From mmarr at notwires.com  Wed Dec  1 07:47:46 2010
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 08:47:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Top Gear Reliant Robin
References: <AANLkTik2vY3aCwQmq31xBqTYipKR0=Wy339es2nk3VcE@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B6B9CA1649D64A6BB8DB235B30FD501E@trigeni.com>

Back in the 60s, when I was still a schoolboy in England, one of my friends 
had a Bond Mark C:

http://home.clara.net/peterfrost/bond.html

Bond were later to make the Equipe, which we are all familiar with.  The 
Bond had a 200 cc Villiers motorcycle engine mounted as a unit with the 
front wheel, which could turn through a 180 degree arc.  To start the 
engine, he had to lift the bonnet and put his foot inside the engine 
compartment to operate the kick start!

As Brian pointed out, license grades were very specific.  You could drive a 
three-wheeler with a motorcycle license, which made these cars very popular 
in the 50s and 60s.  They may even have paid motorcyle road tax, which would 
have been quite a savings in those days.  I remember the tax discs for my 
cars back then as being about 10 GBP, which was about a week's wages for me.

Another interesting license wrinkle was that you could not drive a 
motorcycle greater than 250 cc if you were under 17, unless the bike was 
equipped with a sidecar.  This led to a bunch of 16 year old Rockers on my 
housing estate buying older 500s and 650s and fitting them with a sidecar 
chassis upon which a very small box was mounted, to meet the letter of the 
law.

Fun days in retrospect...

Mike
Plainfield, IL

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Jones" <tr4zest at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 6:12 PM
Subject: [TR] Top Gear Reliant Robin


> This 13 minute episode of Top Gear is one of the funniest things I have 
> ever
> seen.
>
> http://www.wimp.com/reliantrobin
>
> -------------------
> Bill - that is a funny clip, but they were not unusual to see when I was
> young, in the UK. I hitched a lift in one, once (1976), into Wales, driven
> by a fireman! The Wheelie Bin on my driveway today is more robust that 
> that
> Robin seemed then. As mentioned in the clip, the market for these
> contraptions were men without a full driving licence. 'Full' as in, for a
> CAR. A mere motorcycle licence, gained on a moped (another item of 
> ridicule)
> would suffice, then. Brits are very specific on what licences cover which
> cars. To this day, take a test in a car with an automatic gearbox, and 
> that
> is all you may drive. No stick (manual) for you laddie!
>
> While the Robin was, and is, a figure of fun, these three-wheelers were
> another matter entirely: *http://tinyurl.com/322dov8*
>
> ... and it look like Morgan is to relaunch them ...
>
> http://www.morgan-motor.co.uk/sales/three_wheeler/three_wheeler.html
>
> Brian in Valley Forge
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com
>
> 


From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Wed Dec  1 10:11:20 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 12:11:20 EST
Subject: [TR] Triumph Entertainment
Message-ID: <11adca.d43fdd4.3a27dbb8@aol.com>

Our VTR Chapter is having a Holiday Party in early January and we're 
thinking about some form of Triumph entertainment for a program.   Can anyone 
recommend Triumph ads, road tests, perhaps videos of VTR conventions, etc. which 
could amuse us for 20-30 minutes?   We'd like to keep it Triumph-Related 
and not too technical.
Thanks,
George Haynes

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Dec  1 10:14:58 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 17:14:58 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Triumph colour
Message-ID: <545447.8506.qm@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

I've been told by a friend that Standard-Triumph offered a body colour in the 
early 1970's that wasn't too different from 'Black Tulip' which appeared on 
Midgets / Sprites / B's. This must be after I left the company - or my mind's 
worse than I thought. Anyone got any ideas?

Jonmac


      

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Dec  1 10:17:40 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 17:17:40 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Top Gear Reliant Robin
In-Reply-To: <B6B9CA1649D64A6BB8DB235B30FD501E@trigeni.com>
References: <AANLkTik2vY3aCwQmq31xBqTYipKR0=Wy339es2nk3VcE@mail.gmail.com>
	<B6B9CA1649D64A6BB8DB235B30FD501E@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <316642.42867.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Don't forget the Bond Bug! The Orange three wheeler with a Hillman Imp engine 
stuffed up the back end and the forward tilting canopy. Best vehicular laxative 
I can think of.

Jonmac


      

From salty1249y at gmail.com  Wed Dec  1 10:27:03 2010
From: salty1249y at gmail.com (Michael Burdick)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 12:27:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph Entertainment
In-Reply-To: <11adca.d43fdd4.3a27dbb8@aol.com>
References: <11adca.d43fdd4.3a27dbb8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=TGJjqaswM5+MQdUF5a-e0_VCor4LLuxTL-9ju@mail.gmail.com>

There's a video of a TR4 on the Nurburgring on Youtube that's fun to watch -
it runs about 10 minutes as I recall.  If you search on "nurburgring tr4"
you should find it.

Have fun,
Mike Burdick

On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 12:11 PM, <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com> wrote:

> Our VTR Chapter is having a Holiday Party in early January and we're
> thinking about some form of Triumph entertainment for a program.   Can
> anyone
> recommend Triumph ads, road tests, perhaps videos of VTR conventions, etc.
> which
> could amuse us for 20-30 minutes?   We'd like to keep it Triumph-Related
> and not too technical.
> Thanks,
> George Haynes
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/salty1249y at gmail.com
>
>

From cartr4a at ameritech.net  Wed Dec  1 11:56:48 2010
From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 10:56:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Triumph Entertainment
In-Reply-To: <11adca.d43fdd4.3a27dbb8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <271546.54505.qm@web80206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have some original Triumph commercials on my web site.? If you think you could use them, I can upload larger versions for download.
?
http://www.jimscars-triumph.com/tr_movies.html
?
Jim

--- On Wed, 12/1/10, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com> wrote:


From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
Subject: [TR] Triumph Entertainment
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, December 1, 2010, 11:11 AM


Our VTR Chapter is having a Holiday Party in early January and we're 
thinking about some form of Triumph entertainment for a program.???Can anyone 
recommend Triumph ads, road tests, perhaps videos of VTR conventions, etc. which 
could amuse us for 20-30 minutes????We'd like to keep it Triumph-Related 
and not too technical.
Thanks,
George Haynes
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cartr4a at ameritech.net


From cartr4a at ameritech.net  Wed Dec  1 12:01:26 2010
From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 11:01:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Triumph Entertainment
In-Reply-To: <11adca.d43fdd4.3a27dbb8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <685656.70519.qm@web80207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have some original Triumph commercials on my web site.? If you think you could use them, I can upload larger versions for download.
?
http://www.jimscars-triumph.com/tr_movies.html
?
Jim

--- On Wed, 12/1/10, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com> wrote:


From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
Subject: [TR] Triumph Entertainment
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, December 1, 2010, 11:11 AM


Our VTR Chapter is having a Holiday Party in early January and we're 
thinking about some form of Triumph entertainment for a program.???Can anyone 
recommend Triumph ads, road tests, perhaps videos of VTR conventions, etc. which 
could amuse us for 20-30 minutes????We'd like to keep it Triumph-Related 
and not too technical.
Thanks,
George Haynes

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Wed Dec  1 12:37:03 2010
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 14:37:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph Entertainment
In-Reply-To: <11adca.d43fdd4.3a27dbb8@aol.com>
References: <11adca.d43fdd4.3a27dbb8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B2241584-BB17-4F73-BA5B-31E1F9A84CA4@blakedischer.com>

Definitely play some music from the Spinal Tappets!

Blake





On Dec 1, 2010, at 12:11 PM, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com wrote:

> Our VTR Chapter is having a Holiday Party in early January and we're 
> thinking about some form of Triumph entertainment for a program.   Can anyone 
> recommend Triumph ads, road tests, perhaps videos of VTR conventions, etc. which 
> could amuse us for 20-30 minutes?   We'd like to keep it Triumph-Related 
> and not too technical.

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Dec  1 14:30:23 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 13:30:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Triumph Entertainment
Message-ID: <465353.14587.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hey George,
     I have a grainy VHS copy of "The Wonder Years" where a red TR3 plays prominently. It is about a guy that is ordered around by the family X-chromosomes and his TR3 is his escape. The Savage guy (whatever his name was on the show...) is witnessing this from the sidelines. About 30 or 40 minutes and pretty entertaining. You are welcome to borrow a copy if you return it.

     -Bill in Tehachapi

Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 10:56:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Jim <cartr4a at ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Entertainment
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com
Message-ID: <271546.54505.qm at web80206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

I have some original Triumph commercials on my web site.? If you think you could use them, I can upload larger versions for download.
?
http://www.jimscars-triumph.com/tr_movies.html
?
Jim

--- On Wed, 12/1/10, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com> wrote:

From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
Subject: [TR] Triumph Entertainment
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, December 1, 2010, 11:11 AM


Our VTR Chapter is having a Holiday Party in early January and we're
thinking about some form of Triumph entertainment for a program.???Can anyone
recommend Triumph ads, road tests, perhaps videos of VTR conventions, etc. which
could amuse us for 20-30 minutes????We'd like to keep it Triumph-Related
and not too technical.
Thanks,
George Haynes

From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com  Wed Dec  1 16:09:40 2010
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (Triumph)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 18:09:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Nurburgring
Message-ID: <12C2F60EF23842DAB510DDAC2FA385F4@zora>

?As an FYI, when you search on "nurburgring tr4" on youtube a majority of the hits are from Christian Marx.
This is the same person who developed the new rear main Viton seal for the TR2-4 4 cylinder engines that
are now being sold by Joe Alexander of Alexander Racing Enterprises and is featured on the cover of the
VTR magazine. I have already bought one and am in the process of installing it. The article in magazine has
one extra step than the included instructions, (trimming a notch out of the seal), but otherwise is the same.
I would be done by now but I had the crank, flywheel etc balanced and it is Winter here so I am not in a
big hurry. I bought a scale so I could do the rods and pistons myself. Lots of fun.

Bob Maassel
Fort Wayne, IN
1959 TR3A
tr3abobm77 at frontier.com


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Dec  1 17:52:23 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 19:52:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Nurburgring
In-Reply-To: <12C2F60EF23842DAB510DDAC2FA385F4@zora>
References: <12C2F60EF23842DAB510DDAC2FA385F4@zora>
Message-ID: <1B6519EBBA51418DBE3B5FAD78F82B19@BobPC>

Christian frequently posts his news of a new Mad Maxx You Tube video to the 
British Car Forum. They're fun to watch and it's impossible to not be 
jealous.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
-----Original Message----- 
From: Triumph
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 6:09 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Nurburgring

?As an FYI, when you search on "nurburgring tr4" on youtube a majority of 
the hits are from Christian Marx.
This is the same person who developed the new rear main Viton seal for the 
TR2-4 4 cylinder engines that
are now being sold by Joe Alexander of Alexander Racing Enterprises and is 
featured on the cover of the
VTR magazine. I have already bought one and am in the process of installing 
it. The article in magazine has
one extra step than the included instructions, (trimming a notch out of the 
seal), but otherwise is the same.
I would be done by now but I had the crank, flywheel etc balanced and it is 
Winter here so I am not in a
big hurry. I bought a scale so I could do the rods and pistons myself. Lots 
of fun.

Bob Maassel
Fort Wayne, IN
1959 TR3A
tr3abobm77 at frontier.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Dec  1 22:17:36 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 21:17:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
Message-ID: <933755.87945.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I went to change the rear turn signal bulb on my TR3 and the old 1157 bulb fits fine and the new 1157 is too long and won't go twist in. What gives? It seems like any 1157 should be the same as the other 1157's, but it's not.
     I think that I bought them at Autozone. I haven't changed a rear turn signal bulb in 13 years. I can tell that I've been here before because I have about five 1157 bulbs of different makes that won't fit. That means that I have probably bought them from at least two different sources and probably ended up buying one from the big 3, but it is a distant memory.
     Are there different models of 1157 bulbs and which one fits a TR3?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From cartr4a at ameritech.net  Wed Dec  1 22:32:37 2010
From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 21:32:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <933755.87945.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <839457.71489.qm@web80207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Is it close to twisting in?? I found that a few times I've had to file the bottom contacts down a little so the bulb goes in deeper.
?
Jim

--- On Wed, 12/1/10, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:


From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 1, 2010, 11:17 PM


? ???I went to change the rear turn signal bulb on my TR3 and the old 1157 bulb fits fine and the new 1157 is too long and won't go twist in. What gives? It seems like any 1157 should be the same as the other 1157's, but it's not.
? ???I think that I bought them at Autozone. I haven't changed a rear turn signal bulb in 13 years. I can tell that I've been here before because I have about five 1157 bulbs of different makes that won't fit. That means that I have probably bought them from at least two different sources and probably ended up buying one from the big 3, but it is a distant memory.
? ???Are there different models of 1157 bulbs and which one fits a TR3?

? ???-Bill in Tehachapi
_______________________________________________

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Dec  1 23:58:16 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 22:58:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <839457.71489.qm@web80207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <727842.9130.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Thanks Jim,
???? I filed the contacts on the bottom down and it still won't go in. I filed them down pretty far too. Still won't go in.

???? -Bill

--- On Wed, 12/1/10, Jim <cartr4a at ameritech.net> wrote:

From: Jim <cartr4a at ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>, "triumph list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 1, 2010, 9:32 PM

Is it close to twisting in?? I found that a few times I've had to file the bottom contacts down a little so the bulb goes in deeper.
?
Jim

--- On Wed, 12/1/10, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:


From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 1, 2010, 11:17 PM


? ???I went to change the rear turn signal bulb on my TR3 and the old 1157 bulb fits fine and the new 1157 is too long and won't go twist in. What gives? It seems like any 1157 should be the same as the other 1157's, but it's not.
? ???I think that I bought them at Autozone. I haven't changed a rear turn signal bulb in 13 years. I can tell that I've been here before because I have about five 1157 bulbs of different makes that won't fit. That means that I have probably bought them from at least two different sources and probably ended up buying one from the big 3, but it is a distant memory.
? ???Are there different models of 1157 bulbs and which one fits a TR3?

? ???-Bill in Tehachapi
_______________________________________________

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Dec  2 00:03:58 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 23:03:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <727842.9130.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <727842.9130.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a06240803c91cf4c4872c@[192.168.2.2]>

Make sure the new bulb does NOT say " Made in China" ...  GE is the best.


>Thanks Jim,
>      I filed the contacts on the bottom down and it still won't go 
>in. I filed them down pretty far too. Still won't go in.
>
>      -Bill
>
>--- On Wed, 12/1/10, Jim <cartr4a at ameritech.net> wrote:
>
>From: Jim <cartr4a at ameritech.net>
>Subject: Re: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
>To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>, "triumph list" 
><triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Date: Wednesday, December 1, 2010, 9:32 PM
>
>Is it close to twisting in?  I found that a few times I've had to 
>file the bottom contacts down a little so the bulb goes in deeper.
>
>Jim


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Dec  2 01:01:41 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2010 00:01:41 -0800
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <933755.87945.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <933755.87945.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <06bb01cb91f7$27c1c0f0$0301a8c0@randall>

Did you change cars, Bill?  I recall you having a TR3A, and the rear "bee
hive" turn signals on a TR3A do not take an 1157 bulb (unless someone has
installed the wrong sockets).

-- Randall  


From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Thu Dec  2 04:55:36 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2010 06:55:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <06bb01cb91f7$27c1c0f0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <933755.87945.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<06bb01cb91f7$27c1c0f0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <955E041A04D74446B65F4D264A0B43CF@AlexPC>

Coming in late on this thread. Not sure if this was covered.

This may sound silly, but if they have pins/studs on the side of the socket, 
make sure if they are staggered you are aligning them properly. I have 
encountered this in the past.

Alex


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2010 3:01 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs


> Did you change cars, Bill?  I recall you having a TR3A, and the rear "bee
> hive" turn signals on a TR3A do not take an 1157 bulb (unless someone has
> installed the wrong sockets).
>
> -- Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> 



From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Dec  2 10:03:16 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2010 10:03:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <955E041A04D74446B65F4D264A0B43CF@AlexPC>
References: <933755.87945.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<06bb01cb91f7$27c1c0f0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<955E041A04D74446B65F4D264A0B43CF@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik7c6TT6j_WKH5htMgyHkEx6P5S8TNaSZhHrDiY@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/2/10, Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> This may sound silly, but if they have pins/studs on the side of the socket,
> make sure if they are staggered you are aligning them properly. I have
> encountered this in the past.

IOW, the little posts on the sides of the base are not at the same
point (so the bulb can only be fully inserted one way 'round).  Look
inside the socket to see which channel goes deeper as that gets the
post that is nearer the bottom of the bulb -- or just try one way then
the other until it works.

I use 1157s on those turn signals because they are also brake lights,
but do not know if yours is set up that way.

Geo

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Thu Dec  2 10:31:21 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2010 17:31:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik7c6TT6j_WKH5htMgyHkEx6P5S8TNaSZhHrDiY@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <927594279.99190.1291311081672.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Are you sure you use the 1157 bulb for these turn signals? These are dual-filament bulbs usually used for tail/brake lights and, as Alex points out, have staggered side pins to insure they are inserted correctly as the tail filament is about 5 Watts and the brake filament is about 27 Watts. 

The 1156, which is a single-filament bulb, is usually what is used for the rear turn signals (also around 27 Watts). The side pins are both at the same depth. The fronts are either single filament or dual filament when it is a turn (27W)/parking light (5W) combination.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 2, 2010 12:03:16 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs

On 12/2/10, Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> This may sound silly, but if they have pins/studs on the side of the socket,
> make sure if they are staggered you are aligning them properly. I have
> encountered this in the past.

IOW, the little posts on the sides of the base are not at the same
point (so the bulb can only be fully inserted one way 'round).  Look
inside the socket to see which channel goes deeper as that gets the
post that is nearer the bottom of the bulb -- or just try one way then
the other until it works.

I use 1157s on those turn signals because they are also brake lights,
but do not know if yours is set up that way.

Geo
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net


From dkspence at telus.net  Thu Dec  2 10:54:12 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2010 10:54:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17636.1291311053.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17636.1291311053.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <69173BEB-87EC-487F-8A99-8199A29F740C@telus.net>

Not trying to insult you but are you sure you don't have the bulb 180  
degrees off as in trying to engage the pins in the wrong grooves?


On 2-Dec-10, at 10:30 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> rom: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> Date: December 1, 2010 11:58:16 PM MST (CA)
> To: triumph list <triumphs at autox.team.net>, Jim  
> <cartr4a at ameritech.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
>
>
> Thanks Jim,
>      I filed the contacts on the bottom down and it still won't go  
> in. I filed them down pretty far too. Still won't go in.
>
>      -Bill
>


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Dec  2 11:05:41 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2010 13:05:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR MAGAZINE.....CHRISTIAN MARX.....KAS KASTNER TRIUMPH
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17637.1291311053.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17637.1291311053.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CD6062AA2F08CD-14D0-1A993@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com>


 EGADS!  I have not received my TVT yet.   On the cover, you say? 

Demand is ALREADY outstripping supply on these MAD MARX Viton Seals.  Christian has scheduled another 100 units for production and they will be available by the 1st of the year. TRF might have a few kits on the shelf at the moment.

It is important to take a moment to address the need for doing the installation completely right, including packing the felt brutally into place. The Viton Seal is belt and suspenders approach to the scroll design, but wont cure leaks in other areas. Ventilation of the block is important, too.

This brings me to Kas' new book     KAS KASTNERS TRIUMPHS    In addition to being very entertaining, it has a full chapter on engine oil leaks.  The book is on Kas' website and he is signing them upon request.  KASKASTNER.COM

9  X  11.5   SIZE
Conventional Binding
Quality Paper Stock
Bonus Picture DVD

Ever see  $300,000 invested in a TR2?  That's insane, but tru,e and just one of the international stories of what people have been doing with their Triumphs 





 

 



From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Dec  2 11:18:16 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2010 10:18:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <221196547.99499.1291311305889.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <301147.24532.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Thanks Bob,
     That is probably it. I should be using an 1156 although there was an 1157 in there.

     -Bill

--- On Thu, 12/2/10, Bob Wanderer <rawanderer at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: Bob Wanderer <rawanderer at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
> To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> Date: Thursday, December 2, 2010, 9:35 AM
> Bill,
> Are you sure you use the 1157 bulb for these turn signals?
> These are dual-filament bulbs usually used for tail/brake
> lights and have staggered side pins to insure they are
> inserted correctly as the tail filament is about 5 Watts and
> the brake filament is about 27 Watts.
> 
> The 1156, which is a single-filament bulb, is usually what
> is used for the rear turn signals (also around 27 Watts).
> The side pins are both at the same depth. 
> 
> For the front, it is either single filament (separate bulbs
> for turn and parking lights) or dual filament when it is a
> turn (27W)/parking light (5W) combination.
> 
> BobW
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 2, 2010 12:17:36 AM
> Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
> 
> ? ???I went to change the rear turn
> signal bulb on my TR3 and the old 1157 bulb fits fine and
> the new 1157 is too long and won't go twist in. What gives?
> It seems like any 1157 should be the same as the other
> 1157's, but it's not.
> ? ???I think that I bought them at
> Autozone. I haven't changed a rear turn signal bulb in 13
> years. I can tell that I've been here before because I have
> about five 1157 bulbs of different makes that won't fit.
> That means that I have probably bought them from at least
> two different sources and probably ended up buying one from
> the big 3, but it is a distant memory.
> ? ???Are there different models of 1157
> bulbs and which one fits a TR3?
> 
> ? ???-Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net
> 
> 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Dec  2 12:24:21 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2010 11:24:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <927594279.99190.1291311081672.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <AANLkTik7c6TT6j_WKH5htMgyHkEx6P5S8TNaSZhHrDiY@mail.gmail.com>
	<927594279.99190.1291311081672.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <033501cb9256$85fec460$91fc4d20$@rr.com>

> The 1156, which is a single-filament bulb, is usually what is used for
> the rear turn signals (also around 27 Watts).

Depends entirely what vintage of TR3 you are talking about.  Earlier cars
used 1157 for tail/turn, and also for brake/license light.

-- Randall
58 TR3A TS39781LO :(now totaled :(
56 TR3  TS13571L next project
71 Stag LE1473L waiting for engine rebuild
71 Stag LE2014LBW daily driver wanna-be 



From fishplate at charter.net  Thu Dec  2 16:53:57 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:53:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1157 Turn Signal Bulbs
In-Reply-To: <301147.24532.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <301147.24532.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4CF83195.1080006@charter.net>

On 12/2/2010 1:18 PM, William Brewer wrote:
> Thanks Bob,
>       That is probably it. I should be using an 1156 although there was an 1157 in there.
>    
Bill,

The easiest thing is to look down in the socket and see how many contact 
tabs you see for the bottom of the lamp.  If there's one, use an 1156.  
If there's two, use an 1157.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Dec  3 19:17:58 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri,  3 Dec 2010 19:17:58 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [TR] Spam, servers, service and such
Message-ID: <20101204021758.675EC2E09B@bradakis.com>


I wrote this for another list, but there are possibly a few of you who
here who might want some advance warning of possible Team.Net
downtime.  I don't want to be the cause of even more hoilday panic!


Anyway, here's the message:


Yes, there are still some spam messages from hijacked email accounts
getting through now and then.  I've been working on the issue a bit,
but it is turning out to be a case of 'shipwright's disease' as we
know it, applied to computers.  If you don't know what I am talking
about, check out

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=32


Basically to tighten up security and improve a few things I'm planning
on updating the operating system and all the user level programs that
Team.Net uses.  Not a small undertaking, but well within my abilities.
Currently there is no budget for hardware upgrades, perhaps after the
spring fund drive.  Of course, if you haven't yet spent all your loot
on holiday gifts and such and wanted to donate [ link below ] I would
not complain ;-)

The process will take a fair bit of time over who knows how many late
nights at the keyboard.  With luck it will all be unnoticed by you
folks, transparent to the user, as they say.  But there is always a
chance of service not being available for some period of time,
hopefully no more than minutes at a time.  It could be something
simple, like a stupid typo in a config file, or it could be one of the
cats jumping the the keyboard as I go to fetch some more refrehments
and somehow managing to hit the CONFIRM REFORMAT OF ALL DISKS button.

 I remember what it was like when the ISP I was using for the DSL line
went belly up and Team.Net was off the air for 8 days - not a good
thing.  Actually, I wonder what the up vs. down time percentages might
be over the last 19 years and 7 months of Team.Net.  I won't count the
years before that when I ran it from the U of U.

Anyway, short story is if Team.Net disappears at times over the
next few weeks, don't panic, I'll be working on it.


mjb.


From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Dec  3 21:46:23 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 04:46:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] Attaching aTR3A bow cover.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W80C87A9376CA1B82910C5E5290@phx.gbl>


I know at least one other person on this list has a cover for the top bows of his TR3A.  The common problem has been that the push the dot fasteners for the inside of the cover do not reach far enough to be attached to any logical site for a lift the dot post.

My solution was to drill holes in the middle top bow at the downside of the curve on each side, on the backside of the bow.  Then I screwed in sheet metal lift the dot posts.  It is necessary to insert the hinge area of the bows, in it's closed position, into the hinge pockets of the cover and stretch the cover under the bows to determine the correct positions for the lift the dot posts.  Remember, measure twice - drill once.  Make sure that the position of the posts will not conflict with the fabric of the top.  Once the posts are installed the cover fits like it is made for the car.

Best regards,
Tom

 		 	   		  

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat Dec  4 06:04:14 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 08:04:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Still Looking for a TR4 Hood
Message-ID: <4CEE4AB57C634961BAA6331DB6C4E395@TRGUY>

Still trying to locate a TR4 hood (short or long bubble).  I know shipping these is a pain.  Located in Orlando, Florida.  Any help greatly appreciated.
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6 "Miss Molly"

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Dec  4 06:46:30 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2010 08:46:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spam, servers, service and such
In-Reply-To: <20101204021758.675EC2E09B@bradakis.com>
References: <20101204021758.675EC2E09B@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CD61D0CA1C6DE2-1618-9382@webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>


 


Anyway, short story is if Team.Net disappears at times over the
next few weeks, don't panic, I'll be working on it.


 

 
And we all greatly appreciate it.  (Note the edited text above reducing band width).

Dave


=

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Dec  4 07:04:39 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 09:04:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Still Looking for a TR4 Hood
In-Reply-To: <4CEE4AB57C634961BAA6331DB6C4E395@TRGUY>
References: <4CEE4AB57C634961BAA6331DB6C4E395@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <201012040904.40630.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, December 04, 2010 08:04:14 am James Henningsen wrote:
> Still trying to locate a TR4 hood (short or long bubble).  I know shipping
> these is a pain.  Located in Orlando, Florida.  Any help greatly
> appreciated. Jim Henningsen
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6 "Miss Molly"
Jim,

I noticed one on ebay today. The number is 180596090001

Located in South Carolina. Seller wants local pickup.

Bob

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Sat Dec  4 10:05:07 2010
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 09:05:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4A: Clutch fork and shaft
Message-ID: <0D0AF518C04746E4A9C7D90B1F58CF6C@Shemp>

I'm replacing the fork and shaft due to a broken pin.  I was planning to crossdrill and fit a 1/4" bolt but noticed that some vendors are now selling a hardened pin.  Would using the hardened pin accomplish the same purpose as fitting the bolt?  I would appreciate any advice.

I also thought I'd share a positive experience with TRF.  The TR4A project has been stalled for a number of years but health, family and finances have aligned favorably once more.  I recently placed an order with TRF; my last order with them was in 2001.   The charge to my card was about $300 less than the cost of the order.  When I called to ask about the difference, they informed me that they had applied credits and a gift certificate that had been in their files since my last order - 9 years ago - and which I had completely forgotten about.  That speaks volumes about integrity and the value they place on their customers.

Cliff




From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Dec  4 11:25:18 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 18:25:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Churchill Tool
Message-ID: <1561242903.208859.1291487118838.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>



List, 



Does anyone know the application of Churchill tool S337? 



Is there a link on the 'net to Churchill toll numbers? 



Thanks, 



Ed Woods 

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Dec  4 11:37:14 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2010 12:37:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A: Clutch fork and shaft
In-Reply-To: <0D0AF518C04746E4A9C7D90B1F58CF6C@Shemp>
References: <0D0AF518C04746E4A9C7D90B1F58CF6C@Shemp>
Message-ID: <20101204183653.A493E187644@autox.team.net>

I would still recommend the crossdrill / 1/4" bolt.

- Tony Drews

At 11:05 AM 12/4/2010, Cliff Hansen wrote:
>I'm replacing the fork and shaft due to a broken pin.  I was 
>planning to crossdrill and fit a 1/4" bolt but noticed that some 
>vendors are now selling a hardened pin.  Would using the hardened 
>pin accomplish the same purpose as fitting the bolt?  I would 
>appreciate any advice.
>
>I also thought I'd share a positive experience with TRF.  The TR4A 
>project has been stalled for a number of years but health, family 
>and finances have aligned favorably once more.  I recently placed an 
>order with TRF; my last order with them was in 2001.   The charge to 
>my card was about $300 less than the cost of the order.  When I 
>called to ask about the difference, they informed me that they had 
>applied credits and a gift certificate that had been in their files 
>since my last order - 9 years ago - and which I had completely 
>forgotten about.  That speaks volumes about integrity and the value 
>they place on their customers.
>
>Cliff



From salty1249y at gmail.com  Sat Dec  4 11:56:31 2010
From: salty1249y at gmail.com (Michael Burdick)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 13:56:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Churchill Tool
In-Reply-To: <1561242903.208859.1291487118838.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1561242903.208859.1291487118838.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin7viYsQjOWhOo5rQV5jcapkBX3Jz+2Be9Ph283@mail.gmail.com>

It's a flange holder for removing the pinion securing nut on the early Spit
diff. I bet it would work for the tranny flange too.

Mike Burdick
Durham, NC
 On Dec 4, 2010 1:44 PM, <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> List,
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the application of Churchill tool S337?
>
>
>
> Is there a link on the 'net to Churchill toll numbers?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Ed Woods
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/salty1249y at gmail.com
>

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Dec  4 11:57:57 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2010 12:57:57 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door pull/cable question
Message-ID: <18181636.21053.1291489077703.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>


I plodding along on the project.  

I have the door pull cable but I cannot figure out where it connects.  
- I believe that I have some pieces of the puzzle missing.

The inner cable is 22" in length with a 'ball' at one end.  
The door latch assembly has a lever when pulled retracts the latch from the striker.
The handle goes through and has a square post.  

1) It looks like there should be something between the latch/lever and the handle.  (I am heading into the parts pile - I have some old latches somewhere)  I vaguely remember a 2 piece elbow thingy with a round fastener holding it to the handle and bolted to the latch.
2) where does the cable connect.  
      a) evidently on the missing connector somehow
      b) but where on the other end
      c) and which end gets the ball

Anyone have a mechanism out of the car so that they can take a picture?

Ah - the missing widget...  it will create havoc on my existence....

Thanks
Carl

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sat Dec  4 13:42:35 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 15:42:35 EST
Subject: [TR] Need TR4A Hood and RF Fender
Message-ID: <1afd6.36720ee0.3a2c01bb@aol.com>

Our current project really could use a replacement fender and hood, both 
inferior replacements from an accident many years ago.   Note that a TR4A hood 
is slightly different than that for a TR4, in the rear corners where it 
rests on either flat or conical pads.   I'm in Upstate New York and could 
travel a few hundred miles if necessary.   Thanks for any help!
George

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Dec  4 14:52:19 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2010 15:52:19 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door pull/cable question  -  resolved - sort of...
Message-ID: <12023785.28759.1291499539843.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

In this case - a picture is worth more than a few words - not sure if a thousand could be said....

Anyway, thanks - it does confirm my vague recollection. Is the hole you are speaking of on the curved section of the door pressing right at the upper hinge mount? That is the only hole I see.

Thanks again - this list is great.   of course now I need to find the connecting pieces, the springs, and the fitting that clamps onto the cable.  Is it the same as the vent-lid pull? - looks very similar.

Dec 4, 2010 09:14:49 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote:

Will this help? 

A & B) Hope the picture helps
C) On the front inside of the door you should find a little hole that the
cable goes through. I would run the cable in such a way that the ball is on
that end.

All the best,
Bill

From trglory at verizon.net  Sat Dec  4 15:02:20 2010
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2010 17:02:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Attaching aTR3A bow cover.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W80C87A9376CA1B82910C5E5290@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-W80C87A9376CA1B82910C5E5290@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003d01cb93fe$ed044f50$c70cedf0$@net>

Tom;

Thanks for answering a question that wasn't asked ..... I have that problem
but never got around to speaking up. I'm currently struggling through the
wiring so I put the top bow cover aside for later angst. If others have
additional approaches, I'd love to hear them.

Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 11:46 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Attaching aTR3A bow cover.


I know at least one other person on this list has a cover for the top bows
of his TR3A.  The common problem has been that the push the dot fasteners
for the inside of the cover do not reach far enough to be attached to any
logical site for a lift the dot post.

My solution was to drill holes in the middle top bow at the downside of the
curve on each side, on the backside of the bow.  Then I screwed in sheet
metal lift the dot posts.  It is necessary to insert the hinge area of the
bows, in it's closed position, into the hinge pockets of the cover and
stretch the cover under the bows to determine the correct positions for the
lift the dot posts.  Remember, measure twice - drill once.  Make sure that
the position of the posts will not conflict with the fabric of the top.
Once the posts are installed the cover fits like it is made for the car.

Best regards,
Tom



From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec  4 15:04:17 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 14:04:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4A: Clutch fork and shaft
In-Reply-To: <0D0AF518C04746E4A9C7D90B1F58CF6C@Shemp>
References: <0D0AF518C04746E4A9C7D90B1F58CF6C@Shemp>
Message-ID: <008401cb93ff$3249ec00$0301a8c0@randall>

> some vendors are now selling a hardened pin.  Would using the 
> hardened pin accomplish the same purpose as fitting the bolt?

Probably it would last about as long as the original did, which is probably
long enough.

But why take the chance?  The fix is a lot easier now, while it's apart.
Mine are wearing the hardened pin & the 1/4" Grade 8 bolt.

-- Randall  


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Dec  4 15:52:04 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 15:52:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Attaching aTR3A bow cover.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W80C87A9376CA1B82910C5E5290@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-W80C87A9376CA1B82910C5E5290@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikLms2FZ0pt7hh9YtEZ=-2WFqHmGb7nUNFo8x5u@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/3/10, tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> The common problem has been that the push the dot fasteners
> for the inside of the cover do not reach far enough to be attached to any
> logical site for a lift the dot post.

I had no problem with the stick cover I got from TRF -- the 'hidden'
peg is in an odd spot but works and fits fine.  I think there was
already a hole in the capping from where the original peg was
originally.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Dec  4 16:17:50 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 16:17:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A: Clutch fork and shaft
In-Reply-To: <008401cb93ff$3249ec00$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <0D0AF518C04746E4A9C7D90B1F58CF6C@Shemp>
	<008401cb93ff$3249ec00$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikw05rgxqLGCKbFi37btXRciRL=aQts7ZO+9sXU@mail.gmail.com>

I agree -- can't hurt to add the bolt.  Sometimes you're glad to have
both a belt and braces.

A photo, just because it's out there:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/cross%20bolt.JPG

Geo

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Dec  4 17:16:07 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 19:16:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Replacing TR6 Door Glass
Message-ID: <5c703.39991ad5.3a2c33c7@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
I shattered the TR6 door glass drivers side.  I managed to get the  panel 
off and most of the glass pieces out.  Now I am curious on how to  proceed?   
I can take the metal piece that holds the bottom of  the glass out now that 
no glass is attached.  It as rubber surrounding the  glass bottom that all 
fits in a groove.  Do I install the new glass first  with this out of the 
door?  Do I put it back in the door and try to install  the glass with it in 
place?
I am clueless,
Darrell
This is justified punishment for my slamming the Six door way too  hard.  
Wham, I really had no idea one could shatter the glass into a  zillion little 
pieces.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Dec  4 17:33:12 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 17:33:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Attaching aTR3A bow cover.
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikLms2FZ0pt7hh9YtEZ=-2WFqHmGb7nUNFo8x5u@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY110-W80C87A9376CA1B82910C5E5290@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikLms2FZ0pt7hh9YtEZ=-2WFqHmGb7nUNFo8x5u@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <18C7F3F1F1004BA0AEE0312C76D9BB55@bboffice>

<the 'hidden'
peg is in an odd spot but works and fits fine.  I think there was already a
hole in the capping from where the original peg was originally.>


Geo,
I know you have lots of great pictures of everything on your cars, can you
pictorially share this location? 
Thx,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



From jdabars at att.net  Sat Dec  4 19:21:47 2010
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 18:21:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: cAR RELATED----INTERESTING
Message-ID: <726753.95439.qm@web83712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>


Subject: cAR RELATED----INTERESTING


http://tinyurl.com/322dov8* 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Dec  4 20:29:09 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2010 21:29:09 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR3 O/D Wiring question
Message-ID: <32816837.41505.1291519749163.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>


darn RTF....   sorry about that.

There is a descrepancy between what is on all three of my wiring diagrams and how the harness is set up.
The image at: http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/?action=view?t=ODWiringSchematic.jpg shows how I decipher the harness needs to be connected as well as what is on two of the diagras..  The deciding factor is that the white wire in the harness is wrapped in tandem with the brown (I have the original and a new harness - both are the same).  There is no way it can go to the switch first.
 
Could the collective wisdom of the list check it out and make sure I am not creating problems.
 
Thanks
Carl

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec  4 21:56:15 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 20:56:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR3 O/D Wiring question
In-Reply-To: <32816837.41505.1291519749163.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <32816837.41505.1291519749163.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <011d01cb9438$bf5af600$0301a8c0@randall>

> There is a descrepancy between what is on all three of my 
> wiring diagrams and how the harness is set up.

If you check the diagram at
http://tinyurl.com/l9jkj7
I think you will find that it matches your harness (and the original harness
on TS39781LO).  It works just fine.

However, I added a in-line fuse between the ammeter and C1, and also a diode
from C2 to ground.  The solenoid has two windings inside, and contacts that
interrupt the power to the high current pull-in winding once the armature is
fully retracted.  Without the fuse, the solenoid will quickly burn up if it
gets jammed (or badly misadjusted).  But with the fuse, the fuse blows
harmlessly, giving you a chance to correct the problem and reuse the
solenoid.

I used a MDL-8 8 amp "slow blow" fuse (mostly because it was handy), but I
believe an ordinary AGC-5 (or Lucas 10 amp) will also work fine.  (Early
Stags used a Lucas 10 amp for an A-type OD.)  Although the pull-in coil
draws close to 20 amps, it is normally so short that the fuse does not have
time to get hot enough to blow.

The diode greatly extends the life of the relay.  It's just an ordinary 1
amp 100 volt power diode like from Radio Shack.  Here's a shot of it
installed on TS39781LO
http://tinyurl.com/2dcppeo
Although the original relay lasted many decades without the diode, none of
the replacements I tried (including expensive reproductions from two
different major vendors) lasted more than a year without the diode.  But
with the diode, that cheap relay in the photo has worked fine for about 10
years now (and is still working fine in TS13571L).

-- Randall  


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Dec  5 07:34:16 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 09:34:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Replacing TR6 Door Glass
In-Reply-To: <5c703.39991ad5.3a2c33c7@aol.com>
References: <5c703.39991ad5.3a2c33c7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <201012050934.16944.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, December 04, 2010 07:16:07 pm TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:
> Hey Guys,
> I shattered the TR6 door glass drivers side.  I managed to get the  panel
> off and most of the glass pieces out.  Now I am curious on how to  proceed?
> I can take the metal piece that holds the bottom of  the glass out now that
> no glass is attached.  It as rubber surrounding the  glass bottom that all
> fits in a groove.  Do I install the new glass first  with this out of the
> door?  Do I put it back in the door and try to install  the glass with it
> in place?
> I am clueless,
> Darrell
> This is justified punishment for my slamming the Six door way too  hard.
> Wham, I really had no idea one could shatter the glass into a  zillion
> little pieces.
Darrel,

I am not sure if this is the answer you require, but after performing that 
task about a month ago I can say is that the metal bar should be attached to 
the glass first to insure it is in the correct location then you can then 
remove the 7 bolts that connect the window hardware and then slide the glass 
in from above. Also loosen the bolts that hold the window guides. It is best 
to have some help in attaching the window hardware to the metal window guide. 
If I remember correctly, I slid on the rear most part of the hardware to the 
guide then the front. The rest is just aligning the window with the hardware 
attachments and then tightening the glass guides to insure proper movement up 
and down.

Now, my glass already had the metal guide bar attached. I am sure someone has 
the measurements of where to place the bar. Just remember to orientate the bar 
so the guide groves are facing inward.

Bob

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Dec  5 08:01:28 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 08:01:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR3 O/D Wiring question
In-Reply-To: <011d01cb9438$bf5af600$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <32816837.41505.1291519749163.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
	<011d01cb9438$bf5af600$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikFdH-1QUbQtsZjpuMBsqhoVQPMqZg0K5V1uVg8@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/4/10, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
> ...I added a in-line fuse between the ammeter and C1, and also a diode
> from C2 to ground...

Inspired by Randall's example I did this too.

The fuse can be added w/o cutting into the harness --

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/SF_Fig_1.jpg
http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/SF_Fig_2.jpg
http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/SF_Fig_3.jpg

I also added the mentioned diode.  No photo handy but this shows how
it goes (red is the added diode, the rest of the diagram may be at
variance with yours as it is for a TR4):

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/OD%20Diode.JPG

Geo

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sun Dec  5 08:06:08 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 09:06:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] Replacing TR6 Door Glass
In-Reply-To: <5c703.39991ad5.3a2c33c7@aol.com>
References: <5c703.39991ad5.3a2c33c7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <27A1A8AF-5F5C-4488-A70C-94CF60D8A963@genfiniti.com>

Sorry to hear that.

However, your timing is excellent, as I just restored the doors on my TR4A, so this is fresh on my mind.

You have some trade-offs.

Option 1 - Take glass out of metal base.  Fit new piece of glass through upper door seals, and into metal base.  If you go this route, you may not be able to exert enough force to get the glass to seat into the base using the glazing strip that goes between them.  However, with a glazing piece of the right thickness, you might get this to work fine.  Too thick a piece, and forget it.  But try this first.

Option 2 - Remove the metal base from the door.  Also remove the two top door seals.  Place the new glass into the metal base with glazing strip on the workbench.  Because it is out of the door, you'll be able to exert enough force to get it to seat very tight, using a thicker glazing strip.  Then, place it into the door allowing it to fall all the way to the bottom of the door.  DO NOT place it in the regulator yet. (You may have to loosen the window track pieces to pull this off.)  With the glass resting in the door, refit the door seals.  Then get the glass up through the seals, back into the tracks, back into the regulator.

Both options revolve around the glazing strip of choice.  You can use a thinner piece and have a decent seat, but not really "tight", and avoid a lot of work.  Or, use a thicker piece, have a tight seal, and do a lot of extra work, because the metal base will not fit back into the door with the upper seals in place.

Hope this helps.

On Dec 4, 2010, at 6:16 PM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:

> Hey Guys,
> I shattered the TR6 door glass drivers side.  I managed to get the  panel 
> off and most of the glass pieces out.  Now I am curious on how to  proceed?   
> I can take the metal piece that holds the bottom of  the glass out now that 
> no glass is attached.  It as rubber surrounding the  glass bottom that all 
> fits in a groove.  Do I install the new glass first  with this out of the 
> door?  Do I put it back in the door and try to install  the glass with it in 
> place?
> I am clueless,
> Darrell
> This is justified punishment for my slamming the Six door way too  hard.  
> Wham, I really had no idea one could shatter the glass into a  zillion little 
> pieces.
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com
> 



From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Dec  5 08:12:20 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 10:12:20 EST
Subject: [TR] TR4A: Clutch fork and shaft
Message-ID: <3f457.1ecccb37.3a2d05d4@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/4/2010 11:29:14 AM Central Standard Time, 
cliff_hansen at earthlink.net writes: 
> I also thought I'd share a positive experience with TRF.  The TR4A 
> project has been stalled for a number of years but health, family and finances 
> have aligned favorably once more.  I recently placed an order with TRF; my 
> last order with them was in 2001.   The charge to my card was about $300 less 
> than the cost of the order.  When I called to ask about the difference, 
> they informed me that they had applied credits and a gift certificate that 
> had been in their files since my last order - 9 years ago - and which I had 
> completely forgotten about.  That speaks volumes about integrity and the 
> value they place on their customers.
> 

I would have to echo that sentiment.  Last summer I signed up for summer 
party.  But a last minute business meeting prevented me from attending.  I 
wrote my registration off as a donation and thought nothing more of it.  

A friend of mine picked up my T-shirt and dash plaque.

A few weeks later I recieved a note from TRF crediting me the registration 
against any future orders (since redeemed) and another dash plaque.

Above and beyond.

Dave

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Dec  5 09:18:31 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2010 10:18:31 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  Fwd: TR3 O/D Wiring question
Message-ID: <23105369.56903.1291565911551.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

Thanks Randall -

However...
The diagram you reference matches the right side of my image which is the 
wiring diagram. The two harnesses I have do not match that but for the 
wires to connect would have to be similar to the left side image and that 
doesn't look right to me. the only variation would be that W1 & W2 could 
be swapped. It looks like the relay would always be 'hot'.

Revised schematic at:
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/ODWiringSchematicv2.jpg 
I added a representation of the wiring harness layout.  You can see what I 
mean about the brown & white seem to go to the same place.  
The 'device boxes' match the left side of my diagram.

As you may remember, I am adding a Lucas 25a fused line between A (Control 
Box to Ammeter) to an Accessory Plug circuit. See:
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/fog-spotschematicv2.jpg
Do you see any reason that I cannot reroute the C1 feed to that line/connection? 
I can add a piece in the new fog/spot/acc harness to where the o/d harness can 
connect to it. That would be another case of cleaning up the spaghetti... 
(Your OD diagram has the C1 going to A)

I show that the o/d solenoid comes off of C2. do you piggyback a ground 
connection from that terminal? That looks like what you have but just 
confirming..

Thanks again.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2010 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: TR3 O/D Wiring question


>> There is a descrepancy between what is on all three of my
>> wiring diagrams and how the harness is set up.
>
> If you check the diagram at
> http://tinyurl.com/l9jkj7
> I think you will find that it matches your harness (and the original 
> harness
> on TS39781LO). It works just fine.
>
> However, I added a in-line fuse between the ammeter and C1, and also a 
> diode from C2 to ground. 
<SNIP>
>
> I used a MDL-8 8 amp "slow blow"  
<SNIP>.
>
> The diode greatly extends the life of the relay. It's just an ordinary 1
> amp 100 volt power diode like from Radio Shack. Here's a shot of it
> installed on TS39781LO http://tinyurl.com/2dcppeo
<SNIP>
> -- Randall

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec  5 10:49:00 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 09:49:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  Fwd: TR3 O/D Wiring question
In-Reply-To: <23105369.56903.1291565911551.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <23105369.56903.1291565911551.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <018f01cb94a4$b2eb3ee0$0301a8c0@randall>

> The diagram you reference matches the right side of my image 
> which is the wiring diagram.

Sorry, my mistake.  Apparently your harness follows the diagram from the
workshop manual:
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260/TR3driver/Manual%20pages/ODwiringfr
omBentley.jpg
and the diagram that Geo posted (which I believe is from the TR4 owner's
manual).  Either way will work fine.

> It looks like the relay would always be 'hot'

Not sure I follow you here.  One of the relay contacts always gets power,
but as long as the coil does not get both power and ground, the contacts
should remain open and the OD disengaged.

> Do you see any reason that I cannot reroute the C1 feed to 
> that line/connection? 

That would probably work, but my preference is for a separate fuse for the
OD solenoid.  Using a fuse that is shared with other circuits means there is
significant variation in the current "available" to the OD solenoid; which
introduces the possibility of either nuisance blowing when the other
circuits are drawing power, or the fuse not blowing (fast enough) when the
solenoid contacts fail to open.  Also, if the fuse does blow for no apparent
reason, you don't know as much about where the problem is, whether it's an
intermittent short in the lights or in the wires to the OD or the wrong fuse
size.  Your choice of course, just my $.02.

> I show that the o/d solenoid comes off of C2. do you 
> piggyback a ground 
> connection from that terminal? That looks like what you have but just 
> confirming..

Yeah, that was easiest for me.  It was originally just an experiment, so I
used a "quick and dirty" connection:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103503
But it worked out well, so I left it that way.

Note that the diode polarity needs to be opposite to your chosen ground
polarity.  IOW if you are keeping your car positive ground, connect the
cathode (end with the stripe) of the diode to ground (as Geo showed).  If
you are using negative ground, connect the other (anode) end to ground.

-- Randall  


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Dec  5 11:58:00 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 11:58:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Attaching aTR3A bow cover.
In-Reply-To: <18C7F3F1F1004BA0AEE0312C76D9BB55@bboffice>
References: <BAY110-W80C87A9376CA1B82910C5E5290@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikLms2FZ0pt7hh9YtEZ=-2WFqHmGb7nUNFo8x5u@mail.gmail.com>
	<18C7F3F1F1004BA0AEE0312C76D9BB55@bboffice>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikgV=FA5DgUrAsZ+ACssPZQ5sFkAqkUBP9bXMQa@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/4/10, wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
>> the 'hidden' peg is in an odd spot but works and fits fine.
>
> ...can you pictorially share this location?

Here is where the inny peg is on mine:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%201.JPG

To use it the female LTD is installed upside down & inside out:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%202.JPG

I almost never undo that fastener since when I use the tonneau I just
undo the rest of the stick cover and let it hang down back there.  I
do use a combination of towels & foam to take up some of the slack in
the fitted cover:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%203.JPG

Stick cover in place:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%204.JPG

Geo

From carlsereda at aol.com  Sun Dec  5 12:08:26 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2010 11:08:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 535
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18104.1291561551.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <9AC4ED78.9CBB.4C41.B406.45B7CEE4379D@aol.com>

Hi Listers,
If on a TR clutch throwbout fork you are going to install a grade 8 
bolt in addition to the hardened pin would the best position for the 
bolt be under the opposite fork from the side with the hardended pin? 
The photo below shows a bolt dead center - just seems might be better 
under the fork like the other side that is pinned..
Any thoughts on best position of grade 8 bolt?
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

I agree -- can't hurt to add the bolt. Sometimes you're glad to have
both a belt and braces.

A photo, just because it's out there:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/cross%20bolt.JPG


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec  5 17:55:35 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 16:55:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 535
In-Reply-To: <9AC4ED78.9CBB.4C41.B406.45B7CEE4379D@aol.com>
References: <mailman.18104.1291561551.22018.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<9AC4ED78.9CBB.4C41.B406.45B7CEE4379D@aol.com>
Message-ID: <01be01cb94e0$4acaf030$0301a8c0@randall>

> Any thoughts on best position of grade 8 bolt?

On the forks I've used, there was a boss in the center, making it easier to
drill there and the final assembly stronger.  I can't see any advantage to
putting it to the side (although it would probably work just well).

My initial thought was to leave out the taper pin and only use the bolt; but
since I had to buy a new pin anyway (to hold the shaft & fork in the proper
relationship while drilling the new hole), I went ahead and installed it.

As I think Nelson mentioned, I selected a bolt with a shank that would go
almost all the way through, and drilled the hole slightly undersize so it
was a tight fit.  Afterwards, I cut off the exposed end of the bolt, so it
couldn't foul on the gearbox.

-- Randall  


From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Dec  5 20:37:55 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 19:37:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] figure 8 sealant
Message-ID: <798099.50406.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

just a quick question.  Using a permatex sealent for the bottom of the figure 8 
gaskets has been mentioned on the list in the past but I neglected to remember 
specifically what type.  Looking over the numerous offerings results in 
confusion so if someone could suggest specifically what to use I would be 
forever gracious!
thanks
gary n.


      

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec  5 21:34:12 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 20:34:12 -0800
Subject: [TR] figure 8 sealant
In-Reply-To: <798099.50406.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <798099.50406.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <01d401cb94fe$d55b8520$0301a8c0@randall>

> Looking over the numerous offerings 
> results in 
> confusion

Probably as many different opinions on that, as what fluif to put in
trunnions!

Personally, I use the 'classic' Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket, aka
Permatex #3.  Don't know that it's any better (or even as good) as others,
that's just what I've always used there and I've never had a leak.

-- Randall  


From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Dec  6 07:51:56 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 09:51:56 EST
Subject: [TR] Lucar/Luclar Connector Cleaning Brushes
Message-ID: <158d49.25ec9d91.3a2e528c@aol.com>

List,
 
Does anyone know if Gerry from GEM Enterprises is still in business?   
Among other things, he was selling a pair of wire brushes for cleaning  
Lucar/Luclar connectors at his website: GEM-Enterprises.net.  The site now  seems to 
be a resume writing business??
 
I bought the pair of wire brushes 2 years ago (part# MG105)....a friend  
wants to order a pair for some work he's doing on his 3.
 
Thanks,
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U

From wfkrebs at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  6 09:31:01 2010
From: wfkrebs at yahoo.com (Bill Krebs)
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 08:31:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] scuttle vent spring
Message-ID: <661098.18139.qm@web114420.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I checked the archives before posting this...does anyone have a photo of how to 
position the spring?? My TR3 never had one and the one from Moss didn't have any 
??? ??? ??? instructions...the catalog shows a certain orientation but I can't 
for the life of me figure out how it works.?? TIA? Bill Krebs


      

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec  6 10:14:50 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 09:14:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] Lucar/Luclar Connector Cleaning Brushes
In-Reply-To: <158d49.25ec9d91.3a2e528c@aol.com>
References: <158d49.25ec9d91.3a2e528c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <074701cb9569$1a50f8d0$4ef2ea70$@rr.com>

> I bought the pair of wire brushes 2 years ago (part# MG105)....a friend
> wants to order a pair for some work he's doing on his 3.

I can't answer your question, Chip, but there are lots of sources for
brushes:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tube-brushes/=a14lbi

-- Randall 


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Dec  6 10:56:38 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 06 Dec 2010 11:56:38 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] scuttle vent spring
Message-ID: <1306561065.127163.1291658198619.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>


I just sent 4 images directly to Bill.  
Bill confirm receipt as I didn't check the size.

If you don't get them, I can post to photobucket.
C


Dec 6, 2010 04:49:21 PM, wfkrebs at yahoo.com wrote:

I checked the archives before posting this...does anyone have a photo of how to 
position the spring?  My TR3 never had one and the one from Moss didn't have any 
            instructions...the catalog shows a certain orientation but I can't 
for the life of me figure out how it works.   TIA  Bill Krebs



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From adcronin at mi.rr.com  Mon Dec  6 15:10:44 2010
From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin)
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 17:10:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas Tank Sealer ?
Message-ID: <EC6EFD3C-150C-4992-BD2C-D92CCD58DBB7@mi.rr.com>

Back in 1997 (13 years ago) I had an AL gas tank sealed at a body shop with whatever was the trick sealer at the time.  With the increased use of blended fuels today (and growing) I am curious what those with knowledge of this subject think should be done now.........the tank has never been placed in service but I am hopefull it will in the next year or so.
Dan

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Dec  7 20:49:41 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2010 19:49:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 liners
Message-ID: <937806.77565.qm@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I've set my liners into the block with permatex and temporarily bolted them down 
in several places with the head bolts and spacers and around 10lbs of torque.  
Upon measuring I've found all along the distributor side of the block I'm at 
.006 or .007 above the block deck on each liner.  The other side is within the 
.005 on at least two liners with the other two being around the .006 number. 
This is too high according to the book which recommends .003-.005.

I had measured them before (with figure 8 gaskets in) and thought I was ok but 
apparently not.  My question is what now?  I'm thinking maybe I should be 
installing the head and torqueing the head down to specs.............then taking 
the head off and measuring after that..........maybe the increased torque would 
smash the figure 8 gaskets more accurately.  


If I cannot get the liners within specs is this handled with a special head 
gasket or by milling down the top of the liners?  My machinist marked my liners 
but upon cleaning up we could not find the marks so they are not in the original 
holes.  They've been honed and i'm assuming they can be fit anywhere......is 
that accurate?

thanks to all!

gary n.


      

From opposumking at verizon.net  Tue Dec  7 06:45:55 2010
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Tue, 07 Dec 2010 08:45:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lucar/Luclar Connector Cleaning Brushes
References: <158d49.25ec9d91.3a2e528c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DD721AC26CF9418F971E2EDDAC63EC9D@mde.state.md.us>

An alternative from an MG forum:

OK, Guys, you know those damned Luclar connecters, the ones that are 
impossible to clean once they get a bit of corrosion in them? Well, I've got 
a way to clean them up so you can replace them at your leasier. Brownells, 
the gunsmith people, sell a trio of brushes designed to clean gas ports on 
shotguns. They come in two sizes but the ones I use are #084-454-203, and 
are 0.187 in dia with stainless bristles. They are 6" or so long with a 
twisted wire handle. I bend a 90 degree bend in the handle so I can twril 
them in the female connecter. The handle could be shortened and used in a 
cordless drill if you have some way to hold the connecter. One of these 
brushes should be in every onboard tool kit! BTW, I use my finger coated 
with vasiline to put a coating on the male and female connectors to keep the 
corrosion from coming back. Vasiline works on light bulb bases, too!
Brownells web site- http://www.brownells.com/Index.html



From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Dec  8 23:55:01 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 09 Dec 2010 00:55:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] tr-3 liners
In-Reply-To: <937806.77565.qm@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <937806.77565.qm@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20101209065435.A9DB518763E@autox.team.net>

Sealants add to the deck height - using a minimal amount and having 
something that is isn't a thick compound helps.  I use gasgacinch, 
mainly because that's what I also use for the head gasket.  It's 
pretty thin too.  You can pretty easily make your own figure 8 
gaskets from brass shim stock in whatever thickness you need - that's 
the easiest way around the issue.  And you really just make 4 o 
shaped gaskets, they don't need to be figure 8.  You can cut them out 
with common scissors (carefully).  You may want to try assembling the 
head to the current assembly without a gasket and torquing to 40 lbs 
or something - there's definitely a very slight chance that they will 
further compress.

Do the alternate lower gaskets before looking at altering the 
liners.  It is possible to shorten the liners slightly - the best way 
is emery cloth taped to a piece of glass, swirl the top of the liner 
on the emery - kind of a fig 8 pattern.  Impossible to undo, and easy 
to get one side shorter than the other, then you're looking at new liners.

- Tony Drews

At 09:49 PM 12/7/2010, Gary Nafziger wrote:
>I've set my liners into the block with permatex and temporarily 
>bolted them down
>in several places with the head bolts and spacers and around 10lbs 
>of torque.
>Upon measuring I've found all along the distributor side of the block I'm at
>.006 or .007 above the block deck on each liner.  The other side is 
>within the
>.005 on at least two liners with the other two being around the .006 number.
>This is too high according to the book which recommends .003-.005.
>
>I had measured them before (with figure 8 gaskets in) and thought I 
>was ok but
>apparently not.  My question is what now?  I'm thinking maybe I should be
>installing the head and torqueing the head down to 
>specs.............then taking
>the head off and measuring after that..........maybe the increased 
>torque would
>smash the figure 8 gaskets more accurately.
>
>
>If I cannot get the liners within specs is this handled with a special head
>gasket or by milling down the top of the liners?  My machinist 
>marked my liners
>but upon cleaning up we could not find the marks so they are not in 
>the original
>holes.  They've been honed and i'm assuming they can be fit anywhere......is
>that accurate?
>
>thanks to all!
>
>gary n.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Manage your account: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com



From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Dec  9 10:35:51 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 12:35:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
Message-ID: <AANLkTik-CraQ7og=6SiZ3QtC+92pmFKyTcpRdFP6TJnN@mail.gmail.com>

In the next week or so I am going to have to ship a TR4 head off for
repairs.  Would anyone happen to know the weight of a head with valves
installed?

Thanks,

Brad
1963 TR4

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Dec  9 13:34:15 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 12:34:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Gas Tank Sealer ?
Message-ID: <925225.27420.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi Dan,
     I am not sure why you would need to seal an aluminum tank, assuming that's what AL means...
     I recently flushed out my TR3 tank with a product from KBS coatings and was very satisfied. I used their pre-treatment to clean out all of the gunk and then sealed it up with the coating, which is a nice aluminum color. Very satisfied. I used the "motorcycle" sized kit.

     Bill in Tehachapi

From: Dan Cronin <adcronin at mi.rr.com>
Subject: [TR] Gas Tank Sealer ?
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>,    Friends of Triumph Triumph
    <fot at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <EC6EFD3C-150C-4992-BD2C-D92CCD58DBB7 at mi.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=us-ascii

Back in 1997 (13 years ago) I had an AL gas tank sealed at a body shop with whatever was the trick sealer at the time.  With the increased use of blended fuels today (and growing) I am curious what those with knowledge of this subject think should be done now.........the tank has never been placed in service but I am hopefull it will in the next year or so.
Dan


From aljlthomson at charter.net  Thu Dec  9 14:06:38 2010
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 16:06:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas Tank Sealer ?
References: <EC6EFD3C-150C-4992-BD2C-D92CCD58DBB7@mi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <FA93E7D0D8E44E8B80EB8BE714ADE5ED@D6254Z51>

Dan - I have used a gas tank sealer product from a company in Creston, 
Calif. called "The Shop" in a variety of rusty farm tractor gas tanks. Their 
sealer will take care of pinholes as well as loose rust. I find that dumping 
in a box  of 3/8" steel nuts and shaking the tank vigorously will help to 
dislodge a lot of loose material. By using steel nuts, you can always get 
them all out with a magnet. You can check out their website at the 
following:

www.theshopproducts.com/products_gastank.html

Alex Thomson

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan Cronin" <adcronin at mi.rr.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Friends of Triumph Triumph" 
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2010 5:10 PM
Subject: [TR] Gas Tank Sealer ?


> Back in 1997 (13 years ago) I had an AL gas tank sealed at a body shop 
> with whatever was the trick sealer at the time.  With the increased use of 
> blended fuels today (and growing) I am curious what those with knowledge 
> of this subject think should be done now.........the tank has never been 
> placed in service but I am hopefull it will in the next year or so.
> Dan
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net
>
> 



From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Dec  9 14:17:42 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 16:17:42 EST
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
Message-ID: <48755.13d0148e.3a32a176@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/9/2010 11:36:03 AM Central Standard Time, 
brad.kahler at 141.com writes: 
> In the next week or so I am going to have to ship a TR4 head off for
> repairs.  Would anyone happen to know the weight of a head with valves
> installed?
> 

As I recall it weighs two slipped discs and a wrenched shoulder.  But that 
is with the rocker shaft attached.

Dave

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Dec  9 14:22:59 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 16:22:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
In-Reply-To: <48755.13d0148e.3a32a176@cs.com>
References: <48755.13d0148e.3a32a176@cs.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimeC85D6xoLCJnc-=tjd91Za9ReRQ1z_XvYosdN@mail.gmail.com>

So if I leave the rocker shaft off does that mean I can skip the
wrenched shoulder?

On Thu, Dec 9, 2010 at 4:17 PM,  <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 12/9/2010 11:36:03 AM Central Standard Time,
> brad.kahler at 141.com writes:
>> In the next week or so I am going to have to ship a TR4 head off for
>> repairs. ?Would anyone happen to know the weight of a head with valves
>> installed?
>>
>
> As I recall it weighs two slipped discs and a wrenched shoulder. ?But that
> is with the rocker shaft attached.
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation ?$11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com
>
>

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Dec  9 14:29:16 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 16:29:16 EST
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
Message-ID: <49326.e137465.3a32a42c@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/9/2010 3:23:04 PM Central Standard Time, 
brad.kahler at 141.com writes: 
> So if I leave the rocker shaft off does that mean I can skip the
> wrenched shoulder?
> 

Would that be your shoulder or Susan's?

From darrellw at ipns.com  Thu Dec  9 14:30:47 2010
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 13:30:47 -0800
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimeC85D6xoLCJnc-=tjd91Za9ReRQ1z_XvYosdN@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48755.13d0148e.3a32a176@cs.com>
	<AANLkTimeC85D6xoLCJnc-=tjd91Za9ReRQ1z_XvYosdN@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <069D5A2F-0364-4EDD-8592-19661714ED7E@ipns.com>


Hi Brad,

The head from my car weighed in at 48.5 lbs, according to my bathroom scale.  I believe that was with valves, but not the rockers.

BTW, I replaced it with the Moss aluminum one, which was 19 lbs.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From darrellw at ipns.com  Thu Dec  9 18:43:45 2010
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 17:43:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] Moss supercharger kit
Message-ID: <F0462899-0A22-40AD-8D93-E768AE70DB03@ipns.com>


I'm seriously considering installing the new supercharger kit in my car.  Is anyone else thinking about it?  Anyone already have it installed?

The TR6 kit has been out a while, has anyone installed that?

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Dec  9 19:37:08 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 09 Dec 2010 19:37:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik-CraQ7og=6SiZ3QtC+92pmFKyTcpRdFP6TJnN@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTik-CraQ7og=6SiZ3QtC+92pmFKyTcpRdFP6TJnN@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4D019254.8010204@bradakis.com>

Sorry I can't help with the weight.  The last TR4 head I sold the
purchaser took it on the plane in his carry on ;-)

mjb.



From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Thu Dec  9 19:44:16 2010
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 21:44:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
Message-ID: <67c2f.2074c708.3a32ee00@aol.com>



In a message dated 12/9/2010 4:18:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:

As I  recall it weighs two slipped discs and a wrenched shoulder.  But that 
 
is with the rocker shaft attached.





No, I believe you are mistaken - that's a TR6 head - the TR4 head should  
be lighter
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 


From thenicholls at verizon.net  Thu Dec  9 20:07:22 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 09 Dec 2010 21:07:22 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] 5% of the dollars you spend on Ebay (or somewhere else)
Message-ID: <14776481.413379.1291950442917.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>

To the list,

I finally have something to add and save you money.

For those of you who buy on Ebay, or any other store, set up an account at www.mrrebates.com , for Ebay purchases a 5% discount.

No financial interest for me, but if I had 5% of the money I spent on Ebay and TR6 items, I could have paid for Christmas.

Everyone have a great holiday,

Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6
 

From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 10 05:39:29 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 07:39:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
In-Reply-To: <4D019254.8010204@bradakis.com>
References: <AANLkTik-CraQ7og=6SiZ3QtC+92pmFKyTcpRdFP6TJnN@mail.gmail.com>
	<4D019254.8010204@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CD667E68D7E054-A28-17BC@webmail-m075.sysops.aol.com>

 

 MJB Wrote:


Sorry I can't help with the weight.  The last TR4 head I sold the 
purchaser took it on the plane in his carry on ;-) 


 

 Dave:
I can imagine the customs declaration:

Contents: One Head

 

 

From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 10 05:47:25 2010
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 07:47:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
In-Reply-To: <67c2f.2074c708.3a32ee00@aol.com>
References: <67c2f.2074c708.3a32ee00@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CD667F878336CE-A28-18D1@webmail-m075.sysops.aol.com>


 


No, I believe you are mistaken - that's a TR6 head - the TR4 head should be lighter
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 

 

 Yeah, the TR6 head, when dropped from waist height, is three broken toes, TR4 head is only two.

Dave

 

 

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Fri Dec 10 07:39:50 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 08:39:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
In-Reply-To: <8CD667F878336CE-A28-18D1@webmail-m075.sysops.aol.com>
References: <67c2f.2074c708.3a32ee00@aol.com>,
	<8CD667F878336CE-A28-18D1@webmail-m075.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W40DC4FD081B373C1189EBE12F0@phx.gbl>


Due to your method of measuring the weight of car parts, I assume working with you on a car might be dangerous!

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA 
'63 TR3B TCF587L 
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! 



 
> To: McGaheyRx at aol.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 07:47:25 -0500
> From: dave1massey at cs.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, I believe you are mistaken - that's a TR6 head - the TR4 head should be lighter
> 
> Cheers,
> Jack Mc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, the TR6 head, when dropped from waist height, is three broken toes, TR4 head is only two.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
> 
 		 	   		  

From wquincy at cox.net  Fri Dec 10 07:47:27 2010
From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 08:47:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Bolt in Roll-bar
Message-ID: <AC88A13E-4773-4D7A-94F4-D2462764F7EC@cox.net>

Greetings listers,
I started looking for a roll-bar for my TR3 and found that TRF and  
Moss don?t list them
For a TR3.  Not enough sales anymore? I looking for the faux version  
that just bolts in and fits under the top. Anyone know some good  
venders.
Also, what does the collective wisdom of the list think about the  
safety value of such a unit. I?m thinking for the 30 mph collisions  
most likely it could be helpful maybe.

Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L






From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Dec 10 08:59:25 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 08:59:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Moss supercharger kit
In-Reply-To: <F0462899-0A22-40AD-8D93-E768AE70DB03@ipns.com>
References: <F0462899-0A22-40AD-8D93-E768AE70DB03@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinWDhf2dwAOga4ymx6JVd9cJUCFMqzVUD8Dmg_E@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/9/10, Darrell Walker <darrellw at ipns.com> wrote:
>
> I'm seriously considering installing the new supercharger kit in my car.  Is
> anyone else thinking about it?

There is a current thread on the Brit Car Forum that you might want to follow --

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/725269/gonew/1/TR3_Supercharger#UNREAD

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Dec 10 09:01:01 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 09:01:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Moss supercharger kit
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinWDhf2dwAOga4ymx6JVd9cJUCFMqzVUD8Dmg_E@mail.gmail.com>
References: <F0462899-0A22-40AD-8D93-E768AE70DB03@ipns.com>
	<AANLkTinWDhf2dwAOga4ymx6JVd9cJUCFMqzVUD8Dmg_E@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikUaHtjtFqavRB94KjY-C0uVT9_cQ3VW4Ow3+w5@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/10/10, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> There is a current thread on the Brit Car Forum...

I just took a closer look at who was on the discussion.  D'oh!

Geo

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Dec 10 09:18:16 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 11:18:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W40DC4FD081B373C1189EBE12F0@phx.gbl>
References: <67c2f.2074c708.3a32ee00@aol.com>, ,
	<8CD667F878336CE-A28-18D1@webmail-m075.sysops.aol.com>,
	<SNT123-W40DC4FD081B373C1189EBE12F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU156-w43C6D1BF117F5F9820282BBA2F0@phx.gbl>


Probably no more dangerous than riding in a car with Dave :)
 
Marty
 
> From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 08:39:50 -0600
> Subject: Re: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
> 
> 
> Due to your method of measuring the weight of car parts, I assume working with you on a car might be dangerous!
> 
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA 
> '63 TR3B TCF587L 
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! 
 		 	   		  

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Fri Dec 10 09:18:47 2010
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 09:18:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Not TR or BR but we need to know the Difference Between http:
	and https:
Message-ID: <782B862DA72D49C1A1B5AB047B97EC88@bboffice>

I guess I could say this is TR related as we spend plenty of bucks each year
via the internet punching in our credit card number, exp date and that
secret little number on the back for parts and services.

   **The  main difference between http:// and https://  is and it's all
about keeping you secure**   HTTP stands for Hyper Text Transfer
   Protocol. 
     
   The  S (big  surprise)  stands for "Secure"..  If you visit a website or
webpage, and look at the address in the web browser, it
   will likely begin with the following: http:// This  means that the
website is talking to your  browser using
   the regular 'unsecure' language.  In other words, it is possible for
someone to  "eavesdrop" on your computer's conversation with  the
   website. If you fill out a form on the  website, someone might see the
information you  send to that site.
      
   This  is why you never ever enter your credit card  number in an http
website! But if the web address begins with https://  that
   basically  means your computer is talking to the website in  a secure
code that no one can eavesdrop on. 
   You  understand why this is so important, right? 
    
   If  a website ever asks you to enter your credit card information, you
should automatically look  to see if the web
   address begins with https:// .  Also, you should see the padlock icon on
your browser.
      
   If  it doesn't,  You should NEVER enter  sensitive
   information....such as a credit card  number.




From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Dec 10 09:21:21 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 11:21:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer party 2011
Message-ID: <BLU156-w6341460DA350123B83026EBA2F0@phx.gbl>


I see TRF announced the dates for the 2011 Summer Party Aug. 5th & 6th,  with the possibility of the 4th also. COOL, pencil them in.
 
Marty 		 	   		  

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Dec 10 09:33:34 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 16:33:34 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
In-Reply-To: <8CD667E68D7E054-A28-17BC@webmail-m075.sysops.aol.com>
References: <AANLkTik-CraQ7og=6SiZ3QtC+92pmFKyTcpRdFP6TJnN@mail.gmail.com>
	<4D019254.8010204@bradakis.com>
	<8CD667E68D7E054-A28-17BC@webmail-m075.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <224250.27472.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Whatever it weighs, it'll be less than a complete differential. More than ten 
years ago, I was tidying my shop one sunny Sunday afternoon and the Triumph diff 
that was on my workbench, suddenly took it into its head to hurl itself on the 
floor - via my left big toe!!!!
Three weeks later when I'd mastered the intricacies of using a wheelchair.....

Jonmac


      

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Dec 10 09:41:35 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 16:41:35 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Not TR or BR but we need to know the Difference Between
	http: and https:
In-Reply-To: <782B862DA72D49C1A1B5AB047B97EC88@bboffice>
References: <782B862DA72D49C1A1B5AB047B97EC88@bboffice>
Message-ID: <523881.81564.qm@web28311.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

I confess to being a complete Luddite when? it comes to using my credit or debit 
card for 'Net purchases. The world and his brother assure me of secure servers 
et al but there's one key issue as I see it. While Big Business can probably 
afford to protect itself using any amount of security software and probably 
employ teams of IT people on humongous salaries, this may make *them* safe from 
unwanted depredations. I'm not in that position to throw money at my computer in 
protecting myself and if I very occasionally buy something on-line, it's done 
with the very greatest reluctance.
There's much to be said for living in a hard cash environment but unfortunately 
more and more companies don't seem to want to do business that way.

Jonmac


      

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri Dec 10 09:45:15 2010
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 10:45:15 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Not TR or BR but we need to know the Difference
	Between	http: and https:
Message-ID: <9037165.442111.1291999515743.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>

I am a 25 year computer professional and I can tell you that I never have gotten taken online, but hand that credit card to the front desk at a hotel where they have your name, address, card number and the 3 digit code on the back, and you are screwed.  Has happened to me twice.

In Europe, when you pay for dinner the waiter brings a card scanner to your table so the card never leaves your site.  This could be done in the US for a small amount of money.

Food for thought.

Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6


Dec 10, 2010 11:41:57 AM, macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk wrote:

I confess to being a complete Luddite when  it comes to using my credit or debit 
card for 'Net purchases. The world and his brother assure me of secure servers 
et al but there's one key issue as I see it. While Big Business can probably 
afford to protect itself using any amount of security software and probably 
employ teams of IT people on humongous salaries, this may make *them* safe from 
unwanted depredations. I'm not in that position to throw money at my computer in 
protecting myself and if I very occasionally buy something on-line, it's done 
with the very greatest reluctance.
There's much to be said for living in a hard cash environment but unfortunately 
more and more companies don't seem to want to do business that way.

Jonmac



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Dec 10 09:46:10 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 09:46:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Not TR or BR but we need to know the Difference Between
 http:	and https:
In-Reply-To: <782B862DA72D49C1A1B5AB047B97EC88@bboffice>
References: <782B862DA72D49C1A1B5AB047B97EC88@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4D025952.6080702@gmail.com>

You could also mention that many sites are http on pages that do not 
require you to add personal information and HTTPS on pages that ask for 
your personal information.


Yes always look for th HTTPS on the page that asks for personal 
information AND always look at the URL address to make sure it is the 
site you think it is. Some criminals mimic other sites and have a web 
URL that has the mimicked address plus something else added before the 
dot com which makes it an entirely different URL than you think it is.

Teriann


On 12/10/10 9:18 AM, bill_beecher at flash.net wrote:
> I guess I could say this is TR related as we spend plenty of bucks each year
> via the internet punching in our credit card number, exp date and that
> secret little number on the back for parts and services.
>
>     **The  main difference between http:// and https://  is and it's all
> about keeping you secure**   HTTP stands for Hyper Text Transfer
>     Protocol.
>
>     The  S (big  surprise)  stands for "Secure"..  If you visit a website or
> webpage, and look at the address in the web browser, it
>     will likely begin with the following: http:// This  means that the
> website is talking to your  browser using
>     the regular 'unsecure' language.  In other words, it is possible for
> someone to  "eavesdrop" on your computer's conversation with  the
>     website. If you fill out a form on the  website, someone might see the
> information you  send to that site.
>
>     This  is why you never ever enter your credit card  number in an http
> website! But if the web address begins with https://  that
>     basically  means your computer is talking to the website in  a secure
> code that no one can eavesdrop on.
>     You  understand why this is so important, right?
>
>     If  a website ever asks you to enter your credit card information, you
> should automatically look  to see if the web
>     address begins with https:// .  Also, you should see the padlock icon on
> your browser.
>
>     If  it doesn't,  You should NEVER enter  sensitive
>     information....such as a credit card  number.
>
>    
...


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 10 09:58:18 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 11:58:18 EST
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
Message-ID: <72a63.2bb781f2.3a33b62a@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/10/2010 8:39:57 AM Central Standard Time, 
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> Due to your method of measuring the weight of car parts, I assume working 
> with you on a car might be dangerous!
> 

Hey!  I still got all my fingers and toes, such as they are.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 10 10:04:42 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 12:04:42 EST
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
Message-ID: <73371.6b2af24e.3a33b7aa@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/10/2010 10:20:59 AM Central Standard Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes: 
> Probably no more dangerous than riding in a car with Dave :)
> 
Hey!  I resemble that remark!

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 10 10:06:50 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 12:06:50 EST
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
Message-ID: <736b6.bea563d.3a33b82a@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/10/2010 10:33:37 AM Central Standard Time, 
macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> Whatever it weighs, it'll be less than a complete differential. More than 
> ten years ago, I was tidying my shop one sunny Sunday afternoon and the 
> Triumph diff that was on my workbench, suddenly took it into its head to hurl 
> itself on the floor - via my left big toe!!!!
>  
> 
> 
OUCH!!!  

You know sometimes gravity is your friend, other times...

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 10 10:18:14 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 09:18:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] Not TR or BR but we need to know the Difference Between
	http:	and https:
In-Reply-To: <4D025952.6080702@gmail.com>
References: <782B862DA72D49C1A1B5AB047B97EC88@bboffice>
	<4D025952.6080702@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <073401cb988e$3abf61b0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Some criminals mimic other sites and have a web 
> URL that has the mimicked address plus something else added 
> before the 
> dot com which makes it an entirely different URL than you think it is.

Also watch for extra characters after the .com and before the first '/'.
Many criminal sites will use a URL that ends in something like
"mysite.com.query.ne", which has nothing to do with "mysite.com".  I've even
seen some that looked like "catalog.tv/mysite.com", which also has nothing
to do with "mysite.com".

-- Randall  


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Dec 10 12:30:46 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 13:30:46 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Bolt in Roll-bar
Message-ID: <1773085930.458753.1292009446937.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

I have one that I can install on my car. I did weld/bolt in a sub-frame that mounts to the frame of the car between the rear wheels and the leading edge of the post60k body. Mounting on the floor/seat shelf without any underlying support will perhaps just slow down the crunch in a roll-over and I am guessing that my sub-frame will only slow it down a little more.  I am not sure if my plans will leave it in or - allow for temporary use when autocrossing, etc.


Dec 10, 2010 02:48:50 PM, wquincy at cox.net wrote:

Greetings listers,
I started looking for a roll-bar for my TR3 and found that TRF and 
Moss don?t list them
For a TR3. Not enough sales anymore? I looking for the faux version 
that just bolts in and fits under the top. Anyone know some good 
venders.
Also, what does the collective wisdom of the list think about the 
safety value of such a unit. I?m thinking for the 30 mph collisions 
most likely it could be helpful maybe.

Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L





_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Dec 10 12:37:29 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 13:37:29 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Not TR or BR but we need to know the Difference
	Between	http: and https:
Message-ID: <1667938675.459175.1292009849493.JavaMail.root@vznit170074>

I have a card through my credit union that I only use for online purposes.  It is a credit card, but I can add funds to it and it functions like a debit card.  No $ - No charge.  It actually allows me to set the credit balance and when it posts, there is automatic transfer from my account and the card resets at $0 credit.

If someone snarfs it, the likelihood of getting anything is minimalized.

Carl



Dec 10, 2010 04:42:01 PM, macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk wrote:

I confess to being a complete Luddite when  it comes to using my credit or debit 
card for 'Net purchases. The world and his brother assure me of secure servers 
et al but there's one key issue as I see it. While Big Business can probably 
afford to protect itself using any amount of security software and probably 
employ teams of IT people on humongous salaries, this may make *them* safe from 
unwanted depredations. I'm not in that position to throw money at my computer in 
protecting myself and if I very occasionally buy something on-line, it's done 
with the very greatest reluctance.
There's much to be said for living in a hard cash environment but unfortunately 
more and more companies don't seem to want to do business that way.

Jonmac



_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Fri Dec 10 12:46:53 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 11:46:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Hard Top Headliner Adhesive
Message-ID: <390405.95454.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am gluing in some insulation on my TR3A factory steel hard top before putting in the TRF wool headliner kit. I see three different major brand hi temp headliner sprays out there - Permatex, 3-M and DAP-Weldwood. There is another non-name brand in a gold can as well. Does anyone have any experience with these? The DAP-Weldwook is about half cost compared to the 3-M.
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Dec 10 13:02:02 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 15:02:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
In-Reply-To: <72a63.2bb781f2.3a33b62a@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20101210200202.3ZMOU.9901.root@cdptpa-web23-z01>

My head is getting heavy with the weight of this discussion!

---- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: 
> In a message dated 12/10/2010 8:39:57 AM Central Standard Time, 
> rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> > Due to your method of measuring the weight of car parts, I assume working 
> > with you on a car might be dangerous!
> > 
> 
> Hey!  I still got all my fingers and toes, such as they are.
> 
> Dave

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Dec 10 15:00:51 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 15:00:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Hard Top Headliner Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <390405.95454.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <390405.95454.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B68A7B0A685C46A39E19719AC1CC6692@Vista>

3M is what I have used and it is great.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 12:47 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR3 Hard Top Headliner Adhesive

     I am gluing in some insulation on my TR3A factory steel hard top before
putting in the TRF wool headliner kit. I see three different major brand hi
temp headliner sprays out there - Permatex, 3-M and DAP-Weldwood. There is
another non-name brand in a gold can as well. Does anyone have any
experience with these? The DAP-Weldwook is about half cost compared to the
3-M.
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Dec 10 20:03:07 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 20:03:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
In-Reply-To: <20101210200202.3ZMOU.9901.root@cdptpa-web23-z01>
References: <20101210200202.3ZMOU.9901.root@cdptpa-web23-z01>
Message-ID: <4D02E9EB.8080704@bradakis.com>

jerryvv at roadrunner.com wrote:
> My head is getting heavy with the weight of this discussion!
>
>    

I agree.  Let's drop it.

mjb.



From fishplate at charter.net  Fri Dec 10 20:39:16 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 22:39:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Weight of TR4 head
In-Reply-To: <736b6.bea563d.3a33b82a@cs.com>
References: <736b6.bea563d.3a33b82a@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4D02F264.50609@charter.net>

On 12/10/2010 12:06 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> You know sometimes gravity is your friend, other times...
>    
Rremember that gravity is not just your friend, it's the law!

From andygraybeal at earthlink.net  Fri Dec 10 21:16:26 2010
From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 20:16:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] Secure sites
Message-ID: <D5727CF8-448F-4B74-A68A-23756EE45EFB@earthlink.net>

There is a caveat to consider. I made a purchase at a small company  
in the Chicago area using a "secure" site, as noted https. The next  
thing I knew, the credit card company was calling me to see if I had  
made some expensive purchases in New Jersey. Turned out the company I  
was dealing with didn't have good security even though it was  
supposedly a secure site. They were apologetic and the credit card  
company didn't charge my account. You still have to be on guard.

Andy Graybeal


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 10 23:32:21 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 22:32:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] Secure sites
In-Reply-To: <D5727CF8-448F-4B74-A68A-23756EE45EFB@earthlink.net>
References: <D5727CF8-448F-4B74-A68A-23756EE45EFB@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <07e101cb98fd$2ae15770$0301a8c0@randall>

> Turned out the 
> company I  
> was dealing with didn't have good security 

Oh absolutely!  All the HTTPS thing does is keep a third party from
monitoring what you enter on the web page.  It says nothing about what
happens to the information after it gets to the other end.

There have been some pretty major companies that have let credit card
information leak out.  It's not always even their fault, since the CC info
typically has to pass through several hands by the time it gets paid.
http://tinyurl.com/8mnjb5

-- Randall  


From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Sat Dec 11 08:33:35 2010
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 10:33:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Secure sites
In-Reply-To: <D5727CF8-448F-4B74-A68A-23756EE45EFB@earthlink.net>
References: <D5727CF8-448F-4B74-A68A-23756EE45EFB@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <001e01cb9948$c6ff3460$54fd9d20$@verizon.net>

I use virtual credit card numbers for online purchases.  No problems so far.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andy Graybeal
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 11:16 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Secure sites

There is a caveat to consider. I made a purchase at a small company in the
Chicago area using a "secure" site, as noted https. The next thing I knew,
the credit card company was calling me to see if I had made some expensive
purchases in New Jersey. Turned out the company I was dealing with didn't
have good security even though it was supposedly a secure site. They were
apologetic and the credit card company didn't charge my account. You still
have to be on guard.

Andy Graybeal

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 11 10:25:42 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 09:25:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] trunk luggage rack TR3
Message-ID: <272300.95410.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i have just bought a trunk luggage rack for my TR3. its a replica of the 
original type that fastens through the hinge.
I'm a little reluctant to take off the hinges as the modern replacements (mine 
are) just strip threads even by looking at them.
has any one done this installation?
how tough was it to get the hinge pins out?
is the bolt for the rack the same diameter as the hinge pin or do i need to 
drill out the hinge?
any words of wisdom?
thanks
Frank


      

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 11 11:14:05 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 10:14:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] trunk luggage rack TR3
In-Reply-To: <272300.95410.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <272300.95410.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <085c01cb995f$3298ab00$0301a8c0@randall>

> I'm a little reluctant to take off the hinges as the modern 
> replacements (mine 
> are) just strip threads even by looking at them.

When I get new hinges, I remove the studs and carefully run a bottoming tap
into the threads.  Clean the threads with solvent, then replace the studs
just slightly more than finger tight with a few drops of high strength
Loctite.  I've not had any stripped threads since I started following this
procedure.

But the old hinges were looking pretty tired anyway, so I replaced them as
well when I installed the luggage rack.

> how tough was it to get the hinge pins out?

I may have made it tougher than it needs to be.  I was worried about
breaking off the 'ear' of the hinge, so I made a wedge from a flat washer to
tap into the joint first.  After that, the pins came out easily with a pin
punch and hammer, using my bench vise as backup.  I don't think doing this
on the car would be a good idea, though.

> is the bolt for the rack the same diameter as the hinge pin 
> or do i need to 
> drill out the hinge?

As I recall, one side was slightly tight and the other slightly loose.
Anyway, I didn't drill anything and the new pins went in fine using the vise
as a press.  But later, when I removed the rack and left the threaded pins
in the hinges, one of them fell out somewhere on the road.

Some kind person on this list sent me a replacement, but I'm ashamed to
admit that I have forgotten who it was.

Note that the rubber feet supplied (at least the ones I got from TRF) will
leave marks in the paint.  I had visible circles after having the rack
installed for just 2 weeks.  A piece of Saranwrap might help, or I believe
FT machined new feet from Delrin or something.

-- Randall  


From npaul72464 at aol.com  Sat Dec 11 13:36:09 2010
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 15:36:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] trunk luggage rack TR3
In-Reply-To: <272300.95410.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <272300.95410.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CD678A2D26837E-5A4-1CAEE@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com>


 I didn't use the hardware that came with the rack so I didn't need to remove hinge.  Also, I can easily take the rack off as needed.  I used a stainless bolt the diameter of the hinge pin and used a bushing to fit the hole in the rack piece.  I could send pics or offer more info if desired.

Ned Paulsen
1958 TR3A

 


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Dec 11, 2010 12:25 pm
Subject: [TR] trunk luggage rack TR3


i have just bought a trunk luggage rack for my TR3. its a replica of the 

original type that fastens through the hinge.

I'm a little reluctant to take off the hinges as the modern replacements (mine 

are) just strip threads even by looking at them.

has any one done this installation?

how tough was it to get the hinge pins out?

is the bolt for the rack the same diameter as the hinge pin or do i need to 

drill out the hinge?

any words of wisdom?

thanks

Frank





      

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Triumphs at autox.team.net

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From dkspence at telus.net  Sat Dec 11 15:11:56 2010
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 15:11:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] ] Secure sites
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1292094002.14719.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1292094002.14719.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BE88E225-67CB-4731-94C5-FEF5EB87CCD5@telus.net>

Huh?


On 11-Dec-10, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "LBC.Resto" <lbc.resto at verizon.net>
> Date: December 11, 2010 8:33:35 AM MST (CA)
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Secure sites
>
>
> I use virtual credit card numbers for online purchases.  No problems  
> so far.
>
> -----O


From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Sat Dec 11 15:36:19 2010
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 17:36:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] ] Secure sites
In-Reply-To: <BE88E225-67CB-4731-94C5-FEF5EB87CCD5@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1292094002.14719.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<BE88E225-67CB-4731-94C5-FEF5EB87CCD5@telus.net>
Message-ID: <000c01cb9983$d4b9c120$7e2d4360$@verizon.net>

Some of the credit card providers let you generate a virtual number from
their websites.  It is linked to your account, but it means that you don't
have to give out the main card number.  I use different numbers for
different online suppliers, that way if there is a security issue then they
know where it came from.  Depending on which one you use, they also have a
limited life.  Here's some info,
http://www.bankrate.com/brm/news/cc/20021011a.asp

Thanks
Ian
62 TR4

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 5:12 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] ] Secure sites

Huh?


On 11-Dec-10, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "LBC.Resto" <lbc.resto at verizon.net>
> Date: December 11, 2010 8:33:35 AM MST (CA)
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Secure sites
>
>
> I use virtual credit card numbers for online purchases.  No problems 
> so far.
>
> -----O

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lbc.resto at verizon.net


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 11 15:42:59 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 14:42:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] ] Secure sites
In-Reply-To: <BE88E225-67CB-4731-94C5-FEF5EB87CCD5@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1292094002.14719.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<BE88E225-67CB-4731-94C5-FEF5EB87CCD5@telus.net>
Message-ID: <089601cb9984$c3334100$0301a8c0@randall>

> > I use virtual credit card numbers for online purchases.

> Huh?

"Virtual credit card" is a service offered by some banks (including PayPal).
When you get ready to complete an on-line purchase, it creates a one-time
use credit card number, authorized for only the amount you specify.  Once
that charge goes through, the credit card number is no longer valid, so it
doesn't matter if anyone manages to steal it.

-- Randall  


From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Dec 11 16:37:14 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 15:37:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] Sad News
Message-ID: <a06240808c929bb96d65b@[192.168.2.2]>


It is with a heavy heart and great sadness that I must inform the 
UBSCC membership of the passing of a great friend and loved member, 
Jim Messineo.

Jim Passed while on a Vacation Cruise December 10th, 2010. Our love, 
regrets and support go out to his wonderful wife Barbara.

We are waiting word about any arrangements and services that will be 
made for Jim. As soon as we find out what the family's plans are I 
will relay them to you, the membership.

Jim's laugh and smile will be greatly missed.

Tony Pantoja
President UBSCC
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Dec 11 16:45:52 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 16:45:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] trunk luggage rack TR3
In-Reply-To: <085c01cb995f$3298ab00$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <272300.95410.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<085c01cb995f$3298ab00$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimo_3DdDeY2HS-s5acGyesMFHXyEMbUrz1P87tB@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/11/10, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> how tough was it to get the hinge pins out?
>
> ...I don't think doing this on the car would be a good idea, though.

No doubt it is not a good idea -- but I did it anyway.  Used a
C-Clamp, a nut with an opening larger than the pin and a bit of metal
smaller than the diameter of the pin.  But then mine pressed out
easily, yours may not.

I did not used the pins supplied with the rack as they prevent you
from removing the rack with the hinges in place (something I wanted to
do easily and frequently).  Instead I used allen-head cap bolts and
nyloc nuts with some nylon bushings from Ace to make it all fit.

Now let me think... what did I do with those pins I didn't need?

> Some kind person on this list sent me a replacement, but I'm ashamed to
> admit that I have forgotten who it was.

Oh yeah, now I remember.

> Note that the rubber feet supplied (at least the ones I got from TRF) will
> leave marks in the paint.

I glued (double-sided tape actually) circles cut from an old
sweatshirt to the rubber feet.  I affixed the material to a circle of
sheet aluminum to present a flat surface contact (the rubber pads on
mine were concave and w/o the aluminum would have mainly made contact
near the edges).  That and a good waxing before installation has
prevented serious marks on my soft-as-butter clear coat finish.

Geo

From jdabars at att.net  Sat Dec 11 16:50:22 2010
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 15:50:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: Christmas
Message-ID: <266641.16598.qm@web83706.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

?http://gpsinformation.info/main/merryxmas.swf

Merry Christmas to? ALL.

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Sat Dec 11 19:25:21 2010
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 21:25:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR2 Survivor list
Message-ID: <41ab.6b28cf7.3a358c91@aol.com>

After more than SEVEN years of research, Bill Lynn , VTR's membership  
secretary, has released a TR2 survivor list.  With Bill's  indefatigable 
leadership they have found a staggering total of 1850 known  TR2 survivors in 22 
countries.  To document a survivor rate of over 21%  from a car built more 
than 55 years ago is amazing. 
 
Bill's work can be seen at VTR's web site (vtr.org) at "Models of  Triumph" 
and click on my TR2.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
TRA in Fort Wayne, Indiana in  2011   

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Dec 11 20:15:28 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 19:15:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Lacquer Paint?
Message-ID: <858514.51959.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I've been considering painting by TR3 steel hard top with a rattle can on spray gloss lacquer from Home Depot. The top will be utilitarian and not a show piece obviously. What happens with lacquer when it isn't clear coated? Does it oxidize if it is kept waxed? Is there a spray paint clear coat that I can use?
     TIA,

     -Bill in Tehachapi 

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Dec 11 20:19:22 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 19:19:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Soft Top Forward Fasteners
Message-ID: <457493.36500.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     When I installed my TR3A soft top I didn't do anything with the funny padded flap above the windscreen. The general consensus was that it was to aid in sealing the top to the windscreen and the snaps should be going through it. Do the lift-a-dots connect to it as well or do you punch holes through it and snap the snaps through it? If the latter, what size holes did you punch?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 11 20:23:49 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 19:23:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Lacquer Paint?
In-Reply-To: <858514.51959.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <858514.51959.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <182105.9387.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

yes.
there is a place i bought touch up from.
www.paintscratch.com
you get cans of color coat and clear coat. these guys sell good product
Frank




________________________________
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, December 11, 2010 7:15:28 PM
Subject: [TR] Lacquer Paint?

? ? I've been considering painting by TR3 steel hard top with a rattle can on 
spray gloss lacquer from Home Depot. The top will be utilitarian and not a show 
piece obviously. What happens with lacquer when it isn't clear coated? Does it 
oxidize if it is kept waxed? Is there a spray paint clear coat that I can use?
? ? TIA,

? ? -Bill in Tehachapi 
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Dec 11 20:47:48 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 20:47:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lacquer Paint?
In-Reply-To: <858514.51959.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <858514.51959.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <650EAA46E5384704B36836946164AE9F@Vista>

Bill,
It all depends on the mixture of that particular paint.  You might be able
to find on the shelf a compatible clear coat.  But being in California and
knowing how particular their laws are concerning paint, you need to be very
careful that whatever you use is going to both hold up and also be
compatible with any clear coat you use.

IUt would be a very good idea to test spray something that isn't a critical
part to make sure that you have a good match.  Even professional paint shops
sometimes get strange orange peel or cracking patterns from paint
interactions.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 8:15 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Lacquer Paint?

     I've been considering painting by TR3 steel hard top with a rattle can
on spray gloss lacquer from Home Depot. The top will be utilitarian and not
a show piece obviously. What happens with lacquer when it isn't clear
coated? Does it oxidize if it is kept waxed? Is there a spray paint clear
coat that I can use?
     TIA,

     -Bill in Tehachapi 
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net


From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Dec 11 21:24:28 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 21:24:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lacquer Paint?
In-Reply-To: <858514.51959.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <858514.51959.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2BF6E31B0FBD40B088FB0AEA614E4158@bboffice>

Bill,
IMHO I would at least go the HF and get the $10 gravity fed gun and buy a
pint of paint from a local supplier or maybe even a friendly body shop and
give it a try that way.  BTW, if you do all the sanding and prep your body
guy may shoot it for a lot cheaper than you think if you don't rush him.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 8:15 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Lacquer Paint?

     I've been considering painting by TR3 steel hard top with a rattle can
on spray gloss lacquer from Home Depot. The top will be utilitarian and not
a show piece obviously. What happens with lacquer when it isn't clear
coated? Does it oxidize if it is kept waxed? Is there a spray paint clear
coat that I can use?
     TIA,

     -Bill in Tehachapi
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From jdabars at att.net  Sat Dec 11 23:45:30 2010
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 22:45:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: Fw: Merry Christmas
Message-ID: <587955.33894.qm@web83705.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>



Subject: Fw: Merry Christmas 



>
>?
>?
>http://ak.imgag.com/imgag/product/preview/flash/bws8Shell_fps24.swf?ihost=http://ak.imgag.com/imgag&brandldrPath=/product/full/el/&cardNum=/product/full/ap/3166187/graphic1
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun Dec 12 07:20:35 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 09:20:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] trunk luggage rack TR3
In-Reply-To: <085c01cb995f$3298ab00$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <272300.95410.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<085c01cb995f$3298ab00$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <9D9022E579E2460D97812A8EE6FD4843@AlexPC>

Here's another alternative to removing the pins without damaging or breaking 
the hinge and this can be done on the car as well.

When I added my luggage rack, I had a small cheap (Chinese made) "c" clamp 
in my tool box. It was red and about 2" long (we have all seen them). I took 
off the foot pad on the screw end. The remaining pointed screw end fit 
perfectly on one side of the hinge pin while the clamps opposing pad secured 
the hinge and offered a counter balance and support to the hinge. Slowly 
applying & tightening down the screw on the "c" clamp pushed the pin out 
easily to the point where needle nose pliers could finish the job.

To use this method you need to drill a hole through the "c" clamps base pad 
so the pin has a means to move as you turn down the screw. There is no shock 
to the hinge body and it works well with the hinge mounted on the car.

A side benefit is now you have a new tool for future hinge work. Total cost 
$1 for 2 c-clamps at any junk store.

As a side note, I did not use the bottom clamps that came with the rack, as 
they looked like a disaster on fresh paint waiting to happen. No side 
effects except the ease of cleaning the boot lid but simply lifting the rack 
up. It rests against the gas cap.

Cautionary note on the rubber pads that come with the rack. They WILL stain 
the paint. (Clear coat)
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] trunk luggage rack TR3


>> I'm a little reluctant to take off the hinges as the modern
>> replacements (mine
>> are) just strip threads even by looking at them.
>
> When I get new hinges, I remove the studs and carefully run a bottoming 
> tap
> into the threads.  Clean the threads with solvent, then replace the studs
> just slightly more than finger tight with a few drops of high strength
> Loctite.  I've not had any stripped threads since I started following this
> procedure.
>
> But the old hinges were looking pretty tired anyway, so I replaced them as
> well when I installed the luggage rack.
>
>> how tough was it to get the hinge pins out?
>
> I may have made it tougher than it needs to be.  I was worried about
> breaking off the 'ear' of the hinge, so I made a wedge from a flat washer 
> to
> tap into the joint first.  After that, the pins came out easily with a pin
> punch and hammer, using my bench vise as backup.  I don't think doing this
> on the car would be a good idea, though.
>
>> is the bolt for the rack the same diameter as the hinge pin
>> or do i need to
>> drill out the hinge?
>
> As I recall, one side was slightly tight and the other slightly loose.
> Anyway, I didn't drill anything and the new pins went in fine using the 
> vise
> as a press.  But later, when I removed the rack and left the threaded pins
> in the hinges, one of them fell out somewhere on the road.
>
> Some kind person on this list sent me a replacement, but I'm ashamed to
> admit that I have forgotten who it was.
>
> Note that the rubber feet supplied (at least the ones I got from TRF) will
> leave marks in the paint.  I had visible circles after having the rack
> installed for just 2 weeks.  A piece of Saranwrap might help, or I believe
> FT machined new feet from Delrin or something.
>
> -- Randall
>
> 



From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Dec 12 07:22:30 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 09:22:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Soft Top Forward Fasteners
In-Reply-To: <457493.36500.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <457493.36500.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201012120922.31893.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, December 11, 2010 10:19:22 pm William Brewer wrote:
>      When I installed my TR3A soft top I didn't do anything with the funny
> padded flap above the windscreen. The general consensus was that it was to
> aid in sealing the top to the windscreen and the snaps should be going
> through it. Do the lift-a-dots connect to it as well or do you punch holes
> through it and snap the snaps through it? If the latter, what size holes
> did you punch? TIA,
> 
>      Bill in Tehachapi
Bill,

I think the correct method is to punch a hole through the seal big enough for 
the tentax to attach to its post. I am guessing about 1/2" diameter. The 
tentax is not attached to the seal.

Bob

From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Sun Dec 12 09:21:43 2010
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 16:21:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rear oil leak - is this a first?
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C8D0@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

Dear all - having stripped all in preparation for TR2 engine removal to deal with my rear crank oil leak, I decided to remove the clutch inspection plate to make sure of the source before all that heaving out. As I removed the plate, what should fall out but a large core plug, I am guessing the one from the rear of the camshaft. Is it likely THIS is actually the source of my woes, and has anybody come across this before? I guess I will still have to remove the engine, but should I now leave the crank seal alone?
Regards
John


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Dec 12 09:35:37 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 11:35:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear oil leak - is this a first?
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C8D0@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C8D0@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <201012121135.38719.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, December 12, 2010 11:21:43 am John Gillis wrote:
> Dear all - having stripped all in preparation for TR2 engine removal to
> deal with my rear crank oil leak, I decided to remove the clutch
> inspection plate to make sure of the source before all that heaving out.
> As I removed the plate, what should fall out but a large core plug, I am
> guessing the one from the rear of the camshaft. Is it likely THIS is
> actually the source of my woes, and has anybody come across this before? I
> guess I will still have to remove the engine, but should I now leave the
> crank seal alone? Regards
> John
John,

Since you are removing the engine, I would install one of those new upgraded 
seals as highlighted in the current issue of the VTR magazine.

It is currently available from TRF in their Christmas adds online.

Bob

From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca  Sun Dec 12 09:40:49 2010
From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 09:40:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lacquer Paint?
Message-ID: <cf81c3ff22fe0.4d0498a1@shaw.ca>

Bill
If I was doing this I would take my spare tire cover into an autobody supply shop and get them to color match it. They can then fill a couple of rattle cans for you with the matching color and provide you with the correct clear as well. I did this when I put running boards on my truck the color match was perfect and cost for 3 cans of color and 2 cans of clear was about $60.00. 

Doug

Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2010 19:15:28 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Subject: [TR] Lacquer Paint?
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <858514.51959.qm at web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

     I've been considering painting by TR3 steel hard top with a rattle can on spray gloss lacquer from Home Depot. The top will be utilitarian and not a show piece obviously. What happens with lacquer when it isn't clear coated? Does it oxidize if it is kept waxed? Is there a spray paint clear coat that I can use?
     TIA,

     -Bill in Tehachapi 

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Dec 12 10:00:38 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 12:00:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lacquer Paint?
In-Reply-To: <858514.51959.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <858514.51959.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4D04FFB6.6060505@blacksburg.net>

On 12/11/2010 10:15 PM, William Brewer wrote:
>       I've been considering painting by TR3 steel hard top with a rattle can on spray gloss lacquer from Home Depot. The top will be utilitarian and not a show piece obviously. What happens with lacquer when it isn't clear coated? Does it oxidize if it is kept waxed? Is there a spray paint clear coat that I can use?
>       TIA,
>
>       -Bill in Tehachapi
>    
Bill, Home Despot sells a spray bottle which uses a can of air for 
propellant.  You can use any type paint you want.  James T. Davis 
company has cans of clear coat, for about $15 IFF memory serves.  Davis 
is a national company and I'm sure will ship.

A friend of mine used these gizmos on the radiator of his '69 Camaro.  
The results were superb.

hth

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go



From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Dec 12 10:13:09 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 12:13:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TRIUMPH tr3-a choke cable
Message-ID: <df97f.724fedd2.3a365ca5@aol.com>

with reference to the choke cable on the tr3-a cars, is it correct  that 
when one pulls out the choke cable it should go out 3 notches if it  is 
correctly connected. when connecting the choke cable to the linkage  should there 
be any slack or should it be tight in the "off" position?   larry schwartz

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sun Dec 12 11:01:55 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 10:01:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] stator tube and control head TR3
Message-ID: <51543.95079.qm@web120213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

rebuilt a control head yesterday.
the chrome turn lever does not want to stay in the turn position. instead it 
clicks back to the off position. any thoughts ?
?
also the little grub screws that go through the steering wheel are just to stop 
the control head from pulling out? they don't hold anything?
?
the control head is held captive from turning by the nut and olive at the 
steering box? yes?
so in effect the stator tube is a torsion bar. for what minimal friction there 
is? yes?
?
thanks
Frank


      

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Dec 12 11:11:52 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 13:11:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] stator tube and control head TR3
In-Reply-To: <51543.95079.qm@web120213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <51543.95079.qm@web120213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201012121311.53943.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, December 12, 2010 01:01:55 pm Frank Fisher wrote:
> rebuilt a control head yesterday.
> the chrome turn lever does not want to stay in the turn position. instead
> it clicks back to the off position. any thoughts ?
Frank,

It has been awhile since I did that job. I am guessing those ring springs are 
not installed correctly.
>  
> also the little grub screws that go through the steering wheel are just to
> stop the control head from pulling out? they don't hold anything?

There should be 3 and they hold the ring that is attached to the stator tube. 
Also assist in the canceling mechanism.
>  
> the control head is held captive from turning by the nut and olive at the
> steering box? yes?
Yes, but the ring mentioned above also prevents the stator tube from turning. 
The nut and olive also prevent oil from leaking out of the steering box.

> so in effect the stator tube is a torsion bar. for what minimal friction
> there is? yes?
No, there is no tension on the tube.

Bob

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Dec 12 11:53:44 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 12:53:44 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Horn Relay Questions
Message-ID: <29220497.541517.1292180024238.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

Speaking of TR3 Horns ...  (well sort of)
 
Please confirm that I am installing the horn relay correctly. 
 
1) NG from fuse box to C1 on Horn Relay mounted on 'tower' at Passenger-side horn
2) NG from C2 Horn Relay to Passenger-side Horn
3) NB from Horn Switch (bottom of steering column) to W1 on Horn Relay
            this will require adding about 30" of NB to route under the apron to passenger-side mounted relay.
4) NB from Passenger-side Horn routed back through harness to Driver-side Horn.
5) Grounds are W2 on Horn Relay and each horn to body.
Am I correct?
 
 
Next: Installing a relay for the headlights.  Looks like it should go inline before the dipper switch - is that correct?  But where would it get the fused power (NU?)


Dec 12, 2010 06:13:52 PM, yellowtr at adelphia.net wrote:

On Sunday, December 12, 2010 01:01:55 pm Frank Fisher wrote:
> rebuilt a control head yesterday.
> the chrome turn lever does not want to stay in the turn position. instead
> it clicks back to the off position. any thoughts ?

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 12 12:17:10 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 11:17:10 -0800
Subject: [TR] stator tube and control head TR3
In-Reply-To: <51543.95079.qm@web120213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <51543.95079.qm@web120213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <007201cb9a31$2d746970$0301a8c0@randall>

> rebuilt a control head yesterday.
> the chrome turn lever does not want to stay in the turn 
> position. instead it 
> clicks back to the off position. any thoughts ?

There is a coil spring that goes inside the square brass piece that carries
the roller for the turn signal switch latch.  It's the larger spring shown
here:
http://tinyurl.com/2ed8esc
with the square brass piece and roller to the right of the spring.

My guess is that the spring is missing, weak or wrong; or perhaps the roller
is out of place.  

Note in this photo
http://tinyurl.com/2d2at9q
(which shows the pushrods installed wrong), where the roller is just barely
visible above the big hole near the bottom.  When the lever is moved to the
turn position, the roller displaces one of the pushrods outwards, and drops
into the hole.  That is what holds the switch in the turn position, until
the cancelling ring forces the pushrod back in and the roller to move back
to center.

> also the little grub screws that go through the steering 
> wheel are just to stop 
> the control head from pulling out? they don't hold anything?

They have to lock the back plate to the steering wheel, so it turns with the
wheel and operates the cancelling mechanism.

> so in effect the stator tube is a torsion bar. for what 
> minimal friction there 
> is? yes?

Yes, but the friction isn't always so minimal.  The backplate is locked to
the wheel while the tube holds the control head from turning.  When the turn
signals are on, and the wheel is turned through the right position, the
backplate turns the cancelling ring so the ramp forces one of the folding
pushrods up against the roller & spring as I mentioned above.  There is a
moderate amount of both friction and spring force involved.

-- Randall  


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 12 12:51:08 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 11:51:08 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Horn Relay Questions
In-Reply-To: <29220497.541517.1292180024238.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <29220497.541517.1292180024238.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <008e01cb9a35$ebed6920$0301a8c0@randall>

> 1) NG from fuse box to C1 on Horn Relay mounted on 'tower' at 
> Passenger-side horn
> 2) NG from C2 Horn Relay to Passenger-side Horn
> 3) NB from Horn Switch (bottom of steering column) to W1 on Horn Relay
> 4) NB from Passenger-side Horn routed back through harness to 
> Driver-side Horn.

I'm not sure all the colors are appropriate, but that wiring will work.  I
found it simpler to leave the existing NG wires, and install the relay
between the NB and ground; but your plan will work.

> 5) Grounds are W2 on Horn Relay and each horn to body.

That part won't work.  Since W1 will be grounded through the horn button, W2
needs to get power from someplace.  If you were so inclined, this could be
switched power to make the horns only work when the key is on.  But it could
also be constant power, your choice.

> Next: Installing a relay for the headlights.  Looks like it 
> should go inline before the dipper switch - is that correct?  

If you want to use only one relay, then that would be the place for it.
However, that means you'll still have headlight current routed all the way
to the dipper switch (and flowing through the switch contacts).  It is
preferable, IMO, to use two relays and wire them after the dipper switch, so
the headlight current only has to flow through the relay contacts and not
any of the original switches.

In fact, this time around, I am going with four relays so that I can have a
separate fuse for each side of the car.  Back in 2001 I was going down a
mountain in the Rockies at about 80 mph when the fuse for the high beams
failed and left me totally in the dark.  Even though all I had to do was hit
the dimmer switch, the experience was still unsettling and I would rather
not repeat it.  You can see my first attempt here:
http://tinyurl.com/3yzdl9b
although I think I am going to rework it without the sockets and new wires
all the way to the bulb terminals.

> But where would it get the fused power (NU?)

You'll need to add a fuse (or two if you use my method), or perhaps a
self-resetting circuit breaker instead.  At the moment, I am using a TR6
style Lucas fuse block mounted near the control box, but my plan is to
switch to a pair of circuit breakers mounted out of sight inside the cabin.

-- Randall  


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Dec 12 13:28:02 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 14:28:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rear oil leak - is this a first?
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C8D0@GOMAIL.colleg
	e.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C8D0@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <20101212202738.359CF187662@autox.team.net>

You could remove just the tranny and install a new plug at the rear 
of the camshaft.  Epoxy it in place after installation.

- Tony

At 10:21 AM 12/12/2010, John Gillis wrote:
>Dear all - having stripped all in preparation for TR2 engine removal 
>to deal with my rear crank oil leak, I decided to remove the clutch 
>inspection plate to make sure of the source before all that heaving 
>out. As I removed the plate, what should fall out but a large core 
>plug, I am guessing the one from the rear of the camshaft. Is it 
>likely THIS is actually the source of my woes, and has anybody come 
>across this before? I guess I will still have to remove the engine, 
>but should I now leave the crank seal alone?
>Regards
>John



From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Sun Dec 12 13:31:45 2010
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 14:31:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] Help needed starting a dormant engine
Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BBC3A8CC@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>

 Hello list-



I need the collective wisdom of this list.

I have a 63 Mk II Jaguar that I love. Over the past decade I have been
doing an amateur restoration on it after a light engine fire. By TR
standards, I have spent a lot of money refurbishing the interior, wood,
paint and changing disc to wire wheels. The car is not really that
valuable I realize, but I just like Mk II's.

Here is my question- after the fire I pulled the engine and attached it
to a stand. I cosmetically restored the head and block to the correct
color. It freely turns, but has been sitting for 10 years. The engine
ran well when pulled. What should I do to the engine before reinstalling
it? Am I crazy for not having it rebuilt? Does anyone know of a reliable
and good Jaguar rebuilder close to Kentucky?

I have the same issue with the overdrive tranny. It ran well when
pulled. Should I send it off for inspection and a rebuild?

Many thanks in advance for your input. Although I don't post often, I
have considered this list invaluable over the years and thanks to Mark
for all of his efforts for keeping it going.


Steve Thornton
Bowling Green, KY

1968 Triumph TR 250
1963 Jaguar Mk II
1963 Harley Davidson Topper
2000 Indian Chief
2007 Harley Davidson Heritage Springer


__________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sothornton at stevethorntonl
aw.com


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 12 15:26:46 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 14:26:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] Help needed starting a dormant engine
In-Reply-To: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BBC3A8CC@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>
References: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BBC3A8CC@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>
Message-ID: <00b701cb9a4b$a995e9b0$0301a8c0@randall>

> Cc: John Swauger

Just a thought, Steve, I suspect John would have rather not had his email
address broadcast to everyone on the TR list.

> Am I crazy for not having it rebuilt?

I'd call it a calculated risk; there is certainly some chance the engine has
suffered internal damage during the fire or while being stored, or even that
your memory has faded somewhat as to its condition before the fire.  OTOH,
all you are risking is the time and labor to pull it back out, if it should
prove necessary to do so.  So balance that against the cost to have it
rebuilt now.

Some likely would call me crazy, but my 56 TR3 is still running the engine
that came in it, which had been stored for over 30 years and I knew
absolutely nothing about.  Even though I have since had to change the rod
bearings and head gasket, I still feel I made the right decision for me.  In
my case, that includes a decision that I will do a proper rebuild "soon",
but not until I have another Triumph to drive to work (which at the rate I'm
moving, will be several more years).

> I have the same issue with the overdrive tranny. It ran well when
> pulled. Should I send it off for inspection and a rebuild?

Pretty much the same answer as above, except I think it is even less likely
to have suffered hidden damage during the fire or storage.

-- Randall  


From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sun Dec 12 16:27:43 2010
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 18:27:43 EST
Subject: [TR] Spray Paint
Message-ID: <41640.41ed64fe.3a36b46f@aol.com>

A friend painted his entire MG-TD with spray cans of black lacquer about 30 
years ago!   He's pretty fussy and the car still looks great after all 
these years.   Lots of awards.   Go for it!
George

From Bob at texmog.com  Sun Dec 12 17:42:00 2010
From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 18:42:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rear oil leak - is this a first?
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB031A2073C8D0@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <B459BD04D54C48CD87F32DFE68734EE7@CARROOM>

John, I'd be willing to bet that there are a lot of TR rear seals being
blamed when in fact it is this plug. 
First it is installed just like a freeze plug, nothing mechanical holding it
in place. Second, when installing the cam, if you allow the cam to travel
too far back before installing the timing chain sprocket it can hit the plug
knocking it loose. 

Also back there is the aluminum oil galley plug which, thankfully, screws
in. If the block is hot tanked before rebuilding, the plug is eaten away
from the inside of the block with no sign from the outside. 

The sad thing is you rarely read about these plugs in manuals. 

Bob  (Educated the hard way!)    

==================================================================
> Dear all - having stripped all in preparation for TR2 engine 
> removal to deal with my rear crank oil leak, I decided to 
> remove the clutch inspection plate to make sure of the source 
> before all that heaving out. As I removed the plate, what 
> should fall out but a large core plug, I am guessing the one 
> from the rear of the camshaft. Is it likely THIS is actually 
> the source of my woes, and has anybody come across this 
> before? I guess I will still have to remove the engine, but 
> should I now leave the crank seal alone? Regards John
> 
> 


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Dec 12 18:35:58 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 20:35:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 wheels free to a good home
Message-ID: <4D05787E.6080504@blacksburg.net>

I have 4 stock TR4 wheels, free to a good home.  No letters of reference 
are required, however.  I can't stand to send anything TR-related to the 
recycler, but I have no use for them and Family Management would be 
happy to have that garage space for more of her stuff.

Yours for shipping.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go



From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Mon Dec 13 08:39:19 2010
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 10:39:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 wheels free to a good home
In-Reply-To: <4D05787E.6080504@blacksburg.net>
References: <4D05787E.6080504@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <009001cb9adb$e8594170$b90bc450$@net>

Her stuff NEVER...you've got to have some place to put your bed

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of J.C. Hassall
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2010 8:36 PM
To: tr list
Subject: [TR] TR4 wheels free to a good home

I have 4 stock TR4 wheels, free to a good home.  No letters of reference 
are required, however.  I can't stand to send anything TR-related to the 
recycler, but I have no use for them and Family Management would be 
happy to have that garage space for more of her stuff.

Yours for shipping.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net



From bob at texmog.com  Mon Dec 13 09:48:23 2010
From: bob at texmog.com (bob at texmog.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 10:48:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Coil
Message-ID: <8209A5B6E6314169A2764F1193652FC8@CARROOM>


Anyone know what the actual part number is for a Triumph ignition coil?  A
friend bought a new Lucas coil and it is causing the rubbing block on the
points to melt. Checking it shows that it has a very low resistance between
the poles so I think it is a Lucas coil with out an internal resistor.  Am I
correct in my assumption?

Bob  


From guy at genfiniti.com  Mon Dec 13 10:27:41 2010
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 11:27:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Rubber door seal orientation
Message-ID: <2F47EBE8-E2C1-4570-9628-9936B6723F7A@genfiniti.com>

Listers,

I added the two door seals (inner fuzzy and outer rubber) to the body tub.
I have a question regarding the orientation of the outer rubber seal.
Does the loose end tuck into the space created between it and the fuzzy seal?  Or just simply lay over the fuzzy seal?

Seems like the latter would interfere with the door glass rolling up.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Mon Dec 13 15:17:10 2010
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 17:17:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] Help needed starting a dormant engine
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1292266802.14614.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1292266802.14614.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4D069B66.2010003@gmail.com>

Steve,

I'd try it without the rebuild, but treat it like a fresh rebuild when 
starting it.  I assume all hoses, belts, etc have been replaced, 
ignition parts are all fresh and set properly.  Check valve lash.  I'd 
put in all fresh fluids with some ZDDP added to the oil.  I always like 
to pressure test the cooling system for leaks before a first start - 
avoids surprises, but not essential.  Remove plugs, put a couple squirts 
of motor oil in each cylinder.  With plugs still out, crank until you 
get oil pressure.  Might want to have fuel to carbs disconnected at this 
point to avoid flooding if you end doing extended cranking.  Of course, 
extended cranking without oil pressure is a sign of a problem.  Usually 
doesn't take much more than a couple normal-length cranks to build 
pressure.  Put plugs back in and start it up.

I resurrected a 73 Midget that had been sitting for 20 years.  I rebuilt 
the engine, but all I did to the tranny (no O/D) and differential was 
inspect, install new gaskets and change the fluids.  No problems.  I 
also stored a newly rebuilt TR4A engine for 20 years with assembly lube 
but no fluids.  Did what I described above and had no problems.  YMMV.

Ben.....


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300


On 12/13/2010 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2010 14:31:45 -0600
> From: "Steve Thornton"<sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Help needed starting a dormant engine
> To:<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc: John Swauger<jswauger at comcast.net>
> Message-ID:
> 	<894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BBC3A8CC at SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>
> 	
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
>
>   Hello list-
>
>
>
> I need the collective wisdom of this list.
>
> I have a 63 Mk II Jaguar that I love. Over the past decade I have been
> doing an amateur restoration on it after a light engine fire. By TR
> standards, I have spent a lot of money refurbishing the interior, wood,
> paint and changing disc to wire wheels. The car is not really that
> valuable I realize, but I just like Mk II's.
>
> Here is my question- after the fire I pulled the engine and attached it
> to a stand. I cosmetically restored the head and block to the correct
> color. It freely turns, but has been sitting for 10 years. The engine
> ran well when pulled. What should I do to the engine before reinstalling
> it? Am I crazy for not having it rebuilt? Does anyone know of a reliable
> and good Jaguar rebuilder close to Kentucky?
>
> I have the same issue with the overdrive tranny. It ran well when
> pulled. Should I send it off for inspection and a rebuild?
>
> Many thanks in advance for your input. Although I don't post often, I
> have considered this list invaluable over the years and thanks to Mark
> for all of his efforts for keeping it going.
>
>
> Steve Thornton
> Bowling Green, KY
>
> 1968 Triumph TR 250
> 1963 Jaguar Mk II
> 1963 Harley Davidson Topper
> 2000 Indian Chief
> 2007 Harley Davidson Heritage Springer
>    

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Mon Dec 13 18:05:43 2010
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 20:05:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear oil leak - is this a first?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1292180401.24836.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1292180401.24836.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CD69422A869411-1088-3476@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com>





Hi John, 

No, this is not the first time that core plug has fallen out of a TRactor motor. 

In his books, Kas Kastner strongly advises using a high temp two-part epoxy on that core plug, to help insure it stays in there. I'd also never try to reuse a plug, would want a fresh one in there on any engine rebuilt. Needless to say, you at least have to remove the gearbox to get at it, to it's best done right - or overdone as much as possible - any time you have to remove and replace it! 

And, yes, it's likely a major source of leaking oil... Bet your rear main seal (such as it is) is just fine! 

Alan Myers
San Jose, California 
amfoto1 at aol.com 
'62 TR4 CT17602L
www.triumphowners.com/640



-----Original Message-----

Dear all - having stripped all in preparation for TR2 engine removal to deal 
ith my rear crank oil leak, I decided to remove the clutch inspection plate to 
ake sure of the source before all that heaving out. As I removed the plate, 
hat should fall out but a large core plug, I am guessing the one from the rear 
f the camshaft. Is it likely THIS is actually the source of my woes, and has 
nybody come across this before? I guess I will still have to remove the engine, 
ut should I now leave the crank seal alone?
egards
ohn

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 13 21:27:41 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 20:27:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] steering wheel grub screws tr3
Message-ID: <154681.24516.qm@web120212.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

what size and thread type are the 3 steering wheel grub screws please.
thanks
Frank


      

From jdabars at att.net  Mon Dec 13 21:37:28 2010
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 20:37:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: A TRUE BARN FIND
Message-ID: <575461.61878.qm@web83703.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>





----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars at att.net>
To: John Dabars <jdabars at att.net>
Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 11:32:15 PM
Subject: A TRUE BARN FIND


A Classic FIND
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/austin-7ulster.htm 

From thecrowes at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 14 13:48:59 2010
From: thecrowes at hotmail.com (Frank - Sandy Crowe)
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 12:48:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] Help needed starting a dormant engine
Message-ID: <BAY132-W18D5B58026DA9D49053C5BA9130@phx.gbl>


I might suggest something I did on my Swallow Doretti whos engine was free, but had not run in 27 years.  I built a small pressure tank with a valve and pressure gauge and a schrader valve to pressurize it.  Remove you oil pressure sender, fill the tank half full of oil, pressurize, then attach to the engine.  This way you can pre-pressurize the engine before even turning it over and blow out all the old oil in the system.  Then change the oil and filter, pre-lube the rings through the spark plug holes, remove the valve cover and pour oil over the valve train.  Now you can have oil pressure even before you turn the engine by hand.  When all it well, pre-lube it and hit the starter.  With a gauge on the line, you can make sure your oil pump is working.  When ready, prime the carbs, put the plugs back in, pre-lube it again, and hit the starter.  Having the engine all primed with fresh oil under pressure should really help it survive better when it comes to life for the first time.

Frank
TS55223L and Doretti 1020 (TR engine)
 		 	   		  

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 14 19:49:35 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 18:49:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] head gasket
Message-ID: <539279.62412.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

do people use any type of dressing on the head gasket or just put them on dry 
and tighten?
I'm using the Payen stock gasket set.

gary n.


      

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Dec 14 20:12:52 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 20:12:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] head gasket
In-Reply-To: <539279.62412.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <539279.62412.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BBF908EC54BF41F4B57F2AFEEDF33FB9@bboffice>

I used the Payen gasket, dry, with no problems.  I have even had the head
off and back on once as well.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2010 7:50 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] head gasket

do people use any type of dressing on the head gasket or just put them on
dry and tighten?
I'm using the Payen stock gasket set.

gary n.


      
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From triumphsonly at gmail.com  Tue Dec 14 20:47:20 2010
From: triumphsonly at gmail.com (Kevin Browne)
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 19:47:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Coil
In-Reply-To: <8209A5B6E6314169A2764F1193652FC8@CARROOM>
References: <8209A5B6E6314169A2764F1193652FC8@CARROOM>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik7pM+2acxmZzAb2HbKgjZvcp21bWRp1it=6VWs@mail.gmail.com>

My original coil dated 8/59 shows 45054L, which doesn't correspond to the ST
catalog.TRF shows
 LUDLB101


Best,Kevin Browne

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 8:48 AM, <bob at texmog.com> wrote:

>
> Anyone know what the actual part number is for a Triumph ignition coil?  A
> friend bought a new Lucas coil and it is causing the rubbing block on the
> points to melt. Checking it shows that it has a very low resistance between
> the poles so I think it is a Lucas coil with out an internal resistor.  Am
> I
> correct in my assumption?
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphsonly at gmail.com
>
>

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Dec 14 20:58:42 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 20:58:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Coil
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik7pM+2acxmZzAb2HbKgjZvcp21bWRp1it=6VWs@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8209A5B6E6314169A2764F1193652FC8@CARROOM>
	<AANLkTik7pM+2acxmZzAb2HbKgjZvcp21bWRp1it=6VWs@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EC2BCB0FEE2D486A9DDE3D64C440E3DD@bboffice>

Parts catalog #501653 sez: Triumph part number 125195 after TS-11813. 

Bill


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Browne
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2010 8:47 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 Coil

My original coil dated 8/59 shows 45054L, which doesn't correspond to the ST
catalog.TRF shows
 LUDLB101


Best,Kevin Browne

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 8:48 AM, <bob at texmog.com> wrote:

>
> Anyone know what the actual part number is for a Triumph ignition 
> coil?  A friend bought a new Lucas coil and it is causing the rubbing 
> block on the points to melt. Checking it shows that it has a very low 
> resistance between the poles so I think it is a Lucas coil with out an 
> internal resistor.  Am I correct in my assumption?
>
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphsonly at gmail.com
>
>
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 15 00:08:03 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 23:08:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] head gasket
In-Reply-To: <539279.62412.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <539279.62412.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00fb01cb9c26$d1602320$0301a8c0@randall>

> do people use any type of dressing on the head gasket or just 
> put them on dry 
> and tighten?

My experience has been that dressing doesn't seem to help; so now I just put
them in dry.  Make sure the liners are high enough on both sides, or it
won't hold whether you use dressing or not.

However, the book says to use Wellseal (which was available from TRF last
time I checked) or equivalent.  I believe Permatex #3 should be an adequate
equivalent.

Of course pull down the nuts in stages, following the pattern in the book.
After bringing the engine up to temperature once and letting it cool, I like
to loosen each nut just a bit and retorque.  Some folks say to do this while
the engine is still hot, which probably works just as well.

-- Randall  


From rbtr3a at cox.net  Wed Dec 15 09:55:36 2010
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 16:55:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 front end
Message-ID: <1580637197-1292432355-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1198895759-@bda552.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

A close friend was hit by a big Buick this past weekend.  His TR3a was hit in the front.  He's in need of a donor front end.  If anyone knows of one please let me know off line.  

Ronnie Babbitt
Sent from my BlackBerry? smartphone with SprintSpeed

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 16 15:36:11 2010
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2010 14:36:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue
Message-ID: <AANLkTin0JQ1fmV-Sqtj78+4k=ukQmYPmcwncDxaOZk2Z@mail.gmail.com>

I thought I had the engine sorted out, but no ....

The distributor drive popped out at speed last week - exciting  to stop dead
on HW 101 north of San Francisco.

I now discover that it was never properly seated. The Drive slot is correct
according to the picture in the service manual. But the dist. in out of
alignment and only fully engages 180? out  with #1 piston on the compression
stroke.  I'm missing something crucial here, but danged if I know what it
is.

Amazing that I drove as much as I did without  proper engagement of the
dist! Incidentally, this is a Mallory dual point.

I hope someone is "listening" because this is the last day of good weather
for some time and for the time being I'm working in the driveway.

Many thanks

John

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Dec 16 16:39:56 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2010 15:39:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin0JQ1fmV-Sqtj78+4k=ukQmYPmcwncDxaOZk2Z@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTin0JQ1fmV-Sqtj78+4k=ukQmYPmcwncDxaOZk2Z@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02e501cb9d7a$8bd368d0$0301a8c0@randall>

> The Drive 
> slot is correct
> according to the picture in the service manual. But the dist. 
> in out of
> alignment and only fully engages 180? out 

Sounds like the dog on the distributor is installed wrong.  The hole is
supposed to be offset so it only installs one way, but it is possible to
force the pin in with the dog turned 180.

BTDT
-- Randall  


From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 16 16:47:33 2010
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2010 15:47:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue
In-Reply-To: <02e501cb9d7a$8bd368d0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <AANLkTin0JQ1fmV-Sqtj78+4k=ukQmYPmcwncDxaOZk2Z@mail.gmail.com>
	<02e501cb9d7a$8bd368d0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikg=u=M7cSuwY=yZqYFpSpawtc11xmR2dGv-aer@mail.gmail.com>

Aha!  That's amazing, because I reinstalled the dist. 500 miles ago  just as
it came off the car. Can it be the the PO drove with it wrong for  some of
all those years? Or maybe this is why he sold it.
Thanks Randall

John

On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 3:39 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > The Drive
> > slot is correct
> > according to the picture in the service manual. But the dist.
> > in out of
> > alignment and only fully engages 180? out
>
> Sounds like the dog on the distributor is installed wrong.  The hole is
> supposed to be offset so it only installs one way, but it is possible to
> force the pin in with the dog turned 180.
>
> BTDT
> -- Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com
>
>

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Dec 16 17:21:31 2010
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2010 19:21:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A IRS Rear Springs
Message-ID: <97216C7BC4444126B6B2318DCDF1014C@userb38463fba5>

List, I'm looking for a pair of original (used) rear coil springs for a TR4A. I don't want the replacement or TR250 or TR6 springs, just the original ones with the softest spring rate. 

Anybody have a set they would part with?

Write me with your offer and if you would also supply a free length measurement I'd appreciate that as well.

Thanks,

JVV

From darrellw at ipns.com  Fri Dec 17 09:44:45 2010
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 08:44:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] Weber 40 DCOE setup for TR2-4A (with high port head) for sale
Message-ID: <04D240D4-6573-457C-B8C4-AB8C33E5AC71@ipns.com>


Well, I've all but convinced myself to get the Moss supercharger kit for my car.  If I could sell my current Weber setup, that would likely seal the deal.  They are still on the car, but could be removed pretty quickly.  I've posted some photos here: http://gallery.me.com/darrellw360#100024

What would be included:

Two Weber 40 DCOE carbs

I can't seem to find the specs I ordered them to, but I set them up basically with the "modified street/autocross" settings recommended on TeriAnn's Weber page:

http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/WeberDCOEinfo.htm

My best recollection is that the chokes are 34, aux choke are 4.5, idle jet is 50F9, main jet is 145, air correction jet is 170.  This seems to work well with a slightly warmer than stock cam.

Two sets of intake manifolds

I originally got the TWM design from Pierce, but they didn't play well with my header.  I then got a set of Cannon intakes, which fit better for me.  You can have both sets and use whatever you like best.

Linkage sets for both manifolds

I think I did a little mixing and matching, but you should have enough parts to setup however you want

Two ARE heat shields for the carbs

Racto throttle cable linkage

I'll include pictures of how I installed this.  Much cleaner than trying to use the stock pushrods and such.  It may require a new cable, depending on how you install.

ITG air filter

This is a single filter for both carbs, and has interior space for reasonable air horns.  There is plenty of room in the TR4A engine bay for it, and I think it would fit in a TR3, but I can guarantee that.

I also have cleaner and oil for the filter, and a Weber book.

I'd like to get $1000 for the entire setup, but don't be afraid to make an offer.  At asking price I will pay for UPS ground in the US, and make a $50 dollar donation to the list in your name.  Everything is about 3 years old, but have less than 1000 miles.

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From spamiam at comcast.net  Fri Dec 17 14:44:54 2010
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 16:44:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 547
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1292612403.4306.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1292612403.4306.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AE1ED99BD4A74467B9C49090C1FDE0FF@I7Quad>

John,

It sounds as if you know how to change it back to where it needs to be, but 
if you don't you can remove the pedastal, then reach in with a long needle 
nose pliers and lift the drive gear away from the cam, then rotate agbout 
180 degrees and re-engage it with the cam.

As you lift, the drive will rotate (helical gears), then rotate back the 
other way when you re-engage it.  It usually takes me 2-3 tries to get it 
right (rotor pointing to #1 cyl with #1 at TDC on compression stroke).

-Tony

-----Original Message----- 

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2010 14:36:11 -0800
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7 at gmail.com>
Subject: [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue
To: triumph list list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
<AANLkTin0JQ1fmV-Sqtj78+4k=ukQmYPmcwncDxaOZk2Z at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I thought I had the engine sorted out, but no ....

The distributor drive popped out at speed last week - exciting  to stop dead
on HW 101 north of San Francisco.

I now discover that it was never properly seated. The Drive slot is correct
according to the picture in the service manual. But the dist. in out of
alignment and only fully engages 180? out  with #1 piston on the compression
stroke.  I'm missing something crucial here, but danged if I know what it
is.

Amazing that I drove as much as I did without  proper engagement of the
dist! Incidentally, this is a Mallory dual point.

I hope someone is "listening" because this is the last day of good weather
for some time and for the time being I'm working in the driveway.

Many thanks

John



From Catpusher at aol.com  Fri Dec 17 15:20:12 2010
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 17:20:12 EST
Subject: [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue
Message-ID: <df5bc.3e956870.3a3d3c1c@aol.com>

John,
If the distributor body popped out of the clamp around at the top of the  
dist. pedestal, the clamp is probably tweaked from a previous over  
tightening. If so replace or fix the clamp.  Keep downwards pressure on the  dist. 
whilst tightening. So much for our bay area good weather!
 
  TR Regards,
Hardy


From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7 at gmail.com>
Subject:  [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue
To: triumph list list _triumphs at autox.team.net_ 
(mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) 

I  thought I had the engine sorted out, but no ...

<snip>
The distributor drive popped out at speed last week -  exciting  to stop 
dead
on HW 101 north of San Francisco.

I now  discover that it was never properly seated. The Drive slot is 
correctMany  thanks

John

 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 17 15:42:49 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 14:42:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue
In-Reply-To: <df5bc.3e956870.3a3d3c1c@aol.com>
References: <df5bc.3e956870.3a3d3c1c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0b8901cb9e3b$bd2049a0$3760dce0$@rr.com>

> If the distributor body popped out of the clamp around at the top of
> the
> dist. pedestal, the clamp is probably tweaked from a previous over
> tightening.

Good point, Hardy.  In addition, sometimes the distributor body cracks where
the clamp grabs it.

-- Randall 


From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 17 15:50:03 2010
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 14:50:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue
In-Reply-To: <df5bc.3e956870.3a3d3c1c@aol.com>
References: <df5bc.3e956870.3a3d3c1c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik-0db--JYRxDHxd7bQn6Ej1ekLfOds5C2vQya3@mail.gmail.com>

Right - the clamp was tweaked and I've tried to straighten it out.  But,
with Randall's help, I've determined that the dog on the dist. is 180 off.
When I've done that the shaft should sit down snugly with the rotor pointed
at #1 and the clamp should work OK. At least i hope so.
Thanks, Hardy, for your input.
John

On Fri, Dec 17, 2010 at 2:20 PM, <Catpusher at aol.com> wrote:

>  John,
> If the distributor body popped out of the clamp around at the top of the
> dist. pedestal, the clamp is probably tweaked from a previous over
> tightening. If so replace or fix the clamp.  Keep downwards pressure on the
> dist. whilst tightening. So much for our bay area good weather!
>
>   TR Regards,
> Hardy
>
>
> From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7 at gmail.com>
> Subject: [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue
> To: triumph list list triumphs at autox.team.net
>
>
> I thought I had the engine sorted out, but no ...
>
> <snip>
>
> The distributor drive popped out at speed last week - exciting  to stop
> dead
> on HW 101 north of San Francisco.
>
> I now discover that it was never properly seated. The Drive slot is
> correctMany thanks
>
> John
>
>
>

From jdabars at att.net  Fri Dec 17 17:22:47 2010
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 16:22:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: TR Tools
Message-ID: <803151.97549.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>





----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars at att.net>
Subject: Fw: TR Tools


Subject: Fw: TR Tools



Subject: TR Tools


klick on this
?
http://tjwakeman.net/TR/index.htm

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Fri Dec 17 21:06:30 2010
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim Vassiliadis)
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 17:06:30 +1300
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Electric Radiator Fan
Message-ID: <119FB9A4F39547099658DE68FB588CD2@athlon>

My Tr4 radiator measures 12" in width.
What size fan would I install a 10" or 12" electric Fan?

Jim and his 1962 TR4

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Fri Dec 17 21:29:31 2010
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim Vassiliadis)
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 17:29:31 +1300
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <0FD54F4531B94A0A80F0CE153CEAE528@athlon>

My Tr4 radiator measures 12" in width.
What size fan would I install a 10" or 12" electric Fan?

I should have added that its a long neck radiator and that it has a crank
hole and I'm getting it recored.

Jim and his 1962 TR4


From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Dec 17 22:49:42 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 22:49:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Electric Radiator Fan
In-Reply-To: <119FB9A4F39547099658DE68FB588CD2@athlon>
References: <119FB9A4F39547099658DE68FB588CD2@athlon>
Message-ID: <4D0C4B76.1020004@gmail.com>

On 12/17/10 9:06 PM, Jim Vassiliadis wrote:
> My Tr4 radiator measures 12" in width.
> What size fan would I install a 10" or 12" electric Fan?
>    
How tall is it in the space you wish to fit it?

If it fits you might want to consider an electric fan off a 
Mercedes.There are a couple different sizes depending upon which engine 
is fitted.  You would pay more than US$300 to get an electric fan as 
good as the Mercedes Bosch unit.

My Land Rover has one  off a V8 Mercedes that cost me all of $40 and it 
is a perfect fit for my Land Rover.  Worth checking some wrecking yards for.

Teriann



From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Sat Dec 18 03:46:08 2010
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 11:46:08 +0100
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Electric Radiator Fan
In-Reply-To: <119FB9A4F39547099658DE68FB588CD2@athlon>
References: <119FB9A4F39547099658DE68FB588CD2@athlon>
Message-ID: <8635484CCD03466B9AFCCC55DE3AA26D@dbristerPC>


I've had wonderful results from a (Valeo made) Citroen BX fan salvaged from 
a scrapyard complete with duct casing which is exactly
the right width for the  4 and 4A radiators.

YMMV of course,

David Brister
1967 TR4A 


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Dec 18 06:40:02 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 08:40:02 EST
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Electric Radiator Fan
Message-ID: <319f8.313e8ed1.3a3e13b2@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/18/2010 4:46:23 AM Central Standard Time, 
david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes: 
> I've had wonderful results from a (Valeo made) Citroen BX fan salvaged 
> from 
> a scrapyard complete with duct casing which is exactly
> the right width for the  4 and 4A radiators.
> 

Tres bien!  Never underestimate the value of the ductwork.  Distributing 
the airflow across the entire radaitor improves heat extraction.  And I love 
repurposing off-the-shelf stuff.  Formidable!

Cheers

Dave

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Dec 18 09:08:11 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 09:08:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Electric Radiator Fan
In-Reply-To: <119FB9A4F39547099658DE68FB588CD2@athlon>
References: <119FB9A4F39547099658DE68FB588CD2@athlon>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=1X5NHmuNTaOQEpLidhYMi-PKsm86iBcfhCUtD@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/17/10, Jim Vassiliadis <diggle at clear.net.nz> wrote:
> My Tr4 radiator measures 12" in width.
> What size fan would I install a 10" or 12" electric Fan?

Lots of interesting options... I put the 12" version on my TR4 mounted
(high) as a pusher with the stock fan still in place.

Same thing on my TR3A -- the 12" fan still permits use of the crank hole.

You didn't say whether this was going to be an auxiallary or your only
fan -- might make a difference in how you proceed.

Geo

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Sat Dec 18 14:21:39 2010
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim Vassiliadis)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 10:21:39 +1300
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Electric Radiator Fan
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=1X5NHmuNTaOQEpLidhYMi-PKsm86iBcfhCUtD@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EDB339D8F2364CEC80E7687AB1399E29@athlon>


I wanted to remove the existing TR6 plastic fan as well as the extension so
I could put the fan behind the radiator, so the fan pulls but that seems
like a silly idea so I will put it in front of the radiator.
I want to take the existing fan off to save a few horse power. What's is
your opinion?

-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, 19 December 2010 5:08 a.m.
To: Jim Vassiliadis
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr4 Electric Radiator Fan


On 12/17/10, Jim Vassiliadis <diggle at clear.net.nz> wrote:
> My Tr4 radiator measures 12" in width.
> What size fan would I install a 10" or 12" electric Fan?

Lots of interesting options... I put the 12" version on my TR4 mounted
(high) as a pusher with the stock fan still in place.

Same thing on my TR3A -- the 12" fan still permits use of the crank hole.

You didn't say whether this was going to be an auxiallary or your only
fan -- might make a difference in how you proceed.

Geo


From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Dec 18 14:49:01 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 21:49:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Electric Radiator Fan
In-Reply-To: <419762550.19286.1292708882154.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1387520784.19295.1292708941320.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <diggle at clear.net.nz>
> To: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>, "Triumphs (E-mail)" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 3:21:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Tr4 Electric Radiator Fan
> 
> I wanted to remove the existing TR6 plastic fan as well as the
> extension so
> I could put the fan behind the radiator, so the fan pulls but that
> seems
> like a silly idea so I will put it in front of the radiator.
> I want to take the existing fan off to save a few horse power. What's
> your opinion?

When I had a TR4, I liked the stock look with the engine fan.  Plus I really never had the overheat problem as long as the car was moving.  The electric fan on the front of the rad worked fine and was difficult to see.  I had a recored Ebay radiator with no crank hole.  The original crank-hole rad was in dodgy condition.  I used a 30-amp switch under the left side of the dashboard, wired from the battery via an inline fuse.  

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 18 18:30:11 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 17:30:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] Tr4 Electric Radiator Fan
In-Reply-To: <EDB339D8F2364CEC80E7687AB1399E29@athlon>
References: <AANLkTi=1X5NHmuNTaOQEpLidhYMi-PKsm86iBcfhCUtD@mail.gmail.com>
	<EDB339D8F2364CEC80E7687AB1399E29@athlon>
Message-ID: <05d201cb9f1c$47df2c60$0301a8c0@randall>

> I wanted to remove the existing TR6 plastic fan as well as 
> the extension so
> I could put the fan behind the radiator, so the fan pulls but 
> that seems
> like a silly idea so I will put it in front of the radiator.
> I want to take the existing fan off to save a few horse 
> power. What's is
> your opinion?

That is the way I went, although it was the stock fan I removed.  Can't
really say I noticed the difference in power, but it's bound to improve fuel
mileage a bit.

I'm running a 12" Hayden fan, mounted as a puller.  Previous experience
indicates that having the fan in front will impede natural "ram" airflow to
some small extent, which was enough to cause the gauge to read higher at
speed on my Stag.  But the difference is small, so go with whatever suits
you.

Note that after removing the extension, it is important to clamp the
remaining hub firmly to the end of the crankshaft.  On one of my engines, a
simple heavy flat washer (and shorter bolt of course) appeared to work but
apparently pulled up against the end of the crank instead of the hub; and
over the course of several years allowed the hub to work back and forth
against the key until it tore up the key, hub and crank.  There are pieces
available commercially to solve this problem, but I did not know that at the
time, so I made up a spacer from a cast iron pipe cap that would fit over
the crank nose and clamp only against the hub.

-- Randall  


From dwillner at ptd.net  Sun Dec 19 08:41:18 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 10:41:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dark Triumph Racing Green swatches/code needed
Message-ID: <A98F2FD71A9C481BAECB26C5A1614E28@valued9cfc0b6f>

Looking for a site or a little help offline with some color swatches and newer paint codes for a dark Triumph Racing Green for my TR3A respray. I'm looking for a very dark color similar to the photo in Bill Piggot's Original Triumph TR3 book on page 14 and 15.
 
Thanks...happy holidays

Dave Willner
dwillner at ptd.net 
Stroudsburg, PA

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sun Dec 19 10:49:59 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 09:49:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] Timing Cover Seal
In-Reply-To: <4C5EE81B.9040507@bradakis.com>
References: <7040C6A51DD9466EAA9DD9D8DE3746B5@WANDERER>
	<4C5EE81B.9040507@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <000601cb9fa5$28057e60$78107b20$@rr.com>

This may be an old question, but I didn't find anything in the archives.

What is the "stuff" on the outside of the timing chain cover? I believe it's
to reduce noise from the chain. Is there a modern alternative? Is it
supposed to be painted the same color as the cover?

Johnnie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
> Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 10:24 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Timing Cover Seal
> 
> Ed Oot wrote:
> > Can someone confirm which direction a modern seal goes in the timing
> chain
> > cover.  Is it correct that the sealing surface with the spring goes
> toward the
> > engine.
> >
> 
> Yes.
> 
> mjb.


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Dec 19 11:19:01 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 12:19:01 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Timing Cover Seal
Message-ID: <22286603.1009479.1292782741446.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

Here is an image of an original - I only sprayed some fresh black paint on a few 'scruffs' on the edges..  I am not sure what the material is but it is spread on as if with a putty knife - about 1/4-3/8 thick - thicker in the center than the edges.  Looks like icing spread on a cake (swirls etc.).  It is light grey in color and hard but I am not sure if that is from 50 years sitting or as original.  Although I know that it is not - it looks like dried spackling paste.

http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/TS81802LO%20Restoration/25-BodyLowering3.jpg

somewhere I think I have an image of just the cover.  I'll look through them tonight and forward if I do.
 
Dec 19, 2010 05:50:27 PM, pdonnel1 at san.rr.com wrote:

This may be an old question, but I didn't find anything in the archives.

What is the "stuff" on the outside of the timing chain cover? I believe it's
to reduce noise from the chain. Is there a modern alternative? Is it
supposed to be painted the same color as the cover?

Johnnie


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Dec 19 11:21:23 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 13:21:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Timing Cover Seal
In-Reply-To: <000601cb9fa5$28057e60$78107b20$@rr.com>
References: <7040C6A51DD9466EAA9DD9D8DE3746B5@WANDERER>
	<4C5EE81B.9040507@bradakis.com>
	<000601cb9fa5$28057e60$78107b20$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <201012191321.24346.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, December 19, 2010 12:49:59 pm John & Pat Donnelly wrote:
> This may be an old question, but I didn't find anything in the archives.
> 
> What is the "stuff" on the outside of the timing chain cover? I believe
> it's to reduce noise from the chain. Is there a modern alternative? Is it
> supposed to be painted the same color as the cover?
> 
> Johnnie
> 
>
Johnnie,

Yes it was there for noise reduction. Don't know of any modern alternative.

There was nothing on my recent 72 TR6 restoration and I have only seen it once 
on a 3.

The stuff was not on my 63 TR4.

My view is it is not needed. The valve tappets make enough noise for me.

Bob

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Dec 19 14:53:31 2010
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 16:53:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] New clutch fork from Moss Motors
Message-ID: <7D4C47FC9E5B42ACBBB1854115BE6D15@DaveLaptop>

Well,
I just received my back ordered TR4A clutch fork which was ordered mid summer of last year. I guess it was worth 5 bucks for the special screw and spring  but I could have drilled the holes in the fork better myself blindfolded.. The two holes are off about 0.015" from each other so if I use it as-is, I have a automatic wear point build right in due to the angle of the pin. Not to mention it will probably squeak and hang up occasionally. What is the deal? I would rather pay $10-$15 for a part made here in the states that will actually work without me screwing with it.
I think I may just weld the small end closed and re-drill the thing. I am going to call Moss next week and complain but they probably have a whole bin full of what I have.
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Dec 19 15:21:19 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 14:21:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] pistons
Message-ID: <47384.96149.qm@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Just a quick question on tr-3 pistons.  The book says that the piston needs to 
be oriented "forward" according to the vent holes in the piston skirt.  However 
my pistons have not such vent slats.  I do have writing on the top of the 
piston.........STD.........
Is there a need to install the pistons a certain way?
thanks!

gary n.


      

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Dec 19 16:12:57 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 16:12:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Timing Cover Seal
In-Reply-To: <201012191321.24346.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <7040C6A51DD9466EAA9DD9D8DE3746B5@WANDERER>
	<4C5EE81B.9040507@bradakis.com>
	<000601cb9fa5$28057e60$78107b20$@rr.com>
	<201012191321.24346.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim8uTTcri56npaG58Z0r3CN-=o9iCe9Nf0-t0=5@mail.gmail.com>

>> What is the "stuff" on the outside of the timing chain cover?

The best description I ever heard was that it "looks like the last of
a batch of Bondo, applied with a wooden spoon by a man wearing a
blindfold".

I am quite sure that neither of my TRs ever had it so it's presence
seems to have been rather capricious.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Dec 19 16:15:54 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 16:15:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] New clutch fork from Moss Motors
In-Reply-To: <7D4C47FC9E5B42ACBBB1854115BE6D15@DaveLaptop>
References: <7D4C47FC9E5B42ACBBB1854115BE6D15@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin5R=4-tMGo2_pxXyGCXJhn55Nt56m9fJK9xxkV@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/19/10, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
>...I am going to call Moss next week and complain but they probably have a whole bin full of what I have.

If your experience is like mine -- they want to know and will do what
they can to make it right.

Geo

From rjones at wfeca.net  Sun Dec 19 16:45:06 2010
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 18:45:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wiring
In-Reply-To: <04D240D4-6573-457C-B8C4-AB8C33E5AC71@ipns.com>
References: <04D240D4-6573-457C-B8C4-AB8C33E5AC71@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <D2C660FD-C023-4025-883C-17C3F78EC3FF@wfeca.net>

My friends in Triumph-land:

Being electrically challenged, I need some help:

Some relays have the following connectors:  L, S, B

Others have:  S1, L1, S2, L2

And some have:  30,85,86, 87

Could anyone tell me which ones are the same as another?

Thanks
Bob


From pryner at verizon.net  Sun Dec 19 17:24:32 2010
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 19:24:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Timing Cover Seal
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim8uTTcri56npaG58Z0r3CN-=o9iCe9Nf0-t0=5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <7040C6A51DD9466EAA9DD9D8DE3746B5@WANDERER>
	<4C5EE81B.9040507@bradakis.com>	<000601cb9fa5$28057e60$78107b20$@rr.com>
	<201012191321.24346.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<AANLkTim8uTTcri56npaG58Z0r3CN-=o9iCe9Nf0-t0=5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <14975E32582B40D0B70127DD55F7BCE6@PetePC>

Mine has it as well as many other engines I've seen.  I believe it is a 
dampening material to hold noise down from the timing chain
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing Cover Seal


>>> What is the "stuff" on the outside of the timing chain cover?
>
> The best description I ever heard was that it "looks like the last of
> a batch of Bondo, applied with a wooden spoon by a man wearing a
> blindfold".
>
> I am quite sure that neither of my TRs ever had it so it's presence
> seems to have been rather capricious.
>
> Geo
> 


From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Dec 19 22:09:05 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (spitlist at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 21:09:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wiring
In-Reply-To: <D2C660FD-C023-4025-883C-17C3F78EC3FF@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <20101220000905.QVPW4.522155.imail@fed1rmwml41>

Bob,
I think that your best bet is to ask for a schematic if you are looking to buy one of these relays.  Certain manufacturers have their own conventions for identifying the contacts.  

Basicly,  all relays have windings that connect to ground and a switched voltage source.  Since coils are usually identified with an "L" designation, I expect any "L" contact is referring to the coil.  At the same time, the switched contacts ahat are activated when the coil energizes, aqre often labeled as "S".

I HOPE THIS HELPS.

Joe!


---- Robert Jones <rjones at wfeca.net> wrote: 
> My friends in Triumph-land:
> 
> Being electrically challenged, I need some help:
> 
> Some relays have the following connectors:  L, S, B
> 
> Others have:  S1, L1, S2, L2
> 
> And some have:  30,85,86, 87
> 
> Could anyone tell me which ones are the same as another?
> 
> Thanks
> Bob
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
> 


From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon Dec 20 06:06:44 2010
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2010 08:06:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wiring
References: <04D240D4-6573-457C-B8C4-AB8C33E5AC71@ipns.com>
	<D2C660FD-C023-4025-883C-17C3F78EC3FF@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <D31A028E7D634774A87CB1164926974C@D6254Z51>

Bob -

The four or five terminal, 30 amp relays often have the schematic printed 
right on them. Example - a Signal-Stat 192 - 85 and 86 are the coil 
terminals, 30 and 87 are the load terminals.

Alex Thomson


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Jones" <rjones at wfeca.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 6:45 PM
Subject: [TR] Wiring


> My friends in Triumph-land:
>
> Being electrically challenged, I need some help:
>
> Some relays have the following connectors:  L, S, B
>
> Others have:  S1, L1, S2, L2
>
> And some have:  30,85,86, 87
>
> Could anyone tell me which ones are the same as another?
>
> Thanks
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net
>
> 



From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 20 16:02:54 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2010 15:02:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] pistons
Message-ID: <798106.65315.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

yess i do have small holes drilled into the piston skirt but they're at the 
extreme upper end
Maybe then i should substitute the holes instead of slots as I read the manual 
for the orientation of the pistons?

thanks 

gary n.



      

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Mon Dec 20 17:48:01 2010
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2010 16:48:01 -0800
Subject: [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue - resolution
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=FSm0Mv4NyntK1AfuTN7OEe9Thw9O0vyOucODy@mail.gmail.com>

All is well.
I rotated the dog at the bottom of the distributor shaft 180 degrees by
tapping out the holding pin.Thank you Randall.  The dist now sits down
snugly atop the pedestal  and the shaft is now clearly fully engaged. The
car started right up and I shall now drive with abandon.

Thanks to all.

JohnH

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Dec 20 17:55:02 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2010 18:55:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue - resolution
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=FSm0Mv4NyntK1AfuTN7OEe9Thw9O0vyOucODy@mail.gmail.c
 om>
References: <AANLkTi=FSm0Mv4NyntK1AfuTN7OEe9Thw9O0vyOucODy@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20101221005447.EC7DC187649@autox.team.net>

And Abandon is lucky to be able to tag along with you in your TR!

- Tony

At 06:48 PM 12/20/2010, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>All is well.
>I rotated the dog at the bottom of the distributor shaft 180 degrees by
>tapping out the holding pin.Thank you Randall.  The dist now sits down
>snugly atop the pedestal  and the shaft is now clearly fully engaged. The
>car started right up and I shall now drive with abandon.
>
>Thanks to all.
>
>JohnH



From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Dec 20 18:24:23 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2010 18:24:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wiring
In-Reply-To: <D2C660FD-C023-4025-883C-17C3F78EC3FF@wfeca.net>
References: <04D240D4-6573-457C-B8C4-AB8C33E5AC71@ipns.com>
	<D2C660FD-C023-4025-883C-17C3F78EC3FF@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTine-ZL7e9A7uqRNG1PWvm8ADgTaMitHkkXwaTBD@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/19/10, Robert Jones <rjones at wfeca.net> wrote:
> My friends in Triumph-land:
>
> Being electrically challenged, I need some help...

Oddly enough, your examples don't seem to include Lucas relays with
C1, C2, W1, W2.

Fortunately the numbered ones (thanks to the Germans?)  are most
common these days and unambiguous.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Dec 20 18:26:20 2010
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2010 18:26:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] 65 TR4 Distributor issue - resolution
In-Reply-To: <20101221005447.EC7DC187649@autox.team.net>
References: <AANLkTi=FSm0Mv4NyntK1AfuTN7OEe9Thw9O0vyOucODy@mail.gmail.com>
	<20101221005447.EC7DC187649@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimNqpxBC_jSSP63zL2vf_JeF+Kj+1fwYEZTjbtF@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/20/10, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
> And Abandon is lucky to be able to tag along with you in your TR!

Just so it's not his cousin, 'Reckless' Abandon.

G

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Dec 22 10:57:52 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 17:57:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
Message-ID: <639090266.199215.1293040671999.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

testing triumphs at autox.team.net

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Dec 22 11:05:41 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 11:05:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <639090266.199215.1293040671999.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <639090266.199215.1293040671999.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B49022582B8E44EC857E2E9EC23C0ABC@bboffice>

GOT IT!

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 10:58 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

testing triumphs at autox.team.net

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 22 11:07:10 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 10:07:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <639090266.199215.1293040671999.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <639090266.199215.1293040671999.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <897889.15938.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>



its no where near as testing as the wife can be!
Frank


________________________________
From: "pethier at comcast.net" <pethier at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, December 22, 2010 9:57:52 AM
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

testing triumphs at autox.team.net

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Wed Dec 22 13:03:17 2010
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 15:03:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <897889.15938.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <639090266.199215.1293040671999.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<897889.15938.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003101cba213$47b406d0$d71c1470$@net>

Are you telling us that you can folded up your wife and put in the trunk?
WOW

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 1:07 PM
To: pethier at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net



its no where near as testing as the wife can be!
Frank


________________________________
From: "pethier at comcast.net" <pethier at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, December 22, 2010 9:57:52 AM
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

testing triumphs at autox.team.net

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net



From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Dec 22 14:15:55 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 21:15:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <1376578500.211050.1293052184923.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hmm.  CMusson and Randall think the list is broken.  Perhaps they have become unsubscribed?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: wbeech at flash.net
> To: pethier at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 12:05:41 PM
> Subject: RE: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> GOT IT!
> 
> MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!
> 
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is
> called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> pethier at comcast.net
> Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 10:58 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> testing triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
> 2004 Suburban 8.1
> 2005 Lotus Elise
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
> http://www.mnautox.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Dec 22 15:12:01 2010
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 17:12:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1376578500.211050.1293052184923.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <062354DA5A2F4D149F516C9D3B773FD2@DCH6RFC1>

Merry Christmas to all.  I just re-subscribed after a 9-month hiatus, during
which we relocated to Michigan and bought a house which needed a LOT of
work...

Anything happen in the meantime?  Did Paul Dorsey get his TR3 on the road
yet?

Andrew Uprichard
1962 TR3B loves Michigan roads
1959 TR3A had to sell, but got a great price
1968 TR250 reason for selling the TR3A

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 4:16 PM
To: wbeech at flash.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

Hmm.  CMusson and Randall think the list is broken.  Perhaps they have
become unsubscribed?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: wbeech at flash.net
> To: pethier at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 12:05:41 PM
> Subject: RE: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> GOT IT!
> 
> MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!
> 
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is
> called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> pethier at comcast.net
> Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 10:58 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> testing triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
> 2004 Suburban 8.1
> 2005 Lotus Elise
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
> http://www.mnautox.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net



From dan.julien at alumni.utexas.net  Wed Dec 22 15:28:19 2010
From: dan.julien at alumni.utexas.net (Dan Julien)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 16:28:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] Timing Cover Seal
Message-ID: <AANLkTik9WKSVCQHuo0XYN=buQVKXxnc4b-V61xspcO9D@mail.gmail.com>

And it actually is somewhat effective. When my engine came back from a
rebuild a few years ago stripped of it's sound-deadening material, I
adjusted the valves over and over again trying to get rid of the clatter
before it dawned on me that I was actually hearing the sound of the timing
chain. I've sort of gotten used to it, but if I have the timing chain cover
off again for some other reason, I'll probably try to do something so I
don't have to listen to that any more.

Dan Julien
1970 TR6
CC50337L

On Mon, Dec 20, 2010 at 1:00 PM, <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
> Mine has it as well as many other engines I've seen.  I believe it is a
> dampening material to hold noise down from the timing chain
> Pete
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 6:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Timing Cover Seal
>
>
> >>> What is the "stuff" on the outside of the timing chain cover?
> >
> > The best description I ever heard was that it "looks like the last of
> > a batch of Bondo, applied with a wooden spoon by a man wearing a
> > blindfold".
> >
> > I am quite sure that neither of my TRs ever had it so it's presence
> > seems to have been rather capricious.
> >
> > Geo
> >
>
>

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Wed Dec 22 15:39:58 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 17:39:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine Mount Question
Message-ID: <D2B3AFED362C41BC98DA0722599B67A8@TRGUY>

Happy Holidays!  I have an early (Feb 62) TR4 that has rectangle front engine mounts like a TR3.  Is this correct for an early TR4 (CT5212LO) or should I have the round TR4 mounts?  
Thanks in advance!
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, Fl
62 TR4 (all apart in my garage)
75 TR6

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Wed Dec 22 15:42:15 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 17:42:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine Mount Question
In-Reply-To: <D2B3AFED362C41BC98DA0722599B67A8@TRGUY>
References: <D2B3AFED362C41BC98DA0722599B67A8@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikEhWeRp=60UwmVGAQNdaYx8Gj2Yr9ftLaoP4iQ@mail.gmail.com>

Jim,

Not sure what the break point is but the early TR4s definitely used
the square motor mounts.  The frame for CT288L was a modified TR3
frame from the factory.  You might look at your frame up front and see
if it was a widened TR3 frame or a purpose built TR4 frame.  The
purpose built frame used the round mounts.

Brad


On Wed, Dec 22, 2010 at 5:39 PM, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> Happy Holidays! ?I have an early (Feb 62) TR4 that has rectangle front engine mounts like a TR3. ?Is this correct for an early TR4 (CT5212LO) or should I have the round TR4 mounts?
> Thanks in advance!
> Jim Henningsen
> Maitland, Fl
> 62 TR4 (all apart in my garage)
> 75 TR6
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation ?$11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com
>
>

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Wed Dec 22 16:25:41 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 18:25:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine Mount Question
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikEhWeRp=60UwmVGAQNdaYx8Gj2Yr9ftLaoP4iQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D2B3AFED362C41BC98DA0722599B67A8@TRGUY>
	<AANLkTikEhWeRp=60UwmVGAQNdaYx8Gj2Yr9ftLaoP4iQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B1D68A7FE4504A5F8BC52BB26BDD429D@TRGUY>

Thanks,
It looks like the frame has a bracket for the square or rectangualr unit. 
How would I tell if it is a widened TR3 frame?
Jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler at 141.com>
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>; "Triumphs" 
<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Engine Mount Question


Jim,

Not sure what the break point is but the early TR4s definitely used
the square motor mounts.  The frame for CT288L was a modified TR3
frame from the factory.  You might look at your frame up front and see
if it was a widened TR3 frame or a purpose built TR4 frame.  The
purpose built frame used the round mounts.

Brad


On Wed, Dec 22, 2010 at 5:39 PM, James Henningsen <trguy at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> Happy Holidays! I have an early (Feb 62) TR4 that has rectangle front 
> engine mounts like a TR3. Is this correct for an early TR4 (CT5212LO) or 
> should I have the round TR4 mounts?
> Thanks in advance!
> Jim Henningsen
> Maitland, Fl
> 62 TR4 (all apart in my garage)
> 75 TR6
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com
>
>


From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Dec 22 17:16:42 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 17:16:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Timing Cover Seal
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik9WKSVCQHuo0XYN=buQVKXxnc4b-V61xspcO9D@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTik9WKSVCQHuo0XYN=buQVKXxnc4b-V61xspcO9D@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47EBF69815D04A478052295B7D706478@bboffice>

Somebody mentioned Bondo a few days ago, is this the best substitute in
color and texture?  If so, how think?

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Julien
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 3:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing Cover Seal

And it actually is somewhat effective. When my engine came back from a
rebuild a few years ago stripped of it's sound-deadening material, I
adjusted the valves over and over again trying to get rid of the clatter
before it dawned on me that I was actually hearing the sound of the timing
chain. I've sort of gotten used to it, but if I have the timing chain cover
off again for some other reason, I'll probably try to do something so I
don't have to listen to that any more.

Dan Julien
1970 TR6
CC50337L

On Mon, Dec 20, 2010 at 1:00 PM, <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
> Mine has it as well as many other engines I've seen.  I believe it is 
> a dampening material to hold noise down from the timing chain Pete
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 6:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Timing Cover Seal
>
>
> >>> What is the "stuff" on the outside of the timing chain cover?
> >
> > The best description I ever heard was that it "looks like the last 
> > of a batch of Bondo, applied with a wooden spoon by a man wearing a 
> > blindfold".
> >
> > I am quite sure that neither of my TRs ever had it so it's presence 
> > seems to have been rather capricious.
> >
> > Geo
> >
>
>
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Dec 22 17:32:44 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 19:32:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E0F2A493641042FFBE03432D3784E654@BobPC>

I'm going with broken.........I've gotten maybe 1 or 2 messages a day from 
the Triumph List for the past week and none from the 6-Pack List.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org



-----Original Message----- 
From: pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 4:15 PM
To: wbeech at flash.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

Hmm.  CMusson and Randall think the list is broken.  Perhaps they have 
become unsubscribed?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: wbeech at flash.net
> To: pethier at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 12:05:41 PM
> Subject: RE: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> GOT IT!
>
> MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is
> called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> pethier at comcast.net
> Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 10:58 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> testing triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
> 2004 Suburban 8.1
> 2005 Lotus Elise
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
> http://www.mnautox.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


From trglory at verizon.net  Wed Dec 22 19:10:42 2010
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 21:10:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <E0F2A493641042FFBE03432D3784E654@BobPC>
References: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<E0F2A493641042FFBE03432D3784E654@BobPC>
Message-ID: <008301cba246$9aa4c090$cfee41b0$@net>

Not broken....it' just that the TRs are all bedded down for a long winter's
rest.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 7:33 PM
To: pethier at comcast.net; wbeech at flash.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

I'm going with broken.........I've gotten maybe 1 or 2 messages a day from 
the Triumph List for the past week and none from the 6-Pack List.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org



-----Original Message----- 
From: pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 4:15 PM
To: wbeech at flash.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

Hmm.  CMusson and Randall think the list is broken.  Perhaps they have 
become unsubscribed?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: wbeech at flash.net
> To: pethier at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 12:05:41 PM
> Subject: RE: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> GOT IT!
>
> MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is
> called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> pethier at comcast.net
> Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 10:58 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> testing triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
> 2004 Suburban 8.1
> 2005 Lotus Elise
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
> http://www.mnautox.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net


From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Dec 22 19:56:33 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 19:56:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <008301cba246$9aa4c090$cfee41b0$@net>
References: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<E0F2A493641042FFBE03432D3784E654@BobPC>
	<008301cba246$9aa4c090$cfee41b0$@net>
Message-ID: <CDFCB340-60C5-4B59-A69A-03F740052FDD@comcast.net>

On Dec 22, 2010, at 7:10 PM, Joe Laurito wrote:

> TRs are all bedded down for a long winter's
> rest.

Not quite.  Drove my 6 to the Club Christmas party just 10 days ago.   
Beautiful night and since we haven't scooped snow yet in Denver this  
winter there wasn't any residue sand bits on the roads.  Our semi-arid  
climate is becoming more arid all the time.  My car thrives on being  
driven year round and I don't mind one bit either.  No bedding down  
necessary in this part of the woods.  I'll probably have it out for a  
New Years Day drive if I can.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net



From keithstewart at execulink.com  Wed Dec 22 20:08:50 2010
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 22:08:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine Mount Question
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2270.1293070222.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2270.1293070222.23296.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6D3CA0B2-7BE9-43DC-B57E-9CCA11E88AF2@execulink.com>

James Henningsen asked:

Happy Holidays!  I have an early (Feb 62) TR4 that has rectangle front engine mounts like a TR3.  Is this correct for an early TR4 (CT5212LO) or should I have the round TR4 mounts?  

++++++++++

My 1962 is CT6716LO and I bought it in 1966 and there were no signs the engine had ever been removed as it only had 16 000 miles. The engine mounts were the rectangular ones. The frame certainly does not seem to be any type of modified TR3 frame as some have suggested. What would one look for to identify an extended TR3 frame?

Keith Stewart
1957 TR3
1962 TR4
1967 TR4A

From dlylis at gmail.com  Wed Dec 22 20:18:38 2010
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 03:18:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] New clutch fork from Moss Motors
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin5R=4-tMGo2_pxXyGCXJhn55Nt56m9fJK9xxkV@mail.gmail.com>
References: <7D4C47FC9E5B42ACBBB1854115BE6D15@DaveLaptop><AANLkTin5R=4-tMGo2_pxXyGCXJhn55Nt56m9fJK9xxkV@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1458154815-1293074316-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-378427926-@bda834.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

If they really cared, quality control would have picked it up before they accepted the shipment of the parts. 
Welcome to the Moss quality control team and BTW, sorry for the inconvenience. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 16:15:54 
To: Dave Connitt<dconnitt at fuse.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] New clutch fork from Moss Motors

On 12/19/10, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
>...I am going to call Moss next week and complain but they probably have a whole bin full of what I have.

If your experience is like mine -- they want to know and will do what
they can to make it right.

Geo
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com


From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Dec 22 21:08:31 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 21:08:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <639090266.199215.1293040671999.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <639090266.199215.1293040671999.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4D12CB3F.5060804@bradakis.com>

What makes you think it isn't working?  Are you sending messages that aren't
showing up?  Are you checking http://www.team.net/archive and seeing
lots of messages in the archive that aren't showing up in your mailbox?

What, exactly, do you see as a problem?

mjb.



From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Wed Dec 22 21:12:50 2010
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 20:12:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <4D12CB3F.5060804@bradakis.com>
References: <639090266.199215.1293040671999.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4D12CB3F.5060804@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <498043.50510.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

No problem on my end in CA....Merry Christmas.
Pat




________________________________
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, December 22, 2010 8:08:31 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

What makes you think it isn't working?? Are you sending messages that aren't
showing up?? Are you checking http://www.team.net/archive and seeing
lots of messages in the archive that aren't showing up in your mailbox?

What, exactly, do you see as a problem?

mjb.


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com


      

From tr6parts at charter.net  Wed Dec 22 21:21:27 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 23:21:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><E0F2A493641042FFBE03432D3784E654@BobPC><008301cba246$9aa4c090$cfee41b0$@net>
	<CDFCB340-60C5-4B59-A69A-03F740052FDD@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <71210FA7F21F403CA896D7A0E2BEF5FB@Alan>

No problems in SC

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
To: "Joe Laurito" <trglory at verizon.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net


> On Dec 22, 2010, at 7:10 PM, Joe Laurito wrote:
>
>> TRs are all bedded down for a long winter's
>> rest.
>
> Not quite.  Drove my 6 to the Club Christmas party just 10 days ago. 
> Beautiful night and since we haven't scooped snow yet in Denver this 
> winter there wasn't any residue sand bits on the roads.  Our semi-arid 
> climate is becoming more arid all the time.  My car thrives on being 
> driven year round and I don't mind one bit either.  No bedding down 
> necessary in this part of the woods.  I'll probably have it out for a  New 
> Years Day drive if I can.
>
> Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all.
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net
>
> 



From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Dec 22 21:45:47 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 21:45:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <E0F2A493641042FFBE03432D3784E654@BobPC>
References: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<E0F2A493641042FFBE03432D3784E654@BobPC>
Message-ID: <4D12D3FB.3080501@bradakis.com>

Bob Danielson wrote:
> I'm going with broken.........I've gotten maybe 1 or 2 messages a day 
> from the Triumph List for the past week and none from the 6-Pack List.
So someone sends a message to the list asking if it is broken.  You receive
this message and concur that the list is not working because you aren't 
getting
any messages.

I see.

mjb.



From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Dec 22 22:45:17 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 22:45:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <4D12D3FB.3080501@bradakis.com>
References: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><E0F2A493641042FFBE03432D3784E654@BobPC>
	<4D12D3FB.3080501@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <67A99F2BBD0D4FA3964E65AD7DB86DF1@bboffice>

Mark,

When I check the archives, responses from Randall never hit my mailbox. (no,
not stuck in a SPAM filter)  Don't know why your system picks on just his
emails.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 9:46 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

Bob Danielson wrote:
> I'm going with broken.........I've gotten maybe 1 or 2 messages a day 
> from the Triumph List for the past week and none from the 6-Pack List.
So someone sends a message to the list asking if it is broken.  You receive
this message and concur that the list is not working because you aren't
getting any messages.

I see.

mjb.


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Dec 22 23:17:59 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 23:17:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <008301cba246$9aa4c090$cfee41b0$@net>
References: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>	<E0F2A493641042FFBE03432D3784E654@BobPC>
	<008301cba246$9aa4c090$cfee41b0$@net>
Message-ID: <4D12E997.6060504@gmail.com>

On 12/22/10 7:10 PM, Joe Laurito wrote:
> Not broken....it' just that the TRs are all bedded down for a long winter's
> rest.
>    
Mine is safely away from the snow but I'm afraid instead of being bedded 
down  while the snow covers the ground and salt the highways, mine id 
being molested.

The hard top and boot lid are off getting refinished an repainted.  I 
have hust regauged her.  A Lucas volt meter now sits where the amp meter 
used to be, a dual water temp and oil pressure gauge sits at top left, 
and an oil temperature gauge at bottom left, all with the correct bezels.

I have gone through the electrics fixing some stuff done by mechanics so 
that everything works again.  This included installing a new electric 
fan controller. Next is replacing a broken fuel pressure gauge under the 
bonnet and broken fuel pressure regulator.

Once that's done then I'll allow the TR3 to rest until the streets dry, 
Then it is back out to remind Flagstaff that Triumphs still exist.

Teriann

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Dec 23 08:26:47 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 09:26:47 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
Message-ID: <7135692.1270131.1293118007287.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

It does seem that messages are posting.   I started the question off-list to confirm that others were not getting anything.   Traffic was unusually light for several days - even over the weekend.   There was an email from Geo Hahn at 6pm the 19th and then nothing again until Phil's inquiry to the list on the morning of the 22nd (at about 10am) - the archive confirms this.
 
So the question to the list is - if you sent anything between those two times - it didn't post.  If nothing was sent - then no problem.  

No need to bombard the list with 'I didn't send anything'. If you do have a missing post - resend it and perhaps include "RESEND" in the subject line so that Mark can perhaps figure out what may have happened.  You can check the archive (link below) to see what did and did not post.

BTW - Thanks as usual Mark for your long-time efforts on this and all of the other Team.net lists.  

Carl




Dec 23, 2010 04:41:49 AM, mark at bradakis.com wrote:

Bob Danielson wrote:
> I'm going with broken.........I've gotten maybe 1 or 2 messages a day 
> from the Triumph List for the past week and none from the 6-Pack List.
So someone sends a message to the list asking if it is broken. You receive
this message and concur that the list is not working because you aren't 
getting
any messages.

I see.

mjb.


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From fishplate at charter.net  Thu Dec 23 08:27:09 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 10:27:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <008301cba246$9aa4c090$cfee41b0$@net>
References: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>	<E0F2A493641042FFBE03432D3784E654@BobPC>
	<008301cba246$9aa4c090$cfee41b0$@net>
Message-ID: <4D136A4D.2000208@charter.net>

On 12/22/2010 9:10 PM, Joe Laurito wrote:
> Not broken....it' just that the TRs are all bedded down for a long winter's
> rest.
>    
Not all of 'em.  Despite the record cold here in the Southeatern US, we 
had a brief respite yesterday...sunny and 59 F (15 C).  Had to 
jump-start the 6, but ran a few Christmas errands of mercy in it.  Good 
thing it was warm, made it easier to push-start after a cerebral 
vacation let me shut it off in a parking lot.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From fishplate at charter.net  Thu Dec 23 08:31:12 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 10:31:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info
In-Reply-To: <000301cba20a$832083f0$89618bd0$@navarrette@comcast.net>
References: <559E14BC41BA49579F9BA3221AD2BBBC@p4home>
	<000301cba20a$832083f0$89618bd0$@navarrette@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4D136B40.3010300@charter.net>

On 12/22/2010 2:00 PM, Vance Navarrette wrote:
> ApplicationLift at 1.45   Lift at 1.50    Dur.   Intake     Exhaust     LSA
> Comment
>                                              BTDC ABDC  BBDC ATDC
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>    

>     PI (UK)       0.350      0.372     256    18   58    58   18     110
> Post 1971
>    

> Carb (USA)       0.350      0.372     256    18   58    58   18     110
> Post 1972
>    

Looks like the late PI and USA carb engines have the same cam?  Or is 
this a typo?

From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Thu Dec 23 08:46:30 2010
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 10:46:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info
In-Reply-To: <4D136B40.3010300@charter.net>
References: <559E14BC41BA49579F9BA3221AD2BBBC@p4home>
	<000301cba20a$832083f0$89618bd0$@navarrette@comcast.net>
	<4D136B40.3010300@charter.net>
Message-ID: <006801cba2b8$924293b0$b6c7bb10$@verizon.net>

Is that when the PI power dropped from 150 to 125?

Thanks
Ian
62 TR4


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2010 10:31 AM
To: Vance Navarrette; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info

On 12/22/2010 2:00 PM, Vance Navarrette wrote:
> ApplicationLift at 1.45   Lift at 1.50    Dur.   Intake     Exhaust     LSA
> Comment
>                                              BTDC ABDC  BBDC ATDC
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> ------
>    

>     PI (UK)       0.350      0.372     256    18   58    58   18     110
> Post 1971
>    

> Carb (USA)       0.350      0.372     256    18   58    58   18     110
> Post 1972
>    

Looks like the late PI and USA carb engines have the same cam?  Or is this a
typo?
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lbc.resto at verizon.net


From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Thu Dec 23 09:11:52 2010
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 11:11:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <7135692.1270131.1293118007287.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
References: <7135692.1270131.1293118007287.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
Message-ID: <006a01cba2bc$1d5210e0$57f632a0$@verizon.net>

I am having sporadic luck.  I sent one yesterday and it got rejected as
being "Your message was too big; please trim it to less than 4 KB in size."
It wasn't that long (about the same as the one below) and I have seen longer
posts.

I figured it was a glitch and did a resend earlier today; no sign of it yet.

After that I did a reply to the PI cam post and it went through just fine.

I just sent a message to  triumphs-owner at autox.team.net as the automated
response instructed and it got immediately rejected.

Wonder if this one will get through.

Thanks
Ian
62 TR4


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of cfmtr3a at verizon.net
Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2010 10:27 AM
To: mark at bradakis.com
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

It does seem that messages are posting.   I started the question off-list to
confirm that others were not getting anything.   Traffic was unusually light
for several days - even over the weekend.   There was an email from Geo Hahn
at 6pm the 19th and then nothing again until Phil's inquiry to the list on
the morning of the 22nd (at about 10am) - the archive confirms this.
 
So the question to the list is - if you sent anything between those two
times - it didn't post.  If nothing was sent - then no problem.  

No need to bombard the list with 'I didn't send anything'. If you do have a
missing post - resend it and perhaps include "RESEND" in the subject line so
that Mark can perhaps figure out what may have happened.  You can check the
archive (link below) to see what did and did not post.

BTW - Thanks as usual Mark for your long-time efforts on this and all of the
other Team.net lists.  

Carl




Dec 23, 2010 04:41:49 AM, mark at bradakis.com wrote:

Bob Danielson wrote:
> I'm going with broken.........I've gotten maybe 1 or 2 messages a day 
> from the Triumph List for the past week and none from the 6-Pack List.
So someone sends a message to the list asking if it is broken. You receive
this message and concur that the list is not working because you aren't
getting any messages.

I see.

mjb.


_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From akgraves at cox.net  Thu Dec 23 12:42:55 2010
From: akgraves at cox.net (akgraves at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 14:42:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] Timing Cover Seal
Message-ID: <20101223144255.BGGS8.67620.imail@eastrmwml28>

> 
> And it actually is somewhat effective. When my engine came back from a
> rebuild a few years ago stripped of it's sound-deadening material, I
> adjusted the valves over and over again trying to get rid of the clatter
> before it dawned on me that I was actually hearing the sound of the timing
> chain.
> 
> Dan Julien
> 1970 TR6
> CC50337L

I'm glad to know this.  I have installed two rebuilt engines in my TR6 this year and thought both of them had excessive valve clatter - despite adjusting the valves several times.  There was some 'stuff' on my original timing cover, but I removed that because it looked messy.  Maybe I'll add some other material to deaden the sound.  Thanks for sharing your experiences, Dan!

Art Graves
1976 Triumph TR6
Tulsa, OK


From tr6parts at charter.net  Thu Dec 23 13:24:00 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 15:24:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <7135692.1270131.1293118007287.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
	<006a01cba2bc$1d5210e0$57f632a0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <F7C280ABBB144B0081901DA4057F6905@Alan>

You need to delete the other messages that are tagging along with it.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "LBC.Resto" <lbc.resto at verizon.net>
To: <mark at bradakis.com>
Cc: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2010 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net


>I am having sporadic luck.  I sent one yesterday and it got rejected as
> being "Your message was too big; please trim it to less than 4 KB in 
> size."
> It wasn't that long (about the same as the one below) and I have seen 
> longer
> posts.
>
> I figured it was a glitch and did a resend earlier today; no sign of it 
> yet.
>
> After that I did a reply to the PI cam post and it went through just fine.
>



From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Thu Dec 23 13:57:08 2010
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 15:57:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <F7C280ABBB144B0081901DA4057F6905@Alan>
References: <7135692.1270131.1293118007287.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
	<006a01cba2bc$1d5210e0$57f632a0$@verizon.net>
	<F7C280ABBB144B0081901DA4057F6905@Alan>
Message-ID: <00ac01cba2e3$f7389eb0$e5a9dc10$@verizon.net>

My initial message didn't have any tagging along with it and it was shorter
than some of the ones I see on here.

-----Original Message-----
From: Al Salvatore [mailto:tr6parts at charter.net] 
Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2010 3:24 PM
To: LBC.Resto
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

You need to delete the other messages that are tagging along with it.


From FrankB at saceboard.sa.gov.au  Thu Dec 23 15:08:18 2010
From: FrankB at saceboard.sa.gov.au (Biedermann, Frank (SACE Board))
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 08:38:18 +1030
Subject: [TR] [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info
In-Reply-To: <006801cba2b8$924293b0$b6c7bb10$@verizon.net>
References: <559E14BC41BA49579F9BA3221AD2BBBC@p4home>
	<000301cba20a$832083f0$89618bd0$@navarrette@comcast.net>
	<4D136B40.3010300@charter.net>
	<006801cba2b8$924293b0$b6c7bb10$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <D787E4A7A969494ABF85EE0730C2A38273CD342CB5@EMSCM008.sagemsmrd01.sa.gov.au>

Yes, you're both correct as far as I know. Both the late TR6 PI and late Carb models had the 311399 cam with specs below. The early TR6 PI cam (307689) produced 150 BHP, and had timings of 35-65/65-35 and 0.375" lift.

Hope that helps,

Frank Biedermann
'69 TR6 PI
Adelaide, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of LBC.Resto
Sent: Friday, 24 December 2010 2:17 AM
To: 'Jeff Scarbrough'; 'Vance Navarrette'; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info

Is that when the PI power dropped from 150 to 125?

Thanks
Ian
62 TR4


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2010 10:31 AM
To: Vance Navarrette; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info

On 12/22/2010 2:00 PM, Vance Navarrette wrote:
> ApplicationLift at 1.45   Lift at 1.50    Dur.   Intake     Exhaust     LSA
> Comment
>                                              BTDC ABDC  BBDC ATDC
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> ------
>    

>     PI (UK)       0.350      0.372     256    18   58    58   18     110
> Post 1971
>    

> Carb (USA)       0.350      0.372     256    18   58    58   18     110
> Post 1972
>    

Looks like the late PI and USA carb engines have the same cam?  Or is this a typo?
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frankb at saceboard.sa.gov.au


From peterara at msn.com  Thu Dec 23 17:32:27 2010
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 16:32:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] New clutch fork from Moss Motors
Message-ID: <COL122-DS11652EFDF1E63CDAB8FDB9C11D0@phx.gbl>

>If they really cared, quality control would have picked it up before they accepted the shipment of the parts. 
Welcome to the Moss quality control team and BTW, sorry for the inconvenience. 


Those of you who know me will understand my response, if you don't let's meet some time.

GET A GRIP!!!

I have already had a discussion with the lister with the problem.  I have advised him to contact tech support to fully explain the problem  I have also advised that this comes from Moss UK and we rely on them for QC in these cases.  
Good or bad, we get 100's of shipments every day.  We do not inspect every incoming part on each shipment.  We do inspect first articles and first shipments.
I have also told him how rapidly Moss will respond to his complaint by freezing the part and taking whatever action is necessary to help him. 

Peter


From trglory at verizon.net  Thu Dec 23 20:00:46 2010
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 22:00:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] testing triumphs@autox.team.net
In-Reply-To: <4D136A4D.2000208@charter.net>
References: <680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<E0F2A493641042FFBE03432D3784E654@BobPC>	<008301cba246$9aa4c090$cfee41b0$@net>
	<4D136A4D.2000208@charter.net>
Message-ID: <00a301cba316$c3d56020$4b802060$@net>

The weatherman predicts a weekend of snow in this neck of the woods. The
batteries are disconnected, the tenders are tending and there is a peaceful
moonlit silence. Soon enough, the snarl of Triumphs will once again be
heard.

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2010 10:27 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] testing triumphs at autox.team.net

On 12/22/2010 9:10 PM, Joe Laurito wrote:
> Not broken....it' just that the TRs are all bedded down for a long
winter's
> rest.
>    
Not all of 'em.  Despite the record cold here in the Southeatern US, we 
had a brief respite yesterday...sunny and 59 F (15 C).  Had to 
jump-start the 6, but ran a few Christmas errands of mercy in it.  Good 
thing it was warm, made it easier to push-start after a cerebral 
vacation let me shut it off in a parking lot.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________


From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Thu Dec 23 21:36:52 2010
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 23:36:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Thank You & Merry Christmas
Message-ID: <000801cba324$30546ae0$90fd40a0$@verizon.net>

This is ridiculous.  I have been trying to send out a thank-you message for
24 hours and it keeps rejecting it because it is too big.  Not so, but here
is the abrupt version.

I'm going to sell my TR4 and a newly rebuilt TR6 OD in the new year.  Thanks
to all who gave guidance that helped me get it back on the road.  If you
know anyone who is looking, please contact me off-list.

Thanks
Ian
62 TR4
70 E-type OTS


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 24 00:07:58 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 23:07:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] New clutch fork from Moss Motors
In-Reply-To: <COL122-DS11652EFDF1E63CDAB8FDB9C11D0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL122-DS11652EFDF1E63CDAB8FDB9C11D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7B99F79834AE4C10A4977228C61D9EEB@Meislaptop>

> We do not inspect every
> incoming part on each shipment.  

And that is a Good Thing, IMO.  I certainly do not want to have to pay the
extra cost of 100% incoming inspection.

Remember that $700 hammer?  If you start listing all the ways that such an
item could be tested (starting with hardness of the steel in multiple
places, radius of curvature on the face, moisture content of the handle,
type of wood, etc, etc) and then figuring what it would cost to have someone
competent to do all those tests, plus all the tools required, and a shop to
do them in, and so on; $700 for a $10 hammer starts looking like a bargain.

Randall


From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Dec 24 04:48:49 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 11:48:49 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR6PI camshaft and US spec variances
Message-ID: <405647.55244.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

When power output dropped from 150 to 125 with the introduction of the milder 
cam, the factory claimed it had improved torque.?IMHO I always felt the earlier 
PI car had more?torque than the later one. Drove many versions of both PI 
varieties, as well as the US spec variant, and the only thing about the later PI 
variant was it was certainly a smoother running car and better in heavy traffic. 
The key reason for introducing the 125bhp car was that the cam?made the PI for 
Germany and France a little better for early emission control requirements in 
those countries and as those regulations were soon to go into more Euro markets, 
it was decided to make the car 'fit' forthcoming legislation.

Jonmac



      

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri Dec 24 09:08:00 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 08:08:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] The "List"
Message-ID: <001701cba384$bd08eb40$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>



> The list is fine, most people are working and shopping so it's a bit lean.
> Merry Christmas and thank you to all contributors.
> Regards,
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <triumphs-request at autox.team.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2010 11:00 AM
> Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 555



From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Fri Dec 24 12:35:47 2010
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 14:35:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre HMCC7001 & Windows7
Message-ID: <4d14f613.22.3c9e.6354@cogeco.ca>

Hi listers,

Where would I get product support for the Heritage Motor Centre branded "manuals on a CD" product.   I've just
discovered it no longer works once you upgrade your PC to Windows 7 and since I can't load it I can't read any contact
info that might be inside the product.

The HMC website makes no reference to it and their store microsite is offline.

Thanks,

Art

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Dec 24 12:50:01 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 13:50:01 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre HMCC7001 & Windows7
Message-ID: <3269774.1337143.1293220201274.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

It is my understanding that the software only works up to Windows XP - Windows Vista or 7 will not work.  I know for a fact that it doesn't work with VIsta - ISTR that someone on the list said the same was true for 7.  For that reason my shop computer (an old; out-dated; replaced; system) still has XP on it.

www.markgreer-associates.com/  is the link provided on the disk (it flashes by real quick when you close the program) 

If you find anything different - let us know.
Carl


Dec 24, 2010 07:36:36 PM, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote:

Hi listers,

Where would I get product support for the Heritage Motor Centre branded "manuals on a CD" product. I've just
discovered it no longer works once you upgrade your PC to Windows 7 and since I can't load it I can't read any contact
info that might be inside the product.

The HMC website makes no reference to it and their store microsite is offline.

Thanks,

Art
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Dec 24 14:09:47 2010
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 16:09:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] season's greetings and other stuff
Message-ID: <4D14C5CB.9533.23E46DCB@localhost>

First, let me wish everyone happy, safe, and peaceful holidays!

I've been out of touch for a few months, it seems.  Way too much to 
do, some mechanical.  Lately I've been in a slow process to bring 
back to life a piece of French machinery, a Peugeot TH8.  That's 
tandem bicycle they made in the early 80's.  This is my sweetie's and 
my Christmas present to each other so she can ride with me this 
coming year.  Between that effort, the weather, and other domestic 
concerns I haven't had much time for LBC stuff.  At least I can work 
on the TH8 in the basement.

LBC work does happen sometimes though.  I just finished the last 
details getting the gearbox back in the GT6, then drove it around the 
block.  The good news is that the squeaky noises I heard are totally 
gone.  It is totally quiet (considering the car it is in).  Even the 
whining on overrun in 2nd is gone.  So the needle bearing between 
input and main shafts was the culprit.

The bad news is that something is amiss with 1st.  On overrun it acts 
like it wants to kick out.  It starts making a clicking noise like 
the dog teeth are scraping.  "Shifting" it back into gear, i.e. de-
clutching and pushing the lever back into gear makes it grind as if 
the synchros are bad.  Curiously, it had no such problem before I 
took it apart.  Maybe I put something together wrong but danged if I 
know what.  I'm open to suggestions.  Unfortunately it means pulling 
it out again.  If it's is worth doing once, it's worth doing twice, 
right? :-(

The TH8 is an intersting machine.  First, some of the components use 
French standard sizes, obsolete since even the French moved away from 
them starting in the early 80's.  The rear hub, made by Atom, a 
traditional French brand back then, is a monstrous device with a 
solid spindle (no quick release skewer) nearly 11mm in diameter.  It 
has a drum brake, necessary for touring tandems to do long descents 
without heating the wheels with rim brakes so much that the tires pop 
off the rims.  This will be have a triple chainring set and a 6-speed 
freewheel.

I've probably reached the character limit here.  Must sign off.

Cheers, everyone!


Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com


From tr4zest at gmail.com  Fri Dec 24 14:41:56 2010
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 16:41:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Timing cover goop; Moss quality; message delivery
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=fNc3Dx8Lwy14VXRU-X7cc8H3E_B+ExiGFeE1A@mail.gmail.com>

My TR4 came goopless on the timing cover. I've seen other engines with goop,
and it looks like a scooped handful, a dollop, on the cover. I don't know
what the material was, but the Spit cover that I picked at was fibrous.
Maybe it was asbestos? I think a dense epoxy mix should be a reasonable
facsimile, like those bars that are like a stick of rock that you mix
together. I'm sure we can find cheaper, but this is illustrative:
http://www.amazon.com/Magic-Epoxy-Stick-stick-PRICE/dp/B00065TLHC

On Moss quality, I've only very rarely been disappointed, and I have bought
dozens and dozens of things, like all here, over a number of years. They
have always responded well, and lets remember: we have a symbiotic
relationship. We wouldn't have a hobby without them, they wouldn't have a
business without enthusiasts like us. Randall is right, the cost of
part-by-part quality control would kill-off my participation in this
endeavour. My experience is that if something doesn't work or doesn't fit,
give them a call. They will respond.

I sometimes find even short messages don't reach the list. In hindsight, in
my case, this is usually to the benefit of the list.

Merry Christmas,

Brian

From salty1249y at gmail.com  Fri Dec 24 14:58:57 2010
From: salty1249y at gmail.com (Michael Burdick)
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 16:58:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre HMCC7001 & Windows7
In-Reply-To: <3269774.1337143.1293220201274.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
References: <3269774.1337143.1293220201274.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi==kp1uvs_5c2Tm2yteSbCLZ_x6S3bpSswvZ=MO@mail.gmail.com>

That is a good solution Carl.  For those without a spare computer to
dedicate to the shop, you can run the software in an XP virtual machine in
VMware on both Windows 7 and Ubuntu (haven't tried Vista).  A funny thing I
noticed is that the Heritage software gave me a message at startup saying it
wouldn't run in a virtual machine, but it proceeded to run just fine.

Hope this helps,
Mike Burdick
Durham NC

On Fri, Dec 24, 2010 at 2:50 PM, <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

> It is my understanding that the software only works up to Windows XP -
> Windows Vista or 7 will not work.  I know for a fact that it doesn't work
> with VIsta - ISTR that someone on the list said the same was true for 7.
>  For that reason my shop computer (an old; out-dated; replaced; system)
> still has XP on it.
>
>

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Dec 24 15:44:05 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 22:44:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Timing cover goop; Moss quality; message delivery
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=fNc3Dx8Lwy14VXRU-X7cc8H3E_B+ExiGFeE1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <174125881.297692.1293230645342.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>On Moss quality, ...My experience is that if something doesn't work or doesn't fit,
>give them a call. They will respond.

Missed the thread that started this, but amen to the above.  I had ordered windwings from Moss for my TR3A.  The clamps snapped.  When I called them, they sent replacements, not for just the clamps, but the whole windwing.  Decided to fabricate better quality clamps and sent them the replacement windwings back.  Couldn't be happier with that kind of service!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667
New Hampshire

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 25 01:20:22 2010
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 25 Dec 2010 00:20:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre HMCC7001 & Windows7
In-Reply-To: <4d14f613.22.3c9e.6354@cogeco.ca>
References: <4d14f613.22.3c9e.6354@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <CA547179233E4D95849122BB465791E7@Meislaptop>

There is some chatter on the 'net about how to defeat the copy protection
scheme.  Try Googling for 'hexalock'.  However, you'll need a working XP
machine to defeat the copy protection.  Once you've got the unprotected
files, you can burn them to a CD that will work properly on anything.

-- Randall


From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sat Dec 25 05:58:46 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sat, 25 Dec 2010 06:58:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre HMCC7001 & Windows7
In-Reply-To: <CA547179233E4D95849122BB465791E7@Meislaptop>
References: <4d14f613.22.3c9e.6354@cogeco.ca>,
	<CA547179233E4D95849122BB465791E7@Meislaptop>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W63896F1D181DE9EF71901EE11E0@phx.gbl>


According to the hexalock.com site there is a Vista_EXE_fix_utility.  
I do not have any of these disk, so I have not tried the utility.
 
This is the URL I was looking at...
http://hexalock.co.il/support/faq/

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA 
'63 TR3B TCF587L 
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! 



 
> From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com
> To: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 25 Dec 2010 00:20:22 -0800
> Subject: Re: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre HMCC7001 & Windows7
> 
> There is some chatter on the 'net about how to defeat the copy protection
> scheme. Try Googling for 'hexalock'. However, you'll need a working XP
> machine to defeat the copy protection. Once you've got the unprotected
> files, you can burn them to a CD that will work properly on anything.
> 
> -- Randall
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
> 
 		 	   		  

From jdabars at att.net  Sat Dec 25 13:04:12 2010
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Sat, 25 Dec 2010 12:04:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: Neat car stuff from UK**************
Message-ID: <384737.87825.qm@web83705.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>





----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars at att.net>
To: John Dabars <jdabars at att.net>
Sent: Sat, December 25, 2010 3:02:32 PM
Subject: Fw: Neat car stuff from UK**************






----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars at att.net>
To: John Dabars <jdabars at att.net>
Sent: Sat, December 25, 2010 2:59:20 PM
Subject: Neat car stuff from UK


enter ratsportscouk? in web search and klick on web search? then klick on? Its 
Nearly Christmas.?? LOTS of neat stuff and prices seem reasonable

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 25 13:26:03 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sat, 25 Dec 2010 12:26:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] timing cover goop
Message-ID: <979038.75801.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I remember cleaning the goop off the last engine i re-built and simply 
re-finishing with paint.  Maybe it's my imagination but I think I can now hear 
the "steely" sound of the timing chain whirling if i listen closely and I love 
that!  So I'm glad I left it off.
happy holidays to all!

gary n.


      

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun Dec 26 12:08:47 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2010 14:08:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Seelastik alternative
Message-ID: <C84854BF99D3424E81743A2405A3175F@TRGUY>

Anyone know the modern replacement for the "Seelastik" body seam sealer mentioned in the factory workshop manuals. I have some seams that I would like to re-seal while I have the car apart. 
Thanks,
Jim

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Dec 26 14:08:45 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2010 16:08:45 EST
Subject: [TR] Seelastik alternative
Message-ID: <2971.4b940a46.3a4908dd@cs.com>

The manufacturers are now using a polyurethane seam sealer made by Fuzor.  
Last I saw it was available in caulcking gun cartridtges so you can use a 
regular hardware store variety gun but when I used it on my TR8 I had to buy 
their special gun that used their plastic bladders.  It's strong, it's 
paintable and if you want to use it on something you want to take apart later find 
something else.  (I recommend Dum Dum)

You should be able to find it at most auto paint stores.

Dave

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Dec 26 14:53:27 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2010 16:53:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Seelastik alternative
In-Reply-To: <C84854BF99D3424E81743A2405A3175F@TRGUY>
References: <C84854BF99D3424E81743A2405A3175F@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <4D17B957.6000200@blacksburg.net>

On 12/26/2010 2:08 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
> Anyone know the modern replacement for the "Seelastik" body seam sealer mentioned in the factory workshop manuals. I have some seams that I would like to re-seal while I have the car apart.
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
>    
James T. Davis has a tube of non-setting seam sealer for $13.  It works 
in a standard caulking gun.  One tube will probably do your entire TR4.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go



From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Dec 26 20:20:44 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2010 21:20:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Registry
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W63896F1D181DE9EF71901EE11E0@phx.gbl>
References: <4d14f613.22.3c9e.6354@cogeco.ca>,
	<CA547179233E4D95849122BB465791E7@Meislaptop>
	<SNT123-W63896F1D181DE9EF71901EE11E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <688A9C16C9CB42B08389D5A65382E6F6@ranteer.local>

?Hello, all.

I was inspired by the TR2 Registry being put together under the auspices of the VTR.

I would be happy to do this for TR3?s, if there is an interest.

I?ve started the list with mine, and a friend?s here in Dallas.

feel free to send me info if you are so inclined.

Dave Northrup
Red River Triumph Club
Dallas, TX


http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/TR3Registry/


From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Thu Dec 23 06:12:48 2010
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 08:12:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] It's not goodbye, just farewell...
Message-ID: <004c01cba2a3$193454a0$4b9cfde0$@verizon.net>

I always planned on keeping the TR4 unless I could get hold of a TR5 again
(used to have one in the UK) - highly unlikely given the scarcity and cost
of them over in Europe. 

 

Another car I always wanted, but didn't think I would ever have a chance of
affording as a hobby was a convertible Jag E-type Series 1 or 2. Well one
came along at a price I couldn't refuse, so I snapped it up.  It's a 1970
model that needed new floors and sills; the repairs are coming on nicely AND
under budget so far - yeah.   

 

While we are excited to have it, we are both sad that the TR4 is going to
have to go due to garage limitations. I will be putting it up for sale in
the New Year in time for driving season. Before I do, I wanted to advise
(and thank) those who have helped me in so many ways to get this car back on
the road.

 

I never quite got around to doing the overdrive conversion as the original
box was fine and "if it ain't broke don't fix it"; the freshly rebuilt TR6
OD box is in the garage waiting to be installed.

 

So I am swapping one model that is celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2011
for another - ironic.

 

Merry Christmas to all.

 

Thanks

Ian

62 TR4

70 E-Type Jaguar OTS

 


From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 27 08:19:24 2010
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 09:19:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Registry
In-Reply-To: <688A9C16C9CB42B08389D5A65382E6F6@ranteer.local>
References: <4d14f613.22.3c9e.6354@cogeco.ca>, ,
	<CA547179233E4D95849122BB465791E7@Meislaptop>,
	<SNT123-W63896F1D181DE9EF71901EE11E0@phx.gbl>,
	<688A9C16C9CB42B08389D5A65382E6F6@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <SNT123-w30881E614C7AFB218B9271E1000@phx.gbl>


Are you going to include TR3As and Bs?

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA 
'63 TR3B TCF###L 
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! 



 
> From: dave at ranteer.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2010 21:20:44 -0600
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Registry
> 
> ?Hello, all.
> 
> I was inspired by the TR2 Registry being put together under the auspices of the VTR.
> 
> I would be happy to do this for TR3?s, if there is an interest.
> 
> I?ve started the list with mine, and a friend?s here in Dallas.
> 
> feel free to send me info if you are so inclined.
> 
> Dave Northrup
> Red River Triumph Club
> Dallas, TX
> 
> 
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/TR3Registry/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
> 
 		 	   		  

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Dec 27 09:03:58 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 16:03:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] It's not goodbye, just farewell...
In-Reply-To: <004c01cba2a3$193454a0$4b9cfde0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <35016532.350472.1293465838953.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I know just how you feel.  Our beloved TR4 of ten years had to move out to make way for uncle jack.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "LBC.Resto" <lbc.resto at verizon.net>
 
> While we are excited to have it, we are both sad that the TR4 is going
> to
> have to go due to garage limitations. I will be putting it up for sale
> in
> the New Year in time for driving season. Before I do, I wanted to
> advise
> (and thank) those who have helped me in so many ways to get this car
> back on
> the road.

From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Mon Dec 27 09:40:12 2010
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 11:40:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] It's not goodbye, just farewell...
In-Reply-To: <35016532.350472.1293465838953.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <004c01cba2a3$193454a0$4b9cfde0$@verizon.net>
	<35016532.350472.1293465838953.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <006801cba5e4$bc3e30f0$34ba92d0$@verizon.net>

Phil,

I had the pleasure of being in the group that escorted John MaCartney and
uncle jack across Chester County, PA.

Thanks
Ian
62 TR4

-----Original Message-----
From: pethier at comcast.net [mailto:pethier at comcast.net] 
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2010 11:04 AM
To: LBC.Resto
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] It's not goodbye, just farewell...

I know just how you feel.  Our beloved TR4 of ten years had to move out to
make way for uncle jack.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "LBC.Resto" <lbc.resto at verizon.net>
 
> While we are excited to have it, we are both sad that the TR4 is going 
> to have to go due to garage limitations. I will be putting it up for 
> sale in the New Year in time for driving season. Before I do, I wanted 
> to advise (and thank) those who have helped me in so many ways to get 
> this car back on the road.


From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Dec 27 09:59:28 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 16:59:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] It's not goodbye, just farewell...
In-Reply-To: <1567056611.353262.1293469065997.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1708356084.353342.1293469168328.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



----- Original Message -----

> From: "LBC.Resto" <lbc.resto at verizon.net>
>> Phil,
> 
> I had the pleasure of being in the group that escorted John MaCartney
> and
> uncle jack across Chester County, PA.
> 
> Thanks
> Ian
> 62 TR4

I had the pleasure of escorting John from Iowa to Fargo North Dakota.  I expect the drive was more scenic in your case.  As I told John at the time, "There are some wonderful sports-car and scenic drives in Minnesota and western Wisconsin.  You are not going to see any of them."

I have not been in Chester County, but Sue and I did get to some of the covered bridges in Lancaster County.  Unfortunately not in uncle jack, but in our Suburban while we were in Pennsylvania for the Lotus Owners Gathering in Gettysburg.

I wish you the best of luck in finding a proper home for your TR4.  Mine wound up going to a new owner in San Antonio Texas (where I bought it) through the efforts of bringatrailer.com.  I'm wishing all the best for it back in it's old stomping grounds.

uncle jack didn't make it out to any of the major Triumph gatherings in 2010, but it will be going back to Fargo for the Rendezvous in June, and to the VTR convention in Colorado in August.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 27 10:17:50 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 09:17:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] fargo in june
Message-ID: <484078.23484.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I saw Fargo mentioned in June.  I've missed that information through any other 
media.  Whats that occasion and dates?

thanks!

gary n.


      

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 27 10:58:54 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 12:58:54 EST
Subject: [TR] fargo in june
Message-ID: <584e2.13486694.3a4a2dde@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/27/2010 11:22:18 AM Central Standard Time, 
nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: 
> I saw Fargo mentioned in June.  I've missed that information through any 
> other 
> media.  Whats that occasion and dates?
> 
> 
Could this be it?

http://www.britishcar.ca/rendezvous.htm

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Dec 27 11:09:19 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 18:09:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] fargo in june
In-Reply-To: <1604187090.356693.1293473289454.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1191246460.356771.1293473359038.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

The British Iron Society of Fargo, North Dakota invites you to
Rendezvous on the Red
at the 21st Annual Vintage Sports Car Rendezvous
June 16, 17, 18, 19, 2011, in Fargo, North Dakota, USA

Hotel: Contact Hilton Garden Inn-Fargo for hotel room reservations @ 1-800-Hiltons.
A block of rooms are held under British Iron Society

The registration form is online on page 18 of the December 2010 issue of InterMarque Monthly, which can be found at this URL:
http://intermarque.org/imm.newsletters.html   

Event questions can be emailed to mail at BritishIronSociety.com
website www.BritishIronSociety.com




Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com


----- Original Message -----

> From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, December 27, 2010 11:17:50 AM
> Subject: [TR] fargo in june
> 
> I saw Fargo mentioned in June.  I've missed that information through
> any other 
> media.  Whats that occasion and dates?
> 
> thanks!
> 
> gary n.
> 
> 
>       
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Mon Dec 27 12:59:17 2010
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (pdonnel1 at san.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 19:59:17 +0000
Subject: [TR] U-joints - which ones & how to prep
Message-ID: <20101227195917.DSGI0.84315.root@hrndva-web10-z02>

I need to replace the two u-joints in the drive shaft of my 4A. Couple of questions:

1. There's 3 on the market. A cheapo aftermarket version for about $15, the Hardy-Spicer at $18, and Goodparts has a beefier version at $28. As far as I can tell the cheapo version doesn't have a grease fitting. Recommendations as to which one?
2. On the ones I've replaced in the past I've put in white Lithium wheel grease. Is there a better grease? Or,just leave them alone?

Johnnie
'67 TR4A

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Dec 27 14:01:10 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 14:01:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] U-joints - which ones & how to prep
In-Reply-To: <20101227195917.DSGI0.84315.root@hrndva-web10-z02>
References: <20101227195917.DSGI0.84315.root@hrndva-web10-z02>
Message-ID: <18E03A3BC9C74293BEE18B10CB5DCFE8@Vista>

If the TR4A U-Joints follow suit  as the ones for Spitfires do, I would
recommend avoiding any of the "El Cheapo" ones generally obtained from most
auto parts stores.  The Hardy Spicer (or Dana Spicer) brands are far
superior and not much more expensive.  Don't know about the Goodparts ones
but I would trust the name.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pdonnel1 at san.rr.com
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2010 12:59 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] U-joints - which ones & how to prep

I need to replace the two u-joints in the drive shaft of my 4A. Couple of
questions:

1. There's 3 on the market. A cheapo aftermarket version for about $15, the
Hardy-Spicer at $18, and Goodparts has a beefier version at $28. As far as I
can tell the cheapo version doesn't have a grease fitting. Recommendations
as to which one?
2. On the ones I've replaced in the past I've put in white Lithium wheel
grease. Is there a better grease? Or,just leave them alone?

Johnnie
'67 TR4A
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net


From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Mon Dec 27 14:09:44 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 16:09:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Lock Question
Message-ID: <20E3B47BED3D4E8D990297C717D4FB40@TRGUY>

I don't know if anyone keeps these around or not, but I am looking for a glove box "cubby" lock to match the trunk lid.  I have an FP 669 glove box lock and need an FP 695.  The car originally came with 695 and I would like to keep it that way if possible. Many thanks to everyone for all the answers to my questions and parts requests!  The project is going well.
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From klassiccar at aol.com  Mon Dec 27 15:10:00 2010
From: klassiccar at aol.com (klassiccar at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 17:10:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] not goodbye, just farewell
Message-ID: <8CD7429F0321872-91C-3E66D@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>


 Ian,

Just wanted to let you know, that just because you are sending the TR off to a new home, you are still welcome to play with your TR buddies. Make sure you come Show the E type off when you get it on the road.

Steve Klein
Delaware Valley Triumphs

Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 08:12:48 -0500
From: "LBC.Resto" <lbc.resto at verizon.net>
Subject: [TR] It's not goodbye, just farewell...
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <004c01cba2a3$193454a0$4b9cfde0$@verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="US-ASCII"

I always planned on keeping the TR4 unless I could get hold of a TR5 again
(used to have one in the UK) - highly unlikely given the scarcity and cost
of them over in Europe. 

 

Another car I always wanted, but didn't think I would ever have a chance of
affording as a hobby was a convertible Jag E-type Series 1 or 2. Well one
came along at a price I couldn't refuse, so I snapped it up.  It's a 1970
model that needed new floors and sills; the repairs are coming on nicely AND
under budget so far - yeah.   

 

While we are excited to have it, we are both sad that the TR4 is going to
have to go due to garage limitations. I will be putting it up for sale in
the New Year in time for driving season. Before I do, I wanted to advise
(and thank) those who have helped me in so many ways to get this car back on
the road.

 

I never quite got around to doing the overdrive conversion as the original
box was fine and "if it ain't broke don't fix it"; the freshly rebuilt TR6
OD box is in the garage waiting to be installed.

 

So I am swapping one model that is celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2011
for another - ironic.

 

Merry Christmas to all.

 

Thanks

Ian

62 TR4

70 E-Type Jaguar OTS


From team.net at daveola.com  Mon Dec 27 15:21:43 2010
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 14:21:43 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Registry
In-Reply-To: <688A9C16C9CB42B08389D5A65382E6F6@ranteer.local>
References: <688A9C16C9CB42B08389D5A65382E6F6@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <E1PXLTU-0004fH-VU@davesource.com>

> I was inspired by the TR2 Registry being put together under the 
> auspices of the VTR.
> 
> I would be happy to do this for TR3?s, if there is an interest.

Before you reinvent the wheel, check out:

http://www.trregistry.com/

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
-------------------- Self Help Wanted - Inquire Within --------------------

From darrellw at ipns.com  Mon Dec 27 15:26:58 2010
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 14:26:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Lock Question
In-Reply-To: <20E3B47BED3D4E8D990297C717D4FB40@TRGUY>
References: <20E3B47BED3D4E8D990297C717D4FB40@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <A85BF3D1-2CC8-4460-87D2-39392EA117A0@ipns.com>


Hi Jim,

One thing you can do it to remove the cylinder, insert the key you want to use with the lock, and then file down the pins so that the key will work in that lock.  That also makes it such that other keys besides the new key and the original key would operate the lock, but since most folks won't even have keys that fit, I don't think it is opening up too big of a security risk.

-Darrell

On Dec 27, 2010, at 1:09 PM, James Henningsen wrote:

> I don't know if anyone keeps these around or not, but I am looking for a glove box "cubby" lock to match the trunk lid.  I have an FP 669 glove box lock and need an FP 695.  The car originally came with 695 and I would like to keep it that way if possible. Many thanks to everyone for all the answers to my questions and parts requests!  The project is going well.
> Jim Henningsen
> Maitland, FL
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw at ipns.com
> 



-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA



From brad.kahler at 141.com  Mon Dec 27 15:42:41 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 17:42:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Free: TR7 5-speed transmission
Message-ID: <AANLkTikY4VuokyhDjjk4sjpu9zSMyFZNxBW8mnw64zQM@mail.gmail.com>

I have a TR7 5-speed transmission that is available free if you can
make arrangements to pick it up in Richmond Kentucky.  If no one
claims it I don't have any choice but to send it to the scrap yard.

Anyone?

Brad

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 27 15:43:13 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 14:43:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Registry
In-Reply-To: <E1PXLTU-0004fH-VU@davesource.com>
References: <688A9C16C9CB42B08389D5A65382E6F6@ranteer.local>
	<E1PXLTU-0004fH-VU@davesource.com>
Message-ID: <80304.59365.qm@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

is it me or can you no longer just browse down the list of entries?
Frank
TS41366L




________________________________
From: David Ljung Madison <team.net at daveola.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, December 27, 2010 2:21:43 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Registry

> I was inspired by the TR2 Registry being put together under the 
> auspices of the VTR.
> 
> I would be happy to do this for TR3?s, if there is an interest.

Before you reinvent the wheel, check out:

http://www.trregistry.com/

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison? ? ? ? ? http://GetDave.com/? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? 415.341.5555
-------------------- Self Help Wanted - Inquire Within --------------------
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Dec 27 16:12:32 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 16:12:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Lock Question
In-Reply-To: <A85BF3D1-2CC8-4460-87D2-39392EA117A0@ipns.com>
References: <20E3B47BED3D4E8D990297C717D4FB40@TRGUY>
	<A85BF3D1-2CC8-4460-87D2-39392EA117A0@ipns.com>
Message-ID: <7C1F8573C97741BC8ABBCA54C99D6FE4@Vista>

Even better, if you can get some other cylinders from other locks; you can
remove the pins from the other cylinders and using a trial and error
approach, insert the pins in the cylinder so that you achieve the proper
match for the key.

Ideally, when you insert the key, all the pins will be flush with the
cylinder's body.  If you file the pins down to make the key work, you will
make it easier for someone to pick the lock because you are effectively
removing that filed pin from the mechanism.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Darrell Walker
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2010 3:27 PM
To: James Henningsen
Cc: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Lock Question


Hi Jim,

One thing you can do it to remove the cylinder, insert the key you want to
use with the lock, and then file down the pins so that the key will work in
that lock.  That also makes it such that other keys besides the new key and
the original key would operate the lock, but since most folks won't even
have keys that fit, I don't think it is opening up too big of a security
risk.

-Darrell



From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Dec 27 16:14:23 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 16:14:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Free: TR7 5-speed transmission
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikY4VuokyhDjjk4sjpu9zSMyFZNxBW8mnw64zQM@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikY4VuokyhDjjk4sjpu9zSMyFZNxBW8mnw64zQM@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <56213581ED624BB6A06327413739ACE5@Vista>

I find myself wondering if it can be converted to work with a Spitfire.
Since the single rail gearboxes from the later Spits are similar in a number
of respects to the TR7 gearboxes, it might be possible.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2010 3:43 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Free: TR7 5-speed transmission

I have a TR7 5-speed transmission that is available free if you can
make arrangements to pick it up in Richmond Kentucky.  If no one
claims it I don't have any choice but to send it to the scrap yard.

Anyone?

Brad
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 27 16:15:30 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 15:15:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Registry
In-Reply-To: <E1PXLTU-0004fH-VU@davesource.com>
References: <688A9C16C9CB42B08389D5A65382E6F6@ranteer.local>
	<E1PXLTU-0004fH-VU@davesource.com>
Message-ID: <770521.51666.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

silly me
takes a few mins to load
oops
frank




________________________________
From: David Ljung Madison <team.net at daveola.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, December 27, 2010 2:21:43 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Registry

> I was inspired by the TR2 Registry being put together under the 
> auspices of the VTR.
> 
> I would be happy to do this for TR3?s, if there is an interest.

Before you reinvent the wheel, check out:

http://www.trregistry.com/

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison? ? ? ? ? http://GetDave.com/? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? 415.341.5555
-------------------- Self Help Wanted - Inquire Within --------------------
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From brad.kahler at 141.com  Mon Dec 27 16:15:43 2010
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 18:15:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Free: TR7 5-speed transmission
In-Reply-To: <56213581ED624BB6A06327413739ACE5@Vista>
References: <AANLkTikY4VuokyhDjjk4sjpu9zSMyFZNxBW8mnw64zQM@mail.gmail.com>
	<56213581ED624BB6A06327413739ACE5@Vista>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim6KVFJe+G2S3QUZWEgbyyjfRZhTbw=750=yZ8t@mail.gmail.com>

There is no comparison between the TR7 4-speed and the 5-speed.  The
5-speed weighs almost twice as much and is physically totally
different.



On Mon, Dec 27, 2010 at 6:14 PM, Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:
> I find myself wondering if it can be converted to work with a Spitfire.
> Since the single rail gearboxes from the later Spits are similar in a number
> of respects to the TR7 gearboxes, it might be possible.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
> Sent: Monday, December 27, 2010 3:43 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] Free: TR7 5-speed transmission
>
> I have a TR7 5-speed transmission that is available free if you can
> make arrangements to pick it up in Richmond Kentucky. ?If no one
> claims it I don't have any choice but to send it to the scrap yard.
>
> Anyone?
>
> Brad
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation ?$11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
>
>

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Dec 27 17:08:55 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 17:08:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Free: TR7 5-speed transmission
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim6KVFJe+G2S3QUZWEgbyyjfRZhTbw=750=yZ8t@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikY4VuokyhDjjk4sjpu9zSMyFZNxBW8mnw64zQM@mail.gmail.com><56213581ED624BB6A06327413739ACE5@Vista>
	<AANLkTim6KVFJe+G2S3QUZWEgbyyjfRZhTbw=750=yZ8t@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <043C755354ED4DB48141AA9C4218C998@Vista>

Bummer!  :(

-----Original Message-----
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com [mailto:bkahler1 at gmail.com] On Behalf Of Brad
Kahler
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2010 4:16 PM
To: Joe Curry
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Free: TR7 5-speed transmission

There is no comparison between the TR7 4-speed and the 5-speed.  The
5-speed weighs almost twice as much and is physically totally
different.



On Mon, Dec 27, 2010 at 6:14 PM, Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:
> I find myself wondering if it can be converted to work with a Spitfire.
> Since the single rail gearboxes from the later Spits are similar in a
number
> of respects to the TR7 gearboxes, it might be possible.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
> Sent: Monday, December 27, 2010 3:43 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] Free: TR7 5-speed transmission
>
> I have a TR7 5-speed transmission that is available free if you can
> make arrangements to pick it up in Richmond Kentucky. ?If no one
> claims it I don't have any choice but to send it to the scrap yard.
>
> Anyone?
>
> Brad
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation ?$11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
>
>


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Mon Dec 27 17:42:56 2010
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 19:42:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Lock Question
In-Reply-To: <20E3B47BED3D4E8D990297C717D4FB40@TRGUY>
References: <20E3B47BED3D4E8D990297C717D4FB40@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <4D193290.5040106@blacksburg.net>

On 12/27/2010 4:09 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
> I don't know if anyone keeps these around or not, but I am looking for a glove box "cubby" lock to match the trunk lid.  I have an FP 669 glove box lock and need an FP 695.  The car originally came with 695 and I would like to keep it that way if possible. Many thanks to everyone for all the answers to my questions and parts requests!  The project is going well.
> Jim Henningsen
>    
Jim, I had my local locksmith rekey all my locks to the same key.  $25 
later, the ignition, doors, boot lock and cubby all lock w/the same 
key.  He even had the correct key blanks!  Have you tried that approach?

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go



From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Dec 27 22:05:07 2010
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 21:05:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Plate
Message-ID: <691471.28469.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     My TR3A front plate was leaking pretty bad and I am taking the Christmas break to straighten it out. I originally blamed the bottom bolts backing out (which they had), but when I got into the engine I found that the front main bearing block was sitting about 30 thousandths proud of the front of the block. The bearing block was still torqued tight and I doubt that I let it slip by when I rebuilt the engine about 8 years ago. Could something have made the block migrate forward over the last 80,000 miles? 
     TIA,
  
     Bill in Tehachapi

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Dec 28 04:36:34 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 11:36:34 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] It's not goodbye, just farewell...
In-Reply-To: <1708356084.353342.1293469168328.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1708356084.353342.1293469168328.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1869.33023.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Phil Ethier wrote:
uncle jack didn't make it out to any of the major Triumph gatherings in 2010, 
but it will be going back to Fargo for the Rendezvous in June, and to the VTR 
convention in Colorado in August.

If I may say so, Phil, 'uncle jack' needs to be seen by the wider Triumph 
community across the whole of North America who missed out on the opportunity of 
seeing him as he made his epic journey in 2009. It's time for you to retire, 
good buddy, and get that car back to doing what he does best - and that's 
driving long distances, continually :)

Jonmac


      

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Dec 28 08:35:11 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 10:35:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Plate
In-Reply-To: <691471.28469.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <691471.28469.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4D1A03AF.90209@charter.net>

On 12/28/2010 12:05 AM, William Brewer wrote:
> Could something have made the block migrate forward over the last 80,000 miles?
Sounds like your brakes work too well.  Try not stopping so quickly. <g>

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Dec 28 08:44:00 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 10:44:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test 1 - Apologies to the list
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAFg+WhSi0YNCh59MlRxlR+EBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

I just changed software and I am testing it.  No need for any responses -
there may be as many as three messages (checking formats)

Sent as HTML

 

 


From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Dec 28 09:20:16 2010
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 16:20:16 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] The Triumph Christmas Sleigh
Message-ID: <236333.67377.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

I guess its about 12 years I've been receiving daily list messages and always at 
this time of year, there's been an interesting miscellany of posts on the things 
that Santa had on his sleigh for those who are still up to their elbows in muck 
and filth and in the midst of a rebuild. 

This year, to date, no posts of that sort at all. 
This leaves me to believe that probably no-one is now in rebuild mode and all 
the remaining cars are in fine fettle - which oddly I feel is hard to believe.
Did anyone actually receive a new set of main bearing shells, a new Lucas 
alternator and other such?- or did Santa's sleigh transporting them suffer a 
massive oil leak and resulting break down just after leaving the North Pole?
An enquiring mind would like to know.

Jonmac


      

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Dec 28 09:42:59 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 10:42:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] The Triumph Christmas Sleigh
In-Reply-To: <236333.67377.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <236333.67377.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C9A9C3DF-AAEF-4663-A536-7EE1DD45AC72@flash.net>

Got a new cover for a completed restoration.  This winter is reserved for minor maintenance that includes a starter rebuild. 

Bill
TS 30766 L

Sent from mobile Bill

On Dec 28, 2010, at 10:20 AM, John Macartney <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> I guess its about 12 years I've been receiving daily list messages and always at 
> this time of year, there's been an interesting miscellany of posts on the things 
> that Santa had on his sleigh for those who are still up to their elbows in muck 
> and filth and in the midst of a rebuild. 
> 
> This year, to date, no posts of that sort at all. 
> This leaves me to believe that probably no-one is now in rebuild mode and all 
> the remaining cars are in fine fettle - which oddly I feel is hard to believe.
> Did anyone actually receive a new set of main bearing shells, a new Lucas 
> alternator and other such - or did Santa's sleigh transporting them suffer a 
> massive oil leak and resulting break down just after leaving the North Pole?
> An enquiring mind would like to know.
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 

From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Dec 28 09:50:01 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 11:50:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] The Triumph Christmas Sleigh
In-Reply-To: <C9A9C3DF-AAEF-4663-A536-7EE1DD45AC72@flash.net>
References: <236333.67377.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<C9A9C3DF-AAEF-4663-A536-7EE1DD45AC72@flash.net>
Message-ID: <8CD74C666C0A8B8-960-496CD@webmail-d069.sysops.aol.com>

There was an "early Christmas" present of rear brake shoes for the 
Herald. Also (assuming I can eventually shovel myself a driveway and a 
path to the mailbox), there is a speedometer cable on its way. That's 
about the extent of my personal holiday automotive excitement 
(especially since my music major son wanted a very expensive trombone 
for Christmas)!

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

On Dec 28, 2010, at 10:20 AM, John Macartney 
<macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> ...there's been an interesting miscellany of posts on the things
> that Santa had on his sleigh for those who are still up to their 
elbows in muck
> and filth and in the midst of a rebuild. ...

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 28 10:19:02 2010
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 17:19:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] sabatical
Message-ID: <BLU162-w4398040C6BDF88972BCD4CE5010@phx.gbl>


Dear list,

After years of reading and contributing when possible to this list I am going to take a break.  I had a stroke two weeks ago and I need the available time and energy for self care.   You folks have been a real asset in my life the last ten years or more.  Thank you ladies and gentlemen.

Best regards,

Tom

 		 	   		  

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Dec 28 10:22:35 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 12:22:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] The Triumph Christmas Sleigh
In-Reply-To: <236333.67377.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <236333.67377.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAACZV+0oqFb9JlEhnQiNNEloBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

The sleigh included twelve certificates for 'time' to spend on the project
each month- 40 hours  a month.   I have already negotiated that I can
combine two certificates in one month :O)

Also a generous GC for The Roadster Factory - I haven?t decided whether it
will be one biggie or a bunch of little needed parts.   I am leaning toward
the biggie as I can always find a few dollars for the small stuff.   I do
need to renew my TRF club membership which will result in another $100 GC
plus $25/month.   



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 11:20 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] The Triumph Christmas Sleigh

I guess its about 12 years I've been receiving daily list messages and
always at this time of year, there's been an interesting miscellany of posts
on the things that Santa had on his sleigh for those who are still up to
their elbows in muck and filth and in the midst of a rebuild. 

This year, to date, no posts of that sort at all. 
This leaves me to believe that probably no-one is now in rebuild mode and
all the remaining cars are in fine fettle - which oddly I feel is hard to
believe.
Did anyone actually receive a new set of main bearing shells, a new Lucas
alternator and other such?- or did Santa's sleigh transporting them suffer a
massive oil leak and resulting break down just after leaving the North Pole?
An enquiring mind would like to know.

Jonmac


      
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Dec 28 10:47:00 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 10:47:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] The Triumph Christmas Sleigh
In-Reply-To: <236333.67377.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <236333.67377.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4D1A2294.50503@gmail.com>

On 12/28/10 9:20 AM, John Macartney wrote:
> I guess its about 12 years I've been receiving daily list messages and always at
> this time of year, there's been an interesting miscellany of posts on the things
> that Santa had on his sleigh for those who are still up to their elbows in muck
> and filth and in the midst of a rebuild.
>    
Well, I'm not doing a rebuild but my TR3 got the lion's share of 
Christmas presents.

The hard top is at the body shop getting some deep scratches removed and 
new paint.  When it comes home the top will get all new rubber seals. 
The boot lid is down there too getting a rust problem taken care of and 
new paint.  The 3 just got three new gauges installed and just before I 
left home to spend Christmas with my sister a new Holley fuel pressure 
regulator, a new fuel pressure gauge and a new electric fan control unit 
arrived.

Alas, all my poor 1960 Land Rover got this year was to drive from 
Flagstaff to Texas. But she got a whole lot of presents last year.

Teriann

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Dec 28 11:02:59 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 18:02:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] The Triumph Christmas Sleigh
In-Reply-To: <4D1A2294.50503@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1842075353.401125.1293559379631.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Now that you have moveed to Flagstaff, do you have a (dare I say it?) garage?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Dec 28 11:06:26 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 18:06:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] sabatical
In-Reply-To: <BLU162-w4398040C6BDF88972BCD4CE5010@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <650366384.401322.1293559586556.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
> After years of reading and contributing when possible to this list I
> am going to take a break.  I had a stroke two weeks ago and I need the
> available time and energy for self care.   You folks have been a real
> asset in my life the last ten years or more.  Thank you ladies and
> gentlemen.

I'm sorry for your trouble.  I hope your physician is predicting a full recovery.

Phil

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Dec 28 11:45:00 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 18:45:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] sabatical
In-Reply-To: <BLU162-w4398040C6BDF88972BCD4CE5010@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <180429327.404941.1293561900179.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>After years of reading and contributing when possible to this list I am going to take a break.  I had a stroke two weeks ago and I need the available >time and energy for self care.   You folks have been a real asset in my life the last ten years or more.  Thank you ladies and gentlemen.

>Best regards,

>Tom

Stay strong and get well, Tom.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS58667
New Hamsphire

 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 28 11:56:12 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 13:56:12 EST
Subject: [TR] sabatical
Message-ID: <24305.6ae2fc6.3a4b8ccc@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/28/2010 11:31:43 AM Central Standard Time, 
tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: 
> After years of reading and contributing when possible to this list I am 
> going to take a break.  I had a stroke two weeks ago and I need the 
> available time and energy for self care.   You folks have been a real asset in my 
> life the last ten years or more.  Thank you ladies and gentlemen.
> 
I'm sure I'm speaking for everyone here when I hope you have a speedy 
recovery and remember that you are welcome to come back when you feel it is 
appropriate.  

Take care.

Dave

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Tue Dec 28 12:06:28 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 14:06:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] The Triumph Christmas Sleigh
Message-ID: <E0E8DD6469A544AB9189E189AC80E30A@TRGUY>

Santa got me a TR4 owner's manual reprint and time to work on my 62 TR4 rebuild.  I am doing a frame on restoration and have the car pretty much stripped including all the interior and dash. Thanks to a fellow CFTR club member, we are taking out the engine and tranny in order to go through and check out the condition.  It has great compression, but might as well check it while it is out. The car goes in for new paint inside and out in January.  Thanks to many on the list for helping me find some original parts that I needed, including a complete aluminum surrey hardtop.  
Jim Henningsen  
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Dec 28 12:30:16 2010
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 14:30:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] The Triumph Christmas Sleigh
In-Reply-To: <E0E8DD6469A544AB9189E189AC80E30A@TRGUY>
References: <E0E8DD6469A544AB9189E189AC80E30A@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikMLQp2hGMUmAtUFqUqXdJuQiBj5Pi3LFZpK0PS@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like I have a pretty good haul for the TR2 and TR4 this year.

AC window unit for the shop (craigslist had a great deal)
upper and lower gasket sets
new hose set
new oil pump
new 5 vane water pump
new timing gears, chain, and tensioner
plugs for the block
cam bearings
connecting rod bushings
upper ball joints
poly bushing set
TR4 hoodie from my pal in the UK
and a partridge in a pear tree.

The engine rebuild parts list is getting smaller!

From adcronin at mi.rr.com  Tue Dec 28 14:29:08 2010
From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 16:29:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear wheel studs, TR2--4a
Message-ID: <C3A63C67-1EBB-43A0-8CCB-E7307F843CE1@mi.rr.com>

I have installed RATCO (nfi) rear tube shock conversion brackets on my "resto-mod" TR2 project car and am using Vredestein Sprint Classic 185/70R15 tires on Panasport 5.5 x 15" rims.  In order to get appro. 1/4"-3/8" clearance between the tire sidewall and the edge of the tube shock vertical arm, I need to use appro. 3/8" spacers against the rear disk (Revington rear disk brake conversion kit) and between the rim.  The standard length rear wheel studs (threaded into hubs on side-screen cars and live axle TR4-A's) only permit about 4 to 5 turns of the stud nut.  For 7/16" diameter studs, 8.5 turns are the minimum and I would like to get up to around 10-12 turns.  

I purchased 1/2" longer than standard studs from Cambridge a short time back after inquiring if they would work in early TR's.  When they arrived I discovered they were knurled (appro. .519" diameter) and not threaded.  I suppose I could once again remove the axle half shafts/hubs and have the stud holes drilled out to just under the .519" and then have the knurled studs pressed in, but am wondering if anyone has encountered this de-lima and how you went about resolving it.  Am also wondering why the early cars had threaded rear studs and the TR5-7 went to knurled.....

Thanks to all who may have helpful suggestions/solutions/ideas, and no, I am not interested in going back to 55 year old setup.   I dealt with that with this very same TR2 in the mid 60's!
Dan



From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 28 14:58:28 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 13:58:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] Rear wheel studs, TR2--4a
In-Reply-To: <C3A63C67-1EBB-43A0-8CCB-E7307F843CE1@mi.rr.com>
References: <C3A63C67-1EBB-43A0-8CCB-E7307F843CE1@mi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <08b501cba6da$5c6cb2e0$0301a8c0@randall>

There used to be studs available from Moroso that would work (threaded 7/16
NF for the entire length, so they could be screwed in from the back), but
they appear to be NLS.  I believe that leaves knurled studs as your only
option.

The change to knurled studs happened with the IRS; TR4A-IRS had knurled
while non-IRS 4A had the old screw-in studs.  The knurled type seem clearly
superior to me, I only wonder why it took them so long to change.

I must admit, I'm surprised that you are doing so much in that area, but
keeping the stock hubs.  Maybe Tony can explain why, or provide a link to
the video.

-- Randall  


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 28 15:07:19 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 14:07:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Lock Question
In-Reply-To: <7C1F8573C97741BC8ABBCA54C99D6FE4@Vista>
References: <20E3B47BED3D4E8D990297C717D4FB40@TRGUY><A85BF3D1-2CC8-4460-87D2-39392EA117A0@ipns.com>
	<7C1F8573C97741BC8ABBCA54C99D6FE4@Vista>
Message-ID: <08b601cba6db$98c1fdd0$0301a8c0@randall>

> If you file the pins down to make the key 
> work, you will
> make it easier for someone to pick the lock because you are 
> effectively
> removing that filed pin from the mechanism.

That is true; but these locks are so easy to pick that it doesn't make much
difference.  Anyone that even waves a lock pick in the general direction is
going to have it open.  Locks only keep honest people honest, they won't
even slow down a determined thief.

-- Randall  


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 28 15:24:00 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 14:24:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] U-joints - which ones & how to prep
In-Reply-To: <20101227195917.DSGI0.84315.root@hrndva-web10-z02>
References: <20101227195917.DSGI0.84315.root@hrndva-web10-z02>
Message-ID: <08b701cba6dd$ed3de1b0$0301a8c0@randall>

I would insist on joints that have the proper extended grease zerk.  They'll
last at least $3 longer, especially if you ever drive through a puddle.
There used to be other brands available with at least the tapped hole for
the zerk (so you could move the zerk over from the old joint), but I don't
recall who or where.  The Goodparts joints are certainly high quality, but
are likely overkill for a driveshaft.  I've never broken a Hardy-Spicer.

To my mind, white lithium is a light-duty general purpose grease, suitable
for many things but not wheel bearings or U-joints.  But I've never seen it
packaged as "wheel bearing grease" so maybe that doesn't apply to the stuff
you use.

-- Randall  


From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Dec 28 16:13:19 2010
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 16:13:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Lock Question
In-Reply-To: <08b601cba6db$98c1fdd0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <20E3B47BED3D4E8D990297C717D4FB40@TRGUY><A85BF3D1-2CC8-4460-87D2-39392EA117A0@ipns.com><7C1F8573C97741BC8ABBCA54C99D6FE4@Vista>
	<08b601cba6db$98c1fdd0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <A629A751090B4F83BE70A94DB3E9623D@Vista>

If that is the case, why then mess with the lock at all?  Just put a switch
in there and be done with it.

But if indeed they are easy to pick to begin with, why make it even easier
to do so?

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 3:07 PM
Cc: 'list Triumph'
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Lock Question

> If you file the pins down to make the key 
> work, you will
> make it easier for someone to pick the lock because you are 
> effectively
> removing that filed pin from the mechanism.

That is true; but these locks are so easy to pick that it doesn't make much
difference.  Anyone that even waves a lock pick in the general direction is
going to have it open.  Locks only keep honest people honest, they won't
even slow down a determined thief.

-- Randall  

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 28 16:27:42 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 18:27:42 EST
Subject: [TR] TR4 Lock Question
Message-ID: <cc27.261bb742.3a4bcc6e@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/28/2010 5:12:21 PM Central Standard Time, 
spitlist at cox.net writes: 
> If that is the case, why then mess with the lock at all?  Just put a 
> switch
> in there and be done with it.
> 
> But if indeed they are easy to pick to begin with, why make it even easier
> to do so?
> 

That's an idea.  Leave the ignition switch in place but move the wires to 
an unmarked toggle switch elsewhere in the dash.  That will probably slow 
them down more than having a key switch.  They will probably resort to 
hot-wiring the ignition but only if they are that determined.

Dave

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Dec 28 18:47:07 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 18:47:07 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4_Lock_Question?=
Message-ID: <20101229014707.B3B9E187657@autox.team.net>

Trunk monkey!!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Date: Tue, Dec 28, 2010 5:27 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 Lock Question
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

In a message dated 12/28/2010 5:12:21 PM Central Standard Time, 
spitlist at cox.net writes: 
> If that is the case, why then mess with the lock at all?  Just put a 
> switch
> in there and be done with it.
> 
> But if indeed they are easy to pick to begin with, why make it even easier
> to do so?
> 

That's an idea.  Leave the ignition switch in place but move the wires to 
an unmarked toggle switch elsewhere in the dash.  That will probably slow 
them down more than having a key switch.  They will probably resort to 
hot-wiring the ignition but only if they are that determined.

Dave
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net


From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Dec 28 19:16:29 2010
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 19:16:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] The Triumph Christmas Sleigh
In-Reply-To: <1842075353.401125.1293559379631.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1842075353.401125.1293559379631.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4D1A99FD.7030704@gmail.com>

On 12/28/10 11:02 AM, pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> Now that you have moveed to Flagstaff, do you have a (dare I say it?) garage?
>    

Yep!  Just like the big kids.  Only problem is the door isn't tall 
enough to fit the Land Rover too.  But the TR is snug like a bug in a rug

Teriann


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 28 20:35:05 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 19:35:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Lock Question
In-Reply-To: <cc27.261bb742.3a4bcc6e@cs.com>
References: <cc27.261bb742.3a4bcc6e@cs.com>
Message-ID: <090a01cba709$6277be30$0301a8c0@randall>

> That's an idea.  Leave the ignition switch in place but move 
> the wires to 
> an unmarked toggle switch elsewhere in the dash. 

Or even take over one of the existing switches.  I drove for several months
with a clip lead between the ignition switch & headlight switch; turning on
the tail lights would also turn on the ignition.

But eventually it became clear I was never going to find the lost key, so I
picked the lock to get it apart, and cut a key to match.

-- Randall  


From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Dec 28 20:50:12 2010
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 03:50:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] U-joints - which ones & how to prep
In-Reply-To: <08b701cba6dd$ed3de1b0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <2073451202.426448.1293594612229.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
> I would insist on joints that have the proper extended grease zerk. 

There is a Hardy-Spicer joint that has no zerk or drilling therefor.  They are much stronger and are thus preferred by Europa owners who have a lot reason to want the strongest, since the U-joints are part of the suspension on these cars.  I have been told these are the same as NASCAR teams use.

When installing, you must pack each joint with wheel-bearing grease.  The oil on joints as received is only for storage and shipping.



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org
http://www.mnautox.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 28 21:18:21 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 20:18:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] U-joints - which ones & how to prep
In-Reply-To: <2073451202.426448.1293594612229.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <08b701cba6dd$ed3de1b0$0301a8c0@randall>
	<2073451202.426448.1293594612229.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <091701cba70f$6db86460$0301a8c0@randall>

> They are much stronger and are thus preferred by 
> Europa owners who have a lot reason to want the strongest, 
> since the U-joints are part of the suspension on these cars.

That likely means they are also after the differential and hence the stress
is greatly increased (roughly 4 times!).  Most likely, they also work around
sharper corners than a TR driveshaft does, which also increases the stress.

But I've never seen a TR2-4 with a broken driveshaft U-joint, so I can't see
that extra strength is any benefit in that application.

And frankly, even the few driveshaft U-joints I have managed to break
(behind big American V8's) broke at the trunnion rather than through the
grease fitting.

-- Randall  


From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 28 21:19:06 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 20:19:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] triumph christmas
Message-ID: <288734.5654.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I'm in the middle of a tr-3 rebuild mainly noticing the bank account.LOL  Deep 
into liners, bearings and body work.  It's been one of the most challenging 
things I've ever done and also one of the most rewarding.......when things go 
right.LOL  Whats been frustrating is I've ordered standard stuff ahead of time 
assuming............only to find later that I need other than standard so I end 
up wasting time waiting on parts/exchanges ect.  


I should add that with out the list.........this would be impossible for me.
another big thanks to the list!

gary n.



      

From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Dec 28 21:28:28 2010
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 22:28:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rear wheel studs, TR2--4a
In-Reply-To: <08b501cba6da$5c6cb2e0$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <C3A63C67-1EBB-43A0-8CCB-E7307F843CE1@mi.rr.com>
	<08b501cba6da$5c6cb2e0$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <20101229042812.99951187657@autox.team.net>

Here's stock design rear hubs and axles in action in racing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PX82xKLZ2JE
over 30,000 views so far - by far my most popular racing video, 
although I wasn't very happy at the time.  These were better than new 
steel, all stress risers removed, but still of original design.  It's 
the design (the tapered axle specifically) that the problem.

For street use the stock axles and hubs should be fine, though.

- Tony

At 03:58 PM 12/28/2010, Randall wrote:
>There used to be studs available from Moroso that would work (threaded 7/16
>NF for the entire length, so they could be screwed in from the back), but
>they appear to be NLS.  I believe that leaves knurled studs as your only
>option.
>
>The change to knurled studs happened with the IRS; TR4A-IRS had knurled
>while non-IRS 4A had the old screw-in studs.  The knurled type seem clearly
>superior to me, I only wonder why it took them so long to change.
>
>I must admit, I'm surprised that you are doing so much in that area, but
>keeping the stock hubs.  Maybe Tony can explain why, or provide a link to
>the video.
>
>-- Randall
>
>_______________________________________________
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Manage your account: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com



From jwalker at mainet.com  Tue Dec 28 23:59:39 2010
From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 01:59:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 563
Message-ID: <4D1A960B020000EF00008354@smtp.mainet.com>

I am assembling the behind the dash stuff for my TR-3B, and seem to have misplaced one of the steel dash breaces that run from the rear of the battery box to the bottom of the dash. If anyone on the list has a spare you can part with, I would be happy to help you de-clutter. Please contact me off-list at "jwalker126 at sbcglobal.net"  if you can help.

Many thanks in advance, 

John Walker
TS68368
Reno, NV


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Dec 29 06:11:10 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 08:11:10 EST
Subject: [TR] TR4 Lock Question
Message-ID: <3ec4a.52a3376a.3a4c8d6e@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/28/2010 7:47:30 PM Central Standard Time, 
spook01 at comcast.net writes: 
> Trunk monkey!!
> 
With our cars it would have to be a spider monkey.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Dec 29 06:25:34 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 08:25:34 EST
Subject: [TR] U-joints - which ones & how to prep
Message-ID: <3f7cb.d22a936.3a4c90ce@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/28/2010 9:58:13 PM Central Standard Time, 
pethier at comcast.net writes: 
> There is a Hardy-Spicer joint that has no zerk or drilling therefor.  
> They are much stronger and are thus preferred by Europa owners who have a lot 
> reason to want the strongest, since the U-joints are part of the suspension 
> on these cars.  I have been told these are the same as NASCAR teams use.
> 
These are people who have no qualms about changing U-joints every season or 
even more frequently.  There are always trade-offs.

Dave

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Wed Dec 29 06:59:07 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 08:59:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] U-joints - which ones & how to prep
In-Reply-To: <20101227195917.DSGI0.84315.root@hrndva-web10-z02>
References: <20101227195917.DSGI0.84315.root@hrndva-web10-z02>
Message-ID: <4D1B3EAB.2070204@bright.net>

Johnnie, we supply u-joints with grease fittings in the end of the 
cap.This makes a stronger joint than the style with the zerk in the 
middle- no extra hole drilled in the u-joint cross.And, very easy to 
grease. No need for longer zerk fittings that can break off or lubing 
the part then having to insert a plug. $21.95 each for TR3 - TR6 and 
$14.95 for Spit/GT6/MG  - Made in USA as a major bonus. Ted


On 12/27/2010 2:59 PM, pdonnel1 at san.rr.com wrote:
> I need to replace the two u-joints in the drive shaft of my 4A. Couple of questions:
>
> 1. There's 3 on the market. A cheapo aftermarket version for about $15, the Hardy-Spicer at $18, and Goodparts has a beefier version at $28. As far as I can tell the cheapo version doesn't have a grease fitting. Recommendations as to which one?
> 2. On the ones I've replaced in the past I've put in white Lithium wheel grease. Is there a better grease? Or,just leave them alone?
>
> Johnnie
> '67 TR4A
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx at bright.net
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From boggiano at charter.net  Wed Dec 29 07:00:52 2010
From: boggiano at charter.net (Tom Boggiano)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 09:00:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 carpet install
Message-ID: <E7C8C41C0F8B4A4DA93D2C0E77808F80@CR.LOCAL>

Hi List



I am about to start the install of a new carpet set in my TR4. Can someone point me at instructions on how they installed a carpet set in a TR4? 

I am also looking for recommendations on what to use for an underlayment.



I appreciate the help 

Thanks

Tom

 

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Dec 29 15:56:37 2010
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 17:56:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR tags
References: <1376578500.211050.1293052184923.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A204D0A0EFD54842B3044127F48C9AC2@DCH6RFC1>

I am wondering if anyone on the list can help me get new tags.  Several
years ago a guy called Frank who was at TRtags at comcast.net helped me out,
but the e-address is no longer viable.

Anyone know Frank or how I can get in touch with him?

Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard


From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Wed Dec 29 16:12:43 2010
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 18:12:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR tags
In-Reply-To: <A204D0A0EFD54842B3044127F48C9AC2@DCH6RFC1>
References: <1376578500.211050.1293052184923.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<A204D0A0EFD54842B3044127F48C9AC2@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <00e001cba7ad$e64d0860$b2e71920$@verizon.net>

Andrew,

I have forwarded your message on to Frank.

Thanks
Ian
62 TR4
70 E-Type Jaguar OTS


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 5:57 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR tags

I am wondering if anyone on the list can help me get new tags.  Several
years ago a guy called Frank who was at TRtags at comcast.net helped me out,
but the e-address is no longer viable.

Anyone know Frank or how I can get in touch with him?

Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lbc.resto at verizon.net


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Dec 29 17:30:00 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 18:30:00 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR tags
Message-ID: <27561131.1585166.1293669000303.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

If you mean the body tags - they are available through The Roadster Factory as well.


Dec 29, 2010 11:13:18 PM, lbc.resto at verizon.net wrote:

Andrew,

I have forwarded your message on to Frank.

Thanks
Ian
62 TR4
70 E-Type Jaguar OTS


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 5:57 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR tags

I am wondering if anyone on the list can help me get new tags. Several
years ago a guy called Frank who was at TRtags at comcast.net helped me out,
but the e-address is no longer viable.

Anyone know Frank or how I can get in touch with him?

Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lbc.resto at verizon.net

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From elliottr at rmi.net  Wed Dec 29 17:42:30 2010
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 18:42:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre HMCC7001 & Windows7
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi==kp1uvs_5c2Tm2yteSbCLZ_x6S3bpSswvZ=MO@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3269774.1337143.1293220201274.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
	<AANLkTi==kp1uvs_5c2Tm2yteSbCLZ_x6S3bpSswvZ=MO@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4D1BD576.8000705@rmi.net>


You had better luck than I did.  I tried it on 2 VMs and it would not 
work on either.  It was like the CD drive was not recognized by the part 
of the program that requires the CD to be in the drive.

I have noticed Rimmer Brothers sells a newer version that is supposed to 
be compatible with Windows 7 and Vista.

Roger Elliott

On 12/24/2010 3:58 PM, Michael Burdick wrote:
> That is a good solution Carl.  For those without a spare computer to
> dedicate to the shop, you can run the software in an XP virtual machine in
> VMware on both Windows 7 and Ubuntu (haven't tried Vista).  A funny thing I
> noticed is that the Heritage software gave me a message at startup saying it
> wouldn't run in a virtual machine, but it proceeded to run just fine.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Mike Burdick
>

From dwillner at ptd.net  Wed Dec 29 17:54:27 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 19:54:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 windscreen frames
Message-ID: <4C3A277FD79445B699B16C6D0133DDA5@valued9cfc0b6f>

Does anyone know if there any suppliers that sell the basic TR3 chrome or aluminum windscreen frames with or without the glass?  Thanks 

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Dec 29 18:08:36 2010
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 20:08:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre HMCC7001 & Windows7
In-Reply-To: <4D1BD576.8000705@rmi.net>
References: <3269774.1337143.1293220201274.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
	<AANLkTi==kp1uvs_5c2Tm2yteSbCLZ_x6S3bpSswvZ=MO@mail.gmail.com>
	<4D1BD576.8000705@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAJmsNHaZYRlFgsxMgBkXq4ABAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

I am skeptical - has anyone confirmed that with Rimmers?   

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 7:43 PM
To: Michael Burdick
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre HMCC7001 & Windows7


You had better luck than I did.  I tried it on 2 VMs and it would not work
on either.  It was like the CD drive was not recognized by the part of the
program that requires the CD to be in the drive.

I have noticed Rimmer Brothers sells a newer version that is supposed to be
compatible with Windows 7 and Vista.

Roger Elliott

On 12/24/2010 3:58 PM, Michael Burdick wrote:
> That is a good solution Carl.  For those without a spare computer to 
> dedicate to the shop, you can run the software in an XP virtual 
> machine in VMware on both Windows 7 and Ubuntu (haven't tried Vista).  
> A funny thing I noticed is that the Heritage software gave me a 
> message at startup saying it wouldn't run in a virtual machine, but it
proceeded to run just fine.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Mike Burdick
>
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Dec 29 16:39:03 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 17:39:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR tags
In-Reply-To: <00e001cba7ad$e64d0860$b2e71920$@verizon.net>
References: <1376578500.211050.1293052184923.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<A204D0A0EFD54842B3044127F48C9AC2@DCH6RFC1>
	<00e001cba7ad$e64d0860$b2e71920$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4DACA373-A5FD-4A53-83B1-1AF7401A3F4E@flash.net>

Doesn't TRF sell Frank's tags?  I bought a set from him a few years back, except for the "3" being the US style they are excellent reproductions. 

NFI

Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Dec 29, 2010, at 5:12 PM, "LBC.Resto" <lbc.resto at verizon.net> wrote:

> Andrew,
> 
> I have forwarded your message on to Frank.
> 
> Thanks
> Ian
> 62 TR4
> 70 E-Type Jaguar OTS
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
> Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 5:57 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR tags
> 
> I am wondering if anyone on the list can help me get new tags.  Several
> years ago a guy called Frank who was at TRtags at comcast.net helped me out,
> but the e-address is no longer viable.
> 
> Anyone know Frank or how I can get in touch with him?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lbc.resto at verizon.net
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Dec 30 06:18:34 2010
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 08:18:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR tags
In-Reply-To: <00e001cba7ad$e64d0860$b2e71920$@verizon.net>
References: <1376578500.211050.1293052184923.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<680880469.211290.1293052555769.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<A204D0A0EFD54842B3044127F48C9AC2@DCH6RFC1>
	<00e001cba7ad$e64d0860$b2e71920$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <D59539D707F84E8E854DF171F058CAA6@DCH6RFC1>

Thanks, Ian - and everyone else who replied.
And Happy New Year to Everyone on the list - it's good to be back.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: LBC.Resto [mailto:lbc.resto at verizon.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 6:13 PM
To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR tags

Andrew,

I have forwarded your message on to Frank.

Thanks
Ian
62 TR4
70 E-Type Jaguar OTS


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 5:57 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR tags

I am wondering if anyone on the list can help me get new tags.  Several
years ago a guy called Frank who was at TRtags at comcast.net helped me out,
but the e-address is no longer viable.

Anyone know Frank or how I can get in touch with him?

Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lbc.resto at verizon.net



From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 30 08:16:21 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 07:16:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] test
Message-ID: <821714.40170.qm@web120218.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

sorry to use up your time
my last 2 posts do not appear to have made it through the server. maybe file was 
too large.
frank


      

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Thu Dec 30 09:49:34 2010
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 08:49:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] my commute
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F11CD4DEF@kb1.mossmotors.com>

First off, I know a lot of you are having HORRIBLE weather, and I am
truly concerned for you.

On the other hand, though we in California have had a lot of rain and
some mud slides, today was a GREAT day for the commute.
East bound on the South 101 along the Gaviota coast. Temperature about
41 degrees, strong tail wind.
The rains have made everything green up.
Sun is still below the ocean horizon, but not for long.
No clouds, but real happy with Venus and the last quarter moon.

Why do I drive top down in this cold?
Oh yea, that's why.

Peter - 1971 TR6

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 30 10:03:16 2010
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 09:03:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] my commute
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F11CD4DEF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F11CD4DEF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <911719.17773.qm@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

if i recall Peter, like me your an Englishman. made of stout old viking breeding 
that fears no "cool" weather. 50 degrees was summer in the north west!
laughing
Frank




________________________________
From: "Arakelian, Peter" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, December 30, 2010 8:49:34 AM
Subject: [TR] my commute

First off, I know a lot of you are having HORRIBLE weather, and I am
truly concerned for you.

On the other hand, though we in California have had a lot of rain and
some mud slides, today was a GREAT day for the commute.
East bound on the South 101 along the Gaviota coast. Temperature about
41 degrees, strong tail wind.
The rains have made everything green up.
Sun is still below the ocean horizon, but not for long.
No clouds, but real happy with Venus and the last quarter moon.

Why do I drive top down in this cold?
Oh yea, that's why.

Peter - 1971 TR6
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com


      

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 30 13:25:21 2010
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 12:25:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] my commute
Message-ID: <602097.96322.qm@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Frank wrote::::::::::::
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] my commute
To: "Arakelian, Peter" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>

if i recall Peter, like me your an Englishman. made of stout old viking breeding 
that fears no "cool" weather. 50 degrees was summer in the north west!
laughing
Frank
---------------------------------
Happy Holidays Everyone!
?
I haven't had a computor working from the end of?Oct.(About a week after returning from VTR '10.) so this is my first message to the list as a 2 fold;
1.?A test
2.?A reply to peter & Frank's thread:
?
You guys talk of cold temps. (50^). Well here in Western NYS we are having a HEAT Wave of 30^. So I lowered to hood & took my 4 1/2 yr. grand child out for a quick 50 mile TR (Test Run) to check out the working of the Garage Queen. 
We both came back with smile-lying grinds & rosy red cheeks.

-Cosmo Kramer


      

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Dec 30 14:11:59 2010
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 21:11:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] my commute
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F11CD4DEF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <2017357614.502749.1293743519525.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>


>Why do I drive top down in this cold?

Alas, snow equals salt equals storage, despite near 40 degrees in NH.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667

From L1J1S at aol.com  Thu Dec 30 15:11:51 2010
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 17:11:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] greetings
Message-ID: <28c95.6a571d1f.3a4e5da7@aol.com>

List, want to take a moment to wish all of my fellow Triumph friends a  
happy new year.  larry schwartz

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 30 15:55:47 2010
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 14:55:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] u-joint
Message-ID: <747505.39435.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Since I'm restoring a tr-3 ground up I decided to renew the u-joints.  How in 
the H is one supposed to get the caps off?  The book says drive the cap out 
until it's proud of the surface and then pull out with your fingers.  UH HUH  
lol.  Maybe from a fairly new car but from one with 50 yrs. of rust?  There's no 
way to pull them out..........nothing to grip.

 My joints weren't really that loose or worn out, just old and I thought 
renewing them would be a good thing to do and I had time while waiting on more 
parts to come.  So I just put them back as they were and intend on using them 
until they cause trouble later.

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on getting out rusted caps.  Actually, 
these joints seem pretty tough and I'm wondering if many people have trouble 
with U-joints.

gary n.



      

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Thu Dec 30 15:58:37 2010
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 17:58:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Clutch Clevis update
Message-ID: <F1942E8646FC4871BB43DD6921DED15A@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
Just thought I would follow up with the recent problem I had with the clutch clevis I received. 
The problem was that when the pin is threaded into the clevis, it went off crooked and it appeared that the two holes are not drilled in a line to allow the pin to be perpendicular to the clevis. I was concerned that using the part as supplied would create a binding of the clutch linkage. After contacting the supplier I bought the part from, he said the whole bin full was pretty much the same quality as what I have so I decided to just correct what I have and he gave me a credit for the part. 
After some more careful measurement, the holes are correctly positioned but the threads in the one hole appear to be done at a slight angle, not straight. So, when the pin is threaded into the hole, the pin is angled up and won't completely engage the smaller hole on the other side. Luckily, I had purchased a set of rethreading taps and dies from Sears so I ran a tap thru the threads in the clevis making sure I was going in straight. When I was done, the pin ran in straight and engaged the small hole on the other side perfectly! I am going to call the supplier and let him know what I had to do to correct the part.

One question to you guys is should I put any kind of lubricant on the pin when I assemble it?
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a




From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Dec 30 16:32:14 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 18:32:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] u-joint
In-Reply-To: <747505.39435.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <747505.39435.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201012301832.15858.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday, December 30, 2010 05:55:47 pm Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Since I'm restoring a tr-3 ground up I decided to renew the u-joints.  How
> in the H is one supposed to get the caps off?  The book says drive the cap
> out until it's proud of the surface and then pull out with your fingers. 
> UH HUH lol.  Maybe from a fairly new car but from one with 50 yrs. of
> rust?  There's no way to pull them out..........nothing to grip.
> 
>  My joints weren't really that loose or worn out, just old and I thought
> renewing them would be a good thing to do and I had time while waiting on
> more parts to come.  So I just put them back as they were and intend on
> using them until they cause trouble later.
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on getting out rusted caps. 
> Actually, these joints seem pretty tough and I'm wondering if many people
> have trouble with U-joints.
> 
> gary n.
> 
> 
Gary,

First remove the cir clips and any grung where the bearings fit. Then scrape 
with a sharp knife around the inside until you see bare metal.

Then you have to hit with a BFH the end of the yoke opposite the bearing and 
it will eventually come out enough where you can grab it with a channel lock 
or something. 
Once you get one side out you can just insert an aluminium drift to punch out 
the opposite bearing. There should be some room to get the drift in by pulling 
out the assembly. Follow same procedure with the other bearing sets.

If you remove the front yoke assembly from the mainshaft, remember to scribe 
the shafts so you re-assemble the front yoke assembly to the rear along the 
splined shaft the same. If you dont, you will have problems.

Be very careful when pressing in the new bearings as not to crush the needle 
bearings. It is best to use some sort of a press. I used an arbor press from 
horrible freight.

Bob

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Dec 30 16:39:07 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 15:39:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] Clutch Clevis update
In-Reply-To: <F1942E8646FC4871BB43DD6921DED15A@DaveLaptop>
References: <F1942E8646FC4871BB43DD6921DED15A@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <0c2a01cba87a$c0815910$0301a8c0@randall>

> One question to you guys is should I put any kind of 
> lubricant on the pin when I assemble it?

Not just when you assemble it, but every time you do a chassis service.

-- Randall  


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Dec 30 16:50:35 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 15:50:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] u-joint
In-Reply-To: <747505.39435.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <747505.39435.qm@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0c3101cba87c$5a8c5b30$0301a8c0@randall>

> How in 
> the H is one supposed to get the caps off?

I find that by the time the U-joint cross bottoms against the yoke, it only
takes a tiny bit more to get the cap out.  Easiest for me is to clamp the
protruding cap in my bench vise, and wiggle the yoke a bit to work the cap
out.

Don't forget to remove the grease zerk first (if present).

> Actually, 
> these joints seem pretty tough and I'm wondering if many 
> people have trouble 
> with U-joints.

I have had a few failures over the years, but not many.  Seem to usually be
associated with dirt and corrosion inside the cups, probably caused by not
greasing them often enough (especially after driving in the wet).

Unfortunately, about half the time, the joints fail by locking up, which
forces the caps to rotate in the yokes.  If not caught quickly, the result
is wearing out the yokes.  So part of my periodic maintenance is to check
for shiny spots on the caps (where the circlips touch them).

-- Randall  


From dconnitt at fuse.net  Thu Dec 30 19:00:13 2010
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 21:00:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Clutch parts
Message-ID: <CE6F223F9B3E442495C1239A9618EBA6@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
I am in need of the clutch spring and anchor plate that goes next to the adjusting rod for a TR4A. I will pay a fair price plus shipping if anyone has a spare?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Dec 30 19:15:59 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 18:15:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] Clutch parts
In-Reply-To: <CE6F223F9B3E442495C1239A9618EBA6@DaveLaptop>
References: <CE6F223F9B3E442495C1239A9618EBA6@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <0c5201cba890$aab31090$0301a8c0@randall>

> I am in need of the clutch spring and anchor plate that goes 
> next to the adjusting rod for a TR4A. 

According to the factory parts catalogue, the TR4A did not use a return
spring as the earlier TRs did.  Instead it used the same arrangement as the
later cars, with a spring inside the clutch slave that effectively makes the
clutch self-adjusting (by holding the piston out against the pushrod).

If you do want to convert to the earlier setup, I would suggest buying a new
spring.  They are very stiff and tend to get weak and/or break with age.  I
seem to have to replace mine every 10 years or so (in fact I just ordered
another one a few weeks ago).

FWIW, TRF also has the plate listed as available, P/N 106347 $2.95.

-- Randall  


From lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net  Thu Dec 30 21:32:51 2010
From: lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net (Larry C Griffin)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 23:32:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] my commute
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F11CD4DEF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F11CD4DEF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <44546003B7024B5F85FFBF30A71DEC3C@HomePC>

Peter,

You are an inspiration! This is my first winter since 1977 with a operating 
LBC. Christmas Eve I decided to put the top down to liven up shopping. It 
was in the 40's, but I enjoyed it so much the top is still down. It helps 
that my family gave me a bomber hat for winter driving. It's been one of the 
coldest Decembers ever for NC, but I'm lucky to live in such a good climate 
compared to our northern friends. I have driven the car this week after the 
roads cleared from an 8 1/2" snowfall Sunday. Plan to wash the underside of 
the TR6 to get the salt off this weekend when it hits the 60's. :-)

Larry
71 TR6
68 Spitfire (project for retirement) 


From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Fri Dec 31 06:04:15 2010
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010 08:04:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Early Valve Cover Needed
Message-ID: <89F393FC64C54413A2FF41065EA85917@TRGUY>

Anyone have a decent early TR4 valve cover?  It is the one with the oil cap vent tube at the rear and it does not have the brass plug in the center or any emission tube. According to TRA guidelines, the one with the brass plug is for after commission number CT14xxx or thereabouts.  
Thanks and Happy New Year!  
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri Dec 31 07:44:26 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010 09:44:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Early Valve Cover Needed
Message-ID: <a6705.21c0afc7.3a4f4649@aol.com>

Hey Jim,
Good luck on that one.  Although the TRA guidelines do indeed call for  the 
early TR4 rocker cover as you described, I have rarely seen one and I  
believe the guidelines to be in error.  My 62 TR4 has a brass plug @ CT  5521 LO 
and even my TR3B has the plug @ TCF 2645 L.  I am going to say that  many 
of the early TR4's had the plug. My 63 TR4 CT 13917 L has the brass  plug as 
well.
What say the rest of the early TR4 Listers?
Happy New Year,
Darrell
Curious do you have a short bubble bonnet?
 
 
In a message dated 12/31/2010 8:13:38 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
trguy at cfl.rr.com writes:

Anyone  have a decent early TR4 valve cover?  It is the one with the oil 
cap vent  tube at the rear and it does not have the brass plug in the center 
or any  emission tube. According to TRA guidelines, the one with the brass 
plug is for  after commission number CT14xxx or thereabouts.  
Thanks and Happy New  Year!  
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
62 TR4  CT5212LO


From carlsereda at aol.com  Fri Dec 31 12:37:51 2010
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010 11:37:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR driveshaft U-joints
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1293822002.26593.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8E59F361.E000.46D6.A404.B76E87B5231A@aol.com>

Gary,
Seems the factory balance on the TR drive shafts was pretty good but sometimes a slight and difficult to locate vibration is caused by a slightly off balanced driveshaft. I have changed a dozen u-joints in the past but this time decided to take my cleaned-by-me driveshaft (I had bought a used shaft with better slider joint splines than my 200,000 mile original) to a local 'driveline' shop from Yellow Pages (these guys do hundreds of shafts a month). I provided my own Hardy-Spicer u-joints. The owner of shop welded two washers the size of dime and a nickel in a couple different places to fine tune the balance - then painted all black. The charge; $50.00.?
Good luck with whatever you do.
Carl
'63TR4 since '74
Since I'm restoring a tr-3 ground up I decided to renew the u-joints. How in?
the H is one supposed to get the caps off? The book says drive the cap out?
until it's proud of the surface and then pull out with your fingers. UH HUH?
lol. Maybe from a fairly new car but from one with 50 yrs. of rust? There's no?
way to pull them out..........nothing to grip.

From spamiam at comcast.net  Fri Dec 31 13:51:09 2010
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010 15:51:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] u-joint
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1293822002.26593.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1293822002.26593.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <EBE25F0198A446D6B74FF3932F81C283@I7Quad>

Gary,

They can be a bugger to get apart.  The corrosion prevents the caps from 
moving.  As a previous reply said, clean the corrosion so the cap will 
slide.  The instructions say that gentle tapping is all that is necessary to 
get the caps to move.  Well, it usually takes a BFH.  You need to be aware 
that wailing on the U-joint may well bend the yoke(s) and make the holes for 
the caps no longer perfectly aligned.

I took my drive and half shafts to a truck drive-line service place.  On one 
end of the driveshaft I had gotten the u-joint replaced by myself.  The 
other I could not budge.

The service guy showed me that on the side I had successfully replaced the 
yokes were distorted.  There was considerable resistance to rotation that I 
thought was just normal.  He then "tuned" the yokes by spreading or 
compressing them.  After slight tweaking, the u-join moved MUCH more freely, 
they are pretty much floppy.  Just a vague hint of resistance to motion. 
Also the drive shaft was way way out of balance.  It was all fixed, tuned, 
and balanced for a very reasonable price.

When I did the u-joint replacement, I found that 5 of the 6 in my TR4A were 
shot.  Literally with broken rollers!  None of the caps were spinning, btw. 
Other than the one that was obviously terribly bad, the others were subtle 
or seemed fine.  Just replace all the u-joints if you don't know how old 
they are (or if they are original).

-Tony

-----Original Message----- 
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 14:55:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
Subject: [TR] u-joint
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <747505.39435.qm at web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Since I'm restoring a tr-3 ground up I decided to renew the u-joints.  How 
in
the H is one supposed to get the caps off?  The book says drive the cap out
until it's proud of the surface and then pull out with your fingers.  UH HUH
lol.  Maybe from a fairly new car but from one with 50 yrs. of rust? 
There's no
way to pull them out..........nothing to grip.

My joints weren't really that loose or worn out, just old and I thought
renewing them would be a good thing to do and I had time while waiting on 
more
parts to come.  So I just put them back as they were and intend on using 
them
until they cause trouble later.

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on getting out rusted caps. 
Actually,
these joints seem pretty tough and I'm wondering if many people have trouble
with U-joints.

gary n.


From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 31 14:06:27 2010
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010 16:06:27 EST
Subject: [TR] u-joint
Message-ID: <1dad9.533edfa3.3a4f9fd3@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/31/2010 2:58:23 PM Central Standard Time, 
spamiam at comcast.net writes: 
> They can be a bugger to get apart.  The corrosion prevents the caps from 
> moving.  As a previous reply said, clean the corrosion so the cap will 
> slide.  The instructions say that gentle tapping is all that is necessary 
> to 
> get the caps to move.  Well, it usually takes a BFH.  You need to be aware 
> 
> that wailing on the U-joint may well bend the yoke(s) and make the holes 
> for 
> the caps no longer perfectly aligned.

I prefer to use an hydraulic press.  Failing that a vice will do.  Select a 
couple sockets, one that is slightly smaller than the cap to pressthe T 
through the yoke and  another large enough to accept the other cap  to back up 
the other side of the yoke.

But whether you use a vice or a press, great care must be taken as either 
one can apply enough force to deform or break the yoke.  Use good judgement 
and if things don't move with a reasonable amount of force stop and check out 
the situation.  Things may not be stright or rust or some other unwanted 
substance (like a C-ring) may be causing problems.  

But after the last time I did this and had to take them back apart because 
one of the rollers fell out of place I decided to take my driveshafts to 
experts and have them done.  Saves me the agrivation.

Dave


From trglory at verizon.net  Fri Dec 31 15:22:20 2010
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010 17:22:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Early Valve Cover Needed
In-Reply-To: <a6705.21c0afc7.3a4f4649@aol.com>
References: <a6705.21c0afc7.3a4f4649@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003b01cba939$310f08d0$932d1a70$@net>

What say the TR-4 spare parts catalogue?

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 9:44 AM
To: trguy at cfl.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Early Valve Cover Needed

Hey Jim,
Good luck on that one.  Although the TRA guidelines do indeed call for  the 
early TR4 rocker cover as you described, I have rarely seen one and I  
believe the guidelines to be in error.  My 62 TR4 has a brass plug @ CT
5521 LO 
and even my TR3B has the plug @ TCF 2645 L.  I am going to say that  many 
of the early TR4's had the plug. My 63 TR4 CT 13917 L has the brass  plug as

well.
What say the rest of the early TR4 Listers?
Happy New Year,
Darrell
Curious do you have a short bubble bonnet?
 


From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Fri Dec 31 15:25:40 2010
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010 17:25:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Early Valve Cover Needed
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1293822002.26593.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1293822002.26593.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <52D8134B-EDA9-4571-8BF5-302CACD02A33@mgcarclub.com>

Mine has the brass plug. #13678

On Dec 31, 2010, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Anyone have a decent early TR4 valve cover?  It is the one with the  
> oil cap vent tube at the rear and it does not have the brass plug in  
> the center or any emission tube. According to TRA guidelines, the  
> one with the brass plug is for after commission number CT14xxx or  
> thereabouts.
> Thanks and Happy New Year!
> Jim Henningsen
> Maitland, FL
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 31 16:20:33 2010
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010 15:20:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Early Valve Cover Needed
In-Reply-To: <003b01cba939$310f08d0$932d1a70$@net>
References: <a6705.21c0afc7.3a4f4649@aol.com>
	<003b01cba939$310f08d0$932d1a70$@net>
Message-ID: <0dbd01cba941$53956860$0301a8c0@randall>

> What say the TR-4 spare parts catalogue?

Not much, that I can see.  My reprint of the 2nd edition lists 3 different
covers, but nothing about a brass plug.

Cover assembly 304677 and cap 113569 are listed up to CT14233E only;

then there is a listing for cover 306527 plus cap 138176 "closed circuit
breather" but no range;

then cover 305614 plus cap 113569, plug 129077, adapter 129077 and washer
WF0511 are listed from CT14234E and future.  

However, plug 129077 is used as the block water drain plug on later TR6, and
so I don't believe it is brass nor as large as the brass plug seen in many
early valve covers.  WF0511 has an internal bore of 1/2", perhaps someone
can verify that their brass plug is larger than that?

I also found TSB T-63-68 which seems to imply that cover 306527 is the one
with the tube sticking out to the side, for the pipes that lead to the air
filters.  But it's also listed in my TR4A SPC (where I assume the side pipe
connected to the PCV valve).

-- Randall  


From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri Dec 31 17:19:44 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010 19:19:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Early Valve Cover Needed
Message-ID: <cdec4.7f665ba4.3a4fcd20@aol.com>

 
In a message dated 12/31/2010 5:22:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
trglory at verizon.net writes:

What say  the TR-4 spare parts catalogue?
Much the same as Randal but he has stated it better than I:
 
My SPC notes part number 304677 Fitted up to engine No. CT14233E.
 
Next and in between w/o any engine number noted is rocker number  306527.
Remarks: Closed circuit breather.
 
Rocker # 305614 is fitted from CT14234E. FYI this same rocker cover is  
listed in the TR4A SPC.
Darrell

 
 






From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Dec 31 18:00:12 2010
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010 20:00:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Early Valve Cover Needed
In-Reply-To: <0dbd01cba941$53956860$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <a6705.21c0afc7.3a4f4649@aol.com><003b01cba939$310f08d0$932d1a70$@net>
	<0dbd01cba941$53956860$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <8CD776660C80B63-960-81E46@webmail-d069.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>

However, plug 129077 is used as the block water drain plug on later 
TR6, and
so I don't believe it is brass nor as large as the brass plug seen in 
many
early valve covers.  WF0511 has an internal bore of 1/2", perhaps 
someone
can verify that their brass plug is larger than that?

==AM==
"Plug 129077" is also used for the block drain on Herald 1200 and 
Spitfire, etc., etc., I can verify that it is a brass plug. At the 
moment, I can't tell you what size the head is (and it's too dark and 
cold to go out and measure).

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us


  

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Dec 31 18:11:18 2010
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010 18:11:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] u-joint
In-Reply-To: <1dad9.533edfa3.3a4f9fd3@cs.com>
References: <1dad9.533edfa3.3a4f9fd3@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BFA2E074668043878C87DED92F3A3B30@bboffice>

Speaking of U-Joints, I noticed that TRF has the Hardy-Spicer U-Joint on
sale in their latest offering for $16.92.

NFI

Bill
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 2:06 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] u-joint

In a message dated 12/31/2010 2:58:23 PM Central Standard Time,
spamiam at comcast.net writes: 
> They can be a bugger to get apart.  The corrosion prevents the caps 
> from moving.  As a previous reply said, clean the corrosion so the cap 
> will slide.  The instructions say that gentle tapping is all that is 
> necessary to get the caps to move.  Well, it usually takes a BFH.  You 
> need to be aware
> 
> that wailing on the U-joint may well bend the yoke(s) and make the 
> holes for the caps no longer perfectly aligned.

I prefer to use an hydraulic press.  Failing that a vice will do.  Select a
couple sockets, one that is slightly smaller than the cap to pressthe T
through the yoke and  another large enough to accept the other cap  to back
up the other side of the yoke.

But whether you use a vice or a press, great care must be taken as either
one can apply enough force to deform or break the yoke.  Use good judgement
and if things don't move with a reasonable amount of force stop and check
out the situation.  Things may not be stright or rust or some other unwanted
substance (like a C-ring) may be causing problems.  

But after the last time I did this and had to take them back apart because
one of the rollers fell out of place I decided to take my driveshafts to
experts and have them done.  Saves me the agrivation.

Dave

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