From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Jan 1 10:13:45 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 09:13:45 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 Head Lamp Pigtail Message-ID: <176264.14990.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> One of the headlamp pigtails on my TR6 is rally hacked (DPO = wire nuts). I soldered the wires together, but am not as thrilled as I would like to be with the job. MOSS & TRF don't sell new replacement TR6 pigtails (longer than a TR3's, which they do have). Does anyone have a source for the correct new pigtails or have a good condition TR6 pigtail that they would part with? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Jan 1 10:15:59 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 09:15:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 Gas Filler Cap Seal Message-ID: <809438.98467.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> My 74 TR6 has a rubber seal on the inside of the gas cap. It presses on to the center and kind of looks like a rubber mushroom. MOSS & TRF don't sell replacements for this. Does anyone have a source for new ones? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Jan 1 11:13:32 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 13:13:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Head Lamp Pigtail In-Reply-To: <176264.14990.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <176264.14990.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201001011313.32969.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 01 January 2010 12:13:45 pm William Brewer wrote: > One of the headlamp pigtails on my TR6 is rally hacked (DPO = wire > nuts). I soldered the wires together, but am not as thrilled as I would > like to be with the job. MOSS & TRF don't sell new replacement TR6 > pigtails (longer than a TR3's, which they do have). Does anyone have a > source for the correct new pigtails or have a good condition TR6 pigtail > that they would part with? TIA, > Bill in Tehachapi Bill, You might want to give Matt Bakes a call at British Wiring. http://www.britishwiring.com/ Bob From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Jan 1 12:03:07 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 12:03:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gasket for Filter King? In-Reply-To: <330679.27039.qm@web80403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <330679.27039.qm@web80403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks Jay that sounds like what I'm looking for. The bowl is 2 inches in diameter so I'll give it a try. Many on the list helpfully suggested cutting a gasket from various materials but since this is a fairly precision fit up into a groove where the bowl must fit and compress the gasket equally I don't think I'd be able to cut a good enough gasket to make a reliable seal. I've cut a few other gaskets and I'm not very good at cutting even non- precision gaskets. They always look pretty ragged even the ones that work. This would involve cutting a 2 inch round gasket thats only about 1/8 inch wide all the way around which is beyond my cutting ability. Hence my joy in hearing there's a potential ready made solution. I mounted the Filter King on the passenger side on the fender and above the carbon canister. Its away from the engine heat as much as possible which is an important consideration. I wanted it between the fuel pump and the carbs mostly for its ability to regulate fuel pressure since I already had an inline filter between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. I was getting 3-4 psi at the fuel line right before the carbs and it was causing what I call a "hunting idle" problem...up and down rpms...and it solved that problem nicely. I discovered that there was a fuel pulse by watching the Colortune flame go to blue whenever the rpms blipped. By setting the regulator on the Filter King closer to 1-2 psi I got a smoother idle. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Dec 31, 2009, at 12:37 PM, Jay Holekamp wrote: > Greetings Bud, > > If the diameter of the bowl of the 'filter king' is the same as the > diameter of the sediment bowl on a std AC fuel pump found on a TR4 > (2 inches) NAPA part #730-9510 will work. This gasket is good > quality rubber and provides a better seal than a cork gasket. > > Best wishes for the New Year. > > Jay > > '64 Tiumph TR4 since '67 From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Jan 1 12:07:03 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:07:03 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] TR6 Gas Filler Cap Seal Message-ID: <172989542.196556.1262372823705.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net> Try nic_cj on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR6-TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-GAS-CAP-SEAL-71-80_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2ea02479c3QQitemZ200255240643QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Craig 72 TR6 On Jan 1, 2010, William Brewer wrote: My 74 TR6 has a rubber seal on the inside of the gas cap. It presses on to the center and kind of looks like a rubber mushroom. MOSS & TRF don't sell replacements for this. Does anyone have a source for new ones? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Jan 1 17:53:05 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 19:53:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Gas Filler Cap Seal References: <809438.98467.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I see someone selling them on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR6-TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-GAS-CAP-SEAL-71-80_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c47f4430bQQitemZ190185751307QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 12:15 PM Subject: [TR] TR6 Gas Filler Cap Seal > My 74 TR6 has a rubber seal on the inside of the gas cap. It presses > on > to the center and kind of looks like a rubber mushroom. MOSS & TRF don't > sell > replacements for this. Does anyone have a source for new ones? TIA, > Bill in Tehachapi > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 2 06:47:51 2010 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 05:47:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 Gas Filler Cap Seal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <192951.30450.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Bill- TRF absolutely sells this part. It is p/n 725220. Look in their blue book, Plate AP, under AP11. It isn't illustrated, but it is listed. Hurry and order! They have free shipping this weekend on orders over $75! Cheers- Chad in Tulsa ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 09:15:59 -0800 (PST) From: William Brewer Subject: [TR] TR6 Gas Filler Cap Seal To: Triumphs Message-ID: <809438.98467.qm at web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" My 74 TR6 has a rubber seal on the inside of the gas cap. It presses on to the center and kind of looks like a rubber mushroom. MOSS & TRF don't sell replacements for this. Does anyone have a source for new ones? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sat Jan 2 07:04:43 2010 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sat, 02 Jan 2010 09:04:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Gas Filler Cap Seal In-Reply-To: <172989542.196556.1262372823705.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net> References: <172989542.196556.1262372823705.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <4B3F527B.9030904@earthlink.net> Very cool. I've needed one of these for years. Has anyone bought one yet and can attest to fit and quality? Joe 72 TR6 thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Try nic_cj on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR6-TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-GAS-CAP-SEAL-71-80_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2ea02479c3QQitemZ200255240643QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories > > Craig > 72 TR6 > > On Jan 1, 2010, William Brewer wrote: > > My 74 TR6 has a rubber seal on the inside of the gas cap. It presses on > to the center and kind of looks like a rubber mushroom. MOSS & TRF don't sell > replacements for this. Does anyone have a source for new ones? TIA, > Bill in Tehachapi > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Jan 2 08:23:48 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 10:23:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash In-Reply-To: References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C242527199C2E1D@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> Message-ID: <6fa72a771001020723o7ced8c1er72fee4d3f58a69c8@mail.gmail.com> I think I had to shorten the brackets on a few of the guages to accomodate the additinoal thickness of the dash. Other than that, no issues. I hated to drill and screw into my dash, but when or if I go back to metal, a quick weld and hit with the grinder ought to fix it. Chris 63 TR4 54 Tr2 From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Jan 2 09:43:29 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 16:43:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Moss Winter 2010 catalog In-Reply-To: <766502352.7685731262450368414.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1297791910.7686771262450609703.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Just got my British Motoring catalog/magazine from Moss Motors. Flipped over to page 16 in the article on TR4 & 4A Buyers Guide the picture on page 18 of the red TR4 with my wife at the wheel. It was taken at the SE regional VTR in Lake City, Florida nine or ten years ago. The car is down now for a rebuild, but it was great to see. Have a great New Year. Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Jan 2 10:54:47 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 12:54:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6fa72a771001020954y2ba13671n75af0a81c9da2143@mail.gmail.com> I was pretty lucky. I got my dash from TRF and the idiot lights lined up perfectly. My dash had the screw holes predrilled and countersunk - so all I had to do is line up the dash - drill the pilot holes through the metal dash - and put the screws in. Could not have been simpler. I did have to monkey with the glove box a bit. Chris 63 TR4 From tr6parts at charter.net Sat Jan 2 10:59:40 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 12:59:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Moss Winter 2010 catalog References: <1297791910.7686771262450609703.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Doesn't seem that long ago. Happy New Year, Al ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Triumphs" Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:43 AM Subject: [TR] Moss Winter 2010 catalog > Just got my British Motoring catalog/magazine from Moss Motors. Flipped > over to page 16 in the article on TR4 & 4A Buyers Guide the picture on > page 18 of the red TR4 with my wife at the wheel. It was taken at the SE > regional VTR in Lake City, Florida nine or ten years ago. The car is down > now for a rebuild, but it was great to see. > Have a great New Year. > Tom > 60 TR3A > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 73 Stag > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From davem.w at tiscali.co.uk Sat Jan 2 16:32:14 2010 From: davem.w at tiscali.co.uk (David Wilkinson) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 23:32:14 -0000 Subject: [TR] wishbone bushes Message-ID: <1AE714D1125C46B794D0C628CA67BCFA@davew> Hi I know this is a heavily US populated list so apologies up front for any Brit terminology that doesn't cross the atlantic too well. I'm currently trying to get a 1969 GT6 mk2 back on the road. The rear end is currently dismantled for brake work and replacing a cracked differential. Whilst doing this I'm looking to replace any obviously worn items. The inner wishbone bushes are worn and seem a fairly simple job to replace (I've got the use of a press). However, how easy a job is replacing the outer wishbone bushes? By the looks of it I could get the tube out using the press but is getting the bushes out within the reach of an amateur? thanks Dave. [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 2 18:22:14 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 17:22:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 Message-ID: <191938.55270.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> hi Guys 4 years ago when i was driving my TR3 i don't recall the amp-meter bouncing around between positive charge and zero. as you will guess it like to do that now. any thoughts? history is: in 600 miles burned out one generator replaced the brand new control box with the old one. thanks Frank From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 2 22:08:50 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 21:08:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 In-Reply-To: <191938.55270.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <13.F6.07989.266204B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > 4 years ago when i was driving my TR3 i don't recall the > amp-meter bouncing around between positive charge and zero. > as you will guess it like to do that now. any thoughts? Although it will bounce around under some very specific circumstances (generator output just slightly more than the regulator wants it to be), changing engine rpm should make the bounce disappear instantly. I would be looking for a bad connection anywhere in the charging circuit; particularly the ground strap from the engine to the frame, and the strap from the battery to the body. Paint does NOT conduct, so the where the battery strap mounts to the body is a common problem spot on a freshly repainted car. One way to deal with that problem is to put a new "external star" type lockwasher between the strap & the body (the points of the lockwasher will cut through the paint to make connection). Also check both wires from the control box to the generator, particularly near the generator where engine heat tends to bake the insulation. An intermittent short between the wires will also make the ammeter dance. Don't forget that the ammeter & the wires to it are part of the charging circuit. Don't recall who now, but someone reported an intermittent ammeter causing similar symptoms. Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 2 22:44:31 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 21:44:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 In-Reply-To: <2CF9C1E1-4C27-4B32-8D65-A4856D3A0BF3@columbus.rr.com> References: <191938.55270.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <2CF9C1E1-4C27-4B32-8D65-A4856D3A0BF3@columbus.rr.com> Message-ID: <500328.19365.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> thanks Tom im not sure if i have a problem or just a coincidence. my car is a fresh (500 mile) renovation. at about 250 miles the generator died. buddy Paul had given me 2 spares so i just changed it out. then the amp-meter started to jump about. sometimes +30A others -15A. then about a week ago it stopped jumping about and read just a tad less than zero amps. when i ran it in the dark it discharged the battery and did show negative amps on the gage. so i now changed out my control box and its giving charge again. the control box i changed out was brand new. the amp-meter is still a little jumpy, but every thing is running good. the generator gives out +/-30 volts and has about 6 ohms resistance. so i think its OK. im just curious if your amp-meter likes to "jump" around a little. Frank ________________________________ From: Tom Householder To: Frank Fisher Sent: Sat, January 2, 2010 7:53:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 not sure what your problem is however I can say that My TR2 with 7k original miles lot an amp meter.. the solder joints went bad I simply re-soldered the shunt and put it back in tom On Jan 2, 2010, at 8:22 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > hi Guys > 4 years ago when i was driving my TR3 i don't recall the amp-meter bouncing around between positive charge and zero. as you will guess it like to do that now. any thoughts? > history is: > in 600 miles > burned out one generator > replaced the brand new control box with the old one. > thanks > Frank > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as trhouse at columbus.rr.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jan 3 07:28:38 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 09:28:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 In-Reply-To: <191938.55270.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <191938.55270.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201001030928.38734.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 02 January 2010 08:22:14 pm Frank Fisher wrote: > hi Guys > 4 years ago when i was driving my TR3 i don't recall the amp-meter bouncing > around between positive charge and zero. as you will guess it like to do > that now. any thoughts? history is: > in 600 miles > burned out one generator > replaced the brand new control box with the old one. > thanks > Frank > Frank, Something similar happened to my TR4 a few years back. I was driving with my future son in law down the highway and we got it up to 70 and I noticed the amp-meter pegged 30+. I have never seen that before, usually when they go, it was - whatever the system was drawing on the battery. When we got hope about 10 minutes later, I popped the hood and tried to test the connections on the generator and it was too hot to touch. I figured it was fried so I waited and swapped in a spare. The car has run just fine since that time. No problems when lights are on, wipers etc. I took the faulty generator apart and noticed that the solder in the computator (sp) was all melted and it had shorted out. I used the Lucas diagnostic manual sent to me by Randall to detect a short somewhere which caused the high + reading. I don't know what was the original cause. As far as I know, the only electrical component that was operating at the time was the coil and gas tank sensor. Bob From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 3 07:38:59 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 07:38:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 In-Reply-To: <500328.19365.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <191938.55270.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><2CF9C1E1-4C27-4B32-8D65-A4856D3A0BF3@columbus.rr.com> <500328.19365.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <31247CD58F364F4A88DFE188B64F1329@bboffice> Frank, Have you tried another amp meter, temporarily, to see if it acts the same way? It sounds like you have tested everything else and the meter may be just a little loose inside, assuming you have re-checked the connections as Tom as suggested. (BTW, check all the connections that affect the amp meter in addition to the back of the gauge itself.) Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 10:45 PM To: Tom Householder Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 thanks Tom im not sure if i have a problem or just a coincidence. my car is a fresh (500 mile) renovation. at about 250 miles the generator died. buddy Paul had given me 2 spares so i just changed it out. then the amp-meter started to jump about. sometimes +30A others -15A. then about a week ago it stopped jumping about and read just a tad less than zero amps. when i ran it in the dark it discharged the battery and did show negative amps on the gage. so i now changed out my control box and its giving charge again. the control box i changed out was brand new. the amp-meter is still a little jumpy, but every thing is running good. the generator gives out +/-30 volts and has about 6 ohms resistance. so i think its OK. im just curious if your amp-meter likes to "jump" around a little. Frank ________________________________ From: Tom Householder To: Frank Fisher Sent: Sat, January 2, 2010 7:53:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 not sure what your problem is however I can say that My TR2 with 7k original miles lot an amp meter.. the solder joints went bad I simply re-soldered the shunt and put it back in tom On Jan 2, 2010, at 8:22 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > hi Guys > 4 years ago when i was driving my TR3 i don't recall the amp-meter bouncing around between positive charge and zero. as you will guess it like to do that now. any thoughts? > history is: > in 600 miles > burned out one generator > replaced the brand new control box with the old one. > thanks > Frank > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as trhouse at columbus.rr.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Jan 3 08:49:00 2010 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 10:49:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 In-Reply-To: <13.F6.07989.266204B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <191938.55270.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <13.F6.07989.266204B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: It was me and it was another TR problem corrected by a single course of Randalltherapy. Happy New Year to all Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 12:09 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 > 4 years ago when i was driving my TR3 i don't recall the > amp-meter bouncing around between positive charge and zero. > as you will guess it like to do that now. any thoughts? Although it will bounce around under some very specific circumstances (generator output just slightly more than the regulator wants it to be), changing engine rpm should make the bounce disappear instantly. I would be looking for a bad connection anywhere in the charging circuit; particularly the ground strap from the engine to the frame, and the strap from the battery to the body. Paint does NOT conduct, so the where the battery strap mounts to the body is a common problem spot on a freshly repainted car. One way to deal with that problem is to put a new "external star" type lockwasher between the strap & the body (the points of the lockwasher will cut through the paint to make connection). Also check both wires from the control box to the generator, particularly near the generator where engine heat tends to bake the insulation. An intermittent short between the wires will also make the ammeter dance. Don't forget that the ammeter & the wires to it are part of the charging circuit. Don't recall who now, but someone reported an intermittent ammeter causing similar symptoms. Randall Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Jan 3 09:36:09 2010 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 16:36:09 +0000 Subject: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 In-Reply-To: <191938.55270.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <191938.55270.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Loose connection. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Jan 3 09:54:02 2010 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 16:54:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 In-Reply-To: <31247CD58F364F4A88DFE188B64F1329@bboffice> References: <191938.55270.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><2CF9C1E1-4C27-4B32-8D65-A4856D3A0BF3@columbus.rr.com>, <500328.19365.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>, <31247CD58F364F4A88DFE188B64F1329@bboffice> Message-ID: I will elaborate a little further. This may not be relevant to original TR3s since my car has been rewired with a non-original loom. A ground wire is connected to the center post on the back of my amp meter. I had problems with the amp meter lighting up intermitantly when I turned on the dash lights. I found that the center post the ground wire was attached to had some oxidation at it's base. Once I cleaned off the oxidation the amp meter light worked great. Best regards, Tom > From: wbeech at flash.net > To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 07:38:59 -0700 > Subject: Re: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 > > Frank, > Have you tried another amp meter, temporarily, to see if it acts the same > way? It sounds like you have tested everything else and the meter may be > just a little loose inside, assuming you have re-checked the connections as > Tom as suggested. (BTW, check all the connections that affect the amp meter > in addition to the back of the gauge itself.) > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher > Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 10:45 PM > To: Tom Householder > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 > > thanks Tom > im not sure if i have a problem or just a coincidence. > my car is > a fresh (500 mile) renovation. > at about 250 miles the generator died. buddy Paul had given me 2 spares so i > just changed it out. > then the amp-meter > started to jump about. sometimes +30A others -15A. > then about a week ago it > stopped jumping about and read just a tad less than zero amps. when i ran it > in the dark it discharged the battery and did show negative amps on the > gage. > so i now changed out my control box and its giving charge again. the control > box i changed out was brand new. > the amp-meter is still a little jumpy, but every thing is running good. > the generator gives out +/-30 volts and has about > 6 ohms resistance. so i think its OK. > im just curious if your amp-meter likes > to "jump" around a little. > Frank > > > ________________________________ > From: Tom > Householder > To: Frank Fisher > Sent: Sat, January 2, 2010 7:53:26 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] amp-meter > readings--TR3 > > not sure what your problem is however I can say that My TR2 with 7k original > miles lot an amp meter.. the solder joints went bad > > I simply > re-soldered the shunt and put it back in > > tom > > On Jan 2, 2010, at 8:22 PM, > Frank Fisher wrote: > > > hi Guys > > 4 years ago when i was driving my TR3 i don't > recall the amp-meter bouncing around between positive charge and zero. as > you will guess it like to do that now. any thoughts? > > history is: > > in 600 miles > > burned out one generator > > replaced the brand new control box with the old > one. > > thanks > > Frank > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Suggested annual > donation $11.47 > > > > > > You are subscribed as trhouse at columbus.rr.com > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 3 12:38:31 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 11:38:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 In-Reply-To: <201001030928.38734.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <52.BC.08392.732F04B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > I was driving with my future son in law down the highway and > we got it up to > 70 and I noticed the amp-meter pegged 30+. Just for future reference; if that happens again to anyone, I would suggest pulling over immediately and disconnecting/disabling the generator. The generator is still working at that point, so it may be OK or just a simple repair job required; but putting out 30+ amps will quickly fry it (as Bob learned the hard way) beyond reasonable repair. It's only happened to me once, the problem proved to be stuck contacts on the regulator relay. A couple of passes with a contact burnishing tool (yes, I do carry one in my on-board tool kit) got it working again until I was able to source a replacement control box. Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 16:50:57 2010 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 16:50:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] amp-meter readings--TR3 In-Reply-To: <52.BC.08392.732F04B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <201001030928.38734.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <52.BC.08392.732F04B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af1001031550p48a66119k6f509de7e09a88c2@mail.gmail.com> On 1/3/10, Randall wrote: > > It's only happened to me once, the problem proved to be stuck contacts on > the regulator relay. So long as we're offering warnings, I'll add: stuck contacts can also manifest themselves as the red light staying on after the engine is switched off. If you were to look under the bonnet at that moment you would find the generator has become a motor and it is trying to turn over the engine. It can't keep that up for long. For a quick remedy I restarted the engine and switched it off again, likely the jolt caused the contacts to release. For a permanent solution some cleaning and adjustment was needed. Geo From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Sun Jan 3 21:43:32 2010 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Sun, 03 Jan 2010 21:43:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph TransAm Stag - Uncle Jack is FOR SALE!! Message-ID: <4B4171F4.7090600@triumphstagclub.org> Yes, the TTA Stag - a.k.a. "uncle jack" is FOR SALE!! Greetings All, The LONG awaited auction for the Triumph Trans AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 Triumph Stag known as "uncle jack", is pending activation FOR SALE on eBay!! PLEASE TELL EVERYONE, EMAIL EVERYONE, CALL ANY INTERESTED PARTY!! Email everyone in your clubs!! Remember, this is FOR CHARITY!!! The Auction will become Active on Monday, 4 January 2010 at 1:00 am Pacific Time - about 9 am GMT Go to eBay [www.ebay.com] and enter item Number 250558126708 or click on this link for eBay details http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250558126708 Good Luck, Happy Bidding!! Cheers! -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA North American Drive Coordinator 2009 210 Bass Circle Lafayette, Colorado 80026-1811 USA 303-665-6040 voice and mailbox #6 303-817-8559 cell 303-665-7820 fax www.triumphtransamerica.org Skype,Twitter,FaceBook: StagByTriumph From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Mon Jan 4 09:16:43 2010 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 08:16:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] Gasket for Filter King Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F108F6EAD@kb1.mossmotors.com> Bud Rolofson asked: >I've searched but can't find a replacement gasket (for the bowl to the >housing) for this gas filter/regulator. >I'm hoping Peter A. with Moss reads this and can provide some >answers. OK, here's the deal. We have contacted manufacturer in UK, they will supply the gasket separately. Seemed silly, but they had to be convinced. At any rate I have added a new Moss number, 377-437, for just the bowl gasket. I am hoping to have them in about 4-6 weeks. As a point of reference, our units are specified to come with glass bowls. Thanks for the heads up. Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6 From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jan 4 11:53:35 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 11:53:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gasket for Filter King In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F108F6EAD@kb1.mossmotors.com> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F108F6EAD@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <6DA32190-53D8-420F-A26F-E700A579C653@comcast.net> Excellent. Thanks Peter. I appreciate the quick action and response. My bowl is plastic and I got it from Moss. Can I get a glass bowl? Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jan 4, 2010, at 9:16 AM, Arakelian, Peter wrote: > Bud Rolofson asked: >> I've searched but can't find a replacement gasket (for the bowl to >> the > >> housing) for this gas filter/regulator. > >> I'm hoping Peter A. with Moss reads this and can provide some >> answers. > > > OK, here's the deal. We have contacted manufacturer in UK, they will > supply the gasket separately. Seemed silly, but they had to be > convinced. > At any rate I have added a new Moss number, 377-437, for just the bowl > gasket. I am hoping to have them in about 4-6 weeks. > As a point of reference, our units are specified to come with glass > bowls. > > Thanks for the heads up. > > Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6 > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From thomas309 at aol.com Mon Jan 4 19:47:03 2010 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 21:47:03 EST Subject: [TR] Check out Triumph TR4,TR6 ,MG ?Top Message-ID: <1d404.476359f1.38740227@aol.com> As seen on craigslist. Not mine and NFI. Tom _http://providence.craigslist.org/pts/1514240928.html_ (http://providence.craigslist.org/pts/1514240928.html) From thomas309 at aol.com Mon Jan 4 20:13:02 2010 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 22:13:02 EST Subject: [TR] Check out TRiumph TR3 Parts Message-ID: <1d83b.1bef5e69.3874083e@aol.com> Thought someone might be interested. NFI _http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/1499784937.html_ (http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/1499784937.html) From spitlist at cox.net Mon Jan 4 20:22:46 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 20:22:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Check out Triumph TR4,TR6 ,MG ?Top In-Reply-To: <1d404.476359f1.38740227@aol.com> References: <1d404.476359f1.38740227@aol.com> Message-ID: Looking at the shape of the cutout for the window glass and the locations of the securing bolts, I am guessing Late Spitfire. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thomas309 at aol.com Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 7:47 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Check out Triumph TR4,TR6 ,MG ?Top As seen on craigslist. Not mine and NFI. Tom _http://providence.craigslist.org/pts/1514240928.html_ (http://providence.craigslist.org/pts/1514240928.html) Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From cwnfot at gmail.com Tue Jan 5 08:42:16 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 10:42:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Check out Triumph TR4,TR6 ,MG ?Top In-Reply-To: References: <1d404.476359f1.38740227@aol.com> Message-ID: <005201ca8e1d$a8efbd00$facf3700$@com> I don't think it's Spitfire, the bottom edge that mates to the body is all same plain, I would expect some curve back there... perhaps..? Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Jan 5 08:44:29 2010 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 15:44:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] Check out TRiumph TR3 Parts In-Reply-To: <1d83b.1bef5e69.3874083e@aol.com> References: <1d83b.1bef5e69.3874083e@aol.com> Message-ID: There are two items in this photo I do not recognize. Could someone please identify them for me. They are the two chrome pieces with four bolt holes, and what appears to be a spring on the side. I circled there area in red. Thanks. Best regards, Tom > From: thomas309 at aol.com > Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 22:13:02 -0500 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Check out TRiumph TR3 Parts > > Thought someone might be interested. NFI > > _http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/1499784937.html_ > (http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/1499784937.html) > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 5 10:00:04 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 09:00:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] Check out TRiumph TR3 Parts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > They are the two chrome pieces with > four bolt holes, > and what appears to be a spring on the side. They look to be wedge-type side curtain mounting brackets as used on earlier TR3s; but mine don't have the spring on the side. There's a switch in there too that doesn't belong to a TR3, so perhaps the brackets are from something else (or maybe TR3s had more than one style). > I circled there area in red. Alas, can't send images through the list. Post it on Photobucket or similar. Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Jan 5 10:24:19 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 09:24:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] Check out TRiumph TR3 Parts In-Reply-To: References: <1d83b.1bef5e69.3874083e@aol.com> Message-ID: Wedge mount side curtain brackets for early TR3 for sure, TR2? >There are two items in this photo I do not recognize. Could someone please >identify them for me. They are the two chrome pieces with four bolt holes, >and what appears to be a spring on the side. I circled there area in red. >Thanks. > >Best regards, >Tom > -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Jan 5 10:31:01 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 17:31:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Check out TRiumph TR3 Parts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <371180692.8878661262712661063.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I think they are for the wedge type side curtains. They screw to the door - only two of four present. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: thomas309 at aol.com, triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2010 10:44:29 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] Check out TRiumph TR3 Parts There are two items in this photo I do not recognize. Could someone please identify them for me. They are the two chrome pieces with four bolt holes, and what appears to be a spring on the side. I circled there area in red. Thanks. Best regards, Tom From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Jan 5 10:45:35 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 05 Jan 2010 12:45:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Check out TRiumph TR3 Parts In-Reply-To: References: <1d83b.1bef5e69.3874083e@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CC5C4604BC868D-4104-6DC5@webmail-d090.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: tom white There are two items in this photo I do not recognize. Could someone please identify them for me. They are the two chrome pieces with four bolt holes, and what appears to be a spring on the side. ==AM== Tom, I think those are "wedge-style" side curtain mounts. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us = From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jan 5 11:39:02 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 05 Jan 2010 11:39:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Check out TRiumph TR3 Parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B438746.7060105@bradakis.com> > Alas, can't send images through the list. Post it on Photobucket or > similar. > > Or post a message on the triumph forum at http://www.team.net/forums mjb. From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 09:04:44 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 06 Jan 2010 08:04:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] Limited slip diff group buy Message-ID: <4B44B49C.1010706@gmail.com> I'm writing this for Ken Galanders of British Frame & engine ( www.britishframeandengine.com ) as his computer has been acting up recently. Ken wants to know if there is enough interest in a group purchase of limited slip differentials to get a quantity discount. Please email him directly ( bfeken at copper.net ) if you are interested in a January purchase and are willing to put an estimated 50% down on a preorder. ------- The patent for the highly regarded Salisbury limited slip differential has expired and a company called TRAN-X has taken the Salisbury design, improved upon it and is offering new higher quality limited slips for less than the older Salisbury's sold for. We are talking about a better diff for less money. from their web site: "Manufactured and built by Tran-X the Salisbury English LSD has been used in every form of Motorsport over the years. FIA approved this is arguably the most popular differential in Motorsport over the last 20 years and its versatile appeal means we can set your LSD up to suit your application perfectly. We have further improved the design by eliminating the need for cross pins, which can be damaged if a half shaft fails inflicting major damage to the entire LSD. This new design allows the planet gears to actually run in ramp angle block meaning the LSD performs to the same high level but removes the need for costly rebuilds if a half shaft fails." If you are seriously interested in a high quality limited slip at a good price, please contact Ken directly bfeken at copper.net Teriann From tdskip at yahoo.com Wed Jan 6 12:10:39 2010 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 11:10:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] How much weight off a TR4a flywheel is recommended Message-ID: <282319.80737.qm@web55608.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Hi folks - is there a well proven safe amount to take off an otherwisw stock TR4a flywheel for street use. Engine is being rebuilt so now would seem to be the time. Thanks! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 6 15:50:46 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 14:50:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] How much weight off a TR4a flywheel is recommended In-Reply-To: <282319.80737.qm@web55608.mail.re4.yahoo.com> References: <282319.80737.qm@web55608.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <244F4019AA89459A9D54301675E167F7@jdnet.deere.com> I suspect the answer is "it depends", Tom. Where the weight is taken off matters at least as much as how much weight. My suggestion would be to get one of Joe A's CNC steel flywheels, or ship yours to him for lightening. -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jan 6 16:27:10 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 18:27:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 on HD Theater Message-ID: <201001061827.10711.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Did anyone else catch the green 63 TR4 last night on Classic Cars? It was a 63 with wire wheels and the Targa top. They showed the engine for a bit and it looked to have the later TR4A air filters and breather through the valve cover. Couldn't tell what the carbs were. Any way nice to see a Triumph on TV. Bob From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 17:10:52 2010 From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 16:10:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] Head gasket repair question Message-ID: <000301ca8f2d$e17f3130$a47d9390$@com> I am finishing up a head gasket repair. When it blew, water mixed with the oil. I drained all the fluids when I did the head rebuild. Now I am putting everything back together I am wondering if I should do more than just replacing the oil and filter. Is there a problem having a some possible residue of water mixing with the new oil? I was thinking of changing the oil and filter again when I retorque the head after a few hundred miles. Does that make any sense? Once again, thanks for all the great advice. Roger Wilson '60 TR3A From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 6 18:16:53 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 18:16:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head gasket repair question In-Reply-To: <000301ca8f2d$e17f3130$a47d9390$@com> References: <000301ca8f2d$e17f3130$a47d9390$@com> Message-ID: Assuming that you have done a good thorough job of cleaning/clearing the block of all the contaminated oil I would change the oil and filter at 100 miles. Odds are that what little water residue may be left will cook-out when the oil is at full operating temperature but the price of an early oil change is cheap insurance. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Wilson Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 5:11 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Head gasket repair question I am finishing up a head gasket repair. When it blew, water mixed with the oil. I drained all the fluids when I did the head rebuild. Now I am putting everything back together I am wondering if I should do more than just replacing the oil and filter. Is there a problem having a some possible residue of water mixing with the new oil? I was thinking of changing the oil and filter again when I retorque the head after a few hundred miles. Does that make any sense? Once again, thanks for all the great advice. Roger Wilson '60 TR3A Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 6 18:18:12 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 17:18:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] Head gasket repair question In-Reply-To: <000301ca8f2d$e17f3130$a47d9390$@com> Message-ID: <8C.2A.17767.456354B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Now I am putting > everything back together I am wondering if I should do more than just > replacing the oil and filter. No need, IMO. Any residual water will quickly evaporate when the engine is driven. Randall From mark at bradakis.com Wed Jan 6 18:38:47 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 06 Jan 2010 18:38:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head gasket repair question In-Reply-To: <000301ca8f2d$e17f3130$a47d9390$@com> References: <000301ca8f2d$e17f3130$a47d9390$@com> Message-ID: <4B453B27.8070402@bradakis.com> Assuming the repair went well, you should be fine with your plan. Once the engine is fired up and gets to operating temperature, any residual water in the oil passages will be boiled out. There shouldn't be enough left to cause any concern about inadequate lubrication. But do change the oil and filter fairly soon, like the few hundred miles you mentioned. mjb. From tbe749 at aol.com Thu Jan 7 06:17:26 2010 From: tbe749 at aol.com (tbe749 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 07 Jan 2010 08:17:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 on HD Theater In-Reply-To: <201001061827.10711.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201001061827.10711.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <8CC5DB2E43409BB-1FF0-14022@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com> Saw it. I'm glad I'm so short so my head doesn't stick up over the front windscreen like the dude driving it. Seem to enjoy it regardless and had some good things to say. Tom -----Original Message----- From: Bob To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Jan 6, 2010 6:27 pm Subject: [TR] TR4 on HD Theater Did anyone else catch the green 63 TR4 last night on Classic Cars? It was a 63 with wire wheels and the Targa top. They showed the engine for a bit and it looked to have the later TR4A air ilters and breather through the valve cover. Couldn't tell what the carbs ere. Any way nice to see a Triumph on TV. Bob Suggested annual donation $11.47 ou are subscribed as tbe749 at aol.com Triumphs at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Jan 7 17:33:40 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 19:33:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brew Swap Message-ID: OK all you beer connoisseurs, in case you haven't seen it on the updated schedule for Octobers VTR event at Jekyll Island we have worked in a "Marty's Brew Swap 2" for Monday evening. Those of you who had a chance to attend "Marty's Brew Swap 1" at the 2008 Ypsilanti convention will recall the informal gathering of suds-heads that brought and shared their favorite micro-brew from their part of the country as well as numerous home-brews produced by fellow members. We will follow a similar format with the addition of some sort of judged event for the home brewed elixirs. I am posting this far in advance so you home brewers have a chance to make up your favorite batch or try a couple of new ones in advance of the convention. Start your brewing! http://vtr2010.org/Schedule.php Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390707/direct/01/ From paulwillou at socal.rr.com Thu Jan 7 18:40:12 2010 From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 17:40:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator light on Message-ID: <6803DA9174E94A53930F02EE587D1A89@paulal73q2sjay> Tired of having no gauge lights in my 1964 TR4, last night I bypassed the rheostat by jumping the red wire to the red/white stripe wires. It worked great and I have bright gauge lights now. But after 5 miles of driving at night, the red charging system warning light came on. I was able to complete my trip to work, and drive back home later, about 20 miles. The red light stayed on the whole time, even after turning off the car and starting again, twice. Fan belt seems ok. Battery voltage measured 12.7 when I got home. While driving, the Ammeter seemed pretty close to zero with the lights off. The needle went about 1/3 the way to the minus side with the headlights on. About half that with only the paring lights and interior lights. Did I mess something up by bypassing the rheostat? It was really easy and I didn't disturb any other wires under the dash. Is it just a coincidence? Any ideas on what the problem is and how to solve it? Thanks Paul Willoughby Torrance, CA 1964 TR4 1956 TR3 From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 7 21:32:58 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 04:32:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4 generator light on In-Reply-To: <1119707513.9162051262925157985.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <589654460.9162171262925178445.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Paul Willoughby" wrote: > Did I mess something up by bypassing the rheostat? It was really easy > and I > didn't disturb any other wires under the dash. Is it just a > coincidence? I think this makes sense without resorting to coincidence. The load on the system increased with the brighter dash lights. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1994 Miata C-package 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tr4zest at gmail.com Fri Jan 8 04:01:40 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 06:01:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator light on In-Reply-To: <589654460.9162171262925178445.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1119707513.9162051262925157985.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <589654460.9162171262925178445.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Hmmm. The load from 6 tiny dashlights? I know charging capacity is marginal on TR4s, but I would be surprsed if that would overload the charging system. I guess you are using 'bright' as a relative term Paul? 'Bright dashlight' is an oxymoron for TRs, at least in mine. I think it more likely that after bypassing the rheostat and having it work for a while, the wires then moved to create a short. Maybe red is now going to ground. The red wire comes from the fusebox, fed by Red/Green via a fuse. There is some sort of short if the ignition light is on when the car is 'off' If the fuse is OK, what happens when you remove it? The red wire is always hot (has current whether the ignition is on or off). If, when you remove the fuse, the ignition warning light goes out, then you know he short is along the red wire. You'll also lose tail/park/licence plate/instrument lights at the same time. Maybe this will help? Scroll down to se TR4 loom: http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf Brian From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jan 8 07:01:38 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 09:01:38 EST Subject: [TR] TR4 generator light on Message-ID: In a message dated 1/7/2010 8:03:44 PM Central Standard Time, paulwillou at socal.rr.com writes: > Did I mess something up by bypassing the rheostat? It was really easy > and I > didn't disturb any other wires under the dash. Is it just a coincidence? > Any > ideas on what the problem is and how to solve it? > Probably coincidence. I can't think of anything behind the dash that would cause this. You could disconnect the rheostat and see if the problem goes away. Check all your connections at the generator and the control box. The problem is most likely there. Dave From kinneyjr at msn.com Fri Jan 8 07:08:38 2010 From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 09:08:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Herald Body Parts FS in NC Message-ID: Dear Old Dad and I parted out a 1966 Triumph Herald 1200 sedan over the holidays. This was a mercy killing because it had sat for years after vandals shot out all the glass and the entire bottom pretty much rusted out after filling up with leaves and water. Anyway, the bonnet, sedan top, and boot are in pretty good shape. The rusty frame and rest of the body are there if you want them, too. I posted pictures on the VTR classifieds and can send more. We posted a price of $100 OBO, but seriously, make an offer if you are at all interested. We'd rather see this go to someone who might use them rather than the landfill. Pickup only, please, unless we can drop them off locally or to your designated shipper. Dad and Herald are in central NC with convenient access to I-85. Please e-mail with questions and thanks for reading. Jeremy Kinney '66 TR4A _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390709/direct/01/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 8 09:14:10 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 08:14:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator light on In-Reply-To: <6803DA9174E94A53930F02EE587D1A89@paulal73q2sjay> Message-ID: <5A.50.19543.3D9574B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > The red light > stayed on the whole time, even after turning off the car and > starting again, twice. Obviously, you have pissed off the spirit of Lucas! Bright dash lights indeed! Seriously, it's most likely coincidence. I would proceed to troubleshoot the charging system ignoring the change to the dash lights. First step, repolarize the generator. Not likely to be the problem, but easy enough to do. One way is to disconnect the wire from the 'F' terminal at the regulator, and brush it against the 'A' or 'A1' terminals. Reconnect and retest. My next step would be to remove the wires from the 'F' and 'D' terminals, and join them together with a voltmeter (or DMM) to ground. Start the engine, and rev it up just a little bit (fast idle) while watching the voltmeter. With a healthy generator, it should rise quickly to 15v or more (book notes to not let it go over 20 volts). If so, the problem is the control box, or the wiring to it. If not, repeat the test by removing the wires from the generator and joining the two terminals together directly. If you still don't get charging voltage, the generator is sick. I've got a PDF of a Lucas booklet giving blow-by-blow testing procedures; let me know if you'd like a copy. Randall From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Jan 8 09:58:27 2010 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 11:58:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 in Elvis movie - bit of trivia, made me chuckle Message-ID: <380-22010158165827503@M2W124.mail2web.com> Was just watching an old Elvis movie, Spinout - In the final Santa fe race scene, Shelley Fabares is driving a red Ferrari 250GT against of course, our hero, driving what may be an early Aston or Cunningham (I don't really know and couldn't find out), plus a group of assorted Cobras, a Cheetah, some Vettes and Jags. In one scene, as he catches up to her they come to a narrow section with a bridge - of course he shouts to her (As if you could hear over the roar of a racing V8) "lookout" and she banks left, breaks through the flimsy fencing, and into the river - and surprise, the car magically turns into a red TR4!! Up to the window sills in water, what a shame... Anyway, gave me a laugh Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From mlang99 at comcast.net Fri Jan 8 20:31:31 2010 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Fri, 08 Jan 2010 19:31:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] Side Curtain Frames Message-ID: <4B47F893.8050603@comcast.net> It's time to tackle rebuilding my side curtains. I have a 1956 TR3 with wedge mounts, but the side curtain frames that came with it are Dzus mount from a TR3A. Does anyone have a set of wedge mount frames that they would like to swap for a set of later Dzus mount frames? I am hoping that there is someone out there in the same situation, only opposite that I can help out. Thanks, Mike TS11544L From pete_groh at yahoo.com Sat Jan 9 10:25:50 2010 From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 09:25:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] License plates, State of Texas info my MD state (YOM) Message-ID: <438776.40562.qm@web36808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I set up as a vendor at auto flea market selling keys for British cars. In Maryland, your can register license plates the same year of your car. I came across this information about Texas license plates, and put in a request for letters/numbers 65 TR4. http://www.myplates.com/Design b Congratulations! That combination is available! You can now move forward with purchasing your plate.b On my own British cars, have MD dealership plates for the year 63b on the BJ7 and 65b on my TR4. Kind regards, Pete Groh (KeyGuy) Ellicott City MD USA From paulwillou at socal.rr.com Sat Jan 9 10:38:08 2010 From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 09:38:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator light on FIXED! - EMBARASSING References: <5A.50.19543.3D9574B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: My charging light is fixed. The smaller "F" terminal wire connector had slipped off the generator. Completely unrelated to bypassing the dash light rheostat. A quick tightening crimp of the female spade and I was back in business. I discovered it on step 3 of Randall's troubleshooting directions. Surprising that the car would run without it being connected and was even still charging 8-9 volts. (step 2). Ah, the mysteries of electricity. Thanks for the help, everyone. Paul "red faced" Willoughby Torrance, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 8:14 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 generator light on >> The red light >> stayed on the whole time, even after restarting the car twice. > > Obviously, you have pissed off the spirit of Lucas! Bright dash lights > indeed! > > Seriously, it's most likely coincidence. I would proceed to troubleshoot > the charging system ignoring the change to the dash lights. > > First step, repolarize the generator. Not likely to be the problem, but > easy enough to do. One way is to disconnect the wire from the 'F' > terminal > at the regulator, and brush it against the 'A' or 'A1' terminals. > Reconnect > and retest. > > My next step would be to remove the wires from the 'F' and 'D' terminals, > and join them together with a voltmeter (or DMM) to ground. Start the > engine, and rev it up just a little bit (fast idle) while watching the > voltmeter. With a healthy generator, it should rise quickly to 15v or > more > (book notes to not let it go over 20 volts). If so, the problem is the > control box, or the wiring to it. > > If not, repeat the test by removing the wires from the generator and > joining > the two terminals together directly. If you still don't get charging > voltage, the generator is sick. > > I've got a PDF of a Lucas booklet giving blow-by-blow testing procedures; > let me know if you'd like a copy. > > Randall > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as paulwillou at socal.rr.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Jan 9 11:10:47 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 09 Jan 2010 13:10:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator light on FIXED! - EMBARASSING In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4B488057.9045.10B21642@localhost> On 9 Jan 2010 at 9:38, Paul Willoughby wrote: > My charging light is fixed... Completely unrelated to bypassing > the dash light rheostat. Yeah, sure. Have you not learned anything from watching television? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 9 12:00:33 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 11:00:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator light on FIXED! - EMBARASSING In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <8D.32.19543.F42D84B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Surprising that the car would run without it being connected Car should run fine on just the battery. In fact it has to, as the generator does almost nothing at idle. > and was even > still charging 8-9 volts. Seems a little bit high; should be only 2-4 volts with the field disconnected. Perhaps the wire was hanging and still letting a bit of current through? Not really a cause for concern, but you might want to keep an eye on the ammeter. If it goes higher than +20 for very long, there may be an internal short in the generator. It really is a clever system; the problem is that there is no real difference between a DC motor and a DC generator except how fast it is turning. So, the generator must be disconnected from the battery with the engine stopped (or turning very slowly) so that it doesn't draw current out of the battery (and try to turn the engine). The problem is, how to know when to connect the generator to the battery. So, when you first start the engine, the generator gets no field current and works on strictly a slight magnetism remaining in the iron housing from the last time it was used. (Setting up this magnetism is what 'polarizing' does.) That generates a small voltage, which is fed only to the field windings to increase the output, and so the output quickly rises to battery voltage. When it gets there, the cutout contacts in the control box close (connecting the generator output to the battery). Now, how to 'know' when to disconnect the generator, since it's output is now always battery voltage, no matter how much it is, or is not, producing? There is another winding on the cutout relay that monitors the current to/from the generator. If the current rises to 3-5 amps going the 'wrong way', the current winding opposes the voltage winding; the cutout opens; the red light comes on (which basically just monitors the state of the cutout relay vs the ignition switch) and the whole cycle repeats when the generator rpm comes back up. Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sat Jan 9 13:05:42 2010 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 13:05:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] License plates, State of Texas info my MD state (YOM) In-Reply-To: <438776.40562.qm@web36808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <438776.40562.qm@web36808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af1001091205m3ee0e000mf2de3f8fa59ae026@mail.gmail.com> On 1/9/10, Pete Groh wrote: > In Maryland, your can register license plates the same year of your car. I > came across this information about Texas license plates, and put in a request for > letters/numbers 65 TR4. Are you saying that MD will let you use a plate made by these guys if the numbers match what you have had approved? AZ allows year-of-manufacture plates but I doubt they would go for an aftermarket substitute, especially one made by a photo process instead of the stamped metal the originals would have had. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sat Jan 9 13:11:32 2010 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 13:11:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] License plates, State of Texas info my MD state (YOM) In-Reply-To: <7bb181af1001091205m3ee0e000mf2de3f8fa59ae026@mail.gmail.com> References: <438776.40562.qm@web36808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <7bb181af1001091205m3ee0e000mf2de3f8fa59ae026@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af1001091211k311a9549gbc966ed4705ad462@mail.gmail.com> Never mind -- my browser was so slow I hadn't seen the full details until it finished loading. Apparently this is an option for folks in Texas... no idea if other states have similar arrangements. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 9 13:48:02 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 12:48:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] License plates, State of Texas info my MD state (YOM) In-Reply-To: <7bb181af1001091211k311a9549gbc966ed4705ad462@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <9A.B0.19471.18BE84B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Never mind -- my browser was so slow I hadn't seen the full details > until it finished loading. Apparently this is an option for folks in > Texas... no idea if other states have similar arrangements. California has a YOM program for certain years; but technically you are only allowed to use state-issued plates. That said, I have heard of people using reproduction YOM plates. At least one vendor will sell you embossed (not just silk screened) plates that are pretty good reproductions except for being aluminum instead of the original steel (I assume so it takes less pressure to emboss them). However, they won't ship to CA, so you have to find an intermediary in another state. Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Jan 9 13:52:13 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 15:52:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Side Curtain Frames References: <4B47F893.8050603@comcast.net> Message-ID: <242795D964EE489D9452326B07E569AF@DCS78M81> Subject: [TR] Side Curtain Frames > It's time to tackle rebuilding my side curtains. I have a 1956 TR3 with > wedge mounts, but the side curtain frames that came with it are Dzus > mount from a TR3A. > > Does anyone have a set of wedge mount frames that they would like to > swap for a set of later Dzus mount frames? I am hoping that there is > someone out there in the same situation, only opposite that I can help > out. > > Thanks, > > Mike > TS11544L > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as tfansher at comcast.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Jan 9 13:53:37 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 15:53:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Side Curtain Frames References: <4B47F893.8050603@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8FFDF8F4E6B94624B8D6E89780D784CA@DCS78M81> Mike, I have one wedge mount side curtain frame -- it's at another location, so I can't even tell you which side it's for. If you want me to check on it, let me know. You can have it for shipping from Florida -- or I can bring it to Jekyll Island next October at VTR... ;^) Tom Subject: [TR] Side Curtain Frames > It's time to tackle rebuilding my side curtains. I have a 1956 TR3 with > wedge mounts, but the side curtain frames that came with it are Dzus > mount from a TR3A. > > Does anyone have a set of wedge mount frames that they would like to > swap for a set of later Dzus mount frames? I am hoping that there is > someone out there in the same situation, only opposite that I can help > out. > > Thanks, > > Mike > TS11544L From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Jan 9 14:22:38 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 16:22:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Voltage Regulator Cut Out References: <8D.32.19543.F42D84B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <4AEC25A5D9E14F769C60ACDEF3100A51@Edscomputer> And if the cut out fails to open when the engine's shut down,and the generator, acting as a motor, fails to turn the engine, the result is a dead short across the battery. If you're lucky, the wire will melt, acting like a fuse. If you're not, the resulting fire could burn your Triumph, garage and house to the ground. So, either watch your ammeter each time you shut down or park outside. Ed Woods From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jan 9 16:10:27 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 18:10:27 EST Subject: [TR] TR4 generator light on FIXED! - EMBARASSING Message-ID: In a message dated 1/9/2010 12:25:46 PM Central Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > >My charging light is fixed... Completely unrelated to bypassing > >the dash light rheostat. > > Yeah, sure. > > Have you not learned anything from watching television? > Yeah, but X-Files has been off the air for a few years now. Dave From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jan 9 16:19:32 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 23:19:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Voltage Regulator Cut Out In-Reply-To: <4AEC25A5D9E14F769C60ACDEF3100A51@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <1063035069.8324251263079172893.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> another good reason to consider an alternator for a driver.B btw, does anyone make a kit? ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 9, 2010 3:22:38 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: [TR] Voltage Regulator Cut Out And if the cut out fails to open when the engine's shut down,and the generator, acting as a motor, fails to turn the engine, the result is a dead short across the battery. If you're lucky, the wire will melt, acting like a fuse. If you're not, the resulting fire could burn your Triumph, garage and house to the ground. So, either watch your ammeter each time you shut down or park outside. Ed Woods Suggested annual donation B $11.47 You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr4zest at gmail.com Sat Jan 9 21:00:02 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 23:00:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator light on FIXED! - EMBARASSING In-Reply-To: References: <5A.50.19543.3D9574B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: I'm glad you found the fault. With this wire disconnected, I am unclear as to why the ignition light would be on with the ignition key 'off', as reported. Never mind: as W. S. wrote, All's Well That Ends Well. Brian On Sat, Jan 9, 2010 at 12:38 PM, Paul Willoughby wrote: > My charging light is fixed. The smaller "F" terminal wire connector had > slipped off the generator. Completely unrelated to bypassing the dash light > rheostat. A quick tightening crimp of the female spade and I was back in > business. > > I discovered it on step 3 of Randall's troubleshooting directions. > Surprising that the car would run without it being connected and was even > still charging 8-9 volts. (step 2). Ah, the mysteries of electricity. > > Thanks for the help, everyone. > > Paul "red faced" Willoughby > Torrance, CA > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" > To: > Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 8:14 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 generator light on > > > The red light >>> stayed on the whole time, even after restarting the car twice. >>> >> >> Obviously, you have pissed off the spirit of Lucas! Bright dash lights >> indeed! >> >> Seriously, it's most likely coincidence. I would proceed to troubleshoot >> the charging system ignoring the change to the dash lights. >> >> First step, repolarize the generator. Not likely to be the problem, but >> easy enough to do. One way is to disconnect the wire from the 'F' >> terminal >> at the regulator, and brush it against the 'A' or 'A1' terminals. >> Reconnect >> and retest. >> >> My next step would be to remove the wires from the 'F' and 'D' terminals, >> and join them together with a voltmeter (or DMM) to ground. Start the >> engine, and rev it up just a little bit (fast idle) while watching the >> voltmeter. With a healthy generator, it should rise quickly to 15v or >> more >> (book notes to not let it go over 20 volts). If so, the problem is the >> control box, or the wiring to it. >> >> If not, repeat the test by removing the wires from the generator and >> joining >> the two terminals together directly. If you still don't get charging >> voltage, the generator is sick. >> >> I've got a PDF of a Lucas booklet giving blow-by-blow testing procedures; >> let me know if you'd like a copy. >> >> Randall >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> >> >> You are subscribed as paulwillou at socal.rr.com >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as tr4zest at gmail.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sun Jan 10 07:48:57 2010 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:48:57 +0100 Subject: [TR] Thrust washers. Message-ID: I would be grateful for the wisdom of the list on the matter of the thrust washers in my TR4A. Sometime ago I crowbarred the crankshaft back and forth and it seemed to have significant endplay. Eventually I obtained a dial gauge and the fixings and measured the play accurately at .0075". Since the sump gasket was leaking a bit more than I like I have dropped it to fix the joint. Whilst there I have dropped the centre main bearing cap and removed the thrust washers which both seem barely worn and are .0925" thick as specified in the Moss catalogue. The centre main journal and cap bearing shell are in excellent condition and the oil pressure runs as book in all weathers. Do listers think I should obtain oversize washers and grind them down to .0935 to bring the endfloat to .005? Or shall I just put it all back as it is! TIA. David Brister 1967 TR4A. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2539 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From paulwillou at socal.rr.com Sun Jan 10 08:20:13 2010 From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 07:20:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator light on FIXED! - EMBARASSING References: <5A.50.19543.3D9574B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <0E927434F9CC4244805BBDBCEA47061E@paulal73q2sjay> That was a bit of bad writing on my part. I should have written "I restarted the car twice and the light still stayed on (while running)." Instead I wrote something like "the light stayed on even after turning the car off and on, twice". Certainly ambiguous and confusing. Maybe Prince Lucas has infected my keyboard, too. Paulw Torrance, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Jones To: Paul Willoughby Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net ; Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 8:00 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 generator light on FIXED! - EMBARASSING I'm glad you found the fault. With this wire disconnected, I am unclear as to why the ignition light would be on with the ignition key 'off', as reported. Never mind: as W. S. wrote, All's Well That Ends Well. Brian On Sat, Jan 9, 2010 at 12:38 PM, Paul Willoughby wrote: My charging light is fixed. The smaller "F" terminal wire connector had slipped off the generator. Completely unrelated to bypassing the dash light rheostat. A quick tightening crimp of the female spade and I was back in business. I discovered it on step 3 of Randall's troubleshooting directions. Surprising that the car would run without it being connected and was even still charging 8-9 volts. (step 2). Ah, the mysteries of electricity. Thanks for the help, everyone. Paul "red faced" Willoughby Torrance, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 8:14 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 generator light on The red light stayed on the whole time, even after restarting the car twice. Obviously, you have pissed off the spirit of Lucas! Bright dash lights indeed! Seriously, it's most likely coincidence. I would proceed to troubleshoot the charging system ignoring the change to the dash lights. First step, repolarize the generator. Not likely to be the problem, but easy enough to do. One way is to disconnect the wire from the 'F' terminal at the regulator, and brush it against the 'A' or 'A1' terminals. Reconnect and retest. My next step would be to remove the wires from the 'F' and 'D' terminals, and join them together with a voltmeter (or DMM) to ground. Start the engine, and rev it up just a little bit (fast idle) while watching the voltmeter. With a healthy generator, it should rise quickly to 15v or more (book notes to not let it go over 20 volts). If so, the problem is the control box, or the wiring to it. If not, repeat the test by removing the wires from the generator and joining the two terminals together directly. If you still don't get charging voltage, the generator is sick. I've got a PDF of a Lucas booklet giving blow-by-blow testing procedures; let me know if you'd like a copy. Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jan 10 08:50:07 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 10:50:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Thrust washers. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201001101050.08273.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 10 January 2010 09:48:57 am David Brister wrote: > I would be grateful for the wisdom of the list on the matter of the thrust > washers in my TR4A. Sometime ago I crowbarred the crankshaft back and forth > and it seemed to have significant endplay. Eventually I obtained a dial > gauge and the fixings and measured the play accurately at .0075". Since the > sump gasket was leaking a bit more than I like I have dropped it to fix > the joint. Whilst there I have dropped the centre main bearing cap and > removed the thrust washers which both seem barely worn and are .0925" > thick as specified in the Moss catalogue. > The centre main journal and cap bearing shell are in excellent condition > and the oil pressure runs as book in all weathers. Do listers think I > should obtain oversize washers and grind them down to .0935 to bring the > endfloat to .005? Or shall I just put it all back as it is! > TIA. > > David Brister > 1967 TR4A. > David, Since you have the pan and cap off I see no reason not to set the end float to the correct setting. Just remember when you "grind" the oversize washers down, use a flat surface and emery cloth if you do it at home. I use plate glass. Also make sure you take material off the back of the washer, not the part with the oil grove. But you can have your local machine shop do it. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 10 09:09:49 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 08:09:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] Thrust washers. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <91.06.17767.DCBF94B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Do listers think I should > obtain oversize washers and grind them down to .0935 to bring > the endfloat > to .005? Or shall I just put it all back as it is! Personally, I would leave well enough alone. Thrust washers are practically never a problem on the TRactor motor, possibly due to having twice as much bearing area as the TR6 or perhaps due to better crank rigidity. And the .004"-.006" figure is a "new" specification, not a wear limit (no wear limit is given, AFAIK) "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" But I'd like to point out that your math is off. It is permissible to mix oversize and standard thrusts (in pairs), so you would only need to reduce two bearing halves from .0975" to .0960". Not a "grinding" job but just a few minutes with a sheet of fine sandpaper and a flat surface (a sheet of window glass or MDF will do). Obviously, you work down the backing side (without the oil grooves). Randall From trglory at verizon.net Sun Jan 10 09:18:39 2010 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 11:18:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Voltage Regulator Cut Out In-Reply-To: <1063035069.8324251263079172893.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <4AEC25A5D9E14F769C60ACDEF3100A51@Edscomputer> <1063035069.8324251263079172893.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <007501ca9210$922bda80$b6838f80$@net> Yes, Triumph Rescue does. Go to http://www.triumphrescue.com/id3.html NFI Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01 at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 6:20 PM To: Ed Woods Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Voltage Regulator Cut Out another good reason to consider an alternator for a driver.B btw, does anyone make a kit? ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 9, 2010 3:22:38 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: [TR] Voltage Regulator Cut Out And if the cut out fails to open when the engine's shut down,and the generator, acting as a motor, fails to turn the engine, the result is a dead short across the battery. If you're lucky, the wire will melt, acting like a fuse. If you're not, the resulting fire could burn your Triumph, garage and house to the ground. So, either watch your ammeter each time you shut down or park outside. Ed Woods From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Jan 10 09:54:03 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 11:54:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] parts I used for Alternator conversion on my TR4 Message-ID: <6fa72a771001100854q166aef1dy119f9f0301479801@mail.gmail.com> I did this back in 2006 and it's been working great for me. I made no permanent modifications to the car or wiring, so I can go back to the stock generator setup anytime I like. bought the pulley from these folks below - part number A203 http://www.alternatorparts.com/10si-all-in-one.html#pulleys got a rebuilt alternator for a 75 Camaro (as someone suggested on this list) and a cogged fan belt from NAPA part number 2524379 a 6 inch piece of 3/8 or 1/2 pipe, a 7" (I think - best to measure) hardened bolt, and a 1/4 inch thick spacer. I removed the generator and cut a piece of pipe to use as a spacer in the generator bracket. Use a high strength bolt as standard will not cut it. the front plate alone is not enough to support the alternator - it will fail is used alone to support the alternator. http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/4308/2993/1600/DSCN0700.jpg the outboard washers are used to line up the Alternator pulley with the crankshaft pulley. http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/4308/2993/1600/DSCN0708.jpg cut the boss off the alternator so things line up If I had been more precise, I would not have needed the washers above. http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/4308/2993/1600/DSCN0706.jpg Use a spacer and longer bolt to hold the belt tensioner. I did not have to bend the arm at all. My spacer ended up being about 1/4 inch thick. http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/4308/2993/1600/DSCN0712.0.jpg removed the control box and wired the alternator directly to the battery through a fusible link as the wiring in my car was not up to the current a modern alterantor can put out. As a result, my amp meter is always showing discharge - but I don't mind anymore. Was going to put in a voltmeter but I've grown accustomed to the meter. Dan Masters has a very good write up on electricals on the VTR website so I wont address that. http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator/conversions.shtml Good luck, Chris From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 10 10:35:35 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 09:35:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] parts I used for Alternator conversion on my TR4 In-Reply-To: <6fa72a771001100854q166aef1dy119f9f0301479801@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <46.05.19471.7EF0A4B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > As a result, my amp meter is always showing discharge - FWIW, I did a conversion very similar to Chris' on my TR3A back in the 80's; except I did route the 60 amp alternator output through the original wiring harness and ammeter. Since I didn't like having the ammeter hit the peg on cold starts, I added a shunt across the back of it to take roughly 1/2 the current (so it read +30 when the real current was +60). This setup was still working quite well for me when the car got wrecked in 2005. Lacking a source for the pulley at the time, I just had a machine shop bore out my original generator pulley for me (which was ruined for generator use anyway, as it had worked loose on the shaft). Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Sun Jan 10 11:52:14 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 12:52:14 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] SAE verses UNC Message-ID: <526318913.299823.1263149534217.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> From thenicholls at verizon.net Sun Jan 10 11:54:35 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 12:54:35 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] SAE verses UNC Message-ID: <1246546427.299990.1263149675928.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> On Jan 10, 2010, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: Hi members, Had my local car club to my house yesterday to remove the soft top and frame for a winter project. TR looks fantastic with the hard top (owned 5 years, first install). I had all hardware except for TRF HU721 (1/4 " by 1 1/2), lock washer and washer. Members advised to go to a small local shop.B I can order from TRF, but I thougt I would give it a shot. Is a 1/4 inch X 1 1/2" UNC bolt the same as a 1/4 inch X 1 1/2" SAE fine thread?B B Looks like it is the same by my searches on the web. Thanks in advance, the TR6 looks totally different withB the hard top on.B Cannot wait to drive B CraigB Vienna, VA 72 TR6B From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jan 10 11:59:45 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 11:59:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] SAE verses UNC In-Reply-To: <1246546427.299990.1263149675928.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1246546427.299990.1263149675928.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <4B4A23A1.4000203@bradakis.com> > Is a 1/4 inch X 1 1/2" UNC bolt the same as a 1/4 inch X 1 1/2" SAE fine > thread?B B Looks like it is the same by my searches on the web. > The C in UNC stands for coarse - 20 threads per inch, as opposed to fine which has 28 tpi. mjb. From tr6nut at verizon.net Sun Jan 10 11:59:14 2010 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 13:59:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] SAE verses UNC In-Reply-To: <1246546427.299990.1263149675928.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1246546427.299990.1263149675928.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <4B4A2382.4050704@verizon.net> I thought UNF was the same as SAE fine thread and UNC was SAE coarse thread. > Is a 1/4 inch X 1 1/2" UNC bolt the same as a 1/4 inch X 1 1/2" SAE fine > thread?B B Looks like it is the same by my searches on the web. From david.stauffacher at jackinthebox.com Fri Jan 8 12:37:25 2010 From: david.stauffacher at jackinthebox.com (David Stauffacher) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 11:37:25 -0800 Subject: [TR] Scrap tub or not? Message-ID: <17E467D263182A4390306719C4C0AF781DAB108FD3@EXCH-01.corp.jitb.net> I'm faced with a dilemma. I purchased a 69 TR6 as a parts car for the rebuild of my 70 RHD PI that was severely damaged. Upon dismantling the 69 I discovered that the tub is severely rusted and damaged. The inner/outer sills, floor boards, spare tire pan, captured nuts & plates and foot wells are rusted through and need to be replaced/repaired. Also the rear end sustained major damage and the repair was worse. The rear end is shifted about = inch to left and when they replaced the rear end, it was not aligned correctly - they ended up using a 2 inch block of wood between the frame and rear body mounts. It would take a lot of work to put it back together correctly. I don't have the temperament or money to have it done. I can salvage the front clip -from the firewall forward but the rest is destined for the scrap. But before I make a final decision, I thought I would query the list to see what others may think. Thanks, David Stauffacher Ramona, Ca CP51649 From dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jan 10 13:44:11 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:44:11 EST Subject: [TR] SAE verses UNC Message-ID: <1ec56.56a9375c.387b961b@cs.com> In a message dated 1/10/2010 12:55:00 PM Central Standard Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: > Is a 1/4 inch X 1 1/2" UNC bolt the same as a 1/4 inch X 1 1/2" SAE fine > thread?B B Looks like it is the same by my searches on the web. > As was mentioned, the C is for coarse (20 TPI) and UNF would be fine (28 TPI). My contribution is that I don't recall ANY coarse thread bolts associated with the TR6 hard top so look for 1/4-28 bolts. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 10 15:59:42 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 14:59:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] SAE verses UNC In-Reply-To: <1246546427.299990.1263149675928.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: > I had all hardware except for TRF HU721 (1/4 " by 1 1/2), Could that have been HU712 ? If so, it is a 1/4" UNF by 1.5" bolt, and a 1/4 SAE fine will work perfectly. Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Sun Jan 10 16:16:11 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 17:16:11 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] SAE verses UNC Message-ID: <353903224.320762.1263165371610.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> Yes, as usual you are correct.........Craig On Jan 10, 2010, Randall wrote: > I had all hardware except for TRF HU721 (1/4 " by 1 1/2), Could that have been HU712 ? If so, it is a 1/4" UNF by 1.5" bolt, and a 1/4 SAE fine will work perfectly. Randall From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Jan 10 23:30:01 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 22:30:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Fwd: Re: diffs] Message-ID: <4B4AC569.7030401@gmail.com> Here's the latest from Ken about the limited slip diffs. It is easier just to forward it than to rephrase it. Terian -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: diffs Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 17:03:54 -0800 From: BFEKen at copper.net Reply-To: BFEKen at copper.net To: TeriAnn J. Wakeman ----- Original Message ----- *From:* BFEKen at copper.net *To:* TeriAnn Wakeman *Sent:* Sunday, January 10, 2010 4:13 PM *Subject:* diffs *Teriann, So far we have had 13 what I would call serious inquires* *It looks like I will have to get a date from Darryl as to when they will be* *ready to ship& I will have to have each buyer to send say $700 by that date, a complete description of their car, their shipping address & any other particulars we might need.* ** *Ken* From staffel at comcast.net Mon Jan 11 00:51:39 2010 From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 07:51:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator field spade/wire Message-ID: <1109222648-1263196342-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1129885865-@bda807.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> >From 1968-2000 my TR4 was also notorious for the field spade wire either 'cracking'at the spade, or the spade popping off -the first due to exhaust manifold heat brittling the plastic wire coating and/or the spade loosining from vbration. Solved the problem by 'upgrading to a 2wire plug Delco alternator (Fiero size)but kept the TR4 wide pulley and new 'farm belt'. Did have to modify the housing/bracket/lower rod However Not a single problem in 10 years! Instructions on VTR web page IIRC! Oh not actually needing the voltage control regulator (that required replacement every year) - made all the connections in the base of that little black box (krinkled)(guts removed) so still has the stock appearance. Keep spare fuses/key in 35mm plastic film can in there with no issues, a Lucas irony. Also used marine dual 12V outlets mounted on small hardwood flooring panel mounted on inside of GT6 armrest (where original handbrake arm used to exit) to provide power for GPS/cellphone charger; but still running my 1970 Radio Shack am/fm 8track in glove box!. BTW, had to put the top up for first time in 7 years in E of Shenandoah rainstorm last Fall, and had less leaks than orig top when at Woodstock in 1969! Talk about 'A Triumph' moment! Smiles to all: Sherman Sherman D Taffel 65 TR4 pseudo vintage racer! Columbia MD & Goldvein VA Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From agraham at execulink.com Mon Jan 11 08:32:02 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 10:32:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Master cylinder problems Message-ID: <4B4B4472.9040808@execulink.com> Hello List: Working on a pair of TR4 master cylinders (brake & clutch) and trying to fit rebuild kits. Have the pistons free and the circlips out, but I can't seem to extract the pistons. They appear to be hitting a something at the circlip end of the bore. I can't feet any wear ridge or anything that might be stopping the pistons. Am I missing a step here or is it the case that it doesn't take much to prevent the pistons from exiting the bores. Have tried much soaking, etc. and trying to lightly emery-cloth the part of the bore that I can reach. Any tips or is this a common problem?? Thanks in advance, Angelo Graham From joemato at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 11 12:45:22 2010 From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 11:45:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR 3 Voltage Regulator Message-ID: <93698.78339.qm@web83506.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> The conventional wisdom on changing a generator is to also change the VR, Is there a good way to check for proper operation using the old one? From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Jan 11 14:25:15 2010 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 14:25:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 3 Voltage Regulator In-Reply-To: <93698.78339.qm@web83506.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <93698.78339.qm@web83506.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af1001111325ob651564n57137553d335f7d6@mail.gmail.com> The Lucas Fault manual is what I have always used. I think Randall has a pdf of the thing, possibly on the web. Hopefully he or someone or an archive search will point you to it. It is a simple step-by-step check of the electrical components including the control box. On 1/11/10, JOSEPH MATO wrote: > The conventional wisdom on changing a generator is to also change the VR, Is > there a good way to check for proper operation using the old one? > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as ahwahnee18 at gmail.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Jan 11 14:28:29 2010 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 14:28:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Master cylinder problems In-Reply-To: <4B4B4472.9040808@execulink.com> References: <4B4B4472.9040808@execulink.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af1001111328h6ed3da7dn9cb4a51d33d1b39a@mail.gmail.com> Are you using something to push them along? Or just smacking the end of the MC on a block of wood? I always used compressed air from a blow-gun with a length of 1/4" irrigation hose jammed in hole for the line. Put a towel over the open end of the MC to catch the piston. On 1/11/10, Angelo Graham wrote: >I can't seem to extract the pistons. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 11 21:16:03 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 20:16:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR 3 Voltage Regulator In-Reply-To: <93698.78339.qm@web83506.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Joe Mato wrote: > The conventional wisdom on changing a generator is to also > change the VR, Is there a good way to check for proper > operation using the old one? Interestingly enough, I read a note in an old TSOA newsletter to the effect that the generator model was changed during the TR3A run; and that the control boxes must match the generator used. The change was from the original 19 amp specification to a 23 amp model, and while it makes sense to me that the later control box shouldn't be used with the earlier generator (as the 19 amp model will eventually burn up if allowed to produce 23 amps for long); I was surprised to see that they also said the early box couldn't be used with the later generator. Geo Hahn wrote: > The Lucas Fault manual is what I have always used. I think Randall > has a pdf of the thing, possibly on the web. Hopefully he or someone > or an archive search will point you to it. What I have is not the Lucas Electrical Fault manual, but the Lucas Generator and Control Box Tests manual. This is a short manual intended for service stations and such, with simple, straightforward tests and adjustments only of the DC generator and control box (no alternators or any other electrical device). 28 pages total, but only 6 apply to the setup on the TR2-4. No doubt there are copies on the web, but I've never gotten around to putting one up myself, so I just pass around PDF files. Email me if you'd like a copy. When I assembled TS13571L for TRfest, I deliberately left the original, 19 amp generator & control box on; just to refresh my memory of what it was like. Works just like I remember: slowly discharging with the headlights on and overcharging with them off. Car doesn't always want to start after a long nighttime drive, especially if it's cold and sat for a few days. Originality be darned, I'm putting an alternator on! Randall From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Tue Jan 12 00:42:32 2010 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 08:42:32 +0100 Subject: [TR] Thrust washers Message-ID: <708702C8756642ACA0FA74E3BB2A3B3B@Study> Many thanks to those who replied to my question about thrust washers, some on the list and some off-list. FWIW I am gpoing to mix-n-match OS with Sandard and reduce end float to .005". Thanks again, David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2566 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 12 05:50:49 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 07:50:49 EST Subject: [TR] TR 3 Voltage Regulator Message-ID: <1cbd.63723ca0.387dca29@cs.com> In a message dated 1/11/2010 10:19:45 PM Central Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Interestingly enough, I read a note in an old TSOA newsletter to the > effect > that the generator model was changed during the TR3A run; and that the > control boxes must match the generator used. The change was from the > original 19 amp specification to a 23 amp model, and while it makes sense > to > me that the later control box shouldn't be used with the earlier generator > (as the 19 amp model will eventually burn up if allowed to produce 23 amps > for long); I was surprised to see that they also said the early box > couldn't > be used with the later generator. > Is this a case where the old box and new generator won't work, or it will work but will sustain damage, or is it a case of you can't use the old box with the new generator ***and expect to get 23 amps out of it***? (They probably didn't say why, tech manuals usually don't) Dave BTW, I'll take a copy, thanks. From tkeefover at gmail.com Tue Jan 12 06:19:04 2010 From: tkeefover at gmail.com (Terry Keefover) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 08:19:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Fenders Message-ID: What is the difference in the front fenders on the TR6? The change happened in the 1974.5-1976 model years, I have a '73 that I am restoring and a '76 that I am using for parts, is there any other body panels that are different? (tub, firewall, doors, rear deck). Regards, Terry From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 12 06:58:27 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 08:58:27 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Fenders Message-ID: <30e6.7583b89.387dda03@cs.com> In a message dated 1/12/2010 7:20:04 AM Central Standard Time, tkeefover at gmail.com writes: > What is the difference in the front fenders on the TR6? The change > happened > in the 1974.5-1976 model years, I have a '73 that I am restoring and a '76 > that I am using for parts, is there any other body panels that are > The big change is the parking/turn signal lamps. When they moved the bumper there was no room for the lamp assemblies and they deleted them from the sheet metal and mounted pod lamps under the bumpers. That and the bumper mount provisions are the only changes that I know of. Dave From tkeefover at gmail.com Tue Jan 12 07:30:29 2010 From: tkeefover at gmail.com (Terry Keefover) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 09:30:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Fenders In-Reply-To: <30e6.7583b89.387dda03@cs.com> References: <30e6.7583b89.387dda03@cs.com> Message-ID: Thanks Dave...I would be willing to trade my '76 front fender for an early '73 right front fender if anyone is interested. Terry On Tue, Jan 12, 2010 at 8:58 AM, wrote: > In a message dated 1/12/2010 7:20:04 AM Central Standard Time, > tkeefover at gmail.com writes: > > What is the difference in the front fenders on the TR6? The change > > happened > > in the 1974.5-1976 model years, I have a '73 that I am restoring and a > '76 > > that I am using for parts, is there any other body panels that are > > > The big change is the parking/turn signal lamps. When they moved the > bumper there was no room for the lamp assemblies and they deleted them from > the > sheet metal and mounted pod lamps under the bumpers. That and the bumper > mount provisions are the only changes that I know of. > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as tkeefover at gmail.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr6parts at charter.net Tue Jan 12 07:38:20 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 09:38:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Fenders References: Message-ID: As far as I know only the positioning of the hole for the side bumper attachment on the front bumper. When they raised the bumper height. 741/2-76. So the hole is higher on the later fender. The later cars also had an extra reinforcement in the doors and a door handle pull. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Keefover" To: Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 8:19 AM Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Fenders > What is the difference in the front fenders on the TR6? The change > happened > in the 1974.5-1976 model years, I have a '73 that I am restoring and a '76 > that I am using for parts, is there any other body panels that are > different? (tub, firewall, doors, rear deck). > > Regards, Terry From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 12 11:18:30 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 10:18:30 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR 3 Voltage Regulator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <291395.68573.qm@web111603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Randall would you know how to identify those changes? is it the lucar connector Vs the screw connector in the control box? but what about the generator? maybe that's the cause of my problems! the big 3 only offer one option of each connector type. if there is a difference i wonder what they are supplying?. Frank ________________________________ From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, January 11, 2010 8:16:03 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR 3 Voltage Regulator Joe Mato wrote: > The conventional wisdom on changing a generator is to also > change the VR, Is there a good way to check for proper > operation using the old one? Interestingly enough, I read a note in an old TSOA newsletter to the effect that the generator model was changed during the TR3A run; and that the control boxes must match the generator used.. The change was from the original 19 amp specification to a 23 amp model, and while it makes sense to me that the later control box shouldn't be used with the earlier generator (as the 19 amp model will eventually burn up if allowed to produce 23 amps for long); I was surprised to see that they also said the early box couldn't be used with the later generator.. Geo Hahn wrote: > The Lucas Fault manual is what I have always used. I think Randall > has a pdf of the thing, possibly on the web. Hopefully he or someone > or an archive search will point you to it. What I have is not the Lucas Electrical Fault manual, but the Lucas Generator and Control Box Tests manual. This is a short manual intended for service stations and such, with simple, straightforward tests and adjustments only of the DC generator and control box (no alternators or any other electrical device). 28 pages total, but only 6 apply to the setup on the TR2-4. No doubt there are copies on the web, but I've never gotten around to putting one up myself, so I just pass around PDF files. Email me if you'd like a copy. When I assembled TS13571L for TRfest, I deliberately left the original, 19 amp generator & control box on; just to refresh my memory of what it was like. Works just like I remember: slowly discharging with the headlights on and overcharging with them off. Car doesn't always want to start after a long nighttime drive, especially if it's cold and sat for a few days. Originality be darned, I'm putting an alternator on! Randall _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 12 13:05:00 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 12:05:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR 3 Voltage Regulator In-Reply-To: <291395.68573.qm@web111603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <291395.68573.qm@web111603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > would you know how to identify those changes? is it the lucar > connector Vs the screw connector in the control box? but what > about the generator? The generator change (as Andy points out, from type C39 to C40) was given as TS59289 in the TSOA note; while it's my understanding that the change to Lucar connectors didn't happen until TS60000. That would seem to imply that there was some overlap; but I don't know that for a fact. It may even be that there was a gap in production numbers before the new body was introduced. The C40 (23 amp) generator has a step in the outer body, making it larger over the field coils than the C39 (19 amp) version. The body of the C39 is straight. The model number (C39 or C40) should also be stamped on the unit somewhere, but I'm not sure where offhand. For the control box, I vaguely recall that the field resistor changed value; but I don't have the information handy at the moment. Perhaps Andy does? However, I honestly doubt this is your problem, Frank. I think you have other problems, like bad grounds or "new" control boxes that don't work (I've had several of those myself). -- Randall From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Jan 12 14:02:56 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 16:02:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 3 Voltage Regulator In-Reply-To: References: <291395.68573.qm@web111603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CC61E1BFD93FBC-F70-2ECC@webmail-d090.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Randall The C40 (23 amp) generator has a step in the outer body, making it larger over the field coils than the C39 (19 amp) version. The body of the C39 is straight. The model number (C39 or C40) should also be stamped on the unit somewhere, but I'm not sure where offhand. ==AM== ISTR any such stampings would be in about the same place on both generators. Also, ISTR that most C39 generators had screw terminals, while C40 generators routinely had spade terminals. ==AM== For the control box, I vaguely recall that the field resistor changed value; but I don't have the information handy at the moment. Perhaps Andy does? ==AM== Not at the moment, but I can try to dig around @ home later this evening. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From peter at nosimport.com Tue Jan 12 14:06:08 2010 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 15:06:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] List donations Message-ID: <201001121306906.SM01188@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Interestingly, while Mark B suggests the Spridget listers donate $12.75, and Triumph listers $11.47, he hasn't suggested $18.00 for the MG lsiters or $29.12 for the Healey listers...... Just sayin' Peter C From don at napanet.net Tue Jan 12 14:30:47 2010 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 13:30:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy Message-ID: <20100112214028.8FF2924BA66@mail.napanet.net> I just received latest copy of R&T magazine. I subscribe for nostalgic reasons as most of the magazine is boring. The bright spot in the magazine is always the column by Peter Egan. Subject starts out on guys that change their own oil, and then goes on from there. The article is on the R&T website and worth a read. Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy - Side Glances by Peter Egan http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/signs-that-you-might-be-a-car-guy >_________________________________________________________ > > >Don Scott >Calistoga CA >2001 Miata SE BRG >1967 TR4A >1962 MGA Mk II >1967 MGB (not quite yet) > >_______________________________________________ From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 12 15:17:45 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 22:17:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy In-Reply-To: <20100112214028.8FF2924BA66@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <91126166.10975711263334665817.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy - Side Glances by Peter Egan > > http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/signs-that-you-might-be-a-car-guy ======== 28. You own several combination wrenches that have been heated to a cherry red with your oxy-acetylene torch and bent to perform special tasks, now forgotten. ======== No way. You remember every one of them. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1994 Miata C-package 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 12 16:03:12 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 15:03:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy In-Reply-To: <91126166.10975711263334665817.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <20100112214028.8FF2924BA66@mail.napanet.net> <91126166.10975711263334665817.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > No way. You remember every one of them. Maybe you do. I've got a whole drawer full of special purpose tools, many of them home-made from some other tool and there is no way I could go through that drawer, pick up each tool and tell you what it's used for. Funny looking bolts, bits of pipe, little chunks of tubing, sockets milled into funny shapes, etc. But when it comes time to do something I've done before, like tighten the nut inside the shift knob on an OD Stag (round nut at the bottom of a square hole just barely bigger than the nut), I go to the drawer and there it is, the perfect tool! -- Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Jan 12 16:13:23 2010 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 18:13:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] List donations References: <201001121306906.SM01188@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Message-ID: Why the odd amounts? Paul Dorsey 60 Tr3 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Caldwell" To: "spridgets" ; Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 4:06 PM Subject: [TR] List donations > Interestingly, while Mark B suggests the Spridget listers donate > $12.75, and Triumph listers $11.47, he hasn't suggested $18.00 for > the MG lsiters or $29.12 for the Healey listers...... > > Just sayin' > > > Peter C > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Jan 12 16:32:45 2010 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 18:32:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 3 Voltage Regulator References: Message-ID: Randall, I'm not a very sharp tool in the shed, but... if we're talking about an early 19 amp system being 'outdone' by a later higher amp generator...then... does it follow for systems with alternators as well? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 Tr3 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 11:16 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR 3 Voltage Regulator > Joe Mato wrote: >> The conventional wisdom on changing a generator is to also >> change the VR, Is there a good way to check for proper >> operation using the old one? > > Interestingly enough, I read a note in an old TSOA newsletter to the > effect > that the generator model was changed during the TR3A run; and that the > control boxes must match the generator used. The change was from the > original 19 amp specification to a 23 amp model, and while it makes sense > to > me that the later control box shouldn't be used with the earlier generator > (as the 19 amp model will eventually burn up if allowed to produce 23 amps > for long); I was surprised to see that they also said the early box > couldn't > be used with the later generator. > > Geo Hahn wrote: >> The Lucas Fault manual is what I have always used. I think Randall >> has a pdf of the thing, possibly on the web. Hopefully he or someone >> or an archive search will point you to it. > > What I have is not the Lucas Electrical Fault manual, but the Lucas > Generator and Control Box Tests manual. This is a short manual intended > for > service stations and such, with simple, straightforward tests and > adjustments only of the DC generator and control box (no alternators or > any > other electrical device). 28 pages total, but only 6 apply to the setup > on > the TR2-4. > > No doubt there are copies on the web, but I've never gotten around to > putting one up myself, so I just pass around PDF files. Email me if you'd > like a copy. > > When I assembled TS13571L for TRfest, I deliberately left the original, 19 > amp generator & control box on; just to refresh my memory of what it was > like. Works just like I remember: slowly discharging with the headlights > on > and overcharging with them off. Car doesn't always want to start after a > long nighttime drive, especially if it's cold and sat for a few days. > Originality be darned, I'm putting an alternator on! > > Randall > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jan 12 17:41:36 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 19:41:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy In-Reply-To: References: <91126166.10975711263334665817.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4B4CD070.9406.A9A9BE1@localhost> On 12 Jan 2010 at 15:03, Randall wrote: > (round nut at the bottom of a square > hole just barely bigger than the nut) I usually get worried when I see "round nut" and "square hole" in the same sentence. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Tue Jan 12 17:54:35 2010 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 17:54:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Less than 30 hours TTA Stag Uncle Jack will have a New Owner! Message-ID: <4B4D19CB.1010208@triumphstagclub.org> Hi Folks, Less than 30 hours the new owner of Uncle Jack will be revealed. This eBay Auction ENDS at 01:00 am Pacific Time on the 14th, that is about 4 am Eastern time on the 14th and about 09:00 am GMT? Sorry for the odd times listing, I was thinking PM times and set it for AM times ... Heck, serious bidders will be watching and will put last minute electronic bids anyway ... WHO might the new owner be?? Any side bets (those proceeds would go to the charity of course ...) on final sale price?? Over 4100 viewing this auction, and over 188 active watchers Go to eBay and enter item Number 250558126708 or click on this link for eBay details http://tinyurl.com/yjxnxha Good Luck, Happy Bidding!! Cheers! Glenn Merrell TSN Admin TTA Charity Drive 2009 North American Coordinator -- Glenn Merrell TSN Admin http://www.triumphstag.net mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 12 18:07:26 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 20:07:26 EST Subject: [TR] List donations Message-ID: 'Cause we're all a bit odd, aren't we? In a message dated 1/12/2010 5:13:36 PM Central Standard Time, dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes: > Why the odd amounts? > > Paul Dorsey 60 Tr3 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Caldwell" > > >Interestingly, while Mark B suggests the Spridget listers donate > >$12.75, and Triumph listers $11.47, he hasn't suggested $18.00 for > >the MG lsiters or $29.12 for the Healey listers...... From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 12 18:12:53 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 20:12:53 EST Subject: [TR] Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy Message-ID: In a message dated 1/12/2010 6:41:49 PM Central Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > I usually get worried when I see "round nut" and "square hole" in the > same sentence. > Which one are you? From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 12 19:03:33 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 18:03:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] tr3 on ebay Message-ID: <681985.27876.qm@web111613.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> very interesting dash on this car http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR3-B-Project-Car_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQha shZitem3efbe0a411QQitemZ270513775633QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks FYI Frank From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jan 12 19:15:30 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 19:15:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] List donations In-Reply-To: References: <201001121306906.SM01188@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Message-ID: <4B4D2CC2.8000005@bradakis.com> Paul Dorsey wrote: > Why the odd amounts? > Those "odd" amounts are the displacments, in cubic centimeters, of engines related to the list topic. Sure, I'd love to have Spitfire owners donate $1,147 at a time, but $11.47 is more likely. mjb. From pcaffrey at ymail.com Tue Jan 12 19:39:24 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 18:39:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] List donations In-Reply-To: <4B4D2CC2.8000005@bradakis.com> References: <201001121306906.SM01188@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> <4B4D2CC2.8000005@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <117254.71827.qm@web59711.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> This is brilliant, MJB. You must be a scholar....My check's in the mail as soon as I figure out an appropriate amount for a TR4A engine with upgraded 87mm pistons. Regardless, it'll be inexpensive for all the worthwhile information/discussions that are posted on this site! Pat TR4A '67 ________________________________ From: Mark J Bradakis To: spridgets ; Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, January 12, 2010 6:15:30 PM Subject: Re: [TR] List donations Paul Dorsey wrote: > Why the odd amounts? > Those "odd" amounts are the displacments, in cubic centimeters, of engines related to the list topic. Sure, I'd love to have Spitfire owners donate $1,147 at a time, but $11.47 is more likely. mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Jan 12 20:33:45 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 21:33:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] List donations In-Reply-To: <117254.71827.qm@web59711.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <201001121306906.SM01188@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> <4B4D2CC2.8000005@bradakis.com> <117254.71827.qm@web59711.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100113033409.10A4A18766B@autox.team.net> That would be $21.38 (or $2138.00, take your pick). :) - Tony Drews At 08:39 PM 1/12/2010, P Caffrey wrote: >This is brilliant, MJB. You must be a scholar....My check's in the mail as >soon as I figure out an appropriate amount for a TR4A engine with upgraded >87mm pistons. Regardless, it'll be inexpensive for all the worthwhile >information/discussions that are posted on this site! >Pat > >TR4A '67 >________________________________ >From: Mark J Bradakis >To: >spridgets ; Triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Tue, >January 12, 2010 6:15:30 PM >Subject: Re: [TR] List donations > >Paul Dorsey >wrote: > > Why the odd amounts? > > >Those "odd" amounts are the displacments, in >cubic centimeters, of engines related >to the list topic. Sure, I'd love to >have Spitfire owners donate $1,147 at a time, but >$11.47 is more likely. > >mjb. From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Jan 12 20:42:56 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 22:42:56 EST Subject: [TR] List donations Message-ID: <1c219.48895396.387e9b40@aol.com> Tony, isn't it more like $21.88 with the 87mm pistons? $21.38 would be a stock 3B/4 engine with 86mm pistons. Me? I'm wishing for an early Herald list ($9.48) or maybe even a very early Standard 8 list ($8.03). ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) In a message dated 1/12/2010 10:38:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tony at tonydrews.com writes: That would be $21.38 (or $2138.00, take your pick). :) - Tony Drews At 08:39 PM 1/12/2010, P Caffrey wrote: >This is brilliant, MJB. You must be a scholar....My check's in the mail as >soon as I figure out an appropriate amount for a TR4A engine with upgraded >87mm pistons. Regardless, it'll be inexpensive for all the worthwhile >information/discussions that are posted on this site! >Pat From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Jan 12 20:51:27 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 21:51:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] List donations In-Reply-To: <1c219.48895396.387e9b40@aol.com> References: <1c219.48895396.387e9b40@aol.com> Message-ID: <20100113035146.EBCA218766E@autox.team.net> From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Jan 12 20:52:12 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 21:52:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR-3/4 main cap bolts / ARP Message-ID: <20100113035228.EF04418766E@autox.team.net> Anyone have info on dimensions for TR-4 main cap bolts? The manual shows 1/2" UNC but not the length. I'm trying to figure out what ARP bolts you would buy to replace the stock bolts, and also one that's 1/2" longer to allow for "strapping" the center main. If I had the dimensions (length) I could try to cross reference the engines that ARP lists main cap bolts for. Thanks in advance, Tony Drews From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jan 12 20:54:14 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 20:54:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] List donations In-Reply-To: <1c219.48895396.387e9b40@aol.com> References: <1c219.48895396.387e9b40@aol.com> Message-ID: <4B4D43E6.6050105@bradakis.com> Actually the Triumph folks should be glad I like Spitfires and am not into the TR-8! mjb. From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Jan 12 20:55:07 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 21:55:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] List donations In-Reply-To: <20100113035146.EBCA218766E@autox.team.net> References: <1c219.48895396.387e9b40@aol.com> <20100113035146.EBCA218766E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20100113035532.E187218766B@autox.team.net> OK that really said this: Hunh. I've been filling out the displacement on the race entries incorrectly it seems. I had remembered 2188 as well but "everyone else" lists their motors at 2138... Interesting. - Tony Must have been bit by a smiley icon or something. At 09:51 PM 1/12/2010, you wrote: >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >http://www.team.net/archive From jhassall at blacksburg.net Tue Jan 12 21:09:26 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 23:09:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR-3/4 main cap bolts / ARP In-Reply-To: <20100113035228.EF04418766E@autox.team.net> References: <20100113035228.EF04418766E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4B4D4776.4020000@blacksburg.net> On 1/12/2010 10:52 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > Anyone have info on dimensions for TR-4 main cap bolts? The manual > shows 1/2" UNC but not the length. I'm trying to figure out what ARP > bolts you would buy to replace the stock bolts, and also one that's > 1/2" longer to allow for "strapping" the center main. If I had the > dimensions (length) I could try to cross reference the engines that > ARP lists main cap bolts for. Tony, 3.5 inches under the head. I can give you the ARP number tomorrow, but don't have access to my build log right now. jim > > Thanks in advance, > Tony Drews > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as jhassall at blacksburg.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 12 21:38:20 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 20:38:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] tr3 on ebay In-Reply-To: <681985.27876.qm@web111613.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <34.FE.17767.C3E4D4B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > very interesting dash on this car That link again, http://tinyurl.com/yzu3y6b Even more gauges than Bob Schaller used! (Although one of the holes appears to be empty, perhaps he didn't get around to installing the exhaust gas temperature gauge ) Randall From pcaffrey at ymail.com Tue Jan 12 21:47:06 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 20:47:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] List donations In-Reply-To: <20100113035532.E187218766B@autox.team.net> References: <1c219.48895396.387e9b40@aol.com> <20100113035146.EBCA218766E@autox.team.net> <20100113035532.E187218766B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <257710.31930.qm@web59711.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I like the suggested annual donation figure at the bottom of this page, Tony, after I got the choices. (My mouth, again, gets me into troubled waters.) The webmaster, I think MJB, runs a lean operation....Glad he's into Spitfires :-) Pat TR4A '67 ________________________________ From: Tony Drews To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, January 12, 2010 7:55:07 PM Subject: Re: [TR] List donations OK that really said this: Hunh. I've been filling out the displacement on the race entries incorrectly it seems. I had remembered 2188 as well but "everyone else" lists their motors at 2138... Interesting. - Tony Must have been bit by a smiley icon or something. At 09:51 PM 1/12/2010, you wrote: >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >http://www.team.net/archive Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 12 21:47:57 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 20:47:57 -0800 Subject: [TR] Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy In-Reply-To: <4B4CD070.9406.A9A9BE1@localhost> Message-ID: > I usually get worried when I see "round nut" and "square hole" in the > same sentence. Well deserved concern, in this case, Jim. But if it were a square nut in a square hole, it would be even harder to turn! BTW, doesn't your Spitfire use something similar? Or don't you have OD with the switch in the shift knob? Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jan 12 23:22:45 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 01:22:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy In-Reply-To: References: <4B4CD070.9406.A9A9BE1@localhost> Message-ID: <4B4D2065.27292.BD2ED8E@localhost> On 12 Jan 2010 at 20:47, Randall wrote: > BTW, doesn't your Spitfire use something similar? Or don't you > have OD with the switch in the shift knob? Ah, the shift knob w/OD switch is locked with a jam nut beneath and a round washer-like nut above with notches on top. I suppose you could say it is in a square hole. Once the jam nut is loosened the nut on top can be turned with a tiny screwdriver or other small protruding device. From your question I infer that this is the round nut in a square hole you mentioned re the Stag. Sometime I feel like the nut myself. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From opposumking at verizon.net Wed Jan 13 05:51:35 2010 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 07:51:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy References: <20100112214028.8FF2924BA66@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: I knew I was in trouble when he got to the drawer full of nasty hose clamps that I'll never use again, but can't stand to throw out because you just never know. OK, so I skipped seeing Grand Tourismo, but I was strongly tempted. And I really had no idea what it was about, and didn't care. Oh the dreams I entertain while perusing the classifieds. How many times have I gone "WOW! Honey, look at this!". ----- Original Message ----- From: "don" To: Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 4:30 PM Subject: [TR] Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy >I just received latest copy of R&T magazine. I subscribe for > nostalgic reasons as most of the magazine is boring. The bright spot > in the magazine is always the column by Peter Egan. Subject starts > out on guys that change their own oil, and then goes on from > there. The article is on the R&T website and worth a read. > > Signs That You Might Be a Car Guy - Side Glances by Peter Egan > > http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/signs-that-you-might-be-a-car-guy > > > > > > > >>_________________________________________________________ >> >> >>Don Scott >>Calistoga CA >>2001 Miata SE BRG >>1967 TR4A >>1962 MGA Mk II >>1967 MGB (not quite yet) >> >>_______________________________________________ > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as opposumking at verizon.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 13 05:59:33 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 07:59:33 EST Subject: [TR] List donations Message-ID: <20b5.155f53a3.387f1db5@cs.com> In a message dated 1/12/2010 9:43:32 PM Central Standard Time, zoboherald at aol.com writes: > Me? I'm wishing for an early Herald list ($9.48) or maybe even a very > early > Standard 8 list ($8.03). ;-) > Andy, pull a couple spark plug wires and you owe $4.02. Since I own a TR3, a TR6 and a TR8 I figure I owe $81.30 Dave From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jan 13 06:22:04 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:22:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 on ebay In-Reply-To: <34.FE.17767.C3E4D4B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <34.FE.17767.C3E4D4B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <1E856CFF8E394BEFBB867FD19DBF8CF0@CarlPC> I wonder what they all are. and the cobbled area left of the tach - ouch. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 11:38 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 on ebay >> very interesting dash on this car > > That link again, > http://tinyurl.com/yzu3y6b From wensley_tr at comcast.net Wed Jan 13 06:28:16 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:28:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] List donations In-Reply-To: <20100113033409.10A4A18766B@autox.team.net> References: <201001121306906.SM01188@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> <4B4D2CC2.8000005@bradakis.com> <117254.71827.qm@web59711.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <20100113033409.10A4A18766B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000f01ca9454$43998a20$cacc9e60$@net> Boy...Wait till he gets to the V8 guys Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 10:34 PM To: P Caffrey; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] List donations That would be $21.38 (or $2138.00, take your pick). :) - Tony Drews At 08:39 PM 1/12/2010, P Caffrey wrote: >This is brilliant, MJB. You must be a scholar....My check's in the mail as >soon as I figure out an appropriate amount for a TR4A engine with upgraded >87mm pistons. Regardless, it'll be inexpensive for all the worthwhile >information/discussions that are posted on this site! >Pat > >TR4A '67 >________________________________ >From: Mark J Bradakis >To: >spridgets ; Triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Tue, >January 12, 2010 6:15:30 PM >Subject: Re: [TR] List donations > >Paul Dorsey >wrote: > > Why the odd amounts? > > >Those "odd" amounts are the displacments, in >cubic centimeters, of engines related >to the list topic. Sure, I'd love to >have Spitfire owners donate $1,147 at a time, but >$11.47 is more likely. > >mjb. Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From adcronin at ameritech.net Wed Jan 13 06:41:16 2010 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 05:41:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR-3/4 main cap bolts / ARP In-Reply-To: <4B4D4776.4020000@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <615306.84777.qm@web81303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Gang, would hope this information is shared with the remainder of the list!! Regards, Dan Cronin --- On Tue, 1/12/10, J.C. Hassall wrote: From: J.C. Hassall Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3/4 main cap bolts / ARP To: "Tony Drews" Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net, jhassall at vt.edu Date: Tuesday, January 12, 2010, 11:09 PM On 1/12/2010 10:52 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > Anyone have info on dimensions for TR-4 main cap bolts? The manual shows 1/2" UNC but not the length. I'm trying to figure out what ARP bolts you would buy to replace the stock bolts, and also one that's 1/2" longer to allow for "strapping" the center main. If I had the dimensions (length) I could try to cross reference the engines that ARP lists main cap bolts for. Tony, 3.5 inches under the head. I can give you the ARP number tomorrow, but don't have access to my build log right now. jim > > Thanks in advance, > Tony Drews > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as jhassall at blacksburg.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Wed Jan 13 07:18:00 2010 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 09:18:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Voltage Regulator/generator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > The C40 (23 amp) generator has a step in the outer body, making it > larger > over the field coils than the C39 (19 amp) version. The body of > the C39 is > straight. The model number (C39 or C40) should also be stamped on > the unit > somewhere, but I'm not sure where offhand. Just checked my spare, if you have a TR3/4 it is on the top when viewed on the engine. It reads: LUCAS 22700 0 12V [preceded by a graphic that looks like a Y in a circle] C40 46 70 [an arrow for direction of rotation] Made In England So this is now on my Spring to do list; to swap it for the one in the car which is the older version. Allen 63 TR4 From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Jan 13 07:58:34 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 09:58:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] List donations In-Reply-To: <20b5.155f53a3.387f1db5@cs.com> References: <20b5.155f53a3.387f1db5@cs.com> Message-ID: <8CC6278036C9463-F70-E84A@webmail-d090.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: dave1massey at cs.com In a message dated 1/12/2010 9:43:32 PM Central Standard Time, zoboherald at aol.com writes: > Me? I'm wishing for an early Herald list ($9.48) or maybe even a very > early > Standard 8 list ($8.03). ;-) > Andy, pull a couple spark plug wires and you owe $4.02. ==AM== Or perhaps Mark would like to start a list for owners of Subaru 360 models? ;) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From mcgaheyrx at aol.com Wed Jan 13 08:03:22 2010 From: mcgaheyrx at aol.com (mcgaheyrx at aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 10:03:22 EST Subject: [TR] List donations Message-ID: <50d3.28c8c11e.387f3aba@aol.com> In a message dated 1/13/2010 8:28:22 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, wensley_tr at comcast.net writes: Boy...Wait till he gets to the V8 guys Ha Ha - fortunately the TR7/8 list is NOT on team.net - and has NEVER had any problem with aol Cheers, Jack Mc From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 13 11:10:47 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 13:10:47 EST Subject: [TR] List donations Message-ID: In a message dated 1/13/2010 8:58:45 AM Central Standard Time, zoboherald at aol.com writes: > -----Original Message----- > From: dave1massey at cs.com > > In a message dated 1/12/2010 9:43:32 PM Central Standard Time, > zoboherald at aol.com writes: > > Me? I'm wishing for an early Herald list ($9.48) or maybe even a very > > early > > Standard 8 list ($8.03). ;-) > > > > Andy, pull a couple spark plug wires and you owe $4.02. > > ==AM== > Or perhaps Mark would like to start a list for owners of Subaru 360 > models? ;) > > > > How about a list for your Triumph bicycle? Dave From jhassall at blacksburg.net Wed Jan 13 15:43:29 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 17:43:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR-3/4 main cap bolts / ARP In-Reply-To: <615306.84777.qm@web81303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <615306.84777.qm@web81303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B4E4C91.6020609@blacksburg.net> On 1/13/2010 8:41 AM, A Daniel Cronin wrote: > Gang, > would hope this information is shared with the remainder of the list!! > > Regards, > Dan Cronin > ARP bolts for the TR4 mains are HAR 3.500-5, while the washers are 200-8513. For folks who haven't used ARP hardware before, they recommend cycling (torque/loosen) new hardware 5 times before the final torque. jim > > > --- On *Tue, 1/12/10, J.C. Hassall //* wrote: > > > From: J.C. Hassall > Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3/4 main cap bolts / ARP > To: "Tony Drews" > Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net, jhassall at vt.edu > Date: Tuesday, January 12, 2010, 11:09 PM > > On 1/12/2010 10:52 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > Anyone have info on dimensions for TR-4 main cap bolts? The > manual shows 1/2" UNC but not the length. I'm trying to figure > out what ARP bolts you would buy to replace the stock bolts, and > also one that's 1/2" longer to allow for "strapping" the center > main. If I had the dimensions (length) I could try to cross > reference the engines that ARP lists main cap bolts for. > > Tony, 3.5 inches under the head. I can give you the ARP number > tomorrow, but don't have access to my build log right now. > > jim > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From mmarr at notwires.com Wed Jan 13 13:28:31 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 14:28:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] List donations References: <201001121306906.SM01188@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com><4B4D2CC2.8000005@bradakis.com><117254.71827.qm@web59711.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><20100113033409.10A4A18766B@autox.team.net> <000f01ca9454$43998a20$cacc9e60$@net> Message-ID: <53F4704593CD43FC999D32C0FB52559B@trigeni.com> Or the engine for the original Spitfire - the Merlin at $270.00! Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig" To: "'Tony Drews'" ; "'P Caffrey'" ; Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 7:28 AM Subject: Re: [TR] List donations > Boy...Wait till he gets to the V8 guys > > Craig > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews > Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 10:34 PM > To: P Caffrey; Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] List donations > > That would be $21.38 (or $2138.00, take your pick). :) > > - Tony Drews > > At 08:39 PM 1/12/2010, P Caffrey wrote: >>This is brilliant, MJB. You must be a scholar....My check's in the mail >>as >>soon as I figure out an appropriate amount for a TR4A engine with upgraded >>87mm pistons. Regardless, it'll be inexpensive for all the worthwhile >>information/discussions that are posted on this site! >>Pat >> >>TR4A '67 >>________________________________ >>From: Mark J Bradakis >>To: >>spridgets ; Triumphs at autox.team.net >>Sent: Tue, >>January 12, 2010 6:15:30 PM >>Subject: Re: [TR] List donations >> >>Paul Dorsey >>wrote: >> > Why the odd amounts? >> > >>Those "odd" amounts are the displacments, in >>cubic centimeters, of engines related >>to the list topic. Sure, I'd love to >>have Spitfire owners donate $1,147 at a time, but >>$11.47 is more likely. >> >>mjb. > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From jhassall at blacksburg.net Wed Jan 13 19:23:53 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 21:23:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR-3/4 main cap bolts / ARP In-Reply-To: <4B4E4C91.6020609@blacksburg.net> References: <615306.84777.qm@web81303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4B4E4C91.6020609@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <4B4E8039.3010908@blacksburg.net> On 1/13/2010 5:43 PM, J.C. Hassall wrote: > ARP bolts for the TR4 mains are HAR 3.500-5, while the washers are > 200-8513. > > For folks who haven't used ARP hardware before, they recommend cycling > (torque/loosen) new hardware 5 times before the final torque. > > jim > > Crap, I meant to mention that the 5 cycle issue is only for the first time ARP hardware is used with old threads. Also, the torque for the mains is 95 lb-ft. jim >> --- On *Tue, 1/12/10, J.C. Hassall //* wrote: >> >> >> From: J.C. Hassall >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3/4 main cap bolts / ARP >> To: "Tony Drews" >> Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net, jhassall at vt.edu >> Date: Tuesday, January 12, 2010, 11:09 PM >> >> On 1/12/2010 10:52 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >> > Anyone have info on dimensions for TR-4 main cap bolts? The >> manual shows 1/2" UNC but not the length. I'm trying to figure >> out what ARP bolts you would buy to replace the stock bolts, and >> also one that's 1/2" longer to allow for "strapping" the center >> main. If I had the dimensions (length) I could try to cross >> reference the engines that ARP lists main cap bolts for. >> >> Tony, 3.5 inches under the head. I can give you the ARP number >> tomorrow, but don't have access to my build log right now. >> >> jim >> >> -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Thu Jan 14 08:53:57 2010 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 08:53:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] TTA Stag - Uncle Jack is SOLD!!!! Message-ID: <4B4F3E15.5010801@triumphstagclub.org> *TTA Stag - Uncle Jack is SOLD!!!!* Posted by: *StagByTriumph* Date: 01/14/2010 08:52AM Hello All, The eBay auction of uncle Jack is now complete, and ... The new owners of Uncle Jack are ... (drum roll ....) Phil and Susan Ethier of St. Paul Minnesota!! Their completion of this auction will finish a grand total of about $45,000 being raised for the three PTSD Charities! Congratulations Phil and Susan, and huge THANK YOU for all the clubs and dedicated individuals who made this event a success!! Job Well Done!! (so .... wot's next?) Glenn Merrell TTA Charity Drive 2009 North American Coordinator Glenn A. Merrell TriumphStag dot Net administrator TTA North American Coordinator (2007-2009) past Chairman TSC USA (2007-2009) past TSC USA President (2001-2007) "The BEST trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield." 8) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 14 17:54:18 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 18:54:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <6fa72a771001100854q166aef1dy119f9f0301479801@mail.gmail.com> References: <6fa72a771001100854q166aef1dy119f9f0301479801@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <0D7264BFE5554A4A82997266B6075758@ranteer.local> I see a product called evans waterless coolant; I suspect there are other brands. anyone use it? familiar with it? know anything about it? obviously it has no water; rust is no longer a problem, and supposedly never needs to be changed. in our cars that might be nice, although usually I seem to change my coolant because it ends up on the highway . . . . From fishplate at charter.net Thu Jan 14 18:33:00 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 17:33:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <0D7264BFE5554A4A82997266B6075758@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <20100114203300.SHIJ5.2235735.root@mp11> ---- oliver wrote: > I see a product called evans waterless coolant; I suspect there are other > brands. > > anyone use it? familiar with it? know anything about it? Used to be the stock coolant in Volkswagens back in the day... From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Jan 14 19:09:30 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 02:09:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <20100114203300.SHIJ5.2235735.root@mp11> Message-ID: <584305780.10700011263521370062.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> i use it. works well, but will run slightly hotter (just five or so degrees)B B unless the thinner racing coolant is used.B freezes at liquid hydrogen level, and boils at 375F.B if you use it, remember to mod your cooling system to have a zero pressure system.B makes for much longer hose life, too! ray ----- Original Message ----- From: fishplate at charter.net To: "6 Pack list" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "list Triumph" Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 7:33:00 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant ---- oliver wrote: > I see a product called evans waterless coolant; I suspect there are other > brands. > > anyone use it? B familiar with it? B know anything about it? Used to be the stock coolant in Volkswagens back in the day... Suggested annual donation B $11.47 You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From mdporter at dfn.com Thu Jan 14 19:28:39 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 19:28:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <007e01ca9587$2ba1d470$82e57d50$@edu> References: <0D7264BFE5554A4A82997266B6075758@ranteer.local> <20100114203300.SHIJ5.2235735.root@mp11> <007e01ca9587$2ba1d470$82e57d50$@edu> Message-ID: <4B4FD2D7.50202@dfn.com> Kevin McNelis wrote: > Maybe I'm being a bit dense here, but didn't old VWs use AIR as a coolant?? > > Oh, yes, true for the pre-1980 engines in Bugs and vans, but, I think the reference is to the so-called Wasserboxer engines in the Vanagons. Those engines initially used a water/glycol mix which encouraged corrosion in the aluminum alloy used in the block and heads, which largely showed up as erosion of the material in the seal lands and leakage around the coolant o-ring seals between block and head. Thus a revised coolant (and block material, I think) to correct the problem. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From fishplate at charter.net Thu Jan 14 19:53:06 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 21:53:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <4B4FD2D7.50202@dfn.com> References: <0D7264BFE5554A4A82997266B6075758@ranteer.local> <20100114203300.SHIJ5.2235735.root@mp11> <007e01ca9587$2ba1d470$82e57d50$@edu> <4B4FD2D7.50202@dfn.com> Message-ID: At 09:28 PM 1/14/2010, Michael Porter wrote: >Kevin McNelis wrote: >>Maybe I'm being a bit dense here, but didn't old VWs use AIR as a coolant?? >> >> >Oh, yes, true for the pre-1980 engines in Bugs and vans, but, I >think the reference is to the so-called Wasserboxer engines in the Vanagons. No, the reference was to air, which we Engineers confusingly call a fluid.... Oh, well... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Jan 14 20:36:37 2010 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 19:36:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] CraigsList Spitfire Engine an Transmission Message-ID: <4B4FE2C5.4030604@comcast.net> This looks like a great opportunity for someone in the Spitfire community: http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/1552079052.html It looks to be complete and in good condition. Mike TS111544L From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jan 14 21:07:32 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 21:07:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TTA Stag - Uncle Jack is SOLD!!!! In-Reply-To: <4B4F3E15.5010801@triumphstagclub.org> References: <4B4F3E15.5010801@triumphstagclub.org> Message-ID: <40ED89703E414679A545B7181D61832F@bboffice> Congratulations Phil & Sue, this car could not have a better home than yours!! I suppose you are going to have to add-on to the garage now? All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn A. Merrell - TSN Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 8:54 AM To: Triumph Triumph list; Spitfires Mail ListMembers; TR8 Mail List Members; 6-Pack Subject: [TR] TTA Stag - Uncle Jack is SOLD!!!! *TTA Stag - Uncle Jack is SOLD!!!!* Posted by: *StagByTriumph* Date: 01/14/2010 08:52AM Hello All, The eBay auction of uncle Jack is now complete, and ... The new owners of Uncle Jack are ... (drum roll ....) Phil and Susan Ethier of St. Paul Minnesota!! Their completion of this auction will finish a grand total of about $45,000 being raised for the three PTSD Charities! Congratulations Phil and Susan, and huge THANK YOU for all the clubs and dedicated individuals who made this event a success!! Job Well Done!! (so .... wot's next?) Glenn Merrell TTA Charity Drive 2009 North American Coordinator Glenn A. Merrell TriumphStag dot Net administrator TTA North American Coordinator (2007-2009) past Chairman TSC USA (2007-2009) past TSC USA President (2001-2007) "The BEST trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield." 8) Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 14 22:12:08 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 21:12:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <93.70.19543.829FF4B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > No, the reference was to air, which we Engineers confusingly > call a fluid.... If it's any consolation, Jeff, that's what I thought you meant. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jan 15 05:37:13 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 07:37:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <93.70.19543.829FF4B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: Message-ID: <4B501B29.15159.71BAA2A@localhost> > No, the reference was to air, which we Engineers confusingly > call a fluid.... Waitaminute. You're saying I could cool my engine with the same stuff I put in my tires? That guy Evans must have cooked up something really special. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Jan 15 07:00:03 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 09:00:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] radiator shop in Jax, FL (not really Triumph related) References: <4B501B29.15159.71BAA2A@localhost> Message-ID: Anyone have a good radiator repair shop in Jacksonville, Fl - actually Mandarin... Son's Dodge is in need and I can't help. TIA Tom From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jan 15 09:53:12 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 16:53:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TTA Stag - Uncle Jack is SOLD!!!! In-Reply-To: <40ED89703E414679A545B7181D61832F@bboffice> Message-ID: <1288025979.12211171263574392594.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Congratulations Phil & Sue, this car could not have a better home > than > yours!! I suppose you are going to have to add-on to the garage now? > > All the best, > Bill Beecher No, Bill, we are going to have to cut back. The Miata and the TR4 are looking for new homes. It's just nuts for two sexagenarians in Minnesota to have 6 cars and a four-car garage. I don't have a place to put a Garage Mahal like yours! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1994 Miata C-package 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 And, come the spring season, 1973 Triumph Stag "Uncle Jack" http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 15 10:08:25 2010 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 17:08:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] TTA Stag - Uncle Jack is SOLD!!!! In-Reply-To: <40ED89703E414679A545B7181D61832F@bboffice> References: <4B4F3E15.5010801@triumphstagclub.org>, <40ED89703E414679A545B7181D61832F@bboffice> Message-ID: So what was the final sale price for Uncle Jack? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390707/direct/01/ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 15 10:17:48 2010 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 17:17:48 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <4B501B29.15159.71BAA2A@localhost> References: , <4B501B29.15159.71BAA2A@localhost> Message-ID: >Waitaminute. You're saying I could cool my engine with the samestuff I put in my tires? I didn't know that nitrogen had cooling properties. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390706/direct/01/ From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Jan 15 10:27:25 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 12:27:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: References: , , <4B501B29.15159.71BAA2A@localhost>, Message-ID: In liquid form, you betcha! It's like minus 300F. Marty > From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > To: jimmuller at rcn.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 17:17:48 +0000 > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant > > >Waitaminute. You're saying I could cool my engine with the samestuff I put > in my tires? > > I didn't know that nitrogen had cooling properties. > > Best regards, > Tom > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390706/direct/01/ > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390709/direct/01/ From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jan 15 10:38:31 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 12:38:31 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant Message-ID: <20100115123831.AFX12790@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Marty wrote: > > I didn't know that nitrogen had cooling properties. > In liquid form, you betcha! It's like minus 300F. So the trick would seem to be keeping it in liquid form. How much pressure can your tires sustain? :-) -- Jim Muller (Yeah, I understand PV = NRT and all that, including when it doesn't apply.) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 15 11:01:03 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 10:01:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: References: , <4B501B29.15159.71BAA2A@localhost> Message-ID: <4388FE959D904D1C8762E0C0841F4701@jdnet.deere.com> > I didn't know that nitrogen had cooling properties. Sure it does! I use a mixture of mostly nitrogen to cool all my cars, don't you? -- Randall From opposumking at verizon.net Fri Jan 15 12:40:53 2010 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 14:40:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant References: <4B501B29.15159.71BAA2A@localhost> Message-ID: <88C728C5E421466A993FA42A865211BB@mde.state.md.us> > Waitaminute. You're saying I could cool my engine with the same > stuff I put in my tires? Well, it works for Volkwagons and Porsche. In all sincerity though, all engines are ultimately cooled by air. From dkspence at telus.net Fri Jan 15 14:22:16 2010 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 14:22:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 18 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <019406BC-787F-4553-BFE6-E442F72494AD@telus.net> Michael Well it is true that Vanagon and 914 prosches suffered from regular antifreeze they did just fine on a phosphorus free antifreeze/water blend. It was the phosphorus that corroded the aluminum. I believe the earlier reference was a tongue in cheek reference to air cooled VWs. On 15-Jan-10, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: Michael Porter > Date: January 14, 2010 7:28:39 PM MST (CA) > To: Kevin McNelis > Cc: Triumph' , '6 Pack list' > <6pack at autox.team.net>, 'list > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant > > > Kevin McNelis wrote: >> Maybe I'm being a bit dense here, but didn't old VWs use AIR as a >> coolant?? >> >> > Oh, yes, true for the pre-1980 engines in Bugs and vans, but, I > think the reference is to the so-called Wasserboxer engines in the > Vanagons. Those engines initially used a water/glycol mix which > encouraged corrosion in the aluminum alloy used in the block and > heads, which largely showed up as erosion of the material in the > seal lands and leakage around the coolant o-ring seals between > block and head. > > Thus a revised coolant (and block material, I think) to correct the > problem. > > > Cheers. > > -- > > > Michael Porter From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Jan 15 16:12:37 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 18:12:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant References: , <4B501B29.15159.71BAA2A@localhost> <4388FE959D904D1C8762E0C0841F4701@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: This whole topic is a bunch of Hot Air! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 1:01 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant >> I didn't know that nitrogen had cooling properties. > > Sure it does! I use a mixture of mostly nitrogen to cool all my cars, > don't > you? > > -- Randall > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as jerryvv at roadrunner.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 270.14.144/2625 - Release Date: 01/15/10 19:35:00 From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Jan 16 12:42:37 2010 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 12:42:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Phoenix Wheels of Britain 2010 Message-ID: I received an e-mail about registering for the PHX Wheels of Britain 2010 and I have managed to lose it. :-( Is there anyone on the list who can forward me that announcement? Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From jeremiah at curryclan.net Sat Jan 16 14:51:09 2010 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 14:51:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] signals don't work In-Reply-To: References: <1A84BD4B5F134AE7B67C1D4E5F597192@maximum7> Message-ID: Just wanted to report that I got it working. Replacing the blinker module with a generic one from checker made the lights blink at the proper speed. Then I ran new wires from the front of the car back to the trunk for the signal lights. Now all of the lights work! Thanks everyone and expecially Randall for your help. Now I just need to replace the windshield, attach the bonnet with new hinges, and mount the front bumper and I think I will be ready for a safety inspection. Jeremiah -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 9:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] signals don't work > The lights appear like those in the picture at > http://www.magma.ca/~tboiscla/TR3A_RrTrLid.jpg except that > the center light > is not chromed and runs with the running lights. I have the > wiring so the > lights on the outside are running lights, and brake lights, > the center light > is a running light and license plate light, and the two in > between are what > I am trying to use as signals. From what I have read, that > is probably > correct, though unanticipated on a car this old. My apologies, Jeremiah, I read the line for UK cars instead of US. You are correct, your car should have the separate turn signals (assuming it is a US model). Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Sat Jan 16 15:14:16 2010 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 17:14:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Aircooled Message-ID: Vanagons maybe, but not 914s. I have a 914 engine sitting in my garage right now that I hope to put in my VW bus (someday, in my spare time HAHAHAHA) and it's definitely aircooled. Fuel injected though, so that's pretty cool. 80 hp from 1700 cc, instead of 68 hp from the carb version - almost sounds like it could be enough, till you realize you're pushing a great rectangular block through the air. Although, the bay window bus has less drag coefficient (is that what it's called? like, wind resistance divided by frontal area?) than a beetle. So they say. Jim =============================== From: Don Spence Michael Well it is true that Vanagon and 914 prosches suffered from regular antifreeze they did just fine on a phosphorus free antifreeze/water blend. It was the phosphorus that corroded the aluminum. I believe the earlier reference was a tongue in cheek reference to air cooled VWs. From zoboherald at aol.com Sat Jan 16 20:55:40 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 22:55:40 EST Subject: [TR] TR 3 Voltage Regulator Message-ID: <10a0b.3a46dce8.3883e43c@aol.com> In a message dated 1/12/2010 3:07:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: For the control box, I vaguely recall that the field resistor changed value; but I don't have the information handy at the moment. Perhaps Andy does? ==AM== Sorry to take so long to get back to this! Apparently that was not the case, if I read my Lucas Master Catalogue correctly. It shows "63 Ohms" for the field resistance on 37182 and the superceded early 37138 regulators, as well as the later 37283 and 37290 regulators. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) From smacsjunk at hotmail.com Sat Jan 16 21:29:11 2010 From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 22:29:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <4388FE959D904D1C8762E0C0841F4701@jdnet.deere.com> References: , , <4B501B29.15159.71BAA2A@localhost>, , <4388FE959D904D1C8762E0C0841F4701@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant > > > I didn't know that nitrogen had cooling properties. > > Sure it does! I use a mixture of mostly nitrogen to cool all my cars, don't you? :-) Scott Still contributing daily to the heat death of the universe. Entropy. You can't win. You can't even break even. So might as well enjoy the ride. _________________________________________________________________ From robertko at charter.net Sun Jan 17 07:40:01 2010 From: robertko at charter.net (robertko at charter.net) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 9:40:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100117094001.GELFU.2321242.root@mp12> Surpisingly this same mixture of mostly nitrogen can be used to keep tires inflated and cooled! A cost effective means of getting the benefits of nitrogen without paying the high costs of pure nitrogen. ;) ---- scotts junk wrote: > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant > > > I didn't know that nitrogen had cooling properties. > > Sure it does! I use a mixture of mostly nitrogen to cool all my cars, don't you? :-) Scott Still contributing daily to the heat death of the universe. Entropy. You can't win. You can't even break even. So might as well enjoy the ride. _________________________________________________________________ Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as robertko at charter.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Jan 17 08:05:54 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 10:05:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Windscreen Installation Message-ID: <4AD5058146B3426FA1571CD3DEC19492@Scott> I have gotten around to installing the windscreen on my '59 TR3A and have run into a problem that I am a bit stumped by. The frame and stanchions are original to the car and were rechromed a number of years ago. I replaced the glass and glazing. I had to file down the guide plates a bit to get the stanchions to fit into the guides. With the guide plates installed and the stanchions installed, with the dzus fasteners, there is still a bit of a gap between the body and the stanchions. Not really noticeable but on the passenger side there is consistent light. Here is where it gets really frustrating. When I attach the windscreen to the stanchions, it pushes the stanchions away from the body so that there is not a noticeable gap between the body and where the stanchion is to seal up against the body. When I measure the distance between the screw points on the stanchions without the windscreen installed, and then measure the same points on the windscreen, there is consistently a 1/4" difference, with the windscreen being wider, thus pushing out the stanchions when installed. I see no indication that the stanchions are bent in any way and I can't believe that the new chrome would make that much of a difference. There was not body work done in this area either. Any thoughts or ideas, BTDT would be greatly appreciated. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From lbc.resto at verizon.net Sun Jan 17 08:26:23 2010 From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 10:26:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Rear Suspension Message-ID: <5190B355EC784512B51D610D883EBB93@RAS> This winter's project is the rear suspension. The leaf springs came off real easy and I will be fitting the upgraded bushings. I had also noticed that one of the lever shocks was leaking. If I am going to fork out for rebuilt lever shocks and the links, I am wondering if I should try the TR4 rear tube shock conversion kit instead. Anyone done it, or know someone who has? Pros / Cons (I'm not worried about originality). I know there is feedback on the IRS version and I believe that it has caused some structural problems. Also, I'm wondering if the cart spring version has been designed for ride comfort or a firmer ride. -- Ian 62 TR4 From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Jan 17 09:13:03 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 11:13:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Welcome to vtr2010.org In-Reply-To: <01d501ca964a$08c70f10$1a552d30$@com> References: <01d501ca964a$08c70f10$1a552d30$@com> Message-ID: Check out the awesome video they put together for this years event. I feel like I should send them a check for all the footage they included of my car. Great job Ronnie! http://vtr2010.org/Home_Page.php Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390707/direct/01/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 17 10:20:28 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 09:20:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Windscreen Installation In-Reply-To: <4AD5058146B3426FA1571CD3DEC19492@Scott> Message-ID: <71.91.19578.CD6435B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > With the guide plates > installed and the > stanchions installed, with the dzus fasteners, there is still > a bit of a gap > between the body and the stanchions. Scott, I've never tried installing just the stanchions without the windscreen; but I believe there should be a small gap between the stanchions and the body. Otherwise, they will rub the paint off as the body flexes (and it does flex). There is a channel inside the curve of the stanchions, that is supposed to receive some sort of packing for water sealing. Here's a shot of the area on my (very dirty at the time) TR3: http://tinyurl.com/yzofdcr Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jan 17 18:09:25 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 20:09:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <20100117094001.GELFU.2321242.root@mp12> References: Message-ID: <4B536E75.25139.599762F@localhost> On 17 Jan 2010 at 9:40, robertko at charter.net wrote: > Surpisingly this same mixture of mostly nitrogen can be used to > keep tires inflated and cooled! A cost effective means of getting > the benefits of nitrogen without paying the high costs of pure > nitrogen. ;) Yeah, but the really cheap stuff is only about 78% or so notrogen, isn't it? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Jan 17 19:40:52 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 21:40:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Windscreen Installation In-Reply-To: <71.91.19578.CD6435B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <4AD5058146B3426FA1571CD3DEC19492@Scott> <71.91.19578.CD6435B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <9D30B97D6E32490FA212CC088E24D1F3@Scott> Thanks Randall. Yes, I can see the noted channel on mine but was not aware that a packing would go there, but this would certainly help seal the spacing so noted. I would assume some form of silicon gasket would be best, such as The Right Stuff, so as to remain flexible and to seal out water. I am still concerned with the variance in measurements with the windscreen and the stanchions. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 12:20 PM To: 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Windscreen Installation > With the guide plates > installed and the > stanchions installed, with the dzus fasteners, there is still > a bit of a gap > between the body and the stanchions. Scott, I've never tried installing just the stanchions without the windscreen; but I believe there should be a small gap between the stanchions and the body. Otherwise, they will rub the paint off as the body flexes (and it does flex). There is a channel inside the curve of the stanchions, that is supposed to receive some sort of packing for water sealing. Here's a shot of the area on my (very dirty at the time) TR3: http://tinyurl.com/yzofdcr Randall From pethier at comcast.net Sun Jan 17 20:15:02 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 03:15:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Welcome to vtr2010.org In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <987547759.12960331263784502362.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "marty sukey" wrote: > Check out the awesome video they put together for this years event. I > feel > like I should send them a check for all the footage they included of > my car. > Great job Ronnie! > > > http://vtr2010.org/Home_Page.php Yes, they rolled this out at the 2009 VTR in SLO. Very impressive on the big screen. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1994 Miata C-package 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From dkspence at telus.net Sun Jan 17 23:25:41 2010 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 23:25:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <12BE9305-8EE4-4422-A72A-685200475BF1@telus.net> Speaking of Nitrogen, Shell is marketing nitrogen enriched gasoline. Anyone know what the supposed advantage is? I thought nitrogen was inert. On 16-Jan-10, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "Jerry Van Vlack" > Date: January 15, 2010 4:12:37 PM MST (CA) > To: "Randall" , > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant > > > This whole topic is a bunch of Hot Air! > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" > To: > Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 1:01 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] waterless coolant > > >>> I didn't know that nitrogen had cooling properties. >> >> Sure it does! I use a mixture of mostly nitrogen to cool all my >> cars, don't >> you? >> >> -- Randall From mdporter at dfn.com Mon Jan 18 00:10:06 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 00:10:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <12BE9305-8EE4-4422-A72A-685200475BF1@telus.net> References: <12BE9305-8EE4-4422-A72A-685200475BF1@telus.net> Message-ID: <4B54094E.2020004@dfn.com> Don wrote: > Speaking of Nitrogen, Shell is marketing nitrogen enriched gasoline. > Anyone know what the supposed advantage is? > > > I thought nitrogen was inert. > > > Nope, nitrogen is not inert. It forms covalent bonds with other elements (the "nitrate" in sodium nitrate is, for example, is nitrogen bonding covalently with oxygen to form the nitrate radical NO3-. As for Shell's formulation, from what I read, it's just a higher level of detergent than is typical, and is specifically meant to reduce carbon deposits. Only way to know if it works is to run it for an extended period against some known standard and measure the difference in carbon accumulation. The "nitrogen-enriched" business sounds like marketing razzmatazz. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 18 00:15:00 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 23:15:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <12BE9305-8EE4-4422-A72A-685200475BF1@telus.net> Message-ID: <10.98.19471.57A045B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Speaking of Nitrogen, Shell is marketing nitrogen enriched gasoline. > Anyone know what the supposed advantage is? Shell claims the nitrogen compounds improve detergency and reduce carbon buildup on intake valves. Probably whitens your teeth as well, not to mention the heartbreak of psoriasis. > I thought nitrogen was inert. Remember the OK city bombing? One of the main bomb ingredients was ammonium nitrate (a common fertilizer). However, it doesn't spontaneously combine with most metals (rust), so it is used sometimes to reduce corrosion. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jan 18 05:29:15 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 07:29:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <4B54094E.2020004@dfn.com> References: <12BE9305-8EE4-4422-A72A-685200475BF1@telus.net> Message-ID: <4B540DCB.172.807DBDD@localhost> On 18 Jan 2010 at 0:10, Michael Porter wrote: > > I thought nitrogen was inert. > Nope, nitrogen is not inert. > It forms covalent bonds with other elements (the "nitrate" > in sodium nitrate is, for example, is nitrogen bonding > covalently with oxygen to form the nitrate radical NO3-. Indeed. As a pure gas, which if memory serves is generally N2 though I wouldn't swear to it after so many years of breathing the stuff, it is relatively non-reactive. This is a good thing considering how much of it there is. But it does combine with other elements, including oxygen inside engines to produce NOx. > The "nitrogen-enriched" business sounds like marketing razzmatazz. Many years ago, seemingly a lifetime ago, I spent a week in Houston teaching Unix to a collection of folks at Texaco. In our off-time conversations the subject of gasoline differences between brands came up. They insisted that real differences did exist. Of course they felt theirs was better, as was predictable. Perhaps they had bought into their own company's marketing razzmatazz. But at least they as insiders believed it. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From triumphs at consolidated.net Mon Jan 18 16:37:05 2010 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 17:37:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] Chicago Swap Meet Message-ID: <532BEAED78D5478B99B83982937A67F7@0817C93C637E473> Does anyone know the dates for the Chicago Swap Meet, this year. It is usually in February. kg From dougjonesil at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 18 16:57:39 2010 From: dougjonesil at sbcglobal.net (Doug Jones) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 17:57:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] Chicago Swap Meet In-Reply-To: <532BEAED78D5478B99B83982937A67F7@0817C93C637E473> References: <532BEAED78D5478B99B83982937A67F7@0817C93C637E473> Message-ID: <7944E08A205D4CCD8377905C21F14D55@JONES> February 28, 2010 8:00AM - 3:00 PM Du Page County Fairgrounds - Wheaton IL Doug Jones 3W070 Spring Green Way Batavia, IL 60510 Home: 630 406-8720 Cell 847 344-2402 dougjonesil at sbcglobal.net -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ken Gano, home PC Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 5:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Chicago Swap Meet Does anyone know the dates for the Chicago Swap Meet, this year. It is usually in February. kg Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as dougjonesil at sbcglobal.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From triumph.driver at gmail.com Mon Jan 18 17:10:26 2010 From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 19:10:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Chicago Swap Meet In-Reply-To: <532BEAED78D5478B99B83982937A67F7@0817C93C637E473> References: <532BEAED78D5478B99B83982937A67F7@0817C93C637E473> Message-ID: <1A76F1BB9490409AB9B206B6B76FD680@chuck> Ken, If you're talking about the one in Wheaton, I'm showing it as Feb 28th from 8am - 3pm. POC is Jim Evans, (630) 868-8192, http://www.britishcarswap.info. Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: On Behalf Of Ken Gano, home PC Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 6:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Chicago Swap Meet Does anyone know the dates for the Chicago Swap Meet, this year. It is usually in February. kg From don at napanet.net Mon Jan 18 23:59:40 2010 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 22:59:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] car shows Message-ID: <20100119071051.C4CEA24DC06@mail.napanet.net> Earl's Court car show: http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=42775 1967 Motor Show in Paris: http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=44937 A Canadian friend just sent this to me and I did a little searching and found the videos of old car shows. There is a treasure here for British car nuts and Anglophiles: >http://www.britishpathe.com/index.php > >This site is highly recommended for viewing, but beware, it is very >addictive. It shows thousands of the 1-3 minute films that we used >to see at the cinema in long ago times. The films are mainly of the >1920s to 1960s with a few from earlier years. From gsfuqua1 at aol.com Tue Jan 19 01:46:13 2010 From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com (gsfuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 03:46:13 EST Subject: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents Message-ID: <45bd6.6f546e39.3886cb55@aol.com> I am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR 4's used. As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large checker board grill affect. The idea being to let some of the engine bay heat be carried out through the side wings or fenders. The fit flush with the side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gary From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 19 07:16:42 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 14:16:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <45bd6.6f546e39.3886cb55@aol.com> Message-ID: <1794323504.13478331263910602715.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> As I recall the works rally cars used Herald grill mesh. The whole assembly can be bought from one of the UK suppliers. Triumphtune? Rimmer? Revington? Sorry but it's still a little early for me. I always thought that these made a lot of sense and looked great, but I wanted to keep the TR4 legal for Stock class at VTR autocrosses. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1994 Miata C-package 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Tue Jan 19 07:21:54 2010 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 09:21:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? Message-ID: <4b55c002.67.598c.30153@cogeco.ca> Hi listers, On the right is a fan extension for a TS60000 era TR3A, on the left is a fan extension from ebay proporting to be for a TR2,3,4. I know if I were to install it on my car the fan would come into quick contact with the steering arm (if not the chassis brace), any idea what it's really for? http://picasaweb.google.ca/mcewena10/TimingChain?feat=email#5428229836982417426 From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Tue Jan 19 07:28:25 2010 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 09:28:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan balance piece Message-ID: <4b55c189.2ce.6c87.10724@cogeco.ca> Hi Listers, Just replaced the lower sprocket on the timing change, and am about to re-assemble the fan housing. I'm scratching my head on how the fan balance pieces (pictured below) acheive their stated goal? This is the old one btw, I bought a new kit. For one thing, it's mass is very small relative to the fan itself (let alone the 5lb extension) and for a second you'd have to know which quarter of the circle was out of balance before knowing which side to install it on. I can't think of any way of determining that to any degree of accuracy that this few ounces of metal would compensate for. Is it really just cosmetic? http://picasaweb.google.ca/mcewena10/TimingChain?feat=email#5428229937396055730 From rawanderer at comcast.net Tue Jan 19 08:23:54 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 15:23:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fwd: Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <1655496179.1544941263909288926.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <743718380.1601431263914634871.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: "Bob Wanderer" To: gsfuqua1 at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 8:54:48 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents Gary, I think one of the UK suppliers, probably Racetorations or Revington TR,B B may be able to help you out.B I think Rimmer Brothers is more like Moss or TRF and carries just the "usual stuff." Regards, BobW 1974 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com To: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, tony at tonydrews.com, N197TR4 at cs.com Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:46:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents I am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR B 4's used. B As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large B checker board grill affect. B The idea being to let some of the engine bay B heat be carried out through the side wings or fenders. B The fit flush with B the side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. B Any help would be greatly appreciated. B Cheers, Gary Suggested annual donation B $11.47 You are subscribed as rawanderer at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Jan 19 08:33:16 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 10:33:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <1794323504.13478331263910602715.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CC6733DA6FF3A3-36C0-4D5F@webmail-m063.sysops.aol.com> Correct, Phil. The grilles were cut down pieces from the Herald 948/1200, and it is Neil Revington that supplies kits. ISTR hearing somewhere that these vents ultimately proved more cosmetic than useful? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net As I recall the works rally cars used Herald grill mesh. The whole assembly can be bought from one of the UK suppliers. Triumphtune? Rimmer? Revington? Sorry but it's still a little early for me. From lbc.resto at verizon.net Tue Jan 19 08:48:03 2010 From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 10:48:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Rear Suspension In-Reply-To: <5190B355EC784512B51D610D883EBB93@RAS> References: <5190B355EC784512B51D610D883EBB93@RAS> Message-ID: <75BA141A73444C95B8958D84A608D703@RAS> Follow-up to my questions below. Moss told me that they have sold 16 of the TR4 rear tube shock conversion kits so far; would that be to any list members? I would appreciate any feedback on this particular modification to the solid axle cars. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 10:26 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Rear Suspension This winter's project is the rear suspension. The leaf springs came off real easy and I will be fitting the upgraded bushings. I had also noticed that one of the lever shocks was leaking. If I am going to fork out for rebuilt lever shocks and the links, I am wondering if I should try the TR4 rear tube shock conversion kit instead. Anyone done it, or know someone who has? Pros / Cons (I'm not worried about originality). I know there is feedback on the IRS version and I believe that it has caused some structural problems. Also, I'm wondering if the cart spring version has been designed for ride comfort or a firmer ride. -- Ian 62 TR4 Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as lbc.resto at verizon.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Jan 19 09:14:35 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 08:14:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] Limited slip group purchase Message-ID: <4B55DA6B.4090803@gmail.com> Here is the latest from Ken. I'm guessing we are looking at US$1400 per unit. If you want to get in on the group buy please contact Ken at British Frame & engine & provide him with a check for $700 plus the requested info about your car. Teriann -------- Original Message -------- Subject: lsd units Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 08:59:33 -0800 From: BFEKen at copper.net Reply-To: BFEKen at copper.net To: TeriAnn J. Wakeman *Teriann, Looks like the limited slip diff adventure is working out. First* *all orders will have to be in my possession by 2-15-10. With $700 down* *payment. On the 15 I will send to racetorations by bank transfer, the 50%* *I have collected & when the shipment is ready, I will notify every one* *of the amount remaining, which they will send to me. As this is an* *International transaction for Historic cars there will be no duty or VAT* *or so I am told.* *Special info. 1/ the TR6 uses the Trans-X without the center thrust button* * 2/Spitfire & gt-6 units are not made at this time. But the* *Brits use a unit called GRABBER which looks just like the Tran-X. It appeared about the time the patent ran out on the Salisbury & it looks* *just like it* ** *Deposits should be mailed to British Frame & engine 4831 Ryland aver* *temple City CA 91780 USA* *I understand from Racetorations that they also handle the Grabber. It is* *less money.* *When you send your deposit I will need your Name, address type of TR* *& the year. Plus your phone number.* ** *Ken* From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Jan 19 10:03:20 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 17:03:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? In-Reply-To: <4b55c002.67.598c.30153@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <1575219818.3226481263920600563.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I can't tell the length, but a buddy of mine with a TR3 mounted a TR6 yellow plastic fan. He had a machine shop remove 3/16" from the rear of the fan extension and 3/16" from the front of the extension for a total of 3/8" removed. That allowed for the yellow fan to fit in a forward direction, some have advocated mounting the fan backwards, anyway it's been on the car for a few years and works extremely well in the hot Florida summers. If this hub measures 3/8" shorter than the other, whatever it's for - it could be used as above. Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag Subject: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? Hi listers, On the right is a fan extension for a TS60000 era TR3A, on the left is a fan extension from ebay proporting to be for a TR2,3,4. I know if I were to install it on my car the fan would come into quick contact with the steering arm (if not the chassis brace), any idea what it's really for? http://picasaweb.google.ca/mcewena10/TimingChain?feat=email#5428229836982417426 _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 19 10:13:40 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 09:13:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan balance piece In-Reply-To: <4b55c189.2ce.6c87.10724@cogeco.ca> References: <4b55c189.2ce.6c87.10724@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: > I can't think of > any way of determining that to any degree of accuracy that > this few ounces of metal would compensate for. I used one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98488 The weights are to be fitted "as required", meaning you use as many of them as necessary to achieve balance. Oddly enough, mine balanced best with no weights at all. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 19 10:19:24 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 09:19:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? In-Reply-To: <4b55c002.67.598c.30153@cogeco.ca> References: <4b55c002.67.598c.30153@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: The one on the left appears to be an original TR2-3 extension; the one on the right looks like a TR4 unit to me. They are often fitted to the earlier cars when fitting one of the more aggressive (thicker) plastic fans from later TRs. Should be nowhere close to the cross brace; if it does hit the steering link then add a couple of shims to the motor mounts (or turn down the diameter of the extension). -- Randall From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Jan 19 10:53:19 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 11:53:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] Uprated Oil Pump TR-3/4 Message-ID: <20100119175344.00A881878A7@autox.team.net> I was talking with a group of my Triumph racing buddies, and we were discussing a new oil pump design for the TRactor motor (TR-3 / TR-4) that came out of the Chicago area Triumph club. I realized that I may not have properly promoted this product. Steve Yott (aka "Drippy") has developed an oil pump design based on the stock pump, but with some important modifications. The rotor and shaft are NOT two separate parts, but are one piece - eliminating one of the failure modes of these pumps. Also, the end cap has been machined to accept a new shaft sticking out of the bottom of the rotor - so the rotor is supported on BOTH ends, rather than the stock single end support. The end plate is pinned to the main housing so that the location of this bore is consistent upon disassembly and reassembly. The rotor has oil passages in key places ensuring that all of the moving parts ride in an oil bath so there is no metal on metal contact. Steve Yott is at tr4 at wi.rr.com . I believe the price for this was $225 with a core exchange. There are two primary failure modes of the stock oil pump. One mode is the tangs breaking off of either the oil pump shaft or the distributor drive, and the other mode is the rotor spinning on the shaft. They believe that the tang breakage is caused by "wobble" in the rotor due to it only being supported at one end. This causes binding and additional force on the tangs. The new pump eliminates this wobble with the shaft sticking out the bottom of the rotor. The second mode - the rotor spinning on the shaft - is eliminated by the rotor and shaft being made out of a single piece of steel. This is one of those parts that "just seems right". I ran one in my motor all last season and had excellent oil pressure the whole year. For some reason the newsletter detailing this part doesn't seem to come up from the links on their website, so I've taken the liberty of scanning an old beat up copy of that article to my website here: http://www.tonydrews.com/OilPump0001.pdf . - Tony Drews From deruiterville at hotmail.com Tue Jan 19 11:06:40 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 12:06:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? In-Reply-To: <4b55c002.67.598c.30153@cogeco.ca> References: <4b55c002.67.598c.30153@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: Likely a TR4 or 4A extension. The TR4 extension is 3/4" longer than the TR3 extension. _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390706/direct/01/ From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Tue Jan 19 11:15:05 2010 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 13:15:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? Message-ID: <4b55f6a9.273.6c10.12977@cogeco.ca> > The one on the left appears to be an original TR2-3 extension; the one on > the right looks like a TR4 unit to me. Don't let the fresh paint fool you ;) The one on the left is from ebay, the seller claims it came off of a 3 and as he was selling a 2/3 radiator (identifiable by the neck and starter hole) I tend to beleive him, the one on the right just came from TRF and I also believe them. The TRF one matchs the one I took off my 3, which judging from the number of frozen bolts (one of which caused me to crack it on removal) was OEM, no plastic fan involved, it also visually matches other ones on ebay http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180448770516&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT They have the same bolt patterns. If I turn the wheel on full lock while backing out of my driveway I might hear a ting, ting, ting sound which I took to be the fan edge just ever so gently touching the steering arm. Obviously I'll reprofile the fan blades to eliminate this but I wouldn't want to fit a longer extension then the one I took off. From gsfuqua1 at aol.com Tue Jan 19 12:12:57 2010 From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com (gsfuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 14:12:57 EST Subject: [TR] [Fot] Wing or Side Fender Vents Message-ID: Thank you for the information. I had them on a rally TR 4 quite a few years ago. As for functional Vs cosmetic I suppose it would depend on how they are installed. If you just cut a hole and stick them in then it is probably more cosmetic. However is you build a small scoop that funnels air out I believe it will lower the engine bay temp. Guess we'll just have to see how it all comes together. Cheers, Gary In a message dated 1/19/2010 9:37:10 A.M. Central Standard Time, zoboherald at aol.com writes: Correct, Phil. The grilles were cut down pieces from the Herald 948/1200, and it is Neil Revington that supplies kits. ISTR hearing somewhere that these vents ultimately proved more cosmetic than useful? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net As I recall the works rally cars used Herald grill mesh. The whole assembly can be bought from one of the UK suppliers. Triumphtune? Rimmer? Revington? Sorry but it's still a little early for me. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as gsfuqua1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From emanteno at gmail.com Tue Jan 19 12:16:13 2010 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 13:16:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Uprated Oil Pump TR-3/4 In-Reply-To: <20100119175344.00A881878A7@autox.team.net> References: <20100119175344.00A881878A7@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <354a1781001191116t2410a21emfea4e81b1ae27d22@mail.gmail.com> On Tue, Jan 19, 2010 at 11:53 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > I was talking with a group of my Triumph racing buddies, and we were > discussing a new oil pump design for the TRactor motor (TR-3 / TR-4) that > came out of the Chicago area Triumph club. I realized that I may not have > properly promoted this product. Steve Yott (aka "Drippy") has developed an > oil pump design based on the stock pump, but with some important > modifications. The rotor and shaft are NOT two separate parts, but are one > piece - eliminating one of the failure modes of these pumps. Also, the end > cap has been machined to accept a new shaft sticking out of the bottom of > the rotor - so the rotor is supported on BOTH ends, rather than the stock > single end support. The end plate is pinned to the main housing so that the > location of this bore is consistent upon disassembly and reassembly. The > rotor has oil passages in key places ensuring that all of the moving parts > ride in an oil bath so there is no metal on metal contact. > > Steve Yott is at tr4 at wi.rr.com . I believe the price for this was $225 > with a core exchange. > FWIW, Steve Yott, a fellow member of ISOA, started this project when one of our club members had an oil pump failure. The failed pump was one of the currently available aftermarket pumps, and had only about 30,000 miles on it when it failed. These are street miles, not racing miles. The rotor, which is apparently not made from the same material as the oem pumps, or else is not hardened as in the oem pumps, wears. As it wears, it starts to wobble side to side, until it gets to a point where it seizes. The failed pump in question showed .030 wear on the shaft. The engine sustained serious damage, the car had to be towed home hundreds of miles, and a complete overhaul was required. There was no warning that this was going on, just a sudden and catastrophic failure. Not only is Steve a former TRiumph mechanic and the engine builder for the TTA Stag, he is also a TRactor engine owner (67 TR4A). If he engineered a pump for the TR6, I'd be the first in line to grab one. NFI Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From vlm at te-motorworks.com Tue Jan 19 12:26:24 2010 From: vlm at te-motorworks.com (Vin Marshall) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 14:26:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've been caught up dealing with vandalism at my shop for the past few days and missed the beginning of this thread - so forgive me if I'm missing the point - but it looked as if the gist was trying to identify the original fitment of the various fan extensions pictured. > http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180448770516&ssPageName=STR K:MEWAX:IT This one is from our store on ebay. It came off of either my own TR3 or one of our parts cars, all of which are somewhere in the '59-'61 range of years and all of which had 4 bladed metal fans. I don't have the chassis numbers handy right now. For comparison to your parts, the dimensions are as follows: 4" long, 3.4" big end dia, and 2.785" small end dia. Stamped on the side is 108493. Hope that helps, -vin > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 13:15:05 -0500 > From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca > Subject: Re: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <4b55f6a9.273.6c10.12977 at cogeco.ca> > >> The one on the left appears to be an original TR2-3 extension; the one on >> the right looks like a TR4 unit to me. > > Don't let the fresh paint fool you ;) > > The one on the left is from ebay, the seller claims it came off of a 3 and as he was selling a 2/3 radiator > (identifiable by the neck and starter hole) I tend to beleive him, the one on the right just came from TRF and I also > believe them. > > The TRF one matchs the one I took off my 3, which judging from the number of frozen bolts (one of which caused me to > crack it on removal) was OEM, no plastic fan involved, it also visually matches other ones on ebay > http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180448770516&ssPageName=STR K:MEWAX:IT > > They have the same bolt patterns. > > If I turn the wheel on full lock while backing out of my driveway I might hear a ting, ting, ting sound which I took to > be the fan edge just ever so gently touching the steering arm. Obviously I'll reprofile the fan blades to eliminate > this but I wouldn't want to fit a longer extension then the one I took off. > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 23 > *************************************** From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jan 19 12:30:50 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 12:30:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cranks but won't start? Message-ID: <3b0049461001191130w30a7d85awa563a8a22363427b@mail.gmail.com> http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/dweekscars/EngineStartingAid#slideshow/5428068405670075170 From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 19 12:51:20 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 19:51:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [Fot] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <318624644.13652911263930159724.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1465952261.13657711263930680595.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ---- gsfuqua1 at aol.com wrote: > As for functional Vs cosmetic I suppose it would depend on > how > they are installed. If you just cut a hole and stick them in then it > is > probably more cosmetic. However is you build a small scoop that > funnels air out > I believe it will lower the engine bay temp. Guess we'll just have > to see > how it all comes together. > > Cheers, Gary I don't know. Considering that there is air ramming into the front grille, and the fan adding to that flow, there should be a positive pressure under the bonnet. Expecting a bit of venturi on the side of the car, or at least not a high-pressure area there, I think that there would be airflow out the side grilles. An awful lot of front-engine sports-racing cars were designed this way, and I'd think it was for good reason. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1994 Miata C-package 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 19 13:21:14 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 12:21:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? In-Reply-To: <4b55f6a9.273.6c10.12977@cogeco.ca> References: <4b55f6a9.273.6c10.12977@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <0737E0FE8228469DA8F495D69535A3A5@jdnet.deere.com> > Don't let the fresh paint fool you ;) Well, some measurements might be helpful. I don't have one handy to measure, but surely someone else does or I can measure one when I get home. > If I turn the wheel on full lock while backing out of my > driveway I might hear a ting, ting, ting sound which I took > to be the fan edge just ever so gently touching the steering > arm. Which would indicate the fan needs to be moved farther forward ... Or your steering stops need to be adjusted Checked your motor mounts lately? -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jan 19 15:52:33 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 17:52:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Fot] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <1465952261.13657711263930680595.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1465952261.13657711263930680595.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2AEABAE7B8694405A9DB0279C233DB1D@CarlPC> 20+ years ago I drove my TR3 without the tranny cover for one day. The amount of heat that blew through that opening would make me think that a vent wouldn't hurt. Not knowing the placement - I would expect it to be fairly close to the inside corner of the firewall & inside fender. It should be fairly easy to close off a 'chute' between inner and outer fenders. If I hadn't just put in the hours I did on rebuilding the fenders on my '3 - it might have been something to think about. C ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: ; ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 2:51 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [Fot] Wing or Side Fender Vents > I don't know. Considering that there is air ramming into the front > grille, and the fan adding to that flow, there should be a positive > pressure under the bonnet. Expecting a bit of venturi on the side of the > car, or at least not a high-pressure area there, I think that there would > be airflow out the side grilles. An awful lot of front-engine > sports-racing cars were designed this way, and I'd think it was for good > reason. and Phil - when are you going to update your signature with 'uncle jack' > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L > 1979 Caterham 7 > 1994 Miata C-package > 2004 Suburban 8.1 > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jan 19 16:03:25 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 18:03:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Red letter day..... Message-ID: <1D6A06BDEB8249839CE3C40DA09740C4@CarlPC> Brought the TR3 body home from the paint shop Monday. The plan is to drop in engine/tranny/drive train by Feb 1; exhaust, brake & fuel lines, etc by mid-to-late Feb; body on frame shortly after that. Then back to the painter 2nd week of March for final clear coats/buffing. Then the fun really begins (as well as panic communications to the list for help). All those photos I took 8 years ago don't look like they are really going to help. Should have some photos up on my website shortly as well. Sure looks purty! Carl ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Carl - Tampa 1961 TR3A TS81802LO Body Off Restoration Completion Date: NATC 2010 http://vtr2010.org/ http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ (I need to update my pictures; 11/27/09 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jan 19 16:15:47 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 18:15:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cranks but won't start? In-Reply-To: <3b0049461001191130w30a7d85awa563a8a22363427b@mail.gmail.com> References: <3b0049461001191130w30a7d85awa563a8a22363427b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <201001191815.47756.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 19 January 2010 02:30:50 pm Geo Hahn wrote: > http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/dweekscars/EngineStartingAid#slideshow/542806 > 8405670075170 > George, I played it once and laughed so hard I had to show the wife! Where did you find this? Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jan 19 16:33:29 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 18:33:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Red letter day..... In-Reply-To: <1D6A06BDEB8249839CE3C40DA09740C4@CarlPC> References: <1D6A06BDEB8249839CE3C40DA09740C4@CarlPC> Message-ID: <201001191833.29585.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 19 January 2010 06:03:25 pm Carl TR wrote: > Brought the TR3 body home from the paint shop Monday. The plan is to drop > in engine/tranny/drive train by Feb 1; exhaust, brake & fuel lines, etc by > mid-to-late Feb; body on frame shortly after that. Then back to the > painter 2nd week of March for final clear coats/buffing. Then the fun > really begins (as well as panic communications to the list for help). All > those photos I took 8 years ago don't look like they are really going to > help. > > Should have some photos up on my website shortly as well. Sure looks > purty! > > Carl Carl, I am also looking forward to spring when I can resume painting so I can get the engine completed and paint the body tub. You are correct that one the tub is mounted and aligned on the frame, the fun and questions really start. But it is the most rewarding time for me during any restoration. As you work each day, you can see actual progress as the parts are assembled and the "project" becomes a treasure. Bob From kingscreektrees at aol.com Tue Jan 19 17:32:41 2010 From: kingscreektrees at aol.com (kingscreektrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 19:32:41 EST Subject: [TR] Cranks but won't start? Message-ID: <15e2c.32bffe30.3887a929@aol.com> This is funny, but I'm not sure it's that original. There is an Australian ether-start product in an aerosol can that is called the same thing, and it's a genuine product! I was hoping to get a can just for display but can't get an aerosol shipped here to Canada due to the obvious pressure issue. Any of you Aussie listers that are willing to buy a few off the shelves and ship 'em, though, well I'm sure a lot of us would love to have a can on our workshop shelf! Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3, Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From leejohn7 at gmail.com Tue Jan 19 17:59:58 2010 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 16:59:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] Stag brakes Message-ID: Hi listers Does anyone happen to know the spec thickness for the front discs on the '73 Stag? Can't find that number in the Leyland Repair Operation Manual. Want to know if I can salvage the rusted discs on the car I'm beginning to rebuild. Many thanks in advance John Howard From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Jan 19 21:40:24 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 04:40:24 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <848972.68276.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <45bd6.6f546e39.3886cb55@aol.com> <848972.68276.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEAABD@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> Here is a TR4 with those vents installed. I liked this TR so much I may have drooled on it. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/TR4.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 9:51 AM To: fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Do you have a link to a picture of these vents? JJ --- On Tue, 1/19/10, gsfuqua1 at aol.com wrote: From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents To: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, tony at tonydrews.com, N197TR4 at cs.com Date: Tuesday, January 19, 2010, 2:46 AM I am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR 4's used. As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large checker board grill affect. The idea being to let some of the engine bay heat be carried out through the side wings or fenders. The fit flush with the side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gary 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com From deruiterville at hotmail.com Wed Jan 20 06:48:33 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 07:48:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <45bd6.6f546e39.3886cb55@aol.com> References: <45bd6.6f546e39.3886cb55@aol.com> Message-ID: Here's a link to a picture I took in 2007 of the vent on one of the original rally cars, 4VC: http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t145/deruiterville/Brooklands%202007/4VCVe nts.jpg Gary- tried to email once on this topic, but I think I've been snagged by your spam filter - contact me if you want a potential lead on these grilles. Randy DeRuiter 64 tr4 59 TR3A _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390706/direct/01/ From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jan 20 07:53:14 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 14:53:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1448237276.13991831263999194568.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Is that one of the aluminum-body cars John Sprinzel was telling me about? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1994 Miata C-package 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Randy&Val DeRuiter" wrote: > From: "Randy&Val DeRuiter" > To: gsfuqua1 at aol.com, "Triumph List" > Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 7:48:33 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents > > Here's a link to a picture I took in 2007 of the vent on one of the > original > rally cars, 4VC: > > http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t145/deruiterville/Brooklands%202007/4VCVe > nts.jpg > > > > Gary- tried to email once on this topic, but I think I've been > snagged by > your spam filter - contact me if you want a potential lead on these > grilles. > > > > Randy DeRuiter > > 64 tr4 > > 59 TR3A > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390706/direct/01/ > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Jan 20 08:13:01 2010 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 15:13:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't know how relevant this may be but I thought I would share my fix for evacuating heat from my engine compartment. On the TR3A there is a triangular bulkhead in the fender where the inner fender angles down from the fire wall. I cut both of the sheet metal sides off of this bulkhead. The bulkhead has structural steel on all perimeter areas so this probably does not compromise structural integrity. Then I bought two aluminum electric fans ( 600 CFM each) from McMaster-Carr. I wedge fit the fans into the triangular holes I had produced in the inner fender bulkheads. I wired the fans to a toggle switch under my dash. Now when I am in traffic I turn the fans on and bring the engine temp down. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/ From deruiterville at hotmail.com Wed Jan 20 08:56:17 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 09:56:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <1448237276.13991831263999194568.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: , <1448237276.13991831263999194568.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Yes, I believe a lot of of the panels are aluminum. Its owned by Ian Cornish - he politely allowed me to drool all over the car when he brought it to the Brooklands Standard Triumph Show in 2007. One of the interesting small differences on the rally cars were the rear boot hinges were longer to lessens the strain on the aluminum lid. Various pictures of that show are here along with a couple more of 4VC. It was a great day to look at some nice Trumphs: http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t145/deruiterville/Brooklands%202007/ Randy > > Is that one of the aluminum-body cars John Sprinzel was telling me about? > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/ From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jan 20 09:02:55 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 16:02:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2142240916.14025741264003375807.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> John Sprinzel told me that they got the press operators to come in on a Saturday and recalibrate the presses. They made 6 sets of panels. John said they built four cars and "threw the other two sets in the van". I hear now that there were five cars. If so, perhaps they built another car later out of the spares. John told me about this when he was at the autocross for the (2005?) Rendezvous in Grand Rapids Minnesota and came over to look at my TR4. Nice guy, who now lives in Maui and spends his time windsurfing. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1994 Miata C-package 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Randy&Val DeRuiter" wrote: > From: "Randy&Val DeRuiter" > To: pethier at comcast.net > Cc: gsfuqua1 at aol.com, "Triumph List" > Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 9:56:17 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: RE: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents > > Yes,B I believe a lot of of the panels are aluminum.B Its owned by > IanB CornishB - he politely allowed me to drool all over the car when he > brought it to the Brooklands Standard Triumph Show in 2007.B One of > the interesting small differences on the rally cars were the rear boot > hinges were longer to lessens the strain on the aluminum lid. > B > Various pictures of that show are here along with a couple more of > 4VC.B It was a great day to look at some nice Trumphs: > http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t145/deruiterville/Brooklands%202007/ > B > Randy > B > > B > > > > Is that one of the aluminum-body cars John Sprinzel was telling me > about? > > > > > > Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. Get it now. From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Jan 20 10:25:51 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 17:25:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <2142240916.14025741264003375807.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1037706770.12811411264008351624.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> too bad we can'tB pony up for a guy to make tr4 bonnets.B those babies are heavy!B it would be like adding 40 horses! ray ----- Original Message ----- From: pethier at comcast.net To: "Randy&Val DeRuiter" Cc: "Triumph List" Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 10:02:55 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents John Sprinzel told me that they got the press operators to come in on a Saturday and recalibrate the presses. B They made 6 sets of panels. B John said they built four cars and "threw the other two sets in the van". B I hear now that there were five cars. B If so, perhaps they built another car later out of the spares. B John told me about this when he was at the autocross for the (2005?) Rendezvous in Grand Rapids Minnesota and came over to look at my TR4. Nice guy, who now lives in Maui and spends his time windsurfing. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1994 Miata C-package 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Randy&Val DeRuiter" wrote: > From: "Randy&Val DeRuiter" > To: pethier at comcast.net > Cc: gsfuqua1 at aol.com, "Triumph List" > Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 9:56:17 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: RE: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents > > Yes,B I believe a lot of of the panels are aluminum.B B Its owned by > IanB CornishB - he politely allowed me to drool all over the car when he > brought it to the Brooklands Standard Triumph Show in 2007.B B One of > the interesting small differences on the rally cars were the rear boot > hinges were longer to lessens the strain on the aluminum lid. > B > Various pictures of that show are here along with a couple more of > 4VC.B B It was a great day to look at some nice Trumphs: > http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t145/deruiterville/Brooklands%202007/ > B > Randy > B > > B > > > > Is that one of the aluminum-body cars John Sprinzel was telling me > about? > > > > > > Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. Get it now. Suggested annual donation B $11.47 You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Jan 20 10:24:13 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 12:24:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEAABD@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> That's a nice look. Question - How does one get street papers for a car with the original bumper removed? In most places I have heard of that would be a no-no. The picture makes it seem that the car was driven to the location it was at. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: January 19, 2010 11:40 PM To: Jim Jones; fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Here is a TR4 with those vents installed. I liked this TR so much I may have drooled on it. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/TR4.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 9:51 AM To: fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Do you have a link to a picture of these vents? JJ --- On Tue, 1/19/10, gsfuqua1 at aol.com wrote: From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents To: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, tony at tonydrews.com, N197TR4 at cs.com Date: Tuesday, January 19, 2010, 2:46 AM I am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR 4's used. As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large checker board grill affect. The idea being to let some of the engine bay heat be carried out through the side wings or fenders. The fit flush with the side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gary From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 20 10:59:41 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 09:59:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEAABD@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: > Question - How does one get street papers > for a car with the original bumper removed? Varies greatly with location. Here in California there is no inspection as such, except for the VIN number. They did insist that the seats be sitting in the car, but I got "street papers" without bumpers, lights or even a windshield installed. Of course it would be illegal to operate the car on public roads that way, so I used a trailer to take it for it's "VIN confirmation". But the penalties here for operating without such things are very mild (commonly known as a "fix it" ticket, because the fine is dismissed if you show that the problem was corrected), so lots of people do. And I don't believe there is any legal requirement for a car built before 1968 to even have bumpers. Does anyone know, is that Mike Clemente's car? It looks familiar ... -- Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 20 11:01:02 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 12:01:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <82E950ED41C24F6D9EB541AFD918C658@ranteer.local> I just want to know how he convinced his wife to let him remove a towel rack from the bathroom and put it on the front of his car . . . -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark Hooper" Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:24 AM To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents > That's a nice look. Question - How does one get street papers for a car > with > the original bumper removed? In most places I have heard of that would be > a > no-no. The picture makes it seem that the car was driven to the location > it > was at. > > Mark > 1972 TR6 > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) > Sent: January 19, 2010 11:40 PM > To: Jim Jones; fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; > 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com > Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents > > Here is a TR4 with those vents installed. I liked this TR so much I may > have > drooled on it. > > http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/TR4.jpg > > Stan > > -----Original Message----- From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed Jan 20 12:55:51 2010 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 14:55:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Status of Advanced Autowire? Message-ID: <6236246777424C2299F58DBFC6C0DAB9@DaveLaptop> Hi, Does anyone know the current status of Advanced Autowire? I would like to upgrade my TR4A IRS wire harness and would really like to get one of the Advanced harnesess but from what I have read lately, it doesn't look good. Just curious... Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From emanteno at gmail.com Wed Jan 20 13:22:21 2010 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 14:22:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] Status of Advanced Autowire? In-Reply-To: <6236246777424C2299F58DBFC6C0DAB9@DaveLaptop> References: <6236246777424C2299F58DBFC6C0DAB9@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <354a1781001201222m79755332wee7e4a7134174901@mail.gmail.com> On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 1:55 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > Hi, > Does anyone know the current status of Advanced Autowire? I would like to > upgrade my TR4A IRS wire harness and would really like to get one of the > Advanced harnesess but from what I have read lately, it doesn't look good. > Just curious... > Based on recent conversations on the 6-Pack Forums, AAW seems to be delivering in a somewhat timely manner now. One guy just reported receiving his harness 14 days after ordering. NFI Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From amfoto1 at aol.com Wed Jan 20 14:09:18 2010 From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 16:09:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC682BF64766D5-5904-D8D@webmail-m091.sysops.aol.com> Hi Gary, The rally car fender vent grills were simply cut from Herald grills. You can either try to get one of those or Revington TR in England sells the grills separately or in a kit with the necessary internal ducting: http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_display.asp?mscssid=3RC1QAJ870U98KRVV UQW16EWWTKK1R88&CarType=TR4&ProductID=RTR7019K These are pretty accurate reproductions. Neil has one or two of the original works cars he's restored, to reference. He's raced one of them in the past, too... I don't know that he still does. Yes, the rally cars had some aluminum panels.... AFAIK, the door skins, hood skin, and trunk lid were replaced with aluminum panels. The steel frames were still used underneath. I don't think any of the interior panels, front and rear valances, or under structure were ever made up in aluminum. I don't think so. Revington now offers a lot of other parts in aluminum, too. But if you are really serious about weight reduction, fiberglass panels probably make more sense and are a lot less costly. More easily repaired or modified, too. The air intake vent "door" behind the hood was replaced with a more aggressive "scoop" and had a snap-on cover for foul weather. Revington sells those parts, too. The trunk (boot) lid hinges used on the rally cars were simply TR3 bonnet (hood) hinges. I think leather straps were used at the bottom to keep the lid securely closed. Eventually I plan to install fender vents in my TR4, too. But I'll probably be using a style more similar to the TRS LeMans cars. Alan Myers San Jose, California '62 TR4 CT17602L http://www.triumphowners.com/640 -----Original Message----- From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com ubject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents o: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, ony at tonydrews.com, N197TR4 at cs.com ate: Tuesday, January 19, 2010, 2:46 AM am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR 's used. As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large hecker board grill affect. The idea being to let some of the engine bay eat be carried out through the side wings or fenders. The fit flush with he side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gary ----------------------------- Message: 8 ate: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 09:59:41 -0800 rom: "Randall" ubject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents o: essage-ID: ontent-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > Question - How does one get street papers for a car with the original bumper removed? Varies greatly with location. Here in California there is no inspection as uch, except for the VIN number. They did insist that the seats be sitting n the car, but I got "street papers" without bumpers, lights or even a indshield installed. Of course it would be illegal to operate the car on ublic roads that way, so I used a trailer to take it for it's "VIN onfirmation". But the penalties here for operating without such things are very mild commonly known as a "fix it" ticket, because the fine is dismissed if you how that the problem was corrected), so lots of people do. And I don't elieve there is any legal requirement for a car built before 1968 to even ave bumpers. Does anyone know, is that Mike Clemente's car? It looks familiar ... -- Randall ----------------------------- From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 20 15:55:21 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 17:55:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Status of Advanced Autowire? In-Reply-To: <6236246777424C2299F58DBFC6C0DAB9@DaveLaptop> References: <6236246777424C2299F58DBFC6C0DAB9@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: Dave, Steve Carrington is now doing AAW harnesses as a full time job and he's made good on all the back ordered items for the 6 Pack guys. A couple of them ordered and received their harness in a 2 - 3 week time period. He's also working on getting Paypal up and running as a payment option. You might want to give him a call. It's a great harness that I've had in my car for 5 years now http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Wire_Harness_1.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dave Connitt" Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 2:55 PM To: Subject: [TR] Status of Advanced Autowire? > Hi, > Does anyone know the current status of Advanced Autowire? I would like to > upgrade my TR4A IRS wire harness and would really like to get one of the > Advanced harnesess but from what I have read lately, it doesn't look good. > Just curious... > Thanks, > Dave Connitt > '67 TR4A IRS > http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 20 17:30:59 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 16:30:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <985371.77740.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> i didn't think it was illegal to have no front bumper. im running my TR3 with no bumper, cos i don't own one yet. but then im in California where one can run with open wheels Frank ________________________________ From: Mark Hooper To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" ; "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wed, January 20, 2010 9:24:13 AM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents That's a nice look. Question - How does one get street papers for a car with the original bumper removed? In most places I have heard of that would be a no-no. The picture makes it seem that the car was driven to the location it was at. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: January 19, 2010 11:40 PM To: Jim Jones; fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Here is a TR4 with those vents installed. I liked this TR so much I may have drooled on it. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/TR4.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 9:51 AM To: fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Do you have a link to a picture of these vents? JJ --- On Tue, 1/19/10, gsfuqua1 at aol.com wrote: From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents To: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, tony at tonydrews.com, N197TR4 at cs.com Date: Tuesday, January 19, 2010, 2:46 AM I am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR 4's used. As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large checker board grill affect. The idea being to let some of the engine bay heat be carried out through the side wings or fenders. The fit flush with the side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gary Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Jan 20 17:46:23 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 19:46:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <985371.77740.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E61A@CMS01.winhosting.local> Hi Frank: I'm up in Montreal, where we are more hidebound. However, I was under the impression that any change to the safety equipment of a vehicle would mean it had to be inspected as a new custom machine; and that would mean complete adherence to modern standards. Of course, I could be way off base. As noted by another lister, it's possible that you can just swap it out and hope that nobody stops you on the road and gives out one of those 48-hour tickets. Cheers, Mark ________________________________ From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: January 20, 2010 7:31 PM To: Mark Hooper Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents i didn't think it was illegal to have no front bumper. im running my TR3 with no bumper, cos i don't own one yet. but then im in California where one can run with open wheels Frank ________________________________ From: Mark Hooper To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" ; "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wed, January 20, 2010 9:24:13 AM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents That's a nice look. Question - How does one get street papers for a car with the original bumper removed? In most places I have heard of that would be a no-no. The picture makes it seem that the car was driven to the location it was at. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: January 19, 2010 11:40 PM To: Jim Jones; fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs..com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Here is a TR4 with those vents installed. I liked this TR so much I may have drooled on it. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/TR4.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 9:51 AM To: fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Do you have a link to a picture of these vents? JJ --- On Tue, 1/19/10, gsfuqua1 at aol.com > wrote: From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com > Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents To: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, tony at tonydrews.com, N197TR4 at cs.com Date: Tuesday, January 19, 2010, 2:46 AM I am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR 4's used. As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large checker board grill affect. The idea being to let some of the engine bay heat be carried out through the side wings or fenders. The fit flush with the side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gary From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 20 18:04:05 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 17:04:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E61A@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E61A@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <697220.29702.qm@web111613.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> could well be. i also have no front license plate. i could argue that the front bumper has no "safety" properties, but im done for sure on the license plate. even with a fix it note to the principle, its still 25.00 each infraction. ill get it done one day but more important and completely off topic, whats going on with the habs? Frank ________________________________ From: Mark Hooper To: Frank Fisher Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wed, January 20, 2010 4:46:23 PM Subject: RE: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Hi Frank: B Ibm up in Montreal , where we are more hidebound. However, I was under the impression that any change to the safety equipment of a vehicle would mean it had to be inspected as a new custom machine; and that would mean complete adherence to modern standards. Of course, I could be way off base. B As noted by another lister, itbs possible that you can just swap it out and hope that nobody stops you on the road and gives out one of those 48-hour tickets. B B Cheers, B Mark B B ________________________________ From:Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: January 20, 2010 7:31 PM To: Mark Hooper Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents B i didn't think it was illegal to have no front bumper. im running my TR3 with no bumper, cos i don't own one yet. but then im in California where one can run with open wheels Frank B ________________________________ From:Mark Hooper To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" ; "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wed, January 20, 2010 9:24:13 AM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents That's a nice look. Question - How does one get street papers for a car with the original bumper removed? In most places I have heard of that would be a no-no. The picture makes it seem that the car was driven to the location it was at. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: January 19, 2010 11:40 PM To: Jim Jones; fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs..com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Here is a TR4 with those vents installed. I liked this TR so much I may have drooled on it. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/TR4.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 9:51 AM To: fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Do you have a link to a picture of these vents? JJ --- On Tue, 1/19/10, gsfuqua1 at aol.com wrote: From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents To: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, tony at tonydrews.com, N197TR4 at cs.com Date: Tuesday, January 19, 2010, 2:46 AM I am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR 4's used.B As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large checker board grill affect.B The idea being to let some of the engine bay heat be carried out through the side wings or fenders.B The fit flush with the side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gary From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Jan 20 18:23:50 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 20:23:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <697220.29702.qm@web111613.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E61B@CMS01.winhosting.local> Aargh! Looks like 5 losses out of the past 7 games. December was better, but that was a year ago. This month the only place they're winning is against teams from places where ice is a purely indoor phenomenon. Oh the shame... :^( Cheers, Mark ________________________________ From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: January 20, 2010 8:04 PM To: Mark Hooper Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents could well be. i also have no front license plate. i could argue that the front bumper has no "safety" properties, but im done for sure on the license plate. even with a fix it note to the principle, its still 25.00 each infraction. ill get it done one day but more important and completely off topic, whats going on with the habs? Frank ________________________________ From: Mark Hooper To: Frank Fisher Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wed, January 20, 2010 4:46:23 PM Subject: RE: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Hi Frank: I'm up in Montreal , where we are more hidebound. However, I was under the impression that any change to the safety equipment of a vehicle would mean it had to be inspected as a new custom machine; and that would mean complete adherence to modern standards. Of course, I could be way off base. As noted by another lister, it's possible that you can just swap it out and hope that nobody stops you on the road and gives out one of those 48-hour tickets. Cheers, Mark ________________________________ From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: January 20, 2010 7:31 PM To: Mark Hooper Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents i didn't think it was illegal to have no front bumper. im running my TR3 with no bumper, cos i don't own one yet. but then im in California where one can run with open wheels Frank ________________________________ From: Mark Hooper To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" ; "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wed, January 20, 2010 9:24:13 AM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents That's a nice look. Question - How does one get street papers for a car with the original bumper removed? In most places I have heard of that would be a no-no. The picture makes it seem that the car was driven to the location it was at. Mark 1972 TR6 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 20 18:31:33 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 19:31:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E61A@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E61A@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: in texas you could probably get antique plates for a cardboard box if you had a title. antiques require no inspection, just insurance. and although they are only supposed to be driven in club events and parades, I have yet to hear of anyone getting stopped. oh, yeah. Officer, I'm just test driving the car. I just adjusted the points . . . -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark Hooper" Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 6:46 PM To: "Frank Fisher" Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents > Hi Frank: > > I'm up in Montreal, where we are more hidebound. However, I was under the > impression that any change to the safety equipment of a vehicle would mean > it > had to be inspected as a new custom machine; and that would mean complete > adherence to modern standards. Of course, I could be way off base. > > As noted by another lister, it's possible that you can just swap it out > and > hope that nobody stops you on the road and gives out one of those 48-hour > tickets. > > Cheers, > > Mark > > > ________________________________ > From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] > Sent: January 20, 2010 7:31 PM > To: Mark Hooper > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents > > i didn't think it was illegal to have no front bumper. > im running my TR3 with no bumper, cos i don't own one yet. > but then im in California where one can run with open wheels > Frank From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Thu Jan 21 16:12:18 2010 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 18:12:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Overdrive bracket needed Message-ID: <380-220101421231218876@M2W104.mail2web.com> Listers, I am in need of the bracket that holds the overdrive inhibitor switch on a 3 rail Spitfire/GT6 overdrive gearbox. This is the one that bolts to the top front of the extension housing. If anybody has a spare that they would like to unload for a fair price, let me know. I suppose that I could make one, but it would sure be easier to just buy a correct one - Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  What can On Demand Business Solutions do for you? http://link.mail2web.com/Business/SharePoint From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Thu Jan 21 10:24:06 2010 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 18:24:06 +0100 Subject: [TR] A bit more about thrust washers Message-ID: <7DBDBE29552841559BB845CD68A6D6F5@Study> Dear listers, this info may be of interest to some with TRactor motors. Referring to my original Triumph TR4 and 4A workshop manual I find the following. Crankshaft end float, desirable 0.004 to 0.006" Maufacturing (tolerance?) 0.0048 to 0.0117" Wear limit 0.015. Haynes Manual Endfloat 0.004-0.006" Moss Catologue Standard Thrust washer set 0.0925" available + 5 and +8 thou. So it seems that (surprise, surprise!) Randall is correct and there is no manufacturers limit up to .015" but it would seem desirable to keep the endfloat below 0.012". If the endfloat gets too much the crank can wreck the block! I guess that on assembly in the factory if they found endfloat greater than .006"they just used oversize washers if necessary to get the endfloat within their desirable tolerance. David Brister 1967 TR4A CTC 77785 0 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2921 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Thu Jan 21 18:53:23 2010 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 20:53:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B590513.5020409@cogeco.ca> > Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 12:21:14 -0800 > From: "Randall" > Subject: Re: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? > To: > Message-ID: <0737E0FE8228469DA8F495D69535A3A5 at jdnet.deere.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >> Don't let the fresh paint fool you ;) >> > > Well, some measurements might be helpful. I don't have one handy to > measure, but surely someone else does or I can measure one when I get home. > > Shorter fat one is 4 1/8" with part # 108493 stamped on it as per book, taller skinny one is 4 3/4" , part # partially gone but looks like it starts 128 or 129 may end in 712 or 312 but I wouldn't swear to it, has what looks like an A in a circle after that. Both have same diameter & bolt patterns. > > > Which would indicate the fan needs to be moved farther forward ... Or your > steering stops need to be adjusted > > Checked your motor mounts lately? > > New 2 years ago From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Jan 21 19:06:33 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 18:06:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] tr-3 front fenders Message-ID: <942296.49525.qm@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I'm working on panel fitting specifically front fenders. I've replaced the lower 1/3rd of each fender and upon fitting, find that I'm not sure how the bottom edge of the fender lines up with the outer sill under the door. (I made my own patch panels therefore had to make my own bracket at the bottom of the fender that attaches to the sill under the car). hard to explain.lol I think I got the brackets wrong. I'm assuming that the front lower fender line along side the car lines up with the outer sill under the door in a straight line. In other words: If I place a straight edge alongside the car on the sill under the door....... forward.................the front fender, lower edge, should line up alongside that straight edge? My fenders at the extreme front bottom ......corner?lol seem to want to curve in toward the center of the car and I'm pretty sure thats wrong but have no way to prove it. Thanks for any help! gary n From npaul72464 at aol.com Thu Jan 21 19:12:39 2010 From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 21:12:39 EST Subject: [TR] Welcome to vtr2010.org Message-ID: <19b24.35d5e6f5.388a6397@aol.com> Thses are really interesting. Here's more detail of the story. Ned Paulsen Webster, NY From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Jan 21 19:47:26 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 21:47:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 and TR6 heads Message-ID: <462AE91A722C4CD68E570A4548616F8C@Edscomputer> List, I have 2 heads from the TR250-TR6 series engines. How do I tell the early (TR250) from the late (TR6). Thanks, Ed Woods From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jan 21 20:20:01 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 22:20:01 EST Subject: [TR] TR250 and TR6 heads Message-ID: <1b8b2.650743b5.388a7361@cs.com> In a message dated 1/21/2010 9:15:30 PM Central Standard Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: > I have 2 heads from the TR250-TR6 series engines. How do I tell the early > (TR250) from the late (TR6). > Do you have a manifold gasket? The exhaust ports were moved for the CF series engine. Also, the 74 or later have a port for the EGR Valve. The 73 had the cast boss for the valve but were not machined. (this is probably the reason for repositioning the exhaust ports. Dave From mark at bradakis.com Thu Jan 21 22:13:00 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 22:13:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR250 and TR6 heads In-Reply-To: <462AE91A722C4CD68E570A4548616F8C@Edscomputer> References: <462AE91A722C4CD68E570A4548616F8C@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <4B5933DC.6020406@bradakis.com> Ed Woods wrote: > List, > > I have 2 heads from the TR250-TR6 series engines. How do I tell the early > (TR250) from the late (TR6). > The early heads had slightly narrower spacing on the intake ports, something like 1.9" between centers, later heads were about 2.2" I can't recall the year the air injection ports appeared on the later heads. Exhaust ports stayed the same. mjb. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 21 22:41:04 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 21:41:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] A bit more about thrust washers In-Reply-To: <7DBDBE29552841559BB845CD68A6D6F5@Study> Message-ID: > If the endfloat gets too much the > crank can wreck the block! While I won't say it's impossible, I think that is very unlikely on the TRactor motor, and it would take a lot more than .015" clearance to do it. The tales of block damage come entirely (AFAIK) from TR6 and Spitfire owners, which have a slightly different arrangement with only a half circle of bearing on each side. Typically what happens is that the half circle falls out in the pan, leaving the crank free to grind against the bearing cap. Even my TR3A motor with the bearings all worn into the copper backing did not have any damage from excessive thrust clearance. (Talk about driving like you stole it ... the DPO had literally driven the car until it would not run, while failing to make the payments on it.) Randall From peter at nosimport.com Fri Jan 22 07:37:05 2010 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 08:37:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR250 and TR6 heads In-Reply-To: <462AE91A722C4CD68E570A4548616F8C@Edscomputer> References: <462AE91A722C4CD68E570A4548616F8C@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <201001220637662.SM01188@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Looking at the center 2 intake ports, the early had 1 stud on top between the ports, the later had 2, one on top, and one below. (though I confess I am not sure the lower is a stud or a peg) This is how I ID the 2 manifold gaskets without measuring. Peter C == At 08:47 PM 1/21/2010, Ed Woods wrote: >List, > >I have 2 heads from the TR250-TR6 series engines. How do I tell the early >(TR250) from the late (TR6). > >Thanks, > >Ed Woods From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Jan 22 09:36:46 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 08:36:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield to Scuttle Seal Message-ID: <332609.4778.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am reinstalling my windshield. After bolting it down, the MOSS sourced windshield frame to scuttle seal bulges out about 3 or 4 inches in from the windshield lower corners. It looks like a water trap. I didn't use a sealant on the seal because I live in an arid climate. I've been thinking about using a water cleanup clear latex sealant to glue it on with the windshield off of the car. Any suggestions? Bill in Tehachapi From tr250driver at aol.com Fri Jan 22 11:08:28 2010 From: tr250driver at aol.com (tr250driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 13:08:28 EST Subject: [TR] TR250 and TR6 heads Message-ID: In a message dated 1/21/2010 10:15:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: I have 2 heads from the TR250-TR6 series engines. How do I tell the early (TR250) from the late (TR6). Ed, I am fairly certain that a TR250 head has unique markings on it which are entirely different from the early TR6 heads. Then there is another late TR6 head. I would go look at both my cars to state the difference but unfortunately the 250 is in pieces and not at home now. Darrell From blambert at socal.rr.com Fri Jan 22 11:14:46 2010 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 10:14:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fan extension, but for what? In-Reply-To: <4B590513.5020409@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <63.3A.19161.71BE95B4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Have been away for a while and have come into this discussion rather late, but at the risk of beating this to death, here are my experiences with installing a yellow 8-blade fan on my TR3A: First, it my understanding that the short fat piece is the extension for the TR3 series engine, while the longer narrow one went on the TR4's. If you want an 8-blade plastic fan on your TR3 you can just slap one on - the correct direction (without reversing the fan). It is VERY close to the radiator, and you have to notch the edges of the fan to clear the lower radiator tank rim. I also made the radiator mounting holes (the one on the car) slots instead of round holes so I could slide the bottom of the radiator forward about a quarter inch. Thinking this was too close, I removed the nose piece from the car and took it to a friend with a lathe who cut it in the middle, "stepped" the cut so that it slid together and retained its concentricity, and then had the two halves brazed together at a local welding shop. Cost: about ten bucks. The yellow fan mounts nicely and misses the radiator by about 3/4"; enough so you don't have to notch the fan and can also change the fan belt relatively easily. Oh, I also had to shorten the big mounting bolt which entailed hack-sawing it off and then cutting about an inch of new threads on the bolt. Cost of the die: about 15 dollars. I now see Moss carries a shortened nose piece made expressly to mount a yellow fan to a TR3. For a while, a guy on EBay was selling shortened nosepieces made of aluminum. I preferred to stay with the original cast iron, considering the high torque on the big center bolt. I also notice that both Moss and Roadster seem to be out of yellow 8-blade fans at the moment. I think installation of the yellow fan has been the best cooling mod I have done to the car. Dennis > > > Shorter fat one is 4 1/8" with part # 108493 stamped on it as per book, > taller skinny one is 4 3/4" , part # partially gone but looks like it > starts 128 or 129 may end in 712 or 312 but I wouldn't swear to it, has > what looks like an A in a circle after that. Both have same diameter & > bolt patterns. From chip19474 at aol.com Fri Jan 22 12:29:49 2010 From: chip19474 at aol.com (chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 14:29:49 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield to Scuttle Seal Message-ID: Bill, The seal should fit flat without any bulges. I first thought that you had picked up something under the seal during installation that's causing it not to lay flat but evidently it's bulging on both sides. These seals are made long so that when they're installed they run long about 2 inches beyond each lower windscreen frame. The deal is that the extra length gives you a chance to trim the seals nicely to fit the weatherstriping. It sounds like maybe you thought you needed to have a final fit for the seals flush to the windscreen frame and perhaps bunched the seal inward to cause a bulge??? They definitely do not require windscreen sealant to lay flat. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 1/22/2010 12:09:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: I am reinstalling my windshield. After bolting it down, the MOSS sourced windshield frame to scuttle seal bulges out about 3 or 4 inches in from the windshield lower corners. It looks like a water trap. I didn't use a sealant on the seal because I live in an arid climate. I've been thinking about using a water cleanup clear latex sealant to glue it on with the windshield off of the car. Any suggestions? Bill in Tehachapi Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as chip19474 at aol.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From pcaffrey at ymail.com Fri Jan 22 22:31:05 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 21:31:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Grand Prix (1966) Message-ID: <512038.90866.qm@web59706.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> List, I recently got a dvd of the movie Grand Prix made in 1966. A special treat for me was the Special Features part of the dvd, titled, Pushing the Limit: The Making of Grand Prix....Fun to watch some old actors and racers, and also to see how difficult it was to make this movie....See the link below if interested. Pat http://www.veoh.com/collection/f1doc/watch/v343219hb3gsqqH# From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Jan 23 07:51:07 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 14:51:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: References: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEAABD@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEE095@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> I believe the red TR4 is the car identified below. I have the original hi res images and when I blow them up I can see the car number 92 and the class Modified Touring but the name is obscured. They were in the TSD rally though and they are listed in the VTR 2007 conference results page: Car 92, TR4 N (not a novice) Bruce Menkowitz Shelly Menkowitz That was a very pretty TR and I hope to see it again at another east coast event. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 1:00 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents > Question - How does one get street papers for a car with the original > bumper removed? Varies greatly with location. Here in California there is no inspection as such, except for the VIN number. They did insist that the seats be sitting in the car, but I got "street papers" without bumpers, lights or even a windshield installed. Of course it would be illegal to operate the car on public roads that way, so I used a trailer to take it for it's "VIN confirmation". But the penalties here for operating without such things are very mild (commonly known as a "fix it" ticket, because the fine is dismissed if you show that the problem was corrected), so lots of people do. And I don't believe there is any legal requirement for a car built before 1968 to even have bumpers. Does anyone know, is that Mike Clemente's car? It looks familiar From wayne at motorcarriage.com Sat Jan 23 09:14:27 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 11:14:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Grand Prix (1966) Message-ID: <42D252140AE24DAFBA76F335A533C898@D794W231> Hi Pat, Yes, Grand Prix is great to watch, the best till LeMans came along with more footage of actual Racing Cars. My DVD didn't come with the making of it segment as I got it early after it's release. But, I watched it on Speedvision when Bruce Dern hosted the interviews with the players. Other than the actual footage of genuine period GP Races they filmed using the mocked up Formula Junior Cars, which James Garner called F3 Cars, which some were when updated to Lotus 31 Spec as mine was. All the Cars were ex-Jim Russell School Cars that MGM bought. I sold Lotus 22/31 # AM64-14 back to the UK about 8 years ago, to Owen Oakley, who presently has it for sale again. It was used in the Movie GP, but we could never confirm which Car it was. Gavin Pickering's Lotus 20/22 was confirmed as being the BRM in the Movie and driven by Garner at Monaco. James Garner has since signed it's dashboard after it's last restoration and It's presently for sale also here, along with my old car. Almost $100K though. http://www.formulajunior.com/For%20Sale/FJ_Cars_for_sale.html I wish I never sold my Lotus 22 but I didn't fit well in it at 6'3", You really needed to be under 6' in the Lotus' Frame no matter what you did with the Seat and Fuel Cell, to be comfortable. Cheers, Wayne Lee 64 TR4 75 TR6 Lola T598 (# HU11) Hawke DL12 Formula Ford wayne at sportsracer.com -------------------------------------------------- From: "P Caffrey" Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 12:31 AM To: "list Triumph" Subject: [TR] Grand Prix (1966) > List, > I recently got a dvd of the movie Grand Prix made in 1966. A special > treat for me was the Special Features part of the dvd, titled, Pushing the > Limit: The Making of Grand Prix....Fun to watch some old actors and > racers, > and also to see how difficult it was to make this movie....See the link > below > if interested. > Pat > http://www.veoh.com/collection/f1doc/watch/v343219hb3gsqqH# From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Jan 23 13:45:44 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 12:45:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] Grand Prix (1966) In-Reply-To: <42D252140AE24DAFBA76F335A533C898@D794W231> References: <42D252140AE24DAFBA76F335A533C898@D794W231> Message-ID: Well those two are good, but my personal favorite is "The Racers" with Kirk Douglas, lots of real race footage, and if you fast forward through the "mushy" part a great story, supposedly based on the life of Nuvolari (siq) .. >Hi Pat, > Yes, Grand Prix is great to watch, the best till LeMans came along with >more footage of actual Racing Cars. -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jan 23 18:54:17 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 18:54:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph Message-ID: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> I saw this in Sept 09 Automobiles Magazine and thought I'd share: "You can be forgiven if the names don't mean anything to you. One is a pair of initials currently being slapped on Chinese-built Rover sedans; the other is a word usually used to reference old, oil-leaking motorcycles. Neither has appeared on a new car in this country in more than twenty-five years, but once, both were household names. In the decades following WWII, British Marques MG and Triumph essentially created the stateside market for the low-cost, high-fun roadster. By packaging pedestrian sedan components into rakish, droptop bodies, they introduced thousands of people to the joys of cornering and all but invented the wind-in-hair grin. And while the two companies battled each other in grand style at places like LeMans and the N|rburgring, the real contest took place in showrooms. It came down to a difference in personality: Triumph were raucous, snarly little things, all torque and attitude, while MGs were more refined, often slower, but usually better built. The dichotomy regularly carried over into ownership: According to lore, MG people wore string-back driving gloves and saw Triumph jocks as hairy-eared brutes; Triumph people ate raw meat and thought driving gloves were for dandy fops who drank light beer through a straw. Charmingly, each side was to be secretly in love with each other. MG and Triumph faded out of the U.S. market in the early 80's, victims of corporate avarice and terminal mismanagement. Triumph later went belly-up; MG, although still technically alive, has spent the past two decades on badge-engineered life support. All told, it was an ignominious end to one of the automotive industries more likable duels." Sam Smith Cheers, Joe Curry From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sat Jan 23 19:30:25 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 18:30:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> References: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <350804.73790.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Hi Joe, I think the excerpt below sums it up. I prefer the beast over the dainty lady. I bought my TR in the late 70s after having test driven TRs and an MG. The MG was pretty, but lacked power. I also preferred the lines of the TR4. It did, and still does, look menacing....That's my humble opinion, and I only drove one MG....The whole issue of MG vs. TR may well just come down to personalty. Pat TR4A '67 IRS (restoration almost complete) ________________________________ From: Joe Curry To: triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, January 23, 2010 5:54:17 PM Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph I saw this in Sept 09 Automobiles Magazine and thought I'd share: "You can be forgiven if the names don't mean anything to you. One is a pair of initials currently being slapped on Chinese-built Rover sedans; the other is a word usually used to reference old, oil-leaking motorcycles. Neither has appeared on a new car in this country in more than twenty-five years, but once, both were household names. In the decades following WWII, British Marques MG and Triumph essentially created the stateside market for the low-cost, high-fun roadster. By packaging pedestrian sedan components into rakish, droptop bodies, they introduced thousands of people to the joys of cornering and all but invented the wind-in-hair grin. And while the two companies battled each other in grand style at places like LeMans and the N|rburgring, the real contest took place in showrooms. It came down to a difference in personality: Triumph were raucous, snarly little things, all torque and attitude, while MGs were more refined, often slower, but usually better built. The dichotomy regularly carried over into ownership: According to lore, MG people wore string-back driving gloves and saw Triumph jocks as hairy-eared brutes; Triumph people ate raw meat and thought driving gloves were for dandy fops who drank light beer through a straw. Charmingly, each side was to be secretly in love with each other. MG and Triumph faded out of the U.S. market in the early 80's, victims of corporate avarice and terminal mismanagement. Triumph later went belly-up; MG, although still technically alive, has spent the past two decades on badge-engineered life support. All told, it was an ignominious end to one of the automotive industries more likable duels." Sam Smith Cheers, Joe Curry _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Jan 23 20:12:32 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 19:12:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> References: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <4B5BBAA0.1070204@gmail.com> Joe Curry wrote: > It came down to a difference in personality: Triumph were raucous, snarly > little things, all torque and attitude, I always thought of my Triumph more as a siren vixen, all attitude and always game. Red angora sweater, bright red lipstick and big red plastic sunglasses over a big mischievous grin. What better companion for a girl's day out. Teriann From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Jan 23 20:20:05 2010 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 22:20:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <350804.73790.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> <350804.73790.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CC6ABB4258A6BF-8A4C-16079@webmail-m042.sysops.aol.com> I never lusted after an MG. My brother and I never looked for them on the road as kids when my Dad was stationed in Germany. We used to compete against each other to see who could spot and name sports cars first. I did lust after the TR6. Easy decision for me. I have nothing against the MG, in fact, I rather like the MG T? series and could see myself owning one. The MGA isnt bad looking. But the TR6 was what interested me. Sometimes I cant believe I actually own one. -----Original Message----- From: P Caffrey To: Joe Curry ; triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jan 23, 2010 9:30 pm Subject: Re: [TR] MG vs. Triumph Hi Joe, I think the excerpt below sums it up. I prefer the beast over the dainty lady. I bought my TR in the late 70s after having test driven TRs and an MG. The MG was pretty, but lacked power. I also preferred the lines of the TR4. It did, and still does, look menacing....That's my humble opinion, and I only drove one MG....The whole issue of MG vs. TR may well just come down to personalty. Pat TR4A '67 IRS (restoration almost complete) ________________________________ From: Joe Curry To: triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, January 23, 2010 5:54:17 PM Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph I saw this in Sept 09 Automobiles Magazine and thought I'd share: "You can be forgiven if the names don't mean anything to you. One is a pair of initials currently being slapped on Chinese-built Rover sedans; the other is a word usually used to reference old, oil-leaking motorcycles. Neither has appeared on a new car in this country in more than twenty-five years, but once, both were household names. In the decades following WWII, British Marques MG and Triumph essentially created the stateside market for the low-cost, high-fun roadster. By packaging pedestrian sedan components into rakish, droptop bodies, they introduced thousands of people to the joys of cornering and all but invented the wind-in-hair grin. And while the two companies battled each other in grand style at places like LeMans and the N|rburgring, the real contest took place in showrooms. It came down to a difference in personality: Triumph were raucous, snarly little things, all torque and attitude, while MGs were more refined, often slower, but usually better built. The dichotomy regularly carried over into ownership: According to lore, MG people wore string-back driving gloves and saw Triumph jocks as hairy-eared brutes; Triumph people ate raw meat and thought driving gloves were for dandy fops who drank light beer through a straw. Charmingly, each side was to be secretly in love with each other. MG and Triumph faded out of the U.S. market in the early 80's, victims of corporate avarice and terminal mismanagement. Triumph later went belly-up; MG, although still technically alive, has spent the past two decades on badge-engineered life support. All told, it was an ignominious end to one of the automotive industries more likable duels." Sam Smith Cheers, Joe Curry _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From kingscreektrees at aol.com Sat Jan 23 21:39:51 2010 From: kingscreektrees at aol.com (kingscreektrees at aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 23:39:51 EST Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph Message-ID: <344e4.460a8ea0.388d2917@aol.com> I too once owned an MG but I am feeling much better now. Tim '57 TR3A, '65 Volvo PV544 Sport, '51 Chev 3-ton, '91 Mustang convertible (sorry about that one). Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3, Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From spook01 at comcast.net Sun Jan 24 03:03:59 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 10:03:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <2050805107.14313831264327439924.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> it was an interesting sort of thing..the MG's traded on pre-war looks and record holding.B triumph's original post war offer ing, the truly awful 1800, was not well received until the fast and furious tr3 B .B the tr3 and up were wonderful cars, while the poor td soldered on as the tf with no appreciable performance enhancement until the mga with great handling and swoopy looks stole the show. the mgb solidified the mg brand as top seller against the - to my mind- brawny and beautiful tr4 (i fess up, i have a 4).B the 4 was updated and became the tr6, while the mgb was left to slog along virtually unchanged until 1980 due to mismanagent and stupidity by management and labor unions in the UK. after the triumph brand disappeared, the truly inovative new mg appeared - the mgf.B i have rented and driven the f back in the mid-90's and it was a darn nice car.B the chinese made car is a great car as well, so you can only B HOPE the chinese re introduce the triumph brand with a new model. britain is basically a theme park now, so there ya go.B if you are of a bent, read "the end of the road" about the british car manufacturing..and the end thereof. ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: triumphs at autox.team.net, fot at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 7:54:17 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph I saw this in Sept 09 Automobiles Magazine and thought I'd share: "You can be forgiven if the names don't mean anything to you. B One is a pair of initials currently being slapped on Chinese-built Rover sedans; the other is a word usually used to reference old, oil-leaking motorcycles. B Neither has appeared on a new car in this country in more than twenty-five years, but once, both were household names. In the decades following WWII, British Marques MG and Triumph essentially created the stateside market for the low-cost, high-fun roadster. B By packaging pedestrian sedan components into rakish, droptop bodies, they introduced thousands of people to the joys of cornering and all but invented the wind-in-hair grin. B And while the two companies battled each other in grand style at places like LeMans and the N|rburgring, the real contest took place in showrooms. It came down to a difference in personality: Triumph were raucous, snarly little things, all torque and attitude, while MGs were more refined, often slower, but usually better built. B The dichotomy regularly carried over into ownership: According to lore, MG people wore string-back driving gloves and saw Triumph jocks as hairy-eared brutes; Triumph people ate raw meat and thought driving gloves were for dandy fops who drank light beer through a straw. B Charmingly, each side was to be secretly in love with each other. MG and Triumph faded out of the U.S. market in the early 80's, victims of corporate avarice and terminal mismanagement. B Triumph later went belly-up; MG, although still technically alive, has spent the past two decades on badge-engineered life support. B All told, it was an ignominious end to one of the automotive industries more likable duels." Sam Smith Cheers, Joe Curry Suggested annual donation B $11.47 You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From loumetelko at aol.com Sun Jan 24 05:09:49 2010 From: loumetelko at aol.com (loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 07:09:49 EST Subject: [TR] Grand Prix (1966) Message-ID: <3641b.5b43c7a.388d928d@aol.com> Well those two are good, but my personal favorite is "The Racers" with Kirk Douglas, lots of real race footage, This past summer there was really a top grade all European car show in Tiffin, Ohio where the participants were treated to a private showing of the Steve McQueen classic "LeMans". Plot was non existent but the in car race footage was state of the art for the 1971 production date. Don't miss it if given a chance. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jan 24 06:07:20 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 08:07:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <2050805107.14313831264327439924.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <4B5BFFB8.12386.14B8D877@localhost> On 24 Jan 2010 at 10:03, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > while the mgb was left to slog along virtually unchanged > until 1980 due to Not entirely true. They did attempt the MGC in 1967, essentially a B with a new 3-liter 6 wedged in and the suspension modified as required for it to fit. The MGC was not a success but it was at least an effort. And they built the MGB-GT V8 in 1973, a car never sold in the US. Curious that they'd still call it a B with the new engine. But then, the name MGB-GT was a known identity even if it was a mouthful to say. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Sun Jan 24 06:12:18 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 13:12:18 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> References: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <473612.37514.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> I love both makes, always have and have owned several different examples of most models on either side of the make fence. Wouldn't necessarily agree with the Sam Smith's overall article content or fact - but then most auto-journalists of today (IMHO) weren't born when the cars of which they write were being made, and their knowledge of the industry is virtually non-existent. Mr. Smith follows a familiar pattern. Jonmac From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jan 24 07:22:10 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 14:22:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <473612.37514.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <21232353.14091161264342930211.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> > love both makes, always have and have owned several different examples of mst models on either side of the make fence. I have to agree with Jonmac.B My first car at age 17 was a '64 Austin Healey Sprite.B It went about as fast as I probably should have been allowed to go, but brought an element of fun to driving I never knew existed from driving my mother's Galaxy or my father's Comet.B After the navy, my next car through college was a '68 MGB with wire wheels.B My sister still laughs describing seeing me perpetually bent under the hood, despite which the thing was actually darned reliable.B I can't tell whether it was my favorite car ever, or whether it's simply the youth and memories around it. After 22 ears of marriage, kids, mortgage and Toyota compacts, and another three years of restoration, for the past 5 years I've been driving my '59 TR3A TS 58667.B I love the looks better, the acceleration, and the cruising power on the freeway in overdrive to leave Toyota compacts behind.B Terry New Hampshire From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 24 08:07:37 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 09:07:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <4B5BFFB8.12386.14B8D877@localhost> References: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> <4B5BFFB8.12386.14B8D877@localhost> Message-ID: they are different cars, no doubt. I'm involved in both marques (72 TR6 & 73 MGB), and active in both local clubs - great people in both. it is curious that in larger cities (like Dallas/Fort Worth) there is a rivalry and disparagement of both towards the other. and a separation of Jaguar, Morgan, etc., but in smaller cities, there are "British Car Clubs" where they all get along famously. but I guess we all band together, with our Italian, German, and Japanese counterparts and disparage those big American monsters! From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Sun Jan 24 08:10:13 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 15:10:13 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <4B5BFFB8.12386.14B8D877@localhost> References: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> <4B5BFFB8.12386.14B8D877@localhost> Message-ID: <178087.76812.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Jim Muller wrote: They did attempt the MGC in 1967, essentially a B with a new 3-liter 6 wedged in Actually Jim, the 3 litre 6 wasn't a new engine. New certainly in its installation in the MGC but as a new power unit, it was in truth rather ancient. First saw the light of day in about 1954 as the BMC 'C' series power unit at 2.6 litres. Don't know if you have any Austin Westminsters, Austin 3 litre saloons or Wolseley 6/110's in the States - but if you do find one, check out the engine - and then look at one in an MGC. You won't see too much difference, apart from two SU's and different coloured paint :) Jonmac From rawanderer at comcast.net Sun Jan 24 08:33:01 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 10:33:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <344e4.460a8ea0.388d2917@aol.com> Message-ID: <20100124153314.1AB0A18765F@autox.team.net> Back in the early 1970s, I wanted a TR6. The local Triumph dealer torked me off so I wound up purchasing a MGB-GT. I did enjoy it, I must admit. For my combination second-childhood-midlife-crisis (couldn't afford a midlife crisis when it originally occurred), I bought a TR6. With 20/20 hindsight, I should have either brushed off the dealer's slight or found another Triumph dealer. Oh, well. (Interestingly enough, what turned me on to the Little British Cars was my best friend's brother's MGA back in the early 1960s. BobW Montgomeryville, PA 1974 TR6 (Pimento Red -- as befits a midlife crisis car!) -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kingscreektrees at aol.com Sent: Saturday, 23 January, 2010 11:40 PM To: spitlist at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] MG vs. Triumph I too once owned an MG but I am feeling much better now. Tim '57 TR3A, '65 Volvo PV544 Sport, '51 Chev 3-ton, '91 Mustang convertible (sorry about that one). Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3, Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as rawanderer at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From 60TR3A at cox.net Sun Jan 24 08:39:19 2010 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 08:39:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> References: <41F961F483E44F2ABD825675DAFF1726@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: I have owned a 60 TR3A (65-67), a 58 MGA (69-82), 79 MG Midget (86-94), 80 MGB (94-99),and my current 60 TR3A (04-present)! In between, I have owned a 240Z, a Porsche 924, and my current 911. I have completely enjoyed the MGs, TRs, and others. All have their charms and are infinitely better than American iron. Because of this craziness (it might be genetic) my son owns an 80 MGB & my daughter is currently looking for an MGB. :-) John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ On 23 Jan, 2010, at 6:54 PM, Joe Curry wrote: > I saw this in Sept 09 Automobiles Magazine and thought I'd share: > > "You can be forgiven if the names don't mean anything to you. One is a pair > of initials currently being slapped on Chinese-built Rover sedans; the other > is a word usually used to reference old, oil-leaking motorcycles. Neither > has appeared on a new car in this country in more than twenty-five years, > but once, both were household names. > > In the decades following WWII, British Marques MG and Triumph essentially > created the stateside market for the low-cost, high-fun roadster. By > packaging pedestrian sedan components into rakish, droptop bodies, they > introduced thousands of people to the joys of cornering and all but invented > the wind-in-hair grin. And while the two companies battled each other in > grand style at places like LeMans and the N|rburgring, the real contest took > place in showrooms. > > It came down to a difference in personality: Triumph were raucous, snarly > little things, all torque and attitude, while MGs were more refined, often > slower, but usually better built. The dichotomy regularly carried over into > ownership: According to lore, MG people wore string-back driving gloves and > saw Triumph jocks as hairy-eared brutes; Triumph people ate raw meat and > thought driving gloves were for dandy fops who drank light beer through a > straw. Charmingly, each side was to be secretly in love with each other. > > MG and Triumph faded out of the U.S. market in the early 80's, victims of > corporate avarice and terminal mismanagement. Triumph later went belly-up; > MG, although still technically alive, has spent the past two decades on > badge-engineered life support. All told, it was an ignominious end to one > of the automotive industries more likable duels." > > Sam Smith > > Cheers, > Joe Curry > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From kingscreektrees at aol.com Sun Jan 24 08:48:53 2010 From: kingscreektrees at aol.com (kingscreektrees at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 10:48:53 EST Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph Message-ID: <3a42d.2dd55dc3.388dc5e5@aol.com> In a message dated 24/01/2010 8:34:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: But then, the name MGB-GT was a known identity even if it was a mouthful to say. To add to this mouthful, the proper name for this car was actually the MG MGB-GT. MG being the brand and MGB-GT being the model. Just me being pedantic again but why not beat a dead horse.... Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3, Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From pethier at comcast.net Sun Jan 24 09:10:13 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 16:10:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <1069981800.15580541264348633524.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <726440121.15583161264349413703.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > series power unit at 2.6 litres. Don't know if you have any Austin > Westminsters, Austin 3 litre saloons or Wolseley 6/110's in the States Not so anyone would notice them. I'm sure that fewer than one person in a million in the USA would recognize any of these cars. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1994 Miata C-package 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From mcgaheyrx at aol.com Sun Jan 24 09:39:27 2010 From: mcgaheyrx at aol.com (mcgaheyrx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 11:39:27 EST Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph Message-ID: <3bb13.2c51b46f.388dd1bf@aol.com> In a message dated 1/24/2010 5:22:10 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: the chinese made car is a great car as well, so you can only B HOPE the chinese re introduce the triumph brand with a new model. Chinese re-intro the Triumph brand? not likely - BMW owns the name and doesn't seem likely to sell it From kinneyjr at msn.com Sun Jan 24 10:15:00 2010 From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 12:15:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph Message-ID: Jonmac, Could you tell us more about the "unfamiliar" pattern that the auto-journalists don't follow? Good stuff. Thanks, Jeremy '66 TR4A -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 10 Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 13:12:18 +0000 (GMT) From: John Macartney Subject: Re: [TR] MG vs. Triumph To: triumphs at autox.team.net, fot at autox.team.net Message-ID: <473612.37514.qm at web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I love both makes, always have and have owned several different examples of most models on either side of the make fence. Wouldn't necessarily agree with the Sam Smith's overall article content or fact - but then most auto-journalists of today (IMHO) weren't born when the cars of which they write were being made, and their knowledge of the industry is virtually non-existent. Mr. Smith follows a familiar pattern. Jonmac _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/ From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jan 24 10:35:04 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 12:35:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <178087.76812.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <4B5BFFB8.12386.14B8D877@localhost> Message-ID: <4B5C3E78.12292.15ADF7EE@localhost> On 24 Jan 2010 at 15:10, John Macartney wrote: > Actually Jim, the 3 litre 6 wasn't a new engine... > Don't know if you have any Austin Westminsters, Austin > 3 litre saloons or Wolseley 6/110's in the States - but > if you do find one, check out the engine Can't say I've ever seen any of those cars. If I have and ever looked at the engine I wouldn't have known what I was looking at! As for the MGC engine being new, I was paraphrasing something I read in a review back in the day, one of the car mags lamenting that MG hadn't used the existing engine from the A-H 3000. As I recall, the review implied clearly that MG had designed their own new 3 liter. Perhaps MG started with an existing engine and designed their own "application" of it. Or maybe the writer got it wrong. Seems to me we said that a day or to ago about another columnist, didn't we? Or maybe I misremember it. Naw, that's not it. Thanks for the correction. Now I'll not sleep a wink until I see a Wolselsy 6/100. In my dreams, maybe. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From chip19474 at aol.com Sun Jan 24 11:30:24 2010 From: chip19474 at aol.com (chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 13:30:24 EST Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph Message-ID: <3e072.2a7585e8.388debc0@aol.com> I can say from personal experience having owned a new TR6 and a new MGB back in the 1970's that this statement is accurate. My NEW TR6 turned out to have less than acceptable build quality. I realized how challenging it was manyl times during my first 12 months of warranty (and also learned a valuable lesson in breakdown preparedness!). I was warned by three work colleagues (all Brits) to stay away from British cars but the marketing efforts by Leyland sucked me in and won me over. Fast forwarding, I got so tired of greeting the technicians at the Triumph Dealership on a regular basis that I traded it in on a new flame red MGB. This car was amazing - I never took it back for any warranty claims; it actually shifted without requiring both arms to get it into secomd gear; the paint was flawless; it always always started - it ran faithfully for 10 years before I needed to sell it to make room for the family car; it could perhaps be running now as a restored car!!!??? But, as the author says, it didn't have the soul that my Triumphs had and that's what makes my TR6 come alive:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 1/23/2010 9:03:13 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: Triumph were raucous, snarly little things, all torque and attitude, while MGs were more refined, often slower, but usually better built. The From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 24 12:11:51 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 11:11:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Fot] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <371f3.3aea797b.388da3b8@aol.com> Message-ID: <08.AF.19307.87B9C5B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > As for the hairy brute stuff, I will only say that my > friend who was > arrested for driving around in a gorilla costume was driving an MG > convertible :). Clearly, the car was the problem. Had he been driving a Triumph, they would have just assumed he had forgotten to shave ! Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Sun Jan 24 13:08:18 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 20:08:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <4B5C3E78.12292.15ADF7EE@localhost> Message-ID: <671573821.14441991264363698344.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> the leyland managers didn't want two cars with the same powerplant competing in sales.B mg wanted to design their own engine, and had a alloy twin cam that would work, but it had to undergo development .B by then, there was no money for development , so a old lcv (and other uses as pointed out) engine was shoveled over to them. the carB was redesigned with torsion bar front suspension and other mods to make the tall old engine fit.B the car was conceived as a high speed touring car, but americans thought it was a sports car in the mgb mold.B it wasn't.B then engine was (and is) very heavy and doesn't rev that well. as a result the 'c' was dropped after only two years. it is a comfy car if you realize it's limitations.B it is not a chuckable sportscar , but on the highway, it is a smooth missile.B not what mg people wanted.B esp. that automatic box!! ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" < jimmuller @ rcn .com> To: Triumphs@ autox .team.net Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 11:35:04 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [TR] MG vs. Triumph On 24 Jan 2010 at 15:10, John Macartney wrote: > Actually Jim, the 3 litre 6 wasn't a new engine... > Don't know if you have any Austin Westminsters , Austin > 3 litre saloons or Wolseley 6/110's in the States - but > if you do find one, check out the engine Can't say I've ever seen any of those cars. B If I have and ever looked at the engine I wouldn't have known what I was looking at! B As for the MGC engine being new, I was paraphrasing something I read in a review back in the day, one of the car mags lamenting that MG hadn't used the existing engine from the A-H 3000. B As I recall, the review implied clearly that MG had designed their own new 3 liter. Perhaps MG started with an existing engine and designed their own "application" of it. B Or maybe the writer got it wrong. B Seems to me we said that a day or to ago about another columnist, didn't we? B Or maybe I misremember it. B Naw , that's not it. Thanks for the correction. B Now I'll not sleep a wink until I see a Wolselsy 6/100. B In my dreams, maybe. -- Jim Muller jimmuller @ rcn .com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net B http :// www .team.net/donate. html Suggested annual donation B $11.47 You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net Triumphs@ autox .team.net http :// autox .team.net/mailman/ listinfo /triumphs http :// www .team.net/archive From spook01 at comcast.net Sun Jan 24 13:10:50 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 20:10:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <719513480.14442671264363850487.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> "morgans" disparaged?? who doesn't love a kit car? ;-0 ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 9:07:37 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [TR] MG vs. Triumph they are different cars, no doubt. I'm involved in both marques (72 TR6 & 73 MGB), and active in both local clubs - great people in both. it is curious that in larger cities (like Dallas/Fort Worth) there is a rivalry and disparagement of both towards the other. B and a separation of Jaguar, Morgan, etc., but in smaller cities, there are "British Car Clubs" where they all get along famously. but I guess we all band together, with our Italian, German, and Japanese counterparts and disparage those big American monsters! Suggested annual donation B $11.47 You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From lbc.resto at verizon.net Sun Jan 24 14:15:53 2010 From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 16:15:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <08.AF.19307.87B9C5B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <371f3.3aea797b.388da3b8@aol.com> <08.AF.19307.87B9C5B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <1CA51AECC1654A9795282C54CDE87599@RAS> My first sports car back in the day was an early MGB. I quickly moved on to a TR4 and later a TR5 (sigh), as well as a couple of Lotuses (Loti?). 3 years ago it was chatting with an MGB owner looking to sell his car that got me thinking about getting a hobby car. Nice as that MGB was, it just didn't strike a spark in me and luckily a few weeks later I came across my TR4 trying to escape from a barn. I think that I would only get rid it if another TR5 came my way; so that's highly unlikely. -- Ian 62 TR4 From dkspence at telus.net Sun Jan 24 14:19:42 2010 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2010 14:19:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] MG vs Triumph In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: here you go Jim http://www.flickr.com/photos/mishmashmine/3903624478/ And if you want to know all about the MGC engine (and all MG engines ) read here http://www.mgexperience.net/article/mgenginehistory.html Now go have a nice long nap. : > On 24-Jan-10, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Now I'll not sleep a wink until I see a > Wolselsy 6/100. In my dreams, maybe. > > > > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 25 15:12:24 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 14:12:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] tr3 alternator Message-ID: <609673.16620.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> i have had enough messing around with the generator and voltage regulator. so i am converting to the alternator. bought a 2 wire ac delco 7127. one of the wires goes to ground, unfortunately my original made in Taiwan alternator has a lousy casting and i cant read the terminal numbers. which wire goes to ground? thanks Frank From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Jan 25 15:30:07 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 17:30:07 EST Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph Message-ID: <1e326.7424be0f.388f756f@aol.com> In a message dated 1/23/2010 9:03:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: It came down to a difference in personality: Triumph were raucous, snarly little things, all torque and attitude, while MGs were more refined, often slower, but usually better built Hey Joe, I know as an owner of multiple Triumphs that for much of the glory days of the competition between the two marques, one had a lot of choices of different models with Triumphs. Triumphs evolved over the years that they were produced. Three distinct changes in the legendary Hairy Chested TR series, several changes in the Spitfire series and then modern Shape of Things to Come the last of the TR series. Not to mention Stags, Heralds, etc. "Variety is the spice of life." With MG it basically came down to two types. You had chrome bumper and rubber bumper in midget or regular size. Ha! No comparison!!!!! Darrell From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 25 15:43:08 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 14:43:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] tr3 alternator In-Reply-To: <609673.16620.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <609673.16620.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6EBC0AE6CEFA4128877FC4A72392B8B6@jdnet.deere.com> > bought a 2 wire ac delco 7127. Perhaps I'm confused, Frank. A standard 7127 (aka 10Si) is called a "3 wire" alternator, it has two smaller tabs for control signals and a big post for the output. It is only grounded through the case (although there is usually a spare post where a ground cable can be attached if you wish). Looking at the back of the alternator), the left-hand tab is #1, which is the output to the warning light on the dash. The right-hand tab should be #2, the 'sense' input, which needs to see battery voltage. Optimum setup IMO is to run a separate wire from the starter solenoid to this terminal, but you can just jumper it to the output post if you want. I've attached a scan from a GM manual with a diagram. As usual, if anyone else wants a copy, email me offlist. -- Randall [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of AC Delco alternator diagrams 150dpi.JPG] From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 25 16:01:03 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 15:01:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] tr3 alternator In-Reply-To: <6EBC0AE6CEFA4128877FC4A72392B8B6@jdnet.deere.com> References: <609673.16620.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <6EBC0AE6CEFA4128877FC4A72392B8B6@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <482769.49649.qm@web111615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> DOH! (homer moment) i do have the right unit. i was writing from work without all my facts. well whats new? its not ground its the bat terminal that one wire goes to. at least those are the instructions from VTR that i printed. but your diagram was exactly what i needed thanks as usual Frank ________________________________ From: Randall To: Frank Fisher ; triumphs at autox.team..net Sent: Mon, January 25, 2010 2:43:08 PM Subject: RE: [TR] tr3 alternator > bought a 2 wire ac delco 7127. Perhaps I'm confused, Frank. A standard 7127 (aka 10Si) is called a "3 wire" alternator, it has two smaller tabs for control signals and a big post for the output. It is only grounded through the case (although there is usually a spare post where a ground cable can be attached if you wish). Looking at the back of the alternator), the left-hand tab is #1, which is the output to the warning light on the dash. The right-hand tab should be #2, the 'sense' input, which needs to see battery voltage. Optimum setup IMO is to run a separate wire from the starter solenoid to this terminal, but you can just jumper it to the output post if you want. I've attached a scan from a GM manual with a diagram. As usual, if anyone else wants a copy, email me offlist. -- Randall From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 16:07:07 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 15:07:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] tr3 alternator In-Reply-To: <609673.16620.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <609673.16620.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B5E241B.1050507@gmail.com> Frank Fisher wrote: > i have had enough messing around with the generator and voltage regulator. > so i am converting to the alternator. > bought a 2 wire ac delco 7127. one of the wires goes to ground, unfortunately my original made in Taiwan alternator has a lousy casting and i cant read the terminal numbers. which wire goes to ground? > thanks > Frank > To paraphrase Apple "There's a web page for that" www.expeditionlandrover.info/Delco_Alternators.html I wrote a primer on the conversion for the Series Land Rover crowd. Teriann From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Mon Jan 25 16:42:10 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 23:42:10 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <1e326.7424be0f.388f756f@aol.com> References: <1e326.7424be0f.388f756f@aol.com> Message-ID: <247603.24487.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Sorry, Darrell - I have to disagree. While MG may be known stateside for the T series, A, B, and Midget - you have to remember that MG also made a wide range of saloons as well, both pre and post war that were just as important to the company and its customers as the two seaters. You may not have seen the non-two seater models in the US as much as we did in Europe, but they're still MG's in every sense of the word and deserve absolute and equal recognition :) Jonmac ________________________________ From: "TR250Driver at aol.com" To: spitlist at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, 25 January, 2010 22:30:07 Subject: Re: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In a message dated 1/23/2010 9:03:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: It came down to a difference in personality: Triumph were raucous, snarly little things, all torque and attitude, while MGs were more refined, often slower, but usually better built Hey Joe, I know as an owner of multiple Triumphs that for much of the glory days of the competition between the two marques, one had a lot of choices of different models with Triumphs. Triumphs evolved over the years that they were produced. Three distinct changes in the legendary Hairy Chested TR series, several changes in the Spitfire series and then modern Shape of Things to Come the last of the TR series. Not to mention Stags, Heralds, etc. "Variety is the spice of life." With MG it basically came down to two types. You had chrome bumper and rubber bumper in midget or regular size. Ha! No comparison!!!!! Darrell Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From wayne at motorcarriage.com Mon Jan 25 17:05:15 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 19:05:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph In-Reply-To: <247603.24487.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <1e326.7424be0f.388f756f@aol.com> <247603.24487.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <39811F5952B54304BF619C18A1068E90@artvac412870f0> I'd have to agree with You they had some diversity in the Product line. I grew up with more than a few Magnette's and 1100's that did make it to our Shores. Still less than the Herald and 2000 Lines of almost the same period. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 75 TR6 Other Brit Saloons and Light Trucks -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Macartney" Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 6:42 PM To: ; ; ; Subject: Re: [TR] MG vs. Triumph > Sorry, Darrell - I have to disagree. While MG may be known stateside for > the T > series, A, B, and Midget - you have to remember that MG also made a wide > range > of saloons as well, both pre and post war that were just as important to > the > company and its customers as the two seaters. You may not have seen the > non-two seater models in the US as much as we did in Europe, but they're > still > MG's in every sense of the word and deserve absolute and equal recognition > :) > Jonmac > > > > > ________________________________ > From: "TR250Driver at aol.com" > > To: spitlist at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; > fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, 25 January, 2010 22:30:07 > Subject: Re: [TR] MG > vs. Triumph > > In a message dated 1/23/2010 9:03:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > spitlist at cox.net writes: > > It came down to a difference in personality: > Triumph were raucous, snarly > little things, all torque and attitude, while > MGs were more refined, often > slower, but usually better built > > > Hey Joe, > I > know as an owner of multiple Triumphs that for much of the glory days of > the > competition between the two marques, one had a lot of choices of > different > models with Triumphs. Triumphs evolved over the years that they were > produced. Three distinct changes in the legendary Hairy Chested TR > series, > several changes in the Spitfire series and then modern Shape of Things to > Come the last of the TR series. Not to mention Stags, Heralds, etc. > "Variety > is the spice of life." With MG it basically came down to two types. You > had chrome bumper and rubber bumper in midget or regular size. Ha! No > comparison!!!!! > Darrell > Suggested annual donation > $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as wayne at motorcarriage.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From wayne at motorcarriage.com Mon Jan 25 17:14:58 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 19:14:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: MG vs. Triumph Message-ID: I'd have to agree with You they had some diversity in the Product line. I grew up with more than a few Magnette's and 1100's that did make it to our Shores and thru my Father's dealership. Still less than the Herald and 2000 Lines that were here simultaneously. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 75 TR6 Other Brit Saloons and Light Trucks > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "John Macartney" > Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 6:42 PM > To: ; ; ; > > Subject: Re: [TR] MG vs. Triumph > >> Sorry, Darrell - I have to disagree. While MG may be known stateside for >> the T >> series, A, B, and Midget - you have to remember that MG also made a wide >> range >> of saloons as well, both pre and post war that were just as important to >> the >> company and its customers as the two seaters. You may not have seen the >> non-two seater models in the US as much as we did in Europe, but they're >> still >> MG's in every sense of the word and deserve absolute and equal >> recognition :) >> Jonmac >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: "TR250Driver at aol.com" >> >> To: spitlist at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; >> fot at autox.team.net >> Sent: Mon, 25 January, 2010 22:30:07 >> Subject: Re: [TR] MG >> vs. Triumph >> >> In a message dated 1/23/2010 9:03:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, >> spitlist at cox.net writes: >> >> It came down to a difference in personality: >> Triumph were raucous, snarly >> little things, all torque and attitude, while >> MGs were more refined, often >> slower, but usually better built >> >> >> Hey Joe, >> I >> know as an owner of multiple Triumphs that for much of the glory days of >> the >> competition between the two marques, one had a lot of choices of >> different >> models with Triumphs. Triumphs evolved over the years that they were >> produced. Three distinct changes in the legendary Hairy Chested TR >> series, >> several changes in the Spitfire series and then modern Shape of Things >> to >> Come the last of the TR series. Not to mention Stags, Heralds, etc. >> "Variety >> is the spice of life." With MG it basically came down to two types. >> You >> had chrome bumper and rubber bumper in midget or regular size. Ha! No >> comparison!!!!! >> Darrell From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Jan 25 19:33:35 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 20:33:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] MG vs. Triumph References: <1e326.7424be0f.388f756f@aol.com> <247603.24487.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201001252034656.SM00572@HomeOffLMMarr2> I was always partial to the Y type and Z type saloons. Very elegant... Mike (Ex-BGT and MGA Coupe owner) ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: ; ; ; Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 5:42 PM Subject: Re: [TR] MG vs. Triumph > Sorry, Darrell - I have to disagree. While MG may be known stateside for > the T > series, A, B, and Midget - you have to remember that MG also made a wide > range > of saloons as well, both pre and post war that were just as important to > the > company and its customers as the two seaters. You may not have seen the > non-two seater models in the US as much as we did in Europe, but they're > still > MG's in every sense of the word and deserve absolute and equal recognition > :) > Jonmac > > > > > ________________________________ > From: "TR250Driver at aol.com" > > To: spitlist at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; > fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, 25 January, 2010 22:30:07 > Subject: Re: [TR] MG > vs. Triumph > > In a message dated 1/23/2010 9:03:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > spitlist at cox.net writes: > > It came down to a difference in personality: > Triumph were raucous, snarly > little things, all torque and attitude, while > MGs were more refined, often > slower, but usually better built > > > Hey Joe, > I > know as an owner of multiple Triumphs that for much of the glory days of > the > competition between the two marques, one had a lot of choices of > different > models with Triumphs. Triumphs evolved over the years that they were > produced. Three distinct changes in the legendary Hairy Chested TR > series, > several changes in the Spitfire series and then modern Shape of Things to > Come the last of the TR series. Not to mention Stags, Heralds, etc. > "Variety > is the spice of life." With MG it basically came down to two types. You > had chrome bumper and rubber bumper in midget or regular size. Ha! No > comparison!!!!! > Darrell > Suggested annual donation > $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From sam at spit6.com Tue Jan 26 15:58:53 2010 From: sam at spit6.com (Sam Gentry) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2010 17:58:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Too many projects - Spit for sale Message-ID: <221579DE413303438753FC6D339488EC01881E@firewall.local.local> OK, I just have to face it... I have entirely too many projects and not enough room. I think I am going to have to let one of my Spits go. This is not an easy decision, I have had both of these cars for more than 10 years. One is a dark blue '72 and the other is a light blue '80. Each of them has a hard top. The 72 has a Triumph hard top and the 80 has a fiberglass after market hard top. I would really like one of them to go to someone who will take care it and enjoy it the way that I have. If you are in Central Virginia (Charlottesville area) contact me off the list and lets talk cars!! Sam From goh62agan at verizon.net Tue Jan 26 20:53:10 2010 From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2010 22:53:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] relays -to use or not to use Message-ID: List, Where to begin? Should I even use relays? I have a basic understanding of relays and how they work but I need to know where I can draw power from to operate the switches. I'm assembling aTR4 with a neg earth and converted to an alternator. The fuel pump is replaced with an electric pump, and the fan is also electric. The pump and the fan are not wired in. My plan is to add a relay and fuse to each of these circuits. At the risk of having a design by committee I'd like some suggestions on how to proceed. The AdvanceAuto-wire site proposes relays and fuse panel for the fuel pump, horns and electric fan..http://www.advanceautowire.com/. Should I make the wiring de novo , or build it off of something Like the JEGS site..http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Electric-Fan-Wiring-Harness-Kits/ 758607/10002/-1. The plan is to have a cutoff switch at the dash and inertia switch( if I can find one) for the fuel pump. Is there a simple way to wire this through the relay? There is the AdvancedAuto-wire setup where power from the solenoid terminal or ignition wire -> fuse panel -> (splits) to both power in to the relay then out to each ground -> 1) switch 2) -> fuel pump. OR Do I wire power from the ignition switch through the cut off switch with standard relay wiring to ground etc. OR None of the above. OR It depends. The wiring for the fan would be similar except with a Thermostat and an on -off -auto switch. Should I add relays to the horn and headlamp circuits? Any good places to find switches, relays, wire, etc ? The car has been apart for twenty years, After coming this far, I'd hate to turn the ignition and have it autocombust. I look forward to your easy to follow directions. Gary O From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 27 00:02:07 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2010 23:02:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] relays -to use or not to use In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <8A.1C.01403.FE4EF5B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Gary, To a large extent, these are personal decisions. The factory wiring layout is actually adequate, so you don't really need to add the hassle and extra wiring for relays, if you don't want to. Of course you'll need to consider the requirements of any added devices, like your cooling fan & fuel pump, but they can be met without relays, if you want. > The AdvanceAuto-wire site If you want to totally rewire the car with high quality wiring, it's hard to go wrong with the AAW kit. And it can be installed differently than Dan's recommendation, to suit your own wants & needs, if desired. > Should I make the wiring de novo Well, that has always been my approach, but I am quite comfortable doing so. If you aren't comfortable with electrical stuff (and don't want to become so) then a more structured approach may be easier for you, both now and later. > The plan is to have a cutoff switch at the dash and inertia > switch( if > I can find one) for the fuel pump. A quick Google shows inertia switches available at Amazon & Pegasus. No doubt other places as well. > Is there a simple way to > wire this through the relay? Unless you are installing a high current racing (or fuel injection) type pump, I wouldn't bother with a relay. At the low pressures & flows required by our cars, the pump just doesn't draw that much current. You can just wire it to the ignition switch, with the cutoff and inertia switches in series with the pump. However, if you want to install a relay ala AAW, then the output of the relay becomes just like the output of the switch, and you can wire anything to it. That means the pump current still passes through your cutoff switch, and inertia switch. Another approach is to use a purpose-made relay that senses whether the engine is turning and shuts off the pump if the engine dies. More expensive than a standard relay, but comparable to a relay plus inertia switch. These are used on many cars with Bosch fuel injection (my VW Rabbit had one with an integrated fuse as well). http://tinyurl.com/ydbkqbf > The wiring for the fan would be similar Fans typically draw pretty high current, especially when starting, so I would suggest using a relay here. That way, only the wiring to the relay & fan needs to carry the full fan current, the wiring to the dash & temperature switches can be smaller (and so can the switches). My preference here is for a purpose-made relay that does more, eg, http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16759/10002/-1?CT=999 includes a temperature probe and adjustable temperature. The AC input can be used for your override switch. > Should I add relays to the horn and headlamp circuits? Again, your choice. I had them on my TR3A, and will soon be adding them to my 'project' TR3. I want the horns & headlights as loud & bright as possible, and relays help achieve that goal by maximizing the power delivered to them. > Any good places to find switches, relays, wire, etc ? Sorry, I don't have any single place to recommend. I get most of mine from flea-bay. However, this site: http://www.madelectrical.com seems to offer some quality components at reasonable prices. I particularly like this one: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml although I haven't actually ordered one yet. Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 27 11:20:37 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2010 12:20:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] brake cylinders Message-ID: do brake cylinders go bad slowly? without leaking? or are they more like a switch - either they work or don't? From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 27 11:42:45 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2010 11:42:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] brake cylinders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <659713BF2F594AD0BECEE17F207DF63B@bboffice> Typically they would go slowly as the parts wear. This, of course, would be in the absence of any traumatic outside forces. Symptoms might be: 1. Noticing the pedal slowly going down as you are holding the brake firmly, as if you were at a stop light on a hill. (probably need to rebuild a cylinder or look for visible sign of a leak) 2. Or, the pedal goes down a little further than it used to before you have good braking action. (could be fluif or adjustment is needed) 3. Or, you find you need a second pump of the brakes to get a good stop (this is when it is time to quit driving and get it fixed now!) This was my case but fortunately I found that it was just adjustment of the stroke of the rod in the master cylinder that corrected it. Brakes are nothing to fool with if you are not 100% competent in this area, take it to a professional and get them look at. The opinions express here are my own, Bill '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:21 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] brake cylinders do brake cylinders go bad slowly? without leaking? or are they more like a switch - either they work or don't? Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From chandler.rick at comcast.net Wed Jan 27 14:11:09 2010 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2010 13:11:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] Drooping Front Scuttle on my TR3A Message-ID: <2C94B1381D26438C9DE6AEE3E1199C75@ricksoffice> The passenger side of my TR3A front scuttle is drooping and interfering with the top forward edge of the door. I saw this problem when I was assembling the rebuilt body panels 2 years ago, and I applied some upward brute force to the scuttle to obtain clearance with the passenger side door. At the time, I had a 1/8" gap between the two pieces and was a happy guy. Today, after all body work and painting is complete, the gap has disappeared and paint is chipping at the interface. The car has less than 500 miles on it, none of it with a passenger, so I doubt that this new problem resulted from pressing down on the scuttle on entering or leaving the passenger seat. At the moment I'm using a small jack between the floor and the scuttle to raise the scuttle a bit, but I'm not sure how far I should go. The idea here is to permanently bend the scuttle upwards, which will likely take a momentary gap of, say, 3/8". Is my thinking straight on this? Rick in Seattle 1960 Triumph TR3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special 1972 Norton 750 Commando Combat 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 From don at napanet.net Wed Jan 27 16:29:11 2010 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2010 15:29:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 on BaT Message-ID: <20100127234210.2357524DCF2@mail.napanet.net> Interesting BaT TR4: [] Resurrected Club Racer: 1963 Triumph TR4 From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Jan 28 08:05:07 2010 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 08:05:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] recovering seats Message-ID: I am finally getting around to recovering my TR3A seats. I have only had my Moss seat kits for 2 years. :-| I have the one seat stripped down, I cleaned up the springs and then sprayed them with Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer (a spray version of naval jelly). So my question is what type of spray paint would the list suggest? Is there any special need given the constant flexing if the springs??? And since I need to run over to the Depot to buy the paint, is there an appropriate color? Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Jan 28 11:30:57 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 12:30:57 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] recovering seats Message-ID: <1979428609.25249.1264703457363.JavaMail.root@vms170003.mailsrvcs.net> From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Jan 28 12:30:58 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 14:30:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] BRING A TRAILER POSTING Message-ID: <8CC6E678D31150B-7034-41B1@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com> TRIUMPH LIST: The subject TR4 that was posted to the list is a project that Uncle Jack and I reviewed by flying out to Portland a few years ago. It is likely the finest example of a TRIUMPH ROLLER that could be a race car or a street car, that you will ever find. The owner decided to continue the project at that time rather than sell. Once again, he has decided to sell, as he needs to respond to business pressures. Dave Talbott is a highly regarded friend and someone anyone would find a pleasure in doing business with. I have no financial interest....if are seriously looking, feel free to contact me for more information. n197tr4 at cs.com From dkspence at telus.net Fri Jan 29 12:42:49 2010 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 12:42:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 top on a TR4A? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Has anyone converted a TR4A with a TR6 top? Will it fit? What mods are required? Does it seal better? Any info appreciated. Thanks Don From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Jan 29 12:57:37 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 14:57:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: recovering seats Message-ID: Some issues with sending this email. hopefully it will make it through this time. On 28 Jan, 2010, at 11:30 AM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote: John - I heard that lime green is in vogue right now. :) actually, mine were unpainted and perhaps why they went south a long time ago. I sprayed my replacements with black Rustoleum about 15 years ago. there is some discoloration on the driver's side that appears to be the start of rust. I hadn't gotten around to that point in my project but was going to ask our resident guru about powdercoating. Fred? Let me know what you do. Also - did you find a source for the tacking strip that goes around the base of the back. Carl - Tampa 1961 TR3A TS81802LO Body Off Restoration Completion Date: NATC 2010 http://vtr2010.org/ http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ (I need to update my pictures; 11/27/09 Jan 28, 2010 03:05:30 PM, 60TR3A at cox.net wrote: I am finally getting around to recovering my TR3A seats. I have only had my Moss seat kits for 2 years. :-| I have the one seat stripped down, I cleaned up the springs and then sprayed them with Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer (a spray version of naval jelly). So my question is what type of spray paint would the list suggest? Is there any special need given the constant flexing if the springs??? And since I need to run over to the Depot to buy the paint, is there an appropriate color? Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Jan 29 17:22:37 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 00:22:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] recovering seats In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1212467815.1317231264810956822.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >So my question is what type of spray paint would the >list suggest? B Is there any special need given the constant flexing if the >the paint? Hi, John.B When I took my seats apart to restore them, the springs were rusted and the back quarter were unrepairable.B I laced old bed springs in with a hog-nose and clips. To take care of the rust, I sprayed with phosphoric acid until the rust was neutralized and turned a hard gray color, then rinsed thoroughly. As for paint, I went with POR-15.B These are original seat springs that will now live longer than I will.B Did the same for the pan and seatback metal also. Terry Smith, '59 TR3AB TS 58667 New Hampshire where it's 3 degrees F. outside right now, but I have had doors on my garage since yesterday!!!!! From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Jan 29 18:41:10 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 20:41:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] HIF SU Carb Message-ID: I pulled a set of HIF SU 1 1/2" carbs and intake out of the trunk of a spitfire thats been sitting in a parts yard since the 80's. Apparently the engine was sold out of the car and the carbs were put in the trunk. I didn't think Spits came with HIF carbs; or did they? I'am in the process of rebuilding them. I don't see them listed in the parts catalog. I'am assuming the MGB hif parts will work. ( seals, ect.) Moss lists those. Thanks Al From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 30 06:46:15 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 08:46:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] recovering seats In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201001300846.16206.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday 28 January 2010 10:05:07 am John A. Wise wrote: > I am finally getting around to recovering my TR3A seats. I have only had > my Moss seat kits for 2 years. :-| I have the one seat stripped down, I > cleaned up the springs and then sprayed them with Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer > (a spray version of naval jelly). So my question is what type of spray > paint would the list suggest? Is there any special need given the > constant flexing if the springs??? And since I need to run over to the > Depot to buy the paint, is there an appropriate color? > > Thanks > > John John, On my previous 63 TR4 restoration, which has the TR3A seat, I took the springs and pans outside and sand blasted them with "black beauty" fine media. It was the only way I could get them rust free. Then I painted them with Rust-Oleum red primer, gray primer and finally gloss black. I also added some extra firm foam + jute webbing to the springs to add extra support. Bob From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Jan 30 08:26:46 2010 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 08:26:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] recovering seats In-Reply-To: <201001300846.16206.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201001300846.16206.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Wow, you really did a job!!! I ended up using gloss black Rust-Oleum paint, as well BTW, I asked one of my wife's colleagues, who reupholsters furniture as a hobby, if there was anything I could do to fit a small crack in my foam. She is fixing the crack and is also glueing something that looks like rug padding to the bottom of the foam (needs a special glue) to spread out the stress of the springs. When she gives it back I will find out what it is called & pass it along. Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ On 30 Jan, 2010, at 6:46 AM, Bob wrote: > On Thursday 28 January 2010 10:05:07 am John A. Wise wrote: >> I am finally getting around to recovering my TR3A seats. I have only had >> my Moss seat kits for 2 years. :-| I have the one seat stripped down, I >> cleaned up the springs and then sprayed them with Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer >> (a spray version of naval jelly). So my question is what type of spray >> paint would the list suggest? Is there any special need given the >> constant flexing if the springs??? And since I need to run over to the >> Depot to buy the paint, is there an appropriate color? >> >> Thanks >> >> John > John, > > On my previous 63 TR4 restoration, which has the TR3A seat, I took the springs > and pans outside and sand blasted them with "black beauty" fine media. > > It was the only way I could get them rust free. > > Then I painted them with Rust-Oleum red primer, gray primer and finally gloss > black. > > I also added some extra firm foam + jute webbing to the springs to add extra > support. > > Bob From goh62agan at verizon.net Sat Jan 30 08:39:10 2010 From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 10:39:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr4 under dash brackets Message-ID: <89921fbf576b0b05546ed4935bf191ee@verizon.net> Seven inches of snow and still falling. Guess I'll be here a while. Can someone send me a photo of where these supports go? The longer one I can figure out. The shorter piece has me stumped. Couldn't find any pictures in the manuals. http://s870.photobucket.com/albums/ab269/goh62agan/? action=view¤t=IMG_1772.jpg&newest=1 Thanks Gary O From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 30 09:08:39 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 11:08:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr4 under dash brackets In-Reply-To: <89921fbf576b0b05546ed4935bf191ee@verizon.net> References: <89921fbf576b0b05546ed4935bf191ee@verizon.net> Message-ID: <201001301108.39619.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 30 January 2010 10:39:10 am Gary O'Hagan wrote: > Seven inches of snow and still falling. > Guess I'll be here a while. > Can someone send me a photo of where > these supports go? The longer one I can > figure out. The shorter piece has me stumped. > Couldn't find any pictures in the manuals. > http://s870.photobucket.com/albums/ab269/goh62agan/? > action=view¤t=IMG_1772.jpg&newest=1 > Thanks > Gary O > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as yellowtr at adelphia.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > Gary, Those brackets are to secure the steering under the dash. My 4 is currently in storage but if you need the parts diagram ping me and I will forward you the .pdf. The parts blowup is on page 173 and the shorter part # 35 (611532) is the tie rod steering column clamp rear to dash. If memory serves me correct, the part is positioned vertical from the clamp to the dash. Bob From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 30 11:57:26 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 12:57:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] sears battery charger Message-ID: <9C0B781CE7694345993DA047F5712E4A@ranteer.local> I was in sears today (getting a new battery for the wife's car) and I saw a $29.99 battery charger/maintainer - with a bright yellow TR3a on it!!!!!!! From bjzwissler at gmail.com Sat Jan 30 13:32:37 2010 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 15:32:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Brackets Message-ID: <4B649765.6030902@gmail.com> Here's a link to a photo showing both brackets. The long one is easily seen, the short one is running behind the speedo cable and goes from the top of the aluminum steering column bracket up and back to the firewall. http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=3365859009/PictureID=148830735009/a=39977665_39977665/otsc=SHR/otsi=SPIClink/COBRAND_NAME=snapfish/ Related to this question, I'm just finishing up my interior and the parts manual shows a bracket running from below the glovebox back the firewall. I don't have this bracket and can find no evidence on the firewall of attachment points. Did this get eliminated at some point? The TR4A center radio/heater console seems to keep the dash pretty stiff without that bracket. Ben...... -- Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 From goh62agan at verizon.net Sat Jan 30 14:07:49 2010 From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 16:07:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Brackets In-Reply-To: <4B649765.6030902@gmail.com> References: <4B649765.6030902@gmail.com> Message-ID: Ben, Thanks for the photo. If I can't figure it out from this then somethings wrong. Sorry I can't help with the glove box bracket. Mine is missing. 62 TR4. And thanks to all who replied. Gary On Jan 30, 2010, at 3:32 PM, Ben Zwissler wrote: > Here's a link to a photo showing both brackets. The long one is > easily seen, the short one is running behind the speedo cable and goes > from the top of the aluminum steering column bracket up and back to > the firewall. > > http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=3365859009/ > PictureID=148830735009/a=39977665_39977665/otsc=SHR/otsi=SPIClink/ > COBRAND_NAME=snapfish/ > > Related to this question, I'm just finishing up my interior and the > parts manual shows a bracket running from below the glovebox back the > firewall. I don't have this bracket and can find no evidence on the > firewall of attachment points. Did this get eliminated at some point? > The TR4A center radio/heater console seems to keep the dash pretty > stiff without that bracket. > > Ben...... > > -- > Ben Zwissler > bjzwissler at gmail.com > Columbus, IN > 1966 Triumph TR4A > 1973 MG Midget > 1980 Triumph TR8 > 2007 Mazda RX8 > 2002 Yamaha FZ1 > 2003 Honda ST1300 > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as goh62agan at verizon.net > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From alramsay at mts.net Sat Jan 30 14:41:38 2010 From: alramsay at mts.net (Al Ramsay) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 15:41:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] Transmission Replacements Message-ID: I need to replace my 4 speed transmission in my 1969 GT6+ I had it rebuild last year and after 5 months a large piece of the laygear let go and that was that. Any advice to avoid this costly replacement again. I was thinking of the Toyota or Ford replacement but feel the kits are very overpriced. I think I could convert one myself or just order a brand new rebuilt 4 speed ( I don't really feel the need for overdrive on the highway). Someone out there must have done this before. Thanks Al 69 GT6+ and 59 TR3A. From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Jan 30 15:30:33 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 17:30:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Transmission Replacements In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4B646CB9.23336.C563528@localhost> On 30 Jan 2010 at 15:41, Al Ramsay wrote: > I need to replace my 4 speed transmission in my 1969 GT6+ I had it > rebuild last year and after 5 months a large piece of the laygear > let go and that was that... I was thinking of the Toyota or Ford > replacement but feel the kits are very overpriced. They are available, e.g. Quantum Mechanics (Quantumechanics.com) has a Ford 5-speed drop-in. But I guess it depends on what one considers overpriced. IIRC his unit is over $2000 but it includes a driveshaft and I think bell housing too. When the very loose gearbox in my GT6 let go after I'd had it a year I ended up replacing it with a rebuilt unit from Spitbits for much less than QM's Ford unit. I'd consider a replacement but I sorta' like the aesthetics of using an original Triumph part. After two years it developed a whine on overrun in 2nd, prompting me finally to tear it down last year. I didn't find the cause I was looking for but after the teardown it shifts much better. The noise is still there and getting worse and now after more observation and thought I'm thinking it is a laygear thrust washer. Eventually I'll pull it apart again and with luck I can replace them without having to remove the entire mainshaft. Or maybe I'll spring for an upgrade after all. Anyway, the point is that a rebuilt unit can be much cheaper and may be okay but may not be better. But anything is better than one which needs to be carried in a basket. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 30 16:21:20 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 18:21:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Brackets In-Reply-To: <4B649765.6030902@gmail.com> References: <4B649765.6030902@gmail.com> Message-ID: <201001301821.20659.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 30 January 2010 03:32:37 pm Ben Zwissler wrote: > Here's a link to a photo showing both brackets. The long one is easily > seen, the short one is running behind the speedo cable and goes from the > top of the aluminum steering column bracket up and back to the firewall. > > http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=3365859009/PictureID=14883073500 > 9/a=39977665_39977665/otsc=SHR/otsi=SPIClink/COBRAND_NAME=snapfish/ > > Related to this question, I'm just finishing up my interior and the > parts manual shows a bracket running from below the glovebox back the > firewall. I don't have this bracket and can find no evidence on the > firewall of attachment points. Did this get eliminated at some point? > The TR4A center radio/heater console seems to keep the dash pretty stiff > without that bracket. > > Ben...... > Ben, I have that bracket on my 63 TR4. It is secured by 2 fine threaded phillips screws on the front just under the glove box. The bracket has 2 welded nuts on the front for the screws. The rear is attached with 1 1/4 28 bolt through and attaches to a welded nut on the body. The part # is 610592 and is called a dash bracket. The end that faces towards the engine is angled at about 30 degrees in order to conform with firewall area. Every once in awhile I see them come up on Ebay. I am guessing it should be there for the 4A as I have one on my 72 TR6 project that fits in the same place and is the same bracket. Look at the TR4 parts manual and you will find the part as # 49 on page 169. If you need a copy of the parts manual .pdf, email me off list and I will ship one to you. Bob From bjzwissler at gmail.com Sat Jan 30 18:00:35 2010 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 20:00:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Brackets In-Reply-To: <201001301821.20659.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <4B649765.6030902@gmail.com> <201001301821.20659.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <4B64D633.10104@gmail.com> Thanks, Bob. I have the parts manual, just not the part. That's how I realized I was missing something. I see the two holes to attach it at the rear under the glovebox door, but have hadn't seen anywhere for it to attach at the firewall. I'll look for the welded nut at the firewall. As I keep consuming parts maybe I'll run across it but I'm near the last of the parts and haven't found it yet. If I don't find one I'll just fabricate it. It doesn't look very complicated. Thanks, Ben.... Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 On 1/30/2010 6:21 PM, Bob wrote: > > Ben, > > I have that bracket on my 63 TR4. It is secured by 2 fine threaded phillips > screws on the front just under the glove box. The bracket has 2 welded nuts on > the front for the screws. The rear is attached with 1 1/4 28 bolt through and > attaches to a welded nut on the body. > > The part # is 610592 and is called a dash bracket. > > The end that faces towards the engine is angled at about 30 degrees in order > to conform with firewall area. > > Every once in awhile I see them come up on Ebay. > > I am guessing it should be there for the 4A as I have one on my 72 TR6 project > that fits in the same place and is the same bracket. > > Look at the TR4 parts manual and you will find the part as # 49 on page 169. > > If you need a copy of the parts manual .pdf, email me off list and I will ship > one to you. > > Bob From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jan 30 21:24:48 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 23:24:48 EST Subject: [TR] MoMa experience Message-ID: <165e4.63bd789b.38966010@cs.com> I thought I would relate a recent experience with having my TR3 temp gauge rebuilt by Mp Ma Instruments in Albuquerque. I figured I better send it off now since I will be needing it sometime this spring or summer. I sent the gauge off on Jan 18. I got confirmation of delivery on Jan 21. The rebuilt gauge arrived at my home on Jan 26. Looks great and works OK. Dave From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 30 21:37:06 2010 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 20:37:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4A - WTB LEAF SPRINGS AND MOUNTS Message-ID: <679816.19621.qm@web37502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> List Members- I am looking for a set of leaf springs and mounts (front and rear) for the straight axle TR4A. Does anyone have a spare set? Thanks, Chad in Tulsa From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jan 31 06:05:22 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 13:05:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] MoMa experience In-Reply-To: <165e4.63bd789b.38966010@cs.com> Message-ID: <196218890.1675811264943122025.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >I thought I would relate a recent experience with having my TR3 temp gauge rebuilt by Mp Ma Instruments in Albuquerque.B B I sent the gauge off on Jan 18. B I got >confirmation of delivery on Jan 21. B The rebuilt gauge arrived at my home on Jan 26. B Looks great and works OK. Dave, my experience was phased 180 out from that.B I sent it out in early January a few years ago, it took them about five months because, as they put it, their concourse customers came first, and when I finally go them back, they looked like crap.B Needles were yellow and rusted.B Over $700 later, I have guages I had to swap out for SunPro. Of all the parts and service providers I dealt with during my TR3A ground-up, I have respect and admiration for all but one.B B Maybe Mo-Ma needs a small guy's business again because of the economy, but I'll never give it to them. Terry New Hampshire From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Jan 31 07:05:45 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 07:05:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] MoMa experience In-Reply-To: <196218890.1675811264943122025.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <196218890.1675811264943122025.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4B658E39.7090106@dfn.com> terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >> I thought I would relate a recent experience with having my TR3 temp gauge >> > rebuilt by Mp Ma Instruments in Albuquerque.B B I sent the gauge off on Jan > 18. B I got >confirmation of delivery on Jan 21. B The rebuilt gauge arrived > at my home on Jan 26. B Looks great and works OK. > > > > > > > Dave, my experience was phased 180 out from that.B I sent it out in early > January a few years ago, it took them about five months because, as they put > it, their concourse customers came first, and when I finally go them back, > they looked like crap.B Needles were yellow and rusted.B Over $700 later, I > have guages I had to swap out for SunPro. > > > > Of all the parts and service providers I dealt with during my TR3A ground-up, > I have respect and admiration for all but one.B B Maybe Mo-Ma needs a small > guy's business again because of the economy, but I'll never give it to them. > From watching this list for the ~ last fifteen years, MoMa has gone through a few changes. Until about 2004-5, they had a great reputation for quick service and good work for all, and after 2004-5, there were a number of people who had tried to engage their services and found that they were put off by MoMa because the owners said they were going to strictly concentrate on high-end (read Jag) customers. Dave's experience suggests that the high-end business has dropped off, and all are welcome once again. Bad experiences in the recent past might deter people, but, it seems MoMa is now back to its usual universally good service. I wouldn't kick `em in the ass for a temporary belief that the Hollywood elite were going to carry them. There are too few enough good gauge rebuilders around these days (now that Nisonger seems to be crap on wheels) that I would want to piss on one more because it made a marketing mistake.... Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jan 31 08:15:46 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 10:15:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] MoMa experience In-Reply-To: <4B658E39.7090106@dfn.com> References: <196218890.1675811264943122025.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <4B658E39.7090106@dfn.com> Message-ID: I can tell you that many of the 6-Pack guys are turning to West Valley Instruments for having their gauges rebuilt. Morris only works on British car instruments, quotes a firm price, a quick turn around time and sticks to both. He'll typically get your gauges back within 10 days. One of the things I learned from Morris is the importance of a "correct" inner cable and what the specs for one should be. You can find that info here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm And if you doubt it, here's the service bulletin about the problem http://www.74tr6.com/images/SpeedoCableLength.pdf An out of spec cable can ruin a rebuilt speedo or tach very quickly. Paul Rego has a great write up showing everything that Morris does when calibrating a full set of gauges http://www.74tr6.com/gauges1.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Michael Porter" Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 9:05 AM To: Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] MoMa experience > terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >>> I thought I would relate a recent experience with having my TR3 temp >>> gauge >>> >> rebuilt by Mp Ma Instruments in Albuquerque.B B I sent the gauge off on >> Jan >> 18. B I got >confirmation of delivery on Jan 21. B The rebuilt gauge >> arrived >> at my home on Jan 26. B Looks great and works OK. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Dave, my experience was phased 180 out from that.B I sent it out in >> early >> January a few years ago, it took them about five months because, as they >> put >> it, their concourse customers came first, and when I finally go them >> back, >> they looked like crap.B Needles were yellow and rusted.B Over $700 >> later, I >> have guages I had to swap out for SunPro. >> >> >> >> Of all the parts and service providers I dealt with during my TR3A >> ground-up, >> I have respect and admiration for all but one.B B Maybe Mo-Ma needs a >> small >> guy's business again because of the economy, but I'll never give it to >> them. >> > > From watching this list for the ~ last fifteen years, MoMa has gone > through a few changes. Until about 2004-5, they had a great reputation > for quick service and good work for all, and after 2004-5, there were a > number of people who had tried to engage their services and found that > they were put off by MoMa because the owners said they were going to > strictly concentrate on high-end (read Jag) customers. Dave's > experience suggests that the high-end business has dropped off, and all > are welcome once again. > > > Bad experiences in the recent past might deter people, but, it seems > MoMa is now back to its usual universally good service. I wouldn't kick > `em in the ass for a temporary belief that the Hollywood elite were > going to carry them. There are too few enough good gauge rebuilders > around these days (now that Nisonger seems to be crap on wheels) that I > would want to piss on one more because it made a marketing mistake.... > > > Cheers. > > -- > > > Michael Porter > Roswell, NM > > > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking > distance.... > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Sun Jan 31 09:14:08 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 09:14:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] MoMa experience In-Reply-To: <4B658E39.7090106@dfn.com> References: <196218890.1675811264943122025.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <4B658E39.7090106@dfn.com> Message-ID: This is where I had a gauge rebuilt for the MGTD I once owned. I t looked like new when I got it back. http://www.nisonger.com/ Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Porter Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 7:06 AM To: terryrs at comcast.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] MoMa experience terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >> I thought I would relate a recent experience with having my TR3 temp gauge >> > rebuilt by Mp Ma Instruments in Albuquerque.B B I sent the gauge off on Jan > 18. B I got >confirmation of delivery on Jan 21. B The rebuilt gauge arrived > at my home on Jan 26. B Looks great and works OK. > > > > > > > Dave, my experience was phased 180 out from that.B I sent it out in early > January a few years ago, it took them about five months because, as they put > it, their concourse customers came first, and when I finally go them back, > they looked like crap.B Needles were yellow and rusted.B Over $700 later, I > have guages I had to swap out for SunPro. > > > > Of all the parts and service providers I dealt with during my TR3A ground-up, > I have respect and admiration for all but one.B B Maybe Mo-Ma needs a small > guy's business again because of the economy, but I'll never give it to them. > From watching this list for the ~ last fifteen years, MoMa has gone through a few changes. Until about 2004-5, they had a great reputation for quick service and good work for all, and after 2004-5, there were a number of people who had tried to engage their services and found that they were put off by MoMa because the owners said they were going to strictly concentrate on high-end (read Jag) customers. Dave's experience suggests that the high-end business has dropped off, and all are welcome once again. Bad experiences in the recent past might deter people, but, it seems MoMa is now back to its usual universally good service. I wouldn't kick `em in the ass for a temporary belief that the Hollywood elite were going to carry them. There are too few enough good gauge rebuilders around these days (now that Nisonger seems to be crap on wheels) that I would want to piss on one more because it made a marketing mistake.... Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From marc.nederkoorn at home.nl Sun Jan 31 11:03:46 2010 From: marc.nederkoorn at home.nl (Marc Nederkoorn) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 19:03:46 +0100 Subject: [TR] HIF SU Carb Message-ID: Hi Al, If I recall the HIF carb's on the MG are 1 3/4" which would require at least some different parts for a rebuild, compared to your 1 1/2" carbs. You can get the right rebuild kit or parts in the UK: www.burlen.co.uk The parts you want for your carbs are probably on this page: http://www.sucarb.co.uk/ExplodedImageClassic.aspx?ProductId=10504 The Burlen website is somewhat complicated, however these guys are very helpfull if you give them a call. NFI, Marc (lurker - the Netherlands) Message: 4 Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 20:41:10 -0500 From: "Al Salvatore" Subject: [TR] HIF SU Carb To: Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I pulled a set of HIF SU 1 1/2" carbs and intake out of the trunk of a spitfire thats been sitting in a parts yard since the 80's. Apparently the engine was sold out of the car and the carbs were put in the trunk. I didn't think Spits came with HIF carbs; or did they? I'am in the process of rebuilding them. I don't see them listed in the parts catalog. I'am assuming the MGB hif parts will work. ( seals, ect.) Moss lists those. Thanks Al From goh62agan at verizon.net Sun Jan 31 18:26:27 2010 From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 20:26:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] relays -to use or not to use In-Reply-To: References: <4B5FBA23.5020505@dfn.com> <7a202b5a26600052bb3187d18d5df8a6@verizon.net> <4B652AA8.2060008@dfn.com> Message-ID: <7E70FCE2-59F7-49CA-B6BE-8B59C32E1096@verizon.net> On Jan 31, 2010, at 6:58 PM, Gary O'Hagan wrote: > Michael et List, > > Thanks for a lot of good information, most of which makes sense to me. > I think I'm going to keep it simple and just start out with a wiring > kit > for the cooling fan. The JEGS kit http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Electric-Fan-Wiring-Harness-Kits/758607/10002/-1 > looks foolproof and I already have a temp > probe. The down side for me is where to put the probe. Do I put > it and the wire into the lower > radiator connecting hose at the connecting pipe or will that leak? > The other option which I'm leaning toward is the derale kit http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16759/10002/-1?CT=999 > as recommended by Randall. > It has a fin probe which keeps it simple. But what do I do with the > A/C connector? > Can I just put a kill switch there? > As always, I appreciate the help. > > Gary O > On Jan 31, 2010, at 2:00 AM, Michael Porter wrote: >> ground terminal of the relay coil and ground. >> >> With a little imagination, you could probably work out a system for >> the electric fan so that the fan runs with the ignition off until >> the fan thermostat cuts out, but won't run with the ignition switch >> off if the manual override switch is on (that might take two >> relays, though). >> >> >> >> Cheers. >> >> >> >> -- >> >> >> Michael Porter >> Roswell, NM >> >> >> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking >> distance....