From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb  1 00:14:45 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 23:14:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] relays -to use or not to use
In-Reply-To: <7E70FCE2-59F7-49CA-B6BE-8B59C32E1096@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <2C.55.05033.56F766B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

Gary O'Hagan wrote (I think):

> But what do I do with the  A/C connector?

That's where your dash override switch goes, if you want one.  Otherwise,
just tie it off and leave it alone.

Michael Porter wrote (I think):

> >> With a little imagination, you could probably work out a 
> system for  
> >> the electric fan so that the fan runs with the ignition off until  
> >> the fan thermostat cuts out, but won't run with the 
> ignition switch  
> >> off if the manual override switch is on (that might take two  
> >> relays, though).

Easy with the DeRale kit.  Connect the yellow wire to "always hot" (this
allows the fan to run anytime the sensor is above the set point); but power
the override switch from switched power (so it will only override when the
ignition is on).  Only caveat is to be sure the fan can cool the sensor, so
the fan doesn't run continuously on a hot day.

With a little more imagination, you could probably figure out how to put a
timer on the yellow wire, to limit the fan to running say 10 minutes after
the key is off.  But that seems way over the top to me, especially for a
lowly TRactor motor.

> >> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within 
> >> walking   distance....

Good advice, but far too late ... <G>

Randall

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon Feb  1 04:40:56 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 06:40:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] relays -to use or not to use
In-Reply-To: <2C.55.05033.56F766B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <2C.55.05033.56F766B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CF06502F4FCA454082AB6E292D3E47FD@AlexPC>

That's what I have done on my 59 TR3A. I have a period radio rack that is 
setup up with gauges and switches, The gauges are located in the radio 
speaker screen instead of a speaker. I have the fan wired with a relay to 
the rack. At the rack there is a period dash push/pull switch and two small 
(Radio Shack) diode lights under the switch. One red and one green. The fan 
will not run unless I pull the switch on. Then the red light comes on. When 
the fan comes on, the green light comes on. If the fan stops, the green 
light goes out. This enables me to know when the system is live and the fan 
is running/working properly. It all runs through a contemporary fuse block 
up behind the radio rack out of sight.
Alex
59 TR3A
72 TR6
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 2:14 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] relays -to use or not to use


> Gary O'Hagan wrote (I think):
>
>> But what do I do with the  A/C connector?
>
> That's where your dash override switch goes, if you want one.  Otherwise,
> just tie it off and leave it alone.
>
> Michael Porter wrote (I think):
>
>> >> With a little imagination, you could probably work out a
>> system for
>> >> the electric fan so that the fan runs with the ignition off until
>> >> the fan thermostat cuts out, but won't run with the
>> ignition switch
>> >> off if the manual override switch is on (that might take two
>> >> relays, though).
>
> Easy with the DeRale kit.  Connect the yellow wire to "always hot" (this
> allows the fan to run anytime the sensor is above the set point); but 
> power
> the override switch from switched power (so it will only override when the
> ignition is on).  Only caveat is to be sure the fan can cool the sensor, 
> so
> the fan doesn't run continuously on a hot day.
>
> With a little more imagination, you could probably figure out how to put a
> timer on the yellow wire, to limit the fan to running say 10 minutes after
> the key is off.  But that seems way over the top to me, especially for a
> lowly TRactor motor.
>
>> >> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within
>> >> walking   distance....
>
> Good advice, but far too late ... <G>
>
> Randall

From tr3abobm77 at verizon.net  Mon Feb  1 07:38:03 2010
From: tr3abobm77 at verizon.net (tr3abobm77 at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 01 Feb 2010 08:38:03 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Moss Motors
Message-ID: <1305376799.231134.1265035083570.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>


From 60TR3A at cox.net  Mon Feb  1 10:02:05 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 10:02:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Interior
Message-ID: <3C8B7475-09DD-46F2-9A34-C943EFEBC1CA@cox.net>

1) Where does the "fussy rope" like trim, that "seals out" air coming in
around the doors, go??  In the front and back of the door opening, along the
bottom of the door opening, all the way around the door opening??

2) How does it attach?  Glue? If glue, what type??

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Mon Feb  1 14:48:24 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 14:48:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A seat bottom
Message-ID: <1076B29E-1198-4C50-8BF6-12062E857CFA@cox.net>

I am recovering my seats.  I have always noticed the small spring books on the
base of seat base which I always assumed they helped hold the seat cushions in
place.

But in reading Roger Williams in "How to Restore Triumph TR2, TR3 & 3A" he
says in Figure 16-16 that "The proper bottom cover is hessian fitted after the
cover has been secured," I began wondering if I should put something there.
He then mentioned the rectangular holes in the cover for the spring clips.  It
was then that I measured the distance from the back of the seat to the clips &
then the distance from the back of the seat cushion to the 1/8th inch bars on
the bottom of the spring fixture.   They are not even close - approximately a
2 inch difference!!!!

So did some DPO screw up my seat springs?  Or are the spring clip there
because of some 1950 safety requirement?  Or are the clip there because that
is the way that carriage cushions had been made in the UK for the King's
carriages for the past 400 years?

My current thought is to get rid of the springs & put a thin piece of flexible
plastic on the bottom of each seat cushion.  Or just ignore the seat spring
clips at the expense of ticking off a bunch of dead Royal seat makers who
could put a curse on my car!!!

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Mon Feb  1 15:04:44 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 15:04:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Interior
In-Reply-To: <3C58EBA8072C48268D6F45EA432A78F6@DCH6RFC1>
References: <3C8B7475-09DD-46F2-9A34-C943EFEBC1CA@cox.net>
	<3C58EBA8072C48268D6F45EA432A78F6@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <F767D6D8-1503-4640-8305-A4C30E69E079@cox.net>

I am impressed by both the car's picture & the price!!  Congrats!

While I live in Phoenix, Arizona, and have not had the top or side curtains on
in 3 years, when the occasional need does arise (e.g., driving to work in a
rain shower in our "winter") there is a significant cold draft that blows on
my left leg.  (I know I am an AZ wimp!!)

I have the material & thought it might help.  Back when I had my first TR3A
(1965 - 1967) in Ohio, I do not remember such a breeze in the cold & damp Ohio
winter.  (I do recognize that lack of such a memory might be do to the onset
of dementia!!)   :-)

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/



On  1 Feb, 2010, at 2:28 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:

> John:
>
> Don't know what others will say, but I have restored 2 TR3s and never used
> it.  The last car (picture attached) just sold for $44,000 !
>
> Andrew
>
> P.S.  My wife and I are thinking of buying a place in the Phoenix area
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John A. Wise
> Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 12:02 PM
> To: Triumph car discussion Sports
> Subject: [TR] TR3A Interior
>
> 1) Where does the "fussy rope" like trim, that "seals out" air coming in
> around the doors, go??  In the front and back of the door opening, along
the
> bottom of the door opening, all the way around the door opening??
>
> 2) How does it attach?  Glue? If glue, what type??
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> <DSC00014.JPG>

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Feb  1 15:16:20 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 22:16:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 on BaT
In-Reply-To: <20100127234210.2357524DCF2@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <1984945005.1727231265062580014.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

http://bringatrailer.com/2010/02/01/bargain-driver-1959-triumph-tr3a/#more-

From don at napanet.net  Mon Feb  1 15:26:59 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Mon, 01 Feb 2010 14:26:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] Overdrive gearbox help
Message-ID: <20100201224108.8B6EB24DC46@mail.napanet.net>

Hello TR guys,

I recently bought a TR4A which does not have overdrive.  Any tips on 
buying an overdrive gearbox?  What is a reasonable price?  What year 
gearboxes fit; do TR6 ones work or are they different?  What other 
pieces are needed to make the swap?  And what are the things to look 
for in a gearbox as far as likely problems?  I got an email from a 
fellow who has one for sale for $1,200.  I don't know if that is a 
good price or not.
Thanks!

Don Scott
Calistoga CA
2001 Miata SE BRG
1973 MGB GT (for sale)
1966 TR4A
1962 MGA Mk II  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb  1 16:00:06 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 15:00:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] Overdrive gearbox help
In-Reply-To: <20100201224108.8B6EB24DC46@mail.napanet.net>
References: <20100201224108.8B6EB24DC46@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <8724CE2961EE4293A1F1A54971CA5453@jdnet.deere.com>

> What year gearboxes fit; do TR6 ones work or are they 
> different?

Later TR6 boxes used a J-type OD, which will involve a certain amount of
hassle to fit to a TR4A.  ISTR someone wrote they had to notch the frame
rails (as well as fabricate the rear mount) but YMMV.  But the early TR6
boxes with A-type OD should drop right in.  Be sure your locating dowels are
in place (TR6 used special locating bolts instead of dowels).  There might
possibly be an issue with the length of the 3 studs in the back of the
engine block, as the gearbox flange got thicker at some point; but ISTR that
was after the switch to J-type OD.

> What other pieces are needed to make the swap?

You'll need the angle drive for the speedo cable, and the operating switch,
relay & wiring for the OD.  Might need to cut an access panel in the side of
your transmission tunnel, if it's not already there.  The TR6 shift lever is
a little different, so you'll probably want to swap in your original lever.

> And what are the things to look for in a gearbox as far as 
> likely problems?

It's unfortunately hard to inspect them very well, without either driving it
or disassembling it.  But I'd pull the drain plug from the OD and look to
see how much crud is caught in the screens & magnets, plus pull the top
cover for a general inspection.  You can also try sliding the synchro rings
against their mating gear and check the clearance, but again it's hard to do
this accurately without disassembling further.  Can't seem to find my notes
on a minimum clearance, but maybe someone else knows.

> I got an email from a fellow who has one 
> for sale for $1,200.  I don't know if that is a good price or not.

Depends on how much of a guarantee it comes with, IMO.  If it's guaranteed
good, that's a great price.  But if it's strictly "cash & carry", I'd be
leery.  It's easy to drop over $1000 on repair parts to overhaul one; and
you can get a fully overhauled, guaranteed box from Quantum Mechanics for
$2500 or so.

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb  1 16:05:10 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 15:05:10 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A Interior
In-Reply-To: <F767D6D8-1503-4640-8305-A4C30E69E079@cox.net>
References: <3C8B7475-09DD-46F2-9A34-C943EFEBC1CA@cox.net><3C58EBA8072C48268D6F45EA432A78F6@DCH6RFC1>
	<F767D6D8-1503-4640-8305-A4C30E69E079@cox.net>
Message-ID: <D5A4134E824941669C7FFE464A3A0EE7@jdnet.deere.com>

> there is a significant cold draft that blows on my 
> left leg.  

You might want to check the rubber seals inside the left front fender
(mounted on a metal plate that bolts to the bulkhead where it sticks out).
I get a lot more wind through there, than around the door.  The fender acts
like an air scoop, and funnels the air through the gap at the top of the
kick panel, where it doesn't meet the scuttle.

-- Randall  

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb  1 17:41:28 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 18:41:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 on BaT
In-Reply-To: <1984945005.1727231265062580014.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1984945005.1727231265062580014.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E63DFDF558D048738548167EED0C2EC8@ranteer.local>

anyone interested?  I'm in dallas and can go look at it.  if I had the cash 
I'd grab it.

--------------------------------------------------
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 4:16 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 on BaT

> http://bringatrailer.com/2010/02/01/bargain-driver-1959-triumph-tr3a/#more-

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Feb  1 18:37:29 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 18:37:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Interior/Fuzzy Rope
In-Reply-To: <3C8B7475-09DD-46F2-9A34-C943EFEBC1CA@cox.net>
References: <3C8B7475-09DD-46F2-9A34-C943EFEBC1CA@cox.net>
Message-ID: <61841D61E0274B9194BC95FC93487EE0@bboffice>

For my car, and I think it is correct, I will put it on the vertical posts A
& B(?) at the front and back of the door, there is a rubber seal strip for
the bottom.  At the front it tucks under the side panel/carpet, and at the
rear there is a bit of wood or some fibrous substance that you can tack into
to secure it until you attach the rear panel that goes over the wheel well.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John A. Wise
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 10:02 AM
To: Triumph car discussion Sports
Subject: [TR] TR3A Interior

1) Where does the "fussy rope" like trim, that "seals out" air coming in
around the doors, go??  In the front and back of the door opening, along the
bottom of the door opening, all the way around the door opening??

2) How does it attach?  Glue? If glue, what type??

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
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http://www.team.net/archive

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Mon Feb  1 20:48:24 2010
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Mon, 01 Feb 2010 22:48:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] relays -to use or not to use
In-Reply-To: <2C.55.05033.56F766B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <2C.55.05033.56F766B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <5CBB6E67-0D00-4B62-AC84-E9C01B9581A2@verizon.net>

> With a little more imagination, you could probably figure out how to  
> put a
> timer on the yellow wire, to limit the fan to running say 10 minutes  
> after
> the key is off.  But that seems way over the top to me, especially  
> for a
> lowly TRactor motor.
>
>>>> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within
>>>> walking   distance....
>
> Good advice, but far too late ... <G>
>
> Randall
>

    OK, I think I got all that. So when the fan comes on
     will it fan the flames of my electrical system, or blow them out?  
<G>

    Gart O
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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>
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Feb  2 15:50:08 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 22:50:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Interior
In-Reply-To: <D5A4134E824941669C7FFE464A3A0EE7@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <349942518.2852761265151008741.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>> there is a significant cold draft that blows on my
>> left leg. B 

>You might want to check the rubber seals inside the left front fender
>(mounted on a metal plate that bolts to the bulkhead where it sticks out).
>I get a lot more wind through there, than around the door. B The fender acts
>like an air scoop, and funnels the air through the gap at the top of the
>kick panel, where it doesn't meet the scuttle.

May I shiver--ehr, I mean, second--Randall's suggestion.B  I drove through
several "wicked cold" New Hampshire fall mornings without the bulkhead plates
Randall refers too.B  I not only felt the cold, but wound up with sand all
over my suit pants.B  Last winter when the List (Randall) suggested what was
wrong, I installed them, and voila, no more sand.B  Still plenty of cold, but
not from the draft.B 



Actually, John, I think it was you who gave the great description of the
aftermarket heater install, which is in the plans for early spring.B  Thanks
for that!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From L1J1S at aol.com  Tue Feb  2 17:52:09 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 19:52:09 EST
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  TR3A Interior
Message-ID: <38fb.60264d3d.389a22b9@aol.com>

with i installed the rubber gaskets on my tr3, i reinforced them by  
sealing the entire outer rim of the rubbers with dum-dum. larry chwartz 
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>> there is a significant cold draft that blows on my
>> left leg. B 

>You might want to check the rubber seals inside the left front fender
>(mounted on a metal plate that bolts to the bulkhead where it sticks out).
>I get a lot more wind through there, than around the door. B The fender acts
>like an air scoop, and funnels the air through the gap at the top of the
>kick panel, where it doesn't meet the scuttle.

May I shiver--ehr, I mean, second--Randall's suggestion.B  I drove through
several "wicked cold" New Hampshire fall mornings without the bulkhead plates
Randall refers too.B  I not only felt the cold, but wound up with sand all
over my suit pants.B  Last winter when the List (Randall) suggested what was
wrong, I installed them, and voila, no more sand.B  Still plenty of cold, but
not from the draft.B 



Actually, John, I think it was you who gave the great description of the
aftermarket heater install, which is in the plans for early spring.B  Thanks
for that!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire
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From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed Feb  3 08:19:15 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 07:19:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
References: <mailman.3.1265137201.9393.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000601caa4e4$3fc5d930$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com>

Time includes the 1970 Stag and the 1975 TR7.
What do they know anyway????
Regards,
Bob




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From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Feb  3 07:22:56 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 14:22:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <000601caa4e4$3fc5d930$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <782942482.2470621265206976712.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net> wrote:

> From: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2010 9:19:15 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
>
> Time includes the 1970 Stag and the 1975 TR7.
> What do they know anyway????
> Regards,
> Bob

They know that the engines were trouble when the cars were new.  Bad castings with inadequate cooling.  Production bean-counters ordering cheap aluminum.  Things that can make an engine less reliable than the engineers envisioned and infuriate car owners.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Feb  3 08:18:06 2010
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:18:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <782942482.2470621265206976712.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <782942482.2470621265206976712.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <24BF3E9948F0485FBA14A0B8CE10D082@artvac412870f0>

Hi Bob,
Yes, You're correct, what do they know? I would however be most concerned 
with the Saturn listing in your signature.
Very much a case of what doesn't belong in that list of mostly acceptable 
examples of Automobiles.

Yes, we know the follow up in such cases. It's probably "It's the best new 
Car I ever bought" "Love It!" "Most Dependable"
Trust me , drop it from your signature, and You'll be looked upon as a Car 
Guy again!
Cheers,
Wayne
64 TR4
75 TR6 (Daily Driver again soon)


--------------------------------------------------
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:22 AM
To: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?

> ----- "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net> wrote:
>
>> From: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2010 9:19:15 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
>> Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
>>
>> Time includes the 1970 Stag and the 1975 TR7.
>> What do they know anyway????
>> Regards,
>> Bob
>
> They know that the engines were trouble when the cars were new.  Bad 
> castings with inadequate cooling.  Production bean-counters ordering cheap 
> aluminum.  Things that can make an engine less reliable than the engineers 
> envisioned and infuriate car owners.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
> 1979 Caterham 7
> 1994 Miata C-package
> 2004 Suburban 8.1
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
> http://www.mnautox.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as wayne at motorcarriage.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  3 08:49:31 2010
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 07:49:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <000601caa4e4$3fc5d930$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <mailman.3.1265137201.9393.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<000601caa4e4$3fc5d930$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <575432.84338.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jeremy can explain

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGJty_Rdp1U



----- Original Message ----
From: Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, February 3, 2010 9:19:15 AM
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?

Time includes the 1970 Stag and the 1975 TR7.
What do they know anyway????
Regards,
Bob




E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447)
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From MARELM at aol.com  Wed Feb  3 09:45:14 2010
From: MARELM at aol.com (MARELM at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 11:45:14 EST
Subject: [TR] TR 6 leaning to driver side
Message-ID: <ab44.4ec8e10b.389b021a@aol.com>

New TR 6 owner. Car is 35 k miles Paint is stripped no major body repair  
seen.
Both rear springs have been replaced and tube shocks installed. ONLY driver 
 front spring has been replaced.
 
Car leans to Driver side 1/2" to 3/4" with or without load. 
Car was driven 400 miles before disassembly with no handling problems  
noted.
 
Suggestions for correction will be appreciated.

From tr6parts at charter.net  Wed Feb  3 10:59:48 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 12:59:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 6 leaning to driver side
References: <ab44.4ec8e10b.389b021a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B63D790F308F46E28C05164A94EB5BEB@Alan>

First off,  you should never replace just one spring.
I would replace both front springs and then go from there.
There have been many reports of the cars being low on left side.
Once you have two matching springs, you may need a spacer to level off.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MARELM at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 11:45 AM
Subject: [TR] TR 6 leaning to driver side


> New TR 6 owner. Car is 35 k miles Paint is stripped no major body repair
> seen.
> Both rear springs have been replaced and tube shocks installed. ONLY 
> driver
> front spring has been replaced.
>
> Car leans to Driver side 1/2" to 3/4" with or without load.
> Car was driven 400 miles before disassembly with no handling problems
> noted.
>
> Suggestions for correction will be appreciated.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Wed Feb  3 11:06:22 2010
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 13:06:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 6 leaning to driver side
In-Reply-To: <ab44.4ec8e10b.389b021a@aol.com>
References: <ab44.4ec8e10b.389b021a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F39EA976AB0740A683EF2D9414B9A918@marcydesk>

You've pretty much answered the question your self. If three springs were 
changed the remaining spring is not compatable.  Spring height & lb rating 
determine ride height. Springs should be replaced in complete matching sets. 
The reason for this is there are several types of springs available, 
competition, upgraded or standard replacement. You may have issues if you 
install different sets IE "Competition" in rear with "uprated in front".
Also check to make sure the springs are seated properly, there are no shims 
under the springs and the most extreme & probably not an issue, chassis 
twist from an accident or fatigue.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MARELM at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 11:45 AM
Subject: [TR] TR 6 leaning to driver side


> New TR 6 owner. Car is 35 k miles Paint is stripped no major body repair
> seen.
> Both rear springs have been replaced and tube shocks installed. ONLY 
> driver
> front spring has been replaced.
>
> Car leans to Driver side 1/2" to 3/4" with or without load.
> Car was driven 400 miles before disassembly with no handling problems
> noted.
>
> Suggestions for correction will be appreciated.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as ms6453 at optonline.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive



_______

Mitch Seff
Brite Do-it best Hardware
Locksmiths-Industrial supply
112-15 Jamaica Ave
718-849-8121  Fax 718-849-8567
www.brite.doitbest.com
brithard at optonline.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Feb  3 11:15:10 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 18:15:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <24BF3E9948F0485FBA14A0B8CE10D082@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <2003181972.2585991265220910874.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

"Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com> wrote:

> From: "Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
> To: pethier at comcast.net, "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2010 9:18:06 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
>
> Hi Bob,
> Yes, You're correct, what do they know? I would however be most
> concerned 
> with the Saturn listing in your signature.
> Very much a case of what doesn't belong in that list of mostly
> acceptable 
> examples of Automobiles.
> 
> Yes, we know the follow up in such cases. It's probably "It's the best
> new 
> Car I ever bought" "Love It!" "Most Dependable"
> Trust me , drop it from your signature, and You'll be looked upon as a
> Car 
> Guy again!
> Cheers,
> Wayne
> 64 TR4
> 75 TR6 (Daily Driver again soon)

Bob ain't the guy with the Saturn in his sig.  I am.

The Saturn has a torquey 2.4 variable-valve twink with a nice smooth 5-speed manual, not the vanilla 2.2 and slushbox. It also has a plastic body that won't disolve in the winter here in the salt capital of the world.  I like it just fine, and really couldn't care less if you don't.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  3 11:30:13 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:30:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR 6 leaning to driver side
In-Reply-To: <ab44.4ec8e10b.389b021a@aol.com>
References: <ab44.4ec8e10b.389b021a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <870158.32837.qm@web113407.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

with all that work done, it cant be your wallet causing it to lean!
Frank
________________________________
From: "MARELM at aol.com" <MARELM at aol.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, February 3, 2010 8:45:14 AM
Subject: [TR]
TR 6 leaning to driver side

New TR 6 owner. Car is 35 k miles Paint is
stripped no major body repair  
seen.
Both rear springs have been replaced and
tube shocks installed. ONLY driver 
front spring has been replaced.

Car leans
to Driver side 1/2" to 3/4" with or without load. 
Car was driven 400 miles
before disassembly with no handling problems  
noted.

Suggestions for
correction will be appreciated.
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are
subscribed as yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb  3 11:44:48 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:44:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR 6 leaning to driver side
In-Reply-To: <ab44.4ec8e10b.389b021a@aol.com>
References: <ab44.4ec8e10b.389b021a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <548DF6D77F264528A01DAE97A3A29DB9@jdnet.deere.com>

> Car leans to Driver side 1/2" to 3/4" with or without load. 

How is the camber?  ISTR the TR6 has camber adjustments at all 4 wheels.

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb  3 11:51:00 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:51:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <000601caa4e4$3fc5d930$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <mailman.3.1265137201.9393.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<000601caa4e4$3fc5d930$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <CB0818DD9E374998A7D26813E9E5691E@jdnet.deere.com>

> Time includes the 1970 Stag and the 1975 TR7.
> What do they know anyway????

As the owner of two early Stags, both broken, I'd have to say they were
right on the money.

-- Randall
58 TR3A TS39781LO :(now totaled :(
56 TR3  TS13571L next project
71 Stag LE1473L waiting for engine rebuild
71 Stag LE2014LBW daily driver wanna-be 

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Feb  3 11:57:39 2010
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 13:57:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <2003181972.2585991265220910874.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2003181972.2585991265220910874.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <029AAE8FC82742F5827073ED5CBACDAF@artvac412870f0>

Sorry Phil, for calling You Bob that is..
No reason for You to Care less. You have 2-3 other great Cars to lower your 
polymer footprint.
Nothing personal, that was intended as a "Tongue in Cheek comment" I've 
owned worse cars..   hmmm....,  Maybe I haven't.
I'm just grateful GM killed them instead of SAAB though. Penske didn't want 
them if Renault wouldn't make them. I'm also glad You like the plastic body,
as they'll be in our landfills for centuries to come for others to relish. 
And I'm not even a Tree Hugging Greenie,
and I don't bring my own Shopping Bags into the Supermarket either.
Variable valve Timed 2.4 ha. My old Alfa had variable valve timing. They
must of came out with the vanilla (whatever that is) 2.2 version to give You 
2.4 guy's something to look down on. :>)
I just thought the Saturn should be on the Top 50 Worst list instead of your 
Stag. Congrats on buying Uncle Jack by the way!
Cheers,
Wayne (former multiple fiberglass body car owner, Lotus's)

--------------------------------------------------
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 1:15 PM
To: "Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?

> "Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com> wrote:
>
>> From: "Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
>> To: pethier at comcast.net, "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2010 9:18:06 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
>> Subject: Re: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
>>
>> Hi Bob,
>> Yes, You're correct, what do they know? I would however be most
>> concerned
>> with the Saturn listing in your signature.
>> Very much a case of what doesn't belong in that list of mostly
>> acceptable
>> examples of Automobiles.
>>
>> Yes, we know the follow up in such cases. It's probably "It's the best
>> new
>> Car I ever bought" "Love It!" "Most Dependable"
>> Trust me , drop it from your signature, and You'll be looked upon as a
>> Car
>> Guy again!
>> Cheers,
>> Wayne
>> 64 TR4
>> 75 TR6 (Daily Driver again soon)
>
> Bob ain't the guy with the Saturn in his sig.  I am.
>
> The Saturn has a torquey 2.4 variable-valve twink with a nice smooth 
> 5-speed manual, not the vanilla 2.2 and slushbox. It also has a plastic 
> body that won't disolve in the winter here in the salt capital of the 
> world.  I like it just fine, and really couldn't care less if you don't.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
> 1979 Caterham 7
> 1994 Miata C-package
> 2004 Suburban 8.1
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
> http://www.mnautox.com 

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Wed Feb  3 12:25:01 2010
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 14:25:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 6 leaning to driver side
In-Reply-To: <ab44.4ec8e10b.389b021a@aol.com>
References: <ab44.4ec8e10b.389b021a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004001caa506$95188780$bf499680$@net>

Like Al and Mitch SAID 

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MARELM at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 11:45 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR 6 leaning to driver side

New TR 6 owner. Car is 35 k miles Paint is stripped no major body repair  
seen.
Both rear springs have been replaced and tube shocks installed. ONLY driver 
 front spring has been replaced.
 
Car leans to Driver side 1/2" to 3/4" with or without load. 
Car was driven 400 miles before disassembly with no handling problems  
noted.
 
Suggestions for correction will be appreciated.
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  3 12:28:49 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 11:28:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] pressure sandblaster tips?
Message-ID: <472071.66040.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Cleaning up tr-3 fenders:  I purchased a harbor freight pressure blaster and within half hour ruined the nozzle last summer (ball valve just wore out by sand going through it).  I wasn't really happy with the blaster as it seemed to work intermittedly.  It would  blow very well but then seem to get plugged or almost plugged at times.  I've since replaced the valve with a deadmans valve but when first using it I got sand blowing out with minimal pressure.  Not nearly enough pressure to be effective.  I took everything apart and all lines were clear except for the sand hose from the bottom of the blaster to the nozzle which was full of sand. 
I have a 4 hp compressor with 25 gallon tank.  It does 9 scfm at 40lbs and 7 at 90.  I know its somewhat small for pressure blasting but think it should do better than that as it does handle my cabinet blaster ok.  The pressure blaster is harbor freight 40lbs.
My understanding/experience with pressure blasters is minimal.  My main question is with the sand hose from blaster to nozzle.  It does have a valve right under the blaster which can control sand flow.  Should this be wide open or partially open?  I'm thinking if its wide open then too much sand is filling the hose resulting in plugging or partially plugging the hose.  But what will it help to partially close the sand valve?................. because when I shut off the nozzle to re-arrange the fender or do another task................. won't the sand continue running into the hose anyway.........potentially plugging.
Just curious if anyone else has had this problem or if anyone else has more extensive experience with pressure blasting.
I'm basically cleaning up the edges/corners of fenders and might just resort to hand sanding and POR-15.LOL

this might be borderline british so sorry!
gary n.

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  3 12:33:04 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 11:33:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tr-6 leaning to drivers side
Message-ID: <115918.57241.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I'd agree that springs should be changed in sets but also wonder if that amount of difference between sides is worrisome.  Seems 3/4" wouldn't be much..............(but thats just me lol)....maybe also check tire pressure.

gary n

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb  3 13:08:52 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 12:08:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <029AAE8FC82742F5827073ED5CBACDAF@artvac412870f0>
References: <2003181972.2585991265220910874.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<029AAE8FC82742F5827073ED5CBACDAF@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <DF6AE162303240D5BF291E66DCCB885E@jdnet.deere.com>

> I'm just grateful GM killed them instead of SAAB though. 

Did SAAB escape the ax, then?  I thought the end had been announced, after
the Swedes declined to buy it back.

-- Randall  

From auprichard at comcast.net  Wed Feb  3 14:21:30 2010
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 16:21:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] pressure sandblaster tips?
In-Reply-To: <472071.66040.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <472071.66040.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <63240B8579404D76876368597BDB7FE2@DCH6RFC1>

Gary:

I recently used one of these blasters and the only way I could use it was to
operate the system using the valve under the blaster:  if you close the
deadman's valve the system will clog.  I asked a local body shop and they
confirmed my findings.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 2:29 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] pressure sandblaster tips?

Cleaning up tr-3 fenders:  I purchased a harbor freight pressure blaster and
within half hour ruined the nozzle last summer (ball valve just wore out by
sand going through it).  I wasn't really happy with the blaster as it seemed
to work intermittedly.  It would  blow very well but then seem to get
plugged or almost plugged at times.  I've since replaced the valve with a
deadmans valve but when first using it I got sand blowing out with minimal
pressure.  Not nearly enough pressure to be effective.  I took everything
apart and all lines were clear except for the sand hose from the bottom of
the blaster to the nozzle which was full of sand. 
I have a 4 hp compressor with 25 gallon tank.  It does 9 scfm at 40lbs and 7
at 90.  I know its somewhat small for pressure blasting but think it should
do better than that as it does handle my cabinet blaster ok.  The pressure
blaster is harbor freight 40lbs.
My understanding/experience with pressure blasters is minimal.  My main
question is with the sand hose from blaster to nozzle.  It does have a valve
right under the blaster which can control sand flow.  Should this be wide
open or partially open?  I'm thinking if its wide open then too much sand is
filling the hose resulting in plugging or partially plugging the hose.  But
what will it help to partially close the sand valve?.................
because when I shut off the nozzle to re-arrange the fender or do another
task................. won't the sand continue running into the hose
anyway.........potentially plugging.
Just curious if anyone else has had this problem or if anyone else has more
extensive experience with pressure blasting.
I'm basically cleaning up the edges/corners of fenders and might just resort
to hand sanding and POR-15.LOL

this might be borderline british so sorry!
gary n.
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From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Feb  3 14:30:41 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 14:30:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <DF6AE162303240D5BF291E66DCCB885E@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <2003181972.2585991265220910874.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><029AAE8FC82742F5827073ED5CBACDAF@artvac412870f0>
	<DF6AE162303240D5BF291E66DCCB885E@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <744EE3AA5C5C42248E1ED351BBAB9ED2@joepentiumnew>

It's being bought by Spyker.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 1:09 PM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?

> I'm just grateful GM killed them instead of SAAB though. 

Did SAAB escape the ax, then?  I thought the end had been announced, after
the Swedes declined to buy it back.

-- Randall  
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From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Feb  3 14:39:30 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 21:39:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <DF6AE162303240D5BF291E66DCCB885E@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <48079636.2695821265233170198.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I'm just grateful GM killed them instead of SAAB though. 
> 
> Did SAAB escape the ax, then?  I thought the end had been announced,
> after
> the Swedes declined to buy it back.

Reportedly, Spyker is buying SAAB.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Wed Feb  3 14:48:16 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 16:48:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <DF6AE162303240D5BF291E66DCCB885E@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <20100203214827.AF7AC18764B@autox.team.net>

The last I heard was GM agreed to let Spyker, a manufacturer of high-end
sporty cars in Holland, buy SAAB in what seems a rather convoluted deal.  It
shall be interesting to see what happens because Spyker, in its six years of
existence, has not turned a profit. 

BobW
Montgomeryville, Pa.
1974 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Wednesday, 03 February, 2010 3:09 PM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?

> I'm just grateful GM killed them instead of SAAB though. 

Did SAAB escape the ax, then?  I thought the end had been announced, after
the Swedes declined to buy it back.

-- Randall  
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From rtriplett25 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  3 14:54:09 2010
From: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com (richard triplett)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 13:54:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Car bashing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1265223601.26370.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <532513.80832.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Sometimes reliabilty and longevity trumps sleekness and adrenaline. Let's just leave it at that, OK? Any further bantering should be done off list.

Richard
1960 TR3A TS75434L
oh, and a 2001 Ford Windstar

> 
> Sorry Phil, for calling You Bob that is..
> No reason for You to Care less. You have 2-3 other great
> Cars to lower your 
> polymer footprint.
> Nothing personal, th

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Feb  3 15:10:46 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Wed,  3 Feb 2010 17:10:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
Message-ID: <20100203171046.AIG09780@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Randall asked:
> Did SAAB escape the ax, then?

It was announced yesterday or the day before that they'd closed a deal to sell it ot Spyker.
--
Jim Muller

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Feb  3 15:30:55 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 22:30:55 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <DF6AE162303240D5BF291E66DCCB885E@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <2003181972.2585991265220910874.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<029AAE8FC82742F5827073ED5CBACDAF@artvac412870f0>
	<DF6AE162303240D5BF291E66DCCB885E@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <553560.28351.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Bought by Spyker in Holland

Jonmac




________________________________
From:
Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent:
Wed, 3 February, 2010 20:08:52
Subject: Re: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?

>
I'm just grateful GM killed them instead of SAAB though. 

Did SAAB escape the
ax, then?  I thought the end had been announced, after
the Swedes declined to
buy it back.

-- Randall  
Suggested annual donation 
$11.47


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From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Feb  3 15:45:08 2010
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 17:45:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw:  50 Worst cars of all time?
Message-ID: <905F8C83879F4D49B08A1F9789E683A0@artvac412870f0>

 Hi Randall,
    Yes, SAAB was saved by GM finally selling to Spyker Autos, a Dutch
 Sports Car Maker.
 Didn't go smoothly though, US Government wouldn't let GM sell it to them
 until
 they got rid of an investor with alleged ties to the Russian Mob.

 Wayne

 --------------------------------------------------
 From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
 Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 3:08 PM
 To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
 Subject: Re: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?

>> I'm just grateful GM killed them instead of SAAB though.
>
> Did SAAB escape the ax, then?  I thought the end had been announced, after
> the Swedes declined to buy it back.
>
> -- Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Feb  3 16:17:16 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 18:17:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] pressure sandblaster tips?
In-Reply-To: <472071.66040.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <472071.66040.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201002031817.17243.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 03 February 2010 02:28:49 pm Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Cleaning up tr-3 fenders:  I purchased a harbor freight pressure blaster
>  and within half hour ruined the nozzle last summer (ball valve just wore
>  out by sand going through it).  I wasn't really happy with the blaster as
>  it seemed to work intermittedly.  It would  blow very well but then seem
>  to get plugged or almost plugged at times.  

snip,

Gary,

For items larger than my cabinet, I got a Sears blaster for around 50$ before 
I started my TR4 restoration about 6 years ago.

It is gravity fed and the gun works like a siphon.

I use black beauty media only and it works great.

I did replace the media hose because it was cheap rubber and kept cracking.

I got some neoprene hose from Lowes and it never clogs up.

I have blasted a TR4 frame, body tub + all body panels and last summer did the 
same on my current TR6 project.

The nozzles are ceramic and last quite awhile. I think I have used 3 to 4 over 
the years.

Here is a link: 
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916706000P?keyword=sand+blaster

I use a single stage 220V 60 gal 7HP upright compressor.

Bob

From L1J1S at aol.com  Wed Feb  3 16:20:45 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 18:20:45 EST
Subject: [TR] [Tr]-50 worst cars of all times
Message-ID: <18157.38171331.389b5ecd@aol.com>

list, where can i get a copy of this list? i missed this one.  larry  
schwartz

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Feb  3 16:21:41 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 23:21:41 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <782942482.2470621265206976712.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <782942482.2470621265206976712.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <79243.59844.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Here we go. Sweeping statements that aren't factual. Blame the journalists who
got it wrong - as usual

>They know (knew?) that the engines were trouble when
the cars were new.  

Myth. There was nothing inherently wrong with the design
and the prototype cars which all covered substantial mileages under Gordon
Birtwhistle's testing and proving were entirely trouble-free. No cooling
issues, no head warpage, no blown head gaskets, no radiator issues. Gearboxes,
yes! 

>Bad castings with inadequate cooling.  

Not a bad casting engineering
wise but an absolute s*d to fully extract the casting core, so odd bits
remained inside and blocked water passages. 

>Production bean-counters
ordering cheap aluminum. 

Myth. *Production* had no input on supplier
sourcing. A new Purchasing Manager seconded from somewhere in the depths of
BMC (fired soon afterwards for his 'judgements') was the root cause for:
1.
Specifying a cheaper (and mechanically inferior) water pump -
immediately deemed unsuitable by Engineering
2. Specifying a cheaper radiator
with less capacity  - immediately deemed unsuitable by Engineering
3.
Specifying an aluminium alloy spec that wasn't actually cheaper but
inappropriate to purpose  - immediately deemed unsuitable by Engineering

So
why didn't they make the changes earlier? Contract cancellation costs with
suppliers concerned. Another reason for the BMC man getting kicked out. Its a
long story.

There is nothing inherently wrong with the Stag engine or its
design for the time. Certainly, the porting on all eight valve heads for Stag,
TR7 and 1850 Dolomite could have been a lot better than it was and that's one
of the reasons why SAAB did a fairly major revamp of the head when it started
using the Slant 4. The breathing on the 1850 above 4500rpm was appalling.
Jonmac

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  3 16:24:11 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 15:24:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <20100203214827.AF7AC18764B@autox.team.net>
References: <20100203214827.AF7AC18764B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <732058.30005.qm@web113414.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I'm not sure Spyker ever scored a point as an F1 team either.
Frank
To: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>; Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, February 3, 2010 1:48:16 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all
time?

The last I heard was GM agreed to let Spyker, a manufacturer of
high-end
sporty cars in Holland, buy SAAB in what seems a rather convoluted
deal.  It
shall be interesting to see what happens because Spyker, in its six
years of
existence, has not turned a profit. 

BobW
Montgomeryville, Pa.
1974
TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Wednesday,
03 February, 2010 3:09 PM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] 50 Worst cars
of all time?

> I'm just grateful GM killed them instead of SAAB though. 

Did
SAAB escape the ax, then?  I thought the end had been announced, after
the
Swedes declined to buy it back.

-- Randall  
Suggested annual donation 
$11.47


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From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Feb  3 16:27:35 2010
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 18:27:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Car bashing (was 50 Worst Cars of all Time) almost the same
In-Reply-To: <532513.80832.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <532513.80832.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7F1EEBC9F495427099A196C418368B46@artvac412870f0>

I'm sorry if you're a new moderator I wasn't familiar with. Didn't seem off 
topic since it was about
the "50 Worst Cars of all Time"
Don't worry, I don't know what Mini-Vans were listed. We'll leave it at 
that, we don't want a discussion about Sleek Cars on a Sports Car list.
Wayne
64 TR4
75 TR6
74 AMC Pacer(Just kidding, can I say anything bad about one of those?) :>)

--------------------------------------------------
From: "richard triplett" <rtriplett25 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 4:54 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Car bashing

> Sometimes reliabilty and longevity trumps sleekness and adrenaline. Let's 
> just leave it at that, OK? Any further bantering should be done off list.
>
> Richard
> 1960 TR3A TS75434L
> oh, and a 2001 Ford Windstar
>
>>
>> Sorry Phil, for calling You Bob that is..
>> No reason for You to Care less. You have 2-3 other great
>> Cars to lower your
>> polymer footprint.
>> Nothing personal, th
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as wayne at motorcarriage.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
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>
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From chandler.rick at comcast.net  Wed Feb  3 17:58:46 2010
From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 16:58:46 -0800
Subject: [TR]  pressure sandblaster tips?
Message-ID: <5F1AF7BEA98D4D12AC98DD10104019BE@ricksoffice>

Gary,

 

You're way underpowered to be attempting to blast frame and panel parts.
You'll need a compressor closer to 10 hp with 12-15 scfm at 90psi. The unit you
have could drive a small blast cabinet, but a piece of 100 sq cm surface
area will take several minutes (you'll have to stop and wait while the
compressor recharges, then shoot again; its quite frustrating). A big
compressor is a valuable tool, but these things are really heavy, loud,
consume a lot of space and power, and are generally not mobile. A pleasant
and dust-free alternative is to find a local media blaster guy for your big
stuff, and stick to doing small pieces in a cabinet.

 

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1972 Norton Commando 750 Combat

1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb  3 17:59:07 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 16:59:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] 50 Worst cars of all time?
In-Reply-To: <79243.59844.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <782942482.2470621265206976712.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<79243.59844.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <84DCF7D6BEEB4925BA38237348D48856@jdnet.deere.com>

> There is nothing inherently wrong with the Stag engine or its 
> design for the time. 

I'm sorry, John, but I have to respectfully disagree.  The location of the
water pump, for example, was simply inexcusable.  Clamping the cylinder head
with not only a mixture of lengths of fasteners (thereby ensuring unequal
stress during thermal cycles and encouraging warpage), but putting them at
angles to each other was another brain-dead decision.  Running the camshafts
directly in the head (no bearing inserts) was a mistake that should have
been learned 20 years earlier (when inserts were added to the Vanguard
engine).

The tight clearance around the head studs (which absolutely invites having
the steel studs locked into the alloy heads by corrosion) is another
mistake; not to mention the almost complete lack of allowances for rework.

And mind you, this was some 5 years after GM's alloy V8 design, which has
been so immensely successful that production of them only recently stopped,
some 40 years after the design was completed.

The Stag motor (and it's kindred) I believe also stand out as the only
"interference" design that Triumph produced, which seems particularly silly
when the camshafts are driven with bicycle chain!  My 90cc Yamaha motorcycle
literally had a stronger drive chain than the Stag's timing chain (and much
easier to both check and replace).

Honestly, my take is that the engineers who produced the Stag design were so
disgusted at being told to work with those ### Swedes that they deliberately
sabotaged it.

By comparison, the gearbox was a work of art! <G>

-- Randall  

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Feb  3 22:04:12 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 00:04:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] SAAB
Message-ID: <4B6A0EFC.17079.225801E8@localhost>

Hey, everybody!  I read that Spyker bought SAAB.

Just thought you'd like to know.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Feb  3 22:39:02 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 22:39:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] pressure sandblaster tips?
In-Reply-To: <201002031817.17243.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <472071.66040.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<201002031817.17243.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <D63262BA014D48B6A3B3694C3E66DC59@bboffice>

Gary,
I agree with Bob, I too have the inexpensive Sears unit and it works great
but I have a 7hp compressor 220v that can deliver about 12cfm at 90psi.  While
the blaster is supposed to be able to pull the sand from the hopper, I find
it is much more efficient if I keep the hopper elevated above my work... Not
always easy.

You mentioned the line plugging, my cabinet occasionally does this(I use
glass beads in the cabinet) and I have found that simply by placing my
gloved hand tightly over the nozzle it causes the back-pressure to clear the
line and all is well.

Hope this helps,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 4:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] pressure sandblaster tips?

On Wednesday 03 February 2010 02:28:49 pm Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Cleaning up tr-3 fenders:  I purchased a harbor freight pressure 
> blaster  and within half hour ruined the nozzle last summer (ball 
> valve just wore  out by sand going through it).  I wasn't really happy 
> with the blaster as  it seemed to work intermittedly.  It would  blow 
> very well but then seem  to get plugged or almost plugged at times.

snip,

Gary,

For items larger than my cabinet, I got a Sears blaster for around 50$
before I started my TR4 restoration about 6 years ago.

It is gravity fed and the gun works like a siphon.

I use black beauty media only and it works great.

I did replace the media hose because it was cheap rubber and kept cracking.

I got some neoprene hose from Lowes and it never clogs up.

I have blasted a TR4 frame, body tub + all body panels and last summer did
the same on my current TR6 project.

The nozzles are ceramic and last quite awhile. I think I have used 3 to 4
over the years.

Here is a link: 
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916706000P?keyword=sand+blaster

I use a single stage 220V 60 gal 7HP upright compressor.

Bob
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Feb  3 22:59:06 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 22:59:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] SAAB
In-Reply-To: <4B6A0EFC.17079.225801E8@localhost>
References: <4B6A0EFC.17079.225801E8@localhost>
Message-ID: <D72F5A25FCCA4291BE456A99CDBFB512@bboffice>

Sooo... Does that get us some of our 60% investment in GM back into the US
treasury?
BB 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 10:04 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] SAAB

Hey, everybody!  I read that Spyker bought SAAB.

Just thought you'd like to know.


--
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Feb  4 05:48:39 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 07:48:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] SAAB
In-Reply-To: <D72F5A25FCCA4291BE456A99CDBFB512@bboffice>
References: <4B6A0EFC.17079.225801E8@localhost>
Message-ID: <4B6A7BD7.19764.24013960@localhost>

On 3 Feb 2010 at 22:59, wbeech at flash.net wrote:

> Sooo... Does that get us some of our 60% investment in GM back
> into the US treasury?

Don't know.  I was being silly.  The sheer quantity of replies, 
including my own, to Randall's SAAB query was impressive.  So I 
figured in case anyone hadn't seen it it should be mentioned again.

Hey, did anybody miss the announcement that...oh, nevermind.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From auprichard at comcast.net  Thu Feb  4 05:48:34 2010
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 07:48:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] pressure sandblaster tips?
In-Reply-To: <201002031817.17243.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <472071.66040.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<201002031817.17243.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <AFB2457CACCA45FB840D648F85E16C1E@DCH6RFC1>

Having used both (Sears and Harbor Freight) the difference is marked:  the
Sears one uses pressurized air to "carry" the media with it, while the
Harbor Freight one has both air and media under pressure.  The latter was
much more effective in those "difficult to get at" places.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 6:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] pressure sandblaster tips?

On Wednesday 03 February 2010 02:28:49 pm Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Cleaning up tr-3 fenders:  I purchased a harbor freight pressure blaster
>  and within half hour ruined the nozzle last summer (ball valve just wore
>  out by sand going through it).  I wasn't really happy with the blaster as
>  it seemed to work intermittedly.  It would  blow very well but then seem
>  to get plugged or almost plugged at times.  

snip,

Gary,

For items larger than my cabinet, I got a Sears blaster for around 50$
before 
I started my TR4 restoration about 6 years ago.

It is gravity fed and the gun works like a siphon.

I use black beauty media only and it works great.

I did replace the media hose because it was cheap rubber and kept cracking.

I got some neoprene hose from Lowes and it never clogs up.

I have blasted a TR4 frame, body tub + all body panels and last summer did
the 
same on my current TR6 project.

The nozzles are ceramic and last quite awhile. I think I have used 3 to 4
over 
the years.

Here is a link: 
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916706000P?keyword=sand+blaster

I use a single stage 220V 60 gal 7HP upright compressor.

Bob
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Feb  4 06:14:47 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 08:14:47 EST
Subject: [TR] SAAB
Message-ID: <3280.7d7d3662.389c2247@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/3/2010 11:47:02 PM Central Standard Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> Hey, everybody!  I read that Spyker bought SAAB.
> 
> Just thought you'd like to know.
> 


Hey, Jim, I heard that GM sold SAAB to somebody.  Have you heard who?

Dave

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Feb  4 06:27:26 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 13:27:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] SAAB
In-Reply-To: <D72F5A25FCCA4291BE456A99CDBFB512@bboffice>
Message-ID: <978448216.3651881265290046542.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

one might think so, but that "investment" is gonna be re-"invested".B  in more
vote buying.B 



----- Original Message -----
From: wbeech at flash.net
To: jimmuller at rcn.com, Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2010 11:59:06 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] SAAB

Sooo... Does that get us some of our 60% investment in GM back into the US
treasury?
BB

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 10:04 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] SAAB

Hey, everybody! B I read that Spyker bought SAAB.

Just thought you'd like to know.


--
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
Suggested annual donation B $11.47


You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net  Thu Feb  4 06:35:27 2010
From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 08:35:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Video
Message-ID: <4CA6EA02922D42A4A05249E6973F90CF@TomandWendyPC>

>From the ever popular BBC series "Top Gear"...
http://video.tiscali.it/canali/truveo/611_1234581161.html

From jeffn at msystech.com  Thu Feb  4 08:14:04 2010
From: jeffn at msystech.com (jeffn at msystech.com)
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 15:14:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] SAAB
Message-ID: <W9628917162124401265296444@webmail60>

The relevant connection is that Saab used a Triumph Slant-4 engine in the early production of the Saab 99


Thanks,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Feb  4 08:46:04 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 10:46:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Video
In-Reply-To: <4CA6EA02922D42A4A05249E6973F90CF@TomandWendyPC>
Message-ID: <4B6AA56C.18964.24A3A5E1@localhost>

On 4 Feb 2010 at 8:35, Tom Walling & Wendy Rose wrote:

> >From the ever popular BBC series "Top Gear"...
> http://video.tiscali.it/canali/truveo/611_1234581161.html

Wow.  I don't know what your TR6 video looks like but this link 
didn't look like anythind I recognized, automotively speaking.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Feb  4 09:44:34 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 09:44:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Video
In-Reply-To: <4CA6EA02922D42A4A05249E6973F90CF@TomandWendyPC>
References: <4CA6EA02922D42A4A05249E6973F90CF@TomandWendyPC>
Message-ID: <50FC69DBB9F64665A586449C003D496B@joepentiumnew>

This is the actual link:

http://video.tiscali.it/canali/truveo/826715804.html

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Walling & Wendy
Rose
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 6:35 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] TR6 Video

>From the ever popular BBC series "Top Gear"...
http://video.tiscali.it/canali/truveo/611_1234581161.html
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From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Feb  4 09:50:23 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 16:50:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Video
In-Reply-To: <4B6AA56C.18964.24A3A5E1@localhost>
References: <4CA6EA02922D42A4A05249E6973F90CF@TomandWendyPC>
	<4B6AA56C.18964.24A3A5E1@localhost>
Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E34C9B@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Perhaps Tom was attempting to share the James May Top Gear episode where he
drove a TR6 (in the rain). It is also on YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL0JQJNnLWo

Always liked that episode, I have it on my laptop.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 10:46 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Video

On 4 Feb 2010 at 8:35, Tom Walling & Wendy Rose wrote:

> >From the ever popular BBC series "Top Gear"...
> http://video.tiscali.it/canali/truveo/611_1234581161.html

Wow.  I don't know what your TR6 video looks like but this link
didn't look like anythind I recognized, automotively speaking.

--
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From lee at automate-it.com  Thu Feb  4 10:08:57 2010
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 11:08:57 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Video
In-Reply-To: <4B6AA56C.18964.24A3A5E1@localhost>
References: <4B6AA56C.18964.24A3A5E1@localhost>
Message-ID: <1938.192.246.38.159.1265303337.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

>> http://video.tiscali.it/canali/truveo/611_1234581161.html

> Wow.  I don't know what your TR6 video looks like but this link
> didn't look like anythind I recognized, automotively speaking.

I kept waiting for the orangutan to jump in a TR and do doughnuts or something.

 - Lee

From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Thu Feb  4 10:13:35 2010
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 12:13:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] SAAB
In-Reply-To: <W9628917162124401265296444@webmail60>
References: <W9628917162124401265296444@webmail60>
Message-ID: <F9EC3BE113AC4EDB9E20908FD89B66C1@RAS>

and that it's descendant is in the 260HP 4 cyl turbocharged engine that has
only just stopped being used this year in the 9-5 model.  I have a slightly
earlier 250HP version 9-5 and the mid-range punch from its wide torque band
puts some "performance" cars to shame.

--
Ian
62 TR4

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jeffn at msystech.com
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 10:14 AM
To: spook01 at comcast.net
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] SAAB

The relevant connection is that Saab used a Triumph Slant-4 engine in the
early production of the Saab 99


Thanks,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Feb  4 10:41:30 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 12:41:30 EST
Subject: [TR] TR6 Video
Message-ID: <bfa1.d94d40c.389c60ca@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/4/2010 10:51:13 AM Central Standard Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> >>From the ever popular BBC series "Top Gear"...
> >http://video.tiscali.it/canali/truveo/611_1234581161.html
> 
> Wow.  I don't know what your TR6 video looks like but this link 
> didn't look like anythind I recognized, automotively speaking.
> 

Good point.  I'd like to see the line of reasoning as to how this isn't off 
topic.  (Was that a Triumph bicycle?)

Dave

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Feb  4 10:49:03 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 10:49:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Car bashing
In-Reply-To: <532513.80832.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <532513.80832.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <380FED89-BEFF-4E70-B7A2-6902FCF130D9@comcast.net>

> Richard wrote: "Any further bantering should be done off list."

Why is it that someone makes their comment and thinks they get the  
last word by virtue of their perception that their comment was so  
brilliant as to end discussion.  OK NOW the bantering should be off  
list.  :)

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Feb 3, 2010, at 2:54 PM, richard triplett wrote:

> Sometimes reliabilty and longevity trumps sleekness and adrenaline.  
> Let's just leave it at that, OK? Any further bantering should be  
> done off list.
>
> Richard
> 1960 TR3A TS75434L
> oh, and a 2001 Ford Windstar
>
>>
>> Sorry Phil, for calling You Bob that is..
>> No reason for You to Care less. You have 2-3 other great
>> Cars to lower your
>> polymer footprint.
>> Nothing personal, th
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Feb  4 11:50:35 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 10:50:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Video
In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E34C9B@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <4CA6EA02922D42A4A05249E6973F90CF@TomandWendyPC>
	<4B6AA56C.18964.24A3A5E1@localhost>
	<374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E34C9B@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <a06240801c790c6b1ebd4@[192.168.2.2]>

AnnaBelle is offended by that video ... :-[  She even drives her TR6 
(Rosey) to Church, besides to and from all the events we participate 
in ... perhaps I should make a video of her driving and send it to 
TopGear ... ;-)
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Feb  4 11:53:58 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 18:53:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Video
In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E34C9B@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <1448323828.3098831265309638024.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Stan Foster (HP IT)" <stan.foster at hp.com> wrote:

> Perhaps Tom was attempting to share the James May Top Gear episode
> where he
> drove a TR6 (in the rain). It is also on YouTube
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL0JQJNnLWo
> 
> Always liked that episode, I have it on my laptop.

Although the women in our club who drive TR6 cars might quarrel with part of it...

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net  Thu Feb  4 13:31:25 2010
From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 15:31:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Video
In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E34C9B@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <4CA6EA02922D42A4A05249E6973F90CF@TomandWendyPC><4B6AA56C.18964.24A3A5E1@localhost>
	<374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E34C9B@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <583B032B22CA499A968DD83F63CCE5B7@TomandWendyPC>

Sorry 'bout that!  One of the dangers of being on so many lists.  I sent the 
orangutang video to someone else and I must not have correctly "cut" the TR6 
video address for the Triumph List.

Again... sorry!  Stan Foster's correction is what I actually wanted to send 
(thanks Stan).
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: <jimmuller at rcn.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Video


> Perhaps Tom was attempting to share the James May Top Gear episode where 
> he
> drove a TR6 (in the rain). It is also on YouTube
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL0JQJNnLWo
>
> Always liked that episode, I have it on my laptop.
>
> Stan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Jim Muller
> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 10:46 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Video
>
> On 4 Feb 2010 at 8:35, Tom Walling & Wendy Rose wrote:
>
>> >From the ever popular BBC series "Top Gear"...
>> http://video.tiscali.it/canali/truveo/611_1234581161.html
>
> Wow.  I don't know what your TR6 video looks like but this link
> didn't look like anythind I recognized, automotively speaking.
>
> --
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Thu Feb  4 14:26:24 2010
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 16:26:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Car bashing
In-Reply-To: <380FED89-BEFF-4E70-B7A2-6902FCF130D9@comcast.net>
References: <532513.80832.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<380FED89-BEFF-4E70-B7A2-6902FCF130D9@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <9A6814BF2CC44C74B6E77FBB3D466D1D@D794W231>

Yeah, that's right... I didn't let that go unanswered either. Who's next?
Wayne

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 12:49 PM
To: "richard triplett" <rtriplett25 at yahoo.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Car bashing

>> Richard wrote: "Any further bantering should be done off list."
> 
> Why is it that someone makes their comment and thinks they get the  
> last word by virtue of their perception that their comment was so  
> brilliant as to end discussion.  OK NOW the bantering should be off  
> list.  :)
> 
> Bud Rolofson
> 
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Feb 3, 2010, at 2:54 PM, richard triplett wrote:
> 
>> Sometimes reliabilty and longevity trumps sleekness and adrenaline.  
>> Let's just leave it at that, OK? Any further bantering should be  
>> done off list.
>>
>> Richard
>> 1960 TR3A TS75434L
>> oh, and a 2001 Ford Windstar
>>
>>>
>>> Sorry Phil, for calling You Bob that is..
>>> No reason for You to Care less. You have 2-3 other great
>>> Cars to lower your
>>> polymer footprint.
>>> Nothing personal, th

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Thu Feb  4 17:27:29 2010
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 17:27:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] [stag] Re:  50 Worst cars? -Bashing & Bantering?
In-Reply-To: <4B6B5ED8.80607@triumphstagclub.org>
References: <782942482.2470621265206976712.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<79243.59844.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> 
	<84DCF7D6BEEB4925BA38237348D48856@jdnet.deere.com>
	<4B6B5ED8.80607@triumphstagclub.org>
Message-ID: <4B6B65F1.9040501@triumphstagclub.org>

And if the bottom end of a "prototype" Triumph OHC V8 is so weak due to 
undersized mains and poorly designed crank,
how can it work with a super charger and not blow to smithereens?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fG7_nHcCSSg&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pzqz7VPvAGE&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqeyWqnldfs&NR=1

Time to test the Nitro injection ...

Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org




On 2/4/2010 4:57 PM, Glenn A. Merrell - TSN wrote:
> On 2/3/2010 5:59 PM, Randall wrote:
>    
>> The Stag motor (and it's kindred) I believe also stand out as the only
>> "interference" design that Triumph produced, which seems particularly silly
>> when the camshafts are driven with bicycle chain!  My 90cc Yamaha motorcycle
>> literally had a stronger drive chain than the Stag's timing chain (and much
>> easier to both check and replace).
>>
>> -- Randall
>>      
> Hey, (RE: Car Bashing) bantering is great fun!!  I cross posted this to
> another list so the bashing and bantering can continue O:-)
>
> And, hey, it is nothing but  hype and innuendo about "bicycle chain" in
> the Stag motor that only propagates more Stag myths!!

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Thu Feb  4 20:16:34 2010
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 19:16:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] The Roadster Factory Billing Info?
Message-ID: <999734.18103.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I need to know how charges for TRF show up on a credit card statement.  Is it "The Roadster Factory", "TRF" .etc. and what city, if any.


The reason I ask is I ordered parts Tuesday and a charge showed up on my discover card from Weber BMW of Fresno, Ca. 

Thanks

Kurt Johnson

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb  4 23:51:06 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 22:51:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] The Roadster Factory Billing Info?
In-Reply-To: <999734.18103.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <69.C5.02789.ADFBB6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> The reason I ask is I ordered parts Tuesday and a charge 
> showed up on my discover card from Weber BMW of Fresno, Ca. 

Better get on the horn to your credit card company!

My charges from TRF show up as "Roadster Factory  8144466860   PA".

BTW, any time you have a question like this, you should call the CC company.
It's what they get paid for, and even if the charge turn out to be legit,
it's good to have your challenge on record ASAP.

Randall

From thomas309 at aol.com  Thu Feb  4 23:53:29 2010
From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 01:53:29 EST
Subject: [TR] The Roadster Factory Billing Info?
Message-ID: <208e5.33cc3a10.389d1a69@aol.com>

Why not just call TRF?  I'm sure they could explain the  difference.
 
 
In a message dated 2/5/2010 12:36:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kajohns64 at yahoo.com writes:

I need  to know how charges for TRF show up on a credit card statement.  Is 
it  "The Roadster Factory", "TRF" .etc. and what city, if any.


The  reason I ask is I ordered parts Tuesday and a charge showed up on my 
discover  card from Weber BMW of Fresno, Ca. 

Thanks

Kurt  Johnson
Suggested annual  donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as  thomas309 at aol.com

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Feb  5 03:42:01 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 10:42:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] The Roadster Factory Billing Info?
In-Reply-To: <999734.18103.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1135570115.7201265366521734.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

sounds like "stolen identity"



----- Original Message -----
From: "Kurt Johnson" <kajohns64 at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2010 9:16:34 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [TR] The Roadster Factory Billing Info?

I need to know how charges for TRF show up on a credit card statement. B Is it
"The Roadster Factory", "TRF" .etc. and what city, if any.


The reason I ask is I ordered parts Tuesday and a charge showed up on my
discover card from Weber BMW of Fresno, Ca.

Thanks

Kurt Johnson
Suggested annual donation B $11.47


You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Feb  5 06:30:32 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 08:30:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] The Roadster Factory Billing Info?
In-Reply-To: <999734.18103.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <999734.18103.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0E49CB76E86645198FF720BDCC80559C@BobPC>

Mine shows up the same as Randall's. I'd suggest calling your credit card 
company ASAP.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Johnson" <kajohns64 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 10:16 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] The Roadster Factory Billing Info?

> I need to know how charges for TRF show up on a credit card statement.  Is 
> it "The Roadster Factory", "TRF" .etc. and what city, if any.
>
>
> The reason I ask is I ordered parts Tuesday and a charge showed up on my 
> discover card from Weber BMW of Fresno, Ca.
>
> Thanks
>
> Kurt Johnson
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Fri Feb  5 06:44:27 2010
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 05:44:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] The Roadster Factory Billing Info?
In-Reply-To: <999734.18103.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <999734.18103.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <52696.64452.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It was too late last night to call TRF and I did cancel the card.

Calling TRF this morning


It just seemed strange that I would order aprrox $500 worth of parts from TRFand than the next day have a similar amount charged to my card from Weber BMW.



Thanks to all

Kurt Johnson




















----- Original Message ----
From: Kurt Johnson <kajohns64 at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, February 4, 2010 9:16:34 PM
Subject: [TR] The Roadster Factory Billing Info?

I need to know how charges for TRF show up on a credit card statement.  Is it "The Roadster Factory", "TRF" .etc. and what city, if any.


The reason I ask is I ordered parts Tuesday and a charge showed up on my discover card from Weber BMW of Fresno, Ca. 

Thanks

Kurt Johnson
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as kajohns64 at yahoo.com

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Feb  5 08:25:12 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2010 10:25:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] The Roadster Factory Billing Info?
In-Reply-To: <1135570115.7201265366521734.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <999734.18103.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B6BF208.17117.29B6E6A5@localhost>

On 5 Feb 2010 at 10:42, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:

> sounds like "stolen identity"

Yep.  (A month or so ago our credit card company called us!  Someone 
had tried to buy a big TV but there was an "abnormality" with the 
purchase.)  You see, they are on the hook for a disputed purchase so 
they *do* want to hear from you.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Fri Feb  5 11:16:31 2010
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 18:16:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] orings
Message-ID: <BAY131-W1297BA73A13C3628CD11EB8B540@phx.gbl>

are there common off the shelf from your local hardware store, orings for use
on the z-carbs big brass plug. I tried to start the sports6 last weekend when
i noticed gas leaking from the Brass plug at the bottom og the carb. these
carbs are from a gt6


Ronnie babbitt
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Fri Feb  5 11:17:30 2010
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 18:17:30 +0000
Subject: [TR] orings
Message-ID: <BAY131-W10EB4F1088E56D4EDBADDA8B540@phx.gbl>

are there common off the shelf from your local hardware store, orings for use
on the z-carbs big brass plug. I tried to start the sports6 last weekend when
i noticed gas leaking from the Brass plug at the bottom og the carb. these
carbs are from a gt6

Ronnie babbitt
_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.

From davgil at aol.com  Fri Feb  5 14:20:28 2010
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2010 16:20:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Roadster Factory Billing Info
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1265396402.29884.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1265396402.29884.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CC74C02C76AEAF-5810-4DC7@webmail-m092.sysops.aol.com>

Kurt,

You got good advice on the credit card and I hope that your calls to TRF and
your credit card company gave you satisfaction.  However, it is important to
note that
if you have a disputed charge, you must notifiy your credit card company in
writing to protect your rights under the Fair Credit Billing Act.
David Gill
1976 TR6

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri Feb  5 18:05:40 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2010 17:05:40 -0800
Subject: [TR]  o'rings, Z-Carbs
References: <mailman.3.1265396402.29884.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000901caa6c8$80e5bc10$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hi Ronnie,
I used #12 O'rings purchased at Home Depot.
Size on package says 13/16" O.D. x 5/8" I.D x 3/32".
There is no rubber composition information on the package.
These have been in use with E10 gas for about 2 years, no problems/leaks.
Good luck.
Regards,
Bob





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447)
Database version: 6.14290
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Feb  5 20:23:56 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 20:23:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor Gear needed
Message-ID: <E984DBB655C24A30A3032AB56AE8E210@bboffice>

Hello List,
 
Just got my wiper motor all running fine only to find out the nylon gear
that drives the cable is partially stripped.  Works fine if the wiper are
flipped back from the windshield but not too good when in the correct
working position.
 
Anybody got a good one of these gears that you would wish to sell?  This
model is the early TR3A, the gear wheel is about 2" in diameter, the numbers
on the gearbox case is 75296d, this number "130" is stamped onto the gear
wheel itself.
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Sat Feb  6 05:33:09 2010
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 07:33:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] parts I used for Alternator conversion on my TR4
In-Reply-To: <46.05.19471.7EF0A4B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <46.05.19471.7EF0A4B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <d3a8fd199e990d6640b46a2497fb5dab@verizon.net>

On Jan 10, 2010, at 12:35 PM, Randall wrote:
>  Since I didn't like having the ammeter hit the peg on
> cold starts, I added a shunt across the back of it to take roughly 1/2 
> the
> current (so it read +30 when the real current was +60).  This setup was
> still working quite well for me when the car got wrecked in 2005.

OK, Randall's mentioned this a couple of times.
1) What gauge wire for the shunt?
2) Just put single female /double male adapter on the terminals and add 
the
      shunt?
>
   Gary O
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as goh62agan at verizon.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Sat Feb  6 06:26:44 2010
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 08:26:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] parts I used for Alternator conversion on my TR4
In-Reply-To: <46.05.19471.7EF0A4B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <46.05.19471.7EF0A4B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8f81e344cbf9387f970021a18e0a40ae@verizon.net>

On Jan 10, 2010, at 12:35 PM, Randall wrote:
>  Since I didn't like having the ammeter hit the peg on
> cold starts, I added a shunt across the back of it to take roughly 1/2 
> the
> current (so it read +30 when the real current was +60).  This setup was
> still working quite well for me when the car got wrecked in 2005.

OK, Randall's mentioned this a couple of times.
1) What gauge wire for the shunt?
2) Just put single female /double male adapter on the terminals and add 
the
      shunt?
3) Easy as pie?
>
   Gary O
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as goh62agan at verizon.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Sat Feb  6 06:34:57 2010
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 08:34:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  parts I used for Alternator conversion on my TR4
Message-ID: <124b74f72543064c4d2a1d65f428a7e0@verizon.net>

For some reason I'm having trouble sending this message.
Sorry for any duplicates.

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Gary O'Hagan <goh62agan at verizon.net>
> Date: February 6, 2010 8:26:44 AM EST
> To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Cc: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] parts I used for Alternator conversion on my TR4
>
>
> On Jan 10, 2010, at 12:35 PM, Randall wrote:
>>  Since I didn't like having the ammeter hit the peg on
>> cold starts, I added a shunt across the back of it to take roughly 
>> 1/2 the
>> current (so it read +30 when the real current was +60).  This setup 
>> was
>> still working quite well for me when the car got wrecked in 2005.
>
> OK, Randall's mentioned this a couple of times.
> 1) What gauge wire for the shunt?
> 2) Just put single female /double male adapter on the terminals and 
> add the
>      shunt?
> 3) Easy as pie?
>>
>   Gary O
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>>
>>
>> You are subscribed as goh62agan at verizon.net
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From stantr6 at comcast.net  Sat Feb  6 06:41:48 2010
From: stantr6 at comcast.net (stantr6 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 13:41:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor Gear needed
In-Reply-To: <E984DBB655C24A30A3032AB56AE8E210@bboffice>
Message-ID: <425859375.456061265463708875.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Bill, 
If nobody has one, suggest you spend some time at a junk lot - you may find a similar unit, even in a later model, that you can adapt. 
I have found quite a few items in two wrecked MGs that work in my TR6 - they both sourced many of their components from the same vendor. 
Stan 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: wbeech at flash.net 
To: british-cars at autox.team.net, Triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2010 10:23:56 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor Gear needed 

Hello List, 

Just got my wiper motor all running fine only to find out the nylon gear 
that drives the cable is partially stripped. Works fine if the wiper are 
flipped back from the windshield but not too good when in the correct 
working position. 

Anybody got a good one of these gears that you would wish to sell? This 
model is the early TR3A, the gear wheel is about 2" in diameter, the numbers 
on the gearbox case is 75296d, this number "130" is stamped onto the gear 
wheel itself. 

Thanks, 
Bill 

Bill Beecher 
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) 
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of 
course, some times it is difficult to make it go" 

_______________________________________________ 

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

Suggested annual donation $11.47 


You are subscribed as stantr6 at comcast.net 

Triumphs at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 

http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Feb  6 09:40:09 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 08:40:09 -0800
Subject: [TR] parts I used for Alternator conversion on my TR4
In-Reply-To: <8f81e344cbf9387f970021a18e0a40ae@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <F7.71.28245.96B9D6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> OK, Randall's mentioned this a couple of times.
> 1) What gauge wire for the shunt?

16 AWG seemed to work fine for me.  But you missed the more important
question : How long should it be?  The answer varies by ammeter, on my early
TR3A, I found that 3.5 inches was about right.  Brian Kemp measured a TR6
ammeter and found that it would need 8 inches of 16 AWG.  

The point is that every ammeter has some internal resistance (although it is
too low to measure with most ohmmeters), and the shunt needs to have nearly
the same resistance (for a 50% shunt of course).  My TR3A ammeter was about
1.2 milliohms, Brian's TR6 was 2.7 milliohms.  16 AWG is about 4 milliohms
per foot.

One way to determine this is to use the headlights as a fixed load, and
adjust the length of the shunt until the ammeter reads 1/2 what it does
without the shunt.

> 2) Just put single female /double male adapter on the 
> terminals and add the shunt?

Should be adequate, although I might be tempted to do something a bit more
permanent.  Here's a shot of mine, taken as I was disassembling TS39781LO:
http://tinyurl.com/ybvtl48

> 3) Easy as pie?

Came out a whole lot better than the last pie I tried to bake!
<G>

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Feb  6 09:45:23 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 08:45:23 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor Gear needed
In-Reply-To: <425859375.456061265463708875.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <27.A4.29573.3AC9D6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> If nobody has one, suggest you spend some time at a junk lot 
> - you may find a similar unit, even in a later model, that 
> you can adapt. 

Note however that there may be a subtle difference : other cars may not have
the same range of motion as the TR, and the gear sets the range of motion by
where the peg is located.  That is what the number "130" indicates.

Bill, if you can't find one, write me off-list.  I'm sure I've got one
somewhere, just have to find it.

Randall

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 10:12:50 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 12:12:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Location of TR4A Radiator Overflow Bottle
Message-ID: <4B6DA312.5020909@gmail.com>

Hello all,

I'm trying to install the coolant overflow bottle for a TR4A.  The  
manual just shows it "floating" in the air.  There's two logical points, 
1) the radiator attachment bolt and 2) the forward body-to-frame 
attachment.  The bracket doesn't seem to fit correctly to either of 
these points, but there's not many other choices.  Would someone please 
take a look and let me know how their bottle is attached?  A picture 
would be even better.

While I'm thinking about it, what's the consensus on routing the front 
wiring harness that runs from the right side to the left and has the 
horn and distributor wiring in it.  I've seen several images with it 
just laying on the top of the of the cardboard radiator duct, but it 
seems it should be attached somehow.

Thanks,

Ben.....

-- 
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Feb  6 11:01:51 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 11:01:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor Gear needed
In-Reply-To: <425859375.456061265463708875.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <E984DBB655C24A30A3032AB56AE8E210@bboffice>
	<425859375.456061265463708875.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B0001FEA1B0D4F07AB4F22039B1414D9@bboffice>

Found one on eBay, thanks to John Seim.  I think I am changing my search
engine from Yahoo to Google as this did not show up last night in my
searches.  
 
Also, I found a very handy catalog (.PDF File) of Lucas parts, with numbers,
at the Roll-Royce Club in Australia for all British cars 1948-1962.  If you
need this excellent reference, as I did, the link to it is:
http://rroc.org.au/wiki/images/7/7b/LUCASEquipment19481962Cars.pdf .  If for
some reason you can't get to it, email me off-line and I will be happy to
send it to you as and attachment.
 
Thanks to all!!
 
Bill
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 6:42 AM
To: wbeech at flash.net
Cc: british-cars at autox.team.net; Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper motor Gear needed


Bill,
If nobody has one, suggest you spend some time at a junk lot - you may find
a similar unit, even in a later model, that you can adapt.
I have found quite a few items in two wrecked MGs that work in my TR6 - they
both sourced many of their components from the same vendor.
Stan

----- Original Message -----
From: wbeech at flash.net
To: british-cars at autox.team.net, Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2010 10:23:56 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor Gear needed

Hello List,
 
Just got my wiper motor all running fine only to find out the nylon gear
that drives the cable is partially stripped.  Works fine if the wiper are
flipped back from the windshield but not too good when in the correct
working position.
 
Anybody got a good one of these gears that you would wish to sell?  This
model is the early TR3A, the gear wheel is about 2" in diameter, the numbers
on the gearbox case is 75296d, this number "130" is stamped onto the gear
wheel itself.
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as stantr6 at comcast.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sat Feb  6 18:08:14 2010
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 01:08:14 -0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 side curtain windows
Message-ID: <4B58F9A3.3000500@comcast.net>

What type of material was used for the front (fixed) portion of the side
curtain windows? It appears to have been stitched directly to the side
curtain at the front edge, so I am assuming that it was similar to the
flexible window material used in soft tops, but I'm not sure. The
remaining pieces have become hard and brittle with age. If it was a soft
top type of window material, does it have tendency to flap around in the
wind?

As you can probably tell, I have never seen a side curtain what was in
new condition.

Thanks,

Mike

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Sat Feb  6 19:59:08 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 18:59:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Is "grunt" torque?
Message-ID: <30762.41104.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

List,
I've been reading about the differences between torque and horsepower. 
Some TRs are often referred to as having "grunt."  Is that torque?
Pat
TR4A
'67

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 20:35:12 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 22:35:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Location of TR4A Radiator Overflow Bottle
In-Reply-To: <598497.89677.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <598497.89677.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B6E34F0.5020406@gmail.com>

OK, got it figured out.  Thanks to Cosmo and Jerry vanVlack.  What I 
wasn't figuring out was that the overflow bottle bracket goes below the 
radiator bracket, between the frame and the radiator bracket.  I was 
trying to install it after I had the radiator in and it wasn't going to 
go on that bolt on the top.

I've had no responses on the routing of the wiring for the distributor, 
horn and coolant temp sensor as it passes over the radiator and 
fiberboard duct.  Anyone got a good idea of the factory routing?

Thanks, Ben....

Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300


On 2/6/2010 8:24 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote:
> Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 12:12:50 -0500
> From: Ben Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com 
> <http://us.mc516.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bjzwissler at gmail.com>>
> Subject: [TR] Location of TR4A Radiator Overflow Bottle
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
> <http://us.mc516.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <4B6DA312.5020909 at gmail.com 
> <http://us.mc516.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=4B6DA312.5020909 at gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm trying to install the coolant overflow bottle for a TR4A.  The
> manual just shows it "floating" in the air.  There's two logical points,
> 1) the radiator attachment bolt and 2) the forward body-to-frame
> attachment.  The bracket doesn't seem to fit correctly to either of
> these points, but there's not many other choices.  Would someone please
> take a look and let me know how their bottle is attached?  A picture
> would be even better.
>
> While I'm thinking about it, what's the consensus on routing the front
> wiring harness that runs from the right side to the left and has the
> horn and distributor wiring in it.  I've seen several images with it
> just laying on the top of the of the cardboard radiator duct, but it
> seems it should be attached somehow.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ben.....
> -------------------------------------------
> Hi Ben!
> I just received my TRIUMPH Digest about 15 min. ago.
> The official spot for this bottle is down on the right side (passenger 
> side) between the frame & the rad. The bottom mounting rad bolt holds 
> it in place. Then the rubber round grommet to the frame & the nut 
> under the frame. I think the nut is welded on.
> If your cage that holds the overflow bottle doesn't fit, then E-mail 
> me because I have one.
> I fabricated a new rad. shroud & then made a bracket that attaches to 
> the underside of the Rt. bonnet hinge (between the hinge & inner fender).
> Reason: I feel that the higher the bottle & closer to the rad, then 
> better the chance for the coolant to refill the rad.
>
> -Cosmo Kramer

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Feb  6 22:43:29 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 05:43:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Is "grunt" torque?
In-Reply-To: <30762.41104.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1256503375.668381265521409377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "P Caffrey" <pcaffrey at ymail.com> wrote:

> Some TRs are often referred to as having "grunt."  Is that torque?

You bet.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb  7 00:21:01 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 23:21:01 -0800
Subject: [TR] Is "grunt" torque?
In-Reply-To: <30762.41104.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AC.64.27681.CD96E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I've been reading about the differences between torque and 
> horsepower. 
> Some TRs are often referred to as having "grunt."  Is that torque?

Pretty close.  But IMO that massive flywheel also contributes to 'grunt',
while technically it doesn't change the steady-state torque available.

Just switching to a lightweight flywheel makes the TR3 motor much less
"tractor like", without actually changing the measured torque or horsepower.

Torque is kind of like electrical current; power is either current times
voltage, or torque times rpm.

Randall

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Feb  7 06:38:00 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 08:38:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Is "grunt" torque?
In-Reply-To: <AC.64.27681.CD96E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <30762.41104.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<AC.64.27681.CD96E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <f1cP1d0055K6Zm8051cPyv@charter.net>

At 02:21 AM 2/7/2010, Randall wrote:
> > I've been reading about the differences between torque and
> > horsepower.
> > Some TRs are often referred to as having "grunt."  Is that torque?
>
>Pretty close.  But IMO that massive flywheel also contributes to 'grunt',
>while technically it doesn't change the steady-state torque available.

But it does contribute to instantaneous torque.

>Just switching to a lightweight flywheel makes the TR3 motor much less
>"tractor like", without actually changing the measured torque or horsepower.

As long as it's measured at a steady state.  I don't know about you, 
but I rarely drive at a steady state... <g>

>Torque is kind of like electrical current; power is either current times
>voltage, or torque times rpm.

For some values of torque.  Yes, it doesn't add to the numbers as 
typically published, but it can contribute to the fun, at the cost of 
smoothness vs. rapid engine speed changes.  Which is, of course, why 
there are different sizes.

In "simple" terms, torque is a force, and horsepower is how fast that 
force can be applied.


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Feb  7 07:51:53 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 09:51:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 side curtain windows
In-Reply-To: <4B58F9A3.3000500@comcast.net>
References: <4B58F9A3.3000500@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <201002070951.53596.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday 21 January 2010 08:04:35 pm Michael Lang wrote:
> What type of material was used for the front (fixed) portion of the side
> curtain windows? It appears to have been stitched directly to the side
> curtain at the front edge, so I am assuming that it was similar to the
> flexible window material used in soft tops, but I'm not sure. The
> remaining pieces have become hard and brittle with age. If it was a soft
> top type of window material, does it have tendency to flap around in the
> wind?
> 
> As you can probably tell, I have never seen a side curtain what was in
> new condition.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike
> 
Mike,

It is a very thin plexiglass about the same thickness as your top rear window. 
But it is rigid. I believe TRF sells kits to replace the front piece and the 
rear piece.

Yes it is sewn in the front leading edge.

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb  7 09:28:37 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 08:28:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] Is "grunt" torque?
In-Reply-To: <f1cP1d0055K6Zm8051cPyv@charter.net>
Message-ID: <7A.0D.29573.43AEE6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> >Pretty close.  But IMO that massive flywheel also 
> contributes to 'grunt',
> >while technically it doesn't change the steady-state torque 
> available.
> 
> But it does contribute to instantaneous torque.

Or detract from it, if you are trying to accelerate without popping the
clutch.

> As long as it's measured at a steady state.  I don't know about you, 
> but I rarely drive at a steady state... <g>

Exactly.  But measured torque (and hp) figures are almost always given under
steady-state conditions.
Thus the point I was trying to make : IMO there is more to perceived "grunt"
than is told by a torque curve.

> In "simple" terms, torque is a force, and horsepower is how fast that 
> force can be applied.

That's a little too simple, IMO.  (Horse)power is force times speed.

Randall

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Sun Feb  7 09:37:28 2010
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 10:37:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 side curtain windows
References: <4B58F9A3.3000500@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2528A5BB94504E9EA2780D08AA4D2B7F@KARL>

At two years old when I bought it, the front sidecurtain windows on TSF130L 
felt a little stiffer than rear-window material.  The local top shop had 
something that was identical to replace them - they scratched quick if you 
drove the car every day and opened the windows every drive without washing 
them first.  Because they weren't completely flat, they rubbed on the plexi 
window when sliding it open, scratching it too.


Karl Vacek
'16 Model T Ford Touring
'40 Stearman PT-17
'46 Piper J-3 Cub
'48 MGTC
'64 Triumph TR4
'78 MG Midget
'99 Mustang Cobra convertible
etc.....


> What type of material was used for the front (fixed) portion of the side
> curtain windows? It appears to have been stitched directly to the side
> curtain at the front edge, so I am assuming that it was similar to the
> flexible window material used in soft tops, but I'm not sure. The
> remaining pieces have become hard and brittle with age. If it was a soft
> top type of window material, does it have tendency to flap around in the
> wind?
>
> As you can probably tell, I have never seen a side curtain what was in
> new condition.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as kvacek at ameritech.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sun Feb  7 11:09:22 2010
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 18:09:22 -0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 side curtain windows
In-Reply-To: <ACAE4172-DAAC-409D-82F6-FEF0D6A9C136@cox.net>
References: <4B58F9A3.3000500@comcast.net>
	<ACAE4172-DAAC-409D-82F6-FEF0D6A9C136@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4B59E8F8.70209@comcast.net>

I have been trying to decide if I want to ship them to TRF and have them
redone to original spec's or have a have a local shop rebuild them. The
local shop has done dozens of them over the years, but they don't
install the original style fixed window. They do something similar to
what John has suggested below.

I have been restoring my car to drive rather than to trailer to shows so
I am always looking for alternatives to make it a little more enjoyable.

Thanks everyone for the input! I have got the information that I need to
make a decision.

Mike


John A. Wise wrote:
> If you are looking for authentic, delete this message.  When my thin/flexible fixed window popped out driving down the interstate, I decided to fix it the way my 58 MGA after market side curtains were.  I went down to my local Home Depot & bought a thin but rigged piece of plexiglass cut it to shape and glued it in place.  
>
> A big advantage is that the hard plexiglass does not "bubble out" at speed & then pull the side-curtain out and then have the cold/wet breeze blowing right at your face.  I know that is supposed to be part of the romance of LBCs, put frankly it is part I would rather forget!  :-)

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Feb  7 12:35:50 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 14:35:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 F/S near Cleveland OH
Message-ID: <BAY123-W38CD45E6A4100B0C978B73BA520@phx.gbl>

Saw this on Cleveland Craigslist.

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/1587648619.html



Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469230/direct/01/

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Sun Feb  7 12:45:23 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 11:45:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Is "grunt" torque?
In-Reply-To: <7A.0D.29573.43AEE6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <7A.0D.29573.43AEE6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <420342.13747.qm@web59706.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Thanks, everyone (both on and off list), for the feedback on torque/horsepower
and for suggesting books on the subject.
Pat
________________________________
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: list
Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, February 7, 2010 8:28:37 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Is "grunt" torque?

> >Pretty close.  But IMO that massive
flywheel also 
> contributes to 'grunt',
> >while technically it doesn't
change the steady-state torque 
> available.
> 
> But it does contribute to
instantaneous torque.

Or detract from it, if you are trying to accelerate
without popping the
clutch.

> As long as it's measured at a steady state.  I
don't know about you, 
> but I rarely drive at a steady state... <g>
Exactly.  But measured torque (and hp) figures are almost always given under
steady-state conditions.
Thus the point I was trying to make : IMO there is
more to perceived "grunt"
than is told by a torque curve.

> In "simple"
terms, torque is a force, and horsepower is how fast that 
> force can be
applied.

That's a little too simple, IMO.  (Horse)power is force times speed.
Randall

_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com

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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Feb  7 14:13:02 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 14:13:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Location of TR4A Radiator Overflow Bottle
In-Reply-To: <4B6E34F0.5020406@gmail.com>
References: <598497.89677.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4B6E34F0.5020406@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461002071313h4676db93w1c63fc8547262e47@mail.gmail.com>

> I've had no responses on the routing of the wiring for the distributor,
> horn and coolant temp sensor as it passes over the radiator and
> fiberboard duct.  Anyone got a good idea of the factory routing?

I think you've got the right routing but are perhaps missing the pair
of clips that hold the harness using 2 of the screws that also secure
the fibreboard duct.

On mine the harness is also attached to those support rods it runs
along using the same sort of attachment straps used in other areas of
the engine compartment.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Feb  7 14:22:31 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 14:22:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Location of TR4A Radiator Overflow Bottle
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461002071313h4676db93w1c63fc8547262e47@mail.gmail.com>
References: <598497.89677.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4B6E34F0.5020406@gmail.com>
	<3b0049461002071313h4676db93w1c63fc8547262e47@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461002071322s71819a23gd23dfb3cb4e8fe02@mail.gmail.com>

Here's a couple of hard-to-see pics I was able to find in my archives.
 Note: This is from a TR4 so perhaps yours is different and ignore the
overflow bottle as TR4's didn't have them and so this mounting is
likelu non-standard.

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/FrontHarnessClips.JPG

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR4Straps.JPG

Geo

On 2/7/10, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
>> I've had no responses on the routing of the wiring for the distributor,
>> horn and coolant temp sensor as it passes over the radiator and
>> fiberboard duct.  Anyone got a good idea of the factory routing?
>
> I think you've got the right routing but are perhaps missing the pair
> of clips that hold the harness using 2 of the screws that also secure
> the fibreboard duct.
>
> On mine the harness is also attached to those support rods it runs
> along using the same sort of attachment straps used in other areas of
> the engine compartment.
>
> Geo

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Feb  7 15:35:58 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 17:35:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shipping Question
Message-ID: <BAY123-W2605E071BB74BF364994EABA520@phx.gbl>

I have some TR4 seats that I will hopefully be needing to ship some time in
the future. Anybody shipped seats? Whats the best way to box/ship them?

Thanks,
Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469230/direct/01/

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Feb  7 17:27:51 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 19:27:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bummer Day
In-Reply-To: <575432.84338.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.3.1265137201.9393.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<000601caa4e4$3fc5d930$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<575432.84338.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BD2D107BB0F14F89BC64A8B650677DF9@CarlPC>

Getting the engine ready to drop on the chassis.   Ran into a problem...

One of the bolt holes at the bottom of the front plate is stripped.   It is 
one that is in the front sealing block - p/n 55810.   Part is no longer 
stocked at TRF and not referenced at Moss.

I will look through my boxes of parts to see if I have a spare, but...

Any suggestions?   Can it be filled and re-tapped?

I do have a complete spare engine but I would rather not tear it apart for 
this one part.

thanks
Carl
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(I need to update my pictures; 11/27/09

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Feb  7 17:55:54 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 19:55:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shipping Question
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W2605E071BB74BF364994EABA520@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W2605E071BB74BF364994EABA520@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F696EB203BC94C72BFEB4555CA207EDD@BobPC>

I've been told that Greyhound is a good way to ship bulky items for a 
reasonable price. The downside is you have to go to one of their terminals 
to ship and pick up.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 5:35 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Shipping Question

> I have some TR4 seats that I will hopefully be needing to ship some time 
> in
> the future. Anybody shipped seats? Whats the best way to box/ship them?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469230/direct/01/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sun Feb  7 20:30:11 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 22:30:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Routing of Front Wiring Harness
Message-ID: <4B6F8543.1010300@gmail.com>

Thanks to all who replied with information on the routing of the front 
wiring harness across the radiator.  I got a few good pictures from 
Cosmo Kramer, George Haynes and Geo Hahn and a similar written 
description from Jim Hassall.  Looks like two P-clips were used on the 
bolts securing the radiator duct along with a couple of the rubber ties 
to hold the wires to the support brackets.

What's funny is that the upper and lower front valance panels were 
replaced early in the car's life and there are several bendable tabs to 
secure a wire harness that run below the grill opening.  These appear to 
have no purpose based on the input I've gotten and that the harness 
doesn't reach well when installed using those tabs.

Thanks again everyone.

Ben - with a TR4A that's nearly finished.....

-- 
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Feb  7 21:00:54 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 22:00:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] Bummer Day
In-Reply-To: <BD2D107BB0F14F89BC64A8B650677DF9@CarlPC>
References: <mailman.3.1265137201.9393.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<000601caa4e4$3fc5d930$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<575432.84338.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<BD2D107BB0F14F89BC64A8B650677DF9@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <20100208040121.0D81E18763E@autox.team.net>

Fairly common problem, unfortunately.  A helicoil or keensert would 
be acceptable.  The hole gets drilled and tapped oversize and a 
threaded insert is screwed in and locked into place, bringing the 
thread size back to normal.

- Tony Drews

At 06:27 PM 2/7/2010, Carl TR wrote:
>Getting the engine ready to drop on the chassis.   Ran into a problem...
>
>One of the bolt holes at the bottom of the front plate is 
>stripped.   It is one that is in the front sealing block - p/n 
>55810.   Part is no longer stocked at TRF and not referenced at Moss.
>
>I will look through my boxes of parts to see if I have a spare, but...
>
>Any suggestions?   Can it be filled and re-tapped?
>
>I do have a complete spare engine but I would rather not tear it 
>apart for this one part.
>
>thanks
>Carl
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Carl - Tampa
>1961 TR3A TS81802LO
>Body Off Restoration
>Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA)
>http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>(I need to update my pictures; 11/27/09

From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb  7 21:24:28 2010
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 20:24:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Flywheel stuff
Message-ID: <929604.55726.qm@web83505.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Lightening the flywheel and moving parts, then balancing the engine allows for
much quicker engine acceleration. Wow, I can remember the results 40 years
later.  Joe Mato

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb  7 21:29:31 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 20:29:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] Bummer Day
In-Reply-To: <BD2D107BB0F14F89BC64A8B650677DF9@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <0D.96.28245.B239F6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Any suggestions?   Can it be filled and re-tapped?

Should be no problem putting a Helicoil (or equivalent) in there.  My local
full-line auto parts store (not Kragen, etc.) carries them, or any
industrial supply should have them.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91732a926/=5q0kw9

Probably best to remove the sealing block from the engine, though, and use a
drill press if you've got one.  In an emergency, though, I've been known to
just use the special tap as a reamer, and not drill at all.  The stripped
part of the hole is already almost the right size, so it's easy to start the
tap.  Then when it hits the unstripped part at the bottom, go carefully and
only cut for 1/4 turn or less before backing up to break the chip.

Remember not to bottom the insert in the hole, as the last few threads are
not cut full depth.  You can use needle-nose pliers to break the tang and
pull it out; plus a Dremel tool with an abrasive cutoff blade works well to
trim any excess insert length.  I also like to use a few drops of Loctite on
the outside of the insert, to lock it into the hole (although this probably
isn't really necessary).

The insert is actually stronger than the original threads (or so I'm told).
In fact, we used to routinely install them in cast aluminum housings, to
avoid having the holes stripped in the field.

Randall

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Mon Feb  8 02:17:45 2010
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim Vassiliadis)
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 2010 22:17:45 +1300
Subject: [TR] removing TR4 gearbox rear seal
Message-ID: <719AFA3906794D00A47011DB76B0B062@athlon>

I have a 1962 TR4 with an overdrive gearbox and would like to change the
rear overdrive and also diff pinion seal.
Do I need a puller if some sort ie how is it done?

Thankyou

Jim Vass

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Feb  8 06:00:23 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 08:00:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 side curtain windows
In-Reply-To: <4B59E8F8.70209@comcast.net>
References: <4B58F9A3.3000500@comcast.net>
	<ACAE4172-DAAC-409D-82F6-FEF0D6A9C136@cox.net>
	<4B59E8F8.70209@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <201002080800.23436.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday 22 January 2010 01:05:44 pm Michael Lang wrote:
> I have been trying to decide if I want to ship them to TRF and have them
> redone to original spec's or have a have a local shop rebuild them. The
> local shop has done dozens of them over the years, but they don't
> install the original style fixed window. They do something similar to
> what John has suggested below.
> 
> I have been restoring my car to drive rather than to trailer to shows so
> I am always looking for alternatives to make it a little more enjoyable.
> 
> Thanks everyone for the input! I have got the information that I need to
> make a decision.
> 
Mike,

There is a shop somewhere in Connecticut that offers a rebuild service. I see 
them advertise on Ebay from time to time.

Not sure what the cost is but it may be a buy it now for around 600 $ or so.

If I ever see the item again I will post a message here.

Bob

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Feb  8 06:02:38 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 2010 08:02:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bummer Day
In-Reply-To: <0D.96.28245.B239F6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <0D.96.28245.B239F6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <FDAF043CF8704F04989DEA6132768753@CarlPC>

Thank you Randall, Tony & Michael for your responses.   Seems that it isn't 
as big an issue as I thought. Will get a Helicoil (or equivalent as Randall 
put it) this week.

Another question for the masses....

Which engine 'add-ons' can be safely put back on the engine before I drop it 
on the chassis without jeopardizing the body re-install.   I know the carbs 
should stay off but what about everything else.

I am thinking that at least the fuel pump, distributor, waterpump, and fan 
can be on the engine.

Anything else?

Along those same lines, I am planning on installing driveshaft, brake & fuel 
lines, and exhaust before the body.  Any thing else that would make sense 
with the body off the chassis?

I am sure getting excited about seeing an actual car sometime in the next 
month or so.

Thanks again for the responses and the continued help and support of the 
list.
Carl 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Feb  8 06:18:01 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 08:18:01 EST
Subject: [TR] Bummer Day
Message-ID: <2b38.1745314.38a16909@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/7/2010 11:54:35 PM Central Standard Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> Should be no problem putting a Helicoil (or equivalent) in there.  My 
> local
> full-line auto parts store (not Kragen, etc.) carries them, or any
> industrial supply should have them.
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#91732a926/=5q0kw9
> 

Another alternative is to just take it to a machine shop and have them do 
it.  I was all set to buy the kit from McMaster-Carr (about $50) when I found 
a hole-in-the-wall machine shop who put one in for $17.50.  It should be no 
trouble finding one who will do it for twice that amount.

Dave

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Feb  8 15:41:16 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 17:41:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bummer Day
In-Reply-To: <FDAF043CF8704F04989DEA6132768753@CarlPC>
References: <0D.96.28245.B239F6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<FDAF043CF8704F04989DEA6132768753@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <201002081741.16451.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

> Another question for the masses....
> 
> Which engine 'add-ons' can be safely put back on the engine before I drop
>  it on the chassis without jeopardizing the body re-install.   I know the
>  carbs should stay off but what about everything else.

Carl,

When I put the body on my 4 a few years back the carbs were off and that was 
all. I am guessing your front apron will also be off as well as the front 
wings. I did the 4 all by myself using a chain fall connected by ropes from 
the front hood hinges and in the rear by the rear fender bolt holes.

I first dropped the rear. Set it in place with a few screw drivers and then 
lowered the front. Had it all bolted down by noon on a Saturday morning.

I hope my current 6 project will go as smooth 
> 
> I am thinking that at least the fuel pump, distributor, waterpump, and fan
> can be on the engine.
Sure.
> 
> Anything else?

I made sure the throttle linkage was installed as there is not much room with 
the engine there.

One other thing, make sure you have all the body pads installed on the frame. 
Use some glue or contact cement.

> 
> Along those same lines, I am planning on installing driveshaft, brake &>

The 4's full drive train was installed, engine running and exhaust completely 
installed.etc. Removed carbs only before lowering body.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Feb  8 17:27:56 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 19:27:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 side curtain windows
In-Reply-To: <4B59E8F8.70209@comcast.net>
References: <4B58F9A3.3000500@comcast.net>
	<ACAE4172-DAAC-409D-82F6-FEF0D6A9C136@cox.net>
	<4B59E8F8.70209@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <201002081927.56698.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday 22 January 2010 01:05:44 pm Michael Lang wrote:
> I have been trying to decide if I want to ship them to TRF and have them
> redone to original spec's or have a have a local shop rebuild them. The
> local shop has done dozens of them over the years, but they don't
> install the original style fixed window. They do something similar to
> what John has suggested below.
> 
> I have been restoring my car to drive rather than to trailer to shows so
> I am always looking for alternatives to make it a little more enjoyable.
> 
> Thanks everyone for the input! I have got the information that I need to
> make a decision.
> 
> Mike
> 
Mike,

There is a shop somewhere in Connecticut that advertises on Ebay from time to 
time that offers complete rebuilding.

Can't remember the cost but it may be a buy-it-now for around 600 $ or so not 
sure.


Bob

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Mon Feb  8 19:11:29 2010
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 02:11:29 -0000
Subject: [TR] removing TR4 gearbox rear seal
In-Reply-To: <719AFA3906794D00A47011DB76B0B062@athlon>
References: <719AFA3906794D00A47011DB76B0B062@athlon>
Message-ID: <4B5BAB69.8060901@comcast.net>

I have driven a sharp flat bladed screw driver through the metal body of
the seal and used it to pry it out of place. The down side to this is
the possibility of going too far and nicking the bearing or leaving
metal shards behind. I believe that there is a type of hook that can be
attached to a slide hammer for this purpose but I don't own one.

I recently purchase a box full of Churchill Tools off of Craigslist here
in Portland. It included a set of tools for removing seals. They are
tapered sleeves of various diameters that have very coarse threads on
that outside of the taper. It looks like they get threaded into the face
of the seal. There is a threaded rod that is used to push on the pinion
shaft (or what ever) to pull the seal out. I am looking forwards to
giving them a try to see if they really work.

Mike

Jim Vassiliadis wrote:
> I have a 1962 TR4 with an overdrive gearbox and would like to change the
> rear overdrive and also diff pinion seal.
> Do I need a puller if some sort ie how is it done?
>
> Thankyou
>
> Jim Vass

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Feb  8 19:41:32 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon,  8 Feb 2010 19:41:32 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [TR] Team.Net Slowness
Message-ID: <20100209024132.9DE3D2E065@bradakis.com>

Currently there is some issue with the main Team.Net
mail server.  Messages come in to the server, get handed
off to the mailing list manager and then for some as yet
unknown reason don't get sent out for roughly two hours,
maybe two and a half.  Ah, the wonders of modern technology.

I'm looking into it, hopefully will have the situation
improved soon.  That's why I get paid the big bucks here!


mjb.

From dwillner at ptd.net  Tue Feb  9 07:51:38 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 09:51:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Paint codes for wire wheels
Message-ID: <C0CBD9508C7E466F9A2DD2A3740A747E@greenwaymedical.com>

Does anyone have any original and accurate paint codes for wire wheels, the
warm grey, not looking for the rattle can stuff from Moss or Eastwoods. Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A (primer)
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Feb  9 11:13:22 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 13:13:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 side curtain windows
References: <4B58F9A3.3000500@comcast.net><ACAE4172-DAAC-409D-82F6-FEF0D6A9C136@cox.net><4B59E8F8.70209@comcast.net>
	<201002081927.56698.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <81BFE3599BA846BCBAB76AFD568408EA@Edscomputer>

Bob and List,

The gentleman that used to do all the side curtain rebuilding for TRF (TRF 
now does them in house, I'm told) is Larry Learn of Learn Upholstery in 
Clymer, PA. Phone is 724.465.8661.  The curtains on my TR3A were by Larry.

NFI and all that.

Ed Woods 

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Feb  9 11:21:26 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 10:21:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats
Message-ID: <695582.62951.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I'm beginning to plan for renewing the interior of my tr-3.  My old springs were completely shot without hope of renewal.  I'm thinking of foam but am wondering about what kind/quality/vendor ect.  Has anyone gone this direction and if so are you happy with the results?  Any help would be appreciated.
thanks!
gary n.  

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Tue Feb  9 21:56:23 2010
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 04:56:23 -0000
Subject: [TR] removing TR4 gearbox rear seal
In-Reply-To: <6fa72a771002090601t18ea8f1aq1a815dbb5d0e87c0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <719AFA3906794D00A47011DB76B0B062@athlon>
	<4B5BAB69.8060901@comcast.net>
	<6fa72a771002090601t18ea8f1aq1a815dbb5d0e87c0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B5D23A1.8020103@comcast.net>

I was quite pleased with the purchase. They include some A-type
overdrive tools including a pressure gauge. Now I need to find an A-type
overdrive to rebuild :-)

Mike


Chris Simo wrote:
> nice score on the tools!!!
>
> On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 9:07 PM, Michael Lang <mlang99 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>   
>> I have driven a sharp flat bladed screw driver through the metal body of
>> the seal and used it to pry it out of place. The down side to this is
>> the possibility of going too far and nicking the bearing or leaving
>> metal shards behind. I believe that there is a type of hook that can be
>> attached to a slide hammer for this purpose but I don't own one.
>>
>> I recently purchase a box full of Churchill Tools off of Craigslist here
>> in Portland. It included a set of tools for removing seals. They are
>> tapered sleeves of various diameters that have very coarse threads on
>> that outside of the taper. It looks like they get threaded into the face
>> of the seal. There is a threaded rod that is used to push on the pinion
>> shaft (or what ever) to pull the seal out. I am looking forwards to
>> giving them a try to see if they really work.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Feb 10 05:42:09 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 07:42:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats
In-Reply-To: <695582.62951.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <695582.62951.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201002100742.10079.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 09 February 2010 01:21:26 pm Gary Nafziger wrote:
> I'm beginning to plan for renewing the interior of my tr-3.  My old springs
>  were completely shot without hope of renewal.  I'm thinking of foam but am
>  wondering about what kind/quality/vendor ect.  Has anyone gone this
>  direction and if so are you happy with the results?  Any help would be
>  appreciated. thanks!
> gary n.
> 
> _______________________________________________
Gary,

TRF sells springs that they make in-house. 

Hopefully someone on the list has tried them and can give you their feel for 
the springs.

Bob

From auprichard at comcast.net  Wed Feb 10 06:40:28 2010
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 08:40:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Covered Trailer and MI
In-Reply-To: <4B5D23A1.8020103@comcast.net>
References: <719AFA3906794D00A47011DB76B0B062@athlon><4B5BAB69.8060901@comcast.net><6fa72a771002090601t18ea8f1aq1a815dbb5d0e87c0@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B5D23A1.8020103@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2C8F0D2859E14C278705A2BE213841BA@DCH6RFC1>

List:

My wife and I have decided to give up the corporate life, downsize and
relocate to Michigan. Two questions:
1.  Does anyone know anything about covered car trailers?  Much as I'd like
to drive TCF119LO to MI, it is February and I'd also like to keep the car
under protection.
2.  Anyone out there live in the Jackson, MI area?

Andrew Uprichard
TCF119LO driving well
TS51185LO just sold to Belgium
CD8433L basket case

From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Feb 10 06:53:51 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 08:53:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats
In-Reply-To: <201002100742.10079.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <695582.62951.qm@web65304.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<201002100742.10079.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <8CC786F9CB461DA-5644-B6D4@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com>

Gary,

TRF sells springs that they make in-house.

Hopefully someone on the list has tried them and can give you their feel for
the springs.

Bob









Indeed.  I sat on one at Triumphest/VTR and they are quite nice.  Much better
than my knackered, old springs which are destined for the dust bin and will be
replaced with a pair of Charles' springs as the resto progresses.

From guy at genfiniti.com  Wed Feb 10 09:02:37 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 10:02:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A Project Update and Seats Request
Message-ID: <2AA4FB3C-58B7-4CA0-BC6C-E8CB47D583DC@genfiniti.com>

All,

OK... with some major financial priorites now out of the way (it only took a
little under three years, but we now have no liabilities outside of a
mortgage, praise God!!), I'm back off and running on the Triumph!

Last month I rented a trailer, drove over to my father in-laws shop (Bigger
Hammer Racing), loaded-up all the body components and drove everything over to
Metal Rehab for cleaning and priming. While at the shop, I took a cutting
wheel and an angle grinder to that thin piece of metal that was brazed over
the top of the battery box. As I suspected, tons of rust and some major holes
to boot. So, I know that I am going to replace it, and most likely the
driver's side floor pan. I'll make the decision on the floor pan once I see
how it looks after Metal Rehab gets done with it.

While they are working it over, I'm thinking through the rest of the body
effort and the critical path for completing the car. I'm also flirting with
various upgrades, etc., trying to decide what's worth it and what's not.

Also looking for some alternative part suppliers. The prices at the big three
are getting stupid expensive. In the latest catalog for Moss, they're asking
over $250 for a alloy water-pump housing. Yikes! Make me wonder what the
freakin' mark-up is on their stuff.

Finally, I am looking for some TR4A seat frames.  If anyone has some they
would part with, please let me know!!

As always, thanks to everyone for their gracious help and support.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Wed Feb 10 10:23:02 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 12:23:02 EST
Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats
Message-ID: <8ff5.1ae4f32c.38a44576@aol.com>

Dave,
The TRF springs are excellent.  I have them in my TR3B.
Darrell
 
 
In a message dated 2/10/2010 9:14:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dave1massey at cs.com writes:

Gary,

TRF sells springs that they make  in-house.

Hopefully someone on the list has tried them and can give you  their feel 
for
the  springs.

Bob

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Wed Feb 10 12:11:05 2010
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 19:11:05 +0000
Subject: [TR] Help needed in SC
Message-ID: <749320397-1265829068-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-105914867-@bda558.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

There is a gentleman who is broken down in the Hilton Head area.  His TR3 is leaking oil badly. He is in need of a repair shop, does anyone know of a good repair shop in the area.  He is about 3K mile from home. 

Ronnie  
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Wed Feb 10 12:29:20 2010
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 14:29:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Interest in a TR6 SuperCharger?
Message-ID: <4B730910.6030307@earthlink.net>

Hello to all,

I've decided, after over a decade, to go back to a fully stock TR6.  
That means the V.I.S. sc will come off and the carbs go back on.  I 
don't care about the speed any more since I have another toy that 
fulfills that aspect of the hobby.  Plus, having all the original 
"stuff" (including air con that is off due to the sc) from AMCO and 
Leyland I think it is time for a driving "show car".  What I'd like to 
sell is a Vintage Induction Systems blower system from Peter Boucher.  
It will be the full kit plus a specially built Joe Curto HD8 carb from a 
Jag.  All the documentation and original pictures of the kit are here.  
It is completely bolt on with normal Craftsman tools.  It is very fast 
with the large pulley installed.  It is SCARY fast with the small pulley 
installed and anything like street brakes.  It is currently on my car 
and running and I don't want to remove it until I can pack it up and 
ship it off to someone who'd like to have a bit more speed.  No, I 
haven't thought of a price yet but it will be well under the Moss Motors 
price.  Any interest?

Joe B.

From lisa at josephvincelli.com  Wed Feb 10 14:44:17 2010
From: lisa at josephvincelli.com (Lisa Richardson)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 15:44:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] testing
Message-ID: <3697F97EE8BF435EAF51E33379B8AEBD@LisaRichardsPC>

xxx

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Feb 10 16:52:24 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 23:52:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Covered Trailer and MI
In-Reply-To: <2C8F0D2859E14C278705A2BE213841BA@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <1463114869.2278001265845944816.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net> wrote:

> My wife and I have decided to give up the corporate life, downsize
> and
> relocate to Michigan. Two questions:
> 1.  Does anyone know anything about covered car trailers?  Much as I'd
> like

There's two kinds.  
1.  Light and aerodynamic
2.  Cheap

I have the cheap kind.  An oldish Pace American.  So I have a muscular and heavy truck.

What are you planning on towing with?

I know a guy who tows a Honda S2000 in a motorcycle trailer.  A pain fitting it in and then getting himself out, but he gets by with a smaller SUV.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net  Wed Feb 10 21:42:29 2010
From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 23:42:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr-3 seats
In-Reply-To: <8ff5.1ae4f32c.38a44576@aol.com>
References: <8ff5.1ae4f32c.38a44576@aol.com>
Message-ID: <859F224CF0E24E68BE0F6E779086A8BD@TomandWendyPC>

Lucky you!  TRF is having a "special" on seat rebuilding components right 
now.  Go to :

http://www.zeni.net/trf/webcatalog/specials7.4/?s_wt=1440&s_ht=900

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: <dave1massey at cs.com>; <yellowtr at adelphia.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 seats


> Dave,
> The TRF springs are excellent.  I have them in my TR3B.
> Darrell
>
>
> In a message dated 2/10/2010 9:14:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> dave1massey at cs.com writes:
>
> Gary,
>
> TRF sells springs that they make  in-house.
>
> Hopefully someone on the list has tried them and can give you  their feel
> for
> the  springs.
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Thu Feb 11 07:31:53 2010
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 09:31:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Interest in a TR6 SuperCharger?
In-Reply-To: <4B730910.6030307@earthlink.net>
References: <4B730910.6030307@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4B7414D9.8030808@earthlink.net>

To all,

Here is the link to the photos of the installed kit:

 http://picasaweb.google.com/jburlein/TR6Supercharger?authkey=Gv1sRgCNiE0sHq_OTccg&feat=directlink

Not in the kit, but included is a boost gauge, heat shield and extra 
belt.  The kit was about $2K in 99.  Make an offer!

Joe

Joe Burlein wrote:
> Hello to all,
>
> I've decided, after over a decade, to go back to a fully stock TR6.  
> That means the V.I.S. sc will come off and the carbs go back on.  I 
> don't care about the speed any more since I have another toy that 
> fulfills that aspect of the hobby.  Plus, having all the original 
> "stuff" (including air con that is off due to the sc) from AMCO and 
> Leyland I think it is time for a driving "show car".  What I'd like to 
> sell is a Vintage Induction Systems blower system from Peter Boucher.  
> It will be the full kit plus a specially built Joe Curto HD8 carb from 
> a Jag.  All the documentation and original pictures of the kit are 
> here.  It is completely bolt on with normal Craftsman tools.  It is 
> very fast with the large pulley installed.  It is SCARY fast with the 
> small pulley installed and anything like street brakes.  It is 
> currently on my car and running and I don't want to remove it until I 
> can pack it up and ship it off to someone who'd like to have a bit 
> more speed.  No, I haven't thought of a price yet but it will be well 
> under the Moss Motors price.  Any interest?
>
> Joe B.

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Thu Feb 11 09:54:44 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 09:54:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
Message-ID: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>

I bought an after market electrical outlet (a cigar lighter w/o the lighter
piece) to install in my TR3A.  I am installing it so I can use my GPS when
needed on longer trips.  My question is (because the package did not said &
the guy at auto parts place was as clueless as I) should the central touch
point at the back of the socket or the walls of the socket get the hot wire???
I am assuming for electronics like a GPS it would make a difference.

I have an Adv Autowire system with a negative ground.

Thanks

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Feb 11 10:10:55 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 12:10:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
Message-ID: <20100211121055.AJG17209@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

> should the central touch point at the back of the socket or
> the walls of the socket get the hot wire???  I am assuming
> for electronics like a GPS it would make a difference.

They key question, as you rightly surmised, is "What polarity do the accessories using the plug expect?"

They expect + on the central tip.  Unless your car is + ground you should attach the central tip wire to either a wire always powered or one that is switched through the accessories or ignition circuit.  The choice depends on how you want it to behave when you turn the ignition key.

If your car is + ground you'll have to reverse the wiring, chassis ground to the central tip and powered wire to the plug's side.  Make sure the plug's side doesn't touch the chassis ground or you'll create a short.

The only exception to this would be for old cig-lighter-plug accessories intended for a + ground car.  I believe GPS didn't exist back then...  And of course incandescent lights don't care but LED's do.
--
Jim Muller, having powered all sorts of things this way in the GT6, including a refrigerator

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Feb 11 10:35:52 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 10:35:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>
References: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>
Message-ID: <0D88F1B8F6224ABCBDB761C236F0CC4F@joepentiumnew>

Ditto what Jim said.  However, there is something else to consider.  That is
whether you want to power to the plug on all the time or just when the key
is on.

I just bought a pair of those accessory plugs from O'Reilly auto parts and
after thinking about it, I decided to connect one to always hot and the
other one for switched.  That way I can connect the GPS unit to the hot one
and my Radar detector to the switched one.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John A. Wise
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 9:55 AM
To: Triumph car discussion Sports
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A

I bought an after market electrical outlet (a cigar lighter w/o the lighter
piece) to install in my TR3A.  I am installing it so I can use my GPS when
needed on longer trips.  My question is (because the package did not said &
the guy at auto parts place was as clueless as I) should the central touch
point at the back of the socket or the walls of the socket get the hot
wire???
I am assuming for electronics like a GPS it would make a difference.

I have an Adv Autowire system with a negative ground.

Thanks

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Thu Feb 11 11:57:57 2010
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 13:57:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <0D88F1B8F6224ABCBDB761C236F0CC4F@joepentiumnew>
References: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>
	<0D88F1B8F6224ABCBDB761C236F0CC4F@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <8CC796342951C3A-23F4-81FD@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>

 Just be sure that, if your car is positive ground, the ground wire on the
plug will be attached to a positive source.  If you put positive to positive
and negative to negative, it'll fry your GPS, cell phone, or anything else.

Ned Paulsen
Webster, NY








-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
To: 'John A. Wise' <60TR3A at cox.net>; 'Triumph car discussion Sports'
<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2010 12:35 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A


Ditto what Jim said.  However, there is something else to consider.  That is
whether you want to power to the plug on all the time or just when the key
is on.

I just bought a pair of those accessory plugs from O'Reilly auto parts and
after thinking about it, I decided to connect one to always hot and the
other one for switched.  That way I can connect the GPS unit to the hot one
and my Radar detector to the switched one.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John A. Wise
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 9:55 AM
To: Triumph car discussion Sports
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A

I bought an after market electrical outlet (a cigar lighter w/o the lighter
piece) to install in my TR3A.  I am installing it so I can use my GPS when
needed on longer trips.  My question is (because the package did not said &
the guy at auto parts place was as clueless as I) should the central touch
point at the back of the socket or the walls of the socket get the hot
wire???
I am assuming for electronics like a GPS it would make a difference.

I have an Adv Autowire system with a negative ground.

Thanks

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Feb 11 12:00:16 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 14:00:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
References: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>
Message-ID: <1344D86EEEE74DBEADE898ADF19D36CF@DCS78M81>

I think that the central touchpoint should be "+" also.
When I wired mine I made a small hole in the side of the glove box and the 
electrical outlet stays in there until I need it then it can dangle out or 
the GPS cord comes out the crack in the glove box door and still closes.
Works great for me.
Tom 

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Thu Feb 11 12:13:15 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 12:13:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <1344D86EEEE74DBEADE898ADF19D36CF@DCS78M81>
References: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>
	<1344D86EEEE74DBEADE898ADF19D36CF@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <527A169C-76B4-4252-BD6B-AF61FAD0054D@cox.net>

I found a small flat-black plastic plug with mounting feet & a cover for the
socket that I mounted inside the cockpit to the bottom of the battery box with
pop rivets.  It is out of the way and not noticeable unless you are looking
for it.

After verifying the dot should be positive, I plugged in my GPS and it worked
without any smoke emissions  :-)

So thanks to everyone who replied.

John

John
On  11 Feb, 2010, at 12:00 PM, THOMAS FANSHER wrote:

> I think that the central touchpoint should be "+" also.
> When I wired mine I made a small hole in the side of the glove box and the
electrical outlet stays in there until I need it then it can dangle out or the
GPS cord comes out the crack in the glove box door and still closes.
> Works great for me.
> Tom

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 11 12:35:58 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:35:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <20100211121055.AJG17209@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20100211121055.AJG17209@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <EE6F21B7DB524DCE8C754FAF16BCC3FB@jdnet.deere.com>

> If your car is + ground you'll have to reverse the wiring, 
> chassis ground to the central tip and powered wire to the 
> plug's side. 

That is exactly correct, but it leaves a danger lurking.  Some plug-in
devices have the negative side (the shell of the socket) connected to
exposed metal.  If that exposed metal touches pretty much any metal part of
the car, you now have a short !

This was brought home to me many years ago, when a friend temporarily
installed a CB radio in his positive ground MGA.  He clamped the antenna to
the rear bumper and wired the radio in being careful to observe polarity
(but not so careful to chose a fused wire).  It worked, at first, so we set
out on our road trip.  Couple hundred miles later, the rusty bumper mounts
vibrated enough to finally make good electrical contact with the rest of the
car, and all the smoke leaked out of his wiring harness !

-- Randall  

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Feb 11 15:47:17 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:47:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <EE6F21B7DB524DCE8C754FAF16BCC3FB@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20100211121055.AJG17209@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> 
	<EE6F21B7DB524DCE8C754FAF16BCC3FB@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <6fa72a771002111447v3dbb62u8ffd064a542f690d@mail.gmail.com>

ahh.  reminds me of my first radio (72 chevy neg ground in a pos ground
car) install on the TR2. Thought it was cool that I had a cigarette ligher
powering the radio (to be 17 again!)  During a rainy test drive the radio
fell off the transmissoin hump and it contacted metal.

All the magic smoke left the radio and wiring immeadiately - pity the TR2
top does not let smoke out as fast as it lets rain in.....

There was a bit of excitement as we found the shoulder of the road.   My
sister hated me for this - but come to think of it - she always did.  so I
can't say it degraded our relationship....

Chris

63 TR4
54 TR2

From fishplate at charter.net  Thu Feb 11 15:50:16 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:50:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>
References: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>
Message-ID: <gmob1d00E5K6Zm805mocDq@charter.net>

At 11:54 AM 2/11/2010, you wrote:
>I bought an after market electrical outlet (a cigar lighter w/o the lighter
>piece) to install in my TR3A.

I didn't see anyone mention - Don't forget the fuse!

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Feb 11 16:06:32 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 18:06:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <gmob1d00E5K6Zm805mocDq@charter.net>
References: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net> 
	<gmob1d00E5K6Zm805mocDq@charter.net>
Message-ID: <6fa72a771002111506vb66b66exb4540b8b5ac5831@mail.gmail.com>

Fuse?  We don't need no stinking fuses!

I was 17 - no fuses at all!!!!  How the heck I became an electrical engineer
I'll never know!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 11 16:21:06 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 15:21:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <6fa72a771002111506vb66b66exb4540b8b5ac5831@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>
	<gmob1d00E5K6Zm805mocDq@charter.net>
	<6fa72a771002111506vb66b66exb4540b8b5ac5831@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6A2FE5C5910C4F4D82BE0E9EE66BBEC8@jdnet.deere.com>

> I was 17 - no fuses at all!!!!  How the heck I became an 
> electrical engineer I'll never know!

That's easy, you wanted to know how to put the smoke back in!

-- Randall  

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Thu Feb 11 16:49:02 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 16:49:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <gmob1d00E5K6Zm805mocDq@charter.net>
References: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>
	<gmob1d00E5K6Zm805mocDq@charter.net>
Message-ID: <57A22741-EA50-4EF8-B596-C9EED5AEB940@cox.net>

> I didn't see anyone mention - Don't forget the fuse!


Jeff, Andrew,Chris, et alii

I have a Dan Masters electrical system and have a bunch of fuses.  The circuit
I am using was intended for the cigar lighter and is shared by my antitheft
alarm & this outlet.  I probably could lower the amp of the fuse...
>


John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Thu Feb 11 17:24:45 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:24:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <gmob1d00E5K6Zm805mocDq@charter.net>
References: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>
	<gmob1d00E5K6Zm805mocDq@charter.net>
Message-ID: <AE889E0D-80BE-46D2-9E30-01613D3C571A@cox.net>

> I didn't see anyone mention - Don't forget the fuse!


Jeff, Andrew,Chris, et alii

I have a Dan Masters electrical system and have a bunch of fuses.  The circuit
I am using was intended for the cigar lighter and is shared by my antitheft
alarm & this outlet.  I probably could lower the amp of the fuse...
>


John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From kingscreektrees at aol.com  Thu Feb 11 18:26:41 2010
From: kingscreektrees at aol.com (kingscreektrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 20:26:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Covered Trailer and MI
In-Reply-To: <1463114869.2278001265845944816.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CC799990CF9A2F-4360-5DCE@webmail-m040.sysops.aol.com>

My advice would be to make sure you get a trailer that seems a bit bigger than
you need. I had a 16ft open landscaping trailer and it was dead easy to get
the car on, plenty of space around it, in front of it and behind it, to get it
secured. I've now gone to a 20 footer for my equipment, but I also bought a
used 13ft tandem axle enclosed trailer with a 6ft wide bed that was custom
made for a friend who used to have a TR3A like mine. When he specified the
trailer, he looked at the car's dimensions and had the trailer made just a
tiny bit bigger, all around, than the car. The result is a nice, compact
trailer but it is a complete pain to get the car on, get out of the car, and
get it secured.

If I were buying another enclosed trailer to put my TR in, it would be at
least 6.5 feet wide, preferably wider, and it would be 16ft long. I know that
sounds excessive but from a securing standpoint, it's always best to have the
straps or chains as horizontal as possible as they go from the car to the
tie-downs. With my 13-footer, the straps are almost vertical and that means
they have a bit of freedom to rotate a little on the tie-downs, so the car can
move back and forth a bit.

Tim
'57 TR3A, '65 Volvo PV544 Sport, '51 Chev 3-ton, '91 Mustang Convertible
redneckmobile






---- Original Message ----
From: pethier at comcast.net
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at comcast.net>
Cc: triumph list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Feb 10, 2010 6:52 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Covered Trailer and MI


----- "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net> wrote:
> My wife and I have decided to give up the corporate life, downsize
 and
 relocate to Michigan. Two questions:
 1.  Does anyone know anything about covered car trailers?  Much as I'd
 like
There's two kinds.
.  Light and aerodynamic
.  Cheap
I have the cheap kind.  An oldish Pace American.  So I have a muscular and
heavy
ruck.
What are you planning on towing with?
I know a guy who tows a Honda S2000 in a motorcycle trailer.  A pain fitting
it
n and then getting himself out, but he gets by with a smaller SUV.
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
979 Caterham 7
994 Miata C-package
004 Suburban 8.1
007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
ethier [at] comcast [dot] net
ttp://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
ttp://www.triumphtransamerica.org
ttp://www.mnautox.com
Suggested annual donation  $11.47

ou are subscribed as kingscreektrees at aol.com
Triumphs at autox.team.net
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
http://www.team.net/archive

From agraham at execulink.com  Thu Feb 11 19:29:52 2010
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 21:29:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 control head information
Message-ID: <4B74BD20.9020505@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Just about to embark on installing a new wiring harness on my TR2 
control head. I do recall the big mess I had on my hands when trying to 
"rebuild" the control head on an earlier TR3 project.
Has anyone come across any detailed photos/instructions on a control 
head rebuild & re-wiring? Want to be a bit more prepared this time around.
Thanks for any help anyone can provide.
Angelo Graham

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 12 00:17:31 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 23:17:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 control head information
In-Reply-To: <4B74BD20.9020505@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <40.B5.04431.A80057B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Has anyone come across any detailed photos/instructions on a control 
> head rebuild & re-wiring? 

Try http://tinyurl.com/yamdra6

I intend to do more eventually, but it's a start at least and should be
helpful.  The two pages of instructions were reprinted in TR Action and
scanned by Don Elliott.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Feb 12 06:15:16 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 08:15:16 EST
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
Message-ID: <2d71.59494b20.38a6ae64@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/11/2010 5:09:28 PM Central Standard Time, 
ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: 
> Fuse?  We don't need no stinking fuses!
> 
> I was 17 - no fuses at all!!!!  How the heck I became an electrical 
> engineer
> I'll never know!
> 

Last week I couldn't even spell injunear, today I are one.

Dave

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri Feb 12 08:10:52 2010
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 10:10:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Interest in a TR6 SuperCharger?  SOLD
In-Reply-To: <4B7414D9.8030808@earthlink.net>
References: <4B730910.6030307@earthlink.net> <4B7414D9.8030808@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4B756F7C.60505@earthlink.net>

Thanks to everyone who responded.  The unit is sold pending the 
clearance of funds.

Thanks for all the interest,

Joe

Joe Burlein wrote:
> To all,
>
> Here is the link to the photos of the installed kit:
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/jburlein/TR6Supercharger?authkey=Gv1sRgCNiE0sHq_OTccg&feat=directlink 
>
>
> Not in the kit, but included is a boost gauge, heat shield and extra 
> belt.  The kit was about $2K in 99.  Make an offer!
>
> Joe
>
> Joe Burlein wrote:
>> Hello to all,
>>
>> I've decided, after over a decade, to go back to a fully stock TR6.  
>> That means the V.I.S. sc will come off and the carbs go back on.  I 
>> don't care about the speed any more since I have another toy that 
>> fulfills that aspect of the hobby.  Plus, having all the original 
>> "stuff" (including air con that is off due to the sc) from AMCO and 
>> Leyland I think it is time for a driving "show car".  What I'd like 
>> to sell is a Vintage Induction Systems blower system from Peter 
>> Boucher.  It will be the full kit plus a specially built Joe Curto 
>> HD8 carb from a Jag.  All the documentation and original pictures of 
>> the kit are here.  It is completely bolt on with normal Craftsman 
>> tools.  It is very fast with the large pulley installed.  It is SCARY 
>> fast with the small pulley installed and anything like street 
>> brakes.  It is currently on my car and running and I don't want to 
>> remove it until I can pack it up and ship it off to someone who'd 
>> like to have a bit more speed.  No, I haven't thought of a price yet 
>> but it will be well under the Moss Motors price.  Any interest?
>>
>> Joe B.

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri Feb 12 12:06:02 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 12:06:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <57A22741-EA50-4EF8-B596-C9EED5AEB940@cox.net>
References: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net>
	<gmob1d00E5K6Zm805mocDq@charter.net>
	<57A22741-EA50-4EF8-B596-C9EED5AEB940@cox.net>
Message-ID: <D9EBD6CD-3D5B-43D7-9572-CE2EAC9BBB8F@cox.net>

Now you got me thinking (dangerous for an over-educated old professor!)  If
all I have on the circuit is my car alarm & occasionally a GPS, what size fuse
should I use.  Right now that line has a 20 Amp fuse (it was intended for a
cigar lighter), which even for me sounds way too high.

Thanks

John


On  11 Feb, 2010, at 4:49 PM, John A. Wise wrote:

>> I didn't see anyone mention - Don't forget the fuse!
>
>
> Jeff, Andrew,Chris, et alii
>
> I have a Dan Masters electrical system and have a bunch of fuses.  The
circuit I am using was intended for the cigar lighter and is shared by my
antitheft alarm & this outlet.  I probably could lower the amp of the fuse...


John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 12 12:43:22 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 11:43:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] electrical outlet on a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <D9EBD6CD-3D5B-43D7-9572-CE2EAC9BBB8F@cox.net>
References: <9C8CAA34-60CA-4A21-BE5E-7713B60E8C04@cox.net><gmob1d00E5K6Zm805mocDq@charter.net><57A22741-EA50-4EF8-B596-C9EED5AEB940@cox.net>
	<D9EBD6CD-3D5B-43D7-9572-CE2EAC9BBB8F@cox.net>
Message-ID: <DAE1F66DFAB9427C883B5444E1188BC5@jdnet.deere.com>

> Right now 
> that line has a 20 Amp fuse (it was intended for a cigar 
> lighter), which even for me sounds way too high.

Not unreasonable, if the wire is sized for it.  Fuses are to protect the
wires, not the devices connected to them.

That said, you probably could go smaller, if you're certain you'll never use
a high power device (like say, a powered beer cooler) in the socket.

But if the wire will handle 20 amps without damage, why bother?

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 12 12:58:49 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 11:58:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 control head information
In-Reply-To: <4B74BD20.9020505@execulink.com>
References: <4B74BD20.9020505@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <1455E3B187C444158EC872BB0FD24B75@jdnet.deere.com>

> Thanks for any help anyone can provide.

If you use the new harness from TRF, I would definitely recommend using wire
pulling lubricant when installing it through the stator tube.  I found this
kind at Home Depot, which seemed to work well for me, but likely any brand
would work about as well.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/51010.html

I've heard that other vendors offer a skinnier harness that pulls easier,
but the lube still wouldn't hurt, IMO.  Even the factory harness is pretty
darn snug, especially if the tube is kind of grungy inside.

-- Randall  

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Fri Feb 12 15:33:51 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 17:33:51 EST
Subject: [TR] Fuel smell
Message-ID: <149fb.32803c27.38a7314f@aol.com>

Dear Listers;
 
I'm trying to eradicate the smell of fuel from my TR3A. I can't park the  
car in the garage because the smell of fuel then gets into the house. I've 
gone  through every fuel line, I've renewed the fuel pump, inspected and 
adjusted the  carbs, renewed all gaskets and I know there are no fuel leaks. 
However, the  smell persists, so I have to relegate the car to the farm 
equipment shed and  this poses a logistical problem with moving equipment around, 
etc.
 
The other day I was reading an old copy of the TRA magazine and it said  
there will always be a slight smell of fuel from a sidescreen TR because of  
how the fuel breather is designed.
 
Has anyone tried to overcome this?
 
Tim

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Feb 12 15:57:51 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 17:57:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fuel smell
In-Reply-To: <149fb.32803c27.38a7314f@aol.com>
References: <149fb.32803c27.38a7314f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAE65A281EA14D4DA8F5128DE28002B4@CarlPC>

I saw a '3 at a car show that had a fuel shutoff switch in the breather tube 
that comes off the gas tank and goes below the chassis.   They basically put 
a small detour in it with a switch on the trunk side of the back wall of the 
trunk.

Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <KingsCreekTrees at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 5:33 PM
Subject: [TR] Fuel smell


> Dear Listers;
>
> I'm trying to eradicate the smell of fuel from my TR3A. I can't park the
> car in the garage because the smell of fuel then gets into the house. I've
> gone  through every fuel line, I've renewed the fuel pump, inspected and
> adjusted the  carbs, renewed all gaskets and I know there are no fuel 
> leaks.
> However, the  smell persists, so I have to relegate the car to the farm
> equipment shed and  this poses a logistical problem with moving equipment 
> around,
> etc.
>
> The other day I was reading an old copy of the TRA magazine and it said
> there will always be a slight smell of fuel from a sidescreen TR because 
> of
> how the fuel breather is designed.
>
> Has anyone tried to overcome this?
>
> Tim
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 12 16:36:53 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 15:36:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fuel smell
In-Reply-To: <BAE65A281EA14D4DA8F5128DE28002B4@CarlPC>
References: <149fb.32803c27.38a7314f@aol.com>
	<BAE65A281EA14D4DA8F5128DE28002B4@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <03DA4B659BDD4DD0836FD2C618ED5CFF@jdnet.deere.com>

> I saw a '3 at a car show that had a fuel shutoff switch in 
> the breather tube 
> that comes off the gas tank and goes below the chassis.   

Mine is just blocked off entirely; has a golf tee driven into the end of the
pipe!  Been that way for over 20 years, ever since I discovered that fuel
was slopping on the ground during left turns with a full tank of fuel.

There is a small breather hole in the center of my gas cap (the part that
actually closes off the tank, not the chrome part you see).  It's been on
every cap I've had, but apparently is not in all of them.  But I'm not
convinced it's required, as the center piece does not fit snugly onto the
spring-loaded post that it rides on.  If you think about how long it takes
to burn a tank of fuel even at top speed, it doesn't take much of an air
leak to match the flow.

I also replaced the short float bowl breather tubes with much longer tubes
that hang down past the frame rail.  The idea was mostly to ensure that a
stuck float valve couldn't dump raw fuel into my paper element air filters
(or down the carb throats), but I think they also help keep fumes from
escaping when the car is parked.

However, if the smell is that strong, I would suspect you have an
unidentified leak somewhere.  A leaking fuel tank, for example, can be hard
to spot because the fuel can lay in the cavity under the tank and evaporates
from there, instead of dripping to the ground.  The jet glands and float
bowl seals are also very prone to leak just enough to wet the bottom of the
carb, without actually dripping.  If you can touch the bottom of the jet, or
the bolt that holds the float bowl, and then smell fuel on your finger, the
associated seal is leaking.  If the car is hard to start after sitting for a
week or so, that's another sign that the float bowls are leaking.

Another place to check is the connector between fuel tank & cap.  If it is
cracked due to age, or loose because someone forgot a clip, it can form a
hard-to-find leak.  On the Stag, I had to resort to pressurizing the entire
fuel system to find it.

-- Randall  

From GSFuqua1 at aol.com  Fri Feb 12 16:52:41 2010
From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 18:52:41 EST
Subject: [TR] Fuel smell
Message-ID: <16e6e.3018a2c7.38a743c9@aol.com>

Tim, I am assuming that when you said you had renewed all the gaskets,  
etc., that you also renewed the rubber tube that goes between the external gas  
cap and the raised lip of the fuel tank.  That rubber hose is held in place 
 by two clamps, one at each end.  Originally they were the dual wire clamps 
 but given that no one can really see them without pulling the trunk board 
aside  I use the modern clamps to I know I have a good seal there.  The hose 
is  about 2 1/2" to 3" inches in diameter and about 4 or 5 inches long.   
Depending on the model of TR 3 there can also be a very large nut that screws 
 onto the threaded end of the piece coming down from the gas cap.  I 
believe  there is either a rubber (like an O-Ring only flat and or a paper gasket 
that  goes between the nut and the gas cap.
 
It's been a while since I have done the plumbing back in that area but  
hopefully I haven't forgotten everything.  If I have I'm sure someone on  the 
list can get it straight for you.
 
Cheers,
 
Gary

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sat Feb 13 05:52:07 2010
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 07:52:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fuel smell
In-Reply-To: <149fb.32803c27.38a7314f@aol.com>
References: <149fb.32803c27.38a7314f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <562B42DED5BE477EBE880AC077FBD453@DCH6RFC1>

Tim:

Like you, I too had this problem, compounded by (a) the wife with the most
acute sense of smell in the TR world, and (b) the fact that our garage is
below our bedroom.

Someone on the list suggested I park the car outside the garage for a couple
of minutes and then push it in the last few feet.  Seemed to work, although
I'm probably also going to take Randall's suggestions.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 5:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Fuel smell

Dear Listers;
 
I'm trying to eradicate the smell of fuel from my TR3A. I can't park the  
car in the garage because the smell of fuel then gets into the house. I've 
gone  through every fuel line, I've renewed the fuel pump, inspected and 
adjusted the  carbs, renewed all gaskets and I know there are no fuel leaks.

However, the  smell persists, so I have to relegate the car to the farm 
equipment shed and  this poses a logistical problem with moving equipment
around, 
etc.
 
The other day I was reading an old copy of the TRA magazine and it said  
there will always be a slight smell of fuel from a sidescreen TR because of

how the fuel breather is designed.
 
Has anyone tried to overcome this?
 
Tim
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From popnglo at gmail.com  Sat Feb 13 06:25:58 2010
From: popnglo at gmail.com (popnglo at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 13:25:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] Thrust washers - Main and Con bearings
Message-ID: <001485e989e217bf04047f7b5316@google.com>

Hello List,

After a number of years I am making a return to the list, in search of the  
sage advice. In the interim (I think its been maybe 2-3 years hiatis, maybe  
more). I have been driving the TR3A and generally neglecting the  
maintenance as I diverted to motorcycle interests. I now have 2 Yamaha  
XS650' s (a 1979 and a 1980). The '79 I completely tore apart and I guess  
you'd say a frame off... but that's another list. These are the 2 cylinder  
air cooled vertical twins, of the British Triumph, BSA, Norton, etc style.  
OHC instead of pushrod.

Back to the TR3 ... I decided this winter to follow a sound that's been  
bothering me, seemingly originating at the bottom end. I did find the  
starter dog bolt loose and I have found the crank end float to be .012"  
(spec is (.004" - .006"). I had in the past (I think 3-4 years ago, maybe  
more) changed the main bearings and con bearings when I did the sleeves and  
pistons, but for some reason not the thrust washers, maybe not the con  
bearings either. I'ma little fuzzy there.

My question, what may be the recommended source for the bearings and thrust  
washers. I would prefer to go this time with the tri-metal type. I am  
almost positive that I got the (County?)bearings I did change before are  
from MOSS and they were the bi-metal type. I see that BFE and Brit Parts NW  
(maybe TRF too) carry the tri-metal bearings. I will probably go with  
standard size, I'll measure the journals, but I am not the least bit  
thrilled to pull the crank unless I find something there that really  
justifies that.

Also, I have been thinking to replace the oil pump drive shaft and bush.  
These aren't cheap though and I am wondering whether they are worth it. Any  
experiance out there? Also I do recall that there had been problems in the  
past with "soft metal" shafts where the tang would fail after replacement.  
Just wondering whether this is worth the bother. Is that little woodruff  
key as difficult to seat as I imagine it could be?

In any case the apron, radiator, fan, hub, sump, etc, are all off and the  
bottom end innards exposed, just sitting there waiting for their respective  
maintenance interval.

I have been lurking on the list for the past 2 weeks, I see some familiar  
listers and some new and some (to me) missing. I hope all has been well  
with all and I hope going forward I will be able to contribute some. TIA  
for any reply.

Best Regards,

Ed(1958 TR3A - Hudson Valley, NY)

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Feb 13 07:19:05 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 09:19:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR250 Hazard Switch
References: <8ff5.1ae4f32c.38a44576@aol.com>
	<859F224CF0E24E68BE0F6E779086A8BD@TomandWendyPC>
Message-ID: <AE0D669D67934867ABF03808B41E147D@Edscomputer>

List,

Several questions regarding the TR250 hazard switch:

1. Was it manufactured by Lucas or Clear Hooters?
2. Will later hazard switches by Lucas fit the TR250 dash opening?
3. If so, which one(s)?

Thanks,

Ed Woods

From popnglo at gmail.com  Sat Feb 13 09:33:27 2010
From: popnglo at gmail.com (Ed Poplawski)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 11:33:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Thrust washers - Main and Con bearings
In-Reply-To: <001485e989e217bf04047f7b5316@google.com>
References: <001485e989e217bf04047f7b5316@google.com>
Message-ID: <f3e5047e1002130833l5e1c96d4w9aef0e38a4dee166@mail.gmail.com>

Ted,
I didn't plan to pull the engine, so no plan for a boil. When I did
the top end a few years ago (head, sleeves, pistons, etc) I did really
clean out the water jacket, dental pick and vacuum technique, not a
boil of course.
If I see anything strange on the crank journals I may pull out the
crank and get it worked on , but not further than that I'd say. Though
I'd rather not.
The noise I was hearing could well have been the starter dog bolt
being loose, but since I was there well why not take a look see. The
timing chain tensioner was good this time, which I can't say was the
case the last noise I chased.
Thanks for the feedback.
Ed (58 TR3 Hudson Valley NY)

On 2/13/10, popnglo at gmail.com <popnglo at gmail.com> wrote:
> Hello List,
>
> After a number of years I am making a return to the list, in search of the
>
> sage advice. In the interim (I think its been maybe 2-3 years hiatis, maybe
>
> more). I have been driving the TR3A and generally neglecting the
> maintenance as I diverted to motorcycle interests. I now have 2 Yamaha
> XS650' s (a 1979 and a 1980). The '79 I completely tore apart and I guess
> you'd say a frame off... but that's another list. These are the 2 cylinder
>
> air cooled vertical twins, of the British Triumph, BSA, Norton, etc style.
>
> OHC instead of pushrod.
>
> Back to the TR3 ... I decided this winter to follow a sound that's been
> bothering me, seemingly originating at the bottom end. I did find the
> starter dog bolt loose and I have found the crank end float to be .012"
> (spec is (.004" - .006"). I had in the past (I think 3-4 years ago, maybe
> more) changed the main bearings and con bearings when I did the sleeves and
>
> pistons, but for some reason not the thrust washers, maybe not the con
> bearings either. I'ma little fuzzy there.
>
> My question, what may be the recommended source for the bearings and thrust
>
> washers. I would prefer to go this time with the tri-metal type. I am
> almost positive that I got the (County?)bearings I did change before are
> from MOSS and they were the bi-metal type. I see that BFE and Brit Parts NW
>
> (maybe TRF too) carry the tri-metal bearings. I will probably go with
> standard size, I'll measure the journals, but I am not the least bit
> thrilled to pull the crank unless I find something there that really
> justifies that.
>
> Also, I have been thinking to replace the oil pump drive shaft and bush.
> These aren't cheap though and I am wondering whether they are worth it. Any
>
> experiance out there? Also I do recall that there had been problems in the
>
> past with "soft metal" shafts where the tang would fail after replacement.
>
> Just wondering whether this is worth the bother. Is that little woodruff
> key as difficult to seat as I imagine it could be?
>
> In any case the apron, radiator, fan, hub, sump, etc, are all off and the
> bottom end innards exposed, just sitting there waiting for their respective
>
> maintenance interval.
>
> I have been lurking on the list for the past 2 weeks, I see some familiar
> listers and some new and some (to me) missing. I hope all has been well
> with all and I hope going forward I will be able to contribute some. TIA
> for any reply.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Ed(1958 TR3A - Hudson Valley, NY)
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sat Feb 13 10:51:35 2010
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 17:51:35 -0000
Subject: [TR] Thrust washers - Main and Con bearings
In-Reply-To: <001485e989e217bf04047f7b5316@google.com>
References: <001485e989e217bf04047f7b5316@google.com>
Message-ID: <4B61CDC1.2030306@comcast.net>

Hi Ed,

I am also currently chasing a bottom end rattle. My engine is fresh with
only about 3500 miles on it so I am not concerned about rods/mains/wrist
pins, timing chain, etc. I do currently have the distributor and oil
pump drive out of it, since I did not replace these parts when I rebuilt
the engine.

I am also considering replacement of the oil pump drive shaft and
bushing. I think the durability of an after-market bushing is probably
low risk just so long as it's machined to the proper tolerances. I do
think that I would take the new drive shaft and have it Rockwell
hardness tested at a machine shop.

My rattle is only when hot and very distinct. It only occurs at a slow
idle (500 rpm) and very narrow rpm range. A minor change in rpm and it
disappears. In fact if I set the rpm to 800, I never hear it. If I don't
resolve it with the oil pump shaft, I am just going to drive it and not
worry. It runs great otherwise with no strange noises.

I would be interested to hear your results when finished.

Thanks,

Mike

popnglo at gmail.com wrote:
> Hello List,
>
> After a number of years I am making a return to the list, in search of the  
> sage advice. In the interim (I think its been maybe 2-3 years hiatis, maybe  
> more). I have been driving the TR3A and generally neglecting the  
> maintenance as I diverted to motorcycle interests. I now have 2 Yamaha  
> XS650' s (a 1979 and a 1980). The '79 I completely tore apart and I guess  
> you'd say a frame off... but that's another list. These are the 2 cylinder  
> air cooled vertical twins, of the British Triumph, BSA, Norton, etc style.  
> OHC instead of pushrod.
>
> Back to the TR3 ... I decided this winter to follow a sound that's been  
> bothering me, seemingly originating at the bottom end. I did find the  
> starter dog bolt loose and I have found the crank end float to be .012"  
> (spec is (.004" - .006"). I had in the past (I think 3-4 years ago, maybe  
> more) changed the main bearings and con bearings when I did the sleeves and  
> pistons, but for some reason not the thrust washers, maybe not the con  
> bearings either. I'ma little fuzzy there.
>
> My question, what may be the recommended source for the bearings and thrust  
> washers. I would prefer to go this time with the tri-metal type. I am  
> almost positive that I got the (County?)bearings I did change before are  
> from MOSS and they were the bi-metal type. I see that BFE and Brit Parts NW  
> (maybe TRF too) carry the tri-metal bearings. I will probably go with  
> standard size, I'll measure the journals, but I am not the least bit  
> thrilled to pull the crank unless I find something there that really  
> justifies that.
>
> Also, I have been thinking to replace the oil pump drive shaft and bush.  
> These aren't cheap though and I am wondering whether they are worth it. Any  
> experiance out there? Also I do recall that there had been problems in the  
> past with "soft metal" shafts where the tang would fail after replacement.  
> Just wondering whether this is worth the bother. Is that little woodruff  
> key as difficult to seat as I imagine it could be?
>
> In any case the apron, radiator, fan, hub, sump, etc, are all off and the  
> bottom end innards exposed, just sitting there waiting for their respective  
> maintenance interval.
>
> I have been lurking on the list for the past 2 weeks, I see some familiar  
> listers and some new and some (to me) missing. I hope all has been well  
> with all and I hope going forward I will be able to contribute some. TIA  
> for any reply.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Ed(1958 TR3A - Hudson Valley, NY)

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Sat Feb 13 11:16:48 2010
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 13:16:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] fuel smell
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1552.1266083496.6563.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1552.1266083496.6563.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ED8C8D01-0F05-400D-8A17-2AAAA53C3765@mgcarclub.com>

I have an early TR4 and for all practical purposes same as the TR3 in  
the fuel dept. Then only time(s) I have smelled fuel in the garage,  
it turned out to be a leak.

Allen
>
> I'm trying to eradicate the smell of fuel from my TR3A. I can't  
> park the
> car in the garage because the smell of fuel then gets into the  
> house. I've
> gone  through every fuel line, I've renewed the fuel pump,  
> inspected and
> adjusted the  carbs, renewed all gaskets and I know there are no  
> fuel leaks.
> However, the  smell persists, so I have to relegate the car to the  
> farm
> equipment shed and  this poses a logistical problem with moving  
> equipment around,
> etc.
>
> The other day I was reading an old copy of the TRA magazine and it  
> said
> there will always be a slight smell of fuel from a sidescreen TR  
> because of
> how the fuel breather is designed.

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Feb 13 11:44:18 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 13:44:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] fuel smell
In-Reply-To: <ED8C8D01-0F05-400D-8A17-2AAAA53C3765@mgcarclub.com>
References: <mailman.1552.1266083496.6563.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<ED8C8D01-0F05-400D-8A17-2AAAA53C3765@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <2409F8EEB0104A52BCA2229AEDBE3337@AlexPC>

Hi Allen,
When restoring my 59 TR3A I was aware of this situation from several other 
owners.
I remedied the problem by mounting a very nice looking brass valve in the 
back panel in the boot. (Lowes plumbing dept) The hose connections go right 
through the panel where I connected a hose coming from the open vent tube to 
the top of the valve and a length of tube to the exit port of the valve. 
When in the garage I turn the valve to off. This eliminates the fuel vapors 
from permeating the garage. Just remember to turn it back on to open the 
tank venting.
Alex
59 TR3A
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allen Hess" <allenhess at mgcarclub.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2010 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] fuel smell


>I have an early TR4 and for all practical purposes same as the TR3 in  the 
>fuel dept. Then only time(s) I have smelled fuel in the garage,  it turned 
>out to be a leak.
>
> Allen
>>
>> I'm trying to eradicate the smell of fuel from my TR3A. I can't  park the
>> car in the garage because the smell of fuel then gets into the  house. 
>> I've
>> gone  through every fuel line, I've renewed the fuel pump,  inspected and
>> adjusted the  carbs, renewed all gaskets and I know there are no  fuel 
>> leaks.
>> However, the  smell persists, so I have to relegate the car to the  farm
>> equipment shed and  this poses a logistical problem with moving 
>> equipment around,
>> etc.
>>
>> The other day I was reading an old copy of the TRA magazine and it  said
>> there will always be a slight smell of fuel from a sidescreen TR  because 
>> of
>> how the fuel breather is designed.

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Feb 14 06:12:03 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:12:03 EST
Subject: [TR] TR tr -3 part number
Message-ID: <17784.e1a20c2.38a950a3@aol.com>

List, i need to find the original part number and name of company that made 
 the original timing chain for the tr3 motor. also, was the original timing 
chain  a single row or a double row chain? larry  schwartz

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Feb 14 06:23:30 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:23:30 EST
Subject: [TR] TR- non tr
Message-ID: <17a12.5ad8621b.38a95352@aol.com>

list, what is the true definition of NOS?. I purchased a part ten years ago 
 from a vender. the part is still in the original plastic bag, unopened. 
can this  part be put under the classification of NOS? or is there another 
term that  should be applied to a ten year old new part? and finally, for a 
original part  from the days back, what would that be called?  larry  schwartz

From gtwincams at gmail.com  Sun Feb 14 07:57:08 2010
From: gtwincams at gmail.com (Greg Tatarian)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 06:57:08 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR- non tr
In-Reply-To: <17a12.5ad8621b.38a95352@aol.com>
References: <17a12.5ad8621b.38a95352@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B780F44.9070802@gmail.com>

The definition of NOS has been interpreted differently over the years. 
Wikipedia provides one definition as "old parts for obsolete equipment 
that have never been sold at retail", (Barron's Educational Series).
For car parts, nowadays it appears to mean New, Old Stock from the 
original equipment manufacturer, even if it was relabled and marketed 
under a different brand, which happened frequently with imported British 
and European cars in the past (think Beck Arnley, Repco). The NOS term 
has also previously been used to describe any period-manufactured part, 
whether OEM or not, but as time has passed, people are looking for more 
specificity.
A part made by another manufacturer as a replacement part during the 
same production period as the vehicle and/or new OEM parts is now more 
commonly called New, Old Replacement Stock. If your timing chain was 
made by Stanpart, it would be NOS.
Parts made in recent years are called Replacement Parts. If your timing 
chain was made by another manufacturer in recent years, it would 
therefore be referred to as a Replacement Part.
Don't count on using an original part number unless you have the 
cross-reference books, as many numbers changed over the years, for 
various reasons.
There does seem to be some ambiguity in these terms, so I expect that 
there will be others with different definitions. These are how I 
understand them.
Cheers,
Greg Tatarian



L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> list, what is the true definition of NOS?. I purchased a part ten years ago 
>  from a vender. the part is still in the original plastic bag, unopened. 
> can this  part be put under the classification of NOS? or is there another 
> term that  should be applied to a ten year old new part? and finally, for a 
> original part  from the days back, what would that be called?  larry  schwartz
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as gtwincams at gmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Feb 14 09:18:56 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:18:56 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR- non tr
In-Reply-To: <17a12.5ad8621b.38a95352@aol.com>
References: <17a12.5ad8621b.38a95352@aol.com>
Message-ID: <987671.31976.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

I guess terminologies vary from country to country? In the UK, we'd call it
New Old Stock if it was an unused part in its original packing - e.g. Stanpart
or that of a proprietary manufacturer like Lucas, Lockheed, Girling. All would
rate as having equal status, originality and 'genuine-ness.' There wouldn't be
as much street-cred for another unused 'as new' part in non-identifiable
packing. I suppose the desireability for such a part would depend entirely on
the part, whether or not its still available and how much someone wants to
have it for their car.

Jonmac




________________________________
From:
"L1J1S at aol.com" <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 14
February, 2010 13:23:30
Subject: [TR] TR- non tr

list, what is the true
definition of NOS?. I purchased a part ten years ago 
from a vender. the part
is still in the original plastic bag, unopened. 
can this  part be put under
the classification of NOS? or is there another 
term that  should be applied
to a ten year old new part? and finally, for a 
original part  from the days
back, what would that be called?  larry  schwartz
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are
subscribed as macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Feb 14 09:30:51 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:30:51 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR tr -3 part number
In-Reply-To: <17784.e1a20c2.38a950a3@aol.com>
References: <17784.e1a20c2.38a950a3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <103852.33511.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

As a general rule, the key supplier to the (former) UK motor industry for all
types of timing chain was Renold. There were others, but Renold was usually
the preferred supplier. It's still in operation and I have heard will make
special one-off chains providing someone comes up with a minimum order
quantity though this could mean two or three hundred chain sets?. Not too sure
on the accuracy of this piece of info, but I *believe* the Stag Owners Club in
the UK got Renold to make a stock of replacement timing chains for its members
as many of them had experienced 'nasties' from other suppliers. I've also
heard that if you can obtain exact measurements, single and Duplex chains
emanating from BMW are often felt to be vastly superior to the stuff coming
out of India and Taiwan.

Jonmac



________________________________
From:
"L1J1S at aol.com" <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 14
February, 2010 13:12:03
Subject: [TR] TR tr -3 part number

List, i need to
find the original part number and name of company that made 
the original
timing chain for the tr3 motor. also, was the original timing 
chain  a single
row or a double row chain? larry  schwartz
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are
subscribed as macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From jmitch at snet.net  Sun Feb 14 10:52:22 2010
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:52:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 crankshafts
Message-ID: <4B783856.7020102@snet.net>

    I notices that there are different part numbers for PI cranks versus 
Carb crankshafts.  Does anyone know what the differences are?  Thanks
 

John Mitchell  76 TR6   72 Stag

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 14 11:03:30 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 10:03:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR- non tr
In-Reply-To: <17a12.5ad8621b.38a95352@aol.com>
References: <17a12.5ad8621b.38a95352@aol.com>
Message-ID: <38AEBC69BD734C4CA2EA6F890299E88A@Meislaptop>

> list, what is the true definition of NOS?. 

If you look at eBay, it seems that anything that wasn't made last week can
be called "NOS".  But to my way of thinking, it applies only to parts made
by the original manufacturer during the period and never installed.

At best, I would call what you have "NORS" (New Old Replacement Stock),
since it presumably was not made by the original manufacturer.  But 10 years
hardly qualified as 'old', when we are talking about parts for a 50+ year
old car.

Which is why I'll never get rich on eBay <G>

Randall

From carlsereda at aol.com  Sun Feb 14 12:58:38 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 11:58:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] Tr timing chain
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1266174001.12777.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C3576C22.3500.409E.B164.9562F11E51A0@aol.com>

Years ago I bought a TR4 timing chain from eBay because it came in an AE
branded box. When I received chain I saw that every link is stamped AE. I
assume (perhaps incorrectly) AE is the same company with the great reputation
as the AE Hepolite 87mm piston and liner business. The chain looks great, has
no clip opening as originals but has not been fitted yet.

I see British Parts Northwest is selling this AE timing chain too. I think
they have high standards in general - they also offer a TR 'timing gears &
chain set' manufactured in Germany.

Speaking of timing parts.. does anyone know Rockwell hardness of the TR crank
'timing gear'? I bought a supposedly NOS crank timing gear that goes thud
instead of ting (although it looks official). I have a feeling it's 'NORS' or
'NOS from Triumph's declining years' - perhaps made from crummy steel or just
not hardened..

Is there a Rockwell hardness number I should have this TR crank gear tested
for?

Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

On Feb 14, 2010, at 11:00:01 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

List, i need to find the original part number and name of company that made 
the original timing chain for the tr3 motor. also, was the original timing 
chain a single row or a double row chain? larry schwartz

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sun Feb 14 13:47:56 2010
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 20:47:56 -0000
Subject: [TR] TR tr -3 part number
In-Reply-To: <17784.e1a20c2.38a950a3@aol.com>
References: <17784.e1a20c2.38a950a3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CDA0D9854B414B1084BD3EC42370A2D4@AdrianPC>

The original chain was probably manufactured by Renold. The company was used 
by many UK manufacturers at that time. I do believe that the original 
Triumph part number is 057151.
Incidently replacement chains are available Stateside for $11.00.

Regards,
Adrian
TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 1:12 PM
Subject: [TR] TR tr -3 part number


> List, i need to find the original part number and name of company that 
> made
> the original timing chain for the tr3 motor. also, was the original timing
> chain  a single row or a double row chain? larry  schwartz
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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07:35:00

From dwillner at ptd.net  Sun Feb 14 14:03:40 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:03:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR tr -3 part number
References: <17784.e1a20c2.38a950a3@aol.com>
	<CDA0D9854B414B1084BD3EC42370A2D4@AdrianPC>
Message-ID: <6B1BC89A5E854AC2A588ABBFD20FDE31@valued9cfc0b6f>

Larry,

I just took a look at my original "Spare Parts Catalogue" (Part no. 501653) 
and they list the chain as a "Duplex," part number 57151, and yes it shows a 
double row.

I believe Renolds was probably more widely known for chains, my BSA uses 
several Renolds chains.

Dave Willner
Stoudsburg PA
1959 TR3A
1970 MGB
1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 1:12 PM
Subject: [TR] TR tr -3 part number

List, i need to find the original part number and name of company that
made the original timing chain for the tr3 motor. also, was the original 
timing
chain  a single row or a double row chain? larry  schwartz

From dwillner at ptd.net  Sun Feb 14 14:08:29 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:08:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw:  TR tr -3 part number
Message-ID: <31A9BB8D4B4B4E478B55EE093990B61C@valued9cfc0b6f>

I'm thinking now "Duplex" after "Chain, timing" might mean two rows, and not 
the mfgr... Sorry.

Dave

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "davewillner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
To: <L1J1S at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR tr -3 part number


> Larry,
>
> I just took a look at my original "Spare Parts Catalogue" (Part no. 
> 501653) and they list the chain as a "Duplex," part number 57151, and yes 
> it shows a double row.
>
> I believe Renolds was probably more widely known for chains, my BSA uses 
> several Renolds chains.
>
> Dave Willner
> Stoudsburg PA
> 1959 TR3A
> 1970 MGB
> 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 1:12 PM
> Subject: [TR] TR tr -3 part number
>
> List, i need to find the original part number and name of company that
> made the original timing chain for the tr3 motor. also, was the original 
> timing
> chain  a single row or a double row chain? larry  schwartz

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Feb 14 15:00:18 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 17:00:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Automatic TR3
Message-ID: <201002141700.18679.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

For all those of you who always wanted a TR3 with an automatic transmission, 
your wait is over.

See:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR3-convertible-roadster-restored-
whole-
parts_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c531ffa0aQQitemZ190373165578QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Not sure what he has for an engine but seems to be a lot of "cob jobs" in that 
engine bay.

Seller says worth up to 20K. Hmmmm.

Bob

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 14 15:04:28 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:04:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] spot lights
In-Reply-To: <DF6A75C2-4B99-43DF-87AD-47B0D438323F@telus.net>
References: <mailman.4.1264359602.6213.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<DF6A75C2-4B99-43DF-87AD-47B0D438323F@telus.net>
Message-ID: <C73D2005BF89479B97776ED65D5EED7D@ranteer.local>

hi, all.  seems I just broke the top clip where the dual spots attach to 
their stand.

plus the two lights don't stay put very well.

I'm thinking of replacing them.  This setup (two spots on an adjustable 
stand) wasn't very expensive, but I guess I don't really want to go the 
horrible freight route again - I'd like to get a really good set, have them 
work, last, and not start flopping around on me.

anyone have a recommendation? 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 14 15:17:15 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:17:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] Automatic TR3
In-Reply-To: <201002141700.18679.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201002141700.18679.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <2F8FAAA7C3A14441A9937EE9510EB083@ranteer.local>

curiously enough, some 6 or 8 months ago there was a tr3, in the austin 
area, with a 4 cyl/auto on craigslist.  for about $5k or $6k I think.  I had 
thought about buying it, because there was also another tr3 that needed a 
lot of work, but I think it might even have run.  I was considering buying 
the 2, and making one car.  but it sold, I bet to this guy, who thinks he 
has something special.

is that ford blue on the engine?  anyone know what engine that is?  I bet 
its like a pinto or something.  "lots of pep?"  yeah, sure.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 4:00 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Automatic TR3

> For all those of you who always wanted a TR3 with an automatic 
> transmission,
> your wait is over.
>
> See:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR3-convertible-roadster-restored-
> whole-
> parts_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c531ffa0aQQitemZ190373165578QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
>
> Not sure what he has for an engine but seems to be a lot of "cob jobs" in 
> that
> engine bay.
>
> Seller says worth up to 20K. Hmmmm.
>
> Bob

From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com  Sun Feb 14 15:41:09 2010
From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:41:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] Automatic TR3
In-Reply-To: <201002141700.18679.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201002141700.18679.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <323928807F0349AB990A4EF28875632C@aitinc.local>

Engine is a 2.0 or 2.3L Ford 4 cylinder commonly found in Pintos and the 
base Mustang.  If it is a 2.3 (and I think it is). then it would have been 
used in the Ranger pickups as well.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 4:00 PM
Subject: [TR] Automatic TR3


> For all those of you who always wanted a TR3 with an automatic 
> transmission,
> your wait is over.
>
> See:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR3-convertible-roadster-restored-
> whole-
> parts_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c531ffa0aQQitemZ190373165578QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
>
> Not sure what he has for an engine but seems to be a lot of "cob jobs" in 
> that
> engine bay.
>
> Seller says worth up to 20K. Hmmmm.
>
> Bob

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sun Feb 14 16:25:31 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 18:25:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Misc.  Items for Sale  (TR4A and Spitfire)
Message-ID: <4B78866B.8080205@gmail.com>

Hello,

Several years ago I bought a large group of parts from someone 
abandoning a TR4A restoration.  Most of them I've used on my own 
project, but I've a got some left and yesterday I got a surprise when 
the top that was in a box marked TR4A in four places appears to actually 
be a Spitfire top.  So, to fund the unexpected purchase of a TR4A top, 
I've got a few items to put up for sale.

Spitfire Top, White, Robbins #2209 for a 63-66 Spitfire (2209 is marked 
on the front of the top and it matches the description of a Spitfire 
top).  Brand new, never installed, but has been opened, hardware kit is 
included.  This is the top that fits over a lip at the front with the a 
slot for three metal pieces (not included) and an elastic strap on each 
side to hold it in place.  TRF lists this top for $359.10.  I'll sell it 
for $225.

TR4A Vinyl seat cover kit, Red.  New, still in unopened plastic bag.  
Marked "Made in England", sold by TRF.  This is the right kit for me, 
but I decided to go with leather.  TRF current price (Winter Sale) is 
$439.96.  I'll sell it for $290.

Finally, a used, aftermarket replacement dashboard for a TR4A.  This is 
not an original plywood dash, but a solid hardwood, I'm not sure what 
type, and is stained with a reddish tint.  The finish has a some minor 
flaws that would be corrected with a recoating with marine varnish, and 
the there is a horizontal crack in the wood in the thin part between the 
air vent and outside edge. Because of the condition, I'm asking $90.

I'll charge actual shipping.  If you don't like my price, make me an 
offer, but I think the prices I've stated are fair.

Please contact me off list if you're interested and I can provide 
pictures if desired.  Thanks, Ben......

-- 
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Sun Feb 14 16:30:09 2010
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:30:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1973 Triumph Stag on eBay
Message-ID: <4B788781.4080302@triumphstagclub.org>

Hello All,

Yeah, this is a shameless plug for my own car.

After driving "Uncle Jack" onto the enclosed FedEx trailer early Friday 
morning 12 February 2010, it is time for my own - "semi famous" Stag to 
go too, so I can make room for two other Triumphs (crazy? ... yeah!) and 
FINALLY start their restoration.

So, "IAN" is on the block, and many of you in North America who go to 
VTR and Triumphest have seen and heard this semi-famous Stag. I mean, 
how many other Triumph Stags in North America have been from mean Sea 
Level to 14,110 feet above sea level - and then with "uncle jack"?
I have had an absolute hoot of a time owning this Stag driving it 
literally coast-to-coast and border-to-border in the USA with no 
problems, over 65K miles.
Is it perfect? Get real, it is a Triumph that gets DRIVEN!!

Reserve price is fair (not the buy-it-now price) considering the 
condition and extreme reliability this car has provided me over the past 
7 years. But if you absolutely MUST have it now, just do the Buy-It-Now 
before anyone else bids and it's yours.  Be quick though because in the 
short 3 hours it has been listed, over 50 people have looked and 10 have 
marked it as a watched item.

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2440/3841267916_0157da6973_b.jpg[/img]

Yes in this image above if you can see it, that is "uncle jack" behind 
IAN on our way down from the Summit of Pikes Peak, - one of the photos 
on the Triumph TransAmerica group on Flickr.com

See IAN's eBay listing 1973 Triumph Stag on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250580765650
(cut-n-paste the above link if it does not show as a clickable URL)

If there there are questions, you know where to find me to ask them.

Thanks!
_________________________
Glenn A. Merrell
TTA North American Charity Drive 2009 Coordinator
TriumphStag.net admin
past Chair & Pres of TSC USA 2001-2009
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, 
dead bugs on the windshield, and the occasional

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Feb 15 17:37:32 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 19:37:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bummer Day - Lower Front Sealing Block
In-Reply-To: <FDAF043CF8704F04989DEA6132768753@CarlPC>
References: <0D.96.28245.B239F6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<FDAF043CF8704F04989DEA6132768753@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <86DBAF2C918C46D5A983CD0246C8A654@CarlPC>

Since the part is the lower front sealing block - I decided to take it out 
rather than attempt to fix it as it sat.

GLAD I DID

The sealing block was cracked - front to back through the bolt hole that was 
'stripped' on the side that was not visible when the pan was off.

So - now I am on a search for a replacement.  P/N 55810 not available 
through TRF; no listing at others.

Anyone have a 2-3-4 engine block carcass that might have one still sitting 
in it - or have a spare that they are willing to part with?

I do have a complete engine sitting in the corner of the garage - but I'd 
rather not have to cannibalize it.   I'd have to get one engine off the 
stand; put the other on; etc etc etc.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Bummer Day


> Thank you Randall, Tony & Michael for your responses.   Seems that it 
> isn't as big an issue as I thought. Will get a Helicoil (or equivalent as 
> Randall put it) this week.

From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com  Tue Feb 16 07:57:23 2010
From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 09:57:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 radiator recore
Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425271AEB6BF7@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>

Does anybody have any recommendations of shops or cost estimates for getting
an early style TR4 radiator recored?
I'm based in NJ but don't mind shipping it.

Thank you

Peter
201-571-8303

From blanoway at shaw.ca  Tue Feb 16 09:14:46 2010
From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 10:14:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
Message-ID: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>

I need to apologize first, and then ventwith the hope that it may help
other TRF customers avoid this situation.

I returned a set of carpets (worth in excess of $300) to TRF before
Christmas.  Six weeks later, and despite several phone calls, I still have
not had a refund applied to my credit card  a transaction that takes
minutes in almost all cases.

TRF (Level 2) claims that my refund is working its way through their
system  again, for a transaction that would take minutes with almost any
other vendor.  IMHO, this really translates to were using your cash to
finance our operations without your permission and were giving you a lame
excuse in return.

Im not sure why a 6 week wait for a refund is acceptable under any
circumstances.  Using someone elses cash this way may be good for your
finances, but bad for customer relations and retention; which should be even
more important in these hard times.  I hope that there arent too many of us
on this List financing their operations this way.

I have been a good and faithful TRF customer for years.  Im not sure that I
will continue to be so.

Thanks for the opportunity to vent  something I normally try to avoid doing
on the List.

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg, Canada

From allegrorover at mac.com  Tue Feb 16 10:19:05 2010
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 12:19:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
References: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
Message-ID: <3C3B05F3-FF7D-4476-8A28-B369349B4F28@mac.com>

Sorry for your problem.
I am not sticking up for TRF, I will say that I have had a great  
relationship with them oner the past several years.
I can only imagine that if you are using a bank in Canada CC, that  
might be the issue.
Again, not making excuses, but when I returned to the states after a 3  
year tour overseas I continued to use a CC from over there, it was  
great cause it would take an extra 2 or 3 weeks for them to convert  
and send the bill. Sometimes I would even make out with the exchange  
rate.
All that probably doesn't make you feel any better, just my experience.

Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 16 11:20:41 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 13:20:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
References: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
Message-ID: <91FC45A8DE864824A3BCA64BBA2403EE@BobPC>

I had a very similar experience a few years ago with a return to them. And 
in reading your post it sounds oh so familiar with the excuses they give. I 
ended up emailing a Mail List friend who knows the TRF gang personally to 
see if he could offer any suggestions. He actually ended up calling them on 
my behalf which got the credit processed.

It's one of the reasons I rarely use TRF anymore.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Brian Lanoway" <blanoway at shaw.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 11:14 AM
To: "Triumphs Digest" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice

> I need to apologize first, and then ventwith the hope that it may help
> other TRF customers avoid this situation.
>
> I returned a set of carpets (worth in excess of $300) to TRF before
> Christmas.  Six weeks later, and despite several phone calls, I still have
> not had a refund applied to my credit card  a transaction that takes
> minutes in almost all cases.
>
> TRF (Level 2) claims that my refund is working its way through their
> system  again, for a transaction that would take minutes with almost any
> other vendor.  IMHO, this really translates to were using your cash to
> finance our operations without your permission and were giving you a lame
> excuse in return.
>
> Im not sure why a 6 week wait for a refund is acceptable under any
> circumstances.  Using someone elses cash this way may be good for your
> finances, but bad for customer relations and retention; which should be 
> even
> more important in these hard times.  I hope that there arent too many of 
> us
> on this List financing their operations this way.
>
> I have been a good and faithful TRF customer for years.  Im not sure that 
> I
> will continue to be so.
>
> Thanks for the opportunity to vent  something I normally try to avoid 
> doing
> on the List.
>
> Brian Lanoway
> 1973 TR6
> Winnipeg, Canada
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Tue Feb 16 14:00:29 2010
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 13:00:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TRF business practice
Message-ID: <857847.47235.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

>I returned a set of carpets (worth in excess of $300) to TRF before
>Christmas.  Six weeks later, and despite several phone calls, I still have
>not had a refund applied to my credit card  a transaction that takes
>minutes
in almost all cases.

 
It's the float - and they're basically floating your
cash to their advantage.

It happened to me - and others on this list - in a
big way a few years back.  They were going through a horrible cash flow
period, but I felt used then and still remember it today.  So even though I
still buy from TRF - due to the fact that they help support our hobby - it's
for far less than I used to.

Joe 

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Tue Feb 16 14:53:41 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 16:53:41 EST
Subject: [TR] TRF Refunds
Message-ID: <15e99.7486677b.38ac6de5@aol.com>

Had a similar experience getting my card credited a few years back, but it 
took nearly six months.   I had to threaten to call the card folks to have 
them intervene but they finally came across.   One of several reasons I won't 
do business there anymore, either.
George

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Feb 16 16:01:26 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 18:01:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bummer Day - Lower Front Sealing Block - resolved
In-Reply-To: <86DBAF2C918C46D5A983CD0246C8A654@CarlPC>
References: <0D.96.28245.B239F6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<FDAF043CF8704F04989DEA6132768753@CarlPC>
	<86DBAF2C918C46D5A983CD0246C8A654@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <349942AE2758474288A60D55EF6D82CE@CarlPC>

Thanks to all who responded.   I was able to locate the replacement part and 
it is on its way.
Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Bummer Day - Lower Front Sealing Block


> Since the part is the lower front sealing block - I decided to take it out 
> rather than attempt to fix it as it sat.
>
> GLAD I DID
>
> The sealing block was cracked - front to back through the bolt hole that 
> was 'stripped' on the side that was not visible when the pan was off.
>
> So - now I am on a search for a replacement.  P/N 55810 not available 
> through TRF; no listing at others.
>
> Anyone have a 2-3-4 engine block carcass that might have one still sitting 
> in it - or have a spare that they are willing to part with?
>
> I do have a complete engine sitting in the corner of the garage - but I'd 
> rather not have to cannibalize it.   I'd have to get one engine off the 
> stand; put the other on; etc etc etc.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 8:02 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Bummer Day
>
>
>> Thank you Randall, Tony & Michael for your responses.   Seems that it 
>> isn't as big an issue as I thought. Will get a Helicoil (or equivalent as 
>> Randall put it) this week.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Feb 16 18:51:03 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 18:51:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <91FC45A8DE864824A3BCA64BBA2403EE@BobPC>
References: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
	<91FC45A8DE864824A3BCA64BBA2403EE@BobPC>
Message-ID: <363C750A297544FAB3CF07792CCA5960@bboffice>

Just curious, is there anyone from TRF customer service that monitors these
posts?  Do they ever respond to the list?

Personally, I have had good support from TRF.  The only problem I had was
with their supplier in England who mis-cut the rear bulkhead panel for my
TR3, it took several months for them to send it to England have it remade
and then returned.  I felt that any competent upholsterer in the states
could have taken care of the issue and saved them a lot of freight.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 11:21 AM
To: Brian Lanoway; Triumphs Digest
Subject: Re: [TR] TRF - poor business practice

I had a very similar experience a few years ago with a return to them. And
in reading your post it sounds oh so familiar with the excuses they give. I
ended up emailing a Mail List friend who knows the TRF gang personally to
see if he could offer any suggestions. He actually ended up calling them on
my behalf which got the credit processed.

It's one of the reasons I rarely use TRF anymore.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Brian Lanoway" <blanoway at shaw.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 11:14 AM
To: "Triumphs Digest" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice

> I need to apologize first, and then ventwith the hope that it may
> help other TRF customers avoid this situation.
>
> I returned a set of carpets (worth in excess of $300) to TRF before
> Christmas.  Six weeks later, and despite several phone calls, I still
> have not had a refund applied to my credit card  a transaction that
> takes minutes in almost all cases.
>
> TRF (Level 2) claims that my refund is working its way through their
> system  again, for a transaction that would take minutes with almost
> any other vendor.  IMHO, this really translates to were using your
> cash to finance our operations without your permission and were
> giving you a lame excuse in return.
>
> Im not sure why a 6 week wait for a refund is acceptable under any
> circumstances.  Using someone elses cash this way may be good for
> your finances, but bad for customer relations and retention; which
> should be even more important in these hard times.  I hope that there
> arent too many of us on this List financing their operations this
> way.
>
> I have been a good and faithful TRF customer for years.  Im not sure
> that I will continue to be so.
>
> Thanks for the opportunity to vent  something I normally try to avoid
> doing on the List.
>
> Brian Lanoway
> 1973 TR6
> Winnipeg, Canada
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Tue Feb 16 18:54:51 2010
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 01:54:51 -0000
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 radiator recore
In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425271AEB6BF7@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425271AEB6BF7@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
Message-ID: <4B663395.3070507@comcast.net>

I had my TR3 radiator recored by Able Radiator in Milwaukie Oregon. They
do custom radiators and also rebuild some really old stuff.
www.ableradiator.com. It's clear across the country so may not be the
best option, but I was pleased with the work. They gave me several
options regarding core construction. As I remember, it was <$300 to have
it recored last summer. If the cost had been higher, I would have
seriously considered one of the aluminum radiators that sometimes show
up on ebay.

Mike



Dachnowicz, Peter wrote:
> Does anybody have any recommendations of shops or cost estimates for getting
> an early style TR4 radiator recored?
> I'm based in NJ but don't mind shipping it.
>
> Thank you
>
> Peter
> 201-571-8303

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Tue Feb 16 19:35:50 2010
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:35:50 EST
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
Message-ID: <1f5b8.492d50ad.38acb006@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/16/2010 11:23:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
blanoway at shaw.ca writes:

I need  to apologize first, and then ventwith the hope that it may help
other TRF  customers avoid this situation.
 



I would applaud, encourage, second the motion a statement from Mark  
Bradakis that stated any bashing of suppliers while naming the supplier will  earn 
the writer an automatic six month suspension from this hallowed list.   I 
have had many bad business or quality issues with various British car  
suppliers but I refuse to sink to the childish level that we have just  read.  I 
have always chalked it up to experience.  I will be willing  to wager that 
TRF will be very happy without these basher's business.  
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

From thomas309 at aol.com  Tue Feb 16 19:37:03 2010
From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:37:03 EST
Subject: [TR] VTR NJ Triumph Clubs (RE: radiator recore)
Message-ID: <1e4a0.6451e246.38acb04f@aol.com>

NEW JERSEY  
    *   British Motor Club of Southern New Jersey
13 Fox  Hollow Drive, Cherry Hill, NJ 08003 
Ed Gaubert, Director,  609-751-7773 
    *   _Positive Earth  Driver's Club_ (http://www.pedc.org/) 
242 Sprucewood Drive 
Brick, NJ 08723  
Wayne Simpson, VTR liaison, e-mail _StagHunter at comcast.net_ 
(mailto:StagHunter at comcast.net) 
Phone  732-477-3878

    *   _New Jersey  Triumph Association_ (http://www.njtriumphs.org/) 
PO Box 6, Gillette, NJ 07933 
Jack  Brooks, President 
Joel Finger, Newsletter Co-Editor, 
Jerry Havel, _jhavel at eagle.org _ (mailto:jhavel at eagle.org) 

 
 
In a message dated 2/16/2010 8:54:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mlang99 at comcast.net writes:

I had my  TR3 radiator recored by Able Radiator in Milwaukie Oregon. They
do custom  radiators and also rebuild some really old stuff.
www.ableradiator.com.  It's clear across the country so may not be the
best option, but I was  pleased with the work. They gave me several
options regarding core  construction. As I remember, it was <$300 to have
it recored last  summer. If the cost had been higher, I would have
seriously considered one  of the aluminum radiators that sometimes show
up on  ebay.

Mike



Dachnowicz, Peter wrote:
> Does anybody  have any recommendations of shops or cost estimates for 
getting
> an  early style TR4 radiator recored?
> I'm based in NJ but don't mind  shipping it.
>
> Thank you
>
> Peter
>  201-571-8303
Suggested annual  donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as  thomas309 at aol.com

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 16 20:37:17 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 19:37:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] chicago swap meet
Message-ID: <612509.20060.qm@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Sorry but I misplaced the information some time back concerning the Illinois swap meet near, or in, chicago late in February.  I think it takes place on the last weekend.  Could someone inform me of when and where?

thanks!
gary n.

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Feb 16 20:47:34 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:47:34 -0600
Subject: [TR] chicago swap meet
References: <612509.20060.qm@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <355CD12C577F4D71ABC80320B3408188@trigeni.com>

Is this what you were referring to?

http://www.britishcarswap.info/

Captain Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 9:37 PM
Subject: [TR] chicago swap meet


> Sorry but I misplaced the information some time back concerning the 
> Illinois swap meet near, or in, chicago late in February.  I think it 
> takes place on the last weekend.  Could someone inform me of when and 
> where?
>
> thanks!
> gary n.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 16 21:15:44 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 20:15:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 radiator recore
In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425271AEB6BF7@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425271AEB6BF7@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
Message-ID: <CE4B04DFD5674F4B8259D0AE80660CD9@Meislaptop>

> Does anybody have any recommendations of shops or cost estimates for
> getting
> an early style TR4 radiator recored?
> I'm based in NJ but don't mind shipping it.

It's a standard operation, any competent radiator shop can handle it.  Mine
cost about $200, but that was a few years back.

If you were in the area, I'd recommend Mac's Radiator in Bellflower, CA; but
there's no sense in shipping from NJ.

Two options to consider :
1) Keep the crank hole
2) Use a modern filler neck

The crank hole reduces cooling by about 10% and costs extra; I left it out.

Using a modern filler neck cost me about $20 a few months ago (when I had
the TR3 radiator rodded out), and gives a much wider choice of caps &
pressure ratings (I now have a 10 psi cap with a lever to release the
pressure).

Just don't forget, and install an original cap!  (Local club member tried
that, and couldn't understand why he kept blowing up radiator hoses!)

Randall

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Tue Feb 16 22:15:52 2010
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 00:15:52 EST
Subject: [TR] TR4 radiator recore
Message-ID: <21fa8.52b2b506.38acd588@aol.com>

Peter, I've had very good luck with Grove Radiator in Neptune, (Asbury Park 
 area) NJ.  (732) 774-0197  Many  of our club members have also used them 
with similar  results.  Reasonable price and turnaround.  NFI.
 
 


Rodney Ford,  Brick, NJ
President, Positive Earth Drivers Club
TR4A IRS CTC 60536  L
TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612




Message: 2
Date:  Tue, 16 Feb 2010 09:57:23 -0500
From: "Dachnowicz, Peter"  <DACHNOWP at APTEA.com>
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 radiator recore
To:  "'triumphs at autox.team.net'"  <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
<2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425271AEB6BF7 at MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Does anybody have  any recommendations of shops or cost estimates for 
getting
an early style TR4  radiator recored?
I'm based in NJ but don't mind shipping it.

Thank  you

Peter
201-571-8303

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Tue Feb 16 22:33:19 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:33:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <1f5b8.492d50ad.38acb006@aol.com>
References: <1f5b8.492d50ad.38acb006@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001b01caaf92$b70cb5f0$252621d0$@rr.com>

Hi Lou & All,
I don't know what most of your backgrounds are, but I've worked in the
manufacturing/parts businesses for a very long time. The ugly stepchild that
no one wants to deal with is product returns, or "RMA's" for short.

The USA is a capitalistic country (even though Obama thinks he can change
that) that businesses prides itself on how much revenue it can bring in each
year. But, for every dollar that sales brings in, RMA's subtract from that.
While Fry's has selling RMA's into a big business, most companies write them
off, or have reserves set aside.

So, if you're running a business, and asking a bank to loan you money, what
do you promote, revenues or losses? TRF borrows money from anywhere they
can. Nothing wrong with that. Cash is King.

While I do agree that RMA's shouldn't take months, it does need to be
resolved in a "timely" manner, and that depends on the business. If Charles
has done his homework, then he knows how long Moss, VB and others take to
process an RMA. It's up to him to make the decision on how much effort his
company should spend to process an RMA. And based on that decision this list
can critique the right or wrong of it because it directly affects anyone who
buys from them.

The old adage of "let the buyer beware" may apply here, but wouldn't be
known unless a lister wrote about it.

Thanks!
Johnnie
A long-time TRF patron. And a Moss one, And a VB one, and a BPNW one, and
....


> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 6:36 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
>
> In a message dated 2/16/2010 11:23:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> blanoway at shaw.ca writes:
>
> I need  to apologize first, and then ventwith the hope that it may
> help
> other TRF  customers avoid this situation.
>
>
>
>
> I would applaud, encourage, second the motion a statement from Mark
> Bradakis that stated any bashing of suppliers while naming the supplier
> will  earn
> the writer an automatic six month suspension from this hallowed list.
> I
> have had many bad business or quality issues with various British car
> suppliers but I refuse to sink to the childish level that we have just
> read.  I
> have always chalked it up to experience.  I will be willing  to wager
> that
> TRF will be very happy without these basher's business.
>
> Lou Metelko
> Auburn, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as pdonnel1 at san.rr.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Feb 17 01:34:52 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 00:34:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] UHS
Message-ID: <a06240800c7a15a05f7ec@[192.168.2.2]>

Unintended Honking Syndrome, on our 1970 TR6, pushing or pulling on 
the steering wheel causes the horn to honk, not too often at first, 
but getting to be very annoying and embarrassing.  I have heard there 
is a supposedly simple fix, but can't find any reference.

Any tips appreciated.

-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
anabil007 at comcast.net
Wallace, CA

From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Wed Feb 17 04:21:21 2010
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 03:21:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Copper vs Aluminum radiator
Message-ID: <33988.63795.qm@web83501.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I had my TR radiator rebuilt and noticed an aluminum/plastic job on one of my Volvos. Got that replaced with a rebuilt copper job which can be repaired/rebuilt. Radiator men love copper because they can work on it. They just don't see much of it anymore.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Feb 17 06:19:54 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 08:19:54 EST
Subject: [TR] UHS
Message-ID: <36df.50eaa993.38ad46fa@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/17/2010 2:38:18 AM Central Standard Time, 
anabil007 at comcast.net writes: 
> Unintended Honking Syndrome, on our 1970 TR6, pushing or pulling on 
> the steering wheel causes the horn to honk, not too often at first, 
> but getting to be very annoying and embarrassing.  I have heard there 
> is a supposedly simple fix, but can't find any reference.
> 

Wow, either you're up really late or you're up really early.

The most common cause of this syndrome is the plastic sleeve for the carbon 
bush that contacts the slip ring.  This sleeve inserts through the steering 
wheel under the horn push and keeps the carbon bush from contacting the 
steering wheel electrically but the plastic degrades over time and crumbles 
away.  This allows the bush to contact the steering wheel completing the 
circuit and sounding the horn.

Pop off the horn push and you will see it right there.  Moss lists it as PN 
560-430 at $8.95 retail.  TRF part number 143760.

Enjoy.

Dave

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Wed Feb 17 06:27:34 2010
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 08:27:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - Part 1
In-Reply-To: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
References: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
Message-ID: <15BE0B33-AF43-4F82-8B85-A37C309E3C0C@blakedischer.com>

On Feb 16, 2010, at 11:14 AM, Brian Lanoway wrote:
I have been a good and faithful TRF customer for years.  Im not sure that I
will continue to be so.


Hi Brian,

I hope you will continue to buy from TRF.  And Moss.  And VB.  And all the
other vendors that provide quality parts for our hobby.  Believe me, I totally
understand your frustration at the length of time it's taking to get your
refund from TRF, but I wanted to present, for everyone's benefit, some of the
things these vendors do for us, with a specific nod to TRF since that's who
were talking about.

I just checked to see if you were a member of The Vintage Triumph Register
here in the States.  Since you aren't, you probably don't know that Charles
attends every VTR National Convention with a boat load of parts he sells in
the vendor area.  At the past convention, he drove his TR3 from Pennsylvania
to California and had boxes and boxes of parts shipped ahead.  At the end of
the convention, he boxed it all up, shipped it back, and drove his TR3 back to
PA.  After shipping costs (these were pallets!), I doubt he made a dime for
his efforts.  But he does it year after year.

He is a maniac about authenticity and quality of the parts he sells.  He'd
rather backorder an item for a year while he's locating another supplier, than
ship questionable parts.  You can pretty much count on his parts being what
you expected.  He sends out a weekly (!) newsletter with discount offers.  If
you aren't in a hurry to complete your project, you could probably get
everything you needed for a project at a discount by just waiting for a sale.


---breaking for the list's imposed limit on post size--

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Wed Feb 17 06:42:06 2010
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 08:42:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - Part 2
In-Reply-To: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
References: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
Message-ID: <CD0E244E-7E2F-4CA2-9526-DA895CF132BB@blakedischer.com>

----continuing from part one-------

TRF is, aside from Rimmer Brothers in the UK, the only major US vendor to use
the original Triumph part numbers.  For those of us with Stags, who count on
these numbers to discover parts for other models that cross to the Stag.  Or
Dolomite.  Or 2000 range.  Cars for which no major US supplier stocks a large
number of parts.

Before leaving Detroit in my TR6 for California last October, I installed a
new interior.  It was purchased from TRF. Everything fit, looked original, and
my car was gorgeous once again.  All good, but my point is that Charles makes
sure it fits, makes sure it looks authentic.

He is one of the few suppliers with machine shop capabilities and will rebuild
calipers, hubs, etc.  If I have a choice between "Joe's Machine Shop" down the
street or TRF to rebuild my hubs, you can bet I'll send them to TRF because
they know what they're doing and have done British car repairs again and
again.

In conclusion, I agree, taking this long to get you your money back is poor
business.  But I wanted to let others know what TRF does well... very well.
Charles cares deeply about our hobby and shares our passion for these cars.
If I had to guess, I'd say he's been impacted by the downturn as all of us
have.  I know that doesn't help you get your money back though.

Instead of adding to the tired litany of those adding to the TRF bashing, let
me instead offer a helpful suggestion.  I'd suggest a telephone call directly
to Charles followed by an email.  I'll bet your issue will be resolved
quickly.  Many don't realize he's there every day and is only a phone call
away.

Cheers,
Blake Discher, President

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Wed Feb 17 07:03:29 2010
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 06:03:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TRF bashing - here we go again!
Message-ID: <840399.48946.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Lou... Read the posts again!  

The trials and tribulations of TRF been
well documented and debated here for years.  Yes, sometimes it has been
bashing, over the top, and unnecessary.  It wasn't the case in this instance,
but the original poster may have been someone new to Triumphs and the TRF
return game.  So this 24 year customer - who's spent THOUSANDS with TRF -
reserves the right to tell my story and relay anything helpful I can to him.
So back off and stop trying to become the list police.  

Is this the place
for unnecessary bashing without cause?  Absolutely no way.   The place for
truthful sharing of Triumph experiences of all kinds.  Yes.

Joe Merone
CF18928
South Burlington, VT 
 


>any bashing of suppliers while naming the
supplier will  earn 
>the writer an automatic six month suspension from this
hallowed list.

snip

>I refuse to sink to the childish level that we have
just  read.  I 
>have always chalked it up to experience.  I will be willing 
to wager that 
>TRF will be very happy without these basher's business. 
>Lou Metelko
>Auburn, Indiana

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Wed Feb 17 07:19:53 2010
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 09:19:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <1f5b8.492d50ad.38acb006@aol.com>
References: <1f5b8.492d50ad.38acb006@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B7BFB09.9080608@earthlink.net>

I respectfully disagree. 

There is nothing wrong with calling out a vendor for shoddy service or 
parts.  As a matter of fact it is a service to the whole community.  
I've been saved many a dollar in the Italian car world from both brick 
and mortar and Fleabay stores from these types of warnings.  Deal with 
the company first then tell your story.  Not a thing wrong with that.  
Mark can of course do what he wishes since it is his list, but I for one 
would find this list far less worth while without peoples real world 
experiences.

Now in the case of TRF I've had refunds take way to long also.  As a 
matter of fact, this email string prompted me to call TRF about a refund 
I hadn't seen yet!  One thing the guys at TRF did tell me; if you tell 
them (or even hint I assume) you will be placing another order soon they 
will hold off and apply the refund to the next order.  And on the up 
side I find most of their parts to be the closest to original as possible.

Oh, and in this economy I seriously doubt any supplier would be happy 
losing customers.  Just look at Victoria British's parent company.

Joe Burlein



Loumetelko at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/16/2010 11:23:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> blanoway at shaw.ca writes:
>
> I need  to apologize first, and then ventwith the hope that it may help
> other TRF  customers avoid this situation.
>  
>
>
>
> I would applaud, encourage, second the motion a statement from Mark  
> Bradakis that stated any bashing of suppliers while naming the supplier will  earn 
> the writer an automatic six month suspension from this hallowed list.   I 
> have had many bad business or quality issues with various British car  
> suppliers but I refuse to sink to the childish level that we have just  read.  I 
> have always chalked it up to experience.  I will be willing  to wager that 
> TRF will be very happy without these basher's business.  
>  
> Lou Metelko
> Auburn, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Wed Feb 17 07:21:40 2010
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 09:21:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - Part 2
In-Reply-To: <CD0E244E-7E2F-4CA2-9526-DA895CF132BB@blakedischer.com>
References: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
	<CD0E244E-7E2F-4CA2-9526-DA895CF132BB@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <867B36CE-4988-428C-9DA6-D070D9DA2AE4@blakedischer.com>

On Feb 17, 2010, at 8:42 AM, Blake J. Discher wrote:
Blake Discher, President



Hi again,

Laughing at myself...
In my post, I attempted to delete my corporate auto-signature, Blake Discher,
President, (next line) Firefly Studios, Detroit.  I see I left "President" in.
Well, if Obama gets tired of it all, I guess I can take over!  ;)

Cheers,

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Wed Feb 17 07:40:43 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 09:40:43 EST
Subject: [TR] TRF - Part 2
Message-ID: <5d8d.6a932865.38ad59eb@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/17/2010 9:25:24 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com writes:

Laughing at myself...
In my post, I attempted to delete my corporate  auto-signature, Blake 
Discher,
President, (next line) Firefly Studios,  Detroit.  I see I left "President" 
in.
Well, if Obama gets tired of it  all, I guess I can take over!  ;)


Blake,
You have my official backing!  Discher for President in  2012!  Amen, on 
your post about the good things TRF adds to our  hobby.  I might add that 
Charles supports VTR by providing a process by  which TRF will pay your VTR 
dues.  He also sponsors in part VTR's annual  Ken Richardson Challenge Trophy 
awarded at VTR's North American Triumph  Challenge each year.  TRF also 
supports TRA and 6-PACK in  significant ways. He and his company despite any flaws 
are a tremendous  asset to keeping our Triumphs on the road and keeping our 
hobby  going. 
Darrell

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Feb 17 08:49:00 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 10:49:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] UHS
Message-ID: <20100217104900.AJX85307@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Dave Massey wrote:
> In a message...anabil007 at comcast.net writes: 
> > Unintended Honking Syndrome, on our 1970 TR6
> Wow, either you're up really late or you're up really early.

Probably couldn't sleep through all the horn honking.
--
Jim Muller

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Feb 17 09:40:24 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 09:40:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRF - Part 2 No Bashing here...
In-Reply-To: <CD0E244E-7E2F-4CA2-9526-DA895CF132BB@blakedischer.com>
References: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
	<CD0E244E-7E2F-4CA2-9526-DA895CF132BB@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <003D427273CE483383D181BE761C3299@bboffice>

Blake, since you brought it up....

Speaking of original part numbers, and I really appreciate the ability to
search this way at TRF when I know them, is there is good cross-reference
database anywhere that will help the LBC neophyte to find out what these
are?  I have the manual on CD, $20 on eBay, and it helps a bit but I see
other numbers going across the list that I have no idea where they got this
valuable info.  A Moss-to-Triumph cross ref would be nice too!

The most recent example was my search for a replacement gear for my wiper
motor.  I found nothing using the numbers that I have access to, but as soon
as I asked the list John Seim shot back "take a look at this item on eBay"
(I love this list!).  But I don't know where he got the data to help me out,
it is the right part still in the Lucas box but the number is foreign to
anything I have.

Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Blake J. Discher
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2010 6:42 AM
To: Brian Lanoway; Triumphs Digest
Subject: [TR] TRF - Part 2

----continuing from part one-------

TRF is, aside from Rimmer Brothers in the UK, the only major US vendor to
use the original Triumph part numbers.  For those of us with Stags, who
count on these numbers to discover parts for other models that cross to the
Stag.  Or Dolomite.  Or 2000 range.  Cars for which no major US supplier
stocks a large number of parts.

Before leaving Detroit in my TR6 for California last October, I installed a
new interior.  It was purchased from TRF. Everything fit, looked original,
and my car was gorgeous once again.  All good, but my point is that Charles
makes sure it fits, makes sure it looks authentic.

He is one of the few suppliers with machine shop capabilities and will
rebuild calipers, hubs, etc.  If I have a choice between "Joe's Machine
Shop" down the street or TRF to rebuild my hubs, you can bet I'll send them
to TRF because they know what they're doing and have done British car
repairs again and again.

In conclusion, I agree, taking this long to get you your money back is poor
business.  But I wanted to let others know what TRF does well... very well.
Charles cares deeply about our hobby and shares our passion for these cars.
If I had to guess, I'd say he's been impacted by the downturn as all of us
have.  I know that doesn't help you get your money back though.

Instead of adding to the tired litany of those adding to the TRF bashing,
let me instead offer a helpful suggestion.  I'd suggest a telephone call
directly to Charles followed by an email.  I'll bet your issue will be
resolved quickly.  Many don't realize he's there every day and is only a
phone call away.

Cheers,
Blake Discher, President
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Wed Feb 17 10:00:59 2010
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:00:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - Part 2 No Bashing here...
In-Reply-To: <003D427273CE483383D181BE761C3299@bboffice>
References: <7CCDF194CAD24C8687775AA07E3F2613@Lanowaylaptop>
	<CD0E244E-7E2F-4CA2-9526-DA895CF132BB@blakedischer.com>
	<003D427273CE483383D181BE761C3299@bboffice>
Message-ID: <AD527B89-16E8-4322-9BF3-9F1C31EA692B@blakedischer.com>

On Feb 17, 2010, at 11:40 AM, <wbeech at flash.net> <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
But I don't know where he got the data to help me out,
it is the right part still in the Lucas box but the number is foreign to
anything I have.



Hi Bill,

Yes, this list is a great resource, guys like Randall, Bob Danielson, Dave
Massey, George Hahn, Andy Mace, etc.  These guys are brilliant and must have
every book, parts directory, microfiche, etc, ever created.  When I need
genuine part numbers, I go to TRF's Blue or Green books, or Rimmer's website.
Rimmer's page for what your describing begins here:
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006821 and continues on a second page.
Sometimes it's hard to figure out how to get to the next page on Rimmer's
site, but eventually I figure it out. If all else fails, Randall is usually
the man.  I think he also has the McMaster Carr catalog memorized!  <grin>

Cheers,

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Wed Feb 17 10:48:16 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:48:16 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Wheel Hub
Message-ID: <cfac.10af690b.38ad85e0@aol.com>

A friend wishes to install a wood-rim steering wheel on his 1960 TR3A, 
while retaining the stock horn and turn signal switch locations.   Moss Motors 
offers an adaptor for a non-adjustable column only; his is adjustable.   Does 
anyone know a source for an adaptor hub for an adjustable TR3A column?
Thanks for any help.
George

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Wed Feb 17 11:23:33 2010
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:23:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Wheel Hub
In-Reply-To: <cfac.10af690b.38ad85e0@aol.com>
References: <cfac.10af690b.38ad85e0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU111-W5C653A78E3CCD1A995EA4B9480@phx.gbl>

George-



Have your friend look at the MotoLita website - they do list an adjustable hub
for the original control head.  Might just be worth a direct call to Moss or
Roadster Factory and I think you could be set up.



Randy
64 TR4

59 TR3A


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/

From trstreep at sbcglobal.net  Wed Feb 17 12:26:31 2010
From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 13:26:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <KIEHKFKPJNJONEIJGKEDCEPNDLAA.trstreep@sbcglobal.net>

Greetings Triumphistae,
	I'm doing a story for the VTR magazine on a guy who ordered a new 1962 TR4
from a dealer on Van Ness Blvd. in San Francisco. Are there listers who know
offhand the name of the dealership?

TIA
Bob Streepy [TR6 & TR4]
TVT Assoc. Editor

From tkeefover at gmail.com  Wed Feb 17 13:14:17 2010
From: tkeefover at gmail.com (Terry Keefover)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 15:14:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <KIEHKFKPJNJONEIJGKEDCEPNDLAA.trstreep@sbcglobal.net>
References: <KIEHKFKPJNJONEIJGKEDCEPNDLAA.trstreep@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <e8df35741002171214w2f101bbbw953ae30a51be956@mail.gmail.com>

Try British Motor Car
901 Van Ness
Avenue<http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=car+dealers+Van+Ness
+Blvd+san+francisco,+ca&fb=1&gl=us&hq=car+dealers&hnear=Van+Ness+Blvd+san+fra
ncisco,+ca&ei=C0x8S7b7CIaWtge-_7SeBQ&sa=X&oi=local_group&ct=image&resnum=1&ve
d=0CCEQtgMwAA>
San Francisco, CA
94109<http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=car+dealers+Van+Ness+
Blvd+san+francisco,+ca&fb=1&gl=us&hq=car+dealers&hnear=Van+Ness+Blvd+san+fran
cisco,+ca&ei=C0x8S7b7CIaWtge-_7SeBQ&sa=X&oi=local_group&ct=image&resnum=1&ved
=0CCEQtgMwAA>

Get
Directions<http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=car+dealers+Van+
Ness+Blvd+san+francisco,+ca&fb=1&gl=us&hq=car+dealers&hnear=Van+Ness+Blvd+san
+francisco,+ca&ei=C0x8S7b7CIaWtge-_7SeBQ&sa=X&oi=local_group&ct=image&resnum=
1&ved=0CCEQtgMwAA>
(415) 776-7700
* approximate times
bmcd.com<http://maps.google.com/local_url?q=http://www.bmcd.com/&dq=car+deale
rs&hl=en&ie=UTF8&fb=1&gl=us&ei=WUx8S7XzCqDoygTU3uGTBQ&ved=0CCEQtgMwAA&radius=
0.9&jsv=206b&sll=37.784435,-122.427006&sspn=0.013346,0.033023&rq=1&mpnum=1000
&ev=p&vps=4&z=16&output=js&abauth=599dd41f:47ukWwGGlMfcLfSp7b7S_N3Xpk0&absinc
e=231&oi=miw&sa=X&ct=miw_link&cd=1&cad=homepage,cid:16678798621142668480&s=AN
YYN7niICunK7QHxIte5EZRXAPCHrh79g>

This is where my '73 TR6 was delivered from the UK.

Terry K
'73 & '76 TR6

On Wed, Feb 17, 2010 at 2:26 PM, Bob Streepy <trstreep at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Greetings Triumphistae,
>        I'm doing a story for the VTR magazine on a guy who ordered a new
> 1962 TR4
> from a dealer on Van Ness Blvd. in San Francisco. Are there listers who
> know
> offhand the name of the dealership?
>
> TIA
> Bob Streepy [TR6 & TR4]
> TVT Assoc. Editor
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as tkeefover at gmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From L1J1S at aol.com  Wed Feb 17 15:40:13 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 17:40:13 EST
Subject: [TR] TR- chapter 2- NOS
Message-ID: <165cb.4183b447.38adca4d@aol.com>

Well i refunded the money and cost of postage to the fellow who brought the 
 timing chain from me on ebay. maybe i should have listed the part as being 
 NORS,not NOS. the bottom line is that i want to maintain my credit with 
ebay  which is 100%. the buyer complained upon receiving the package about the 
product  and asked me to please refund the money and postage and in return 
he would mail  back the item to me. i did say that there are no returns in 
the listing, but  perhaps i was wrong in the way i listed the item. the part 
sold for $5.00 and i  was not going to lose sleep over it. the buyer being 
from the Netherlands now  does not want to send back the part, because he now 
realizes the cost of return  shipping. the point here is that i have gone 
all out with this fellow to be  accommodating , but now he wants to back out 
of the deal and just send me the  money for the timing chain.. what should i 
do?  larry  schwartz

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Feb 17 15:41:28 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 17:41:28 EST
Subject: [TR] UHS
Message-ID: <16870.6b0c4cb.38adca98@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/17/2010 9:55:11 AM Central Standard Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> Dave Massey wrote:
> >In a message...anabil007 at comcast.net writes: 
> >>Unintended Honking Syndrome, on our 1970 TR6
> >Wow, either you're up really late or you're up really early.
> 
> Probably couldn't sleep through all the horn honking.
> --
> Jim Muller
> 

Yeah.  It's keeping the coyotes awake.

Dave

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Feb 17 15:51:08 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 15:51:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] UHS
In-Reply-To: <36df.50eaa993.38ad46fa@cs.com>
References: <36df.50eaa993.38ad46fa@cs.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461002171451o4a868e1dq7f1bb456a359007c@mail.gmail.com>

On 2/17/10, Dave1massey at cs.com <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> The most common cause of this syndrome is the plastic sleeve for the carbon
> bush that contacts the slip ring....
>
> ...Pop off the horn push and you will see it right there.  Moss lists it as PN
> 560-430 at $8.95 retail.  TRF part number 143760.


Was I dreaming or did someone here report making an excellent
replacement for this sleeve using a Bic pen?

Possibly some guy named McGruder or MacGeever or such?

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Feb 17 15:55:42 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 15:55:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tucson British Car Roundup
Message-ID: <3b0049461002171455y2a9a8b8cx1d65c628ddffefe@mail.gmail.com>

If any list members will be attending the Tucson British Car Roundup
later this month I hope they will let me know so I can make a point of
getting together with them.

http://tucsonbritish.com/Roundup.aspx

Mid-70s in the desert and 10' of snow on Mt Lemmon -- we plan to drive
in both so there'll be something for everyone.

Geo

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Feb 17 15:58:27 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 16:58:27 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR- chapter 2- NOS
Message-ID: <1503917678.394207.1266447507119.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>

Larry,

If it was me (and I have sold many items on Ebay) I would advise him to send me the check for the item with the understanding that he will leave positive feedback that you have done everything to accomadate him including refunding his money and the shipping which you stated in the listing you would not do.

Good luck.........Craig

On Feb 17, 2010, L1J1S at aol.com wrote: 

Well i refunded the money and cost of postage to the fellow who brought the 
timing chain from me on ebay. maybe i should have listed the part as being 
NORS,not NOS. the bottom line is that i want to maintain my credit with 
ebay which is 100%. the buyer complained upon receiving the package about the 
product and asked me to please refund the money and postage and in return 
he would mail back the item to me. i did say that there are no returns in 
the listing, but perhaps i was wrong in the way i listed the item. the part 
sold for $5.00 and i was not going to lose sleep over it. the buyer being 
from the Netherlands now does not want to send back the part, because he now 
realizes the cost of return shipping. the point here is that i have gone 
all out with this fellow to be accommodating , but now he wants to back out 
of the deal and just send me the money for the timing chain.. what should i 
do? larry schwartz
Suggested annual donation $11.47


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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Feb 17 15:58:57 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 17:58:57 EST
Subject: [TR] UHS
Message-ID: <1711b.197a548.38adceb1@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/17/2010 4:53:36 PM Central Standard Time, 
ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes: 
> On 2/17/10, Dave1massey at cs.com <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> >The most common cause of this syndrome is the plastic sleeve for the 
> carbon
> >bush that contacts the slip ring....
> >
> >...Pop off the horn push and you will see it right there.  Moss lists it 
> as PN
> >560-430 at $8.95 retail.  TRF part number 143760.
> 
> 
> Was I dreaming or did someone here report making an excellent
> replacement for this sleeve using a Bic pen?
> 
> Possibly some guy named McGruder or MacGeever or such?
> 

I dunno, wouldn't all that ink stain the carpets or something?

Oh, and the last time I saw that guy he was jumping through some sort of 
hole in the wall.

Dave

PS: I heard the same thing.  Worth a try.

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Feb 17 16:16:07 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 16:16:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR- chapter 2- NOS
In-Reply-To: <165cb.4183b447.38adca4d@aol.com>
References: <165cb.4183b447.38adca4d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <92C1511F2A7C4EEDA0496C7E43045F86@joepentiumnew>

For 5 bucks, it is hardly worth the hassle.  If it were me, I would tell him
to pitch it anc call it even.

That is one reason I avoid EBAY like the plague.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2010 3:40 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR- chapter 2- NOS

Well i refunded the money and cost of postage to the fellow who brought the 
 timing chain from me on ebay. maybe i should have listed the part as being 
 NORS,not NOS. the bottom line is that i want to maintain my credit with 
ebay  which is 100%. the buyer complained upon receiving the package about
the 
product  and asked me to please refund the money and postage and in return 
he would mail  back the item to me. i did say that there are no returns in 
the listing, but  perhaps i was wrong in the way i listed the item. the part

sold for $5.00 and i  was not going to lose sleep over it. the buyer being 
from the Netherlands now  does not want to send back the part, because he
now 
realizes the cost of return  shipping. the point here is that i have gone 
all out with this fellow to be  accommodating , but now he wants to back out

of the deal and just send me the  money for the timing chain.. what should i

do?  larry  schwartz
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb 17 16:33:14 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 18:33:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- chapter 2- NOS
In-Reply-To: <165cb.4183b447.38adca4d@aol.com>
References: <165cb.4183b447.38adca4d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <147C655EF2EF4A4EA8E00C78FA57DDDA@BobPC>

It's a Catch-22 with the way eBay let's sellers and buyers post feedback. I 
guess it depends on how badly you want to keep your feedback at 100%. It 
might even be worth telling him to keep the chain given its low value. I'm 
in a situation where someone bought $200 of interior panels from me and 
never paid or responded to multiple polite emails. I finally sent it to eBay 
as an unpaid item dispute which got him to pay. I figure, if I'm lucky, 
he'll leave me neutral feedback even though I left him positive. I've got 
100% feedback that I want to keep but it only takes one buyer to screw you.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2010 5:40 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR- chapter 2- NOS

> Well i refunded the money and cost of postage to the fellow who brought 
> the
> timing chain from me on ebay. maybe i should have listed the part as being
> NORS,not NOS. the bottom line is that i want to maintain my credit with
> ebay  which is 100%. the buyer complained upon receiving the package about 
> the
> product  and asked me to please refund the money and postage and in return
> he would mail  back the item to me. i did say that there are no returns in
> the listing, but  perhaps i was wrong in the way i listed the item. the 
> part
> sold for $5.00 and i  was not going to lose sleep over it. the buyer being
> from the Netherlands now  does not want to send back the part, because he 
> now
> realizes the cost of return  shipping. the point here is that i have gone
> all out with this fellow to be  accommodating , but now he wants to back 
> out
> of the deal and just send me the  money for the timing chain.. what should 
> i
> do?  larry  schwartz
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 17 17:47:09 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 16:47:09 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR- chapter 2- NOS
In-Reply-To: <165cb.4183b447.38adca4d@aol.com>
References: <165cb.4183b447.38adca4d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <36B8576D8ACE4197BCD7C94162028373@jdnet.deere.com>

> now he wants to 
> back out of the deal and just send me the  money for the 
> timing chain.. what should i do?  larry  schwartz

IMO, simply accept that you cannot please all the people all the time, and
take the hit to your feedback rating.

Any reasonable future buyer should understand that, so any rating over say,
95% is effectively 100%, IMO.

By offering to refund both the purchase price and shipping one way; you've
already gone farther than what the buyer agreed to when he bid on your
auction.  If he doesn't want to return it for a refund, that's his business.
And likely, no matter what you do, he is going to leave you negative
feedback.  Even if you refund his money and let him keep the chain, he could
still ding you.

Seems to me that eBay is spiraling downhill; I don't use it nearly as much
as I used to.  Do they no longer have the feature where you can respond to
negative (or neutral) feedback ?

-- Randall  

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Feb 17 18:45:33 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 19:45:33 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR- chapter 2- NOS
Message-ID: <531140740.406004.1266457533464.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>

Ah, a question from Randall, and an answer.  What Ebay has done in the past year is migrate the power of feedback into the buyers side and taken it away from the seller.  I don't understand why, but this is where they are headed.  It is making small sellers like myself and Larry to take a hit when the seller did not agree to the contract when they won the sale.

>From what I read on the forums, sellers on Ebay are not happy about it and have written and blogged themselves to death, but nothing has changed.

I have never had a bad transaction either as a seller or buyer on Ebay.  I always use PayPal so at least if there is an issue, I can take it up with them.

Just my two cents Randall for all the great responses you provide to everyone on the list.

Craig
Vienna, VA
1972 Triumph TR6

On Feb 17, 2010, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote: 

> now he wants to 
> back out of the deal and just send me the  money for the 
> timing chain.. what should i do?  larry  schwartz

IMO, simply accept that you cannot please all the people all the time, and
take the hit to your feedback rating.

Any reasonable future buyer should understand that, so any rating over say,
95% is effectively 100%, IMO.

By offering to refund both the purchase price and shipping one way; you've
already gone farther than what the buyer agreed to when he bid on your
auction.  If he doesn't want to return it for a refund, that's his business.
And likely, no matter what you do, he is going to leave you negative
feedback.  Even if you refund his money and let him keep the chain, he could
still ding you.

Seems to me that eBay is spiraling downhill; I don't use it nearly as much
as I used to.  Do they no longer have the feature where you can respond to
negative (or neutral) feedback ?

-- Randall  
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Feb 17 23:42:59 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 23:42:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <1f5b8.492d50ad.38acb006@aol.com>
References: <1f5b8.492d50ad.38acb006@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B7CE173.9020509@bradakis.com>

> I would applaud, encourage, second the motion a statement from Mark  
> Bradakis that stated any bashing of suppliers while naming the supplier will  earn 
> the writer an automatic six month suspension from this hallowed list.   

I wouldn't go to that extreme.  I'd just double their subscription rate ;-)


mjb.

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Thu Feb 18 02:27:30 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 10:27:30 +0100
Subject: [TR] UHS
Message-ID: <9792AE52512F49CFB6F5E4A36CA6EC67@Study>

Aplolgies for having posted this before but it might be useful.


I put up with this problem for a few years but after adopting the following
rather inelegant solution about 20 years ago the horns have worked perfectly
ever since.
First I made a new plunger thingy. Took the carbon rod from a dry battery
which fitted well into the barrel of an old pen of correct diameter.  Took a
very light compression spring, same one from the old ballpoint, I think. Cut
two pieces 10 mm or so from the carbon rod and glued them to the spring.
They fitted into a piece of the ballpoint barrel cut to the appropriate
length.
Voila! A new plunger thingy.
Next I ground the teeth off an old hacksaw blade and bolted a suitable
length of it to the master cylinders bracket so that the flat bore down on
the upper part of the steering column.
Encore Voila! A perfect earth. No need to fiddle with bits of wire over the
UJ's or steering rack.

HTH, ATB

David Brister, 1967 TR4A (now in it's 30th year with me, and like me feeling
it's age.)



--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 3998 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Feb 18 05:32:52 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 07:32:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - Part 2
References: <5d8d.6a932865.38ad59eb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <988A17103B4E4A3E908925C7E4FB4B15@userb38463fba5>

Blake, Darrell and others.

I have never had a bad experience with TRF in the almost 30+ years that I've 
dealt with them. Have they gone thru some tough times, yes they have and 
that's when we needed to support them the most. Does Charles give back to 
those of us who own and enjoy our cars, yes he has and I appreciate what 
he's done. As far as the issue regarding returns that started this whole 
discussion I can only conclude that there is another side to the story 
that's not been told and doesn't need to be told in this forum.
Have I always purchased from TRF? No but I can say I've done most of my 
business with them and will continue to do so.

We need TRF and the things that they do for our hobby.

JVV 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Feb 18 05:55:43 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 07:55:43 EST
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
Message-ID: <2430.2e985c52.38ae92cf@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/18/2010 12:39:37 AM Central Standard Time, 
mark at bradakis.com writes: 
> >I would applaud, encourage, second the motion a statement from Mark  
> >Bradakis that stated any bashing of suppliers while naming the supplier 
> will  earn 
> >the writer an automatic six month suspension from this hallowed list.   
> 
> I wouldn't go to that extreme.  I'd just double their subscription rate 
> ;-)

If anyone wants to bash me and send Mark $22.94, feel free to do so.

Dave

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Thu Feb 18 06:15:15 2010
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:15:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <2430.2e985c52.38ae92cf@cs.com>
References: <2430.2e985c52.38ae92cf@cs.com>
Message-ID: <f99bbf591002180515n764d2f6as8a6979189f66ba0a@mail.gmail.com>

Bash Dave?  Man that's going to take some thinking..........ok, how about
this:

Dave, you've taken WAY to long to get that TR3 finished and on the
road.......seems like you could have had it done a long time ago, what
a slackard   :)

Ok, done with the bashing, now I'll go and make a payment to Team.net.

Now, do I feel better for bashing Dave?  NOPE because he is doing a
LOT better than I am in getting projects done!

Morning Dave!


Brad
(to many projects to think about)



On Thu, Feb 18, 2010 at 7:55 AM,  <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 2/18/2010 12:39:37 AM Central Standard Time,
> mark at bradakis.com writes:
>> >I would applaud, encourage, second the motion a statement from Mark
>> >Bradakis that stated any bashing of suppliers while naming the supplier
>> will  earn
>> >the writer an automatic six month suspension from this hallowed list.
>>
>> I wouldn't go to that extreme.  I'd just double their subscription rate
>> ;-)
>
> If anyone wants to bash me and send Mark $22.94, feel free to do so.
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as bkahler1 at gmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Feb 18 06:24:54 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:24:54 EST
Subject: [TR] UHS
Message-ID: <2df8.42d3594b.38ae99a6@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/18/2010 3:27:48 AM Central Standard Time, 
david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes: 
> First I made a new plunger thingy. Took the carbon rod from a dry battery
> which fitted well into the barrel of an old pen of correct diameter.  Took 
> a
> very light compression spring, same one from the old ballpoint, I think. 
> Cut
> two pieces 10 mm or so from the carbon rod and glued them to the spring.
> They fitted into a piece of the ballpoint barrel cut to the appropriate
> length.
> Voila! A new plunger thingy.


And how d we know the first designer, at British Leyland, didn't do this 
very same thing?  (Except he got a patent for it.)

;-)

Cheers

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Feb 18 06:32:24 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:32:24 EST
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
Message-ID: <30b8.7aa5cd39.38ae9b68@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/18/2010 7:15:17 AM Central Standard Time, 
bkahler1 at gmail.com writes: 
> Ok, done with the bashing, now I'll go and make a payment to Team.net.

OK.  I've done my good deed for the day.  I can go back to bed.

> 
> Now, do I feel better for bashing Dave?  NOPE because he is doing a
> LOT better than I am in getting projects done!
> 
> Morning Dave!


Cheers.

Dave

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Thu Feb 18 06:48:46 2010
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:48:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <30b8.7aa5cd39.38ae9b68@cs.com>
References: <30b8.7aa5cd39.38ae9b68@cs.com>
Message-ID: <003101cab0a1$17b854e0$4728fea0$@net>

Good night

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 8:32 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TRF - poor business practice

In a message dated 2/18/2010 7:15:17 AM Central Standard Time, 
bkahler1 at gmail.com writes: 
> Ok, done with the bashing, now I'll go and make a payment to Team.net.

OK.  I've done my good deed for the day.  I can go back to bed.

> 
> Now, do I feel better for bashing Dave?  NOPE because he is doing a
> LOT better than I am in getting projects done!
> 
> Morning Dave!


Cheers.

Dave
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Thu Feb 18 06:48:55 2010
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:48:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <30b8.7aa5cd39.38ae9b68@cs.com>
References: <30b8.7aa5cd39.38ae9b68@cs.com>
Message-ID: <f99bbf591002180548m6ea4cb1w9312724d184e0cda@mail.gmail.com>

Bed?   Are you retired now?  I only wish I could go back to bed, I
still have to work :)

Are you going to VTR this year?  If so you need to try and route
yourself down I-64 to I-75 and stop by our place.  We'd love to have
you drop in.


Brad


On Thu, Feb 18, 2010 at 8:32 AM,  <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 2/18/2010 7:15:17 AM Central Standard Time,
> bkahler1 at gmail.com writes:
>> Ok, done with the bashing, now I'll go and make a payment to Team.net.
>
> OK.  I've done my good deed for the day.  I can go back to bed.
>
>>
>> Now, do I feel better for bashing Dave?  NOPE because he is doing a
>> LOT better than I am in getting projects done!
>>
>> Morning Dave!
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as bkahler1 at gmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Feb 18 06:53:32 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:53:32 EST
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
Message-ID: <39a7.113c1e5b.38aea05c@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/18/2010 7:48:57 AM Central Standard Time, 
bkahler1 at gmail.com writes: 
> Bed?   Are you retired now?  I only wish I could go back to bed, I
> still have to work :)

I wish.  Nope, still working and no end in sight.

> 
> Are you going to VTR this year?  If so you need to try and route
> yourself down I-64 to I-75 and stop by our place.  We'd love to have
> you drop in.

Linda wants to go and she would love to stop by and see you guys.

Dave

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Feb 18 06:57:58 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 07:57:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <2430.2e985c52.38ae92cf@cs.com>
References: <2430.2e985c52.38ae92cf@cs.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W3321E3F9B0DB1E33A16443E1470@phx.gbl>

If I limit myself to just unflattering comments about Dave but don't really
bash, can I get by for $9.99?


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 07:55:43 -0500
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
>
>
> If anyone wants to bash me and send Mark $22.94, feel free to do so.
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
>
>
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
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From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu Feb 18 07:32:04 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:32:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
References: <2430.2e985c52.38ae92cf@cs.com>
	<SNT123-W3321E3F9B0DB1E33A16443E1470@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <694B2D881281424982DDFB79A496F961@trigeni.com>

if you traded your TR3B for an early Herald, you could get by with $9.48...

mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich White" <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
To: "Dave Massey" <dave1massey at cs.com>; "TR owners List" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TRF - poor business practice


> If I limit myself to just unflattering comments about Dave but don't 
> really
> bash, can I get by for $9.99?
>
>
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF587L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
>
>
>
>> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
>> Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 07:55:43 -0500
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
>>
>>
>> If anyone wants to bash me and send Mark $22.94, feel free to do so.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Suggested annual donation $11.47
>>
>>
>> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Thu Feb 18 07:46:43 2010
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 09:46:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <39a7.113c1e5b.38aea05c@cs.com>
References: <39a7.113c1e5b.38aea05c@cs.com>
Message-ID: <f99bbf591002180646r487ce0b5l2eb7389892c937fd@mail.gmail.com>

> I wish.  Nope, still working and no end in sight.

Maybe when the economy picks up.

> Linda wants to go and she would love to stop by and see you guys.

Susan would have a great time showing Susan her horse and donkey and I
can spend time showing you all the junk I've managed to collect.  Who
knows maybe you'll want to take some of it home with you.

From blanoway at shaw.ca  Thu Feb 18 08:16:47 2010
From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 09:16:47 -0600
Subject: [TR] TRF - refunds (was poor business practice)
Message-ID: <753948DF240648CEA3FCC12A1FC6631B@Lanowaylaptop>

Its only right that I report to the List that I received my refund today
from TRF for the carpet set I returned before Christmas; three days after my
request for same and subsequent posting to this List.

I would like to think that my initial request to their staff prompted the
refund, but I suspect that my post to the List  and the flurry of emails
after; some directly to TRF  helped matters along.

Still, I need to give credit where credit is due.  TRF did process my refund
 albeit without any communications.

>From my point of view, the matter is closed.  In the meantime, I would like
to thank Blake Discher for his thoughtful post  his message was worth
noting.

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg, Canada

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Feb 18 08:19:04 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 10:19:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dave bashing (was xxx-poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <694B2D881281424982DDFB79A496F961@trigeni.com>
References: <2430.2e985c52.38ae92cf@cs.com><SNT123-W3321E3F9B0DB1E33A16443E1470@phx.gbl>
	<694B2D881281424982DDFB79A496F961@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <8CC7EC4D73B4DEB-9E34-AF31@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>


if you traded your TR3B for an early Herald, you could get by with $9.48...

==AM==

...and to bring this nearly full-circle, that's kinda what I did with Brad
several years ago. It wasn't quite that simple, but at one point in various
swaps, he ended up with my TR3B and I ended up with an early Herald. The jury
is still out on which of us got the better deal...or car...and if you saw
either car, you'd understand why that jury is still deliberating. ;)

I should probably send Mark at least $4.74....

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu Feb 18 09:15:54 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 10:15:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] Dave bashing (was xxx-poor business practice
References: <2430.2e985c52.38ae92cf@cs.com><SNT123-W3321E3F9B0DB1E33A16443E1470@phx.gbl><694B2D881281424982DDFB79A496F961@trigeni.com>
	<8CC7EC4D73B4DEB-9E34-AF31@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C5C360A983BB493E8ED7EF494CF821C0@trigeni.com>

I guess there is something karmic (or carmic?) in all this...

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Mace" <zoboherald at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Dave bashing (was xxx-poor business practice


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
>
>
> if you traded your TR3B for an early Herald, you could get by with 
> $9.48...
>
> ==AM==
>
> ...and to bring this nearly full-circle, that's kinda what I did with Brad
> several years ago. It wasn't quite that simple, but at one point in 
> various
> swaps, he ended up with my TR3B and I ended up with an early Herald. The 
> jury
> is still out on which of us got the better deal...or car...and if you saw
> either car, you'd understand why that jury is still deliberating. ;)
>
> I should probably send Mark at least $4.74....
>
> --Andy Mace
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
> Herald engine with wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
>
> Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
> Register: http://www.vtr.org
>
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
> Herald
> Database: http://triumph-herald.us
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Feb 18 10:56:58 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 10:56:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
In-Reply-To: <f99bbf591002180515n764d2f6as8a6979189f66ba0a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2430.2e985c52.38ae92cf@cs.com>
	<f99bbf591002180515n764d2f6as8a6979189f66ba0a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B7D7F6A.8030807@bradakis.com>

Brad Kahler wrote:
> Bash Dave?  Man that's going to take some thinking..........ok, how about
> this:
>
> Dave, you've taken WAY to long to get that TR3 finished and on the
> road.......seems like you could have had it done a long time ago, what
> a slackard   :)
>
> Ok, done with the bashing, now I'll go and make a payment to Team.net.
>
>   

Thanks!

For those who aren't paying attention, the donate link below takes you to
a page describing how to make a contribution.


mjb.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Feb 18 12:03:36 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 14:03:36 EST
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
Message-ID: <e474.37ee1adc.38aee908@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/18/2010 7:57:59 AM Central Standard Time, 
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> If I limit myself to just unflattering comments about Dave but don't 
> really bash, can I get by for $9.99?
> 
> 

No, you have to pay extra.  And if you pay me a compliment we take your 
house.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Feb 18 12:16:29 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 14:16:29 EST
Subject: [TR] TRF - poor business practice
Message-ID: <eb58.335de193.38aeec0d@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/18/2010 8:46:43 AM Central Standard Time, 
bkahler1 at gmail.com writes: 
> Susan would have a great time showing Susan her horse and donkey and I
> can spend time showing you all the junk I've managed to collect.  Who
> knows maybe you'll want to take some of it home with you.

I'm sure I would.  But the question is: will she allow it?

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Thu Feb 18 16:29:04 2010
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 18:29:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- chapter 2- NOS
Message-ID: <545E8B2B1D0046F59EAF79E93C09E2E3@DaveLaptop>

List,
I agree with Randall too. You can't expect to make 100% of all your
transactions positive on Ebay or anywhere else for that matter. Life just
isn't that way. If I am interested in a item for sale on Ebay, sure I look at
the feedback too but if it is above 90% I figure the 10% are either
misunderstandings or outright attempts to screw the seller, especially if
there are over say 100 transactions.
Sometimes we forget that everybody out there is not as decent as the people on
this list.
Best Regards,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS frozen in Cincinnati
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Feb 19 12:21:54 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 19:21:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 on bringatrailer.com
In-Reply-To: <8CC799990CF9A2F-4360-5DCE@webmail-m040.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <927716312.5758151266607314864.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

http://bringatrailer.com/2010/02/19/bat-exclusive-1962-triumph-tr4-driver/

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From elliottr at rmi.net  Fri Feb 19 21:28:50 2010
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 22:28:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] TRF - refunds (was poor business practice)
In-Reply-To: <753948DF240648CEA3FCC12A1FC6631B@Lanowaylaptop>
References: <753948DF240648CEA3FCC12A1FC6631B@Lanowaylaptop>
Message-ID: <4B7F6502.70303@rmi.net>

I am glad to hear you got your refund. 

There is one thing I did not see mentioned in this chain of emails about 
returns and refunds.  In past listings of emails, I have seen many 
people talk about returning items to TRF a LONG time after purchasing 
them, much longer than what most vendors would allow.   This is not 
something I have ever heard of Victoria British or Moss Motors ever doing. 

Roger Elliott

Brian Lanoway wrote:
> Its only right that I report to the List that I received my refund today
> from TRF for the carpet set I returned before Christmas; three days after my
> request for same and subsequent posting to this List.

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Feb 20 00:07:14 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 01:07:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hey,
 we made CNN Money's top 10 "dirt cheap" collectible  cars...
Message-ID: <20100220070741.DA9AC18764E@autox.team.net>

Triumph Spitfire 1500:
http://money.cnn.com/galleries/2010/autos/1002/gallery.cheap_collector_cars/3.html

Of course the pacer made # 2.  My old Mustang made #1, though.  Still 
miss that car - god it was fast.  I could scare myself by flooring it 
and dropping into 2nd while running 65 on the highway.  Topped it out 
once at somewhere around 140.  Sure kept your attention at that speed 
- blink and you're in another lane.  I had an Audi that I got up to 
something north of 130 on a downhill run and it was a one finger 
steerer.  What fun is that?

On the others they list, I came close to buying a Datsun Z car 
(bought a Rx-7 instead), and had a Taurus SHO.  That SHO was insanely 
fast too, but I'm not a big fan of front drive.  Jack did the beemer 
(probably not the same model), and my old college car was VW bug (of 
course I put the big jugs on it and an header).  That was a fun 
car.  So, I think I've got at least half of the 10 covered.  Pretty 
funny how that works out.

- Tony Drews

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Feb 20 07:12:36 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:12:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Toggle switches
References: <17784.e1a20c2.38a950a3@aol.com><CDA0D9854B414B1084BD3EC42370A2D4@AdrianPC>
	<6B1BC89A5E854AC2A588ABBFD20FDE31@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <AEFFB4DABAD24449BB8F582D3FEFE747@Edscomputer>

List,

I'm in need of a small switch panel to mount under the dash of a TR250 and 3 
toggle switches to replace those irreplaceable Clear Hooter dash switches. 
Local FLAPS don't seem to have anything: some switches, no panel.

Any idea where I can find these parts? A web site? Need help soon. This car 
is supposed to head for Sebring in a month. No, not as a participant.

TIA,

Ed Woods 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sat Feb 20 08:05:03 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:05:03 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Toggle switches
Message-ID: <1165930040.576840.1266678303224.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>

Ed,

I see the panels and switches on Ebay regularly.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

On Feb 20, 2010, Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote: 

List,

I'm in need of a small switch panel to mount under the dash of a TR250 and 3 
toggle switches to replace those irreplaceable Clear Hooter dash switches. 
Local FLAPS don't seem to have anything: some switches, no panel.

Any idea where I can find these parts? A web site? Need help soon. This car 
is supposed to head for Sebring in a month. No, not as a participant.

TIA,

Ed Woods 
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Sat Feb 20 08:18:13 2010
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:18:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Toggle switches
In-Reply-To: <AEFFB4DABAD24449BB8F582D3FEFE747@Edscomputer>
References: <17784.e1a20c2.38a950a3@aol.com>
	<CDA0D9854B414B1084BD3EC42370A2D4@AdrianPC>
	<6B1BC89A5E854AC2A588ABBFD20FDE31@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<AEFFB4DABAD24449BB8F582D3FEFE747@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <abb8688a1002200718s6926c849h21b88f8e814fe394@mail.gmail.com>

These are probably overkill for what you need, but short of making
your own panel....
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SWITCHPAN

On Sat, Feb 20, 2010 at 8:12 AM, Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:
> List,
>
> I'm in need of a small switch panel to mount under the dash of a TR250 and
3
> toggle switches to replace those irreplaceable Clear Hooter dash switches.
> Local FLAPS don't seem to have anything: some switches, no panel.
>
> Any idea where I can find these parts? A web site? Need help soon. This car
> is supposed to head for Sebring in a month. No, not as a participant.
>
> TIA,
>
> Ed Woods
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as jdinnis at gmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



--
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Feb 20 08:18:48 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 07:18:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] Toggle switches
In-Reply-To: <AEFFB4DABAD24449BB8F582D3FEFE747@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <68.0B.23353.95DFF7B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

Here's one source of panel:
http://www.jmwagnersales.com/lsp.html
 
TRF offers replacement switches that they claim will fit with a bit of
modification to the opening:
http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/index.php?menu=S&page=142
http://tinyurl.com/ydwgbsg
but I don't know any more than that.

Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Feb 20 09:55:36 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:55:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Toggle switches
In-Reply-To: <AEFFB4DABAD24449BB8F582D3FEFE747@Edscomputer>
References: <17784.e1a20c2.38a950a3@aol.com><CDA0D9854B414B1084BD3EC42370A2D4@AdrianPC><6B1BC89A5E854AC2A588ABBFD20FDE31@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<AEFFB4DABAD24449BB8F582D3FEFE747@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <8B4392BC19F44EF889FA00DC0A9E61FE@joepentiumnew>

Why not buy the switches at your local auto parts store and fabricate a
panel from some sheet aluminum?

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 7:13 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Toggle switches

List,

I'm in need of a small switch panel to mount under the dash of a TR250 and 3

toggle switches to replace those irreplaceable Clear Hooter dash switches. 
Local FLAPS don't seem to have anything: some switches, no panel.

Any idea where I can find these parts? A web site? Need help soon. This car 
is supposed to head for Sebring in a month. No, not as a participant.

TIA,

Ed Woods 
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Feb 20 10:45:48 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 12:45:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Toggle switches
References: <17784.e1a20c2.38a950a3@aol.com><CDA0D9854B414B1084BD3EC42370A2D4@AdrianPC><6B1BC89A5E854AC2A588ABBFD20FDE31@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<AEFFB4DABAD24449BB8F582D3FEFE747@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <A58AD70F9BCE48F99B0BEDB705C31CDD@Edscomputer>

Thanks to all the Listers for some good leads.

Wonder of wonders! Just got a call from Bruce Stutzman who's at Team Triumph 
in Warren, OH. He's found a pair of Clear Hooter switches in working 
condition! Wiper switch and washer switch!

Still need that hazard toggle. That's what I'll use the under dash switch 
for..

Thanks again.

Ed Woods 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Feb 20 14:47:09 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 14:47:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRF - refunds (was poor business practice)
In-Reply-To: <4B7F6502.70303@rmi.net>
References: <753948DF240648CEA3FCC12A1FC6631B@Lanowaylaptop>
	<4B7F6502.70303@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <3b0049461002201347q6d7e8515x82363bdbef3b220e@mail.gmail.com>

On 2/19/10, Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net> wrote:
> This is not something I have ever heard of Victoria British
> or Moss Motors ever doing...

Moss has done this for me on an item I had purchased long ago that had
a problem and was bascially useless.  It came to pass that they
learned of the problem & resolved it.  I heard about the improved
product on this list, asked Moss about it and they immediately sent me
the new & improved version.

I suppose a vendor love-fest can be as annoying as vendor bashing but
thought I'd acknowledge that all these guys are capable of both
delighting you and breaking your heart from time to time.

Geo

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Feb 21 06:24:28 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:24:28 EST
Subject: [TR] TR- final chapter- NOS
Message-ID: <2448.795560ee.38b28e0c@aol.com>

list, well after catering to this fellow to try and save my 100% my  ebay 
rating i have new news. being specific with him i simply explained that  this 
mishap was mutual and to play nice ball. the bottom line he returned the  
cost of the item, $4.99 and gave me a positive feedback. i did have to eat 
the  shipping charges one way. for me i must say that i learned something, 
like my  grandfather would always tell me that one learns something till the 
day you die.  may he rest in peace, but how correct he was. when one wants to 
sell anything  for that matter be sure to fully describe the item from top 
to bottom and to  provide photos when dealing over the internet. thanks for 
all your input.   larry schwartz

From eoot at citlink.net  Sun Feb 21 07:29:09 2010
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 09:29:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch?
Message-ID: <423CD4C0DE864198A5E553F070760C60@WANDERER>

Listers,

Need some assistance on how to diagnose this. The car is a TVR 2500M, TR6
engine and transmission.  A little history first. In an effort to resolve an
intermittant issue with the swtiched circuit, I ended up replacing the fuse
block as there was indication this was the problem. After replacing the block
everything worked as it should. I took the car out for a 20 minute run
yesterday and upon my return the ignition switch would not turn off the car. I
could see from gauges that the switched circuit was turning off ok. I don't
see any relationship between the fuse block and the ignition system. Is this
correct? Is the ignition switch itself the most likely culprit?  Are there
other possibilities that I should check?

Unfortuantely I did not have my wits about me and neglected to disconnect the
battery right away.  I suspect that the Pertronix coil and ingniton might now
be toast although I have not confirmed.

TIA for the help



E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.14390
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From eoot at citlink.net  Sun Feb 21 07:38:33 2010
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 09:38:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch?
Message-ID: <DF5CDA80F0274E1D828EB674B28560DE@WANDERER>

Listers,

Need some assistance on how to diagnose this. The car is a TVR 2500M, TR6
engine and transmission.  A little history first. In an effort to resolve an
intermittant issue with the swtiched circuit, I ended up replacing the fuse
block as there was indication this was the problem. After replacing the block
everything worked as it should. I took the car out for a 20 minute run
yesterday and upon my return the ignition switch would not turn off the car. I
could see from gauges that the switched circuit was turning off ok. I don't
see any relationship between the fuse block and the ignition system. Is this
correct? Is the ignition switch itself the most likely culprit?  Are there
other possibilities that I should check?

Unfortuantely I did not have my wits about me and neglected to disconnect the
battery right away.  I suspect that the Pertronix coil and ingniton might now
be toast although I have not confirmed.

TIA for the help



E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.14390
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sun Feb 21 08:40:46 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 07:40:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
Message-ID: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>

Hello all,

I have two bullet mirrors installed, but find that the flat glass is no good
for really seeing traffic behind me, especially the passenger side one. I
like the look of the mirrors. Has anybody replaced the flat glass with a
convex one?

Johnnie

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun Feb 21 09:02:12 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:02:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Toggle switches
References: <17784.e1a20c2.38a950a3@aol.com><CDA0D9854B414B1084BD3EC42370A2D4@AdrianPC><6B1BC89A5E854AC2A588ABBFD20FDE31@valued9cfc0b6f><AEFFB4DABAD24449BB8F582D3FEFE747@Edscomputer>
	<A58AD70F9BCE48F99B0BEDB705C31CDD@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <DCB5F7B457EE419F87EBCE4767FD1622@Edscomputer>

Great list! Bought a Lucas panel from Justin Wagner and a second one form 
Brad Kahler. Never know when you'll need a spare!

Thanks for all the replies.

Ed Woods 

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sun Feb 21 09:13:20 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:13:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
In-Reply-To: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
References: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CC8127EB857FEF-44E0-FAA7@webmail-d092.sysops.aol.com>

 Lots, go to your local glass shop with the mirror and tell them what you
want.  They should be able to cut one for you and you can then install it
yourself or have them install it.






-----Original Message-----
From: John & Pat Donnelly <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Feb 21, 2010 10:40 am
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade


Hello all,

I have two bullet mirrors installed, but find that the flat glass is no good
for really seeing traffic behind me, especially the passenger side one. I
like the look of the mirrors. Has anybody replaced the flat glass with a
convex one?

Johnnie
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From rawanderer at comcast.net  Sun Feb 21 09:49:23 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:49:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
In-Reply-To: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20100221164933.260BB1878B7@autox.team.net>

FWIW, Victoria British offers bullet mirrors with either flat or convex
lenses.

BobW
Montgomeryville, PA
1974 TR6 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Sunday, 21 February, 2010 10:41 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade

Hello all,

I have two bullet mirrors installed, but find that the flat glass is no good
for really seeing traffic behind me, especially the passenger side one. I
like the look of the mirrors. Has anybody replaced the flat glass with a
convex one?

Johnnie
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 21 09:54:07 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 10:54:07 -0600
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
In-Reply-To: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
References: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <7B4A164D5FF1480885C99082393B1B07@ranteer.local>

go to a motorcycle shop.  they'll have the right size

--------------------------------------------------
From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 9:40 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade

> Hello all,
>
> I have two bullet mirrors installed, but find that the flat glass is no 
> good
> for really seeing traffic behind me, especially the passenger side one. I
> like the look of the mirrors. Has anybody replaced the flat glass with a
> convex one?
>
> Johnnie 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sun Feb 21 10:09:56 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 17:09:56 +0000
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
In-Reply-To: <8CC8127EB857FEF-44E0-FAA7@webmail-d092.sysops.aol.com>
References: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
	<8CC8127EB857FEF-44E0-FAA7@webmail-d092.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E47D12@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Aaron, I will have to visit your glass shop. My local place tried twice to cut
a convex piece for mine and failed both times and gave up. I have tried and
failed. I recall that Dick Taylor finally came up with a procedure that worked
for him but I don't think he shared that. Even with the convex glass I wonder
how effective it is on the passenger door.

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of acekraut11 at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 11:13 AM
To: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade

 Lots, go to your local glass shop with the mirror and tell them what you
want.  They should be able to cut one for you and you can then install it
yourself or have them install it.

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Sun Feb 21 10:13:29 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:13:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
In-Reply-To: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20100221171336.DCBD5187869@autox.team.net>

I have Moss's baby turbo mirrors (P/N 165-350) installed on both sides, and
find them "good enough" for keeping track of traffic--as long as I make sure
they're positioned correctly before I drive off.  Unfortunately, it has to
be removed from the door to gain access to the tension adjustor.

BobW
Montgomeryville, PA
1974 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Sunday, 21 February, 2010 10:41 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade

Hello all,

I have two bullet mirrors installed, but find that the flat glass is no good
for really seeing traffic behind me, especially the passenger side one. I
like the look of the mirrors. Has anybody replaced the flat glass with a
convex one?

Johnnie
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Feb 21 10:19:36 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 17:19:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
In-Reply-To: <594955446.6249341266769787897.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <576820254.6262331266772776925.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I have a convex repro Lucas mirror on the TR4.

I have stick-on convex "truck bubbles" covering both round mirrors on the Caterham.  I used these on the fake (die-cast) Talbot mirrors on the Sonett.

The truck bubbles give you more field of view than the Lucas mirrors.  I would expect you would get a wider view with the stick-ons than you would get with convex replacement glass for your bullet mirrors (if they are event available).  Also, the stick-ons are are only a couple of bucks.  Look around for the largest size you can find that fit.  If you find out you don't like them, you can get them back off again.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

----- "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com> wrote:

> From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 9:40:46 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
>
> Hello all,
> 
> I have two bullet mirrors installed, but find that the flat glass is
> no good
> for really seeing traffic behind me, especially the passenger side
> one. I
> like the look of the mirrors. Has anybody replaced the flat glass with
> a
> convex one?

From TBe749 at aol.com  Sun Feb 21 10:22:09 2010
From: TBe749 at aol.com (TBe749 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:22:09 EST
Subject: [TR] TR 250 Nose Bra
Message-ID: <7011.35ec6a0b.38b2c5c1@aol.com>

I have a friend who has a client looking for one for his 250
 
Anyone know where to buy one?
 
Thanks
 
Tom Beaver

From dwillner at ptd.net  Sun Feb 21 10:36:58 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:36:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 solenoid wire question
Message-ID: <2A67BB9179994139B4D090B5C6CFF94A@valued9cfc0b6f>

I have an original selenoid on my car and I was doing some spring (early)
housekeeping and cleaned up the solenoid. I have a questions regarding the
order of the wires...I just had a spark when I tried to start it. I have a
white/red lead going to the started button, a black lead (heavy) to the
starter (off the bottom post of the solenoid) - no problem. I have a battery
lead on the top post as well as two brown leads, one to the fuse box and not
sure the other brown, a ground? Question, do these need to be separted with
nuts or washers on the top post? And is the order of any concern, I had the
two brown leads than the battery? My wiring diagrams also only showed one
brown lead off the top post to the fuse box? Appreciate it, thanks

Dave Willner
59 TR3A (TS65107L)
70 MGB
70 BSA 441

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Feb 21 11:17:32 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:17:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 solenoid wire question
In-Reply-To: <2A67BB9179994139B4D090B5C6CFF94A@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <2A67BB9179994139B4D090B5C6CFF94A@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <DF72E0E19E544147B110542D27255B88@bboffice>

DON"T GROUND THE BROWN!

The two brown wires should be solenoid-to fuse box and the ammeter-to-fuse
box(both to the same post at the fuse box).  Separating wires on a single
post with washers does help to keep the connection a little neater and
everything in place when you tighten it down.  IMHO I would put the heavier
wire on the bottom then the lighter gauge wire, but neither order will
affect connectivity.

If you have extra wires that are not shown on your diagram, you need to
trace them out before you attach them to any thing.  This can be a little
time consuming but it is cheap insurance.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 10:37 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 solenoid wire question

I have an original selenoid on my car and I was doing some spring (early)
housekeeping and cleaned up the solenoid. I have a questions regarding the
order of the wires...I just had a spark when I tried to start it. I have a
white/red lead going to the started button, a black lead (heavy) to the
starter (off the bottom post of the solenoid) - no problem. I have a battery
lead on the top post as well as two brown leads, one to the fuse box and not
sure the other brown, a ground? Question, do these need to be separted with
nuts or washers on the top post? And is the order of any concern, I had the
two brown leads than the battery? My wiring diagrams also only showed one
brown lead off the top post to the fuse box? Appreciate it, thanks

Dave Willner
59 TR3A (TS65107L)
70 MGB
70 BSA 441
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Feb 21 11:38:26 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:38:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
In-Reply-To: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
References: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <EDA2DB2BAA8240A7995BC5B4444BCAB4@joepentiumnew>

On a Spitfire, the Passenger Mirror is totally useless unless it is mounted
on the fender rather than the door.  The bullet mirrors look cool but
putting a convex lens would not do anything to get the mirror from behind
the windshield frame so you could see it.  Perhaps your application is
better suited.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 8:41 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade

Hello all,

I have two bullet mirrors installed, but find that the flat glass is no good
for really seeing traffic behind me, especially the passenger side one. I
like the look of the mirrors. Has anybody replaced the flat glass with a
convex one?

Johnnie
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Feb 21 12:36:09 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 14:36:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
In-Reply-To: <EDA2DB2BAA8240A7995BC5B4444BCAB4@joepentiumnew>
References: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
	<EDA2DB2BAA8240A7995BC5B4444BCAB4@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <201002211436.10157.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 21 February 2010 01:38:26 pm Joe Curry wrote:
> On a Spitfire, the Passenger Mirror is totally useless unless it is mounted
> on the fender rather than the door.  The bullet mirrors look cool but
> putting a convex lens would not do anything to get the mirror from behind
> the windshield frame so you could see it.  Perhaps your application is
> better suited.
> 
> Joe
> 

It is the same on a TR4. I have a passenger mirror installed on the door and 
no matter how I have tried, it is of no use to the driver. But it does look 
cool!

The TR6 project will only get a drivers side bullet as was stock back in 72.

Bob

From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Sun Feb 21 12:34:42 2010
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 13:34:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] MGC fir sale in KY
Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB4015AA@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>

All-



Below is an email I received yesterday about a car that is local and that I
have know about for many years. Keith Kubic, the owner, is a well known
carburetor guy here in Bowling Green and has had this car for probably 30
years. Unfortunately, for the last several years the car sat outside in the
weather and the result of that situation is evident in the photos.

However, if anyone on this list has an interest I am certainly willing to help
with coordinating contact, additional photos or short term storage if it
helps.

I know it is not a TR, but it was MG's attempt to add hp to run with the
throaty and robust TR6!


Steve Thornton
Bowling Green, KY

1968 Triumph TR 250
1963 Jaguar Mk II RHD
2000 Indian Chief
2007 HD Heritage Springer
1963 HD Topper

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net



Hi gang,MG guru Keith Kubic is finally letting go of his MGC which has
been parked behind his house since the 70's when a college kid sold it to
Keith because it needed a starter. The starter was never acquired and the car
sat. Now it needs a complete rebuild. Last title 1979. Everything is there but
the starter. All original smog control is still there. Call him ASAP if
interested because I will be posting it on Craigslist this week, then Ebay if
no action there. I am posting for Keith because he has no PC. It was a
struggle trying to value this car due to the rarity and condition. He wanted
$4k but I think $2,500 is right on target for a quick
sale. http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/apps/photos/ (Let me know if link does
not open for you) Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Sun Feb 21 15:16:10 2010
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 17:16:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Nose Bra for Sale
Message-ID: <4B81B0AA.10300@earthlink.net>

Howdy all,

I have a brand new Vicki British Nose Bra for a pre-75 TR6.  Brand new, 
never used.  List is $99.99 plus shipping.  I'd like to sell it at  half 
off.  Any takers?

Joe
72 TR6

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Sun Feb 21 16:24:48 2010
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 16:24:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1973 Stag on Ebay
Message-ID: <4B81C0C0.1090401@triumphstagclub.org>

All,

  I had to cancel my auction due to a bidding snafu with the top two 
bidders.

So it is now relisted

as Item #250584944710 on the US Ebay Motors site, new reduced reserve 
and buy it now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250584944710&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT

Maybe this time there won't be typos made in bidding!

Cheers!!

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Feb 21 19:42:19 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 21:42:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
In-Reply-To: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4B81A8BB.17512.19D72914@localhost>

On 21 Feb 2010 at 7:40, John & Pat Donnelly wrote:

> I have two bullet mirrors installed, but find that the flat glass
> is no good for really seeing traffic behind me, especially the
> passenger side one.

My Spitfire has the standard issue flat mirrors on each side, and my 
GT6 has a bullet on each side.  The passenger side mirror on both 
cars is actually useful but not for seeing what is behind me.  They 
give me another view of the lane over my passenger side shoulder and 
about a car length or so back.  That's the scary place you need to 
see when you are changing lanes.  The thing is, they take getting 
used to, require careful aim, etc.  A convex or bubble mirror would 
probably be better but they are useful.



-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sun Feb 21 20:51:52 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 19:51:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] Bullet mirror upgrade
In-Reply-To: <4B81A8BB.17512.19D72914@localhost>
References: <000001cab30c$3cf7c250$b6e746f0$@rr.com>
	<4B81A8BB.17512.19D72914@localhost>
Message-ID: <000001cab372$5f2cdde0$1d8699a0$@rr.com>

This afternoon I went to my local parts store (PepBoys) and found a 3 3/4"
stick on convex mirror. The bullet mirror is 4 1/4" so it's not a perfect
fit, but it works. Definitely better than that flat mirror.

Then I recalled many years ago I had an old Lucas replica fender mirror
stashed away in a drawer. It was 4 1/8", and convex! But after 15 minutes of
trying to remove the shroud I cracked the mirror. Bummer.

I really don't want to buy one of those Lucas replica mirrors just to try
and get the glass. Does anybody know who makes them? Maybe they sell just
the mirror section?

Johnnie


> 
> On 21 Feb 2010 at 7:40, John & Pat Donnelly wrote:
> 
> > I have two bullet mirrors installed, but find that the flat glass
> > is no good for really seeing traffic behind me, especially the
> > passenger side one.

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sun Feb 21 21:16:13 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 20:16:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR Action - Cool Magazine
Message-ID: <000101cab375$c5890fc0$509b2f40$@rr.com>

A couple of weeks ago Randall mentioned an article in TR Action about
rebuilding a control head. I didn't know what TR Action was so I went and
cruised the web and found it to be the magazine of the UK TR Register. They
had a link for a free demo issue so I couldn't resist, and it came on
Friday.

 

It was a full color glossy that was 82 pages long, all about our cars. This
was the Christmas edition so I'm sure it was a left-over, but it had a
zillion articles of everything from general stuff to techie stuff to short
articles from each of the major sub groups of the UK TR Reg. Yes, it had
advertisements, but all were Triumph related.  It had a great picture of a
TR4 pulling a teardrop trailer.

 

I must have been underneath a rock for the last 40+ years I've owned my TR,
but this is the best Triumph periodical I've seen. 

 

www.tr-register.co.uk

 

Johnnie

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Mon Feb 22 07:22:38 2010
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 08:22:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR Action - Cool Magazine
In-Reply-To: <000101cab375$c5890fc0$509b2f40$@rr.com>
References: <000101cab375$c5890fc0$509b2f40$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BLU111-W211C1C68FDDB177265A694B9430@phx.gbl>

Although it is a little costly, I keep a membership in the TR Register because
that magazine is so good.  And as an added bonus, when you first sign up, you
get a 'Technicalities Volume 2' CD which is loaded with technical advice for
all TRs from past issues.



Randy

64 TR4

59 TR3A

>
>
> I must have been underneath a rock for the last 40+ years I've owned my TR,
> but this is the best Triumph periodical I've seen.
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390706/direct/01/

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Feb 22 09:27:12 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 11:27:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking for ammeter
Message-ID: <8F5D3AF803E24A63A092ADCC832ED138@Edscomputer>

List,

Anyone out there have a TR250, early TR6 ammeter they'll part with?

Please reply off list.

Ed Woods

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Feb 22 15:10:56 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 17:10:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking for ammeter
References: <8F5D3AF803E24A63A092ADCC832ED138@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <386E89EF44244E4C9A2076D188780521@Edscomputer>

Found one. Thanks List.

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Tue Feb 23 11:08:09 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 11:08:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A door pockets
Message-ID: <AC751E97-2302-464C-B5A0-1412BBD39470@cox.net>

The interior of my door pockets and glovebox on my 1960 TR3A are a rather
faded grayish color.  The interior of the car is black.  I am assuming that at
one time the the door pockets were also black???

If this is true, what can one use to return them to a more appropriate shade
of black?

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From jr468 at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 23 14:21:24 2010
From: jr468 at hotmail.com (John Reed)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 16:21:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
Message-ID: <BLU105-W156D2DF31AE29ABB4B579ED420@phx.gbl>

I'm considering changing my 57 TR3 from 4" disc wheels to 60 spoke 4.5"
painted wire wheels.  I'd like to hear others' experiences before I drop that
much money on wheels.



I started thinking about getting new wheels last year.  I was never able to
get a couple of my disc wheels properly balanced, and I thought I might want
to go up in width to 5" wheels and 185/80-15 tires.  I gave some thought to 5"
wires or panasports, but I decided the panasport look wasn't right for me.  I
was also concerned that the 185 tires might be too wide for the handling with
the worm and peg steering.  So that put me back to 4.5" wires.



So what am I getting into?  Am I spending a lot of money to buy headaches in
maintenance on painted wire wheels?  Do they really need much maintenance?
How does the paint hold up?  Should I reconsider wider wheels/tires?  Since I
have zero experience with wire wheels any advice before I spend the money is
apprciated.



btw, Allen Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheels is now recommending Dunlop for
painted wheels.  He says that the quality issues have been resolved and he's
now seeing paint issues on the Dayton's.  I'm planning on buying the tires and
mounting and trueing service from him.  He says Dayton still has the best
chrome by far.



John Reed

Ann Arbor MI

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 23 15:10:03 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 14:10:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
In-Reply-To: <BLU105-W156D2DF31AE29ABB4B579ED420@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU105-W156D2DF31AE29ABB4B579ED420@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2BEFDBC4253E4115AE2C1F5D0611F8AC@jdnet.deere.com>

> I was also concerned that the 185 tires might 
> be too wide for the handling with the worm and peg steering. 

Depends a lot more on the tire, it's inflation, and the condition of your
steering box; than the tire width, IMO.  I've been running 205 tires on 5.5"
TR6 rims for quite a few years now, and I like them.  But rebuilding the box
did make a world of difference in the steering on my TR3A.  I don't have the
TR3 setup just right yet, but it's still quite drivable with the 205s, IMO.

Wire wheels do _require_ periodic maintenance, in particular you should
remove them from the car at least once a year to clean and relubricate the
splines and threads.  I neglected that task on my Stag (which got new Dayton
wire wheels in 2003) and the shop almost couldn't get one of them off again
to replace the tire.  While they off, you should also check for loose or
broken spokes ... One of the brand new Daytons broke several spokes within
the first year (repaired under warranty but still cost me for shipping,
mounting & balancing).

-- Randall  

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Feb 23 15:11:55 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 17:11:55 EST
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
Message-ID: <16899.4e4464ff.38b5acab@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/23/2010 4:40:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jr468 at hotmail.com writes:

I'm  considering changing my 57 TR3 from 4" disc wheels to 60 spoke 4.5"
painted  wire wheels.  I'd like to hear others' experiences before I drop  
that
much money on wheels.



John,
How are you?  I believe the 4.5" 60 spoke painted wires are no  more.  At 
least that's what Deb @ TRF told me.  Seems Dayton made a  decision to do 
them all in 5".  I wont tell if yo don't tell!   Possibly someone else still 
has them in 4.5".  And there is always a chance  that I'm all wet!  Where is 
that all day bottle of Crown Royal  anyway?  You know the one with the handle?
Cheers,
Darrell

From jr468 at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 23 15:33:54 2010
From: jr468 at hotmail.com (John Reed)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 17:33:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
In-Reply-To: <16899.4e4464ff.38b5acab@aol.com>
References: <16899.4e4464ff.38b5acab@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU105-W706AEA8A77465D61BC7BDED420@phx.gbl>

Hey Darrell !

>>  I believe the 4.5" 60 spoke painted wires are no more.  At least that's
what Deb @ TRF told me.  Seems Dayton made a decision to do them all in 5".


Allen at Hendrix Wire Wheel did tell me that Dayton is only building painted
wheels when they are ordered -- with a possible long backorder unless you're
buying from a stocking retailer.  So I guess that would mean there all custom
now.  Would it be better to get 5" 60 spoke wheels?  Then I could put 165/80
tires on now, but have the option of getting of 185/70 tires if 165s ever
become unavailable.  One disadvantage to doing that is the extra cost --
particularly if don't plan on using 185/70s.



 John

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Feb 23 16:36:11 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:36:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
In-Reply-To: <BLU105-W156D2DF31AE29ABB4B579ED420@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU105-W156D2DF31AE29ABB4B579ED420@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <201002231836.11324.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 23 February 2010 04:21:24 pm John Reed wrote:
> I'm considering changing my 57 TR3 from 4" disc wheels to 60 spoke 4.5"
> painted wire wheels.  I'd like to hear others' experiences before I drop
>  that much money on wheels.
> 
John,

I have Dayton 60 spoke / 4.5 inch on my 63 TR4 and after 3 seasons they have 
held up quite nice. No problems with the paint other than they are hard to 
clean! I am running a 165/15 Cooper tire. 

If I ever change the wheels on the 3 from the stock steel, I will go with 
Super-lites 15 / 6.

I have a set of Super-lites for my TR6 project and I am having BF Goodrich 
Traction T/A T tires (205/70/R15) mounted on the rims tomorrow.

For me wires just don't look right on a 3 or a 6.

But thats just me I guess.

Bob

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Feb 23 17:09:40 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 19:09:40 EST
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
Message-ID: <1a32d.50013b1d.38b5c844@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/23/2010 5:33:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jr468 at hotmail.com writes:

Would  it be better to get 5" 60 spoke wheels? 
John,
I bought a new set for my TR250 from TRF.  They had them in  stock.  Deb 
warned me and made it clear that they were 5".  I was OK  with that.  She 
indicated that Dayton was going to that size in the  spirit of "one size firs 
all" like in Healeys, Jags and MG's.
Darrell 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 23 17:50:36 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 16:50:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Toyota 5 speed and spedo calibration
Message-ID: <434139.13461.qm@web113416.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

i recently took my TR3 out on the freeway with my tomtom GPS. i have a Toyota 5 speed installed and was curious to see how far off my speedometer was. i was delighted to see that it was consistently just 3 mph faster than actual (GPS) speed. this was true for speeds 40/60 and 80 mph.
i seem to recall some suggestions that the calibration could be up to 10% off.
I'm just curious about the findings of others with the Toyota conversion.
thanks
Frank

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 23 18:49:15 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:49:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Toyota 5 speed and spedo calibration
In-Reply-To: <434139.13461.qm@web113416.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <434139.13461.qm@web113416.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E3D691F8A51E45BA9E630571ECE45B29@BobPC>

Mine was off by about 14 MPH at highway speeds but I had also changed out to 
a 4:08 Nissan diff. I had it calibrated by West Valley Instruments in Calif 
and it's perfect now.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 7:50 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Toyota 5 speed and spedo calibration

> i recently took my TR3 out on the freeway with my tomtom GPS. i have a 
> Toyota 5 speed installed and was curious to see how far off my speedometer 
> was. i was delighted to see that it was consistently just 3 mph faster 
> than actual (GPS) speed. this was true for speeds 40/60 and 80 mph.
> i seem to recall some suggestions that the calibration could be up to 10% 
> off.
> I'm just curious about the findings of others with the Toyota conversion.
> thanks
> Frank
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Feb 23 19:20:12 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 19:20:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
In-Reply-To: <1a32d.50013b1d.38b5c844@aol.com>
References: <1a32d.50013b1d.38b5c844@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461002231820o72476714ne08431b0e95d503@mail.gmail.com>

I've had the painted Dunlops in the 4.5" for 9 years with no problems.
 But then I switch back & forth with the steel wheels and a set of
alloys just because I can (use a 6mm spacer with the wires so I can
keep the long studs).

When a little guy I had a toy car you could swap the wheels on & off
-- was a favorite -- guess I still feel the same.

Geo

From emanteno at gmail.com  Tue Feb 23 21:22:31 2010
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:22:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] Toyota 5 speed and spedo calibration
In-Reply-To: <434139.13461.qm@web113416.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <434139.13461.qm@web113416.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <354a1781002232022g594afd7cw9ca09aa83b974b3e@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Feb 23, 2010 at 6:50 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> i recently took my TR3 out on the freeway with my tomtom GPS. i have a
> Toyota 5 speed installed and was curious to see how far off my speedometer
> was. i was delighted to see that it was consistently just 3 mph faster than
> actual (GPS) speed. this was true for speeds 40/60 and 80 mph.
> i seem to recall some suggestions that the calibration could be up to 10%
> off.
> I'm just curious about the findings of others with the Toyota conversion.


Mine runs about 8% low. I also checked mine using a GPS. I'm sure a part of
that error is due to the 205/55x16 tires I run.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From acs25m at swbell.net  Tue Feb 23 21:42:35 2010
From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:42:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Toyota 5 speed and spedo calibration
Message-ID: <246342.48028.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I did mine a little different than Bob did. I used the following spreadsheet to figure the gearing that I needed and this site to see how the gearing is changed. I changed both the driving gear and the driven gear my speedo is off by 2 mph at 60 mph and I can live with that.
http://kmfdmk.com/tirespeedocalc.xls
http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=39134
John Maneke

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Tue Feb 23 22:14:48 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 00:14:48 EST
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
Message-ID: <2181f.7fad0e0c.38b60fc8@aol.com>

Hi John;
 
I have a very early TR3A that, when I bought it, had 60 spoke  painted 
wires and 165/80-15's fitted. I had a close call when a car turned in  front of 
me, I braked, the tyres locked up and I nearly hit the "person of  
questionable parentage" that was turning in front of me.
 
The tyres themselves had lots of tread and they were a reasonably good  
brand. As you know, disc-braked sidescreen TR's have remarkably good brakes, so 
 my theory (which I know could be argued against all day long on this list) 
is  that the car has brakes that are perhaps too good for the level of grip 
afforded  by skinny tyres.
 
Accordingly, I went for TR6-type painted 72-spoke Dunlop wire wheels with  
195/65-15 tyres. I have tried some mock emergency braking scenarios and the 
car  stops much better. It also has better emergency avoidance  qualities.
 
I believe the price of the 72-spokers is not that much more than the  
60-spokers. You'll be able to fit a wider tyre to the 72-spokers because I think  
they are 5.5 inches wide. In addition, I have a theory that they will 
require  less maintenance because the 72-spoke wire wheel is a very strong wheel. 
Now I  live in Canada but I grew up in the UK and used to go to racetracks 
all over the  country to watch historic racing, following a team of guys  
racing sidescreen TR's. The wheels of choice were either TR6 steel wheels  or 
TR6 72-spoke wire wheels. The guys with the wires loved them; claimed  they 
were at least as strong as the steel wheels, said they hardly ever had to  
adjust the spokes, despite the abuse they received on the track, and they 
were  easier to change than a steel wheel.
 
I'm not saying this is the best set-up for everyone; I'm sure there  are 
listers that would condemn my choice. However, my personal opinion is  they 
are the best choice for this car. The front tyres do rub very slightly on  
full turning lock, but that's minor; I don't do much slow-speed parking lot  
work. I also happen to think that wires look best on a TR3A; they just seem to 
 look so right to me, and the wider ones I have look even better especially 
 painted and not chromed. Then again, I like that juvenile boy racer look!
 
I've had my Dunlop 72-spokers fitted for three years now. They have  
required no adjustments or maintenance (apart from the annual greasing of  
splines), and I live on a bumpy dirt road which admittedly  I drive on at little 
more than walking pace but still the car  gets bumped about a lot.
 
Good luck with it John. Difficult decision.
 
Tim
PS: Don't forget you'll need to shorten your wheel studs to accommodate the 
 wires; they're too long and will interfere with the wheels when  fitted.

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Wed Feb 24 05:09:19 2010
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 07:09:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hey,
 we made CNN Money's top 10 "dirt cheap"  collectible  cars...
In-Reply-To: <20100220070741.DA9AC18764E@autox.team.net>
References: <20100220070741.DA9AC18764E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <f99bbf591002240409haf8c1f1v9258293273cf2994@mail.gmail.com>

Tony,

I've had four from the list: Spitfire (several actually), a Fiat 850
sypder, 67 Bug, a 280Z and although it wasn't Buick I had a 55 Olds
Delta 88 Deluxe.  The Olds was a big old boat but fun to drive.  I
really liked the Olds floor push button for tuning the radio.

Brad


On Sat, Feb 20, 2010 at 2:07 AM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
> Triumph Spitfire 1500:
>
http://money.cnn.com/galleries/2010/autos/1002/gallery.cheap_collector_cars/3
.html
>
> Of course the pacer made # 2.  My old Mustang made #1, though.  Still miss
> that car - god it was fast.  I could scare myself by flooring it and
> dropping into 2nd while running 65 on the highway.  Topped it out once at
> somewhere around 140.  Sure kept your attention at that speed - blink and
> you're in another lane.  I had an Audi that I got up to something north of
> 130 on a downhill run and it was a one finger steerer.  What fun is that?
>
> On the others they list, I came close to buying a Datsun Z car (bought a
> Rx-7 instead), and had a Taurus SHO.  That SHO was insanely fast too, but
> I'm not a big fan of front drive.  Jack did the beemer (probably not the
> same model), and my old college car was VW bug (of course I put the big
jugs
> on it and an header).  That was a fun car.  So, I think I've got at least
> half of the 10 covered.  Pretty funny how that works out.
>
> - Tony Drews
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as bkahler1 at gmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Feb 21 09:03:04 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:03:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- final chapter- NOS
Message-ID: <B9CC10B30FEB4A1CB49284298A137B4B@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Larry, thanks for the tip.  I've bought alot of stuff on ebay but not sold
much so I've got a good rating.  But I've wondered something:  What recourse
do you have as a seller if you fully describe an item, and then, the buyer
lies about a $5 item and then gives you a bad rating?

Thanks, Paul

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Feb 21 09:03:17 2010
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:03:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- final chapter- NOS
Message-ID: <981BCAF81B14430E865A6DD74C305108@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Larry, thanks for the tip.  I've bought alot of stuff on ebay but not sold
much so I've got a good rating.  But I've wondered something:  What recourse
do you have as a seller if you fully describe an item, and then, the buyer
lies about a $5 item and then gives you a bad rating?

Thanks, Paul

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb 24 06:38:21 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 08:38:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- final chapter- NOS
In-Reply-To: <981BCAF81B14430E865A6DD74C305108@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <981BCAF81B14430E865A6DD74C305108@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <25078EFE667E4CC6A10092FA7CDA440C@BobPC>

As a seller you have very limited recourse to neutral or negative feedback.

http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/feedback-ov.html

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


--------------------------------------------------
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 11:03 AM
To: <L1J1S at aol.com>
Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR- final chapter- NOS

> Larry, thanks for the tip.  I've bought alot of stuff on ebay but not sold
> much so I've got a good rating.  But I've wondered something:  What 
> recourse
> do you have as a seller if you fully describe an item, and then, the buyer
> lies about a $5 item and then gives you a bad rating?
>
> Thanks, Paul
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From mgodley at tiac.net  Wed Feb 24 06:50:50 2010
From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 08:50:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
Message-ID: <F9B0D81FAAB14476ADDEDF9E1AB28465@MichaelPC>

"I'm considering changing my 57 TR3 from 4" disc wheels to 60 spoke 4.5"

painted wire wheels.  I'd like to hear others' experiences before I drop
that much money on wheels"

 

John, if you will be purchasing from Hendrix they should need little
maintenance other than spine lubrication as Randall describes.  Given that
you were thinking 4.5" wires I assume you like the classic look and light
feel of the original size vs.  upsizing for performance reasons.  If that's
the case you should spring for the "chrome" wires if able.  I have painted
72 spoke wheels on my TR4A.  The painted wheels look correct, but whenever I
am at a show or club event and see all those shiny wheels, I wish that my
car had the polished spokes.  But this will son pass as I am planning a
change over to Minilite style rims this year :-)  If I had to choose again
between the original steel rims and painted wires, I would stick with the
steel rimes

 

 

Michael Godley

65TR4A

___________________

"The charm of fishing is it is the pursuit of what is elusive, but
attainable,a perpetual series of occasions for hope."

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Feb 24 09:19:18 2010
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 11:19:18 EST
Subject: [TR] Wheel Equipment on TR3s
Message-ID: <2c3b8.4d395866.38b6ab86@cs.com>

John Reed,

I have had quite a variety of wheel equipment on my TR3.

Wire wheels from a 289 Cobra   6" rim 185s
Wire Wheels - Stock
Disc Wheels - Stock
Aluminum Wheels - 
Tires - stock
Tires - competition

They are all fit.....sometimes spacers are required and preferred over 
cutting studs.

I think the best handling tires I had on were the Toyo Proxes 205-50-15s on 
aluminum wheels, and no spacers......they were surprisingly light on 
steering.

We have used Toyo Proxes in vintage racing. They are cost effective and DOT 
approved for the street.

Wire wheels are cool, but I like my alloys on the TR3.....see picture of my 
TR3A with alloys on  <photobucket.com/ambro>   (it is loaded on my trailer 
in the snow)  :-) 

There are about four pages of pictures, but some of it might be 
entertaining.

Joe A




</HTML>

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Feb 24 09:56:36 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 09:56:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
In-Reply-To: <F9B0D81FAAB14476ADDEDF9E1AB28465@MichaelPC>
References: <F9B0D81FAAB14476ADDEDF9E1AB28465@MichaelPC>
Message-ID: <1F183CCE91074E1995023A4320EDFEBB@bboffice>

Lots of great comment so I'll add my two cents as well...

I bought a set of used 60-spoke wires for my TR3 and took them to be
powder-coated to match the interior.  The red spoke wheels on a black car
with red interior really pops and I get a lot of good compliments from
onlookers, I am running the stock size 165/15 tires (picture available upon
request).   Downside is I should have bought new wheels as I am at about 1/2
the cost of new with the traditional problems of older wire wheels, an
annoying shimmy in a 5MPH window around 55MPH.  I is not so bad that I can't
live with it for a while as other resto issue currently have priority.
While I am trying to keep my project very original, I probably won't put the
48-spoke gray wires that came with the car back on any time soon.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (Rolling Restoration)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Godley
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 6:51 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed

"I'm considering changing my 57 TR3 from 4" disc wheels to 60 spoke 4.5"

painted wire wheels.  I'd like to hear others' experiences before I drop
that much money on wheels"

 

John, if you will be purchasing from Hendrix they should need little
maintenance other than spine lubrication as Randall describes.  Given that
you were thinking 4.5" wires I assume you like the classic look and light
feel of the original size vs.  upsizing for performance reasons.  If that's
the case you should spring for the "chrome" wires if able.  I have painted
72 spoke wheels on my TR4A.  The painted wheels look correct, but whenever I
am at a show or club event and see all those shiny wheels, I wish that my
car had the polished spokes.  But this will son pass as I am planning a
change over to Minilite style rims this year :-)  If I had to choose again
between the original steel rims and painted wires, I would stick with the
steel rimes

 

 

Michael Godley

65TR4A

___________________

"The charm of fishing is it is the pursuit of what is elusive, but
attainable,a perpetual series of occasions for hope."
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 24 11:20:50 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 10:20:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR- final chapter- NOS
In-Reply-To: <25078EFE667E4CC6A10092FA7CDA440C@BobPC>
References: <981BCAF81B14430E865A6DD74C305108@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<25078EFE667E4CC6A10092FA7CDA440C@BobPC>
Message-ID: <79DE67A60DD24F88AAADBEDF94C2F3D7@jdnet.deere.com>

> As a seller you have very limited recourse to neutral or 
> negative feedback.
> 
> http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/feedback-ov.html

Interesting link, thanks, Bob.

According to that, your recourse is basically limited to :

1) Ignore the poor feedback and carry on.  Any reasonable buyer should
realize that small amounts of negative feedback only reflect the fact that
you cannot please all the people all the time.  It's an imperfect world.

2) Respond to the negative feedback and let future readers make their own
decision.

3) Reason with the buyer and ask them to change their feedback.  (I did not
know this option existed.)

4) Report the negative feedback as a violation of eBay policy (for example
if the buyer requested additional merchandise in return for positive
feedback).

-- Randall  

From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com  Wed Feb 24 12:19:25 2010
From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 14:19:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
In-Reply-To: <1F183CCE91074E1995023A4320EDFEBB@bboffice>
References: <F9B0D81FAAB14476ADDEDF9E1AB28465@MichaelPC>
	<1F183CCE91074E1995023A4320EDFEBB@bboffice>
Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425271B1435A6@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>

This thread has provoked some thoughts as I plan on changing my tr4 from steel
rims to 60-spoke wires. The triumph came with steel so I am hesitant to cut
the studs as I would like to have the capability to revert back if possible.

Question 1:
I have seen 6MM spacers being used to avoid cutting the studs. Seems like a
reasonable alternative.  I spoke to the RTF and they did not recommend that
approach but could not give a plausible reason as to why they should not be
used.

Question 2:
I am looking at going with 165/80r15 any issues seen there ?
I'm leaning toward the Kumho Power Star 758

Question 3:
It appears a radial tube is required due to the wires.
I haven't done much research yet but anybody have a preferred vendor or what
size I should be ordering.

Thank you

Peter



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 11:57 AM
To: 'Michael Godley'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel advice needed

Lots of great comment so I'll add my two cents as well...

I bought a set of used 60-spoke wires for my TR3 and took them to be
powder-coated to match the interior.  The red spoke wheels on a black car
with red interior really pops and I get a lot of good compliments from
onlookers, I am running the stock size 165/15 tires (picture available upon
request).   Downside is I should have bought new wheels as I am at about 1/2
the cost of new with the traditional problems of older wire wheels, an
annoying shimmy in a 5MPH window around 55MPH.  I is not so bad that I can't
live with it for a while as other resto issue currently have priority.
While I am trying to keep my project very original, I probably won't put the
48-spoke gray wires that came with the car back on any time soon.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (Rolling Restoration)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Godley
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 6:51 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed

"I'm considering changing my 57 TR3 from 4" disc wheels to 60 spoke 4.5"

painted wire wheels.  I'd like to hear others' experiences before I drop
that much money on wheels"



John, if you will be purchasing from Hendrix they should need little
maintenance other than spine lubrication as Randall describes.  Given that
you were thinking 4.5" wires I assume you like the classic look and light
feel of the original size vs.  upsizing for performance reasons.  If that's
the case you should spring for the "chrome" wires if able.  I have painted
72 spoke wheels on my TR4A.  The painted wheels look correct, but whenever I
am at a show or club event and see all those shiny wheels, I wish that my
car had the polished spokes.  But this will son pass as I am planning a
change over to Minilite style rims this year :-)  If I had to choose again
between the original steel rims and painted wires, I would stick with the
steel rimes





Michael Godley

65TR4A

___________________

"The charm of fishing is it is the pursuit of what is elusive, but
attainable,a perpetual series of occasions for hope."
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Wed Feb 24 12:56:25 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 14:56:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Chicago swap meet this week-end
Message-ID: <4B858469.4000607@bright.net>

Sorry to be so late and bomb the lists.  We will be in our usual spot at 
the Chicago DuPage county fair grounds swap meet.  If you need anything 
from  us, we will do our best to bring it along.  There are 2 buildings 
with vendors.  We are located in the building on your left as you come 
in the main entrance.  The first building on the left has a toy show. 
Our display is at the front end of the center aisle right where you come 
into the building. Thsi has been our usual spot for the past several 
years.  Pleas stop by and say hello. Thanks for your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 24 13:01:11 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 12:01:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425271B1435A6@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
References: <F9B0D81FAAB14476ADDEDF9E1AB28465@MichaelPC><1F183CCE91074E1995023A4320EDFEBB@bboffice>
	<2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425271B1435A6@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
Message-ID: <8DC26E94603F4FF4B546F08EFA40440A@jdnet.deere.com>

> I have seen 6MM spacers being used to avoid cutting the 
> studs. Seems like a reasonable alternative.  I spoke to the 
> RTF and they did not recommend that approach but could not 
> give a plausible reason as to why they should not be used.

In general, anyone with legal liability is not going to recommend such a
change; as it may place more force on the studs and lead to breakage, etc.
Lots of folks have done it with no problem (as far as I know) but I wouldn't
expect TRF or Moss to go out on such a shaky limb.

BTW, it's important to check those nuts for tightness periodically, even
without the spacers.  They have a tendency to work loose on the LH side of
the car, with potentially disastrous results.

-- Randall  

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 24 14:10:41 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 13:10:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] steering box (randall)
Message-ID: <692928.79869.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

In comments on wire wheels randall mentioned renewing tr-3 steering box.  I'll be doing that soon and was curious about whats needed.  What is included on a common re-build.  
During initial viewing and turning through the range of motion (off the car) nothing seems sloppy or out of shape.  I'm wondering if a good clean up, with new oil and then adjusting shims will be sufficient, or is there parts that need replacement as a matter of course.  
If Randall is reading this............what did you replace?  I've already found the steering trunnion (i think thats what its called) to be packed with rust and crud and that might have been affecting my steering more than the steering box.
just wondering......

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 24 15:00:38 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 14:00:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] steering box (randall)
In-Reply-To: <692928.79869.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9B.7C.23353.781A58B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> In comments on wire wheels randall mentioned renewing tr-3 
> steering box.  I'll be doing that soon and was curious about 
> whats needed.  What is included on a common re-build.  

If you decide to disassemble the steering box, then I would say, as a
minimum, replace the bushing, seal and peg.  They are cheap and easy, and
are the parts most likely to be worn.  The bearings, bearing races, worm and
rocker shaft can all be reused if they are in good condition.

My worm actually wasn't in such good condition, but I elected to reuse it
anyway.  Just replacing the less expensive components made a huge
difference, leaving me with the thought that I should have done it much
sooner! 

Careful adjustment will also help.  Be sure you have the threaded adjustment
backed completely off while you are setting the end float to zero with the
shims.  Then set the threaded adjustment so you can just barely feel the
tight spot in the center while turning the shaft with your fingers.  Because
my worm was worn, I actually had two tight spots to either side of center,
instead of one in the middle.

Randall

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Wed Feb 24 16:00:19 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 18:00:19 EST
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
Message-ID: <41161.155423d.38b70983@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/24/2010 2:44:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
DACHNOWP at APTEA.com writes:

It  appears a radial tube is required due to the wires.
I haven't done much  research yet but anybody have a preferred vendor or 
what
size I should be  ordering.



The Dayton 5", 60 spoke painted wires I bought from Deb at TRF, supposedly  
do not require tubes. I have not mounted my brand new remanufactured 185  
Michelin Redlines (also tubeless) yet but I am going to try it  that way  
once the TR250 is done.  Hopefully that will be soon.  I did  mount the new 
manufacture tubeless Michelin X, 165's on my TR3B's stock disc  rims w/o tubes 
and all is well.  
Darrell

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Wed Feb 24 17:16:12 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 19:16:12 EST
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
Message-ID: <3cb44.43a2e9c0.38b71b4c@aol.com>

I have Dunlop wires with tubes fitted. I don't know what type of tubes they 
 are, nor what size they are. I went to a tyre centre that knew what they 
were  doing with wires and they ordered and fitted them. My thoughts on this 
are that  if the tyre centre can't figure it out, perhaps you might think of 
going  elsewhere! I don't mean that derogatively in any way. I just think 
the tyre  centre should be able to sort it for you.
 
Tim

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Wed Feb 24 17:48:10 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 19:48:10 EST
Subject: [TR] TriumphBob
Message-ID: <3daa5.1168deff.38b722ca@aol.com>

Hi Guys,
Just thought I should post a note about our dear friend Bob  Palmer. I am 
sure many of you know him for he has been my sidekick for nearly 20  years 
now as we have done all things Triumph together.  We recently made  the trek 
to the NATC in SLO together.  It was a great life time experience  for both 
of us.  Bob has been in the Cleveland Clinic for a week  now battling an 
acute blood disorder that came on suddenly.  Aggressive  Chemo Therapy has been 
conducted for 7 days and now Bob is resting and awaiting  bone marrow tests 
which will determine the next course of treatment.  He is  in good spirits 
and a strong person so the prognosis for a full recovery is  good. If you 
would like to send him a note of encouragement for a full  recovery his e-mail 
is _TriumphBob at aol.com_ (mailto:TriumphBob at aol.com) .  His lovely wife Ava 
is by his side  and printing out all his e-mails for him. 
God Bless  Him,
Darrell

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Wed Feb 24 17:58:27 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 19:58:27 EST
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
Message-ID: <3df4b.4d7007ee.38b72533@aol.com>

To be clear the new Dayton 60 spoke wire wheels are manufactured and  
advertised as not to require tubes.  They are way different than your  normal 
tube requiring wire wheel.  I had those on my TR250 previously and  can attest 
to the difference.  So my use of the word "supposed" was not  entirely 
warranted.
Darrell

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Feb 24 18:41:05 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 20:41:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Parts needed
Message-ID: <363FDEF01961481FBC0C09DAD1D9E833@Edscomputer>

List,

I'm in need of a pair of throttle shaft couplings (folded coupling assembly,
part no. ZEO20059 in the blue TRF book) for the TR250 Sebring or Bust project.
The new ones I got from TRF today are a SU replacement. These turned out to be
too narrow and will not span the gap between the TR250/TR6 throttle shafts.
Anyone got a pair in decent shape they'll part with??

Please reply off list.

Thanks,

Ed Woods

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 24 19:39:28 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 18:39:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
In-Reply-To: <3cb44.43a2e9c0.38b71b4c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2F.6B.14652.0E2E58B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I just think 
> the tyre  centre should be able to sort it for you.

Indeed there are many things that are 'special' about wire wheels, including
the methods of mounting and balancing tires (or tyres) on them.  It would be
foolish IMO not to find a specialist to deal with them.

Randall

From jr468 at hotmail.com  Wed Feb 24 19:42:51 2010
From: jr468 at hotmail.com (John Reed)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 21:42:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
Message-ID: <BLU105-W21B9CFE4A6FBE34A9497D5ED400@phx.gbl>

Thanks everyone for the tips and experiences with wire wheels and different
tire sizes.  Hearing from all of you is a big help in making the decisions.
I've decided that I want to get a set of wire wheels.  But I've still got some
thinking to do on width.

/John

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb 24 19:50:37 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 18:50:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
In-Reply-To: <41161.155423d.38b70983@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5D.55.13925.D75E58B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> The Dayton 5", 60 spoke painted wires I bought from Deb at 
> TRF, supposedly  
> do not require tubes. 

The chrome Daytons I had put on the Stag work just fine without tubes.  But
as I recall, "tubeless" was an extra cost option.  Basically they fill the
spoke area with some sort of RTV compound to prevent air leaks.

Randall

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Feb 24 21:28:34 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:28:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Parts needed
References: <363FDEF01961481FBC0C09DAD1D9E833@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <22F1B19BB3934C91AD333071F1D725EB@Edscomputer>

Found them. Thanks List.

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Thu Feb 25 08:00:45 2010
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 15:00:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
Message-ID: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Well my 16 year old daughter received her first speeding ticket this morning. 19 mph over in a 35 zone. She know she will have to pay the ticket ant that she will have to park her truck.  When I gave her the truck for her B day she had to sign a contract with me regarding the rules.  In the contract states that upon receiving a moving violation the vehicle will be parked and the penalty will be determined.  So my question is how long should I require her to park the truck.  In addition to paying the fine.  

Ronnie Babbitt
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

From davidt at opentext.com  Thu Feb 25 08:25:20 2010
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 10:25:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
References: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B0A048C@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>


From acekraut11 at aol.com  Thu Feb 25 08:28:52 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 10:28:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <8CC84465EA94EE0-4920-FADD@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com>

 For me it would depend upon her attitude as well as how she speaks of the
incident.  Was it the "dumb cops" fault?  Or does she  understand the dangers
of speeding, especially 19 over in a 35 zone?  In your place, I would ask her
what she thinks is a fair punishment?

Aaron








-----Original Message-----
From: rbtr3a at cox.net
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Feb 25, 2010 10:00 am
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket


Well my 16 year old daughter received her first speeding ticket this morning.
19
mph over in a 35 zone. She know she will have to pay the ticket ant that she
will have to park her truck.  When I gave her the truck for her B day she had
to
sign a contract with me regarding the rules.  In the contract states that upon
receiving a moving violation the vehicle will be parked and the penalty will
be
determined.  So my question is how long should I require her to park the
truck.
In addition to paying the fine.

Ronnie Babbitt
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com

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From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Feb 25 08:43:48 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 10:43:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <1CF6FA32777842A88D23586DB40CF9C6@BobPC>

Best advice is to always keep the punishment appropriate for the crime. Any 
idea what her expectation is? She might surprise you...in a good way. And as 
long as she isn't driving, you're back to being the chauffer!

We've all got war stories for the dump things our kids did (and we did as a 
kid) while driving.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: <rbtr3a at cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 10:00 AM
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket

> Well my 16 year old daughter received her first speeding ticket this 
> morning. 19 mph over in a 35 zone. She know she will have to pay the 
> ticket ant that she will have to park her truck.  When I gave her the 
> truck for her B day she had to sign a contract with me regarding the 
> rules.  In the contract states that upon receiving a moving violation the 
> vehicle will be parked and the penalty will be determined.  So my question 
> is how long should I require her to park the truck.  In addition to paying 
> the fine.
>
> Ronnie Babbitt
> Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Thu Feb 25 09:03:13 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:03:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <96904324.9345121267113793968.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Ron,



Can the truck be equipped withB a speed governor or one of those devicesB that
monitors speed etc. and reports back in real time?



Perhaps grounding for a week and then reinstating with the understanding that
one more ticket loses driving priviledges until she's 17 might work.B  Does
your state have a graduated license for drivers under the age of 18?



BobW

Montgomeryville, PA

1974 TR6


----- Original Message -----
From: rbtr3a at cox.net
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 10:00:45 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket

Well my 16 year old daughter received her first speeding ticket this morning.
19 mph over in a 35 zone. She know she will have to pay the ticket ant that
she will have to park her truck. B When I gave her the truck for her B day she
had to sign a contract with me regarding the rules. B In the contract states
that upon receiving a moving violation the vehicle will be parked and the
penalty will be determined. B So my question is how long should I require her
to park the truck. B In addition to paying the fine. B 

Ronnie Babbitt
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed
Suggested annual donation B $11.47


You are subscribed as rawanderer at comcast.net

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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From jmcoh at comcast.net  Thu Feb 25 09:11:53 2010
From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 11:11:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <005401cab635$3f328d80$bd97a880$@net>

She may not have any choice depending on your State law.  In Vermont, a 16
year old driver with a single speeding ticket loses her license for 3
months!  Prepare to have your insurance dinged as well.  Ask me how I
know.....

John Cohen
76 TR6
http://www.triumphowners.com/701




From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rbtr3a at cox.net
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 10:01 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket

Well my 16 year old daughter received her first speeding ticket this
morning. 19 mph over in a 35 zone. She know she will have to pay the ticket
ant that she will have to park her truck.  When I gave her the truck for her
B day she had to sign a contract with me regarding the rules.  In the
contract states that upon receiving a moving violation the vehicle will be
parked and the penalty will be determined.  So my question is how long
should I require her to park the truck.  In addition to paying the fine.  

Ronnie Babbitt

From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Feb 25 09:21:06 2010
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:21:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <1034824276.9326461267114866142.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Ronnie, I totally agree with Aaron...see what Brandi thinks...she may suggest tougher that you would. Attitude is more important that anything else. 
See you at the Mitty 
Tom 

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Thu Feb 25 09:30:31 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 11:30:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR - Daughters First ticket
Message-ID: <000501cab637$dce349a0$96a9dce0$@net>

Ronnie wrote:

>Well my 16 year old daughter received her first speeding ticket this
morning. 19 mph over in a 35 zone.

   <snip> 

>So my question is how long should I require her to park the truck.

 

How about 1 day for every mph over the speed limit (19 days)?

 

Dennis Culligan/ Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

(not without my share of speeding tickets in my teens.) 

From dkspence at telus.net  Thu Feb 25 09:33:10 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 09:33:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4695.1267111594.6563.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4695.1267111594.6563.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <80AC78A3-1D8A-44E0-888F-E96568BB76AC@telus.net>

Ronnie
One day for each of the first 10MPH over the limit, two days each for  
anything between 10 and 15, three days each for 16 to 20.    In this  
case 32 days.




On 25-Feb-10, at 8:26 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: rbtr3a at cox.net
> Date: February 25, 2010 8:00:45 AM MST (CA)
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
> Reply-To: rbtr3a at cox.net
>
>
> Well my 16 year old daughter received her first speeding ticket  
> this morning. 19 mph over in a 35 zone. She know she will have to  
> pay the ticket ant that she will have to park her truck.  When I  
> gave her the truck for her B day she had to sign a contract with me  
> regarding the rules.  In the contract states that upon receiving a  
> moving violation the vehicle will be parked and the penalty will be  
> determined.  So my question is how long should I require her to  
> park the truck.  In addition to paying the fine.
>
> Ronnie Babbitt

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Feb 25 09:45:59 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 09:45:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <37338501005D498299D57EF713C93448@joepentiumnew>

When my son got his first ticket, I went with him to traffic court, not to
protest the ticket but to plead with the judge to see if there was any
alternative to just paying the ticket and hopefully keep it off my insurance
record.  He let my son do community service and it did not go on his record.
He spent a few days sweeping a parking lot at a hospital and will never
forget it.

It did not affect his driving habits however.  He still drives like he is in
the Indy 500.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rbtr3a at cox.net
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 8:01 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket

Well my 16 year old daughter received her first speeding ticket this
morning. 19 mph over in a 35 zone. She know she will have to pay the ticket
ant that she will have to park her truck.  When I gave her the truck for her
B day she had to sign a contract with me regarding the rules.  In the
contract states that upon receiving a moving violation the vehicle will be
parked and the penalty will be determined.  So my question is how long
should I require her to park the truck.  In addition to paying the fine.  

Ronnie Babbitt
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Thu Feb 25 10:49:08 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 10:49:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <37338501005D498299D57EF713C93448@joepentiumnew>
References: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<37338501005D498299D57EF713C93448@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <C34D1732-2E5B-4AD6-A86D-D1E345593D57@cox.net>

On  25 Feb, 2010, at 9:45 AM, Joe Curry wrote:

> It did not affect his driving habits however.  He still drives like he is
in
> the Indy 500.

Does that mean he continually drives in oblong circles in a counterclockwise
direction????

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Feb 25 10:50:53 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 10:50:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <75314065-2237-4495-A53B-0953F6F34823@comcast.net>

I had all three of my kids pay for half the price of the car, to  
provide some pride of ownership and the accompanying caution that  
you're wrecking YOUR car not just the parents car and it will sit  
until you (not me) can afford to fix it.  Along with that I made them  
pay half the insurance with the understanding that if the insurance  
increased as a result of traffic violations then they paid the  
increase or they couldn't drive.

I found that restricting them from driving didn't do a whole lot to  
change their outlook and it became more punishment for me since I then  
had to revert back to driving them places.

Monetary consequences to their lifestyle made a much bigger and longer  
lasting impression.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Feb 25, 2010, at 8:00 AM, rbtr3a at cox.net wrote:

> Well my 16 year old daughter received her first speeding ticket this  
> morning. 19 mph over in a 35 zone. She know she will have to pay the  
> ticket ant that she will have to park her truck.  When I gave her  
> the truck for her B day she had to sign a contract with me regarding  
> the rules.  In the contract states that upon receiving a moving  
> violation the vehicle will be parked and the penalty will be  
> determined.  So my question is how long should I require her to park  
> the truck.  In addition to paying the fine.
>
> Ronnie Babbitt
> Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Feb 25 12:34:30 2010
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 14:34:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] wire wheel advice needed
References: <BLU105-W21B9CFE4A6FBE34A9497D5ED400@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7217FE609D5748609AE69367BEFEF1CA@fred8kwiskhcfu>

On wire wheels experience go to a "Harley Shop", or any good local =+BIKE+= 
shop.  FT
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Reed" <jr468 at hotmail.com>
To: "triumph list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel advice needed


> Thanks everyone for the tips and experiences with wire wheels and 
> different
> tire sizes.  Hearing from all of you is a big help in making the 
> decisions.
> I've decided that I want to get a set of wire wheels.  But I've still got 
> some
> thinking to do on width.
>
> /John
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Thu Feb 25 13:34:35 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 13:34:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Phoenix Wheels of Britian
Message-ID: <563EB65F-BF43-46F7-939F-D976A3F0BBE2@cox.net>

Any one on the list planning to attend the Wheels of Phoenix Britain gathering
next Sunday, March 7th?  I am registered and planning to attend.  I will be
there with my red TR3A with the "Triumph Mail List" sticker on my windscreen!

John

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From edwd at ti.com  Thu Feb 25 13:59:38 2010
From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 14:59:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] daughters first ticket
Message-ID: <F12EBA124C6E064B9CF1B45E67DDB7E78D904309@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

I told my son that if he willfully broke the law during his first
"probationary" period of one year that he would be back on the bus awaiting
the next year.  He knew that I made no hollow threats, especially after I sent
away to our state capital to be designated as a driving instructor, spent
Saturday after Saturday with a chalkboard and countless hours of seat time
teaching him how to drive.  I also made him wait until he was 17 to get his
license as I didn't see the maturity that I needed to turn him loose.  He paid
for half of his car and ALL of his insurance.  I also told him how
uncomfortable it would be as a senior getting on the bus and having all the
freshman elbowing each other and asking quietly, "why is he so old?".  He
never had a citation.  My experience is to make it painful enough financially
and emotionally so that a repeat doesn't happen.  If that means walking to
school, bumming rides, or a bus then that is what really gets their attention.
Since the time wasn't pre-established you get to be the judge on when the real
learning has happened.  This does not mean caving in and hauling her wherever
a whim would lead, there is no pain in that-except for you.

It sounds like you are a great Dad.

Ed Fisher
Dallas

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Thu Feb 25 17:54:29 2010
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 17:54:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <4B871BC5.9030803@triumphstagclub.org>

Hi Ronnie,

A LOT has changed since we were wet behind the ears rookie drivers with 
no fear ...

Here in Colorado, 20 mph over spells J-A-I-L, suspension of license, 
large fine, drivers education classes, license points, all upon 
conviction.  It is usually plea bargained down if it is a first offense.

So if the officer writes you a ticket for 19 over, they are usually 
giving you a huge break.

Also, it is now illegal for a 16 year old to be driving after certain 
hours unless they have a related driver 21 or older.

The question I would ask is, "How fast were you REALLY going?"

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org



On 2/25/2010 8:00 AM, rbtr3a at cox.net wrote:
> Well my 16 year old daughter received her first speeding ticket this morning. 19 mph over in a 35 zone. She know she will have to pay the ticket ant that she will have to park her truck.  When I gave her the truck for her B day she had to sign a contract with me regarding the rules.  In the contract states that upon receiving a moving violation the vehicle will be parked and the penalty will be determined.  So my question is how long should I require her to park the truck.  In addition to paying the fine.
>
> Ronnie Babbitt

From bob at texmog.com  Thu Feb 25 18:35:30 2010
From: bob at texmog.com (bob at texmog.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 19:35:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <75314065-2237-4495-A53B-0953F6F34823@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5F26CE94E9A34407BB704CB454F7C2BC@CARROOM>

After watching our first 3 kids trash cars within a year (and get tickets) I
finally figured out the trick with our youngest. She wanted a VW Bug but
rather than buying a running car we bought a real basket case and together
we spent a year doing a full restoration. I've got to tell you that was one
money saving move. You can do a full restoration, replacing everything with
new or reproduction, painting Etc for $3500.00. (A full professionally done
engine rebuild, everything being replaced with new except the block halves
was $800 including labor)
She drove it for seven years and never got a ticket and took care of it like
it was made of gold.  Only problem I had is that she refuses to sell it so
it sits in my driveway now that she has a "new Car"

Bob Nogueira, Dallas TX  ( Nothing like block sanding a car to insure it is
parked in the remote section of a lot)


> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
> Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 11:51 AM
> To: rbtr3a at cox.net
> Cc: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: [TR] Daughters First ticket
>
>
> I had all three of my kids pay for half the price of the car, to
> provide some pride of ownership and the accompanying caution that
> you're wrecking YOUR car not just the parents car and it will sit
> until you (not me) can afford to fix it.  Along with that I
> made them
> pay half the insurance with the understanding that if the insurance
> increased as a result of traffic violations then they paid the
> increase or they couldn't drive.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 25 18:49:53 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 17:49:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <4B871BC5.9030803@triumphstagclub.org>
Message-ID: <798782.35635.qm@web82804.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

all curious.
 
my son helped buy an 88 camaro for his first car.  i think he was stopped
about 10 times but never a ticket.  he did successfully get a ticket in my tr6
and his sister's 350z.
 
the 350z - my daughter's first car which she helped buy (we got an incredible
deal on it; i was very unsure if this was a wise move though).  she babys it;
never a ticket, etc.  always parks way away from everyone.  she totally loves
that car and cried buckets when she parked too close to a column and got a
small scratch on it.
 
go figure.
 
and while we're on the subject, one morning my daughter worried out loud that
she forgot to set the parking brake.  someone else in the class commented that
if you put it in park it didn't matter.  she told him that it didn't have a
park; it was a manual.  the teacher chided her and said all cars have a park.

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Feb 25 18:58:18 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 20:58:18 EST
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
Message-ID: <37008.43850f8a.38b884ba@aol.com>

All cars DO have a park, if you park them downhill into a  
tree/fence/another car, etc.
 
 
 
Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Thu Feb 25 19:17:36 2010
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 21:17:36 EST
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
Message-ID: <37cfa.4680014d.38b88940@aol.com>

I think I've been around Ronnie and his daughters just enough to know that  
he is a great father, has great kids, and he will make whatever the best  
decision is for this situation.
But, I will offer a suggested incentive to encourage safer driving in the  
future: Tell Brandi that you have shared this with "the list" and when we 
see  her at the NATC at Jekyll Island, we will ALL ask her what happened  and 
has she gotten any more tickets. ;-)
 
While reflecting on this subject, I must count myself incredibly lucky  
than, when she was a teenager, my daughter NEVER (AFAIK) drove anywhere  near 
as stupidly as I did as a teenager. 
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
In a message dated 2/25/2010 10:24:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rbtr3a at cox.net writes:

Well my  16 year old daughter received her first speeding ticket this 
morning. 19 mph  over in a 35 zone. She know she will have to pay the ticket ant 
that she will  have to park her truck.  When I gave her the truck for her B 
day she had  to sign a contract with me regarding the rules.  In the 
contract states  that upon receiving a moving violation the vehicle will be parked 
and the  penalty will be determined.  So my question is how long should I 
require  her to park the truck.  In addition to paying the fine.   

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Thu Feb 25 19:18:50 2010
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 21:18:50 EST
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
Message-ID: <37df2.58c27337.38b8898a@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/25/2010 8:49:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

the  teacher chided her and said all cars have a park.
 
 
 
 
Surely this is a sign the automotive apocalypse is nigh.

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Feb 25 20:07:24 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 22:07:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW:  Daughters First ticket
In-Reply-To: <75314065-2237-4495-A53B-0953F6F34823@comcast.net>
References: <328011232-1267110015-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1956342620-@bda2070.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>,
	<75314065-2237-4495-A53B-0953F6F34823@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W33E5DAB3BDC8C33034C45DBA3F0@phx.gbl>

Every kid is different for sure, but...My older two had to spring for their
own vehicle when it came time to do much driving. When my youngest came along
we didn't handle it the same. The sense of responsibility when it comes to
vehicles is day/night difference now. As far as taking the car away for the
speeding ticket I'd probably cut her some slack if she accepts responsibility,
like a couple of weeks. Maybe it was a wake up call. Things would be different
on the second ticket. When I was 16 I got two tickets and the local judge
snatched my license for 6 months. My oldest boy started wrenching on the TR6
with me when he was still in grade school. By the time he turned 16 he had a
good feel of what was involved in keeping a car on  the road. I felt
comfortable enough with his levelheadedness  when it came to the car that
about a month or two after he got his license (it's been a while now) him and
I went to a track day at Nelsons Ledges road course and I turned him loose. He
gained confidence as the day progressed until he looped it in a corner. That
was the best driving lesson money could buy. He learned that something could
go wrong behind the wheel and didn't learn it on the street.  When all the
other high school guys were doing stupid stuff on the street he was saving it
for the autocrosses I was taking him to on the weekends. You'd be hard pressed
to find a safer, better driver now. Sad part is he can clean my clock at an
autocross now:(

Marty



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Thu Feb 25 20:27:38 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 22:27:38 EST
Subject: [TR] Daughters First (and Second) Accidents
Message-ID: <1e3da.fa9bb1b.38b899aa@aol.com>

Fellow Dads,
When my older daughter was a young driver, she totalled both my Rabbit and 
her Scirocco in the same winter, by using the brakes to try to stop a skid.  
 I insisted that she participate in an SCCA Autocross Driver's School the 
next Spring, where she learned NOT to lock up the brakes when she skids.   
Apparently that lesson stuck, as she hasn't had an accident since and she's 46 
now.
And everyone's disclaimer applies to me, too: lost my license for 90 days 
at 16 following two tickets.
Most of us learn the hard way.
George

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Feb 26 06:04:13 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 08:04:13 EST
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
Message-ID: <6417.71dfb55e.38b920cd@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/25/2010 8:20:03 PM Central Standard Time, 
McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: 
> In a message dated 2/25/2010 8:49:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:
> 
> the  teacher chided her and said all cars have a park.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Surely this is a sign the automotive apocalypse is nigh.
> 
> 

The Denialists have always been with us.  Only the facts they deny are 
changing.  Someday they will deny that soap ever came in bars.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Feb 26 06:11:34 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 08:11:34 EST
Subject: [TR] FW:  Daughters First ticket
Message-ID: <68b6.5870e3cb.38b92286@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/25/2010 9:07:30 PM Central Standard Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes: 
> You'd be hard pressed
> to find a safer, better driver now. Sad part is he can clean my clock at 
> an
> autocross now:(
> 

Marty, It's now time to start living vicariously through him.  (It's 
easier)

Dave

PS: Oh, if he cleans your clock what does that say about the rest of us?

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Fri Feb 26 06:39:33 2010
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 08:39:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Daughters First (and Second) Accidents
In-Reply-To: <1e3da.fa9bb1b.38b899aa@aol.com>
References: <1e3da.fa9bb1b.38b899aa@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001801cab6e9$2191a9f0$64b4fdd0$@net>

There use to be ice school in PA I think, way back when.
Now I don't know if you or your kids want to learn how to drive in 
the winter but that's where you go.  

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of GHaynesTR4 at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 10:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Daughters First (and Second) Accidents

Fellow Dads,
When my older daughter was a young driver, she totalled both my Rabbit and 
her Scirocco in the same winter, by using the brakes to try to stop a skid.

 I insisted that she participate in an SCCA Autocross Driver's School the 
next Spring, where she learned NOT to lock up the brakes when she skids.   
Apparently that lesson stuck, as she hasn't had an accident since and she's
46 
now.
And everyone's disclaimer applies to me, too: lost my license for 90 days 
at 16 following two tickets.
Most of us learn the hard way.
George
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Feb 26 09:32:22 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 11:32:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
Message-ID: <20100226113222.ALD03459@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Dave wrote:
> The Denialists have always been with us.

No they haven't.
--
Jim Muller, denying any involvment

From don at napanet.net  Fri Feb 26 10:12:22 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 09:12:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A and O/D gearboxes
In-Reply-To: <6417.71dfb55e.38b920cd@cs.com>
References: <6417.71dfb55e.38b920cd@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20100226173210.62E2224DC13@mail.napanet.net>

This looks like a very good deal for $4,500.  Ad has location of the 
car in the SF Bay Area.  Wish I had a big trailer so I could get one 
of the O/D gearboxes for my own car.

Don Scott
Calistoga CA
1966 TR4A
2 MGs
Misc. Japanese cars

________________________________________________________________________________________________



http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1616544437.html

1961 TR3A for sale! 33,000 odd miles. Though it was in perfectly 
working order, it is currently taken apart, originally intended for 
restoration but the restoration was interrupted.

The suspension is not installed, and the seats are missing, but apart 
from that there's not too much wrong with it, no rusted bits or 
floors, with no smashes, the body is mostly good. One fender is 
rotted away and there is one minor dent on the front fender, but 
nothing that couldn't be fixed with some work, time and love. It 
comes with a hard top, a crankshaft, four transmissions, which at 
least three of which have overdrive, many carburetors, and duplicates 
of many, many parts, including some MG parts. This car is meant to go 
to someone who will care for it enough to put it back on the road, 
someone who will enjoy it and appreciate it. I am asking for $4500. 
If interested, please call Sam at 415 306 3896 or respond via email 
to schedule a viewing.   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Feb 26 10:54:46 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 12:54:46 EST
Subject: [TR] Daughters First ticket
Message-ID: <19781.21913900.38b964e6@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/26/2010 10:35:19 AM Central Standard Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> Dave wrote:
> >The Denialists have always been with us.
> 
> No they haven't.
> --
> Jim Muller, denying any involvment
> 

I didn't say that.

From L1J1S at aol.com  Fri Feb 26 15:53:41 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 17:53:41 EST
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay
Message-ID: <2ce0f.71c7b2e0.38b9aaf5@aol.com>

list with reference to ebay, i like to do a poll on what you prefer to have 
 a ebay. a buy it now or the old fashion auction method.  larry  schwartz

From tr_man at hotmail.com  Fri Feb 26 15:54:11 2010
From: tr_man at hotmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 14:54:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] tr2 thermostat question
Message-ID: <BAY116-W522DA8664FB65F5D6D75BEF43F0@phx.gbl>

Hello all,

     I'm hoping someone out there can give me an answer to yet another issue I
have on my restoration I  have a "early" TR-2, TS 1084L, well I'm putting
together my TR2 gauges and I had a thermostat gauge rebuilt awhile ago.
Anyways, the sensor end basically fit inside of the hole that it threads into.
It looks like about 1/2 inch pipe threads. My question is, does anyone else
out there has the "early' double thermostat housing, whether the sensor
threads is larger than the later cars? Or is there an adaptor that one uses?
There is also one other possibility, once upon a time it had to be cut apart
to remove a busted sensor that no one could get out. Maybe they made the
opening larger? I'm unsure.

Also, anyone out there have an extra early TR-2 shift lever for the gearbox?


thanks, Mike

_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469229/direct/01/

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri Feb 26 16:15:30 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 17:15:30 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay
Message-ID: <1315350232.108912.1267226130578.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>

Auction.

Craig H. Nicholls
1972 Triumph TR6

On Feb 26, 2010, L1J1S at aol.com wrote: 

list with reference to ebay, i like to do a poll on what you prefer to have 
a ebay. a buy it now or the old fashion auction method. larry schwartz
Suggested annual donation $11.47


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From dwillner at ptd.net  Fri Feb 26 16:43:19 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 18:43:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay
References: <2ce0f.71c7b2e0.38b9aaf5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <566D6404B2E446D7BEF43E47C19F3F22@valued9cfc0b6f>

Auction

Dave Willner, PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 Victor

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 5:53 PM
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay


> list with reference to ebay, i like to do a poll on what you prefer to 
> have
> a ebay. a buy it now or the old fashion auction method.  larry  schwartz

From kajohns64 at yahoo.com  Fri Feb 26 17:45:14 2010
From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 16:45:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay
In-Reply-To: <2ce0f.71c7b2e0.38b9aaf5@aol.com>
References: <2ce0f.71c7b2e0.38b9aaf5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <95985.77867.qm@web81705.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

All I know is Jim Beam and Ebay don't mix.  I've got three ebay cars to prove it 


----- Original Message ----
From: "L1J1S at aol.com" <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, February 26, 2010 4:53:41 PM
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay

list with reference to ebay, i like to do a poll on what you prefer to have 
a ebay. a buy it now or the old fashion auction method.  larry  schwartz
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri Feb 26 18:05:16 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 19:05:16 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay
Message-ID: <34855702.113464.1267232717157.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>

Bought one car off Ebay, sent it back.  It was 2 cars merged together and was missing over 100 body bolts.

You just can't buy some things on the Internet, I think Vodka and a mid-life crisis were involved.

Craig H. Nicholls
1972 Triumph TR6

On Feb 26, 2010, Kurt Johnson <kajohns64 at yahoo.com> wrote: 

All I know is Jim Beam and Ebay don't mix.  I've got three ebay cars to prove it 


----- Original Message ----
From: "L1J1S at aol.com" <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, February 26, 2010 4:53:41 PM
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay

list with reference to ebay, i like to do a poll on what you prefer to have 
a ebay. a buy it now or the old fashion auction method.  larry  schwartz
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb 26 18:18:49 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 17:18:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay
In-Reply-To: <34855702.113464.1267232717157.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <34855702.113464.1267232717157.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <FB2C2A3E494B4D9E886230E1F965F599@jdnet.deere.com>

> You just can't buy some things on the Internet,

Of course, that's not just eBay.  I drove some 2000 miles one-way to pick up
a TR3B from the VTR classifieds, and came home empty-handed because it
wasn't what the seller claimed it was.

Never got my deposit back, either.

-- Randall  

From jmitch at snet.net  Fri Feb 26 19:34:47 2010
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:34:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay
In-Reply-To: <2ce0f.71c7b2e0.38b9aaf5@aol.com>
References: <2ce0f.71c7b2e0.38b9aaf5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B8884C7.7020306@snet.net>

Personally, I like the buy it now option.  If it's something I need real 
bad, I have no problem paying extra for an item.  If I don't need it 
that bad, I go the auction bid route.  John Mitchell

L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> list with reference to ebay, i like to do a poll on what you prefer to have 
>  a ebay. a buy it now or the old fashion auction method.  larry  schwartz
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as jmitch at snet.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Feb 26 20:02:50 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 19:02:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tr3 carpet installation pre 60000
Message-ID: <241238.44532.qm@web113310.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

i did the low cost purchase as a temporary measure. its needs to last about 1
to 1 1/2 years until i get my share of the stimulus. the carpets not here yet
but here are some questions and thoughts on installation.

what part does one
glue down and what does one hold down with snaps or Velcro? 

whats better
snaps or Velcro?

im guessing the carpet under the driver/passenger feet get
snaps and the transmission tunnel gets snaps too?

all others are glued down?
the carpet that covers the firewall will cover the fasteners for the
transmission tunnel. do we leave that a little unglued in case we ever need to
remover the trans tunnel? or do you just cuss a lot if you ever have to take
it off?

on the drivers side wall where the dip switch goes, the wall has a
dip in it. im guessing my carpet will come not pre-formed. how have you guys
got the carpet to look good there? or did you all buy the good stuff? laugh.
at the very back of the car i am assuming one tucks the carpet under the rear
close out panel? there are 2 little brackets on the close out panel that screw
down into the upper floor. do they go on top of the carpet, or under it?

that
gaping big speaker hole on the passenger side. what did you guys do when you
don't have a speaker there?

thanks
Frank

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Feb 26 20:03:42 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 19:03:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay
In-Reply-To: <4B8884C7.7020306@snet.net>
References: <2ce0f.71c7b2e0.38b9aaf5@aol.com>
  <4B8884C7.7020306@snet.net>
Message-ID: <349552.90182.qm@web113320.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

i go both ways.......




________________________________
From: John Mitchell
<jmitch at snet.net>
To: L1J1S at aol.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri,
February 26, 2010 6:34:47 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay

Personally, I
like the buy it now option.  If it's something I need real 
bad, I have no
problem paying extra for an item.  If I don't need it 
that bad, I go the
auction bid route.  John Mitchell

L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> list with reference
to ebay, i like to do a poll on what you prefer to have 
>  a ebay. a buy it
now or the old fashion auction method.  larry  schwartz
>
>
_______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>
>
>
You are subscribed as jmitch at snet.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
http://www.team.net/archive
Suggested annual donation 
$11.47


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From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Feb 26 22:10:44 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 22:10:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 carpet installation pre 60000
In-Reply-To: <241238.44532.qm@web113310.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <241238.44532.qm@web113310.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <10459A3177504775A7AB2B3B11752DCA@bboffice>

OK, lets take them in order:

I am about 1/2 way through my carpet install (got stalled by a leaky rear
main)

I glued everything from under the seats back, it should never need to come
off... Hopefully.

I used veltex snaps for the transmission tunnel so I could pull the carpet
nice and tight on both sides, BTW, I bought nice the Wilton Wool from TRF
and still don't like the way it doesn't lay well on the tunnel.

Some people snap the carpet down on the front floorboards and some just let
it lay there.  I have rubber mats to go on top so I am not going to secure
it and see how it goes, if I don't like it I will install the snaps.

Not sure what I will do on the firewall over the trans tunnel but that would
be a good candidate for Velcro for the reasons you mention.

On the front side walls, I have no performed for the indentation but there
is a rubber pad sewn in to prevent excessive wear from your left foot riding
next to the dip switch.  The pieces have a stiff top edge, on my set, so I
am assuming that I will screw the top edge and glue the balance to the side
wall.  

The rear closing panel goes over the carpet, you will probably have to cut
slits for the to hold down tabs.

For the speaker hole on the passenger side, there was a blank piece cut and
screwed there by either the factory or a PO.

That's my two cents, I will be looking forward to see what others have done
as well.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (Rolling restoration)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 8:03 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr3 carpet installation pre 60000

i did the low cost purchase as a temporary measure. its needs to last about
1 to 1 1/2 years until i get my share of the stimulus. the carpets not here
yet but here are some questions and thoughts on installation.

what part does one
glue down and what does one hold down with snaps or Velcro? 

whats better
snaps or Velcro?

im guessing the carpet under the driver/passenger feet get snaps and the
transmission tunnel gets snaps too?

all others are glued down?
the carpet that covers the firewall will cover the fasteners for the
transmission tunnel. do we leave that a little unglued in case we ever need
to remover the trans tunnel? or do you just cuss a lot if you ever have to
take it off?

on the drivers side wall where the dip switch goes, the wall has a dip in
it. im guessing my carpet will come not pre-formed. how have you guys got
the carpet to look good there? or did you all buy the good stuff? laugh.
at the very back of the car i am assuming one tucks the carpet under the
rear close out panel? there are 2 little brackets on the close out panel
that screw down into the upper floor. do they go on top of the carpet, or
under it?

that
gaping big speaker hole on the passenger side. what did you guys do when you
don't have a speaker there?

thanks
Frank
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


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From L1J1S at aol.com  Sat Feb 27 07:35:31 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 09:35:31 EST
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
Message-ID: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>

List, i have been e-mailing to the list and to members for several years  
now and with some i have built friendship with a few. i know the list 
prohibits  the use of photos, but it would be a good idea to be able to see the 
members  cars. i for one have a very limited knowledge about computers, but i 
think it  would be a great idea to have a site so that one can post their 
picture(s) of  cars for viewing. what do you all think?  larry  schwartz

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Feb 27 07:40:37 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 14:40:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay
In-Reply-To: <349552.90182.qm@web113320.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <2ce0f.71c7b2e0.38b9aaf5@aol.com>, <4B8884C7.7020306@snet.net>,
	<349552.90182.qm@web113320.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W13789A4B1BCD3C92521EDEE53E0@phx.gbl>

> From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

> i go both ways.......

Naughty boy!

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sat Feb 27 07:43:18 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 09:43:18 EST
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
Message-ID: <45e7b.65cffcb0.38ba8986@aol.com>

Brilliant idea; I'm too technologically impaired to do this, too, but it  
does sound like something we should do.
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Feb 27 08:06:32 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:06:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <201002271006.32953.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 27 February 2010 09:35:31 am L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> List, i have been e-mailing to the list and to members for several years
> now and with some i have built friendship with a few. i know the list
> prohibits  the use of photos, but it would be a good idea to be able to see
>  the members  cars. i for one have a very limited knowledge about
>  computers, but i think it  would be a great idea to have a site so that
>  one can post their picture(s) of  cars for viewing. what do you all think?
>   larry  schwartz
> 
Larry,

There is a website to post your cars and their history + photos.

See my postings @


http://www.triumphowners.com/1331
http://www.triumphowners.com/1330
http://www.triumphowners.com/1401

The site requires you to register but it is free.

There are many other sites that allow you to post photos such as the one I use 
@ http://www.webshots.com/ Must register but it is free for basic service.

There are others such as photobucket.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Feb 27 08:14:38 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:14:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay
In-Reply-To: <2ce0f.71c7b2e0.38b9aaf5@aol.com>
References: <2ce0f.71c7b2e0.38b9aaf5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <201002271014.38508.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday 26 February 2010 05:53:41 pm L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> list with reference to ebay, i like to do a poll on what you prefer to have
>  a ebay. a buy it now or the old fashion auction method.  larry  schwartz
> 
Larry,

Depends on the part, if I need it now or think I will need it in the future.

I have purchased both ways.

I am not a seller at this time but when I do, I will mostly list as a bid 
item.

If I want a certain amount, there will be a reserve.

Most parts I get are bid items. But I did get my Super-lites with a buy it now 
because they were on sale (50$) off and I needed them for my 6 restoration.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Feb 27 08:22:31 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:22:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3 carpet installation pre 60000
In-Reply-To: <241238.44532.qm@web113310.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <241238.44532.qm@web113310.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201002271022.32242.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday 26 February 2010 10:02:50 pm Frank Fisher wrote:
> i did the low cost purchase as a temporary measure. its needs to last about
>  1 to 1 1/2 years until i get my share of the stimulus. the carpets not
>  here yet but here are some questions and thoughts on installation.
> 
> what part does one
> glue down and what does one hold down with snaps or Velcro?
Frank,

I used snaps for the transmission carpet and the rear of the forward floor 
pieces.

The rear floor pieces are held in place with the seats.

I used velcro for the sides, drive shaft tunnel and the rear portion behind 
the seats.

> 
> whats better
> snaps or Velcro?
> 
> im guessing the carpet under the driver/passenger feet get
> snaps and the transmission tunnel gets snaps too?
> 
> all others are glued down?

I didn't use glue anywhere.

> the carpet that covers the firewall will cover the fasteners for the
> transmission tunnel. do we leave that a little unglued in case we ever need
>  to remover the trans tunnel? or do you just cuss a lot if you ever have to
>  take it off?
The front carpet that goes against the firewall is held in place with those 
clips that are attached to the firewall with pop rivets and be careful 
installing them as the clips are very sharp.

> 
> on the drivers side wall where the dip switch goes, the wall has a
> dip in it. im guessing my carpet will come not pre-formed. how have you
>  guys got the carpet to look good there? 
I just installed the carpet with velcro and installed the dip switch. Looks 
fine to me.

>  or did you all buy the good stuff?
>  laugh.
Carpets from TRF seemed to fit ok to me.

>  at the very back of the car i am assuming one tucks the carpet
>  under the rear close out panel? there are 2 little brackets on the close
>  out panel that screw down into the upper floor. do they go on top of the
>  carpet, or under it?
The panel fits so tight on my car I didnt install the clips.
> 
> that
> gaping big speaker hole on the passenger side. what did you guys do when
>  you don't have a speaker there?
No speaker for me it is solid.

My speaker is installed in front of the gear shift with a kit provided by 
Triumph Rescue. This is the original Radiomobile part. Matt puts them on Ebay 
from time to time but If you want one give him a call.

> 
> thanks
> Frank
> 

Bob

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Sat Feb 27 08:19:02 2010
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 08:19:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <201002271006.32953.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>
	<201002271006.32953.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <B849D783-36D4-4086-A81C-D976ACB18AC5@cox.net>

My car is posted on "Triumphowners" as well http://www.triumphowners.com/876
It is a plug & play system with no need for knowing anything about building a
web site.
On  27 Feb, 2010, at 8:06 AM, Bob wrote:

> On Saturday 27 February 2010 09:35:31 am L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
>> List, i have been e-mailing to the list and to members for several years
>> now and with some i have built friendship with a few. ...
>>
> Larry,
>
> There is a website to post your cars and their history + photos.
>
> See my postings @
> http://www.triumphowners.com/1331
> http://www.triumphowners.com/1330
> http://www.triumphowners.com/1401
>
> Bob
>

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sat Feb 27 09:27:47 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:27:47 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W34898732922E4AE560A5A5E13E0@phx.gbl>

Mine has been on triumph owners for years.



http://triumphowners.com/733




Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> From: L1J1S at aol.com
> Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 09:35:31 -0500
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
>
> List, i have been e-mailing to the list and to members for several years
> now and with some i have built friendship with a few. i know the list
> prohibits the use of photos, but it would be a good idea to be able to see
the
> members cars. i for one have a very limited knowledge about computers, but i
> think it would be a great idea to have a site so that one can post their
> picture(s) of cars for viewing. what do you all think? larry schwartz
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Feb 27 09:43:21 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 09:43:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <B849D783-36D4-4086-A81C-D976ACB18AC5@cox.net>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com><201002271006.32953.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<B849D783-36D4-4086-A81C-D976ACB18AC5@cox.net>
Message-ID: <8798C8ABFC7347AF8EAA32DA9A61B771@bboffice>

Very cool sight indeed.  

Here's thought, because we all tend to list our cars along with our names at
the close of an email, why not add the link to the posting as well.  It does
not have to be the www.triumphowners.com site if you are already posted
elsewhere.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (Rolling restoration)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John A. Wise
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 8:19 AM
To: Bob
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR- members cars

My car is posted on "Triumphowners" as well http://www.triumphowners.com/876
It is a plug & play system with no need for knowing anything about building
a web site.
On  27 Feb, 2010, at 8:06 AM, Bob wrote:

> On Saturday 27 February 2010 09:35:31 am L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
>> List, i have been e-mailing to the list and to members for several 
>> years now and with some i have built friendship with a few. ...
>>
> Larry,
>
> There is a website to post your cars and their history + photos.
>
> See my postings @
> http://www.triumphowners.com/1331
> http://www.triumphowners.com/1330
> http://www.triumphowners.com/1401
>
> Bob
>

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Feb 27 10:41:22 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 09:41:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W13789A4B1BCD3C92521EDEE53E0@phx.gbl>
References: <2ce0f.71c7b2e0.38b9aaf5@aol.com>, <4B8884C7.7020306@snet.net>,
	<349552.90182.qm@web113320.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<BAY110-W13789A4B1BCD3C92521EDEE53E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <819841.10002.qm@web113305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

i wondered who would read that, and which way! ;-)




________________________________
From: tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com; jmitch at snet.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, February 27, 2010 6:40:37 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] TR--non tr-ebay

> From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

> i go both ways.......

Naughty boy!

Best regards, Tom



________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. Get it now. 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Feb 27 10:49:55 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 09:49:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <201002271006.32953.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>
	<201002271006.32953.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <484519.75227.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

im right there with the computer semi illiterate.
i have tried to post my car
on that website a bunch of times but can never get things to take and stay.
especially the photographs.
Frank




________________________________
From:
Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, February
27, 2010 7:06:32 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR- members cars

On Saturday 27
February 2010 09:35:31 am L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> List, i have been e-mailing
to the list and to members for several years
> now and with some i have built
friendship with a few. i know the list
> prohibits  the use of photos, but it
would be a good idea to be able to see
>  the members  cars. i for one have a
very limited knowledge about
>  computers, but i think it  would be a great
idea to have a site so that
>  one can post their picture(s) of  cars for
viewing. what do you all think?
>  larry  schwartz
> 
Larry,

There is a
website to post your cars and their history + photos.

See my postings @
http://www.triumphowners.com/1331
http://www.triumphowners.com/1330
http://www.triumphowners.com/1401

The site requires you to register but it is
free.

There are many other sites that allow you to post photos such as the
one I use 
@ http://www.webshots.com/ Must register but it is free for basic
service.

There are others such as photobucket.

Bob
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are
subscribed as yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Feb 27 11:49:20 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:49:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <484519.75227.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A8.A8.15851.139698B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

I'll recommend Photobucket:
http://photobucket.com/

Like the others, you need to sign up and give them some basic information
(but most of it can be fake, if you wish).  They of course get their income
by selling advertisements, so you will see some ads, but it's a reasonably
low price to pay, IMO.

Once you've signed up, uploading photos is reasonably painless.  They will
automagically resize them (if necessary).
http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260/TR3driver/

BTW, there is also a Team.Net facility available, at
http://www.team.net/the-local

Randall

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Feb 27 11:59:05 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 11:59:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B896B79.6090508@bradakis.com>

L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> List, i have been e-mailing to the list and to members for several years  
> now and with some i have built friendship with a few. i know the list 
> prohibits  the use of photos, but it would be a good idea to be able to see the 
> members  cars. i for one have a very limited knowledge about computers, but i 
> think it  would be a great idea to have a site so that one can post their 
> picture(s) of  cars for viewing. what do you all think?  larry  schwartz
>
>   

I think people should pay attention to my efforts at providing
things like the Triumph forum at http://www.team.net/forums
where you CAN post pictures.


mjb.

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sat Feb 27 12:06:00 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 14:06:00 EST
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
Message-ID: <51d4e.5e74e2a2.38bac718@aol.com>

I think what Larry might be getting at here, and forgive me for putting  
words in your mouth Larry, is that we seem to have almost formed our own 
little  'club' here and therefore a website that shows photos of us and our 
Mistresses  (sorry but that's what my wife calls my TR--takes up all of my time 
and all of  my money; must be a mistress) might be a good idea, but not on a 
website that  already exists. Am I right, Larry? If so, there are a couple 
of web blokes in  our local Ottawa Valley Triumph Club; I'll have a word with 
them and see what's  involved in getting something set up. 
 
Tim  

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sat Feb 27 12:13:37 2010
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 14:13:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <4B896B79.6090508@bradakis.com>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com> <4B896B79.6090508@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CC85F81954FDC0-36E4-B3E2@webmail-d039.sysops.aol.com>

 I wondered when we might hear from you Mark.  I too have my car up on
www.triumphowners.com/108.  If you are still having trouble posting and
getting your car to "stick" there then email me off list and I can via email
probably walk you through the process.  It is a good site also to add lots of
other details then just pictures.  I have added info about building my own
windblocker, a few different surveys that I have taken, solutions and/or
pictures of problems that I have found and photo essays of various car shows I
have attended.  I recently have also started adding photo categories to my
facebook account.  If you go this route you can post a url that links to the
picture gallery so non-facebook members can see the pics.  I do like the
triumphowners site but wish that the triumphowners site was as easy to add
pics to as the facebook site.

Aaron Cropley
1971 TR6 triumphowners.com/108
2002 MINI Cooper S








-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: L1J1S at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, Feb 27, 2010 1:59 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR- members cars


L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> List, i have been e-mailing to the list and to members for several years  >
now and with some i have built friendship with a few. i know the list >
prohibits  the use of photos, but it would be a good idea to be able to see
the > members  cars. i for one have a very limited knowledge about computers,
but i > think it  would be a great idea to have a site so that one can post
their > picture(s) of  cars for viewing. what do you all think?  larry
schwartz
>
>
I think people should pay attention to my efforts at providing
things like the Triumph forum at http://www.team.net/forums
where you CAN post pictures.

mjb.
Suggested annual donation  $11.47

You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Feb 27 12:54:44 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 12:54:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <4B896B79.6090508@bradakis.com>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com> <4B896B79.6090508@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4B897884.2050004@bradakis.com>

Actually quite some time ago I set up http://www.team.net/the-local
which was intended as a place for hosting pictures, tech articles,
forums, even a real time chat service.

At one point I was forwarding all the triumphs list mail to the
triumph forum there.  But the interface was a bit clunky and
not that easy to use, after an initial bit of activity it kind off
fell off the radar.  And still having a job back then I didn't
really have much time to update it.  The current Team.Net
forums are easier to use than the original but nobody uses
them because nobody uses them.

There are newer, easier to use versions of such web sites,
and I really should take the time to revamp the entire Team.Net
web presence, integrating email, forums, articles, movies, etc.
in one easy to use place.

Not today, though.  I'm letting this cold I have get the best of
me, and am just being a grumpy old curmudgeon, wondering
if I'm just pissing in the wind when it comes to updating
Team.Net services.

Maybe I'll get inspired tonight at our local club's annual
dinner meeting and will approach the British car experience
with some renewed vigor.


mjb.

From trglory at verizon.net  Sat Feb 27 13:22:26 2010
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 15:22:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <4B896B79.6090508@bradakis.com>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com> <4B896B79.6090508@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <004001cab7ea$944e4c30$bceae490$@net>

Mark;

That's cause you have too many forums filling my feeble brain....there's a
team.net/forum and a team.net/tiki-view/forum. I'm never sure which one is
the "right" one and I don't use it frequently enough to recognize the
difference.

Joe

-----Original Message-----


I think people should pay attention to my efforts at providing
things like the Triumph forum at http://www.team.net/forums
where you CAN post pictures.


mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Feb 27 14:04:27 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 14:04:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Physisc joke
Message-ID: <4B8988DB.6080502@bradakis.com>

Officer:  Sir, do you know how fast you were going?
Heisenberg:  No, but I can tell you exactly where I am.


In truth I'm working on making some minor changes to the information
in the list footer, just wanted to see how it looks.

mjb.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Feb 27 14:07:33 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 14:07:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <484519.75227.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com><201002271006.32953.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<484519.75227.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C05110C652E041BB9D79850AB836F444@bboffice>

You're right Frank, it is pretty kludge and slow.  I have been at it for 30
minutes and got two pictures up but now I cannot figure out how to reverse
the order so the picture of the full car shows up in the big screen first.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (Rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 10:50 AM
To: Bob
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR- members cars

im right there with the computer semi illiterate.
i have tried to post my car
on that website a bunch of times but can never get things to take and stay.
especially the photographs.
Frank




________________________________
From:
Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, February
27, 2010 7:06:32 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR- members cars

On Saturday 27
February 2010 09:35:31 am L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> List, i have been e-mailing
to the list and to members for several years
> now and with some i have built
friendship with a few. i know the list
> prohibits  the use of photos, but it
would be a good idea to be able to see
>  the members  cars. i for one have a
very limited knowledge about
>  computers, but i think it  would be a great
idea to have a site so that
>  one can post their picture(s) of  cars for
viewing. what do you all think?
>  larry  schwartz
> 
Larry,

There is a
website to post your cars and their history + photos.

See my postings @
http://www.triumphowners.com/1331
http://www.triumphowners.com/1330
http://www.triumphowners.com/1401

The site requires you to register but it is free.

There are many other sites that allow you to post photos such as the one I
use @ http://www.webshots.com/ Must register but it is free for basic
service.

There are others such as photobucket.

Bob
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are
subscribed as yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive
Suggested annual donation  $11.47


You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Feb 27 14:29:26 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 14:29:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Physisc joke
In-Reply-To: <4B8988DB.6080502@bradakis.com>
References: <4B8988DB.6080502@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4B898EB6.8070906@bradakis.com>

Wish I knew how to spell!

mjb.

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sat Feb 27 14:44:43 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 15:44:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <4B896B79.6090508@bradakis.com>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>,<4B896B79.6090508@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W576526517BB40D41FB808BE13E0@phx.gbl>

I was looking for that Mark, but did not find it before someone brought
triumph owners site.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 11:59:05 -0700
> From: mark at bradakis.com
> To: L1J1S at aol.com
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR- members cars
>
> L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> > List, i have been e-mailing to the list and to members for several years
> > now and with some i have built friendship with a few. i know the list
> > prohibits the use of photos, but it would be a good idea to be able to see
the
> > members cars. i for one have a very limited knowledge about computers, but
i
> > think it would be a great idea to have a site so that one can post their
> > picture(s) of cars for viewing. what do you all think? larry schwartz
> >
> >
>
> I think people should pay attention to my efforts at providing
> things like the Triumph forum at http://www.team.net/forums
> where you CAN post pictures.
>
>
> mjb.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
>
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Feb 27 15:32:55 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 15:32:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W576526517BB40D41FB808BE13E0@phx.gbl>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>, <4B896B79.6090508@bradakis.com>
	<SNT123-W576526517BB40D41FB808BE13E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B899D97.7090608@bradakis.com>

Rich White wrote:
> I was looking for that Mark, but did not find it before someone brought
> triumph owners site.
>   

Well, I do sometimes make stuff hard to find.  But then again a lot
of folks just tend to ignore the information provided. What I just
did was update the message footer down below to include clickable
links to:

* The web pages describing how to donate

* The Team.Net mail archives

* The Team.Net forums

* A page where one can easily unsubscribe


This info currently only shows up on real time messages, I'll modify
the digest info soon.  One list down, about 60 more to go!

mjb.

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sat Feb 27 18:35:22 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 19:35:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <4B899D97.7090608@bradakis.com>
References: <1bd1b.5621a6be.38ba87b3@aol.com>, <4B896B79.6090508@bradakis.com>,
	<SNT123-W576526517BB40D41FB808BE13E0@phx.gbl>,
	<4B899D97.7090608@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W144AEBD0E94A0DDF0C0505E13D0@phx.gbl>

OK

I did not check the forum link as I was thinking it would take me to the page
where you can choose lists.



Truly the first thing I thought of was your forum, really!

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 15:32:55 -0700
> From: mark at bradakis.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR- members cars
>
> Rich White wrote:
> > I was looking for that Mark, but did not find it before someone brought
> > triumph owners site.
> >
>
> Well, I do sometimes make stuff hard to find. But then again a lot
> of folks just tend to ignore the information provided. What I just
> did was update the message footer down below to include clickable
> links to:
>
> * The web pages describing how to donate
>
> * The Team.Net mail archives
>
> * The Team.Net forums
>
> * A page where one can easily unsubscribe
>
>
> This info currently only shows up on real time messages, I'll modify
> the digest info soon. One list down, about 60 more to go!
>
> mjb.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Sun Feb 28 10:39:36 2010
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 10:39:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Only 4 hours left Ebay Stag
Message-ID: <4B8AAA58.8010008@triumphstagclub.org>

Hi All!

Only 4 hours left!!  and SOOO CLOSE to the reduced reserve!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250584944710

Happy Bidding!

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Feb 28 13:20:46 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 13:20:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <51d4e.5e74e2a2.38bac718@aol.com>
References: <51d4e.5e74e2a2.38bac718@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3b0049461002281220jd6b5bd8hc14a9f62b01d9f3c@mail.gmail.com>

Here's an example of a site that serves this purpose for another
'automotive' group I am a part of:

http://www.roadhaus.com/face_book.html

The photos on Triumph Owners and others are good but seldom let you
put a face with the name & car.  No idea how to set something like
this up but maybe someone will get ideas.

Geo


On 2/27/10, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com <KingsCreekTrees at aol.com> wrote:
> I think what Larry might be getting at here, and forgive me for putting
> words in your mouth Larry, is that we seem to have almost formed our own
> little  'club' here and therefore a website that shows photos of us and our
> Mistresses...

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Feb 28 13:52:08 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 13:52:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <3b0049461002281220jd6b5bd8hc14a9f62b01d9f3c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <51d4e.5e74e2a2.38bac718@aol.com>
	<3b0049461002281220jd6b5bd8hc14a9f62b01d9f3c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B8AD778.6060608@bradakis.com>

> put a face with the name & car. 

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27


mjb.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Feb 28 14:18:08 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 16:18:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <4B8AD778.6060608@bradakis.com>
References: <51d4e.5e74e2a2.38bac718@aol.com>
	<3b0049461002281220jd6b5bd8hc14a9f62b01d9f3c@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B8AD778.6060608@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <201002281618.08580.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 28 February 2010 03:52:08 pm Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> > put a face with the name & car.
> 
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27
> 
> 
> mjb.
> 

> 
Mark,

I posted a reply to your Who the *%$#* is that? forum.

Seems to view ok to me how about the rest?

Bob

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sun Feb 28 15:14:23 2010
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 17:14:23 EST
Subject: [TR] internet site for photos
Message-ID: <845ef.3b9a8532.38bc44bf@aol.com>

Hi all; Tim again here, unfortunately.
 
Following Larry's enquiry, you may remember that I promised to have a word  
with a techno-geek bloke in our local Triumph club, about setting up our 
own  listers website. His response is a bit long and, to be honest, I don't  
understand half of it because it doesn't involve big bits of metal going up 
and  down/round and round. However, here it is for what it's worth:
 
Hi Tim,

If one of the members is able to host the site on a PC at  their home
(always on, always on the internet, etc) then the hosting costs go  to
zero and the only charges would be for the domain name - those are  cheap
- depending on the type of domain (.ca, .com, .net,  etc).

Performance in this scenario can be variable as most people have a  much
larger "pipe" for downloading information to their home than to  upload
from their home, so it would mean that people accessing the site  might
find it slow.  Still it works.  I've hosted sites for years -  currently
the British Car Day site is still hosted on a machine in my home -  but
I'll be moving it to an externally hosted one this year.

If you  want to look at external hosting, there are some very inexpensive
packages  out there that do a decent job and provide near 100% available
connections,  and you can probably find things as low as $10-15 month
that would do the  trick for you guys.

Glad to help out with site design if you want it, but  leave that with
you to think about for another  day.

Regards,

Don

Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3
Ashton, ON K0A  1B0
Canada
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for 
horticulture  professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the 
Ottawa  Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and 
the  Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 28 15:54:52 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 14:54:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <201002281618.08580.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <8F.FA.13925.C34FA8B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> On Sunday 28 February 2010 03:52:08 pm Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> > > put a face with the name & car.
> > 
> > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27

Bob replied:
> Seems to view ok to me how about the rest?

Works for me.

Randall

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Sun Feb 28 16:04:46 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 15:04:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <201002281618.08580.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <51d4e.5e74e2a2.38bac718@aol.com>
	<3b0049461002281220jd6b5bd8hc14a9f62b01d9f3c@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B8AD778.6060608@bradakis.com>
	<201002281618.08580.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <304278.97018.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Nice....Very Nice!
Pat
TR4A '67




________________________________
From: Bob
<yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, February 28,
2010 1:18:08 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR- members cars

On Sunday 28 February 2010
03:52:08 pm Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> > put a face with the name & car.
> 
>
http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27
> 
> 
> mjb.
> 

> 
Mark,

I
posted a reply to your Who the *%$#* is that? forum.

Seems to view ok to me
how about the rest?

Bob

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com

From bielings at comcast.net  Sun Feb 28 17:03:29 2010
From: bielings at comcast.net (bielings)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 19:03:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr 3 Transmission
Message-ID: <C765B87405724366B03C9B274E16EB5B@bielings>

I am rebuilding the tyranny of my TR 3 for the second  time.
As I learned from the first " rebuild" , it is useful to have
certain tools. A circlip remover comes to mind.
What are they and where can I get them.
Pete

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Feb 28 18:42:49 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 01:42:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr 3 Transmission
In-Reply-To: <C765B87405724366B03C9B274E16EB5B@bielings>
Message-ID: <2072473602.10012691267407769463.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

napa

Energy Management is the hallmark of a professional pilot

----- Original Message -----
From: "bielings" <bielings at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 6:03:29 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [TR] Tr 3 Transmission

I am rebuilding the tyranny of my TR 3 for the second B time.
As I learned from the first " rebuild" , it is useful to have
certain tools. A circlip remover comes to mind.
What are they and where can I get them.
Pete

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation B $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sun Feb 28 19:17:23 2010
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 21:17:23 EST
Subject: [TR] GT6 Carpet Set
Message-ID: <8efb5.27f52572.38bc7db3@aol.com>

My wife, Carol, and I have recently purchased a 1972 GT6 and are in the  
process of sprucing it up.  We ordered a carpet set (Wilton Wool) from a  
major supplier and the fit is disappointing. There is a structural member  
between the rear fender wells (inside of the car) that there was no carpet  
supplied to recover, there was no carpet supplied to cover the space in the  very 
back of the rear deck along the rear valance, the passenger floor  carpet 
is about 4" too long, and the carpet that goes behind the  tunnel carpet, 
that is one piece originally, is three separate pieces.  It  just doesn't 
doesn't fit and lay well.  Has any one else had this  problem?  I'm thinking that 
is would have been better to have a  local shop make the carpet set and 
install it.  Has anyone else had this  experience?  BTW, if you have never 
ordered Wilton wool it  is EXPENSIVE and they won't sell it to you.  It has to 
come from a  shop. 
 
Sam and Carol Clark 
Green Country Triumphs

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Feb 28 19:47:09 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 21:47:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <201002281618.08580.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <51d4e.5e74e2a2.38bac718@aol.com>,
	<3b0049461002281220jd6b5bd8hc14a9f62b01d9f3c@mail.gmail.com>,
	<4B8AD778.6060608@bradakis.com>,
	<201002281618.08580.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W465606B39080B9C057E568BA3C0@phx.gbl>

I'm in.

Marty



 I posted a reply to your Who the *%$#* is that? forum.

 Seems to view ok to me how about the rest?

 Bob


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469230/direct/01/

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Feb 28 20:01:16 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 20:01:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr 3 Transmission
In-Reply-To: <C765B87405724366B03C9B274E16EB5B@bielings>
References: <C765B87405724366B03C9B274E16EB5B@bielings>
Message-ID: <4B8B2DFC.5010200@bradakis.com>

bielings wrote:
>  the tyranny of my TR 3 
Interesting typo ;-)

By circlip remover are you referring to the fairly wimpy ones on the
big bearings?  If so, tools for that can be found at many parts stores,
hardware stores, etc.

If you are talking about that big ol' monster that holds the 2nd gear
cluster in place on the mainshaft, that's different.  Many years ago I
purchased the repro of the Churchill tool for that from TRF, and have
used it quite a few times.  Still, that thing is a pain to remove and 
install.

You might consider purchasing an extra circlip, it is possible to fracture
the new one during installation and having a second one handy means the
gearbox won't be sitting on a bench for days waiting for the new one to
arrive.

mjb.

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sun Feb 28 20:23:02 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 22:23:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- members cars
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W465606B39080B9C057E568BA3C0@phx.gbl>
References: <51d4e.5e74e2a2.38bac718@aol.com>,
	<3b0049461002281220jd6b5bd8hc14a9f62b01d9f3c@mail.gmail.com>,
	<4B8AD778.6060608@bradakis.com>,
	<201002281618.08580.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<BAY123-W465606B39080B9C057E568BA3C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC8705A2A35FC0-90B8-3350@webmail-d049.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>


I'm in.

Marty

==AM==
...as am I (please hold your applause until all pictures have loaded). ;)

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 28 21:06:43 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 20:06:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] Tr 3 Transmission
In-Reply-To: <4B8B2DFC.5010200@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CC.FD.15851.15D3B8B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> You might consider purchasing an extra circlip, it is 
> possible to fracture
> the new one during installation 

Or two!

I knew better than to try to reuse it, but after it took me 3 tries to get
everything together properly, I did reuse the last one.

Guess what broke less than 20,000 miles later ... D'oh !

Randall

From lists at autox.team.net  Sun Feb 28 21:10:26 2010
From: lists at autox.team.net (Team.Net)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 21:10:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: tr2 thermostat housing issue
Message-ID: <4B8B3E32.50202@autox.team.net>

To send mail to triumphs at autox.team.net you send mail to
triumphs at team.net - rocket science, I know.

mjb.

====

Subject:  tr2 thermostat housing issue
From:  Mike H <tr_man at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 14:59:40 -0800

Hello all,
 
     I'm hoping someone out there can give me an answer to yet another 
issue I have on my restoration I  have a "early" TR-2, TS 1084L, well 
I'm putting together my TR2 gauges and I had a thermostat gauge rebuilt 
awhile ago. Anyways, the sensor end basically fit inside of the hole 
that it threads into. It looks like about 1/2 inch pipe threads. My 
question is, does anyone else out there has the "early' double 
thermostat housing, whether the sensor threads is larger than the later 
cars? Or is there an adaptor that one uses? There is also one other 
possibility, once upon a time it had to be cut apart to remove a busted 
sensor that no one could get out. Maybe they made the opening larger? 
I'm unsure.
 
Also, anyone out there have an extra early TR-2 shift lever for the gearbox?
 
 
thanks, Mike