
> asking $169.95.

Either TRF or Moss will sell you a pump for a lot less than that!  If they
lack the nipple (and you want it for originality's sake), then it's not hard
to drill & tap the housing to add it.  TRF has "used" originals listed for
$80.

The last pump I bought was a reproduction with fixed pulley and no grease
zerk from Moss.  It's lasted well over 100,000 miles, and was still working
fine when the car got wrecked a few years back.

Randall