From rcrabbe at sympatico.ca  Thu Jul  1 05:41:39 2010
From: rcrabbe at sympatico.ca (Richard Crabbe)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 07:41:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Locking Steering column
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP18EE8A1017B3D7A7AFF00AD6CD0@phx.gbl>

I  am in the process of reassembly of the dash, that I replaced.

I had taken apart the steering column to check for wear.

I am having difficulty returning the steering column so it will lock when
the key is out (76 TR6)

I have tried adjusting the thing several ways but still cannot get it.

It locked before disassembly.

Does anyone have any ideas how to set this up  without getting really
frustrated again?

 

Crabby 1976 TR 6

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Jul  1 05:47:48 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 07:47:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Water Pump
In-Reply-To: <032401cb18cf$abc39690$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <2D42A15E42054791BC7DB5B569789DBA@TRGUY>
	<032401cb18cf$abc39690$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <E642C02BCAD34AFDAF71280A577AE7E1@CarlPC>

I received the following email recently.  I have no knowledge of the part 
and in fact very little contact with BPNW since I am in the opposite corner 
of the world (US) to them.  May be an alternative to look into.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <customerservice at bpnorthwest.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 3:16 AM
Subject: Three New Products from British Parts Northwest

> We have three great new products to let everyone know about from British
> Parts Northwest.
>
> The first is just in time for summer driving.  It is our new 5-Vain
> Impeller Water Pump for the Triumph TR3-TR4A.  This computer designed thin
> vaned pump is designed to move the maximum amount of coolant through your
> engine with the least amount of horsepower.  Other older six vane designs
> take up too much space and can't move the amount of water like this
> design.  Here is the link:
> http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/bdd/ee/10125/Water%20Pump%205-Vane%20TR3-TR4A
>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Water Pump


>> There are some
>> folks on ebay that
>> sell refurbished orig pumps with grease nipple that look
>> nice, but they are
>> asking $169.95.
>
> Either TRF or Moss will sell you a pump for a lot less than that!  If they
> lack the nipple (and you want it for originality's sake), then it's not 
> hard
> to drill & tap the housing to add it.  TRF has "used" originals listed for
> $80.
>
> The last pump I bought was a reproduction with fixed pulley and no grease
> zerk from Moss.  It's lasted well over 100,000 miles, and was still 
> working
> fine when the car got wrecked a few years back.
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul  1 05:51:32 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 07:51:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] Clutch Master
Message-ID: <7f968.2bf6b0d5.395ddb44@cs.com>

In a message dated 6/30/2010 8:23:25 PM Central Daylight Time, 
brad.kahler at 141.com writes: 
> You might find that the threads are different for the pipe fitting.  I
> ran across that issue trying to install a TR6 clutch M/C in my TR4
> which the previous owner had converted to using a TR6 brake booster
> setup.  Bottom line is I fought it for several days before I gave up
> and installed a TR4 clutch mc inmy TR4.
> 
> I'm not sure I ever did figure out just what all Triumph did
> differently from the 4/4A to the 6 setup.
> 

I believe that at some point they switched to metric threads on the 
hydraulics.  But I thought it was during the TR6 production so that early and late 
TR6 parts could not be mixed.

Maybe this will stimulate someone with the real facts to come forward.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul  1 05:54:23 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 07:54:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter rebuild
Message-ID: <7fb2f.2bc43b94.395ddbef@cs.com>

I am looking for recommendations of rebuilders who can rebuild my long nose 
TR3 starter.  I took it to my local house and they said they can't get 
parts.  Are there any rebuilders out there who have an inventory of parts for 
this starter?

Thanks

Dave

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Jul  1 06:02:11 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 08:02:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch Master
In-Reply-To: <E17CFEAED1F44766952D9B13CB3B2512@TRGUY>
References: <512543B7799743B1991A51C3BBBF5AFA@TRGUY>
	<5F5D532808D749EB99E018E018B9AF2F@joepentiumnew>
	<E17CFEAED1F44766952D9B13CB3B2512@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <201007010802.13057.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday, June 30, 2010 10:27:39 pm James Henningsen wrote:
> Mineral spirits sound like a good plan.  There was a lot of solid matter in
> the master from sitting so long and  I want to make sure it gets cleaned
> out before pumping the silicon through.
> Thanks, jim
> 
>
Jim,

I use alcohol and brake cleaner + compressed air not mineral spirits.

I don't want any residue from the spirits to get to the seals etc.

You can get cans of break parts cleaner from auto parts stores which remove 
gunk etc. They have the small red hose on the nozzle that forces a high 
pressure stream into the hose like on a WD-40 can.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Bob

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Jul  1 09:52:42 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 11:52:42 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter rebuild
Message-ID: <8cbf2.746c7cfa.395e13ca@aol.com>

Hi Dave; I went through the same thing with my bomb starter. This isn't  
very helpful, but I eventually gave up and bought a gear-reduction. The  
difference in performance is huge, and the voltage use much more favourable.  
It's so reliable that I feel I can now do away with the hole in the rad, which  
will help with cooling.
 
Obviously, if originality is important then this isn't an option but  
reliability and durability is key for me.
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul  1 10:36:52 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 12:36:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter rebuild
Message-ID: <19764.74d5cb71.395e1e24@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/1/2010 10:52:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com writes: 
> Hi Dave; I went through the same thing with my bomb starter. This isn't 
> very helpful, but I eventually gave up and bought a gear-reduction. The 
> difference in performance is huge, and the voltage use much more favourable. 
> It's so reliable that I feel I can now do away with the hole in the rad, 
> which will help with cooling.
>   
>  Obviously, if originality is important then this isn't an option but 
> reliability and durability is key for me.
>  
> 

I'm no originality nazi but in this case I am trying to keep the car 
original.  I wouldn't hesitate a minute dropping a gear reduction starter in 
either the TR6 or the TR8 but those cars are not original nor is that a 
consideration.  But the attraction of the TR3 is that it is so anachronistic and I 
want to keep it that way.

Positive ground and all.

Thanks

Dave

From bbick59 at gmail.com  Thu Jul  1 11:23:07 2010
From: bbick59 at gmail.com (bill bickerton)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 13:23:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 caliper piston removal
Message-ID: <AANLkTimHdM6zMSKawgXc5gJuUomqDrZmq5DVOpybssNG@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all, Can someone advise me of the best way (and easiest) to remove the
pistons from my 64 TR4 brake calipers? As long as were on the subject...I am
having the hardest time trying to break free the hydraulic hose from my
right side caliper, I've sprayed it every day for a week with PB to no
avail, any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bill

From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Thu Jul  1 12:00:56 2010
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 14:00:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 caliper piston removal
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimHdM6zMSKawgXc5gJuUomqDrZmq5DVOpybssNG@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimHdM6zMSKawgXc5gJuUomqDrZmq5DVOpybssNG@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00b101cb1947$5b384d60$11a8e820$@verizon.net>

Some people swear by Weasel P**s; a mix of 50% acetone and 50% ATF applied
with a spray bottle.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bill bickerton
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 1:23 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 caliper piston removal

Hi all, Can someone advise me of the best way (and easiest) to remove the
pistons from my 64 TR4 brake calipers? As long as were on the subject...I am
having the hardest time trying to break free the hydraulic hose from my
right side caliper, I've sprayed it every day for a week with PB to no
avail, any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bill

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lbc.resto at verizon.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jul  1 12:56:13 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 11:56:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter rebuild
In-Reply-To: <7fb2f.2bc43b94.395ddbef@cs.com>
References: <7fb2f.2bc43b94.395ddbef@cs.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimpoGvzz3FDSog_phKDA0_KLWkKpgjFFaONMF_t@mail.gmail.com>

Did they say what parts they needed to replace or just look at it and
say no way?

I guess I have never rebuilt mine but I have had it apart a few times
and have always been able to resolve a specific problem with a
combination of available parts and creativity.

I would think the most common failure points... field windings,
commutator, brushes, pinion drive & bushing... are serviceable.

Geo

On 7/1/10, Dave1massey at cs.com <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> I am looking for recommendations of rebuilders who can rebuild my long nose
> TR3 starter.  I took it to my local house and they said they can't get
> parts.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jul  1 13:06:05 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 12:06:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 caliper piston removal
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimHdM6zMSKawgXc5gJuUomqDrZmq5DVOpybssNG@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimHdM6zMSKawgXc5gJuUomqDrZmq5DVOpybssNG@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTink9sXYQ23SZvd8w_8xL6Ye7QFBSeh3vSwTd7Ek@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/1/10, bill bickerton <bbick59 at gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all, Can someone advise me of the best way (and easiest) to remove the
> pistons from my 64 TR4 brake calipers?

I have always just used the hydraulic system to (nearly) remove them &
do the last bit on the bench.  With pads & rotor in the way likely one
side will want to move out first, you can stop it before it pops out
with a c-clamp or such, then the other side should begin to move.  If
one pops out pretty easy to put it back in long enough to get the
other one moving.

Obviously you have to clamp off the first line before you try this on
the other side of the car.

If they are well & truly stuck (e.g. rusted) then you will need to
resort to some of the more severe & exciting methods.

When PBlaster doesn't free things I usually go with heat -- but have
never had to do that on a brake line.

Geo

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul  1 14:17:23 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 16:17:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter rebuild
Message-ID: <b21f6.38b4f2b8.395e51d3@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/1/2010 1:56:14 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes: 
> Did they say what parts they needed to replace or just look at it and
> say no way?
> 
> I guess I have never rebuilt mine but I have had it apart a few times
> and have always been able to resolve a specific problem with a
> combination of available parts and creativity.
> 
> I would think the most common failure points... field windings,
> commutator, brushes, pinion drive &bushing... are serviceable.
> 

No, they offered to clean the commutator and do some other things but there 
would be no warranty.  All for about $150.  I know I need the drive thingy 
and I don't think I can fake that.  Their comment was maybe there was a shop 
who bought up all the bits still available and I might find someone who can 
do it right.

Dave

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Thu Jul  1 14:25:04 2010
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 20:25:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] NATC 2010 room reservations
Message-ID: <BAY131-W17F2CCCC426FD8DDB936E68BCD0@phx.gbl>

There are only 14 room reservations left at the host hotel...
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Jul  1 15:10:59 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 21:10:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] Locking Steering column
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP18EE8A1017B3D7A7AFF00AD6CD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP18EE8A1017B3D7A7AFF00AD6CD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F51F7BAB78@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>

There is only a short section of the inner column that has the opportunity to
engage with the pin in the column lock.  Generally if the inner column is
inserted the correct amount the lock will engage at some point as you rotate
the steering wheel. If the inner column is too far forward or back the pin may
not be going into the slot in the column. When I assemble the steering column
I do it with the steering lock active so that I can be sure I have it all
aligned before I start bolting it up.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Crabbe
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 7:42 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Locking Steering column

I  am in the process of reassembly of the dash, that I replaced.

I had taken apart the steering column to check for wear.

I am having difficulty returning the steering column so it will lock when the
key is out (76 TR6)

I have tried adjusting the thing several ways but still cannot get it.

It locked before disassembly.

Does anyone have any ideas how to set this up  without getting really
frustrated again?



Crabby 1976 TR 6

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  1 15:27:46 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 14:27:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-6 oil pressure
Message-ID: <258780.82134.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

John,
I have around 1500 miles on a tr-6 engine re-build and I find my oil pressure to be the same as yours at all rpm ranges.  I feel all is well and I'm loving the new pressure that comes with a fresh engine.  I'm still a little paranoid..............I'm not that confident in my engine assembly skills so I'm just waiting for something to go wrong.LOL

gary n.

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Thu Jul  1 16:01:29 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 18:01:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch Master
In-Reply-To: <201007010802.13057.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <512543B7799743B1991A51C3BBBF5AFA@TRGUY>
	<5F5D532808D749EB99E018E018B9AF2F@joepentiumnew>
	<E17CFEAED1F44766952D9B13CB3B2512@TRGUY>
	<201007010802.13057.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <A9A1655CCBE44A91B9254E6DA0206C9E@TRGUY>

Bob:
Thanks. i talked to a painter buddy of mine and he also recommended 
denatured alcohol as the mineral spirits can leave a residue.
Jim henningsen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>; "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch Master


> On Wednesday, June 30, 2010 10:27:39 pm James Henningsen wrote:
>> Mineral spirits sound like a good plan.  There was a lot of solid matter 
>> in
>> the master from sitting so long and  I want to make sure it gets cleaned
>> out before pumping the silicon through.
>> Thanks, jim
>>
>>
> Jim,
>
> I use alcohol and brake cleaner + compressed air not mineral spirits.
>
> I don't want any residue from the spirits to get to the seals etc.
>
> You can get cans of break parts cleaner from auto parts stores which 
> remove
> gunk etc. They have the small red hose on the nozzle that forces a high
> pressure stream into the hose like on a WD-40 can.
>
> Just my 2 cents worth.
>
> Bob

From rcrabbe at sympatico.ca  Thu Jul  1 17:46:02 2010
From: rcrabbe at sympatico.ca (Richard Crabbe)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 19:46:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Locking Steering Column
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP63FA03B52EE85314FA9BF5D6CD0@phx.gbl>

Basically this is what I have done - locked the ignition put everything in
place and tighten it down.

The problem starts there.

With the column bolts tight - I can unlock the ignition turn the wheel and
when I take the key out it will not lock.

I have to loosen the bolts for it to lock.

Then I start over. I have tried several different things but to no avail.

I do not remember having any problems when I rebuilt the car 7 years ago nor
before I removed the dash and column..

 

Crabby

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Jul  1 18:09:17 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 20:09:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Locking Steering Column
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP63FA03B52EE85314FA9BF5D6CD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP63FA03B52EE85314FA9BF5D6CD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <201007012009.18688.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday, July 01, 2010 07:46:02 pm Richard Crabbe wrote:
> Basically this is what I have done - locked the ignition put everything in
> place and tighten it down.
> 
> The problem starts there.
> 
> With the column bolts tight - I can unlock the ignition turn the wheel and
> when I take the key out it will not lock.
> 
> I have to loosen the bolts for it to lock.
> 
> Then I start over. I have tried several different things but to no avail.
> 
> I do not remember having any problems when I rebuilt the car 7 years ago
> nor before I removed the dash and column..
> 
> 
> 
> Crabby
> 
Richard,

I just finished assembling my 72 ignition switch and all I had to do is feel 
for the slot in the bottom of the steering column and insure the steering 
locked before I tightened the top cap.

Before I installed the bottom, I gave the locking tab a few drops of 3 & 1 oil 
and worked it until the tab was really oiled. Your locking tab might be 
sticking in the assembly.

Not sure if a 76 is the same part but it just took some patience to insure the 
locking tab is centered on the slot in the shaft.

Bob

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  1 18:52:10 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 17:52:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Clutch slave from a TR6 to a TR4/A
Message-ID: <900825.9398.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
I just received my two digests at 20:00 & have read through the replies.
 
Jim, I have a suggestion that might solve your problem:
Go to a good hydraulic place that will make up lines for you & sell you
different fittings. Then simply purchase a fitting that will convert to metric
to Standard (3/8" x 24T) on the threads. It would be a LOT CHEAPER than
purchasing a new part. The part may just be the cost of what shipping the part
would be, not counting the cost of the part.


-Cosmo Kramer

From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca  Thu Jul  1 19:27:14 2010
From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (=?iso-8859-1?Q?TR6Qu=E9bec?=)
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 21:27:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
Message-ID: <334F4D472EF94DC0927F3D53FAAAD359@robertlaptop>

Hi to all on the list.

 

This is my first posting. I'm from Montreal, Quebec and my main speaking language is French  ......so please be patient with my poor English......

 

I'm a 6-Pack member and one year owner of a nice 1974 Mimosa Triumph TR6 / with O-D.

 

I'm looking for an easier way to open my trunk and found no struts that would fit except with modifications.

 

I found curious that I can't find a direct fit gas strut, nor a conversion system as one is offered for the MGB!!!!!(sorry).

 

Nothing on the Net and only one guy installation on the 6-Pack forum that need some modifications and without a strut number.... 

 

Anybody on the list can help me with that?



Robert

TR6Quebec

1974 TR6 / Mimosa / OD 

From tr6parts at charter.net  Thu Jul  1 20:03:57 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 22:03:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
References: <334F4D472EF94DC0927F3D53FAAAD359@robertlaptop>
Message-ID: <7EC297B3CE9441B89471F603056B86A6@Alan>

The gas strut your looking for would be the same one used for the 80-81 TR7.

But you may need two struts and the 6 only has a mounting point for one.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TR6Quibec" <TR6Quebec at videotron.ca>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:27 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!


> Hi to all on the list.
>
>
>
> This is my first posting. I'm from Montreal, Quebec and my main speaking 
> language is French  ......so please be patient with my poor English......
>
>
>
> I'm a 6-Pack member and one year owner of a nice 1974 Mimosa Triumph TR6 / 
> with O-D.
>
>
>
> I'm looking for an easier way to open my trunk and found no struts that 
> would fit except with modifications.
>
>
>
> I found curious that I can't find a direct fit gas strut, nor a conversion 
> system as one is offered for the MGB!!!!!(sorry).
>
>
>
> Nothing on the Net and only one guy installation on the 6-Pack forum that 
> need some modifications and without a strut number....
>
>
>
> Anybody on the list can help me with that?
>
>
>
> Robert
>
> TR6Quebec
>
> 1974 TR6 / Mimosa / OD
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul  1 21:36:12 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu,  1 Jul 2010 21:36:12 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] List membership notes
Message-ID: <20100702033612.5DE062E061@bradakis.com>

For some reason it seems I've gotten more than the usual
number of admin messages regarding posts by a non-member
to a list.  It has been happening on a number of the many
lists I manage, not just this one.

Basically what happens is this:

People subscribe AddressA to the list.  They get the
messages at that address.

They send messages to the list from AddressB.  AddressA
is a member, AddressB is not.  The post from AddressB
is rejected as non-member spam.

Send messages from the address that is subscribed and they
won't get rejected as non-member spam.  If you aren't set
up for digest mode, the address where you get the mail is
listed in the trailer of each and every posting, right there
below the donate link.  Donate early, donate often!

If you normally send messages from AddressB, then subscribe
AddressB to the list.  If you want messages to go to AddressA
and not AddressB, then subscribe AddressB and set your mailman
options to not deliver to AddressB.

Hopefully this will assist some folks with managing Team.Net
email.

mjb.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul  2 06:17:28 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 08:17:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
Message-ID: <d0ac4.128476bc.395f32d8@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/1/2010 9:12:45 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr6parts at charter.net writes: 
> The gas strut your looking for would be the same one used for the 80-81 
> TR7.
> 
> But you may need two struts and the 6 only has a mounting point for one.
> 
> Al
> 
Al, does one mount to the same mounts as the telescopic support already 
there?  If so one could mount two on there with some long bolts and spacers.  
That is a common trick (mounting a third doubled up on one side) on the 
TR7-8's since two are insufficient if you have a luggage rack.

Dave

From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca  Fri Jul  2 08:38:52 2010
From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (=?iso-8859-1?Q?TR6Qu=E9bec?=)
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2010 10:38:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
In-Reply-To: <mailman.26364.1278073009.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.26364.1278073009.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F0E8E62387824B5C9C3ECC86F44DAA16@robertlaptop>

Thank you Al, your right, only one attachement point on the 6, left 
side.....
Dave, the space .does not allow for a twin set up.
I need a strut that can hold 45-55 pounds (rack included).

So, this is a rare conversion........?

Thanks.
 Robert
TR6Quebec
1974 TR6 / Mimosa / OD
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 21:27:14 -0400
> From: TR6Qu?bec <TR6Quebec at videotron.ca>
> Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <334F4D472EF94DC0927F3D53FAAAD359 at robertlaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi to all on the list.
>
> This is my first posting. I'm from Montreal, Quebec and my main speaking 
> language is French  ......so please be patient with my poor English......
>
> I'm a 6-Pack member and one year owner of a nice 1974 Mimosa Triumph TR6 / 
> with O-D.
>
> I'm looking for an easier way to open my trunk and found no struts that 
> would fit except with modifications.
>
> I found curious that I can't find a direct fit gas strut, nor a conversion 
> system as one is offered for the MGB!!!!!(sorry).
>
> Nothing on the Net and only one guy installation on the 6-Pack forum that 
> need some modifications and without a strut number....
>
> Anybody on the list can help me with that?
>
> Robert
>
> TR6Quebec
>
> 1974 TR6 / Mimosa / OD
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 22:03:57 -0400
> From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
> To: TR6Qu?bec <TR6Quebec at videotron.ca>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <7EC297B3CE9441B89471F603056B86A6 at Alan>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> The gas strut your looking for would be the same one used for the 80-81 
> TR7.
>
> But you may need two struts and the 6 only has a mounting point for one.
>
> Al
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 08:17:28 EDT
> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <d0ac4.128476bc.395f32d8 at cs.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> In a message dated 7/1/2010 9:12:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
> tr6parts at charter.net writes:
>> The gas strut your looking for would be the same one used for the 80-81
>> TR7.
>>
>> But you may need two struts and the 6 only has a mounting point for one.
>>
>> Al
>>
> Al, does one mount to the same mounts as the telescopic support already
> there?  If so one could mount two on there with some long bolts and 
> spacers.
> That is a common trick (mounting a third doubled up on one side) on the
> TR7-8's since two are insufficient if you have a luggage rack.
>
> Dave

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul  2 09:12:13 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 08:12:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] GT6 Body removal.
Message-ID: <0825B1C4DB2A46C68E196A8F3B9FF413@joepentiumnew>

I have been contacted by the owner of a GT6+ near Valley Forge, PA.  He is
wanting to buy one of my shock mount brackets but is not sure he is up to
the task of lifting the rear of the body from the frame to install the
bracket.

So, I would like to know if there is anyone in that area who is willing to
lend some expertise to him.

Thanks,
Joe Curry

From tr6parts at charter.net  Fri Jul  2 10:01:34 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 12:01:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
References: <d0ac4.128476bc.395f32d8@cs.com>
Message-ID: <6BDC387796E84D749971654A8CD586F9@Alan>

The cars used the same mechanical slide.
Then in 80 they put the the gas strut on the TR7.
Maybe they can be doubled up.

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!


> In a message dated 7/1/2010 9:12:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
> tr6parts at charter.net writes:
>> The gas strut your looking for would be the same one used for the 80-81
>> TR7.
>>
>> But you may need two struts and the 6 only has a mounting point for one.
>>
>> Al
>>
> Al, does one mount to the same mounts as the telescopic support already
> there?  If so one could mount two on there with some long bolts and 
> spacers.
> That is a common trick (mounting a third doubled up on one side) on the
> TR7-8's since two are insufficient if you have a luggage rack.
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul  2 10:05:16 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 09:05:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter rebuild
In-Reply-To: <b21f6.38b4f2b8.395e51d3@cs.com>
References: <b21f6.38b4f2b8.395e51d3@cs.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimXbC3m_gMeARafN71X9gtWYX7qtH0B3iwC26PU@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/1/10, Dave1massey at cs.com <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> ...I know I need the drive thingy and I don't think I can fake that...

The drive thingy (if you mean what Moss call 'sleeve assembly p/n
549-580) is available (there may even be an improved design out
there).

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=549-580%20&WebCatalogID=0

In any case, you can fake that, leastways I did.  Back when these were
NLA I repaired mine by jamming the thing with strips of tire tube
rubber, then pressing it together.  Got a replacement when someone
(Steve Hedke?) finally developed one but have never bothered to pull
the starter and install it as the inner tube fix still works after 20+
years.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul  2 10:36:12 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 09:36:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
In-Reply-To: <F0E8E62387824B5C9C3ECC86F44DAA16@robertlaptop>
References: <mailman.26364.1278073009.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<F0E8E62387824B5C9C3ECC86F44DAA16@robertlaptop>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimW6HU8OYo8obXQluIvkRTbxLqJ9VroQQrgC9O0@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/2/10, TR6Quibec <TR6Quebec at videotron.ca> wrote:

> I need a strut that can hold 45-55 pounds (rack included).

That seems to me to be quite a bit of weight... I would be concerned
about what that could due to the sheet metal around the boot lid
hinges.

This is a problem on TR4s and as I recall there is even a web page
showing a bracket that can be made to strengthen that area (Justin
W?).

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul  2 10:38:35 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 09:38:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimW6HU8OYo8obXQluIvkRTbxLqJ9VroQQrgC9O0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.26364.1278073009.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<F0E8E62387824B5C9C3ECC86F44DAA16@robertlaptop>
	<AANLkTimW6HU8OYo8obXQluIvkRTbxLqJ9VroQQrgC9O0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim7MnUymCk70Kwzqxk4PqYLcT-DCfBYC_pfOfl_@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/2/10, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
> ...I would be concerned about what that could due to the
> sheet metal around the boot lid hinges.
>
> This is a problem on TR4s...

Oops, just hit me -- TR4 racks mount to the hinges, thus the stress.
Perhaps a rack that simply bolts to the boot lid can handle such
weight.

Geo

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Fri Jul  2 10:44:13 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 09:44:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Color of Side Curtain Plates
Message-ID: <3F5EB2D1-6A22-467E-B3C1-675567DFFFC4@roadrunner.com>

What color should the Dzus side curtains plates be for the TR3A? I  
have  seen them in black, chrome and body paint color.

Hans

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Fri Jul  2 10:56:34 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 09:56:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors
Message-ID: <E658F3D6-94F4-4BDB-A955-DCA54C302E86@roadrunner.com>

During a recent meet someone had fender side mirrors on his TR  that  
not only seem much sturdier than the originals but also looked very  
similar and would snap back to the original  position when disturbed.  
I searched the internet and catalogs to no avail. Can anyone help me  
out?

Hans deFer

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Fri Jul  2 11:08:49 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 10:08:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] reconditioning procedure online
In-Reply-To: <536686.62431.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <536686.62431.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D3AA57CC-7FAF-4ADF-9349-A9C859EE7335@roadrunner.com>

Cosmo, I looked  everywhere --- I suspect it is no longer on line.
  You probably already checked this; I  found the Triumph workshop  
manual, section M, p. 5+ to be very useful.

Hans




> Hi Hans!
>
> Thanks for the reply & taking the time to look for that site. If you  
> do find that exact site that you were wanting to send me, then  
> please do send me that info.
>
> I have 3 gen. (1 for each of the engines that I have & a spare) that  
> I would like to get working in tip-top-shape.
>
> I shall want to do this over the winter as a 'winter project'. I may  
> be contacting you again at a later time.
>
>
> -Cosmo Kramer
>
> --- On Wed, 6/30/10, Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com> wrote:
>
> From: Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com>
> Subject: Re: reconditioning procedure online
> To: "Cosmo Kramer" <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
> Date: Wednesday, June 30, 2010, 2:22 PM
>
>
> Cosmo, sorry for the  late reply. I found one of them on line, which  
> is quite good, but does not cover reconditioning the   
> commutator.This is important, unless it is in good shape already, to  
> keep the  brushes and commutator running cooler and more efficient.
>  I am still searching my archives for the one I saw, which did cover  
> that in detail. In essence, it showed how to clean the commutator  
> groves with a hacksaw blade that was ground to just fit in them and  
> then polishing by hand or some spinning device. I used #600 first  
> and finished with #1000 sandpaper.
> If the brushes have worn the commutator more than a 32nd" it should   
> be resurfaced on a lathe. Mine had little wear and I smoothened it  
> sufficiently with the sandpaper by hand.
> The cotton wrapping, on the field coils on yours, have more than  
> likely deteriorated also. If the copper windings look otherwise  
> good, I wouldn't bother to go through the difficult job of removing  
> them to re-wrap them. I believe that they were largely only  
> necessary to hold the coils close and neatly together while the   
> varnish was baked in the oven, unless, of course, you have reason  
> to  believe that there may be a short to the core.
> Any questions? Please, don't hesitate to  ask and good luck.
>
> Hans
>
>
>
>
> http://www.rmrileyrestoration.com/generator_rebuild.htm
>
>
>
> On Jun 26, 2010, at 6:03 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote:
>
>> Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 07:28:38 -0700
>> From: HANS DEFERRANTE <tr3 at roadrunner.com>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] '3a Alternator conversion...
>>
>> Randy, I reconditioned my TR3 generator --- resurfaced commutator
>> myself, new brushes , new bushing (front bearing bearing was still
>> good) ---- and found the generator  to be more than adequate to
>> handle , not only the starter, but also an add- on  12" radiator fan
>> with the radio, heater and all the lights on at bright beam. Total
>> cost was about about  $35,  including installation of the bushing by
>> a shop. The bushing was so bad, the armature was rubbing on the
>> stator. If the stator windings are in good condition, it is worth it,
>> I think.
>>   There is a reconditioning procedure online.
>>   If you are interested, I'll dig it up.
>>
>> Hans
>>
>> ---------------------------------------
>> Hi Hans!
>>
>> I'm catching up on my back reading of the digest, so that's why I'm  
>> responding so late.
>>
>> Yes, I would like a copy of that info. of "reconditioning procedure  
>> online".
>>
>>
>> -Cosmo Kramer

From boggiano at charter.net  Fri Jul  2 11:25:37 2010
From: boggiano at charter.net (Tom Boggiano)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 13:25:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Speedo Cable ( what is the correct path for it to take
 from the OD unit to the Speedo)
References: <mailman.26364.1278073009.914.triumphs@autox.team.net><F0E8E62387824B5C9C3ECC86F44DAA16@robertlaptop>
	<AANLkTimW6HU8OYo8obXQluIvkRTbxLqJ9VroQQrgC9O0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C332465A466A45F9810118019AADB489@CR.LOCAL>

Hi All

Into the final stretch on the road to getting an inspection sticker.

On the tr4 with OD transmission -  how is the speedo cable suppose to route?

>From the OD unit it goes into the floor board on the right hand side of the 
car (passenger in the US). from there what is the proper route for it to 
take to get to the speedo?

Thanks

Tom

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul  2 11:47:05 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 10:47:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Color of Side Curtain Plates
In-Reply-To: <3F5EB2D1-6A22-467E-B3C1-675567DFFFC4@roadrunner.com>
References: <3F5EB2D1-6A22-467E-B3C1-675567DFFFC4@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimk8t8oFhlZf9iZIzTiRBAyyAc3GJdn97ei4PLo@mail.gmail.com>

Mine seemed to be a plain metal with some sort of dull finish (cad?).
When I had the chrome re-done I had them do the plates in a brushed
nickel which approximated what I think was the original finish on
mine.

I, too, have seen a variety -- many thought to be (and possibly)
original.  I would think the painted ones would get pretty scratched
up if the curtains were fitted regularly.

Geo

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul  2 11:50:00 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 13:50:00 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
Message-ID: <b8ec.58dac689.395f80c8@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/2/2010 11:01:29 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr6parts at charter.net writes: 
> The cars used the same mechanical slide.
> Then in 80 they put the the gas strut on the TR7.
> Maybe they can be doubled up.
> 

The mounting was changed for the gas strut.  They were recessed in the void 
behind the inner panel.  I don't know if it would work on the same mount 
but I'll give it a try this weekend since I have a few spare struts and a TR6.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul  2 11:52:13 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 13:52:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter rebuild
Message-ID: <bb05.5d155967.395f814d@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/2/2010 11:05:20 AM Central Daylight Time, 
ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes: 
> The drive thingy (if you mean what Moss call 'sleeve assembly p/n
> 549-580) is available (there may even be an improved design out
> there).
> 
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=549-580%20&
> WebCatalogID=0
> 
> In any case, you can fake that, leastways I did.  Back when these were
> NLA I repaired mine by jamming the thing with strips of tire tube
> rubber, then pressing it together.  Got a replacement when someone
> (Steve Hedke?) finally developed one but have never bothered to pull
> the starter and install it as the inner tube fix still works after 20+
> years.
> 

Interesting.  But not something one would do if one were to offer a 
warranty.  Perhaps some two part polyurethane might work better.

Dave

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul  2 11:52:56 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 10:52:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors
In-Reply-To: <E658F3D6-94F4-4BDB-A955-DCA54C302E86@roadrunner.com>
References: <E658F3D6-94F4-4BDB-A955-DCA54C302E86@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilMA4ddCB9abX2kgBFyvwZi-iEZ3KBWe2hmYXZn@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/2/10, Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> During a recent meet someone had fender side mirrors on his TR  that
> not only seem much sturdier than the originals...

Of course 'original' would be no wing mirrors at all... but I assume
you mean the classic Lucas mirror usually fitted.  I recall back in
the day there were similar mirrors that were spring-loaded where the
mirror socket joined the stem, had a set somewhere along the way.
Likely not Lucas, more likely JCWhitney given my budget then.  Haven't
seen a set in years.

Geo

From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca  Fri Jul  2 12:36:40 2010
From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (=?iso-8859-1?Q?TR6Qu=E9bec?=)
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2010 14:36:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimW6HU8OYo8obXQluIvkRTbxLqJ9VroQQrgC9O0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.26364.1278073009.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<F0E8E62387824B5C9C3ECC86F44DAA16@robertlaptop>
	<AANLkTimW6HU8OYo8obXQluIvkRTbxLqJ9VroQQrgC9O0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D497784B151C4D0CA4E560494802F0EF@robertlaptop>

Geo,

I'll have to check the exact weight, i'm certainly conservative with that 
50pds.....

The actual system is holding only on one side but it would be prudent to 
monitor the new strut for some period, I agree!

Robert

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 12:36 PM
To: "TR6Quibec" <TR6Quebec at videotron.ca>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!

> On 7/2/10, TR6Quibec <TR6Quebec at videotron.ca> wrote:
>
>> I need a strut that can hold 45-55 pounds (rack included).
>
> That seems to me to be quite a bit of weight... I would be concerned
> about what that could due to the sheet metal around the boot lid
> hinges.
>
> This is a problem on TR4s and as I recall there is even a web page
> showing a bracket that can be made to strengthen that area (Justin
> W?).
>
> Geo

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Fri Jul  2 12:48:50 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (HANS DEFERRANTE)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 11:48:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilMA4ddCB9abX2kgBFyvwZi-iEZ3KBWe2hmYXZn@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E658F3D6-94F4-4BDB-A955-DCA54C302E86@roadrunner.com>
	<AANLkTilMA4ddCB9abX2kgBFyvwZi-iEZ3KBWe2hmYXZn@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6FDE7F22-407E-44B9-A2AD-6244CB277D22@roadrunner.com>

I didn't know that not even the Lucas mirrors were original. Wasn't  
at least a driver side  mirror required in those days --  at least in  
California?

On Jul 2, 2010, at 10:52 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:

> On 7/2/10, Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com> wrote:
>> During a recent meet someone had fender side mirrors on his TR  that
>> not only seem much sturdier than the originals...
>
> Of course 'original' would be no wing mirrors at all... but I assume
> you mean the classic Lucas mirror usually fitted.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  2 12:57:34 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 11:57:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors
In-Reply-To: <E658F3D6-94F4-4BDB-A955-DCA54C302E86@roadrunner.com>
References: <E658F3D6-94F4-4BDB-A955-DCA54C302E86@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <03dd01cb1a18$6f4c9be0$4de5d3a0$@rr.com>

> During a recent meet someone had fender side mirrors on his TR  that
> not only seem much sturdier than the originals but also looked very
> similar and would snap back to the original  position when disturbed.

Check the list archives.  I don't recall the information offhand, but I do
recall that John Macartney mentioned such mirrors a few years back, and
someone (perhaps John) posted the information about where to get them.

You might also look through the mirrors shown at
http://www.texautomotive.com/classic_exterior_mirrors.html
This one might be what you saw:
http://www.texautomotive.com/images/Classic/Mirrors/MR107.jpg

-- Randall 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Jul  2 13:29:48 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2010 14:29:48 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors
Message-ID: <784276627.133650.1278098988973.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>

Moss use to have them  - called boomarang mirrors or something like that.  I don't think they are available anymore.   I had them my '3 but didn't like them.  VERY susceptible to vibration. 
 
Carl


Jul 2, 2010 06:24:41 PM, ahwahneetr at gmail.com wrote:

On 7/2/10, Hans de Ferrante wrote:
> During a recent meet someone had fender side mirrors on his TR that
> not only seem much sturdier than the originals...

Of course 'original' would be no wing mirrors at all... but I assume
you mean the classic Lucas mirror usually fitted. I recall back in
the day there were similar mirrors that were spring-loaded where the
mirror socket joined the stem, had a set somewhere along the way.
Likely not Lucas, more likely JCWhitney given my budget then. Haven't
seen a set in years.

Geo

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From trglory at verizon.net  Fri Jul  2 13:31:48 2010
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2010 15:31:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilMA4ddCB9abX2kgBFyvwZi-iEZ3KBWe2hmYXZn@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E658F3D6-94F4-4BDB-A955-DCA54C302E86@roadrunner.com>
	<AANLkTilMA4ddCB9abX2kgBFyvwZi-iEZ3KBWe2hmYXZn@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001cb1a1d$37d3eb00$a77bc100$@net>

Yes indeed......spring mounted mirrors were available on new TR3s. During
the dealer's sales pitch, I remember him pointing these out to me as being
more desirable than the regular Lucas mirror.

They were not Lucas but were made by another English company. I have an old
broken one in my stock of "valuable parts". If I can find it I will send a
follow-up message if there is a company name on it.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 1:53 PM
To: Hans de Ferrante
Cc: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors

On 7/2/10, Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> During a recent meet someone had fender side mirrors on his TR  that
> not only seem much sturdier than the originals...

Of course 'original' would be no wing mirrors at all... but I assume
you mean the classic Lucas mirror usually fitted.  I recall back in
the day there were similar mirrors that were spring-loaded where the
mirror socket joined the stem, had a set somewhere along the way.
Likely not Lucas, more likely JCWhitney given my budget then.  Haven't
seen a set in years.

Geo

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Jul  2 13:32:41 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2010 14:32:41 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Color of Side Curtain Plates
Message-ID: <2098497869.133797.1278099161550.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>


From trglory at verizon.net  Fri Jul  2 13:39:12 2010
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2010 15:39:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilMA4ddCB9abX2kgBFyvwZi-iEZ3KBWe2hmYXZn@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E658F3D6-94F4-4BDB-A955-DCA54C302E86@roadrunner.com>
	<AANLkTilMA4ddCB9abX2kgBFyvwZi-iEZ3KBWe2hmYXZn@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000101cb1a1e$403f4360$c0bdca20$@net>

Yes indeed......spring mounted mirrors were available on new TR3s. During
the dealer's sales pitch, I remember him pointing these out to me as being
more desirable than the regular Lucas mirror.

They were not Lucas but were made by another English company. I have an old
broken one in my stock of "valuable parts". If I can find it I will send a
follow-up message if there is a company name on it.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 1:53 PM
To: Hans de Ferrante
Cc: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors

On 7/2/10, Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> During a recent meet someone had fender side mirrors on his TR  that
> not only seem much sturdier than the originals...

Of course 'original' would be no wing mirrors at all... but I assume
you mean the classic Lucas mirror usually fitted.  I recall back in
the day there were similar mirrors that were spring-loaded where the
mirror socket joined the stem, had a set somewhere along the way.
Likely not Lucas, more likely JCWhitney given my budget then.  Haven't
seen a set in years.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  2 13:44:25 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 12:44:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] reconditioning procedure online
In-Reply-To: <D3AA57CC-7FAF-4ADF-9349-A9C859EE7335@roadrunner.com>
References: <536686.62431.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<D3AA57CC-7FAF-4ADF-9349-A9C859EE7335@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <03e501cb1a1e$fa9e4ad0$efdae070$@rr.com>

The TR2-3 workshop manual has a very brief section on reconditioning the
generator commutator (page M-8), perhaps that is what you were thinking of?
http://tinyurl.com/37voevm

But reconditioning the commutator for a DC generator or motor (same thing,
really) is a very standard operation.  You should be able to find any number
of references that give the procedure, without being specific to Lucas
generators.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  2 13:58:04 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 12:58:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors
In-Reply-To: <6FDE7F22-407E-44B9-A2AD-6244CB277D22@roadrunner.com>
References: <E658F3D6-94F4-4BDB-A955-DCA54C302E86@roadrunner.com>
	<AANLkTilMA4ddCB9abX2kgBFyvwZi-iEZ3KBWe2hmYXZn@mail.gmail.com>
	<6FDE7F22-407E-44B9-A2AD-6244CB277D22@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <03f201cb1a20$e2b4b380$a81e1a80$@rr.com>

> I didn't know that not even the Lucas mirrors were original. Wasn't
> at least a driver side  mirror required in those days --  at least in
> California?

When TS13571L (an original CA car) came to me, there was no indication that
it had ever been fitted with wing mirrors.  So I'm guessing there was no
requirement back then for more than one mirror.

But even if there was, the outside mirrors would have been dealer-installed,
not factory.  And the dealers had a tendency to install whatever they felt
like, wherever it looked good to them.

-- Randall 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Jul  2 14:10:19 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2010 16:10:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Color of Side Curtain Plates
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimk8t8oFhlZf9iZIzTiRBAyyAc3GJdn97ei4PLo@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3F5EB2D1-6A22-467E-B3C1-675567DFFFC4@roadrunner.com>
	<AANLkTimk8t8oFhlZf9iZIzTiRBAyyAc3GJdn97ei4PLo@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <781D3C3ED6B84F4BB639C8B2A699482D@CarlPC>

Try this again - forgot to switch to plain text...
George describes the original material - kind of mottled/grey/silver - 
probably was a cad plating.  Black seemed to be an alternative on 
replacement ones in the 70's-80's.  Painted Black - blended in well with the 
prevailing black interior.
Chrome - not going there....

As Fred T would say... Powder Coat in a 'hammered argent silver' (or similar 
grey/silver) and you won't have to worry about mucking them up. (Hi Fred!)
Carl
(Another red-letter day this weekend.  Maybe I'll schedule it for the 4th - 
seems appropriate.   Battery and all connections in place - as is gas tank, 
lines & fittings. & carbs.  Ready to fire it up!)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(Photos updated 5/18/10)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: "Hans de Ferrante" <tr3 at roadrunner.com>
Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Color of Side Curtain Plates


> Mine seemed to be a plain metal with some sort of dull finish (cad?).
> When I had the chrome re-done I had them do the plates in a brushed
> nickel which approximated what I think was the original finish on
> mine.
>
> I, too, have seen a variety -- many thought to be (and possibly)
> original.  I would think the painted ones would get pretty scratched
> up if the curtains were fitted regularly.
>
> Geo
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  2 14:22:25 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 13:22:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Color of Side Curtain Plates
In-Reply-To: <781D3C3ED6B84F4BB639C8B2A699482D@CarlPC>
References: <3F5EB2D1-6A22-467E-B3C1-675567DFFFC4@roadrunner.com>
	<AANLkTimk8t8oFhlZf9iZIzTiRBAyyAc3GJdn97ei4PLo@mail.gmail.com>
	<781D3C3ED6B84F4BB639C8B2A699482D@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <040001cb1a24$498ec7f0$dcac57d0$@rr.com>

> George describes the original material - kind of mottled/grey/silver -
> probably was a cad plating.  

Or perhaps a "Hammertone" type paint?  I had some, long ago, that were
mottled grey and clearly some sort of paint.  And yes, the paint was chipped
around the pockets where the ends of the side curtain "legs" go.

-- Randall 

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Fri Jul  2 15:35:23 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 17:35:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors
Message-ID: <7e1a.1329470d.395fb59b@aol.com>

Just for interest, here's a link to a photo of a cool side mirror that the  
Australian TR Register has developed for sidescreen cars.
 
_http://www.tr-register.com.au/pics/Members%20Cars/brownk08/sidemirror.jpg_ 
(http://www.tr-register.com.au/pics/Members%20Cars/brownk08/sidemirror.jpg) 
 
Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From carlsereda at aol.com  Fri Jul  2 17:44:09 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2010 16:44:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] snap back mirrors
In-Reply-To: <mailman.26456.1278093122.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2B3F963B.DF84.4D32.BDE3.0F7EEB8029BB@aol.com>

I have a photo of a pair of vintage snap back mirrors that are shown 
in an old authentic Standard-Triumph Accessories flyer - if you want 
my photo (photos are of the pair of snap-backs I bought at a Brit 
meet) let me know.
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

On 7/2/10, Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> During a recent meet someone had fender side mirrors on his TR that
> not only seem much sturdier than the originals...

Of course 'original' would be no wing mirrors at all... but I assume
you mean the classic Lucas mirror usually fitted. I recall back in
the day there were similar mirrors that were spring-loaded where the
mirror socket joined the stem, had a set somewhere along the way.
Likely not Lucas, more likely JCWhitney given my budget then. Haven't
seen a set in years.

Geo

From kentech0822 at myfairpoint.net  Fri Jul  2 18:52:47 2010
From: kentech0822 at myfairpoint.net (Peter K)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 20:52:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors
Message-ID: <8410BE0B9F034E3DA22B57D0C12A18E0@KENTECHHP>

On 7/2/10, Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> During a recent meet someone had fender side mirrors on his TR  that
> not only seem much sturdier than the originals...

>Of course 'original' would be no wing mirrors at all... but I assume
>you mean the classic Lucas mirror usually fitted.  I recall back in
>the day there were similar mirrors that were spring-loaded where the
>mirror socket joined the stem, had a set somewhere along the way.
>Likely not Lucas, more likely JCWhitney given my budget then.  Haven't
>seen a set in years.

>Geo

They're actually called Tex Springback mirror stems. I have a set (stems and
heads) on my 3A and they work as advertised. Problem is the front wing mirrors
are hard to see so I added a baby-on-board convex mirror to the windshield. It
cost around $5 and mounts with a suction cup.
Anyway Tex is here : http://www.texautomotive.com/classic_mirror_stems.html

Hope this helps,
PeterK

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Fri Jul  2 19:33:59 2010
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2010 18:33:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A stock-type front Y-Pipe, mild steel, WANTED
Message-ID: <4C2E9387.1050403@greenheart.com>

Does anyone have a stock-type, mild steel (not Stainless Steel)  front 
Y-Pipe from a TR4A that they'd like to unload?  I would expect a little 
surface rust, but just looking for a bargain as opposed to a new one.   
Maybe you replaced a decent system with a stainless one and you have 
your old one in the garage?  Or maybe you have one that came from a 
parts car?

I'm looking for #10 in this Victoria British diagram....
http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/tc/full.aspx?Page=114

New ones are between $70 and $110 for SS...   I am looking for a bargain 
price for a used one and I could also trade for a silicone valve cover 
gasket for TR's (TR2's through TR 6's, etc.)

--Justin Wagner
jmwagnersales.com

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri Jul  2 19:49:29 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 21:49:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Decal instructions?
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946154@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi all:

A few years back I bought the decals for the turn signals and headlight (Dim,
flicker, off) switch on the TR6. that go on the plinths (covers really) of the
steering column. Finally getting to putting the things on.

Do these things go on some special way? They don't appear to be peel off and
stick, so I assume they were the type you soak in a bowl of water for a while.
Has anybody done these recently?

Mark
1972 TR6

From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca  Fri Jul  2 20:09:28 2010
From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (=?iso-8859-1?Q?TR6Qu=E9bec?=)
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2010 22:09:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
In-Reply-To: <mailman.26561.1278120786.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.26561.1278120786.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8C51765FB3B842859FC71C291A6D14A6@robertlaptop>

Okay, the trunk lid at fixation point is about 32 pounds, plus my S-S rack 
at 5.5 pounds so I guess that 40 pounds will do!

I have mesured again the +compressed; dimension at 11.5 inches. I think I 
will try one that I found at NAPA with 20 inches extended and 12 inches 
compressed. With some available braquettes, it will most probably allow for 
a little variation in the dimensions.

I will report back...

Robert
TR6Quebec.
=============================
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2010 14:36:40 -0400
> From: TR6Qu?bec <TR6Quebec at videotron.ca>
> Subject: [TR] TR6 trunk lid gas strut conversion!
> To: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <D497784B151C4D0CA4E560494802F0EF at robertlaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
> reply-type=original
>
> Geo,
>
> I'll have to check the exact weight, i'm certainly conservative with that
> 50pds.....
>
> The actual system is holding only on one side but it would be prudent to
> monitor the new strut for some period, I agree!
>
> Robert

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  2 20:15:29 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 19:15:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
Message-ID: <995697.49179.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

How do listers feel about loaning they're cars for events such as weddings, prom ect?  I've been contacted several times and usually I comply.  Normally I have them come and drive with me to be sure they can handle a manual shift.  I thought one driver ruined my overdrive, however after the experience it did work fine.

I just received a request today from someone i don't know (but with connections to my small town)  with a very very interesting story (too long to repeat here).  Just wondered what others experiences have been and what concerns/issues one should look for.

thanks

gary n.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  2 20:30:04 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 19:30:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 loss of power
Message-ID: <56642.43229.qm@web120007.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

long story...but here goes

couple months ago the tr3 lost power. at one point
it quit completely. got out pumped the primer on the fuel pump. got in and it
started and ran good. then it lost power again and then it got it back, lost
power.......got it back...etc. it limped and ran and got me home.

i figured
fuel pump. checked the diaphragm and yup, there was a small hole.
bought a kit
from ****, installed it. ran great. for about a month. then the same problem.
run bad, run good............cursed at **** for selling me a diaphragm not
good for modern fuel. took the pump apart and could not see any thing wrong.
huh!

buddy Paul had about 4 other old pumps in a box.
took what looked to be
the best of them. installed it. car ran great. that was 2 weeks ago and a 1/2
tank regular. today, same problems.

ill take WAG and test them this weekend.
i have lots of time to play, this being a long weekend celebrating the defeat
of my forefathers! ;-)

thank guys
Frank

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  2 20:35:56 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 19:35:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 starter motors
Message-ID: <273478.26001.qm@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

working on a Buddy's rebuild. he has a post 60000 TR3.
his starter motor is
the nice smooth round cylinder type.
he has a bolt on flywheel ring gear
we
think the starter may be bad
we have 2 other starter motors.
 replacement
option one is from a tr3 and is the multiple shaped type.
replacement option
two is from a mayflower and looks to be exactly the same as replacement option
one.
will either of these work? assuming they are in working order.
thanks
frank

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Jul  2 21:23:59 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 03:23:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] Decal instructions?
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946154@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946154@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F51F7BE177@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Mark, the last time I did this it was exactly as you describe. You soak the
transfers in water for a few mins, make sure the surface of the escutcheons
are clean and free of contaminants and then just slide each transfer into
position and gently position it and smooth it out if needed. Once it dries it
is there for a long time.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Hooper
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 9:49 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Decal instructions?

Hi all:

A few years back I bought the decals for the turn signals and headlight (Dim,
flicker, off) switch on the TR6. that go on the plinths (covers really) of the
steering column. Finally getting to putting the things on.

Do these things go on some special way? They don't appear to be peel off and
stick, so I assume they were the type you soak in a bowl of water for a
while.
Has anybody done these recently?

Mark
1972 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  2 21:30:31 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 20:30:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 starter motors
In-Reply-To: <273478.26001.qm@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <273478.26001.qm@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00f301cb1a60$175b8ed0$0301a8c0@randall>

> will either of these work? assuming they are in working order.

Most likely no, Frank.  The early TR starter will definitely not work with
the later bolt-on ring gear; and I'm pretty sure the Mayflower unit won't
either.

If you feel like a drive though, I could probably loan or sell you something
that would work ...

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  2 21:35:19 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 20:35:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 loss of power
In-Reply-To: <56642.43229.qm@web120007.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <56642.43229.qm@web120007.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00f401cb1a60$c2f686f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> buddy Paul had about 4 other old pumps in a box.
> took what looked to be
> the best of them. installed it. car ran great. that was 2 
> weeks ago and a 1/2
> tank regular. today, same problems.

Sounds to me like the problem is something other than the pump itself.
Given how often ignition problems masquerade as fuel problems (and vice
versa), I would likely start by checking fuel pressure when the problem is
happening.  (As an old friend of mine said, a test is worth a thousand
theories.)  Might also be worth trying to check pressure at the pump inlet
(if it goes negative, there is a problem between pump & tank).

Have you checked the tank for debris, changed the fuel lines, etc ?

Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul  2 22:37:00 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 21:37:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Decal instructions?
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946154@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946154@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <6BE2A12F020446C48C91B25600B56D6F@joepentiumnew>

One thing about those water transfer decals is sometime (or perhaps most
times) over time they lose the ability to come off the backing paper.

Soaking in water is supposed to make the decal slide off the backing so you
can simply slide it onto the surface.  But over time, the chemicals in the
backing paper that makes it slick evaporate and make the decal difficult to
remove.  Soaking much longer that you would expect seems to help but doesn't
always resolve the issue.

It is always a good idea to use the decals immediately upon receipt.

They work just like the one you used to put on model airplanes and cars.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Hooper
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 6:49 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Decal instructions?

Hi all:

A few years back I bought the decals for the turn signals and headlight
(Dim,
flicker, off) switch on the TR6. that go on the plinths (covers really) of
the
steering column. Finally getting to putting the things on.

Do these things go on some special way? They don't appear to be peel off and
stick, so I assume they were the type you soak in a bowl of water for a
while.
Has anybody done these recently?

Mark
1972 TR6

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Jul  3 07:11:10 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 09:11:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
In-Reply-To: <995697.49179.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <995697.49179.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201007030911.11249.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday, July 02, 2010 10:15:29 pm Gary Nafziger wrote:
> How do listers feel about loaning they're cars for events such as weddings,
> prom ect?  I've been contacted several times and usually I comply. 
> Normally I have them come and drive with me to be sure they can handle a
> manual shift.  I thought one driver ruined my overdrive, however after the
> experience it did work fine.
> 
> I just received a request today from someone i don't know (but with
> connections to my small town)  with a very very interesting story (too
> long to repeat here).  Just wondered what others experiences have been and
> what concerns/issues one should look for.
> 
> thanks
> 
> gary n.
> 
Gary,

My 63 TR4 (SPA White) has been in 3 weddings but I did the driving. In 2, I 
drove the bride to the wedding ceremony. The other one it was just used as a 
prop for photos at the reception.

It is best to check with your insurance company. If you have classic type 
insurance, they may not cover if someone other than you are driving.

But between you and me, no one gets into the drivers seat with the key on any 
of my 3  TRs but me, wife or kids.

Bob

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat Jul  3 08:28:36 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 14:28:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
In-Reply-To: <815182658.204251278165353675.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <847276387.212891278167316095.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

This is a hard one. I let my SON drive away from his wedding in the TR3 and had no problem with that. If a friend asked, I might offer the Stag with me as driver and them in the back. If they were good enough friends to lend the car to them, I'd disconnect the overdrive, since they'd not me needing it and I wouldn't want them to accidentally hurt things. Over all, I feel comfortable driving for them.... 
I'm the same way with power tools, I'll go use my tools for friends instead of lending them out. 
Just my two cents worth. (The same son has had my S2000 for weeks at a time and I don't worry at all - but 50 year old cars are different) 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, July 2, 2010 10:15:29 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: [TR] lending cars? 

How do listers feel about loaning they're cars for events such as weddings, prom ect? I've been contacted several times and usually I comply. Normally I have them come and drive with me to be sure they can handle a manual shift. I thought one driver ruined my overdrive, however after the experience it did work fine. 

I just received a request today from someone i don't know (but with connections to my small town) with a very very interesting story (too long to repeat here). Just wondered what others experiences have been and what concerns/issues one should look for. 

thanks 

gary n. 

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Sat Jul  3 09:02:37 2010
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 11:02:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
Message-ID: <4d808.7545da9d.3960ab0d@aol.com>

How do  listers feel about loaning they're cars for events such as 
weddings, prom  ect?  I've been contacted several times and usually I  comply. 
 



Amazed that you or anyone would even consider loaning out a collector  car.
Before loaning again, it would be prudent of you to ask your insurance  
agent or company if that is allowed.  Personally, and I have said it  before, I 
would be more apt to loan my tooth brush before the  TR2.
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
2011 TRA in Fort Wayne, Indiana

From trglory at verizon.net  Sat Jul  3 09:06:22 2010
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 11:06:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 "snap-back" Side Mirrors
In-Reply-To: <8410BE0B9F034E3DA22B57D0C12A18E0@KENTECHHP>
References: <8410BE0B9F034E3DA22B57D0C12A18E0@KENTECHHP>
Message-ID: <000801cb1ac1$4cea1290$e6be37b0$@net>

The remnant I have is the same as the Tex mirror but with no script on the
back. It was on the car as delivered by the dealer. Outside mirrors were not
required by law in NJ when TR3s were new, but virtually every MGA and TR3 on
the dealers' lots had them.

Joe
_______
Yes indeed......spring mounted mirrors were available on new TR3s. During
the dealer's sales pitch, I remember him pointing these out to me as being
more desirable than the regular Lucas mirror.

They were not Lucas but were made by another English company. I have an old
broken one in my stock of "valuable parts". If I can find it I will send a
follow-up message if there is a company name on it.

Joe

_______

They're actually called Tex Springback mirror stems. I have a set (stems and
heads) on my 3A and they work as advertised. Problem is the front wing
mirrors
are hard to see so I added a baby-on-board convex mirror to the windshield.
It
cost around $5 and mounts with a suction cup.
Anyway Tex is here : http://www.texautomotive.com/classic_mirror_stems.html

Hope this helps,
PeterK

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Sat Jul  3 09:06:52 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 08:06:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 loss of power
In-Reply-To: <56642.43229.qm@web120007.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <56642.43229.qm@web120007.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0A512BCC-A2E0-4D31-B989-7448970841D9@roadrunner.com>

On Jul 2, 2010, at 7:30 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:

> long story...but here goes
>
> couple months ago the tr3 lost power. at one point
> it quit completely. got out pumped the primer on the fuel pump. got  
> in and it
> started and ran good. then it lost power again and then it got it  
> back, lost
> power.......got it back...etc. it limped and ran and got me home.

That sounds almost exactly like what happened to me  with my  TR3A. It  
had been in hibernation for 27 years before recent restoration.
Every time I thought I fixed it, it recurred, usually on the highway  
going over 60 miles and tromping down on it. After pulling over and  
stopping it would usually run o.k. again for a little while and I  
could limp home with it.
This was my sequence of events with the problem recurring  every time  
between:

1)	Replaced fuel tank, purged fuel lines, filters and rebuilt fuel pump.

2)	Found that the vacuum  piston was sticky at the top position in the  
bell chamber of the  second SU carb -- Cleaned and polished the  
chamber wall.

3)	Found that the float chamber valve was stuck in the shut position  
of the same carb --- replaced it.

4)	Found that the float chamber valve was stuck in the open position  
of the same carb. Discovered that the spring loaded tip of needle  
assembly had worn a 	 dimple in the float lever arm causing the needle  
to misalign and jam ---- carefully sanded and polished the  lever to   
remove the dimple ---The needle seemed 	to travel freely, now using  
the same needle and seat.

5)	Found that the  same needle was  stuck again in the closed 	 
position and was sticky again. Everything was clean as a whistle . I  
replaced it with  a  new seat and needle. I noticed that the second  
seat and needle set did not fit as tightly as the first one. I bought  
both of them simultaneously from Moss and I suspect that the quality  
control of some of this aftermart stuff leaves something to be desired.

I have since driven it for about 250 miles and it hasn't happened  
again,  but,  frankly, I still don't  quite trust her enough yet for  
any longer trips.
I hope this may help you fix your problem.

Hans

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat Jul  3 10:59:07 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 12:59:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] A good andHappy Independence day from TSI
Message-ID: <4C2F6C5B.4090603@bright.net>

Uncle Sam,.Spitfire adn his friend "hydrant" wish you all a good 
Independence Day.  Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat Jul  3 11:25:07 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 11:25:07 -0600
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
In-Reply-To: <995697.49179.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <995697.49179.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CB1B40A9-EA72-46F9-A664-95CE2DD39A43@comcast.net>

Ask Dan Masters how lending a car out worked for him...it didn't.   
Dan, one of the nicest southern gentlemen ever, loaned his TR6 to (and  
the list will have to fill in the details) a French? man to drive  
around the U.S.  The guy proceeded to ruin a number of things on the  
car but the worst offense was trying to pry open the bonnet with a big  
screwdriver.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jul 2, 2010, at 8:15 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:

> How do listers feel about loaning they're cars for events such as  
> weddings, prom ect?  I've been contacted several times and usually I  
> comply.  Normally I have them come and drive with me to be sure they  
> can handle a manual shift.  I thought one driver ruined my  
> overdrive, however after the experience it did work fine.
>
> I just received a request today from someone i don't know (but with  
> connections to my small town)  with a very very interesting story  
> (too long to repeat here).  Just wondered what others experiences  
> have been and what concerns/issues one should look for.
>
> thanks
>
> gary n.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Jul  3 12:02:09 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 11:02:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
In-Reply-To: <CB1B40A9-EA72-46F9-A664-95CE2DD39A43@comcast.net>
References: <995697.49179.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<CB1B40A9-EA72-46F9-A664-95CE2DD39A43@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikYer19F8SyUOuNBSG64KzSbYrJiGY0qRi6OyPA@mail.gmail.com>

I have often lent the driver's seat of one of my TRs to TR owners
visiting from out-of-town... but always with me in the other seat.
Enthusiasts from as far away as the UK & Israel have enjoyed an
Arizona desert drive.

But the thought of handing the keys to a non-TR owner or, worse yet,
to someone who will drive it w/o me is just unthinkable.

Geo

From davidt at opentext.com  Sat Jul  3 14:01:03 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 16:01:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3a battery sizes
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Afternoon all,

After 5yrs of slumber, surprise, surprise the battery in the '3a needs
replacing.  I was in a local TSC store and they are having a sale on car
and farm batteries (I think it is a hint hint).  The reference book has
a listing for all Triumphs, very cool, including the '46-48 1800 :-).
They listed a couple of units, including a heavy duty tractor battery,
yeap all can snicker I felt the irony as well. It is 13" across, is the
standard battery box big enough?  I am not near the car to get a quick
measurement.

thanks
David Templeton
'59 TR3a
'74 Spitsix
(both in my possesion again)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jul  3 14:20:20 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 16:20:20 EDT
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
Message-ID: <6f864.5597df75.3960f584@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/3/2010 12:46:02 PM Central Daylight Time, 
levilevi at comcast.net writes: 
> Ask Dan Masters how lending a car out worked for him...it didn't.   
> Dan, one of the nicest southern gentlemen ever, loaned his TR6 to (and  
> the list will have to fill in the details) a French? man to drive  
> around the U.S.  The guy proceeded to ruin a number of things on the  
> car but the worst offense was trying to pry open the bonnet with a big  
> screwdriver.
> 

He was a Brit (with a French name).  He was also not your typicla British 
car driver.  He was one of a kind (thank goodness).  I heard rumors that he 
did the simlar to two other triumphs.

On the other hand I loaned my TR6 to a fellow from over seas and he drive 
it 6,000 miles and returned it intact and unscathed.

As always the answer is "It depends."  It depends on the person you loan 
the car to, how he is going to use it and where he is going to take it.

Dave

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Sat Jul  3 14:36:37 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 13:36:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikYer19F8SyUOuNBSG64KzSbYrJiGY0qRi6OyPA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <995697.49179.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<CB1B40A9-EA72-46F9-A664-95CE2DD39A43@comcast.net>
	<AANLkTikYer19F8SyUOuNBSG64KzSbYrJiGY0qRi6OyPA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <98092.38151.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Geo Hahn wrote: 
>But the thought of handing the keys to a non-TR owner or,
worse yet,
>to someone who will drive it w/o me is just unthinkable.

And
I feel that's exactly what Joe Pawlak was thinking about this time last year
when he handed me the keys to "uncle jack" at Daytona Beach for the Triumph
Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive. Specifically, while the car was titled in Joe's
name, it technically belonged to the many incredible people on this list who
so generously donated so much money to buy it in the first place. But Joe and
his team put in more than 14,000 documented hours in creating a brand new Stag
and I think they're all entitled to a degree of ownership? Is that why Ted
Schumacher so justly awarded Joe Pawlak the annual Sweat/Equity Award?
But is
lending the car just a worry for the owner? Probably, but it shouldn't be!
When I accepted "uncle jack's" keys from Joe, having already seen the car and
driven it before the start, I was equally terrified of it getting damaged
while in my custody and I had many not very good night's worrying about "what
if's" while "uj" was under my responsibility. I hope I treated "him"
considerately and I like to think I did because the car won the VTR Stag
Concours after 15,000 miles in a tad over 3 months - and that VTR accolade was
given after only vacuuming the interior and giving the car a good wash.
What
think you Phil Ethier, now that "uncle jack" is yours?

Jonmac

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sat Jul  3 14:39:46 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 16:39:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Decal instructions? - e-mail deafness issues
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946155@CMS01.winhosting.local>

My Exchange server service croaked last night. If anybody posted an answer to
my decal question could they please send it to me again?

Thanks,

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

________________________________________
From: Mark Hooper
Sent: July 2, 2010 9:49 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Decal instructions?

Hi all:

A few years back I bought the decals for the turn signals and headlight (Dim,
flicker, off) switch on the TR6. that go on the plinths (covers really) of the
steering column. Finally getting to putting the things on.

Do these things go on some special way? They don't appear to be peel off and
stick, so I assume they were the type you soak in a bowl of water for a while.
Has anybody done these recently?

Mark
1972 TR6

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat Jul  3 14:47:13 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 16:47:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3a battery sizes
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <86BAD8BA27A84D62AAFCB98663689103@DCS78M81>

Mine is 13.25" by 7.5 inches inside the plastic battery box inside the metal 
box. So you should be ok.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 4:01 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3a battery sizes


> Afternoon all,
>
> After 5yrs of slumber, surprise, surprise the battery in the '3a needs
> replacing.  I was in a local TSC store and they are having a sale on car
> and farm batteries (I think it is a hint hint).  The reference book has
> a listing for all Triumphs, very cool, including the '46-48 1800 :-).
> They listed a couple of units, including a heavy duty tractor battery,
> yeap all can snicker I felt the irony as well. It is 13" across, is the
> standard battery box big enough?  I am not near the car to get a quick
> measurement.
>
> thanks
> David Templeton
> '59 TR3a
> '74 Spitsix
> (both in my possesion again)

From davidt at opentext.com  Sat Jul  3 15:02:45 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 17:02:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3a battery sizes
In-Reply-To: <86BAD8BA27A84D62AAFCB98663689103@DCS78M81>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<86BAD8BA27A84D62AAFCB98663689103@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4457@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Et al,

Do you think it will look out of place?  The battery tray would be
filled with this battery, for sure it would start all the time with this
beast :-)

David

-----Original Message-----
From: THOMAS FANSHER [mailto:tfansher at comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 4:47 PM
To: David Templeton; Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3a battery sizes

Mine is 13.25" by 7.5 inches inside the plastic battery box inside the
metal
box. So you should be ok.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 4:01 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3a battery sizes


> Afternoon all,
>
> After 5yrs of slumber, surprise, surprise the battery in the '3a needs
> replacing.  I was in a local TSC store and they are having a sale on
car
> and farm batteries (I think it is a hint hint).  The reference book
has
> a listing for all Triumphs, very cool, including the '46-48 1800 :-).
> They listed a couple of units, including a heavy duty tractor battery,
> yeap all can snicker I felt the irony as well. It is 13" across, is
the
> standard battery box big enough?  I am not near the car to get a quick
> measurement.
>
> thanks
> David Templeton
> '59 TR3a
> '74 Spitsix
> (both in my possesion again)

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sat Jul  3 15:06:56 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 17:06:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] To feed or not to feed
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946156@CMS01.winhosting.local>

At the risk of reviving the rancorous discourse, I have a question. First, the
usual long pre-amble/explanation:

For the past couple of years I have been chasing down leaks and issues related
to a strong oil smell in the car when running. I was convinced it was leaks
burning off the exhaust. Now, amazingly I seem to have cured all leaks on the
car. Dry as a stick down under (and, no, it is not out of oil). Carbs are
newly rebuilt and no gas leaks anywhere either. Unfortunately the smell is
still there.

Last night when working on timing and idle, I noticed that the car is
definitely smoking out the exhausts when idling. I do not have a lot of miles
on the engine and it had all new valve guides and valves installed in the
rebuild (over a decade ago, but only a few thousand miles since then). I am
not burning much oil at all in normal use and the oil is not excessively
black, so blowby seems minimal.

I am suspecting excessive oiling. After years of whining about the rotten
oiling in the TR6 rocker shaft, I bought and installed one of the external
oiling feeds for the engine. Certainly there seems to be lots of oil up top
now. Before, I recall seeing all sorts of dry rockers and I went through two
shafts. However, when converting to roller rockers I seem to recall having
discovered a pea of orange silicone in the shaft pedestal passageway where it
fed into the shaft. So, perhaps my problem was self-inflicted, rather than
just rotten design.

So, I am guessing the solution is either to install valve stem seals, or to
dump the oiling feed. Is there concensus/opinion on the list as to which way
is best? I do not race the car. 75% is spent cruising slowly down lakeshore
just looking at houses etc. The rest is occasionally highway runs to
countryside. Is it easy to install stem seals or am I making life
unnecessarily hard? Is there a middle road? I do recall hearing about oiling
feed restrictors; what is that about?

I appeal to the wisdom of the list!

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul  3 15:25:02 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 14:25:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3a battery sizes
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <011801cb1af6$334380d0$0301a8c0@randall>

> It is 13" across, is the standard battery box big enough? 

Should be no problem, David.  I used to run a Group 27, which is over 12"
across, and there was room left over for a can of brake fluif.

Randall

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sat Jul  3 16:48:12 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 18:48:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3 starter motors
In-Reply-To: <273478.26001.qm@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <273478.26001.qm@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CCE918F3370D56-125C-CA59@webmail-m064.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----

From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>


working on a Buddy's rebuild. he has a post 60000 TR3. his starter motor is
the nice smooth round cylinder type.

...option two is from a mayflower and looks to be exactly the same as
replacement option one....

==AM==
I'd question whether that second starter is from a Mayflower. They used
essentially the same starter
as found in most Heralds, Spitfires, GT6s and the TR250; it's the M35G model,
where the later TR3
and TR4 starter is the M418G model. What's the part number on the "Mayflower"
starter?

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?

*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er,
Triumph Herald engine with wings.

-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)



Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org



Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Jul  3 16:54:41 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 17:54:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] pertronix wiring
Message-ID: <084489E462824C10A4E802E61E6F93BE@ranteer.local>

hi.  I've misplaced my wiring diagram after sending out my dizzy, with
pertronix, for rebuild.

its got two leads on it.  which goes where?

I just want to get it right the first time!

thanks!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul  3 17:27:41 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 16:27:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] To feed or not to feed
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946156@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946156@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <013701cb1b07$55372730$0301a8c0@randall>

> So, I am guessing the solution is either to install valve 
> stem seals, or to
> dump the oiling feed. Is there concensus/opinion on the list 
> as to which way is best? 

I don't know if it is the consensus, but my very definite opinion is to dump
the external feed!

I tried all the other approaches on a TR3 motor (nearly identical to the TR6
in this area), the final result was a broken piston.
http://tinyurl.com/25l899z

This was with both seals AND a restrictor installed (one of the seals came
apart).

Note that the rockers don't need very much oil (just as the original system
supplies).  As long as they get a few drops now and again, more oil won't
make them last any longer.  It is worthwhile checking every few years (maybe
every other time you adjust the valves) that oil is still slowly getting to
them.  If not, you can pull and clean the rocker shaft.  Excess sludge in
the shaft is the usual cause of lack of oil (although in my case, it
appeared that someone had installed the cam bearing wrong).

Randall

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Jul  3 17:35:16 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 17:35:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] pertronix wiring
In-Reply-To: <084489E462824C10A4E802E61E6F93BE@ranteer.local>
References: <084489E462824C10A4E802E61E6F93BE@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4C2FC934.9060407@bradakis.com>

The red one goes to the positive terminal on the coil, the black one
to the negative.  The positive terminal is the one that should show 12
volts when the ignition is on.

mjb.

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Jul  3 17:48:09 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 19:48:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
In-Reply-To: <CB1B40A9-EA72-46F9-A664-95CE2DD39A43@comcast.net>
References: <995697.49179.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<CB1B40A9-EA72-46F9-A664-95CE2DD39A43@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <9BE7FDE986114D52AA3DA357A7113B71@BobPC>

Bud............I had forgotten all about that little episode. And as I 
recall the guy was very active on the Mail List.............not so active 
after the "incident". It happened just before VTR in Portland Maine and Dan 
spent lots of time & $$$$$ getting the car fixed up for the trip. I don't 
think the guy even offered Dan and money at all for all the damage.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 1:25 PM
To: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] lending cars?

> Ask Dan Masters how lending a car out worked for him...it didn't.   Dan, 
> one of the nicest southern gentlemen ever, loaned his TR6 to (and  the 
> list will have to fill in the details) a French? man to drive  around the 
> U.S.  The guy proceeded to ruin a number of things on the  car but the 
> worst offense was trying to pry open the bonnet with a big  screwdriver.
>
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul  3 18:03:10 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 17:03:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] pertronix wiring
In-Reply-To: <4C2FC934.9060407@bradakis.com>
References: <084489E462824C10A4E802E61E6F93BE@ranteer.local>
	<4C2FC934.9060407@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <014101cb1b0c$4a26ded0$0301a8c0@randall>

> The red one goes to the positive terminal on the coil, the black one
> to the negative.  

Unless of course your car is positive ground.

Randall

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Jul  3 18:44:29 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 17:44:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 loss of power
In-Reply-To: <0A512BCC-A2E0-4D31-B989-7448970841D9@roadrunner.com>
References: <56642.43229.qm@web120007.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<0A512BCC-A2E0-4D31-B989-7448970841D9@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <475587.82199.qm@web120019.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

thanks to all for help. always good as usual.
traced it to a kinked soft line
causing a short flow of fuel.
"on the road again" whooo hooo
frank
________________________________
From: Hans de Ferrante <tr3 at roadrunner.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, July 3, 2010 8:06:52 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 loss of power

On Jul 2, 2010, at 7:30 PM, Frank Fisher
wrote:

> long story...but here goes
> 
> couple months ago the tr3 lost
power. at one point
> it quit completely. got out pumped the primer on the
fuel pump. got in and it
> started and ran good. then it lost power again and
then it got it back, lost
> power.......got it back...etc. it limped and ran
and got me home.

That sounds almost exactly like what happened to me  with
my  TR3A. It had been in hibernation for 27 years before recent restoration.
Every time I thought I fixed it, it recurred, usually on the highway going
over 60 miles and tromping down on it. After pulling over and stopping it
would usually run o.k. again for a little while and I could limp home with it.
This was my sequence of events with the problem recurring  every time between:
1)    Replaced fuel tank, purged fuel lines, filters and rebuilt fuel pump.
2)    Found that the vacuum  piston was sticky at the top position in the bell
chamber of the  second SU carb -- Cleaned and polished the chamber wall.
3)    Found that the float chamber valve was stuck in the shut position of the
same carb --- replaced it.

4)    Found that the float chamber valve was stuck
in the open position of the same carb. Discovered that the spring loaded tip
of needle assembly had worn a     dimple in the float lever arm causing the
needle to misalign and jam ---- carefully sanded and polished the  lever to 
remove the dimple ---The needle seemed     to travel freely, now using the
same needle and seat.

5)    Found that the  same needle was  stuck again in
the closed     position and was sticky again. Everything was clean as a
whistle . I replaced it with  a  new seat and needle. I noticed that the
second seat and needle set did not fit as tightly as the first one. I bought
both of them simultaneously from Moss and I suspect that the quality control
of some of this aftermart stuff leaves something to be desired.

I have since
driven it for about 250 miles and it hasn't happened again,  but,  frankly, I
still don't  quite trust her enough yet for any longer trips.
I hope this may
help you fix your problem.

Hans
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From brad.kahler at 141.com  Sat Jul  3 19:13:27 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 21:13:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
In-Reply-To: <9BE7FDE986114D52AA3DA357A7113B71@BobPC>
References: <995697.49179.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<CB1B40A9-EA72-46F9-A664-95CE2DD39A43@comcast.net>
	<9BE7FDE986114D52AA3DA357A7113B71@BobPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTil-BxyrN2O6wIbsAmqikzYqjWjLc-66pa4vsmdN@mail.gmail.com>

The best part was when the Sheriff stopped by during the banquet and
served him with legal papers.  Great way to make a point :)




On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 7:48 PM, Bob Danielson
<75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:
> Bud............I had forgotten all about that little episode. And as I
> recall the guy was very active on the Mail List.............not so active
> after the "incident". It happened just before VTR in Portland Maine and Dan
> spent lots of time & $$$$$ getting the car fixed up for the trip. I don't
> think the guy even offered Dan and money at all for all the damage.
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 1:25 PM
> To: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
> Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] lending cars?
>
>> Ask Dan Masters how lending a car out worked for him...it didn't.   Dan,
>> one of the nicest southern gentlemen ever, loaned his TR6 to (and  the
list
>> will have to fill in the details) a French? man to drive  around the U.S.
>>  The guy proceeded to ruin a number of things on the  car but the worst
>> offense was trying to pry open the bonnet with a big  screwdriver.
>>
>>
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> levilevi at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jul  3 20:14:07 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 22:14:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Wedge] temp guage moving when lights turned on
Message-ID: <1f255.5a787d20.3961486f@cs.com>

This came to me but I think it was intended for the list.  Dave
Return-Path: <jat1127 at hotmail.com>
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From: john taylor <jat1127 at hotmail.com>
To: <dave1massey at cs.com>
Subject: RE: [Wedge] temp guage moving when lights turned on
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 21:44:51 -0400
Importance: Normal
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Hey,
 IMHO the very first thing to do is R&R the motor grounds. If the car has the
original braided strap it really needs to be replaced. I put a new ground on
each side of the motor and this problem went away and the motor started
better.

CHEERS
John

John Taylor
Greenfield, Ma
Gloucester, Ma
USA.

* ALWAYS BE SAFE *

Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first.






> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 16:10:06 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Wedge] temp guage moving when lights turned on
> To: tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu
>
> In a message dated 7/3/2010 12:33:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
> dan at thecarringtons.net writes:
> > An additional enhancement for this problem, is to add another ground path
> >
> > to the flexi circuit board behind the gauges.  Find a place where you can
> > add a wire on the ground path of this circuit board, but remember, you
> > can't solder to it!  It will melt!  (Sorry, I don't remember where I put
> > my
> > ground wire....)
> >
> >
>
> One of the two screws for the volt meter is gound.  But the other one is
> +12 volts and grounding that one will only make things worse so take great
> care in selecting the proper screw.
>
> Dave
> --
> Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests
> to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3=

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sat Jul  3 20:15:12 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 22:15:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] To feed or not to feed
In-Reply-To: <013701cb1b07$55372730$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946156@CMS01.winhosting.local>,
	<013701cb1b07$55372730$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94615B@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Thank you to John, Randall, Dave, Brad and Stan (so far) for the detailed
responses. I was convinced by the unanimous chorus of "Take it off" to pull
the external oiler.

I can understand that, at idle, the intake manifold is at full vacuum and is
just sucking very hard around the intake valve guides and pulling oil into the
combustion chamber.

Recently, as is my preferred method, I ran the engine with the valve cover off
and used my mechanical stethoscope to detect overly tight or loose valves and
adjust accordingly. I like being able to adjust the valves with the engine
running. While working, I noticed that the "pits" in which the lifters are set
were completely full of oil. It was just churning and splashing around in
there, too full to even drain properly. That does not seem right to me.

So, I just went to the garage, whisky in hand, and removed the offending
article. After that, I went for run a few Km up and down the road. It seems
that at idle now I see no smoke. Is that it: well we'll see. But it is
encouraging. If this works, SWMBO will be much less savage about the fumes.
So, this fix may be good for my ears as well as my nose; one can but hope!

Thanks again, oh massed minds!

Mark
1972 TR6

________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall [tr3driver at ca.rr.com]
Sent: July 3, 2010 7:27 PM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] To feed or not to feed

> So, I am guessing the solution is either to install valve
> stem seals, or to
> dump the oiling feed. Is there concensus/opinion on the list
> as to which way is best?

I don't know if it is the consensus, but my very definite opinion is to dump
the external feed!

I tried all the other approaches on a TR3 motor (nearly identical to the TR6
in this area), the final result was a broken piston.
http://tinyurl.com/25l899z

This was with both seals AND a restrictor installed (one of the seals came
apart).

Note that the rockers don't need very much oil (just as the original system
supplies).  As long as they get a few drops now and again, more oil won't
make them last any longer.  It is worthwhile checking every few years (maybe
every other time you adjust the valves) that oil is still slowly getting to
them.  If not, you can pull and clean the rocker shaft.  Excess sludge in
the shaft is the usual cause of lack of oil (although in my case, it
appeared that someone had installed the cam bearing wrong).

Randall

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sat Jul  3 20:28:36 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 22:28:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
Message-ID: <6c11a.58f44fb7.39614bd4@aol.com>

Hi Gary;
 
Sounds like you have a difficult decision to make. I think one thing to  
bear in mind is the distance and time the car will be borrowed/rented for. In  
2003, a good friend's dad was about to celebrate his 69th birthday, I 
think, at  a restaurant with friends and family. This good friend of ours told us 
about how  her dad always wanted to get his old TR3A back, which was black 
with red  interior. Mine's black with black interior, having been red 
originally, and our  friend asked if we could show up at the restaurant with the 
car.
 
We showed up, our friend's parents came out and started drooling over the  
car. I knew the insurance policy we had then would cover him, so I handed 
him  the keys and said "you two take it for a drive". I knew they wouldn't be 
gone  long because there were friends and family waiting for them back at 
the  restaurant. It had been probably 50 years since he'd driven a car like 
that, so  as far as I was concerned he was totally unfamiliar with it.
 
My point is that our cars, despite their age, are very durable. Although I  
knew this guy wouldn't abuse it, I also knew he'd likely be hard on the 
clutch  and possibly other components. Then again, I knew they wouldn't go much 
farther  than just around the block, and it was in a small village with 
hardly any  traffic.
 
So, if it were me making the decision, I'd take into consideration not only 
 insurance and how much you trusted the individual, but the probable 
distance  they'll go and the time they'll be in the car.
 
Good luck with the tough decision.
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sat Jul  3 20:38:23 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 22:38:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] To feed or not to feed
Message-ID: <6c55c.1a3ebc6c.39614e1f@aol.com>

That's a good one, Mark. Personally, I prefer to adjust the valves with the 
 engine NOT running. I find it's much easier to get the feeler gauge in, 
when the  engine is stationary....
 
All in good humour, of course.
 
In a message dated 7/3/2010 10:31:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes:

"I like  being able to adjust the valves with the  engine
running."

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Sat Jul  3 20:47:50 2010
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 19:47:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Speedo Cable ( what is the correct path for it to take
 from the OD unit to the Speedo)
In-Reply-To: <C332465A466A45F9810118019AADB489@CR.LOCAL>
References: <mailman.26364.1278073009.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<F0E8E62387824B5C9C3ECC86F44DAA16@robertlaptop>
	<AANLkTimW6HU8OYo8obXQluIvkRTbxLqJ9VroQQrgC9O0@mail.gmail.com>
	<C332465A466A45F9810118019AADB489@CR.LOCAL>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikk1cckQ1RemLiS71oRysKmhSg6SYwCxzh9iIQl@mail.gmail.com>

If memory serves, on my departed TR4 I ran the cable from the OD under the
RH floor to in front of the firewall, then under the clutch housing and up
to the usual hole in the firewall behind the dash.
John Howard

On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 10:25 AM, Tom Boggiano <boggiano at charter.net> wrote:

> Hi All
>
> Into the final stretch on the road to getting an inspection sticker.
>
> On the tr4 with OD transmission -  how is the speedo cable suppose to
> route?
>
>  From the OD unit it goes into the floor board on the right hand side of
>> the
>>
> car (passenger in the US). from there what is the proper route for it to
> take to get to the speedo?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tom
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sat Jul  3 21:11:10 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 23:11:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] To feed or not to feed
In-Reply-To: <6c55c.1a3ebc6c.39614e1f@aol.com>
References: <6c55c.1a3ebc6c.39614e1f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94615D@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Tim:

I agree, the engine should be stationary; just not the valves...

Seriously, with a bit of practice one can get a surprisingly accurate valve
setup with a 1/2" wrench, flat screwdriver and a stethoscope. No tapping = too
tight, pounding/clacking = too loose. You put the tip of the stethoscope probe
on the drilled hole at the centre of each rocker while adjusting each valve
warm. Tricky with two hands, a cinch with three. I've never had the same
results with a cold engine and feeler gauges.

I recall adjusting something on the the timing on a friend's X-19 engine while
it was driving. That's a mid-engine setup. There is a sort of hatch behind the
right-hand seat. So one could actually stick hands and head into engine
compartment while the car was moving. It wasn't so easy, as he kept revving
the engine and belting around corners and over bumps. At the end the car was
driving great; I wasn't doing so well though.

It's fun to fix things while they work. A little noise and parts whirling
about close to the fingers adds to the sense of the moment.

Cheers,

Mark

________________________________
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com [KingsCreekTrees at aol.com]
Sent: July 3, 2010 10:38 PM
To: Mark Hooper; tr3driver at ca.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] To feed or not to feed

That's a good one, Mark. Personally, I prefer to adjust the valves with the
engine NOT running. I find it's much easier to get the feeler gauge in, when
the engine is stationary....

All in good humour, of course.

In a message dated 7/3/2010 10:31:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes:
"I like being able to adjust the valves with the engine
running."
Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A 1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website:
www.kingscreektrees.com<http://www.kingscreektrees.com/>

Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture
professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa
Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the
Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario

From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca  Sat Jul  3 21:33:56 2010
From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (=?iso-8859-1?Q?TR6Qu=E9bec?=)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 23:33:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Decal instructions?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.26720.1278169560.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.26720.1278169560.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1F7D7E252B3D44E8ABBA816B9259DC65@robertlaptop>

Mark,

I've done it few months ago and it's in a bowl of water like in the good old 
time.....

Robert
TR6Quebec
----------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 21:49:29 -0400
> From: Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
> Subject: [TR] Decal instructions?
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID:
> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946154 at CMS01.winhosting.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hi all:
>
> A few years back I bought the decals for the turn signals and headlight 
> (Dim,
> flicker, off) switch on the TR6. that go on the plinths (covers really) of 
> the
> steering column. Finally getting to putting the things on.
>
> Do these things go on some special way? They don't appear to be peel off 
> and
> stick, so I assume they were the type you soak in a bowl of water for a 
> while.
> Has anybody done these recently?
>
> Mark
> 1972 TR6

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat Jul  3 22:06:33 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 22:06:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTil-BxyrN2O6wIbsAmqikzYqjWjLc-66pa4vsmdN@mail.gmail.com>
References: <995697.49179.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<CB1B40A9-EA72-46F9-A664-95CE2DD39A43@comcast.net>
	<9BE7FDE986114D52AA3DA357A7113B71@BobPC>
	<AANLkTil-BxyrN2O6wIbsAmqikzYqjWjLc-66pa4vsmdN@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <082BD1E9-D61A-4980-8B00-A25BC78C281A@comcast.net>

I'd forgotten the little visit by the sheriff at the banquet...that  
was funny.  Amazing he had the nerve to show up after trashing Dan's  
car and not paying anything.  Small wonder that he was shunned like an  
Amish boy with nipple rings.


Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jul 3, 2010, at 7:13 PM, Brad Kahler wrote:

> The best part was when the Sheriff stopped by during the banquet and
> served him with legal papers.  Great way to make a point :)
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 7:48 PM, Bob Danielson
> <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:
>> Bud............I had forgotten all about that little episode. And  
>> as I
>> recall the guy was very active on the Mail List.............not so  
>> active
>> after the "incident". It happened just before VTR in Portland Maine  
>> and Dan
>> spent lots of time & $$$$$ getting the car fixed up for the trip. I  
>> don't
>> think the guy even offered Dan and money at all for all the damage.
>>
>> Bob Danielson
>> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
>> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
>> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
>> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
>> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 1:25 PM
>> To: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
>> Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] lending cars?
>>
>>> Ask Dan Masters how lending a car out worked for him...it  
>>> didn't.   Dan,
>>> one of the nicest southern gentlemen ever, loaned his TR6 to (and   
>>> the list
>>> will have to fill in the details) a French? man to drive  around  
>>> the U.S.
>>>  The guy proceeded to ruin a number of things on the  car but the  
>>> worst
>>> offense was trying to pry open the bonnet with a big  screwdriver.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bud Rolofson
>>>
>>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>>> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
>>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>>> levilevi at comcast.net
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sun Jul  4 04:54:41 2010
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 05:54:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Speedo Cable ( what is the correct path for it to take
 from the OD unit to the Speedo)
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikk1cckQ1RemLiS71oRysKmhSg6SYwCxzh9iIQl@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.26364.1278073009.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	<F0E8E62387824B5C9C3ECC86F44DAA16@robertlaptop>,
	<AANLkTimW6HU8OYo8obXQluIvkRTbxLqJ9VroQQrgC9O0@mail.gmail.com>,
	<C332465A466A45F9810118019AADB489@CR.LOCAL>,
	<AANLkTikk1cckQ1RemLiS71oRysKmhSg6SYwCxzh9iIQl@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w122BA0A8A8C8D3894F8BF0B9B00@phx.gbl>

Tom-

>From there, it heads towards the engine bay, then in the engine bay it swings
over the top of the transmission, and then enters the bulkhead on the drivers
side.  At the very top of the transmission tunnel/bulkhead there should be a
clip holding the cable in place.  Its very tight there and a pain to add - on
my car I've not attached it and haven't had any issues.

Randy
64 TR4
59 TR3A

> >
> > On the tr4 with OD transmission -  how is the speedo cable suppose to
> > route?
> >
> >  From the OD unit it goes into the floor board on the right hand side of
> >> the
> >>


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
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http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Jul  4 10:31:02 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 09:31:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3a battery sizes
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4457@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<86BAD8BA27A84D62AAFCB98663689103@DCS78M81>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4457@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimQfYHM0fCKAcJPorPsZOBrduIVI3BbRNJVcXV5@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/3/10, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:
> Do you think it will look out of place?

I think that size will look good.  It's my smaller (group 24?) battery
that looks out of place to me.

FWIW, I think they look best with the posts nearer the firewall though
some brands have them midway along the sides of the battery rather
than at the corners.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Jul  4 10:54:01 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 09:54:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Decal instructions?
In-Reply-To: <1F7D7E252B3D44E8ABBA816B9259DC65@robertlaptop>
References: <mailman.26720.1278169560.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<1F7D7E252B3D44E8ABBA816B9259DC65@robertlaptop>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimLelOqCIjNW5nsHIU3vmLC6w4tBgNAaQIOC3yX@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/3/10, TR6Quibec <TR6Quebec at videotron.ca> wrote:
>
> I've done it few months ago and it's in a bowl of water like in the good
old
> time.....

And, IIRC, a drop of dishwashing soap in the water can help a bit.

Geo

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Jul  4 11:20:07 2010
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 13:20:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question on installing a Delco 7127 style alternator on a TR4A
Message-ID: <70E558371E47425685F9C5BEFCE3A930@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
I am in the process of installing a Delco 7127 alternator on my TR4A IRS and I
have a couple of questions. I realize these questions may have been answered
before but here goes and I apologize in advance for any repetition..
1. I am planning on using a  7 inch long 3/8 grade 8 bolt thru the bottom
"pivot bolt hole on the alternator which will allow me to run thru the front
of the alternator at the bottom, thru the front engine mounting plate, and
thru the stock generator mounting bracket with a small piece of pipe fit
inside the generator mounting bracket. This should give me a fairly stout
bottom mount.  Has anybody tried this? Does anybody know of a better way?
2. Where can I get a upper tension bracket that will work on this
installation? I have no idea where my original generator tensioning bracket
and I am not real sure if it would work anyway. I have seen some installations
that have a chrome or stainless steel bracket which would be my preference but
anything that works will be OK.

Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 Triumph TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From pfullam at nycap.rr.com  Sun Jul  4 13:14:02 2010
From: pfullam at nycap.rr.com (Peter)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 15:14:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question on installing a Delco 7127 style alternator on a
 TR4A
In-Reply-To: <70E558371E47425685F9C5BEFCE3A930@DaveLaptop>
References: <70E558371E47425685F9C5BEFCE3A930@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <000001cb1bad$109cba30$31d62e90$@rr.com>

Hi Dave,

I installed a GM 10SI alternator in my TR4 a couple of years ago. I used
exactly the method you described for the bottom mount, i.e. the long bolt
and spacer thru the generator mounting bracket. For the upper tension
bracket I used the original TR bracket. I hammered out most of the offset to
make the bracket line up with the upper mount on the alternator. The whole
setup, including the switch to negative ground, has been pretty much
bulletproof.

Best of Luck,

Pete Fullam
CT19207L (o)

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 1:20 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Question on installing a Delco 7127 style alternator on a TR4A

Hi List,
I am in the process of installing a Delco 7127 alternator on my TR4A IRS and
I
have a couple of questions. I realize these questions may have been answered
before but here goes and I apologize in advance for any repetition..
1. I am planning on using a  7 inch long 3/8 grade 8 bolt thru the bottom
"pivot bolt hole on the alternator which will allow me to run thru the front
of the alternator at the bottom, thru the front engine mounting plate, and
thru the stock generator mounting bracket with a small piece of pipe fit
inside the generator mounting bracket. This should give me a fairly stout
bottom mount.  Has anybody tried this? Does anybody know of a better way?
2. Where can I get a upper tension bracket that will work on this
installation? I have no idea where my original generator tensioning bracket
and I am not real sure if it would work anyway. I have seen some
installations
that have a chrome or stainless steel bracket which would be my preference
but
anything that works will be OK.

Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 Triumph TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pfullam at nycap.rr.com

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Sun Jul  4 13:30:41 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 15:30:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR7 engines & 5-speed transmissions - for sale
Message-ID: <AANLkTik33QRm1Z3Qyxqb1_LTZvUWei01FKZfePPtMo5z@mail.gmail.com>

I have two 5-speed TR7 transmissions available and two TR7 parts engines.

Located in Richmond, Kentucky

Make an offer if interested.

Brad

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  4 15:30:56 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 14:30:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Question on installing a Delco 7127 style alternator on a
 TR4A
In-Reply-To: <70E558371E47425685F9C5BEFCE3A930@DaveLaptop>
References: <70E558371E47425685F9C5BEFCE3A930@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <029401cb1bc0$308e6420$0301a8c0@randall>

> 1. I am planning on using a  7 inch long 3/8 grade 8 bolt 
> thru the bottom
> "pivot bolt hole on the alternator which will allow me to run 

That's the way I did mine, and it worked out fairly well.  Only downside was
that the big bolt had to be taken loose to install a new belt.

Also, with my Ford Motorcraft alternator, I had to cut down it's mounting
foot, to get the pulleys to line up properly.  No big deal, but when it
finally wore out, I had to either cut the new one or transfer the old front
housing to it (which is what I did).

> 2. Where can I get a upper tension bracket that will work on this
> installation?

Check any "speed shop", they usually carry a variety of such items in chrome
plate.  I used the original, flattened to fit.

Randall

From davidt at opentext.com  Sun Jul  4 19:45:05 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 21:45:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3a battery sizes
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimQfYHM0fCKAcJPorPsZOBrduIVI3BbRNJVcXV5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><86BAD8BA27A84D62AAFCB98663689103@DCS78M81><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4457@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<AANLkTimQfYHM0fCKAcJPorPsZOBrduIVI3BbRNJVcXV5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4462@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Ok that is my thought, need to double check the size but at 20% off the
regular price may be a definite purchase :-)

David

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 12:31 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3a battery sizes

On 7/3/10, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:
> Do you think it will look out of place?

I think that size will look good.  It's my smaller (group 24?) battery
that looks out of place to me.

FWIW, I think they look best with the posts nearer the firewall though
some brands have them midway along the sides of the battery rather
than at the corners.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt at opentext.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul  4 20:19:10 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 22:19:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Gas strut boot lift
Message-ID: <4f0ba.3d6ec8df.39629b1e@cs.com>

I took a quick look at the TR6 trying to fit a TR7/8 gas strut and the 
short answer is it won't work without fabricating brackets and what not.  To 
work with the existing prop rod a cylinder that colapses to about 10 1/2 inches 
(267 mm).  If it extends to about 18 inches (450 mm) we will have a roughly 
equivalent opening.

Step 2: searching for the appropriate cylinder.

Dave

From davidt at opentext.com  Sun Jul  4 20:36:21 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 22:36:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3a battery sizes
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimQfYHM0fCKAcJPorPsZOBrduIVI3BbRNJVcXV5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><86BAD8BA27A84D62AAFCB98663689103@DCS78M81><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4457@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<AANLkTimQfYHM0fCKAcJPorPsZOBrduIVI3BbRNJVcXV5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4463@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Forgot to say, yes the terminals are in the middle.  Not a big deal and
perfect for changing to -ve ground :-)

David

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 12:31 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3a battery sizes

On 7/3/10, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:
> Do you think it will look out of place?

I think that size will look good.  It's my smaller (group 24?) battery
that looks out of place to me.

FWIW, I think they look best with the posts nearer the firewall though
some brands have them midway along the sides of the battery rather
than at the corners.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt at opentext.com

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sun Jul  4 20:46:21 2010
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 21:46:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Question on installing a Delco 7127 style alternator on a
 TR4A
In-Reply-To: <70E558371E47425685F9C5BEFCE3A930@DaveLaptop>
References: <70E558371E47425685F9C5BEFCE3A930@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w4195C20254D0A43540A592B9B10@phx.gbl>

I did a slight variation to this which has worked out well.  The 3/8" bolt
does not pass through the rear tab of the original bracket without widening
it, so I bought a 5/16x3/8 reducing coupling and used it with a 3/8 bolt and a
5/15 bolt and didn't need to modify anything.  I had the original tensioner
and could use that too with no modification but I had to shim it out by about
1/4" to get it to work.  Used a spare front suspension stop lock for that
which worked out great!

Randy
64 TR4
59 TR3A


> 1. I am planning on using a  7 inch long 3/8 grade 8 bolt thru the bottom
> "pivot bolt hole on the alternator which will allow me to run thru the
front
> of the alternator at the bottom, thru the front engine mounting plate, and
> thru the stock generator mounting bracket with a small piece of pipe fit
> inside the generator mounting bracket. This should give me a fairly stout
> bottom mount.  Has anybody tried this? Does anybody know of a better way?


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun Jul  4 22:12:45 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 00:12:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] DIN Radio in TR4
Message-ID: <AANLkTilyFsmeNqkw-lxG8xqrn4ko89J8NXP9qr54vyQk@mail.gmail.com>

I  made a slighty wider radio mount for the TR4.   Wanted to make sure I had
some beef remaining after widening the hole for the radio.

I thought I had posted this earlier, but after talking to an old friend
today (you know who you are)  - I realized I never posted the link.

It turned out well and I can plug my iPhone into the stereo!

http://projectsgardentriumph.blogspot.com/2009/03/radio-mount-for-triumph-tr4.html

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Jul  5 07:20:55 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 09:20:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3a vacuum line
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4463@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><86BAD8BA27A84D62AAFCB98663689103@DCS78M81><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4457@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<AANLkTimQfYHM0fCKAcJPorPsZOBrduIVI3BbRNJVcXV5@mail.gmail.com>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4463@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <F1963CAE414D444FB360AC42710FF97F@CarlPC>

Does anyone know of a source for replacement vacuum line

Late TR3A
screw type connections

at the distributor:  8mm w/1mm thread nut
at carburettors: 7mm w/1mm female end

I have the 7mm fitting that was in the carb housing but might as well 
replace both if I can find them.

What diameter is the tubing.  it appears to be about 1/8 od but since the 
fittings are metric - it might be a metric size tube.

Also - what length.   I figured at max a length equivalent to the fuel line 
from near the distributor to the connection at the carb.

Thanks
C

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Jul  5 11:06:03 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 13:06:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tires and Rims
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><86BAD8BA27A84D62AAFCB98663689103@DCS78M81><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4457@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><AANLkTimQfYHM0fCKAcJPorPsZOBrduIVI3BbRNJVcXV5@mail.gmail.com><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4463@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<F1963CAE414D444FB360AC42710FF97F@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <5C7F8DA9DCC8486CB6935E9A9E3C7429@Edscomputer>

List,

Wasn't there a List discussion at one time concerning the use of a tubeless 
tire on a rim that was originally intended for use with a tube? ISTR that 
such a rim could be safely used with a tubeless tire. Correct?

Ed Woods 

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Jul  5 11:30:56 2010
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 13:30:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3a vacuum line
In-Reply-To: <F1963CAE414D444FB360AC42710FF97F@CarlPC>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><86BAD8BA27A84D62AAFCB98663689103@DCS78M81><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4457@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<AANLkTimQfYHM0fCKAcJPorPsZOBrduIVI3BbRNJVcXV5@mail.gmail.com>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4463@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<F1963CAE414D444FB360AC42710FF97F@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <4C3216D0.3020602@uga.edu>

  Folks,

Its been too long since I had physics, but does the size of the vacuum 
line really matter once the vacuum is present?  Just a curiosity question.

Thanks

Doug

On 7/5/2010 9:20 AM, Carl TR wrote:
> Does anyone know of a source for replacement vacuum line
>
> Late TR3A
> screw type connections
>
> at the distributor:  8mm w/1mm thread nut
> at carburettors: 7mm w/1mm female end
>
> I have the 7mm fitting that was in the carb housing but might as well
> replace both if I can find them.
>
> What diameter is the tubing.  it appears to be about 1/8 od but since the
> fittings are metric - it might be a metric size tube.
>
> Also - what length.   I figured at max a length equivalent to the fuel line
> from near the distributor to the connection at the carb.
>
> Thanks
> C
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mathews at uga.edu

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul  5 13:13:29 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 12:13:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3a vacuum line
In-Reply-To: <4C3216D0.3020602@uga.edu>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><86BAD8BA27A84D62AAFCB98663689103@DCS78M81><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4457@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><AANLkTimQfYHM0fCKAcJPorPsZOBrduIVI3BbRNJVcXV5@mail.gmail.com><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4463@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><F1963CAE414D444FB360AC42710FF97F@CarlPC>
	<4C3216D0.3020602@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <03d401cb1c76$27811240$0301a8c0@randall>

> Its been too long since I had physics, but does the size of 
> the vacuum 
> line really matter once the vacuum is present?  Just a 
> curiosity question.

It could make a difference, in terms of how quickly the diaphragm moves
under changing conditions.  Some cars actually have deliberate restrictions
(although no Triumphs that I know of).

But in this case, the only concern is having the line mate with the
fittings.  Since a TR3A uses compression fittings at both ends of the vacuum
line, the OD of the line has to be within a fairly small range for the
compression ferrule to seal to it.

My recollection is that 1/8" copper works fine; but I also don't think the
fittings are metric.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul  5 13:20:55 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 12:20:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tires and Rims
In-Reply-To: <5C7F8DA9DCC8486CB6935E9A9E3C7429@Edscomputer>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><86BAD8BA27A84D62AAFCB98663689103@DCS78M81><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4457@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><AANLkTimQfYHM0fCKAcJPorPsZOBrduIVI3BbRNJVcXV5@mail.gmail.com><A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4463@OTWLMX04.opentext.net><F1963CAE414D444FB360AC42710FF97F@CarlPC>
	<5C7F8DA9DCC8486CB6935E9A9E3C7429@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <03d801cb1c77$316cc910$0301a8c0@randall>

> Wasn't there a List discussion at one time concerning the use 
> of a tubeless 
> tire on a rim that was originally intended for use with a 
> tube? ISTR that 
> such a rim could be safely used with a tubeless tire. Correct?

There has been lots of discussion on that point over the years.  The issue
involves the lack of "safety beads", which were added to many car wheels at
about the same time as the transition from tube to tubeless tires.  In
theory, the beads help keep the tire from coming off the rim after a total
loss of pressure.

But IMO, using a tubeless tire (without a tube) on a rim without safety
beads is no worse (and possibly even better) than using a tube-type tire on
it.  The beads only help a little, to prevent a situation that is unlikely
to arise with our cars; plus tubeless tires are much less prone to a sudden
loss of pressure (blowout) than tubed tires are. 

But I wouldn't put them on a Ford Explorer <G>

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Jul  5 13:47:06 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 15:47:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3a vacuum line
In-Reply-To: <F1963CAE414D444FB360AC42710FF97F@CarlPC>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4463@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<F1963CAE414D444FB360AC42710FF97F@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <201007051547.07224.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday, July 05, 2010 09:20:55 am Carl TR wrote:
> Does anyone know of a source for replacement vacuum line
> 
> Late TR3A
> screw type connections
> 
> at the distributor:  8mm w/1mm thread nut
> at carburettors: 7mm w/1mm female end
> 
> I have the 7mm fitting that was in the carb housing but might as well
> replace both if I can find them.
> 
> What diameter is the tubing.  it appears to be about 1/8 od but since the
> fittings are metric - it might be a metric size tube.
> 
> Also - what length.   I figured at max a length equivalent to the fuel line
> from near the distributor to the connection at the carb.
> 
> Thanks
> C
> 
Carl,

I bought one from Moss for my 4 a few years back. It is the same as on the 3 
but the tube is copper and the fittings are brass. Fit was perfect and looks 
nice polished up with Brasso.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29171#top

Part # 23 on the page: 371-960

Bob

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Jul  5 14:34:17 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 15:34:17 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3a vacuum line
Message-ID: <1116460751.177085.1278362057543.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>

I took the distributor and the male end I took out of the carb to NAPA.  They had sae type fittings but none worked.  He got out a metric screw sizer and that is what worked.  8/1 & 7/1.   Of course they didn't have any....  He also said to get the line where I get the fittings as they will be different metric vs other.

Moss does have them in their catalog.  

C


Jul 5, 2010 08:14:14 PM, tr3driver at ca.rr.com wrote:

> Its been too long since I had physics, but does the size of 
> the vacuum 
> line really matter once the vacuum is present? Just a 
> curiosity question.

It could make a difference, in terms of how quickly the diaphragm moves
under changing conditions. Some cars actually have deliberate restrictions
(although no Triumphs that I know of).

But in this case, the only concern is having the line mate with the
fittings. Since a TR3A uses compression fittings at both ends of the vacuum
line, the OD of the line has to be within a fairly small range for the
compression ferrule to seal to it.

My recollection is that 1/8" copper works fine; but I also don't think the
fittings are metric.

Randall

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Jul  5 15:28:27 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 16:28:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Offered for sale -- TR3 red/black medallion with "TRIUMPH" on
 shield
Message-ID: <2147167684.178407.1278365307490.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>

Going through the parts pile and I found an early TR3 medallion - Red/Black with "TRIUMPH" on the shield.
I was going to list on eBay but thought I would bring it here first.
Will list on eBay @ $155 includes US flat rate small box insured shipping - sell new at Moss (601-135) for $170; TRF 604272) @ $180 (rounded) plus shipping.  
Since I won't have to pay eBay fees:  first $145 gets it.  International shipping additional and will be based on difference of USPS flat rate small box rates (i.e. Canada = ~$7 more; UK/Australia = ~$9 more; ).    
 
This is a concours quality medallion for early TR3 (through 1957/TS22000)
Images at: http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/id11.html  (copy/paste into your browser)

Carl

From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca  Mon Jul  5 16:37:23 2010
From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (=?iso-8859-1?Q?TR6Qu=E9bec?=)
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 18:37:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Gas strut boot lift
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1278352802.20169.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1278352802.20169.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F0062C4765A7426FB93F7C6B570EF9BE@robertlaptop>

Thank you Dave,

I will proceed with Step 2.....and keep you posted..

Robert
TR6Quebec

> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 22:19:10 EDT
> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> Subject: [TR] Gas strut boot lift
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <4f0ba.3d6ec8df.39629b1e at cs.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I took a quick look at the TR6 trying to fit a TR7/8 gas strut and the
> short answer is it won't work without fabricating brackets and what not. 
> To
> work with the existing prop rod a cylinder that colapses to about 10 1/2 
> inches
> (267 mm).  If it extends to about 18 inches (450 mm) we will have a 
> roughly
> equivalent opening.
>
> Step 2: searching for the appropriate cylinder.
>
> Dave
>
>
> ------------------------------

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Jul  5 20:41:32 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon,  5 Jul 2010 20:41:32 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] ATT Troubles
Message-ID: <20100706024132.46B3C2E0CB@bradakis.com>

Those of you who have email that gets routed in various ways through
AT&T, like att.net, sbcglobal.net, pacbell, etc. Have most likely not
seen any Team.Net email for a few days.

For some reason AT&T was blocking Team.Net.  I have no idea why, what
started it, and you folks don't pay me enough to waste a day on the
phone sifting through an endless stream of clueless "tech support"
drones to find out why.

I have gotten the block removed and am in the process of getting
the effected addresses back into normal operation.  Thank you for
your patience.

mjb.

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue Jul  6 07:40:36 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 09:40:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop Glass
Message-ID: <62fb5.13303d73.39648c54@aol.com>

Hi List......hope I'm not violating a protocol here.  I'm not a big  eBay 
seller but I came across a pair of new, OEM rear side glass panels for a  TR6 
hardtop and am selling them on eBay.  OEM parts are rare and I  hate to see 
them sit in my garage for (hopefully!) more years and eventually  become 
part of an estate sale when someone in our hobby could use them  now.
 
Cheers,
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Jul  6 09:16:13 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 15:16:13 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop Glass
In-Reply-To: <62fb5.13303d73.39648c54@aol.com>
References: <62fb5.13303d73.39648c54@aol.com>
Message-ID: <527679.46095.qm@web28311.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Chip, let the protocols take a running jump! If you can help out someone with
something they need and make an acceptable profit for yourself to help drive
down the cost of Triumph ownership, I'd be the first to applaud you :)

Jonmac
________________________________
From: "Chip19474 at aol.com" <Chip19474 at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 6 July, 2010 14:40:36
Subject: [TR] TR6
Hardtop Glass

Hi List......hope I'm not violating a protocol here.  I'm not a
big  eBay 
seller but I came across a pair of new, OEM rear side glass panels
for a  TR6 
hardtop and am selling them on eBay.  OEM parts are rare and I 
hate to see 
them sit in my garage for (hopefully!) more years and eventually 
become 
part of an estate sale when someone in our hobby could use them  now.
Cheers,

Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6 
CF57822U

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue Jul  6 10:08:23 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 12:08:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mayflower remains
Message-ID: <AANLkTikRrXzeq3ZeE2T8MzzODVucLROagwpwGusVFX3E@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

I have the remains of a 1952 Mayflower sitting on a trailer looking
for a new home.  This is probably the rustiest Triumph you'll ever run
across and is mostly just a rusty hulk with a drive train.  I'm hoping
someone would be interested in it for its remaining parts.

Contact me off list if interested.

Brad

From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Jul  6 10:10:44 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 11:10:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94615D@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <6c55c.1a3ebc6c.39614e1f@aol.com>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94615D@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <B58AB17F90B24339AEA54D7D7BA292F1@ranteer.local>

what's the feeling in terms of desireability and value of an irs car vs a 
solid axle car? 

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Tue Jul  6 11:13:12 2010
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 18:13:12 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS
In-Reply-To: <B58AB17F90B24339AEA54D7D7BA292F1@ranteer.local>
References: <6c55c.1a3ebc6c.39614e1f@aol.com><7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94615D@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<B58AB17F90B24339AEA54D7D7BA292F1@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <570D5D7E9BA849D2BD8D82A09E448C30@AdrianPC>

It depends on where in the world you are situated.

Here in UK the solid axle car was never sold at all, therefore if you have 
one, as I have, the value is reduced by 10% or more because it is an import. 
This does not bother me because I do not want to sell it.

However, if you have the right car for sale and someone wants to buy then I 
should say you name your price and the buyer says yes or no simple as that.

Performance wise I would say the IRS is better but that was not the 
question.

Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64309 LO

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 5:10 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS


> what's the feeling in terms of desireability and value of an irs car vs a
> solid axle car?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2984 - Release Date: 07/05/10 
19:36:00

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 11:16:52 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 10:16:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3a vacuum line
In-Reply-To: <201007051547.07224.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4456@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4463@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<F1963CAE414D444FB360AC42710FF97F@CarlPC>
	<201007051547.07224.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4C336504.2030901@gmail.com>

On 7/5/10 12:47 PM, Bob wrote:
> I bought one from Moss for my 4 a few years back. It is the same as on the 3
> but the tube is copper and the fittings are brass. Fit was perfect and looks
> nice polished up with Brasso.
>    
You need to keep an eye on brass vacuum lines.  They fatigue and break 
off right at the end connector because of the engine vibration.  The key 
is to support the lines and not have a long length hanging.  Since they 
break at the connector I used to carry a spare ferrel  or two and have 
the tubes long enough that I could just reconnect it.

I finally went to rubber hoses for longer term reliability.

Teriann

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul  6 11:45:17 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 13:45:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS
Message-ID: <e51d0.3e17a85d.3964c5ad@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/6/2010 11:59:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 
dave at ranteer.com writes: 
> what's the feeling in terms of desireability and value of an irs car vs a 
> 
> solid axle car? 
> 

Personal preference, I think.  Some prefer the solid axle for it's 
predictability, others prefer the nimbleness of the IRS.

But consider this: TR4A - TR6: IRS, MGB: Solid axle.





Just kidding.

Dave

From ebartle at hbci.com  Tue Jul  6 12:49:36 2010
From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 13:49:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas smell
Message-ID: <20100706134936.15974pwfcmmxk0xs@mail.hbci.com>

I have a TR3A that has been restored. When I have the car in the  
garage there is a distinct gas odor and I cannot locate where it is  
coming from.

Any suggestions?

Eric

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Tue Jul  6 13:22:04 2010
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 20:22:04 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS
In-Reply-To: <e51d0.3e17a85d.3964c5ad@cs.com>
References: <e51d0.3e17a85d.3964c5ad@cs.com>
Message-ID: <FC519DE30D5545F69252FAE47958BC9E@AdrianPC>

Such profanity MGB!!!
Therein lies another vehicle platform of antiquated suspension from the 
parts bin mostly developed before
World War 2 or just after.
Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64306 0
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS


> In a message dated 7/6/2010 11:59:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
> dave at ranteer.com writes:
>> what's the feeling in terms of desireability and value of an irs car vs a
>>
>> solid axle car?
>>
>
> Personal preference, I think.  Some prefer the solid axle for it's
> predictability, others prefer the nimbleness of the IRS.
>
> But consider this: TR4A - TR6: IRS, MGB: Solid axle.
>
>
>
>
>
> Just kidding.
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2985 - Release Date: 07/06/10 
07:36:00

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul  6 14:02:05 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 13:02:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Gas smell
In-Reply-To: <20100706134936.15974pwfcmmxk0xs@mail.hbci.com>
References: <20100706134936.15974pwfcmmxk0xs@mail.hbci.com>
Message-ID: <056d01cb1d46$1bb34200$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have a TR3A that has been restored. When I have the car in the  
> garage there is a distinct gas odor and I cannot locate where it is  
> coming from.
> 
> Any suggestions?

After driving the car, then parking overnight, raise the bonnet and touch
your finger to the bottom of each carb jet, plus the bottom of the bolts
that hold the float bowls to the carb body.  If your finger comes away
smelling like gasoline, the associated seal is leaking even if not fast
enough to drip.

However, with both the fuel tank and both carbs vented to the atmosphere,
there may always be some trace of fuel smell after being kept in a closed
garage.  Better garage ventilation and/or adding a vapor recovery system to
the car may be the only solution.

One other thing, if you are putting the car away with a full tank of gas,
the factory tank vent can sometimes dump fuel on the floor in hot weather.
I blocked mine off after discovering that it was also dumping fuel in left
turns.

Randall

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul  6 14:09:42 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 13:09:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Gas smell
In-Reply-To: <20100706134936.15974pwfcmmxk0xs@mail.hbci.com>
References: <20100706134936.15974pwfcmmxk0xs@mail.hbci.com>
Message-ID: <94086.56310.qm@web120013.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Eric
i get the same gas smell. more so when i have a full tank of gas.
and
when i have a full tank i smell gas when driving.
i think the culprit is my
gas tank overflow pipe that likes to spit out a little gas on left turns when
the tank is full. i figure its guilty of stinking up my garage occasionally
also.
mine is not all the time, just when i have a full tank.
Frank
________________________________
From: Eric Bartleson <ebartle at hbci.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, July 6, 2010 11:49:36 AM
Subject: [TR] Gas
smell

I have a TR3A that has been restored. When I have the car in the garage
there is a distinct gas odor and I cannot locate where it is coming from.

Any
suggestions?

Eric

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From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com  Tue Jul  6 14:15:09 2010
From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 16:15:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Poor idle once TR4A  is warm.
Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C24252722393A21@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>

My 66 TR4A starts and runs great through all gears with no hesitation or lack
of power from 0 to 90.
After about 20 minutes however the idle will drop down to approx 600 RPM and
eventually stall out. (Idle when cold is approx 850)
To remedy this I have been giving a < inch of choke when stopped or just
running lights. Either solution is not optimal.
Where should I begin to troubleshoot?


Thank you

Peter

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Tue Jul  6 14:46:41 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 16:46:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS
Message-ID: <bef7d.265bffdd.3964f031@aol.com>

Having grown up in the UK, I didn't know that a TR4A without IRS existed  
until I moved to North America. I've talked to many, many individuals about 
this  and the conclusion I have drawn is that, in general and with a few 
exceptions,  the racers prefer the non-IRS because the cars are a little quicker 
on the  circuit. The road-users prefer the IRS for ride comfort and  
predictability.
 
Naturally, the IRS is slightly more complicated and is therefore likely to  
cost slightly more in maintenance.
 
So, it's down to personal preference and I don't think there'd be any  
difference in vehicle value in North America.
 
Tim, TR3A TS22930LO
 
Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Jul  6 15:00:04 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 16:00:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4a_-_solid_axle_vs_IRS?=
Message-ID: <20100706205857.EA502187665@autox.team.net>

We used to say there was a rump for every seat. Get what you want. If you are buying merely for collective value, may I suggest another mark?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dixie4" <dixie4.wales at virgin.net>
Date: Tue, Jul 6, 2010 12:13
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS
To: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>

It depends on where in the world you are situated.

Here in UK the solid axle car was never sold at all, therefore if you have one, as I have, the value is reduced by 10% or more because it is an import. This does not bother me because I do not want to sell it.

However, if you have the right car for sale and someone wants to buy then I should say you name your price and the buyer says yes or no simple as that.

Performance wise I would say the IRS is better but that was not the question.

Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64309 LO

----- Original Message ----- From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 5:10 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS


> what's the feeling in terms of desireability and value of an irs car vs a
> solid axle car?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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> Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue Jul  6 15:02:41 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 17:02:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 in 4th of July Parade
Message-ID: <1cae4.5f7dab0f.3964f3f1@aol.com>

Well, I hadn't done this in awhile but I relented and ran my TR6 in our  
village's 4th of July parade on Sunday.  Lot's of crepe paper and American  
flags so as not to draw attention to it's origins and possibly promote  
unpatriotic hoots from the onlookers!
 
I was one of probably 50 assorted antiques including a gigantic Buick  
Roadmaster convertible filled with Wizard of Oz people.  We did the usual  
thing.....toss out candy and beads to the kids, wave to folks, tell them it  
wasn't an MG, etc but man was it hot!  Way too hot (upper 90's - full sun -  
less than 1 mph) for many of the cars who bailed out along the route.  I  
managed to keep the temp needle between half and 3/4 reading by opening the hood  
to safety latch position, turning the heater on full blast and keeping the 
revs  between 1500 and 1800 rpm......it really wasn't as much fun as I 
thought it  would be so maybe next year I'm going to have to set a maximum 
outside air  temperature of something like 70 degrees or I'll go back to being a 
bystander  with our grandson and handing out cold water to the 80 year old 
guys driving the  old Buicks:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Jul  6 15:03:30 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 16:03:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4a_-_solid_axle_vs_IRS?=
Message-ID: <20100706210224.81A6C187665@autox.team.net>

Well, if you get rid of those splined driveshafts and mod it to cvj s you have something that works. 
You may remember how many championships the irs tr4s won...vs. the old coal carts. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Date: Tue, Jul 6, 2010 12:45
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

In a message dated 7/6/2010 11:59:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 
dave at ranteer.com writes: 
> what's the feeling in terms of desireability and value of an irs car vs a 
> 
> solid axle car? 
> 

Personal preference, I think.  Some prefer the solid axle for it's 
predictability, others prefer the nimbleness of the IRS.

But consider this: TR4A - TR6: IRS, MGB: Solid axle.





Just kidding.

Dave

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From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Jul  6 15:05:29 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 16:05:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4a_-_solid_axle_vs_IRS?=
Message-ID: <20100706210423.1AB04187665@autox.team.net>

That won a load of national championships on the track. And sold about a half million units.....
What a piece of junk!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dixie4" <dixie4.wales at virgin.net>
Date: Tue, Jul 6, 2010 14:22
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS
To: <Dave1massey at cs.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Such profanity MGB!!!
Therein lies another vehicle platform of antiquated suspension from the parts bin mostly developed before
World War 2 or just after.
Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64306 0
----- Original Message ----- From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS


> In a message dated 7/6/2010 11:59:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
> dave at ranteer.com writes:
>> what's the feeling in terms of desireability and value of an irs car vs a
>>
>> solid axle car?
>>
>
> Personal preference, I think.  Some prefer the solid axle for it's
> predictability, others prefer the nimbleness of the IRS.
>
> But consider this: TR4A - TR6: IRS, MGB: Solid axle.
>
>
>
>
>
> Just kidding.
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2985 - Release Date: 07/06/10 07:36:00

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Jul  6 15:53:13 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 21:53:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Gas smell
In-Reply-To: <94086.56310.qm@web120013.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1042981992.158918.1278453193606.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I have a TR3A that has been restored. When I have the car in the garage
>there is a distinct gas odor and I cannot locate where it is coming from.

>Any suggestions?

Eric, while it is an extremely quick solution to finding the source of your solution, may I recommend against the lighted matrch solution?  I say this from an experience when as an 8 year old boy I tried to accelerate a woodstove with the few drops left in the bottom of a 5 gallon gas can.

Just my two cents worth.

P.S.  My eyebrows grew back.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Tue Jul  6 19:00:41 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 20:00:41 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Gas smell
Message-ID: <1309761471.232299.1278464441135.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>

I would really advise this as a bad solution myself.  I have been looking for a gas smell ever since I bought by 72 Triumph TR6 from the original owner.  If I ever figure out what it is, I will let you know.

Craig
1972 Triumph T6

On Jul 6, 2010, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: 

>I have a TR3A that has been restored. When I have the car in the garage
>there is a distinct gas odor and I cannot locate where it is coming from.

>Any suggestions?

Eric, while it is an extremely quick solution to finding the source of your solution, may I recommend against the lighted matrch solution? I say this from an experience when as an 8 year old boy I tried to accelerate a woodstove with the few drops left in the bottom of a 5 gallon gas can.

Just my two cents worth.

P.S. My eyebrows grew back.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

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From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Tue Jul  6 20:02:26 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 19:02:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Poor idle once TR4A  is warm.
In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C24252722393A21@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C24252722393A21@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
Message-ID: <002101cb1d78$72e23720$58a6a560$@rr.com>

Hmm ... could be a few things. The problem is more than likely fuel related.
You didn't say what type of carb you have. Stromberg's, SU's, Webers,
Mikuni's, etc. That's helpful in diagnosing a failure. Also, I've seen
sticky linkage issues cause this. Have you sprayed around the manifolds for
leaks? Vacuum leaks can cause this.

On the electrical side, have you done any mods to the vacuum advance? Is it
a stock dizzy using points or something else?

Curious minds need to know.

Johnnie


> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dachnowicz, Peter
> Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 1:15 PM
> To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net'
> Subject: [TR] Poor idle once TR4A is warm.
> 
> My 66 TR4A starts and runs great through all gears with no hesitation
> or lack
> of power from 0 to 90.
> After about 20 minutes however the idle will drop down to approx 600
> RPM and
> eventually stall out. (Idle when cold is approx 850)
> To remedy this I have been giving a < inch of choke when stopped or
> just
> running lights. Either solution is not optimal.
> Where should I begin to troubleshoot?
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Peter
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdonnel1 at san.rr.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Jul  8 09:17:36 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 10:17:36 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Offered for sale -- TR3 red/black medallion with "TRIUMPH"
 on shield
Message-ID: <1892547134.299196.1278602256199.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>

I had a couple inquiries but nothing final.  I am going to hold onto it for awhile - maybe bring it to VTR/NATC in October.

Jul 5, 2010 09:28:27 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

Going through the parts pile and I found an early TR3 medallion - Red/Black with "TRIUMPH" on the shield.
I was going to list on eBay but thought I would bring it here first.
Will list on eBay @ $155 includes US flat rate small box insured shipping - sell new at Moss (601-135) for $170; TRF 604272) @ $180 (rounded) plus shipping. 
Since I won't have to pay eBay fees: first $145 gets it. International shipping additional and will be based on difference of USPS flat rate small box rates (i.e. Canada = ~$7 more; UK/Australia = ~$9 more; ). 

This is a concours quality medallion for early TR3 (through 1957/TS22000)
Images at: http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/id11.html (copy/paste into your browser)

Carl

From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul  8 09:35:14 2010
From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (Rod)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 08:35:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] test
Message-ID: <4C35F032.9030902@sbcglobal.net>

testing,

From cartr4a at ameritech.net  Thu Jul  8 09:59:54 2010
From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 08:59:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] test
In-Reply-To: <4C35F032.9030902@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <227320.68045.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Got your test, but it's the only email from the list I've received in a week.

--- On Thu, 7/8/10, Rod <rgt2 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:


From: Rod <rgt2 at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [TR] test
To: TRIUMPHS at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, July 8, 2010, 10:35 AM


testing,

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Jul  8 10:07:34 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 12:07:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Four TR magnesium wheels for sale/trade
Message-ID: <AANLkTimaIO8LAa17OR3rB4QWNN_vOwEKAE1C_XN0eDZ7@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

I have a set of four magnesium 15" wheels (probably American Racing
Silverstones) for sale or trade.

If interested contact me off list for details.

Thanks,

Brad

From agraham at execulink.com  Thu Jul  8 10:08:43 2010
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 12:08:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 rad cap pressure
Message-ID: <4C35F80B.7040609@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Seems to have been quiet on the list the last couple of days. Wondering 
about rad cap pressures for the 2/3 engines. My '2 came with a 7lb. cap. 
I thought they were supposed to run a lower pressure cap. Any thoughts? 
Am I OK with the 7lb. cap? I have a couple of good long reach 7 lb. 
caps, so wondering if I have to go with something else.
Thanks in advance,
Angelo Graham

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul  8 11:04:39 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 10:04:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 rad cap pressure
In-Reply-To: <4C35F80B.7040609@execulink.com>
References: <4C35F80B.7040609@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <088401cb1ebf$a7578a30$0301a8c0@randall>

> My '2 came with 
> a 7lb. cap. 
> I thought they were supposed to run a lower pressure cap. Any 
> thoughts? 

The stock cap was 4 psi.  Running a slightly higher pressure cap does not
seem to be a problem, as long as you don't also have an original type
"aneroid" (bellows) thermostat.  Since the bellows works on air pressure vs
coolant pressure, running higher coolant pressure can upset it.  Or such is
the theory anyway, I've never actually tried it.

I'm running a 10 psi cap on my TR3, but it has a modern "wax pellet" type
thermostat and no heater.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul  8 11:42:07 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 13:42:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
Message-ID: <73cb5.1e858f20.396767ef@cs.com>

This was discussed a couple years back.  What was the concessus on 
cushioning material for mounting the gas tank in a TR3?  Something that would not 
wick up water and stay wet.

Thanks

Dave

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jul  8 15:17:11 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 21:17:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
In-Reply-To: <73cb5.1e858f20.396767ef@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1828423595.264743.1278623831260.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>This was discussed a couple years back.  What was the concessus on 
>cushioning material for mounting the gas tank in a TR3?  Something that would not 
>wick up water and stay wet.

Not fancy, but I just used an old bicycle inner tube I had lying around.

Terry

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul  8 15:22:44 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 17:22:44 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
Message-ID: <2959.45872496.39679ba4@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/8/2010 4:17:10 PM Central Daylight Time, 
terryrs at comcast.net writes: 
> Not fancy, but I just used an old bicycle inner tube I had lying around.
> 
Thanks for the idea.  If only I had an old inner tube around.  But I'm sure 
I can find some similar material.

Thanks.

Dave

From reneandarnold at earthlink.net  Thu Jul  8 15:54:14 2010
From: reneandarnold at earthlink.net (reneandarnold at earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 17:54:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A transmission needed
Message-ID: <16410018.1278626054538.JavaMail.root@wamui-junio.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hello all,1965 TR4A is back on the road...barely.  Engine is once again strong.  Fingers crossed.
We, mechanic buddy the pre 1980 owner, and I want to pull transmission and repair. If I can
find another usable transmission plan would be to switch out and then recondition the original.If someone has a questionable transmission I would consider buying it for parts.  We are not looking for an overdrive. That is currently beyond my budget.  Perhaps you have installed a Toy 5 speed and your old tranny is taking up space. I have a decent TR4 left side door with glass available for partial trade or sale.  I am located near Durham North Carolina, not far from VIR. I remain on the digest.  Thanks for any leads.  Arnold Gilmour

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Jul  8 16:39:28 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 18:39:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A transmission needed
References: <16410018.1278626054538.JavaMail.root@wamui-junio.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <0142EDFA7E964B25B446D6337368897F@userb38463fba5>

I tried to send you a helpful personal e-mail and was asked to complete a 
form on line before you'd allow my e-mail to go through. No interest.
JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <reneandarnold at earthlink.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 5:54 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4A transmission needed


> Hello all,1965 TR4A is back on the road...barely.  Engine is once again 
> strong.  Fingers crossed.
> We, mechanic buddy the pre 1980 owner, and I want to pull transmission and 
> repair. If I can
> find another usable transmission plan would be to switch out and then 
> recondition the original.If someone has a questionable transmission I 
> would consider buying it for parts.  We are not looking for an overdrive. 
> That is currently beyond my budget.  Perhaps you have installed a Toy 5 
> speed and your old tranny is taking up space. I have a decent TR4 left 
> side door with glass available for partial trade or sale.  I am located 
> near Durham North Carolina, not far from VIR. I remain on the digest. 
> Thanks for any leads.  Arnold Gilmour
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul  8 17:35:51 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 16:35:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
In-Reply-To: <73cb5.1e858f20.396767ef@cs.com>
References: <73cb5.1e858f20.396767ef@cs.com>
Message-ID: <08f201cb1ef6$4d689a00$0301a8c0@randall>

> This was discussed a couple years back.  What was the concessus on 
> cushioning material for mounting the gas tank in a TR3?  
> Something that would not 
> wick up water and stay wet.

Personally, I still think the original wool felt works as well as anything.
The tank will always sweat a little under certain conditions, and the porous
wool lets the moisture evaporate.  Plus the natural lanolin acts to repel
water to some extent.

I have had TR3 tanks rust out, but the rust has always been from the inside,
and not associated with where it sits on the pads.  Don't have a photo
handy, but the tank in my wrecked TR3 still looks like new where I put felt
in, some 20 years ago now.  The felt is still in good condition, as well.

Randall

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Thu Jul  8 18:21:24 2010
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 20:21:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  TR4A transmission needed
Message-ID: <e865d.5a5e36e1.3967c584@aol.com>

____________________________________
 From: Loumetelko at aol.com
To: reneandarnold at earthlink.net
Sent: 7/8/2010  8:17:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time
Subj: Re: [TR] TR4A transmission  needed





Hi Arnold:
When I bought my 4A in 1998 it came with a spare transmission (non  OD).  
Don't know why the previous owner had a spare because I have never  had a 
problem with the original during 25,000 or so miles.  The serial  number on 
that spare is CT72579 which makes it a mid to late 1966.  It  has been on the 
top of a two drawer filing cabinet for all the years in the  attached garage. 
 It shifts to all gears but other than that I have not  touched it.  Only 
problem is I am in far northeast Indiana.  To give  a general idea of 
shipping, I sent an O/D TR2 transmission to Connecticut and  the UPS cost was $80 
but that was in 1992 so that has definitely  changed.  Try UPS on line for a 
shipment of 80 lbs from my zip of 46706  to yours.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
 

Hello  all,1965 TR4A is back on the road...barely.  Engine is once again  
strong.  Fingers crossed.
We, mechanic buddy the pre 1980 owner, and  I want to pull transmission and 
repair. If I can
find another usable  transmission plan would be to switch out and then 
recondition the  original.If someone has a questionable transmission I would 
consider buying  it for parts.  We are not looking for an overdrive. That is 
currently  beyond my budget.  Perhaps you have installed a Toy 5 speed and 
your  old tranny is taking up space. I have a decent TR4 left side door with 
glass  available for partial trade or sale.  I am located near Durham North  
Carolina, not far from VIR. I remain on the digest.  Thanks for any  leads.  
Arnold  Gilmour

From wsmith64 at rcn.com  Thu Jul  8 19:33:21 2010
From: wsmith64 at rcn.com (William Smith)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 21:33:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stainless steel bumpers
Message-ID: <000001cb1f06$b74972e0$25dc58a0$@com>

Does anyone have any experience with stainless steel bumpers from Harrington
Group? I found them on ebay.

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Jul  8 20:13:39 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 20:13:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
In-Reply-To: <73cb5.1e858f20.396767ef@cs.com>
References: <73cb5.1e858f20.396767ef@cs.com>
Message-ID: <152FC7AE1DAE4B82B4D9667FF177DC42@bboffice>

I used some of the toolbox drawer liner from HF, I figured is was porous and
a good non-slip rubber.
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 11:42 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting

This was discussed a couple years back.  What was the concessus on
cushioning material for mounting the gas tank in a TR3?  Something that
would not wick up water and stay wet.

Thanks

Dave

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Jul  8 20:13:39 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 20:13:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 rad cap pressure
In-Reply-To: <4C35F80B.7040609@execulink.com>
References: <4C35F80B.7040609@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <4E42AD45E7054494A8DD578FB2AD6EDA@bboffice>

Angelo,
I am running a standard 4lb cap from NAPA.  Have not had any serious
problems except that if I put it under pressures like accelerating up hill
at freeway speeds it will climb about 10 degrees beyond normal and some
coolant will release from the cap.  I am not sure what the cold level is for
coolant so I may simply be overfilled a bit.

Most of my driving is at higher elevations, 5,000-8,000 feet so I am not
sure if the lower boiling point would call for a heavier or lighter cap.
Perhaps there is an expert out there that could help to explain the
differences.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 10:09 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 rad cap pressure

Hello List:
Seems to have been quiet on the list the last couple of days. Wondering
about rad cap pressures for the 2/3 engines. My '2 came with a 7lb. cap. 
I thought they were supposed to run a lower pressure cap. Any thoughts? 
Am I OK with the 7lb. cap? I have a couple of good long reach 7 lb. 
caps, so wondering if I have to go with something else.
Thanks in advance,
Angelo Graham

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Jul  8 20:54:05 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 21:54:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4a_-_solid_axle_vs_IRS?=
Message-ID: <20100709025301.456B5187678@autox.team.net>

Maybe.  But it sold a half million units and dominated e production for twenty years. 


Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dixie4" <dixie4.wales at virgin.net>
Date: Tue, Jul 6, 2010 14:22
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS
To: <Dave1massey at cs.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Such profanity MGB!!!
Therein lies another vehicle platform of antiquated suspension from the parts bin mostly developed before
World War 2 or just after.
Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64306 0
----- Original Message ----- From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS


> In a message dated 7/6/2010 11:59:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
> dave at ranteer.com writes:
>> what's the feeling in terms of desireability and value of an irs car vs a
>>
>> solid axle car?
>>
>
> Personal preference, I think.  Some prefer the solid axle for it's
> predictability, others prefer the nimbleness of the IRS.
>
> But consider this: TR4A - TR6: IRS, MGB: Solid axle.
>
>
>
>
>
> Just kidding.
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2985 - Release Date: 07/06/10 07:36:00

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul  8 21:32:58 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 23:32:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
Message-ID: <a7934.12e825bf.3967f26a@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/8/2010 6:59:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> >This was discussed a couple years back.  What was the concessus on 
> >cushioning material for mounting the gas tank in a TR3?  
> >Something that would not 
> >wick up water and stay wet.
> 
> Personally, I still think the original wool felt works as well as 
> anything.
> The tank will always sweat a little under certain conditions, and the 
> porous
> wool lets the moisture evaporate.  Plus the natural lanolin acts to repel
> water to some extent.
> 
> I have had TR3 tanks rust out, but the rust has always been from the 
> inside,
> and not associated with where it sits on the pads.  Don't have a photo
> handy, but the tank in my wrecked TR3 still looks like new where I put 
> felt
> in, some 20 years ago now.  The felt is still in good condition, as well.
> 

I wonder if the desert climate helps.  Living here in the midwest with 36 
inches of annual rain fall may yeild different results.  Nonetheless, how is 
the felt arranged (it's been that long since I took the car apart and I 
forget)?

Thanks.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul  8 21:43:59 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 23:43:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
Message-ID: <a7f6b.6b01dfdd.3967f4ff@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/8/2010 9:13:53 PM Central Daylight Time, 
wbeech at flash.net writes: 
> I used some of the toolbox drawer liner from HF, I figured is was porous 
> and
> a good non-slip rubber.
> 

Thanks.  And a convenient source.  I've got an Harbor Freight near the 
house.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul  8 21:45:31 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 23:45:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4a - solid axle vs IRS
Message-ID: <a8041.79974b97.3967f55b@cs.com>

Maybe.  But it sold a half million units and dominated e production for 
twenty years. 



Such profanity MGB!!!
Therein lies another vehicle platform of antiquated suspension from the 
parts bin mostly developed before
World War 2 or just after.

Boys, boys, boys.  It's all in fun, after all.

Dave

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul  8 22:11:15 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 22:11:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] test
In-Reply-To: <227320.68045.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <227320.68045.qm@web80204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C36A163.7090603@bradakis.com>

A rehash of a message from a couple of days ago:



Those of you who have email that gets routed in various ways through
AT&T, like att.net, sbcglobal.net, pacbell, etc. Have most likely not
seen any Team.Net email for a few days.

For some reason AT&T was blocking Team.Net.  I have no idea why, what
started it, and you folks don't pay me enough to waste a day on the
phone sifting through an endless stream of clueless "tech support"
drones to find out why.

I have gotten the block removed and am in the process of getting
the effected addresses back into normal operation.  Thank you for
your patience.

mjb.

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Fri Jul  9 06:54:40 2010
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 08:54:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A seats
Message-ID: <3126f.4c3b0bc.39687610@aol.com>

Listers,
I received this email about TR4A seats for sale. Said I'd forward the info  
to the list.
Don't know anything about them, contact Mike directly.
NFI and all that.
Eric L.
 
 
< I recently cleaned out a relative's house and found a pair of seats  for 
a TR 4A that I need to < find a home for.   Located in the  southwest 
Michigan area.  Any suggestions? 
Mike Beck 
_bceresco at comcast.net_ (mailto:bceresco at comcast.net)  

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Jul  9 08:01:46 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 14:01:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] lending cars?
In-Reply-To: <98092.38151.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <991367061.5377.1278684106428.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> What
> think you Phil Ethier, now that "uncle jack" is yours?
> 
> Jonmac

I think that Sue drove me to and from the Minnesota Triumphs club meeting last night in a gorgeous Stag.  I was proud of both of them.



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven  FOR SALE
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  9 08:45:34 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 07:45:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A transmission needed
Message-ID: <86514.97721.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
Sorry for this message, but when I tried to reply I was told to go to a web
site that is not working. So Here's the message for Arnold G. :
 
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 17:54:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: reneandarnold at earthlink.net
Subject: [TR]
TR4A transmission needed
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Hello all,1965 TR4A is back on the road...barely.  Engine is once again
strong.  Fingers crossed.
We, mechanic buddy the pre 1980 owner, and I want to pull transmission and
repair. If I can
find another usable transmission plan would be to switch out and then
recondition the original.If someone has a questionable transmission I would
consider buying it for parts.  We are not looking for an overdrive. That is
currently beyond my budget.  Perhaps you have installed a Toy 5 speed and your
old tranny is taking up space. I have a decent TR4 left side door with glass
available for partial trade or sale.  I am located near Durham North Carolina,
not far from VIR. I remain on the digest.  Thanks for any leads. 
-Arnold Gilmour

-----------------------------------        
Hi Arnold!
 
I'm on the digest list so I'm not sure if I'm to late to let you know that I
have a TR4A tranny.
 
Please reply if you are still interested.
-Cosmo Kramer

From agraham at execulink.com  Fri Jul  9 10:27:42 2010
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 12:27:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
Message-ID: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Thanks to the list members who answered my previous question on rad cap 
pressure. Am in the final stages of reassembly of my longstanding TR2 
project, so all sorts of questions arising.
Just wondering about the orientation of the gas filler cap. Is there any 
"right way" to orient the filler cap? Open to left, right or back? Just 
personal preference?
Thanks for all your patience and help with these things.
Angelo Graham

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul  9 10:30:01 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:30:01 EDT
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
Message-ID: <bb5e3.6c2260a8.3968a889@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/9/2010 11:27:49 AM Central Daylight Time, 
agraham at execulink.com writes: 
> Hello List:
> Thanks to the list members who answered my previous question on rad cap 
> pressure. Am in the final stages of reassembly of my longstanding TR2 
> project, so all sorts of questions arising.
> Just wondering about the orientation of the gas filler cap. Is there any 
> "right way" to orient the filler cap? Open to left, right or back? Just 
> personal preference?
> Thanks for all your patience and help with these things.
> Angelo Graham
> 

I don't know what the originality police have to say but I orient it so 
that I can fill the car from the same side as my daily driver.  Makes for less 
confusion.

Cheers

Dave

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  9 10:50:58 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:50:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A seats
In-Reply-To: <3126f.4c3b0bc.39687610@aol.com>
References: <3126f.4c3b0bc.39687610@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W256F6A29E3D713B3C8EE29BAB50@phx.gbl>

FWIW, I have a set in Northern Ohio I am not going to use also.  Might be
3/4/4A not sure. Just know they are too short to be from a 6.



Marty

> From: ElangTR4 at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 08:54:40 -0400
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR4A seats
>
> Listers,
> I received this email about TR4A seats for sale. Said I'd forward the info
> to the list.
> Don't know anything about them, contact Mike directly.
> NFI and all that.
> Eric L.

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Jul  9 11:20:33 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:20:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
In-Reply-To: <bb5e3.6c2260a8.3968a889@cs.com>
References: <bb5e3.6c2260a8.3968a889@cs.com>
Message-ID: <2B041B5EEFE64E72B874A176C1FB14C4@ranteer.local>

on a tr6 I believe it is supposed to be filled from the passenger side.  I 
suspect that is because on a right hand drive car, it would be on the driver 
side.

but I, too, have "adjusted it" for my convenience


>> Just wondering about the orientation of the gas filler cap. Is there any
>> "right way" to orient the filler cap? Open to left, right or back? Just
>> personal preference?
>> Thanks for all your patience and help with these things.
>> Angelo Graham
>>
>
> I don't know what the originality police have to say but I orient it so
> that I can fill the car from the same side as my daily driver.  Makes for 
> less
> confusion.
>
> Cheers
>
> Dave

From davidt at opentext.com  Fri Jul  9 11:24:39 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:24:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
In-Reply-To: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>
References: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4A78@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Angelo,

The hinge for my 3a is on the right.  Works for me :-)


David

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 12:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation

Hello List:
Thanks to the list members who answered my previous question on rad cap
pressure. Am in the final stages of reassembly of my longstanding TR2
project, so all sorts of questions arising.
Just wondering about the orientation of the gas filler cap. Is there any

"right way" to orient the filler cap? Open to left, right or back? Just
personal preference?
Thanks for all your patience and help with these things.
Angelo Graham

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt at opentext.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  9 11:35:02 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 10:35:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
In-Reply-To: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>
References: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <000301cb1f8d$108df660$31a9e320$@rr.com>

> Is there any
> "right way" to orient the filler cap?

I couldn't find any mention of it in the TRA judging guidelines.  Latch in
the back seems logical, but the trunk/boot lid will hit it and
unintentionally open the cap (as well as eventually marking the paint).  So
I have mine turned with the latch to the driver's side; as I always walk
past that point no matter which side the pump is on.  

And when the pump is on the other side, it's easy enough to stand behind the
car and fill from the rear.  In fact, that's generally what I do anyway.

-- Randall 

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Jul  9 11:36:08 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 11:36:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
In-Reply-To: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>
References: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <334E529916C8420C8557B5BA472104C8@bboffice>

I have no idea what the official side is, don't see anything in the TRA
judging guide.  When I got the car the PO had it opening straight to the
rear, which I thought was a good idea until I noticed the dent that the
latch had put in the boot lid, I now have mine opening to the drivers.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 10:28 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation

Hello List:
Thanks to the list members who answered my previous question on rad cap
pressure. Am in the final stages of reassembly of my longstanding TR2
project, so all sorts of questions arising.
Just wondering about the orientation of the gas filler cap. Is there any
"right way" to orient the filler cap? Open to left, right or back? Just
personal preference?
Thanks for all your patience and help with these things.
Angelo Graham

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  9 11:44:27 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 10:44:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
In-Reply-To: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>
References: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <FFB0AD14-F4EC-4CBB-9883-C43D74DA35C7@gmail.com>

Angelo

I found two original magazine adverts for lefthand drive for TR3s that show
the hinge on the passenger side.  Be happy to send e-copies to anyone
interested.

John


John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/


On  9 Jul, 2010, at 9:27 AM, Angelo Graham wrote:

> Hello List:
> Thanks to the list members who answered my previous question on rad cap
pressure. Am in the final stages of reassembly of my longstanding TR2 project,
so all sorts of questions arising.
> Just wondering about the orientation of the gas filler cap. Is there any
"right way" to orient the filler cap? Open to left, right or back? Just
personal preference?
> Thanks for all your patience and help with these things.
> Angelo Graham
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  9 11:44:35 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 10:44:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
In-Reply-To: <a7934.12e825bf.3967f26a@cs.com>
References: <a7934.12e825bf.3967f26a@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000401cb1f8e$65831e60$30895b20$@rr.com>

> I wonder if the desert climate helps.  

No doubt it would, if I lived in the desert.  But this is actually a costal
climate, we do get some rain.  And the results were similar when I lived in
the Midwest.

> Nonetheless, how is the felt arranged

I'd have to check for the actual width, but I bought a roll that was perhaps
1.25" wide, intended for weather-stripping.  I laid two strips (or was it
3?) across the body where the tank rests, and then lined the tank straps
with the same stuff.

-- Randall 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Jul  9 11:47:28 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 10:47:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
In-Reply-To: <334E529916C8420C8557B5BA472104C8@bboffice>
References: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>
	<334E529916C8420C8557B5BA472104C8@bboffice>
Message-ID: <a06240802c85d104cdf0a@[192.168.2.4]>

I doubt if there is any "right" answer ... other than a VTR judged 
concours, no one will really know ... nor care ... put it where you 
want it ... :-|


ps: I was wrong about the starter solenoid too ... it does face the 
rear of the car ... :-[



>I have no idea what the official side is, don't see anything in the TRA
>judging guide.  When I got the car the PO had it opening straight to the
>rear, which I thought was a good idea until I noticed the dent that the
>latch had put in the boot lid, I now have mine opening to the drivers.
>Bill
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Fri Jul  9 11:49:26 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 17:49:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
In-Reply-To: <FFB0AD14-F4EC-4CBB-9883-C43D74DA35C7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <955986622.2684391278697766989.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Don't recall where I read it (maybe Bill Piggott's book covering all Triumph sports cars from the TR2 through the TR8), but I believe the cap opens from whatever is the driver's side.  So for LHD cars, the hinge would be on the passenger's side.

BobW
Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia)
1974 TR6 

From carlsereda at aol.com  Fri Jul  9 12:15:10 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 11:15:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 293
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1278698402.23775.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <48418BD8.28DE.47B6.9E39.94B206E575AD@aol.com>

Hi, I read somewhere that the TR gas cap release mechanism should be 
toward the driver side (depending on the country you're in) so that 
the driver can easily reach over and pop it open for the gas station 
attendant who would be (used to be) filling your car..
Regards,
Carl '63 TR4 since '74

"right way" to orient the filler cap? Open to left, right or back? Just
personal preference?
Thanks for all your patience and help with these things.
Angelo Graham

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Fri Jul  9 12:19:55 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 14:19:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Vendor Question
Message-ID: <38FED848FBCA473EB56252ED745AB0DA@TRGUY>

Has anyone done business with Jaime Garcia out of Laredo, TX? He has been
selling orig aluminum surrey tops and has replacement surrey top rear section
glass available.  He mentionedhe has done business with the clubs before.
Please contact me off list.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From reneandarnold at earthlink.net  Fri Jul  9 13:00:35 2010
From: reneandarnold at earthlink.net (reneandarnold at earthlink.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 15:00:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Filter apology
Message-ID: <29474072.1278702035864.JavaMail.root@wamui-bucket.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I have received some very good responses to my TR4A transmission query. Thanks all. My web based mail server has a mail filter.  My plan is to try it off.  Before when I shared this address with my good wife there was a tendency to receive many advertisements.  So my intention is not to offend anyone. Thanks, Arnold 

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Jul  9 13:09:59 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:09:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3A Generator/Dynamo question
Message-ID: <4CD6CFF7401C45A4976E89AEF642F232@bboffice>

Lost the rear bushing last weekend and it appears that the armature/windings
are damaged as well.  I have been looking through the internet for a
replacement and am not sure just what the correct unit for my car is, and
what alternative units will work as well or better.
 
The stamping on my generator case shows 22700K, however I see in the TRF red
book that they supply 22715 which appears to be a TR4 unit but would
probably work as well or be an upgrade.  One thing I noted on my 22700 unit
is that is uses spade connections rather than the ring & screw that would
lead me to believe it is even a newer(post-TS60000) unit that what I am
really supposed to have.
 
Is there any cross reference available that could show just what models will
be successfully compatible with my 1958 TS-30766L?
 
TIA
 
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Fri Jul  9 13:22:14 2010
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 20:22:14 +0100
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 293
In-Reply-To: <48418BD8.28DE.47B6.9E39.94B206E575AD@aol.com>
References: <48418BD8.28DE.47B6.9E39.94B206E575AD@aol.com>
Message-ID: <868406C335504FF9A0E5BA3E76CD8DE5@AdrianPC>

I personally will be placing the release button facing to the rear on my 
TR4A. This because as the car started its life as left-hand drive it is now 
right-hand drive so I do not wish to confuse the old dear.

Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64307 O
Wales UK
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "carlsereda" <carlsereda at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 293


> Hi, I read somewhere that the TR gas cap release mechanism should be
> toward the driver side (depending on the country you're in) so that
> the driver can easily reach over and pop it open for the gas station
> attendant who would be (used to be) filling your car..
> Regards,
> Carl '63 TR4 since '74
>
> "right way" to orient the filler cap? Open to left, right or back? Just
> personal preference?
> Thanks for all your patience and help with these things.
> Angelo Graham
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Jul  9 14:05:04 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 20:05:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 293
In-Reply-To: <1725548133.24751.1278705879436.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2136535850.24775.1278705904389.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> Hi, I read somewhere that the TR gas cap release mechanism should be 
> toward the driver side (depending on the country you're in) so that 
> the driver can easily reach over and pop it open for the gas station 
> attendant who would be (used to be) filling your car..

Still is, in some places.  In Oregon and New Jersey one needs a license to dispense gasoline.  Even though I already knew about it, it was a bit of a culture shock to this Minnesota kid when I was out west with the rented motorhome and the TR4 last autumn.  Yes, they carefully used a towel when withdrawing the nozzle from the TR4.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Fri Jul  9 14:15:40 2010
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:15:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Lending cars
Message-ID: <378647.81003.qm@web30908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Has anyone come up with the name of the guy who borrowed, and then ef'd up Dan
Masters car?   
 
Joe Merone
CF18928
5-speed

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Jul  9 14:30:15 2010
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 15:30:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Generator/Dynamo question
In-Reply-To: <4CD6CFF7401C45A4976E89AEF642F232@bboffice>
References: <4CD6CFF7401C45A4976E89AEF642F232@bboffice>
Message-ID: <20100709133065.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Back in the day, when we were rebuilding piles of these units, we 
would freely interchange the cases (that has the part number), and 
the armatures and end plates, to a lesser degree.   There is a lot of 
interchangeability with these units. They fit a pile of cars as well 
as Triumphs.  There will also be a date code stamped on the case, 
that will be a give-away. Most electrical shops can repair the 
armature, though finding a suitable replacement shouldn't be too 
hard. The bushing, and end plates are available as well. 22700  22704 
22715 etc. etc.

Hmmmm just checked my old Lucas reference.. your car should have a 
22258  which is interchangeable with the above units.

         Peter C
===
At 02:09 PM 7/9/2010, wbeech at flash.net wrote:
>Lost the rear bushing last weekend and it appears that the armature/windings
>are damaged as well.  I have been looking through the internet for a
>replacement and am not sure just what the correct unit for my car is, and
>what alternative units will work as well or better.
>
>The stamping on my generator case shows 22700K, however I see in the TRF red
>book that they supply 22715 which appears to be a TR4 unit but would
>probably work as well or be an upgrade.  One thing I noted on my 22700 unit
>is that is uses spade connections rather than the ring & screw that would
>lead me to believe it is even a newer(post-TS60000) unit that what I am
>really supposed to have.
>
>Is there any cross reference available that could show just what models will
>be successfully compatible with my 1958 TS-30766L?
>
>TIA
>
>Bill
>
>Bill Beecher
>'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Fri Jul  9 14:38:29 2010
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:38:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Lending cars
In-Reply-To: <8CCEDBCD443A234-18D0-1DFA@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3236.1188.qm@web30902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Nobody's trying to bring this up again - and for any of you on the list who
got that impression I apologize for that.  My only reason for asking was that
it was killing me that I couldn't remember. 
 
In my message I should have asked people to reply-sender.  A couple of folks
have contacted me just that way, so now I know the answer - and can sleep well
again :)
 
Joe Merone
CF18928
5-speed

 
 

--- On Fri, 7/9/10, Andrew Mace <zoboherald at aol.com> wrote:


From: Andrew Mace <zoboherald at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Lending cars
To: jmerone at rocketmail.com
Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 4:31 PM



Joe, his name is well known to me and many others, but I see no point in
bringing this all up again; it's over and done.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Merone <jmerone at rocketmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 9, 2010 4:15 pm
Subject: [TR] Lending cars


Has anyone come up with the name of the guy who borrowed, and then ef'd up
Dan


Masters car?





Joe Merone


CF18928


5-speed





_______________________________________________


Triumphs at autox.team.net


Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html


Suggested annual donation  $11.47


Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


Forums: http://www.team.net/forums


Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/zoboherald at aol.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul  9 15:24:41 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 17:24:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
Message-ID: <f84cd.511a0311.3968ed99@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/9/2010 12:45:03 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> I'd have to check for the actual width, but I bought a roll that was 
> perhaps
> 1.25" wide, intended for weather-stripping.  I laid two strips (or was it
> 3?) across the body where the tank rests, and then lined the tank straps
> with the same stuff.
> 

Thanks.  I was wondering if one could "get by" with some pads under the 
tank in the area where the straps are and leave the center part open (air gap) 
or will the tank indent.  The air gap will help keep those surfaces dry.  
But I guess that only means when it comes time to repair the rust holes in the 
tank they will be more localized.

Probably all academic considering these cars rarely see the rain any more.

Cheers

Dave

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Jul  9 15:54:52 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 21:54:52 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
In-Reply-To: <000301cb1f8d$108df660$31a9e320$@rr.com>
References: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>
	<000301cb1f8d$108df660$31a9e320$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <925776.53407.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Release button on the left, hinge on the right, looking at the filler from the
rear of the car. Don't recall this being different handing on left or right
hand 
drive cars.

Jonmac




________________________________
From: Randall
<tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 9 July, 2010
18:35:02
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation

> Is there any
>
"right way" to orient the filler cap?

I couldn't find any mention of it in
the TRA judging guidelines.  Latch in
the back seems logical, but the
trunk/boot lid will hit it and
unintentionally open the cap (as well as
eventually marking the paint).  So
I have mine turned with the latch to the
driver's side; as I always walk
past that point no matter which side the pump
is on.  

And when the pump is on the other side, it's easy enough to stand
behind the
car and fill from the rear.  In fact, that's generally what I do
anyway.

-- Randall 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  9 16:06:46 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 15:06:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Generator/Dynamo question
In-Reply-To: <20100709133065.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <4CD6CFF7401C45A4976E89AEF642F232@bboffice>
	<20100709133065.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <002801cb1fb3$07f73680$17e5a380$@rr.com>

> Hmmmm just checked my old Lucas reference.. your car should have a
> 22258  which is interchangeable with the above units.

Just for chuckles, I found that all the following Lucas numbers interchange
to the same "new" number (G4012):

22250
22258
22272
22295
22297
22700
22704
22705
22708
22715
22725
22742
22748
22754
22767
22775
22785
22789

But as noted, most of these will have the later "Lucar" connections instead
of the earlier studs/nuts.  To deal with that issue, I would suggest just
replacing the short 2-wire sub-harness from the generator to the control
box, with one that has suitable connections on each end.  It tends to get
fried with heat anyway, so chances are that your old one is in poor
condition.

The 3/8" quick connects used for the output terminal are getting a bit
harder to find, but my local electronics shop still has them on the shelf,
and it appears that Digi-Key will sell you a strip of 10 for under $4:
http://tinyurl.com/y9ma9u2

-- Randall 

From agraham at execulink.com  Fri Jul  9 16:22:56 2010
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 18:22:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 instrument mounting
Message-ID: <4C37A140.80207@execulink.com>

Hello List:
 A question about mounting the instruments and the use of "O" rings. I 
ordered a set of "O" rings from TRF and understand they fit between the 
instrument bezel and the dash panel. Is there any type of sealing 
between the glass and instrument case? I removed my temp gauge and 
couldn't find any remnants of a gasket between the bezel and dash. It 
looked as though there was something between the glass and the case - 
just found some black remnants.
What happens here? Just use the "O" rings on the dash? Not worry about 
sealing the glass to case??
Thanks again for any insights.
Angelo Graham

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Fri Jul  9 16:35:32 2010
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 18:35:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Generator/Dynamo question
In-Reply-To: <20100709133065.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <4CD6CFF7401C45A4976E89AEF642F232@bboffice>
	<20100709133065.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <C1F5E17E9BFD4E2785D2C7B760815645@DaveLaptop>

I have a decent armature if you need one.
Email me off line if interested. Just reimburse me for shipping and it's 
yours.
Dave Connitt
TR4A IRS
http:/home.fuse.net/davestr4a
Cincinnati, Ohio
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Caldwell" <peter at nosimport.com>
To: <wbeech at flash.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Generator/Dynamo question


> Back in the day, when we were rebuilding piles of these units, we would 
> freely interchange the cases (that has the part number), and the armatures 
> and end plates, to a lesser degree.   There is a lot of interchangeability 
> with these units. They fit a pile of cars as well as Triumphs.  There will 
> also be a date code stamped on the case, that will be a give-away. Most 
> electrical shops can repair the armature, though finding a suitable 
> replacement shouldn't be too hard. The bushing, and end plates are 
> available as well. 22700  22704 22715 etc. etc.
>
> Hmmmm just checked my old Lucas reference.. your car should have a 22258 
> which is interchangeable with the above units.
>
>         Peter C
> ===
> At 02:09 PM 7/9/2010, wbeech at flash.net wrote:
>>Lost the rear bushing last weekend and it appears that the 
>>armature/windings
>>are damaged as well.  I have been looking through the internet for a
>>replacement and am not sure just what the correct unit for my car is, and
>>what alternative units will work as well or better.
>>
>>The stamping on my generator case shows 22700K, however I see in the TRF 
>>red
>>book that they supply 22715 which appears to be a TR4 unit but would
>>probably work as well or be an upgrade.  One thing I noted on my 22700 
>>unit
>>is that is uses spade connections rather than the ring & screw that would
>>lead me to believe it is even a newer(post-TS60000) unit that what I am
>>really supposed to have.
>>
>>Is there any cross reference available that could show just what models 
>>will
>>be successfully compatible with my 1958 TS-30766L?
>>
>>TIA
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>Bill Beecher
>>'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri Jul  9 18:14:58 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 20:14:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch kit ID issue
In-Reply-To: <1F7D7E252B3D44E8ABBA816B9259DC65@robertlaptop>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9AD0@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi All:

I have a leak in the clutch master cylinder of my 1972 TR6. Tired of Dot5 all
over shoes and carpet, I bought a kit from our local parts supplier.

However, he was a bit uncertain as to which diameter unit was in the car.
There were apparently 0.7" and 0.75" diameter units in the TR6 run. I vaguely
recall this. I have just removed the unit and I see that it has Girling 70 in
raised letters on the casting. That would seem to settle the question of which
unit goes with my car.

Unfortunately I cannot remember which kit type the parts man sold me. The kit
is labelled "CSP 1967" and "QA 1197" in smaller letters. Do I have a 0.75 or
0.70 kit?

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Jul  9 19:21:17 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 21:21:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 instrument mounting
In-Reply-To: <4C37A140.80207@execulink.com>
References: <4C37A140.80207@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <201007092121.17810.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday, July 09, 2010 06:22:56 pm Angelo Graham wrote:
> Hello List:
>  A question about mounting the instruments and the use of "O" rings. I
> ordered a set of "O" rings from TRF and understand they fit between the
> instrument bezel and the dash panel. Is there any type of sealing
> between the glass and instrument case? I removed my temp gauge and
> couldn't find any remnants of a gasket between the bezel and dash. It
> looked as though there was something between the glass and the case -
> just found some black remnants.
> What happens here? Just use the "O" rings on the dash? Not worry about
> sealing the glass to case??
> Thanks again for any insights.
> Angelo Graham

Angelo,

The black stuff you see is what is left of the rubber gasket between the glass 
and the chrome ring.

When I did my gauges I used some of that black stuff that is used to seal the 
screens on windows and doors. They sell it as Lowes. I got the smallest 
diameter I could. It works ok and the glass does not rattle. If you dont put 
something between the chrome ring and the glass, the glass will be very loose.
Bob

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul  9 19:55:24 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 18:55:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] Filter apology
In-Reply-To: <29474072.1278702035864.JavaMail.root@wamui-bucket.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <29474072.1278702035864.JavaMail.root@wamui-bucket.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinLyBL3BSI6wHuBSqeqgsbDlBOxCqcszkooM6Q9@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/9/10, reneandarnold at earthlink.net <reneandarnold at earthlink.net> wrote:
> ...My web based mail server has a mail filter.  My plan is to try
> it off.  Before when I shared this address with my good wife there was a
> tendency to receive many advertisements...

FWIW -- I set up a separate Gmail account just for the Triumph list.
Free, easy to use and nearly limitless storage for my personal
archive.  I use it for nothing else so (thus far -- about a year) no
spam.

This could also be useful for those who ISPs seem to have problems
from time to time with the list.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul  9 19:58:42 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 18:58:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 293
In-Reply-To: <868406C335504FF9A0E5BA3E76CD8DE5@AdrianPC>
References: <48418BD8.28DE.47B6.9E39.94B206E575AD@aol.com>
	<868406C335504FF9A0E5BA3E76CD8DE5@AdrianPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikSQTM_jdMBfjmHnSPo284NgNR3FRLTdElR0UuY@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/9/10, Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net> wrote:
> I personally will be placing the release button facing to the rear on my
> TR4A...

You may want to carefully raise the boot lid with the release button
pointed aft -- you may find that it will leave a little dent in the
paint work in that position.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul  9 20:12:57 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 19:12:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lending cars
In-Reply-To: <3236.1188.qm@web30902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <8CCEDBCD443A234-18D0-1DFA@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com>
	<3236.1188.qm@web30902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimwwhV-LKAyq_hRShjSbdohHhClsqU5zyMXLLAT@mail.gmail.com>

I, too, remember well his name -- but as far as I am concerned it has
been "stricken from every book and tablet. Stricken from every pylon
and obelisk... unheard and unspoken, erased from the memory of man,
for all time".

G

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sat Jul 10 01:45:39 2010
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 08:45:39 +0100
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
In-Reply-To: <925776.53407.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com><000301cb1f8d$108df660$31a9e320$@rr.com>
	<925776.53407.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2479161CFC6C4CF4B563EF9CCD2BB7C2@AdrianPC>

Hi Jonmac,

Could the orientation of the button and hinge of the fuel cap have been 
dictated by the fact that the vast majority of TRs manufactured were 
left -hand drive?

Adrian
1966 TR4A CT 64307 O
Wales UK.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation


> Release button on the left, hinge on the right, looking at the filler from 
> the
> rear of the car. Don't recall this being different handing on left or 
> right
> hand
> drive cars.
>
> Jonmac
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Randall
> <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Fri, 9 July, 2010
> 18:35:02
> Subject: Re: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
>
>> Is there any
>>
> "right way" to orient the filler cap?
>
> I couldn't find any mention of it in
> the TRA judging guidelines.  Latch in
> the back seems logical, but the
> trunk/boot lid will hit it and
> unintentionally open the cap (as well as
> eventually marking the paint).  So
> I have mine turned with the latch to the
> driver's side; as I always walk
> past that point no matter which side the pump
> is on.
>
> And when the pump is on the other side, it's easy enough to stand
> behind the
> car and fill from the rear.  In fact, that's generally what I do
> anyway.
>
> -- Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested
> annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sat Jul 10 09:44:27 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 11:44:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
Message-ID: <95115.5001278e.3969ef5b@aol.com>

This isn't conclusive, but I am certain the latch was on the driver's  
side/hinge on the passenger's side of my dad's RHD 1960 TR3A that we owned  in 
the UK in 1972-75. This, as has been previously mentioned, would facilitate  
filling for the driver. I can't say if it was originally in that position; 
the  car had been painted once before we bought it and therefore the filler 
may have  been removed for that operation (but knowing UK paint techniques 
from the 70's,  it probably wasn't....) and refitted differently. However, I 
am tending to think  it was original.  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Sat Jul 10 10:40:46 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 18:40:46 +0200
Subject: [TR] Gas tank filler cap orientation
References: <4C374DFE.9000804@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <442F111CA8C84114AE42F094678395C3@Study>

Best put the cap so it opens to either side of the car. ISTR fore and 
aftcauses a mark on the boot lid if you open that.

David Brister.
TR4A 


--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 9673 of my spam emails to date.
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From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 10 14:43:12 2010
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 13:43:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Generator/Dynamo question
In-Reply-To: <DF68D4B95ACB4C509EA75B5FAAE4F6DE@bboffice>
References: <4CD6CFF7401C45A4976E89AEF642F232@bboffice>
	<4C38A716.6060903@comcast.net> <4C38B840.4020604@comcast.net>
	<DF68D4B95ACB4C509EA75B5FAAE4F6DE@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4C38DB60.2060605@comcast.net>

Hi Bill,

This sounds like a good plan. I think you should be able to piece
together a good unit with Peter's parts. I have heard that the heat from
the exhaust manifold cooks the rear bushing. I have wondered if a
synthetic oil might be an improvement over the classic lubricants that
have been used in the past?

Let me know if you do come up short on parts.

Thanks,

Mike

wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Michael,
>
> Just got back a got your messages, Peter Caldwell has also offered to ship a
> box of parts that make up a complete unit.  I am hopeful that between what
> he sends and what I have I can compile a complete working generator.
>
> Thanks so much for your offer, I am surely going to save your email should I
> still come up wanting after this next effort.
>
> BTW, both of those numbers look like Lucas numbers, the C40 is indicative of
> the size of the yoke (mine is a C40 as well), and I believe the 03 70 is the
> month and year of manufacture( mine is marked 22700K 08 65).  
>
> Thank again for your kind offer!!
>
> Bill

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat Jul 10 14:55:30 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 16:55:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alloy Wheel Question
Message-ID: <53B0192D74AA476BB8932D00A659E9C1@TRGUY>

Anyone running 7 inch wide alloys on a TR?  I am considering a set for my TR4
but not sure if they are too wide for a stock TR.  Also, will 205 width fit ok
or too narrow for 7 inch?
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Sat Jul 10 17:37:45 2010
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 19:37:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question on installing a Delco 7127 style alternator on a
 TR4A
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1278352802.20169.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1278352802.20169.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CCEEA0089BCCAB-73C-BDD2@webmail-d072.sysops.aol.com>

 I used the same method as Dave to mount a 7127 to TR4.

The original generator adjusting bracket worked fine, after being flattened a
bit.

As I recall, I added a couple washers under the engine-mounted end of that
bracket and the lower one, to get the pulleys to line up perfectly.

I also ended up notching a little out of the alternator housing to be able to
more fully adjust the belt tension. There was plenty of material in the
casting, so I'm sure it didn't weaken it. One downside to this is that it
might not be usable for a core, if the alternator ever needs replacing... and
in which case the replacement would need similar modifications. It might be
possible to instead have the modified alternator rebuilt locally, though.

A side note for anyone replacing the TRactor engine generator or doing an
alternator conversion... While you have the car apart, I'm pretty sure one or
more of the bolts that holds the lower mounting bracket to the engine pierces
all the way through to the engine's water jacket. If that the vibrated loose
and dropped out, the coolant would dump out and the engine will overheat very
quickly and badly. Check that those bolts are secure! Or you might even
consider drilling them and adding safety wire as a precaution.



Alan Myers
San Jose, California
amfoto1 at aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L
www.triumphowners.com/640





-----Original Message-----


Hi Dave,



I installed a GM 10SI alternator in my TR4 a couple of years ago. I used

exactly the method you described for the bottom mount, i.e. the long bolt

and spacer thru the generator mounting bracket. For the upper tension

bracket I used the original TR bracket. I hammered out most of the offset to

make the bracket line up with the upper mount on the alternator. The whole

setup, including the switch to negative ground, has been pretty much

bulletproof.



Best of Luck,



Pete Fullam

CT19207L (o)



-----Original Message-----

From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net

[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt

Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 1:20 PM

To: Triumphs at autox.team.net

Subject: [TR] Question on installing a Delco 7127 style alternator on a TR4A



Hi List,

I am in the process of installing a Delco 7127 alternator on my TR4A IRS and

I

have a couple of questions. I realize these questions may have been answered

before but here goes and I apologize in advance for any repetition..

1. I am planning on using a  7 inch long 3/8 grade 8 bolt thru the bottom

"pivot bolt hole on the alternator which will allow me to run thru the front

of the alternator at the bottom, thru the front engine mounting plate, and

thru the stock generator mounting bracket with a small piece of pipe fit

inside the generator mounting bracket. This should give me a fairly stout

bottom mount.  Has anybody tried this? Does anybody know of a better way?

2. Where can I get a upper tension bracket that will work on this

installation? I have no idea where my original generator tensioning bracket

and I am not real sure if it would work anyway. I have seen some

installations

that have a chrome or stainless steel bracket which would be my preference

but

anything that works will be OK.



Thanks,

Dave Connitt

'67 Triumph TR4A IRS

http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From tr3abobm77 at verizon.net  Sat Jul 10 18:35:51 2010
From: tr3abobm77 at verizon.net (Triumph)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 20:35:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Steering Wheel Suggestions
Message-ID: <4402426133B2444989E744511D0C8F81@zora>

I put Moss's rack and pinion steering on my 59 TR3A this spring and now I want
to
put a smaller diameter aftermarket steering wheel on it. The 2 common sizes
are
14 and 15 inch. Anyone have any recommendation as to which one? Sitting in the
drivers
seat it doesn't appear that either size would block viewing the speedo or
tach. I also have
TR6 wheels and 195/65 tires but it steers very easy as long as you're moving
just a little.
Thanks for any suggestions.

Bob Maassel
Fort Wayne, IN
1959 TR3A
tr3abobm77 at verizon.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Jul 11 06:26:18 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 08:26:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lucas Master Battery Switch - SSB103 - and other grounding
 questions
In-Reply-To: <8CCEEA0089BCCAB-73C-BDD2@webmail-d072.sysops.aol.com>
References: <mailman.7.1278352802.20169.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CCEEA0089BCCAB-73C-BDD2@webmail-d072.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0BDA6028742E4A459620B40650099B84@CarlPC>

Good morning all - I hope your weekend projects are going as well as mine...

I have an 'earth' side master switch I want to install on my project for a 
combination safety and theft prevention.  see: 
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/144

My plan was to place it on the underside of the dash support bar (steering 
column side) by cutting a hole in upper right (driver's) side of the battery 
box, using a grommet (probably the same one as the wiper) for insulation 
purposes.   Also, I was going to put some heat-shrink insulation on it from 
just before the hole to the connection on the switch.    To make it look 
original (and to hide the fact that there is a switch) - I am going to 
somehow connect a fake end to the firewall above the battery, feeding it 
from the heat shrink portion of the ground cable.

I need to locate a good spot to attach to ground after the switch that won't 
create havoc to instruments, etc under the dash.   Any suggestions?  Pedal 
'box' mounting bolts?

Also, a side affect I hadn't planned on with having both the body tub & 
chassis powder coated - any suggestions on how to insure a good solid 
ground.   Would attaching a  cable (similar to the engine to chassis ground) 
from the tub to the chassis  in a couple places suffice?  Perhaps one at the 
firewall and the other at the back somewhere.  I'd need to grind to metal 
for the connection.

Finally, one of those inquiring mind kind of questions.   The concept of 
electrical current is that there is a circuit coming from the battery to the 
load and back through the 'ground' to the battery to complete the circle. 
If a person touches both sides in a house circuit - you definitely feel it. 
However, if the car metal (chassis/body) is the grounding side - why isn't 
there an issue?  Or am I thinking it through wrong.

As always - thanks for the responses.

Carl

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Jul 11 07:38:02 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 13:38:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Question on installing a Delco 7127 style alternator on a
 TR4A
In-Reply-To: <1559682933.80455.1278855344874.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1928989274.80502.1278855482201.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Just quick couple of things I learned along the way on this.  It's critical to get the pulleys lined up just right and to stabilize the bottom bolt, or else the top bracket will vibrate and crack through.  I destroyed two before I got it right.  

I seem to recall that there were a couple of wiring options.  The one I chose involved buying about three feet of heavy guage power wire to run to the solenoid.  Apparently these come in "big" strand and "little" strand.  The big strand version broke a couple of times at the alternator connector due to vibration.  The little strand version has worked great for two season of daily driving.

That, by the way, is just another reminder of the kind of bugs that restorations innately encounter, and why buying a "restored" car at top dollar might be a frustration, unless from one of those top quality groups who participate here on the List.  

Has anyone ever put together a list of the more common bugs they encountered after putting their restoration on the road?  


Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 11 07:49:33 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 09:49:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lucas Master Battery Switch - SSB103 - and other grounding
 questions
In-Reply-To: <0BDA6028742E4A459620B40650099B84@CarlPC>
References: <mailman.7.1278352802.20169.triumphs@autox.team.net><8CCEEA0089BCCAB-73C-BDD2@webmail-d072.sysops.aol.com>
	<0BDA6028742E4A459620B40650099B84@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <8CCEF17070BF9E4-C3C-E0BD@webmail-d063.sysops.aol.com>

I have an 'earth' side master switch I want to install on my project for a
combination safety and theft prevention.  see:
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/144

My plan was to place it on the underside of the dash support bar (steering
column side) by cutting a hole in upper right (driver's) side of the battery
box, using a grommet (probably the same one as the wiper) for insulation
purposes.   Also, I was going to put some heat-shrink insulation on it from
just before the hole to the connection on the switch.    To make it look
original (and to hide the fact that there is a switch) - I am going to somehow
connect a fake end to the firewall above the battery, feeding it from the heat
shrink portion of the ground cable.

I need to locate a good spot to attach to ground after the switch that won't
create havoc to instruments, etc under the dash.   Any suggestions?  Pedal
'box' mounting bolts?

Also, a side affect I hadn't planned on with having both the body tub &
chassis powder coated - any suggestions on how to insure a good solid ground.
Would attaching a  cable (similar to the engine to chassis ground) from the
tub to the chassis  in a couple places suffice?  Perhaps one at the firewall
and the other at the back somewhere.  I'd need to grind to metal for the
connection.

Finally, one of those inquiring mind kind of questions.   The concept of
electrical current is that there is a circuit coming from the battery to the
load and back through the 'ground' to the battery to complete the circle. If a
person touches both sides in a house circuit - you definitely feel it.
However, if the car metal (chassis/body) is the grounding side - why isn't
there an issue?  Or am I thinking it through wrong.


 I would make the "ground" connection directly to the engine using a battery
cable-sized cable.  The worst case current is starter current so design around
that.  Everything else is trivial.

Powder coating can be an effective insulator.  To ensure a good bonding to
chassis and body use star washers or grind away some of the coating under the
attachment point.  Use dielectric grease to ward off corrosion.  Grounding the
frame is not critical since there are no electrical items grounding to it but
a good ground strap between body and engine is a good idea.

The main difference between auto electrics and your hose wiring is, mainly,
voltage.  Your house is wired for 120 Vac (or 220, depending on where you
live) whereas your car electical system is noly 12 volts.  The impeadance of
the human body is such that 21 volts will not force enough current into the
body to be life threatening.  Not so with your house wiring.  It can kill
you.

This is not necissarilly so with the new hybrid and the comming electric cars.
Some of those have battery systems that run in the hundreds of volts.  The
wiring on those systems will not be so casual as they are on 12 volt systems.
The high voltage wiring will be protected and sequestered away from human
contact as it is in house wiring.  Probably more so.

Cheers,

Dave

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Sun Jul 11 10:22:23 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 11:22:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas Cap Orientation
Message-ID: <B0ED33C4-9851-47AD-B57F-00DAFB888D6D@ties2.net>

I have a reprint of the factory drawings of the TR3, and the top view  
clearly shows the opening tab on the right. But this is, of course a  
right hand drive car. So I would think having it on the left for a  
left hand drive would make sense. That is where mine is.

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Jul 11 10:29:48 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 12:29:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
In-Reply-To: <73cb5.1e858f20.396767ef@cs.com>
References: <73cb5.1e858f20.396767ef@cs.com>
Message-ID: <ggUl1e00C0HYFJw05gUlK9@charter.net>

At 01:42 PM 7/8/2010, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
>This was discussed a couple years back.  What was the concessus on
>cushioning material for mounting the gas tank in a TR3?  Something 
>that would not
>wick up water and stay wet.

In my old VW pickup truck, I used strips cut from an old orange 
traffic cone.  Plenty soft, but sturdy.


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sun Jul 11 12:18:00 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 13:18:00 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 distributor rotor
Message-ID: <1555026157.412407.1278872280465.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>

1972 Triumph TR6.

Distributor rebuilt and new cap and rotor with Petronix under-cap done with Jeff at AdvancedDistributors 12/7/07.  Fantastic job.

Went this weekend to replace the rotor with one provided by TRF that has no rivet.  Pop the cap, the one from TRF is so much shorter on the contact point that I am scared to install it.

Is the rotor different for a Petronix setup?  Am I missing something?

Also, with Petronix under cap, what should be lubricated?

Thanks,

Craig H. Nicholls
72 Triumph TR6

From davidt at opentext.com  Sun Jul 11 13:12:35 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 15:12:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] The lady lives again.....
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4B35@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

.....well almost.  Put the new battery in, it filled the tray almost
perfectly :-).  Made sure the engine turns :-)  then hooked up the
battery and turned the engine over to check on oil pressure ( 65+psi :-)
)  This time turned the ignition on, using a little starter fluif, just
wanted to see if she would catch.  Ignition on, all looks good, turned
her over and nothing, would not catch.  My thought on this is a bad
coil?  Thoughts?  How can I check, or is it, it either works or doesn't?

Woo hoo, almost there

David Templeton
'59 tr3a - has a heartbeat doctor!!!

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Jul 11 14:31:19 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 15:31:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] The lady lives again.....
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4B35@OTWLMX04.opentext .net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4B35@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <20100711203038.BD31918767C@autox.team.net>

You can pull a sparkplug and lay it against something bare metal 
(with the wire attached) to see if you have spark.  If no spark start 
working backwards...  Do the points open?  Check for voltage at the 
coil, etc.  If you have a spare coil laying around (doesn't have to 
be from a Triumph necessarily), you can connect it instead of the 
existing one.  If you put a test lamp on the plus side (or I should 
say battery side, may be positive ground) of the coil, it should 
flash as you turn the engine over - it will be on when the points are 
open and off when they are closed.  If it stays on or off, you know 
you have a problem with the circuit, not with the coil.

- Tony

At 02:12 PM 7/11/2010, David Templeton wrote:
>.....well almost.  Put the new battery in, it filled the tray almost
>perfectly :-).  Made sure the engine turns :-)  then hooked up the
>battery and turned the engine over to check on oil pressure ( 65+psi :-)
>)  This time turned the ignition on, using a little starter fluif, just
>wanted to see if she would catch.  Ignition on, all looks good, turned
>her over and nothing, would not catch.  My thought on this is a bad
>coil?  Thoughts?  How can I check, or is it, it either works or doesn't?
>
>Woo hoo, almost there
>
>David Templeton
>'59 tr3a - has a heartbeat doctor!!!
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Jul 11 14:33:12 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 15:33:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] The lady lives again.....
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4B35@OTWLMX04.opentext .net>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B017A4B35@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <20100711203221.ACA9918767C@autox.team.net>

Furthermore...

Usually the problem is that the timing is off enough to not allow the 
engine to run.  You can set the timing roughly with a test lamp if 
you're running points.

- Tony

At 02:12 PM 7/11/2010, David Templeton wrote:
>.....well almost.  Put the new battery in, it filled the tray almost
>perfectly :-).  Made sure the engine turns :-)  then hooked up the
>battery and turned the engine over to check on oil pressure ( 65+psi :-)
>)  This time turned the ignition on, using a little starter fluif, just
>wanted to see if she would catch.  Ignition on, all looks good, turned
>her over and nothing, would not catch.  My thought on this is a bad
>coil?  Thoughts?  How can I check, or is it, it either works or doesn't?
>
>Woo hoo, almost there
>
>David Templeton
>'59 tr3a - has a heartbeat doctor!!!
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From davidt at opentext.com  Sun Jul 11 14:38:03 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:38:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] The lady lives again.....
In-Reply-To: <msg.2gYFEP9.20100711@otwlpm02.smtp.dmz.opentext.com>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42BE02973@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

I should clarify, she was running like a top when put in the garage, 5yrs ago.
This is the first start in that time.

:-).

David

----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: David Templeton; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun Jul 11 16:33:12 2010
Subject: Re: [TR] The lady lives again.....

Furthermore...

Usually the problem is that the timing is off enough to not allow the
engine to run.  You can set the timing roughly with a test lamp if
you're running points.

- Tony

At 02:12 PM 7/11/2010, David Templeton wrote:
>.....well almost.  Put the new battery in, it filled the tray almost
>perfectly :-).  Made sure the engine turns :-)  then hooked up the
>battery and turned the engine over to check on oil pressure ( 65+psi :-)
>)  This time turned the ignition on, using a little starter fluif, just
>wanted to see if she would catch.  Ignition on, all looks good, turned
>her over and nothing, would not catch.  My thought on this is a bad
>coil?  Thoughts?  How can I check, or is it, it either works or doesn't?
>
>Woo hoo, almost there
>
>David Templeton
>'59 tr3a - has a heartbeat doctor!!!
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 11 14:52:17 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 13:52:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Lucas Mast... other, Changed to Bugs Encountered
Message-ID: <215473.27735.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Message: 6
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 13:38:02 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Question on installing a Delco 7127 style alternator
    on a TR4A

Just quick couple of things I learned along the way on this.  ...

Has anyone ever put together a list of the more common bugs they encountered
after putting their restoration on the road? 
-Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
--------------------------------------------------------
Hi List!
I kept every thing the way it was when I did my restoration, because I wanted
to remember all the 'experiences'  that I had before I took the car off the
road, some 22 yr. earlier.
 
Well one of the experiences that I had I had forgotten was the issues of the
engine turning over.
 
In the 22 yr. of living, I did pick up some general info.
 
The one that I did remember to help me out of this 'experience' was that: the
larger the diameter of the wire, then the easier the current can flow.
 
I changed ALL the large battery cables & starter soliond cables to the largest
I could find. the (-) earth cable is 0 gauge, the (+) power cable& solenoid
cable is 1 gauge made out of the same wire. I then purchased the two different
ends & soldered them to the ends of the cable to to the length that I desired.
Starting is never a problem anymore unless I let the battery drain to low to
get the motor to turn over once (about 1l V , as the gauge reads).

-Cosmo Kramer

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Sun Jul 11 15:06:23 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:06:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas Cap Orientation
Message-ID: <FDAC6DCB-5537-4793-9A27-74956CB5A1FB@ties2.net>

John Wise sent me this scan of an ad showing the gas cab tab on the  
drivers side.

Link: Click here

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Sun Jul 11 15:56:31 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:56:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas CapOrientation
Message-ID: <5CE2F3AE-6708-4080-B750-A683AE108AE4@ties2.net>

Oops, the link to John's scan did not survive. Try this: https:// 
www.me.com/gallery/#100056/Triumph0099

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 20:08:28 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 19:08:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] The lady lives again.....
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42BE02973@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
References: <msg.2gYFEP9.20100711@otwlpm02.smtp.dmz.opentext.com>
	<A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42BE02973@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinRayGztQqU-R3TodQDrDW9eRzNUTpgENkLUCBl@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/11/10, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:
> I should clarify, she was running like a top when put in the garage, 5yrs
> ago...

Then I would definitely start by visually checking the points gap.  I
have had the gap 'disappear' when the car has sat for a long spell
(year+).

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 20:13:02 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 19:13:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 distributor rotor
In-Reply-To: <1555026157.412407.1278872280465.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <1555026157.412407.1278872280465.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinFRESAlGalHenJCkZF7sBzQ1gMz3VL_sKwoXal@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/11/10, thenicholls at verizon.net <thenicholls at verizon.net> wrote:
> 1972 Triumph TR6...
>
> Also, with Petronix under cap, what should be lubricated?

If the 6-cyl are like the 4-cyl then that drop of oil under the rotor
lubes the bushing and possibly the centrifugal advance which I think
are unchanged with a Pertronix.

Obviously, no longer necessary to lube the cam that operated the points.

Geo

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 11 20:59:47 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 02:59:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Looking for Justin Wagner
Message-ID: <927276.18396.qm@web51607.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
 
Sorry for this disruption, list.
 
Justin Wagner please return my E-mail when you can. Because, with my address,
it goes into many peoples 'Spam' mail.

-Cosmo Kramer

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 22:00:27 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:00:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRs in Flagstaff???
Message-ID: <4C3A935B.9020405@gmail.com>

Looks like my TR3 and I are moving into Flagstaff.  Any TRs there?

Teriann

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Jul 11 23:09:35 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 22:09:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRs in Flagstaff???
In-Reply-To: <4C3A935B.9020405@gmail.com>
References: <4C3A935B.9020405@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <59CCD25EB3054743B659F118E5768A3A@joepentiumnew>

There are from time to time.  Flag is the turn-around point for the annual
BEAT (British-European Auto Tour)

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 9:00 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] TRs in Flagstaff???

Looks like my TR3 and I are moving into Flagstaff.  Any TRs there?

Teriann

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Mon Jul 12 04:42:16 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 12:42:16 +0200
Subject: [TR] Question on installing a Delco 7127 style alternator on a
 TR4A
References: <mailman.7.1278352802.20169.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CCEEA0089BCCAB-73C-BDD2@webmail-d072.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <5FCB57F67DC54369AC83CF3745DFCB4B@Study>

>A side note for anyone replacing the TRactor engine generator or doing an
alternator conversion... While you have the car apart, I'm pretty sure one 
or
more of the bolts that holds the lower mounting bracket to the engine 
pierces
all the way through to the engine's water jacket. If that the vibrated loose
and dropped out, the coolant would dump out and the engine will overheat 
very
quickly and badly. Check that those bolts are secure!  <

Actually that lower Dynamo/alternator bracket bolt goes through the side of 
the crankcase. If it vibrates undone whilst underway you will have an oil 
leak which would not shame BP and your engine bay will be rustproofed for 
many moons.

AMHIK,

David Brister,
1967 TR4A 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 12 06:04:39 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 08:04:39 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
Message-ID: <29b29.26b76ba.396c5ed7@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/11/2010 11:28:46 AM Central Daylight Time, 
fishplate at charter.net writes: 
> >This was discussed a couple years back.  What was the concessus on
> >cushioning material for mounting the gas tank in a TR3?  Something 
> >that would not
> >wick up water and stay wet.
> 
> In my old VW pickup truck, I used strips cut from an old orange 
> traffic cone.  Plenty soft, but sturdy.
> 

Good idea, but Orange?  (How tacky)


;-)


Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 12 06:11:46 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 08:11:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 distributor rotor
Message-ID: <2a09d.2dfd877.396c6082@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/11/2010 1:18:12 PM Central Daylight Time, 
thenicholls at verizon.net writes: 
> Went this weekend to replace the rotor with one provided by TRF that has 
> no rivet.  Pop the cap, the one from TRF is so much shorter on the contact 
> point that I am scared to install it.
> 
> Is the rotor different for a Petronix setup?  Am I missing something?
> 
No, but if you got a four cylinder rotor by mistake it will be shorter.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 12 06:17:57 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 08:17:57 EDT
Subject: [TR] Question on installing a Delco 7127 style alternator on a
 TR4A
Message-ID: <2a583.4aebea4c.396c61f5@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/12/2010 5:52:03 AM Central Daylight Time, 
david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes: 
> Actually that lower Dynamo/alternator bracket bolt goes through the side 
> of 
> the crankcase. If it vibrates undone whilst underway you will have an oil 
> leak which would not shame BP and your engine bay will be rustproofed for 
> many moons.
> 

And remember, the "B" does not stand for "British."

At least not any more.

;-)

Cheers

Dave Massey

PS: The wife much appreciates the honey.  Cheers.

From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 12 06:55:17 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 07:55:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR3_Tank_mounting?=
Message-ID: <20100712125412.06E6D187649@autox.team.net>

Ace hardware sells black or brown fiber or rubber washes that work.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Date: Mon, Jul 12, 2010 07:04
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

In a message dated 7/11/2010 11:28:46 AM Central Daylight Time, 
fishplate at charter.net writes: 
> >This was discussed a couple years back.  What was the concessus on
> >cushioning material for mounting the gas tank in a TR3?  Something 
> >that would not
> >wick up water and stay wet.
> 
> In my old VW pickup truck, I used strips cut from an old orange 
> traffic cone.  Plenty soft, but sturdy.
> 

Good idea, but Orange?  (How tacky)


;-)


Dave

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 12 07:08:13 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 09:08:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 Tank mounting
Message-ID: <2e873.815b2b2.396c6dbd@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/12/2010 7:55:06 AM Central Daylight Time, 
spook01 at comcast.net writes: 
> Ace hardware sells black or brown fiber or rubber washes that work.
> 
> 

I'll check it out.  Thanks

Dave

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jul 12 07:31:49 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 13:31:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TRs in Flagstaff???
In-Reply-To: <4C3A935B.9020405@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1291350654.107502.1278941509654.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Dunno about TRs, but I hear Flagstaff is heaven on earth.  Like Minnesota without the mosquitoes.

I could get into that mountain thing.  I was in Park City Utah a week ago and it was gorgeous.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham Super Seven  FOR SALE
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----

> From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 11:00:27 PM
> Subject: [TR] TRs in Flagstaff???
> 
> Looks like my TR3 and I are moving into Flagstaff.  Any TRs there?
> 
> Teriann
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Jul 12 08:21:58 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 07:21:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRs in Flagstaff???
In-Reply-To: <59CCD25EB3054743B659F118E5768A3A@joepentiumnew>
References: <4C3A935B.9020405@gmail.com>
	<59CCD25EB3054743B659F118E5768A3A@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <4C3B2506.1030908@gmail.com>

On 7/11/10 10:09 PM, Joe Curry wrote:
> There are from time to time.  Flag is the turn-around point for the annual
> BEAT (British-European Auto Tour)
>
>    
So mine will be the only TR3 living there?  Oh well, I guess it is a 
matter of Triumphs taking back the world one city at a time.  At least I 
won't loose the TR in a parking lot full of TRs.

Teriann

From peter at nosimport.com  Mon Jul 12 08:32:20 2010
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 09:32:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Generator/Dynamo question
In-Reply-To: <002801cb1fb3$07f73680$17e5a380$@rr.com>
References: <4CD6CFF7401C45A4976E89AEF642F232@bboffice>
	<20100709133065.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
	<002801cb1fb3$07f73680$17e5a380$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <201007120732852.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Randall, that "new" number is actually Lucas USA's own number in 
their US remanufactured product line. Some of which they actually 
did, and some of which was subbed out. As I said, lots of generators 
were freely interchanged, and many components would interchange, but not all.
         Peter C
==
At 05:06 PM 7/9/2010, Randall wrote:
> > Hmmmm just checked my old Lucas reference.. your car should have a
> > 22258  which is interchangeable with the above units.
>
>Just for chuckles, I found that all the following Lucas numbers interchange
>to the same "new" number (G4012):
>
>22250
>22258
>22272
>22295
>22297
>22700
>22704
>22705
>22708
>22715
>22725
>22742
>22748
>22754
>22767
>22775
>22785
>22789
>
>But as noted, most of these will have the later "Lucar" connections instead
>of the earlier studs/nuts.  To deal with that issue, I would suggest just
>replacing the short 2-wire sub-harness from the generator to the control
>box, with one that has suitable connections on each end.  It tends to get
>fried with heat anyway, so chances are that your old one is in poor
>condition.
>
>The 3/8" quick connects used for the output terminal are getting a bit
>harder to find, but my local electronics shop still has them on the shelf,
>and it appears that Digi-Key will sell you a strip of 10 for under $4:
>http://tinyurl.com/y9ma9u2
>
>-- Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Jul 12 11:14:11 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 13:14:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuilders
Message-ID: <201007121314.12779.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hi,

I seem to remember that there was an Ebay seller that had an ad for side 
curtain rebuilding located somewhere in the North East, maybe Mass or Conn.

I believe the  price was around 650$. Anyone know the sellers id or a website?

Thanks,

Bob

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Mon Jul 12 18:23:19 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 20:23:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ramping things up
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946183@CMS01.winhosting.local>

I'm looking at renting a new place for work. Sort of post-nuclear industrial
wasteland theme. Room for desks all in a row with nice tidy chains and place
for a overseer with the charming title of "Oarator"...

Additionally, the prospective sites all have the advantage of a garage door at
the back of a large open area. So, I thought of the great advantage of being
able to drive the LBC to work and parking it inside. Safe, tidy and even good
for winter storage. Unfortunately all the doors are at loading dock height,
not ground level. Is there a sort of standard steel ramp that one can buy and
mis-label as "photocopying supplies" that would let me drive in?

Mark
1972 TR6

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Mon Jul 12 18:46:42 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 17:46:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 instrument mounting
In-Reply-To: <201007092121.17810.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <4C37A140.80207@execulink.com>
	<201007092121.17810.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <FBEA5216-D32F-4C2D-932E-8C141DB1EBA7@roadrunner.com>

>> A question about mounting the instruments and the use of "O" rings. I
>> ordered a set of "O" rings from TRF and understand they fit between  
>> the
>> instrument bezel and the dash panel. Is there any type of sealing
>> between the glass and instrument case? I removed my temp gauge and
>> couldn't find any remnants of a gasket between the bezel and dash. It
>> looked as though there was something between the glass and the case -
>> just found some black remnants.



Angelo, when I overhauled mine I found remnants  of rather thin o- 
rings in the bezel. I found  some in the  Ace hardware store in the  
plumbing section (sprinkler  repair parts, I  think) that were thin  
enough but slightly too large in diameter. Since a complete seal is  
not necessary, I cut out a section to make it fit. That worked   
perfectly. It is lot less messy than some sort of liquid sealer.

Hans

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Mon Jul 12 18:57:00 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 17:57:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuilders
In-Reply-To: <201007121314.12779.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201007121314.12779.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <0EBA0A69-38AA-4A88-818B-C7B515D9F40C@roadrunner.com>

Bob, TRF has them on sale for $615, including shipping, if not  
oversize for ups.
Hans



On Jul 12, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Bob wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I seem to remember that there was an Ebay seller that had an ad for  
> side
> curtain rebuilding located somewhere in the North East, maybe Mass  
> or Conn.
>
> I believe the  price was around 650$. Anyone know the sellers id or  
> a website?

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Jul 12 19:10:36 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:10:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] Ramping things up
Message-ID: <1e61c.631aa50f.396d170c@aol.com>

Hi Mark;
 
All I can think of are those ramps that car dealers seem to use to display  
their cars on the forecourt sometimes, at an abnormal height. I tried to 
rent  one once from a dealer,  because I measured the height of one to be the  
same as a loading dock. I was shipping a pair of project TR3A's to a Danish 
 purchaser, and he'd arranged for a shipping company to arrive with a 
container  truck that had a loading-dock-height floor.
 
I wasn't able to rent such a device from a dealer, but it was clear from  
the design that this would work. YOu might want to tour the dealerships to 
see  who's displaying a car at a lofty height out the front, then check out 
the  device and see where you might buy one.
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Mon Jul 12 19:16:17 2010
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:16:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuilders
Message-ID: <9cc18.52a70e9.396d1861@aol.com>

Hi,

I seem to remember that there was an Ebay seller that  had an ad for side 
curtain rebuilding located somewhere in the North East,  maybe Mass or Conn.




Bob:
I will always beat the drum for Larry Learn in Indiana, Pennsylvania.   
Before TRF switched to the Magic Carpet for sidecurtain rebuilding, Larry did  
all for several years.  Have no idea what he now charges but he is without  
doubt the best of the best.  Find Larry at 724-465-8661.  To his  credit 
there is no web site or email - to busy to troll the  Internet. 
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
 



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/loumetelko at aol.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 12 19:42:24 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:42:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] Ramping things up
Message-ID: <8dc2a.51170e80.396d1e80@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/12/2010 7:46:25 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: 
> Additionally, the prospective sites all have the advantage of a garage 
> door at
> the back of a large open area. So, I thought of the great advantage of 
> being
> able to drive the LBC to work and parking it inside. Safe, tidy and even 
> good
> for winter storage. Unfortunately all the doors are at loading dock 
> height,
> not ground level. Is there a sort of standard steel ramp that one can buy 
> and
> mis-label as "photocopying supplies" that would let me drive in?
> 

Unfortunately most everything I find is way overkill for a TR6.

http://loadingdocksupply.com/steel_yard_ramps

And way more than you are likely to be able to hide as Photocopy supplies.  
You could propably buy a forklift for less and use it to pick the car up 
and set it on the dock.

Way more fun, too.

Dave

From agraham at execulink.com  Mon Jul 12 19:46:35 2010
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:46:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 alternator conversion & belt length.
Message-ID: <4C3BC57B.8000604@execulink.com>

Hello Listers:
Just finishing up an alternator conversion - used a generic AC Delco 
7127. I used my old generator pulley with a bit of machining on the AC 
Delco. Tried to fit a new belt and far too short. Pulled the alternator 
as close to the block as possible and still many inches short.
Not sure if this is a "standard" problem, as the larger o/d of the 
alternator requires a longer belt?
I had a new Gates segmented belt (groves cut across the belt width). 
Just wondering how common 3/4" belts are in various lengths? Anyone have 
a similar issue using the stock pulley and an AC Delco? Any idea of the 
belt length required?
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Mon Jul 12 20:16:13 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 22:16:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ramping things up
In-Reply-To: <8dc2a.51170e80.396d1e80@cs.com>
References: <8dc2a.51170e80.396d1e80@cs.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946184@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Dave:

Now that is overkill!

I searched un "loading dock ramp" and came up with things starting at $2000".
Tha's getting closer to the level I had in mind.

Cheers,

Mark


________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com [Dave1massey at cs.com]
Sent: July 12, 2010 9:42 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Ramping things up

In a message dated 7/12/2010 7:46:25 PM Central Daylight Time,
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes:
> Additionally, the prospective sites all have the advantage of a garage
> door at
> the back of a large open area. So, I thought of the great advantage of
> being
> able to drive the LBC to work and parking it inside. Safe, tidy and even
> good
> for winter storage. Unfortunately all the doors are at loading dock
> height,
> not ground level. Is there a sort of standard steel ramp that one can buy
> and
> mis-label as "photocopying supplies" that would let me drive in?
>

Unfortunately most everything I find is way overkill for a TR6.

http://loadingdocksupply.com/steel_yard_ramps

And way more than you are likely to be able to hide as Photocopy supplies.
You could propably buy a forklift for less and use it to pick the car up
and set it on the dock.

Way more fun, too.

Dave

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Mon Jul 12 20:19:18 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 22:19:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ramping things up
In-Reply-To: <1e61c.631aa50f.396d170c@aol.com>
References: <1e61c.631aa50f.396d170c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946185@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Thanks for the input Tim; There are a few shuttered car dealerships nearby. I
wonder if they have something useful.

Cheers,

Mark



________________________________
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com [KingsCreekTrees at aol.com]
Sent: July 12, 2010 9:10 PM
To: Mark Hooper; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Ramping things up

Hi Mark;

All I can think of are those ramps that car dealers seem to use to display
their cars on the forecourt sometimes, at an abnormal height. I tried to rent
one once from a dealer,  because I measured the height of one to be the same
as a loading dock. I was shipping a pair of project TR3A's to a Danish
purchaser, and he'd arranged for a shipping company to arrive with a container
truck that had a loading-dock-height floor.

I wasn't able to rent such a device from a dealer, but it was clear from the
design that this would work. YOu might want to tour the dealerships to see
who's displaying a car at a lofty height out the front, then check out the
device and see where you might buy one.

Tim

Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A 1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website:
www.kingscreektrees.com<http://www.kingscreektrees.com/>

Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture
professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa
Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the
Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Tue Jul 13 00:59:55 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (HANS DEFERRANTE)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 23:59:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Spring-back Side Mirrors
Message-ID: <EC6A4C53-51B2-4EC9-A65E-8B36B5B954E3@roadrunner.com>

Hi Dennis,
Yes, I remember now, it was you I saw with those mirrors on "Cathy's  
drive". I wrote an e-mail to the Tex people 4 days ago inquiring  
about price and shipping. The only supplier I could find was in the  
UK. It showed the various types and part numbers, but no prices.  I  
haven't heard back from them. Do you know if there is another supplier?


Thanks, Hans





> One other thing: a couple of weeks ago you asked about spring-back  
> mirrors
> for the 3.  I have those on my car and love them; they save a LOT of
> adjusting.  The mirrors are Tex brand and can be ordered on the web

From don at napanet.net  Tue Jul 13 10:41:01 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 09:41:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A questions
In-Reply-To: <59CCD25EB3054743B659F118E5768A3A@joepentiumnew>
References: <4C3A935B.9020405@gmail.com>
	<59CCD25EB3054743B659F118E5768A3A@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <20100713173100.A94B724BA75@mail.napanet.net>

>I recently purchased a TR4A.  Although I've had a lot of British 
>cars, I haven't had but two TRs, and they were TR8s.

My car needs a new windshield gasket- best supplier for this?  Best 
to have it professionally installed?  I have not attempted this type 
of repair since I broke the windshield I tried to install on my '57 
English Ford Zodiac back in 1966.

The original white convertible top is a bit tatty.  I'd like to 
either get it repaired or find a top that is identical to what I 
believe is the factory one on the car.  Any suggestions?

Some of the wiring under the bonnet has been redone by others.  I 
believe that the cars had blue tape wrapped around the wiring to 
consolidate the wires where they were bundled together.  Is there a 
source for this tape?

The windlace on the driver's door opening has suffered from some 
wear.  What is a source for this that is like the original?  The 
passenger side is still intact, so would prefer to find matching 
windlace rather than replace both sides.

Thanks for any help you can give me!

Don Scott
Calistoga CA  

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Tue Jul 13 13:28:20 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:28:20 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rear Axle Hub Rebuild
Message-ID: <24da2.306bf0d0.396e1854@aol.com>

It has been many years since I needed to have a (TR4A-TR6) rear axle hub 
rebuilt.   
Any recommendations?   Thanks!
George

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Jul 13 16:37:33 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 18:37:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A questions
In-Reply-To: <20100713173100.A94B724BA75@mail.napanet.net>
References: <4C3A935B.9020405@gmail.com>
	<59CCD25EB3054743B659F118E5768A3A@joepentiumnew>
	<20100713173100.A94B724BA75@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <201007131837.34193.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday, July 13, 2010 12:41:01 pm don wrote:
> >I recently purchased a TR4A.  Although I've had a lot of British
> >cars, I haven't had but two TRs, and they were TR8s.
> 
> My car needs a new windshield gasket- best supplier for this?  Best
> to have it professionally installed?  I have not attempted this type
> of repair since I broke the windshield I tried to install on my '57
> English Ford Zodiac back in 1966.
> 
> The original white convertible top is a bit tatty.  I'd like to
> either get it repaired or find a top that is identical to what I
> believe is the factory one on the car.  Any suggestions?
> 
> Some of the wiring under the bonnet has been redone by others.  I
> believe that the cars had blue tape wrapped around the wiring to
> consolidate the wires where they were bundled together.  Is there a
> source for this tape?
> 
> The windlace on the driver's door opening has suffered from some
> wear.  What is a source for this that is like the original?  The
> passenger side is still intact, so would prefer to find matching
> windlace rather than replace both sides.
> 
> Thanks for any help you can give me!
> 
> Don Scott
> Calistoga CA
> 
Don,

Not much help on the top but I sourced both new windshield glass and the 
rubber gaskets from TRF for both my 4 and 6. I then took the glass, gasket and 
the plastic chrome piece to my local auto class shop and they installed them 
for about 80$ each. You can do the install yourself but when I tried it I 
cracked the glass. For me it is something best left for the experts.

For my 4 I was able to get a NOS AMCO top on ebay for about 100$. The seller 
said it was about 10 years old but it was NIB and he was right and the fit was 
perfect. I think I did see a white 4A one on ebay a few weeks ago for about 
250

Bob

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Tue Jul 13 17:51:38 2010
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 19:51:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A questions
Message-ID: <35bf0.6b7b613b.396e560a@aol.com>

Some of the wiring under the bonnet has been redone by others.  I  
believe that the cars had blue tape wrapped around the wiring to  
consolidate the wires where they were bundled together.  Is there a  
source for this tape?


Don:
According to TRA's Concours Guide the TR4 had a bright blue tape for the  
wiring harness while the 4A had a black wrap.  Do yourself a favor Don, by  
replaceing all of the wires!  If you have noticed some of the wires redone  
there will be plenty more that you just have not found yet.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
TRA in Fort Wayne, Indiana for  2011

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 13 18:39:51 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 17:39:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] ramping things up
Message-ID: <336605.53760.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Just a thought.
Where do the old car transporters go when they meet they're maker?  there should 
be loads of them in salvage yards some place.  It seems a person could get 
several of those old used ramps for a song.............or two.lol

gary n.

From trglory at verizon.net  Tue Jul 13 19:21:41 2010
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 21:21:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A questions
In-Reply-To: <35bf0.6b7b613b.396e560a@aol.com>
References: <35bf0.6b7b613b.396e560a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00cc01cb22f2$eac1a3a0$c044eae0$@net>

Don;

British Wiring is the place to go for wiring harnesses. See
www.BritishWiring.com

I put their harness in my TR3a and it is identical to the OEM part.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 7:52 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A questions

Some of the wiring under the bonnet has been redone by others.  I  
believe that the cars had blue tape wrapped around the wiring to  
consolidate the wires where they were bundled together.  Is there a  
source for this tape?


Don:
According to TRA's Concours Guide the TR4 had a bright blue tape for the  
wiring harness while the 4A had a black wrap.  Do yourself a favor Don, by  
replaceing all of the wires!  If you have noticed some of the wires redone  
there will be plenty more that you just have not found yet.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
TRA in Fort Wayne, Indiana for  2011

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jul 13 20:19:00 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 22:19:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear Axle Hub Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <24da2.306bf0d0.396e1854@aol.com>
References: <24da2.306bf0d0.396e1854@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0A2102BF54144904AC23D6ACF71F3F4F@BobPC>

George..............in the 6-Pack Forum the general consensus is to go with 
the hubs that  Goodparts is supplying.  You have a choice of hubs, 
hubs/axles and CVJs. All new and  better then rebuilding.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:28 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Rear Axle Hub Rebuild

> It has been many years since I needed to have a (TR4A-TR6) rear axle hub
> rebuilt.
> Any recommendations?   Thanks!
> George
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Tue Jul 13 20:34:42 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 22:34:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Questions
Message-ID: <4C3D2242.1080000@gmail.com>

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 09:41:01 -0700
From: don<don at napanet.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A questions
To:triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID:<20100713173100.A94B724BA75 at mail.napanet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Don,

I replaced the windshield gasket with one from The Roadster Factory (TRF), the quality is good.  I got it installed fine, but IT IS NOT EASY.  You may want to consider professionals.  I didn't find any "good" way, but can give you tips if you decide you want to try it.

I also have a white top on my car (white w/red interior).  I used a Robbins top from TRF and I'm happy with it, but I wouldn't say its a great representation of original.  The interior lining is black, where the original tops were a tan canvas material.  There is a company (EZ-ON) that is making tops that I'm told are based on the AMCO tops that were popular replacements tops in the 70s.  Some like them better.

Can't help with the door weatherstripping.  I used the newer TR6 style one piece style from TRF, but I'm told they sell the original style as well.

Good luck, Ben.....

-- 
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300


Don said:

My car needs a new windshield gasket- best supplier for this?  Best
to have it professionally installed?  I have not attempted this type
of repair since I broke the windshield I tried to install on my '57
English Ford Zodiac back in 1966.

The original white convertible top is a bit tatty.  I'd like to
either get it repaired or find a top that is identical to what I
believe is the factory one on the car.  Any suggestions?

Some of the wiring under the bonnet has been redone by others.  I
believe that the cars had blue tape wrapped around the wiring to
consolidate the wires where they were bundled together.  Is there a
source for this tape?

The windlace on the driver's door opening has suffered from some
wear.  What is a source for this that is like the original?  The
passenger side is still intact, so would prefer to find matching
windlace rather than replace both sides.

Thanks for any help you can give me!

Don Scott
Calistoga CA

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Jul 14 05:51:36 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 07:51:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A questions
In-Reply-To: <35bf0.6b7b613b.396e560a@aol.com>
References: <35bf0.6b7b613b.396e560a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <201007140751.37764.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Don,

Moss sells the bright blue harness tape. I used it to re-do the harness on my 
63 4.

Bob

From mntr3a at aol.com  Wed Jul 14 06:34:29 2010
From: mntr3a at aol.com (mntr3a at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 08:34:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr4 top
Message-ID: <8CCF16809D38BD5-DB0-7C77@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>

 I'm looking for a white TR 4 Top.
Patrick 612-388-0505  Mpls. Mn.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Jul 14 10:03:33 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:03:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Zipper Window Top
Message-ID: <AANLkTinOuBTYd0F4JyBZtlWTI0QRkIKs5916S-OQmzn0@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone found a source for a TR4 top with a zippered rear window?

I thought this would be something my local upholstery shop could do
(to my nearly new top) w/o much fuss but they won't touch it.

I have considered doing something myself using Velcro instead of a
zipper as rain is so seldom and most of the time the widnow would be
out, but Velcro (literally) sounds so cheesy.

Geo

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 14 10:38:24 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:38:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 alternator conversion & belt length.
In-Reply-To: <4C3BC57B.8000604@execulink.com>
References: <4C3BC57B.8000604@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <462210.37344.qm@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Angelo
i did the same thing and machined my old pulley.
before installing the
alternator i tucked the belt on, and then preceded to bold 
up the alternator
to the brackets.
i would warn you that just using one bolt through the front
bracket of the 
alternator will probably lead to problems. you really do need
to fabricate a 
rear bracket. what happens is when you tension the belt you
pull/twist the 
alternator out of alignment.
good luck
frank
________________________________
From: Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, July 12, 2010 6:46:35 PM
Subject: [TR]
TR2/3 alternator conversion & belt length.

Hello Listers:
Just finishing up
an alternator conversion - used a generic AC Delco 7127. I 
used my old
generator pulley with a bit of machining on the AC Delco. Tried to 
fit a new
belt and far too short. Pulled the alternator as close to the block as
possible and still many inches short.
Not sure if this is a "standard"
problem, as the larger o/d of the alternator 
requires a longer belt?
I had a
new Gates segmented belt (groves cut across the belt width). Just 
wondering
how common 3/4" belts are in various lengths? Anyone have a similar 
issue
using the stock pulley and an AC Delco? Any idea of the belt length 
required?
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 14 10:39:38 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:39:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A questions
In-Reply-To: <00cc01cb22f2$eac1a3a0$c044eae0$@net>
References: <35bf0.6b7b613b.396e560a@aol.com>
	<00cc01cb22f2$eac1a3a0$c044eae0$@net>
Message-ID: <936418.68364.qm@web120007.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

here here, on british wiring
Frank




________________________________
From:
Joe Laurito <trglory at verizon.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc:
Loumetelko at aol.com
Sent: Tue, July 13, 2010 6:21:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A
questions

Don;

British Wiring is the place to go for wiring harnesses. See
www.BritishWiring.com

I put their harness in my TR3a and it is identical to
the OEM part.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From:
triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 7:52 PM
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A questions

Some of the wiring
under the bonnet has been redone by others.  I  
believe that the cars had
blue tape wrapped around the wiring to  
consolidate the wires where they were
bundled together.  Is there a  
source for this tape?


Don:
According to
TRA's Concours Guide the TR4 had a bright blue tape for the  
wiring harness
while the 4A had a black wrap.  Do yourself a favor Don, by  
replaceing all
of the wires!  If you have noticed some of the wires redone  
there will be
plenty more that you just have not found yet.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
TRA
in Fort Wayne, Indiana for  2011
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 14 11:34:37 2010
From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 13:34:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Belt for alternator TR3A
Message-ID: <000e01cb237a$d624f680$826ee380$@net>

Angelo,

Forgive me if this has already been addressed, I'm on Digest Mode, but.

I also went with an AC/Delco.  CarQuest machined out the hole in the
generator pulley for me for about $20.

The original belt was now too short but what works for me is a cogged Gates
TR24379 Green Stripe II Belt 17A0960

Cheers,

Adrian

TS58324

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Wed Jul 14 15:27:09 2010
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 17:27:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Zipper Window Top
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1279130402.21066.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1279130402.21066.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CCF1B2737F621C-B60-4630@webmail-m050.sysops.aol.com>

Hi Geo,

TR4 was never available with a zippered rear window (the way some of the later
models were). I've never seen an aftermarket top fitted with one, either.

It's going to be a custom job. I'd suggest talking to some more upholstery
shops until you find one that will make the modification. Once you find one,
ask to see some of their work to be sure you are happy with it.

Alan Myers
San Jose, California
amfoto1 at aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L
www.triumphowners.com/640



-----Original Message-----

Message: 10
ate: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:03:33 -0700
rom: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
ubject: [TR] To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
essage-ID:
   <AANLkTinOuBTYd0F4JyBZtlWTI0QRkIKs5916S-OQmzn0 at mail.gmail.com>
ontent-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Anyone found a source for a TR4 top with a zippered rear window?
I thought this would be something my local upholstery shop could do
to my nearly new top) w/o much fuss but they won't touch it.
I have considered doing something myself using Velcro instead of a
ipper as rain is so seldom and most of the time the widnow would be
ut, but Velcro (literally) sounds so cheesy.
Geo

-----------------------------

From coefront at shaw.ca  Wed Jul 14 16:01:15 2010
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 16:01:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR8 Starter
Message-ID: <2E24384CA9014D2589C3946A012C36B2@coe>

TR8 starter for sale. $ 100.00 o.b.o. Both it and the solenoid are great. I've
installed the newer model. Mike C. at Calgary. Alberta. coefront at shaw.ca

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Jul 14 16:00:12 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 22:00:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuilders
In-Reply-To: <201007121314.12779.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <677018764.42342.1279144812118.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I seem to remember that there was an Ebay seller that had an ad for side 
>curtain rebuilding located somewhere in the North East, maybe Mass or Conn.

I think TRF did mine using the same material I had ordered my top in.  They did a great job.  Don't remember the price and am too lazy to go through my box of receipts.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Jul 14 16:57:30 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 18:57:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuilders
References: <677018764.42342.1279144812118.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1949FB8855234F4FAD6BD8199E6F8266@DCS78M81>

TRF did mine, too. Did a nice job, but make sure that you fit them to the 
car - all bends and tweaks need to be made to the metal frame before they 
are covered.
Tom
60 TR3A
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag

: Re: [TR] side curtain rebuilders


> >I seem to remember that there was an Ebay seller that had an ad for side
>>curtain rebuilding located somewhere in the North East, maybe Mass or 
>>Conn.
>
> I think TRF did mine using the same material I had ordered my top in. 
> They did a great job.  Don't remember the price and am too lazy to go 
> through my box of receipts.
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire

From rcrabbe at sympatico.ca  Wed Jul 14 17:18:18 2010
From: rcrabbe at sympatico.ca (Richard Crabbe)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 19:18:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Moto lita steering wheel
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP81D5E923B80863DAA1B543D6BA0@phx.gbl>

I had taken my dash apart to put in a new one.

Upon taking my Moto Lita steering wheel apart and the Hub I managed stupidly
to break the small white plastic pencil contact for the horn.

I had contacted Moto for a replacement and the 5 Lbs ($10)did not bother me
but the 24 Lbs ($50 ) cdn for the shipping did by UPS.

We are talking an item that has no weight and can be shipped in a pill
bottle.

My experience with UPS is the $ 30 Brokerage fee  charge on top.

Does anyone know of a US or CDN distributor to contact for this item.

 

Crabby

From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 14 18:38:12 2010
From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (Rod)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 17:38:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 alternator conversion & belt length.
In-Reply-To: <462210.37344.qm@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <4C3BC57B.8000604@execulink.com>
	<462210.37344.qm@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C3E5874.3000505@sbcglobal.net>

Frank Fisher wrote:
> Angelo
> i did the same thing and machined my old pulley.
> before installing the
> alternator i tucked the belt on, and then preceded to bold 
> up the alternator
> to the brackets.
> i would warn you that just using one bolt through the front
> bracket of the 
> alternator will probably lead to problems. you really do need
> to fabricate a 
> rear bracket. what happens is when you tension the belt you
> pull/twist the 
> alternator out of alignment.
> good luck
> frank
> ________________________________
> From: Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Mon, July 12, 2010 6:46:35 PM
> Subject: [TR]
> TR2/3 alternator conversion & belt length.
>
> Hello Listers:
> Just finishing up
> an alternator conversion - used a generic AC Delco 7127. I 
> used my old
> generator pulley with a bit of machining on the AC Delco. Tried to 
> fit a new
> belt and far too short. Pulled the alternator as close to the block as
> possible and still many inches short.
> Not sure if this is a "standard"
> problem, as the larger o/d of the alternator 
> requires a longer belt?
> I had a
> new Gates segmented belt (groves cut across the belt width). Just 
> wondering
> how common 3/4" belts are in various lengths? Anyone have a similar 
> issue
> using the stock pulley and an AC Delco? Any idea of the belt length 
> required?
> Thanks for any help with this.
> Angelo Graham
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
>   
Has anyone tried using a universal alternator bracket such as the A200 
from alternatorparts.com
I have seen the same bracket on a couple of other web sites as well.  It 
bolts to the two existing generator mounting holes and then the 
alternator mounts to the bracket.  It appears to be adjustable for 
aligning the pulleys.

I did the same as most other seem to have done and mounted the 
alternator at the front generator mount and used a long bolt and spacer 
to capture the rear generator mount hole as well.  This also required 
machining the alternator mounting ear to align the pulleys

My main concern in looking at the picture of the A200 bracket is it may 
mount the alternator higher, I just can't tell how much.

Rod Trunnell
TCF1034l

From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca  Wed Jul 14 18:49:30 2010
From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (=?iso-8859-1?Q?TR6Qu=E9bec?=)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 20:49:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear Axle Hub Rebuild (GHaynesTR4@aol.com)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1279130402.21066.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1279130402.21066.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7A3CA6CD11E24815BE351B28635E371E@robertlaptop>

Hi George,

It's been a vivid subject on the 6-Pack forum....

We almost agreed that new one's is the only way to go and for a very small $ 
difference.

Going with 30-40 y.o. metal is playing with the devil....

RG's are the best so we think!

Robert
TR6Quebec




>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:28:20 EDT
> From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com
> Subject: [TR] Rear Axle Hub Rebuild
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <24da2.306bf0d0.396e1854 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> It has been many years since I needed to have a (TR4A-TR6) rear axle hub
> rebuilt.
> Any recommendations?   Thanks!
> George

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Wed Jul 14 19:02:29 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 21:02:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Caliper Rebuild & Heater Pipe Questions
Message-ID: <CAC3B146EF3344A7BC89C9D50DCEBF20@TRGUY>

First, I am in the processing of rebuilding my 62 TR4 calipers.  What is on
the car is a 16P caliper with locking pins for the brake pads.  I have new
stainless pistons and rebuild kits from TRF. The pistons are now out.  What is
the best way to clean/refresh the piston chambers in the calipers?  Should I
remove the bolts and split the caliper halves?

Secondly, I am replacing the heater water pipe that runs from the water pump
housing to the back of the engine near the heater valve.  The old one was an
aluminum replacement and it was shot.  It had a flared end that fit into the
water pump housing and secured by the nut with the center opening.  The new
stainless replacement has a normal "cut" end pipe without a flared end.  How
do I attach this to the pump housing with the nut when it doesn't have a
flared end?

Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
Mailtand, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Jul 14 19:54:12 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 19:54:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Moto lita steering wheel
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP81D5E923B80863DAA1B543D6BA0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP81D5E923B80863DAA1B543D6BA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C3E6A44.5020604@bradakis.com>

> My experience with UPS is the $ 30 Brokerage fee  charge on top.
>
>    

Surely someone on the list can purchase the part and use the
Postal Service to get it to you for a LOT less than UPS would
charge.

mjb.

From tom628 at verizon.net  Wed Jul 14 20:35:12 2010
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 22:35:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Zipper Window Top
References: <mailman.6.1279130402.21066.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CCF1B2737F621C-B60-4630@webmail-m050.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <19A23F066434439DA5FA4447E1FC8A1D@Toms>

Alan:  I bought my 64 TR4 new, and it came with a zippered rear window.
When I finally had to replace the top, the new one also had a zippered 
window.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Myers" <amfoto1 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2010 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Zipper Window Top


> Hi Geo,
>
> TR4 was never available with a zippered rear window (the way some of the 
> later
> models were). I've never seen an aftermarket top fitted with one, either.
>
> It's going to be a custom job. I'd suggest talking to some more upholstery
> shops until you find one that will make the modification. Once you find 
> one,
> ask to see some of their work to be sure you are happy with it.
>
> Alan Myers
> San Jose, California
> amfoto1 at aol.com
> '62 TR4 CT17602L
> www.triumphowners.com/640
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Message: 10
> ate: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:03:33 -0700
> rom: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> ubject: [TR] To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> essage-ID:
>   <AANLkTinOuBTYd0F4JyBZtlWTI0QRkIKs5916S-OQmzn0 at mail.gmail.com>
> ontent-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> Anyone found a source for a TR4 top with a zippered rear window?
> I thought this would be something my local upholstery shop could do
> to my nearly new top) w/o much fuss but they won't touch it.
> I have considered doing something myself using Velcro instead of a
> ipper as rain is so seldom and most of the time the widnow would be
> ut, but Velcro (literally) sounds so cheesy.
> Geo
>
> -----------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 14 23:06:01 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 22:06:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Caliper Rebuild & Heater Pipe Questions
In-Reply-To: <CAC3B146EF3344A7BC89C9D50DCEBF20@TRGUY>
References: <CAC3B146EF3344A7BC89C9D50DCEBF20@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <3E6125BC5C464620928A59104E588BBF@Meislaptop>

> Should I
> remove the bolts and split the caliper halves?

Many people do, although Girling said specifically not to.  Note that there
is a sealing ring between the halves that should be replaced if you do split
them.  It's available separately, not included in the seal kit.

> How
> do I attach this to the pump housing with the nut when it doesn't have a
> flared end?

The original setup had an iron adapter fitting between the housing and tube,
with pipe threads into the housing and a compression sleeve to grab the
tube.  You need that fitting or an equivalent.

Randall

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Thu Jul 15 04:45:31 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 06:45:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Caliper Rebuild & Heater Pipe Questions
In-Reply-To: <3E6125BC5C464620928A59104E588BBF@Meislaptop>
References: <CAC3B146EF3344A7BC89C9D50DCEBF20@TRGUY>
	<3E6125BC5C464620928A59104E588BBF@Meislaptop>
Message-ID: <56D80656676A4C28B449E778D6F8C4A7@TRGUY>

Randall:
Thanks for the info!
Jim Henningsen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>; "'list Triumph'" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 1:06 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4 Caliper Rebuild & Heater Pipe Questions


>> Should I
>> remove the bolts and split the caliper halves?
>
> Many people do, although Girling said specifically not to.  Note that 
> there
> is a sealing ring between the halves that should be replaced if you do 
> split
> them.  It's available separately, not included in the seal kit.
>
>> How
>> do I attach this to the pump housing with the nut when it doesn't have a
>> flared end?
>
> The original setup had an iron adapter fitting between the housing and 
> tube,
> with pipe threads into the housing and a compression sleeve to grab the
> tube.  You need that fitting or an equivalent.
>
> Randall

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 15 10:11:41 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 09:11:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 alternator conversion & belt length.
In-Reply-To: <4C3E5874.3000505@sbcglobal.net>
References: <4C3BC57B.8000604@execulink.com>
	<462210.37344.qm@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4C3E5874.3000505@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <52797.10197.qm@web120016.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Rod
i see no advantage to using that bracket.
the big problem is that the
rear mounting hole on the delco is not in line (in 
plane) with the front
mounting hole. custom bracket is needed to bring things 
back in line.
frank
________________________________
From: Rod <rgt2 at sbcglobal.net>
To: Frank
Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Cc: Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com>;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, July 14, 2010 5:38:12 PM
Subject: Re: [TR]
TR2/3 alternator conversion & belt length.

Frank Fisher wrote:
> Angelo
> i
did the same thing and machined my old pulley.
> before installing the
>
alternator i tucked the belt on, and then preceded to bold up the alternator
>
to the brackets.
> i would warn you that just using one bolt through the front
> bracket of the alternator will probably lead to problems. you really do need
> to fabricate a rear bracket. what happens is when you tension the belt you
>
pull/twist the alternator out of alignment.
> good luck
> frank
>
________________________________
> From: Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Mon, July 12, 2010 6:46:35 PM
> Subject:
[TR]
> TR2/3 alternator conversion & belt length.
> 
> Hello Listers:
> Just
finishing up
> an alternator conversion - used a generic AC Delco 7127. I used
my old
> generator pulley with a bit of machining on the AC Delco. Tried to
fit a new
> belt and far too short. Pulled the alternator as close to the
block as
> possible and still many inches short.
> Not sure if this is a
"standard"
> problem, as the larger o/d of the alternator requires a longer
belt?
> I had a
> new Gates segmented belt (groves cut across the belt width).
Just wondering
> how common 3/4" belts are in various lengths? Anyone have a
similar issue
> using the stock pulley and an AC Delco? Any idea of the belt
length required?
> Thanks for any help with this.
> Angelo Graham
>
_______________________________________________
> 
> 
> 
>  
Has anyone tried
using a universal alternator bracket such as the A200 from
alternatorparts.com
I have seen the same bracket on a couple of other web
sites as well.  It bolts 
to the two existing generator mounting holes and
then the alternator mounts to 
the bracket.  It appears to be adjustable for
aligning the pulleys.

I did the same as most other seem to have done and
mounted the alternator at the 
front generator mount and used a long bolt and
spacer to capture the rear 
generator mount hole as well.  This also required
machining the alternator 
mounting ear to align the pulleys

My main concern
in looking at the picture of the A200 bracket is it may mount 
the alternator
higher, I just can't tell how much.

Rod Trunnell
TCF1034l

From coefront at shaw.ca  Thu Jul 15 13:22:24 2010
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 13:22:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR8/7 Starter
Message-ID: <67E998B4A34F48DDB4BCBC5E1A5E503D@coe>

Regarding the starter motor I have for sale. I'll be in Montana next week from
where I can mail it to anyone interested in it in the States. Mike. Calgary.
Alberta. coefront at shaw.ca

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 15 14:04:32 2010
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 13:04:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 zipper window top
Message-ID: <863673.43529.qm@web80405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Geo,
 
Try http://www.lbcarco.com/ :
 
TOP, TR4 WHITE EVERFLEX VINYL WITH
ZIPPER REAR WINDOW (640-070DZ) 

I have no experience with this custom order
top.

brgds, Jay

'64 Triumph TR4 since '67 (never w/ a zipper window top)

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 15 15:02:02 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 14:02:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] shameless self promotion
Message-ID: <667754.87099.qm@web120012.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

some of you may know that i was manufacturing small CNC machined parts for our
triumphs a while back.
Bob Danielson was so kind in showing off my products on
his web site.
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/conversion_to_electric_fuel_pump.htm
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm

i have once again found a
machinist who is capable of producing parts to the 
quality i wanted.
first
out of the bag will be the carburetor gage and a new product. 
the new
product will be an adapter plate for the front pulley, to be used when 
you
are converting the TR2/3/4 to an electric fan. when you remove the pulley
extension and fan, you will need an adapter plate and bolt to hold the pulley
on 
to the front of the crank.
the rest of the offerings, fuel pump blank off
plates TR3/TR6/spit, wheel 
spacers will follow shortly.
i am also looking for
more new products to make. while i was restricted in the 
past to 2D products,
we do have some limited capabilities to make some 3D 
products.
i have 2
products in mind, and depending on the interest i may move ahead with 
them.
product 1 is a recreation of the TR6 dashboard plinth, without lettering.
product 2 is for the mayflower. the hand break on the mayflower has a white
bakerlite finger grip. im proposing to recreate it in aluminum if there is
enough interest.
prices will be similar to what they used to be, and no i wont
take your stimulus 
check in exchange. :-)
feel free to contact me off list
Frank

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Jul 15 15:25:51 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 17:25:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] no time, no fun
Message-ID: <4C3F449F.18401.FE24E9@localhost>

I keep seeing notes about TR4-this and TR4-that and alternator swaps 
and new tops.  I've done absotively posilutely no British Car stuff 
for the last few weeks.  The GT6 is still sitting with a bummed-out 
gearbox.  The Spitfire has been driven once since then.

Life goes on.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Thu Jul 15 17:33:27 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 19:33:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] no time, no fun
In-Reply-To: <4C3F449F.18401.FE24E9@localhost>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9B0B@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Jim:

I thought you played Bluegrass, not the Blues... :^)

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: July 15, 2010 5:26 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] no time, no fun

I keep seeing notes about TR4-this and TR4-that and alternator swaps
and new tops.  I've done absotively posilutely no British Car stuff
for the last few weeks.  The GT6 is still sitting with a bummed-out
gearbox.  The Spitfire has been driven once since then.

Life goes on.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jul 16 06:05:38 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 08:05:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] shameless self promotion
In-Reply-To: <667754.87099.qm@web120012.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <667754.87099.qm@web120012.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2C9EB78F8D304D0C96B2D770DA11681B@BobPC>

Good morning Frank.........Glad to see you're back into production. The only 
comment I'd make is that Rick Patton has been making the adapter plate (he 
calls it a Fan Eliminator Kit) for a while now. 
http://www.pattonmachine.com/Fan-Order-Price.htm  He was the first to offer 
this product for the TR6 about 4 or 5 years ago and has expanded the product 
to include the TR3 & TR4.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org



--------------------------------------------------
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:02 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] shameless self promotion

> some of you may know that i was manufacturing small CNC machined parts for 
> our
> triumphs a while back.
> Bob Danielson was so kind in showing off my products on
> his web site.
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/conversion_to_electric_fuel_pump.htm
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm
>
> i have once again found a
> machinist who is capable of producing parts to the
> quality i wanted.
> first
> out of the bag will be the carburetor gage and a new product.
> the new
> product will be an adapter plate for the front pulley, to be used when
> you
> are converting the TR2/3/4 to an electric fan. when you remove the pulley
> extension and fan, you will need an adapter plate and bolt to hold the 
> pulley
> on
> to the front of the crank.
> the rest of the offerings, fuel pump blank off
> plates TR3/TR6/spit, wheel
> spacers will follow shortly.
> i am also looking for
> more new products to make. while i was restricted in the
> past to 2D products,
> we do have some limited capabilities to make some 3D
> products.
> i have 2
> products in mind, and depending on the interest i may move ahead with
> them.
> product 1 is a recreation of the TR6 dashboard plinth, without lettering.
> product 2 is for the mayflower. the hand break on the mayflower has a 
> white
> bakerlite finger grip. im proposing to recreate it in aluminum if there is
> enough interest.
> prices will be similar to what they used to be, and no i wont
> take your stimulus
> check in exchange. :-)
> feel free to contact me off list
> Frank
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 16 08:54:38 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 07:54:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] shameless self promotion
In-Reply-To: <667754.87099.qm@web120012.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <667754.87099.qm@web120012.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <517010.8703.qm@web120007.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Guys
it would appear that i jumped into production with a product that is
already 
being made.
Rick Patton already makes the fan eliminator kit. looking
at his web site it 
looks plenty sturdy. and i know Rick makes first class
products, and is a first 
class guy.
so, i wont be making the fan eliminators.
i have substituted the TR6/spit fuel pump blank off plates with my machinist
instead.
isn't it great we have so many other guys making really good parts
for our cars?
frank


________________________________
From: Frank Fisher
<yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 15, 2010
2:02:02 PM
Subject: [TR] shameless self promotion

some of you may know that i
was manufacturing small CNC machined parts for our
triumphs a while back.
Bob
Danielson was so kind in showing off my products on
his web site.
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/conversion_to_electric_fuel_pump.htm
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm

i have once again found a
machinist who is capable of producing parts to the 
quality i wanted.
first
out of the bag will be the carburetor gage and a new product. 
the new
product
will be an adapter plate for the front pulley, to be used when 
you
are
converting the TR2/3/4 to an electric fan. when you remove the pulley
extension and fan, you will need an adapter plate and bolt to hold the pulley
on 
to the front of the crank.
the rest of the offerings, fuel pump blank off
plates TR3/TR6/spit, wheel 
spacers will follow shortly.
i am also looking for
more new products to make. while i was restricted in the 
past to 2D products,
we do have some limited capabilities to make some 3D 
products.
i have 2
products in mind, and depending on the interest i may move ahead with 
them.
product 1 is a recreation of the TR6 dashboard plinth, without lettering.
product 2 is for the mayflower. the hand break on the mayflower has a white
bakerlite finger grip. im proposing to recreate it in aluminum if there is
enough interest.
prices will be similar to what they used to be, and no i wont
take your stimulus 
check in exchange. :-)
feel free to contact me off list
Frank

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From dmericas at austin.rr.com  Fri Jul 16 13:37:38 2010
From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 19:37:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 zipper window top
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1279303201.3748.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20100716193738.8TEQ0.148679.root@hrndva-web20-z01>

Geo --

I have one of these.  Contact me off-list for a first-hand assessment before you order.

Dean Mericas
1965 TR4

---- triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: 
>> Try http://www.lbcarco.com/ :
>  
> TOP, TR4 WHITE EVERFLEX VINYL WITH
> ZIPPER REAR WINDOW (640-070DZ) 
> 
> I have no experience with this custom order
> top.
> 
> brgds, Jay
> 
> '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 (never w/ a zipper window top)

From thomasb at queensu.ca  Fri Jul 16 15:34:09 2010
From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 17:34:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anyone need a TR2 front apron or grill?
Message-ID: <0L5O009B86L04360@mta01.its.queensu.ca>

Hi,

My wife was surfing the local KIJIJI buy/sell site recently and found 
a TR2 front apron for sale about 5 miles from us (as the crow 
flies).  Of course having two cars that use this piece, I had to go 
and look at it.

... and I bought it.

Now I'm wondering if someone out there needs this more than 
me?  Besides I already have one spare.  It came complete with 
headlights and trim and a TR2 grill which I removed this afternoon 
and cleaned up - typical pot marks are present but it is totally 
straight and could be a decent candidate for re-chroming.

The parts are located in Canada, just over the border from New York 
state, so shipping should be possible from either country.

Contact me off-list if interested - I'm not looking to make money on 
this, just want to see the parts put to good use.

Cheers,

Brian

Brian S. Thomas         e-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca
Holliday Point          work:   613-533-2228
R R 1                   home:   613-385-1947
Wolfe Island, Ontario   toys:   54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 
Ferguson TEA20
CANADA   K0H 2Y0                 

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri Jul 16 18:58:35 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 20:58:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] peening rear wheel studs
Message-ID: <AANLkTilMIc4tHSAKBmQRa81-feRw4qBiBqi0Bp_5HQfu@mail.gmail.com>

I'm in the process of removing the shortened (for wire wheel) studs on
the rear hubs of my TR4 and replacing them with the disc wheel studs.
I've managed to get the studs out of the hub and have threaded the
replacement studs in place.  The question is what is the best way to
peen the ends of the studs over?

The factory obviously did this with some sort of press.  Since I don't
have something like that handy I'm looking for ideas on the best way
to proceed.

Anyone been there done that?

Thanks!

Brad

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Jul 16 21:28:52 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 21:28:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] no time, no fun
In-Reply-To: <4C3F449F.18401.FE24E9@localhost>
References: <4C3F449F.18401.FE24E9@localhost>
Message-ID: <4C412374.50103@bradakis.com>

Jim Muller wrote:
>    I've done absotively posilutely no British Car stuff
> for the last few weeks.

I can relate.  I haven't really done anything useful in the
garage for some time.  But I will be starting on a Triumph
project of sorts this weekend.

The goal is to be in Topeka, Kansas, August 20 - 22 for
the races at Heartland Park.  The Kastner Cup will be a
part of that weekend.  I want to be there.  Here's an
excerpt of what I posted on another list:

====
Right now my main concern is making it to Topeka next month.  I'll
only be getting two paychecks between now and then, both of which
are already used up.  My current job sucks in several respects, but
it is a job.  So be warned, I may be trying to peddle a bunch of
parts over the next couple of weeks to come up with gas money.
EBay, this list, the TR list, the Team.Net forums, you never know
where I might strike!

Of course one possible advantage for prospective buyers is the
free shipping if you can pick them up somewhere along my route
there and back again.  First I have to see what I have on the shelf
that people might actually *want* !!   I'd like to keep the ceramic
coated Stahl Spit header for my personal use at a later date, but
if I get desperate that alone could cover gas and food for the trip.

====

So the project is to get enough funding to cover the costs of
this trip.  Hmm, I somehow think that a Team.Net Charity Fund
Drive to send an underprivleged sys admin to, uh, summer camp
would be well received.  So time to put on my parts salesman
hat.

A month after Topeka will be one of my favorite drives with
the British Motor Club of Utah.  I could have the clapped out
squaretail in the garage back on the road by then.  Probably one
or two good weekends of work should do it.  It would be nice to
have a Triumph again for the cooler fall weather.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Jul 16 21:35:41 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 21:35:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] Question on gasoline prices
Message-ID: <4C41250D.2040400@bradakis.com>

Pursuant to my plan to drive to the Heartland Park races,
I'd like some info.  I may regret asking the list, it could
snowball into a noisy exchange.

I figure I'll need about 100 gallons of gas for the drive.
Here in Salt Lake I purchase gas for about $2.75 a gallon.
What are some typical prices for gasoline along I-80 and
I-70 corridors between Utah and Kansas?

mjb.

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri Jul 16 22:04:51 2010
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 00:04:51 EDT
Subject: [TR] Question on gasoline prices
Message-ID: <f798.1424d8db.397285e3@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/16/2010 11:58:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mark at bradakis.com writes:

I may  regret asking the list, it could
snowball into a noisy exchange.

I  figure I'll need about 100 gallons of gas for the drive.
Here in Salt Lake  I purchase gas for about $2.75 a gallon.
What are some typical prices for  gasoline along I-80 and
I-70 corridors between Utah and  Kansas?
 
 
 
there are plenty of sources for this information on the Internet
here's one:
_http://gasbuddy.com/_ (http://gasbuddy.com/) 
google "gas prices" and find a dozen more
 
noisy exchange averted (i hope)
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 16 22:51:11 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 21:51:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Question on gasoline prices
In-Reply-To: <4C41250D.2040400@bradakis.com>
References: <4C41250D.2040400@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <2AF5C87CA7374451836FA4A2EE347402@Meislaptop>

> Here in Salt Lake I purchase gas for about $2.75 a gallon.
> What are some typical prices for gasoline along I-80 and
> I-70 corridors between Utah and Kansas?

I'd say $2.75 is good for planning purposes.  We just drove I-70 from I-15
to Indiana; highest I've paid was about $2.80.  Kansas as I recall was
rather lower, under $2.60.  All for regular.

Randall

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Sat Jul 17 07:11:00 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 09:11:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem
Message-ID: <AANLkTilDezjOjbgk6qMWbMG-vBKeEjnPNv9tzs78bZHc@mail.gmail.com>

Just ran into a problem that has me perplexed.

A little background first.  This is the 63 TR4 I bought at the Mark
Josyln estate auction earlier this year.  I do know the car sat for at
least 8 years waiting on an engine rebuild.  I also know the car had
been a driver prior to that.  It also shows signs of having been
pieced together from various parts cars.

The problem: I've been working on replacing the rear axle and hub
seals.  I didn't notice the problem when I took the drums off and
pulled the hubs.  However as I start putting the parts back together
I've run across a problem where the rear brake drums don't fit over
the wheel stud shoulders.  I know the wheel studs are the correct ones
and have a shoulder diameter of .565".  The replacement studs match
the original studs in this regard.  I tried putting the drum back on
and found that it hits the shoulders of the wheel studs.  This leaves
approximately a .125 gap between the inside face of the drum and the
hub face itself.  I KNOW this just can't be right.  I measured the
diameter of the stud holes in the drums and they are about .455" in
diameter.  That's a whopping .100" difference!

One thing I did notice is there were two different lengths of flat
head screws that hold the drums in place during assembly.  A couple
were about 1/8" longer than the other two.  Each side of the car had
one longer screw.

The only thing I can think of is the brake drums had to have come from
some other Triumph car, like possibly a Mayflower.

If someone could take some measurements of a TR3/4 brake drum that
would help a lot.  What I need to know is the inside diameter on the
drums of the holes for the wheel studs.  Also what is the diameter of
the large center hole.  Mine are 2.75" which would make a nice snug
fit on the hub itself.  I think this diameter is correct.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Brad

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Sat Jul 17 08:48:06 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 10:48:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilDezjOjbgk6qMWbMG-vBKeEjnPNv9tzs78bZHc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTilDezjOjbgk6qMWbMG-vBKeEjnPNv9tzs78bZHc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilmGpEtuJm8M27CZoi-oVVL16hw2gSR7x7k3-q4@mail.gmail.com>

Problem solved.  The drum is definitely not a Triumph drum.  Probably an MG.

Stupid me forgot I had a TR4 sitting in the corner that I could pull a
drum off of.  Definitely a difference in drums.

So now to get the Datsun 240Z drums modified to fit and I'll move onto
the next problem.

Brad


On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 9:11 AM, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:
> Just ran into a problem that has me perplexed.
>

>
> The only thing I can think of is the brake drums had to have come from
> some other Triumph car, like possibly a Mayflower.

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 17 10:54:20 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:54:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4_brake_drum_problem?=
Message-ID: <20100717165318.36464187645@autox.team.net>

I saw some beautiful finned aluminum brake drums on eBay recently for the rear of the tr3.  The seller said they were off a 240z datsun.   Does anyone know how to mod a pair of these drums to fit the tr3?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler at 141.com>
Date: Sat, Jul 17, 2010 09:48
Subject: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>

Problem solved.  The drum is definitely not a Triumph drum.  Probably an MG.

Stupid me forgot I had a TR4 sitting in the corner that I could pull a
drum off of.  Definitely a difference in drums.

So now to get the Datsun 240Z drums modified to fit and I'll move onto
the next problem.

Brad


On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 9:11 AM, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:
> Just ran into a problem that has me perplexed.
>

>
> The only thing I can think of is the brake drums had to have come from
> some other Triumph car, like possibly a Mayflower.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Jul 17 11:43:07 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 13:43:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem
In-Reply-To: <20100717165318.36464187645@autox.team.net>
References: <20100717165318.36464187645@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <01d801cb25d7$84adcc50$8e0964f0$@net>

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01 at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 12:54 PM
To: Brad Kahler; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem

I saw some beautiful finned aluminum brake drums on eBay recently for the
rear of the tr3.  The seller said they were off a 240z datsun.   Does anyone
know how to mod a pair of these drums to fit the tr3?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler at 141.com>
Date: Sat, Jul 17, 2010 09:48
Subject: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>

Problem solved.  The drum is definitely not a Triumph drum.  Probably an MG.

Stupid me forgot I had a TR4 sitting in the corner that I could pull a
drum off of.  Definitely a difference in drums.

So now to get the Datsun 240Z drums modified to fit and I'll move onto
the next problem.

Brad


On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 9:11 AM, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:
> Just ran into a problem that has me perplexed.
>

>
> The only thing I can think of is the brake drums had to have come from
> some other Triumph car, like possibly a Mayflower.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Jul 17 11:44:29 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 13:44:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem
In-Reply-To: <20100717165318.36464187645@autox.team.net>
References: <20100717165318.36464187645@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <01d901cb25d7$b5787d80$20697880$@net>

Searching the archive:  (sorry for the blank email)
Re: Alfin drums - TR3 application
from [R John Lye] [Permanent Link][Original] 

To:  rgs03 at health.state.ny.us, Triumph owners list <triumphs at autox.team.net>

Subject:  Re: Alfin drums - TR3 application 
From:  R John Lye <rjl6n at uva.pcmail.virginia.edu> 
Date:  Fri, 25 Oct 96 10:21:49 EDT 

On Oct 25,  9:07am, rgs03 at health.state.ny.us wrote:

> I've heard this as well. I was told that it was the TR6 that the 240Z
> drums fit. May be the TR3 also, which would mean they would fit a bunch
> of TRs. I have a '71 240Z and even have a spare (brand new) aluminum
> drum for it. If there's enough interest I could go to the garage and
> do a test fit.

I've got a set sitting on my shelf, so you don't need to do it.
HTe 240-Z drums will fit TR's with 9" rear brakes.  This includes
most TR-4's, 250's and 6's and some TR-3's  TR-2 and some TR-3's
had 10" rear drums.  The Datsun aluminum drums need to have the
center hole enlarged a bit, but the bolt pattern is the same.  If
you want to retain those little drum hold-down screws, the holes 
for them will need to be drilled and countersunk as well.  The
backing plates of some brakes will foul the inner edge of the
drum, so the drum may need to be trimmed there, too.  Test this
first, though, as they don't always need to be trimmed.

later,


John Lye

rjl6n at virginia.EDU
http://avery.med.virginia.edu/~rjl6n/homepage.htm




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01 at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 12:54 PM
To: Brad Kahler; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem

I saw some beautiful finned aluminum brake drums on eBay recently for the
rear of the tr3.  The seller said they were off a 240z datsun.   Does anyone
know how to mod a pair of these drums to fit the tr3?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler at 141.com>
Date: Sat, Jul 17, 2010 09:48
Subject: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>

Problem solved.  The drum is definitely not a Triumph drum.  Probably an MG.

Stupid me forgot I had a TR4 sitting in the corner that I could pull a
drum off of.  Definitely a difference in drums.

So now to get the Datsun 240Z drums modified to fit and I'll move onto
the next problem.

Brad


On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 9:11 AM, Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com> wrote:
> Just ran into a problem that has me perplexed.
>

>
> The only thing I can think of is the brake drums had to have come from
> some other Triumph car, like possibly a Mayflower.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From spitfire at freebacon.net  Sat Jul 17 12:15:55 2010
From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 12:15:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] Question on gasoline prices
In-Reply-To: <4C41250D.2040400@bradakis.com>
References: <4C41250D.2040400@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <134E8C4112E443C0A4115478C27C2222@Spike>

Western slope Colorado (Grand Junction area) was about 2.90; Denver east to 
Kansas about 2.75.

Mike Welch
Colorado Springs, CO
'69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2
'69 Honda SL350

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 9:35 PM
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Question on gasoline prices

> Pursuant to my plan to drive to the Heartland Park races,
> I'd like some info.  I may regret asking the list, it could
> snowball into a noisy exchange.
>
> I figure I'll need about 100 gallons of gas for the drive.
> Here in Salt Lake I purchase gas for about $2.75 a gallon.
> What are some typical prices for gasoline along I-80 and
> I-70 corridors between Utah and Kansas?
>
> mjb.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitfire at freebacon.net

From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Jul 17 15:45:36 2010
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 17:45:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] peening rear wheel studs
Message-ID: <b1f6.74f102c6.39737e80@aol.com>

Brad,
 
Use extreme caution.  I tried to peen disk wheel studs on my TR3 (with  
late rear axle assy) and the metal was too hard.  I took the  hub/halfshaft 
assemblies to a welding shop, asking if the stud metal was OK  to weld.  They 
put a nice bead on the backside of all 8 studs.   After a few miles and one 
track session , one broke and a second one was loose  because it was cracked.
 
Hardy
 
Date:  Fri, 16 Jul 2010 20:58:35 -0400
From: Brad Kahler  <brad.kahler at 141.com>
Subject: [TR] peening rear wheel studs
To:  Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
<AANLkTilMIc4tHSAKBmQRa81-feRw4qBiBqi0Bp_5HQfu at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I'm in the process of removing the  shortened (for wire wheel) studs on
the rear hubs of my TR4 and replacing  them with the disc wheel studs.
I've managed to get the studs out of the  hub and have threaded the
replacement studs in place.  The question is  what is the best way to
peen the ends of the studs over?

The factory  obviously did this with some sort of press.  Since I don't
have  something like that handy I'm looking for ideas on the best way
to  proceed.

Anyone been there done  that?

Thanks!

Brad

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Jul 17 20:08:10 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 21:08:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <134E8C4112E443C0A4115478C27C2222@Spike>
References: <4C41250D.2040400@bradakis.com>
	<134E8C4112E443C0A4115478C27C2222@Spike>
Message-ID: <0549839130B6400BAA016C01EDD6C2EB@ranteer.local>

hi, all.

I have a dizzy which I believe is 180 degrees out.

how hard is it to change that? 

From allegrorover at mac.com  Sat Jul 17 23:49:18 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 22:49:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <0549839130B6400BAA016C01EDD6C2EB@ranteer.local>
References: <4C41250D.2040400@bradakis.com>
	<134E8C4112E443C0A4115478C27C2222@Spike>
	<0549839130B6400BAA016C01EDD6C2EB@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <D3E02283-B56B-4089-A7AA-4B3879F9D8D3@mac.com>

Well if it's a TR3 lift the dizzy out turn it 180 degrees and reinsert.
The lower end of it only allows for a 180 turn anyway.
I've had more difficult tasks with my 3A.



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Jul 17 23:58:00 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 22:58:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 SU Tuning Problems
Message-ID: <463545.85210.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I recently had some fuel contamination that clogged my H6 SU's on my
TR3A. I blew out the Grose jets with compressed air. I also pulled the domes
and pistons and blew the jet hole out gently with compressed air. Afterwards,
the car idled worse and would die. It appears to be smoking now. When I rev it
with the car stopped, I get a big puff of dark smoke. I pulled the plugs and
they all had black soot on them. It really wasn't running all that smooth
before I clogged the carbs.     I can smell lots of unburned gas.
     The engine idles rough and really shakes. I am having trouble setting the
air flow with the German flow meter that Moss sells.     I am running lean
needles because he engine has always seemed to run rich at the 5,000 elevation
where I live. The needles are set correctly in the piston.     As a quick
check I measured the fuel levels in the float bowls after turning the engine
off and the levels were the same at 9/16th to the top of the float. The car
wasn't on level ground at the time. I'll probably check the float lever
settings tomorrow.     I see no leaks.     What really perplexes me is if I
lift the rear piston up abruptly with my finger the engine stumbles and then
begins revving. If I lift the front piston up abruptly, nothing happens. If I
lift it about 1/16th inch, the engine idle increases slightly.     Another
problem I have is that I can't seem to adjust the rear mixture. It appears
that the jet bearing body is spinning
 in the carb housing and I can't tighten the nut up on it. Any way around
this?     Maybe the cork gaskets or no longer sealing or were damaged during
the compressed air blow out.     It's been about 20,000 miles since I last
rebuilt the jet assembly. Maybe it is time again. I haven't had much trouble
tuning these SU's in the past.     Maybe I am thinking backwards. When the
mixture nut is in (spring compressed) then the mixture should be lean,
right?     Very frustrated. The wife is complaining and telling  me to sell it
(as always) and buy a real car. It has been my daily driver for the last year.
I have had it on the road now for 17 years.     If I can't come up with a
quick fix, I guess that I'll have to do a complete tune-up with ignition,
plugs, valve clearances and and rebuilt jet assemblies.     Any ideas?    
TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 18 06:19:58 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 08:19:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] peening rear wheel studs
Message-ID: <5c46c.5b203971.39744b6e@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/17/2010 5:08:27 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Catpusher at aol.com writes: 
> Brad,
> 
> Use extreme caution.  I tried to peen disk wheel studs on my TR3 (with  
> late rear axle assy) and the metal was too hard.  I took the  
> hub/halfshaft 
> assemblies to a welding shop, asking if the stud metal was OK  to weld.  
> They 
> put a nice bead on the backside of all 8 studs.   After a few miles and 
> one 
> track session , one broke and a second one was loose  because it was 
> cracked.
> 
> Hardy
> 

Sounds like a jpb for threadlocker.

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 18 06:33:13 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 05:33:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilDezjOjbgk6qMWbMG-vBKeEjnPNv9tzs78bZHc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTilDezjOjbgk6qMWbMG-vBKeEjnPNv9tzs78bZHc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E4E0AE54E1F24E44816DA495E6C7C0E0@Meislaptop>

> One thing I did notice is there were two different lengths of flat
> head screws that hold the drums in place during assembly.  A couple
> were about 1/8" longer than the other two.  Each side of the car had
> one longer screw.

At least at one time, correct replacement screws were not available.  My TR3
has several that are longer than original, just because I didn't cut them
quite right.

> The only thing I can think of is the brake drums had to have come from
> some other Triumph car, like possibly a Mayflower.

Or one of the IRS TR4A-6.  Although some replacement drums apparently have
the larger holes (allowing them to fit both solid axle & IRS cars), the
original IRS drums had smaller stud holes (as the IRS hubs use ordinary
knurled studs without the shoulder).

> If someone could take some measurements of a TR3/4 brake drum that
> would help a lot.  

Sorry I can't do that at the moment, I'm some 2500 miles away from my TR.
But your measurements sound at least close to right; I'm pretty sure you've
just got IRS drums.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 18 06:33:13 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 05:33:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem
In-Reply-To: <20100717165318.36464187645@autox.team.net>
References: <20100717165318.36464187645@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <9B813B5CD6A849B19F3964EE251E45E2@Meislaptop>

>  The seller said they were off a 240z datsun.   Does
> anyone know how to mod a pair of these drums to fit the tr3?

I started on that project a long time ago, never did finish it.

First, you need a TR3 with 9" rear brakes (which as I recall did not come in
until sometime during TR3A production).  Fortunately, someone had robbed the
original 4.10 from my early 3A, and stuffed in an axle with 9" brakes.  The
9" are not hard to retrofit to earlier cars (as long as they don't have the
Mayflower axle), you just swap the backing plates, shoes, etc.

The stud holes have to be opened up; although the Datsun uses the same
diameter, the TR has shoulders on the studs that the drums must fit over.

Then in my case, basically the entire lip of the drum had to be milled away,
in order to clear the edge of the backing plate.

FWIW, I've also been told that the Datsun drums were not made using a true
Alfin process (which is a complicated method of bonding aluminum to steel)
but were simply cast aluminum around steel liners.  If that is true, they
will not cool as well as even ordinary cast iron drums (though of course
there will be some savings in unsprung weight).

Randall

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Jul 18 06:49:11 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 07:49:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?dizzy?=
Message-ID: <20100718124806.B37AA18763F@autox.team.net>

Or change the wires around 180.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Anthony Cascio" <allegrorover at mac.com>
Date: Sun, Jul 18, 2010 00:49
Subject: [TR] dizzy
To: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>


Well if it's a TR3 lift the dizzy out turn it 180 degrees and reinsert.
The lower end of it only allows for a 180 turn anyway.
I've had more difficult tasks with my 3A.



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 18 06:58:50 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 08:58:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel lines
Message-ID: <357c8.20927163.3974548a@cs.com>

Last week someone asked about fuel line fittings.  I gave an answer based 
on my vague recollection.  I think this was based on the TR6 configuration 
and was not valid for the TR3.  I was digging up some more of my TR3 parts and 
I came across what I believe is the fuel line and it has compression 
fittings at the tank and at the splice at the midpoint.

Once again, my car may not be configured as per the factory, there was a 
DPO but the lines look old enough to be OE.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 18 07:03:09 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 09:03:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 brake drum problem
Message-ID: <359c8.53d68324.3974558d@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/18/2010 7:56:29 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> FWIW, I've also been told that the Datsun drums were not made using a 
> true
> Alfin process (which is a complicated method of bonding aluminum to steel)
> but were simply cast aluminum around steel liners.  If that is true, they
> will not cool as well as even ordinary cast iron drums (though of course
> there will be some savings in unsprung weight).
> 

And they look cool (the main advantage)

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 18 07:12:53 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 06:12:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 SU Tuning Problems
In-Reply-To: <463545.85210.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <463545.85210.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6509553BBFEC425396E8D5A6094A578D@Meislaptop>

> I blew out the Grose jets with compressed air.

Possibly I am in the minority; but my first step would be to throw the Grose
jets as far as I could, and install some original-type float valves.  Even
the original, all-brass valves were much less trouble in my experience than
the "Grose Jets"; and current supply valves almost always have the Viton
tips that IMO make them the best possible solution.

> I also pulled the domes and pistons

Did you check that they are properly matched?  Mixing pistons and domes can
cause some strange problems; the side with the loose fit will run rich while
the side with the tight fit may run either rich or lean, depending on which
way the wind is blowing in Tibet.

It's also important to check that there is NO dragging between piston and
dome, which can be caused by, for example, dropping a dome while it's off
the car.  Even a .001" dent, barely enough to be visible, can cause mixture
problems.

> What really perplexes me is if I
> lift the rear piston up abruptly

"Abruptly" should be impossible, as the damper should be fighting you and
forcing the piston to rise slowly.  Are your dampers not working?

> the engine stumbles and then begins revving.

That would seem to indicate that the other (ie front) carb is way too rich;
or one of the carbs is simply dumping raw fuel into the throat regardless of
venture depression.

> If I lift the front piston up abruptly, nothing happens.

That sounds like the synchronization is way out.  If you stick your head
down near each carb (or use a length of rubber hose), do they hiss about
equally?

> It appears
> that the jet bearing body is spinning
>  in the carb housing and I can't tighten the nut up on it. Any way around
> this?

The most common cause of that is that the nut was tightened all the way, and
then forced further.  However, it might also be a sign that the big nut that
holds the entire jet assembly to the carb is loose; or that the jet is
improperly assembled.  Also possible that the threads are gummed up or
damaged.

Once it starts to turn though, I think you are stuck removing the jet
assembly to unstuck the threads, replace the copper washers that lock the
body in place and so on.  Might as well change the cork (or rubber) O-rings
that the jet moves in while you are in there, since a leaking upper seal
might well be the source of your problems.

I would also be tempted to replace the jets as well, since I have seen
several cases where the precision bore inside the jet was worn (due to
improper needle centering) which caused severe mixture problems (including
rich idle and persistent overheating at speed).  It's been a few decades
ago, but I once spent my winter vacation laying on my back in the snow,
trying to resuscitate a TR3A engine that had scattered bits all over the
road.  I believe now that "root cause" was worn carb jets.

> When the
> mixture nut is in (spring compressed) then the mixture should be lean,
> right?

Yes, assuming the jet head is tight against the nut.  It's not uncommon for
them to stick down (after using the choke), which makes the nut position
irrelevant.

Note that some new jets need to be polished before installation.  The
originals were supplied with a very smooth surface, but replacements are
being left dull (which means more friction against the seals with associated
problems).

> If I can't come up with a
> quick fix, I guess that I'll have to do a complete tune-up with ignition,
> plugs, valve clearances and and rebuilt jet assemblies.     Any ideas?

20,000 miles is actually pretty good on the original cork seals, IMO.  Mine
would generally start leaking within 2-3 years of daily driving; before I
switched to the rubber O-rings from Moss.

Valve clearances can also have a profound effect on idle mixture, so I would
check them first.  Likewise, weak ignition can masquerade as poor mixture
(and 20,000 miles is way too long for a set of points).

HTH
Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Jul 18 07:14:10 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 09:14:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <20100718124806.B37AA18763F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4C42C5E2.27199.EAF112A@localhost>

> Well if it's a TR3 lift the dizzy out turn it 180 degrees
> and reinsert.

But which way do you turn it?  If you turn it the wrong way it will 
be off by 360 degrees.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 18 07:16:28 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 06:16:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <D3E02283-B56B-4089-A7AA-4B3879F9D8D3@mac.com>
References: <4C41250D.2040400@bradakis.com><134E8C4112E443C0A4115478C27C2222@Spike><0549839130B6400BAA016C01EDD6C2EB@ranteer.local>
	<D3E02283-B56B-4089-A7AA-4B3879F9D8D3@mac.com>
Message-ID: <24A15997AD954DC390E120F6B581014B@Meislaptop>

> Well if it's a TR3 lift the dizzy out turn it 180 degrees and reinsert.
> The lower end of it only allows for a 180 turn anyway.

If it does, then something has been damaged.  The tang and slot are supposed
to be offset, such that they fit only one way around.

The right way to fix the problem on a TR2-4 motor is to remove the
distributor pedestal, lift out the gear, and re-engage it turned 180
degrees.  Still not particularly difficult, but it does take some care to be
certain the gear is turned exactly 180 degrees (especially since it will
turn as you remove and install it).

Randall

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Jul 18 07:58:49 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 09:58:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel lines & fuel line clips
In-Reply-To: <357c8.20927163.3974548a@cs.com>
References: <357c8.20927163.3974548a@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000001cb2681$5ae561d0$10b02570$@net>

That may have been me.  I was able to figure out the thread pattern
(standard fittings).  Although later 3's had a 'hose' connector between the
tank line and the next one, I did put in a compression fitting.   I also put
a shut-off valve before a fuel filter before the pump (it is along the
chassis rail just before it comes into the engine bay).   I had already
purchased a filter for the 1/4" line by the carbs, but may not install it
now.  Seemed to make more sense to filter it before the pump.

Some one had asked about the clips to hold the fuel lines as the ones
recommended by TRF are too small.  Moss has a 5/16 'P' clamp that seems to
work.  P/N 181-550 

Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 8:59 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel lines

Last week someone asked about fuel line fittings.  I gave an answer based 
on my vague recollection.  I think this was based on the TR6 configuration 
and was not valid for the TR3.  I was digging up some more of my TR3 parts
and 
I came across what I believe is the fuel line and it has compression 
fittings at the tank and at the splice at the midpoint.

Once again, my car may not be configured as per the factory, there was a 
DPO but the lines look old enough to be OE.

Dave

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Jul 18 11:14:08 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 11:14:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <4C42C5E2.27199.EAF112A@localhost>
References: <4C42C5E2.27199.EAF112A@localhost>
Message-ID: <4C433660.6030609@bradakis.com>

Jim Muller wrote:
>
> But which way do you turn it?  If you turn it the wrong way it will
> be off by 360 degrees.
>
>    
I may be wrong about this, I've not checked the manual for
some time.  I do believe that the proper direction to rotate
it the distributor to avoid being 360 degrees out depends
on where you are located on the planet relative to the
equator.

mjb.

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Jul 18 11:42:28 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 12:42:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <4C433660.6030609@bradakis.com>
References: <4C42C5E2.27199.EAF112A@localhost> <4C433660.6030609@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1887CD894F2F4C8E9F668B2D6D70C29B@ranteer.local>

I'm totally confused.  you guys have turned me around 360 degrees

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 12:14 PM
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] dizzy

> Jim Muller wrote:
>>
>> But which way do you turn it?  If you turn it the wrong way it will
>> be off by 360 degrees.
>>
>>    
> I may be wrong about this, I've not checked the manual for
> some time.  I do believe that the proper direction to rotate
> it the distributor to avoid being 360 degrees out depends
> on where you are located on the planet relative to the
> equator.
> 
> mjb.

From allegrorover at mac.com  Sun Jul 18 11:42:58 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 10:42:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <4C433660.6030609@bradakis.com>
References: <4C42C5E2.27199.EAF112A@localhost> <4C433660.6030609@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <C2073107-760A-42DE-99FB-7C6FF22C0CA1@mac.com>

now that was a GREAT answer

Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Jul 18 12:27:09 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 14:27:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] a different kind of LBC trip
Message-ID: <4C430F3D.28165.FCD9C54@localhost>

Well, technically it isn't an LBC at all, but an LBB.  Specifically a 
'73 Raleigh Gran Sport, a two wheeled vehicle powered by only two 
cylinders.  I just got back from a 53 mile run, a personal longest 
distance.  The heat took its toll, as did yesterday's 22 mile ride in 
even hotter weather, so it wasn't as fast as I would have liked.  I 
was hoping the route would be longer but now I'm glad it wasn't.

I should be taking the GT6 apart.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 18 13:56:07 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 14:56:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <4C42C5E2.27199.EAF112A@localhost>
References: <20100718124806.B37AA18763F@autox.team.net>,
	<4C42C5E2.27199.EAF112A@localhost>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W456D2DE1EF8D6340B311EE1BE0@phx.gbl>

I think this thread has come full circle.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> From: jimmuller at rcn.com
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 09:14:10 -0400
> Subject: Re: [TR] dizzy
>
> > Well if it's a TR3 lift the dizzy out turn it 180 degrees
> > and reinsert.
>
> But which way do you turn it? If you turn it the wrong way it will
> be off by 360 degrees.
>
> --
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Jul 18 15:39:38 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 15:39:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] dizzy
In-Reply-To: <4C433660.6030609@bradakis.com>
References: <4C42C5E2.27199.EAF112A@localhost> <4C433660.6030609@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4C43749A.8010808@bradakis.com>

 >  I do believe that the proper direction to rotate  the
 >  distributor to avoid being 360 degrees out depends
 > on where you are located on the planet relative to the
 > equator.

I did some research.  Those lucky folks who live south of
the equator just need to turn the distributor clockwise
to make sure you aren't 360 degrees off.  Those of us in
the north, unlucky as we are,  need to force that thing
in an anti-counterclockwise direction.

So it goes.


mjb.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 18 16:55:21 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 18:55:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel lines & fuel line clips
Message-ID: <ae787.1154165d.3974e059@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/18/2010 8:58:55 AM Central Daylight Time, 
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> That may have been me.  I was able to figure out the thread pattern
> (standard fittings).  Although later 3's had a 'hose' connector between 
> the
> tank line and the next one, I did put in a compression fitting.   I also 
> put
> a shut-off valve before a fuel filter before the pump (it is along the
> chassis rail just before it comes into the engine bay).   I had already
> purchased a filter for the 1/4" line by the carbs, but may not install it
> now.  Seemed to make more sense to filter it before the pump.

/What valve did you use?  I've heard the OE valves were prone to leaking if 
due to age/abuse.  The alternative is to raise the front of the car enough 
to pput the filter above the fuel level.  That can be inconvenient at times. 
 ;-)

> 
> Some one had asked about the clips to hold the fuel lines as the ones
> recommended by TRF are too small.  Moss has a 5/16 'P' clamp that seems to
> work.  P/N 181-550 

Thanks for the tip.

Dave

From agraham at execulink.com  Mon Jul 19 10:58:39 2010
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 12:58:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Girling caliper flex hose fitting.
Message-ID: <4C44843F.3000608@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Sorting through some flex hoses and asking about the caliper end of the 
flex hose. What type of fitting is this one? Is it a straight thread 
that seals against the caliper body with a copper washer? Or does it 
have the unthreaded tip similar to the brake line fittings? Trying to 
sort through the TR2 (Lockheed) and Girling flex hoses and fittings to 
make sure I have the correct match.
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Jul 19 13:44:20 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 13:44:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] Question on gasoline prices
In-Reply-To: <mailman.30548.1279458938.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.30548.1279458938.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CEB88191-E4A1-4540-8A3B-A10560858374@telus.net>

Edmonton AB Canada (where the oil comes from)  $3.47 USD/USG


On 18-Jul-10, at 7:15 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "Mike Welch" <spitfire at freebacon.net>
> Date: July 17, 2010 12:15:55 PM MDT (CA)
> To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Question on gasoline prices
>
>
> Western slope Colorado (Grand Junction area) was about 2.90; Denver  
> east to Kansas about 2.75.
>
> Mike Welch
> Colorado Springs, CO
> '69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2
> '69 Honda SL3

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Mon Jul 19 17:30:56 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 19:30:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] 7 Lakes Pkwy (IS Triumph-related!)
Message-ID: <20100719233000.9413F18763F@autox.team.net>

I am planning a road trip with my TR6 for next week to New York state with a
possible meander into Connecticut, Massachusetts, and/or Vermont.  Is there
anyone on the list who has driven Seven Lakes Parkway (or Drive) through
Harriman State Park in NY and can tell me about how long to allow for a
leisurely drive from its southern terminus in Sloatsburg (NY-17) to its
northern terminus onto US-6?  For ease in finding the road, would I be
better off going south from US-6?  I'm currently planning taking I-287 to
where it meets I-87 as the map says I can pick-up NY-17 (northbound) there
too.  Is that correct?  Any "gotchas" with the road signs?

The last time I took this road was in 1970 on my BSA 650.  I lived in NYC
(Queens) then. 

Thanks,

BobW
Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia)
1974 TR6

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 19 17:31:37 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 16:31:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield
Message-ID: <474597.94544.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Listers,
I'll be needing a new windshield and was wondering what came along with the 
windshield?  I know it doesn't include the stanchions and plates on the 
stanchions.  I'm wondering what parts I need to keep and get re-chromed.

thanks!

gary n.

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Mon Jul 19 17:45:15 2010
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 16:45:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield
References: <474597.94544.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1BD60E525C1E41C69F3F37544809785A@paulal73q2sjay>

I bought a windshield from Moss a few years ago.  All you get is the glass. 
I purchased the 3 seals separately.  I worried about the glass breaking 
during shipping.  No need to worry as they completely surround the glass in 
Instapak foam inside an appropriate sized box.

paulw
1956 TR3
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 4:31 PM
Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield


> Listers,
> I'll be needing a new windshield and was wondering what came along with 
> the
> windshield?  I know it doesn't include the stanchions and plates on the
> stanchions.  I'm wondering what parts I need to keep and get re-chromed.
>
> thanks!
>
> gary n.

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Mon Jul 19 18:05:44 2010
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 18:05:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield
In-Reply-To: <1BD60E525C1E41C69F3F37544809785A@paulal73q2sjay>
References: <474597.94544.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<1BD60E525C1E41C69F3F37544809785A@paulal73q2sjay>
Message-ID: <3B32007BCE164F24BAD0EEED53CF7CA3@maximum7>

I recently bought one too.  When I took it to get installed, they weren't
able to use the seal I bought from Moss.  The installer said that due to
variation it may be too thick or too thin and it is better to just let your
installer pick the right one...assuming you are having it professionally
installed.

Thanks,
Jeremiah

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Willoughby
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 5:45 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 windshield

I bought a windshield from Moss a few years ago.  All you get is the glass. 
I purchased the 3 seals separately.  I worried about the glass breaking 
during shipping.  No need to worry as they completely surround the glass in 
Instapak foam inside an appropriate sized box.

paulw
1956 TR3
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 4:31 PM
Subject: [TR] tr-3 windshield


> Listers,
> I'll be needing a new windshield and was wondering what came along with 
> the
> windshield?  I know it doesn't include the stanchions and plates on the
> stanchions.  I'm wondering what parts I need to keep and get re-chromed.
>
> thanks!
>
> gary n.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Jul 19 20:31:41 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 22:31:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] 7 Lakes Pkwy (IS Triumph-related!)
In-Reply-To: <20100719233000.9413F18763F@autox.team.net>
References: <20100719233000.9413F18763F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20C248FB521442448646248BB4ABB4F3@BobPC>

Bob............... this doesn't answer your question but if you make it as 
far as MA by the 25th consider attending Day of Triumph 
http://www.larzanderson.org/Topics/Topic.cfm?TopicName=Show%20Event&CFID=5424902&CFTOKEN=29025789&CalendarEventId=96

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob Wanderer" <rawanderer at comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 7:30 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 7 Lakes Pkwy (IS Triumph-related!)

> I am planning a road trip with my TR6 for next week to New York state with 
> a
> possible meander into Connecticut, Massachusetts, and/or Vermont.  Is 
> there
> anyone on the list who has driven Seven Lakes Parkway (or Drive) through
> Harriman State Park in NY and can tell me about how long to allow for a
> leisurely drive from its southern terminus in Sloatsburg (NY-17) to its
> northern terminus onto US-6?  For ease in finding the road, would I be
> better off going south from US-6?  I'm currently planning taking I-287 to
> where it meets I-87 as the map says I can pick-up NY-17 (northbound) there
> too.  Is that correct?  Any "gotchas" with the road signs?
>
> The last time I took this road was in 1970 on my BSA 650.  I lived in NYC
> (Queens) then.
>
> Thanks,
>
> BobW
> Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia)
> 1974 TR6
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had 
> a name of winmail.dat]
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 19 21:16:05 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 20:16:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Girling caliper flex hose fitting.
In-Reply-To: <4C44843F.3000608@execulink.com>
References: <4C44843F.3000608@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <2F04B51C1FE447A58289C4B1BB759096@Meislaptop>

> Sorting through some flex hoses and asking about the caliper end of the
> flex hose. What type of fitting is this one? Is it a straight thread
> that seals against the caliper body with a copper washer? 

I don't know that they are all the same, but that is what my early Girling
TR3/A calipers have (the ones with the one piece body & a crossover pipe).

Come to think of it, so do the Lockheed calipers on the Stag.

Randall

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Tue Jul 20 03:46:30 2010
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 05:46:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] 7 Lakes Pkwy (IS Triumph-related!)
In-Reply-To: <20100719233000.9413F18763F@autox.team.net>
References: <20100719233000.9413F18763F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4C457076.9010207@frontiernet.net>

The total time even driving casually is about 20 minutes. Where do you 
plan to go on Route 6? In the one direction it takes you across the 
river on the Bear Mountain Bridge, and in the other it goes to the 
Woodbury Commons shopping center before merging with Route 17/6 west.

If you just want to drive, there are a lot of side roads off of Seven 
Lakes Drive that are nice.

I live just a few minutes away, and take my TR3 through the park often.

George Richardson



Bob Wanderer wrote:
> I am planning a road trip with my TR6 for next week to New York state with a
> possible meander into Connecticut, Massachusetts, and/or Vermont.  Is there
> anyone on the list who has driven Seven Lakes Parkway (or Drive) through
> Harriman State Park in NY and can tell me about how long to allow for a
> leisurely drive from its southern terminus in Sloatsburg (NY-17) to its
> northern terminus onto US-6?  For ease in finding the road, would I be
> better off going south from US-6?  I'm currently planning taking I-287 to
> where it meets I-87 as the map says I can pick-up NY-17 (northbound) there
> too.  Is that correct?  Any "gotchas" with the road signs?
>
> The last time I took this road was in 1970 on my BSA 650.  I lived in NYC
> (Queens) then. 
>
> Thanks,
>
> BobW
> Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia)
> 1974 TR6
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gprtech at frontiernet.net
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4627 (20091121) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>
>   


__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4627 (20091121) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Tue Jul 20 14:12:49 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 16:12:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] {TR} 7 Lakes Parkway
Message-ID: <000601cb2847$ed491590$c7db40b0$@net>

"Bob Wanderer" rawanderer at comcast.net wrote:

>Any "gotchas" .

 

Bob - 

   Don't expect the smoothest ride - the road hasn't been repaved since the 

last time you drove it.  A better ride through Harriman State Park is on Rte
106

which was written up a few years ago in a BMW magazine as one of the best 

drives in the northeast.  Take Rte 17 North past 7 Lakes Parkway to Rte 106
- it 

starts where Rte 17A heads west.  Rte 106 will run into 7 Lakes Drive and
you 

will miss the poorly paved and not terribly scenic southern part of 7 Lakes
Drive. 

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Tue Jul 20 17:34:19 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:34:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Flywheel bolts locking plates.
Message-ID: <F72AE8A6CE59499CA8EF43824CE70E78@userb38463fba5>

List, what is the collective wisdom on using the 2 locking plates when
assembling a TR 4 flywheel to the crank? Use them or use Locktite instead of
them. Both?

Thanks,

JVV

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Jul 21 12:11:59 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 13:11:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] part needed
In-Reply-To: <E3CF92B35E0B437AB8CB5E9433401604@Bevan>
References: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B176BE@mail.ex-centris.net><200812091937.36996.yellowtr@adelphia.net><493F33E8.7020700@dfn.com>
	<E3CF92B35E0B437AB8CB5E9433401604@Bevan>
Message-ID: <9FFF069C2B074FF7B6A382982AC97956@ranteer.local>

hi, all.

well, the restoration from Hell, which was promoted to the restoration from 
purgatory, is in danger of being demoted.

the body shop person insists that a certain part was returned to the owner 
(me).

the owner (me), although I am admittedly old and forgetful, is pretty sure I 
never got it from her.  I have also searched the usual and unusual nooks and 
crannies to no avail.

regardless, the part I find myself needing to buy is for a TR2/3 (not 3a), 
the wooden piece that spans the scuttle as a support piece, and has a couple 
of bolts built in.

#42. dash rail, 
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29156  on this 
drawing.

can anyone help?

thanks so much!

dave northrup
dallas, tx
214-394-8296

www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jul 21 14:44:54 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 16:44:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] Thread on Fuel tank, TR3
Message-ID: <74495.76265797.3978b646@cs.com>

Folks, I'm trying to clean up the threads on the overflow fitting on my TR3 
fuel tank.  I thought it was a 9/16-18 thread but I find out it isn't.  At 
least I can't get the tap started without undue effort.  Can anyone verify 
what this thread is?

Thanks in advance.

Dave

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Jul 21 18:24:57 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 00:24:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR Engine Blocks
In-Reply-To: <F72AE8A6CE59499CA8EF43824CE70E78@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <636890899.376619.1279758297375.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

General restoration question:  

I first found my "barnfind" '59 TR3A in a shed in Osinnee, NY for $500 back in about 2001.  It had sat there since 1975.

It was a $500 car, no question.

Anyway, it was so rusty, the only reason I wound up taking a chance on the frame being solid was a) you could get all the parts for it, but also b) I found out it had wetliners, so the car could be 100% restored to new (except for the crank).

Question:  Most antique LBCs, like MGA's, anyway,had solid blocks.  You can bore them to what, .003 over before running into trouble with too thin walls?  So what do restorers do with cars they pick up, begin a restoration, and find the block is shot.  Are there aftermarket new blocks, or do machines put in somekind of custome sleeve to build the cylinder back up?

Just curious.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 21 19:43:22 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 20:43:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR_Engine_Blocks?=
Message-ID: <20100722014219.2897318764A@autox.team.net>

There are special thick wall sleeves we have used in the very old cars.  In tr s er are lucky!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: terryrs at comcast.net
Date: Wed, Jul 21, 2010 19:24
Subject: [TR] TR Engine Blocks
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

General restoration question:  

I first found my "barnfind" '59 TR3A in a shed in Osinnee, NY for $500 back in about 2001.  It had sat there since 1975.

It was a $500 car, no question.

Anyway, it was so rusty, the only reason I wound up taking a chance on the frame being solid was a) you could get all the parts for it, but also b) I found out it had wetliners, so the car could be 100% restored to new (except for the crank).

Question:  Most antique LBCs, like MGA's, anyway,had solid blocks.  You can bore them to what, .003 over before running into trouble with too thin walls?  So what do restorers do with cars they pick up, begin a restoration, and find the block is shot.  Are there aftermarket new blocks, or do machines put in somekind of custome sleeve to build the cylinder back up?

Just curious.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 21 21:53:47 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 23:53:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine blocks
References: <636890899.376619.1279758297375.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <754D4730E8DB4B088489DBC7AE930B67@Edscomputer>

Terry,

My MGTF had a cracked block when I bought it for $200 in 1966. The previous 
owner had bored it .080" over! I had it sleeved (all four) and, since the 
.080" oversize pistons were almost new, had the sleeves bored .080" over to 
fit. Fast forward to this evening when I fired it up for the first time 
since last September. It started immediately without changing petrol or 
charging the battery. Runs smooth as silk. I have done dozens of engines 
since this one, my very first, and have never had a better, smoother running 
4 banger than this TF.

Ed Woods

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 21 22:11:19 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 21:11:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Engine Blocks
In-Reply-To: <636890899.376619.1279758297375.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <F72AE8A6CE59499CA8EF43824CE70E78@userb38463fba5>
	<636890899.376619.1279758297375.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BDB75CE61C0442A7A4D236BFDA04FAB4@Meislaptop>

> Question:  Most antique LBCs, like MGA's, anyway,had solid blocks.  You
> can bore them to what, .003 over before running into trouble with too thin
> walls?

Generally, tho not always, you can go a LOT farther than .003".  .060" is
not uncommon.

>  or do machines put in somekind of custome sleeve to build the
> cylinder back up?

Sleeving worn cylinders is a standard operation.  In most cases, sleeves are
available off the shelf.  But even if not, custom sleeves can be made at a
cost comparable to TR liners.

Randall

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Jul 22 04:58:16 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 03:58:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR Engine Blocks
In-Reply-To: <636890899.376619.1279758297375.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <636890899.376619.1279758297375.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <356760.35729.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Can't really see the point of reboring an old sleeve - though it can be done.
Best option is to obtain a matching piston and sleeve set with all the
necessary 
seals. That way you can take a 1991cc engine up to 2138cc. Don't
know their 
availability in the US - but no problem in the UK. Would be
surprised if the 
block is damaged unless it froze over many times during
storage. Those blocks 
can take some 'hammer' - even at -40deg and no
anti-freeze

Jonmac




________________________________
From:
"terryrs at comcast.net" <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent:
Thu, 22 July, 2010 1:24:57
Subject: [TR] TR Engine Blocks

General restoration
question:  

I first found my "barnfind" '59 TR3A in a shed in Osinnee, NY for
$500 back in 
about 2001.  It had sat there since 1975.

It was a $500 car, no
question.

Anyway, it was so rusty, the only reason I wound up taking a chance
on the frame 
being solid was a) you could get all the parts for it, but also
b) I found out 
it had wetliners, so the car could be 100% restored to new
(except for the 
crank).

Question:  Most antique LBCs, like MGA's, anyway,had
solid blocks.  You can bore 
them to what, .003 over before running into
trouble with too thin walls?  So 
what do restorers do with cars they pick up,
begin a restoration, and find the 
block is shot.  Are there aftermarket new
blocks, or do machines put in somekind 
of custome sleeve to build the
cylinder back up?

Just curious.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Jul 22 07:38:10 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:38:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] 17 TR4s indicated at Heartland Park in August
Message-ID: <8CCF7BA4247E449-3CEC-12ED@Webmail-d109.sysops.aol.com>

Listers:

This is likely the biggest field of TR4s in history.

Who is the FASTEST TR4 DRIVER IN North America?

Who can out run Sam Halkias, National Champion 2009 in a TR6? He will have his
vintage prepared TR6.

VTR President, Blake Discher, will be with us in the paddock and supporting us
with a  VTR hospitality Tent.

This will be the location for autograph signings by Kas Kastner and Sam
Halkias.

Joe Alexander
VTR

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Jul 22 08:49:54 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 08:49:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR Engine Blocks
In-Reply-To: <356760.35729.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <636890899.376619.1279758297375.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<356760.35729.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <25455307184E4025B8681576DF503A97@bboffice>

John,
Is the 2138cc you quote using 86mm or 87mm pistons and sleeves?  And yes,
they are readily available in the US.
Thx,
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 4:58 AM
To: terryrs at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Engine Blocks

Can't really see the point of reboring an old sleeve - though it can be
done.
Best option is to obtain a matching piston and sleeve set with all the
necessary seals. That way you can take a 1991cc engine up to 2138cc. Don't
know their availability in the US - but no problem in the UK. Would be
surprised if the block is damaged unless it froze over many times during
storage. Those blocks can take some 'hammer' - even at -40deg and no
anti-freeze

Jonmac




________________________________
From:
"terryrs at comcast.net" <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent:
Thu, 22 July, 2010 1:24:57
Subject: [TR] TR Engine Blocks

General restoration
question:  

I first found my "barnfind" '59 TR3A in a shed in Osinnee, NY for $500 back
in about 2001.  It had sat there since 1975.

It was a $500 car, no
question.

Anyway, it was so rusty, the only reason I wound up taking a chance on the
frame being solid was a) you could get all the parts for it, but also
b) I found out
it had wetliners, so the car could be 100% restored to new (except for the
crank).

Question:  Most antique LBCs, like MGA's, anyway,had solid blocks.  You can
bore them to what, .003 over before running into trouble with too thin
walls?  So what do restorers do with cars they pick up, begin a restoration,
and find the block is shot.  Are there aftermarket new blocks, or do
machines put in somekind of custome sleeve to build the cylinder back up?

Just curious.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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_______________________________________________
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From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Jul 22 09:36:27 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:36:27 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR Engine Blocks
In-Reply-To: <25455307184E4025B8681576DF503A97@bboffice>
References: <636890899.376619.1279758297375.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<356760.35729.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<25455307184E4025B8681576DF503A97@bboffice>
Message-ID: <890866.36286.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi, Bill

Sorry but can't answer that query on piston size as I don't and
never have owned 
a TR that required such an engine rebuild.
If it's any help,
which I know it isn't :) I did rebuild my Ferguson tractor 
engine with 2138
sleeves and pistons and they were a matching set. Must admit I 
was concerned
about conrod suitability but it just bolted straight up and I had 
an
immediate increase of cubic capacity from 1850 to 2138cc. From a performance
angle, I can tell you that once we'd done a break-in by ploughing quite a
large 
field which took a week of my leisure time, I could do 15 amps on the
level 
(instead of downhill as previously) and with a rebuilt hydraulic pump,
I could 
easily lift six full churns of milk on the rear linkage instead of
four.
But, I have to remember that such esoteric recollections don't really
apply to 
sports cars with basically the same engine - though you certainly
can't pull 
five tons of hay on a trailer with any TR fro 20TS to a TR8 which
I personally 
feel is rather a shame.

Jonmac

 
________________________________
From: "wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net>
To: John Macartney <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>; terryrs at comcast.net;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 22 July, 2010 15:49:54
Subject: RE: [TR] TR
Engine Blocks

John,
Is the 2138cc you quote using 86mm or 87mm pistons and
sleeves?  And yes,
they are readily available in the US.
Thx,
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent:
Thursday, July 22, 2010 4:58 AM
To: terryrs at comcast.net;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Engine Blocks

Can't really see
the point of reboring an old sleeve - though it can be
done.
Best option is to
obtain a matching piston and sleeve set with all the
necessary seals. That way
you can take a 1991cc engine up to 2138cc. Don't
know their availability in
the US - but no problem in the UK. Would be
surprised if the block is damaged
unless it froze over many times during
storage. Those blocks can take some
'hammer' - even at -40deg and no
anti-freeze

Jonmac
________________________________
From:
"terryrs at comcast.net"
<terryrs at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent:
Thu, 22 July, 2010
1:24:57
Subject: [TR] TR Engine Blocks

General restoration
question:  

I
first found my "barnfind" '59 TR3A in a shed in Osinnee, NY for $500 back
in
about 2001.  It had sat there since 1975.

It was a $500 car, no
question.
Anyway, it was so rusty, the only reason I wound up taking a chance on the
frame being solid was a) you could get all the parts for it, but also
b) I
found out
it had wetliners, so the car could be 100% restored to new (except
for the
crank).

Question:  Most antique LBCs, like MGA's, anyway,had solid
blocks.  You can
bore them to what, .003 over before running into trouble with
too thin
walls?  So what do restorers do with cars they pick up, begin a
restoration,
and find the block is shot.  Are there aftermarket new blocks, or
do
machines put in somekind of custome sleeve to build the cylinder back up?
Just curious.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From DPaige at srcity.org  Thu Jul 22 10:13:04 2010
From: DPaige at srcity.org (Paige, Dean)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:13:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs only
Message-ID: <0BBA449D9B70934797B17B38F789F1B92599937D72@MAIL5.sr.local>

Hey guys. I have been having cooling problems on my TR-6. since I put in a 14"
electric fan after a complete engine rebuild a few years ago. I have
determined that fan can't keep the temp down on hot days and so often causes
vapor lock issues. Oh well! So, to resolve the problem I bought the newly
recreated 13 blade belt driven fan from Moss. This part had been out of
production for at least 20 years. It was designed to push enough air to solve
the problems associated with the fuel injection system cooling problems in the
later TR-6s. One critical part in the installation was missing from my parts
bin, a fan extension Adaptor listed NA in all available catalogs. Looked
around locally and couldn't source one. Decided on a whim to contact someone I
hadn't dealt with in years since there was Moss et al available, Wayne Bier
now operating out of Stockton. I bought from him on a number of occasions in
the late 70's through the 80s over the years I was living in Santa Barbara

Wayne works almost exclusively through e-mail now. I e-mailed him yesterday
morning with info on the part I needed. Within a couple of hours he contacted
me and let me know he had to Adaptor on hand for $35. It was sent out
yesterday afternoon.

In talking with Wayne he let me know that he really didn't particularly like
to work but that he is still in business. Wayne has collected warehouses of
Triumph parts. So many that he has had to sell for scrap 8 TONS!! of parts and
equipment for Triumphs in the last couple of years. OH MY!!  A large stockpile
evidently remains. If you need it he likely has it. No doubt Wayne is out of
the ordinary and maybe a bit quirky but so are most of us.

Anyway if you are looking for those hard to find necessities I think he is the
go to guy. I have no financial interest but I know a good deal when I see it.
Just thought you would all like to know.

Deano

Wayne Bier, Owner

Triumphs Only

Stockton CA 95205

PH: 209-939-1020

Email: trnut at aol.com

Web: www.triumphsonly.com<outbind://20/www.triumphsonly.com>

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Jul 22 11:34:31 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 13:34:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft oil seal?
Message-ID: <62de1.868068f.3979db27@aol.com>

Hi all;
 
I'm in the process of ordering a few parts to change the timing chain on my 
 TR3A. In the parts supplier catalogues, I can find no evidence of a front  
crankshaft oil seal. Is that correct? I see there is an "oil deflector"  
(personally, I think that's what all oil seals should be called on British 
cars;  then there'd be no excuse from the manufacturer when they start 
leaking!).  However, I don't see a seal, as such. I'm using the Moss diagrams and 
the TRF  catalogue; I do have a photocopy of an original parts manual but, 
predictably,  the page I need is missing.
 
Thanks!
 
Tim

From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com  Thu Jul 22 12:50:47 2010
From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 13:50:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft oil seal?
In-Reply-To: <62de1.868068f.3979db27@aol.com>
References: <62de1.868068f.3979db27@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DBB63ED3AD8842AF92EAEB6C87569CC8@aitinc.local>

Tim, the Moss Part # 520-000

Terry Geiger
www.GeigerGarage.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <KingsCreekTrees at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 12:34
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft oil seal?


> Hi all;
>
> I'm in the process of ordering a few parts to change the timing chain on 
> my
> TR3A. In the parts supplier catalogues, I can find no evidence of a front
> crankshaft oil seal. Is that correct? I see there is an "oil deflector"
> (personally, I think that's what all oil seals should be called on British
> cars;  then there'd be no excuse from the manufacturer when they start
> leaking!).  However, I don't see a seal, as such. I'm using the Moss 
> diagrams and
> the TRF  catalogue; I do have a photocopy of an original parts manual but,
> predictably,  the page I need is missing.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tim

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 22 13:21:04 2010
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 12:21:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Valve cover vent
Message-ID: <AANLkTik52VUZ11Y9XiVLZYUlnkTRT7aCvujTLAAw142L@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all

Thanks to much help from this list, the rebuilt engine with Webers is
running strong. A question remains as to what to do with the venting gases
from the valve cover. The Stromberg carb setup, of course, recycled them
back into the air cleaners. When I got this car, the p.o. had a stainless
braid hose dangling down and behind the carbs.

As a start, I have a hose connected to a tap in the intake manifold, but
since that is behind one carb that is surely unbalancing the cards and
screwing up the mixture. I have thought of replacing this late tr4 cover
with the earlier style that has a large rear vertical exhaust pipe with some
sort of filter on top. But this is a less green solution than a recycle.

OTOH, I'm already less green since I installed the early style crankcase
vent down pipe to relieve crankcase pressure and hopefully thereby to reduce
the dreaded driveway drip. That does seem to have helped.

Any suggestions?

John Howard
TR4 runner
Stag still in boxes

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 22 14:11:15 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 13:11:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft oil seal?
In-Reply-To: <62de1.868068f.3979db27@aol.com>
References: <62de1.868068f.3979db27@aol.com>
Message-ID: <591565.90938.qm@web120012.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Tim 
the front oil seal is on the timing cover and runs against the front
pulley.
moss # 520-000
never had problems with this type of oil seal, unless
you running in excess of 
50000 miles. even then its pretty darn good.
especially since its at best 1940's 
technology maybe even late 1930's
frank
________________________________
From: "KingsCreekTrees at aol.com"
<KingsCreekTrees at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 22, 2010
10:34:31 AM
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft oil seal?

Hi all;

I'm in the process of
ordering a few parts to change the timing chain on my 
TR3A. In the parts
supplier catalogues, I can find no evidence of a front  
crankshaft oil seal.
Is that correct? I see there is an "oil deflector"  
(personally, I think
that's what all oil seals should be called on British 
cars;  then there'd be
no excuse from the manufacturer when they start 
leaking!).  However, I don't
see a seal, as such. I'm using the Moss diagrams 
and 

the TRF  catalogue; I
do have a photocopy of an original parts manual but, 
predictably,  the page I
need is missing.

Thanks!

Tim
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Jul 22 14:45:39 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 16:45:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] LINERS  -  REBORE
Message-ID: <8CCF7F5FAD1AE5D-22E4-62A5@webmail-m055.sysops.aol.com>

In response to boring liners or buying new.

My preference is to bore when I have known OEM LINERS.

We have bored both OEM and AFTERMARKET liners and there is a noticeable
difference in the material!!!!!!

83/86MM liners can easily be bored to 87MM.

To that end I had a tool and die shop make a holding fixture like we had at
John Deere.

The fixture is at a performance engine shop. I have mine done there and send
other racers to this shop.

I have no financial interest as no one needs another markup.

Contact me off the list if you need further information.

Joe Alexander

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 22 14:46:10 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 16:46:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] ignition wire
Message-ID: <DF39D6B4E3474D899E34870BBD37962A@Edscomputer>

List,

Is Packard 440 ignition wire or its equivalent still available? If so, where?

How about Rajah clips? Same question.

Ed Woods

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Jul 22 15:08:46 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:08:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft oil seal?
Message-ID: <bc810.7d252f3.397a0d5e@aol.com>

Thanks everyone. I get it now; I have a new timing chain cover oil seal  
already, but was thinking there was another seal further back. Sorry for the  
trouble! Now I also get the need for the "oil disperser".
 
Thanks again;
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the
  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Jul 22 19:49:09 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:49:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 fan question
Message-ID: <cc366.2e596147.397a4f15@aol.com>

Hi all;
 
On my TR3A, I've decided to carry out the TR6 fan conversion, though I know 
 there is much discussion against it. There's a chap local to me who has a 
garage  full of spare TR4-6 parts, so I asked him if he had a TR6 fan 
available. He has  three of them, he says, 13-blade ones. Now, my understanding 
was that TR6 fans  were 8-blade. Does anyone know if they changed, and whether 
or  not this 13-blade one will work with the Moss TR6 fan conversion kit 
that  they say is designed for the TR6 8-bladed one?
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 22 22:30:57 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:30:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] ignition wire
In-Reply-To: <DF39D6B4E3474D899E34870BBD37962A@Edscomputer>
References: <DF39D6B4E3474D899E34870BBD37962A@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <CF1EA07F4FA14D429CF79589119A6469@Meislaptop>

> Is Packard 440 ignition wire or its equivalent still available? If so,
> where?

My FLAPS has equivalent 7mm wire, by the foot.  A quick Google turned up
numerous sources of the real thing, eg
http://tinyurl.com/2bk2eje

> How about Rajah clips? Same question.

These folks seem to have a nice selection:
http://www.restorationstuff.com/RSC28.pdf

I recently bought some 145 degree NGK "sealed" plug terminals at
Rockauto.com that have a Bakelite (or similar) body with an integral EMI
suppression resistor, and silicone boots to seal to both the plug and wire.
Sorry I don't have the P/N handy, but maybe you can poke around and find
them.  They are commonly supplied for ATVs and Jet Skis where the plugs hang
out and get wet/dirty, so I expect them to work well on my TR.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 22 22:39:05 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:39:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Engine Blocks
In-Reply-To: <890866.36286.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <636890899.376619.1279758297375.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><356760.35729.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com><25455307184E4025B8681576DF503A97@bboffice>
	<890866.36286.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <88EC0CB7F7F847E8BF3FD80F53C6E023@Meislaptop>

> though you certainly
> can't pull
> five tons of hay on a trailer with any TR fro 20TS to a TR8 which
> I personally
> feel is rather a shame.

Hmmm, I'm not sure I agree with that.  At the very least, it would be
interesting to try.  

Anyone for adding "TRactor pulls" to the list of events at Triumphest??
<G>

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 22 22:52:40 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:52:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Engine Blocks
In-Reply-To: <25455307184E4025B8681576DF503A97@bboffice>
References: <636890899.376619.1279758297375.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><356760.35729.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<25455307184E4025B8681576DF503A97@bboffice>
Message-ID: <C77F31E407DF4CBC89A383C1B88FC56E@Meislaptop>

> Is the 2138cc you quote using 86mm or 87mm pistons and sleeves?

83mm = 1991cc
86mm = 2138cc
87mm = 2188cc
89mm = 2289cc

> Can't really see the point of reboring an old sleeve - though it can be
> done.

Typically there is a small savings in cost; plus of course more assurance
that the liners are made of a suitable alloy.  Some of the ones sold as new
appear to be made from recycled curry tins and don't hold up as well.

But we seem to have some thread drift here ... Terry's original question was
about motors WITHOUT wet sleeves, such as the MGA.

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Jul 23 05:41:36 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 07:41:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 fan question
In-Reply-To: <cc366.2e596147.397a4f15@aol.com>
References: <cc366.2e596147.397a4f15@aol.com>
Message-ID: <201007230741.37992.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday, July 22, 2010 09:49:09 pm KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:
> Hi all;
> 
> On my TR3A, I've decided to carry out the TR6 fan conversion, though I know
>  there is much discussion against it. There's a chap local to me who has a
> garage  full of spare TR4-6 parts, so I asked him if he had a TR6 fan
> available. He has  three of them, he says, 13-blade ones. Now, my
> understanding was that TR6 fans  were 8-blade. Does anyone know if they
> changed, and whether or  not this 13-blade one will work with the Moss TR6
> fan conversion kit that  they say is designed for the TR6 8-bladed one?
> 
> Tim
> 
Tim,

My 72 6 has a 13 blade fan. It is the red one. I believe the 8 blade is yellow 
and was fitted prior to 72. If you fit this fan it will pull a lot of air, 
more than the stock 3 and even the 4 fan.

As far as working with the Moss kit I think you should give them a call.

My 58 3 has the TR4 4 blade fan which works good for me. No overheating even 
last week in 90+ heat.

Make sure you fit something to direct the air flow into the radiator if you 
have a wide mouth 3. I believe TRF has a kit for some sort of radiator cowl.

Bob

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Fri Jul 23 07:33:40 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 09:33:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 fan question
Message-ID: <e327a.306f8628.397af434@aol.com>

Thanks everyone for the fan info. I have e-mailed Moss to ask if the 13  
blade TR6 fan will work with the conversion on a TR3A, but to me that's way 
too  much air for this engine to move. In the meantime, I'll start searching 
for a  used 8-blade one (NLA new, apparently).
 
Thanks again;
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Fri Jul 23 09:17:40 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 11:17:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 fan question
In-Reply-To: <e327a.306f8628.397af434@aol.com>
References: <e327a.306f8628.397af434@aol.com>
Message-ID: <35C7F3746677436CA2E4420D10A151B6@AlexPC>

Tim,
I have a TR6 yellow fan mounted on my TR3A. It is mounted backwards in order 
for it to clear the cross bar. (Works the same) The Roadster Factory in PA 
sells the yellow fan new. It works great in Florida. This past week it was 
in the high 90's. No problems. I also run a pusher electric on my TR3A. I 
can control the on/off mode. I do not need it here in Florida. My car runs 
around 185 degrees F on the hottest days.
Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <KingsCreekTrees at aol.com>
To: <yellowtr at adelphia.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 fan question


> Thanks everyone for the fan info. I have e-mailed Moss to ask if the 13
> blade TR6 fan will work with the conversion on a TR3A, but to me that's 
> way
> too  much air for this engine to move. In the meantime, I'll start 
> searching
> for a  used 8-blade one (NLA new, apparently).
>
> Thanks again;
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
> 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
> Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
> Canada
> Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_
> (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/)
>
> Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for
> horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape 
> Association, the
> Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society 
> and
> the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario
>
> _______________________________________________

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri Jul 23 10:18:28 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 12:18:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] ignition wire
References: <DF39D6B4E3474D899E34870BBD37962A@Edscomputer>
	<CF1EA07F4FA14D429CF79589119A6469@Meislaptop>
Message-ID: <E80F5BBCDF544DA7BB04318005A50A18@Edscomputer>

Thanks Randall. I've ordered both the Packard wire and the Rajah clips. I'm 
stuck in the '50s. Still prefer the good old stuff. About the only thing 
I've "upgraded" on my TR3 is the starter and then only to preserve the 
original which is still around here somewhere, carefully packed away where I 
have little chance of finding it.

Ed Woods
'60 TR3 with a generator and non-synchro o/d 'box 

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Fri Jul 23 12:20:08 2010
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 13:20:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tractor Pulls...
Message-ID: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C788810D8416@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET>

TRiumphs  would do better than this TRabant...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5B7H2sU2kF4

Brian

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Fri Jul 23 12:32:51 2010
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:32:51 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 fan question
Message-ID: <19d9b.14a0bee9.397b3a53@aol.com>

I have a white plastic fan on my TR3.  Not sure what car it came off  of 
but it fits.  The car is undergoing restoration so I'm not sure how it  will 
work on real operation.  Any ideas?
 
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul 23 13:55:10 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 12:55:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Valve cover vent
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik52VUZ11Y9XiVLZYUlnkTRT7aCvujTLAAw142L@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTik52VUZ11Y9XiVLZYUlnkTRT7aCvujTLAAw142L@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimoTCsyx_HvWHdTGeBLUC1-GiOHENBDzETYW+x5@mail.gmail.com>

The early TR4 valve cover with the breathing oil fill cap sounds
reasonable to me.

BTW -- Saw an Coast Guard official on TV commenting on the possible
effect on the BP Spill from tropical storm Bonnie -- he said "We may
be forced to release some hydrocarbons".

Yeah, that's the ticket.  My car doesn't leak oil, it releases hydrocarbons.

Geo

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 23 14:02:18 2010
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 13:02:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 fan question
In-Reply-To: <19d9b.14a0bee9.397b3a53@aol.com>
References: <19d9b.14a0bee9.397b3a53@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6B6A915F-0B23-4D1E-BB2D-7991BC96CF15@gmail.com>

Paint it yellow???  :-)

John

On  23 Jul, 2010, at 11:32 AM, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote:

> I have a white plastic fan on my TR3.  Not sure what car it came off  of
> but it fits.  The car is undergoing restoration so I'm not sure how it  will
> work on real operation.  Any ideas?
>
> Sam Clark
> Green Country Triumphs
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com
>

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul 23 14:10:29 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 13:10:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 fan question
In-Reply-To: <35C7F3746677436CA2E4420D10A151B6@AlexPC>
References: <e327a.306f8628.397af434@aol.com>
	<35C7F3746677436CA2E4420D10A151B6@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikT0q23TWp-7LV9A6Vr8xeBW8PxFAsoRXUbWYNX@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/23/10, Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> ...The Roadster Factory in PA sells the yellow fan new.

Moss also lists them on their site:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=835-260&WebCatalogID=0

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 23 15:25:40 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 16:25:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 fan question
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikT0q23TWp-7LV9A6Vr8xeBW8PxFAsoRXUbWYNX@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e327a.306f8628.397af434@aol.com>,
	<35C7F3746677436CA2E4420D10A151B6@AlexPC>,
	<AANLkTikT0q23TWp-7LV9A6Vr8xeBW8PxFAsoRXUbWYNX@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W31292BF9DC9CA20C658052E1A30@phx.gbl>

They list them as NA. %^(




Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 13:10:29 -0700
> From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 fan question
>
> On 7/23/10, Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> > ...The Roadster Factory in PA sells the yellow fan new.
>
> Moss also lists them on their site:
>
>
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=835-260&WebCatal
ogID=0
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From tr6parts at charter.net  Fri Jul 23 16:12:54 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 18:12:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 fan question
References: <e327a.306f8628.397af434@aol.com><35C7F3746677436CA2E4420D10A151B6@AlexPC>
	<AANLkTikT0q23TWp-7LV9A6Vr8xeBW8PxFAsoRXUbWYNX@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1A6E7277F6AA44F6924982D1F336A5E6@Alan>

NA in the ad means not available.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Cc: "*Triumphs List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 fan question


> On 7/23/10, Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>> ...The Roadster Factory in PA sells the yellow fan new.
>
> Moss also lists them on their site:
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=835-260&WebCatalogID=0
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Fri Jul 23 18:47:57 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 20:47:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Free rotating fan (red)
Message-ID: <D7F72DB1540347DEBD0535A084D55EBD@AlexPC>

Tomorrow morning I will be pulling the radiator and all associated items for
the repair of my "free flying" fan. As some of you may remember, the locating
pins that lock the fan extension (red fan) to the crank pulley on my TR6
backed out (2x) causing the fan to free spin and then the bolt that holds the
extension to the crank back out and ultimately get ripped out of the crank.

Well I now have all the replacement parts and have a few questions that are
not listed in the Bentley Manual.
  a.. Is the torque on the bolt 10-14 lbs?
  b.. Do the locating pins go in the crank pulley or the extension, or does it
not matter?
  c.. If the crank pulley then does it need to be removed to insert the pins?
  d.. Should they be secured with thread lock? (even though there are no
threads)
Or anything else I should be aware of.

Thanks,
Alex Manzo
72 TR6
59 TR3A

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Jul 23 21:51:22 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 22:51:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4_Valve_cover_vent?=
Message-ID: <20100724035018.29999187653@autox.team.net>

Been laughing at all the ignorant pols and their appointees acting like they know something about the oil business!
What kills me is the way the public believes these morons!
Makes me think of recycling my oil by pouring it back where it came from.....
But no, I didn't.  

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Date: Fri, Jul 23, 2010 14:55
Subject: [TR] TR4 Valve cover vent
To: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7 at gmail.com>
Cc: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>


The early TR4 valve cover with the breathing oil fill cap sounds
reasonable to me.

BTW -- Saw an Coast Guard official on TV commenting on the possible
effect on the BP Spill from tropical storm Bonnie -- he said "We may
be forced to release some hydrocarbons".

Yeah, that's the ticket.  My car doesn't leak oil, it releases hydrocarbons.

Geo

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jul 24 14:34:31 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 14:34:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas  generator
Message-ID: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>

Good weekend List,
 
I found this Moss video to show how to test a generator but now I am a bit
more confused than before I watched it.  It shows a voltmeter with the two
leads going off camera and attached to???, I think a battery?  Also, it
shows two leads attached to the generator and going to ???, ( as this
appears to be a bench test are they trying to simulate the generator being
in a vehicle?).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR2_y0EIGRU
 
 
My thinking is that I should be able to place the generator on the bench and
spin it at around 3,000RPM and look for a reading in excess of 12 volts.  Is
this correct?
 
Is there a simple proved why to test a generator before re-installing it?  
 
As always, your thoughts and explanations are welcome and appreciated/
 
All the best,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 24 20:18:34 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 19:18:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 elbow/cockpit capping pieces
Message-ID: <877050.16806.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

My tr-3 came without any type of finished capping around the cockpit.  (it did 
have the round capping pieces on the top of each door).

I've noticed in the tr-3 catalog that there are finished metal capping pieces 
for the cockpit surround which appear to be thin clip like pieces.  In another 
area of the catalog there are cockpit "recovering" kits which appear to be 
material however I'm not sure what they cover.  Do they cover the metal pieces?  
Or is there supposed to be rounded pieces (like those on top of the doors) which 
go around the cockpit and are covered with material?

thanks in advance

gary n.

From allegrorover at mac.com  Sun Jul 25 00:01:06 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 23:01:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr-3 elbow/cockpit capping pieces
In-Reply-To: <877050.16806.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <877050.16806.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <98717511-4EDC-437C-8777-E3B4AFC74745@mac.com>

Gary, 
the material covers the metal, in some ares there is a little cushion that covers the top of the metal, to make it a little more comfortable, but not much.
Mine are just spray glued to the metal cappings, then basically they are a press fit on the area they belong. The rear deck capping I believe is screwed into place, other than the dash area all others are pressed on.
Good luck



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jul 25 08:15:39 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:15:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas  generator
In-Reply-To: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>
References: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>
Message-ID: <201007251015.41292.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, July 24, 2010 04:34:31 pm wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Good weekend List,
> 
> I found this Moss video to show how to test a generator but now I am a bit
> more confused than before I watched it.  It shows a voltmeter with the two
> leads going off camera and attached to???, I think a battery?  Also, it
> shows two leads attached to the generator and going to ???, ( as this
> appears to be a bench test are they trying to simulate the generator being
> in a vehicle?).
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR2_y0EIGRU
> 
> 
> My thinking is that I should be able to place the generator on the bench
> and spin it at around 3,000RPM and look for a reading in excess of 12
> volts.  Is this correct?
> 
> Is there a simple proved why to test a generator before re-installing it?
> 
> As always, your thoughts and explanations are welcome and appreciated/
> 
> All the best,
> Bill
Bill,

If I remember correctly, the way I test a generator is to attach a + lead to 
ground on the generator from the battery and - to both the small and large 
spade connectors and if the generator spins like a motor it is good to go. I 
am sure there are other ways to check out each circuit with a meter. I believe 
there is a diagnostic on the web somewhere to check the entire charging 
circuit.

Bob

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Jul 25 08:22:06 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 08:22:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] tr-3 elbow/cockpit capping pieces
In-Reply-To: <877050.16806.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <877050.16806.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0E543FB42DE74249B24BDEE4E5B87A0F@bboffice>

Gary,
You will need both the metal capping and the covering kits.  The only place
there is padding is on the doors, that you already have, the rest of the
pieces are just put on directly to the metal with contact cement.  

BTW, if you are going to do this yourself be sure to take you time a dry-fit
everything first.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 8:19 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr-3 elbow/cockpit capping pieces

My tr-3 came without any type of finished capping around the cockpit.  (it
did have the round capping pieces on the top of each door).

I've noticed in the tr-3 catalog that there are finished metal capping
pieces for the cockpit surround which appear to be thin clip like pieces.
In another area of the catalog there are cockpit "recovering" kits which
appear to be material however I'm not sure what they cover.  Do they cover
the metal pieces?  
Or is there supposed to be rounded pieces (like those on top of the doors)
which go around the cockpit and are covered with material?

thanks in advance

gary n.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 25 08:50:40 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 07:50:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Moss Video to test Lucas  generator
In-Reply-To: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>
References: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>
Message-ID: <2c3d01cb2c08$c07ed850$0301a8c0@randall>

> I found this Moss video to show how to test a generator but 
> now I am a bit
> more confused than before I watched it.

Not surprising!  The test they show at the beginning would only apply if the
generator was being spun at several thousand rpm.

> ( as this
> appears to be a bench test are they trying to simulate the 
> generator being
> in a vehicle?).

I believe so, yes.

> My thinking is that I should be able to place the generator 
> on the bench and
> spin it at around 3,000RPM and look for a reading in excess 
> of 12 volts.  Is this correct?

Well, there are some caveats.  Most importantly, you should have some means
of either "sneaking up" on the test conditions, or have a load (like a
battery) on the generator.  Otherwise, the generator is quite capable of
generating enough voltage to damage itself.  Lucas warns not to let the
output voltage exceed 20 volts.

You will also need to provide field current; either by connecting the field
to the armature, or to an external power source (like a battery as shown in
the video).

And this test is NOT definitive; a partially failed generator may put out
12v but not enough current to actually charge the battery.

> Is there a simple proved why to test a generator before 
> re-installing it?  

If you are just doing this once, for your own car, then IMO setting up a
reliable bench test is more hassle than it is worth.  Just do a visual
inspection and then, if all appears OK, install the generator on the car to
test it.  Or, find an old fashioned "auto electric" shop and have them test
it for you on their equipment.

BTW, there is a copy of the Lucas "Generator & Control Box tests" booklet
available at
http://tinyurl.com/37voevm
(You may need to create a Gmail account first)

Randall

From bobannand at hfx.eastlink.ca  Sun Jul 25 09:26:35 2010
From: bobannand at hfx.eastlink.ca (Bob Annand)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 12:26:35 -0300
Subject: [TR] tr-3 elbow/cockpit capping pieces
References: <877050.16806.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<0E543FB42DE74249B24BDEE4E5B87A0F@bboffice>
Message-ID: <2B261FF949684A2394E9BCAC77B9A0A8@YOUR325EAEAE2D>

I drove my TR3 for years without the 3 rear cappings. I finally located a 
set, and straightened, covered and fitted them. Imagine my dismay when I 
discovered that my tonneau, hood set stick cover and hood would no longer 
fit.

Bob
TS57799L

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wbeech at flash.net>
To: "'Gary Nafziger'" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 elbow/cockpit capping pieces


> Gary,
> You will need both the metal capping and the covering kits.  The only 
> place
> there is padding is on the doors, that you already have, the rest of the
> pieces are just put on directly to the metal with contact cement.
>
> BTW, if you are going to do this yourself be sure to take you time a 
> dry-fit
> everything first.

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Sun Jul 25 14:13:47 2010
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 14:13:47 -0600
Subject: [TR] Stags at the Kastner Cup Races in Topeka Kansas USA August
 19-22
Message-ID: <4C4C9AFB.8050905@triumphstagclub.org>

Hi All,

I am wondering how many folks are going to the Friends of Triumph 
Kastner Cup Races in Topeka Kansas August 19-22 ( featured race info  
http://www.heartlandvintageracing.com/) where Triumph is the featured 
Marque?

This is a convenient day's drive from a lot of places in the Central 
USA, and across a weekend too!

I'd like to see a strong showing of ALL Triumphs including Triumph Stags 
show up in the Heartland as there has not been a good gathering of "the 
herd" in several years now, certainly not one exceeding a count close to 
24 Stags !! It is well past the time for new things to happen in the 
long term support and enjoyment of our cars.

There are easily over 100 Stags within a days drive of Topeka (not to 
mention many hundreds of other Triumphs)  ... so it would be a very 
convenient gathering of the herd, we could coordinate a spot in the race 
paddocks reserved just for Triumph Stags smack dab in the middle of FoT, 
maybe have Uncle Jack as the center piece with all the TTA stickers ??  
How appropriate!!!

If you are planning on attending, want to talk Triumphs, Triumph Stags, 
coordinating new Triumph Stag support in North America including herding 
options,  please contact me off list and do actively continue this 
discussion on the Forums!

Cheers!

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Sun Jul 25 14:59:02 2010
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 15:59:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Anti Sway Bar
Message-ID: <DFEAF0B6-98CC-4AE2-AE28-4C7655B4ACD7@ties2.net>

I am thinking about adding a front anti sway bar to my TR3A. Even my  
wife thinks its a good idea, "Maybe I won't need to hang on so tight  
around corners."

I would appreciate any advice, where to buy, how difficult, even, is  
it worth it. Thanks.

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Jul 25 15:34:01 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 17:34:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Stags at the Kastner Cup Races in Topeka Kansas
 USA August 19-22
In-Reply-To: <4C4C9AFB.8050905@triumphstagclub.org>
References: <4C4C9AFB.8050905@triumphstagclub.org>
Message-ID: <8CCFA583B9050B0-1F98-25A0F@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com>

Glenn,

 Your timing to mention this FOT Kastner Cup event couldnt be any better.

I wanted 'uncle jack' as the honorary pace car as a tribute to my long time
friend. Mr. Ethier has another event on his schedule that he doesnt want to
miss. I understand that.

However, it would be cool to have a gathering of Stags with us.

We have a number of features planned that will appeal to everyone.

Ramada Inn has very special rates available. Cheaper than Super 8, I hear.

Entertainment on Saturday night. Live music by Soul to Soul out of Texas.

You get a herd of stags to come and we will pay special attention to you.

Kas, of course will be there.

Some other folks of TRIUMPH racing history will be there telling stories of
racing in the 50s.

VTR is going to have something special going on in the paddock as well as a
deluxe poster for the second year.

Suitable for autographing by Kas and Sam....and then frame it.

We are honoring Sam Halkias and he will have the SCCA TR6 Champ Car on display
and driving his vintage TR6.

In the field of entries there may be as many as 18 TR4s...the biggest showing
of TR4s that I am aware of.

This event is about Triumphs, for Triumph people.  Triumphs will be the
stars.

Gate is inexpensive for the weekend.

We have a great T-SHIRT with Sam Halkias on it. We are going to offer it to
all Triumph guys....$12.50 I think.

This is an opportunity for central states TRIUMPHS to participate in what is
usually held on either coast.  2011 is west and 2012 will be east..........

VENDOR and AUTOJUMBLE activity. Rent a vendor space for $100 and get passes,
then sell off some of spares...get some guys together and do it.

Let me know, so we can plan for you. Join us in the paddock!

Thanks Glenn,

Joe Alexander
FOT






-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn A. Merrell - TSN <StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org>
To: Triumph Stag Discussion Forum <stag at digest.net>; Triumph Triumphlist
<triumphs at autox.team.net>; Spitfires Mail List Members
<spitfires at autox.team.net>; TR8 Mail List Members <tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>;
6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 25, 2010 3:13 pm
Subject: [6pack] Stags at the Kastner Cup Races in Topeka Kansas USA August
19-22


Hi All,

I am wondering how many folks are going to the Friends of Triumph Kastner Cup
Races in Topeka Kansas August 19-22 ( featured race info
http://www.heartlandvintageracing.com/) where Triumph is the featured Marque?

This is a convenient day's drive from a lot of places in the Central USA, and
across a weekend too!

I'd like to see a strong showing of ALL Triumphs including Triumph Stags show
up in the Heartland as there has not been a good gathering of "the herd" in
several years now, certainly not one exceeding a count close to 24 Stags !! It
is well past the time for new things to happen in the long term support and
enjoyment of our cars.

There are easily over 100 Stags within a days drive of Topeka (not to mention
many hundreds of other Triumphs) ... so it would be a very convenient
gathering of the herd, we could coordinate a spot in the race paddocks
reserved just for Triumph Stags smack dab in the middle of FoT, maybe have
Uncle Jack as the center piece with all the TTA stickers ?? How appropriate!!!

If you are planning on attending, want to talk Triumphs, Triumph Stags,
coordinating new Triumph Stag support in North America including herding
options, please contact me off list and do actively continue this discussion
on the Forums!

Cheers!

-- Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com

From bbick59 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 25 16:06:31 2010
From: bbick59 at gmail.com (bill bickerton)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 18:06:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=FY5TFGmaJGNT1WdO7Z=YELe_7siAgR9D323-v@mail.gmail.com>

Hi list, I'm hoping someone out there can help me out with my brake bleeding
issue however, I'm sure you are all out enjoying your TR's while i sit it
the garage watching air bubbles all day.

What I'm trying to accomplish is to transition from DOT 3 to DOT 5, i have
speed bleeders and I've tried to bleed the conventional way with no luck so
i am now using an EZ bleeder system that uses the vacuum created by the air
compressor in order to draw new fluids down through the system, still no
luck just bubbles.

Here is some history of what I've done to the car that brought me to this
point.
1. rebuilt calipers
2. new caliper pistons
3. new stainless steel brake hoses
4. rebuilt master cylinder
5. blew out brake lines with air after removing the DOT 3
6. ran denatured alcohol through the lines prior to filling the MC with DOT5


I've checked all the lines for leaks (visually) and there doesn't appear to
be any, plus i would see liquid spots on the floor.
One thing i did that might be important to this story (hoping it's not) i
had to spit one of my calipers in order to remove a fused piston however, i
replaced the small O ring between the caliper and used the correct torque(s)
when putting them back together. At this point i do not see any leaking of
fluid between the two half.

I've been working on bleeding my brakes for 3 days now and the air bubbles
just keep coming and the pedal is mushy. I'm hoping that someone out there
may have experienced the same thing and has some tips on how you overcame
the issue.

Thanks all,
Bill

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Sun Jul 25 16:23:18 2010
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 15:23:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Anti Sway Bar
References: <DFEAF0B6-98CC-4AE2-AE28-4C7655B4ACD7@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <4CBF4001756343E3B762EA6C9205A3E3@paulal73q2sjay>

It's an easy installation.  Well worth it.   I bought mine directly from 
Addco.  You might also want to try Amazon.com which offers free shipping 
over $35 or Jegs or Summit.
paulw
64TR4
56TR3
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe DeMuth" <jdemuth at ties2.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 1:59 PM
Subject: [TR] Anti Sway Bar


>I am thinking about adding a front anti sway bar to my TR3A. Even my  wife 
>thinks its a good idea, "Maybe I won't need to hang on so tight  around 
>corners."
>
> I would appreciate any advice, where to buy, how difficult, even, is  it 
> worth it. Thanks.

From bbick59 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 25 16:51:36 2010
From: bbick59 at gmail.com (bill bickerton)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 18:51:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Brake Bleeding
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=FY5TFGmaJGNT1WdO7Z=YELe_7siAgR9D323-v@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTi=FY5TFGmaJGNT1WdO7Z=YELe_7siAgR9D323-v@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTina3YhX=REFD068vm7FMHTw+8_u+umjk0PuBJ07@mail.gmail.com>

Should have mentioned what kind of car i'm dealing with:
1964 Triumph TR4 with type C calipers.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: bill bickerton <bbick59 at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, Jul 25, 2010 at 6:06 PM
Subject: Brake Bleeding
To: triumphs at autox.team.net


Hi list, I'm hoping someone out there can help me out with my brake bleeding
issue however, I'm sure you are all out enjoying your TR's while i sit it
the garage watching air bubbles all day.

What I'm trying to accomplish is to transition from DOT 3 to DOT 5, i have
speed bleeders and I've tried to bleed the conventional way with no luck so
i am now using an EZ bleeder system that uses the vacuum created by the air
compressor in order to draw new fluids down through the system, still no
luck just bubbles.

Here is some history of what I've done to the car that brought me to this
point.
1. rebuilt calipers
2. new caliper pistons
3. new stainless steel brake hoses
4. rebuilt master cylinder
5. blew out brake lines with air after removing the DOT 3
6. ran denatured alcohol through the lines prior to filling the MC with DOT5


I've checked all the lines for leaks (visually) and there doesn't appear to
be any, plus i would see liquid spots on the floor.
One thing i did that might be important to this story (hoping it's not) i
had to split one of my calipers in order to remove a fused piston however, i
replaced the small O ring between the caliper and used the correct torque(s)
when putting them back together. At this point i do not see any leaking of
fluid between the two halves.

I've been working on bleeding my brakes for 3 days now and the air bubbles
just keep coming and the pedal is mushy. I'm hoping that someone out there
may have experienced the same thing and has some tips on how you overcame
the issue.

Thanks all,
Bill

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Sun Jul 25 17:43:37 2010
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 17:43:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] Stags at the Kastner Cup Races in Topeka Kansas USA August
 19-22
In-Reply-To: <8CCFA583B9050B0-1F98-25A0F@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com>
References: <4C4C9AFB.8050905@triumphstagclub.org>
	<8CCFA583B9050B0-1F98-25A0F@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C4CCC29.6000802@triumphstagclub.org>

Joe,

You better believe you will be #1 on my list for contact, notification 
and for planning to be part of the Paddock activities.

Maybe Phil is able to reconsider his schedule after seeing the potential 
publicity for uncle jack, certainly if he can get VIP status for all the 
racer events.  And Phil races too, if I recall correctly.  But if his 
other event is pre-scheduled or on the personal commitment calendar, I 
am sure we would understand.  It would be nice since Vintage Triumph 
Register just added Jack Drews to the Honorary Membership listing ... 
(nudge nudge hint hint)

As to attendance and gathering of the herd and other Triumphs, I planted 
the thought with the usual fertilizer, rattled the bushes and cages as 
usual, so let's see how many are willing to come out to one MAJOR 
Triumph party!!
I also posted on the British Car Forum so this should be getting maximum 
exposure to all the Triumph clans.  IF anyone is sponsoring a Paddock 
tent with free beer

If I recall there were something over 250 Triumphs at Watkins Glen in 
2008 including all the racers?  The Heartland Gran Prix should be able 
to produce far more than that!!

Cheers!

Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org



On 7/25/2010 3:34 PM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
> Glenn,
>
>   Your timing to mention this FOT Kastner Cup event couldnt be any better.
>
> I wanted 'uncle jack' as the honorary pace car as a tribute to my long time
> friend. Mr. Ethier has another event on his schedule that he doesnt want to
> miss. I understand that.
>
> However, it would be cool to have a gathering of Stags with us.
>
> We have a number of features planned that will appeal to everyone.
>
> Ramada Inn has very special rates available. Cheaper than Super 8, I hear.
>
> Entertainment on Saturday night. Live music by Soul to Soul out of Texas.
>
> You get a herd of stags to come and we will pay special attention to you.
>
> Kas, of course will be there.
>
> Some other folks of TRIUMPH racing history will be there telling stories of
> racing in the 50s.
>
> VTR is going to have something special going on in the paddock as well as a
> deluxe poster for the second year.
>
> Suitable for autographing by Kas and Sam....and then frame it.
>
> We are honoring Sam Halkias and he will have the SCCA TR6 Champ Car on display
> and driving his vintage TR6.
>
> In the field of entries there may be as many as 18 TR4s...the biggest showing
> of TR4s that I am aware of.
>
> This event is about Triumphs, for Triumph people.  Triumphs will be the
> stars.
>
> Gate is inexpensive for the weekend.
>
> We have a great T-SHIRT with Sam Halkias on it. We are going to offer it to
> all Triumph guys....$12.50 I think.
>
> This is an opportunity for central states TRIUMPHS to participate in what is
> usually held on either coast.  2011 is west and 2012 will be east..........
>
> VENDOR and AUTOJUMBLE activity. Rent a vendor space for $100 and get passes,
> then sell off some of spares...get some guys together and do it.
>
> Let me know, so we can plan for you. Join us in the paddock!
>
> Thanks Glenn,
>
> Joe Alexander
> FOT

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jul 25 18:00:41 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 20:00:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Brake Bleeding
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTina3YhX=REFD068vm7FMHTw+8_u+umjk0PuBJ07@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTi=FY5TFGmaJGNT1WdO7Z=YELe_7siAgR9D323-v@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTina3YhX=REFD068vm7FMHTw+8_u+umjk0PuBJ07@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201007252000.41768.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, July 25, 2010 06:51:36 pm bill bickerton wrote:
> Should have mentioned what kind of car i'm dealing with:
> 1964 Triumph TR4 with type C calipers.
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: bill bickerton <bbick59 at gmail.com>
> Date: Sun, Jul 25, 2010 at 6:06 PM
> Subject: Brake Bleeding
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> 
> Hi list, I'm hoping someone out there can help me out with my brake
> bleeding issue however, I'm sure you are all out enjoying your TR's while
> i sit it the garage watching air bubbles all day.
> 
> What I'm trying to accomplish is to transition from DOT 3 to DOT 5, i have
> speed bleeders and I've tried to bleed the conventional way with no luck so
> i am now using an EZ bleeder system that uses the vacuum created by the air
> compressor in order to draw new fluids down through the system, still no
> luck just bubbles.
> 
> Here is some history of what I've done to the car that brought me to this
> point.
> 1. rebuilt calipers
> 2. new caliper pistons
> 3. new stainless steel brake hoses
> 4. rebuilt master cylinder
> 5. blew out brake lines with air after removing the DOT 3
> 6. ran denatured alcohol through the lines prior to filling the MC with
> DOT5
> 
> 
> I've checked all the lines for leaks (visually) and there doesn't appear to
> be any, plus i would see liquid spots on the floor.
> One thing i did that might be important to this story (hoping it's not) i
> had to split one of my calipers in order to remove a fused piston however,
> i replaced the small O ring between the caliper and used the correct
> torque(s) when putting them back together. At this point i do not see any
> leaking of fluid between the two halves.
> 
> I've been working on bleeding my brakes for 3 days now and the air bubbles
> just keep coming and the pedal is mushy. I'm hoping that someone out there
> may have experienced the same thing and has some tips on how you overcame
> the issue.
> 
> Thanks all,
> Bill
> 
Bill,

Sounds to me like a fitting is not secure.

I have used speed bleeders on my 4 with no problem. They work great.

I would go inspect all break line fittings for tightness and check again for 
leaks.

I tried the EZ bleeder system but it didnt work for me. It helps to get the 
master cyl. primed but that is about all.

Try putting a regular bleed screw in the right most rear brake cyl. and just 
let it leak while connect to a bleed hose for awhile.
Then replace with the speed bleeder and if you are still getting air there you 
must have air coming from somewhere.

Good luck.

Bob

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Jul 25 18:43:50 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 20:43:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anti Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <4CBF4001756343E3B762EA6C9205A3E3@paulal73q2sjay>
References: <DFEAF0B6-98CC-4AE2-AE28-4C7655B4ACD7@ties2.net>
	<4CBF4001756343E3B762EA6C9205A3E3@paulal73q2sjay>
Message-ID: <001001cb2c5b$9e921150$dbb633f0$@net>

They do show up on eBay periodically.  Sometimes at no savings but worth
looking.
Link too long but search on TR3* Addco  (including the *)  $166 Buy it now
or Best Offer
NFI

C



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Willoughby
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 6:23 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Anti Sway Bar

It's an easy installation.  Well worth it.   I bought mine directly from 
Addco.  You might also want to try Amazon.com which offers free shipping 
over $35 or Jegs or Summit.
paulw
64TR4
56TR3
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe DeMuth" <jdemuth at ties2.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 1:59 PM
Subject: [TR] Anti Sway Bar


>I am thinking about adding a front anti sway bar to my TR3A. Even my  wife 
>thinks its a good idea, "Maybe I won't need to hang on so tight  around 
>corners."
>
> I would appreciate any advice, where to buy, how difficult, even, is  it 
> worth it. Thanks.

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 25 18:49:01 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 17:49:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Anti Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <DFEAF0B6-98CC-4AE2-AE28-4C7655B4ACD7@ties2.net>
References: <DFEAF0B6-98CC-4AE2-AE28-4C7655B4ACD7@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <2d0901cb2c5c$576b6320$0301a8c0@randall>

> I am thinking about adding a front anti sway bar to my TR3A. Even my  
> wife thinks its a good idea, "Maybe I won't need to hang on so tight  
> around corners."
> 
> I would appreciate any advice, where to buy, how difficult, even, is  
> it worth it. Thanks.

I bought mine through JC Whitney many years ago ... they might still have
them listed.  However, the bar was drop-shipped directly to me from ADDCO,
so no JCW content.

I don't recall any drama installing the front bar; except ISTR there were
some bolts missing from the kit (which I sourced at the local hardware
store).  The installation looks a bit funny, because the brackets wind up in
the corner, at an angle to the bar,  but it seems to work out OK.  When you
drill the frame extensions, be sure to get the holes close enough to the
edge to leave room for a nut inside the extension.

Definitely a worthwhile modification, IMO.  Of course it's no substitute for
replacing worn or defective components.  I haven't moved the bar from the
wrecked 3A to the project TR3 yet, and it still handles pretty nice with the
rebuilt suspension and wide, sticky tires (on TR6 wheels).

Randall

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Jul 25 18:50:18 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 17:50:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Anti Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <DFEAF0B6-98CC-4AE2-AE28-4C7655B4ACD7@ties2.net>
References: <DFEAF0B6-98CC-4AE2-AE28-4C7655B4ACD7@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <4C4CDBCA.4020709@gmail.com>

On 7/25/10 1:59 PM, Joe DeMuth wrote:
> I am thinking about adding a front anti sway bar to my TR3A. Even my 
> wife thinks its a good idea, "Maybe I won't need to hang on so tight 
> around corners."
>
> I would appreciate any advice, where to buy, how difficult, even, is 
> it worth it. Thanks.

Is it worth it??  The TR3 corners like a mid sixties Cadillac Fleetwood 
with worn out suspension without them.  The front anti sway bars  
flatten out that boat like sway.  Of course I did uprated front springs 
& shocks at the same time so it may not all be the anti sway bar.

Who ya gonna call?  Why Ted at TSI imported automotive of course.

Once you discover flat cornering your wife will have to hold on tighter ;)

Teriann

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 25 18:56:50 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 17:56:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft oil seal?
In-Reply-To: <591565.90938.qm@web120012.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <62de1.868068f.3979db27@aol.com>
	<591565.90938.qm@web120012.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2d0e01cb2c5d$6ecc3b10$0301a8c0@randall>

> the front oil seal is on the timing cover and runs against the front
> pulley.
> moss # 520-000
> never had problems with this type of oil seal, 

This may be too long after the fact to be useful, but JIC : The only time
I've seen problems with this seal is when there is a groove worn into the
front pulley hub.  There is a thing called a "Speedi-Sleeve" available (got
mine through NAPA, but I think Moss sells them too) that restores the
surface.  If some light polishing with crocus cloth (or 300 grit abrasive
cloth) doesn't remove all the visible marks on the sealing surface, you
might consider installing a Speedi-Sleeve.  (About $35, but that was a few
years ago, they may be more by now.)

Randall

From popnglo at gmail.com  Mon Jul 26 09:31:39 2010
From: popnglo at gmail.com (Ed Poplawski)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 11:31:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Water Pump Pulley failure
Message-ID: <AANLkTimF-6zAPrbBpNCei0U8TjbjjfiWWAaqmYN=d_aK@mail.gmail.com>

There are four pictures that I posted on photobucket. The Water Pump Pulley
has failed, separating into two parts, with the inner part of the pulley
attached to the spindle. Looks like I can either get the pump and pulley as
a unit or the pulley or separte from TRF. BFE has the six vane pump, which
is a good upgrade it would seem. Anyone have any experiance with eirther.

Anyone see this failure before? The water pump still turns freely so the
failure would seem to be metel fatigue from 50+ years of spinning. The
difficult part is the remaining half of the pulley on the spindle is such
that a 3 prong puller can't grab anything flat due to the taper of the
inside of the pulley. There is a woodruff key in there holding it good.

http://s724.photobucket.com/albums/ww250/EdPop/TR3A%20Water%20pump%20pulley/?
action=view&current=pump-pulley4.jpg#!oZZ1QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs724.photob
ucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww250%2FEdPop%2FTR3A%2520Water%2520pump%2520pulley%2F%3F
action%3Dview%26current%3Dpump-pulley4.jpg%26

Any advice appreciated, Thanks

Ed (Hudson Valley NY)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 26 10:21:26 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 09:21:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Water Pump Pulley failure
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimF-6zAPrbBpNCei0U8TjbjjfiWWAaqmYN=d_aK@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimF-6zAPrbBpNCei0U8TjbjjfiWWAaqmYN=d_aK@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2e2f01cb2cde$98e27190$0301a8c0@randall>

> There are four pictures that I posted on photobucket.

This link might work better for some:
http://tinyurl.com/37uv4y6

> Looks like I can either get the pump 
> and pulley as
> a unit or the pulley or separte from TRF.

Unless originality is important, I would opt for the "one piece" setup.
I've seen too many failures at that joint; and the "one piece" replacement I
got from Moss has gone well over 100,000 miles with no drama.  But don't
forget that there is a stud required for the conversion (the original setup
had a bolt that was trapped in the pump by the pulley), and you have to
tighten the nuts in stages.  (With the pump fully in place, there isn't room
between the stud & pulley to install the nut.)

> The water pump still turns 
> freely so the
> failure would seem to be metel fatigue from 50+ years of spinning.

The pulley should not have been flexing, so my guess is that the water pump
shaft does not run true or the pulley was cocked during installation.  In
fact, the shaft looks bent to me in your photo #2 (although that might be an
illusion).

> The
> difficult part is the remaining half of the pulley on the 
> spindle is such
> that a 3 prong puller can't grab anything flat due to the taper of the
> inside of the pulley. There is a woodruff key in there 
> holding it good.

Definitely after a failure like that, I wouldn't even bother with the old
pump!  But if you really want to get it apart, I'd suggest an abrasive
cutoff blade in a Dremel or die grinder, and cut into the keyway.  Or you
might be able to get in behind the mangled pulley with a bearing separator.
http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul 26 10:28:04 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 12:28:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding
References: <AANLkTi=FY5TFGmaJGNT1WdO7Z=YELe_7siAgR9D323-v@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E8D8B60BEF84465878C43CC94F58310@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Bill,
I've been working on my brakes for about 7 years.  A long time ago I found 
that air was seeping in around and thru the bleed screw threads.  Careful 
use of teflon tape seems to solve this. Not really sure if this will affect 
speed bleeders, but, I would worry about opening them too much.
Paul


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "bill bickerton" <bbick59 at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 6:06 PM
Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding


> Hi list, I'm hoping someone out there can help me out with my brake 
> bleeding
> issue however, I'm sure you are all out enjoying your TR's while i sit it
> the garage watching air bubbles all day.
>
> What I'm trying to accomplish is to transition from DOT 3 to DOT 5, i have
> speed bleeders and I've tried to bleed the conventional way with no luck 
> so
> i am now using an EZ bleeder system that uses the vacuum created by the 
> air
> compressor in order to draw new fluids down through the system, still no
> luck just bubbles.
>
> Here is some history of what I've done to the car that brought me to this
> point.
> 1. rebuilt calipers
> 2. new caliper pistons
> 3. new stainless steel brake hoses
> 4. rebuilt master cylinder
> 5. blew out brake lines with air after removing the DOT 3
> 6. ran denatured alcohol through the lines prior to filling the MC with 
> DOT5
>
>
> I've checked all the lines for leaks (visually) and there doesn't appear 
> to
> be any, plus i would see liquid spots on the floor.
> One thing i did that might be important to this story (hoping it's not) i
> had to spit one of my calipers in order to remove a fused piston however, 
> i
> replaced the small O ring between the caliper and used the correct 
> torque(s)
> when putting them back together. At this point i do not see any leaking of
> fluid between the two half.
>
> I've been working on bleeding my brakes for 3 days now and the air bubbles
> just keep coming and the pedal is mushy. I'm hoping that someone out there
> may have experienced the same thing and has some tips on how you overcame
> the issue.
>
> Thanks all,
> Bill
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul at bellsouth.net

From michael.stenhouse at c2i.net  Mon Jul 26 11:59:35 2010
From: michael.stenhouse at c2i.net (STEN)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 19:59:35 +0200
Subject: [TR] triumph tr250-tr6 electrical maintenance handbook
Message-ID: <00e801cb2cec$4fc20350$ef4609f0$@c2i.net>

Hallo Folks,

Is there anybody out there that can help me obtain a copy of the "Triumph
tr250-tr6 electrical maintenance handbook" by Dan Masters?

Appreciate any help.

Chees,

Michael.

In Norway.

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Jul 26 13:59:50 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 15:59:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Update on TriumphBob
Message-ID: <1b49af.3639cd16.397f4331@aol.com>

Hi Everyone,
Below is a note from Ava Bob's wife.  Bob is going thru the final  phase of 
his treatment for leukemia at the Cleveland Clinic.  Bob tolerated  the 
first phase rather well and even had a period of time in June and early July  
that he could get back to a somewhat normal pace considering the  
circumstances. He even grew a little head of hair or fuss one might  call it. He and 
Ava were able to attend the TRA National Meeting with  Beverly and I and just 
like old times we had a blast.  We were able to take  the 62 TR4 for Laps 
around Mid-Ohio Race Track and I let Bob drive since he had  not been behind 
the wheel of a Triumph for some time.  This was a decision  I soon came to 
regret because it was all I could do to hang on and not fly out  of the car.  
I dang new tore the "OH Crap Bar" out of the dash.   Bob has No Fear and 
likes to go fast.  Early on we were calling for a black  flag to the TR3 in 
front of us for blocking but since there was a no  passing rule in effect we 
just had to hang back a bit then hurry up to catch  up.  Great fun.
 
Bob really enjoyed your e-mails the during the first phase so  let's keep 
his spirits up as best we can.  He has a good chance to survive  all of this. 
His email is _TriumphBob at aol.com_ (mailto:TriumphBob at aol.com)   I will post 
 an address for cards as soon has I get one.
 
Best Regards,
Darrell
 
Bob entered the clinic on Wednesday, July 21st and is  currently going 
through his last (third) day of Chemo.  He has done very  well through the first 
2 days, but I'm sure he will appreciate his 'day off'  tomorrow (Sunday) as 
the side effects are compounded.  On Monday, Tues, Wed  & Thursday Bob  
will get two rounds each day (6 a.m. & 10 a.m.) of  full body irradiation.  As 
long as he is up to it and steady on his feet I  will be able to walk him 
down for those 30 minutes treatments so he'll get to be  off this 
floor.....something that will not happen again until his eventual  release (some 60 days 
down the road.....or less - we pray).  The use of a  laptop computer has 
made it much easier to communicate while we are in here (I'm  living at the 
hospital while mom is still here) so please send your Emails, pics  and the 
like to me to share with Bob as you can.

From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca  Mon Jul 26 16:13:47 2010
From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (=?iso-8859-1?Q?TR6Qu=E9bec?=)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 18:13:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] triumph tr250-tr6 electrical maintenance handbook
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1280167201.11370.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1280167201.11370.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <78E581697EC54BD2839EF36690862FE5@robertlaptop>

Hi Michael,

You can go on the +6-Pack; TR6 / TR250 club site and go to the ;shop; 
section at :

http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack//index.php?option=com_oscommerce&osMod=index&Itemid=31&catID=1

You can buy on line with +PayPal;

Good luck!

Robert
TR6Quebec

> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 19:59:35 +0200
> From: "STEN" <michael.stenhouse at c2i.net>
> Subject: [TR] triumph tr250-tr6 electrical maintenance handbook
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <00e801cb2cec$4fc20350$ef4609f0$@c2i.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hallo Folks,
>
> Is there anybody out there that can help me obtain a copy of the "Triumph
> tr250-tr6 electrical maintenance handbook" by Dan Masters?
>
> Appreciate any help.
>
> Chees,
>
> Michael.
>
> In Norway.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 314
> ****************************************

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Jul 26 16:15:19 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 18:15:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] triumph tr250-tr6 electrical maintenance handbook
In-Reply-To: <00e801cb2cec$4fc20350$ef4609f0$@c2i.net>
References: <00e801cb2cec$4fc20350$ef4609f0$@c2i.net>
Message-ID: <8FA5294074F74A749DFF581C9BC345A1@BobPC>

One source is through www.6-Pack.org. It's sold in the online store.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "STEN" <michael.stenhouse at c2i.net>
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 1:59 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] triumph tr250-tr6 electrical maintenance handbook

> Hallo Folks,
>
> Is there anybody out there that can help me obtain a copy of the "Triumph
> tr250-tr6 electrical maintenance handbook" by Dan Masters?
>
> Appreciate any help.
>
> Chees,
>
> Michael.
>
> In Norway.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 26 16:33:36 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 15:33:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] triumph tr250-tr6 electrical maintenance handbook
In-Reply-To: <00e801cb2cec$4fc20350$ef4609f0$@c2i.net>
References: <00e801cb2cec$4fc20350$ef4609f0$@c2i.net>
Message-ID: <180901cb2d12$96fe4aa0$c4fadfe0$@rr.com>

> Is there anybody out there that can help me obtain a copy of the
> "Triumph
> tr250-tr6 electrical maintenance handbook" by Dan Masters?

I believe it is available through either Moss Motors (USA)
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=51952
or TRF
http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/161.php

They do very occasionally show up on eBay, but not often and usually not any
cheaper.

-- Randall 

From lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul 26 19:31:41 2010
From: lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net (LARRY C GRIFFIN)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 21:31:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Raleigh NC Classic Car Show 7/31/10
Message-ID: <ADE9D381F23F4591801BD0A4A07C5C70@HomePC>

I learned of this show through a friend that works with the realty company
that developed North Hills. The show is open to all makes of classic cars and
has no entry fee. I was specifically asked to share the news with all my
Triumph friends.  If anyone wants to attend, I'd love to get a contingent of
Triumphs together. No financial interest, etc..   Show information follows
below.
Thanks,
Larry



Come join us for the 1st Annual Bruegger's North Hills Classic Car Show taking
place on July 31st 2010 from 9:00 AM- 3:00 PM. The parking lot adjacent to
Bruegger's North Hills will be ground zero for some of the best Classic Cars
in the city. Admission is free and any Classic Car owner is welcome to show
off their ride at no charge (tell your Classic Car friends). Awards will be
given in several "Best of" categories and a DJ will be on site spinning
favorite songs from the 60's and 70's. Bring the family for a day of fun and
great cars. For more information call Bruegger's North Hills at (919)
781-5733. See you there.

http://www.brueggersnorthhills.com/
_________________

From jnjsk at comcast.net  Fri Jul 16 17:09:30 2010
From: jnjsk at comcast.net (J. Sudduth)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 16:09:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Friend with a TR10 Estate
Message-ID: <E2AB482932F14F06BCEB4A154DCAB730@JNJVISTA>

Hi All,

 

I received a call from someone in Montana who has rescued a TR10 and wants
to get info about restoring, history, commission numbers etc. Are there any
TR10 owners/experts on the list he could contact?

 

Thanks,

Jim

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Jul 27 00:36:59 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 23:36:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Friend with a TR10 Estate
In-Reply-To: <E2AB482932F14F06BCEB4A154DCAB730@JNJVISTA>
References: <E2AB482932F14F06BCEB4A154DCAB730@JNJVISTA>
Message-ID: <0535EAFC6CA3417A8A904F0375D21452@joepentiumnew>

That would be Andy Mace

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of J. Sudduth
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 4:10 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Friend with a TR10 Estate

Hi All,

 

I received a call from someone in Montana who has rescued a TR10 and wants
to get info about restoring, history, commission numbers etc. Are there any
TR10 owners/experts on the list he could contact?

 

Thanks,

Jim

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Jul 27 08:33:06 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 10:33:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Friend with a TR10 Estate
In-Reply-To: <0535EAFC6CA3417A8A904F0375D21452@joepentiumnew>
References: <E2AB482932F14F06BCEB4A154DCAB730@JNJVISTA>
	<0535EAFC6CA3417A8A904F0375D21452@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <8CCFBAFC2E91FF4-13F8-B1FF@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com>

 Indeed (thanks, Joe)! Feel free to pass my contact info along!



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
To: 'J. Sudduth' <jnjsk at comcast.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jul 27, 2010 2:36 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Friend with a TR10 Estate


That would be Andy Mace



-----Original Message-----

From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net

[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of J. Sudduth



I received a call from someone in Montana who has rescued a TR10 and wants to
get info about
restoring, history, commission numbers etc. Are there any TR10 owners/experts
on the list he could
contact?

From tbe749 at aol.com  Tue Jul 27 09:25:02 2010
From: tbe749 at aol.com (tbe749 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 11:25:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Friend with a TR10 Estate
In-Reply-To: <E2AB482932F14F06BCEB4A154DCAB730@JNJVISTA>
References: <E2AB482932F14F06BCEB4A154DCAB730@JNJVISTA>
Message-ID: <8CCFBB70232E745-3FA0-A842@Webmail-d111.sysops.aol.com>

We have a 1959 so I am an owner but not an expert. Been completely apart
(almost)  and going back together with my usual restoration speed. Molasses
comes to mind. Please feel free to tell him to ask questions. I will do my
best to answer. Andy's web-site is the best source for commission numbers and
is the only expert I know.



Tom Beaver



-----Original Message-----
From: J. Sudduth <jnjsk at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Jul 16, 2010 7:09 pm
Subject: [TR] Friend with a TR10 Estate


Hi All,

I received a call from someone in Montana who has rescued a TR10 and wants
o get info about restoring, history, commission numbers etc. Are there any
R10 owners/experts on the list he could contact?

Thanks,
Jim
_______________________________________________
riumphs at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $11.47
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tbe749 at aol.com

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Jul 27 10:46:16 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 12:46:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF S.P.
Message-ID: <BAY123-W103DACE2F6D40B272B53E6BAA70@phx.gbl>

Anybody else heading to Armagh this weekend? Sounds like attendence is down
again slightly this year. What a shame as this event is so much fun.  Team
Sukey will be there in force with the Spitfire, GT6 and TR8.  Hopefully all
will still be running at the end of the weekend:).  See you there.



Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Jul 27 11:48:43 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 11:48:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas  generator
In-Reply-To: <201007251015.41292.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>
	<201007251015.41292.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <5BAAEA7C161B4A91B6645FA40DCF5F59@bboffice>

OK, I did and it did so I will get it installed and see how it goes!  
Thanks,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob [mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net] 
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 8:16 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: wbeech at flash.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas generator

On Saturday, July 24, 2010 04:34:31 pm wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Good weekend List,
> 
> I found this Moss video to show how to test a generator but now I am a 
> bit more confused than before I watched it.  It shows a voltmeter with 
> the two leads going off camera and attached to???, I think a battery?  
> Also, it shows two leads attached to the generator and going to ???, ( 
> as this appears to be a bench test are they trying to simulate the 
> generator being in a vehicle?).
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR2_y0EIGRU
> 
> 
> My thinking is that I should be able to place the generator on the 
> bench and spin it at around 3,000RPM and look for a reading in excess 
> of 12 volts.  Is this correct?
> 
> Is there a simple proved why to test a generator before re-installing it?
> 
> As always, your thoughts and explanations are welcome and appreciated/
> 
> All the best,
> Bill
Bill,

If I remember correctly, the way I test a generator is to attach a + lead to
ground on the generator from the battery and - to both the small and large
spade connectors and if the generator spins like a motor it is good to go. I
am sure there are other ways to check out each circuit with a meter. I
believe there is a diagnostic on the web somewhere to check the entire
charging circuit.

Bob

From markvaden at gmail.com  Tue Jul 27 12:11:34 2010
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 11:11:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] auto body shop for TR in San Diego
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=s__G9aoszyRg5tauwDkN1uWp6Pi-bR5Em8j3E@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Everyone,

Someone ran into my TR in the parking lot at work - and left a fake note
since there were witnesses.

I need to get it fixed, and I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation
for a body shop to work on a TR4 in San Diego.

Thanks,
Mark

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Jul 27 12:24:59 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 18:24:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] TRF S.P.
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W103DACE2F6D40B272B53E6BAA70@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W103DACE2F6D40B272B53E6BAA70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C2DB41@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Marty, there will be a small contingent from New England Triumphs at the TRF
event. We will be heading out at the crack of dawn tomorrow and should arrive
late afternoon on Thursday.  Look for cars with one of these on the front
bumper, especially my red TR6 with Mass license plate RED TR6..

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20TRF%202010/NETTRFPlaqu
e.jpg

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 12:46 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] TRF S.P.

Anybody else heading to Armagh this weekend? Sounds like attendence is down
again slightly this year. What a shame as this event is so much fun.  Team
Sukey will be there in force with the Spitfire, GT6 and TR8.  Hopefully all
will still be running at the end of the weekend:).  See you there.



Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan.foster at hp.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Jul 27 12:23:28 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 13:23:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] part needed
In-Reply-To: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>
References: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>
Message-ID: <600DE02D432D4133A751035A083C9FC1@ranteer.local>

hi.  I posted a week or so ago I needed a part; no luck so far.

I'd really appreciate it if anyone who knows a good used parts supplier, and 
I hope this isn't asking too much, to forward me their name/phone so my 
search could continue.

thanks so much. 

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Tue Jul 27 14:01:34 2010
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 16:01:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Question
In-Reply-To: <1b49af.3639cd16.397f4331@aol.com>
References: <1b49af.3639cd16.397f4331@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001801cb2dc6$83dc2b90$8b9482b0$@net>

Any of you know of a TR6, that was driving along on the 
south bound Crestwood Blvd in Frederick, MD 
around 7AM Tuesday morning.

Craig

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul 27 14:02:00 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 16:02:00 EDT
Subject: [TR] part needed
Message-ID: <f4b80.cea98bd.39809538@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/27/2010 1:38:40 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dave at ranteer.com writes: 
> I'd really appreciate it if anyone who knows a good used parts supplier, 
> and 
> I hope this isn't asking too much, to forward me their name/phone so my 
> search could continue.
> 

Triumph Rescue  http://www.triumphrescue.com/
TSI Imported  http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/

And there are many others.

Dave

From djsforza at gmail.com  Tue Jul 27 14:16:03 2010
From: djsforza at gmail.com (Don Sforza)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 16:16:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] part needed
In-Reply-To: <600DE02D432D4133A751035A083C9FC1@ranteer.local>
References: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>
	<600DE02D432D4133A751035A083C9FC1@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <AANLkTindesMDa55z8kv5wx3-xA+Sdrb+Jibz-Whe0SnS@mail.gmail.com>

Try Ted Schumacker at TS Imported, Pandora Ohio. He has lots ofused parts...
usually by going out into  his wrecking yard and pulling it off.

On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 2:23 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> hi.  I posted a week or so ago I needed a part; no luck so far.
>
> I'd really appreciate it if anyone who knows a good used parts supplier,
> and I hope this isn't asking too much, to forward me their name/phone so my
> search could continue.
>
> thanks so much.
>  _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/djsforza at gmail.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 27 14:15:19 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 13:15:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] auto body shop for TR in San Diego
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=s__G9aoszyRg5tauwDkN1uWp6Pi-bR5Em8j3E@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTi=s__G9aoszyRg5tauwDkN1uWp6Pi-bR5Em8j3E@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <512568.81895.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Mark
sorry to hear about the nasty.
id recommend Randy at heratige
motorsports, 1437 Pioneer Way, El Cajon, 
California 92020, (619) 447-0025
he
treated me wonderfully with mechanical problems. his body work is kinda
secondary to the mechanical, but from what i have seen its really good.
Frank
 

________________________________
From: Mark Vaden <markvaden at gmail.com>
To:
TR List <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, July 27, 2010 11:11:34 AM
Subject: [TR] auto body shop for TR in San Diego

Hi Everyone,

Someone ran
into my TR in the parking lot at work - and left a fake note
since there were
witnesses.

I need to get it fixed, and I was wondering if anyone had a
recommendation
for a body shop to work on a TR4 in San Diego.

Thanks,
Mark
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From rcrabbe at sympatico.ca  Tue Jul 27 14:55:45 2010
From: rcrabbe at sympatico.ca (Richard Crabbe)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 16:55:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Shock Replacement
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP35D7EE22550A5CAC4047DBD6A70@phx.gbl>

Hi Group

I had replaced my stock rear shocks with a bracket ( bought off e-bay) and
it came with #'s from different type of shocks.

I chose to go with the Monroe however once I got the car on the road the
problems started.

Come to find out that the shock is already at compression stage when at
rest. When you add my wife and myself  about 400 #'s most of me ( my wife
Said I had to say that) it is not a pleasant ride.

Can Anyone give me some references for the different type of shocks I should
be using and the #'s so I can order them.

Monroe, Koni  etc.

The bracket is the same type as sold by TRF as an aftermarket for the stock
Armstrong rear shocks.

 

76TR6 

Crabby.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Jul 27 15:36:29 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 14:36:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] part needed
In-Reply-To: <600DE02D432D4133A751035A083C9FC1@ranteer.local>
References: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>
	<600DE02D432D4133A751035A083C9FC1@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <AANLkTindzbw8kh6VGYrQcn6aoE-beoPvR5b0RAveRsMR@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/27/10, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> hi.  I posted a week or so ago I needed a part; no luck so far.
>
> I'd really appreciate it if anyone who knows a good used parts supplier, and
> I hope this isn't asking too much, to forward me their name/phone so my
> search could continue.

Here's a link to the Monster List, prolly a few hundred sources there:

http://www.dimebank.com/monster/vendors.html

Might be helpful if you mentioned what part you need or at least what
sort of car this is for (perhaps you stated this last week but I
didn't make a note of it).

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Jul 27 15:45:57 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 14:45:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] part needed
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTindzbw8kh6VGYrQcn6aoE-beoPvR5b0RAveRsMR@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>
	<600DE02D432D4133A751035A083C9FC1@ranteer.local>
	<AANLkTindzbw8kh6VGYrQcn6aoE-beoPvR5b0RAveRsMR@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=35_arGu=8Q0FAzBPOKnxkDK_Ei-Wj-L0igfBb@mail.gmail.com>

Aha, I sifted thru the gmail trash and found the prior message.

Given the possible rarity of that part and that is is made of material
that does not always age well... you might ask if, originality aside,
you even need to have it.

Later cars did not have one though I do not know whether it was
replaced with something made of metal or simply deleted (and the
lift-the-dots changed).

Geo

On 7/27/10, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
> On 7/27/10, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>> hi.  I posted a week or so ago I needed a part; no luck so far.
>>
>> I'd really appreciate it if anyone who knows a good used parts supplier,
>> and
>> I hope this isn't asking too much, to forward me their name/phone so my
>> search could continue.
>
> Here's a link to the Monster List, prolly a few hundred sources there:
>
> http://www.dimebank.com/monster/vendors.html
>
> Might be helpful if you mentioned what part you need or at least what
> sort of car this is for (perhaps you stated this last week but I
> didn't make a note of it).

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 27 16:48:45 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 15:48:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] part needed
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=35_arGu=8Q0FAzBPOKnxkDK_Ei-Wj-L0igfBb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice>
	<600DE02D432D4133A751035A083C9FC1@ranteer.local>
	<AANLkTindzbw8kh6VGYrQcn6aoE-beoPvR5b0RAveRsMR@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTi=35_arGu=8Q0FAzBPOKnxkDK_Ei-Wj-L0igfBb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01ce01cb2ddd$df2e58d0$9d8b0a70$@rr.com>

> Aha, I sifted thru the gmail trash and found the prior message.

Original message was :
>  the part I find myself needing to buy is for a TR2/3 (not 3a), the wooden
piece that spans the scuttle as a support piece, and has a couple of bolts
built in.
> #42. dash rail,
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29156  on
this drawing.

Somewhat confusing, in that #42 on that diagram is the "draft seal" (aka
furflex); and the pictured "dash rail" is the aluminum capping piece that
trims the edge of the scuttle.

The wooden "scuttle member" is required for the earlier bodies, which were
none too strong in that area anyway.  The body was retooled at some point to
replace it by rolling and joining the edges of the steel panels.

Worth noting, perhaps, that there were actually three different versions of
the wood piece.  My SPC shows P/N 701004 up to TS6157, then 701540 (change
point not given), then 802879.

Three other names that you might look for are Albert Roth, Wayne Bier, and
John Nichols.  I don't have their current contact info handy, but they all
used to part out TRs and might possibly have what you need still stashed in
the rafters somewhere.

FWIW there are also several businesses around the country that specialize in
reproducing wooden body members.  Some of them are listed here:
http://www.oldwoodies.com/resource-woodies-pros.htm

-- Randall

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Tue Jul 27 17:35:44 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 19:35:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels
Message-ID: <B49E4E6016D442769C3EE919ADABE486@TRGUY>

Any viewpoints on powdercoating stock steel wheels?  Good or bad idea?
Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6
Maitland, FL

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Jul 27 17:53:12 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 16:53:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels
In-Reply-To: <B49E4E6016D442769C3EE919ADABE486@TRGUY>
References: <B49E4E6016D442769C3EE919ADABE486@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <E9B192436A524B9BB144E4881FF3953C@joepentiumnew>

Probably a good idea.  Keeps the color intact, retards rust, looks good.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 4:36 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels

Any viewpoints on powdercoating stock steel wheels?  Good or bad idea?
Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6
Maitland, FL

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue Jul 27 18:16:21 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 20:16:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels
In-Reply-To: <B49E4E6016D442769C3EE919ADABE486@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9B4D@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Did that, looks great, no rust coming at all. If paying a service, be very
certain they do all sides, not just the outsides. Sandblasted unpainted
insides turn nasty brown after a year or two and you have to do a lot of
handwork to fix it up. Ask me how I know...

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: July 27, 2010 7:36 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels

Any viewpoints on powdercoating stock steel wheels?  Good or bad idea?
Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6
Maitland, FL

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Tue Jul 27 19:13:58 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 18:13:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9B4D@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9B4D@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <503141.11005.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I had my TR4A wheels powered.  The silver color had a hint of blue.  The
wheels 
look nice, but the blue hue is apparent.  Anyone else have this
result?  I heard 
that Corvette silver is the closest one can get to original.
Pat




________________________________
From: Mark Hooper
<mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To: James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com>; list Triumph
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, July 27, 2010 5:16:21 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels

Did that, looks great, no rust coming at all.
If paying a service, be very
certain they do all sides, not just the outsides.
Sandblasted unpainted
insides turn nasty brown after a year or two and you
have to do a lot of
handwork to fix it up. Ask me how I know...

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent:
July 27, 2010 7:36 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels
Any viewpoints on powdercoating stock steel wheels?  Good or bad idea?
Thanks
in advance,
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6
Maitland, FL
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Tue Jul 27 20:57:19 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 19:57:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] auto body shop for TR in San Diego
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=s__G9aoszyRg5tauwDkN1uWp6Pi-bR5Em8j3E@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTi=s__G9aoszyRg5tauwDkN1uWp6Pi-bR5Em8j3E@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004e01cb2e00$98d00b40$ca7021c0$@rr.com>

Hi Mark,
John Bettencourt on Broadway in the downtown area did my 4A. His prices were
fair and the guys doing the blocking out did a mirror smooth job. I haven't
talked to him in a 6+ years, and he was getting ready to retire, so no
guarantees that he's still in business. He drives a Jag V12 coupe.

My son had a small fender bender recently in my car, but nothing that would
stop me from driving it every day. Anyway, if you find another body shop let
me know, especially if John's not in business any more.

I know Randy Zoeller helps you out with your race car, doesn't he have a
preference?

Johnnie
'67 TR4A
'71 1800E 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Vaden
> Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 11:12 AM
> To: TR List
> Subject: [TR] auto body shop for TR in San Diego
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Someone ran into my TR in the parking lot at work - and left a fake
> note
> since there were witnesses.
> 
> I need to get it fixed, and I was wondering if anyone had a
> recommendation
> for a body shop to work on a TR4 in San Diego.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdonnel1 at san.rr.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Jul 27 21:10:45 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 21:10:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] part needed
In-Reply-To: <9FFF069C2B074FF7B6A382982AC97956@ranteer.local>
References: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B176BE@mail.ex-centris.net><200812091937.36996.yellowtr@adelphia.net><493F33E8.7020700@dfn.com><E3CF92B35E0B437AB8CB5E9433401604@Bevan>
	<9FFF069C2B074FF7B6A382982AC97956@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <E718B88EB97F42588AE54F2163539236@bboffice>

Dave,
Item #42 at this link is a Draft Seal, did you mean #43 Dash
Rail(untrimmed)?  Also, this listing seems to indicate it is the same for
TR2-4a bu this is just what the Moss people are saying.

My TR3A has the wood dash rail, but it may be different than yours.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 12:12 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] part needed

hi, all.

well, the restoration from Hell, which was promoted to the restoration from
purgatory, is in danger of being demoted.

the body shop person insists that a certain part was returned to the owner
(me).

the owner (me), although I am admittedly old and forgetful, is pretty sure I
never got it from her.  I have also searched the usual and unusual nooks and
crannies to no avail.

regardless, the part I find myself needing to buy is for a TR2/3 (not 3a),
the wooden piece that spans the scuttle as a support piece, and has a couple
of bolts built in.

#42. dash rail,
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29156  on this
drawing.

can anyone help?

thanks so much!

dave northrup
dallas, tx
214-394-8296

www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Jul 27 21:10:45 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 21:10:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] part needed
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=35_arGu=8Q0FAzBPOKnxkDK_Ei-Wj-L0igfBb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4CA375DCE40C437081423E9CB42DCF2A@bboffice><600DE02D432D4133A751035A083C9FC1@ranteer.local><AANLkTindzbw8kh6VGYrQcn6aoE-beoPvR5b0RAveRsMR@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTi=35_arGu=8Q0FAzBPOKnxkDK_Ei-Wj-L0igfBb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CBDB5A7097844850B9C93B12EE2A5C7D@bboffice>

I know this is a long shot, but I have the facility to make one is someone
could provide a sample to be used as a pattern.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 3:46 PM
To: dave
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] part needed

Aha, I sifted thru the gmail trash and found the prior message.

Given the possible rarity of that part and that is is made of material that
does not always age well... you might ask if, originality aside, you even
need to have it.

Later cars did not have one though I do not know whether it was replaced
with something made of metal or simply deleted (and the lift-the-dots
changed).

Geo

On 7/27/10, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
> On 7/27/10, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>> hi.  I posted a week or so ago I needed a part; no luck so far.
>>
>> I'd really appreciate it if anyone who knows a good used parts 
>> supplier, and I hope this isn't asking too much, to forward me their 
>> name/phone so my search could continue.
>
> Here's a link to the Monster List, prolly a few hundred sources there:
>
> http://www.dimebank.com/monster/vendors.html
>
> Might be helpful if you mentioned what part you need or at least what 
> sort of car this is for (perhaps you stated this last week but I 
> didn't make a note of it).

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Tue Jul 27 21:18:15 2010
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 21:18:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] LED Tailite Supplier
Message-ID: <E1D4D4C5DE074D698CB49B7893F96880@bboffice>

I have been corresponding with a outfit called OpStar to supply LED bulbs in
standard bases such as 1156 & 1157 for our old LBCs.  The pricing is about
1/2 that of the LiteZupp web site but I was wondering if any one has had any
experience with them?
 
NFI as yet, but I am thinking of asking them for some sample units to see
how they are, and what type of re-seller program they might have if the
product is worthy.
 
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 27 22:15:09 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 21:15:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED Tailite Supplier
In-Reply-To: <E1D4D4C5DE074D698CB49B7893F96880@bboffice>
References: <E1D4D4C5DE074D698CB49B7893F96880@bboffice>
Message-ID: <318401cb2e0b$78023680$0301a8c0@randall>

> The 
> pricing is about
> 1/2 that of the LiteZupp web site but I was wondering if any 
> one has had any
> experience with them?

I have not; but an important question to ask is : Will they make them in the
custom angle necessary to have the "beam" pointed to the rear when the
socket is at an angle?

LEDs do not shine equally in all directions, so they need to be pointed in
the direction of interest.  But the taillight bulb holders in later TR3-3B
point towards the ground at a funny angle.  In order to be effective, the
individual LEDs have to be mounted at an angle to the base.

AFAIK LiteZupp is the only company that does this (which explains the price,
IMO).

Randall

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Tue Jul 27 23:07:01 2010
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 23:07:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] LED Tailite Supplier
In-Reply-To: <318401cb2e0b$78023680$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <E1D4D4C5DE074D698CB49B7893F96880@bboffice>
	<318401cb2e0b$78023680$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <6FC556D262EC4394BD72AB0D0C5C3779@bboffice>

Ah Ha, I never thought of that.  I will check, I guess I should go measure
the angle of the holder first.  I would suppose these might be OK for the
1156 single sockets in the front and rear?

Thanks for the input,
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 10:15 PM
To: bill_beecher at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] LED Tailite Supplier

 

> The
> pricing is about
> 1/2 that of the LiteZupp web site but I was wondering if any one has 
> had any experience with them?

I have not; but an important question to ask is : Will they make them in the
custom angle necessary to have the "beam" pointed to the rear when the
socket is at an angle?

LEDs do not shine equally in all directions, so they need to be pointed in
the direction of interest.  But the taillight bulb holders in later TR3-3B
point towards the ground at a funny angle.  In order to be effective, the
individual LEDs have to be mounted at an angle to the base.

AFAIK LiteZupp is the only company that does this (which explains the price,
IMO).

Randall

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed Jul 28 09:38:55 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 08:38:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Powder Coat Steel Wheels
References: <mailman.34286.1280276146.914.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001e01cb2e6a$fd14c900$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

Jim,
I am not sure it's worth it.
I cleaned up the wheels with a rotary wire brush.
After 2 coats of Eastwoods' detail silver they look great.
How much wheel can you see once cap and trim rings are installed anyway?
Regards,
Bob


 > 
> Message: 12
> Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 19:35:44 -0400
> From: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
> Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels
> To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <B49E4E6016D442769C3EE919ADABE486 at TRGUY>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Any viewpoints on powdercoating stock steel wheels?  Good or bad idea?
> Thanks in advance,
> Jim Henningsen
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6
> Maitland, FL
 




E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447)
Database version: 6.14880
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Jul 28 09:18:57 2010
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 10:18:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shock Replacement
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP35D7EE22550A5CAC4047DBD6A70@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP35D7EE22550A5CAC4047DBD6A70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <201007280818951.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

The stock ones, properly built and maintained would likely be the best for you.
         Peter C
==
At 03:55 PM 7/27/2010, Richard Crabbe wrote:
>Hi Group
>
>I had replaced my stock rear shocks with a bracket ( bought off e-bay) and
>it came with #'s from different type of shocks.
>
>I chose to go with the Monroe however once I got the car on the road the
>problems started.
>
>Come to find out that the shock is already at compression stage when at
>rest. When you add my wife and myself  about 400 #'s most of me ( my wife
>Said I had to say that) it is not a pleasant ride.
>
>Can Anyone give me some references for the different type of shocks I should
>be using and the #'s so I can order them.
>
>Monroe, Koni  etc.
>
>The bracket is the same type as sold by TRF as an aftermarket for the stock
>Armstrong rear shocks.
>
>
>
>76TR6
>
>Crabby.

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 12:24:01 2010
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 14:24:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Powder Coat on Original Disk Wheels
Message-ID: <AANLkTikCMwMry19Et=ccEseKYr1v6+=Up5f1_X8zMoTG@mail.gmail.com>

I have a set of four TR3 wheels that were powder coated before I got them --
beautiful job, but definitely not the right color.  More blue-gray, as noted
by Pat, and also less "metallic" looking than my originals.  I can't say I'm
happy with the shade, although the finish and protection of the metal are
super.

Don
TR3B TSF202L

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Wed Jul 28 16:41:53 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 18:41:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels
In-Reply-To: <503141.11005.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9B4D@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<503141.11005.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F2AD43BF1F304D2DA7EDEEC0685AAD3F@TRGUY>

Thanks Pat and everyone else for their responses.
jim henningsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: P Caffrey
  To: Mark Hooper ; James Henningsen ; list Triumph
  Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 9:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels


  I had my TR4A wheels powered.  The silver color had a hint of blue.  The
wheels look nice, but the blue hue is apparent.  Anyone else have this result?
I heard that Corvette silver is the closest one can get to original.
  Pat




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  From: Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
  To: James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com>; list Triumph
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Tue, July 27, 2010 5:16:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels

  Did that, looks great, no rust coming at all. If paying a service, be very
  certain they do all sides, not just the outsides. Sandblasted unpainted
  insides turn nasty brown after a year or two and you have to do a lot of
  handwork to fix it up. Ask me how I know...

  Mark Hooper
  1972 TR6

  -----Original Message-----
  From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
  On Behalf Of James Henningsen
  Sent: July 27, 2010 7:36 PM
  To: list Triumph
  Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels

  Any viewpoints on powdercoating stock steel wheels?  Good or bad idea?
  Thanks in advance,
  Jim Henningsen
  62 TR4 CT5212LO
  75 TR6
  Maitland, FL

  _______________________________________________
  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $11.47
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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  Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Wed Jul 28 17:46:23 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:46:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels
In-Reply-To: <B49E4E6016D442769C3EE919ADABE486@TRGUY>
References: <B49E4E6016D442769C3EE919ADABE486@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <FD6A87CECED645168912A1960442E1A5@AlexPC>

Have both painted and powder coated stock wheels for my TR6.
IMHO.......Powder coat hands down!

Alex Manzo
Weeki Wachee Florida
72 TR6
59 TR3A 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 7:35 PM
Subject: [TR] Poweder Coat Steel Wheels


> Any viewpoints on powdercoating stock steel wheels?  Good or bad idea?
> Thanks in advance,
> Jim Henningsen
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6
> Maitland, FL

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Wed Jul 28 18:04:07 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 20:04:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Bob Palmer's address
Message-ID: <6b167.711d1223.39821f77@aol.com>

If you would like to send cards, the address is  (once again):  

The Cleveland Clinic
Attn: Bob Palmer   G110-5        or   Attn: Betty  Klecka  H80-29
9500 Euclid Ave.
Cleveland, OH  44195

From tr250driver at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 18:44:55 2010
From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 20:44:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Update on TriumphBob
Message-ID: <AANLkTin36P4AQASmymHVicySX3bE3Xm=dO6yq8n6Eskj@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Everyone,
Below is a note from Ava Bob's wife.  Bob is going thru the final  phase of
his treatment for leukemia at the Cleveland Clinic.  Bob tolerated  the
first phase rather well and even had a period of time in June and early July
that he could get back to a somewhat normal pace considering the
circumstances. He even grew a little head of hair or fuss one might  call
it. He and
Ava were able to attend the TRA National Meeting with  Beverly and I and
just
like old times we had a blast.  We were able to take  the 62 TR4 for Laps
around Mid-Ohio Race Track and I let Bob drive since he had  not been behind
the wheel of a Triumph for some time.  This was a decision  I soon came to
regret because it was all I could do to hang on and not fly out  of the car.
I dang new tore the "OH Crap Bar" out of the dash.   Bob has No Fear and
likes to go fast.  Early on we were calling for a black  flag to the TR3 in
front of us for blocking but since there was a no  passing rule in effect we
just had to hang back a bit then hurry up to catch  up.  Great fun.

Bob really enjoyed your e-mails the during the first phase so  let's keep
his spirits up as best we can.  He has a good chance to survive  all of
this.
His email is _TriumphBob at aol.com_
(mailto:TriumphBob at aol.com<TriumphBob at aol.com>)
I will post
 an address for cards as soon has I get one.

Best Regards,
Darrell
Bob entered the clinic on Wednesday, July 21st and is  currently going
through his last (third) day of Chemo.  He has done very  well through the
first
2 days, but I'm sure he will appreciate his 'day off'  tomorrow (Sunday) as
the side effects are compounded.  On Monday, Tues, Wed  & Thursday Bob
will get two rounds each day (6 a.m. & 10 a.m.) of  full body irradiation.
As
long as he is up to it and steady on his feet I  will be able to walk him
down for those 30 minutes treatments so he'll get to be  off this
floor.....something that will not happen again until his eventual  release
(some 60 days
down the road.....or less - we pray).  The use of a  laptop computer has
made it much easier to communicate while we are in here (I'm  living at the
hospital while mom is still here) so please send your Emails, pics  and the
like to me to share with Bob as you can.


If you would like to send cards, the address is  (once again):
The Cleveland Clinic
Attn: Bob Palmer   G110-5        or   Attn: Betty  Klecka  H80-29
9500 Euclid Ave.
Cleveland, OH  44195
______________________________________________________________________________________________

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Wed Jul 28 19:13:03 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 18:13:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Powder Coat on Original Disk Wheels
Message-ID: <682369.94920.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I completely agree with Don's description of the appearance of powder coated
wheels and also the protection factor....I had thought (not in a serious way)
about chroming the wheels or purchasing chrome wheels, but it would have been
too bright, plus just not the correct appearance for the car....Powder coated
wheels take the car in the opposite direction from chrome as far as appearance
goes: the wheels are too muted (not metallic enough) and with a somewhat dull
blue/grey color as Don described....The Link below shows my car with powder
coated wheels.  The pics are, as expected, inferior to actually seeing the
wheels, but thought I'd send anyway.
http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/wheels/
Pat
________________________________
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
To:
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, July 28, 2010 11:24:01 AM
Subject: [TR]
Powder Coat on Original Disk Wheels

I have a set of four TR3 wheels that were
powder coated before I got them --
beautiful job, but definitely not the right
color.  More blue-gray, as noted
by Pat, and also less "metallic" looking than
my originals.  I can't say I'm
happy with the shade, although the finish and
protection of the metal are
super.

Don
TR3B TSF202L
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 28 19:49:26 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 18:49:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <797640.50412.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Bill
i hope the only fires your working on are triumph deadlines and smoors.
seriously, my thoughts and prayers are about you tonight
Frank

From robertko at charter.net  Wed Jul 28 20:35:52 2010
From: robertko at charter.net (robertko at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 22:35:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Powder Coat on Original Disk Wheels
In-Reply-To: <682369.94920.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100728223552.8I79H.6427418.root@mp08>

I used the Cast Aluminum powder from Eastwood.  It gives the same warm silver appearance of the original wheels.  The other silvers are too bright or have the mentioned color shades.

Robert Kohout
72 & 74 TR6


---- P Caffrey <pcaffrey at ymail.com> wrote: 
I completely agree with Don's description of the appearance of powder coated
wheels and also the protection factor....I had thought (not in a serious way)
about chroming the wheels or purchasing chrome wheels, but it would have been
too bright, plus just not the correct appearance for the car....Powder coated
wheels take the car in the opposite direction from chrome as far as appearance
goes: the wheels are too muted (not metallic enough) and with a somewhat dull
blue/grey color as Don described....The Link below shows my car with powder
coated wheels.  The pics are, as expected, inferior to actually seeing the
wheels, but thought I'd send anyway.
http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/wheels/
Pat
________________________________
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
To:
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, July 28, 2010 11:24:01 AM
Subject: [TR]
Powder Coat on Original Disk Wheels

I have a set of four TR3 wheels that were
powder coated before I got them --
beautiful job, but definitely not the right
color.  More blue-gray, as noted
by Pat, and also less "metallic" looking than
my originals.  I can't say I'm
happy with the shade, although the finish and
protection of the metal are
super.

Don
TR3B TSF202L
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Jul 28 20:45:48 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:45:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 in News Show?
Message-ID: <871802.9312.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

    I saw a trailer for an upcoming TV show called something like "Campus
Crush". I saw it on ABC while watching AFV. It looked like a high schooler in
a TR3. I only saw a windscreen and a back end view briefly. Has anyone else
seen this?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From don at napanet.net  Wed Jul 28 21:48:26 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 20:48:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive question
Message-ID: <20100729044222.AA98A24BA5F@mail.napanet.net>

Hello TR folks,

I have posted a few times now.  I am new to the classic TRs, have 
only had a couple of TR8s in the Triumph range.  And a lot of MGs and 
a few Sprites and Morris Minors.  So I am dumb on TR4As, but now own one.

I have a potential purchase of an overdrive gearbox for $1,200 that 
is supposed to be rebuilt.

Can anyone tell me if the price is fair, and what dangers lurk here?

Thanks for any help you can give me!

Don Scott
Calistoga CA 

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jul 28 22:41:38 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 22:41:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 in News Show?
In-Reply-To: <871802.9312.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <871802.9312.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F46075B74644449AA8C1FFDF01E4511F@bboffice>

Don't know about that one but the Perry Mason episode with Werner
Klemper(aka Comandant Klink) was on tonight where he is driving a white
TR2(possibly a 3)4. 

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 8:46 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR3 in News Show?

    I saw a trailer for an upcoming TV show called something like "Campus
Crush". I saw it on ABC while watching AFV. It looked like a high schooler
in a TR3. I only saw a windscreen and a back end view briefly. Has anyone
else seen this?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 28 22:53:51 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 21:53:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive question
In-Reply-To: <20100729044222.AA98A24BA5F@mail.napanet.net>
References: <20100729044222.AA98A24BA5F@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <33e401cb2eda$0a6524a0$0301a8c0@randall>

> I have a potential purchase of an overdrive gearbox for $1,200 that 
> is supposed to be rebuilt.
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the price is fair, and what dangers lurk here?

Good price, IMO, if it has been properly rebuilt.  Main danger is that
something is wrong, and it will need to be rebuilt again.  If you can get
some kind of warranty from the seller, that might be worth paying more.

Randall

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Wed Jul 28 22:58:35 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 00:58:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9461C8@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Despite a great deal of enjoyment of my Little British Car, it's rare that I
get in any machine made in the UK other than the the notorious London taxis on
occasional visits to that city. So, my reference material is a bit dated. A
couple of days ago I had a chance to see how things have come along since the
sixties.

I had me partner in this week-end from New York. He drove up to Montreal in
the shiny new toy he bought last week.  A deep blue Jaguar XJL supersport with
the 510+ Hp supercharged engine. Oh yeah...

Between sessions of machievellian business machinations we took some time for
a run on the road. He flipped me the dongle with the proximity transmitter in
it ("keys" sounded nicer, but they have gone the way of the dodo) and we
headed down some highways and byways so I could experience how this rather
stylish looking beast actually feels to drive.

I have to say that Jaguar mechanics in Britain have come a ways since the
de-fordisation. Montreal roads suck to put it politely, and yet the feel on
the ground was rock solid. We drove down the highway and I waggled the wheels
about a bit to get a feel for the suspension. Zig-zagging at highway speed
felt as tight as could be imagined. The car drives like it is on rails. Very
solid indeed, no sway or bump steer. Quiet and very much in contact with the
road without having any unwanted surface vibrations at all. The transmission
seems completely gearless.

As for power; frankly it's absurd. At one point I gave the throttle what I
thought was a normal push to move past another vehicle. Instantly, the jag did
it's level best to catapult me into the rear seat as the image on the guage
panel twitched rather violently and the whole highway shot backward. God alone
knows what would happen if you just floored it and held on. Anyway, with the
end of the road rushing at me it was comforting to halve the speed in about
zero time. I wouldn't want drive with a bag of groceries on the rear seat; the
sight of one's tomatoes shooting past and on into the windshield would be
rather gruesome.

So I'm impressed, there is still some real engineering going on over in the UK
(with some help from Indian money of course). Next time I will be better
prepared to appreciate the machine. We've agreed to exchange for the week-end
when he's back in August. He can pick up chicks in the old city while I try
some twisty turny roads in the countryside. I twitch at the thought. I still
love my TR6, the smile factor is unbeatable, but I want to try that toy again.
It's sort of Twiggy versus Viva La Voom. I don't feel guilty; I'm not fickle,
but a man can only take so much temptation...

Mark Hooper
1972 Tr6

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Jul 28 23:27:48 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 22:27:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Tehachapi Fires
Message-ID: <608359.95327.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Several good listers have inquired about the fires in Tehachapi. I am a
long way away and the Triumphs are both safe from fires (unless they set
themselves on fire...).
     On an interesting note: In 1991 I built a house in the mountains. We sold
it and moved in 1995 because I had meth addicts with pit bulls for neighbors
(there were lots of them up there). That is the house that is burning in most
of the photos that you see on the news. It was two stories and had a covered
entry porch. It can be seen on the front page of the Bakersfield Californian,
the LA Times and the Huffington Post. It was on the Today Show, Yahoo News,
AOL News and MSNBC.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/38434413/ns/us_news-life

     For some reason I can't paste links using Windows 7.
     Such is life.
     Jon Paschke, another lister was my framer on the house before we both got
into British cars.

     -Bill

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Wed Jul 28 23:44:39 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 01:44:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tehachapi Fires
In-Reply-To: <608359.95327.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <608359.95327.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9461CA@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Bill:

I'm sorry to hear that your old place was ruined. It's sad to see one's work
destroyed, even if you have since moved on.

Wasn't it you who wrote about trying live off-grid and being confronted with
the loony neighbours?

Cheers,

Mark

________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of William Brewer [wsb1960tr3a at att.net]
Sent: July 29, 2010 1:27 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Tehachapi Fires

     Several good listers have inquired about the fires in Tehachapi. I am a
long way away and the Triumphs are both safe from fires (unless they set
themselves on fire...).
     On an interesting note: In 1991 I built a house in the mountains. We
sold
it and moved in 1995 because I had meth addicts with pit bulls for neighbors
(there were lots of them up there). That is the house that is burning in most
of the photos that you see on the news. It was two stories and had a covered
entry porch. It can be seen on the front page of the Bakersfield Californian,
the LA Times and the Huffington Post. It was on the Today Show, Yahoo News,
AOL News and MSNBC.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/38434413/ns/us_news-life

     For some reason I can't paste links using Windows 7.
     Such is life.
     Jon Paschke, another lister was my framer on the house before we both
got
into British cars.

     -Bill

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Jul 29 06:38:39 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 05:38:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Tehachapi Fires
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9461CA@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <17651.91350.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Yep, that was me. Loonie doesn't even begin to describe it. If you move
too far off the beaten path you run into people who are hiding out. Crazies &
druggies.
     It was still hard to see the old home burning...

     -Bill in Tehachapi

--- On Wed, 7/28/10, Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca> wrote:

From: Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
Subject: RE: [TR] Tehachapi Fires
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>, "Triumphs"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 28, 2010, 10:44 PM

Hi Bill:

I'm sorry to hear that your old place was ruined. It's sad to see one's work
destroyed, even if you have since moved on.

Wasn't it you who wrote about trying live off-grid and being confronted with
the loony neighbours?

Cheers,

Mark

________________________________________
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of William Brewer [wsb1960tr3a at att.net]
Sent: July 29, 2010 1:27 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Tehachapi Fires

     Several good listers have inquired about the fires in Tehachapi. I am a
long way away and the Triumphs are both safe from fires (unless they set
themselves on fire...).
     On an interesting note: In 1991 I built a house in the mountains. We
sold
it and moved in 1995 because I had meth addicts with pit bulls for neighbors
(there were lots of them up there). That is the house that is burning in most
of the photos that you see on the news. It was two stories and had a covered
entry porch. It can be seen on the front page of the Bakersfield Californian,
the LA Times and the Huffington Post. It was on the Today Show, Yahoo News,
AOL News and MSNBC.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/38434413/ns/us_news-life

     For some reason I can't paste links using Windows 7.
     Such is life.
     Jon Paschke, another lister was my framer on the house before we both
got
into British cars.

     -Bill

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 29 06:51:34 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 05:51:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] E-mails in Spam box
Message-ID: <578784.9784.qm@web51608.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
 
Many of the times my E-mails that I send out go into people's 'Spam Box'. So
would Bob D. of Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> , please check to see if you have
my Email in there.
 
Also, I'm interested in knowing the number of people, NOT Specifically
who, that just delete all the mail in their 'Spam Box' with out looking at the
subject lines first?
TIA,

-Cosmo Kramer

From mntr3a at aol.com  Thu Jul 29 08:23:30 2010
From: mntr3a at aol.com (mntr3a at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 10:23:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] overdrive
Message-ID: <8CCFD40C0F8DBFA-21B4-B066@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com>

Don thats a lot of cash unless it includes a transmission. If not you will
still need an adapter plate,short shaft,wiring and switch,

plus if quality unknown you'll want to rebuild it before you install it.




If it's with a tranny and has switch grab it fast it's a great price. If it's
only a (A) type in a box $500.00

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 29 11:36:25 2010
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 12:36:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive question
In-Reply-To: <20100729044222.AA98A24BA5F@mail.napanet.net>
References: <20100729044222.AA98A24BA5F@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w3815BB78D7561AA8F9E848B9A90@phx.gbl>

Don-

>
> I have a potential purchase of an overdrive gearbox for
$1,200 that
> is supposed to be rebuilt.
>

For a rebuilt full od transmission I think that is a very good price.
Rebuilt, reputable units can fetch over $2000.   If it is not rebuilt or
questionable then the price is about average maybe even slightly high.

Just my opinion!
Randy
64 TR4
59 TR3A

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Thu Jul 29 15:08:13 2010
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 17:08:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive question
Message-ID: <7b803.14be31cc.398347bc@aol.com>

I have a potential purchase of an overdrive gearbox for  $1,200 that 
is supposed to be rebuilt.



Don:

Best to ask for proof of rebuild with invoices and who  did the work.  You 
can easily double that price to have it done  right.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
TRA in Fort Wayne, Indiana in 2011





_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/loumetelko at aol.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jul 29 16:42:13 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:42:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 in News Show?
In-Reply-To: <F46075B74644449AA8C1FFDF01E4511F@bboffice>
References: <871802.9312.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<F46075B74644449AA8C1FFDF01E4511F@bboffice>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimA2T2AaBzGY-aeV7JBgSNvx-+EDuENqZ1V_vYM@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/28/10, wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> Don't know about that one but the Perry Mason episode with Werner
> Klemper(aka Comandant Klink) was on tonight where he is driving a white
> TR2(possibly a 3)4.

It was a 3A...

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/tr-klink3.JPG

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Jul 29 18:41:18 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 20:41:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 in News Show?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimA2T2AaBzGY-aeV7JBgSNvx-+EDuENqZ1V_vYM@mail.gmail.com>
References: <871802.9312.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><F46075B74644449AA8C1FFDF01E4511F@bboffice>
	<AANLkTimA2T2AaBzGY-aeV7JBgSNvx-+EDuENqZ1V_vYM@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CCFD970E9EEB8D-A14-64E0@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com>

 Geo, that photo looks like an earlier TR3, with the center-mounted
stop/number plate lamp, etc.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: wbeech at flash.net
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 29, 2010 6:42 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in News Show?


On 7/28/10, wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Don't know about that one but the Perry Mason episode with Werner

> Klemper(aka Comandant Klink) was on tonight where he is driving a white

> TR2(possibly a 3)4.



It was a 3A...



http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/tr-klink3.JPG

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Jul 29 18:51:02 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 18:51:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 in News Show?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimA2T2AaBzGY-aeV7JBgSNvx-+EDuENqZ1V_vYM@mail.gmail.com>
References: <871802.9312.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><F46075B74644449AA8C1FFDF01E4511F@bboffice>
	<AANLkTimA2T2AaBzGY-aeV7JBgSNvx-+EDuENqZ1V_vYM@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <452485D191734CF29A44C2930AA734ED@bboffice>

Nope, can't be as it has no separate turn signal lamps(pre-TS15601) or
center trunk release.  Also, in earlier frames of that screen you can see
that it is a small-mouth. 
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 4:42 PM
To: wbeech at flash.net
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in News Show?

On 7/28/10, wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> Don't know about that one but the Perry Mason episode with Werner 
> Klemper(aka Comandant Klink) was on tonight where he is driving a 
> white TR2(possibly a 3)4.

It was a 3A...

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/tr-klink3.JPG

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jul 29 20:56:54 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 19:56:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 in News Show?
In-Reply-To: <452485D191734CF29A44C2930AA734ED@bboffice>
References: <871802.9312.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<F46075B74644449AA8C1FFDF01E4511F@bboffice>
	<AANLkTimA2T2AaBzGY-aeV7JBgSNvx-+EDuENqZ1V_vYM@mail.gmail.com>
	<452485D191734CF29A44C2930AA734ED@bboffice>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinNsdwK6sD7aKsiUc2NmQY4DuK2Xqh-YDUb3dce@mail.gmail.com>

I stand corrected, you are both quite right.  What *was* I thinking?

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 29 23:48:32 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 22:48:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 in News Show?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinNsdwK6sD7aKsiUc2NmQY4DuK2Xqh-YDUb3dce@mail.gmail.com>
References: <871802.9312.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<F46075B74644449AA8C1FFDF01E4511F@bboffice>
	<AANLkTimA2T2AaBzGY-aeV7JBgSNvx-+EDuENqZ1V_vYM@mail.gmail.com>
	<452485D191734CF29A44C2930AA734ED@bboffice>
	<AANLkTinNsdwK6sD7aKsiUc2NmQY4DuK2Xqh-YDUb3dce@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a06240800c8781792c756@[192.168.2.4]>

Yup that was my car, I was approached by the shows producers and 
offered $1500 for one days work and the  use of my car ... naturally 
I held out for $3000 ... I will have to admit the catered buffet was 
great, or would have been but Perry ate it all ... >:-}

-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Fri Jul 30 00:09:18 2010
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 23:09:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tex springback mirrors
In-Reply-To: <5649D4BA130342BA8A402F4A1D43D4AC@KENTECHHP>
References: <5649D4BA130342BA8A402F4A1D43D4AC@KENTECHHP>
Message-ID: <E09675CD-9A16-4206-BDC8-B87CA8A3CF89@roadrunner.com>

PeterK,
It never fails ! I finally found a Tex supplier via the UK and just  
ordered a pair this morning from them ($40.00 each). The ones with the  
round mirrors (MO108C) were discontinued, so I got the oblong shaped  
ones (MO108C). I must somehow have missed your earlier reply.
BTW - great looking car! Looks like the mirrors I had in mind.
Sorry,
Hans

On Jul 29, 2010, at 12:39 PM, Peter K wrote:

> Hans de Ferrante -
>
> I replied to your post on team.net a couple of weeks back. Have you  
> found a set of mirrors for your TR3 yet? I have a NOS set of stems  
> in boxes and slightly used set of mirror heads that I'd like to  
> sell. If interested, I will dig them out, photo, and offer you a  
> fair price for the set. I am in Maine.
>
> bgrds,
> PeterK
>
> btw- this is mine http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/traaa_sm.jpg

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Jul 30 00:11:29 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 00:11:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 in News Show?
In-Reply-To: <a06240800c8781792c756@[192.168.2.4]>
References: <871802.9312.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><F46075B74644449AA8C1FFDF01E4511F@bboffice><AANLkTimA2T2AaBzGY-aeV7JBgSNvx-+EDuENqZ1V_vYM@mail.gmail.com><452485D191734CF29A44C2930AA734ED@bboffice><AANLkTinNsdwK6sD7aKsiUc2NmQY4DuK2Xqh-YDUb3dce@mail.gmail.com>
	<a06240800c8781792c756@[192.168.2.4]>
Message-ID: <AAB2A557282043478DC539F10FEC7A2D@bboffice>

Very cool indeed, we still watch Perry Mason almost every night!  Is that
also your car in the only other PM episode with a TR3 (that I know of),
something involving a school girl that give her new boots to a friend to
help her swap identities? 

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:49 PM
To: Geo Hahn; Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR3 in News Show?

Yup that was my car, I was approached by the shows producers and offered
$1500 for one days work and the  use of my car ... naturally I held out for
$3000 ... I will have to admit the catered buffet was great, or would have
been but Perry ate it all ... >:-}

--
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake
it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 30 04:44:49 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 03:44:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas  generator/ E-mails in Spam box
Message-ID: <126736.14550.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Subject: [TR] E-mails in Spam box
Date: Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:16 PM



From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: "Cosmo Kramer" tr4a2712 at yahoo.com
 



On Thursday, July 29, 2010 08:51:34 am Cosmo Kramer wrote:
> Hi List!
>
> Many of the times my E-mails that I send out go into people's 'Spam Box'.
> So would Bob D. of Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> , please check to see > if
you have my Email in there.
>
>
Cosmo,

If you sent this mail to the mail list then as you can see I received it.

If you sent me mail directly to yellowtr from tr4a2712 then I did not get it.
It is not in my trash.

I have no filters currently on this address. If it did not get here it must
have been filtered at my post office which is adelphia.net (road runner)

Bob
 
 
-------------------------------
FIRST Org. message sent to bob in reply to hislist thread:
=======
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:15:39 -0400
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas  generator

If I remember correctly, the way I test a generator is to attach a + lead to
ground on the generator from the battery and - to both the small and large
spade connectors and if the generator spins like a motor it is good to go. I
am sure there are other ways to check out each circuit with a meter. I believe
there is a diagnostic on the web somewhere to check the entire charging
circuit.
-  -  -  -The reply sent to Bob's 'In Box':
Hi Bob!
 
Is this set-up for a gen. that is normally (+) earth {LikeTR4's} or (-) earth
{Like TR4A's}  when in the car?
 
Because if it's for (+) earth cars, then switching the leads would be for the
(-) earth cars?
 
Because I don't want to try this & find that it shorted out because of the
Gen.'s polarity.
-Cosmo Kramer
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
Hi List!
Many of the times I'll reply to threads by personial mail because by the time
I get to some of my TR List Digest readings, the list has moved on to have my
message show up on the list some 3 days later. To me this is 'rehashing' an
old thread & may becoming a newsentce to many list people. which is NOT my
intention.

-Cosmo Kramer

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Jul 30 08:28:32 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 09:28:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9461C8@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <E2C9AD3013C54779BB28D88472889AB9@trigeni.com>

So, what is "notorious" about London Taxis?  Do you have an objection to 
riding in cabs that are required to be clean, by ordinance, and that are 
driven by drivers who can get you where you need to be without resorting to 
GPS?

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:58 PM
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive


> Despite a great deal of enjoyment of my Little British Car, it's rare that 
> I
> get in any machine made in the UK other than the the notorious London 
> taxis on
> occasional visits to that city. So, my reference material is a bit dated. 
> A

From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 30 09:06:23 2010
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 08:06:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
In-Reply-To: <E2C9AD3013C54779BB28D88472889AB9@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <640445.34254.qm@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

They are known around the world. Not necessarily as objectionable, just known.
That is enough to make them notorious.
John Young NASS# 528
Indiana
'78 Spitfire
'66 Spitfire
'59 TR3A (getting body work)
'59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway.


--- On Fri, 7/30/10, Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com> wrote:

> From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
> To: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 10:28 AM
> So, what is "notorious" about London
> Taxis?  Do you have an objection to riding in cabs that
> are required to be clean, by ordinance, and that are driven
> by drivers who can get you where you need to be without
> resorting to GPS?
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:58 PM
> Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still
> automotive
>
>
> > Despite a great deal of enjoyment of my Little British
> Car, it's rare that I
> > get in any machine made in the UK other than the the
> notorious London taxis on
> > occasional visits to that city. So, my reference
> material is a bit dated. A

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Fri Jul 30 09:34:03 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 11:34:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] Powdercoated Wheels
Message-ID: <51e54.3b9b0e3c.39844aeb@aol.com>

My 2 cents:   I have had great success with the local powdercoater doing 
wheels for British cars.   He has been at it long enough to have zeroed in on 
the correct color (no blue hue) and sprays a matte clear top coat on them to 
dull the luster, just like original wheels.   At $65. each, including the 
sandblasting, they seem a very good deal to me.   Especially so for wire 
wheels!   FWIW, the powdercoater is in Palmyra, NY, east of Rochester.
George Haynes

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri Jul 30 10:16:44 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 12:16:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
In-Reply-To: <640445.34254.qm@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9B6F@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi John:

That is indeed the meaning I intended. With certain reservations I have to say
that the London cabs are better than almost any others I have used. "The
Knowledge" is still taught and I enjoy being in a car where the driver
actually comes from the city he is working in and can tell you about it. In my
own town of Montreal that is rather unlikely to be true. I have had to turn my
driver around 180 degrees on many an occasion to get to where I wish to go.

Cheers,

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Young
Sent: July 30, 2010 11:06 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive

They are known around the world. Not necessarily as objectionable, just
known.
That is enough to make them notorious.
John Young NASS# 528
Indiana
'78 Spitfire
'66 Spitfire
'59 TR3A (getting body work)
'59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway.


--- On Fri, 7/30/10, Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com> wrote:

> From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
> To: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 10:28 AM
> So, what is "notorious" about London
> Taxis?  Do you have an objection to riding in cabs that
> are required to be clean, by ordinance, and that are driven
> by drivers who can get you where you need to be without
> resorting to GPS?
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:58 PM
> Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still
> automotive
>
>
> > Despite a great deal of enjoyment of my Little British
> Car, it's rare that I
> > get in any machine made in the UK other than the the
> notorious London taxis on
> > occasional visits to that city. So, my reference
> material is a bit dated. A

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Jul 30 10:55:45 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 12:55:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] coil capacitor
Message-ID: <201007301255.46605.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hi,

Does anyone know where I could get a capacitor that mounts on the coil bracket 
that is used to suppress noise to the radio? Would the distributor cap work? I 
have plenty of those around.

My coil bracket has the mount but the cap that was there was missing the wire 
that would hook up to the coil.

I get noise on my Triumph AM radio and figure this would help.

I cant use the special ignition wires as I use the bumble bee wire with Lodge 
ends.

Thanks,

Bob 

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Jul 30 11:05:08 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 12:05:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
References: <640445.34254.qm@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D88306B99585434C8960E6F5256506BD@trigeni.com>

Well, I think that makes them famous, not notorious.  I always thought the 
definition for notorious was "well known but in an unfavorable light", or 
something similar.

OK, so I am a pedant...

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Young" <jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive


> They are known around the world. Not necessarily as objectionable, just 
> known.
> That is enough to make them notorious.
> John Young NASS# 528
> Indiana
> '78 Spitfire
> '66 Spitfire
> '59 TR3A (getting body work)
> '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway.
>
>
> --- On Fri, 7/30/10, Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
>> To: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>, triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 10:28 AM
>> So, what is "notorious" about London
>> Taxis?  Do you have an objection to riding in cabs that
>> are required to be clean, by ordinance, and that are driven
>> by drivers who can get you where you need to be without
>> resorting to GPS?
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:58 PM
>> Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still
>> automotive
>>
>>
>> > Despite a great deal of enjoyment of my Little British
>> Car, it's rare that I
>> > get in any machine made in the UK other than the the
>> notorious London taxis on
>> > occasional visits to that city. So, my reference
>> material is a bit dated. A
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com

From jdabars at att.net  Fri Jul 30 11:09:46 2010
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:09:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Re. Perry Mason TR
Message-ID: <988799.46174.qm@web83711.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

On e bay item 140430847224.
There is a small mouth '57 TR 3  VIN  TS 15387 L
Belief is that this Triumph was used in the Perry Mason
episode and then sold
to a bloke in Illinois who drove
it meny years until the klutch gave up and he
parked it.
Been siting outside for the best of 25+years---strong british
steel.
Presently, Triumph, still outside in Quincey, Illinois, USA.
Not far
from the Mississippi River.  SOMEONE---Please save it
from the river or scrap
heap.

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul 30 11:36:13 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:36:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] coil capacitor
In-Reply-To: <201007301255.46605.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201007301255.46605.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <15379C4B7D084049B82D066619F5C677@joepentiumnew>

You could ask at your local auto supply store or try Radio Shack.  They are
called Filter capacitors because they filter RF noise to ground.  You should
also make sure that your plug wires are resistive type because the filter
capacitor on the coil won't do much if you are using solid plug wires.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 9:56 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] coil capacitor

Hi,

Does anyone know where I could get a capacitor that mounts on the coil
bracket 
that is used to suppress noise to the radio? Would the distributor cap work?
I 
have plenty of those around.

My coil bracket has the mount but the cap that was there was missing the
wire 
that would hook up to the coil.

I get noise on my Triumph AM radio and figure this would help.

I cant use the special ignition wires as I use the bumble bee wire with
Lodge 
ends.

Thanks,

Bob 

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul 30 11:38:06 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:38:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
In-Reply-To: <D88306B99585434C8960E6F5256506BD@trigeni.com>
References: <640445.34254.qm@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<D88306B99585434C8960E6F5256506BD@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <B153AFAFB8D0485F9B827CF874381059@joepentiumnew>

I think you are describing the difference between Famous and infamous.

Notorious simply implies that the person (or thing) is noteworthy not
necessarily for good or bad reasons.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Marr
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 10:05 AM
To: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive

Well, I think that makes them famous, not notorious.  I always thought the 
definition for notorious was "well known but in an unfavorable light", or 
something similar.

OK, so I am a pedant...

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Young" <jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive


> They are known around the world. Not necessarily as objectionable, just 
> known.
> That is enough to make them notorious.
> John Young NASS# 528
> Indiana
> '78 Spitfire
> '66 Spitfire
> '59 TR3A (getting body work)
> '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway.
>
>
> --- On Fri, 7/30/10, Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
>> To: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>, triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 10:28 AM
>> So, what is "notorious" about London
>> Taxis?  Do you have an objection to riding in cabs that
>> are required to be clean, by ordinance, and that are driven
>> by drivers who can get you where you need to be without
>> resorting to GPS?
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:58 PM
>> Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still
>> automotive
>>
>>
>> > Despite a great deal of enjoyment of my Little British
>> Car, it's rare that I
>> > get in any machine made in the UK other than the the
>> notorious London taxis on
>> > occasional visits to that city. So, my reference
>> material is a bit dated. A
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Fri Jul 30 11:56:57 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:56:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
Message-ID: <199347.99573.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I saw the trailer again while watching AFV on ABC. The show is "Campus
Crush". They only show the upper windscreen frame and a quick shot of the rear
deck behind where the hood sticks would be. It may be a Bugeye instead. Now
I'll be forced to watch a trashy chick flick TV show to see what it is. With
my luck, the wife and daughters will like it, watch it regularly and the car
will never be featured again.

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Jul 30 12:13:43 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 14:13:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
In-Reply-To: <B153AFAFB8D0485F9B827CF874381059@joepentiumnew>
References: <640445.34254.qm@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com><D88306B99585434C8960E6F5256506BD@trigeni.com>
	<B153AFAFB8D0485F9B827CF874381059@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <8CCFE2A1416B0CC-2CD0-1369@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com>

 From Merriam-Webster, online:


Pronunciation: \nE
-KtoLr-D-Is, nI-\
Function:  adjective
Etymology: Medieval Latin notorius, from Late Latin notorium information,
indictment, from Latin noscere to come to know  b more at know
Date: 1534
 : generally known and talked of; especially  : widely and unfavorably known



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 30 12:16:40 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 11:16:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
In-Reply-To: <E2C9AD3013C54779BB28D88472889AB9@trigeni.com>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9461C8@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<E2C9AD3013C54779BB28D88472889AB9@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <198477.80820.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

and when i left the country, at least in Liverpool, cabs where still
required by 
law to carry a bucket of water and a small bail of hay in the
trunk. in case the 
horse needed it.
in reality no one ever did carry them,
but suck sweet law.
Frank


________________________________
From: Michael
Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
To: Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, July 30, 2010 7:28:32 AM
Subject: Re: [TR]
New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive

So, what is "notorious"
about London Taxis?  Do you have an objection to riding 
in cabs that are
required to be clean, by ordinance, and that are driven by 
drivers who can
get you where you need to be without resorting to GPS?

Mike

----- Original
Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To:
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:58 PM
Subject:
[TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive


> Despite a great
deal of enjoyment of my Little British Car, it's rare that I
> get in any
machine made in the UK other than the the notorious London taxis on
>
occasional visits to that city. So, my reference material is a bit dated. A
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Jul 30 14:26:09 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:26:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
References: <640445.34254.qm@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com><D88306B99585434C8960E6F5256506BD@trigeni.com><B153AFAFB8D0485F9B827CF874381059@joepentiumnew>
	<8CCFE2A1416B0CC-2CD0-1369@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <6EE2E6E0D86E4E16960AB1C0C8E1C930@trigeni.com>

Thanks, Andy.  Its that "unfavorably" word that is important.  To me, 
someone or something that is notorious is not nice.  As I concluded in 
another post, which may have been too long because it doesn't seem to have 
made it to the list, this could be a case of the UK (where I was educated) 
and the USA (where I live) being two nations divided by a common language. 
My impression is that "notorious" generally has negative connotations when 
used in the UK, whereas in the US, apparently, it may simply mean that 
something is noteworthy.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Mace" <zoboherald at aol.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive


> From Merriam-Webster, online:
>
>
> Pronunciation: \nE
> -KtoLr-D-Is, nI-\
> Function:  adjective
> Etymology: Medieval Latin notorius, from Late Latin notorium information,
> indictment, from Latin noscere to come to know  b more at know
> Date: 1534
> : generally known and talked of; especially  : widely and unfavorably 
> known
>
>
>
> --Andy Mace
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
> Herald engine with wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
>
> Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
> Register: http://www.vtr.org
>
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
> Herald
> Database: http://triumph-herald.us
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Fri Jul 30 14:44:51 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 16:44:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Compression Ratio question
Message-ID: <A249BEBA7C3B427B992216FDD91D3942@TRGUY>

Thanks again for all the reponses on the poweder coating of the steel wheels.
I had the ten year old tires taken off today, ready to go to the bead blaster
and found out the rims are TR3 (4 inch width and not 4 1/2).  So if anyone
needs 4 inch rims, I have four good ones. I still can't believe there were
P205/75/15s on those 4 inch rims.

The compression readings on my "new" 62 TR4 are 185, 199, 196, 195.  No
history on the motor except it had a new cam and rocker arm assembly
installed.  Might have been more but no record and no access to prev owner.
This car was off the road for almost four years sitting outside.  Got it
running and it runs well!  How are these numbers compared to fresh engine,
shaved head for modified use etc.  They seem high to me, but my comparison
point is a modified TR6 engine and those run mid 170s for a fresh engine.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 30 15:06:26 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 14:06:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] coil capacitor
In-Reply-To: <201007301255.46605.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201007301255.46605.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <007401cb302b$1329e1f0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Does anyone know where I could get a capacitor that mounts on 
> the coil bracket 
> that is used to suppress noise to the radio? Would the 
> distributor cap work?

Worth trying, to see if it helps.  If it does help, then finding a filter
capacitor might help some more (they usually have more capacitance than the
point condenser does).

You might also try connecting one at the generator output, directly from the
output to the generator case.  Last time I had anything to do with AM radio
in a Triumph (actually Citizens Band, but using AM modulation), the
generator was making most of the noise.

> I cant use the special ignition wires as I use the bumble bee wire with
Lodge 
> ends.

I believe the Lodge ends are supposed to have suppression resistors built
into them, the cap definitely should.  You might check them with an
ohmmeter, reproductions might not have the resistors.

Randall

From gdewine at aol.com  Fri Jul 30 15:12:07 2010
From: gdewine at aol.com (gdewine at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 17:12:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installation of a spin on oil filter adapter
Message-ID: <8CCFE430087E578-2104-105AD@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com>

 I purchased a spin on oil adapter for my TR3. It is to go onto the Puralator
filter head. I applied gasket sealer along with the sealing ring thinking I
would avoid having a leak. I have a leak between the old filter head and
machined aluminum  adapter...  I am in need of advice and direction...

Gary
1961 TR3A

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri Jul 30 15:59:15 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 17:59:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
In-Reply-To: <D88306B99585434C8960E6F5256506BD@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9B77@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Mike:

A pedant eh? Does that involve an unhealthy fixation on young syntax, or is it
some sort of bicycle fetishist? Brave of you to admit it. Are there help
groups? :^P

Thus, I stand corrected for my inappropriate use of the term "notorious".
Famous it is. Of course, my friend who was run over by a London cab would vote
for the former description. Do you own shares in LTI by any chance?

For some reason those vehicles never caught on in North America. I think they
would be a huge improvement over the yellow golf balls driving around
Manhattan.

Cheers,

Mark



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Marr
Sent: July 30, 2010 1:05 PM
To: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive

Well, I think that makes them famous, not notorious.  I always thought the
definition for notorious was "well known but in an unfavorable light", or
something similar.

OK, so I am a pedant...

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Young" <jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive


> They are known around the world. Not necessarily as objectionable, just
> known.
> That is enough to make them notorious.
> John Young NASS# 528
> Indiana
> '78 Spitfire
> '66 Spitfire
> '59 TR3A (getting body work)
> '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway.
>
>
> --- On Fri, 7/30/10, Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
>> To: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>, triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 10:28 AM
>> So, what is "notorious" about London
>> Taxis?  Do you have an objection to riding in cabs that
>> are required to be clean, by ordinance, and that are driven
>> by drivers who can get you where you need to be without
>> resorting to GPS?
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:58 PM
>> Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still
>> automotive
>>
>>
>> > Despite a great deal of enjoyment of my Little British
>> Car, it's rare that I
>> > get in any machine made in the UK other than the the
>> notorious London taxis on
>> > occasional visits to that city. So, my reference
>> material is a bit dated. A

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Jul 30 16:00:16 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 18:00:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
In-Reply-To: <199347.99573.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <199347.99573.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3838731142CF404CA2F7463BA837F389@CarlPC>

Campus Crush is evidently a theme for a series of shows on ABC Family 
8/1-8/10.  Not sure which of about 30 movies it might be.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 1:56 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer


>     I saw the trailer again while watching AFV on ABC. The show is "Campus
> Crush". They only show the upper windscreen frame and a quick shot of the 
> rear
> deck behind where the hood sticks would be. It may be a Bugeye instead. 
> Now
> I'll be forced to watch a trashy chick flick TV show to see what it is. 
> With
> my luck, the wife and daughters will like it, watch it regularly and the 
> car
> will never be featured again.
>
>     -Bill in Tehachapi
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Fri Jul 30 16:13:02 2010
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (jeremiah at curryclan.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 18:13:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Installation of a spin on oil filter adapter
In-Reply-To: <8CCFE430087E578-2104-105AD@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCFE430087E578-2104-105AD@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <534708423.46559.1280527983038.JavaMail.open-xchange@oxusltgw07.schlund.de>

I hate to admit it, but I had mine on backwards.B  Make sure yours isn't
B 

On July 30, 2010 at 9:12 PM gdewine at aol.com wrote:

>B  I purchased a spin on oil adapter for my TR3. It is to go onto the
Puralator
> filter head. I applied gasket sealer along with the sealing ring thinking I
> would avoid having a leak. I have a leak between the old filter head and
> machined aluminumB  adapter...B  I am in need of advice and direction...
>
> Gary
> 1961 TR3A
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 30 16:23:48 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:23:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Installation of a spin on oil filter adapter
In-Reply-To: <8CCFE430087E578-2104-105AD@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCFE430087E578-2104-105AD@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <008701cb3035$e1f4ae20$0301a8c0@randall>

>  I purchased a spin on oil adapter for my TR3. It is to go 
> onto the Puralator
> filter head. I applied gasket sealer along with the sealing 
> ring thinking I
> would avoid having a leak. I have a leak between the old 
> filter head and
> machined aluminum  adapter...  I am in need of advice and direction...

Check that there is not another gasket lurking in the groove in the filter
head.  It's very common to find two of them in there already, especially if
it has always tended to leak.  Clean the groove thoroughly, until you can
see nice, shiny metal at the bottom.  Also inspect the sealing surface of
the adapter, to be sure it's perfectly smooth and round.  And of course you
should be using a new sealing ring.

If that doesn't do it, check to be sure the adapter isn't bottoming out
against the center portion of the original filter head.  I've heard reports
that some of them are too short.

Randall

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Fri Jul 30 16:25:31 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:25:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
In-Reply-To: <3838731142CF404CA2F7463BA837F389@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <112885.88563.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     It's the TV shows and not the movies.
     Still curious if it's a TR3 or
not.

     -Bill in Tehachapi     

--- On Fri, 7/30/10, Carl TR
<cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> Subject:
Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
> To: "William Brewer"
<wsb1960tr3a at att.net>, "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday,
July 30, 2010, 3:00 PM
> Campus Crush is evidently a theme for
> a series of
shows on ABC Family 8/1-8/10.  Not sure
> which of about 30 movies it might
be.
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer"
<wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent:
Friday, July 30, 2010 1:56 PM
> Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
> 
>
> >     I saw the trailer again while
> watching AFV on ABC. The show is
"Campus
> > Crush". They only show the upper windscreen frame and
> a quick
shot of the rear
> > deck behind where the hood sticks would be. It may be
> a
Bugeye instead. Now
> > I'll be forced to watch a trashy chick flick TV show
>
to see what it is. With
> > my luck, the wife and daughters will like it,
watch it
> regularly and the car
> > will never be featured again.
> > 
> > 
   -Bill in Tehachapi
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Jul 30 16:33:43 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 22:33:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tex springback mirrors
In-Reply-To: <E09675CD-9A16-4206-BDC8-B87CA8A3CF89@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <2014849965.788216.1280529223539.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Peter, if you still have them for sale, contact me offlist?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans de Ferrante" <tr3 at roadrunner.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 2:09:18 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Tex springback mirrors

PeterK,
It never fails ! I finally found a Tex supplier via the UK and just  
ordered a pair this morning from them ($40.00 each). The ones with the  
round mirrors (MO108C) were discontinued, so I got the oblong shaped  
ones (MO108C). I must somehow have missed your earlier reply.
BTW - great looking car! Looks like the mirrors I had in mind.
Sorry,
Hans

On Jul 29, 2010, at 12:39 PM, Peter K wrote:

> Hans de Ferrante -
>
> I replied to your post on team.net a couple of weeks back. Have you  
> found a set of mirrors for your TR3 yet? I have a NOS set of stems  
> in boxes and slightly used set of mirror heads that I'd like to  
> sell. If interested, I will dig them out, photo, and offer you a  
> fair price for the set. I am in Maine.
>
> bgrds,
> PeterK
>
> btw- this is mine http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/traaa_sm.jpg

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Jul 30 17:00:55 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 19:00:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
In-Reply-To: <112885.88563.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <112885.88563.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8E9A4F5454234AE5AABBBAD65BBEAFD3@CarlPC>

It is the movie: "Wild Child" on Aug 8. 
http://abcfamily.go.com/movies/wild-child

There are two different trailers - car in one at about :42 and the other 
right at the end.  I couldn't tell make.
C



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer


     It's the TV shows and not the movies.
     Still curious if it's a TR3 or not.

     -Bill in Tehachapi

--- On Fri, 7/30/10, Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
> To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>, "Triumphs" 
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 3:00 PM
> Campus Crush is evidently a theme for
> a series of shows on ABC Family 8/1-8/10. Not sure
> which of about 30 movies it might be.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 1:56 PM
> Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
>
>
> > I saw the trailer again while
> watching AFV on ABC. The show is "Campus
> > Crush". They only show the upper windscreen frame and
> a quick shot of the rear
> > deck behind where the hood sticks would be. It may be
> a Bugeye instead. Now
> > I'll be forced to watch a trashy chick flick TV show
> to see what it is. With
> > my luck, the wife and daughters will like it, watch it
> regularly and the car
> > will never be featured again.
> >
> > -Bill in Tehachapi
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: 
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Jul 30 17:41:13 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 18:41:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
In-Reply-To: <8E9A4F5454234AE5AABBBAD65BBEAFD3@CarlPC>
References: <112885.88563.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<8E9A4F5454234AE5AABBBAD65BBEAFD3@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <DE51E979F0914606A1DBA0B364AEA149@ranteer.local>

I'm pretty sure that's a healey

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 6:00 PM
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>; "Triumphs" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer

> It is the movie: "Wild Child" on Aug 8. 
> http://abcfamily.go.com/movies/wild-child
>
> There are two different trailers - car in one at about :42 and the other 
> right at the end.  I couldn't tell make.
> C
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 6:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
>
>
>     It's the TV shows and not the movies.
>     Still curious if it's a TR3 or not.
>
>     -Bill in Tehachapi
>
> --- On Fri, 7/30/10, Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
>> To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>, "Triumphs" 
>> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 3:00 PM
>> Campus Crush is evidently a theme for
>> a series of shows on ABC Family 8/1-8/10. Not sure
>> which of about 30 movies it might be.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
>> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 1:56 PM
>> Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
>>
>>
>> > I saw the trailer again while
>> watching AFV on ABC. The show is "Campus
>> > Crush". They only show the upper windscreen frame and
>> a quick shot of the rear
>> > deck behind where the hood sticks would be. It may be
>> a Bugeye instead. Now
>> > I'll be forced to watch a trashy chick flick TV show
>> to see what it is. With
>> > my luck, the wife and daughters will like it, watch it
>> regularly and the car
>> > will never be featured again.
>> >
>> > -Bill in Tehachapi

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 30 18:34:33 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 19:34:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
In-Reply-To: <DE51E979F0914606A1DBA0B364AEA149@ranteer.local>
References: <112885.88563.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>,
	<8E9A4F5454234AE5AABBBAD65BBEAFD3@CarlPC>,
	<DE51E979F0914606A1DBA0B364AEA149@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W235E0A86F3424E20BDDA8EE1AB0@phx.gbl>

+1 on the healey

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> From: dave at ranteer.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 18:41:13 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
>
> I'm pretty sure that's a healey
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 6:00 PM
> To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>; "Triumphs"
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
>
> > It is the movie: "Wild Child" on Aug 8.
> > http://abcfamily.go.com/movies/wild-child
> >
> > There are two different trailers - car in one at about :42 and the other
> > right at the end. I couldn't tell make.
> > C
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> > To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> > Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 6:25 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
> >
> >
> > It's the TV shows and not the movies.
> > Still curious if it's a TR3 or not.
> >
> > -Bill in Tehachapi
> >
> > --- On Fri, 7/30/10, Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:
> >
> >> From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
> >> To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>, "Triumphs"
> >> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> >> Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 3:00 PM
> >> Campus Crush is evidently a theme for
> >> a series of shows on ABC Family 8/1-8/10. Not sure
> >> which of about 30 movies it might be.
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer"
<wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> >> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> >> Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 1:56 PM
> >> Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
> >>
> >>
> >> > I saw the trailer again while
> >> watching AFV on ABC. The show is "Campus
> >> > Crush". They only show the upper windscreen frame and
> >> a quick shot of the rear
> >> > deck behind where the hood sticks would be. It may be
> >> a Bugeye instead. Now
> >> > I'll be forced to watch a trashy chick flick TV show
> >> to see what it is. With
> >> > my luck, the wife and daughters will like it, watch it
> >> regularly and the car
> >> > will never be featured again.
> >> >
> >> > -Bill in Tehachapi
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Fri Jul 30 19:19:50 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 21:19:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
In-Reply-To: <8E9A4F5454234AE5AABBBAD65BBEAFD3@CarlPC>
References: <112885.88563.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<8E9A4F5454234AE5AABBBAD65BBEAFD3@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <8CCFE659B95D613-5EC-13332@webmail-m077.sysops.aol.com>

 1958 Sprite it is!


http://imcdb.org/vehicle_203535-Austin-Healey-Sprite-1958.html





-----Original Message-----
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>; Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 30, 2010 7:00 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer


It is the movie: "Wild Child" on Aug 8.
http://abcfamily.go.com/movies/wild-child

There are two different trailers - car in one at about :42 and the other right
at the end.  I couldn't tell make.
C


----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer

    It's the TV shows and not the movies.
    Still curious if it's a TR3 or not.

    -Bill in Tehachapi

--- On Fri, 7/30/10, Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
> To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>, "Triumphs" >
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 3:00 PM
> Campus Crush is evidently a theme for
> a series of shows on ABC Family 8/1-8/10. Not sure
> which of about 30 movies it might be.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 1:56 PM
> Subject: [TR] TR3 in New TV Show Trailer
>
>
> > I saw the trailer again while
> watching AFV on ABC. The show is "Campus
> > Crush". They only show the upper windscreen frame and
> a quick shot of the rear
> > deck behind where the hood sticks would be. It may be
> a Bugeye instead. Now
> > I'll be forced to watch a trashy chick flick TV show
> to see what it is. With
> > my luck, the wife and daughters will like it, watch it
> regularly and the car
> > will never be featured again.
> >
> > -Bill in Tehachapi
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: > >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Jul 30 20:25:37 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 22:25:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Powdercoated Wheels
In-Reply-To: <51e54.3b9b0e3c.39844aeb@aol.com>
References: <51e54.3b9b0e3c.39844aeb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <A529B8DAA7FB480ABFD1A5DE54198345@CarlPC>

George - if you could find out the brand/number of the powder, I am sure 
others besides myself would be appreciative.

My local powder shop constantly refers to a RAL number.  I am not sure if 
that is a specific brand or an across brands standard.

Thanks
Carl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 11:34 AM
Subject: [TR] Powdercoated Wheels


> My 2 cents:   I have had great success with the local powdercoater doing
> wheels for British cars.   He has been at it long enough to have zeroed in 
> on
> the correct color (no blue hue) and sprays a matte clear top coat on them 
> to
> dull the luster, just like original wheels.   At $65. each, including the
> sandblasting, they seem a very good deal to me.   Especially so for wire
> wheels!   FWIW, the powdercoater is in Palmyra, NY, east of Rochester.
> George Haynes
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Jul 30 20:44:01 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 21:44:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9B77@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <946EF4E06C3C4BDFBB81B4B9C93FBA45@trigeni.com>

Hahaha!  This reminds me of a true story about a group of people, in 
England, who were demonstrating outside a pediatrician's office because they 
thought the person was a pedophile.

The one thing I like about the Manhattan cabs is the new video display that 
the passenger compartment is equipped with, which enables you to see exactly 
where you are on a moving map.  Neat!

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To: "'Michael Marr'" <mmarr at notwires.com>; <jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com>; 
<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 4:59 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive


Hi Mike:

A pedant eh? Does that involve an unhealthy fixation on young syntax, or is 
it some sort of bicycle fetishist? Brave of you to admit it. Are there help 
groups? :^P

Thus, I stand corrected for my inappropriate use of the term "notorious". 
Famous it is. Of course, my friend who was run over by a London cab would 
vote for the former description. Do you own shares in LTI by any chance?

For some reason those vehicles never caught on in North America. I think 
they would be a huge improvement over the yellow golf balls driving around 
Manhattan.

Cheers,

Mark



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net 
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Marr
Sent: July 30, 2010 1:05 PM
To: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive

Well, I think that makes them famous, not notorious.  I always thought the
definition for notorious was "well known but in an unfavorable light", or
something similar.

OK, so I am a pedant...

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Young" <jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive


> They are known around the world. Not necessarily as objectionable, just
> known.
> That is enough to make them notorious.
> John Young NASS# 528
> Indiana
> '78 Spitfire
> '66 Spitfire
> '59 TR3A (getting body work)
> '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway.
>
>
> --- On Fri, 7/30/10, Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
>> To: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>, triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 10:28 AM
>> So, what is "notorious" about London
>> Taxis?  Do you have an objection to riding in cabs that
>> are required to be clean, by ordinance, and that are driven
>> by drivers who can get you where you need to be without
>> resorting to GPS?
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:58 PM
>> Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still
>> automotive
>>
>>
>> > Despite a great deal of enjoyment of my Little British
>> Car, it's rare that I
>> > get in any machine made in the UK other than the the
>> notorious London taxis on
>> > occasional visits to that city. So, my reference
>> material is a bit dated. A

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Jul 31 00:37:09 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 01:37:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Compression Ratio question
In-Reply-To: <A249BEBA7C3B427B992216FDD91D3942@TRGUY>
References: <A249BEBA7C3B427B992216FDD91D3942@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <20100731063633.1329A187647@autox.team.net>

Those are good compression numbers.  It's hard to tell things like 
oversized pistons or shaved head from the compression numbers.  If 
they did something like that they may have put in a different cam 
too, and different camshafts can affect the numbers quite a bit by 
the timing of the valve events.

The stock engine is quite torquey.

Tony Drews

At 03:44 PM 7/30/2010, James Henningsen wrote:
>Thanks again for all the reponses on the poweder coating of the steel wheels.
>I had the ten year old tires taken off today, ready to go to the bead blaster
>and found out the rims are TR3 (4 inch width and not 4 1/2).  So if anyone
>needs 4 inch rims, I have four good ones. I still can't believe there were
>P205/75/15s on those 4 inch rims.
>
>The compression readings on my "new" 62 TR4 are 185, 199, 196, 195.  No
>history on the motor except it had a new cam and rocker arm assembly
>installed.  Might have been more but no record and no access to prev owner.
>This car was off the road for almost four years sitting outside.  Got it
>running and it runs well!  How are these numbers compared to fresh engine,
>shaved head for modified use etc.  They seem high to me, but my comparison
>point is a modified TR6 engine and those run mid 170s for a fresh engine.
>Thanks,
>Jim Henningsen
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jul 31 04:02:30 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 06:02:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
Message-ID: <28af.315c67d5.39854eb6@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/30/2010 5:16:56 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: 
> Thus, I stand corrected for my inappropriate use of the term "notorious".
> Famous it is. 

Might I suggest "Iconic?"

Dave

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 31 05:15:17 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 04:15:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas  generator
Message-ID: <310668.13198.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi List & Bob!
 
Since I have received 2 TRIUMPH Digest without a reply, then I'm sending this
again for an answer to my 1st post:
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:15:39 -0400
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas  generator

If I remember correctly, the way I test a generator is to attach a + lead to
ground on the generator from the battery and - to both the small and large
spade connectors and if the generator spins like a motor it is good to go. I
am sure there are other ways to check out each circuit with a meter. I
believe
there is a diagnostic on the web somewhere to check the entire charging
circuit.
-  -  -  -
The reply sent & the question that I would like answered, PLEASE:
 
Hi Bob!

Is this set-up for a gen. that is normally (+) earth {Like TR4's} or (-) earth
{Like TR4A's}  when in the car?

Because if it's for (+) earth cars, then switching the leads would be for the
(-) earth cars?

I wouldn't want to try this & find that it shorted it out because of the
Gen.'s polarity was different.
-Cosmo Kramer

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Jul 31 05:58:51 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 07:58:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
In-Reply-To: <28af.315c67d5.39854eb6@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4C53D7BB.22219.2392F8E3@localhost>

On 31 Jul 2010 at 6:02, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> Might I suggest "Iconic?"

I can't picture that.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 31 07:31:55 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 06:31:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas  generator
In-Reply-To: <310668.13198.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <310668.13198.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <006101cb30b4$beaebbc0$0301a8c0@randall>

Bob wrote:
> If I remember correctly, the way I test a generator is to 
> attach a + lead to
> ground on the generator from the battery and - to both the 
> small and large
> spade connectors and if the generator spins like a motor it 
> is good to go. 

'Cosmo' asked:
> Is this set-up for a gen. that is normally (+) earth {Like 
> TR4's} or (-) earth
> {Like TR4A's}  when in the car?

It's easiest to match the test polarity to the car's polarity, since the
test will also polarize the generator.  But the test will work either way,
and you can always repolarize the generator later to match the car.

Randall

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jul 31 08:02:34 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 08:02:34 -0600
Subject: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas  generator
In-Reply-To: <310668.13198.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <310668.13198.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E33C1B3E79AF4083830EFF3F29B25094@bboffice>

Cosmo,

It shouldn't short the generator either way, + or -, I just tested my
re-built generator in this fashion and it worked fine.  If you test it in
the car, you will need to be sure to remove the fan-belt as the 'motor' is
not strong enough to turn the engine.  Since you are running DC voltage, it
will just reverse the spin of the generator.

BTW, A big thanks to Peter Connitt for sending me his old generator enabling
me to make one good one from his and mine...  On the road again today for
the first time in a few weeks!

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 5:15 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas generator

Hi List & Bob!
 
Since I have received 2 TRIUMPH Digest without a reply, then I'm sending
this again for an answer to my 1st post:
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:15:39 -0400
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss Video to test Lucas  generator

If I remember correctly, the way I test a generator is to attach a + lead to
ground on the generator from the battery and - to both the small and large
spade connectors and if the generator spins like a motor it is good to go. I
am sure there are other ways to check out each circuit with a meter. I
believe there is a diagnostic on the web somewhere to check the entire
charging circuit.
-  -  -  -
The reply sent & the question that I would like answered, PLEASE:
 
Hi Bob!

Is this set-up for a gen. that is normally (+) earth {Like TR4's} or (-)
earth {Like TR4A's}  when in the car?

Because if it's for (+) earth cars, then switching the leads would be for
the
(-) earth cars?

I wouldn't want to try this & find that it shorted it out because of the
Gen.'s polarity was different.
-Cosmo Kramer

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sat Jul 31 08:27:06 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 10:27:06 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 Compression and Wheels
Message-ID: <93c53.799398a2.39858cba@aol.com>

List,
In my experience, TR4 compression readings in the 185 to 200 psi range 
indicate some head milling has been done.   My own TR4A measured 210 after 
milling the head and I suspect my milling job was the second, making the 
compression too high.   For a few years, I used two head gaskets to reduce the 
compression to a point where reasonable ignition timing could be set without 
pinging.   Finally swapped heads.
Regarding the wheels:   the only 4.5" wide wheels I have ever seen on a 
Triumph were 60-spoke wires.
All TR3 and TR4 steel wheels were 4.0" wide.   Can't say that I've seen it 
all, but there's about 40 years' of tire changing to go by.   The 205/75R15 
tires were an absurd choice on such a narrow wheel, perhaps all that was 
available at the time.    Not looking for a p...g contest here, just sharing my 
experience.
George

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sat Jul 31 08:48:21 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 10:48:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] Powdercoating Wheels
Message-ID: <94b36.69e274d8.398591b5@aol.com>

Carl, et al,
Just checked with my powdercoater about the color he uses to match the 
original Dunlop wheel finish. He doesn't think it has an RAL number but he buys 
it from Cardinal Finishing, Number GRO-6.   He then sprays   CL-1.5 
semigloss clear on them.   This is also available from Cardinal.   Apparently 
Cardinal is a world-wide supplier of power finishes.   I was very appreciative of 
my guy's willingness to share this info with everyone.   Please have him do 
the job for you if you are anywhere near Palmyra, New York!
George

From bbick59 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 31 09:15:43 2010
From: bbick59 at gmail.com (bill bickerton)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 11:15:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch MC issue
Message-ID: <AANLkTina2vaKPDzh_HMNW3Cm+c+FpxcUDSiK=iMJ96VD@mail.gmail.com>

I first want to thank everyone for their suggestions and empathy relating to
my brake bleeding issues that I've been having. I think i have finally
overcome all the problems that i was experiencing, the pedal still feels a
bit mushy but maybe that's just DOT 5. I believe I've removed all air from
the system (bench bleeding seemed to do the trick, along with all the other
tips, i tried them all).

*NEW ISSUE*: brake & clutch MC's all installed and bled however, I've
noticed that there is about *3/4 of an inch travel between the clutch master
cylinder's push rod and the portioning valve inside the MC*. If i take my
thumb and push the rod forward until it just hits the valve i see that it is
perfectly aligned with the brake rod next to it. Also, when you're looking
at the pedals from inside the car you can clearly see that the clutch pedal
is closer to the driver than the brake pedal. I've looked all over to see if
i could find some place to adjust the pedal thus adjusting the push rod but
nothing was obvious to me however, I'm fairly new at working on Triumphs so
i may be missing something that is right in front of me. Once i have this
issue rectified i believe i will finally be ready to put the wheels back on
and drop the car and move on to the next unforeseen problem.

Thanks in advance for any guidance,
Bill Bickerton
64 TR4

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jul 31 14:28:27 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 16:28:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive
Message-ID: <93724.77f8e8db.3985e16b@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/31/2010 7:04:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> On 31 Jul 2010 at 6:02, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> 
> >Might I suggest "Iconic?"
> 
> I can't picture that.
> 
What?  It doesn't "click?"

Dave

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sat Jul 31 20:18:56 2010
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 21:18:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rock Island, Illinois Show
Message-ID: <A59FBF0893AD4A45ADED2079E2265A45@0817C93C637E473>

Can someone provide me with the details for the show in RI on the weekend of
August 7th?

Thanks

Ken Gano

From davidt at opentext.com  Sat Jul 31 20:25:35 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 22:25:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr6 rims for a tr3a
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B018FB745@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

Evening all

I have a line on some local '71 tr6 rims etc.  Are these desirable for a
tr3a?  They currently have 185-75R15's mounted

Thanks
David
'59 tr3a
'74 spitsix

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Jul 31 22:23:09 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:23:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rock Island, Illinois Show
In-Reply-To: <A59FBF0893AD4A45ADED2079E2265A45@0817C93C637E473>
References: <A59FBF0893AD4A45ADED2079E2265A45@0817C93C637E473>
Message-ID: <20100801042223.B624C18764B@autox.team.net>

This is the closest thing I could find...

http://qcbac.home.mchsi.com/autofest2010.htm

- Tony Drews

At 09:18 PM 7/31/2010, Ken Gano, home PC wrote:
>Can someone provide me with the details for the show in RI on the weekend of
>August 7th?
>
>Thanks
>
>Ken Gano
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Jul 31 22:30:15 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 00:30:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Shroud question
In-Reply-To: <199347.99573.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <199347.99573.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <919B40D5C4A34724910EE50CDDB95D91@CarlPC>

I am missing the piece that goes across the top of the radiator.   Could 
someone please measure the overall length; the height at each end and at the 
center.   I think it mirrors the top of the radiator, but not 100% sure.

Thanks
Carl
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(Photos updated 5/18/10)