From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Aug 1 00:21:42 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:21:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] What it Was Message-ID: Through the miracle of technology, I have solved the "mystery car" question. While watching a program on DVR and fast forwarding through commercials I caught a glimpse. Pause, back step by step ... very definitely an Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite. No Triumph, just a cousin. -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Aug 1 00:57:18 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 00:57:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] What it Was In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C551ACE.70706@dfn.com> Bill wrote: > "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people > undertake it." - Henry Ford "A great many people think they are thinking when they are merely rearranging their prejudices." - William James Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sun Aug 1 06:49:57 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 08:49:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Tr6 rims for a tr3a Message-ID: <1e93.6069d2e9.3986c775@aol.com> Hi David; YES! TR6 rims definitely work on a TR3A. I have owned five sidescreen TR's and all of them have had TR6 wheels fitted, either wire or steel. I believe, and this can be debated for ages for there are many who disagree, that they are an excellent upgrade. I strongly believe that the wider tyres the TR6 wheels afford, give better braking and safer emergency avoidance. I can't tell you if that tyre size will work. I have usually fitted 195/65-15 and not had a problem. I have heard of people fitting 185/70-15 with no problems. The size you refer to may well work, although they may also be a bit tall for optimum clearance, I'm not sure. Part of the problem is that it's almost a case that no two cars were built identically; there were tolerances. I've known of people who fit the tyre size that I use and they've had clearance problems, for instance. If it were my decision, I'd go for the TR6 rims and if tyre clearances are an issue, fit either 185/70-15 or 195/65-15. The wider tyres do not increase steering weight noticeably, incidentally. Tim Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, ON K0A 1B0 Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Aug 1 11:21:00 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 13:21:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr6 rims for a tr3a In-Reply-To: <1e93.6069d2e9.3986c775@aol.com> References: <1e93.6069d2e9.3986c775@aol.com> Message-ID: <201008011321.00776.yellowtr@adelphia.net> David, For my TR6 project I went with Superlite 15x6 with 205/70/15 BFG tires. I finally mounted them today and the fit is perfect and they really look great. One of these days I will put the same wheel on my 58 TR3A. But I will test fit the 205s before I get rubber for the 3. I am guessing the 205s will be to wide for the 3. Maybe I will go with a 185 or 195 for the 3 when that time comes. For my 63 4, I have 4.5/15 Dayton wires fitted them with 165/15 Coopers. For some reason, the TR4 looks best with wire wheels in my opinion. Bob From tr4zest at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 12:48:29 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 14:48:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Compression; Vacuum gauge Message-ID: Compression testing is invaluable in detecting variances and anomalies in one's own car and of little value in comparing from car to car and technique to technique - let alone the variances in the accuracy of the different gauges employed. The following factors (and a few I haven't thought of) will provide different readings: * How proficient is the unit at sealing the plug hole? * How good a shape is the car's starter and battery? * Is it a modern gear-reduction starter? * Have all the spark plugs been removed, or just the cylinder being measured? * How warm is the engine, how recently run? What is important is the relative readings on the cylinders on your car. To get a smooth idle and to run well, it is easier if all the cylinders read within 10-15% of each other. When I got my TR4 a few years ago, I had a terrible idle and low compression in #1. It took a while to discover it was the wrong valve guide (too big i/d). Easy enough to drift out and replace - my, what a difference. On another topic, one art we seem to have largely lost is the reading of a vacuum gauge on a running engine. It can reveal an amazing amount about the engine's overall health and flag specific faults. Take a look at the scenarios here: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm Brian Jones 1962 Triumph TR4 Valley Forge PA. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Aug 1 14:09:44 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 16:09:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Shroud question In-Reply-To: <919B40D5C4A34724910EE50CDDB95D91@CarlPC> References: <199347.99573.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <919B40D5C4A34724910EE50CDDB95D91@CarlPC> Message-ID: <53804F67ADE94CF19DB5FF87558E6296@CarlPC> A follow-up question: The radiator end of the larger pieces has a crimp that implies that it is bent forward. The question is: does it bend just to lay against the front of the radiator or does it bend about 115degrees so that it rests against the side of the radiator? That would mean the center piece is wider than the radiator and has to bend away from the front to attach to the side pieces. Sure wish I could find the center piece - that would probably answer the question. If anyone has an image of the mounted shroud - that could also be helpful. Thanks again Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 12:30 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 Radiator Shroud question >I am missing the piece that goes across the top of the radiator. Could >someone please measure the overall length; the height at each end and at >the center. I think it mirrors the top of the radiator, but not 100% >sure. > > Thanks > Carl > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Carl - Tampa > 1961 TR3A TS81802LO > Body Off Restoration > Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA) > http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ > (Photos updated 5/18/10) > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 15:10:16 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 14:10:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr6 rims for a tr3a In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 7/31/10, David Templeton wrote: > I have a line on some local '71 tr6 rims etc. Are these desirable for a > tr3a? I believe they will lack the 3 little pointy things that the 'hubcaps' are secured to, though some creative sorts have added those to TR6 rims. From trguy at cfl.rr.com Sun Aug 1 17:08:08 2010 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 19:08:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Steering Wheel Needed Message-ID: Anyone have a nice TR4 steering wheel that they are willing to sell for a reasonable price. mine has the aftermarket wooden wheel and I am not too fond of it. Many thanks, Jim Henningsen 62 TR4 CT5212LO 75 TR6 Mailtand, FL From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Aug 1 18:06:23 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 20:06:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party 2010 Message-ID: We just got back from the summer party and are still grinning. Had a wonderful time as usual. Participated in drag racing, poker run, LeMans start contest, winery tour, car show, autox, big dinner, and all for around $100 and there was more stuff we could have done but the days did not have enough hours in them. We have been attending this event for about 20 years now and the general format and the fun level is still the same. What has changed is the amount of people attending. There is only about a third of the people attending now as there was in the old days. The drag race and autox events have a fraction of participants from the early 90's. I pondered this on the drive back thinking to myself man, there should be a waiting list to get in this thing for as much fun as we have every year. What has changed over the years? Is it the economy? Is there just not that many of these old cars running any more? Has the age of the participants shifted to the point where doing these types of things with the cars is of no interest any more? Have the cars become too valuable to drive? What are your thoughts? Marty From banjonut at verizon.net Sun Aug 1 19:02:55 2010 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 18:02:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Need vent door fot TR3A Message-ID: <9B87D1A7-91EF-4FFF-AF7A-0FDB0B783449@verizon.net> Hi List! I need a working vent door assy for the '60 TR3A I'm restoring. If you have one or know of one for sale, please email me off-list since I get the digest. I need one with a working hinge, and the other little arm that's inside (can't remember what it's called). i already have two or three junkers in the garage, and this time i really need to find a good one. Thanks in advance, Steve Ball Lompoc Ca email: banjonut at verizon.net From banjonut at verizon.net Sun Aug 1 19:14:03 2010 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 18:14:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] More TR3A parts (or info) needed Message-ID: <5D34854E-7931-413C-A844-0E82166312B3@verizon.net> Hi again to the list, The further I get into the restoration of my TR3A I'm finding more items I need.....sounds logical I guess, but these are parts I forgot about and now I need them fairly soon. Does anyone know who supplies the wood pieces that go inside of the doors for a TR3? I have one "new" door (has two wood blocks) from a post 60,000 car, and one "old" door (the wood piece is made from three separate pieces, screwed together, and runs along the length of the top of the door). My wood is splitting badly, and looks like swiss cheese from all the screw holes from prior owners. I'm not a woodworker, so I'd like to find these parts ready-made somewhere, and replace the old ones. Any help is appreciated. Moss shows these in the catalog but they don't seem to stock them. Before i spend hours at the computer, searching for parts, I thought I'd ask the list. Thanks in advance . Please respond via my email since I get the digest form of the list. Steve Ball Lompoc CA email: banjonut at verizon.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Aug 2 05:20:22 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 07:20:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TRF Summer Party 2010 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201008020720.23360.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday, August 01, 2010 08:06:23 pm marty sukey wrote: > We just got back from the summer party and are still grinning. Had a > wonderful time as usual. Participated in drag racing, poker run, LeMans > start contest, winery tour, car show, autox, big dinner, and all for > around $100 and there was more stuff we could have done but the days did > not have enough hours in them. We have been attending this event for > about 20 years now and the general format and the fun level is still the > same. What has changed is the amount of people attending. There is only > about a third of the people attending now as there was in the old days. > The drag race and autox events have a fraction of participants from the > early 90's. I pondered this on the drive back thinking to myself man, > there should be a waiting list to get in this thing for as much fun as we > have every year. What has changed over the years? Is it the economy? Is > there just not that many of these old cars running any more? Has the age > of the participants shifted to the point where doing these types of things > with the cars is of no interest any more? Have the cars become too > valuable to drive? What are your thoughts? > > Marty Marty, I have been planning to attend for the past 3 or 4 years but something always comes up. The past 3 years it was weddings, moving the kids etc. But maybe next year? The reliability of my 3 and 4 are not an issue. They run like a top and I never worry about a breakdown when we are out on a drive. And I am sure the 6 will be the same (if I ever finish the restoration). Another problem is my obsession with restoring these cars! I just can't seem to stand still at home without a wrench in my hand! But the 72 6 will be my last project and it looks like I will be retiring next year about this time so maybe I can start planning now. But I wont be doing any autox or dragging that is for sure. My cars are drivers for sure but drivers only. The main reason I really want to attend is to meet folks like you who have helped me along the way with answers, ideas and tools. It seems that after all these years exchanging emails that it would be nice to put a face with a name for a change. Bob From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Aug 2 05:59:59 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 07:59:59 EDT Subject: [TR] Tr6 rims for a tr3a Message-ID: <1f461.68746a8c.39880d3f@aol.com> Sorry, I forgot to mention this. That's correct information: Your TR3A hubcaps won't fit the TR6 wheels. A friend of mine bought those three little pointy things, drilled them into the wheels and fitted the hubcaps; an easy modification. You could leave off the hubcaps altogether for that aggressive, racy look, or fit the TR6 centre caps for a more more modern look. Tim In a message dated 8/1/2010 5:19:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes: I believe they will lack the 3 little pointy things that the 'hubcaps' are secured to, though some creative sorts have added those to TR6 rims. Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, ON K0A 1B0 Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From djsforza at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 06:02:45 2010 From: djsforza at gmail.com (Don Sforza) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 08:02:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TRF Summer Party 2010 In-Reply-To: <201008020720.23360.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201008020720.23360.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: The TRF Summer Party has always been a hoot. I've missed it the past several years, but my '4 did take 2 Best in Class's and how can you beat meeting ALL those people you've talked to over the phone. I missed the first one, but was there for #2, #4 and #6... 400 cars, Main Street in Indiana on Sunday morning lined both side for a 1/4 miles with JUST TR6's!!! Impressive to say the least. Living in Florida makes it even tougher to get there (Connecticut was so close by comparison!)... the TR4 was solld to a collector several years ago, too. Maybe a flight into Jimmt Stewart Airport!! In spite of the difficulties with TRF in years past (long backorders, etc.), it remains THE place for accurate replacement parts for our LBC's. And the fact that the parts numbers MATCH the factory manuals is a real bonus. And the Summer Party is the place to celebrate it all. Don Sforza Ex CT16707L (anyone know where this car is now?) On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 7:20 AM, Bob wrote: > On Sunday, August 01, 2010 08:06:23 pm marty sukey wrote: > > We just got back from the summer party and are still grinning. Had a > > wonderful time as usual. Participated in drag racing, poker run, LeMans > > start contest, winery tour, car show, autox, big dinner, and all for > > around $100 and there was more stuff we could have done but the days did > > not have enough hours in them. We have been attending this event for > > about 20 years now and the general format and the fun level is still the > > same. What has changed is the amount of people attending. There is only > > about a third of the people attending now as there was in the old days. > > The drag race and autox events have a fraction of participants from the > > early 90's. I pondered this on the drive back thinking to myself man, > > there should be a waiting list to get in this thing for as much fun as we > > have every year. What has changed over the years? Is it the economy? Is > > there just not that many of these old cars running any more? Has the age > > of the participants shifted to the point where doing these types of > things > > with the cars is of no interest any more? Have the cars become too > > valuable to drive? What are your thoughts? > > > > Marty > Marty, > > I have been planning to attend for the past 3 or 4 years but something > always > comes up. > > The past 3 years it was weddings, moving the kids etc. But maybe next year? > > The reliability of my 3 and 4 are not an issue. They run like a top and I > never worry about a breakdown when we are out on a drive. And I am sure the > 6 > will be the same (if I ever finish the restoration). > > Another problem is my obsession with restoring these cars! I just can't > seem > to stand still at home without a wrench in my hand! > > But the 72 6 will be my last project and it looks like I will be retiring > next > year about this time so maybe I can start planning now. > > But I wont be doing any autox or dragging that is for sure. My cars are > drivers for sure but drivers only. > > The main reason I really want to attend is to meet folks like you who have > helped me along the way with answers, ideas and tools. > > It seems that after all these years exchanging emails that it would be nice > to > put a face with a name for a change. > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/djsforza at gmail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 2 08:34:50 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 07:34:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr6 rims for a tr3a In-Reply-To: <1f461.68746a8c.39880d3f@aol.com> References: <1f461.68746a8c.39880d3f@aol.com> Message-ID: <006301cb324f$de164e00$0301a8c0@randall> > A friend of mine bought those three little > pointy things, Any thoughts on where he found them? I've been making my own ... Randall From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Aug 2 08:40:19 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 10:40:19 EDT Subject: [TR] Tr6 rims for a tr3a Message-ID: <18ed9.5eeb1886.398832d3@aol.com> My understanding is that he took them off the original wheels that came with the car, but I have e-mailed him to ask. Tim Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, ON K0A 1B0 Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Aug 2 10:46:52 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 12:46:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TRF Summer Party 2010 In-Reply-To: <201008020720.23360.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: , <201008020720.23360.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: > But I wont be doing any autox or dragging that is for sure. My cars are > drivers for sure but drivers only. > > Bob Bob and all. Reconsider this. Sure there are a group of diehards that go for broke at these events but that does not mean all entrants have to do that. Back in the day we used to get a bunch of show cars at these two events. The owners drove at a reduced pace and at the end of the weekend the car was still intact and they were glad they tried it. You wont be the fastest cars at the drags but line up against a buddy who also does not want to beat on their car and go down the quarter mile at your pace smiling all the way. Same at the autox, there is no reason you cannot do your runs at the same pace you drive on a fast mountain road tour. There are plenty of us who would be happy to give the folks who have never autox'd some tips at the events. Give it some consideration. Marty From Loumetelko at aol.com Mon Aug 2 14:15:49 2010 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 16:15:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Tr6 rims for a tr3a Message-ID: <2ff3a.3da7e386.39888175@aol.com> My understanding is that he took them off the original wheels that came with the car, but I have e-mailed him to ask. Tim Sounds like a perfect way to ruin two sets of classic car wheels. Rather a dummmmm idea. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 2 16:05:29 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 15:05:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr6 rims for a tr3a In-Reply-To: <2ff3a.3da7e386.39888175@aol.com> References: <2ff3a.3da7e386.39888175@aol.com> Message-ID: <0caa01cb328e$d66aa810$833ff830$@rr.com> > Sounds like a perfect way to ruin two sets of classic car wheels. > Rather a dummmmm idea. Thanks for the vote of confidence, Lou, but I've already gotten quite a few favorable comments about the modified TR6 wheels on my TR3. http://tinyurl.com/2445swv And anyone who couldn't find damaged TR3 wheels to rob isn't really trying very hard. Hard to say they were "ruined" when they were ready for the scrap yard anyway. (I just didn't see how to get the posts off, so I made new ones instead.) I realize they aren't "correct", but some of us like to actually drive our cars and IMO keeping up with modern day Los Angeles traffic (not to mention stopping) requires better tires than are available for the old skinny rims. -- Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Aug 2 16:32:41 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 18:32:41 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TRF Summer Party 2010 Message-ID: <81d0e.2398de12.3988a189@aol.com> In a message dated 8/1/2010 8:06:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: What are your thoughts? Marty, First Thought? Everyone who attended "Lucked Out Big Time" on the weather, good job Dave or whomever ordered that up. The Mudster Factory never more I hope. Second, shucks, some of us must work, especially during prime time vacation season when many conflicts abound. Therefore early notice is important. Then, I Like the Drive End Movie, and I really like the Pewter Mugs that were once awarded. Honest Injun, I just put a second place ribbon from 2002, second place in class autocross in my showcase. I have a few of those thrown about. I believe the downgrade in awards took some wind out of the sails of the Event. All that being said I am pissed that I had to work. I think my 70 Spit, 1296 could have wiped Team Sukey out. Of course it would have required a good driver which is not me at this time. Then I bet I could have put it in the Show and won something. Charles is the Best, by far, I will not miss another summer party ever! Bummed Big Time. Darrell From keithstewart at execulink.com Mon Aug 2 17:16:40 2010 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 19:16:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 326 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3579869F-D1DA-4526-8AFD-FF5C5551407F@execulink.com> Right you are Marty. I have been at every Summer Party except the first one - even in the years where they did not have a summer party, I visited anyway. Summer Party started as a way for TRF to thank their customers. The events were great, the new friends were phenomenal, and checking out what may or not be correct on so many cars was a fantastic opportunity. Many years ago, there were over 1000 people at the BBQ and drive-in movie and then the next night, sitting down to dinner followed by live entertainment and a dance. There is nothing like it. For the first few years, we drove our TR4. Later, we brought our Spitfire. More recently we have brought our TR3. Maybe cancelling now and again was a mistake. Maybe moving the date around was a mistake. But, regardless, the fun and value remain fantastic. Early on, my wife and I made Summer Party a family vacation every year. Now, the kids have all moved on to lives of their own but still reminisce about Summer Party and talk about one day coming back for one more Summer Party. In fact, we are thinking about how to make all of that happen - I have to figure out how to get enough cars ready for everyone. Any way, it is hard to believe that more Triumph owners (and other marques) do not take advantage of such a fantastic opportunity and value. It doesn't matter whether you are into the competitive aspects (well done Sukey family and Richard Goode) or the fun aspects (fantastic Mountain Tour and Winery Tour) we all appreciate Dave's bonfires and music at TRF's grounds and the fantastic friendships we have developed over the years. Charles is more than just a vendor, he has always been a supporter of our hobby and in the case of the Summer Party, a provider of fantastic opportunities. Thanks Charles. For those who have never been or for those who have not been there in a long time, let's all get together next year and have a blast. I hope to see more of you on the streets of Indiana PA next summer. Keith Stewart London, Ontario On 2010-08-02, at 2:00 PM, Marty Sukey wrote: > Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 20:06:23 -0400 > From: marty sukey > Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party 2010 > To: 6 Digest <6pack at autox.team.net>, Triumph List > > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > We just got back from the summer party and are still grinning. Had a wonderful > time as usual. Participated in drag racing, poker run, LeMans start contest, > winery tour, car show, autox, big dinner, and all for around $100 and there > was more stuff we could have done but the days did not have enough hours in > them. We have been attending this event for about 20 years now and the > general format and the fun level is still the same. What has changed is the > amount of people attending. There is only about a third of the people > attending now as there was in the old days. The drag race and autox events > have a fraction of participants from the early 90's. I pondered this on the > drive back thinking to myself man, there should be a waiting list to get in > this thing for as much fun as we have every year. What has changed over the > years? Is it the economy? Is there just not that many of these old cars > running any more? Has the age of the participants shifted to the point where > doing these types of things with the cars is of no interest any more? Have the > cars become too valuable to drive? What are your thoughts? > > Marty From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Aug 2 17:56:21 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 19:56:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Tr6 rims for a tr3a Message-ID: <31bea.715ac277.3988b525@aol.com> Calling it a dumb idea might be a bit premature; as stated, I'm not entirely sure they were taken from the original rims but will update the list when I find out. In the meantime, I'm with Randall on this one. I'm not convinced the rims would have been ruined anyway, and there are plenty of TR6 rims around, such that drilling three holes in four of them doesn't seem unsympathetic. Just my opinion, of course. Oh, plus I don't think there's any other way to fit TR3 caps to a TR6 rim, of course. Tim From trguy at cfl.rr.com Mon Aug 2 18:03:01 2010 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 20:03:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Correct TR4/TR4A/TR250 Steel Wheel Size Message-ID: <305606DCC87D49C6BAE4F80BD8FC8A6A@TRGUY> Ok, now I am in quandry. My 62 TR4 came with 4 inch steel wheels, which I thought were correct for TR2-3. The TRA concours guidelines stated the TR4 came with 4 1/2 inch steel wheels. However, a few original literature pieces I have looked at mention the 4 inch steel wheels as standard on the TR4. These are the wheels that are riveted together. A club member mentioned that the TR250 came with 4 1/2 inch steel wheels that were welded and not riveted. Does this sound right to folks? I have a set of both right now and plan on using the wider 4 1/2 inch rim so I can put 185 width tires on. Thanks, Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL (oppressive heat - that was the forecast in the paper!) 62 TR4 CT5212LO 75 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 2 18:47:08 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 17:47:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Correct TR4/TR4A/TR250 Steel Wheel Size In-Reply-To: <305606DCC87D49C6BAE4F80BD8FC8A6A@TRGUY> References: <305606DCC87D49C6BAE4F80BD8FC8A6A@TRGUY> Message-ID: <0cfe01cb32a5$69d9b8a0$3d8d29e0$@rr.com> > However, a few original literature > pieces > I have looked at mention the 4 inch steel wheels as standard on the > TR4. Wow, that seems strange! It was my understanding that only very early TR2s had 4" wheels, the steel wheel specification was changed to 4.5" at TS1869 according to several references. > A club member > mentioned that > the TR250 came with 4 1/2 inch steel wheels that were welded and not > riveted. > Does this sound right to folks? I'm certainly no expert, but I don't think that's right. My recollection is that the TR250 wheels were 5", and the Moss catalog agrees. > I have a set of both right now and plan on using the wider 4 1/2 inch > rim so > I can put 185 width tires on. Didn't the TR250 also have "Rostyle" hub caps? That means the wheels will have those extra long posts, something like an inch longer than the proper TR4 wheels. I don't know if the TR4 hubcaps will mount on them, but they would look funny (IMO) if they will. -- Randall From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Aug 2 18:47:33 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 17:47:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] wood inside doors Message-ID: <823842.1426.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I also have the wood pieces inside the doors (tr-3) riddled by old used screw holes. I planned on making new ones but didn't think i could make them myself since there were some curves in the wood that I didn't think I could get right. I've decided to use my old ones and have filled the holes with the best wood putty/filler I could find. My only concern is whether the wood filler will be strong enough to hold the brackets with side curtains for years. However, I'm thinking the side curtains might not be used much at all so this might not be an issue in the long run. just some thoughts gary n. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Aug 2 18:53:18 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 17:53:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] summer party Message-ID: <205900.44496.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> One issue for me is the distance to summer party. I hesitate driving my triumph because of the distance (and wife's comfort, a/c yadda yadda yadda). However, it might help and be fun to have various caravans from different parts of the country driving to summer party. People could connect/join the band all along the route culminating in one group in Pa. Might be more security in numbers with the possibility of plenty of tech. help in times of trouble. gary n. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Aug 2 19:05:47 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 18:05:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-6 rims on tr-3 Message-ID: <568385.44550.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> that is a cool look randall. Really looks smooth and cool. I was thinking of either wires or panasport for my restored tr-3 when it's done but think i'll reconsider at least initially. The tr-6 wheels would look good until money can be saved for others. as far as ruining wheels with the modification.............the addition of the pointy things would only mean drilling three holes which could be easily welded shut and painted over later if needed. gary n. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 2 19:20:31 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 18:20:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr-6 rims on tr-3 In-Reply-To: <568385.44550.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <568385.44550.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0d0e01cb32aa$114eff10$33ecfd30$@rr.com> > as far as ruining wheels with the modification.............the addition > of the > pointy things would only mean drilling three holes which could be > easily welded > shut and painted over later if needed. Indeed, it wouldn't even take welding. Just stick a bolt in the hole, with Loctite or peening to hold it in place, then cut it off flush and paint. But since I have no plans to sell the wheels (in fact, I'm buying some more tomorrow, because one of mine got damaged on the way to TRfest last year), it doesn't really matter. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 2 19:30:27 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 18:30:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] wood inside doors In-Reply-To: <823842.1426.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <823842.1426.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0d0f01cb32ab$74950230$5dbf0690$@rr.com> > I've decided to use my old ones and have filled the holes with the best > wood > putty/filler I could find. Another way to deal with this issue is with hardwood dowels, readily available at any lumberyard, Home Depot, etc. Choose a suitable size, based on the existing hole, then drill into the old wood with that size drill bit. Coat the dowel with wood glue (or even Elmer's will work well enough), tap it into the hole, wait for the glue to dry, and cut it off flush. The result is as strong as the original wood (maybe even stronger); and the dowel will take threads just like the original wood. You can also repeat the process if you have multiple, overlapping holes. MUCH better than wood putty, IMO. -- Randall From bobannand at hfx.eastlink.ca Mon Aug 2 20:02:23 2010 From: bobannand at hfx.eastlink.ca (Bob Annand) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 23:02:23 -0300 Subject: [TR] wood inside doors References: <823842.1426.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <0d0f01cb32ab$74950230$5dbf0690$@rr.com> Message-ID: <690702F939314A39B23803A6F1424914@YOUR325EAEAE2D> Another trick, picked up off this list, is to insert and break off some toothpicks in the original holes. This tightens the fit and is the ultimate in inexpensive. Bob TS5779L ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Gary Nafziger'" ; Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:30 PM Subject: Re: [TR] wood inside doors From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Aug 2 20:23:02 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 21:23:02 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] wood inside doors Message-ID: <28001078.762689.1280802182935.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net> From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Aug 2 20:42:48 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 22:42:48 EDT Subject: [TR] tr-6 rims on tr-3: Update Message-ID: <3a258.3848d6eb.3988dc28@aol.com> Hi all; In my earlier email I stated that I thought my friend with the 3A had removed the pointed hubcap retainers from the TR3A wheels and inserted them into the TR6 wheels. Jim has just responded to me to confirm this. Here's what he says: Yes, exactly. I ground off the backs and welded them on to the TR6 rims (which may have been TR250 rims; I don't know, but they had the "landing pad" for the retainers already there.) Jim From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Aug 2 21:22:56 2010 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 23:22:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr-6 rims on tr-3 In-Reply-To: <568385.44550.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <568385.44550.qm@web65301.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1610449ED6474FA59A79692207B2791B@AlexPC> A lot of info on these clips. Technique http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/smokey_culver/hubcaps.htm Kit http://www2.cip1.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=C16%2D111%2D115C Just google hubcap clips. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Nafziger" To: Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 9:05 PM Subject: [TR] tr-6 rims on tr-3 > that is a cool look randall. Really looks smooth and cool. I was > thinking of > either wires or panasport for my restored tr-3 when it's done but think > i'll > reconsider at least initially. The tr-6 wheels would look good until > money can > be saved for others. > > > as far as ruining wheels with the modification.............the addition of > the > pointy things would only mean drilling three holes which could be easily > welded > shut and painted over later if needed. > > gary n. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Aug 3 05:02:46 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 07:02:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] summer party In-Reply-To: <205900.44496.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <205900.44496.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201008030702.47657.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday, August 02, 2010 08:53:18 pm Gary Nafziger wrote: > One issue for me is the distance to summer party. I hesitate driving my > triumph because of the distance (and wife's comfort, a/c yadda yadda > yadda). However, it might help and be fun to have various caravans from > different parts of the country driving to summer party. People could > connect/join the band all along the route culminating in one group in Pa. > > Might be more security in numbers with the possibility of plenty of tech. > help in times of trouble. > > gary n. > > Gary, That is a great idea. Safety in numbers plus the sight of a line of Triumphs driving down the highway would be great. It should be easy to coordinate meet up points along the way without too much delay for the final push into Armagh. Depending on city or origin, a central location on the route could be agreed upon by the group passing through that location. With cell phones, GPSs etc. it would be easy monitor the groups progress on meet up points. I am sure others have grouped together in the past and maybe they can chime in on routes and communication etc. I think anyone (like me) who has never been to the TRF party should keep this in mind for next year. Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Aug 3 05:06:06 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 07:06:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] wood inside doors In-Reply-To: <823842.1426.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <823842.1426.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201008030706.06736.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday, August 02, 2010 08:47:33 pm Gary Nafziger wrote: > I also have the wood pieces inside the doors (tr-3) riddled by old used > screw holes. I planned on making new ones but didn't think i could make > them myself since there were some curves in the wood that I didn't think I > could get right. > > I've decided to use my old ones and have filled the holes with the best > wood putty/filler I could find. My only concern is whether the wood > filler will be strong enough to hold the brackets with side curtains for > years. However, I'm thinking the side curtains might not be used much at > all so this might not be an issue in the long run. > > just some thoughts > > gary n. > Gary, I was saddled with the same problem with my 58 3. I took an idea from my dad and drilled out the holes and filled them with maple dowels glued in with permanent wood glue. Sanded them down and finished with some varnish to prevent water penetration and warp. Make sure the dowels fit real tight. Worked great. Bob From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Aug 3 05:15:16 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 07:15:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] summer party References: <205900.44496.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <201008030702.47657.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Some sage once said: "You're only a flatbed away from home". FOG 1 From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 3 06:03:42 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 05:03:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 rings fit on a TR3/4 wheel Message-ID: <369726.52254.qm@web51602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi list! Ok, I'm following the thread on changing TR3 ->to TR6 wheels. My question is: Will the TR6 rings fit on a TR3/4 wheel? -Cosmo Kramer From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Aug 3 06:27:45 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 08:27:45 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 rings fit on a TR3/4 wheel Message-ID: No, they won't fit (I assume you mean TR6 trim rings?). Anyway, the TR6 rims are a much deeper dish, or heavier offset, whichever terminology you prefer. The clips won't engage on the rim of the TR3/4 wheels because the depth of the trim ring causes it to hit the base of the wheel before the clips come close to touching the rim of the TR3/4 wheel. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news! Tim From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Aug 3 06:39:53 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 12:39:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] summer party In-Reply-To: <201008030702.47657.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <205900.44496.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <201008030702.47657.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C30256@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> We organized a group trip to the summer party for our club, New England Triumphs. I highly recommend this approach for long trips (around 1400 miles for us) as you never know what might go wrong. One of our cars had an electrical problem on the way home that took out the brake lights so we just sandwiched him between two TR6's. We planned an overnight stop about half way so that we were not driving for more than 6 hours (about 8 hours elapsed with stops) in one day and in addition to a lunch break we stopped every two hours to stretch, find a restroom etc. The half-way point for us was in the Stroudsburg area and from there we took routes 45 and 22 (not sure of their proper designations) to Armagh. These are fantastic roads for Triumphs with hardly any traffic other than the occasional Amish horse and buggy. Who knew Pennsylvania grows so much corn !. We planned the route using Google maps, used the street view feature to identify suitable food/gas/restroom stops and also to identify way-points that we could program into the GPS. As we reached one way point we would select the next and let the GPS guide us over our somewhat indirect route. For these trips the journey is as much a part of the experience as the destination and I'm already looking forward to our next club trip. We really enjoyed the summer party and it was great to meet people that I only knew online as well as old and new friends. I will be disappointed if this was the last one. Stan From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 3 08:02:30 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 07:02:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] summer party In-Reply-To: References: <205900.44496.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com><201008030702.47657.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <003f01cb3314$84139730$0301a8c0@randall> > Some sage once said: "You're only a flatbed away from home". OTOH, there is an amazing amount of country between here and there with no cell phone coverage ... And signs with legends like "Next exit 54 miles, No Services". Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Aug 3 09:54:14 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 09:54:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] summer party In-Reply-To: <205900.44496.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <205900.44496.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2C170109-2335-4B00-8B41-E47AC929120B@comcast.net> Caravanning can be enjoyable if you have the right mix of cars, people, and agendas. Some folks are more prepared than others and tend to have their cars more prepared for long trips by doing the preventive maintenance...newly packed wheel bearings, properly inflated tires, cooling system maintenance, etc.... and carrying spare parts that can't be had at a auto discount store such as fuel pump, water pump, heater valve. Others will take off with no more prep than they would for a 1- hour cruise and when something goes wrong are not prepared to do much more than wait for AAA to show up. If your schedule is flexible enough to spend 5-6 days traveling to an event rather than 3-4 then its not a problem but I usually have a certain number of days allocated (usually dictated by SWMBO) for long (3000-5000 mile) trips and don't have the luxury of stopping for the almost certain problems, stops, and delays that crop up with 10-20 other cars. I have cruise control on my 6 and it makes it difficult to caravan with others who don't as the inevitable yo-yo ing back and forth as speeds change on the hills and valleys defeats the purpose of the cruise which is to keep my right leg rested and off the gas pedal for hours on end. There is also the different agendas that people have with wanting to stop and see things along the way such as the world's largest ball of string or something of that sort that others don't really want to stop for. And trying to balance the stomach and bladder requirements of a bunch of 50-60 yo people can mean lots of stops that you would never make on your own. Caravanning does have the benefits of having ready and experienced help if there's a problem... Brad Kahler and I fixed a hose on Dave Massey's TR8 pretty quickly going to VTR 2000 in Portland... and having company at the end of the day is always fun. As with anything there's trade-offs and everyone has to decide the costs and benefits of caravanning. I've done it both ways and they both have their advantages but most of the time I prefer the much needed mental therapy of mindlessly cruising along until I get hungry, need gas, or need a bio break. Having said that I'll probably hook up with Brad and Susan Kahler in Kentucky to caravan to Jekyll Island in October. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Aug 2, 2010, at 6:53 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > One issue for me is the distance to summer party. I hesitate > driving my triumph > because of the distance (and wife's comfort, a/c yadda yadda > yadda). However, > it might help and be fun to have various caravans from different > parts of the > country driving to summer party. People could connect/join the band > all along > the route culminating in one group in Pa. > > Might be more security in numbers with the possibility of plenty of > tech. help > in times of trouble. > > gary n. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From ebartle at hbci.com Tue Aug 3 09:58:16 2010 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 10:58:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A engine running rough Message-ID: <075f01cb3324$b59289f0$20b79dd0$@com> My TR3A just started running rough like it was missing. Not being an experienced mechanic I thought I would seek some advice on how to track down the source of the problem I would appreciate any suggestions Eric From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 3 10:26:00 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 09:26:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A engine running rough In-Reply-To: <075f01cb3324$b59289f0$20b79dd0$@com> References: <075f01cb3324$b59289f0$20b79dd0$@com> Message-ID: <006b01cb3328$8fa08040$0301a8c0@randall> > My TR3A just started running rough like it was missing. Not being an > experienced mechanic I thought I would seek some advice on > how to track down the source of the problem Could be lots of things. First of course is just a visual inspection for any obvious problems: dripping fuel, loose wires, etc. Poke the throttle linkage and check that the rear carb opens too. If it hasn't had a major tune-up recently, I would probably do that next. Otherwise, try to identify which cylinder is missing and swap it's spark plug with another cylinder. If the problem follows the plug, obviously the plug is bad (even new plugs can sometimes fail). I would also check the "end to end" resistance of the spark plug wires (from terminal inside dizzy cap to plug terminal). The value itself isn't important, only that all of the wires are roughly the same resistance. IOW if three of them are in the 8K to 12K range, and one is 25K, the 25K one is probably bad. A quick mixture test is appropriate too, just lift the "diddle pin" on each carb and see what the idle rpm does. If it rises a bit and then falls back to where it was, the mixture is good. There is more, but that's where I would start. FWIW, although I would rate it low on the list of likely suspects; last time this happened to me it turned out to be a failed ignition coil. Crappy Lucas part only lasted 53 years! Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 3 11:49:33 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 10:49:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 rings fit on a TR3/4 wheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009101cb3334$3bb82170$0301a8c0@randall> > No, they won't fit (I assume you mean TR6 trim rings?). However, the factory did offer somewhat similar trim rings (in chrome) to fit the TR3/4 wheel. Originals are rare, and reproductions are rather expensive, but they do exist. http://tinyurl.com/2azs583 Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 3 12:08:29 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 11:08:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 rings fit on a TR3/4 wheel In-Reply-To: <009101cb3334$3bb82170$0301a8c0@randall> References: <009101cb3334$3bb82170$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <393184.94074.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> or one could try http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Appearance-and-Personalization/W heel-Cover-Trim-Ring/_/N-261p?filterByKeyWord=trim+rings&fromString=search they look really good on buddy Paul's TR3 frank fisher ________________________________ From: Randall To: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, August 3, 2010 10:49:33 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 rings fit on a TR3/4 wheel > No, they won't fit (I assume you mean TR6 trim rings?). However, the factory did offer somewhat similar trim rings (in chrome) to fit the TR3/4 wheel. Originals are rare, and reproductions are rather expensive, but they do exist. http://tinyurl.com/2azs583 Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Aug 3 14:13:43 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 16:13:43 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A engine running rough Message-ID: <488dc.342fc80e.3989d277@aol.com> Eric; Just to give a bit more detail on Randall's bit where he quite correctly suggests figuring out which cylinder is missing: You can do this by removing one spark plug wire, one at a time, and listen to see if there is a difference. On three out of four, it should run even worse. On one of them, there will be no difference if the problem is related to electrics going to one particular cylinder. Just be careful not to 'zap' yourself when removing each wire. If there's a difference on each of all four when you remove each spark plug wire, either there is an electrical problem with a component or connection that affects all four cylinders (such as coil, points, condensor, etc.) or it's a fuel problem. Let us know how you get on. Tim From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Aug 3 16:55:37 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 22:55:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] wood inside doors In-Reply-To: <823842.1426.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <546374145.949478.1280876137510.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >I've decided to use my old ones and have filled the holes with the best wood >putty/filler I could find. My only concern is whether the wood filler will be >strong enough to hold the brackets with side curtains for years. Hi, Gary. I had the same problem. What I did was drill the largest hole I could find a drill for, and glue-plug it with a section of oak dowel. Five years later, the repair is still holding strong as new. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tr3 at roadrunner.com Tue Aug 3 22:22:08 2010 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (HANS DEFERRANTE) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 21:22:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fwd: wood inside doors References: <823842.1426.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <24D5286A-E986-45A4-AF58-48BAEE184887@roadrunner.com> Hi Gary, I got my '61 TR3 largely in boxes and am just about to finish the restoration. I was quite puzzled as to how the side curtains plates attached to the door until I saw your e-mail. There was nothing like it in those boxes. Could you, or some one out there, take some photos that show what they look like and how and where they fit in the doors and I 'll try to fashion something perhaps from laminated wood, if necessary? Thanks, Hans Begin forwarded message: > I planned on making new ones but didn't think i could make them > myself > since there were some curves in the wood that I didn't think I > could get right. > > I've decided to use my old ones and have filled the holes with the > best wood > putty/filler I could find. My only concern is whether the wood > filler will be > strong enough to hold the brackets with side curtains for years. > However, I'm > thinking the side curtains might not be used much at all so this > might not be an > issue in the long run. > > just some thoughts > > gary n. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ > tr3 at roadrunner.com From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Aug 3 22:30:06 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 21:30:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] reply to hans.......wood inside doors Message-ID: <257900.5776.qm@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Hans, the wood pieces should be inside the doors already and not seperate from the doors unless someone took them out. If someone took them out and they're missing then it might be somewhat diffiicult to make. they have a slight curve along the outside where they fit against the door as well as a concave top which another round trim piece fits too. I'll try to take some pics however and attach............for the list. gary n. From popnglo at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 08:14:44 2010 From: popnglo at gmail.com (popnglo at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 14:14:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A engine running rough In-Reply-To: <488dc.342fc80e.3989d277@aol.com> Message-ID: <00163645920c2f5848048d000e70@google.com> If its just rough running, it could be as simple as re-gapping the points (if you still have those) or as complex as others input. For me the gap is usually the culprit, and what I check first. Ed (Hudson Valley NY) On Aug 3, 2010 4:13pm, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: From agraham at execulink.com Wed Aug 4 10:43:20 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 12:43:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 brake&clutch mcs.rebuild kits. Message-ID: <4C5998A8.9050702@execulink.com> Hello List: Picked up some rebuild kits for the brake and clutch m/cs. for the TR4 style individual cylinders/reservoirs. Trying to figure out how the spring/piston assemblies come apart to fit the new seals. Any tips on how to release the piston from the spring? No instructions with the kits and my first look at these cylinders. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From mark at bradakis.com Wed Aug 4 19:56:42 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 19:56:42 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] Server woes Message-ID: <20100805015642.88F8D2E0CA@bradakis.com> Came home from work and found out there were issues, starting a bit after noon Utah time. Team.Net is now back on the air. I wonder how many "Is this thing on?" messages I'll have to delete over the next little while? mjb, the one who is obviously overpaid and underworked when it comes to Team.Net! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 4 16:07:17 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 15:07:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 brake&clutch mcs.rebuild kits. In-Reply-To: <4C5998A8.9050702@execulink.com> References: <4C5998A8.9050702@execulink.com> Message-ID: <100c01cb3421$67459690$35d0c3b0$@rr.com> > Any tips on > how to release the piston from the spring? Look through the spring at the metal "thimble" on the piston inside the spring. On one side of the thimble is a rectangular prong that sticks down inside the thimble. If you gently pry up on that prong, it should release the thimble from the piston. With the piston out of the way, you can move the rod to the side, which will release the thimble and spring. Check out Nelson's "Clutch Hydraulics" article on the Buckeye Triumphs site. The TR6 clutch MC is basically identical to the TR4 brake & clutch MCs. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Aug 4 18:02:56 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 20:02:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 brake&clutch mcs.rebuild kits. In-Reply-To: <4C5998A8.9050702@execulink.com> References: <4C5998A8.9050702@execulink.com> Message-ID: <201008042002.57125.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday, August 04, 2010 12:43:20 pm Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello List: > Picked up some rebuild kits for the brake and clutch m/cs. for the TR4 > style individual cylinders/reservoirs. Trying to figure out how the > spring/piston assemblies come apart to fit the new seals. Any tips on > how to release the piston from the spring? No instructions with the kits > and my first look at these cylinders. > Thanks for any help with this. > Angelo Graham > Angelo, This sort of hard to describe but I will give it a go. After you remove the piston/spring assembly from the mc body, look at where the spring buts against the piston. There is a black piece there that the spring sort of fits on. What you have to do is carefully pry up the metal tab that is pressed into the bottom of the piston groove - the real small diameter part. Once you do this the spring will come off. When you are ready to re- assemble, just put it back and press in the tab. The tab holds it all together. Remember, this assembly is spring loaded so be careful when you pry up the tab. Hold the spring in your hand so it doesn't go flying off in to the land of lost parts. Bob From tr3 at roadrunner.com Wed Aug 4 18:43:26 2010 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 17:43:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fwd: reply to hans.......wood inside doors References: <257900.5776.qm@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks, Bill and Gary for your pics and info. Evidently, as revealed by your pics, your doors are different from the newer '61 TR3A. Mine only has 2 wooden blocks that each back the whole mounting plate and there is no curved piece of wood that runs between them. Instead , the door metal (lip) runs farther down to hold the upholstered panel screws. We did find those blocks. They had somehow ended up, forgotten, in my son's garage, who recognized them with the info. I got from you. And, thanks anyway for the offer, Robert Hans From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Aug 4 20:10:08 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 22:10:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 gas tank panel board Message-ID: I just finished re-installing the gas tank after having it cleaned and sealed. I bought a new replacement panel board and also purchased 8 screws, 8 washers and 4 spire nuts for its installation. I know the 4 spire nuts fasten to tub for the 4 bottom holes. On the 4 holes across the top it looks like there are just 4 screws and 4 washers. What do the screws fasten too? Do they just screw into the cardboard panel, or ? The earlier TR4s didn't use the top 4 screws, they apparently came into use sometime later in the TR4 production run. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! Brad 1963 TR4 From rjones at wfeca.net Wed Aug 4 16:13:15 2010 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 18:13:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Gas Tank In-Reply-To: <24D5286A-E986-45A4-AF58-48BAEE184887@roadrunner.com> References: <823842.1426.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <24D5286A-E986-45A4-AF58-48BAEE184887@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <53CC03A6-86E6-43F5-B235-0FEA46254F59@wfeca.net> Folks: On my way to and back to the TRF Summer Party, I had problems with pieces of the fuel tank liner that I put in about 20 years ago clogging up my fuel filter. As it is in-line with the electric fuel pump on the inside of the frame rail, both times I had to be towed to a garage to have the fuel filter changed and the fuel line blown out back to the tank. I am now in the market for a new tanked. Does anyone have any experience with the VB replacement tank they sell for around $200. The alloy tanks that I have found are around $575. I also know there is a company named gas tank renu. Has anyone used this service for a TR 6 tank, and if so, how much was it. Thanks for your help. From trmarty at hotmail.com Wed Aug 4 20:21:41 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 22:21:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Empty trailer ohio Message-ID: There is a chance I will have an empty open car trailer going to / from the Oxford Ohio area to the Cleveland Ohio area mid September. If you need a vehicle transported in that general area contact me off list. Marty From peter at nosimport.com Wed Aug 4 15:57:02 2010 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 16:57:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 brake&clutch mcs.rebuild kits. In-Reply-To: <4C5998A8.9050702@execulink.com> References: <4C5998A8.9050702@execulink.com> Message-ID: <201008041457857.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> The Girling single cylinders, I assume. Depress the spring slightly, and lever the little tab in the thin steel cup, bit outward. Peter C = At 11:43 AM 8/4/2010, Angelo Graham wrote: >Hello List: >Picked up some rebuild kits for the brake and clutch m/cs. for the >TR4 style individual cylinders/reservoirs. Trying to figure out how >the spring/piston assemblies come apart to fit the new seals. Any >tips on how to release the piston from the spring? No instructions >with the kits and my first look at these cylinders. >Thanks for any help with this. >Angelo Graham From pethier at comcast.net Wed Aug 4 21:02:34 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 03:02:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Server woes In-Reply-To: <20100805015642.88F8D2E0CA@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1939216782.52398.1280977354515.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Something in the air. The Minnesota Autosports Club site crashed Sunday night and just got up today. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven SOLD 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark J Bradakis" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, August 4, 2010 8:56:42 PM > Subject: [TR] Server woes > > Came home from work and found out there were issues, starting > a bit after noon Utah time. Team.Net is now back on the air. > > I wonder how many "Is this thing on?" messages I'll have to > delete over the next little while? > > mjb, the one who is obviously overpaid and underworked > when it comes to Team.Net! > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Aug 4 16:04:42 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 18:04:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: Standard Marque Rallye 2010 in the UK Message-ID: <6F1A3F4A15BC4FBA95647F029CBCAFBE@CarlPC> For your viewing pleasure.... A youtube vignette for the Standard Marque DVD.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tWCbMyCYKE From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 4 22:25:04 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 22:25:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: reply to hans.......wood inside doors In-Reply-To: References: <257900.5776.qm@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5B5557C81A7240AEB891E38E160E42C2@bboffice> Hans, Glad to hear you found what you needed. Your car must be a post-TS60000 model when they changed the door design, less wood. All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hans de Ferrante Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 6:43 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Fwd: reply to hans.......wood inside doors Thanks, Bill and Gary for your pics and info. Evidently, as revealed by your pics, your doors are different from the newer '61 TR3A. Mine only has 2 wooden blocks that each back the whole mounting plate and there is no curved piece of wood that runs between them. Instead , the door metal (lip) runs farther down to hold the upholstered panel screws. We did find those blocks. They had somehow ended up, forgotten, in my son's garage, who recognized them with the info. I got from you. And, thanks anyway for the offer, Robert Hans _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Aug 5 07:03:35 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 09:03:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 Message-ID: <90159D9735C54EF9894A259211C2DF94@Edscomputer> List, After 40 years and countless 'A' type overdrives, I recently had two that were not releasing from overdrive. I spent a couple of hours with the owner of one of them and his TR4 this a.m. and determined that the o/d clutch was sticking. A light tap with a hammer would release it each and every time it hung up. The fluid in the unit was 30 wt, non-detergent from a local FLAPS. Having read of a similar experience on the Healey list, and not wanting to give up my lead hammer, I suggested that we try Redline MT90 as the Healey owner had done to solve the problem. Here's the TR4 owner's subsequent email: "I went straight to Foreign auto and picked up 4 containers of it. Drained and refilled with the MT-90. I just got back from the test drive before the downpour with GREAT results! No more issue with the OD. I'll bring the 2 containers to you ($11 each!) and the socket. I'll return tommorrow morning 10-11 am if that works with you? I love the transmission, remember this is the first time I drove a type A. Wonderful. " Now I'm not trying to start a long winded discussion here, and I'm not suggesting that we all run out and buy Redline MT90. I'm just suggesting that, in the event you have a newly rebuilt 'A' type that sticks in overdrive, you might consider changing the fluid. I'll report on how this "fix" works on the second transmission when that owner makes the change. And, by the way, this overdrive is developing 430 psi. Ed Woods From pethier at comcast.net Thu Aug 5 07:30:05 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 13:30:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 In-Reply-To: <90159D9735C54EF9894A259211C2DF94@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <844420176.63647.1281015005937.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> How nicely does MT90 play with the synchros and diffent metals in the transmission? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven SOLD 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ed Woods" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, August 5, 2010 8:03:35 AM > Subject: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 > > List, > > After 40 years and countless 'A' type overdrives, I recently had two > that were > not releasing from overdrive. I spent a couple of hours with the owner > of one > of them and his TR4 this a.m. and determined that the o/d clutch was > sticking. > A light tap with a hammer would release it each and every time it hung > up. The > fluid in the unit was 30 wt, non-detergent from a local FLAPS. Having > read of > a similar experience on the Healey list, and not wanting to give up my > lead > hammer, I suggested that we try Redline MT90 as the Healey owner had > done to > solve the problem. Here's the TR4 owner's subsequent email: > > "I went straight to Foreign auto and picked up 4 containers of it. > Drained and > refilled with the MT-90. I just got back from the test drive before > the > downpour with GREAT results! No more issue with the OD. I'll bring the > 2 > containers to you ($11 each!) and the socket. I'll return tommorrow > morning > 10-11 am if that works with you? I love the transmission, remember > this is the > first time I drove a type A. Wonderful. " > > Now I'm not trying to start a long winded discussion here, and I'm > not > suggesting that we all run out and buy Redline MT90. I'm just > suggesting that, > in the event you have a newly rebuilt 'A' type that sticks in > overdrive, you > might consider changing the fluid. > > I'll report on how this "fix" works on the second transmission when > that owner > makes the change. > > And, by the way, this overdrive is developing 430 psi. > > Ed Woods > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From pethier at comcast.net Thu Aug 5 07:53:09 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 13:53:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] New lamps for old - Not Triumph but still automotive In-Reply-To: <1564600061.64527.1281016259153.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <904053176.64679.1281016389599.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > and when i left the country, at least in Liverpool, cabs where still > required by > law to carry a bucket of water and a small bail of hay in the > trunk. Your bucket may be a bail, but hay comes in a bale. :-) Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven SOLD 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From mcgaheyrx at aol.com Thu Aug 5 08:37:05 2010 From: mcgaheyrx at aol.com (mcgaheyrx at aol.com) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 14:37:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 Message-ID: <201008051437.o75Eb64Z007028@imr-ma04.mx.aol.com> MT 90 is GL4 and plays nice withyellow metals and synchros - have used it for years in my TR6 gearboxes following a similar experience with J-overdrive. Cheers, Jack Mc ---------- Sent from my Verizon Wireless mobile phone ------Original Message------ From: To: "Ed Woods" Cc: Date: Thu, Aug 5, 1:30 PM +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 How nicely does MT90 play with the synchros and diffent metals in the transmission? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven SOLD 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ed Woods" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, August 5, 2010 8:03:35 AM > Subject: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 > > List, > > After 40 years and countless 'A' type overdrives, I recently had two > that were > not releasing from overdrive. I spent a couple of hours with the owner > of one > of them and his TR4 this a.m. and determined that the o/d clutch was > sticking. > A light tap with a hammer would release it each and every time it hung > up. The > fluid in the unit was 30 wt, non-detergent from a local FLAPS. Having > read of > a similar experience on the Healey list, and not wanting to give up my > lead > hammer, I suggested that we try Redline MT90 as the Healey owner had > done to > solve the problem. Here's the TR4 owner's subsequent email: > > "I went straight to Foreign auto and picked up 4 containers of it. > Drained and > refilled with the MT-90. I just got back from the test drive before > the > downpour with GREAT results! No more issue with the OD. I'll bring the > 2 > containers to you ($11 each!) and the socket. I'll return tommorrow > morning > 10-11 am if that works with you? I love the transmission, remember > this is the > first time I drove a type A. Wonderful. " > > Now I'm not trying to start a long winded discussion here, and I'm > not > suggesting that we all run out and buy Redline MT90. I'm just > suggesting that, > in the event you have a newly rebuilt 'A' type that sticks in > overdrive, you > might consider changing the fluid. > > I'll report on how this "fix" works on the second transmission when > that owner > makes the change. > > And, by the way, this overdrive is developing 430 psi. > > Ed Woods > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 5 09:41:22 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 11:41:22 EDT Subject: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 Message-ID: <1f9b5.7e629f0c.398c35a2@cs.com> In a message dated 8/5/2010 8:57:00 AM Central Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > How nicely does MT90 play with the synchros and diffent metals in the > transmission? > I've been using MT90 in my TR6 for a decade with no issues. Dave From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Aug 5 13:30:17 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 15:30:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: <14c5c.2a3dae34.398c6b49@aol.com> Can anyone confirm that this is getting to the List? Darrell From wbeech at flash.net Thu Aug 5 14:18:25 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 14:18:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <14c5c.2a3dae34.398c6b49@aol.com> References: <14c5c.2a3dae34.398c6b49@aol.com> Message-ID: Got it here. Mobile Bill On Aug 5, 2010, at 1:30 PM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > Can anyone confirm that this is getting to the List? > Darrell > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Aug 5 14:31:33 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 16:31:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <14c5c.2a3dae34.398c6b49@aol.com> References: <14c5c.2a3dae34.398c6b49@aol.com> Message-ID: <06A24A75E7564F52944C236865F78687@BobPC> I got it and Mark posted earlier that there were some server problems Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 3:30 PM To: Subject: [TR] test > Can anyone confirm that this is getting to the List? > Darrell > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Aug 5 14:34:38 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 16:34:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <14c5c.2a3dae34.398c6b49@aol.com> References: <14c5c.2a3dae34.398c6b49@aol.com> Message-ID: <6B59883F9E2D483E9DBCD5D306D7349E@CarlPC> Yup. From tr6.guy at verizon.net Thu Aug 5 15:50:30 2010 From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 17:50:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4E8414CB29F24BB990BDA0B7F342AD4A@mommystoyii> Everyone, I, too used MT90 in my newly rebuilt J-Type but I took it out. I had a small problem with it in that it prevented the syncros from "bedding-in"; it's too slippery I guess. I've gone back to mineral 90wt GL4 until the syncros start working properly then I'll switch back to MT90. Gary '75 TR6 '80 TR8 Severn, MD Digest ------------- Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 14:37:05 +0000 From: "mcgaheyrx at aol.com" Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 To: "Ed Woods" , Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <201008051437.o75Eb64Z007028 at imr-ma04.mx.aol.com> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=UTF-8 MT 90 is GL4 and plays nice withyellow metals and synchros - have used it for years in my TR6 gearboxes following a similar experience with J-overdrive. Cheers, Jack Mc From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Aug 5 16:37:43 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 18:37:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Test/Thanks Message-ID: <1c27b.195be760.398c9737@aol.com> Hey Guys, Thanks I guess I am getting to the List now. I was sending a few posts/replies to posts via AOL that never appeared on my box so I had my doubts. OK never mind , please delete. Cheers, Darrell From mcgaheyrx at aol.com Thu Aug 5 17:00:15 2010 From: mcgaheyrx at aol.com (mcgaheyrx at aol.com) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 23:00:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 Message-ID: <201008052300.o75N0G5j031785@imr-da01.mx.aol.com> interesting i should specify mine was well broken in when i started using MT90 Cheers, Jack Mc ---------- Sent from my Verizon Wireless mobile phone ------Original Message------ From: Gary Klein To: Date: Thu, Aug 5, 5:50 PM -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 Everyone, I, too used MT90 in my newly rebuilt J-Type but I took it out. I had a small problem with it in that it prevented the syncros from "bedding-in"; it's too slippery I guess. I've gone back to mineral 90wt GL4 until the syncros start working properly then I'll switch back to MT90. Gary '75 TR6 '80 TR8 Severn, MD Digest ------------- Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 14:37:05 +0000 From: "mcgaheyrx at aol.com" Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 To: "Ed Woods" , Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <201008051437.o75Eb64Z007028 at imr-ma04.mx.aol.com> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=UTF-8 MT 90 is GL4 and plays nice withyellow metals and synchros - have used it for years in my TR6 gearboxes following a similar experience with J-overdrive. Cheers, Jack Mc _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Aug 5 18:20:09 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 19:20:09 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder and servo rebuild Message-ID: <769775881.1092026.1281054009292.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net> To the list, 1972 Triumph TR6. Have original brake master cylinder and servo. Noticed brake fluif coming out at the bottom of the master where it is bolted to the servo. Have cleaned and driven the car, it is a slow leak. Discussed with Randall, contacted TRF to see about Girling replacement. MC backordered, they have a replacement, but not Girling. Servo is a repro, the two about $485. Have reviewed the list on this topic, and it looks like Apple Hydraulics is the way to go. I would want a full rebuild of both (why not), and their website says both for $300. I have had carbs done by Paltech, came back and looked brand new. Had fuel pump rebuilt by TRF, came back and looked brand new. Had distributor rebuilt by Advanced Distributors, came back and looked brand new. You see where I am going here? Can someone on the list who has gone through this process with Apple confirm their work? From everything I read, they do a great job. Do they paint the servo? I would like some input from someone who has gone through this recently. I am not a rebuild kind of guy, but I have removed and reinstalled everything above. It appears to be fairly simple to remove both, plug the brake lines, drain the fluif, remove the plastic reservoir, ship them the whole thing, they return with the gaskets to reinstall the reservoir, bolt it back up, top off and bleed the brakes. Thanks in advance, Craig Vienna, VA From pcaffrey at ymail.com Thu Aug 5 18:44:44 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 17:44:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A Radiator Message-ID: <539191.69430.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Hi List, I need to replace the radiator in my TR4A. An original replacement is hard to find (not surprising). Also, I've heard that aluminum is the way to go. Does anyone have suggestions on replacement radiators for a TR4A? Thank you for any feedback. Pat TR4A '67 1CTC/72746-L From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Aug 5 19:16:32 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 21:16:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Radiator In-Reply-To: <539191.69430.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <539191.69430.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD031C2401E14A-2B48-64C0@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> If the top and bottom tanks are in good shape, consider finding a good radiator shop and having it recored? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: P Caffrey I need to replace the radiator in my TR4A. An original replacement is hard to find (not surprising). Also, I've heard that aluminum is the way to go. Does anyone have suggestions on replacement radiators for a TR4A? From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Thu Aug 5 19:23:49 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 21:23:49 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A Radiator Message-ID: <6c75f.6986fb0e.398cbe25@aol.com> Hi Pat; Is your radiator in such bad condition that it cannot be 're-cored'? I would recommend that route if possible. If your car is fitted with a starting handle, and therefore a hole in the radiator, have the radiator recored without the hole; you'll get lots more cooling capacity. I have a TR3A, so I don't know what year of TR4 had the starting handle hole, if any. I don't know of any sources to buy a radiator, assuming they are unavailable from Moss, etc., but one option might be to buy a used one and have it recored. I have heard great things about the aluminium radiators, however, I understand that frequent coolant changes/flushes are critical to any kind of longevity from them. Tim From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Thu Aug 5 19:27:28 2010 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 21:27:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder and servo rebuild In-Reply-To: <769775881.1092026.1281054009292.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net> References: <769775881.1092026.1281054009292.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <4B361437-F7A8-4928-BAFD-C404A7AA2E68@blakedischer.com> Hi Craig, Contact Ted Schumacher for rebuilt servo. Reasonable price for sure and good looking. But are you sure yours is bad? Leaking fluif doesn't mean servo is bad, means MC is bad. Servo info including how to test: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Servo/Servo.htm Cheers, Blake J. Discher Detroit, TR6 & Stag On Aug 5, 2010, at 8:20 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: To the list, 1972 Triumph TR6. Have original brake master cylinder and servo. Noticed brake fluif coming out at the bottom of the master where it is bolted to the servo. Have cleaned and driven the car, it is a slow leak. Discussed with Randall, contacted TRF to see about Girling replacement. MC backordered, they have a replacement, but not Girling. Servo is a repro, the two about $485. Have reviewed the list on this topic, and it looks like Apple Hydraulics is the way to go. I would want a full rebuild of both (why not), and their website says both for $300. I have had carbs done by Paltech, came back and looked brand new. Had fuel pump rebuilt by TRF, came back and looked brand new. Had distributor rebuilt by Advanced Distributors, came back and looked brand new. You see where I am going here? Can someone on the list who has gone through this process with Apple confirm their work? From everything I read, they do a great job. Do they paint the servo? I would like some input from someone who has gone through this recently. I am not a rebuild kind of guy, but I have removed and reinstalled everything above. It appears to be fairly simple to remove both, plug the brake lines, drain the fluif, remove the plastic reservoir, ship them the whole thing, they return with the gaskets to reinstall the reservoir, bolt it back up, top off and bleed the brakes. Thanks in advance, Craig Vienna, VA _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bdischer.lists at blakedischer.co m From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Aug 5 19:37:22 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 01:37:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] Sports Car Haven, Danville, PA - need photo.. Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C32477@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> On our way to the TRF summer party last week we were travelling on US/PA/Rt 11 in Danville, PA and passed a business called Sports Car Haven. They apparently sell and restore British sports car amongst other things. What caught our eye was their sign which is the side of a Topaz TR6 on top of a long pole. We deeply regret not turning around and taking a picture especially as we had a Topaz TR6 in our group but after two hours on 11 from Scranton our brains were addled and we just wanted to find open road.. If anyone lives near Danville or has passed through there before and has a photo of said sign could they please get in touch as I would like a copy for our club newsletter. Thanks, Stan From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 5 23:23:58 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 22:23:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Radiator In-Reply-To: <539191.69430.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <539191.69430.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <063f01cb3527$92b31e40$0301a8c0@randall> > Does > anyone have suggestions on replacement radiators for a TR4A? According to my radiator man, aluminum radiators aren't any more efficient than copper, and possibly even less so. That makes sense to me, since aluminum is both a poorer conductor of heat, and weaker than copper (hence needs to be thicker for the same strength). The main advantage of aluminum is cost. He recored my original TR3A radiator for me over 10 years ago, with a modern Modine core; and it is still going strong (now in the project TR3). Seems like the way to go, to me; assuming there is a standard core that will fit your TR4A frame. Randall From areich at telus.net Fri Aug 6 00:36:03 2010 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 23:36:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while Message-ID: <4C5BAD53.2090405@telus.net> On my 1960 TR3A, the front brakes squeal badly but only after they get really warmed up. During the first half hour of driving, they are quiet and effective. Is there a quick fix anyone can recommend? Allan Reich Vancouver 1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O) From mdporter at dfn.com Fri Aug 6 03:13:12 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2010 03:13:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A Radiator In-Reply-To: <063f01cb3527$92b31e40$0301a8c0@randall> References: <539191.69430.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <063f01cb3527$92b31e40$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4C5BD228.6000801@dfn.com> Randall wrote: >> Does >> anyone have suggestions on replacement radiators for a TR4A? >> > > According to my radiator man, aluminum radiators aren't any more efficient > than copper, and possibly even less so. That makes sense to me, since > aluminum is both a poorer conductor of heat, and weaker than copper (hence > needs to be thicker for the same strength). The main advantage of aluminum > is cost. > > I suspect that some of the cost advantage is lost in the additional sectional thicknesses required for aluminum. Copper radiators can be made in rather thin sections, and work better that way, just so long as they are designed in such a way that the thin sections don't work-harden and crack. (I recall seeing a design from a now-defunct company that made the core runners socket into rubberized receivers in the header and footer tanks, and that struck me as a good way to isolate the core from vibration and heat-cycle stresses.) There are two major considerations for material selection when it comes to heat exchange (apart from structural considerations). The first is the coefficient for heat transfer off the surface, and, second, the coefficient for heat transfer through the material. Off the surface, rusty cast iron is probably the best, but not so good through the material (this makes sense, given that the amount of surface area per square inch would be very high). Heat transfer through aluminum is very high on the list, if not the best of commonly available materials, but not very good off the surface (about one-quarter the value for rusty cast-iron and poorer than copper). That's probably why aluminum radiator cores seem to have an awful lot of fin area as compared to copper-cored radiators with similar heat rejection properties. Nevertheless, many heavy-duty diesel applications are going to aluminum radiators, because the major radiator manufacturers are claiming higher efficiencies because of improvements in fin-to-runner welding. M'self, I think they consume a bit more power getting air through them, but, the heat rejection tests I've seen show them to be comparable to older copper radiators. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 6 05:34:21 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 07:34:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while Message-ID: <2a225.4518b794.398d4d3d@cs.com> In a message dated 8/6/2010 1:57:16 AM Central Daylight Time, areich at telus.net writes: > On my 1960 TR3A, the front brakes squeal badly but only after they get > really warmed up. During the first half hour of driving, they are quiet > and effective. Is there a quick fix anyone can recommend? > Allan Reich > Vancouver > 1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O) First things first. Make sure the rotors are clean. You can spray them down with water or you can get a can of brake parts cleaner. If that doesn't fix it you can pull your pads and grind a chamfer on the leading edge. Are there shims available for this application? Ultimately, you can change pads to another material. Pad material can have an influence on whether they squeal or not. Dave From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 6 06:52:01 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 05:52:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 rad. Message-ID: <431250.29525.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List & Pat! I would go with the majority in saying to get the rad. record if the tanks are good, & I can't see why they wouldn't be good. IF your tanks are bad, then e-mail me because I have a TR4 rad. that has been stored away for about 40 yr. -Cosmo Kramer From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Aug 6 07:12:31 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 09:12:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while In-Reply-To: <2a225.4518b794.398d4d3d@cs.com> References: <2a225.4518b794.398d4d3d@cs.com> Message-ID: > "original message" My TR4 disc brakes will occassionally have a really annoying constant low level screech at moderate speeeds. It goes away when I apply the brakes but when I let up - the screech comes back. I haven't figured this one out yet, myself. Then it just goes away... For this my first guess is my anti squeal gunk has stopped working. Is this the kind of schreech you are getting or does it only happen when you apply the brakes? Does it get louder as you press harder? Any other details you can provide would be great. Chris From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Fri Aug 6 08:14:23 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 14:14:23 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while In-Reply-To: References: <2a225.4518b794.398d4d3d@cs.com> Message-ID: <769103.41240.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> I used to find that brake squeal on all my Triumphs over the years was usually a build-up of brake dust that didn't properly escape from between the pad and disc - and sometimes ineffective shims. If the problem was repetitive (and it often was) I found that using a hacksaw to cut two diagonal slots down to the backing plate on both pads so they vented at the top of the caliper cured the problem permanently. The last set of pads I bought were 'green stuff' that claimed not to tarnish the wheels with brake dust. It ticked that box but squealed so badly I threw them out and went back to the older type of asbestos-free pad. Jonmac From deruiterville at hotmail.com Fri Aug 6 09:55:50 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 10:55:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: A type overdrives and MT90 In-Reply-To: <90159D9735C54EF9894A259211C2DF94@Edscomputer> References: <90159D9735C54EF9894A259211C2DF94@Edscomputer> Message-ID: > Now I'm not trying to start a long winded discussion here, and I'm not > suggesting that we all run out and buy Redline MT90. I'm just suggesting that, > in the event you have a newly rebuilt 'A' type that sticks in overdrive, you > might consider changing the fluid. > > Ed- I had the exact same issue in my TR4 od last year - I had just put in a generic non-detergent 30 wt oil bought from a flaps. After just a few days, my od was having difficulty disengaging. In my case I switched to Valvoline VR1 20W50 and have had zero issues (though my next change I have MT90 to try out instead). This sounds like a potential lesson learned to stay away from generic 30 wt oils.. Randy 64 TR4 59 TR3A From kinneyjr at msn.com Fri Aug 6 10:03:13 2010 From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 12:03:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: I don't know what you are willing to spend, but TRF sells a new replacement for around $450. I just returned one (long story below) and they verified it arrived in saleable condition so if no one else has bought it, they should have one. Maybe it will speed up the refund to my credit card(!). The long story-my former radiator shop never tested my original radiator, confused me with someone else, and recommended a recore for a Toyota rad at the cost of $450. I compared aluminum and stock, which were about the same price, and went with the stock configuration from TRF for originality purposes. They had one in stock. When I went to get my "junk" radiator, I realized the shop's error, had them steam clean and pressure test it on the spot gratis, and took it home where I straightened all the fins and painted it with Eastwood's radiator paint. In the interests of full disclosure, the TRF radiator was never taken out of the crate by me, which appeared to be the one that it came in from England. Good luck, Jeremy ********************************* Message: 9 Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 17:44:44 -0700 (PDT) From: P Caffrey Subject: [TR] TR4A Radiator To: list Triumph Message-ID: <539191.69430.qm at web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi List, I need to replace the radiator in my TR4A. An original replacement is hard to find (not surprising). Also, I've heard that aluminum is the way to go. Does anyone have suggestions on replacement radiators for a TR4A? Thank you for any feedback. Pat TR4A '67 1CTC/72746-L From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 6 10:28:10 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 12:28:10 EDT Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while Message-ID: <19c02.2dabdb74.398d921a@cs.com> In a message dated 8/6/2010 8:27:52 AM Central Daylight Time, ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: > My TR4 disc brakes will occasionally have a really annoying constant low > level screech at moderate speeeds. It goes away when I apply the brakes > but > when I let up - the screech comes back. I haven't figured this one out > yet, > myself. Then it just goes away... For this my first guess is my anti > squeal gunk has stopped working. > In my experience that is the typical symptom of dirty rotors. Next time you wash your car hose off the rotors thoroughly and see if that helps. Hey, it's easy and cheap. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 6 11:26:21 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 10:26:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while In-Reply-To: <2a225.4518b794.398d4d3d@cs.com> References: <2a225.4518b794.398d4d3d@cs.com> Message-ID: <019b01cb358c$7d99dc00$78cd9400$@rr.com> > Are there shims available for this application? I don't have the part number handy, but my FLAPS carries "universal fit" shims that worked well for me when I had a problem on the TR. These are just rectangles of soft aluminum with adhesive on the back; cut them to shape with scissors (preferably the shop scissors, not your wife's good sewing scissors) and stick them on the back of the pads. They worked for me after most of the other standard solutions (including replacing the springs, deglazing the rotors, beveling the pads, goop on back of pads, goop on front of pads, etc.) had failed. -- Randall From markvaden at gmail.com Fri Aug 6 12:13:44 2010 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 11:13:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while In-Reply-To: <019b01cb358c$7d99dc00$78cd9400$@rr.com> References: <2a225.4518b794.398d4d3d@cs.com> <019b01cb358c$7d99dc00$78cd9400$@rr.com> Message-ID: I have also had good luck with "universal fit" shims. Really easy to add, and alot cheaper than new pads! -Mark On Fri, Aug 6, 2010 at 10:26 AM, Randall wrote: > > Are there shims available for this application? > > I don't have the part number handy, but my FLAPS carries "universal fit" > shims that worked well for me when I had a problem on the TR. These are > just rectangles of soft aluminum with adhesive on the back; cut them to > shape with scissors (preferably the shop scissors, not your wife's good > sewing scissors) and stick them on the back of the pads. > > They worked for me after most of the other standard solutions (including > replacing the springs, deglazing the rotors, beveling the pads, goop on > back > of pads, goop on front of pads, etc.) had failed. > > -- Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/markvaden at gmail.com > > -- Never miss a moment again... www.video-replay.com From pethier at comcast.net Fri Aug 6 13:19:47 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 19:19:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while In-Reply-To: <19c02.2dabdb74.398d921a@cs.com> Message-ID: <330652930.134508.1281122387870.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > In my experience that is the typical symptom of dirty rotors. Next > time > you wash your car hose off the rotors thoroughly and see if that > helps. Hey, > it's easy and cheap. > > Dave Then get out and drive it to dry them off with heat or they will rust. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven SOLD 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 6 14:47:23 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2010 16:47:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while In-Reply-To: <330652930.134508.1281122387870.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD03BFB4974699-10C8-2B19@webmail-d098.sysops.aol.com> > In my experience that is the typical symptom of dirty rotors. Next > time > you wash your car hose off the rotors thoroughly and see if that > helps. Hey, > it's easy and cheap. > > Dave Then get out and drive it to dry them off with heat or they will rust. They rust anyway. A few revolutions with the brakes applied will scrub it right off. If I leave my daily out over a wet weekend I get the same thing. Still works fine after 100,000 miles. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 6 14:57:24 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 13:57:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Radiator In-Reply-To: <4C5BD228.6000801@dfn.com> References: <539191.69430.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <063f01cb3527$92b31e40$0301a8c0@randall> <4C5BD228.6000801@dfn.com> Message-ID: <01cb01cb35a9$f93c87f0$ebb597d0$@rr.com> > Heat transfer through aluminum is > very high on the list, if not the best of commonly available materials, Except for copper, of course. Silver and gold also beat out aluminum, but of course no one is going to make a radiator out of them! Curiously enough, thermal conductivity pretty closely follows electrical conductivity (for metals), so the better electrical conductors are also better heat conductors. -- Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Aug 6 15:15:10 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 17:15:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] MT90 update Message-ID: <015518C71A134D48B4E3DA01B5C32792@Edscomputer> List, Replacement of the generic FLAPS 30 wt, non detergent oil with Redline MT90 solved the sticking o/d clutch problem on the second car, a TR3, just as it did on the TR4. Several Listers have responded to me off list expressing similar results. Ed Woods From agraham at execulink.com Fri Aug 6 15:26:41 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2010 17:26:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 clutch mc hard pipe. Message-ID: <4C5C7E11.3070905@execulink.com> Hello List: Trying to fit TR4 brake and clutch master cylinders to my TR2 project and have a couple of questions about the clutch mc hard pipe. Is this pipe a larger diameter (3/16" vs. 1/4") than the brake tubing or hard pipe? Also questioning the type and size of fitting on the clutch mc connecting the hard pipe. I assume it is a female fitting and wondering if they are available (without the whole pipe) anywhere? Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From pcaffrey at ymail.com Fri Aug 6 16:08:54 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 15:08:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A Radiator Message-ID: <245491.45817.qm@web59702.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> List, Thank you for the many replies concerning my radiator issue....The radiator is on its way to a shop for an assessment/estimate on a re-core. Apparently TRF has replacement radiators and aluminum ones are available at http://www.wizardcooling.com/ (link sent by a Lister)--both sell for $450....After reading Randall's latest post on this topic, I'm inclined to believe that aluminum is the way to go should I need a replacement. Another cooling issue discovered is a leaky water pump. I'll probably go with the uprated 6 vane pump sold through Moss. Thanks again, Pat TR4A '67 1CTC/72746-L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 6 18:43:03 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 17:43:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 clutch mc hard pipe. In-Reply-To: <4C5C7E11.3070905@execulink.com> References: <4C5C7E11.3070905@execulink.com> Message-ID: <000001cb35c9$7ee7cc10$7cb76430$@rr.com> > Trying to fit TR4 brake and clutch master cylinders to my TR2 project > and have a couple of questions about the clutch mc hard pipe. Is this > pipe a larger diameter (3/16" vs. 1/4") than the brake tubing or hard > pipe? I don't recall the crossover point, but the fitting on the MC did get one size larger at some point. > Also questioning the type and size of fitting on the clutch mc > connecting the hard pipe. I assume it is a female fitting and wondering > if they are available (without the whole pipe) anywhere? I believe so, but be sure you get the 'British' style. The proper nuts have a short unthreaded section at the tip, which can be seen at http://tinyurl.com/3xm2nbd (scroll down to the nuts) That link appears to be one source, but I was able to find them at my local auto parts store. -- Randall From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Aug 6 19:07:32 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 21:07:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 A/C Message-ID: I'm looking for the under dash portion of a TR6 A/C system. Needs to include the blower motor, evap core and duct work / housing. Electrical controls would be nice too. Don't need the compressor, condenser, dryer or lines. Write to me personally if you have these parts or know where I could obtain them. Thanks, JVV From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Aug 7 06:19:43 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 08:19:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] MT90 update In-Reply-To: <015518C71A134D48B4E3DA01B5C32792@Edscomputer> References: <015518C71A134D48B4E3DA01B5C32792@Edscomputer> Message-ID: Thanks Ed - sounds like I might need to try that. Not sure if my od problem is the same, though... Mine will on rare ocassion seem to disengage totally for a split second or so...resulting in a short decelleration followed by normal running again. At first I thought it was the engine cutting out but believe it is the OD. On Fri, Aug 6, 2010 at 5:15 PM, Ed Woods wrote: > > Replacement of the generic FLAPS 30 wt, non detergent oil with Redline MT90 > solved the sticking o/d clutch problem on the second car, a TR3, just as it > did on the TR4. From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Aug 7 09:09:12 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 15:09:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] One last Radiator question In-Reply-To: <245491.45817.qm@web59702.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1330653259.1117397.1281193752598.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I think the upshot of the recent thoughts comparing aluminum to copper radiators is that it is about a wash. There are more fins in the aluminum radiator to make up for the poorer surface heat exchange. Then someone else made the point that it would take more power to push the air through the fins. Question: if adopting an aluminum radiator, would the stock fan system be sufficient to suck the air through the radiator at idle, or would an electric fan conversion be pretty much necessary? ...Am wondering if the move of Macks, Petes and the like to aluminum might be cojoined to a simultaneous move to electric fans as an enabler? Thoughts? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From davidt at opentext.com Sat Aug 7 10:01:03 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 12:01:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: To see if blackberry email will work From mark at bradakis.com Sat Aug 7 10:30:26 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 10:30:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtops Message-ID: <4C5D8A22.7040906@bradakis.com> Contact the fellow below if interested. mjb. -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [Healeys] non- Healey Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 11:24:00 -0400 (EDT) From: fietts02 at aol.com To: healeys at autox.team.net I have 2 factory TR6 hardtops for sale if interested please contact off list. Ken From bielings at comcast.net Sat Aug 7 10:44:34 2010 From: bielings at comcast.net (bielings) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 16:44:34 -0000 Subject: [TR] valve springs Message-ID: <0D1D4A8CF29A4DBCBC17646BB0B3143E@bielings> Has anyone tried changing valve springs without taking the head off? From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sat Aug 7 11:17:33 2010 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 13:17:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help needed! Message-ID: Hi All, Not exactly Triumph oriented but British none the less. A member in our club in presently restoring (about 80% complete) a 1970 vintage British reproduction of a 1910 B-Type London Bus. We believe this to be the only one in the US and the only others are in museums in the UK. Needless to say, he has some difficulty in acquiring needed parts and sourcing information for the restoration. He is a retired journeyman machinist and makes many of the parts he needs. (He is not on the internet or have any of those new fangled contraptions......we're working on that) Unfortunately, when it comes to rubber parts it gets even harder. The good news is the few reproductions that were made, were made in the 70's. We are presently trying to source a rubber sleeve, grommet type part with the # P11-2803 that goes on the air cleaner for the engine. The engine is a 4 cylinder diesel Leyland (tractor engine we believe), vintage 1970. If anyone has any sources of information on this type engine and associated parts, please advise asap. For your enjoyment, I have attached a link so you can see what it is and looks like. This vehicle has quite a history and Classic Motorsports will be doing a piece on it. Additionally, I will be placing the restoration story, pictures and history on our club website in the near future. So if anyone wants to see this, just drop me an email. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:B43OleBillatIWMLondon.jpg Thanks in Advance, Alex Manzo 59 TR3A 72 TR6 From davidt at opentext.com Sat Aug 7 11:30:35 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 13:30:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dazed and confused - TR3a Message-ID: Afternoon all, So, in an effort to get the '3 started after getting it back from the ex, I have seemed to have hit a roadblock of sorts. She won't start :-( What have I done so far: - new battery :-) - engine turns over but no evidence of catching - there is voltage at the +ve side of the coil ( +ve earth still ). - replace the points and condensor - no broken wires inside the dizzy, checked for resistance - using another coil - pulled the plugs and while a little foil not too bad, cleaned and regapped - for fuel at the moment using a little quick start, just to see if she would catch. What is next? Could it be a bad cap and wires? How do you check? What else is there to look for? Thanks David Templeton '59tr3a - won't start - leaning over her to hope inspiration strikes :-) '74 spitsix - need gearbox to start. From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 7 12:39:45 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 12:39:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] valve springs In-Reply-To: <0D1D4A8CF29A4DBCBC17646BB0B3143E@bielings> References: <0D1D4A8CF29A4DBCBC17646BB0B3143E@bielings> Message-ID: Yes, you use your compressor to pressurize the combustion chamber and thus keep the valves in place while you R&R the springs. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bielings Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 12:22 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] valve springs Has anyone tried changing valve springs without taking the head off? _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Aug 7 12:41:52 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 14:41:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] valve springs References: <0D1D4A8CF29A4DBCBC17646BB0B3143E@bielings> Message-ID: <1487EBB6FA8F47DEA24A3A18E28D87A8@userb38463fba5> Yes, but I assume you are asking how to do it. There are 2 methods that I've used. One is to jam rope through the spark plug hole and then move the piston as far up in the bore as you can to keep the valves from dropping. It works. The second method is to use compressed air to keep the valves closed. Buy a fitting that threads into the spark plug hole and pressurize the cylinder. The piston will drop to it's lowest point and if you break the valve seal you'll drop the valve into the cylinder. It's almost impossible to avoid the piston dropping due to air pressure especially if you are doing this alone. Maybe someone can stand on the brakes to keep the car from moving, I've not tried that. I was successful doing it both ways. The rope way is the safest in my opinion. Best wishes JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "bielings" To: Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 3:21 AM Subject: [TR] valve springs > Has anyone tried changing valve springs without taking the head off? > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 7 12:53:30 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 12:53:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Dazed and confused - TR3a In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0C8EBB1B28EB4373AF3E98AF5F784C51@bboffice> David, -I presume you are seeing wet plugs so you are sure the problem is not on the fuel side.(bad/old gas don't burn too well) -Have you held the plugs out and grounded them to the side of the engine while cranking to see if there is a spark there?(try a new set anyway as they might look OK but not be firing under compression) -With the ignition on and the dizzy cap off, open and close the points to be sure you have spark across at that point? -A good here is also to be sure the points are fully closing/opening when the dizzy is turning. Not a comprehensive list but it seems you have replaced everything else. Are you sure the 2nd coil you are using is good? Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 11:31 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Dazed and confused - TR3a Afternoon all, So, in an effort to get the '3 started after getting it back from the ex, I have seemed to have hit a roadblock of sorts. She won't start :-( What have I done so far: - new battery :-) - engine turns over but no evidence of catching - there is voltage at the +ve side of the coil ( +ve earth still ). - replace the points and condensor - no broken wires inside the dizzy, checked for resistance - using another coil - pulled the plugs and while a little foil not too bad, cleaned and regapped - for fuel at the moment using a little quick start, just to see if she would catch. What is next? Could it be a bad cap and wires? How do you check? What else is there to look for? Thanks David Templeton '59tr3a - won't start - leaning over her to hope inspiration strikes :-) '74 spitsix - need gearbox to start. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Aug 7 12:56:24 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 13:56:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Dazed_and_confused_-_TR3a?= Message-ID: <20100807185522.6137A187649@autox.team.net> Well, I never HAVE figured out how to get women started dependably, but I would stop staring at her points. Go to a jewelry store or lingerie. Perfume is chancy but small being works as well as anything. Hope that helps...... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "David Templeton" Date: Sat, Aug 7, 2010 12:30 Subject: [TR] Dazed and confused - TR3a To: Afternoon all, So, in an effort to get the '3 started after getting it back from the ex, I have seemed to have hit a roadblock of sorts. She won't start :-( What have I done so far: - new battery :-) - engine turns over but no evidence of catching - there is voltage at the +ve side of the coil ( +ve earth still ). - replace the points and condensor - no broken wires inside the dizzy, checked for resistance - using another coil - pulled the plugs and while a little foil not too bad, cleaned and regapped - for fuel at the moment using a little quick start, just to see if she would catch. What is next? Could it be a bad cap and wires? How do you check? What else is there to look for? Thanks David Templeton '59tr3a - won't start - leaning over her to hope inspiration strikes :-) '74 spitsix - need gearbox to start. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 7 13:03:06 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 12:03:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Help needed! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <088501cb3663$2b52f3f0$0301a8c0@randall> > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:B43OleBillatIWMLondon.jpg Cool project, Alex! Please add me to the notification list. Sorry I can't help with the grommet, except to note that "Castable Polyurethane" can be had in about the same stiffness as rubber. I've not tried it yet, but I believe you can add some carbon black to get a color approximating classic rubber, and it shouldn't be too hard to make a mold for something as simple as a grommet. This popped up in a quick search: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300452512756 Even though the ad says "rubber", if you zoom in on the photo, the bottles say "urethane". Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 7 13:04:16 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 12:04:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] valve springs In-Reply-To: <0D1D4A8CF29A4DBCBC17646BB0B3143E@bielings> References: <0D1D4A8CF29A4DBCBC17646BB0B3143E@bielings> Message-ID: <088601cb3663$5572a4f0$0301a8c0@randall> > Has anyone tried changing valve springs without taking the head off? No, but I've removed and replaced the valve springs without removing the head. Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Aug 7 13:10:57 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 15:10:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] One last Radiator question References: <1330653259.1117397.1281193752598.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <27E26DAB54D14055A40893F14A239BF5@DCS78M81> Terry, I don't think that a new radiator by itself will allow a TR3 to not overheat in many situations (but maybe not New Hampshire). In Florida I've had to add electric pushers to both TR3's and the TR4 (1962) with the mechanical fan with four blades. There are six bladed fans around which have a much better pitch and 2/3's more blades ;^) than the original ones. When I redid "my" TR3 four years ago I opted to do away with the mechanical fan and added a puller, it works great. On the "new" TR3 that I just finished all was good with everything stock until the weather got over ninety and there was stop and go traffic. The stock fan will never move enough air through any radiator to provide adequate cooling in "adverse conditions". Two weeks ago I added a pusher fan with relay and a manual switch - an old once speed wiper switch - mounted just over my right knee to the dash support. I turn it on when the temp has reached 185 and the needle just stays there. I do have the shroud in place and the fan (11 inch I think) takes up all the exposed area of the radiator. I think it works well. If it hadn't, I'd be pulling the cowling and probably trying a six blade fan. A buddy, also in Central Florida, replaced his four blade with the yellow TR6 fan a few years ago and is REALLY happy with that result. He had 3/16 " removed from the front and rear of the extension, thereby gaining 3/8" of room and mounted the fan front facing as on the TR6. He says it sucks up leaves when they are on the driveway...and I have a yellow fan --just in case. But so far in 96+ degree muggy, high humidity Florida, I'm fine with what I've done. Again, I think that in certain parts of the world the stock would be adequate. I've also noticed that the horizontal plate of the cowling blocks off the portion of the radiator below the crank hole - another poor design and wasted space, no matter what the material of the radiator is made from...just my two cents worth.....(a lot of words for two cents ;^) ) Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "list Triumph" Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 11:09 AM Subject: [TR] One last Radiator question >I think the upshot of the recent thoughts comparing aluminum to copper >radiators is that it is about a wash. There are more fins in the aluminum >radiator to make up for the poorer surface heat exchange. Then someone >else made the point that it would take more power to push the air through >the fins. > > Question: if adopting an aluminum radiator, would the stock fan system be > sufficient to suck the air through the radiator at idle, or would an > electric fan conversion be pretty much necessary? ...Am wondering if the > move of Macks, Petes and the like to aluminum might be cojoined to a > simultaneous move to electric fans as an enabler? > > Thoughts? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 > New Hampshire From davidt at opentext.com Sat Aug 7 13:32:14 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 15:32:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dazed and confused - TR3a In-Reply-To: <0C8EBB1B28EB4373AF3E98AF5F784C51@bboffice> Message-ID: Ok to update... - used a spark tester on the end of the spark wire - no spark - so this is the problem. - as for fuel right now, starter fluid. :-P David From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Aug 7 13:43:44 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 12:43:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] One last Radiator question In-Reply-To: <1330653259.1117397.1281193752598.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1330653259.1117397.1281193752598.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <110853.1774.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> while on the question of electric fans. has any one found a nice twin fan assembly that fits the TR3 radiator. im thinking of going to the junk yard with a tape measure, but if one of you has figured it already it may save me an afternoon of fun. Frank ________________________________ From: "terryrs at comcast.net" To: list Triumph Sent: Sat, August 7, 2010 8:09:12 AM Subject: [TR] One last Radiator question I think the upshot of the recent thoughts comparing aluminum to copper radiators is that it is about a wash. There are more fins in the aluminum radiator to make up for the poorer surface heat exchange. Then someone else made the point that it would take more power to push the air through the fins. Question: if adopting an aluminum radiator, would the stock fan system be sufficient to suck the air through the radiator at idle, or would an electric fan conversion be pretty much necessary? ...Am wondering if the move of Macks, Petes and the like to aluminum might be cojoined to a simultaneous move to electric fans as an enabler? Thoughts? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Aug 7 13:53:03 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 12:53:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] windshield removal TR6 Message-ID: <728080.38105.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> trying to remove the windshield from a 73 TR6. have removed all the bolts from across the top of the dash removed the nuts from the bottom of the stanchions. the windshield is now movable if we push it back and forth, but 2 grown strong men (not me) cannot pull it up and out. have we missed a fastener? is there a trick? or are we just stuck on a little rust in the stanchion tubes and need a persuader tool? thanks Frank From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sat Aug 7 14:50:08 2010 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 13:50:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 A/C In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <240554.93649.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Jerry- The parts you need are available here. http://www.britishac.com/ Chad in Tulsa ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 21:07:32 -0400 From: "Jerry Van Vlack" Subject: [TR] TR6 A/C To: Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I'm looking for the under dash portion of a TR6 A/C system. Needs to include the blower motor, evap core and duct work / housing. Electrical controls would be nice too. Don't need the compressor, condenser, dryer or lines. Write to me personally if you have these parts or know where I could obtain them. Thanks, JVV From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Sat Aug 7 15:03:24 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 21:03:24 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Help needed! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <601178.60785.qm@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Alex Having spent most of my career (after leaving Standard-Triumph) in the European tractor industry, parts supply for the Leyland tractor is still good in the UK and many of those suppliers ship overseas. Please advise your friend that the following UK companies can probably supply or locate the needed part and indeed any others he might later require. I note he's a bit cyber-challenged so you may have to do the searching for him? www.sparex.com www.charnleys.com www.vapormatic.co.uk Usual disclaimer about NFI but my first ports of call would be Sparex and Vapormatic. Both companies have been in the non-genuine agri-parts business for decades and always used to offer an excellent service and keen pricing (by UK standards). I always used them for my little grey Fergie when I had it. Good luck Jonmac ________________________________ From: Alex To: *Six Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>; *Triumphs List Sent: Sat, 7 August, 2010 18:17:33 Subject: [TR] Help needed! Hi All, Not exactly Triumph oriented but British none the less. A member in our club in presently restoring (about 80% complete) a 1970 vintage British reproduction of a 1910 B-Type London Bus. We believe this to be the only one in the US and the only others are in museums in the UK. Needless to say, he has some difficulty in acquiring needed parts and sourcing information for the restoration. He is a retired journeyman machinist and makes many of the parts he needs. (He is not on the internet or have any of those new fangled contraptions......we're working on that) Unfortunately, when it comes to rubber parts it gets even harder. The good news is the few reproductions that were made, were made in the 70's. We are presently trying to source a rubber sleeve, grommet type part with the # P11-2803 that goes on the air cleaner for the engine. The engine is a 4 cylinder diesel Leyland (tractor engine we believe), vintage 1970. If anyone has any sources of information on this type engine and associated parts, please advise asap. For your enjoyment, I have attached a link so you can see what it is and looks like. This vehicle has quite a history and Classic Motorsports will be doing a piece on it. Additionally, I will be placing the restoration story, pictures and history on our club website in the near future. So if anyone wants to see this, just drop me an email. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:B43OleBillatIWMLondon.jpg Thanks in Advance, Alex Manzo 59 TR3A 72 TR6 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Aug 7 15:44:13 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 17:44:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] One last Radiator question References: <1330653259.1117397.1281193752598.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <110853.1774.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Wow, Frank, they'd have to be REALLY small. I had forgotten how small went I pulled the grill off the 3 last week to add an electric pusher. I had one from my other 3 and one on the TR4 that's down for a rebuild. The one on the 4 is a 12" and really too larger for a three with the shroud in place. The one I used is 10 or 11" I don't remember and when you measure the brackets it was in between. So a twin fan that's less than 11" in length or width would be rather small in my opinion. Also, with the lower bracket and cowling in place the lower part of the radiator is not accessible for a pusher. Now if you were thinking "puller" that could be a possibility. The side braces of the radiator are just braces with no water flow so you could use that width if you were pulling the fan extension and the mechanical fan. Hope this helps Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: Cc: Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 3:43 PM Subject: Re: [TR] One last Radiator question > while on the question of electric fans. has any one found a nice twin fan > assembly that fits the TR3 radiator. > im thinking of going to the junk yard > with a tape measure, but if one of you has > figured it already it may save me > an afternoon of fun. > Frank From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Aug 7 15:52:45 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 17:52:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while In-Reply-To: <4C5BAD53.2090405@telus.net> References: <4C5BAD53.2090405@telus.net> Message-ID: <201008071752.46384.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday, August 06, 2010 02:36:03 am Allan Reich wrote: > On my 1960 TR3A, the front brakes squeal badly but only after they get > really warmed up. During the first half hour of driving, they are quiet > and effective. Is there a quick fix anyone can recommend? > Allan Reich > Vancouver > 1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O) > Allan, I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a seized piston from time to time. So I took off the caliper and replaced the pistons with SS ones from TRF with new seals etc. and so far 2 seasons, no problems. When your break starts to squeal, stop and take a temp check of the rotor. Be careful, if it is a seized piston the rotor will be very hot! Bob From tr6parts at charter.net Sat Aug 7 17:19:38 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 19:19:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] One last Radiator question References: <1330653259.1117397.1281193752598.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <27E26DAB54D14055A40893F14A239BF5@DCS78M81> Message-ID: If the yellow fan works that good, just think of the possiblities of the red TR6 fan with 13 blades. :) Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "THOMAS FANSHER" To: ; "list Triumph" Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 3:10 PM Subject: Re: [TR] One last Radiator question > Terry, I don't think that a new radiator by itself will allow a TR3 to not > overheat in many situations (but maybe not New Hampshire). In Florida I've > had to add electric pushers to both TR3's and the TR4 (1962) with the > mechanical fan with four blades. There are six bladed fans around which > have a much better pitch and 2/3's more blades ;^) than the original ones. > When I redid "my" TR3 four years ago I opted to do away with the > mechanical fan and added a puller, it works great. On the "new" TR3 that I > just finished all was good with everything stock until the weather got > over ninety and there was stop and go traffic. The stock fan will never > move enough air through any radiator to provide adequate cooling in > "adverse conditions". Two weeks ago I added a pusher fan with relay and a > manual switch - an old once speed wiper switch - mounted just over my > right knee to the dash support. I turn it on when the temp has reached 185 > and the needle just stays there. I do have the shroud in place and the fan > (11 inch I think) takes up all the exposed area of the radiator. I think > it works well. If it hadn't, I'd be pulling the cowling and probably > trying a six blade fan. A buddy, also in Central Florida, replaced his > four blade with the yellow TR6 fan a few years ago and is REALLY happy > with that result. He had 3/16 " removed from the front and rear of the > extension, thereby gaining 3/8" of room and mounted the fan front facing > as on the TR6. He says it sucks up leaves when they are on the > driveway...and I have a yellow fan --just in case. But so far in 96+ > degree muggy, high humidity Florida, I'm fine with what I've done. Again, > I think that in certain parts of the world the stock would be adequate. > I've also noticed that the horizontal plate of the cowling blocks off the > portion of the radiator below the crank hole - another poor design and > wasted space, no matter what the material of the radiator is made > from...just my two cents worth.....(a lot of words for two cents ;^) ) > Tom > 60 TR3A > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 73 Stag > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: "list Triumph" > Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 11:09 AM > Subject: [TR] One last Radiator question > > >>I think the upshot of the recent thoughts comparing aluminum to copper >>radiators is that it is about a wash. There are more fins in the aluminum >>radiator to make up for the poorer surface heat exchange. Then someone >>else made the point that it would take more power to push the air through >>the fins. >> >> Question: if adopting an aluminum radiator, would the stock fan system >> be sufficient to suck the air through the radiator at idle, or would an >> electric fan conversion be pretty much necessary? ...Am wondering if the >> move of Macks, Petes and the like to aluminum might be cojoined to a >> simultaneous move to electric fans as an enabler? >> >> Thoughts? >> >> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 >> New Hampshire > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From jmitch at snet.net Sat Aug 7 18:16:31 2010 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 20:16:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] windshield removal TR6 In-Reply-To: <728080.38105.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <728080.38105.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C5DF75F.6060009@snet.net> It helps to loosen the bolts that hold the bracket that the windshield posts fit into. Without loosening them, it's impossible for the brackets to line up enough for the stanchions to slide out. Also. some PB blaster or other lubricant on the post will help. You can also put a nut on the stanchion and give each side a wrap with a hammer to get things moving. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag Frank Fisher wrote: > trying to remove the windshield from a 73 TR6. > have removed all the bolts from > across the top of the dash > removed the nuts from the bottom of the stanchions. > the windshield is now movable if we push it back and forth, but 2 grown strong > men (not me) cannot pull it up and out. > have we missed a fastener? > is there a > trick? > or are we just stuck on a little rust in the stanchion tubes and need a > persuader tool? > thanks > Frank > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net From dave at ranteer.com Sat Aug 7 16:41:17 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 17:41:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while In-Reply-To: <201008071752.46384.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <4C5BAD53.2090405@telus.net> <201008071752.46384.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <3D3C743ED8CE4B878780E0174E52DA2B@ranteer.local> I'm going to sidetrack here a bit - on my tr6 the front brakes chirp, not squeal, and as soon as I apply the brakes, even a little, it goes away. anyone? these are upgraded pads; I upgraded the rears with morgan pistons - they are a drop in replacement and a bit bigger diameter. we had to upgrade the pads up front to balance them. oh, and my mechanic did this, and I apologize - I have no idea what those "upgraded" pads are. perhaps a placebo?????? From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Aug 7 20:05:47 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 22:05:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] windshield removal TR6 In-Reply-To: <728080.38105.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <728080.38105.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Frank........... make sure you aren't trying to pull it straight up. It comes out at an angle like this / Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 running with Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Frank Fisher" Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 3:53 PM To: Subject: [TR] windshield removal TR6 > trying to remove the windshield from a 73 TR6. > have removed all the bolts from > across the top of the dash > removed the nuts from the bottom of the stanchions. > the windshield is now movable if we push it back and forth, but 2 grown > strong > men (not me) cannot pull it up and out. > have we missed a fastener? > is there a > trick? > or are we just stuck on a little rust in the stanchion tubes and need a > persuader tool? > thanks > Frank > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Aug 7 22:31:48 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 21:31:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dazed and confused - TR3a In-Reply-To: References: <0C8EBB1B28EB4373AF3E98AF5F784C51@bboffice> Message-ID: On 8/7/10, David Templeton wrote: > Ok to update... > > - used a spark tester on the end of the spark wire - no spark... You said you replaced the points... I would double check that you got that little 3-layer cake of connections and insulators back together in correct sequence. If you get it in the wrong order you will ground the ignition and get bupkus. If you do not know what I am referring to or are unclear how that connection (where the points are attached with the little black wire -- say so and I can explain further. Geo From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 8 06:38:21 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 08:38:21 EDT Subject: [TR] windshield removal TR6 Message-ID: <6d9a8.396e0ae1.398fff3d@cs.com> In a message dated 8/7/2010 3:36:37 PM Central Daylight Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > trying to remove the windshield from a 73 TR6. > have removed all the bolts from > across the top of the dash > removed the nuts from the bottom of the stanchions. > the windshield is now movable if we push it back and forth, but 2 grown > strong > men (not me) cannot pull it up and out. > have we missed a fastener? > is there a > trick? > or are we just stuck on a little rust in the stanchion tubes and need a > persuader tool? > Probably not rust but paint. I think that in their haste they assembled these whilst the paint was still soft. The two times I have done this I have had to completely remove the fixing bolts for the stantion receivers and twist them to free them up. This usually invloves removing the glove box and the dash vent tubes and maybe some other stuff to gain switng room. Good luck. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 8 06:49:18 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 08:49:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while Message-ID: <6de94.1063bbd7.399001ce@cs.com> In a message dated 8/7/2010 8:49:17 PM Central Daylight Time, dave at ranteer.com writes: > I'm going to sidetrack here a bit - on my tr6 the front brakes chirp, not > > squeal, and as soon as I apply the brakes, even a little, it goes away. > I'd start with cleaning the rotors. Hit them with a hose or get some brake cleaner. Dave From eoot at citlink.net Sun Aug 8 08:27:11 2010 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 10:27:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Timing Cover Seal Message-ID: <7040C6A51DD9466EAA9DD9D8DE3746B5@WANDERER> Can someone confirm which direction a modern seal goes in the timing chain cover. Is it correct that the sealing surface with the spring goes toward the engine. TIA From davidt at opentext.com Sun Aug 8 10:51:05 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 12:51:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] She goes, she goes!!!!!!!! Message-ID: Woohooo, thanks to Geo, the points connection was stacked wrong!!! Corrected and she fired on starter fluif on the first 1/8 second of the starter. {Imagine big guy dancing around, yeap one the strange neighbour guys! :-)} Again, great to be not lurking on the list again and dying to get back into the world of real driving Thank you, thank you!!!! David Templeton '59 Tr3a - alive again '74 spitsix From mark at bradakis.com Sun Aug 8 11:23:39 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 11:23:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] Timing Cover Seal In-Reply-To: <7040C6A51DD9466EAA9DD9D8DE3746B5@WANDERER> References: <7040C6A51DD9466EAA9DD9D8DE3746B5@WANDERER> Message-ID: <4C5EE81B.9040507@bradakis.com> Ed Oot wrote: > Can someone confirm which direction a modern seal goes in the timing chain > cover. Is it correct that the sealing surface with the spring goes toward the > engine. > Yes. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Sun Aug 8 11:24:43 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 11:24:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] She goes, she goes!!!!!!!! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C5EE85B.4060702@bradakis.com> Great! Wish I was close to having a Triumph of some sort running and on the road again. mjb. From jdemuth at ties2.net Sun Aug 8 14:37:50 2010 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 15:37:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Replacing Fans on A TR3 Message-ID: <2D684E83-B047-4ECB-A677-A1D265F7D298@ties2.net> What am I missing. The manuals all talk about the whole fan assembly being factory balanced. All this talk of replacing a TR3 fan with a TR6 fan, shortened noses, etc. seems to imply that the balancing issue is not a problem. ?? From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Aug 8 14:54:37 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 16:54:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 Message-ID: <6064CC8BE6F5407AB19CF00A0B7DE0A4@Edscomputer> List, Ever since its restoration many years and thousands of miles ago, my brother's '76 TR6 has made a "clunk" when changing direction as in backing up, then going forward or going forward, then backing up. We have examined the diff mounts, replaced all universals on the drive shaft and half shafts, pulled the half shaft apart and greased them, etc. etc. We're about to change the diff, even though neither of us believes the diff to be the problem. In other words, we're down to grasping at straws. This morning we made a new observaton which is why I'm appealing to the List for insight or solution. If the E brake is on while we attempt to move the car forward or backward, there is no evidence of this "clunk". It occurs only if the car moves, however slightly. I would assume this evidence eliminates the driveshaft, diff, and half shafts as the cause of the problem. Does the List agree? Then, what's left? Brakes? Wheels? Ed Woods From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sun Aug 8 15:16:57 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 17:16:57 EDT Subject: [TR] One last Radiator question Message-ID: <8e14a.5052466f.399078c9@aol.com> If only there was a conversion kit to fit the 13-blade fan to the TR3.....I have recently learned that it won't fit. Tim From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 8 15:22:54 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 14:22:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replacing Fans on A TR3 In-Reply-To: <2D684E83-B047-4ECB-A677-A1D265F7D298@ties2.net> References: <2D684E83-B047-4ECB-A677-A1D265F7D298@ties2.net> Message-ID: <0a3101cb373f$dd9e0860$0301a8c0@randall> > What am I missing. The manuals all talk about the whole fan assembly > being factory balanced. All this talk of replacing a TR3 fan with a > TR6 fan, shortened noses, etc. seems to imply that the balancing > issue is not a problem. ?? It was the heavy, metal fan itself that needed to be balanced (in some cases anyway, mine seemed to be OK without any weights). The motor is still balanced without it; and presumably the lightweight plastic fans (and fan extension) do not need to be separately balanced. But if you want to balance the assembly, by all means go ahead. Randall From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Aug 8 15:22:54 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 17:22:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] One last Radiator question References: <8e14a.5052466f.399078c9@aol.com> Message-ID: <5AD989EC93CA4F259EC20E809D7A61F2@Alan> It should work with the tr6 fan adapter hub. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com To: tr6parts at charter.net ; tfansher at comcast.net ; terryrs at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 5:16 PM Subject: Re: [TR] One last Radiator question If only there was a conversion kit to fit the 13-blade fan to the TR3.....I have recently learned that it won't fit. Tim From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sun Aug 8 15:37:24 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 17:37:24 EDT Subject: [TR] Replacing Fans on A TR3 Message-ID: <8ee28.7d08fa31.39907d94@aol.com> Correct, under normal circumstances. Balancing of the TR3 fan, to prevent vibration, becomes an issue at high engine RPM's, as in "when racing", but is not an issue in normal road use. Tim From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sun Aug 8 15:39:25 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 17:39:25 EDT Subject: [TR] One last Radiator question Message-ID: <8ef5b.2970f69b.39907e0d@aol.com> I'm just not sure there's room for it all; it's a much tighter squeeze in there for the standard fan than on a TR6, so I would have some concerns that using the adapter hub might create too little clearance. I'm not sure if that is the definitive answer to "why it can't be done", but I suspect it might be. Tim From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Aug 8 15:49:50 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 17:49:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 In-Reply-To: <6064CC8BE6F5407AB19CF00A0B7DE0A4@Edscomputer> References: <6064CC8BE6F5407AB19CF00A0B7DE0A4@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <125D2762BB2A4615AAB92D347A9D33C3@BobPC> Ed, Can you better describe your inspection of the diff mounts for cracks. It doesn't take much of a crack to cause the dreaded clunk sound and it isn't always very visible. I had the clunk and couldn't find any cracks until I took a wire brush to the mount and really cleaned it up. Even then, what I saw surprised me that it was considered a crack as it looked more like a thin line in the mount. There's a couple of pictures about 1/2 way down this page http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffMounts.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ed Woods" Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 4:54 PM To: Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 > List, > > Ever since its restoration many years and thousands of miles ago, my > brother's > '76 TR6 has made a "clunk" when changing direction as in backing up, then > going forward or going forward, then backing up. > > We have examined the diff mounts, replaced all universals on the drive > shaft > and half shafts, pulled the half shaft apart and greased them, etc. etc. > We're > about to change the diff, even though neither of us believes the diff to > be > the problem. In other words, we're down to grasping at straws. > > This morning we made a new observaton which is why I'm appealing to the > List > for insight or solution. > > If the E brake is on while we attempt to move the car forward or backward, > there is no evidence of this "clunk". It occurs only if the car moves, > however > slightly. > > I would assume this evidence eliminates the driveshaft, diff, and half > shafts > as the cause of the problem. > > Does the List agree? > > Then, what's left? Brakes? Wheels? > > Ed Woods > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Aug 8 16:23:08 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 18:23:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 References: <6064CC8BE6F5407AB19CF00A0B7DE0A4@Edscomputer> <125D2762BB2A4615AAB92D347A9D33C3@BobPC> Message-ID: <2E78BBA6830846C8AC5DF2A9F8D18B58@Edscomputer> Bob, We inspected the frame and diff mount pins when we rebuilt the car and installed all the reinforcing parts in this area as well. And wouldn't a cracked diff mount make the "clunk" even with the E brake on and the car not moving? I would think that the mounts would shift as torque was reversed even if the wheels were locked. With the wheels locked, we get no "clunk". Ed From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Aug 8 16:53:21 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 18:53:21 EDT Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 Message-ID: <9f6d0.765b5450.39908f61@cs.com> In a message dated 8/8/2010 5:50:12 PM Central Daylight Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: > We inspected the frame and diff mount pins when we rebuilt the car and > installed all the reinforcing parts in this area as well. > > And wouldn't a cracked diff mount make the "clunk" even with the E brake > on > and the car not moving? I would think that the mounts would shift as > torque > was reversed even if the wheels were locked. > > With the wheels locked, we get no "clunk". > Check your lug nuts. Check your front suspension. Check your brake pads and shoes. Dave From davidt at opentext.com Sun Aug 8 18:16:44 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 20:16:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph world sticker thingies :-) Message-ID: Evening all, In way back time :-), ok 6yrs ago, someone had got made up triumph world stickers for the mailing list, and I sort of remember also they had ones that could be used on wheel centres. Anyone still source these or has other ideas? Now the reason for doing this is I have now a set of tr6 rims for the '3a and I am hoping to 'cover' the '6 emblem ( sorry '6 owners :-) ). Thanks David Templeton '3a - she runs, nuff said From jmitch at snet.net Sun Aug 8 19:46:59 2010 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 21:46:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 In-Reply-To: <6064CC8BE6F5407AB19CF00A0B7DE0A4@Edscomputer> References: <6064CC8BE6F5407AB19CF00A0B7DE0A4@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <4C5F5E13.8000709@snet.net> Make sure the rear shocks are bolted up and torqued to spec. A loose shock has cause the same clunk on mine in the past. John Mitchell 76 TR6 Ed Woods wrote: > List, > > Ever since its restoration many years and thousands of miles ago, my brother's > '76 TR6 has made a "clunk" when changing direction as in backing up, then > going forward or going forward, then backing up. > > We have examined the diff mounts, replaced all universals on the drive shaft > and half shafts, pulled the half shaft apart and greased them, etc. etc. We're > about to change the diff, even though neither of us believes the diff to be > the problem. In other words, we're down to grasping at straws. > > This morning we made a new observaton which is why I'm appealing to the List > for insight or solution. > > If the E brake is on while we attempt to move the car forward or backward, > there is no evidence of this "clunk". It occurs only if the car moves, however > slightly. > > I would assume this evidence eliminates the driveshaft, diff, and half shafts > as the cause of the problem. > > Does the List agree? > > Then, what's left? Brakes? Wheels? > > Ed Woods > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Aug 8 20:10:50 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:10:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph world sticker thingies :-) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 8/8/10, David Templeton wrote: > Evening all, > > In way back time :-), ok 6yrs ago, someone had got made up triumph world > stickers for the mailing list, You're probably thinking of Joe Curry (he of the fluif) and hopefully he will respond. FWIW, I made some wheel centers using some old nave plate medallions. These can often be found pretty cheaply if they're the later type and need paint. They can be easily repainted: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Centre%20Cap.JPG Geo From zoboherald at aol.com Sun Aug 8 21:13:29 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 23:13:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 In-Reply-To: <6064CC8BE6F5407AB19CF00A0B7DE0A4@Edscomputer> References: <6064CC8BE6F5407AB19CF00A0B7DE0A4@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <8CD0587F9A83E79-2144-1EA67@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> One other slim possibility is that the brake backing plate is loose? Happened to me on a Spitfire.... --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Ed Woods If the E brake is on while we attempt to move the car forward or backward, there is no evidence of this "clunk". It occurs only if the car moves, however slightly. I would assume this evidence eliminates the driveshaft, diff, and half shafts as the cause of the problem. From spitlist at cox.net Sun Aug 8 22:48:54 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 21:48:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph world sticker thingies :-) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <85286555801A4DC79B071F6EBF0EE6E4@joepentiumnew> David, I am the culprit and still have a bunch of the decals in both static cling (for the inside of glass) and sticky-back (for everywhere else). Anyone who wants to order one or more can send me a stamped self addressed envelope and $3.00 for each one you want. Be sure to indicate your preference. Regards, Joe Curry 1707 W. Placita Del Zocalo Sahuarita, AZ 85629 P.S. See this link for details on the wheelcaps and other decals I have. http://members.cox.net/spitlist/centercaps.html -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 5:17 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Triumph world sticker thingies :-) Evening all, In way back time :-), ok 6yrs ago, someone had got made up triumph world stickers for the mailing list, and I sort of remember also they had ones that could be used on wheel centres. Anyone still source these or has other ideas? Now the reason for doing this is I have now a set of tr6 rims for the '3a and I am hoping to 'cover' the '6 emblem ( sorry '6 owners :-) ). Thanks David Templeton '3a - she runs, nuff said _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From areich at telus.net Mon Aug 9 00:16:56 2010 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 23:16:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Squealing front brakes on TR3 after running for a while Message-ID: <4C5F9D58.2090902@telus.net> Well, I really washed the car well on Friday, especially the wire wheels, sprayed in lots of "Fantastic" cleaner. Then took the car to a show about 40 miles away, in the pouring rain, drove a little on Saturday afternoon, then back home Saturday evening and not a peep! It could be they were too wet to squeak, but I think the cleaning did it! Thanks for all the advice Allan Reich 1960 Triumph TR3A From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Aug 9 06:52:10 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 08:52:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 Message-ID: <8369a.2256ae63.399153fa@aol.com> In a message dated 8/8/2010 5:20:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: Ever since its restoration many years and thousands of miles ago, my brother's '76 TR6 has made a "clunk" when changing direction as in backing up, then going forward or going forward, then backing up. ED, My 71 Six does the same thing even though I have replaced, checked and repaired every component like you have. I replaced the diff and both rear hubs as well with no effect on the dreaded clunk!!!!! My 250 did it too. I will have to try the e brake teat on the Six. The 250 is still in pieces presently. Frustrating Huh? Darrell From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 9 05:44:09 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 04:44:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 or IRS ends Message-ID: <348948.7697.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 16:54:37 -0400 From: "Ed Woods" Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 To: List, Ever since its restoration many years and thousands of miles ago, ... We have examined the diff mounts, replaced all universals on the drive shaft and half shafts, pulled the half shaft apart and greased them, etc. etc. We're about to change the diff, even though neither of us believes the diff to be the problem. In other words, we're down to grasping at straws. This morning we made a new observaton which is why I'm appealing to the List for insight or solution. If the E brake is on while we attempt to move the car forward or backward, there is no evidence of this "clunk". It occurs only if the car moves, however slightly. I would assume this evidence eliminates the driveshaft, diff, and half shafts as the cause of the problem. Does the List agree? Then, what's left? Brakes? Wheels? Ed Woods ------------------------------------------ Hi Ed & list! PLEASE keep me informed on ALL the Info that you have received on this subject, because I'm having the same problem. I'm at the point where you are in wanting to switch differantials, too. But I haven't tried the handbrake test yet. thanks for the input. > Then, what's left? Brakes? It could be a brake shoe spring retanior being to loose? But? How do you check that with the wheel & drum on? > Wheels? I'm thinking of rebuilding the hubs, but I've heard on the list that there are CV joint 1/2 shafts that are better. Now if I decide to get these, then do you know if they come with new HUBS? I'd hate to rebuild the hubs to find out that it was a waist of time because the CV units come complete with new hubs. Do you know anything about these CV units & who or where to get them? Again, I'm VERY concerned & interested on this thread. -Cosmo Kramer From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 9 07:10:33 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 06:10:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] looking for Standard Performance. Message-ID: <302856.18384.qm@web51602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List! I purchased an Electronic Distributor unit from Standard Performance back in 1-23-09. I wanted to speak with Bennett French. I tried to reach him at: Standard Performance 700 Ray Ave. Suite C Hendersonville, NC 28792 828-692-5665 The phone has been disconnected. I tried calling 411 for information on getting the new phone #, but was told that there was no listing for that business. Can anyone help me out in how I can reach this business? I do NOT have an e-mail address for them. -Cosmo Kramer From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Aug 9 08:33:41 2010 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 10:33:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 In-Reply-To: <8369a.2256ae63.399153fa@aol.com> References: <8369a.2256ae63.399153fa@aol.com> Message-ID: <187E0DA0C15640EFB3824CBC69D38BD2@AlexPC> Common problem with my 72' TR6. I ignore it until I have time to crawl under and tighten down the lever shock bolts. Problem instantly goes away. Maybe this time I will add some thread lock. My restoration used about 95% of the original bolts. We all know what happens to the threads in old bolts. Alex 72 TR6 59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 8:52 AM Subject: Re: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 > In a message dated 8/8/2010 5:20:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: > > Ever since its restoration many years and thousands of miles ago, my > brother's > '76 TR6 has made a "clunk" when changing direction as in backing up, then > going forward or going forward, then backing up. > > > ED, > My 71 Six does the same thing even though I have replaced, checked and > repaired every component like you have. I replaced the diff and both rear > hubs > as well with no effect on the dreaded clunk!!!!! My 250 did it too. I > will have to try the e brake teat on the Six. The 250 is still in pieces > presently. > Frustrating Huh? > Darrell From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Mon Aug 9 08:56:32 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 10:56:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 or IRS ends In-Reply-To: <348948.7697.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <348948.7697.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438B979FC56D@CMS01.winhosting.local> Is there any chance that the flimsy cross-member that holds half of the diff mounts has come partially free from where it is welded to the frame? That can be hard to spot as the metal just separates and leaves what looks like a joint, but is just held in place by weight. I had to solve that one. Normally would not be eliminated by use of emergency brake, but who knows. A full break there would hammer from the shock-absorber action (assuming you are still set up with the Armstrongs), but I mention it as a "grasping at straws" thought. Otherwise, one wonders if the hub bearings are stiff/shot and the clunk is actually the sound of them breaking free. Do the wheel rims get excessively warm when driving? Mark ________________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer [tr4a2712 at yahoo.com] Sent: August 9, 2010 7:44 AM To: Ed Woods Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 or IRS ends Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 16:54:37 -0400 From: "Ed Woods" Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 To: List, Ever since its restoration many years and thousands of miles ago, ... We have examined the diff mounts, replaced all universals on the drive shaft and half shafts, pulled the half shaft apart and greased them, etc. etc. We're about to change the diff, even though neither of us believes the diff to be the problem. In other words, we're down to grasping at straws. This morning we made a new observaton which is why I'm appealing to the List for insight or solution. If the E brake is on while we attempt to move the car forward or backward, there is no evidence of this "clunk". It occurs only if the car moves, however slightly. I would assume this evidence eliminates the driveshaft, diff, and half shafts as the cause of the problem. Does the List agree? Then, what's left? Brakes? Wheels? Ed Woods ------------------------------------------ Hi Ed & list! PLEASE keep me informed on ALL the Info that you have received on this subject, because I'm having the same problem. I'm at the point where you are in wanting to switch differantials, too. But I haven't tried the handbrake test yet. thanks for the input. > Then, what's left? Brakes? It could be a brake shoe spring retanior being to loose? But? How do you check that with the wheel & drum on? > Wheels? I'm thinking of rebuilding the hubs, but I've heard on the list that there are CV joint 1/2 shafts that are better. Now if I decide to get these, then do you know if they come with new HUBS? I'd hate to rebuild the hubs to find out that it was a waist of time because the CV units come complete with new hubs. Do you know anything about these CV units & who or where to get them? Again, I'm VERY concerned & interested on this thread. -Cosmo Kramer From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Mon Aug 9 09:48:06 2010 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 17:48:06 +0200 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 References: <6064CC8BE6F5407AB19CF00A0B7DE0A4@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <525CD4FD1E614B4694FFD77D47E43FE6@Study> I've had this with my 4A a couple of times over the years. Rear shock absorber bolts can do this as can a brake shoe not being quite tucked up properly inside the drums. FWIW I'd take the rear wheels off and have a go at both these before getting to diff mounts and diffs. Also those rubber pads that you bolt up the diff with can compress after many years and give a clonk. David Brister, 1967 TR4A (Thankfully clonk free.at the moment!) -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 10889 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From jmerone at rocketmail.com Mon Aug 9 09:51:11 2010 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 08:51:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? Message-ID: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Greetings. A few years ago I replaced my original AC fuel pump - as a precautionary measure - with an aftermarket one. It was 30+ years old - and bound to die soon right? Only after that did I hear that the quality of these pumps (the ones without the primer levers) were suspect, so I decided to carry around the old pump in the boot. Good thing, as the "new" one died Friday night on the way to the Hemmings Sports and Exotic Show in Saratoga. After 90 minutes on the side of the road in the dark - we were off again with the old one installed and pumping along doing its job. One lesson however - make sure you have at least one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag. I think you can take a complete TR6 apart with one. The rest of the weekend went fine with great weather and a decent car show on Saturday followed by a trip to the Saratoga Race Track on Sunday. There was no winning at either event however. Now - I obviously need to order another pump. Both TRF and Moss are selling aftermarket units, albeit at widely different prices - TRF ($99), Moss ($50). They both look similar, and the design includes the primer. Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about either? Thanks, Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 5-speed From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Aug 9 10:14:49 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2010 11:14:49 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? Message-ID: <13903759.856704.1281370489620.JavaMail.root@vms074.mailsrvcs.net> Have TRF rebuild your AC unit, they did mine for $99, and it came back looking and working as brand new. Craig 72 Triumph TR6 On Aug 9, 2010, Joe Merone wrote: Greetings. A few years ago I replaced my original AC fuel pump - as a precautionary measure - with an aftermarket one. It was 30+ years old - and bound to die soon right? Only after that did I hear that the quality of these pumps (the ones without the primer levers) were suspect, so I decided to carry around the old pump in the boot. Good thing, as the "new" one died Friday night on the way to the Hemmings Sports and Exotic Show in Saratoga. After 90 minutes on the side of the road in the dark - we were off again with the old one installed and pumping along doing its job. One lesson however - make sure you have at least one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag. I think you can take a complete TR6 apart with one. The rest of the weekend went fine with great weather and a decent car show on Saturday followed by a trip to the Saratoga Race Track on Sunday. There was no winning at either event however. Now - I obviously need to order another pump. Both TRF and Moss are selling aftermarket units, albeit at widely different prices - TRF ($99), Moss ($50). They both look similar, and the design includes the primer. Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about either? Thanks, Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 5-speed _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Aug 9 11:04:42 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 13:04:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? In-Reply-To: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 9 Aug 2010, Joe Merone wrote: > Greetings. [stuff deleted] > pumping along doing its job. One lesson however - make sure you have at least > one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag. I think you can take a complete TR6 > apart with one. You need a 9/16" wrench too. :-) rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 9 11:04:48 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 10:04:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? In-Reply-To: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0ae401cb37e4$f99bce80$0301a8c0@randall> > Now - I obviously need to order another pump. Why not get the kit and rebuild your original? It's not that difficult, and cheaper to boot. Randall From agraham at execulink.com Mon Aug 9 12:12:22 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2010 14:12:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - Source for 3/4" alternator pulley. Message-ID: <4C604506.4090708@execulink.com> Hello List: Following a GM alternator conversion on my '2, used the original pulley machined to fit. Still having some belt problems and and a smaller, stock GM diameter (2.5" - 2.6") pulley would solve this. Recall seeing a source for a new billet 3/4" x 2.5" pulley to fit the GM alternator. Anyone recall a source for this pulley? Have done a search, but nothing seems to turn up. Maybe I'm dreaming about this. A trip to my local machine shop to have one made up in order? Thanks for any help with this Angelo Graham From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Aug 9 12:39:39 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 14:39:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? In-Reply-To: References: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <006901cb37f2$39b7c7f0$ad2757d0$@net> Didn't forget the 5/8th Craig -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert M. Lang Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 1:05 PM To: Joe Merone Cc: Triumph List; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? On Mon, 9 Aug 2010, Joe Merone wrote: > Greetings. [stuff deleted] > pumping along doing its job. One lesson however - make sure you have at least > one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag. I think you can take a complete TR6 > apart with one. You need a 9/16" wrench too. :-) rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wensley_tr at comcast.net From eoot at citlink.net Mon Aug 9 13:18:39 2010 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 15:18:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? References: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Joe, I recently replaced a Canadian made after market pump (that failed) with the Moss pump. So far so good. I also found that in my boxes of loot from the PO was the original AC pump. I am rebuilding that. The challenge is getting the old valves out and the new ones installed. The originals are peened in (not sure of the correct term), but you need to dremel (this is a verb right) them off to even up the edges prior to attempting the change. If someone else has a better method I'm sure they will chime in. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Merone" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph List" Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 11:51 AM Subject: [TR] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? > Greetings. > > A few years ago I replaced my original AC fuel pump - as a precautionary > measure - with an aftermarket one. It was 30+ years old - and bound to > die > soon right? > > Only after that did I hear that the quality of these pumps (the ones > without > the primer levers) were suspect, so I decided to carry around the old pump > in > the boot. Good thing, as the "new" one died Friday night on the way to > the > Hemmings Sports and Exotic Show in Saratoga. After 90 minutes on the side > of > the road in the dark - we were off again with the old one installed and > pumping along doing its job. One lesson however - make sure you have at > least > one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag. I think you can take a complete > TR6 > apart with one. > > The rest of the weekend went fine with great weather and a decent car show > on > Saturday followed by a trip to the Saratoga Race Track on Sunday. There > was > no winning at either event however. > > Now - I obviously need to order another pump. Both TRF and Moss are > selling > aftermarket units, albeit at widely different prices - TRF ($99), Moss > ($50). > They both look similar, and the design includes the primer. Does anyone > have > anything good or bad to say about either? > > Thanks, > > Joe Merone > South Burlington, VT > CF18928 > 5-speed > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net > > > > > > ======= > Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. > (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.15610) > http://www.pctools.com/ > ======= ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.15610) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From tafisher15 at comcast.net Mon Aug 9 13:45:43 2010 From: tafisher15 at comcast.net (Todd Fisher) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 15:45:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Standard Performance In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8B0A552C55264F2DADD8C05A87A803EB@ToddPC> Cosmo, Try him at thebritishconnection at yahoo.com. I spoke to him several months ago and he was closing his repair business but opening another with some colleagues. If that doesn't work let me know. Todd Fisher CC27069 Message: 4 Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 06:10:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Cosmo Kramer Subject: [TR] looking for Standard Performance. To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <302856.18384.qm at web51602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi List! I purchased an Electronic Distributor unit from Standard Performance back in 1-23-09. I wanted to speak with Bennett French. I tried to reach him at: Standard Performance 700 Ray Ave. Suite C Hendersonville, NC 28792 828-692-5665 The phone has been disconnected. I tried calling 411 for information on getting the new phone #, but was told that there was no listing for that business. Can anyone help me out in how I can reach this business? I do NOT have an e-mail address for them. -Cosmo Kramer ******* From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Aug 9 16:51:30 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2010 15:51:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? References: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001b01cb3815$68e44490$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Hi Joe, Previous owner installed the "Made in Italy" lever pump that I believe is the one TRF sells. I don't have the install date however the pump has been fine for 3 years of my driving. Regards, Bob. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Merone" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph List" Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 8:51 AM Subject: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? > Greetings. > > A few years ago I replaced my original AC fuel pump - as a precautionary > measure - with an aftermarket one. It was 30+ years old - and bound to die > soon right? > > Only after that did I hear that the quality of these pumps (the ones without > the primer levers) were suspect, so I decided to carry around the old pump in > the boot. Good thing, as the "new" one died Friday night on the way to the > Hemmings Sports and Exotic Show in Saratoga. After 90 minutes on the side of > the road in the dark - we were off again with the old one installed and > pumping along doing its job. One lesson however - make sure you have at least > one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag. I think you can take a complete TR6 > apart with one. > > The rest of the weekend went fine with great weather and a decent car show on > Saturday followed by a trip to the Saratoga Race Track on Sunday. There was > no winning at either event however. > > Now - I obviously need to order another pump. Both TRF and Moss are selling > aftermarket units, albeit at widely different prices - TRF ($99), Moss ($50). > They both look similar, and the design includes the primer. Does anyone have > anything good or bad to say about either? > > Thanks, > > Joe Merone > South Burlington, VT > CF18928 > 5-speed > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.14880 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14880 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 9 14:07:36 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 13:07:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - Source for 3/4" alternator pulley. In-Reply-To: <4C604506.4090708@execulink.com> References: <4C604506.4090708@execulink.com> Message-ID: <628538.79178.qm@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Angelo this solves your pully problem. but it may give you alignment adjustments good luck Frank http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120387267754&vi ewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT ________________________________ From: Angelo Graham To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, August 9, 2010 11:12:22 AM Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - Source for 3/4" alternator pulley. Hello List: Following a GM alternator conversion on my '2, used the original pulley machined to fit. Still having some belt problems and and a smaller, stock GM diameter (2.5" - 2.6") pulley would solve this. Recall seeing a source for a new billet 3/4" x 2.5" pulley to fit the GM alternator. Anyone recall a source for this pulley? Have done a search, but nothing seems to turn up. Maybe I'm dreaming about this. A trip to my local machine shop to have one made up in order? Thanks for any help with this Angelo Graham _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Aug 9 14:07:42 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 16:07:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - Source for 3/4" alternator pulley. In-Reply-To: <4C604506.4090708@execulink.com> References: <4C604506.4090708@execulink.com> Message-ID: http://www.alternatorparts.com/Alternator_brackets_2.htm I bought the A203 and it worked just great. On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 2:12 PM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello List: > Following a GM alternator conversion on my '2, used the original pulley > machined to fit. Still having some belt problems and and a smaller, stock GM > diameter (2.5" - 2.6") pulley would solve this. > Recall seeing a source for a new billet 3/4" x 2.5" pulley to fit the GM > alternator. Anyone recall a source for this pulley? Have done a search, but > nothing seems to turn up. Maybe I'm dreaming about this. > A trip to my local machine shop to have one made up in order? > Thanks for any help with this > Angelo Graham From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Mon Aug 9 14:30:04 2010 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 16:30:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2D412814-DB94-42DB-935F-D85E3E80C737@mgcarclub.com> One thing that has not yet been mentioned-- the splined slip joint on the driveshaft. Difficult to detect because splines at either end of the travel will have little to no wear, but someplace in the normal driving position there can be enough wear to "clunk" like a bad u-joint. Allen From jdabars at att.net Mon Aug 9 15:37:58 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 14:37:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] rear axles, CV joints Message-ID: <287297.14150.qm@web83715.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Go to web search goodparts.com LOTS of goodies for OUR kind of "bugies" NOT cheep for the rear----close to $2,000. I also put in his recommended jap diff.---more $$$$s but what the hell--You do it only once. Have a 76 TR-6 with Vette LT2 motor and auto box, Miata seats, Moss rear tube shock conversion---the ones with triangulation attachment plates. Have not driven yet as still no rim/ tyre combination determined. Have 15x5 super lite rims also four 2 piece alloy rims---2 each 15x6 for front and 2 each 15x7 for back. OK you 'GURUS", what combination of Verdensteen tires and various combination of rims should I consider/put on this modified Triumph? Do NOT want to flare fenders. Motor installation was accompished without cutting/buggering the body, all looks stock with the exception of LARGE diameter exhaust pipes and Borla mufflers---what a rumble when you step on the gas---Like I sed---have not driven it cause of the rim/tire question. Thanks for your input. I am crazy? but what the hell you do it once and forget your expensive errors. Some one told me---should have bought a Vette ---to run with the big dogs. John, Indianapolis, Indiana, USA "Racing Capital of the World". From rawanderer at comcast.net Mon Aug 9 15:58:02 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 17:58:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? In-Reply-To: <001b01cb3815$68e44490$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <20100809215710.3DED518766A@autox.team.net> Hi Joe, FWIW, my 1974 TR6 came with a fuel pump w/o the priming lever. No problems with it in the 38 months I've owned it (with over 17,000 miles driven in that time). Of course, now that I've said that.... Regards, BobW Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philly) -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Monday, 09 August, 2010 6:52 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; Triumph List Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? Hi Joe, Previous owner installed the "Made in Italy" lever pump that I believe is the one TRF sells. I don't have the install date however the pump has been fine for 3 years of my driving. Regards, Bob. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Merone" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph List" Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 8:51 AM Subject: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? > Greetings. > > A few years ago I replaced my original AC fuel pump - as a precautionary > measure - with an aftermarket one. It was 30+ years old - and bound to die > soon right? > > Only after that did I hear that the quality of these pumps (the ones without > the primer levers) were suspect, so I decided to carry around the old pump in > the boot. Good thing, as the "new" one died Friday night on the way to the > Hemmings Sports and Exotic Show in Saratoga. After 90 minutes on the side of > the road in the dark - we were off again with the old one installed and > pumping along doing its job. One lesson however - make sure you have at least > one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag. I think you can take a complete TR6 > apart with one. > > The rest of the weekend went fine with great weather and a decent car show on > Saturday followed by a trip to the Saratoga Race Track on Sunday. There was > no winning at either event however. > > Now - I obviously need to order another pump. Both TRF and Moss are selling > aftermarket units, albeit at widely different prices - TRF ($99), Moss ($50). > They both look similar, and the design includes the primer. Does anyone have > anything good or bad to say about either? > > Thanks, > > Joe Merone > South Burlington, VT > CF18928 > 5-speed > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.14880 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14880 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rawanderer at comcast.net From lisa at josephvincelli.com Mon Aug 9 18:12:19 2010 From: lisa at josephvincelli.com (Lisa Vincelli) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 20:12:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Weight of TR 3 Rear Axel? Message-ID: Hey team who knows all... Mostly I listen to what is being said by the wise, now I have a question of you. I have a fellow in England who would like me to weigh a spare rear axel i have to see how much shipping will be. Beings that it is still attached to one of my donor cars it would take to time and money just to find out. Does anyone know? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 9 19:06:03 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 18:06:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Weight of TR 3 Rear Axel? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03e201cb3828$3500c000$9f024000$@rr.com> > I have a fellow in England who would > like me to > weigh a spare rear axel i have to see how much shipping will be. I don't know the answer, but those things are heavy! Surely shipping will be more than it's worth. -- Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Aug 9 19:42:10 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2010 20:42:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Weight_of_TR_3_Rear_Axel=3F?= Message-ID: <20100810014110.417FE187674@autox.team.net> Shipping parts that heavy to the UK is cost prohibitive. You are looking at over nine Benjamins for something like that. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Randall" Date: Mon, Aug 9, 2010 20:06 Subject: [TR] Weight of TR 3 Rear Axel? To: > I have a fellow in England who would > like me to > weigh a spare rear axel i have to see how much shipping will be. I don't know the answer, but those things are heavy! Surely shipping will be more than it's worth. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Aug 10 05:42:16 2010 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 07:42:16 -0400 Subject: Trivia alert…Triumph in advertising Message-ID: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> We were shopping at our local Costco (a large bulk item store for those of you who arent familiar with the name) and as I passed by a row of GPS devices, something caught my eye. I glanced back and sure enough, on a poster board about three foot square, with a Tom-Tom GPS attached to the top of it, was a large photo of an early white MK4 Spitfire on a country road. A full three quarter back right side shot, about two feet long. I of course shrieked to my wife, HEY DEAR, LOOK which caused a few people to suddenly look over to see what I was apparently so excited about. They probably thought I was excited about the GPS  but we all know what I was really looking at!! My wife of course noticed that it was occupied by two girls, silly me for not noticing It was pretty cool Barry and Rosanne San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 10 06:47:33 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 05:47:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? Message-ID: <449588.13909.qm@web51607.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi list & Joe! From: Joe Merone Subject: TR6 fuel pump recommendations? Greetings. Now - I obviously need to order another pump. Both TRF and Moss are selling aftermarket units, albeit at widely different prices - TRF ($99), Moss ($50). They both look similar, and the design includes the primer. Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about either? I agree with Randall in rebuilding the aftermarket used Fuel Pump (FP). While you are ordering the rebuilding kit, I would strongly recommend you purchasing 3 kits. 1- to rebuild the bad one, & two to be kept in the car. Reason: If you're on a road trip, & you have to switch FP, then when you arrive at your destination that night, you can rebuild the FP, & now you have a spare FP as well as another 'back up rebuilding kit' in case you have problems the next day or again. If you don't do that & you DO have problems the next day or again sometime on the trip, then Your going to have to have a kit sent to you over night (more expensive that the purchase of two rebuilding kits), stay a day longer to be able to receive the kit & rebuild the FP, Plus the added cost of sleeping somewhere that night (weather it be camping or a motel), & it just might be your luck that in that town is some big happening so motel costs will be high at that time (like the Iowa State Fair, that happened to me). Believe me when I say that I've been there & done that. I don't own a TR6, but a 4 cyl. wet sleeve engine. TIP: I have rebuilt the FP while still in the car. So that's an option instead of having to deal with that one nut of the FP that's closest to the bulkhead. -Cosmo Kramer From jkallaus at hotmail.com Tue Aug 10 07:25:08 2010 From: jkallaus at hotmail.com (John Kallaus) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 08:25:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - Source for 3/4" alternator pulley. In-Reply-To: References: <4C604506.4090708@execulink.com>, Message-ID: No sense reinventing the wheel. A GM school bus chassis uses the same 7/8" wide belt as a TR2/3. Go down to your local alternator rebuild shop and ask for either part number 1214P or 201-01005. The pulley will bolt directly onto an older (1990 or older) GM alternator. The pulley costs $20 and no machining is required. Our local farm fleet chain (Mills Fleet Farm) sells rebuilt alternators for $20 plus a $5 core fee. For less than $50 you can have a rebuilt alternator with the correct pulley that will bolt-up right onto a TR2/3 engine. If you are really lucky you might even be able to get a used pulley at a junk yard or an alternator rebuild shop for only a couple of dollars. > From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com > Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 16:07:42 -0400 > To: agraham at execulink.com > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - Source for 3/4" alternator pulley. > > http://www.alternatorparts.com/Alternator_brackets_2.htm > > I bought the A203 and it worked just great. > > On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 2:12 PM, Angelo Graham wrote: > > > Hello List: > > Following a GM alternator conversion on my '2, used the original pulley > > machined to fit. Still having some belt problems and and a smaller, stock GM > > diameter (2.5" - 2.6") pulley would solve this. > > Recall seeing a source for a new billet 3/4" x 2.5" pulley to fit the GM > > alternator. Anyone recall a source for this pulley? Have done a search, but > > nothing seems to turn up. Maybe I'm dreaming about this. > > A trip to my local machine shop to have one made up in order? > > Thanks for any help with this > > Angelo Graham > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jkallaus at hotmail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 10 07:32:27 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 06:32:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? In-Reply-To: <449588.13909.qm@web51607.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <449588.13909.qm@web51607.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0c7401cb3890$7a2f5700$0301a8c0@randall> > TIP: I have rebuilt the FP while still in the car. So that's > an option instead > of having to deal with that one nut of the FP that's closest to the > bulkhead. OTOH, if you have this tool, that nut is easy to deal with (on a TR2-4A, I don't know how tight that area is on a TR6). http://www.jmwagnersales.com/fpit.html However, while on the road, I find it better to carry one of the little rectangular Facet electric pump, some rubber fuel line, a few clamps, and some "clip leads" (test leads with alligator clips on each end). This can be easily pressed into service in an emergency; will fit any LBC (in case you need to help a friend along the road); and is useful for other things like transferring fuel from one car to another (in case of leaks, etc.) In fact, I wished I had it with me just the other day, as a co-worker's motorcycle got knocked over in the parking lot and began leaking fuel. Randall From blanoway at shaw.ca Tue Aug 10 08:02:44 2010 From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 09:02:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 Message-ID: I still have the same clunk in my TR6 with a variation - despite after replacing and fixing everything possible under my rear suspension. I have new trailing arm bushes, TRF rebuilt half shafts with new well-lubed splines, new U-Joint bearings all around, new shocks with tight shock mounts, rebuilt brakes, heli-coiled trailing arm studs, new differential rubber mounts and welded/reinforced diff mount brackets, etc, etc. I did have a diff mount with a hard-to-see crack and fixing/reinforcing that did make a difference but that #$%^& clunk is still there. Other than a wholesale diff swap-out, I dont have anything else I can replace. It must be like a rapidly mutating virus because my clunk has this variation. It best occurs when the car is on a slight incline (my driveway). It only occurs when the car is in gear and the ebrake is off. When stopped, you can push up and down on a rear corner of the car as if you were testing a shock absorber and I then create a clunk so loud and apparent, that the hub wheel on that side almost seems to visibly chatter. Using a stethoscope, the clunk seems loudest from inside the diff itself and diminishes as you go through the rest of the system with your scope. If the car is on flat terrain and out of gear (but with ebrake on) I cant replicate the same clunk/chatter. I would love it if other TR6 owners tried this test on their TRs to see can replicate this chatter. When driving, the clunk re-appears (you can actually feel it in the seat of your pants) when you go over a very hilly grass field at slow speed - a type of location where you often have a show and shine. It seems to get worse and louder when you do this after a long hot drive. Ive been lately assuming that something is binding at slow speeds in my diff when the rear suspension goes through high amplitude oscillations - and have learned to live with it since it only occurs occasionally. I would love a List Diagnosis on this as well. Cheers, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg, Canada On Sunday, August 8, Ed Woods wrote: List, Ever since its restoration many years and thousands of miles ago, my brother's '76 TR6 has made a "clunk" when changing direction as in backing up, then going forward or going forward, then backing up. We have examined the diff mounts, replaced all universals on the drive shaft and half shafts, pulled the half shaft apart and greased them, etc. etc. We're about to change the diff, even though neither of us believes the diff to be the problem. In other words, we're down to grasping at straws. This morning we made a new observaton which is why I'm appealing to the List for insight or solution. If the E brake is on while we attempt to move the car forward or backward, there is no evidence of this "clunk". It occurs only if the car moves, however slightly. I would assume this evidence eliminates the driveshaft, diff, and half shafts as the cause of the problem. Does the List agree? Then, what's left? Brakes? Wheels? Ed Woods From blambert at socal.rr.com Tue Aug 10 09:11:17 2010 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 08:11:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? In-Reply-To: <0c7401cb3890$7a2f5700$0301a8c0@randall> References: <449588.13909.qm@web51607.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <0c7401cb3890$7a2f5700$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <170542A9E5CF43B69A702460C399263C@Lambert1> I'll second that recommendation concerning the tools shown on Justin's site. I took Justin's advice, purchased the appropriate bits, and have been glad any time I've had to mess with a TR3-4 fuel pump. Thanks Justin! Dennis > OTOH, if you have this tool, that nut is easy to deal with (on a TR2-4A, I > don't know how tight that area is on a TR6). > > http://www.jmwagnersales.com/fpit.html > > However, while on the road, I find it better to carry one of the little > rectangular Facet electric pump, some rubber fuel line, a few clamps, and > some "clip leads" (test leads with alligator clips on each end). This can > be easily pressed into service in an emergency; will fit any LBC (in case > you need to help a friend along the road); and is useful for other things > like transferring fuel from one car to another (in case of leaks, etc.) From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Aug 10 11:08:59 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 10:08:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] =?windows-1252?q?Trivia_alert=85Triumph_in_advertising?= In-Reply-To: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> Message-ID: On 8/10/10, v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote: > We were shopping at our local Costco... I glanced back and sure enough, on a > poster board about three foot square, with a Tom-Tom GPS attached to the > top of it, was a large photo of an early white MK4 Spitfire on a country > road. A full three quarter back right side shot, about two feet long... You might ask a store manager if you can have the sign when they are done with it (if you want such a thing in the garage, say). I have a big Nabisco cookie sign that featured a white TR3A that was a store display. In that case it was my wife that did the asking (she gets what she wants) the guy took the display apart and gave her the sign on the spot. Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Aug 10 11:25:35 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 10:25:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 fuel pump recommendations? In-Reply-To: <0c7401cb3890$7a2f5700$0301a8c0@randall> References: <449588.13909.qm@web51607.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <0c7401cb3890$7a2f5700$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: And I'll second the wisdom of carrying an electric pump as an on-the-road fix. Mine's a cheap FLAPS pump but works fine and installs in seconds (really... seconds): http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Electric%20Pump%201.JPG Have used it more on others' cars than mine and most run out and buy one once they have had mine bail them out. As Randall notes, useful for all kinds of things -- I even use it to easily fill & bleed the coolant in my VW camper (usually a park-on-a-hill, run-back-&-forth, stand-on-your-head task). Geo From spitlist at cox.net Tue Aug 10 11:55:33 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 10:55:33 -0700 Subject: =?iso-8859-1?q?Re=3A_=5BTR=5D_Trivia_alert=05Triumph_in_advertis?= =?iso-8859-1?q?ing?= In-Reply-To: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> Message-ID: The trouble with using a Spitfire to hawk GPS systems is that there was no cigarette lighter socket installed to power the system. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 4:42 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Trivia alertTriumph in advertising We were shopping at our local Costco (a large bulk item store for those of you who arent familiar with the name) and as I passed by a row of GPS devices, something caught my eye. I glanced back and sure enough, on a poster board about three foot square, with a Tom-Tom GPS attached to the top of it, was a large photo of an early white MK4 Spitfire on a country road. A full three quarter back right side shot, about two feet long. I of course shrieked to my wife, HEY DEAR, LOOK which caused a few people to suddenly look over to see what I was apparently so excited about. They probably thought I was excited about the GPS  but we all know what I was really looking at!! My wife of course noticed that it was occupied by two girls, silly me for not noticing It was pretty cool Barry and Rosanne San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From davidt at opentext.com Tue Aug 10 12:23:15 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 14:23:15 -0400 Subject: =?iso-8859-1?q?Re=3A_=5BTR=5D_=5BSpits=5D_Trivia_alert=05Triumph?= =?iso-8859-1?q?_in_advertising?= In-Reply-To: References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> Message-ID: On the front page of the tomtom site, it looks like either a red tr6 or a sunbeam, not sure I am sure others will know better :-) http://www.tomtom.com/ Somewhere on their site they had the spitfire as well. Just picked up the 730 :-) what goes better with a spitfire, darth vader voices :-) David '59 tr3a '74 spitsix -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:56 PM To: v6spitfireguy at cox.net; spitfires at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising The trouble with using a Spitfire to hawk GPS systems is that there was no cigarette lighter socket installed to power the system. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 4:42 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Trivia alertTriumph in advertising We were shopping at our local Costco (a large bulk item store for those of you who arent familiar with the name) and as I passed by a row of GPS devices, something caught my eye. I glanced back and sure enough, on a poster board about three foot square, with a Tom-Tom GPS attached to the top of it, was a large photo of an early white MK4 Spitfire on a country road. A full three quarter back right side shot, about two feet long. I of course shrieked to my wife, HEY DEAR, LOOK which caused a few people to suddenly look over to see what I was apparently so excited about. They probably thought I was excited about the GPS  but we all know what I was really looking at!! My wife of course noticed that it was occupied by two girls, silly me for not noticing It was pretty cool Barry and Rosanne San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/davidt at opentext.com From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Aug 10 13:18:30 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 15:18:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: =?iso-8859-1?q?Re=3A_=5BTR=5D_Trivia_alert=05Triumph_in_advertis?= =?iso-8859-1?q?ing?= In-Reply-To: References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <20100810151830.ALY94848@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> > The trouble with using a Spitfire to hawk GPS systems is > that there was no cigarette lighter socket installed to > power the system. That depends on the model. My '80 1500 has one. -- Jim Muller From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca Tue Aug 10 13:26:39 2010 From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (TR6Quebec) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 15:26:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact Message-ID: <8B33E0082ECE4AA2A3DA0817623ED14B@robertlaptop> HI, I'm experiencing problem since three weeks, none of my replies are posted on the list and my attempt to get information are not answered..... I'm I the only one ? Robert TR6Quebec AT videotron.ca From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Tue Aug 10 13:29:13 2010 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 15:29:13 EDT Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 Message-ID: <4f431.2f4dc54e.39930289@aol.com> It best occurs when the car is on a slight incline (my driveway). It only occurs when the car is in gear and the ebrake is off. When stopped, you can push up and down on a rear corner of the car as if you were testing a shock absorber and I then create a clunk so loud and apparent, that the hub wheel on that side almost seems to visibly chatter. Check your shock link. Had a friend who was chasing a clunk and we found it to be the link. Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs From spitlist at cox.net Tue Aug 10 13:50:09 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 12:50:09 -0700 Subject: =?iso-8859-1?q?Re=3A_=5BTR=5D_Trivia_alert=05Triumph_in_advertis?= =?iso-8859-1?q?ing?= In-Reply-To: <20100810151830.ALY94848@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> <20100810151830.ALY94848@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <9E6D872988C146B8AFC72F4AD2239FAC@joepentiumnew> I can't speak to later models, since I don't have one. I added two outlets to Tiny Tim for GPS and Radar detector. Joew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 12:19 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising > The trouble with using a Spitfire to hawk GPS systems is > that there was no cigarette lighter socket installed to > power the system. That depends on the model. My '80 1500 has one. -- Jim Muller _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From wbeech at flash.net Tue Aug 10 14:07:07 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 14:07:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: <8B33E0082ECE4AA2A3DA0817623ED14B@robertlaptop> References: <8B33E0082ECE4AA2A3DA0817623ED14B@robertlaptop> Message-ID: This one got through. Mobile Bill On Aug 10, 2010, at 1:26 PM, TR6Quebec wrote: > HI, > > I'm experiencing problem since three weeks, none of my replies are posted on the list and my attempt to get information are not answered..... > > I'm I the only one ? > > Robert > TR6Quebec AT videotron.ca > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca Tue Aug 10 14:32:07 2010 From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (TR6Quebec) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:32:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7871EAD9CB374EAB8115C1F83B63BE73@robertlaptop> ED, Darrell, THIS IS A TEST AS MY PREVIOUS REPLY WAS NEVER POSTED.......... ============================================================ The +Famous; TR6 CLUNK in the back is a well known problem at the 6-Pack forum. It's the four(4) brackets holding the differential bushings that are cracked and by the torque, moving forward or backward, is moving a little. The two metal pieces friction along the crack is making that clunk. I suggest you have a look at the many postings on several forums to have access to photos and clear explanation on how to repair. The big three suppliers are even selling reinforcement for those four brackets to be welded, +boxing; the supports. Robert TR6Quebec > > Message: 8 > Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 17:49:50 -0400 > From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Subject: Re: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 > To: "Ed Woods" , > Message-ID: <125D2762BB2A4615AAB92D347A9D33C3 at BobPC> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > Ed, > Can you better describe your inspection of the diff mounts for cracks. It > doesn't take much of a crack to cause the dreaded clunk sound and it isn't > always very visible. I had the clunk and couldn't find any cracks until I > took a wire brush to the mount and really cleaned it up. Even then, what I > saw surprised me that it was considered a crack as it looked more like a > thin line in the mount. There's a couple of pictures about 1/2 way down > this > page http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffMounts.htm > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Ed Woods" > Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 4:54 PM > To: > Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 > >> List, >> >> Ever since its restoration many years and thousands of miles ago, my >> brother's >> '76 TR6 has made a "clunk" when changing direction as in backing up, then >> going forward or going forward, then backing up. >> >> We have examined the diff mounts, replaced all universals on the drive >> shaft >> and half shafts, pulled the half shaft apart and greased them, etc. etc. >> We're >> about to change the diff, even though neither of us believes the diff to >> be >> the problem. In other words, we're down to grasping at straws. >> >> This morning we made a new observaton which is why I'm appealing to the >> List >> for insight or solution. >> >> If the E brake is on while we attempt to move the car forward or >> backward, >> there is no evidence of this "clunk". It occurs only if the car moves, >> however >> slightly. >> >> I would assume this evidence eliminates the driveshaft, diff, and half >> shafts >> as the cause of the problem. >> >> Does the List agree? >> >> Then, what's left? Brakes? Wheels? >> >> Ed Woods From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Tue Aug 10 14:35:05 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 20:35:05 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising In-Reply-To: References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <454223.18738.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> No, you only got a cigar lighter /cigarettes too if you bought a Triumph saloon priced above that of the Herald/Vitesse/Sports 6. Something to do with an up-market specification? In those former 'class-ridden' days I suppose the product equipment specifiers argued that with the cheaper cars, a box of matches was more than enough :) Jonmac ________________________________ From: Joe Curry To: v6spitfireguy at cox.net; spitfires at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, 10 August, 2010 18:55:33 Subject: Re: [TR] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising The trouble with using a Spitfire to hawk GPS systems is that there was no cigarette lighter socket installed to power the system. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 4:42 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Trivia alertTriumph in advertising We were shopping at our local Costco (a large bulk item store for those of you who arent familiar with the name) and as I passed by a row of GPS devices, something caught my eye. I glanced back and sure enough, on a poster board about three foot square, with a Tom-Tom GPS attached to the top of it, was a large photo of an early white MK4 Spitfire on a country road. A full three quarter back right side shot, about two feet long. I of course shrieked to my wife, HEY DEAR, LOOK which caused a few people to suddenly look over to see what I was apparently so excited about. They probably thought I was excited about the GPS but we all know what I was really looking at!! My wife of course noticed that it was occupied by two girls, silly me for not noticing It was pretty cool Barry and Rosanne San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From carlsereda at aol.com Tue Aug 10 15:31:46 2010 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 14:31:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR clunk In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Since you've tried most everything else - how about checking backlash of 'pinion to crown gear'. And the 'planet gears'. Put tranny in neutral and try turning differential 'input flange' back and forth to feel if backlash is close to .03" with parking brake on. Mine was darn near 1/8 inch of slop before rebuilding (with the help of Hardy Prentice). The planet gears are less direct (forward and back direction) since they 'equalize' the two rear wheels to each other, but they can easily wear the brass thrust washers thin making for 'side to side' slop that ends up making clunks. Leave one rear wheel on ground and try turning other rear wheel back and forth (but driveshaft must be locked down somehow to isolate the planet gear action). Should be thousandths of an inch play there as well (not 1/8's or 1/4's"). Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 On Aug 10, 2010, at 11:00:02 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: Ever since its restoration many years and thousands of miles ago, my brother's '76 TR6 has made a "clunk" when changing direction as in backing up, then going forward or going forward, then backing up. From dave at ranteer.com Tue Aug 10 16:25:14 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 17:25:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?=5BSpits=5D_Trivia_alert=05Triumph_in_adverti?= =?iso-8859-1?q?sing?= In-Reply-To: References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> Message-ID: definitely not a tr6 -------------------------------------------------- From: "David Templeton" Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:23 PM To: "Joe Curry" ; ; Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising > On the front page of the tomtom site, it looks like either a red tr6 or > a sunbeam, not sure I am sure others will know better :-) > > http://www.tomtom.com/ > > Somewhere on their site they had the spitfire as well. Just picked up > the 730 :-) what goes better with a spitfire, darth vader voices :-) > > David > '59 tr3a > '74 spitsix From dave at ranteer.com Tue Aug 10 16:29:21 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 17:29:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?Trivia_alert=2ETriumph_in_advertising?= In-Reply-To: References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> Message-ID: I got one that way too. some clothing store was using a picture of a model sitting on the door of a tan tr3. Yes, ON the door!!! you could see how it distorted the door, tho. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Geo Hahn" Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 12:08 PM To: Cc: "Triumphs" Subject: Re: [TR] Trivia alert.Triumph in advertising > On 8/10/10, v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote: >> We were shopping at our local Costco... I glanced back and sure enough, >> on a >> poster board about three foot square, with a Tom-Tom GPS attached to the >> top of it, was a large photo of an early white MK4 Spitfire on a country >> road. A full three quarter back right side shot, about two feet long... > > You might ask a store manager if you can have the sign when they are > done with it (if you want such a thing in the garage, say). I have a > big Nabisco cookie sign that featured a white TR3A that was a store > display. In that case it was my wife that did the asking (she gets > what she wants) the guy took the display apart and gave her the sign > on the spot. > > Geo From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Aug 10 16:37:45 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 18:37:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?Trivia_alert=2ETriumph_in_advertising?= In-Reply-To: References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <46D2D632D17F472DB2BB251EE1D3BA31@CarlPC> Is that the one that they flipped the image? Triumph lettering is 'mirror image' ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: Cc: "Triumphs" Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:08 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Trivia alert.Triumph in advertising > On 8/10/10, v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote: >> We were shopping at our local Costco... I glanced back and sure enough, >> on a >> poster board about three foot square, with a Tom-Tom GPS attached to the >> top of it, was a large photo of an early white MK4 Spitfire on a country >> road. A full three quarter back right side shot, about two feet long... > > You might ask a store manager if you can have the sign when they are > done with it (if you want such a thing in the garage, say). I have a > big Nabisco cookie sign that featured a white TR3A that was a store > display. In that case it was my wife that did the asking (she gets > what she wants) the guy took the display apart and gave her the sign > on the spot. > > Geo > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Aug 10 16:39:05 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 18:39:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?=5BSpits=5D_Trivia_alert=05Triumph_in_adverti?= =?iso-8859-1?q?sing?= In-Reply-To: References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <814A94CB08FB471B85715D84E7A1D3DA@CarlPC> Has anyone installed a 'lighter' socket on a positive ground car (TR3). Will these accessories work? C ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Templeton" To: "Joe Curry" ; ; Cc: Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 2:23 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising > On the front page of the tomtom site, it looks like either a red tr6 or > a sunbeam, not sure I am sure others will know better :-) > > http://www.tomtom.com/ > > Somewhere on their site they had the spitfire as well. Just picked up > the 730 :-) what goes better with a spitfire, darth vader voices :-) > > David > '59 tr3a > '74 spitsix > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry > Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:56 PM > To: v6spitfireguy at cox.net; spitfires at autox.team.net > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Spits] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising > > The trouble with using a Spitfire to hawk GPS systems is that there was > no > cigarette lighter socket installed to power the system. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > v6spitfireguy at cox.net > Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 4:42 AM > To: spitfires at autox.team.net > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Trivia alertTriumph in advertising > > We were shopping at our local Costco (a large bulk item store for those > of > you who arent familiar with the name) and as I passed by a row of GPS > devices, something caught my eye. I glanced back and sure enough, on a > poster board about three foot square, with a Tom-Tom GPS attached to the > top of it, was a large photo of an early white MK4 Spitfire on a country > road. A full three quarter back right side shot, about two feet long. > I > of course shrieked to my wife, HEY DEAR, LOOK which caused a few > people > to suddenly look over to see what I was apparently so excited about. > They > probably thought I was excited about the GPS  but we all know what I > was > really looking at!! My wife of course noticed that it was occupied by > two > girls, silly me for not noticing It was pretty cool > > Barry and Rosanne > San Diego, CA > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and > application > hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net > _______________________________________________ > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/davidt at opentext.com > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From trglory at verizon.net Tue Aug 10 18:25:05 2010 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 20:25:05 -0400 Subject: =?iso-8859-1?q?Re=3A_=5BTR=5D_=5BSpits=5D_Trivia_alert=05Triumph?= =?iso-8859-1?q?_in_advertising?= In-Reply-To: References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <007801cb38eb$a64bda10$f2e38e30$@net> It's a Honda. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 6:25 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising definitely not a tr6 -------------------------------------------------- From: "David Templeton" Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:23 PM To: "Joe Curry" ; ; Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising > On the front page of the tomtom site, it looks like either a red tr6 or > a sunbeam, not sure I am sure others will know better :-) > > http://www.tomtom.com/ > > Somewhere on their site they had the spitfire as well. Just picked up > the 730 :-) what goes better with a spitfire, darth vader voices :-) > > David > '59 tr3a > '74 spitsix From fishplate at charter.net Tue Aug 10 19:12:47 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:12:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising In-Reply-To: <454223.18738.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> <454223.18738.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: At 04:35 PM 8/10/2010, John Macartney wrote: > In those former 'class-ridden' days I suppose the >product equipment specifiers argued that with the cheaper cars, a box of >matches >was more than enough :) It's never taken me more than two or three matches to get my cheap cars nicely alight, even on the windiest days. Proper application of petrol prior to striking the match is, of course, essential. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 10 19:12:29 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:12:29 EDT Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact Message-ID: <7268c.61b73881.399352fd@cs.com> In a message dated 8/10/2010 2:47:41 PM Central Daylight Time, TR6Quebec at videotron.ca writes: > I'm experiencing problem since three weeks, none of my replies are posted > on the list and my attempt to get information are not answered..... > > I'm I the only one ? > The list was down for a while but I don't think it was for three weeks. Perhaps your spam blocker got confused. But this one got through so maybe the problem is resolved. Dave From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Aug 10 19:31:36 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:31:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR clunk References: Message-ID: <1DEE3AB4D1B247DCACB91F033264E34C@Edscomputer> If the "clunk" was coming from the diff, wouldn't it still exist when reversing with the E brake on?? Emergency brake is a term used before the lawyers changed it to parking brake. There I go showing my age again. Same deal with "guide rail" surplanting "guard rail" I think. Ed Woods From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Aug 10 19:36:21 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:36:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 References: <7871EAD9CB374EAB8115C1F83B63BE73@robertlaptop> Message-ID: Robert, My point, again, is that, if these brackets were at fault, the noise would still occur with the emergency brake on as the torque of the drive shaft was reversed. Wouldn't it? This particular car had the reinforcement brackets installed during its frame up. Ed From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Tue Aug 10 19:42:11 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 20:42:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?=5BSpits=5D_Trivia_alert=05Triumph_in_adverti?= =?iso-8859-1?q?sing?= In-Reply-To: References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com>, , Message-ID: All I see is a Mercedes van. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: dave at ranteer.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 17:25:14 -0500 > Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising > > definitely not a tr6 > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "David Templeton" > Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:23 PM > To: "Joe Curry" ; ; > > Cc: > Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Trivia alertTriumph in advertising > > > On the front page of the tomtom site, it looks like either a red tr6 or > > a sunbeam, not sure I am sure others will know better :-) > > > > http://www.tomtom.com/ > > > > Somewhere on their site they had the spitfire as well. Just picked up > > the 730 :-) what goes better with a spitfire, darth vader voices :-) > > > > David > > '59 tr3a > > '74 spitsix > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 10 20:52:46 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 19:52:46 -0700 Subject: =?iso-8859-1?q?Re=3A_=5BTR=5D_=5BSpits=5D_Trivia_alert=05Triumph?= =?iso-8859-1?q?_in_advertising?= In-Reply-To: <814A94CB08FB471B85715D84E7A1D3DA@CarlPC> References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> <814A94CB08FB471B85715D84E7A1D3DA@CarlPC> Message-ID: <0da901cb3900$473303e0$0301a8c0@randall> > Has anyone installed a 'lighter' socket on a positive ground > car (TR3). > Will these accessories work? I have not done it (my TRs have all been converted to negative ground), but I know people who have. No reason it shouldn't work fine, as long as you are careful to not short the grounds together. That means you'll either need to find an isolated outlet (more marine outlets are isolated) or find some way to mount it so it's not grounded to the car. Also a good idea to use a separate fuse, or better yet a circuit breaker for the outlet. That way, if it does get inadvertently shorted, it won't kill any other devices. BTW, I was in Torrance Electronics the other day, and they have nice tab mount automotive grade 12 amp circuit breakers for $3.50 each. Just right for a cigarette lighter/outlet. I think I may use them instead of fuses for my headlights. Randall From tr3 at roadrunner.com Tue Aug 10 22:19:34 2010 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (HANS DEFERRANTE) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:19:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? Message-ID: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com> I have one of the original California black license plates for my TR3 in quite decent shape. Does anyone know if there is someone out there that replicates metal ones for a second plate? From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Aug 10 23:00:24 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 22:00:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? In-Reply-To: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com> References: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <4C622E68.8070107@gmail.com> On 8/10/10 9:19 PM, HANS DEFERRANTE wrote: > I have one of the original California black license plates for my TR3 > in quite decent shape. Does anyone know if there is someone out there > that replicates metal ones for a second plate? Is it the plate currently assigned to your TR? If not you may have a problem getting it assigned. The newest year for the California year of manufacture plate programme is 1962. That was the last year of the yellow with black lettering plates. The black with yellow lettering plates do not qualify. Teriann From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 10 23:19:40 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 22:19:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? In-Reply-To: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com> References: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <0dcf01cb3914$ccc2f8d0$0301a8c0@randall> > I have one of the original California black license plates > for my TR3 > in quite decent shape. Does anyone know if there is someone > out there > that replicates metal ones for a second plate? There are several places that do this, eg, http://www.licenseplates.tv/1963-california-stat-1570.html The use of such plates on the road in CA is likely illegal, though. And if you don't already have a current registration for them, you are supposed to produce both plates for inspection before the DMV will give you a new registration. That said, the clerk that handled my TR3 didn't even look at the second plate. BTW, "black" plates are not eligible for the "Year of Manufacture" (or YOM) program in CA. Instead, you have to demonstrate that the plates you have were originally assigned to your car. The DMV clerk that processed my initial application did not know that, and the YOM paperwork was rejected by Sacramento. Fortunately for me, the previous owner's mother-in-law still lives in the area, and for some reason still had a registration slip from 1978! Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 10 23:25:15 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 22:25:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? In-Reply-To: <4C622E68.8070107@gmail.com> References: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com> <4C622E68.8070107@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0dd001cb3915$94f56e00$0301a8c0@randall> > The newest year for the California year of manufacture plate > programme is 1962. I'm pretty sure they extended it some time ago, TeriAnn. Anyway, the form on the DMV site says cars to 1969 are eligible. http://www.dmv.ca.gov/forms/reg/reg352.pdf The problem of course would be convincing the DMV that your TR3 was made in 1963 Randall From don at napanet.net Tue Aug 10 23:41:39 2010 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 22:41:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? In-Reply-To: <4C622E68.8070107@gmail.com> References: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com> <4C622E68.8070107@gmail.com> Message-ID: <20100811054147.C06A6AE665@mail.dsl.napanet.net> I believe the YOM program has been extended to include the black plates. But it may not be easy to do. Here is a website that discusses the YOM license program in California. http://www.oldpl8s.com/faqs.htm At 10:00 PM 08/10/2010, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: >On 8/10/10 9:19 PM, HANS DEFERRANTE wrote: >>I have one of the original California black license plates for my >>TR3 in quite decent shape. Does anyone know if there is someone out >>there that replicates metal ones for a second plate? > >Is it the plate currently assigned to your TR? If not you may have >a problem getting it assigned. > >The newest year for the California year of manufacture plate >programme is 1962. That was the last year of the yellow with black >lettering plates. The black with yellow lettering plates do not qualify. > >Teriann From tr3 at roadrunner.com Wed Aug 11 00:24:12 2010 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 23:24:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Replicate Cal. License Plates? References: <20100811054147.C06A6AE665@mail.dsl.napanet.net> Message-ID: <7C9E5D78-089F-47A3-B7E9-6F38C1C8049B@roadrunner.com> These plates were originally assigned to this car and I have the old registration to proof it. However, in the mean time, I took new plates out and was told by the DMV that alI I would have to do is come in with the 2 plates and the original registration (which I then did not yet have) to get it reinstated. The problem is to get the clerk to accept the second plate as original. For that it needs to be a good METAL replica. Hans Begin forwarded message: > From: don > Date: August 10, 2010 10:41:39 PM PDT > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? > > I believe the YOM program has been extended to include the black > plates. But it may not be easy to do. > Here is a website that discusses the YOM license program in > California. > > http://www.oldpl8s.com/faqs.htm > > > > > At 10:00 PM 08/10/2010, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: >> On 8/10/10 9:19 PM, HANS DEFERRANTE wrote: >>> I have one of the original California black license plates for my >>> TR3 in quite decent shape. Does anyone know if there is someone >>> out there that replicates metal ones for a second plate? >> >> Is it the plate currently assigned to your TR? If not you may have >> a problem getting it assigned. >> >> The newest year for the California year of manufacture plate >> programme is 1962. That was the last year of the yellow with black >> lettering plates. The black with yellow lettering plates do not >> qualify. >> >> Teriann > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com From greg at miranoconsulting.com Tue Aug 10 19:42:24 2010 From: greg at miranoconsulting.com (Greg Tobin) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 01:42:24 +0000 Subject: [TR] 21 years on the list anniversary (and 72 Spitfire for sale) Message-ID: It's been 21 years now since I first joined the list (then the SOL list...) and though I've always just been a lurker, it seems a bit odd that over half of my life I've been a member of some sort of email list. Mark, thanks for keeping this alive for for 1/5 of a century! I seriously never thought that it would have continued this long. Over the years, I've owned a variety of GT6's and Spitfires, and my last one is just that, my last one. Sad, yes, but other things always are more pressing, and it's just time to let this car be in the sun instead of in the garage all of the time whilst other things get attended to. I'm going to miss it, it's been a wonderful car, part of the family, and an end to many things when I sell it. I hope someone on the list is looking for a spit that is reliable, has the right parts and looks nice (at least inside...). I'm in Portland OR, the price is $3850, and the description is below. Let me know if you have questions, it'll be on the west coast craigslists also. -greg -- Ibm listingmy Spitfire for sale:1972 MKIV:Reliable daily driver, lots of new parts.Ibve owned it for over 15 years, and I am thesecond owner.Pics at http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimatevanity/sets/72157624560161579/ COMM#FK23819L ENG#FK27271UE Herebs thelist of the good things about the car: Chromebumpers, and not the big mid 70bs ones, but the thin delicate ones that wereonly available for 2 years. Black dash,not wood. Theinterior is all new.It shows, itbs innice shape. I had theseats redone in the same stitching style as original, but with a cloth centerinstead of the original black vinyl.Newfoam, the sliders work smoothly, latch, etc. New carpet. Newtrays/trim under the dash. Newdashboard overlay.The original dash wascracked in the center around the ashtray, but was otherwise fine. Newseatbelts- Corbeau 3 point harnesses. Misc smallstuff inside is new:New turn signalcovers, a few switches, handbrake cover, etc. Autopower rollbar, hammerite b painted.Has a cover,but itbs kind of old school looking, not installed currently. New rubberseals throughout the car. Newmuffler. Alwaysgaraged, never left outside. New Robbinstop- frame was sanded, Hammerited, and mostly new hardware. Engine: Original 1296that I know of, Ibve never had it apart. Plugs arealways the proper colour, and always gets the same mileage. Enginemounts and transmission mounts replaced within a reasonable amount of time ago,theybre not old. MSD 6ALignition installed (with stock points) , but original ignition setup worksalso, I just found it to run better with the MSD, gets a bit better mileage andruns/starts smoother. Largeradiator installed.Re-cored, pressuretested, etc.Probably only has 500 mileson it. All newradiator / heater hoses. New oilcooler with stainless lines, under 500 miles. Aux faninstalled with custom bracketry (installed when I had the small radiator, thebig radiator negates the need for it, but itbs there and works nicely. ZS150 carb,comes with two air cleaners, the small one in the pics, and a stock one, notrusty or banged up. Suspensionand trunnions were fully replaced within 2000 miles ago.New shocks, bearings, tie rods, ball joints, bolts,boots, etc.Painted the springs, andsuspension arms when they were off. Brakes-newish pads all round. Tires:AVS01 175/60/13.Half tread, nice tires, NLA in this size, carhandles wonderfully with them. Electrics:Everything works as it should but thehorn.Never had a working horn when Ibought it, and I never worried about fixing it.The harness was never mucked with as withmost Spitfires, and most if not all of the female bullet connectors werereplaced and die-electric greased (this is where 90% of the electrical issuesever are anyways). No rustinside, the floors are solid and nice.No trunk rust.No wing rust.Allthe running gear pieces have just enough oil/grease on them to keep rust awayand that you are reminded itbs British. Herebs whatbad about the car: Typicaluseless synchros.Likes to bedouble-clutched, especially 2-1. Speedostopped working last year.Not sure why,no doubt the drive box failed, but really, I never poked it to see why. Add 1kto whatbs shown on the odometer and itbs about right. Tachometerdoesnbt work.The (new) cable is tooshort, so itbs just disconnected; has been as long as I have owned it. Distributorvacuum advance is long broken, new ones are NLA.Runs fine with full advance. Heatercontrol valve needs to be replaced (as does the cable), I have both new in abox. It really doesnbt look sharp.Ok, itbs downright scruffy.It was repainted sometime in the early 90bsbefore I bought it, and though it was an acceptable job, the paint itself wasessentially worthless.Faded, cracked,chipped, etc.Canbt even be buffed out. It has a hole approx 3bx5b just forward of thefront drivers door, but has stayed the same size for at least 10 years.Itbs got a number of small dents, and a largeone on each of the doors.They add up tomake it look way rougher than what it really is.It could be called patina, and in fact a lotof it is, since itbs just been driven a long timeand though the car has been well taken careof, the paint was never a good thing.Itbs not a rust box, and what you see is it,nothing hidden, the benefit of an older paintjobb& Repaint thecar, and you actually have a car thatbs over all in far better shape thanmost.Certainly one that runs quitenicely to be driven anywhere, has an all new interior properly done and has theright stuff taken care of. Theimportant bits were always taken care of, and replaced as needed. I donbt have the list, but itbs a lot of stuffover the years.Bushings, points, hoses,bearings, brakes, gaskets, all the usual stuff.Itbs never failed me once in 50k miles, even in 20 below cold, climbingto ~12k feet in the mountains, or in 105 degree heat.Itbs a reliable little car and a lot offun.I simply donbt have the time anylonger to enjoy it, and Ibve had it long enough (over 15 years) that Ibll missit.Comes with afew misc. small parts; points, plugs, poly steering bushings, roll barcover and a tonneau cover for the top when itbs down. Email forany questions, and see:http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimatevanity/sets/72157624560161579/for more detailed pictures. Greg Tobin ++++++ CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE ++++++ The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged. This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, dissemination or copying of this email and its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email from your system. Thank You. From mark at bradakis.com Wed Aug 11 00:53:29 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 00:53:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: <8B33E0082ECE4AA2A3DA0817623ED14B@robertlaptop> References: <8B33E0082ECE4AA2A3DA0817623ED14B@robertlaptop> Message-ID: <4C6248E9.2040201@bradakis.com> TR6Quebec wrote: > HI, > > I'm experiencing problem since three weeks, none of my replies are posted on the list and my attempt to get information are not answered..... > > I'm I the only one ? > No, you are not the only one whose replies rarely get through to the list. I have a solution. Using the donate link below, send $1,000 US dollars to me. This should be enough to cover air fare, car rental and such expenses for the trip. Outside the United States and Canada it would be more, we'd have to talk. Once I have the money I'd set up travel to your house after we agree upon a date and time. When I arrive show me to your computer and your email program. I'll spend 2 -3 seconds showing you how to highlight and delete all the stuff in your reply that does not need to be there so that your messages are under the size limit for the list, then head back home. If folks could figure out how to properly edit and format replies, there would be no need for a size limit in the first place. mjb. From opposumking at verizon.net Wed Aug 11 03:49:22 2010 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 05:49:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact References: <8B33E0082ECE4AA2A3DA0817623ED14B@robertlaptop> <4C6248E9.2040201@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <7F2C5BED52B242FD9A8F9E4AECFA4193@mde.state.md.us> There must be more than just a size limit and the deletion of the trailer though. I've lost numerous replies myself, for reasons I've found inexplicable. That includes some very simple ones where I just quoted one sentence, and gave a brief reply. Along the lines of "why is my tire squished at the bottom?", answer, because it's flat. What are the triggers that it uses to filter messages? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" > > If folks could figure out how to properly edit and format replies, there > would > be no need for a size limit in the first place. From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 07:04:01 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 06:04:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? In-Reply-To: <20100811054147.C06A6AE665@mail.dsl.napanet.net> References: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com> <4C622E68.8070107@gmail.com> <20100811054147.C06A6AE665@mail.dsl.napanet.net> Message-ID: <4C629FC1.5050907@gmail.com> On 8/10/10 10:41 PM, don wrote: > I believe the YOM program has been extended to include the black > plates. But it may not be easy to do. > Here is a website that discusses the YOM license program in California. Oh well. I guess I'm behind the times ... again. My 1961 TR3 is my newest car so I never had to consider newer licenses. Meanwhile, I've moved to Arizona and now have a copper classic car plate. And on the wall, 2 yellow with black California plates with 1961 sticker, a Monterey British Motors license plate frame and a 1961 Del Monte forest grill plate. And from the Land Rover, a pair of historical vehicle plates from the days when they only had 4 digits and no letters. Since I registered my two cars at the same time their classic car plates have successive numbers. During the half month I've been in Flagstaff, so far I've seen: - One functional E-type fixed head coupe that goes to local car events - One small mouth TR3 snug up against a building in Kachina village with a tarp over the middle (looks nonfunctional) - One stripped TR4 body tub at the end of a row of small commercial buildings I guess I need to drive the 3 today just so people can start to remember that once TR3's roamed Route 66. Teriann From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 07:14:09 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 06:14:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: <4C6248E9.2040201@bradakis.com> References: <8B33E0082ECE4AA2A3DA0817623ED14B@robertlaptop> <4C6248E9.2040201@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4C62A221.9030403@gmail.com> On 8/10/10 11:53 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > If folks could figure out how to properly edit and format replies, > there would > be no need for a size limit in the first place. > > mjb. Amen to that!!!! Thank you Mark for setting your lists up that way. I belong to 2 other lists that do not have limits and few people edit their replies leaving huge long emails where the only thing new is a single line of text. Thanks Mark Teriann From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca Wed Aug 11 07:59:36 2010 From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (TR6Quebec) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 09:59:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR clunk (Ed Woods) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EE2090B6EB54C34A767099E01D5C679@robertlaptop> ED, I think you're right about the hand-brake/emergency brake/parking brake........ Specialy if you have already +boxed; those mounts, I am confused now!!! I would still have a look just in case the boxing is defective..... Good luck. Robert =======================================> > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:31:36 -0400 > From: "Ed Woods" > Subject: Re: [TR] TR clunk > To: "carlsereda" , > Message-ID: <1DEE3AB4D1B247DCACB91F033264E34C at Edscomputer> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > If the "clunk" was coming from the diff, wouldn't it still exist when > reversing with the E brake on?? > > Emergency brake is a term used before the lawyers changed it to parking > brake. There I go showing my age again. Same deal with "guide rail" > surplanting "guard rail" I think. > > Ed Woods > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:36:21 -0400 > From: "Ed Woods" > Subject: Re: [TR] List diagnosis requested TR6 > To: "TR6Quebec" , > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=response > > Robert, > > My point, again, is that, if these brackets were at fault, the noise would > still occur with the emergency brake on as the torque of the drive shaft > was > reversed. Wouldn't it? > > This particular car had the reinforcement brackets installed during its > frame up. > > Ed From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Aug 11 08:02:40 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 10:02:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? In-Reply-To: <0dd001cb3915$94f56e00$0301a8c0@randall> References: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com><4C622E68.8070107@gmail.com> <0dd001cb3915$94f56e00$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <8CD0774FEC72D21-18A0-8559@webmail-d002.sysops.aol.com> Randall observed: The problem of course would be convincing the DMV that your TR3 was made in 1963 ==AM== Not much of a problem...IF you had a TR3B, many of which were not sold and, therefore, titled until 1963! ;) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 11 10:01:55 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 09:01:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? In-Reply-To: <8CD0774FEC72D21-18A0-8559@webmail-d002.sysops.aol.com> References: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com><4C622E68.8070107@gmail.com><0dd001cb3915$94f56e00$0301a8c0@randall> <8CD0774FEC72D21-18A0-8559@webmail-d002.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <006c01cb396e$85c8b460$0301a8c0@randall> > Not much of a problem...IF you had a TR3B, many of which were > not sold and, > therefore, titled until 1963! ;) That might work. But the law authorizing the CA YOM program refers to the "model-year when the vehicle was manufactured" and authorizes the DMV to make their own determination as to when that was. I'm guessing it would have to be one of the last few (completed in Sept or Oct 62) in order to convince them it was a 1963 model. They probably wouldn't accept a car made in May 62 as a 63 model. http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d03/vc5004_1.htm Of course, it no doubt depends on which clerk you get. I intentionally went to one of the better local branches, and they still didn't seem to know very much about the laws for old cars. There was a manager who claimed to be president of the Studebaker club on my first visit, but by my third visit she wouldn't even talk to me. Fortunately, by knowing which section of vehicle code I was trying to use, I got them to send my application to Sacramento, where it got approved. Randall From keithstewart at execulink.com Wed Aug 11 10:24:05 2010 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 12:24:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 339 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <26FDE8EC-6403-4C82-B6B6-52A24177A281@execulink.com> Ed wrote: recently replaced a Canadian made after market pump (that failed) with the Moss pump. So far so good. I also found that in my boxes of loot from the PO was the original AC pump. I am rebuilding that. The challenge is getting the old valves out and the new ones installed. The originals are peened in (not sure of the correct term), but you need to dremel (this is a verb right) them off to even up the edges prior to attempting the change. If someone else has a better method I'm sure they will chime in. +++ The metal is quite soft. When I rebuilt mine, I used the sharp blade of a box cutter to trim away the material and after replacing the valves, slightly peened it over again in the same manner as original. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 14:21:22 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 13:21:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Trivia alert Triumph in advertising In-Reply-To: <814A94CB08FB471B85715D84E7A1D3DA@CarlPC> References: <380-220108210114216499@M2W125.mail2web.com> <814A94CB08FB471B85715D84E7A1D3DA@CarlPC> Message-ID: On 8/10/10, Carl TR wrote: > Has anyone installed a 'lighter' socket on a positive ground car (TR3). I have. Used a little masonite panel to isolate the body of the outlet from chassis ground: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%2012V%20Socket.JPG And yes, the Nabisco sign was the one with the LHD TR3A flipped to look like RHD. From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca Wed Aug 11 14:29:07 2010 From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (TR6Quebec) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 16:29:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mark and Teriann, I want to thank you for the new member that I am in that kind of list, having so much compassion for the others.....!!!!! I waited more than three weeks to finally get four messages from the administration, the same day, telling me that my four messages were too long and that I should edit them! I was editing the top header but not the bottom one. SORRY! So, I was ready to send you a 1,000$ for your trip but after reading your initial +MJB;, I found it too close to the other make, so I changed my mind!!!! Talking about long message, the Spit for sale is certainly longer than any of my bounced replies. Sorry to all of you if I have caused you so much inconvenient. I will get back to my 6-Pack Forum where peoples seem much friendlier! Robert TR6Quebec ----------------------------- > > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 00:53:29 -0600 > From: Mark J Bradakis > Subject: Re: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <4C6248E9.2040201 at bradakis.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > TR6Quebec wrote: >> HI, >> >> I'm experiencing problem since three weeks, none of my replies are posted >> on the list and my attempt to get information are not answered..... >> >> I'm I the only one ? >> > > No, you are not the only one whose replies rarely get through to the > list. I have a > solution. > > Using the donate link below, send $1,000 US dollars to me. This should be > enough to cover air fare, car rental and such expenses for the trip. > Outside the > United States and Canada it would be more, we'd have to talk. > > Once I have the money I'd set up travel to your house after we agree > upon a > date and time. When I arrive show me to your computer and your email > program. > I'll spend 2 -3 seconds showing you how to highlight and delete all the > stuff in > your reply that does not need to be there so that your messages are > under the size > limit for the list, then head back home. > > If folks could figure out how to properly edit and format replies, there > would > be no need for a size limit in the first place. > > mjb. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > Amen to that!!!! Thank you Mark for setting your lists up that way. I > belong to 2 other lists that do not have limits and few people edit > their replies leaving huge long emails where the only thing new is a > single line of text. > > Thanks Mark > > Teriann From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 14:45:23 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 13:45:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? In-Reply-To: <4C629FC1.5050907@gmail.com> References: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com> <4C622E68.8070107@gmail.com> <20100811054147.C06A6AE665@mail.dsl.napanet.net> <4C629FC1.5050907@gmail.com> Message-ID: On 8/11/10, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: > Meanwhile, I've moved to Arizona... Perhaps you already know this, but AZ also allows YOM plates for cars >25 years old and when the plate sequence is not the same as current issues. It has sometimes been a problem getting the local DMVs to do this (or even look in their own manuals) so I have a copy of their procedure. Extra cost is the same as the 'copper' plate. > I guess I need to drive the 3 today just so people can start to remember > that once TR3's roamed Route 66... There will be a bunch of old British cars on Route 66 in October: http://tinyurl.com/AZRoadrunner2010 Let me know if you can join us for some (or all) of it -- lunch/turnaround for Day 2 is Seligman. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 11 15:39:45 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 14:39:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <071301cb399d$b7a7fe80$26f7fb80$@rr.com> > I will get back to my 6-Pack Forum where peoples seem much friendlier! I'll bet that, if you start copying other's posts for no apparent reason (other than laziness and/or your email client configuration), they'll seem a whole lot less friendly! There is something to be said for the web forum format : much like EFI and automatic transmissions, it makes things easier for those unable to deal with older technology like chokes & clutches. But, since this is an email list, you need to know how to "drive a stick" in order to use it. Much like your TR6. Ah, well, it's been real. -- Randall From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca Wed Aug 11 17:22:11 2010 From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (TR6Quebec) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 19:22:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: <071301cb399d$b7a7fe80$26f7fb80$@rr.com> References: <071301cb399d$b7a7fe80$26f7fb80$@rr.com> Message-ID: <19C8D751B9114902B9A2E3D762904D48@robertlaptop> Randall, +Copying other's post's; - Sorry, I'm not following you! I understand that we have to learn (we all do!) but there's ways to say things for not making someone feel like he's not welcome! So, see you later! Robert -------------------------------------------------- From: "Randall" Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 5:39 PM To: "'TR6Quebec'" ; Subject: RE: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact >> I will get back to my 6-Pack Forum where peoples seem much friendlier! > > I'll bet that, if you start copying other's posts for no apparent reason > (other than laziness and/or your email client configuration), they'll seem > a > whole lot less friendly! > > There is something to be said for the web forum format : much like EFI and > automatic transmissions, it makes things easier for those unable to deal > with older technology like chokes & clutches. But, since this is an email > list, you need to know how to "drive a stick" in order to use it. Much > like > your TR6. > > Ah, well, it's been real. > > -- Randall From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 18:21:48 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 17:21:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: <071301cb399d$b7a7fe80$26f7fb80$@rr.com> References: <071301cb399d$b7a7fe80$26f7fb80$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4C633E9C.3070709@gmail.com> >> I will get back to my 6-Pack Forum where peoples seem much friendlier! >> I'm sorry you feel that you would rather leave this list than go through the effort of trimming the old replies from your messages. Editing the old text that is no longer relevant to a reply is considered politeness in email lists and it only takes a couple seconds to do. If you find a statement from Mark saying that there is a limit to message length and that replies should be edited and a note from me thanking Mark for the way the list is set up to be unfriendly, then so be it. Personally I prefer both polite and friendly. Teriann From pcaffrey at ymail.com Wed Aug 11 18:35:38 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 17:35:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact Message-ID: <911793.20933.qm@web59711.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Mark, You do an excellent job on maintaining and operating the TR List (and on a shoestring budget). The List has been a valuable source of LBC information for me....My posts always go through to the List as well as my replies to posts. There's no problem on my end. Thanks Mark! Pat TR4A '67 1CTC/72746-L From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Aug 11 19:56:35 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:56:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? In-Reply-To: <006c01cb396e$85c8b460$0301a8c0@randall> References: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com><4C622E68.8070107@gmail.com><0dd001cb3915$94f56e00$0301a8c0@randall><8CD0774FEC72D21-18A0-8559@webmail-d002.sysops.aol.com> <006c01cb396e$85c8b460$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <8CD07D8BAC54A87-1FF8-503E@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Randall > Not much of a problem...IF you had a TR3B, many of which were > not sold and, therefore, titled until 1963! ;) That might work. But the law authorizing the CA YOM program refers to the "model-year when the vehicle was manufactured" and authorizes the DMV to make their own determination as to when that was. I'm guessing it would have to be one of the last few (completed in Sept or Oct 62) in order to convince them it was a 1963 model. They probably wouldn't accept a car made in May 62 as a 63 model. ==AM== Perhaps not. OTOH, that likely was one of the main reasons that one often finds the "STC-xx" plates on Triumphs, serving as somewhat "official" notice that the manufacturer considered that car to be a 19xx model at time of first sale. Besides, some of the last TR3Bs were built quite late in 1962 and possible didn't even reach our shores until 1963. [Kinda like some folks here in the US who insist on their early Spitfires being 1962 models, when the car wasn't even officially introduced in the US until January 1963! :-) ] --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Wed Aug 11 19:59:46 2010 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 18:59:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] OK, the IRS differential is shot. Now what? Message-ID: <003201cb39c2$0aa2a120$1fe7e360$@rr.com> At first it started with some whirling noises. Then it started grinding. Leaving work today the car backed up about 4 feet and it felt like I hit something and stopped dead. Talk about your "clunk". Tomorrow it'll come home on a flatbed. I know this isn't going to be cheap. So, what are my options? 1. Get it repaired by a local TR repair shop, assuming they have the tools. How much is that? 2. Update (upgrade) to a Nissan differential ala Bob Danielson. How much is that? 3. Have the guys at TRF repair it. How much is that? 4. Go to a british junk yard and get somebody else's junk. How much is that? 5. Try to repair it myself. How much is that? 6. Other. How much is that? Recommendations? I've had the car since 1970 and would hate to part with it. The list above is in my order of preference, but bow to the wisdom of the experienced ones. Johnnie in beautiful San Diego '67 TR4A IRS '71 Volvo 1800E From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Aug 11 20:01:42 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 22:01:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact Message-ID: <201008112201.43475.yellowtr@adelphia.net> All, There seems to be a bit of static on the list lately. Please, the more members the better informed we all are. Remember Mark administers this list out of the goodness of his heart. The rules for the postings are in the software and not made by Mark. I suggest if anyone would like to take over the admin of this list to enhance the message size, or other features, I am sure Mark would be happy to hand over that task. Also if the message size is a problem for any post, the Triumph forum is available which also allows the posting of photos and unlimited message sizes. It operates very similar to the 6-pack forum. I am a member of the 6-pack forum, the 6-pack email list and the Triumph forum and to be honest, for quick questions, problems, I like the email list better. The forums seem to be a form of chatting with photos. Yes technical questions are asked and answered but a lot of the posts are "social" in nature. To TR6Quebec, If Mark's post offended you, I am sure he was just poking fun and maybe trying to remind you that when you signed up for the list you were sent the rules of list etiquette. I look forward to you returning to the list for your contributions and questions. Bob From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed Aug 11 20:19:06 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:19:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: <911793.20933.qm@web59711.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <911793.20933.qm@web59711.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: +1 on a good job!! I'm newer than some as I've only been here about twenty years. %^) Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Aug 11 21:04:08 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 23:04:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: <201008112201.43475.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201008112201.43475.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <8CD07E22A1DAB76-1FF8-5D65@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Also if the message size is a problem for any post, the Triumph forum is available which also allows the posting of photos and unlimited message sizes. It operates very similar to the 6-pack forum. ==AM== In addition to the Triumph section of the British Car Forum, there is also a Forum right here on Team.Net (although I admit I'm one who seldom visits it; I also prefer e-mail for the most part)! Sadly, even forums such as BCF suffer from some folks who won't or can't edit. ;-) ==AM== To TR6Quebec, If Mark's post offended you, I am sure he was just poking fun and maybe trying to remind you that when you signed up for the list you were sent the rules of list etiquette. I look forward to you returning to the list for your contributions and questions. ==AM== Forgive me for saying this, but there's a bit of "pay no attention to the man behind the curtain" here (eh, Mark?). Running the many dozens of lists at Team.Net is a labor of love for which probably no amount of compensation would be sufficient (and it probably seems as if no amount of compensation is about what Mark receives)! As it happens, I also run over 40 work-related lists as part of my job. I won't go into detail (mostly to protect the guilty!), but it never ceases to amaze me how many supposedly educated people have trouble with the very simplest of instructions and requests. It also never ceases to amaze me how grateful some folks can be when they run into problems with a given list and I try to help best I can. But at least I get paid to do that, as a part of my job! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Aug 11 21:06:36 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 23:06:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <14D324C6E8C441E783601E8FFE7FE3C8@BobPC> I've been a Mail List member for about 13 years now, have contributed to the "server fund" without any acknowledgment of it being received (never contributed again) and have moved more and more to the Forums. TR6Quebec is a regular contributor to 6-Pack and a valued member. Having just read through the response he got, I don't blame him one bit for feeling the way that he does. He's new to this type of format, made a mistake, asked a question and got sarcasm as a response. Where he is mistaken is in thinking that the list members aren't friendly...............the people on this list are great and have helped me immensely over the past 13 years. MJB has held this together for a long time now on a shoe string budget but his sarcastic response does nothing to help a newbie other then to drive him away from this helpful group of people. Sorry guys & gals but I side with TR6Quebec on this one. No one likes to be shot down in public, especially with sarcasm ............. and I'm sure my turn is next. Nomex on. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "TR6Quebec" Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 4:29 PM To: Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact > Mark and Teriann, > > I want to thank you for the new member that I am in that kind of list, > having so much compassion for the others.....!!!!! > > I waited more than three weeks to finally get four messages from the > administration, the same day, telling me that my four messages were too > long and that I should edit them! > > I was editing the top header but not the bottom one. SORRY! > > So, I was ready to send you a 1,000$ for your trip but after reading your > initial +MJB;, I found it too close to the other make, so I changed my > mind!!!! > > Talking about long message, the Spit for sale is certainly longer than any > of my bounced replies. > > Sorry to all of you if I have caused you so much inconvenient. > > I will get back to my 6-Pack Forum where peoples seem much friendlier! > > Robert > TR6Quebec From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 21:12:33 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 20:12:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replicate Cal. License Plates? In-Reply-To: <8CD07D8BAC54A87-1FF8-503E@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> References: <70177528-C90B-4133-82EE-4DE2E3B386DF@roadrunner.com><4C622E68.8070107@gmail.com><0dd001cb3915$94f56e00$0301a8c0@randall><8CD0774FEC72D21-18A0-8559@webmail-d002.sysops.aol.com> <006c01cb396e$85c8b460$0301a8c0@randall> <8CD07D8BAC54A87-1FF8-503E@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C6366A1.7010600@gmail.com> On 8/11/10 6:56 PM, Andrew Mace wrote: > That might work. But the law authorizing the CA YOM program refers to > the "model-year when the vehicle was manufactured" and authorizes the > DMV tomake their own determination as to when that was. I'm guessing > it would have to be one of the last few (completed in Sept or Oct 62) > in order to convince them it was a 1963 model. They probably wouldn't > accept a car made in May 62 as a 63 model. If memory serves, some TR3Bs have a 1963 tag pop riveted to the bulkhead by the commission number. The tag is red I think. A 3B with a 1963 tag should have had a black CA plate when first sold. Teriann From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca Wed Aug 11 21:29:32 2010 From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (TR6Quebec) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 23:29:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: <14D324C6E8C441E783601E8FFE7FE3C8@BobPC> References: <14D324C6E8C441E783601E8FFE7FE3C8@BobPC> Message-ID: <381FB532726849F9A4A523E32942E196@robertlaptop> Okay.....Like Bob Danielson said: +guys & gals; no war on this please....! Thank you Bob for your comments. Appreciated. I did not knew MJB before and was told this p.m. only, that he is the Webmaster, +Listmeister; of this list. He should have mentionned it. Knowing that, my reply would have been different. But also, I would have appreciated a direct e-mail instead. I tought it was a lister and got frustrated by this "over sarcastic" reply. That's the reason for my +friendlier; comment that I now regret. So please, lets all move to more important things.... I'm not out yet so....... Take care all. Robert TR6Quebec -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 11:06 PM To: "TR6Quebec" ; Subject: Re: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact > I've been a Mail List member for about 13 years now, have contributed to > the "server fund" without any acknowledgment of it being received (never > contributed again) and have moved more and more to the Forums. TR6Quebec > is a regular contributor to 6-Pack and a valued member. Having just read > through the response he got, I don't blame him one bit for feeling the way > that he does. He's new to this type of format, made a mistake, asked a > question and got sarcasm as a response. Where he is mistaken is in > thinking that the list members aren't friendly...............the people on > this list are great and have helped me immensely over the past 13 years. > MJB has held this together for a long time now on a shoe string budget but > his sarcastic response does nothing to help a newbie other then to drive > him away from this helpful group of people. Sorry guys & gals but I side > with TR6Quebec on this one. No one likes to be shot down in public, > especially with sarcasm ............. and I'm sure my turn is next. > > Nomex on. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "TR6Quebec" > Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 4:29 PM > To: > Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact > >> Mark and Teriann, >> >> I want to thank you for the new member that I am in that kind of list, >> having so much compassion for the others.....!!!!! >> >> I waited more than three weeks to finally get four messages from the >> administration, the same day, telling me that my four messages were too >> long and that I should edit them! >> >> I was editing the top header but not the bottom one. SORRY! >> >> So, I was ready to send you a 1,000$ for your trip but after reading your >> initial +MJB;, I found it too close to the other make, so I changed my >> mind!!!! >> >> Talking about long message, the Spit for sale is certainly longer than >> any of my bounced replies. >> >> Sorry to all of you if I have caused you so much inconvenient. >> >> I will get back to my 6-Pack Forum where peoples seem much friendlier! >> >> Robert >> TR6Quebec From mark at bradakis.com Wed Aug 11 22:49:41 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 22:49:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> TR6Quebec wrote: > Mark and Teriann, > > I want to thank you for the new member that I am in that kind of list, > having so much compassion for the others.....!!!!! To be honest, if I didn't have compassion for others, a passion for the cars and a desire to assist in keeping them on the road all the Team.Net lists would have gone away a LONG time ago. > > I waited more than three weeks to finally get four messages from the > administration, the same day, telling me that my four messages were > too long and that I should edit them! > These lists do not just appear by magic. There is a man behind the curtain. I deal with Team.Net stuff when I can. There is not a professional staff on call 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It is just me, one guy with some hardware in his basement: http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=20 I saw your message to the list, spent some time looking into it, and found that your messages were all being held for being over the size limit. That is REAL easy to do when you include an entire digest in your response. In case you are wondering, at the moment I have about 10,154 admin messages like yours waiting in the queue for my attention. I wish I were only 3 weeks behind on ALL of the lists! > I was editing the top header but not the bottom one. SORRY! Actually I think the basic problem here is you may not understand your mailer. You are most likely using some sort of, uh, stuff from Microsoft. I'll reserve that rant for later. The default behavior is to include the *entire* original message in a reply when you reply. So as you say the new stuff you wrote may indeed be shorter than the Spit for sale message. But when the entire previous message is included in your message it can easily go over the size limit. You write two lines, but your mailer includes two hundred from the previous message, so off to the admin limbo the message goes. And then when I'm not doing my day job, fixing dinner for my wife, taking care of yard work, cleaning the litterbox, trying to maintain any of my vehicles, I may get around to sifting through the backlog and taking care of things. I'm sorry your visit here was not to your liking. mjb. From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 12 06:57:36 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 08:57:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact Message-ID: <120124.33f9fd62.399549c0@cs.com> In a message dated 8/12/2010 12:15:50 AM Central Daylight Time, mark at bradakis.com writes: > And then when I'm not doing my day job, fixing dinner for my wife, taking > care of yard work, cleaning the litterbox, trying to maintain any of my > vehicles, I may get around to sifting through the backlog and taking care of > things. Sounds like you need a break. Are you going to the historic races in Topeka? If so, see you there. Dave From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Thu Aug 12 07:28:32 2010 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 06:28:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact Message-ID: I have also not been able to contact the list for months. I get all the messages (I guess) every day. So this is a test to see it it works today. I am getting ready to leave this prep-school for Hell, also known as Phoenix. I must admit living here has had one advantage, hell no longer scares me, as I have been here & done that! :-) The TR (along with my '77 911) will be shipped inside the moving van with all of our other stuff. Any advice on special prep for the TR?? Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From TR6Quebec at videotron.ca Thu Aug 12 08:16:34 2010 From: TR6Quebec at videotron.ca (TR6Quebec) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 10:16:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Mark, All your comments are 100% correct and I can appreciate the time and devotion you put in this list and all the others. It's invaluable and I mean it! You mention that there's a man behind all that. Agree with that too! But on the opposite end of the line, there are people, not only HD, motherboard, chips, terabytes and keyboards. Humans! And yes, we make mistakes. I SIMPLY FORGOT TO EDIT CORECTLY MY REPLIES. May I suggest you be a little more careful in you reply, even if you're frustrated after a long and difficult day. It was probably a bad day for you (we all have) but even in your reply, I can't see any form of regrets that could have made me change my mind.....and I was close from doing that. I'm sorry too! Robert TR6Quebec -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark J Bradakis" Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 12:49 AM To: "TR6Quebec" Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact > TR6Quebec wrote: >> Mark and Teriann, >> >> I want to thank you for the new member that I am in that kind of list, >> having so much compassion for the others.....!!!!! > > To be honest, if I didn't have compassion for others, a passion for the > cars and > a desire to assist in keeping them on the road all the Team.Net lists > would have > gone away a LONG time ago. >> >> I waited more than three weeks to finally get four messages from the >> administration, the same day, telling me that my four messages were too >> long and that I should edit them! >> > > These lists do not just appear by magic. There is a man behind the > curtain. > I deal with Team.Net stuff when I can. There is not a professional staff > on call > 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It is just me, one guy with some hardware > in his > basement: > > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=20 > > > I saw your message to the list, spent some time looking into it, and found > that your messages were all being held for being over the size limit. > That is > REAL easy to do when you include an entire digest in your response. > > In case you are wondering, at the moment I have about 10,154 admin > messages like yours waiting in the queue for my attention. I wish I were > only 3 weeks behind on ALL of the lists! > >> I was editing the top header but not the bottom one. SORRY! > > Actually I think the basic problem here is you may not understand your > mailer. > You are most likely using some sort of, uh, stuff from Microsoft. I'll > reserve that > rant for later. The default behavior is to include the *entire* original > message in > a reply when you reply. So as you say the new stuff you wrote may indeed > be > shorter than the Spit for sale message. But when the entire previous > message > is included in your message it can easily go over the size limit. You > write two > lines, but your mailer includes two hundred from the previous message, so > off > to the admin limbo the message goes. And then when I'm not doing my day > job, > fixing dinner for my wife, taking care of yard work, cleaning the > litterbox, trying > to maintain any of my vehicles, I may get around to sifting through the > backlog > and taking care of things. > > I'm sorry your visit here was not to your liking. > > mjb. From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 12 08:42:48 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 10:42:48 EDT Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact Message-ID: <108751.2a167797.39956268@cs.com> In a message dated 8/12/2010 8:48:47 AM Central Daylight Time, tr3a.60 at gmail.com writes: > I am getting ready to leave this prep-school for Hell, also known as > Phoenix. > I must admit living here has had one advantage, hell no longer scares me, > as I > have been here &done that! :-) But it's a dry heat. > > The TR (along with my '77 911) will be shipped inside the moving van with > all > of our other stuff. Any advice on special prep for the TR?? How far are you going and will there be any storage time? Dave From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Aug 12 08:57:09 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 10:57:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: bubble wrap 'em... LOL - actually you can get those foam floating tubes and fasten them to the car covers. will add about 3-4" of buffer around the car. C ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Wise" To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 9:28 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact >I have also not been able to contact the list for months. I get all the > messages (I guess) every day. So this is a test to see it it works today. > > I am getting ready to leave this prep-school for Hell, also known as > Phoenix. > I must admit living here has had one advantage, hell no longer scares me, > as I > have been here & done that! :-) > > The TR (along with my '77 911) will be shipped inside the moving van with > all > of our other stuff. Any advice on special prep for the TR?? > > Thanks > > John > > John A. Wise > Glendale, AZ > > 1960 Triumph TR3A > Commission No: TS80422L > http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ > http://www.triumphowners.com/876 > > 1977 Porsche 911S > http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Thu Aug 12 09:14:58 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 11:14:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100812151458.M4XOX.105839.root@hrndva-web15-z02> Give it a rest already and stop being so sensitive. Enough. JVV ---- TR6Quebec wrote: > Mark, > > May I suggest you be a little more careful in you reply, even if you're > frustrated after a long and difficult day. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Aug 12 09:38:38 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 08:38:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRs in a Moving Van Message-ID: On 8/12/10, John Wise wrote: > The TR (along with my '77 911) will be shipped inside the moving van with > all of our other stuff. Any advice on special prep for the TR?? I have shipped our TR3A cross-country that way (in with the furniture) 3 times. I have always asked to drive it on & off myself and the driver has always agreed. At the very least you want to watch closely as they do it. The ramps can be quite steep, for mine I have to have the driver and his helper lift the rear end of the TR just a bit until the rear wheels are half way up the ramp else it will scrape the ground. I have usually (maybe not always) moved the TR3A with the windscreen off and packed separately. This is especially helpful/safer if they are installing a floor above the car to load furniture up there (a scary image but they do it and it has never been a problem for me). The moving company may have some instructions, usually they say no more than a quarter tank of fuel. Inside a moving van they usually don't care how much you load the car interior & boot with parts & such (since they charge by weight anyway) whereas on a trailer they don't want any extras. The driver should strap the car down really tight -- like until the front suspension bottoms out against the rubber block. They will put moving pads all over the place but still you want nothing touching the car/pads. 1000s of miles of vibration against one of those pads can probably wear thru the paint. They will probably do a pre-load inspection and hand you a sheet to sign with every ding, scratch & mark noted on a diagram of the car. To look at the drawing you would think the car was a real beater -- they are of course just covering themselves. I examine it closely to be sure it isn't too much of an exaggeration and then take lots of photos of the car at the last minute. To state the obvious... thoroughly examine the unloaded car at the other end. Good luck. Geo From rawanderer at comcast.net Thu Aug 12 09:57:09 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 15:57:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Moving (was Re: Impossible to reply or contact) In-Reply-To: <1957255894.1339341.1281628619592.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <803501785.1339351.1281628629391.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> John, Find out if the cars are going to stay on the same truck that initially picked them up. Depending on a number of factors (e.g. distance), your possessions may be transferred (with possible storage time between trucks) a number of times. If so, this obviously increases the possibility of damage, etc. to the Triumph and Porsche. Make sure you have theft insurance! Have you investigated a dedicated car hauler? There was an article in a recent VTR magazine about a group that drove their Triumphs from California to Michigan and had a dedicated hauler bring the cars back (or perhaps it was vice versa). Having only two cars may make it prohibitively expensive, but maybe you can include your daily driver(s) and fly to your new digs. I moved three times (CO-NV, NV-WA, WA-PA) where I had my regular car (a 1987 Plymouth Horizon) brought by the movers in the same van as my household possessions. I think I paid about $1000 each time. I didn't own my vintage car (1974 TR6) until three years ago. Hope this helps. BobW ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Wise" To: "Triumph car discussion Sports" Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 9:28:32 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact I have also not been able to contact the list for months. I get all the messages (I guess) every day. So this is a test to see it it works today. I am getting ready to leave this prep-school for Hell, also known as Phoenix. I must admit living here has had one advantage, hell no longer scares me, as I have been here & done that! :-) The TR (along with my '77 911) will be shipped inside the moving van with all of our other stuff. Any advice on special prep for the TR?? Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net From Harrymague at aol.com Thu Aug 12 09:59:45 2010 From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 11:59:45 EDT Subject: [TR] TRs in a Moving Van Message-ID: When I shipped my "6", I could get up into the van on there ramp, so I rented one of the tow trucks that lifts the car up on a plateform. I then drove the car into the van with no problems. Hope the idea helps. Harry Mague Bevercreek, OH In a message dated 8/12/2010 11:56:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes: On 8/12/10, John Wise wrote: > The TR (along with my '77 911) will be shipped inside the moving van with > all of our other stuff. Any advice on special prep for the TR?? I have shipped our TR3A cross-country that way (in with the furniture) 3 times. I have always asked to drive it on & off myself and the driver has always agreed. At the very least you want to watch closely as they do it. The ramps can be quite steep, for mine I have to have the driver and his helper lift the rear end of the TR just a bit until the rear wheels are half way up the ramp else it will scrape the ground. I have usually (maybe not always) moved the TR3A with the windscreen off and packed separately. This is especially helpful/safer if they are installing a floor above the car to load furniture up there (a scary image but they do it and it has never been a problem for me). The moving company may have some instructions, usually they say no more than a quarter tank of fuel. Inside a moving van they usually don't care how much you load the car interior & boot with parts & such (since they charge by weight anyway) whereas on a trailer they don't want any extras. The driver should strap the car down really tight -- like until the front suspension bottoms out against the rubber block. They will put moving pads all over the place but still you want nothing touching the car/pads. 1000s of miles of vibration against one of those pads can probably wear thru the paint. They will probably do a pre-load inspection and hand you a sheet to sign with every ding, scratch & mark noted on a diagram of the car. To look at the drawing you would think the car was a real beater -- they are of course just covering themselves. I examine it closely to be sure it isn't too much of an exaggeration and then take lots of photos of the car at the last minute. To state the obvious... thoroughly examine the unloaded car at the other end. Good luck. Geo _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/harrymague at aol.com From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Aug 12 10:16:05 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 12:16:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact References: <20100812151458.M4XOX.105839.root@hrndva-web15-z02> Message-ID: <2A8BF2D7A49E4244BEBB17C60DC0727E@Edscomputer> All, I can just hear Barry Manilow singing "Feelings". Next up is "Kum bay ah" Give it a rest already! Ed From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 12 10:25:20 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 09:25:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: References: <4C637D65.8050703@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <031c01cb3a3a$f5988a00$0301a8c0@randall> > I SIMPLY FORGOT TO EDIT CORECTLY MY REPLIES. Ok, Robert, that was your excuse then. BUT YOU ARE STILL DOING IT !! This isn't "forgetting", this is "failure to play nicely with others". And just to belabor the point, there are many thousands of us, while there is only one (well, only part of one actually as he does have a day job) MJB. How many hundreds of times do you suppose he has answered the same question? If he is somewhat less than perfectly polite when doing so; well, I can understand that. Randall From michael.stenhouse at c2i.net Thu Aug 12 11:00:06 2010 From: michael.stenhouse at c2i.net (STEN) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 19:00:06 +0200 Subject: [TR] OFF SPEC. IGNITION SWITCH Message-ID: <006c01cb3a3f$d111dab0$73359010$@c2i.net> Hi Folks, I have a question about the ignition switch on my 1973 TR6. The ignition switch is mounted underneath the dash just to the left of the steering wheel. I am led to believe that this is not standard. It definitely is not mounted as an integral part of a steering lock. Anyway, if anybody knows what this could be I would certainly like to know. It has a neutral position to the left which allows the radio to work. Is it a big job to mount a standard ignition switch with lock and how would I go about doing this? Best Regards, Michael In Norway. From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Aug 12 11:05:22 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 13:05:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mark Bradakis Honored by the FOT at THE HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX Message-ID: <8CD0857AF3CB057-1494-89E9@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com> TRIUMPH list: Mark Bradakis will be our guest at the HVGP in TOPEKA next week. Mark has made a MAJOR contribution to our hobby and we appreciate this.. If you come to Heartland Park next weekend, please stop in at the FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH PADDOCK AREA and meet Mark Bradakis. He will be hanging out with Kas Kastner and other cool people. Also, if you are a VTR member or associated with the FOT, you are eligible for a high quality event poster sponsored by the VTR and it's Pesident, Blake Discher. Joe A. From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Thu Aug 12 11:25:30 2010 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 13:25:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] OK, the IRS differential is shot. Now what? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7AC3774E-C9FA-43CC-B5AD-9B5AB5E64F20@mgcarclub.com> > At first it started with some whirling noises. If my Dad had been riding with you he probably would have warned you of bad bearings before you heard them. > Then it started grinding. > Leaving work today the car backed up about 4 feet and it felt like > I hit > something and stopped dead. Talk about your "clunk". Tomorrow it'll > come > home on a flatbed. I know this isn't going to be cheap. Since there seem to be a few British shops in San Diego I would look into that first. They will need a few special tools and I would like to know that they have rebuilt them before. However, since yours is locked up you may be searching the junk yards for the best one you can find anyway. (turning any of the input or drive flanges should be perfectly smooth) Some rear axles last forever and some don't. I wouldn't be afraid of another used one if you or someone else checks it out carefully. A Nissan diff will also be from a junk yard, may need to be rebuilt plus whatever it takes to put it in a TR. Sounds more expensive but I don't really know. Allen From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Thu Aug 12 11:36:25 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 13:36:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact In-Reply-To: <20100812151458.M4XOX.105839.root@hrndva-web15-z02> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438B979ACF4A@CMS01.winhosting.local> I see from a British tourist guide that we Canadians are very sensitive. I cried when I read the article. It's so unfair. Mark 1972 TR6 Montreal -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sent: August 12, 2010 11:15 AM To: Mark J Bradakis; TR6Quebec Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact Give it a rest already and stop being so sensitive. Enough. JVV ---- TR6Quebec wrote: > Mark, > > May I suggest you be a little more careful in you reply, even if you're > frustrated after a long and difficult day. From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu Aug 12 15:43:49 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 14:43:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] OFF SPEC. IGNITION SWITCH References: Message-ID: <000c01cb3a67$73bf9910$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Michael, Here is a link to the steering column lock/ignition switch part assembly available at the Roadster Factory. Regards, Bob http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/138.php > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 19:00:06 +0200 > From: "STEN" > Subject: [TR] OFF SPEC. IGNITION SWITCH > To: > Message-ID: <006c01cb3a3f$d111dab0$73359010$@c2i.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > Hi Folks, > I have a question about the ignition switch on my 1973 TR6. > The ignition switch is mounted underneath the dash just to the left of the > steering wheel. ~~~~~~~~~~ > >> Best Regards, >> Michael In Norway. / E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14880 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From pethier at comcast.net Thu Aug 12 12:46:51 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 18:46:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Mark Bradakis Honored by the FOT at THE HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX In-Reply-To: <8CD0857AF3CB057-1494-89E9@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1658200957.416244.1281638811062.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Well done. Mark's Email lists have been major factors in my enjoyment of cars and autocrossing over the last 22 years. I only got to meet him once, at the VTR in 1998. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: n197tr4 at cs.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 12:05:22 PM > Subject: [TR] Mark Bradakis Honored by the FOT at THE HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX > > TRIUMPH list: > > Mark Bradakis will be our guest at the HVGP in TOPEKA next week. > > Mark has made a MAJOR contribution to our hobby and we appreciate > this.. > > If you come to Heartland Park next weekend, please stop in at the > FRIENDS OF > TRIUMPH PADDOCK AREA and meet Mark Bradakis. > > He will be hanging out with Kas Kastner and other cool people. > > Also, if you are a VTR member or associated with the FOT, you are > eligible for > a high quality event poster sponsored by the VTR and it's Pesident, > Blake > Discher. > > Joe A. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Aug 12 13:18:50 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 12:18:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] OK, the IRS differential is shot. Now what? In-Reply-To: <7AC3774E-C9FA-43CC-B5AD-9B5AB5E64F20@mgcarclub.com> References: <7AC3774E-C9FA-43CC-B5AD-9B5AB5E64F20@mgcarclub.com> Message-ID: I had a young lad call me several months ago, he was driving his TR6 (either to or from Seattle) and suffered differential failure ... I am on the VTR helper list ... he had the car towed here and we removed the old diff ... NO oil ... He had to pay $750 for a rebuilt one, installed it and he was on his way ... Moral of the Story ... I bought a rebuilt Nissan Limited Slip from GoodParts ... for a little over $800 (used R200 and all mounting parts) ... simple installation ... better EVERYTHING ... So my adivce would be "Pay the $$$$" and get back to driving. >>At first it started with some whirling noises. >If my Dad had been riding with you he probably would have warned you >of bad bearings before you heard them. > >>Then it started grinding. >>Leaving work today the car backed up about 4 feet and it felt like I hit >>something and stopped dead. Talk about your "clunk". Tomorrow it'll come >>home on a flatbed. I know this isn't going to be cheap. >Since there seem to be a few British shops in San Diego I would look >into that first. They will need a few special tools and I would like >to know that they have rebuilt them before. However, since yours is >locked up you may be searching the junk yards for the best one you >can find anyway. (turning any of the input or drive flanges should >be perfectly smooth) Some rear axles last forever and some don't. I >wouldn't be afraid of another used one if you or someone else checks >it out carefully. > >A Nissan diff will also be from a junk yard, may need to be rebuilt >plus whatever it takes to put it in a TR. Sounds more expensive but >I don't really know. > -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 12 13:32:21 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 12:32:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] OK, the IRS differential is shot. Now what? In-Reply-To: <003201cb39c2$0aa2a120$1fe7e360$@rr.com> References: <003201cb39c2$0aa2a120$1fe7e360$@rr.com> Message-ID: <023301cb3a55$1638e650$42aab2f0$@rr.com> > 5. Try to repair it myself. How much is that? Depends a lot on just how bad things are inside. I did my Stag diff myself (which is nearly identical to the TR6), and it wasn't too bad. I was lucky, the gears were OK, so it just needed bearings, thrust washers, seals, etc. Seems to me it was around $150 for all the parts (with some creative shopping). I didn't use any "unobtanium" tools, just common shop tools that I already had (dial indicator, hydraulic press, micrometer, etc) and a few that I made for the purpose (mostly a big lever to help hold various things from turning). It did wind up taking me several weeks to complete the project, but that was mostly because I ordered the wrong bearing twice! Sorry I never wrote it up, but you can get some idea from the photos at http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260/TR3driver/Stag%20diff/ If the gears are damaged though, I would suggest sourcing a used one and then rebuilding it (which is actually what I did with the Stag). Just the ring & pinion run over $400 new, and I'm not sure if the other gears are even available new. Or, I believe the gears are common with other Triumph diffs, so maybe you can find a used diff for another car and use the gears from it. I've got several TR3A rear axles laying around, likely their gears are fine. -- Randall From dave at ranteer.com Thu Aug 12 13:37:48 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 14:37:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] OK, the IRS differential is shot. Now what? In-Reply-To: <7AC3774E-C9FA-43CC-B5AD-9B5AB5E64F20@mgcarclub.com> References: <7AC3774E-C9FA-43CC-B5AD-9B5AB5E64F20@mgcarclub.com> Message-ID: <12F90354A23A460ABD5E53281CFE9E98@ranteer.local> check out the goodparts solution. www.goodparts.com more expensive, yes. higher quality, longer lasting, yes -------------------------------------------------- From: "Allen Hess" Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 12:25 PM To: Subject: Re: [TR] OK, the IRS differential is shot. Now what? >> At first it started with some whirling noises. > If my Dad had been riding with you he probably would have warned you > of bad bearings before you heard them. From jgillis at tcd.ie Thu Aug 12 13:45:47 2010 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 20:45:47 +0100 Subject: [TR] Rough running TR2 Message-ID: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie> Hi all I have made some progress with my engine running problems, after some hours, two well versed Triumph bods, and lots of high tech equipment we discovered the following: All ignition parts in good health and working as they should. Valve clearances as they should. Good cylinder compression on all between 168 and 170 lbs, fuel reaching both carbs which are both balanced. What was discovered is very poor vacuum registered off the vacuum advance pipe, with air filters removed the front piston lifting poorly when you try to increase revs and back one is lifting but tends to "dance" a little. The car will start no problem but does not want to rev, the only way is to very slowly and carefully increase the revs and then it will not run clean, hunting and wanting to die. With a colour tune on it was almost impossible to adjust to the proper bunsen blue, with erratic colour and flashes. The consensus is an air leak in perhaps in the inlet, spraying with WD40 did not show anything. Any advice???? John From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu Aug 12 17:26:17 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 16:26:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] OFF SPEC. IGNITION SWITCH Message-ID: <003401cb3a75$c4133990$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Or Rimmer Bros. UK http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006872 Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: ; Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 2:43 PM Subject: [TR] OFF SPEC. IGNITION SWITCH > Michael, > Here is a link to the steering column lock/ignition switch part assembly > available at the Roadster Factory. > Regards, > Bob > > http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/138.php > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14880 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From allegrorover at mac.com Thu Aug 12 15:29:58 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 15:29:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spotted in Santa Fe Message-ID: List, I spotted a bright yellow TR3 driving through the square in Old Town Santa Fe, I tried to catch up to him but only got the photo shown below. Anyone on the list? It sounded real nice, I would have liked to speak to him but couldn't find the car again. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com http://gallery.me.com/allegrorover#101914 From allegrorover at mac.com Thu Aug 12 15:34:41 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 15:34:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Spotted in Santa Fe References: Message-ID: OOPS sorry wrong gallery, the correct one is below.....must be the altitude > > > Subject: Spotted in Santa Fe > > List, > I spotted a bright yellow TR3 driving through the square in Old Town Santa Fe, I tried to catch up to him but only got the photo shown below. > Anyone on the list? > It sounded real nice, I would have liked to speak to him but couldn't find the car again. > > Tony Cascio > 58 TR3A > TS27093L > allegrorover at mac.com > > > http://gallery.me.com/allegrorover/101922 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 12 15:52:14 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 14:52:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rough running TR2 In-Reply-To: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie> References: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <026c01cb3a68$a2a8c390$e7fa4ab0$@rr.com> > What was > discovered is very poor vacuum registered off the vacuum advance pipe, With no load on the engine, there should be almost no vacuum at the advance fitting. The port is deliberately arranged so the throttle must be partially open to expose it to manifold vacuum. > with > air filters removed the front piston lifting poorly when you try to > increase revs What happens when you try to lift and release the pistons with your finger (engine off) ? With the damper plunger installed, there should be a very definite resistance to movement, but "oily" and smooth with no sign of grit or dragging. Then when you release the piston, it should fall quickly and land with an audible 'click'. If memory serves, the early TR2 carbs had small holes through the brass plugs for the damper plungers, which served to vent the internal chamber. Later carbs had this vent incorporated in the dome, and so no vent through the plug. It's important that there be some vent. Also, the pistons are matched to the domes. If they have gotten inadvertently swapped, you may have one that moves too easily (too much clearance to the dome) while the other drags (too little clearance). Maybe someone will have the link to the video of John Twist demonstrating how to test for that. You might try to look at the bottom edge of the manifold where it is bolted to the head. (I know, not an easy task!) The cylinder block actually sticks out beyond the surface of the head, and the manifold can sometimes foul on the block, creating a huge air leak at that point. But from your description, I doubt an air leak is the problem. Air leaks tend to be most noticeable at idle (when air flow is lowest) and have relatively little effect once the throttle is opened (because relatively more of the air goes through the carbs). What happens if you lift the pistons with the engine running? Were the jets & needles replaced as part of the rebuild? Are we sure they are both the correct part? The TR2 used .090" jets & needles, while the TR3-4 used .100". Some vendors may have forgotten this, or the parts may have just been in the wrong bin. -- Randall From bjzwissler at gmail.com Thu Aug 12 15:57:28 2010 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 17:57:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] OK, the IRS differential is shot. Now what? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C646E48.6090906@gmail.com> Unless you've got some experience with gearbox's or diff's, I'd pay someone to rebuild it, but R&R it myself. Removing is purely a nuts and bolts job. Flange bolts at the three input/output shafts and the nuts that fasten it to the car. You'll need a floor jack to support it while you loosen the attachment bolts and then lower it. I don't know that you'd have to have a British Car shop do the diff rebuild work. Any tranny/diff shop should be capable. I don't see anything unique about them. They'd probably let you source the parts since they won't want to mess with finding them. If you remove it and open it up you may be able to tell visually what's gone bad and then look up the parts cost. Plan on new bearings regardless of what gears may be bad. I've often found that bearings can purchased cheaper at a local bearing supply place (Bearing, Inc. around here) - they're often standard sizes. Looks like TRF does the rebuild for $1,300 - not cheap. I've done seals and minor other repairs which just take a gear puller and maybe a case spreader. I've been lucky and not needed a case spreader for any I've done (MG Midget, TR4A and TR8). The most complicated job I did was replacing the limited slip clutch plates in the TR8's Salisbury LSD unit. If you need a new pinion/ring gear that takes a little experience to get right. You'll also need a dial gauge, but those are cheap these days. All I did to my TR4A diff was to replace all the seals and luckily its been fine. Anyway, my two cents worth. Others feel free to disagree..... Ben.... Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 2005 Harley Davidson VROD On 8/11/2010 11:05 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 18:59:46 -0700 > From: "John& Pat Donnelly" > Subject: [TR] OK, the IRS differential is shot. Now what? > To: > Message-ID:<003201cb39c2$0aa2a120$1fe7e360$@rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > At first it started with some whirling noises. Then it started grinding. > Leaving work today the car backed up about 4 feet and it felt like I hit > something and stopped dead. Talk about your "clunk". Tomorrow it'll come > home on a flatbed. I know this isn't going to be cheap. > > > > So, what are my options? > > 1. Get it repaired by a local TR repair shop, assuming they have the tools. > How much is that? > > 2. Update (upgrade) to a Nissan differential ala Bob Danielson. How much is > that? > > 3. Have the guys at TRF repair it. How much is that? > > 4. Go to a british junk yard and get somebody else's junk. How much is that? > > 5. Try to repair it myself. How much is that? > > 6. Other. How much is that? > > > > Recommendations? I've had the car since 1970 and would hate to part with it. > The list above is in my order of preference, but bow to the wisdom of the > experienced ones. > > > > Johnnie in beautiful San Diego > > '67 TR4A IRS > > '71 Volvo 1800E From tr3 at roadrunner.com Thu Aug 12 17:54:26 2010 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (HANS DEFERRANTE) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 16:54:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Replicate Cal. License Plates? - for 1961 TR3A References: <7C9E5D78-089F-47A3-B7E9-6F38C1C8049B@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <0BFFC009-D916-4D26-A360-005BD1B86C0D@roadrunner.com> > These plates were originally assigned to this car and I have the old > registration to proof it. However, in the mean time, I took new plates > out and was told by the DMV that alI I would have to do is come in > with the 2 plates and the original registration (which I then did not > yet have) to get it reinstated. The problem is to get the clerk to > accept the second plate as original. For that it needs to be a good > METAL replica. I should have mentioned that this TR3 is a 1961 TR3A, and had this one plate on it. The registration slip (expired in 1986) came with it. Someone during a recent drive mentioned that there was someone out there, I think he said N. Y., who replicates metal plates for that purpose. I have not been able to find him on the internet. Does anyone have any info.? Hans '61 TR3A From mark at bradakis.com Thu Aug 12 18:10:14 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 18:10:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] Mark Bradakis Honored by the FOT at THE HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX In-Reply-To: <8CD0857AF3CB057-1494-89E9@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD0857AF3CB057-1494-89E9@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C648D66.2090805@bradakis.com> Gee, it sounds so official! And interesting timing. A few folks on the Triumph list might have some less complementary comments regarding my handling of Team.Net. So it goes. By this time next week I'll be zipping down the road in my little red Honda, heading for Heartland Park. Should be a good weekend! mjb. From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Thu Aug 12 18:17:58 2010 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 20:17:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Impossible to reply or contact Message-ID: <004801cb3a7c$fbe362d0$f3aa2870$@net> Robert, This is akin to a motoring experience. You drive down the road on the maiden voyage of the TR6 that you have personally restored. Not 10 miles from your house you get a flat tire. You pull to the side of the road and have to change it, with SUV's whizzing past. 30 min later you are heading back home. Dirty, sweaty and understandably miffed. You reflect, however, that you should perhaps put a small towel and a wheel chock in the trunk, for when it happens again. Next day, you are happier and still love your Triumph. You are also wiser. The bad experience can now be forgotten. Welcome to the list and I sincerely hope that you will stay. Hey! Safety in numbers! Cheers, Adrian From tr4zest at gmail.com Thu Aug 12 18:20:28 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 20:20:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Replies to list Message-ID: MJB is a brick; we all appreciate his efforts and time. I'm 4 years on the list; I've donated twice because I fully recognise that my car is better for all I've learned through you, Listerati, and Randall especially, than otherwise. ... but some of my replies fail to go through. Its not only about message size, it may be my IP, I don't know. Some short messages fail too (not always a bad result may case, LOL) Nevertheless, we could all be better at 'snipping': let's commit to snipping (not sniping, btw). *If replying to a long message that we have all just read, cut the message to the first sentence, or so, to confirm context and then delete the rest and insert . We'd all appreciate it, I think. Mark especially!* I get the digest and its 65% redundant DNA that we've all just read, as messages beget replies that beget replies and its all repeated over and over. There is a better way: Let's people. (Mark: Brick = a reliable, dependable, popular associate in UK slang, at least where I grew up in Liverpool.) Cheers, all Brian - who needs to trim his car pool - Triumph TR4 14455L (O) 1962 BMW 328i 1999 Lexus Rx 300 1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 1998 Aston Martin DB7 2001 Vantage Volante Audi A4 3.0 Convertible 2005 From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 12 18:37:45 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 17:37:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Spotted in Santa Fe In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <878515.33228.qm@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Wow Tony that looks just like my car. the Corvette yellow is very non stock. i hope its not my car, as im at Bonneville right now and i hope the car is back in Temecula California. if you do get to meet him id love to see what color he used for his interior. maybe a photo of that also? Frank To: email list Sent: Thu, August 12, 2010 2:29:58 PM Subject: [TR] Spotted in Santa Fe List, I spotted a bright yellow TR3 driving through the square in Old Town Santa Fe, I tried to catch up to him but only got the photo shown below. Anyone on the list? It sounded real nice, I would have liked to speak to him but couldn't find the car again. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com http://gallery.me.com/allegrorover#101914 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Aug 12 18:37:47 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 20:37:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mark Bradakis Honored by the FOT at THE HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX In-Reply-To: <4C648D66.2090805@bradakis.com> References: <8CD0857AF3CB057-1494-89E9@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C645B9B.8716.B69B2E5@localhost> On 12 Aug 2010 at 18:10, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Gee, it sounds so official! Thank you, Mark! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Aug 12 18:43:53 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 00:43:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Lotus LBC? In-Reply-To: <4C633E9C.3070709@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1207738279.1380996.1281660233830.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Someone mentioned to me this morning that they thought the Lotus was modeled after a LBC, but didn't know which one. ISTR reading something about the origin of the LBC body, but can't remember what it was. Anybody? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Aug 12 19:04:47 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 01:04:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Five years ago, I installed a cardboard radiator duct in my TR3A. Did it as right as I could, spray painting it multiple coats with undercarriage spray. Disintegrated last year. Just bought a new one, but plan to use it as a template to build a longer lasting one. Any thoughts as to the proper material? Some kind of readily available mylar, something like that???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Aug 12 19:28:23 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 20:28:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lotus LBC? References: <1207738279.1380996.1281660233830.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > Someone mentioned to me this morning that they thought the Lotus was > modeled after a LBC, but didn't know which one. > > ISTR reading something about the origin of the LBC body, but can't > remember what it was. Anybody? > Which Lotus are you referring to? There were many over the years. If you are referring to the first car Colin Chapman built, I was always under the impression that it was a highly modified Austin 7 (or "Baby Austin"). I think subsequent cars up to the Mark V were based on the Austin 7 chassis and running gear, but with different engines and new bodies. The Mark VI was the first with a space frame, I think. Mike (who would like a Lotus, one day) From wbeech at flash.net Thu Aug 12 19:29:33 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 19:29:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rough running TR2 In-Reply-To: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie> References: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <897124741A5F49F885F65AAE002D354A@bboffice> John, Sounds like it may be starving for fuel, double check your float and inlet valves for the correct height and possible sticking. You did not mention ignition timing, double check this as well. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 1:46 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Rough running TR2 Hi all I have made some progress with my engine running problems, after some hours, two well versed Triumph bods, and lots of high tech equipment we discovered the following: All ignition parts in good health and working as they should. Valve clearances as they should. Good cylinder compression on all between 168 and 170 lbs, fuel reaching both carbs which are both balanced. What was discovered is very poor vacuum registered off the vacuum advance pipe, with air filters removed the front piston lifting poorly when you try to increase revs and back one is lifting but tends to "dance" a little. The car will start no problem but does not want to rev, the only way is to very slowly and carefully increase the revs and then it will not run clean, hunting and wanting to die. With a colour tune on it was almost impossible to adjust to the proper bunsen blue, with erratic colour and flashes. The consensus is an air leak in perhaps in the inlet, spraying with WD40 did not show anything. Any advice???? John _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From leejohn7 at gmail.com Thu Aug 12 19:30:43 2010 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 18:30:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mark Bradakis Honored by the FOT at THE HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX In-Reply-To: <4C645B9B.8716.B69B2E5@localhost> References: <8CD0857AF3CB057-1494-89E9@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com> <4C648D66.2090805@bradakis.com> <4C645B9B.8716.B69B2E5@localhost> Message-ID: Thank you from me as well. I have relied on the lists for the improvements (?) I've made and attempted on four Triumphs. Couldn't have done it without you, Mark. John Howard On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 5:37 PM, Jim Muller wrote: > On 12 Aug 2010 at 18:10, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > > > Gee, it sounds so official! > > Thank you, Mark! > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com From fishplate at charter.net Thu Aug 12 19:38:49 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 21:38:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.wes tchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie> <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: At 09:04 PM 8/12/2010, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >Just bought a new one, but plan to use it as a template to build a >longer lasting one. Any thoughts as to the proper material? Some >kind of readily available mylar, something like that???? Do you want it to look correct, or work? I'd be tempted to wait until the second weekend in November, when tons of corrugated plastic sheet can be had on the roadsides for the cost of stopping and collecting it. Maybe some flat black Krylon to cover it, maybe not. Depends on whether your guy won or lost... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Aug 12 19:53:06 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 20:53:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rough running TR2 References: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie> <897124741A5F49F885F65AAE002D354A@bboffice> Message-ID: <5CD5A09C89A7472CA5A92DBFC5C1AA9B@trigeni.com> > revs and back one is lifting but tends to "dance" a little. The car will > start no problem but does not want to rev, the only way is to very slowly > and carefully increase the revs and then it will not run clean, hunting > and > wanting to die. With a colour tune on it was almost impossible to adjust > to > the proper bunsen blue, with erratic colour and flashes. The consensus is > an What kind of oil is in the carb dashpots? If it is too heavy, the car will behave exactly as you have described. I find 3 - in - 1 household oil is perfect for my car. Mike From mark at bradakis.com Thu Aug 12 20:09:17 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 20:09:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lotus LBC? In-Reply-To: <1207738279.1380996.1281660233830.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1207738279.1380996.1281660233830.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C64A94D.5060401@bradakis.com> terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Someone mentioned to me this morning that they thought the Lotus was modeled after a LBC > The Lotus is not modeled after a LBC, it *IS* a LBC. Perhaps your friend was thinking of the Mazda Miata being modeled after the Lotus Elan. mjb. From FrankB at saceboard.sa.gov.au Thu Aug 12 20:17:00 2010 From: FrankB at saceboard.sa.gov.au (Biedermann, Frank (SACE Board)) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 11:47:00 +0930 Subject: [TR] OFF SPEC. IGNITION SWITCH In-Reply-To: <006c01cb3a3f$d111dab0$73359010$@c2i.net> References: <006c01cb3a3f$d111dab0$73359010$@c2i.net> Message-ID: Hi Michael, Please forgive me if I confuse you further, but not all TR6s had an ignition lock on the steering wheel. Certainly my '69 RHD petrol injection model didn't. If the ignition switch is located in the switch plinth (along with the choke and heater controls) above the gear stick, then it may well be correct. I don't know when/if there was a changeover to integrated ignition switch/steering locks in European models, though. And I also don't know if yours is a LHD or RHD - if it's a LHD and the ignition switch is on the left of the steering column mounted underneath the dash then it's not correct... Hopefully someone else knows some of the missing details... Frank Biedermann 69 TR6 PI Adelaide, Australia -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STEN Sent: Friday, 13 August 2010 2:30 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] OFF SPEC. IGNITION SWITCH Hi Folks, I have a question about the ignition switch on my 1973 TR6. The ignition switch is mounted underneath the dash just to the left of the steering wheel. I am led to believe that this is not standard. It definitely is not mounted as an integral part of a steering lock. Anyway, if anybody knows what this could be I would certainly like to know. It has a neutral position to the left which allows the radio to work. Is it a big job to mount a standard ignition switch with lock and how would I go about doing this? Best Regards, Michael In Norway. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frankb at saceboard.sa.gov.au From wbeech at flash.net Thu Aug 12 20:22:02 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 20:22:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Wood door frame on TR3 (what wood wasit?) Message-ID: <932D54FAF7A34FE5B1E0538BA46280EE@bboffice> This is a follow up to the earlier thread on wood parts, Gary N. has sent me his old wood parts to replicate. I noticed that most of the parts are mahogany with one of the top member being possibly ash some other hardwood. Does anyone know for sure what the correct species of wood for these door parts is? JonMac, this might be your arena... I am thinking that I will use soft maple as a good stable hardwood that will give plenty more years of good service. TIA, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Aug 12 20:40:09 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 19:40:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: References: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie> <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: On 8/12/10, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > At 09:04 PM 8/12/2010, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Do you want it to look correct, or work? I'd be tempted to wait > until the second weekend in November, when tons of corrugated plastic > sheet can be had on the roadsides for the cost of stopping and > collecting it. Our (and many states) have a primary in a couple of weeks -- there's one candidate in particular I have my eye on (really really big signs) for a project I have in mind. But Terry -- I wonder why yours failed so soon. My ductwork is certainly more than 20 years old and looks nearly new. It gets wet once in awhile but is painted so it sheds water. Geo From spitlist at cox.net Thu Aug 12 21:19:19 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 20:19:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wood door frame on TR3 (what wood wasit?) In-Reply-To: <932D54FAF7A34FE5B1E0538BA46280EE@bboffice> References: <932D54FAF7A34FE5B1E0538BA46280EE@bboffice> Message-ID: <57F91C7669894439956613EE3A62AD49@joepentiumnew> It was pretty common for wood structural parts to be made of ash. It is strong yet lighter than oak. I had a MGTD and the wood parts were Ash so I suspect that the TR3 also had them. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 7:22 PM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: [TR] Wood door frame on TR3 (what wood wasit?) This is a follow up to the earlier thread on wood parts, Gary N. has sent me his old wood parts to replicate. I noticed that most of the parts are mahogany with one of the top member being possibly ash some other hardwood. Does anyone know for sure what the correct species of wood for these door parts is? JonMac, this might be your arena... I am thinking that I will use soft maple as a good stable hardwood that will give plenty more years of good service. TIA, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From pcaffrey at ymail.com Thu Aug 12 21:24:07 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 20:24:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <553552.14879.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> >Just bought a new one, but plan to use it as a template to build a longer >lasting one. Terry, You should replicate in metal....I've had a similar experience. I had my old tattered duct replaced with a new one. However, it was too small for my TR4A. It was the only new duct I could find, but happened to be a TR4 duct. Then, I found an original (used of course) TR4A duct and it was far superior to the new one. It was more solid even at its advanced age compared to the new duct, plus it fit to the radiator better. The duct was cleaned and painted with a semi-gloss....I did attempt to get the original duct replicated at the school I work at. The metal shop took it on as a project. The project got dumped due to budget cuts, layoffs, etc. The instructor did tell me that sheet metal was the best way to replicate. The advice was not surprising, since he runs the metal shop at school! If my current duct ever goes bad, I will go the metal route. Pat TR4A '67 1CTC/72746-L _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com From pethier at comcast.net Thu Aug 12 22:53:35 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 04:53:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Mark Bradakis Honored by the FOT at THE HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX In-Reply-To: <1232711695.443967.1281675195050.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1235903006.443975.1281675215274.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> From: "Mark J Bradakis" > A few folks on > the > Triumph list might have some less complementary comments regarding > my handling of Team.Net. They can kiss my carbbies. Your operation has been the best damned thing on the Internet for a couple of decades. > By this time next week I'll be zipping down the road in my little red > Honda, heading for Heartland Park. B Should be a good weekend! Wish I could be there with you. Too many commitments to allow me to take the time off to bring uncle jack to the track 500 miles away. Had to take an unplanned day of vacation yesterday to get the Super Seven on the Passport trailer to its new home in Massachusetts. Luckily I got the call from the trailer guy. The new front axle for MY trailer is in, so I could use the time after the Passport guy left to drag my trailer down there. I'm coming right down to the wire on having enough vacation time to do the Lotus Owners Gathering this fall. VTR is out of the question. Next year, VTR in Colorado will be the priority. Hope to see you there. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From pethier at comcast.net Thu Aug 12 23:18:05 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 05:18:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Replies to list In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1818777421.444436.1281676685071.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > From: "Brian Jones" > > (Mark: Brick = a reliable, dependable, popular associate in UK slang, > at > least where I grew up in Liverpool.) Not just Liverpool. In many English books I have read, I have seen one character tell another in times of stress: "You've been a brick. An absolute brick." Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Aug 13 01:15:53 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 02:15:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: <553552.14879.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <553552.14879.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100813071507.A1781187662@autox.team.net> I like the plastic coated aluminum that the circle track guys used for their bodies. Don't have to paint it if you get a color you like, and doesn't corrode. Easy to keep clean, etc. Tony Drews At 10:24 PM 8/12/2010, P Caffrey wrote: > >Just bought a new one, but plan to use it as a template to build a longer > >lasting one. > >Terry, >You should replicate in metal....I've had a similar >experience. I had my old > >shop at school! If my >current duct ever goes bad, I will go the metal route. >Pat >TR4A '67 >1CTC/72746-L From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Aug 13 07:14:22 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 09:14:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mark Bradakis Honored by the FOT at THE HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX In-Reply-To: <8CD0857AF3CB057-1494-89E9@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD0857AF3CB057-1494-89E9@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <002501cb3ae9$72065640$561302c0$@net> Good Job (keep it up) Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of n197tr4 at cs.com Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 1:05 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Mark Bradakis Honored by the FOT at THE HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX TRIUMPH list: Mark Bradakis will be our guest at the HVGP in TOPEKA next week. Mark has made a MAJOR contribution to our hobby and we appreciate this.. If you come to Heartland Park next weekend, please stop in at the FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH PADDOCK AREA and meet Mark Bradakis. He will be hanging out with Kas Kastner and other cool people. Also, if you are a VTR member or associated with the FOT, you are eligible for a high quality event poster sponsored by the VTR and it's Pesident, Blake Discher. Joe A. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 13 08:10:56 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 10:10:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie>, <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > Just bought a new one, but plan to use it as a template to build a longer lasting one. Any thoughts as to the proper material? Some kind of readily available mylar, something like that???? The duct on The Blue TR3 is maybe 20 years old and in fine condition. I made a duct for the TR3 racecar from 2024-T3 aircraft aluminum alloy .025 thick and polished it. Overkill, I know, but it looked cool and I'm just an aviation guy, that's all there is to it. Not what you'd call readily available, I got the sheet from Charlie Vogelsong's Dillsburg Aeroplane Works. John H. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Aug 13 08:27:50 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 10:27:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I went to a local metal recycle outfit (sell used bits). Bought 3 pieces of aluminum (roughly1/16"); trimmed to match the cardboard and had it powdercoated. Need to have metal break (18" sufficient) and something to either punch or drill the holes for the overrider bracket, etc. (bending & holes before pc). I even riveted all together before taking to pc. If you have access to a commercial metal break, you probably could make it out of a single piece but will have a bit of waste. Haven't installed it yet, but will probably put some kind of padding on the backside where it will be up against the radiator so that it won't 'rattle'. I'll get a couple images this weekend and send them to you. Carl > > Just bought a new one, but plan to use it as a template to build a longer > lasting one. Any thoughts as to the proper material? Some kind of > readily available mylar, something like that???? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Aug 13 08:33:34 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 10:33:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: References: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie> <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E3758BE655348E5989CCCC6256950B6@CarlPC> Could it be that the cardboard had separated before it was painted? That was the case for me. The 'open edge' acted like a wick and pulled the moisture up into the panel, effectively destroying it form the inside out.... C > > But Terry -- I wonder why yours failed so soon. My ductwork is > certainly more than 20 years old and looks nearly new. It gets wet > once in awhile but is painted so it sheds water. > > Geo From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Aug 13 08:49:45 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 10:49:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] PERFORMANCE TRIUMPH CAMSHAFT DESIGNER TO MAKE APPEARANCE AT TOPEKA Message-ID: <8CD090DE7E72EBB-2268-9@webmail-m091.sysops.aol.com> TRIUMPH OWNERS: LARRY YOUNG, camshaft designer will be bringing a sample to place on display and for discussion. Several of us are running Larry's camshafts and we are very pleased with the design. He will be in the paddock with us during the weekend and available to discuss custom camshaft designs. There's a lot of talent in the FOT....USE IT! Joe A. From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Aug 13 09:08:10 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 08:08:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: References: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie>, <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mai l.comcast.net> Message-ID: Not LBC, but Car Stuff and I think appropriate ... My Boss at NASA had a Model T Ford, which he had restored and drove quite often. Some front suspension part (I don' remember what) broke, and he could not find a suitable replacement. Took it to our machine shop (we were in the process of building the Shuttle Simulator at Moffett Field) and asked if they could make one. Of course they could, and a week or so later they presented him a new, shiny, very light part. When asked they told him it was made from Titanium... the guy shrugged "well that was all we had" ... > > >I made a duct for the TR3 racecar from 2024-T3 aircraft aluminum alloy .025 >thick and polished it. Overkill, I know, but it looked cool and I'm just an >aviation guy, that's all there is to it. Not what you'd call readily >available, I got the sheet from Charlie Vogelsong's Dillsburg Aeroplane >Works. > >John H. -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Fri Aug 13 11:46:35 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 13:46:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: References: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie>, , <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mai, l.comcast.net> , Message-ID: > When asked they told him it was made from Titanium... the guy > shrugged "well that was all we had" ... That's what they used to call a Government Job at the aircraft plant. John H. From acekraut11 at aol.com Fri Aug 13 11:49:31 2010 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (Acekraut11) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 13:49:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: References: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie>, <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD092704BBAFB6-CFC-23C@webmail-m070.sysops.aol.com> Sooooo, that is why the space shuttle is so expensive! Sorry, couldnt resist. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: Bill To: John Herrera ; terryrs at comcast.net; Triumph List Sent: Fri, Aug 13, 2010 11:08 am Subject: Re: [TR] radiator duct material Not LBC, but Car Stuff and I think appropriate ... My Boss at NASA had a Model T Ford, which he had restored and drove quite often. Some front suspension part (I don' remember what) broke, and he could not find a suitable replacement. Took it to our machine shop (we were in the process of building the Shuttle Simulator at Moffett Field) and asked if they could make one. Of course they could, and a week or so later they presented him a new, shiny, very light part. When asked they told him it was made from Titanium... the guy shrugged "well that was all we had" ... From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Aug 13 13:59:17 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 15:59:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: References: <63F2FFC5-733F-44DA-8661-B4728055506A@tcd.ie>, , <1513348201.1381752.1281661487134.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mai, l.comcast.net> , Message-ID: Be nice guys... they had to test the equipment to make sure it worked.... :) >> When asked they told him it was made from Titanium... the guy >> shrugged "well that was all we had" ... > > That's what they used to call a Government Job at the aircraft plant. > > John H. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Aug 13 14:14:32 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 16:14:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Portland OR ebay listing Message-ID: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC> estate sale -buy it now $350 NFI Someone may think this a good deal... wrong corner of the country for me. eBay Item number: 230510321240 From tr4zest at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 16:03:39 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:03:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material Message-ID: Terry, Whether you go with aluminium or other material, I would suggest you first fit the replacement duct to your car so that you may see what adjustments are needed for the best fit for your bespoke upgrade, then use the relacement as a pattern, with adjustments noted. I wish my duct were 0.5" deeper so there would be a better 'seal' at the radiator. Maybe my rad mounts slightly further back than others? We know these cars were less than uniform. Don't blindly copy the replacement part. If I were to make one in aluminium, I'd rivet on draught-excluder bristle strips to provide the seal to the rad yet allow the engine to move without bashing the aluminium. It will be a productive project, I think. Cheers, Brian From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Aug 13 17:51:19 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 23:51:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] radiator duct material In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1054353380.1424486.1281743479689.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Thank you, everyone for your responses. Aluminum seems like the best material. One thought was to use POR 15. I've used it for the frame, and it is certainly waterproof! Terry From mark at bradakis.com Fri Aug 13 18:36:02 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:36:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Healeys] Very Nice Triumph TR3B For Sale Message-ID: <4C65E4F2.6030907@bradakis.com> -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [Healeys] Very Nice Triumph TR3B For Sale Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 14:16:03 -0700 From: Jonas Payne To: Healeys http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1963-Triumph-TR3B-Fully-Restored-Last-Cut-Door-TR3s-/200507938432?pt=US_Cars_Trucks I'm moving this car on for a close friend, NFI in the actual sale. Did some sorting on the car and know it well at this point. Now, I just want it out of my garage. My wife has been patient, but needs to get her car back under cover. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From chandler.rick at comcast.net Fri Aug 13 18:48:03 2010 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 17:48:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pushrod and tappet trouble on my TR3A Message-ID: <345D002DCE1D4AD0B657FE7C2AF1CC78@ricksoffice> My TR3A finally clocked over the 500 mile mark since its rebuild, and I re-torqued the head (each nut needed another half-flat or so). To reach the center nuts I had to remove the rocker assembly. When I finished the retorque job and went to refit the rockers, I saw that one of the pushrods was standing proud of all the others by 1-1/2 inch. It acts as though it is hung up on the top of the tappet; no amount of persuasion (gentle) or engine rotation will cause it to return to its normal position. I lifted one of the other pushrods to feel what a proper seat felt like, and now IT is standing proud by 1-1/2 inch and will not retreat to its normal position. The rods, when lifted out, show an inch or so of oil on them, so they appear to be in the tappets. Could the tappets be hung up above the cam? Rick Chandler 2414 73rd Avenue SE Mercer Island WA 98040 Home 206 236 8662 Cell 206 909 8408 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] From dave at ranteer.com Fri Aug 13 19:09:54 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:09:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Portland OR ebay listing In-Reply-To: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC> References: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC> Message-ID: I think in this case you would be understating if you said there was a ton of stuff -------------------------------------------------- From: "Carl TR" Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 3:14 PM To: "Triumph List" ; ; Subject: [SPAM] [TR] Portland OR ebay listing > estate sale -buy it now $350 > NFI > > Someone may think this a good deal... wrong corner of the country for me. > > > eBay Item number: 230510321240 > > _______________________________________________ From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Aug 13 19:52:04 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:52:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Pushrod and tappet trouble on my TR3A References: <345D002DCE1D4AD0B657FE7C2AF1CC78@ricksoffice> Message-ID: <123626A7E8794B03A50EB08DA6E61139@trigeni.com> > the tappets. Could the tappets be hung up above the cam? > Yes! The oil film between the bottom of the pushrod and its seat in the tappet provides sufficient suction that, when you lift the pushrod, you can sometimes lift the tappet right out of its bore. That is what has happened. Mike From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Aug 13 20:25:51 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 22:25:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Pushrod and tappet trouble on my TR3A In-Reply-To: <345D002DCE1D4AD0B657FE7C2AF1CC78@ricksoffice> References: <345D002DCE1D4AD0B657FE7C2AF1CC78@ricksoffice> Message-ID: <8CD096F25E68C9B-5F48-4808@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Rick ...re-torqued the head (each nut needed another half-flat or so). ...I saw that one of the pushrods was standing proud of all the others by 1-1/2 inch. It acts as though it is hung up on the top of the tappet; no amount of persuasion (gentle) or engine rotation will cause it to return to its normal position. I lifted one of the other pushrods to feel what a proper seat felt like, and now IT is standing proud by 1-1/2 inch and will not retreat to its normal position. The rods, when lifted out, show an inch or so of oil on them, so they appear to be in the tappets. Could the tappets be hung up above the cam? ==AM== It sounds almost as if one (maybe two now) of the tappets lifted up and are now sitting crooked. It's been too many years since I've been inside a 3A engine, so I can't offer any advice, but hopefully you can get it/them back in place without any other drastic measures. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 13 21:19:06 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:19:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pushrod and tappet trouble on my TR3A In-Reply-To: <345D002DCE1D4AD0B657FE7C2AF1CC78@ricksoffice> References: <345D002DCE1D4AD0B657FE7C2AF1CC78@ricksoffice> Message-ID: <013b01cb3b5f$74788b20$0301a8c0@randall> > Could the tappets be hung up above the cam? Unfortunately, yes. The tappets normally ride in a bore in the block, but if they are lifted above the bore (by, say, lifting on the pushrod) then they will typically cock to one side and not go back into the bore. Did that myself, just a few months ago. I eventually succeeded in coaxing the lifter back into it's bore, but it wasn't easy. My basic technique was to lift up on the pushrod a bit (no more than 1" or so), and wiggle it around to try to work the lifter back into it's bore. I also had a small light that I could stick down the hole to try to see what was happening (actually a pickup tool similar to this one: http://tinyurl.com/2clplds ). Probably only took 20 minutes or so to coax it back in, but it seemed longer. The alternative, of course, is to remove the head. Randall From chandler.rick at comcast.net Fri Aug 13 21:40:28 2010 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:40:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] My pushrod delemma Message-ID: Thanks to all of you who PM'd me. The tappets were indeed cocked above the cam, and each required manipulation with a steel rod to allow them to drop back onto the cam. It's fixed and the rocker assembly is in place, so I'm back to where I was (a smooth running TR3 with an oil change) before I started the retorque fiasco. What a list!!! Rick in Seattle 1960 Tr3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special 1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3 From tom628 at verizon.net Fri Aug 13 23:54:41 2010 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 01:54:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] radiator duct material References: <1054353380.1424486.1281743479689.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3381876297464B6AAE5588CB736A65BC@Toms> Terry, if you go with aluminum, you might want to try 6061 instead of 2024. I think you'll find it easier to work, and i believe it's also a little cheaper. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Brian Jones" Cc: "email list" Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 7:51 PM Subject: Re: [TR] radiator duct material > Thank you, everyone for your responses. Aluminum seems like the best > material. One thought was to use POR 15. I've used it for the frame, and > it is certainly waterproof! > > Terry > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Aug 14 06:38:08 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:38:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Portland OR ebay listing Message-ID: <7A001EC41A284D639138347D80952DE6@CarlPC> This 'auction' ended about 6:30 (Eastern) last night. If it was someone from these lists - let us know sometime so that we know that there is another source for parts. Thanks C ----- Original Message ----- From: Carl TR To: Triumph List ; british-cars at autox.team.net ; autojumble at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 4:14 PM Subject: Portland OR ebay listing estate sale -buy it now $350 NFI Someone may think this a good deal... wrong corner of the country for me. eBay Item number: 230510321240 From brad.kahler at 141.com Sat Aug 14 08:42:19 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 10:42:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 bent rear hub Message-ID: Just found that the left rear hub on my TR4 is bent. Looks like someone in the past used a hydraulic press improperly to remove it from the axle. Has anyone had any luck straightening a bent hub? Thanks, Brad 1963 TR4 From spitlist at cox.net Sat Aug 14 09:28:18 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:28:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 bent rear hub In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <42DBCFC546324370BDEC35980CF6D48C@joepentiumnew> Brad, I had a bent hub once on Huxley (the Red Mk1 Spit). But it was caused by a Lexus SUV backing into the driver side door and putting so much force on the rear passenger side wheel against the curb, that it bent. I would venture to say that it would probably be time to look for a new hub. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 7:42 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR4 bent rear hub Just found that the left rear hub on my TR4 is bent. Looks like someone in the past used a hydraulic press improperly to remove it from the axle. Has anyone had any luck straightening a bent hub? Thanks, Brad 1963 TR4 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From peter at nosimport.com Sat Aug 14 10:47:40 2010 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 11:47:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tractor anyone? Message-ID: <201008140947327.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> I just looked at a 1948 Massey Ferguson TE20 tractor. Made in Coventry by Standard. Has manure bucket, grader blade, and plow. Runs. TRiumph engine 85mm bore I think. 6 volt Lucas electrics, mostly. Near Madison Wisconsin. Peter C From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Aug 14 11:28:55 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 13:28:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] RADIATOR DUCT MATERIAL Message-ID: <8CD09ED4E5E9581-3B2C-946F@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com> i frequently use precoated aluminum Google 'Performance Bodies' in cedar falls, iowa has it in stock and ships UPS. IT comes in VARIETY of basic colors protective film easy to work with and durable/ i did 3-4 TR4 interiors for race cars with beading ...in white and attractive still attractive after 18 years. joe a From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 14 12:00:41 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 11:00:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tractor anyone? In-Reply-To: <201008140947327.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> References: <201008140947327.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Message-ID: <01d401cb3bda$9c296920$0301a8c0@randall> > I just looked at a 1948 Massey Ferguson TE20 tractor. Made in > Coventry by Standard. Hmm, I thought the TE20 used a Continental engine; the Standard engine model was known as a TEA-20. Not true? Just curious, what are they asking for it? Randall From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Sat Aug 14 12:40:27 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 18:40:27 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Tractor anyone? In-Reply-To: <01d401cb3bda$9c296920$0301a8c0@randall> References: <201008140947327.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> <01d401cb3bda$9c296920$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <77877.69104.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Randall wrote: Hmm, I thought the TE20 used a Continental engine; the Standard engine model was known as a TEA-20. Not true? Generically, all the post-war Fergusons made by Standard were referred to as TEA's - TE standing for Tractor Europe to distinguish them from the earlier variants made under licence from Ferguson by Ford in the US. The TE-A was a gasoline only engine The TE-D was a dual fuel. You started it on gasoline until it reached running temperature and then turned a fuel tap to run it on TVO, tractor vapourising oil - a sort of kerosene. This wwas the one I had myself and these were the most commonplace for a number of years. The TE-F was a diesel and this diesel was a variant of the wet liner four cylinder. In fact, the same engine was fitted in the Standard Vanguard range for a number of years and was popular in overseas markets where gasoline fuel quality was poor and diesel was usually more dependable. So, a diesel sidescreen TR is a distinct possibility - though probably not very fast :) Jonmac _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 14 13:37:42 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 12:37:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tractor anyone? In-Reply-To: <77877.69104.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <201008140947327.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> <01d401cb3bda$9c296920$0301a8c0@randall> <77877.69104.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <022301cb3be8$29d4e260$0301a8c0@randall> > Generically, all the post-war Fergusons made by Standard were > referred to as TEA's - TE standing for Tractor Europe to > distinguish them from the earlier variants made under licence > from Ferguson by Ford in the US. Hmm, that seems to be somewhat at variance with the Wikipedia entry, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferguson_TE20 and also the Tractordata.com entry: http://tinyurl.com/2bauyy3 I've not seen a TEA-20 in the flesh (so to speak), but I have seen a TO-20 and it did not have a Standard engine. It's owner seemed to believe it had been built in Detroit as well. Of course, the Ferguson version of the Standard engine has some significant differences from the version found in Triumph TRs. The most obvious being the starter relocated to the LH side and somewhat higher, just below the oil filler also fitted to the LH side of the block. But the family resemblance is there, if you look for it. One thing they do share is the rather large oil filter canister, mounted at a 45 degree angle on the LH side. Here is a photo, kindly shared with me by Jim Williams, of his TEA-20 cylinder block: http://tinyurl.com/3xkd8ew Randall From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sat Aug 14 14:07:16 2010 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 15:07:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 embarrassing horns Message-ID: <410-22010861420716258@earthlink.net> The horn on my '73 TR6 occasionally sounds while I am in the process of turning. Sorry if this has been dealt with before but now I need to know what to look for. The horn button still works but the ill-behavedl honking always seem to happen at a unfavorable time. I CAN'T make it happen at home by pushing the steering wheel side to side. Has anyone got any ideas here? Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 Osseo,MN . From peter at nosimport.com Sat Aug 14 15:04:44 2010 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 16:04:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tractor anyone? In-Reply-To: <022301cb3be8$29d4e260$0301a8c0@randall> References: <201008140947327.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> <01d401cb3bda$9c296920$0301a8c0@randall> <77877.69104.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> <022301cb3be8$29d4e260$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <201008141404375.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> I looked at it, then looked it up in Wikipedia. The serial number is TE28288 stamped on a plate on the "dash". It is a Standard engine. It has a Lucas starter.. bullet nose but 6 Volt. Up draft carb. Unfortunately, I can't see myself buying it. I have stuff to get rid of. Anyone want an Austin Champ? If someone is somewhat serious, I will take pictures, etc. It's being sold by a friend of mine. Here's the CL listing. Price VERY negotiable. http://madison.craigslist.org/grd/1880996928.html Peter C === At 02:37 PM 8/14/2010, Randall wrote: > > Generically, all the post-war Fergusons made by Standard were > > referred to as TEA's - TE standing for Tractor Europe to > > distinguish them from the earlier variants made under licence > > from Ferguson by Ford in the US. > >Hmm, that seems to be somewhat at variance with the Wikipedia entry, >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferguson_TE20 > >and also the Tractordata.com entry: >http://tinyurl.com/2bauyy3 > >I've not seen a TEA-20 in the flesh (so to speak), but I have seen a TO-20 >and it did not have a Standard engine. It's owner seemed to believe it had >been built in Detroit as well. > >Of course, the Ferguson version of the Standard engine has some significant >differences from the version found in Triumph TRs. The most obvious being >the starter relocated to the LH side and somewhat higher, just below the oil >filler also fitted to the LH side of the block. But the family resemblance >is there, if you look for it. One thing they do share is the rather large >oil filter canister, mounted at a 45 degree angle on the LH side. Here is a >photo, kindly shared with me by Jim Williams, of his TEA-20 cylinder block: >http://tinyurl.com/3xkd8ew > >Randall > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/peter at nosimport.com > > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3071 - Release Date: >08/14/10 03:48:00 From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Aug 14 15:28:06 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 14:28:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pushrod and tappet trouble on my TR3A In-Reply-To: <013b01cb3b5f$74788b20$0301a8c0@randall> References: <345D002DCE1D4AD0B657FE7C2AF1CC78@ricksoffice> <013b01cb3b5f$74788b20$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: For next time, giving the push rod a quick little twist as you lift it is usually enough to assure it lets go of the tappet. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 14 16:26:02 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 15:26:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tractor anyone? In-Reply-To: <201008141404375.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> References: <201008140947327.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> <01d401cb3bda$9c296920$0301a8c0@randall> <77877.69104.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> <022301cb3be8$29d4e260$0301a8c0@randall> <201008141404375.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Message-ID: <027401cb3bff$adc06ec0$0301a8c0@randall> > If someone is somewhat serious, I wish I was, but it's too far away, and at the moment I have no place for it. Maybe in a few years, after I retire ... But thanks for the link/info, Peter. Randall From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Aug 14 17:44:45 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:44:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 embarrassing horns In-Reply-To: <410-22010861420716258@earthlink.net> References: <410-22010861420716258@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <854BDC9FCB0F4C619C968D16E4ED4B23@laptopPC> Here's how I fixed mine (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HornRepair.htm) I have an after market steering wheel but the idea is the same. And here's how one of the 6-Pack guys fixed his (http://tinyurl.com/299uacz) Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 running with Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Greg Gelhar" Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 4:07 PM To: Subject: [TR] TR6 embarrassing horns > The horn on my '73 TR6 occasionally sounds while I am in the process of > turning. Sorry if this has been dealt with before but now I need to know > what to look for. The horn button still works but the ill-behavedl honking > always seem to happen at a unfavorable time. I CAN'T make it happen at > home by pushing the steering wheel side to side. Has anyone got any ideas > here? > > > Greg Gelhar > 1973 TR6 > Osseo,MN > > > > > > > . > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From opposumking at verizon.net Sat Aug 14 17:46:42 2010 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:46:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tractor anyone? In-Reply-To: <022301cb3be8$29d4e260$0301a8c0@randall> References: <201008140947327.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> <01d401cb3bda$9c296920$0301a8c0@randall> <77877.69104.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> <022301cb3be8$29d4e260$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4C672AE2.3040002@verizon.net> Nothing new with Wikipedia being wrong. My father has a Standard engine Fergie built in coventry as well. From mark at bradakis.com Sat Aug 14 17:54:04 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 17:54:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 embarrassing horns In-Reply-To: <410-22010861420716258@earthlink.net> References: <410-22010861420716258@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4C672C9C.20200@bradakis.com> Do you have noticeable in and out movement on the steering column? mjb. From pfullam at nycap.rr.com Sat Aug 14 21:08:24 2010 From: pfullam at nycap.rr.com (Peter) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 23:08:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Pushrod and tappet trouble on my TR3A In-Reply-To: <013b01cb3b5f$74788b20$0301a8c0@randall> References: <345D002DCE1D4AD0B657FE7C2AF1CC78@ricksoffice> <013b01cb3b5f$74788b20$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <000601cb3c27$204ab870$60e02950$@rr.com> Aux Liste, I got around the lifting tappet problem by making a hold-down tool out of a 12" piece of coat hanger wire. I put a 90 deg. bend 5/16" from one end of the wire. I pulled up on the pushrod about 1/4 to 3/8". That's enough to tell if the tappet is stuck to it. If it is, reach down alongside the pushrod with the bent end, and press on the top edge of the tappet until it drops off. I actually use it to hold each tappet when pulling the pushrods, so the question doesn't come up. Pete F 63 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 11:19 PM To: 'Rick'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrod and tappet trouble on my TR3A > Could the tappets be hung up above the cam? Unfortunately, yes. The tappets normally ride in a bore in the block, but if they are lifted above the bore (by, say, lifting on the pushrod) then they will typically cock to one side and not go back into the bore. Did that myself, just a few months ago. I eventually succeeded in coaxing the lifter back into it's bore, but it wasn't easy. My basic technique was to lift up on the pushrod a bit (no more than 1" or so), and wiggle it around to try to work the lifter back into it's bore. I also had a small light that I could stick down the hole to try to see what was happening (actually a pickup tool similar to this one: http://tinyurl.com/2clplds ). Probably only took 20 minutes or so to coax it back in, but it seemed longer. The alternative, of course, is to remove the head. Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Aug 14 22:34:44 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 22:34:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 embarrassing horns In-Reply-To: <410-22010861420716258@earthlink.net> References: <410-22010861420716258@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <6FD9DAF6-64CD-46FD-9B5A-E66D10874267@comcast.net> Greg, My TR6 developed that problem at a most inconvenient time...while running the autocross at VTR in Richmond. Looked pretty stupid driving the course and having people think you're honking the horn so my next run I used my turn signals on the turns just to make them wonder what kind of idiot I really was....just kidding. Turned out the wire soldered to the brass contact plate that the horn button hits when you push the horn had come loose but would make contact with the steering rod whenever I turned and it would ground the horn. Took the green wire fuse out until I could solder it back in place. If memory serves you have to do the soldering in the car so you're need one of those little butane gas powered soldering tools to make that easier. Weller makes the one I use and it develops a nice hot tip that will actually melt the solder and its a good size (fits in one hand) for wiring. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Aug 14, 2010, at 2:07 PM, Greg Gelhar wrote: > The horn on my '73 TR6 occasionally sounds while I am in the process > of > turning. From trglory at verizon.net Sun Aug 15 11:18:11 2010 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 13:18:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 embarrassing horns In-Reply-To: <6FD9DAF6-64CD-46FD-9B5A-E66D10874267@comcast.net> References: <410-22010861420716258@earthlink.net> <6FD9DAF6-64CD-46FD-9B5A-E66D10874267@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002701cb3c9d$d6bd66e0$843834a0$@net> Bud; I had that problem with my TR6 too. I turned into the parking lot of a car-hop burger joint and the horn started blowing. When I straightened out it stopped. Problem was that the parking lot was full of motorcycles at the time. I turned to go into the aisle it started blowing again and everybody started looking at me. I told my wife to smile and start waving at people and, to my amazement, they all started waving back. I turned around the back of the building and got out of there as fast as I could, horn still blowing. Talk about feeling like a real doofus. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 12:35 AM To: ggelhar at earthlink.net Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 embarrassing horns Greg, My TR6 developed that problem at a most inconvenient time...while running the autocross at VTR in Richmond. Looked pretty stupid driving the course and having people think you're honking the horn so my next run I used my turn signals on the turns just to make them wonder what kind of idiot I really was....just kidding. Turned out the wire soldered to the brass contact plate that the horn button hits when you push the horn had come loose but would make contact with the steering rod whenever I turned and it would ground the horn. Took the green wire fuse out until I could solder it back in place. If memory serves you have to do the soldering in the car so you're need one of those little butane gas powered soldering tools to make that easier. Weller makes the one I use and it develops a nice hot tip that will actually melt the solder and its a good size (fits in one hand) for wiring. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Aug 15 12:32:35 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 11:32:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 embarrassing horns In-Reply-To: <002701cb3c9d$d6bd66e0$843834a0$@net> References: <410-22010861420716258@earthlink.net> <6FD9DAF6-64CD-46FD-9B5A-E66D10874267@comcast.net> <002701cb3c9d$d6bd66e0$843834a0$@net> Message-ID: In my case the horn/push button assembly came apart ... allowing the return spring to touch ground (thus blowing the horn) when the wheel was pulled or pushed. There was some play up and down, but not enough to spend the effort to fix it. A new horn/push assembly fix the problem ... >Bud; > >I had that problem with my TR6 too. I turned into the parking lot of a >car-hop burger joint and the horn started blowing. When I straightened out >it stopped. Problem was that the parking lot was full of motorcycles at the >time. I turned to go into the aisle it started blowing again and everybody >started looking at me. I told my wife to smile and start waving at people >and, to my amazement, they all started waving back. I turned around the back >of the building and got out of there as fast as I could, horn still blowing. >Talk about feeling like a real doofus. > -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Aug 15 17:48:49 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 19:48:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Master Cylinder(s) question In-Reply-To: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC> References: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC> Message-ID: <000f01cb3cd4$6d6e4e70$484aeb50$@net> What is the collective wisdom about installing the reservoir to mc lines on the TR3? Seems like the brake side is straight forward but the convoluted bends on the clutch side would indicate that maybe it should be installed before the brake cylinder is put in place. Or even should it be done before the bracket is mounted to the firewall? I'd hate to mess up some threads in the process. Thanks Carl From mark at bradakis.com Sun Aug 15 18:09:49 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 18:09:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] Garage sale Message-ID: <4C6881CD.8080600@bradakis.com> I am trying to unload some excess items. Check out http://www.team.net/forums/viewforum.php?f=9 Currently listing a TR6 triple Weber manifold, a Kirkey seat, and some Spitfire SUs and ugly manifold. This stuff can easily be hauled to Topeka with me, no shipping charges. I may be adding more stuff later this evening and tomorrow. mjb. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Aug 15 18:32:13 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 17:32:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Master Cylinder(s) question In-Reply-To: <000f01cb3cd4$6d6e4e70$484aeb50$@net> References: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC> <000f01cb3cd4$6d6e4e70$484aeb50$@net> Message-ID: On 8/15/10, Carl TR wrote: > What is the collective wisdom about installing the reservoir to mc lines on > the TR3? Try to avoid what some PO did to my TR3A -- the clutch line swoops down directly in front (as viewed through the opening on the back of the box) of the bottom bolt for the brake MC. To R&R the brake MC cylinder I first have to undo inlets on both the clutch and brake MC and remove the reservoir (and then of course bleed both systems upon reassembly). Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 15 19:12:14 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 18:12:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Master Cylinder(s) question In-Reply-To: <000f01cb3cd4$6d6e4e70$484aeb50$@net> References: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC> <000f01cb3cd4$6d6e4e70$484aeb50$@net> Message-ID: <039701cb3ce0$0ffef8a0$0301a8c0@randall> > Or even should it > be done before > the bracket is mounted to the firewall? Not that it counts for much, but that is the way I did it. The new pipes had to be adjusted a bit; and I had the bracket off anyway ... Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Aug 15 21:20:26 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 23:20:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Master Cylinder(s) question In-Reply-To: References: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC> <000f01cb3cd4$6d6e4e70$484aeb50$@net> Message-ID: I am 'routing' the pipes with soft copper with the mc's in place before I bend the steel. Thanks for the suggestion - I was dead square on the bolt. I think I will at least remove the brake mc when doing the clutch. I can't imagine how these were done in the production line. thanks to Tom & Randall as well. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 8:32 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Master Cylinder(s) question > On 8/15/10, Carl TR wrote: >> What is the collective wisdom about installing the reservoir to mc lines >> on >> the TR3? > > Try to avoid what some PO did to my TR3A -- the clutch line swoops > down directly in front (as viewed through the opening on the back of > the box) of the bottom bolt for the brake MC. To R&R the brake MC > cylinder I first have to undo inlets on both the clutch and brake MC > and remove the reservoir (and then of course bleed both systems upon > reassembly). > > Geo From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Aug 15 21:24:42 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 23:24:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil guage line. In-Reply-To: References: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC> <000f01cb3cd4$6d6e4e70$484aeb50$@net> Message-ID: <390B489A6FDB46579A88E3950AF1856D@CarlPC> Anyone have a source for the flex hose between the 'banjo' line and the hard line going to the gauge (in braided stainless)? Looks like it would be almost identical to the clutch slave flex line but about 1 1/2 - 2" shorter. Local shop uses industrial fittings and it would out of place in comparison. Thanks Carl From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Aug 15 21:35:34 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 23:35:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: Offered for sale -- TR3 red/black medallion with "TRIUMPH" on shield Message-ID: Decided to post this again... > Jul 5, 2010 09:28:27 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote: > > Going through the parts pile and I found an early TR3 medallion - > Red/Black with "TRIUMPH" on the shield. > I was going to list on eBay but thought I would bring it here first. > Will list on eBay @ $155 includes US flat rate small box insured > shipping - sell new at Moss (601-135) for $170; TRF 604272) @ $180 > (rounded) plus shipping. > Since I won't have to pay eBay fees: first $140 (including USPS domestic) > gets it. International shipping additional and will be based on difference > of USPS flat rate small box rates (i.e. Canada = ~$7 more; UK/Australia = > ~$9 more; ). > > This is a concours quality medallion for early TR3 (through 1957/TS22000) > Images at: http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/id11.html (copy/paste into > your browser) > > Carl From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 15 22:44:28 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 21:44:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil guage line. In-Reply-To: <390B489A6FDB46579A88E3950AF1856D@CarlPC> References: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC><000f01cb3cd4$6d6e4e70$484aeb50$@net> <390B489A6FDB46579A88E3950AF1856D@CarlPC> Message-ID: <03d001cb3cfd$b624f960$0301a8c0@randall> > Anyone have a source for the flex hose between the 'banjo' > line and the > hard line going to the gauge (in braided stainless)? I'll bet Ted Schumacher (TSi) can make them in stainless. TRF has them listed, but I'm guessing theirs are a good reproduction of the original, which was not stainless (painted brass, I think). Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sun Aug 15 23:12:11 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 23:12:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil guage line. In-Reply-To: <390B489A6FDB46579A88E3950AF1856D@CarlPC> References: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC><000f01cb3cd4$6d6e4e70$484aeb50$@net> <390B489A6FDB46579A88E3950AF1856D@CarlPC> Message-ID: Carl, I did use the same line as the clutch slave, I had an extra and said "what the heck I'll give it a try" has performed flawlessly for two seasons now. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 9:25 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil guage line. Anyone have a source for the flex hose between the 'banjo' line and the hard line going to the gauge (in braided stainless)? Looks like it would be almost identical to the clutch slave flex line but about 1 1/2 - 2" shorter. Local shop uses industrial fittings and it would out of place in comparison. Thanks Carl _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Aug 15 23:31:24 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 22:31:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps Message-ID: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I installed a Facet fuel pump behind the drivers seat under the rear seat/parcel shelf. I like the location. Good access and I can see the fuel filter by looking through the spoke wheels. I can also change the filter of fuel pump without jacking up the car. I mounted the pump on doubled 1/16th inch thick neoprene washers to buffer the noise. So, now when I drive the car it sounds like a woodpecker pecking away under the parcel shelf. Damn the thing is loud. What is the best way to quiet it down? All my concocted ideas are unbelievably complicated and probably overkill. Any listers have a simple way to quiet this thing down? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Mon Aug 16 03:02:44 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 09:02:44 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil guage line. In-Reply-To: <390B489A6FDB46579A88E3950AF1856D@CarlPC> References: <73E856F7BACC4291BBE4CBDBAC960552@CarlPC> <000f01cb3cd4$6d6e4e70$484aeb50$@net> <390B489A6FDB46579A88E3950AF1856D@CarlPC> Message-ID: <564363.4170.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> I know Ted Schumacher has been offering a range of braided oil lines because he visited me last year in the UK with some samples we touted round some parts suppliers here. Ted would be my first port of call. NFI Jonmac ________________________________ From: Carl TR To: Triumph List Sent: Mon, 16 August, 2010 4:24:42 Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil guage line. Anyone have a source for the flex hose between the 'banjo' line and the hard line going to the gauge (in braided stainless)? Looks like it would be almost identical to the clutch slave flex line but about 1 1/2 - 2" shorter. Local shop uses industrial fittings and it would out of place in comparison. Thanks Carl _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Mon Aug 16 03:27:03 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 09:27:03 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <410274.77389.qm@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> When 'uncle jack' blew his fuel pump last year in Vancouver (it was the only failure we had of any sort) a BCTR member most kindly donated a new Facet pump he carried as a spare in his TR4. The donor told me that in his experience the operating pressure of that pump was about 8 psi and most Triumphs need around 2.5 to 3 psi max. To get round the clatter, he also donated a restrictor to put in the fuel line. This looked homemade and was a piece of drilled bar. The bar had a small hole drilled through it - about 1/16th and was considerably smaller than the internal diameter of the fuel pipe. Held in place with a hose clamp on either end. Not sure what additional load that restrictor put on the pump itself but (a) it stopped the 'clacking' noise of the new pump on first start and (b) got us to California and then back to Denver CO with no further trouble. AFAIK, it's still there? Phil Ethier? Jonmac ________________________________ From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Mon, 16 August, 2010 6:31:24 Subject: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps I installed a Facet fuel pump behind the drivers seat under the rear seat/parcel shelf. I like the location. Good access and I can see the fuel filter by looking through the spoke wheels. I can also change the filter of fuel pump without jacking up the car. I mounted the pump on doubled 1/16th inch thick neoprene washers to buffer the noise. So, now when I drive the car it sounds like a woodpecker pecking away under the parcel shelf. Damn the thing is loud. What is the best way to quiet it down? All my concocted ideas are unbelievably complicated and probably overkill. Any listers have a simple way to quiet this thing down? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Mon Aug 16 07:13:02 2010 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 06:13:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <45ECDC12-8B4C-4A6E-8D74-128CB4411864@gmail.com> Get a louder exhaust system?? :-) John On 15 Aug, 2010, at 10:31 PM, William Brewer wrote: > I installed a Facet fuel pump behind the drivers seat under the rear seat/parcel shelf. I like the location. Good access and I can see the fuel filter by looking through the spoke wheels. I can also change the filter of fuel pump without jacking up the car. I mounted the pump on doubled 1/16th inch thick neoprene washers to buffer the noise. > So, now when I drive the car it sounds like a woodpecker pecking away under the parcel shelf. Damn the thing is loud. What is the best way to quiet it down? All my concocted ideas are unbelievably complicated and probably overkill. Any listers have a simple way to quiet this thing down? > TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Aug 16 07:23:45 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 06:23:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: <45ECDC12-8B4C-4A6E-8D74-128CB4411864@gmail.com> References: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <45ECDC12-8B4C-4A6E-8D74-128CB4411864@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C693BE1.50201@gmail.com> On 8/16/10 6:13 AM, John Wise wrote: > Get a louder exhaust system?? :-) > > John > having had a Facet pump on the Land Rover and used the Facet rubber standoffs to "quiet" the pump my reply would have been to drive a couple nails into the muffler. Or to convert to a mechanical TR fuel pump. There are very good reasons why pretty much all factories put mechanical fuel pumps on their carbureted engines. Teriann From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Mon Aug 16 07:39:42 2010 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 08:39:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <297FD9C8404E4E6F90DDF3BFFE0A1CC8@aitinc.local> Another alternative is an Airtex E8016S pump. Pump pressure is 2.5-4.5 PSI so it works without any regulator. They are quieter than a facet pump or an SU pump. We have several cars in the area running them and have had no problems. Also, make sure the suction side of the pump doesn't have any air leaks. A pump sucking a mixture of air and fuel will hammer loudly. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATX-E8016S Pump specs: http://www.airtexproducts.com/TSB/TSB-0108-01_ATX.pdf Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Monday, August 16, 2010 00:31 Subject: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps > I installed a Facet fuel pump behind the drivers seat under the rear > seat/parcel shelf. I like the location. Good access and I can see the fuel > filter by looking through the spoke wheels. I can also change the filter > of fuel pump without jacking up the car. I mounted the pump on doubled > 1/16th inch thick neoprene washers to buffer the noise. > So, now when I drive the car it sounds like a woodpecker pecking away > under the parcel shelf. Damn the thing is loud. What is the best way to > quiet it down? All my concocted ideas are unbelievably complicated and > probably overkill. Any listers have a simple way to quiet this thing down? > TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi From pethier at comcast.net Mon Aug 16 08:12:04 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 14:12:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps and uncle jack In-Reply-To: <186518649.560350.1281967540806.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <662160985.560544.1281967924467.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I would have to ask Glenn Merrell and Joe Pawlak if it is still there. Whatever is in there is working fine. I don't know why a Britcar guy would carry a high-pressure Facet when the low-pressure ones are available. I used them for years on Weber, Delorto and SU carbs with no problems from overpressure. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Macartney" > To: "William Brewer" , "Triumphs" > Sent: Monday, August 16, 2010 4:27:03 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps > > When 'uncle jack' blew his fuel pump last year in Vancouver (it was > the only > failure we had of any sort) a BCTR member most kindly donated a new > Facet pump > he carried as a spare in his TR4. The donor told me that in his > experience the > operating pressure of that pump was about 8 psi and most Triumphs need > around > 2.5 to 3 psi max. To get round the clatter, he also donated a > restrictor to > put > in the fuel line. This looked homemade and was a piece of drilled > bar. > The bar > had a small hole drilled through it - about 1/16th and was > considerably smaller > than the internal diameter of the fuel pipe. Held in > place with a hose clamp on > either end. Not sure what additional load that > restrictor put on the pump itself > but (a) it stopped the 'clacking' noise of > the new pump on first start and (b) > got us to California and then back to > Denver CO with no further trouble. AFAIK, > it's still there? Phil Ethier? > Jonmac From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Mon Aug 16 08:29:11 2010 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 10:29:11 EDT Subject: [TR] HS6 Set For Sale Message-ID: <6aeee.741559e1.399aa537@aol.com> I have a set of HS6 carbs that came off our car when I replaced them with the original style H6 carbs and manifold. These are mounted to the long runner intake with the linkage attached to hook them up with. They were set up by Jim Taylor and ran real good when I took them off. If interested contact me off line and I can supply pictures. I also have a header that was mounted as well. Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Aug 16 09:28:04 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 08:28:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: <4C693BE1.50201@gmail.com> References: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <45ECDC12-8B4C-4A6E-8D74-128CB4411864@gmail.com> <4C693BE1.50201@gmail.com> Message-ID: Someone posted a nice "emergency" spare concerning fuel pumps ... ISTR it was a FLAPS ?? I can't seem to find one ... would you mind reposting that info ... Thanks. John having had a Facet pump on the Land Rover and used the Facet rubber standoffs to "quiet" the pump my reply would have been to drive a couple nails into the muffler. Or to convert to a mechanical TR fuel pump. -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tr4zest at gmail.com Mon Aug 16 09:45:37 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 11:45:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps Message-ID: Bill, This is what I would try: If you mounted the washers only on the pump side of the panel, try two neoprene washers on each side. If that doesn't work, try mounting with licence plate plastic bolts and nuts (plus neoprene washers). You can zip tie the line to ease any worry about the bolts failing. Here's another idea: don't mount it ... Isolate the fuel line for sound and lift the pump away from the body of the car. The immediate in/out to the pump could be rubber fuel line. This would let the pump thump in mid air and without beating the car's panel like a drum skin. Good luck, Brian From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 16 10:49:24 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 09:49:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <047a01cb3d62$fb807420$0301a8c0@randall> > This would let the pump thump > in mid air and > without beating the car's panel like a drum skin. As a less extreme version of the same idea, I used a sub-bracket on my Stag. Pump mounted with rubber grommets on all 3 sides (under bolt head, between pump & bracket, between nut & bracket) then more rubber on the bracket-to-body mounts. The result is that I can just barely hear the pump from the driver's seat with the engine idling, not at all when moving. BTW, TeriAnn, the Triumph Stag came stock with an electric fuel pump as do practically all modern cars. The main advantage of the mechanical pump was low cost. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 16 10:56:48 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 09:56:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: References: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><45ECDC12-8B4C-4A6E-8D74-128CB4411864@gmail.com><4C693BE1.50201@gmail.com> Message-ID: <048701cb3d64$045515a0$0301a8c0@randall> > Someone posted a nice "emergency" spare concerning fuel pumps ... > ISTR it was a FLAPS ?? FLAPS = Friendly Local Auto Parts Store (or perhaps Full Line Auto Parts Store). > I can't seem to find one ... would you mind reposting that > info ... Thanks. I carry one of the little Facet pumps as an emergency spare; the proper low pressure version so no regulator required. You should be able to find one (or a clone) at any store that caters to the VW crowd (although I suppose those are getting harder to find). Aircraft Spruce has about the best price I've found on a new one. http://tinyurl.com/3y9knu Also some other items required : fittings for pump, length of 5/16" fuel line, clamps, tie wraps, clip leads. With those at hand, you can press the pump into service in just a few minutes. Although not recommended as a long-term solution, the 5/16" line can be clamped onto the 1/4" fitting found on most LBC carbs. Randall From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Aug 16 11:05:12 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 10:05:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Quieting Facet Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: <047a01cb3d62$fb807420$0301a8c0@randall> References: <047a01cb3d62$fb807420$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4C696FC8.8010008@gmail.com> On 8/16/10 9:49 AM, Randall wrote: > BTW, TeriAnn, the Triumph Stag came stock with an electric fuel pump as do > practically all modern cars. The main advantage of the mechanical pump was > low cost. > > and reliability, and quiet. The MGB came with an electric fuel pump too. Back when I had a BGT I used to get out and beat it with a knock off hammer once & a while when it stopped working. But modern cars really didn't transition over to electric fuel pumps until they went to EFI that required higher pump pressure than a carb did and needed the high pressure to be there before the engine started to turn over. Teriann From pethier at comcast.net Mon Aug 16 11:05:57 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:05:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 embarrassing horns In-Reply-To: <002701cb3c9d$d6bd66e0$843834a0$@net> Message-ID: <704246414.571345.1281978357663.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Yeah, I know that one. My TR4 started doing a little beep-beep while we were nuding through the croud at Back To The Fifties. We kept apologing to everyone. Sue said "When we get this thing parked, you are disconnecting the horns." Yes, dear. All repaired now, so Tony shouldn't have the same problem... Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe Laurito" > To: "Bud Rolofson" , ggelhar at earthlink.net > Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 12:18:11 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 embarrassing horns > > Bud; > > I had that problem with my TR6 too. I turned into the parking lot of > a > car-hop burger joint and the horn started blowing. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Aug 16 12:16:56 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 11:16:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: References: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <45ECDC12-8B4C-4A6E-8D74-128CB4411864@gmail.com> <4C693BE1.50201@gmail.com> Message-ID: On 8/16/10, Bill wrote: > Someone posted a nice "emergency" spare concerning fuel pumps ... > I can't seem to find one ... would you mind reposting that info ... Possibly moi... http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Electric%20Pump%201.JPG I made a 5/16 > 1/4 adaptor so the hose would be the correct ID at each end: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Electric%20Pump%202.JPG As for finding one, it came from Autozone and the SKU was #191528 and the receipt also shows E8016S which may be a part number. $27 when I got it, likely more now. It is not expensive, but then neither is the Facet. Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Aug 16 12:21:26 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 11:21:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: References: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <45ECDC12-8B4C-4A6E-8D74-128CB4411864@gmail.com> <4C693BE1.50201@gmail.com> Message-ID: On 8/16/10, Geo Hahn wrote: > As for finding one, it came from Autozone and the SKU was #191528 Hah hah -- I just read the rest of the receipt... it is guaranteed for 83 years! I guess they thought 'lifetime' wasn't quite enough (actually I suspect it is because 999 months = 83 years). Geo From guy at genfiniti.com Mon Aug 16 14:31:10 2010 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 15:31:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Head Studs Message-ID: <30C9D85F-FAB3-4DBB-B4DF-978E8E2A5164@genfiniti.com> All, Is it possible/advisable to replace cylinder head studs with the head still in place? My idea is to replace the studs one at a time. (pull one out, replace it, move to the next) If I cannot, do I have to replace the head gasket if I take the head off? I just rebuilt this engine, it has never been run; but I failed to check the studs and want to go back and check them, replace if needed. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 16 15:12:30 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 14:12:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Head Studs In-Reply-To: <30C9D85F-FAB3-4DBB-B4DF-978E8E2A5164@genfiniti.com> References: <30C9D85F-FAB3-4DBB-B4DF-978E8E2A5164@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <073801cb3d87$bd74aa50$385dfef0$@rr.com> > I just rebuilt this engine, it has never been run; but I failed to > check the > studs and want to go back and check them, replace if needed. I'll suggest an alternate approach, Guy. One at a time, take off the nut & flat washer, then spin a new nut on with your fingers. Use a thin feeler gauge to check that "finger tight" leaves the nut touching the head. If so, and there is no visible damage to the threads, then the stud is almost certainly fine. The only "hidden" damage I have ever seen (in more decades than I care to count) is the stud being stretched in the upper threaded area. Trying to remove the studs with the head in place would be a gamble, IMO, as would trying to reuse the head gasket. It might work, but it might not. -- Randall From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Aug 16 19:22:11 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 01:22:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil guage line. In-Reply-To: <390B489A6FDB46579A88E3950AF1856D@CarlPC> Message-ID: <543948595.52849.1282008131654.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Carl: I bought mine from Moss and it was standard off the shelf. The problem, as you noted is it is too long for what was what I believe original and in any case to fit properly. So, I went to a performance shop to see if they would have one in the length I wanted. The guy said "No, but with this kit, you can make one any shorter length you want."B Basically, the kit cost a few dollars and provided the end fitting and an inner colar. What you do is cut the braded line from the hose I bought from Moss (or any good automotive shop) to the size you want less the length of the end fitting. The the colar slides over the end and the fitting attaches to the color. I am sure this is exaclty hlow they are made in the factory since the end product looks identical to what I bought but at the lenght I needed for the TR3. Scott Suhring Mechanicsbrug, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 11:24:42 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil guage line. Anyone have a source for the flex hose B between the 'banjo' line and the hard line going to the gauge (in braided stainless)? B Looks like it would be almost identical to the clutch slave flex line but about 1 1/2 - 2" shorter. Local shop uses industrial fittings and it would out of place in comparison. Thanks Carl From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Aug 16 20:07:34 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 19:07:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] timing and gas mixture Message-ID: <758231.3109.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> for those people running an S2 cam or equivalent in a tr-6 (head not skimmed and no other changes) what is your timing set at? also can a carb be set too rich even if spark plugs show good light brown/tannish color? (but I still smell that gasy smell one associates with too rich mixture) I'm slowly leaning out the carbs quarter turn at a time to see if anything changes. just wondering gary n. From carlsereda at aol.com Mon Aug 16 20:23:43 2010 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 19:23:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] noisy fuel pump damper In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <7F4C1178.F967.4185.A936.5A9180E5C6CA@aol.com> Crude, but seems to work on my brother's TR4A - take the rubber thing off a toilet plunger and house the pump in that! Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 .. mechanical pump minded On Aug 16, 2010, at 11:00:01 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: Here's another idea: don't mount it ... Isolate the fuel line for sound and lift the pump away from the body of the car. The immediate in/out to the pump could be rubber fuel line. This would let the pump thump in mid air and without beating the car's panel like a drum skin. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 16 22:59:47 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 21:59:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil guage line. In-Reply-To: <543948595.52849.1282008131654.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <390B489A6FDB46579A88E3950AF1856D@CarlPC> <543948595.52849.1282008131654.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <061a01cb3dc9$04792480$0301a8c0@randall> > The problem, as you > noted is it is too long for what was what I believe original FWIW, all of my originals have been "too long", the length forces them into an "S" shape that is much tighter than the photo in the manuals. http://tinyurl.com/27j4zua Randall From chandler.rick at comcast.net Tue Aug 17 13:08:40 2010 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 12:08:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] noisy fuel pump damper Message-ID: >From a vibration resonance point of view, the worst place to mount a fuel pump is on a piece of sheet metal. My Facet is mounted on the frame just behind the left rear wheel well via some rubber washers to dampen the higher frequencies. As Randall reported, I can hear the pump when I turn the key (a reassuring sound); once the engine fires up, the pump is inaudible. Rick in Seattle 1960 Tr3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 From spitlist at cox.net Tue Aug 17 13:26:17 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 12:26:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] noisy fuel pump damper In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5ED021032C0E4D78B8F9404AEE5B13CC@joepentiumnew> A lot of talk about noisy fuel pumps. I once owned an MGTD and I really liked the noise that the SU electric Fuel pump exuded. It was one of the few things that let me know that I needed to get to a gas station very soon. The louder and more rapid the clicking, the less fuel I had. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 12:09 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] noisy fuel pump damper >From a vibration resonance point of view, the worst place to mount a fuel pump is on a piece of sheet metal. My Facet is mounted on the frame just behind the left rear wheel well via some rubber washers to dampen the higher frequencies. As Randall reported, I can hear the pump when I turn the key (a reassuring sound); once the engine fires up, the pump is inaudible. Rick in Seattle 1960 Tr3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From brad.kahler at 141.com Tue Aug 17 20:26:19 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 22:26:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 horn wiring Message-ID: I need some help sorting out the wiring used on the steering column for the horn on my 63 TR4. The PO modified the lower joint by removing the rubber joint and converting it to the solid TR6 style. The upper joint is still the rubber joint. The grounding wire that ties the upper column to the lower column through the rubber joint is installed. There is no problem with the horn button or the spring loaded plunger. What I think is missing is some sort of grounding wire from the steering column to the rack and then from the rack to the frame. This TR4 does have the solid aluminum mounts so I don't know that it would need a ground wire from the rack to the frame. I'm not sure I see a need for a ground wire on the lower metal u-joint that ties the lower column to the steering rack. The problem is I don't seem to be getting a good ground from the button to the frame. Oh yeah, one other thing. I've installed a horn relay and wired it the same as a TR4A so the horn button is only providing the ground for the horn relay and not the horns themselves. So what am I missing? Thanks! Brad 1963 TR4 From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Wed Aug 18 02:21:20 2010 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 10:21:20 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR] TR4 horn wiring References: Message-ID: <93B94D6656154FD3B9941344FC6277D7@Study> I posted thi s a few years ago but here it is again in case it's any help to anyone. FWIW my horn works as well as ever. "I put up with this problem for a few years but after adopting the following rather inelegant solution about 20 years ago the horns have worked perfectly ever since. First I made a new plunger thingy. Took the carbon rod from a dry battery which fitted well into the barrel of an old pen of correct diameter. Took a very light compression spring, same one from the old ballpoint, I think. Cut two pieces 10 mm or so from the carbon rod and glued them to the spring. They fitted into a piece of the ballpoint barrel cut to the appropriate length. Voila! A new plunger thingy. Next I ground the teeth off an old hacksaw blade and bolted a suitable length of it to the master cylinders bracket so that the flat bore down on the upper part of the steering column. Encore Voila! A perfect earth. No need to fiddle with bits of wire over the UJ's or steering rack." HTH, ATB David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 11174 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Aug 18 05:39:45 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 07:39:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR] TR4 horn wiring In-Reply-To: <93B94D6656154FD3B9941344FC6277D7@Study> References: <93B94D6656154FD3B9941344FC6277D7@Study> Message-ID: David, thanks for the reply. Definitely an interesting solution to the problem for the wires on the column! I don't have a problem with the spring loaded plunger. Actually I probably have a half dozen of those things laying around. On the 63 Spitfire that I used to have I vaguely remember a ground wire that went from the rack to the frame but then the Spitfire had rubber isolation mounts. The TR4 uses solid aluminum blocks so I don't think I need to ground the rack. The Moss TR6 catalog doesn't show a ground wire from the lower steering knuckle to the rack itself so I'm assuming there is nothing there. One thing I forgot to try was grounding the shaft where it comes out of the firewall to ensure that my problem isn't in the slip ring area. Brad On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 4:21 AM, David Brister wrote: > I posted thi s a few years ago but here it is again in case it's any help to > anyone. > FWIW my horn works as well as ever. > > "I put up with this problem for a few years but after adopting the following > rather inelegant solution about 20 years ago the horns have worked perfectly > ever since. > First I made a new plunger thingy. Took the carbon rod from a dry battery > which fitted well into the barrel of an old pen of correct diameter. Took a > very light compression spring, same one from the old ballpoint, I think. Cut > two pieces 10 mm or so from the carbon rod and glued them to the spring. > They fitted into a piece of the ballpoint barrel cut to the appropriate > length. > Voila! A new plunger thingy. > Next I ground the teeth off an old hacksaw blade and bolted a suitable > length of it to the master cylinders bracket so that the flat bore down on > the upper part of the steering column. > Encore Voila! A perfect earth. No need to fiddle with bits of wire over the > UJ's or steering rack." From deruiterville at hotmail.com Wed Aug 18 05:51:14 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 06:51:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 horn wiring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Brad- I had this issue on my TR4, and am also configured pretty similarly to you as I use the TR6 lower coupling and I've changed over to a relay setup. In my case I tracked down the grounding issue to the lower shaft itself. Even though the upper rubber coupling had the grounding wire, I was losing ground right at the splined joint on the lower shaft - evidently corrosion builds up over time. I solved it temporarily (now going on 2 years), by wrapping a 12 gauge grounding wire along the lower shaft to get a good ground all the way through the column. At that point, no problem. If I were you I would also have a grounding strap from the steering rack to the frame even though you are using solid mounts. And no, I don't have a separate ground wire for that lower coupling, it seems to ground just fine there. Randy From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Aug 18 05:59:56 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 07:59:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 horn wiring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Randy, Good tip on the splined joint. I did notice erratic continuity signals between parts of the column. Since I'm replacing the rubber joint I'll go ahead and pull everything apart and clean. Hopefully that will solve the problem. Thanks! Brad On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 7:51 AM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: > Brad- > > I had this issue on my TR4, and am also configured pretty similarly to you > as I use the TR6 lower coupling and I've changed over to a relay setup. In > my case I tracked down the grounding issue to the lower shaft itself. Even > though the upper rubber coupling had the grounding wire, I was losing ground > right at the splined joint on the lower shaft - evidently corrosion builds > up over time. I solved it temporarily (now going on 2 years), by wrapping a > 12 gauge grounding wire along the lower shaft to get a good ground all the > way through the column. At that point, no problem. If I were you I would > also have a grounding strap from the steering rack to the frame even though > you are using solid mounts. And no, I don't have a separate ground wire > for that lower coupling, it seems to ground just fine there. > > Randy From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 18 06:01:15 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 08:01:15 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 horn wiring Message-ID: <41027.159ce4b4.399d258b@cs.com> In a message dated 8/17/2010 9:38:53 PM Central Daylight Time, brad.kahler at 141.com writes: > What I think is missing is some sort of grounding wire from the > steering column to the rack and then from the rack to the frame. This > TR4 does have the solid aluminum mounts so I don't know that it would > need a ground wire from the rack to the frame. I'm not sure I see a > need for a ground wire on the lower metal u-joint that ties the lower > column to the steering rack. > Mr. Brister's solution notwithstanding, the TR6 has a black wire with a ring terminal that attaches under the steering rack fill plug. Since the rack itself is mounted via rubber bushings the only ground path is through the suspension components which is unreliable at best. In fact all the attach points to the frame are implemented with rubber or nylon bushes If I remember correctly. Connecting the shaft to the rack housing is problematic in that you would need some sort of watch spring arrangement that will wind and unwind as you turn the wheel. I tried that many years ago when my MGB horn stopped working. The wire lasted long enough to get me through my annual inspection but not much longer. As it turns out there was sufficient rust in the U-joint connection to prevent electrical conduction and taking it apart and putting it back together (I forget why I did it) fixed the horn problem. So check the U-joint of you get no joy. But the shaft to rack housing connection is made by the gears and bearings inside the rack which are bathed in oil/grease and should provide many years of trouble free service. Of course you can bypass all that by using the slip ring solution offered by my friend Dave B. Cheers Dave From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Aug 18 06:35:39 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 08:35:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 horn wiring In-Reply-To: <41027.159ce4b4.399d258b@cs.com> References: <41027.159ce4b4.399d258b@cs.com> Message-ID: Dave, Based on yours and previous emails it appears the splined joints are the likely problem. I guess I know what I'll be doing this evening! Thanks! Brad On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:01 AM, wrote: > In a message dated 8/17/2010 9:38:53 PM Central Daylight Time, > brad.kahler at 141.com writes: >> What I think is missing is some sort of grounding wire from the >> steering column to the rack and then from the rack to the frame. This >> TR4 does have the solid aluminum mounts so I don't know that it would >> need a ground wire from the rack to the frame. I'm not sure I see a >> need for a ground wire on the lower metal u-joint that ties the lower >> column to the steering rack. >> > > > Mr. Brister's solution notwithstanding, the TR6 has a black wire with a > ring terminal that attaches under the steering rack fill plug. Since the rack > itself is mounted via rubber bushings the only ground path is through the > suspension components which is unreliable at best. In fact all the attach > points to the frame are implemented with rubber or nylon bushes If I remember > correctly. > > Connecting the shaft to the rack housing is problematic in that you would > need some sort of watch spring arrangement that will wind and unwind as you > turn the wheel. I tried that many years ago when my MGB horn stopped > working. The wire lasted long enough to get me through my annual inspection but > not much longer. As it turns out there was sufficient rust in the U-joint > connection to prevent electrical conduction and taking it apart and putting it > back together (I forget why I did it) fixed the horn problem. So check the > U-joint of you get no joy. But the shaft to rack housing connection is made > by the gears and bearings inside the rack which are bathed in oil/grease > and should provide many years of trouble free service. > > Of course you can bypass all that by using the slip ring solution offered > by my friend Dave B. > > Cheers > > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Aug 18 06:35:39 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 08:35:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 horn wiring In-Reply-To: <41027.159ce4b4.399d258b@cs.com> References: <41027.159ce4b4.399d258b@cs.com> Message-ID: Dave, Based on yours and previous emails it appears the splined joints are the likely problem. I guess I know what I'll be doing this evening! Thanks! Brad On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:01 AM, wrote: > In a message dated 8/17/2010 9:38:53 PM Central Daylight Time, > brad.kahler at 141.com writes: >> What I think is missing is some sort of grounding wire from the >> steering column to the rack and then from the rack to the frame. This >> TR4 does have the solid aluminum mounts so I don't know that it would >> need a ground wire from the rack to the frame. I'm not sure I see a >> need for a ground wire on the lower metal u-joint that ties the lower >> column to the steering rack. >> > > > Mr. Brister's solution notwithstanding, the TR6 has a black wire with a > ring terminal that attaches under the steering rack fill plug. Since the rack > itself is mounted via rubber bushings the only ground path is through the > suspension components which is unreliable at best. In fact all the attach > points to the frame are implemented with rubber or nylon bushes If I remember > correctly. > > Connecting the shaft to the rack housing is problematic in that you would > need some sort of watch spring arrangement that will wind and unwind as you > turn the wheel. I tried that many years ago when my MGB horn stopped > working. The wire lasted long enough to get me through my annual inspection but > not much longer. As it turns out there was sufficient rust in the U-joint > connection to prevent electrical conduction and taking it apart and putting it > back together (I forget why I did it) fixed the horn problem. So check the > U-joint of you get no joy. But the shaft to rack housing connection is made > by the gears and bearings inside the rack which are bathed in oil/grease > and should provide many years of trouble free service. > > Of course you can bypass all that by using the slip ring solution offered > by my friend Dave B. > > Cheers > > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 18 10:10:02 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 10:10:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <7769F082384D4D0A8ACB7BF2C0808291@bboffice> While looking at car lifts for my TR, I noticed they had this page of odd vehicles that you might find interesting.. (Maybe one of them is yours?) Of course, I would not send this if there were not some TR content so pay close attention to the Fred Flintstone-powered Spit. http://www.aclifts.com/oddvehicles/ Enjoy, Bill From spitlist at cox.net Wed Aug 18 10:42:21 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 09:42:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <7769F082384D4D0A8ACB7BF2C0808291@bboffice> References: <7769F082384D4D0A8ACB7BF2C0808291@bboffice> Message-ID: <662AB7308E6940D0BCC0A6D77CD18E44@joepentiumnew> I think that Volkswagen belongs to Bobsta the Lobsta. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 9:10 AM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: [TR] (no subject) While looking at car lifts for my TR, I noticed they had this page of odd vehicles that you might find interesting.. (Maybe one of them is yours?) Of course, I would not send this if there were not some TR content so pay close attention to the Fred Flintstone-powered Spit. http://www.aclifts.com/oddvehicles/ Enjoy, Bill _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Aug 18 15:54:13 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 21:54:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Easiest Way In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <923091380.155688.1282168453692.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> When I removed the timing cover oil seal the last time, the engine was out of the car and the cover off the engine. This time, radiator removed, apron removed, all that, what's the easiest way to get the seal out without damaging the cover. Apply a tiny bit of heat, maybe tap on one side with a brass punch? ...Or insert a small allen wrench and tug forward using vise grips? Thank you, everyone. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 18 16:43:59 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 15:43:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Easiest Way In-Reply-To: <923091380.155688.1282168453692.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <923091380.155688.1282168453692.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0be401cb3f26$d98facd0$8caf0670$@rr.com> Maybe I'm missing something, Terry. The cover has to come off the engine, because the seal only goes in/out from the engine side of the cover. So it's going to be just like before. Mine didn't want to come out, so I laid the cover on two blocks of wood (so no possibility of deforming the sealing edge) and used a small pry bar (with an angled tip) as a punch to drive the seal out. Don't forget the fiber washer that goes on the support stud. It's supposed to be there, but is often missing and apparently not included in the gasket sets. I cut the corner off an H4 carb gasket (which was in the set but not used for my car), which seems to make a good substitute. Also don't forget to polish up and grease the sealing surface of the front hub before reassembling. If you can't get a nice shiny surface, I would suggest installing a Speedi-sleeve. -- Randall From bjzwissler at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 19:59:50 2010 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 21:59:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Leaking Push Rod Tubes on TR4A engine? Message-ID: <4C6C9016.6060403@gmail.com> I've got about 700 miles on my TR4A after its rebuild. I've been tracking down some oil leaks and it seems I've got oil leaking from the push rod tubes in the head. I reached that conclusion after installing one of Justin Wagner's silicon valve cover gaskets and degreasing the head. Oil reappeared only around the pushrod tubes. Anyone have experience with this? I had the head gone over by a machine shop - new valve guides, valve job, etc. They cleaned it, but did not hot tank it due to a prior experience with the tubes dissolving. When reassembling I did not add any sealant specifically on the tubes. Overall, the engine's not a horrible leaker but I'd like it to be better. Thanks for any advice. Ben..... -- Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 From mark at bradakis.com Wed Aug 18 20:35:35 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 20:35:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] Leaking Push Rod Tubes on TR4A engine? In-Reply-To: <4C6C9016.6060403@gmail.com> References: <4C6C9016.6060403@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C6C9877.8050906@bradakis.com> I know this discussion has come up in the past. I'll suggest going to http://www.team.net/archive and searching the Triumph archive for pushrod tubes. I'd do it myself but I'm just sitting here for a moment, I'm in the middle of packing up for my departure to Heartland Park in the morning, so I'm a bit busy. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Thu Aug 19 11:04:37 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 11:04:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] So long, farewell, ... Message-ID: <4C6D6425.9070505@bradakis.com> Okay, just about out the door, should be at Heartland Park friday afternoon. I'm looking forward to some time away from my job. All I do is sit in the car and drive in circles all day, this weekend I'll still be sitting in the car driving all day, just in the same direction. Hopefully the the Team.Net machines will behave themselves while I'm gone. If anything does happen, you'll have to wait until I get back tuesday evening or so. mjb. From davidt at opentext.com Thu Aug 19 12:25:18 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:25:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters Message-ID: Hi all, While I am into minor "modernizing" of the '3a I am thinking about the starter, never had a problem with the stock and still great, but I have read about the modern gear reduction ones being better etc. So, who is a good vendor? What is a good price? Anyone have horror stories to avoid? Thanks David Templeton '59 tr3a '74 spitsix From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Thu Aug 19 12:38:10 2010 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:38:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] 2010 VTR Convention on Jekyll Island In-Reply-To: <4C6D6425.9070505@bradakis.com> References: <4C6D6425.9070505@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <44E350E1-CF89-4806-9F89-C64B1289662B@blakedischer.com> Please pass this along as you see fit. The 2010 North American Triumph Challenge (NATC) will be held October 17-22 at the site of the SEVTR Regional Convention since 2002, beautiful Jekyll Island, Georgia. This gathering of the Triumph faithful will be hosted by the clubs of the Southeast Region. Each of these clubs brings their area of expertise to the successful organization of this event. The clubs are proud to host what promises to be one of the most unique and relaxing events the Triumph community has experienced. Discounted room blocks at three hotels, rates expire September 15th. Host hotel: The Jekyll Island Club, rooms start at $155 per night, regularly $269. (http://www.jekyllclub.com/) Other nearby, on island, hotels: Hampton Inn, rooms start at $109 per night. Days Inn and Suites, rooms start at $90 per night. For full details and to register: http://vtr2010.org/ Cheers, Blake Discher From tfansher at comcast.net Thu Aug 19 14:17:48 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 20:17:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters In-Reply-To: <238459631.228946.1282248705488.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1229960945.229417.1282249068104.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I've rebuilt two TR3's in the past couple of years and have updated to the gear reduction starter in both. I bought from a private party and had to buy another so I can't comment on good vendors. Moss has one but there are others. There's one difference I'm not sure about. The TR3 and early TR4's had a "pull to engage" starter where the drive "pulls back into the ring gear" and there is a bevel in the ring gear so that the starter engages easily. Both my reduction gear starters are "push out to engage" the ring gear so I removed and flipped over the ring gear so that there was no potential for binding/grinding. Actually, in the "new 3" when we installed the OD tranny, I took the opportunity to install a lightened flywheel which had the bevel for a push drive and so I installed the extra reduction gear starter rather than redo the ring gear (and I had it on the shelf). I don't think that this has been discussed before and maybe it's not a problem, but I'd hate for you to find out the hard way that it doesn't work like you'd want it to. Also, my buddy and most knowledgeable friend, thinks that removing the starter and taking it apart and REALLY blowing it out helps it turn faster. He thinks that 50 years or so of carbon dust from the brushes floating around and sticking to various surfaces in the starter motor causes it to turn more slowly. So, I'd probably say if it's not broke, it starts well, etc. etc. etc. why try something new. Just my 2 cents worth. Tom Fansher 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag While I am into minor "modernizing" of the '3a I am thinking about the starter, never had a problem with the stock and still great, but I have read about the modern gear reduction ones being better etc. So, who is a good vendor? What is a good price? Anyone have horror stories to avoid? From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Thu Aug 19 14:32:03 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 16:32:03 EDT Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters Message-ID: Hi David; >From the year of your TR3A, I'm guessing it might have the later starter, i.e., not the 'bomb' starter. In my experience (only), the later starter is much more reliable than the 'bomb' starter. So, with a gear reduction unit I would say you get some more reliability, though not necessarily like going from a major headache, to total reliability. More like going from the propensity for the occasional problem, to total reliability. The biggest advantage might be that the gear reduction motor draws a lot less power and might also crank over the engine faster, aiding starting and less hard on the battery, etc. One big advantage for me (my TR3A is early enough to have the 'bomb' starter originally, and it was a nightmare) was that I felt the gear reduction unit was so reliable that I no longer needed the crank hole in the radiator. This allowed me to get the radiator re-cored without the hole, giving me (I think) 20-25% more cooling capacity. Obviously, there are other advantages to having the crank hole, such as turning the engine over when adjusting points, valves, etc., but there easy are ways around that. I've owned TR3A's with the later starter and did have the occasional starter reliability issue, but nothing too bad. If it were me, I'd still stump up the money for a gear-reduction unit. Mine's been on my car for several years now with no problems, and I love the low power draw and how it cranks over the engine. I ordered mine directly from Moss, I think. Sorry that's such a lengthy reply. Tim TS22930LO From pethier at comcast.net Thu Aug 19 14:38:25 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 20:38:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] So long, farewell, ... In-Reply-To: <4C6D6425.9070505@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <383303611.89964.1282250305350.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> At least I know you won't be driving that %^&* 10 miles of gravel into Lusk Wyoming. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark J Bradakis" > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 12:04:37 PM > Subject: [TR] So long, farewell, ... > > Okay, just about out the door, should be at Heartland Park > friday afternoon. I'm looking forward to some time away from > my job. All I do is sit in the car and drive in circles all day, > this weekend I'll still be sitting in the car driving all day, > just in the same direction. > > Hopefully the the Team.Net machines will behave themselves > while I'm gone. If anything does happen, you'll have to wait > until I get back tuesday evening or so. > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 14:46:36 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 13:46:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 8/19/10, David Templeton wrote: > While I am into minor "modernizing" of the '3a I am thinking about the > starter, never had a problem with the stock and still great... Just my opinion, but the starter has always seemed to me to be what Herzberg called a 'Hygiene Factor'... i.e. if they can start the engine than that is as good as it gets, no real need for improvement. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hygiene_factors Geo From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Aug 19 14:59:06 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 16:59:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 front seal References: <923091380.155688.1282168453692.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <0be401cb3f26$d98facd0$8caf0670$@rr.com> Message-ID: <0BAFFE79DCF34408A37ECEC5DED75C26@Edscomputer> List, While the seal is out, drill a couple or three 1/8" holes through the front of the cover so that you can use a punch to take it out the next time. Ed Woods From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Thu Aug 19 15:16:37 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 21:16:37 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters In-Reply-To: <1229960945.229417.1282249068104.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1229960945.229417.1282249068104.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <25764.22278.qm@web28304.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> There's much to support in Tom Fansher's recommendation in terms of 'reviving' what may *appear* to be a worn out starter. I gave detailed thought to fitting my Triumph with a hi-torque unit about ten years ago, when old Joe Lucas began to sound very tired and rather lazy. Spent some time talking to a starter and generator rebuilder who claimed the majority of units he'd recommissioned had nothing wrong with them that a thorough clean and a new bendix wouldn't fix. His price was modest and he rebuilt that unit in just under a week. Came back looking like new! Must say that when I refitted it the results were amazing. Leapt into life, cranked far better than it had ever done before and never gave me a moments trouble after that. It was money well spent, I saved a lot through not buying a more modern unit and the savings incurred helped to finance other needy issues. As Tom says, "if it aint broke don't fix it." Try cleaning it as a low cost alternative (?) remedy and make a later decision based on findings after cleaning. Jonmac To: David Templeton Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 19 August, 2010 21:17:48 Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a starters I've rebuilt two TR3's in the past couple of years and have updated to the gear reduction starter in both. I bought from a private party and had to buy another so I can't comment on good vendors. Moss has one but there are others. There's one difference I'm not sure about. The TR3 and early TR4's had a "pull to engage" starter where the drive "pulls back into the ring gear" and there is a bevel in the ring gear so that the starter engages easily. Both my reduction gear starters are "push out to engage" the ring gear so I removed and flipped over the ring gear so that there was no potential for binding/grinding. Actually, in the "new 3" when we installed the OD tranny, I took the opportunity to install a lightened flywheel which had the bevel for a push drive and so I installed the extra reduction gear starter rather than redo the ring gear (and I had it on the shelf). I don't think that this has been discussed before and maybe it's not a problem, but I'd hate for you to find out the hard way that it doesn't work like you'd want it to. Also, my buddy and most knowledgeable friend, thinks that removing the starter and taking it apart and REALLY blowing it out helps it turn faster. He thinks that 50 years or so of carbon dust from the brushes floating around and sticking to various surfaces in the starter motor causes it to turn more slowly. So, I'd probably say if it's not broke, it starts well, etc. etc. etc. why try something new. Just my 2 cents worth. Tom Fansher 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag While I am into minor "modernizing" of the '3a I am thinking about the starter, never had a problem with the stock and still great, but I have read about the modern gear reduction ones being better etc. So, who is a good vendor? What is a good price? Anyone have horror stories to avoid? _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 19 15:46:40 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:46:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters In-Reply-To: <1229960945.229417.1282249068104.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <238459631.228946.1282248705488.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1229960945.229417.1282249068104.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0d9b01cb3fe8$029087a0$07b196e0$@rr.com> > there is a bevel in the ring gear so that the starter engages easily. Tom, the bevel is only needed for the original "Bendix" style starter. With the stock starter, the starter motor starts running first and it's the acceleration of the starter motor that flings the pinion out (or in) to engage the ring gear. The flying gear teeth have to grab and engage instantly, or be torn up. But the gear drive starters are a "pre-engaged" design, which means the gears are engaged (by a big solenoid) before power is applied to the motor. They will work just fine against the 'wrong' side of the ring gear. In fact, Triumph delivered a fair number of TR6 this way (the TR6 also switched to a pre-engaged starter). > So, I'd probably say if it's not broke, it starts well, etc. etc. etc. > why try something new. I've been running a gear-drive starter (from TRF) on my TR3A (and now on the TR3) for many years. I do like it, but I have to agree that it's not worth making the change just for the improvement. In my case, the original starter proved to be inadequate to start my modified (planned 10.5:1 but was probably higher by mistake) motor on a regular basis. After I got tired of rebuilding the starter every year or so, I finally bought the gear-drive. It had no trouble at all with the high compression (but I did go back to lower compression shortly afterwards). But if you do make the switch, please note that the starter you buy must match the ring gear/flywheel that is in the car. It's not at all uncommon to find late cars with early flywheels and vice versa, so check your flywheel before ordering. If you have the late flywheel, you can see the ends of the bolt holes where the ring gear is bolted to the flywheel, through the starter opening. The early flywheel used a press-on ring gear, so no bolt holes at the edge (just the ones for the clutch, which are closer to the center). Friend of mine didn't notice that his early engine had a later flywheel, and the new starter only worked a few times before the gears started to slip. -- Randall From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Thu Aug 19 16:18:15 2010 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 22:18:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters In-Reply-To: <25764.22278.qm@web28304.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <896464586.90237.1282256295860.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> One more caveat to Tom's response: the ring gearing is different on the early vs late starter and the pinion gear has to match.B B You can't just flip the ring gear, well you can, but it won't last long. Actually the whole flywheel setup is different.B I also went to the high speed starter - British Parts Northwest had the best price at teh time as I recall. My bullet nose had been rebuilt but I kept having issues with the rear bushing working loose, even with loctite sleeve stuff.B Still, I prefer the sound of the old starter. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: tfansher at comcast.net, "David Templeton" Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 2:16:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a starters There's much to support in Tom Fansher's recommendation in terms of 'reviving' what may *appear* to be a worn out starter. I gave detailed thought to fitting my Triumph with a hi-torque unit about ten years ago, when old Joe Lucas began to sound very tired and rather lazy. Spent some time talking to a starter and generator rebuilder who claimed the majority of units he'd recommissioned had nothing wrong with them that a thorough clean and a new bendix wouldn't fix. His price was modest and he rebuilt that unit in just under a week. Came back looking like new! Must say that when I refitted it the results were amazing. Leapt into life, cranked far better than it had ever done before and never gave me a moments trouble after that. It was money well spent, I saved a lot through not buying a more modern unit and the savings incurred helped to finance other needy issues. As Tom says, "if it aint broke don't fix it." Try cleaning it as a low cost alternative (?) remedy and make a later decision based on findings after cleaning. Jonmac To: David Templeton Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 19 August, 2010 21:17:48 Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a starters I've rebuilt two TR3's in the past couple of years and have updated to the gear reduction starter in both. I bought from a private party and had to buy another so I can't comment on good vendors. Moss has one but there are others. There's one difference I'm not sure about. The TR3 and early TR4's had a "pull to engage" starter where the drive "pulls back into the ring gear" and there is a bevel in the ring gear so that the starter engages easily. Both my reduction gear starters are "push out to engage" the ring gear so I removed and flipped over the ring gear so that there was no potential for binding/grinding. Actually, in the "new 3" when we installed the OD tranny, I took the opportunity to install a lightened flywheel which had the bevel for a push drive and so I installed the extra reduction gear starter rather than redo the ring gear (and I had it on the shelf). From davidt at opentext.com Thu Aug 19 16:38:41 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 18:38:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters In-Reply-To: <896464586.90237.1282256295860.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Hmmm, should clarify, there is nothing particularly wrong with the current starter. It was rebuilt, it is very strong :-) on occasion it does seem to start turning then it is like the solenoid pulls the gear off the flywheel. I know it isn't that type of starter but it sounds like it :-) and it spins free. Key motivation for this change is 1/ reliability insurance going forward 2/ lower stress on the battery on potentially long start cycles :-P 3/ have a little $$$ left in the '3a resurrection budget. 4/ swmbo understands the need for such items. David From wbeech at flash.net Thu Aug 19 16:46:52 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 16:46:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters In-Reply-To: <25764.22278.qm@web28304.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <1229960945.229417.1282249068104.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <25764.22278.qm@web28304.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Agree with John, my bomb style starter sat for 17 years. Just gave it a good cleaning and so far so good for the past 2000 miles. Mobile Bill On Aug 19, 2010, at 3:16 PM, John Macartney wrote: > There's much to support in Tom Fansher's recommendation in terms of 'reviving' > what may *appear* to be a worn out starter. I gave detailed thought to fitting > my Triumph with a hi-torque unit about ten years ago, when old Joe Lucas began > to sound very tired and rather lazy. Spent some time talking to a starter and > generator rebuilder who claimed the majority of units he'd recommissioned had > nothing wrong with them that a thorough clean and a new bendix wouldn't fix. > His > price was modest and he rebuilt that unit in just under a week. Came back > looking like new! Must say that when I refitted it the results were amazing. > Leapt into life, cranked far better than it had ever done before and never > gave > me a moments trouble after that. It was money well spent, I saved a lot > through > not buying a more modern unit and the savings incurred helped to > finance other > needy issues. As Tom says, "if it aint broke don't fix it." Try > cleaning it as a > low cost alternative (?) remedy and make a later decision > based on findings > after cleaning. > > Jonmac > To: David Templeton > Cc: > triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, 19 August, 2010 21:17:48 > Subject: Re: [TR] > Tr3a starters > > I've rebuilt two TR3's in the past couple of years and have > updated to the gear > reduction starter in both. > > I bought from a private > party and had to buy another so I can't comment on good > vendors. Moss has one > but there are others. There's one difference I'm not sure > about. The TR3 and > early TR4's had a "pull to engage" starter where the drive > "pulls back into > the ring gear" and there is a bevel in the ring gear so that > the starter > engages easily. Both my reduction gear starters are "push out to > engage" the > ring gear so I removed and flipped over the ring gear so that there > was no > potential for binding/grinding. Actually, in the "new 3" when we > installed > the OD tranny, I took the opportunity to install a lightened flywheel > which > had the bevel for a push drive and so I installed the extra reduction gear > starter rather than redo the ring gear (and I had it on the shelf). > > I don't > think that this has been discussed before and maybe it's not a problem, > but > I'd hate for you to find out the hard way that it doesn't work like you'd > want it to. > > Also, my buddy and most knowledgeable friend, thinks that > removing the starter > and taking it apart and REALLY blowing it out helps it > turn faster. He thinks > that 50 years or so of carbon dust from the brushes > floating around and sticking > to various surfaces in the starter motor causes > it to turn more slowly. > > So, I'd probably say if it's not broke, it starts > well, etc. etc. etc. why try > something new. > > Just my 2 cents worth. > Tom > Fansher > 60 TR3A > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 73 Stag > > While I am into minor > "modernizing" of the '3a I am thinking about the > starter, never had a problem > with the stock and still great, but I have read > about the modern gear > reduction ones being better etc. > > So, who is a good vendor? What is a good > price? Anyone have horror stories to > avoid? > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 19 18:17:05 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 17:17:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters In-Reply-To: References: <896464586.90237.1282256295860.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0e1801cb3ffd$08b952f0$1a2bf8d0$@rr.com> > on occasion it does seem to > start turning then it is like the solenoid pulls the gear off the > flywheel. I know it isn't that type of starter but it sounds like it :-) and it > spins free. That's just the nature of Bendix starter drives, IMO. If one cylinder fires, it kicks the starter "out of gear", even if the next cylinder doesn't make it. You then have to back off the button and wait for the starter motor to quit spinning before hitting the button again. This is even mentioned in the handbook (although not very clearly). I'd forgotten that ... very frustrating if only one cylinder wants to run! (Typically in cold weather or when the engine is overdue for a tune-up.) But it happened to me occasionally even in warm weather and a freshly tuned engine. -- Randall From mark at bradakis.com Thu Aug 19 18:56:09 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 18:56:09 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A Message-ID: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=105 mjb, the lucky lad. From davidt at opentext.com Thu Aug 19 19:17:20 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 21:17:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters In-Reply-To: <0e1801cb3ffd$08b952f0$1a2bf8d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Ah well that makes complete sense now :-P. So it means that it is running absolutely perfectly woo hoo David ----- Original Message ----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu Aug 19 20:17:05 2010 Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a starters > on occasion it does seem to > start turning then it is like the solenoid pulls the gear off the > flywheel. I know it isn't that type of starter but it sounds like it :-) and it > spins free. That's just the nature of Bendix starter drives, IMO. If one cylinder fires, it kicks the starter "out of gear", even if the next cylinder doesn't make it. You then have to back off the button and wait for the starter motor to quit spinning before hitting the button again. This is even mentioned in the handbook (although not very clearly). I'd forgotten that ... very frustrating if only one cylinder wants to run! (Typically in cold weather or when the engine is overdue for a tune-up.) But it happened to me occasionally even in warm weather and a freshly tuned engine. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt at opentext.com From triumph.driver at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 19:37:23 2010 From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 21:37:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A In-Reply-To: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> References: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <2278F78EE5AC4FF4B74496946C93464F@chuck> Mark, Ouch! Other than bumps and bruises, I'm glad you weren't more seriously hurt. From the looks of your van, you were very lucky. Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:56 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=105 mjb, the lucky lad. From davidt at opentext.com Thu Aug 19 19:38:58 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 21:38:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A In-Reply-To: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Wow!!!! Thank goodness for modern safety equipment. Glad to see your ok, that is the most important thing Regards David Templeton ----- Original Message ----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu Aug 19 20:56:09 2010 Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=105 mjb, the lucky lad. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt at opentext.com From pethier at comcast.net Thu Aug 19 19:52:45 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 01:52:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A In-Reply-To: <1969797756.105125.1282269020992.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <187609099.105215.1282269165657.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Man. I'm sorry for your trouble. Your car looks pretty-well totaled. I am SO glad you were not in a Spitfire. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark J Bradakis" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 7:56:09 PM > Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A > > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=105 > > > mjb, the lucky lad. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Aug 19 19:53:08 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 20:53:08 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Tr3a starters Message-ID: <703064663.1451355.1282269188340.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> Just from a TR6 angle, I have the reduction starter in the box and will install it when the original fails. I've heard from many folks that they like the "sound" of the original, and I can relate to that in the way I like the "sound" of the original exhaust. Just one man's opinion, I think either way you go, the "sound" will only be there for a few seconds. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Aug 19, 2010, Randall wrote: > on occasion it does seem to > start turning then it is like the solenoid pulls the gear off the > flywheel. I know it isn't that type of starter but it sounds like it :-) and it > spins free. That's just the nature of Bendix starter drives, IMO. If one cylinder fires, it kicks the starter "out of gear", even if the next cylinder doesn't make it. You then have to back off the button and wait for the starter motor to quit spinning before hitting the button again. This is even mentioned in the handbook (although not very clearly). I'd forgotten that ... very frustrating if only one cylinder wants to run! (Typically in cold weather or when the engine is overdue for a tune-up.) But it happened to me occasionally even in warm weather and a freshly tuned engine. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From tom628 at verizon.net Thu Aug 19 20:01:16 2010 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 22:01:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A References: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <93A3DE88D19D45D2BA2D001C3C5E3A03@Toms> Really sorry to hear that, Mark. Terrible way to ruin a trip. I hope your injuries all all minor. Best wishes. Tom Note ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" To: Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:56 PM Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=105 > > > mjb, the lucky lad. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net From jhassall at blacksburg.net Thu Aug 19 20:29:44 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 22:29:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Leaking Push Rod Tubes on TR4A engine? In-Reply-To: <4C6C9016.6060403@gmail.com> References: <4C6C9016.6060403@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C6DE898.3060909@blacksburg.net> On 8/18/2010 9:59 PM, Ben Zwissler wrote: > I've got about 700 miles on my TR4A after its rebuild. I've been > tracking down some oil leaks and it seems I've got oil leaking from > the push rod tubes in the head. I reached that conclusion after > installing one of Justin Wagner's silicon valve cover gaskets and > degreasing the head. Oil reappeared only around the pushrod tubes. > Anyone have experience with this? I had the head gone over by a > machine shop - new valve guides, valve job, etc. They cleaned it, but > did not hot tank it due to a prior experience with the tubes > dissolving. When reassembling I did not add any sealant specifically > on the tubes. Overall, the engine's not a horrible leaker but I'd > like it to be better. > > Thanks for any advice. Ben..... > Ben, I think Jack Drews, of FoT fame, did a write up years ago about this problem. He tried a number of solutions, including applying locktite stud sealer at the head/tube interface on the outside. I think he mentioned that some folks have applied a bead of J.B. Weld (or similar) around the tubes on the inside of the head. Try searching Tony's site (www. tonydrews.com). hth j -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Aug 19 20:52:15 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 22:52:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A In-Reply-To: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4C6DB59F.29817.53B2B2@localhost> On 19 Aug 2010 at 18:56, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=105 Good heavens, may you not be hurt seriously and recover quickly from everything else. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From pcaffrey at ymail.com Thu Aug 19 21:02:55 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 20:02:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A In-Reply-To: <93A3DE88D19D45D2BA2D001C3C5E3A03@Toms> References: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> <93A3DE88D19D45D2BA2D001C3C5E3A03@Toms> Message-ID: <340770.5562.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Ditto....Plus, get medical attention if you suspect a problem. Pat TR4A '67 1CTC/72746-L From wbeech at flash.net Thu Aug 19 22:43:37 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 22:43:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A In-Reply-To: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> References: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <53622B5FDC934608B7145EA6DA76207C@bboffice> Mark, Sorry to see your trip cut short, glad to see you are ok save the bruises. Rain was REAL bad here in SLC, some folks not as lucky as yourself. I know they will miss you in Topeka. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 6:56 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=105 mjb, the lucky lad. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 06:59:26 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 08:59:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A In-Reply-To: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> References: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Glad to hear you are mostly ok. I am guilty of driving too fast in heavy rain (just ask my wife) - I'll take this as a wake up call. Thanks for sharing. From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 12:45:17 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 14:45:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ever hear of an solid axle tube pulling away from the Differential housing - TR4 Message-ID: I was at a friends shop and he was working on a TR4a where the axle tube had pulled out of the differential case. I'd never heard of that before. Well - I was giving the underside of my car a cleaning at lunch today and boy does it look like my Axle may be trying to pull out as well. http://tiny.cc/ql0id this is a pic from under the rear of the car pointed at the drivers side of where the axle tube mates with the hogs head. Hopefully paint just never got into that area. I'm going to put some paint back on it and see if I see more clean metal - it will either move in and out and remove the paint or pull out more... I have one of those mystery clunks as well. Anyone got any ideas or more informatoin here? This weekend is Toyota transmission install weekend. I've got all the parts together for Hermans conversion. Wish me luck! Chris 63 T From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Fri Aug 20 13:21:29 2010 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 15:21:29 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 Oil Filter Adapter Message-ID: <625fd.565f49c7.39a02fb9@aol.com> Worked this morning trying to fit the spin on oil filter adapter from Rimmer on my LHD GT6. After removing the side cover under the hood I was able to extract the canister and fit the adapter. Problem is there is no way to get the oil filter in there unless I remove the relief valve and then there is no guarantee that I will be able to get it back in. I am using the filter supplied and can't find a shorter one. Any suggestions? If I have to disassemble stuff every time I change the filter I'll just put the canister back on and send this one back. Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 20 14:55:49 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 13:55:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ever hear of an solid axle tube pulling away from the Differential housing - TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0fb301cb40aa$12276220$36762660$@rr.com> > Anyone got any ideas or more informatoin here? I've certainly heard of the problem before, but only in a race setting. Unfortunately I seem to have neglected to save the suggestions for a cure; I only know that welding will NOT work. Rather than waiting to see if it gets worse, I would check the halfshaft end-play. If the tube has actually moved at all, the endplay will be huge. I'm not sure what the TR4 spec is offhand, but the TR3 spec is only .004" to .006". -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 15:51:39 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 14:51:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 Oil Filter Adapter In-Reply-To: <625fd.565f49c7.39a02fb9@aol.com> References: <625fd.565f49c7.39a02fb9@aol.com> Message-ID: On 8/20/10, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: > ...Problem is there is no way to get the oil filter in there... I have always used a (Fram) PH2870 or similar on the spin-on adaptor on the 'TRactor' engines. It is fairly long. Looking on the shelf at the filter used on our 6-cyl Toyota (4Runner) it has what appears to be an identically sized gasket and threaded connection but the total length is only 3.25". Sooo... perhaps it would connect up, what I can't say is 'is a filter a filter'? Maybe not but seems like something that is enough filter for a modern Toyota 6-cyl might be adequate for a Triumph engine. Use at your own risk, YMMV, yada yada yada. Geo From chandler.rick at comcast.net Fri Aug 20 16:27:58 2010 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 15:27:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Venting the TR3A Valve Cover Message-ID: <2F56EAFD4D2545B29A59263832CB6C73@ricksoffice> My TR3A came to me a few years ago with a usable TR4 Valve Cover. This cover, with an oil filler vent capped with a SEALED cap, and a small fume vent, appears to be the only type available today. The TR3A OEM breather cap will not fit on the filler vent, so whatever venting is needed must be accommodated by the fume vent and the open crankcase vent in the engine block. The fume vent was originally there to carry the fumes and air into the carb air filter of a TR4. I originally plugged this vent with a short piece of oil line, but I noticed today that there is a modest pulsing pressure there (3-4 psi?) that must originate in the crankcase, and I'm now wondering if plugging it was a wise thing to do. How should I set this valve cover up? Rick in Seattle 1960 Triumph TR3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 20 17:13:18 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 16:13:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 Oil Filter Adapter In-Reply-To: References: <625fd.565f49c7.39a02fb9@aol.com> Message-ID: <100301cb40bd$46d1c3e0$d4754ba0$@rr.com> > Sooo... perhaps it would connect up, what I can't say is 'is a filter > a filter'? I can pretty much promise it ain't that easy! First filter change on the 'new' TR3, I found what looked like the same filter sitting on a shelf in the garage. Didn't bother to check the number, as I know that Fram changes them from time to time anyway. Spent an embarrassingly long time under the car, wondering why I couldn't get it to thread onto the adapter ... Turns out, that filter was for my LBC support vehicle (Buick wagon)! Absolutely identical, except (smaller) metric threads in the end. There are lots of potential internal differences as well, like the presence of bypass valves, anti-drainback valves and so on. But those seem less relevant for a spin-on adapter (unless the original canister had the bypass valve incorporated in the canister, like the Stag/TR7 do). -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 17:32:12 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 16:32:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Venting the TR3A Valve Cover In-Reply-To: <2F56EAFD4D2545B29A59263832CB6C73@ricksoffice> References: <2F56EAFD4D2545B29A59263832CB6C73@ricksoffice> Message-ID: On 8/20/10, Rick wrote: > My TR3A came to me a few years ago with a usable TR4 Valve Cover. The simplest solution may be to obtain a TR3 cover (used) from ebay or elsewhere. May have to have it rechromed to be presentable but they are typically not expensive (you may even break even when you sell the TR4 cover). Or... I recall someone converting the sealed opening of a TR4 cover to the type that takes a vented cap by using a short length of chrome sink drain pipe from the plumbing section of Home Depot. I think the drain pipe had a flange on it that fit into the sealed cap opening. Do not know how it was secured but given the really ghetto nature of this mod I suspect JBWeld may have been involved. Geo From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Aug 20 17:35:59 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 16:35:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Howling Noise Message-ID: <145682.66560.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> So today my TR3A starts to make a howling noise from the engine somewhere. It sounds like someone blowing over the neck of a bottle, but more high pitched. It sounds like it is coming from the left side of the engine, but I am not sure. It is pretty loud and can be heard at idle but appears to diminish with speed. I am in the initial phases of troubleshooting. I fear that it might be a spinning bearing or something. I'll run a stethoscope around to see if I can find a general area. Any suggestions on troubleshooting? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From davidt at opentext.com Fri Aug 20 18:28:10 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 20:28:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a alternator conversion Message-ID: Evening all, So, having tracked down a used control box that I don't feel bad taking apart :-), corroded inside. I saw a set of instructions and pics online for the needed changes to add the alternator but didn't save them :-(. Anyone have good links etc for reference? Thanks in advance David From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Fri Aug 20 18:44:46 2010 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 17:44:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Howling Noise In-Reply-To: <145682.66560.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <145682.66560.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C6F217E.60308@comcast.net> Are you sure it's not just the fan belt? Easy enough to fix with a bar of soap, assuming the tension is correct of course. Bob On 8/20/2010 4:35 PM, William Brewer wrote: > So today my TR3A starts to make a howling noise from the engine somewhere. It sounds like someone blowing over the neck of a bottle, but more high pitched. It sounds like it is coming from the left side of the engine, but I am not sure. It is pretty loud and can be heard at idle but appears to diminish with speed. > I am in the initial phases of troubleshooting. I fear that it might be a spinning bearing or something. I'll run a stethoscope around to see if I can find a general area. > Any suggestions on troubleshooting? > TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 20 18:45:26 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 17:45:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A In-Reply-To: References: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <657964.5218.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> get well soon mark Frank ________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 20 19:08:24 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 18:08:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Howling Noise In-Reply-To: <145682.66560.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <145682.66560.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <104901cb40cd$5b950fc0$12bf2f40$@rr.com> My first thought would be a stuck starter drive, so the starter motor is being forced to turn all the time. -- Randall From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Fri Aug 20 19:15:56 2010 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 18:15:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: TR3 Howling Noise Message-ID: <4C6F28CC.30302@comcast.net> Are you sure it's not just the fan belt? Easy enough to fix with a bar of soap, assuming the tension is correct of course. Bob On 8/20/2010 4:35 PM, William Brewer wrote: > So today my TR3A starts to make a howling noise from the engine somewhere. It sounds like someone blowing over the neck of a bottle, but more high pitched. It sounds like it is coming from the left side of the engine, but I am not sure. It is pretty loud and can be heard at idle but appears to diminish with speed. > I am in the initial phases of troubleshooting. I fear that it might be a spinning bearing or something. I'll run a stethoscope around to see if I can find a general area. > Any suggestions on troubleshooting? > TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Fri Aug 20 19:21:22 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 21:21:22 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Howling Noise Message-ID: <242c2.60136dfa.39a08412@aol.com> Or, just for diagnosis sake, spray some penetrating lubricant on the fan belt and see if the noise goes away or changes. Tim From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 20 21:11:56 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 20:11:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] So much for plan A Message-ID: <116484.33095.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List! Mark, I'm very glad that the injuries to your body were minor, but the next day may tell a different story (I hope Not for the worst). It's a shame that you are missing the recognition that you deserve through all your hard work. It's a shame on the van, but I'm sure you will agree that it was best in that than something smaller with out the airbag. Like Pat C. mentioned, if you notice body ailments, then get it checked out, Because something small now could grow into something larger. Glad that you're still alive & hope nothing else bad happens to you. -Cosmo Kramer From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 22:00:56 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 21:00:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] So much for plan A In-Reply-To: <116484.33095.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <116484.33095.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C6F4F78.5020707@gmail.com> > Mark, I'm very glad that the injuries to your body were minor, but the next > day may tell a different story (I hope Not for the worst). > yes, me too. I'm quite glad that you survived plan A intact and hopefully healthy. But I'm getting really curious about plan B. Teriann From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Aug 20 23:10:56 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 22:10:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Flywheel Message-ID: What is the current "consensus" for securing the TR3 Flywheel so the bolts can be properly torqued ??? Thanks ... And Mark ... so sorry for all your bad luck ... Just remember, we can't, well I can't for one, do without you ... -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Aug 21 06:54:56 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 12:54:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Tr3a alternator conversion In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <485712278.303667.1282395296568.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> The directions I used were from Dan Masters on the VTR web site. Hope this helps. Tom From hdrider570 at att.net Sat Aug 21 07:59:06 2010 From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 06:59:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Leaking Push Rod Tubes on TR4A engine? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <150593.86442.qm@web83809.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I had the same problem with the Herald engine that uses the same design of pushrod tubes. I tried some green lock-tite which helped but what cured it was reflaring the tubes. I used an old, small drill chuck that fit inside of the flare and tapped repeatedly with a hammer. I had removed the head so I did both sides but you could try doing it on one side with the head still installed on the car with the pushrods removed. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From davidt at opentext.com Sat Aug 21 11:20:14 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:20:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a alternator conversion In-Reply-To: <485712278.303667.1282395296568.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: It does, that was one of the links, there was a colour wiring diagram reference too somewhere that I am just kicking myself for not saving. David ________________________________ From: tfansher at comcast.net To: David Templeton Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat Aug 21 08:54:56 2010 Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a alternator conversion The directions I used were from Dan Masters on the VTR web site. Hope this helps. Tom From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Aug 21 11:24:46 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 12:24:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Venting_the_TR3A_Valve_Cover?= Message-ID: <20100821172345.442F018766E@autox.team.net> If anyone needs a tr4 valve cover with vent pipe, I have some. Contact off list. Ray. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" Date: Fri, Aug 20, 2010 18:32 Subject: [TR] Venting the TR3A Valve Cover To: "Rick" Cc: On 8/20/10, Rick wrote: > My TR3A came to me a few years ago with a usable TR4 Valve Cover. The simplest solution may be to obtain a TR3 cover (used) from ebay or elsewhere. May have to have it rechromed to be presentable but they are typically not expensive (you may even break even when you sell the TR4 cover). Or... I recall someone converting the sealed opening of a TR4 cover to the type that takes a vented cap by using a short length of chrome sink drain pipe from the plumbing section of Home Depot. I think the drain pipe had a flange on it that fit into the sealed cap opening. Do not know how it was secured but given the really ghetto nature of this mod I suspect JBWeld may have been involved. Geo _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sat Aug 21 12:40:18 2010 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 20:40:18 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR3 Howling Noise References: <145682.66560.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5D618FE911D24D929A50010536E2F2FA@Study> I had this once and it turned out to be either the tacho drive or the speedo drive (can't remember now)which had run out of an lubrication. Istr disconnecting the drive and easing thin oil down it and all is well even unto this day. Of course YMMV David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 11358 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From jdemuth at ties2.net Sat Aug 21 13:32:09 2010 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 14:32:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid Reservoir Message-ID: <26A84854-4661-484E-AE14-3183057F783B@ties2.net> List, has anybody refurbished a TR3 brake fluid reservoir? I've got one apart, I was surprised it came apart. The can looks good but it leaked past the fittings on the bottom. It appears that the aluminum washers have given up the fight. Could I use copper washers instead? Also, there is a large (1 inch OD) washer on the brake side, inside the can, but the clutch chamber did not have a washer. Does it just seal to the bottom inside of the can using its rim as a washer. Seems a bit iffy. I was thinking of putting a washer there, also. Any help/ ideas/advice is appreciated. From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Aug 21 13:32:55 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 15:32:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Leaking Push Rod Tubes on TR4A engine? References: <4C6C9016.6060403@gmail.com> <4C6DE898.3060909@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <2684226F5AED4717AD4ADD38C9306E08@DCS78M81> In looking for something else, I found a link to the Jack Drews' fix at Terri Ann's site. If you've not found it try that. Tom From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 21 14:54:35 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 14:54:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid Reservoir In-Reply-To: <26A84854-4661-484E-AE14-3183057F783B@ties2.net> References: <26A84854-4661-484E-AE14-3183057F783B@ties2.net> Message-ID: <0964903CCCA94FE4BFF3F581F7A03456@bboffice> I used copper washers when I rebuild my can last year and so far so good. Other have used a type of rubber washer that is probably very effective as well. ISTR that the big washer under the center reservoir is to help hold it in shape when you tighten everything down. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 1:32 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid Reservoir List, has anybody refurbished a TR3 brake fluid reservoir? I've got one apart, I was surprised it came apart. The can looks good but it leaked past the fittings on the bottom. It appears that the aluminum washers have given up the fight. Could I use copper washers instead? Also, there is a large (1 inch OD) washer on the brake side, inside the can, but the clutch chamber did not have a washer. Does it just seal to the bottom inside of the can using its rim as a washer. Seems a bit iffy. I was thinking of putting a washer there, also. Any help/ ideas/advice is appreciated. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Aug 21 16:11:38 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 18:11:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid Reservoir References: <26A84854-4661-484E-AE14-3183057F783B@ties2.net> Message-ID: I cut new aluminum washers from an old license plate and it's working well. Tom From agraham at execulink.com Sat Aug 21 16:18:20 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 18:18:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 radiator mounting Message-ID: <4C7050AC.80907@execulink.com> Hello List: Looking at my new re-cored rad and recalling the awkward process in getting at the bolts to remove the rad. Has anyone changed the mounting method for the rad on the side-screen cars? Remove the captive nuts on the rad mounts and use nuts and bolts from the bottom up? Wondering about other solutions for this awkward nut/bolt location. Recall a discussion about this on the list a few years ago, but a search of the archives didn't turn up anything. Thanks in advance. Angelo Graham From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Aug 21 17:18:49 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 16:18:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Flywheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 8/20/10, Bill wrote: > What is the current "consensus" for securing the TR3 Flywheel so the > bolts can be properly torqued ??? Can't say it's a consensus, but since the head was still on mine I used 'the rope trick' (i.e. stuffed a length of soft rope into an open spark plug hole and brought that cylinder up until it would move no more). Geo From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sat Aug 21 17:51:26 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 19:51:26 EDT Subject: [TR] TR2/3 radiator mounting Message-ID: <1fe87.507522e1.39a1c07e@aol.com> Hi Angelo; Here's what the TR Register in Australia has to say about that: "This trick makes it a little easier to remove & fit the bottom radiator bolts. Cut a screwdriver slot in the threaded end of the machine screw. Once it is loosened with a spanner , it can be removed & replaced with a screwdriver. Tighten finally with a spanner. Use anti-seize on the thread to keep it free to turn." Tim From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 21 17:52:15 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 16:52:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 radiator mounting In-Reply-To: <4C7050AC.80907@execulink.com> References: <4C7050AC.80907@execulink.com> Message-ID: <08f101cb418b$e1ed3570$0301a8c0@randall> > Wondering about other solutions for this awkward nut/bolt location. There have been several solutions mentioned. Bob Schaller wrote in "More BS about TRs" about replacing the large bolt with a smaller one that stays fixed to the frame (with a nut & washers) and the radiator slides down over it. I found that I was able to get in there with a 1/4" drive 'wobble' extension on my 56: http://tinyurl.com/263an6k but the 59 had socket-head cap screws that could be turned with a 'wobble' Allen wrench: http://tinyurl.com/2bp8ky3 I knew the frame flexed quite a bit, and was worried that it would flex more with my sway bars, wide tires, etc.; so the SHCS also included springs under the head, so the radiator would not be twisted when the frame flexed. Probably irrelevant, but that's what I did. Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Aug 21 18:07:30 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 20:07:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 radiator mounting References: <4C7050AC.80907@execulink.com> Message-ID: I did this on my car quite a few years ago, but here goes.. Don't remove the capture nut, but thread a bolt (same size but longer) up thru the capture nut and then put the radiator on and install the nut from the top. Much simpler than trying to install the bolt from the top. Hope this helps Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag From mmarr at notwires.com Sat Aug 21 20:42:08 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 21:42:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fun slide show Message-ID: <7B2367426181460592D7F6C88DBF8117@trigeni.com> The "Telegraph's" take on classic British cars... I have ridden in sevceral Hindustani Ambassadors. Michael Marr 1960 TR3A Plainfield, IL From mmarr at notwires.com Sat Aug 21 20:43:43 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 21:43:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: Fun slide show Message-ID: <7DBEF695E54E488E9B05404D68E10D35@trigeni.com> Forgot to include the link! http://tinyurl.com/2dneo6k ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Marr To: Triumphs List Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 9:42 PM Subject: Fun slide show The "Telegraph's" take on classic British cars... I have ridden in sevceral Hindustani Ambassadors. Michael Marr 1960 TR3A Plainfield, IL From dave at ranteer.com Sat Aug 21 21:41:58 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 22:41:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr6 coil In-Reply-To: References: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><45ECDC12-8B4C-4A6E-8D74-128CB4411864@gmail.com><4C693BE1.50201@gmail.com> Message-ID: <66D275E6A2AA4BC993A6314370B59BA6@ranteer.local> hi. my bosch coil apparently died. I'm running a spare lucas sport; does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement (need part #!) thanks From mdporter at dfn.com Sat Aug 21 22:06:55 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 22:06:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fun slide show In-Reply-To: <7B2367426181460592D7F6C88DBF8117@trigeni.com> References: <7B2367426181460592D7F6C88DBF8117@trigeni.com> Message-ID: <4C70A25F.4040500@dfn.com> On 8/21/2010 8:42 PM, Michael Marr wrote: > The "Telegraph's" take on classic British cars... > > I have ridden in sevceral Hindustani Ambassadors. > Chances of a relaunch of the Morris Minor are 8 in 10? Now, it was cute in its day, but, c'mon, what are they smokin' at /The Telegraph?/ Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Aug 22 06:47:54 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 12:47:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Installing Heat Shield Message-ID: <291154713.306490.1282481274959.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I am finally getting ready to install the interior ofB my '59 TR3A 7yr restoration.B I had purchased some time ago a roll of Moss's Heatshield material that has the foil on the one side of the 1/4" felt. I assume the foil side faces down. My question is do you glue this to the floor, tunnel and fire wallB or use the carpet and its hold downs (seat rails, fire wall clips, etc.) to hold it in place. I have always been of the opinion that it is best not to glue anything so that when that inevitable water gets in the cabin, you can easily pull the carpet and padding to let all dry out. Anyone's experince in installuing the heatshield material would be appreciated. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A From dave at ranteer.com Sun Aug 22 08:45:19 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 09:45:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Fw: Fun slide show In-Reply-To: <7DBEF695E54E488E9B05404D68E10D35@trigeni.com> References: <7DBEF695E54E488E9B05404D68E10D35@trigeni.com> Message-ID: my favorite - a typo on the TR7 page - "who wants to be reminded of BL's gory years" of course, given the state of the british automobile industry then, maybe its not a typo . . . > http://tinyurl.com/2dneo6k > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael Marr > To: Triumphs List > Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 9:42 PM > Subject: Fun slide show > > > The "Telegraph's" take on classic British cars... > > I have ridden in sevceral Hindustani Ambassadors. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Aug 22 10:35:58 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 12:35:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid Reservoir In-Reply-To: <26A84854-4661-484E-AE14-3183057F783B@ties2.net> References: <26A84854-4661-484E-AE14-3183057F783B@ties2.net> Message-ID: <201008221235.59440.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday, August 21, 2010 03:32:09 pm Joe DeMuth wrote: > List, has anybody refurbished a TR3 brake fluid reservoir? I've got > one apart, I was surprised it came apart. The can looks good but it > leaked past the fittings on the bottom. It appears that the aluminum > washers have given up the fight. Could I use copper washers instead? > Also, there is a large (1 inch OD) washer on the brake side, inside > the can, but the clutch chamber did not have a washer. Does it just > seal to the bottom inside of the can using its rim as a washer. Seems > a bit iffy. I was thinking of putting a washer there, also. Any help/ > ideas/advice is appreciated. > > _______________________________________________ Joe, I replaced the aluminum washers with copper many years ago and then soldered the whole bottom. I can never see a need to see the need to ever take it apart and so far in over 30 years of ownership, I was correct. Bob From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sun Aug 22 11:19:54 2010 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 10:19:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Installing Heat Shield In-Reply-To: <291154713.306490.1282481274959.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <291154713.306490.1282481274959.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C715C3A.9040104@comcast.net> For better or worse, I glued it to the carpet - glue on the non-foil side. Bob On 8/22/2010 5:47 AM, suhringtr36 at comcast.net wrote: > I am finally getting ready to install the interior ofB my '59 TR3A 7yr > restoration.B I had purchased some time ago a roll of Moss's Heatshield > material that has the foil on the one side of the 1/4" felt. I assume the foil > side faces down. My question is do you glue this to the floor, tunnel and fire > wallB or use the carpet and its hold downs (seat rails, fire wall clips, etc.) > to hold it in place. I have always been of the opinion that it is best not to > glue anything so that when that inevitable water gets in the cabin, you can > easily pull the carpet and padding to let all dry out. Anyone's experince in > installuing the heatshield material would be appreciated. > > > > Scott Suhring From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Aug 22 11:19:51 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 10:19:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Installing Heat Shield In-Reply-To: <291154713.306490.1282481274959.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <291154713.306490.1282481274959.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: On 8/22/10, suhringtr36 at comcast.net wrote: > ...I have always been of the opinion that it is best not to glue anything... That has always been my opinion and practice too. Yes, the shiny side goes towards the heat source (i.e down). Geo From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Aug 22 11:21:52 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 11:21:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] Installing Heat Shield In-Reply-To: <291154713.306490.1282481274959.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <291154713.306490.1282481274959.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20D1F04A-A22D-4C24-9BED-0506DFF8A898@comcast.net> I didn't glue mine. I cut and formed it to the tub in about 4-6 pieces and then taped those together on top of the heatshield once it was all laying in the tub. The carpet, seats and everything else will keep it in place. I used foil covered bubble wrap from Home Depot and it has been just fine for 13 years. Reduced noise and the heat very effectively and was a cheap solution that has become a great value towards making road trips enjoyable. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Aug 22, 2010, at 6:47 AM, suhringtr36 at comcast.net wrote: > I am finally getting ready to install the interior ofB my '59 TR3A 7yr > restoration.B I had purchased some time ago a roll of Moss's > Heatshield > material that has the foil on the one side of the 1/4" felt. I > assume the foil > side faces down. My question is do you glue this to the floor, > tunnel and fire > wallB or use the carpet and its hold downs (seat rails, fire wall > clips, etc.) > to hold it in place. I have always been of the opinion that it is > best not to > glue anything so that when that inevitable water gets in the cabin, > you can > easily pull the carpet and padding to let all dry out. Anyone's > experince in > installuing the heatshield material would be appreciated. > > > > Scott Suhring > > Mechanicsburg, PA > > '70 TR6 > > '59 TR3A > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 22 11:24:59 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 10:24:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr6 coil In-Reply-To: <66D275E6A2AA4BC993A6314370B59BA6@ranteer.local> References: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><45ECDC12-8B4C-4A6E-8D74-128CB4411864@gmail.com><4C693BE1.50201@gmail.com> <66D275E6A2AA4BC993A6314370B59BA6@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <09ed01cb421e$f2ebc1a0$0301a8c0@randall> > hi. my bosch coil apparently died. I'm running a spare > lucas sport; does > anyone have a recommendation for a replacement (need part #!) You left out an important piece of information: what year is your TR6. Early TR6 (through 72 I think) take an unballasted coil; later years have a ballast incorporated in the wiring harness and so take a coil that required an external ballast. Generally, only the "ballast required" coils are on the shelf at the corner FLAPS; you'll likely have to go to a LBC (or similar) specialist for an unballasted coil. My suggestion would be a Pertronix "Flame Thrower" coil, either 40511 (unballasted) or 40011 (ballast required). These are available many places, TRF has them as P/N PTR201 and PTR202 respectively; "on sale" for $32 through Thursday. Randall From dbyam at tds.net Sun Aug 22 13:44:09 2010 From: dbyam at tds.net (dbyam tds.net) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 15:44:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alternator Mounting Bracket Message-ID: My decision to switch to an alternator on my TR-4A started a quest for a suitable bracket. Lacking a source I decided to engineer my own. I don't know if my bracket will fit other four cylinder models, without modification, but I'm throwing the print and other documentation out to you fellow owners for your use or reproduction. Doug Byam [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Alt mtg print.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Alt mtg bracket instructions0001.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Alt mtg bracket instructions.JPG] From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Aug 22 15:58:20 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 17:58:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 radiator mounting In-Reply-To: References: <4C7050AC.80907@execulink.com> Message-ID: <003601cb4245$245afaf0$6d10f0d0$@net> My radiator has the capture nut on the mounting flange - designed so that the bolt comes from underneath and tightens the radiator down onto the frame. To mount a bolt to "drop" the radiator onto - the capture nut would have to be removed. I found that with the front apron off there really wasn't an issue of getting the bolt/capture nut to function as designed... I did follow a suggestion made earlier by Tom to shave 3/8" from each end of the fan extension and the 6 blade yellow fan fits like it was meant to be.... There is about 3/8" between the fan and the radiator. Thanks Tom. Carl -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of THOMAS FANSHER Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 8:08 PM To: Angelo Graham; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 radiator mounting I did this on my car quite a few years ago, but here goes.. Don't remove the capture nut, but thread a bolt (same size but longer) up thru the capture nut and then put the radiator on and install the nut from the top. Much simpler than trying to install the bolt from the top. Hope this helps Tom From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Aug 22 16:20:11 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 18:20:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] beer tasting at VTR 2010 Message-ID: <8AB99C4CABE44B7D9BF4412E3E526CC0@DCS78M81> Just bottled up a batch of Red Ale. It should be good for Jekyll Island. Having not been able to attend the other beer tasting and seeing that it's on the schedule, what's a good number of 12oz bottles to bring along. I know I'm opening myself up to very large numbers, but this is a fairly serious question. I'm in the TR3.....so space is limited. Although, Janet could bring some in the Stag ;^) Tom From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Aug 22 17:13:39 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 18:13:39 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR2/3 radiator mounting Message-ID: <1177724957.1122480.1282518820086.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Aug 22 17:16:14 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 18:16:14 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] beer tasting at VTR 2010 Message-ID: <1980359992.1122580.1282518974409.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> /7fmuxk: Permission denied From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Aug 22 17:16:14 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 18:16:14 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] beer tasting at VTR 2010 Message-ID: <1755167213.1122581.1282518974613.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 22 17:43:19 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 16:43:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 radiator mounting In-Reply-To: <003601cb4245$245afaf0$6d10f0d0$@net> References: <4C7050AC.80907@execulink.com> <003601cb4245$245afaf0$6d10f0d0$@net> Message-ID: <0a9001cb4253$cd3da880$0301a8c0@randall> > To mount a bolt to "drop" the radiator onto - the > capture nut would have to be removed. Or, as Bob Schaller suggested, used a smaller diameter bolt so the captive nut will fit over it. Yet another way to do a "drop in" installation would be to install a fully-threaded bolt from the top. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Aug 22 17:51:58 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 19:51:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Today it was raining so... Message-ID: <4C717FDE.14320.F21B6E6@localhost> I pulled the gearbox out of the GT6. (Dang, it took longer this time. You'd think it would go faster with practice.) Haven't opened it up yet, don't know what I'll find. From the outside there is nothing obvious which whould have made the noises I was hearing. But it's gotta' be something. At least I know what it should look like. CHeers! Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Aug 22 18:06:52 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 20:06:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 radiator mounting In-Reply-To: <1177724957.1122480.1282518820086.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> References: <1177724957.1122480.1282518820086.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> Message-ID: <000601cb4257$17f4fab0$47def010$@net> Hi Fred b it has been awhile since seeing your name on the listb& Are you going to make it to Jekyll Island? The tropical fan would perhaps be a better solution, but I havenbt seen one from any of the usual suspects (even eBay) for some time. Since I am looking at an Oct 1 target dateb& From: frede.thomas2 [mailto:frede.thomas2 at verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 7:14 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: Re: [TR] TR2/3 radiator mounting T/R4 "TROPICAL" FAN, has 6 high pitch blades, mounts just fine after enlarging just one bolt hole about 1/32" and does a great job of cooling, best part is it does not look out of place such as that @#$#@ ugly yellow fan FT Aug 22, 2010 06:07:14 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote: >My radiator has the capture nut on the mounting flange - designed so that >the bolt comes from underneath and tightens the radiator down onto the >frame. To mount a bolt to "drop" the radiator onto - the capture >nut would >have to be removed. > >I found that with the front apron off there really wasn't an issue of >getting the bolt/capture nut to function as designed... > >I did follow a suggestion made earlier by Tom to shave 3/8" from each end >of >the fan extension and the 6 blade yellow fan fits like it was meant to >be.... There is about 3/8" between the fan and the radiator. Thanks >Tom. > > >Carl > > >-----Original Message----- >From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of THOMAS FANSHER >Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 8:08 PM >To: Angelo Graham; triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 radiator mounting > >I did this on my car quite a few years ago, but here goes.. >Don't remove the capture nut, but thread a bolt (same size but longer) up > >thru the capture nut and then put the radiator on and install the nut from >the top. Much simpler than trying to install the bolt from the top. >Hope this helps >Tom > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: >class="parsedLink" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frede.thomas2@ verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Aug 22 18:11:49 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 20:11:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Breather Pipe Message-ID: <000e01cb4257$d8951cf0$89bf56d0$@net> Did an oops.. Was tightening up the hydraulic and fuel line connections and realized that I hadn't installed the breather pipe. The oops - also forgot to pull out the plug that is in the hole. Is there any secret to getting it out? It is a pressed in 'paint can' type lid (without the doubled over edge). Thanks Carl TS81802LO - getting closer and closer to be back on schedule. Sept 27 will be 10 years off the road for the 3 year restoration.. J Target Date Oct 1 & NATC at Jekyll Island. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Aug 22 18:17:17 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 20:17:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] CORRECTION: TR2/3 radiator mounting References: <4C7050AC.80907@execulink.com> Message-ID: <001801cb4258$8c2b6300$a4822900$@net> That is 3/16 from each end - not 3/8. It is 3/8 total.... -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] I did follow a suggestion made earlier by Tom to shave 3/8" from each end of the fan extension and the 6 blade yellow fan fits like it was meant to be.... There is about 3/8" between the fan and the radiator. Thanks Tom. Carl From spitlist at cox.net Sun Aug 22 19:06:30 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 18:06:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Today it was raining so... In-Reply-To: <4C717FDE.14320.F21B6E6@localhost> Message-ID: <20100823010546.TYMD3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net> When I first built Tiny Tim into a race car, I got really good at dropping the gearbox. I did it so many times that I could have it on the ground in 20 minutes flat. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 4:52 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Today it was raining so... I pulled the gearbox out of the GT6. (Dang, it took longer this time. You'd think it would go faster with practice.) Haven't opened it up yet, don't know what I'll find. From the outside there is nothing obvious which whould have made the noises I was hearing. But it's gotta' be something. At least I know what it should look like. CHeers! Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From mmarr at notwires.com Sun Aug 22 19:13:06 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 20:13:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Fw: Fun slide show References: <7DBEF695E54E488E9B05404D68E10D35@trigeni.com> Message-ID: I assumed that it was not a typo - just a pun. Mike > my favorite - a typo on the TR7 page - "who wants to be reminded of BL's > gory years" > > of course, given the state of the british automobile industry then, maybe > its not a typo . . . From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Aug 22 19:31:20 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 18:31:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Breather Pipe In-Reply-To: <000e01cb4257$d8951cf0$89bf56d0$@net> References: <000e01cb4257$d8951cf0$89bf56d0$@net> Message-ID: On 8/22/10, Carl TR wrote: > ...forgot to pull out the plug that is in the hole. Is there any secret to getting > it out? It is a pressed in... It is just pressed in and rather snug, and not an easy spot to get at. I managed to weaken the face of the plug with a dremel, then drive a stubby screwdriver thru the metal. Once that was in I was able to twist the cap and finally pry it out. They'll never use that cap again. Geo From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Aug 22 19:36:51 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 21:36:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Breather Pipe In-Reply-To: References: <000e01cb4257$d8951cf0$89bf56d0$@net> Message-ID: that is what I was hoping. Will tackle it tomorrow. Thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 9:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Engine Breather Pipe > On 8/22/10, Carl TR wrote: >> ...forgot to pull out the plug that is in the hole. Is there any secret >> to getting >> it out? It is a pressed in... > > It is just pressed in and rather snug, and not an easy spot to get at. > > I managed to weaken the face of the plug with a dremel, then drive a > stubby screwdriver thru the metal. Once that was in I was able to > twist the cap and finally pry it out. They'll never use that cap > again. > > Geo From dave at ranteer.com Sun Aug 22 20:28:47 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 21:28:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re: tr6 coil In-Reply-To: <09ed01cb421e$f2ebc1a0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <610104.86345.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><45ECDC12-8B4C-4A6E-8D74-128CB4411864@gmail.com><4C693BE1.50201@gmail.com><66D275E6A2AA4BC993A6314370B59BA6@ranteer.local> <09ed01cb421e$f2ebc1a0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <42D19B8119A5418FAA2F8B78E84C264A@ranteer.local> special thanks to Randall for this. my car is unballasted; I found that Amazon has it for $30 and you can get free shipping. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Randall" Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 12:24 PM To: "'Triumph List'" Subject: [SPAM] Re: [TR] tr6 coil >> hi. my bosch coil apparently died. I'm running a spare >> lucas sport; does >> anyone have a recommendation for a replacement (need part #!) > > You left out an important piece of information: what year is your TR6. > Early TR6 (through 72 I think) take an unballasted coil; later years have > a > ballast incorporated in the wiring harness and so take a coil that > required > an external ballast. > > My suggestion would be a Pertronix "Flame Thrower" coil, either 40511 > (unballasted) or 40011 (ballast required). These are available many > places, > TRF has them as P/N PTR201 and PTR202 respectively; "on sale" for $32 > through Thursday. > > Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sun Aug 22 22:33:51 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 22:33:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid Reservoir In-Reply-To: <201008221235.59440.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <26A84854-4661-484E-AE14-3183057F783B@ties2.net> <201008221235.59440.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <15C768880AFF409383320726F2C96B18@bboffice> Bob, I thought about that but was afraid the whole can would come apart. What type of solder and heat source did you use? Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 10:36 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Joe DeMuth Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid Reservoir On Saturday, August 21, 2010 03:32:09 pm Joe DeMuth wrote: > List, has anybody refurbished a TR3 brake fluid reservoir? I've got > one apart, I was surprised it came apart. The can looks good but it > leaked past the fittings on the bottom. It appears that the aluminum > washers have given up the fight. Could I use copper washers instead? > Also, there is a large (1 inch OD) washer on the brake side, inside > the can, but the clutch chamber did not have a washer. Does it just > seal to the bottom inside of the can using its rim as a washer. Seems > a bit iffy. I was thinking of putting a washer there, also. Any help/ > ideas/advice is appreciated. > > _______________________________________________ Joe, I replaced the aluminum washers with copper many years ago and then soldered the whole bottom. I can never see a need to see the need to ever take it apart and so far in over 30 years of ownership, I was correct. Bob _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tom628 at verizon.net Sun Aug 22 22:33:54 2010 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 00:33:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Installing Heat Shield References: <291154713.306490.1282481274959.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Scott: I'd think you'd want the foil side up. If you place the foil against the hot surface, it's just a conductor and gets as hot as the floor.. With the felt down against the floor, the felt acts as an insulator, and then the foil reflects that heat and reduces transmission into the interior of the car. JMO Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Triumph Mail List" Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 8:47 AM Subject: [TR] Installing Heat Shield >I am finally getting ready to install the interior ofB my '59 TR3A 7yr > restoration.B I had purchased some time ago a roll of Moss's Heatshield > material that has the foil on the one side of the 1/4" felt. I assume the > foil > side faces down. My question is do you glue this to the floor, tunnel and > fire > wallB or use the carpet and its hold downs (seat rails, fire wall clips, > etc.) > to hold it in place. I have always been of the opinion that it is best not > to > glue anything so that when that inevitable water gets in the cabin, you > can > easily pull the carpet and padding to let all dry out. Anyone's experince > in > installuing the heatshield material would be appreciated. > > > > Scott Suhring > > Mechanicsburg, PA > > '70 TR6 > > '59 TR3A > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net From mark at bradakis.com Mon Aug 23 00:13:00 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 00:13:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] So much for Plan A In-Reply-To: <657964.5218.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <20100820005609.95BDE2E0CA@bradakis.com> <657964.5218.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C72116C.9020300@bradakis.com> I'd like to thank you all for your kind and caring responses to the news of my mishap on the highway. It is nice to know that many of you appreciate what it is I do with Team.Net. And it reminded me that I should make some sort of contingency plan to keep it going. Had the incident on thursday been fatal, Team.Net would have just fizzled out, no warning, no notice. That would not be good. When I wrote about Plan A, I was thinking there might be a Plan B. I could have gotten a flight to Kansas, rented a car and made it to the event at Heartland Park. But even with a strong desire to make it to the races regardless of circumstance, I think it was prudent to sit home and lick my wounds, so to speak. Having a serious side effect or internal injury crop up many miles from home would not be a good thing. Again, my thanks to all for your concern. mjb. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Aug 23 05:29:08 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 07:29:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid Reservoir In-Reply-To: <15C768880AFF409383320726F2C96B18@bboffice> References: <26A84854-4661-484E-AE14-3183057F783B@ties2.net> <201008221235.59440.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <15C768880AFF409383320726F2C96B18@bboffice> Message-ID: <201008230729.09549.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday, August 23, 2010 12:33:51 am wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Bob, > I thought about that but was afraid the whole can would come apart. What > type of solder and heat source did you use? > Bill > Bill, If I remember correctly, I assembled the reservoir as would be expected for normal use but with copper washers. Then I cleaned the entire bottom surfaces with a wire wheel. I used acid core solder and a bernz-o-matic torch using minimal heat. I first circled the 2 outlets to insure a good seal and then proceeded to fill the entire bottom of the reservoir with solder. With acid core, you have to be careful because the acid flux will sometimes cause a bubble which when washed look like a potential leak, that is why the cleaner the surface is the better the application. After it cooled, I washed the solder with soap, water and a old tooth brush to insure all the flux was gone. Before I installed the reservoir, I attached the two lines and suspended the unit in a vice and pored in some fluif and waited a day to make sure there were no leaks. Here it is over 30 years later and still functional. Bob From tbe749 at aol.com Mon Aug 23 06:02:37 2010 From: tbe749 at aol.com (tbe749 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 08:02:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 Oil Filter Adapter In-Reply-To: <625fd.565f49c7.39a02fb9@aol.com> References: <625fd.565f49c7.39a02fb9@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD10D236B20017-19A8-3905D@webmail-d010.sysops.aol.com> Sam It is a tight fit for sure so if they supplied the wrong filter that could be your problem. You definitely have to go in from the bottom underneath the steering rod. You might have problems with the brass brake junction or bolt attached to the frame. Just drained the oil and filter this weekend so I know it will fit Good luck Tom -----Original Message----- From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net; rimmerbros.com at aol.com Cc: tr6 at atlasok.com Sent: Fri, Aug 20, 2010 3:21 pm Subject: [TR] GT6 Oil Filter Adapter Worked this morning trying to fit the spin on oil filter adapter from immer on my LHD GT6. After removing the side cover under the hood I was able o extract the canister and fit the adapter. Problem is there is no way to et the oil filter in there unless I remove the relief valve and then here is no guarantee that I will be able to get it back in. I am using the ilter supplied and can't find a shorter one. Any suggestions? If I have to isassemble stuff every time I change the filter I'll just put the canister ack on and send this one back. am Clark reen Country Triumphs From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Aug 23 09:52:05 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 11:52:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Does anyone have the bolt circle info for TR6 Pressure plate? Message-ID: I need to get my flywheet lindexed and am in need of the bolt circle for the TR6 pressure plate. Does anyone have a tech drawing or the dimension availalbe? Thanks a ton! Chris From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Aug 23 10:34:00 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 12:34:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] beer tasting at VTR 2010 In-Reply-To: <8AB99C4CABE44B7D9BF4412E3E526CC0@DCS78M81> References: <8AB99C4CABE44B7D9BF4412E3E526CC0@DCS78M81> Message-ID: Hi Tom. A six or eight pack will be fine, or whatever you want to bring. The way it works is we open our bottles and set them on a big table. I provide glasses and folks walk around and sample the different beers, so it's not like you have to provide a bottle for everybody. Looking forword to trying your Red Ale. I should be bottling a special batch in a few weeks. Hope it is ready by October. There was some really great beers at the last one. Marty > From: tfansher at comcast.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 18:20:11 -0400 > Subject: [TR] beer tasting at VTR 2010 > > Just bottled up a batch of Red Ale. It should be good for Jekyll Island. > Having not been able to attend the other beer tasting and seeing that it's on > the schedule, what's a good number of 12oz bottles to bring along. I know I'm > opening myself up to very large numbers, but this is a fairly serious > question. I'm in the TR3.....so space is limited. Although, Janet could bring > some in the Stag ;^) > Tom > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trmarty at hotmail.com From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 23 10:49:44 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 09:49:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] A VTR '10 room willing to share Message-ID: <392577.64346.qm@web51602.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List! If there is ANYONE wanting to going to VTR '10 & is still looking for a room, then I have one that I'm willing to share with someone. Please contact me off the list. -Cosmo Kramer From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 23 12:22:21 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 11:22:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid Reservoir In-Reply-To: <15C768880AFF409383320726F2C96B18@bboffice> References: <26A84854-4661-484E-AE14-3183057F783B@ties2.net> <201008221235.59440.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <15C768880AFF409383320726F2C96B18@bboffice> Message-ID: <14cf01cb42f0$23a43760$6aeca620$@rr.com> > I thought about that but was afraid the whole can would come apart. A definite concern, IMO, even though Bob got away with it. I made the mistake of heating the can lightly with a torch, to try to drive off any lingering fluif and get better paint adhesion. Unfortunately, it was enough to melt the solder in the seams, and cause a leak. Sorry, don't recall offhand what I used for washers when reassembling. -- Randall From wquincy at cox.net Mon Aug 23 15:00:37 2010 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:00:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: Greetings listers, Are some of you using synthetic gear oil in your TR3 differentials? Got to wandering as I pulled down my old dusty Quart of 90 W Gear oil from the shelf ..... Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. TR3A TS69623L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 23 16:16:50 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 15:16:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004001cb4310$e31987b0$a94c9710$@rr.com> > Are some of you using synthetic gear oil in your TR3 differentials? I have been using exclusively Valvoline SynPower (full synthetic GL5) gear oil in all my Triumph diffs for many years. Never any issues, and in fact I credit it for making the axle in my TR3A (which was already well worn when I got the car) last for the 150,000+ hard miles that I drove it. -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Aug 23 18:58:10 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 00:58:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Fan Belt In-Reply-To: <633006166.158023.1282610998901.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <195988859.158501.1282611490357.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Did the deed. Pulled the front apron, radiator, fan, hub, and timing chain cover. Replaced the oil seal, installed a Speedi-Sleeve (easy), and started buttoning things back up. ...Except. ...Since the alternator conversion, I've found the stock wide belts are a mite too tight even at the best possible adjustment. In fact, I have to disconnect the alternator and reinstall it with the belt threaded onto all the pulleys. Do-able, but a pain (especially when Number 3 Son borrowed my crowbar to a friend's demolition party and forgot to bring it home). Is there a source for these wide belts that are a tad longer, so it can be changed out without all that fuss? New radiator and hoses, forgot to tape the threads on the bottom valve. Oh well, I'll buy some plumbers tape tomorrow. Did the John Wise heater conversion. Hope to be warm for the first time driving to work in late October! Back on the road probably Thursday. Cheers! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Aug 23 20:18:30 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 22:18:30 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Fan Belt Message-ID: <9640a.49358662.39a485f6@aol.com> Hi Terry; I went through some older e-mails on this, as I'm sure someone had a solution. Sure enough, a chap by the name of Adrian Jones (thanks, Adrian!) came up with this: "The original belt was now too short but what works for me is a cogged Gates TR24379 Green Stripe II Belt 17A0960". Although I'm a Brit living in Canada, I am frequently in touch with the Australian TR Register and have several e-mail/forum friends there. They claim that the Fergie tractor with the "Standard" (i.e. TR-related) engine has a slightly longer length belt. Of course, this could be for the Australian-spec tractors only; they did some weird things for specific markets on tractors back then. The other spanner in the works is that the Aussie TR alternator conversion uses an alternator from a Toyota Dyna, which is a small commercial vehicle not found in North America (and maybe not in Europe either, come to think of it). It has the right size pulley already, but perhaps there is something with that alternator that does not require the belt to be quite as long as when using the N.A. conversion. Tim (sorry for the rambling text there). From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 23 20:44:54 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 19:44:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fan Belt In-Reply-To: <195988859.158501.1282611490357.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <633006166.158023.1282610998901.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <195988859.158501.1282611490357.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0d2d01cb4336$55730f50$0301a8c0@randall> > Is there a source for these wide belts that are a tad longer, > so it can be changed out without all that fuss? You could try a Gates TR28390, which should be about 3/8" longer. Next step would be a TR28400, which is a full inch longer than the 28390. If your local NAPA can't order them, try Google shopping. O'Reilly has the 28390 listed on their website, Jegs has the 28400 listed. If those don't work out, try a Gates TR24379. This is a slightly narrower belt, so it will ride lower in the pulleys (effectively giving more length). Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Aug 24 04:33:03 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 06:33:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fan Belt In-Reply-To: <195988859.158501.1282611490357.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <633006166.158023.1282610998901.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <195988859.158501.1282611490357.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I would not run it with an overly tight belt. In my opinion, It's bad for everything in the loop. - The belt should be on the looser side vs. tight. Just tight enough to run the water pump and alternator without squealing. Something in the range of 1/2 inch deflection with a moderate push of the thumb. With a really thight belt it puts tons of side load on the bearings of the waterpump and dynamo and it likely flexes that little sheet metal pulley on the end of your crankshaft - I ran miine on the tight side for several years and the crank pulley fractrured and blew up while driving. I'm fairly certain it was all my fault.... I got several offers for replacements from this list (great folks here!). It took several tries to find a crankshaft pulley that did not have cracks in it after cleaning the paint off. FWIW, I'd bet several of us are running Crankshaft pulleys with cracks in them. I did the conversion on my TR4 a while back. If you used an alternator pulley part number A203, and a rebuilt alternator for a 75 Camaro, the cogged fan belt from NAPA is part number 2524379 Chris 63 TR4 From rjones at wfeca.net Tue Aug 24 08:01:13 2010 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 10:01:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] New Jersey In-Reply-To: <8AB99C4CABE44B7D9BF4412E3E526CC0@DCS78M81> References: <8AB99C4CABE44B7D9BF4412E3E526CC0@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <9C396E5A-2FEE-4099-82A1-FC3823B2CA7C@wfeca.net> > Would anyone who lives near Fair Haven, NJ contact me at: rjones at wfeca.net. Thanks Bob Jones VTR From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 24 11:21:32 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 13:21:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Installing Heat Shield Message-ID: In a message dated 8/23/2010 12:53:10 AM Central Daylight Time, tom628 at verizon.net writes: > Scott: I'd think you'd want the foil side up. If you place the foil > against > the hot surface, it's just a conductor and gets as hot as the floor.. With > > the felt down against the floor, the felt acts as an insulator, and then > the > foil reflects that heat and reduces transmission into the interior of the > car. JMO > One would think. The best place for the foil (which reflects infrared (radiant) heat) is under the floor board. That is where they put it on the Spitfire. But it needs to be waterproof and most of what you buy is not. But since it is not waterproof, the next best thing is to located it under the carpet. Laying the foil side against the floor boards puts it in contact with the sheetmetal but the contact is less than perfect and there will be gaps. And the mode of heat conduction through the gaps will be via radiation and in this case the foil will reflect the heat back. But practically speaking, I don't think it makes much difference either way. The backing insulation is what is really important so get that in there with or without the foil, foil up or foil down. Dave From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Aug 24 12:24:53 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 12:24:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] Installing Heat Shield In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3DAD2803-1EBD-465D-B117-F5C97E6008D6@comcast.net> Foil covered (both sides) bubble wrap lets you do both ;) Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Aug 24, 2010, at 11:21 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > foil up or foil down. > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue Aug 24 13:21:31 2010 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 14:21:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] GL5 in a diff Message-ID: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C7889E66F8FF@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> Randall: is there no yellow metal in the diff (unlike transmissions) to be concerned about pitting and corrosion, or if there is yellow metal there, is the pitting/corrosion risk from GL5 overstated? Brian > Are some of you using synthetic gear oil in your TR3 differentials? I have been using exclusively Valvoline SynPower (full synthetic GL5) gear oil in all my Triumph diffs for many years. Never any issues, and in fact I credit it for making the axle in my TR3A (which was already well worn when I got the car) last for the 150,000+ hard miles that I drove it. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 24 15:33:12 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 14:33:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] GL5 in a diff In-Reply-To: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C7889E66F8FF@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> References: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C7889E66F8FF@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> Message-ID: <013d01cb43d3$f50ad780$df208680$@rr.com> Brian, There is yellow metal in most Triumph diffs (I'm not sure about TR7/8 offhand, but definitely TR2-6, Spit, Stag, etc), and I believe it can be attacked (slowly) by using the wrong gear oil. The supposedly rebuilt diff I bought for my Stag had fairly severe wear only to the brass thrust washers, likely from the wrong oil; and I suspect that is also the problem with my TR3A diff (although I haven't torn it down yet). However, the problem is not whether the oil is rated GL5 or not; but rather whether it uses an "active sulfur" additive. This additive is also found in most conventional GL4 gear oils, just at a lower level than some GL5 gear oils. The additive breaks down over time (combined with high pressure and heat) to form sulfuric acid, which is what corrodes the copper alloys (aka "yellow metal"). But the Valvoline full synthetic does not contain ANY of this additive, and hence is safe for yellow metal. It is my belief that this is true of any GL5 (or GL4) oil that also meets the MT1 standard. Even though the MT1 standard is intended for heavy duty manual transmissions; it includes a long-term high-temperature stability test that the "active sulfur" additive cannot meet. But YMMV. -- Randall From agraham at execulink.com Tue Aug 24 16:40:31 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 18:40:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Body number plates TR 2/3 Message-ID: <4C744A5F.5090807@execulink.com> Hello List: Just wondering about the body number plates found on the side curtain cars. They are brass or brass plate. Are they supposed to be body colour or brass finish? Have seen them both ways. Not sure what is "correct". Some of the easy finishing touches on my long project. Thanks! Angelo Graham From darrellw at ipns.com Tue Aug 24 17:28:07 2010 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 16:28:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle? Message-ID: <511FB0EF-DFC6-4005-940B-1151C703E65E@ipns.com> Unfortunately, I don't get to drive my TR very often these days. Even though I have a "battery tender", I only seem to get a two or three years from a battery, which ends up being about every other time I can take it out! Anyway, would an Optima perform better for me? Even if it didn't last the 3-4 times longer that it would need to pay off (vs. buying a cheap battery every two years or so), if I could expect it to last twice as long, I might be interested for the convenience of not having to get a new battery every time I drive! -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From wbeech at flash.net Tue Aug 24 18:38:11 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 18:38:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] Body number plates TR 2/3 In-Reply-To: <4C744A5F.5090807@execulink.com> References: <4C744A5F.5090807@execulink.com> Message-ID: <89BC55C7FD9C4A09AD3AE682A593952C@bboffice> Angelo, If you are talking about the two plates located just above the battery box, the answer to your question is yes. The 'EB' or Engineering Body number plate goes on top and is painted body color, the body/chassis number plate is just below it and is brass finished, both are held in place by slotted round head sheet metal screws. REF: TRA Judging Standards & Restoration Guideline pg.UH-6 All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 4:41 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Body number plates TR 2/3 Hello List: Just wondering about the body number plates found on the side curtain cars. They are brass or brass plate. Are they supposed to be body colour or brass finish? Have seen them both ways. Not sure what is "correct". Some of the easy finishing touches on my long project. Thanks! Angelo Graham _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Aug 24 18:46:32 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 17:46:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: <611395.59495.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I've never had an overdrive such as the A-type in a car before (tr-6). I love it but am curious about it's use. It works very well within a gear range. But is there a way to quickly shift from 2nd overdrive into 3rd regular (underdrive)? Then on through the gears giving a person 7 gears? LOL or not.......i've been afraid to experiment and don't really need it but just curious. gary n. From pethier at comcast.net Tue Aug 24 18:54:55 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 00:54:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle? In-Reply-To: <511FB0EF-DFC6-4005-940B-1151C703E65E@ipns.com> Message-ID: <1539811258.104851.1282697695006.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I don't get it. B I ran a Miata for four years on a lawn-tractor battery. B I used the same battery ordinary battery for 8 years on my TR4. B What do you do to those things? I went to an Odyssey sealed battery on the Seven. B Very satisfied with that. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Darrell Walker" > To: "TR owners List" > Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 6:28:07 PM > Subject: [TR] Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle? > > Unfortunately, I don't get to drive my TR very often these days. B Even > though > I have a "battery tender", I only seem to get a two or three years > from a > battery, which ends up being about every other time I can take it > out! > > Anyway, would an Optima perform better for me? B Even if it didn't last > the 3-4 > times longer that it would need to pay off (vs. buying a cheap battery > every > two years or so), if I could expect it to last twice as long, I might > be > interested for the convenience of not having to get a new battery > every time I > drive! > > -- > Darrell Walker > 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L > Vancouver, WA, USA > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation B $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From Loumetelko at aol.com Tue Aug 24 19:10:10 2010 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 21:10:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Body number plates TR 2/3 Message-ID: <60adf.c04a705.39a5c772@aol.com> Hello List: Just wondering about the body number plates found on the side curtain cars. They are brass or brass plate. Are they supposed to be body colour or brass finish? Angelo: TRA's Concours guide says the top "EB" plate is body color while the bottom six or seven digit plate is highly polished brass. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana TRA in Fort Wayne, Indiana in 2011 From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Aug 24 19:24:55 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 20:24:55 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle? Message-ID: <1378330823.1951324.1282699495769.JavaMail.root@vms170003.mailsrvcs.net> Darrell, I made the switch over to the Optima on my 1972 Triumph TR6. I ended up with the proper size battery, make sure you shop around, and only paid $118.96 from Street Side Automotive 002 Group 34 red top battery in 8/2008 delivered. I am sure we can get into a big discussion about good verses bad brands. But for me, $119 for an Optima, $45 for some battery from Walmart, it was a no brainer. Battery is connected all summer, I have a cutoff switch in the winter, and have never had an issue. Had a friend of my wife's son in the car, turned on the driving lights for 30 hours, battery dead, jumped it, drove for 15 miles, never had a problem after that. I am a big fan. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Aug 24, 2010, Darrell Walker wrote: Unfortunately, I don't get to drive my TR very often these days. Even though I have a "battery tender", I only seem to get a two or three years from a battery, which ends up being about every other time I can take it out! Anyway, would an Optima perform better for me? Even if it didn't last the 3-4 times longer that it would need to pay off (vs. buying a cheap battery every two years or so), if I could expect it to last twice as long, I might be interested for the convenience of not having to get a new battery every time I drive! -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Aug 24 19:34:47 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 21:34:47 EDT Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: YUP! Switch the overdrive off as you go through neutral to the next higher gear. No problem. Also, as it sounds like you may not be that familiar with overdrive, here is a tip to make driving smoother: Try to apply at least light throttle when engaging, or disengaging overdrive. Not a problem when accelerating up through the gears, but when you downshift, just apply a little throttle for a second as you switch the overdrive off; the downshift will be much smoother. Tim From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Aug 24 19:43:02 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 20:43:02 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle? Message-ID: <1507186.338994.1282700582951.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Aug 24 20:28:34 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 02:28:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <611395.59495.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <611395.59495.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C3E115@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> Gary, you can certainly do that although I would be careful with giving it too much welly in 2nd OD as that can really stress the system ( I have done it many times though in my youth.. 10mph to 60+ in 2nd..). A useful addition to any TR with overdrive is an overdrive logic controller, an inexpensive bit of electronics that will take you out of OD as you pass through any gear. That will prevent you from going from say 3rd OD into 4th OD which will be the default if you are in OD 3rd and change up into 4th without manually switching out of overdrive and ruin your traffic light grand prix ambitions. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 8:47 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] use of overdrive I've never had an overdrive such as the A-type in a car before (tr-6). I love it but am curious about it's use. It works very well within a gear range. But is there a way to quickly shift from 2nd overdrive into 3rd regular (underdrive)? Then on through the gears giving a person 7 gears? LOL or not.......i've been afraid to experiment and don't really need it but just curious. gary n. From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Tue Aug 24 20:50:49 2010 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 19:50:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C748509.6060200@comcast.net> Or just touch the clutch as you hit the switch - particularly useful if you want to maintain a constant speed but with the OD engaged. Bob On 8/24/2010 6:34 PM, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: > YUP! Switch the overdrive off as you go through neutral to the next higher > gear. No problem. > > Also, as it sounds like you may not be that familiar with overdrive, here > is a tip to make driving smoother: Try to apply at least light throttle when > engaging, or disengaging overdrive. Not a problem when accelerating up > through the gears, but when you downshift, just apply a little throttle for a > second as you switch the overdrive off; the downshift will be much > smoother. > > Tim From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Aug 24 20:54:34 2010 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (Acekraut11) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 22:54:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle? In-Reply-To: <1378330823.1951324.1282699495769.JavaMail.root@vms170003.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1378330823.1951324.1282699495769.JavaMail.root@vms170003.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <8CD1217FBB054EB-2054-5C95@webmail-d065.sysops.aol.com> Darrell, A cheap solution is to remove the battery from your daily driver and stick it in your Triumph for the day then switch back. Pretty cheap solution if you only drive the car that infrequently. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net To: darrellw at ipns.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Aug 24, 2010 9:24 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle? Darrell, I made the switch over to the Optima on my 1972 Triumph TR6. I ended up with the proper size battery, make sure you shop around, and only paid $118.96 from Street Side Automotive 002 Group 34 red top battery in 8/2008 delivered. I am sure we can get into a big discussion about good verses bad brands. But for me, $119 for an Optima, $45 for some battery from Walmart, it was a no brainer. Battery is connected all summer, I have a cutoff switch in the winter, and have never had an issue. Had a friend of my wife's son in the car, turned on the driving lights for 30 hours, battery dead, jumped it, drove for 15 miles, never had a problem after that. I am a big fan. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Aug 24, 2010, Darrell Walker wrote: Unfortunately, I don't get to drive my TR very often these days. Even though I have a "battery tender", I only seem to get a two or three years from a battery, which ends up being about every other time I can take it out! Anyway, would an Optima perform better for me? Even if it didn't last the 3-4 times longer that it would need to pay off (vs. buying a cheap battery every two years or so), if I could expect it to last twice as long, I might be interested for the convenience of not having to get a new battery every time I drive! -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/acekraut11 at aol.com From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Aug 24 21:18:48 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 21:18:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <611395.59495.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <611395.59495.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, Not sure what quick is in your view but I flick the overdrive switch off while the clutch is in to shift from 2nd to 3rd hence I've gone from 2nd OD to 3rd non-OD. Sometimes you have to develop a feel for the shift into 3rd as the OD tends to make the syncros not work perfectly. I've had an A-type OD in my TR6 for 13 years and my method is to NOT let up on the gas or push the clutch in when going up through the gears. When downshifting I stay on the gas a little but not full throttle if I'm slowing down to get off an exit but sometimes I'll get on the throttle if my intent is to accelerate quickly. In fact I love the kick in the pants the OD gives you when you kick it in under full power. My opinion is that they were designed to work that way...I know lots of others take a different approach with babying their ODs and I'll probably hear about it...and I've never had a problem with my OD other than the wires getting kicked and coming unplugged in the passenger footwell. In fact I get more concerned about the jolt the OD takes when engaged and not under load than when under load. It sounds and feels to me like a much more damaging and less smooth process when its not under load. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Aug 24, 2010, at 6:46 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I've never had an overdrive such as the A-type in a car before > (tr-6). I love > it but am curious about it's use. It works very well within a gear > range. But > is there a way to quickly shift from 2nd overdrive into 3rd regular > (underdrive)? Then on through the gears giving a person 7 gears? > LOL or > not.......i've been afraid to experiment and don't really need it > but just > curious. > > gary n. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 24 22:23:06 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 21:23:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <611395.59495.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <611395.59495.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01b501cb440d$381a6a70$0301a8c0@randall> > But > is there a way to quickly shift from 2nd overdrive into 3rd regular > (underdrive)? Just to echo what others have said; just flip the switch as you shift and go on. The OD actually drops out for an instant during the shift anyway, so you're not adding any wear & tear. > Then on through the gears giving a person 7 > gears? LOL Sure, but I think you'll find that 3rd OD is so close to 4th direct that it's not worth the effort as an extra gear. Randall From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Aug 24 23:09:32 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 00:09:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle? In-Reply-To: <511FB0EF-DFC6-4005-940B-1151C703E65E@ipns.com> References: <511FB0EF-DFC6-4005-940B-1151C703E65E@ipns.com> Message-ID: <20100825050845.29AC2187645@autox.team.net> I had an Optima red top in my TR-4 race car when I bought it in 2002. Not sure how long it had been there, but it's very safe to assume it wasn't new. I replaced it in 2009, "just because". This car gets driven 5 or 6 times a year and the battery sits on a battery tender otherwise. I found that I had been running for a year or two with my alternator wired incorrectly, so it was not charging properly at the track and I made it through each weekend without any need for charging. It was by pure accident that I discovered that I had miswired the alternator to turn it into a "single wire" setup. Count me a happy customer. Tony Drews At 06:28 PM 8/24/2010, Darrell Walker wrote: >Unfortunately, I don't get to drive my TR very often these days. Even though >I have a "battery tender", I only seem to get a two or three years from a >battery, which ends up being about every other time I can take it out! > >Anyway, would an Optima perform better for me? Even if it didn't last the 3-4 >times longer that it would need to pay off (vs. buying a cheap battery every >two years or so), if I could expect it to last twice as long, I might be >interested for the convenience of not having to get a new battery every time I >drive! > >-- >Darrell Walker >66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L >Vancouver, WA, USA From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Wed Aug 25 04:23:15 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 03:23:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <01b501cb440d$381a6a70$0301a8c0@randall> References: <611395.59495.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <01b501cb440d$381a6a70$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <464288.87285.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Can't say I entirely agree with the concept of disengaging overdrive on 'up' changes. The key selling feature of the Laycock unit was the driver could do exactly that - i.e. up change from overdrive second to overdrive third to overdrive fourth being entirely feasible and in no way damaging to the unit. In any case, if you evaluate the overall gearing between an overdrive gear and its next one up on the tree in direct - overdrive second to direct third, the gearing is hardly different. So what is to be gained apart from showing off that you've got seven ratios? As for engagement and dis-engagement, the 'thump' tends to vary with individual overdrive units. Some engage 'violently', some do it in a more 'slurred' fashion. That said, I know that Laycock also designed the unit for engagement under full power, so a foot-to-the-floor change shouldn't cause overdrive damage. Historically on my own cars, my overdrive technique varied according to the car being used. On some I slightly depressed the clutch for a smoother engagement, on others I let it change without clutch intervention. For dis-engagement, I usually depressed the clutch a little - and this was mainly in consideration of the sudden over-run load being imposed on driveline splines and the Hardy Spicer yokes in accelerating engine rpm upwards by 800 odd rpm in a nanosecond. I also don't like jerks and jolts which accrue using this method. Just my preferences because there isn't a 'right' or 'wrong' way of using the Laycock set-up. It's primary design purpose - not known by many, was not to use the overdrive as a maximum power tool. With the long stroke / high torque engines of the fifties and sixties, overdrive operation was to effect an up-change at maximum engine torque level (around 2500-3250 rpm) rather than at maximum engine power (5000 rpm upwards). If overdrive users try this method, I'm sure they'll gain even more enjoyment from the Laycock product. Jonmac From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Aug 25 05:08:04 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 07:08:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <464288.87285.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <01b501cb440d$381a6a70$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4C74C154.13719.1BD963F6@localhost> On 25 Aug 2010 at 3:23, John Macartney wrote: > this was mainly in consideration of the sudden > over-run load being imposed on driveline splines > and the Hardy Spicer yokes in accelerating engine > rpm upwards by 800 odd rpm in a nanosecond. Hardy Spicer yokes. Hardy Spicer? Oh yeah, old man Spicer's boy. I have to ask what little Hardy invented that got his name attached. > I also don't like jerks Nor do I. I see far too many of them every day on the way to and from work. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Aug 25 05:27:24 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 07:27:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle? In-Reply-To: <511FB0EF-DFC6-4005-940B-1151C703E65E@ipns.com> References: <511FB0EF-DFC6-4005-940B-1151C703E65E@ipns.com> Message-ID: <201008250727.24761.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Darrell, I have Exide Orbitals in my 3 and 4 for 5 years and they show no signs of losing their charge. They both stay in the cars for the season (April - October) and then they are removed and stored in the cellar on a tender. The 4 battery cost 107$ 5 years ago and the 3 about 135 just a year later. So the price today might be higher, not sure. But When I was trying to decide what battery to get, this one had very high marks. If I ever finish my 72 6 project, the 6 will also get a Orbital. I have heard of problems with Optima on this list and in other forums. Regardless of what battery you get, get a maintenance free battery. Bob From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed Aug 25 06:14:25 2010 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian Jones) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 07:14:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] GL5 in a diff Message-ID: <255CDC47B223ED4FA3BAD7AA997A53C7889E66FC3F@019D-NAMSG-01.019D.MGD.MSFT.NET> Thanks Randall - there is a lot of contradictory guff online on oil topics generally and GL4/5 in particular, where threads seem to get rather heated, rather quickly. I'll look for some MT1-standard oil. One thread I found stated that synthetics labeled for GL4 or 5 applications do not have the sulphur additives that you mentioned, I guess they will be rated MT1. Like this one: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svg.aspx "Recommended for use in differentials, manual transmissions and other gear applications requiring any of the following specifications: API GL-5, MT-1, MIL-PRF-2105E, Dana SHAES 234 (Formerly Eaton PS-037), Mack GO-J, or the differential (hypoid) gear oil specifications from all domestic and foreign manufacturers such as GM, Ford and Daimler Chrysler. Can also be used in axles where an API GL-4 lubricant is recommended." Brian From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Aug 25 08:59:01 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 10:59:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: In a message dated 8/25/2010 6:44:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk writes: As for engagement and dis-engagement, the 'thump' tends to vary with individual overdrive units. Some engage 'violently', some do it in a more 'slurred' fashion John, The early TR4 A-Type OD gearbox's in my 62 TR3B & 62 TR4 are what we call "Bangers" They like launch you forward when engaged at full throttle. I much prefer those as compared to the later A - Type which you refer to as "Slurred". That is a very good description. My later 68 TR250 and 71TR6 A-Types OD's are "Slurrers". The 68/70 GT6+, 70 Spitfire MK3 & 76 Spitfire 1500 OD's are "Slurrers" as well. On the 70 MK3 I tried to use OD out of 1st gear whilst autoxing so I wouldn't need to shift but the pause during the "slurring" seemed like it took up too much time. Whilst touring the great thing for me with the OD's is to use them in 3rd gear on gray roads with various elevations where the speed limit is 45 to 50 MPH. I like to go back and forth depending on the load on the engine using non OD to climb the hills w/o having to shift. I don't do anything but flip the switch going up or down. Cheers, Darrell From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 25 10:00:32 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 09:00:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00e201cb446e$a62decb0$0301a8c0@randall> > My later 68 TR250 and 71TR6 > A-Types OD's are "Slurrers". That was a deliberate modification by the factory, which I believe was to lessen the driveline shock on IRS cars. Considering how many TR6 have broken where the diff mounts to the frame, it seems like a valid reason. BTW, using a lighter flywheel also reduces the 'thump' noticeably. Still not what I'd call 'slurred', but the difference between a slap and a kick in the pants. Randall From trmarty at hotmail.com Wed Aug 25 10:48:42 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 12:48:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <611395.59495.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <611395.59495.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I remember watching J.K. Jackson going down the drag strip some years ago at one of the TRF Summer Parties. It was amazing, I think he used all 7 gears but it seemed more like 10 or 15 at the time. Marty > Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 17:46:32 -0700 > From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] use of overdrive > > I've never had an overdrive such as the A-type in a car before (tr-6). I love > it but am curious about it's use. It works very well within a gear range. But > is there a way to quickly shift from 2nd overdrive into 3rd regular > (underdrive)? Then on through the gears giving a person 7 gears? LOL or > not.......i've been afraid to experiment and don't really need it but just > curious. > > gary n. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trmarty at hotmail.com From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Aug 25 11:03:54 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 12:03:54 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: <25052004.370238.1282755834078.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Aug 25 11:09:37 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 11:09:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00DFA89D-9870-4DD4-9F25-56BD5C890D99@comcast.net> I do that a lot in moderately moving traffic from 2nd to OD and back as needed. Cuts down on clutching. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Aug 25, 2010, at 8:59 AM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > I like to go back and forth depending on the load on the engine > using non OD to climb the hills w/o having to shift. From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Aug 25 11:17:44 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 11:17:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <00e201cb446e$a62decb0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <00e201cb446e$a62decb0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <037C3CD6-8A7C-4199-948F-07BE92036697@comcast.net> That makes sense. My diff mounts were broken before the OD but I fixed them shortly after I put the OD in. The OD probably made the broken mounts clunk even worse and it finally got my attention. My OD was scavenged from a 1971 rust bucket TR6 but it is a banger not a slurrer so maybe it was still in the parts bin from the early ODs when the rust bucket was built. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Aug 25, 2010, at 10:00 AM, Randall wrote: > Considering how many TR6 have > broken where the diff mounts to the frame, it seems like a valid > reason. From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Aug 25 11:17:54 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 13:17:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: <102f95.650d6429.39a6aa42@aol.com> In a message dated 8/25/2010 12:27:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: That was a deliberate modification by the factory, which I believe was to lessen the driveline shock on IRS cars. Considering how many TR6 have broken where the diff mounts to the frame, it seems like a valid reason. That's interesting Randall, Yes both my IRS cars like to shake the rear a bit if I disengage the OD during rapid deceleration. In some cases severe enough that I get a nasty look and "What the Heck is That!" comment from Beverly. Someone said keep on the throttle a little and I agree that is when you want to do it. Darrell From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Aug 25 11:31:59 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 13:31:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <00DFA89D-9870-4DD4-9F25-56BD5C890D99@comcast.net> References: <00DFA89D-9870-4DD4-9F25-56BD5C890D99@comcast.net> Message-ID: Freds emails come across as empty to me - everyones elses seems fine. Anyone else seeing that? I love my overdrive! On Wed, Aug 25, 2010 at 1:09 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > I do that a lot in moderately moving traffic from 2nd to OD and back as > needed. Cuts down on clutching. > > > Bud Rolofson > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) > 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) > 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) > Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > On Aug 25, 2010, at 8:59 AM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > > I like to go back and forth depending on the load on the engine >> using non OD to climb the hills w/o having to shift. >> > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Wed Aug 25 11:32:19 2010 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 19:32:19 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Breather Pipe, thanks to all References: <000e01cb4257$d8951cf0$89bf56d0$@net> Message-ID: <8F7E259B98D5462B813DD65B2B4C1B9B@Study> I recently fitted a TR3 Breather pipe to my TR4A having been advised by quite a few people that that would help cure the oil leak from my rear crank bearing. It increased with speed so that at 80mph in 50 miles or so it disgorged perhaps a pint and a half onto the underside of the chassis, (particularly on the right side) and onto the rear bumper and boot lid bottom. The theory being that crankcase overpressure due to blowback past the rings was forcing oil out of the scroll seal at the back, and the TR4A venting system was grossly inadequate particularly for an engine with 70k miles or more. Have now had the opportunity to test the new breather mod and now report a very dramatic improvement at 80+mph. Have'nt measured figures yet but after 100 miles at motorway speed the sump has needed no oil adding and the back of the car has stayed completely clean. So thank you all who chimed in with their experiences and advice, you know who you are. Hope this may be useful to someone. This list does what the UK BBC was originally chartered to do, viz: Inform, Entertain and Educate. I look forward to many more years of I E and E with it! David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 11570 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Wed Aug 25 11:48:44 2010 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 19:48:44 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Breather Pipe References: <000e01cb4257$d8951cf0$89bf56d0$@net> Message-ID: I recently spent many hours trying to get that core plug out. Managed to make a hole in it with a finely tapered centre punch but the plug was determined to stay where it was after 42 years. It seemed to be thicker and have a deeper collar than an ordinary core plug. and there just was'nt enough room in the engine bay to get a decent purchase with anything in my armoury. So gave up before I did any damage and took it to a local garage. They suceeded but said it was very difficult and stubborn. They enlarged my hole and made a squiggly sort of lever from an old screwdriver and utilised an air hammer I think. HT might H someone, David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 11570 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 25 11:53:57 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 13:53:57 EDT Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: In a message dated 8/24/2010 8:25:52 PM Central Daylight Time, nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: > I've never had an overdrive such as the A-type in a car before (tr-6). I > love > it but am curious about it's use. It works very well within a gear range. > But > is there a way to quickly shift from 2nd overdrive into 3rd regular > (underdrive)? Then on through the gears giving a person 7 gears? LOL or > not.......i've been afraid to experiment and don't really need it but just > > curious. > As has been mentioned you could just switch to OD off whilst shifting. I have found that if the sequence is just right you can trick out the synchros and get gear clash. To avoid this I would recommend that you switch other OD off just as you depress the clutch and then pause half a second before selecting the next gear. But as also has been mentioned, skip the whole thing since the difference is so negligible. I prefer the J-type just for the reason of drive line shock. Since the J-type has no accumulator it will engage the OD more slowly. When I drive the A-type I depress the clutch partially to minimize the driveline shock. Some shift harder than others. I suspect it may have to do with the adjustment of the valve. If the solenoid only opens the valve slightly the engagement will occur more slowly than if the valve is opened more widely. Since the book procedure usually doesn't work most folks (myself included) adjust the solenoid clamp to open the valve quite wide. Making minor adjustments (a big PITA, BTW) may soften up the OD engagement. Or you could do what they did in the Austin Healey application. The Healey 3000 has a very big motor with a very heavy flywheel. The OD's on these cars were fitted with a sleeve and smaller piston and spring in the accumulator reducing the capacity of the accumulator. This means the pressure drop upon engagement is much more pronounced meaning that there is less pressure applied at the point of clutch engagement resulting in a softer shift (less jerk). I have fitted these parts to my TR3 OD and when I get it on the road I will report on the success (or lack thereof) of this attempt. Dave From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Aug 25 12:03:04 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 14:03:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: <88ef8.790de228.39a6b4d8@aol.com> In a message dated 8/25/2010 1:44:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, levilevi at comcast.net writes: My OD was scavenged from a 1971 rust bucket TR6 but it is a banger not a slurrer so maybe it was still in the parts bin from the early ODs when the rust bucket was built. Hey Bud, Not one of the OD gearboxes I mentioned are original to my Triumphs. I converted all of them from regular 4 gear boxes. So my cars would not reflect when the A-Type Bangers were replaced by the Slurrers. Which brings me to ask a question: Why did any fool buy a new Triumph w/o OD? They were like an $85.00 option. What a shame they were not all built with OD. Darrell From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 25 12:23:25 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 11:23:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <037C3CD6-8A7C-4199-948F-07BE92036697@comcast.net> References: <00e201cb446e$a62decb0$0301a8c0@randall> <037C3CD6-8A7C-4199-948F-07BE92036697@comcast.net> Message-ID: <02e101cb4482$a1f1b280$e5d51780$@rr.com> > My OD > was scavenged from a 1971 rust bucket TR6 but it is a banger not a > slurrer so maybe it was still in the parts bin from the early ODs when > the rust bucket was built. More likely, IMO, it had been replaced or converted prior to your scavenging it. The change was implemented in 1965 for the TR4A IRS, so not likely there were too many leftovers in the parts bin by 1971. The conversion back to a "banger" is discussed in Healey circles as a "performance upgrade"; and many of the earlier "slurrer" units can easily be converted back to "bangers". Converting the other way is sometimes done as well, in cases where the bore of the accumulator is damaged. Probably a good idea as well, in cases where an earlier A-type is being installed in a car with IRS. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 25 12:27:20 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 11:27:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: References: <00DFA89D-9870-4DD4-9F25-56BD5C890D99@comcast.net> Message-ID: <02e201cb4483$282fb1d0$788f1570$@rr.com> > Freds emails come across as empty to me - everyones elses seems fine. > Anyone else seeing that? Me too, with the caveat that I've seen some empty messages from other people (tho perhaps that was on a different Team.Net list). Has anyone actually heard from Fred? -- Randall From spitlist at cox.net Wed Aug 25 12:43:43 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 11:43:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <88ef8.790de228.39a6b4d8@aol.com> Message-ID: <20100825184249.JZUE23088.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> In terms of today's money, That $85.00 could be multiplied by 10. So $850 was substantial. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 11:03 AM To: levilevi at comcast.net; tr3driver at ca.rr.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] use of overdrive In a message dated 8/25/2010 1:44:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, levilevi at comcast.net writes: My OD was scavenged from a 1971 rust bucket TR6 but it is a banger not a slurrer so maybe it was still in the parts bin from the early ODs when the rust bucket was built. Hey Bud, Not one of the OD gearboxes I mentioned are original to my Triumphs. I converted all of them from regular 4 gear boxes. So my cars would not reflect when the A-Type Bangers were replaced by the Slurrers. Which brings me to ask a question: Why did any fool buy a new Triumph w/o OD? They were like an $85.00 option. What a shame they were not all built with OD. Darrell _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Aug 25 12:58:57 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 11:58:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: References: <00DFA89D-9870-4DD4-9F25-56BD5C890D99@comcast.net> Message-ID: On 8/25/10, Chris Simo wrote: > Freds emails come across as empty to me - everyones elses seems fine. > Anyone else seeing that? Me too. Don't know why. Looks like he may have recently changed his email address so maybe something got set up wrong. Geo From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Aug 25 13:13:25 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 19:13:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <88ef8.790de228.39a6b4d8@aol.com> References: <88ef8.790de228.39a6b4d8@aol.com> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C3EA78@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> Very few TR6's came to the US with Overdrive which is borderline criminal as far as I am concerned but I have seen this decision rationalized as reducing the cost of the base model and also because at the time there was a 55mph speed limit so why would anyone need an overdrive... In contrast you would have to work pretty hard to find a PI car that didn't have overdrive from the factory. Stan (74 TR6 with retrofitted J-Type, thank you John Esposito) -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 2:03 PM To: levilevi at comcast.net; tr3driver at ca.rr.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] use of overdrive ... Which brings me to ask a question: Why did any fool buy a new Triumph w/o OD? They were like an $85.00 option. What a shame they were not all built with OD. From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Aug 25 13:23:07 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 15:23:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: <10aca6.36390b6f.39a6c79b@aol.com> In a message dated 8/25/2010 2:43:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: In terms of today's money, That $85.00 could be multiplied by 10. So $850 was substantial. Joe Good point Joe, I had forgotten that my Snickers bar was only a nickel back then. What is really a shame is nowadays a rebuilt Stanpart gearbox with an A Type Laycock de Normanville Overdrive unit is $2000 and up. I bought the one in my TR3 box used at a swap meet in 1995 for $400. The TR4 box was around $600 also used from Team Triumph in the late 90's. The Six box was bought from the 6-PACK newsletter, had to be rebuilt twice before it was right, and cost well over $2000. I am in the market for one last A-type for my 63 TR4 restoration. I would prefer a Banger but I will take what I can get. Anyone have any spares? Darrell I have received one blank and one with comments from Fred. From spitlist at cox.net Wed Aug 25 13:27:43 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 12:27:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <10aca6.36390b6f.39a6c79b@aol.com> Message-ID: <20100825192650.LPNS16314.fed1rmmtao105.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> As a point of comparison, I bought a new Corvette in 1975 for $8500. And the camber compensators I sell for Spitfires for $195.00 were priced at $25.00 back in the day. Joe _____ From: TR250Driver at aol.com [mailto:TR250Driver at aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 12:23 PM To: spitlist at cox.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] use of overdrive In a message dated 8/25/2010 2:43:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: In terms of today's money, That $85.00 could be multiplied by 10. So $850 was substantial. Joe Good point Joe, I had forgotten that my Snickers bar was only a nickel back then. What is really a shame is nowadays a rebuilt Stanpart gearbox with an A Type Laycock de Normanville Overdrive unit is $2000 and up. I bought the one in my TR3 box used at a swap meet in 1995 for $400. The TR4 box was around $600 also used from Team Triumph in the late 90's. The Six box was bought from the 6-PACK newsletter, had to be rebuilt twice before it was right, and cost well over $2000. I am in the market for one last A-type for my 63 TR4 restoration. I would prefer a Banger but I will take what I can get. Anyone have any spares? Darrell I have received one blank and one with comments from Fred. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 25 14:32:29 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 13:32:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <030101cb4494$a426dcd0$ec749670$@rr.com> > But as also has been mentioned, skip the whole thing since the > difference is so negligible. I know there are different gear sets and OD ratios, so perhaps this would not apply in all cases. But for my A-type & early TR6 gear set, 2nd OD is almost a perfect split between 2nd direct and 3rd direct. Since the spread between 2nd & 3rd is kind of wide, going through 2nd OD and 3rd direct does shorten 0-60 time noticeably, especially if your engine has been modified. > The OD's on these > cars were fitted with a sleeve and smaller piston and spring in the > accumulator reducing the capacity of the accumulator. Which is exactly the modification I was referring to. The IRS Triumphs had the same sleeve, piston, etc. as the Healeys did. > I prefer the J-type just for the reason of drive line shock Tastes vary, of course. Personally, I much prefer the A-type in a sports car. The J-type shifts horribly slow, IMO, making it useful only as a 5th gear for cruising. And any time I want to minimize driveline shock (which is actually most of the time), I just use the clutch when shifting into OD. Still, nothing else quite matches the feeling I get when romping down the road, and the engine just barely starts to lose power in 2nd gear, so flip the switch and suddenly the front suspension pops up and its right back on top of the power curve. -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Aug 25 15:18:07 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 21:18:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Radiator shroud: fabrication In-Reply-To: <030101cb4494$a426dcd0$ec749670$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1210552440.264621.1282771087153.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I decide to use the TRF cardboard radiator shroud as a template, although I did paint and re-paint it with Rustoleum this time instead of rubberized undercoating. The material I used was some vinyl I had hanging around for a shower stall. It bends, is waterproof, and maybe even crackproof. Another thing occurred to me as I installed it. The path of rain through the grill is direct to the distributor and coil when you don't have a shroud. I had been stalling in torrential downpours. I'm beginning to wondeer whether this might help.... Thanks for all your help. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From mdporter at dfn.com Wed Aug 25 15:43:56 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 15:43:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: References: <00DFA89D-9870-4DD4-9F25-56BD5C890D99@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C758E9C.3010602@dfn.com> On 8/25/2010 12:58 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > On 8/25/10, Chris Simo wrote: >> Freds emails come across as empty to me - everyones elses seems fine. >> Anyone else seeing that? > Me too. Don't know why. Looks like he may have recently changed his > email address so maybe something got set up wrong. > Fred probably does not have plain text selected for list mail. The mailman will often dump html if it's loaded up with bells and whistles, even though the header comes through intact. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Aug 25 16:24:50 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 17:24:50 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: <27709008.390606.1282775090498.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 25 16:45:45 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 18:45:45 EDT Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: <118f08.eaa7d00.39a6f719@cs.com> In a message dated 8/25/2010 5:42:58 PM Central Daylight Time, frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes: > > > Translation: "How do I turn on Plain Text?" From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Aug 25 16:46:46 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 17:46:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: <31183765.391793.1282776406517.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 25 16:57:21 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 16:57:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <4C758E9C.3010602@dfn.com> References: <00DFA89D-9870-4DD4-9F25-56BD5C890D99@comcast.net> <4C758E9C.3010602@dfn.com> Message-ID: <82FD6ACB-22F4-46CC-8F0B-5EF0AF73A2EE@flash.net> Same here, no text in the email. Mobile Bill On Aug 25, 2010, at 3:43 PM, Michael Porter wrote: > On 8/25/2010 12:58 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: >> On 8/25/10, Chris Simo wrote: >>> Freds emails come across as empty to me - everyones elses seems fine. >>> Anyone else seeing that? >> Me too. Don't know why. Looks like he may have recently changed his >> email address so maybe something got set up wrong. >> > > > Fred probably does not have plain text selected for list mail. The mailman will often dump html if it's loaded up with bells and whistles, even though the header comes through intact. > > > Cheers. > > -- > > > Michael Porter > Roswell, NM > > > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Aug 25 17:01:42 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 18:01:42 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: <8765085.392584.1282777302104.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> From trglory at verizon.net Wed Aug 25 18:12:12 2010 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 20:12:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <8765085.392584.1282777302104.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> References: <8765085.392584.1282777302104.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> Message-ID: <012301cb44b3$55668d10$0033a730$@net> Fred; Don't know what email client you are using, but if you look in "properties", you should find choices for text format. Your choices are probably plain text, rich text and HTML. Set it to default to plain text and you messages should be published. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of frede.thomas2 Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:02 PM To: spitlist at cox.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; tr3driver at ca.rr.com; TR250Driver at aol.com Subject: Re: [TR] use of overdrive _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3091 - Release Date: 08/25/10 02:34:00 From januaryw at gmail.com Wed Aug 25 18:28:09 2010 From: januaryw at gmail.com (January Williams) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 17:28:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] overdrive usage Message-ID: Quoting Randall: . . . The change was implemented in 1965 for the TR4A IRS . . . The conversion back to a "banger" is discussed in Healey circles as a "performance upgrade"; and many of the earlier "slurrer" units can easily be converted back to "bangers". Converting the other way is sometimes done as well, in cases where the bore of the accumulator is damaged. Probably a good idea as well, in cases where an earlier A-type is being installed in a car with IRS. =========== My IRS car came with an OD in a box, probably not the original, as it was a 22/61712 which would be from an early TR4. So when I had it rebuilt, I got the smaller accumulator piston / spring from Moss which effectively converted it to a 22/61753 appropriate to the IRS. I kept the original piston and spring so the unit could be returned to original. (cf "performance upgrade") The smaller accumulator caused the operating pressure to drop quickly and then recover, to "soften the engagement" (quoting from Nelson Riedel's excellent series of articles) avoiding possible damage to the (IRS) joints. As to operating, I always tap the clutch and slack the throttle when engaging the OD, but not when switching it off . . . but I'm usually meandering, not power commuting, I want it to last. After 10 years it took longer and longer to engage and then quit a couple of weeks ago, so I had to pull out the seats and the tunnel and reset the operating lever with the 3/16 drill bit routine; works great again. I did spill blood again though, scratched knuckle, seems like every time, is it Vucan that's the god of mechanics? Cheers January Williams 66 TR4A CTC74217 LO Salem, Oregon From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Aug 25 18:33:55 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 20:33:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <20100825192650.LPNS16314.fed1rmmtao105.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> Message-ID: <8CD12CD7FB9CC0E-2018-5362@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> I'd just bought a 1960 TR3A in 1972. I priced new tires (as it really needed two)...and decided that I'd pass on the $200 it would cost for a set of Michelin X radials, mounted and balanced. After all, I'd only paid $125 for the car. I ended up buying two Dunlop Gold Seal 6.85 x 15 (Volvo size!) to match the two good rear tires. I also remember when a Koni shock was maybe $25-30? I think that's what I paid for the set I had put on my '70 GT6+ circa 1976. Those were the days, my friend.... (Ok, it was all a lot of money to me then!) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Joe Curry To: TR250Driver at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Aug 25, 2010 3:27 pm Subject: Re: [TR] use of overdrive As a point of comparison, I bought a new Corvette in 1975 for $8500. And the camber compensators I sell for Spitfires for $195.00 were priced at $25.00 back in the day. From jhassall at blacksburg.net Wed Aug 25 18:48:32 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 20:48:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C3E115@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <611395.59495.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C3E115@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <4C75B9E0.3010702@blacksburg.net> On 8/24/2010 10:28 PM, Foster, Stan (HP IT) wrote: > Gary, you can certainly do that although I would be careful with giving it too > much welly in 2nd OD as that can really stress the system ( I have done it > many times though in my youth.. 10mph to 60+ in 2nd..). A useful addition to > any TR with overdrive is an overdrive logic controller, an inexpensive bit of > electronics that will take you out of OD as you pass through any gear. There is such a nifty device: http://od_cntl.webring.com It does everything you asked for, as well as preventing you from taking off from a stop in OD. It's a plug 'n play installation (see the installation instructions/pix and pix of customer installations). Pretty cool. jim > That > will prevent you from going from say 3rd OD into 4th OD which will be the > default if you are in OD 3rd and change up into 4th without manually switching > out of overdrive and ruin your traffic light grand prix ambitions. > > Stan > > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Aug 25 19:33:07 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 18:33:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] overdrive thanks Message-ID: <690968.5145.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> thanks for all the information on overdrives! I'm so glad my ovedrive is working. I lent the car out (several years ago) and it got delivered back to me parked up nose close to the garage door. I got in and found the overdrive engaged and everything locked up tight. I did not wanna back up with od engaged but putting the car in nuetral did nothing.......nada. would not budge. Nothing i tried to get the car moved back worked. I grit my teeth and backed up several feet and could feel things "binding" horribly. The od did keep working fine. Now if anyone else drives the car i unplug the od.LOL anyway.........the question about "going up through the gears .........7 ratios...........was mainly for s---- and giggles. I'll try it but won't use it that way or do that often. I also love od for those situations where your gonna stay in the same gear but want the two ratios in order to handle traffic or hills. I never used the clutch for engaging/disengaging od but will start doing that now that I've learned others do that. thanks again! gary n. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Aug 25 19:52:58 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 18:52:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <20100825184249.JZUE23088.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> References: <88ef8.790de228.39a6b4d8@aol.com> <20100825184249.JZUE23088.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> Message-ID: On 8/25/10, Joe Curry wrote: > In terms of today's money, That $85.00 could be multiplied by 10. So $850 > was substantial. Not to mention that my allowance in 1959 was 25 cents a week -- would have took more saving than I was capable of. Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Aug 25 19:55:28 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 18:55:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] overdrive usage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 8/25/10, January Williams wrote: > ... I did spill blood again though, scratched knuckle, seems like every time... I've told my wife that if I ever go missing and the police need a sample of my DNA -- any item from the top 3 drawers of the tool chest should be able to provide what they need. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 25 20:10:52 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 19:10:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] use of overdrive In-Reply-To: <8CD12CD7FB9CC0E-2018-5362@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100825192650.LPNS16314.fed1rmmtao105.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> <8CD12CD7FB9CC0E-2018-5362@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <01ae01cb44c3$e95f4ec0$0301a8c0@randall> > I ended up buying two Dunlop Gold Seal > 6.85 x 15 > (Volvo size!) to match the two good rear tires. By then, I think you should have been able to find some radial "takeoffs" from a VW Beetle at a reasonable price. ISTR paying about $20 each (mounted and balanced!) in 1975 or so. Tires were nearly new, but the Bug owner had wanted wider ones than the factory supplied. The shop that sold upgraded wheels & tires had lots of originals for sale cheap. Randall From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Wed Aug 25 20:44:37 2010 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 19:44:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] More Differential Questions Message-ID: <002d01cb44c8$a03e8170$e0bb8450$@rr.com> Is there a good way to check the differential without removing the back cover? Skip Gurnee was kind enough to send me one he had lying around(mine is destroyed), and I want to know if I should just pop this one in, or should I replace anything first? I searched the web but couldn't find anything that describes how to test a used differential. Here's what I've found.. With the input flange on ground (the ass is pointing up), holding the axle flanges in my hand I can feel about 5 degrees rotational play. Is that a good test? Now. If I put one of the axle flanges on the ground and grab the input flange there's the same rotation but it feels different. At first there's easy rotational play (a degree or two). As you turn the flange more you feel (and hear) the internal gears "load up". Total free rotation is about 5-8 degrees. I haven't pulled the rear cover so I can't see inside. If I look at the Bentley manual it appears that the input flange has very coarse splines, which may be the cause of the "easy" rotational slop. The loading up of the differential gears themselves are causing the rest?? How much is allowed? Any ideas? Johnnie '67 TR4A From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 25 22:30:33 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 21:30:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] More Differential Questions In-Reply-To: <002d01cb44c8$a03e8170$e0bb8450$@rr.com> References: <002d01cb44c8$a03e8170$e0bb8450$@rr.com> Message-ID: <01d301cb44d7$6c7e3920$0301a8c0@randall> > Here's what I've found.. With the input flange on ground (the ass is > pointing up), holding the axle flanges in my hand I can feel > about 5 degrees > rotational play. Is that a good test? I would not call it conclusive, but it seems acceptable to me. In addition to the backlash in the ring & pinion, you are feeling the play allowed by wear in the thrust washers. > If I look at the Bentley manual it appears that the input > flange has very > coarse splines, which may be the cause of the "easy" > rotational slop. Should not be. The nut on the input flange should be torqued quite tightly, meaning the flange cannot move on the splines (at least not under pressure applied by hand). If it is moving, I would want to at least remove the input flange and see how bad the damage is from the flange banging back and forth on the splines; plus of course torque it down properly when reinstalling. (Some later TR6 diffs used a collapsible spacer, but a 4A diff should have a fixed spacer.) I would be looking more at smoothness as the differential turns. With the output flanges unloaded, the input flange should turn very smoothly. No clunks, or gritty feeling, or tight spots. Don't just spin it, but turn it slowly through several revolutions. If you hold one output flange (perhaps by resting it on the ground) and provide some resistance to the other output flange, the input should still turn smoothly. The "rebuilt" Stag diff I bought had just a tiny bit of roughness while turning the input shaft ... this is what I found when I got it apart: http://tinyurl.com/34ceogt IF everything checks out OK, I'd probably still change the input seal; and maybe the output seals if you have access to a press to get them apart. Even if it wasn't leaking for Skip, seals have a way of getting hard and not sealing after they have been "lying around". Randall From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Aug 25 22:38:48 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 21:38:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Howling Noise Message-ID: <208360.80001.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> It turned out to be the water pump. When I went to troubleshoot it I discovered the pump leaking badly. Fixed now. -Bill in Tehachapi Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 16:35:59 -0700 (PDT) From: William Brewer Subject: [TR] TR3 Howling Noise To: Triumphs Message-ID: <145682.66560.qm at web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii So today my TR3A starts to make a howling noise from the engine somewhere. It sounds like someone blowing over the neck of a bottle, but more high pitched. It sounds like it is coming from the left side of the engine, but I am not sure. It is pretty loud and can be heard at idle but appears to diminish with speed. I am in the initial phases of troubleshooting. I fear that it might be a spinning bearing or something. I'll run a stethoscope around to see if I can find a general area. Any suggestions on troubleshooting? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Thu Aug 26 01:28:46 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 07:28:46 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: <746185.60384.qm@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Darrell Floyd wrote: Why did any fool buy a new Triumph w/o OD? They were like an $85.00 option. What a shame they were not all built with OD. Two points, Darrell. 1. Of the 20% odd sports cars that were produced but went to other markets outside North America, the vast majority were fitted with overdrive as an optional extra because it was seen as a logical and highly practical option. This particularly applies to Standard-Triumph's 10+ overseas manufacturing plants where O/D was often standard equipment and a non-chargeable option. 2. Why did so few US & Canada cars not have it? Looking back to my days in the company's only showroom in the UK where we sold about 3000 cars a year to all markets, the issue of 'overdrive' on US shipments was a matter of education. Firstly, many US dealers never bothered to spec a car with O/D on their own showroom sales. They never knew when the next one was arriving, so would often sell the car on a full ticket price. Equally, info filtered back to us in the UK that many US dealers had painful knowledge of a Detroit manufactured overdrive that was (I believe) mechanical and claimed to be unreliable. So those that did know of the name 'overdrive' needed a lot of persuasion on its benefits. The selling was a hard job to a non-technical aspiring new owner until (trumpet fanfare) we modified the terminologies and appealed to vanity "you see Sir, what you get with an overdrive on the TR model is effectively a seven speed close ratio gearbox." That was the clincher! A car with a seven speed on the floor with close ratios for under $3000? Gotta have it! And that's why every sportscar for the US and Canada and sold through Standard-Triumph's London showroom was delivered with every production fitted extra - always overdrive, (almost) always a tonneau, always wire wheels, always leather seats. Reason? We needed the commission to eat and fund our rather extravagant lifestyles :) Jonmac From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 26 13:35:12 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 12:35:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle? Message-ID: <285538.18084.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [TR] Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle? Bob wrote" Darrell, I have Exide Orbitals in my 3 and 4 for 5 years and they show no signs of losing their charge. ... ------------------------ Hi Bob! I've never heard of this battery. Could you tell me where you got it? OR Where I might find it here in Lockport, NY 14094? May be you could send me a web address or phone # of where I could look to find one in Lockport? TIA, -Cosmo Kramer From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz Thu Aug 26 15:22:39 2010 From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (Sandra and Trevor Hardy) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 09:22:39 +1200 Subject: [TR] Overdrives... Message-ID: <1EF1E99379EE4ABAA5A53CC29A2A26E1@hardypc> Hiu Listers....My two cents worth regarding overdrives.......First started when mid-seventies I purchased a '73 Triumph 2.5TC saloon for the purposes of towing a caravan. This car waas fitted with OD. What a great idea! Hardly used it, except 3rd OD when towing, but when without the caravan.....all the time. I bought a 70 MGBGT with OD. Took a while to get used to the idea of the switch on the right hand corner of the dash, but eventually got there. As for the TR....it was advertised without OD, but before I had even seen the car, I had an OD box for it. Came across a reconditioned unit being sold by an ex- British Leyland guy now living here in NZ, and who has found a niche overhauling these units. He even had a gear lever with the switch on top. These are a much better idea I feel, and can provide the driver with many oportunities. What surprised me was that there was no need to alter the drive shaft! Good thinking on some engineers part there! Anyway, it's fitted, wired in and goes like an OD unit should. I merely lift my foor of the go pedal when engaging OD, the same procedure I used on my TC, which gave totally worry-free motoring for around 13 years. The only problem I ever had was a broken wire on the lock-out switch. If anybody wants details of the guy, let me know.....Cheers....Trev. Hardy, 65 TR4A (Non IRS), 70 MGBGT, 25 Chrysler Brougham. Feilding , New Zealand From darrellw at ipns.com Thu Aug 26 16:00:46 2010 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 15:00:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mystery solved (was: Re: Optima - worth it for occasional use vehicle?) In-Reply-To: <201008250727.24761.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <511FB0EF-DFC6-4005-940B-1151C703E65E@ipns.com> <201008250727.24761.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Well, I think I solved most, if not all of the problem. I decided to make sure there wasn't a current drain with the car off, and I discovered something is drawing nearly 3 amps! I haven't tracked it down yet, but it certainly explains why it was nearly impossible to charge the battery (when connected in the car) and why it wouldn't hold a charge overnight. Once I disconnected it, it charged up OK, and seems to be holding. -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Aug 26 17:26:32 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 19:26:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] use of overdrive Message-ID: <162507.77fdc209.39a85228@aol.com> In a message dated 8/26/2010 3:28:47 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk writes: And that's why every sportscar for the US and Canada and sold through Standard-Triumph's London showroom was delivered with every production fitted extra - always overdrive, (almost) always a tonneau, always wire wheels, always leather seats. Reason? We needed the commission to eat and fund our rather extravagant lifestyles :) Jonmac Hey John, I submit that you guys continue to do just that. You sent us a bunch of infinitely rebuildable Sports Cars and we are infinitely rebuilding them whilst buying all your restoration parts. Enjoy, Darrell From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Thu Aug 26 22:56:09 2010 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 21:56:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] More Differential Questions In-Reply-To: <01d301cb44d7$6c7e3920$0301a8c0@randall> References: <002d01cb44c8$a03e8170$e0bb8450$@rr.com> <01d301cb44d7$6c7e3920$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <000601cb45a4$2ab21ca0$801655e0$@rr.com> To better see what I had in front of me I decided to put some oil in and manually spin it. Well, the front (pinion) seal leaks like a sieve. The output seals didn't leak any. So, since I had to buy an oil seal I thought I may as well open the back to see if there was any internal issues. Good thing I did because there wasn't any gasket! Looking at the gears they look good. The "easy" play I found yesterday was the backlash of the pinion and crown. In doing some quick measurements the backlash was 6-10 thou. Not good, but not really enough to warrant pulling it all apart. The pinion had some brown discoloration on the teeth that looked like surface rust but seemed to wipe off with a little rubbing. No pitting of any sort. So, tomorrow I order parts from one of the big three. > If you hold one output flange > (perhaps > by resting it on the ground) and provide some resistance to the other > output > flange, the input should still turn smoothly. Everything turned very smooth. The teeth mesh pretty much on center. > IF everything checks out OK, I'd probably still change the input seal; > and > maybe the output seals if you have access to a press to get them apart. The manual says to pull the output shaft first, then separate the flange from the shaft by removing the outer nut. I did that the shaft bearing came out too. That seems bas-ackwards to me. Shouldn't you pull the flange nut first, then the bearing retainer? Holding the shaft while trying to remove the nut seems difficult. How tight is the nut on? Can the nuts be re-used? Lots of questions. Sorry. Johnnie From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 26 23:35:17 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 22:35:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] More Differential Questions In-Reply-To: <000601cb45a4$2ab21ca0$801655e0$@rr.com> References: <002d01cb44c8$a03e8170$e0bb8450$@rr.com> <01d301cb44d7$6c7e3920$0301a8c0@randall> <000601cb45a4$2ab21ca0$801655e0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <041401cb45a9$a22ed980$0301a8c0@randall> > Holding the shaft while trying to remove > the nut seems difficult. Not any easier with it still on the diff, IMO. What I did was drill some holes in a steel bar (from Home Depot) to match the flange holes. The bar makes a nice lever to pull, while you push on the breaker bar or torque wrench. You'll also need it to do the input flange. Here's a shot of the bar: http://tinyurl.com/nv6whs Although I did clamp it in the bench vise for support, the vise brakes weren't strong enough to keep it from turning when I tried to turn the nut, so I still had to hold onto the other end. > How tight is the nut on? I don't have my book handy, but it's dang tight. Seems like it was somewhere north of 100 ft-lb. > Can the nuts be re-used? They probably shouldn't be, as Nylocs lose some of their effectiveness every time they are removed and reinstalled. But I didn't have new ones handy, so I reused mine. I laid the nut on a solid surface and used a BFH to crush the Nyloc end just a bit, to force more nylon out. Randall From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 27 07:11:25 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 06:11:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Wanting an OD Message-ID: <88391.68077.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: spitlist at cox.net writes: In terms of today's money, That $85.00 could be multiplied by 10. So $850 was substantial. ------------------------------------- Good point Joe, I had forgotten that my Snickers bar was only a nickel back then. I remember that one store had a deal: Buy 6 for $.25, which meant you would get one bar FREE! ... Anyone have any spares? Darrell ////////////////////////////// Hi Darrell! Ed Woods was selling one the was rebuilt. He made an announcement on this list to want to sell it about 2-3 months ago. He may still have it. E-mail him to see. -Cosmo Kramer From rawanderer at comcast.net Fri Aug 27 07:51:31 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 09:51:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wanting an OD In-Reply-To: <88391.68077.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100827135030.1F0EE187663@autox.team.net> Darrell, Also check with John Esposito at Quantum Mechanics. His come with a warranty. Mine (a J-type for my '74 TR6) has been functioning perfectly for the past two years after some initial problems (for some reason, it didn't "like" the non-detergent straight 30-weight oil recommended by John). Regards, BobW Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philly) -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer Sent: Friday, 27 August, 2010 9:11 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: TR250Driver at aol.com Subject: [TR] Wanting an OD TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: spitlist at cox.net writes: In terms of today's money, That $85.00 could be multiplied by 10. So $850 was substantial. ------------------------------------- Good point Joe, I had forgotten that my Snickers bar was only a nickel back then. I remember that one store had a deal: Buy 6 for $.25, which meant you would get one bar FREE! ... Anyone have any spares? Darrell ////////////////////////////// Hi Darrell! Ed Woods was selling one the was rebuilt. He made an announcement on this list to want to sell it about 2-3 months ago. He may still have it. E-mail him to see. -Cosmo Kramer _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Aug 27 08:23:05 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 07:23:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wanting an OD In-Reply-To: <88391.68077.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <88391.68077.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C77CA49.4030509@gmail.com> > spitlist at cox.net writes: > In terms of today's money, That $85.00 could be multiplied by 10. So $850 > was substantial. > I was thinking that $85/month plus or minus no more than $5 was my parent's monthly house payment during that time. Our new 1960 Ford was about $2K. I have collected a number of old magazines from the late fifties and early '60s and the prices listed seem incredibly low. But the dollar bought so much more back then. To give you a better idea, I grabbed the magazine on top of the pile. June 1955 with the road test of the new XK140. Some adds for new cars: 2L Arnolt-Bristal $3995 for the competition model Coming soon, the new Mercedes 190SL, $3998 Triumph TR2 $2499 Arnolt-MG coupe $2995, convertible $3145 (badge bar $8 extra) Fiat 600 priced about $950. Panhard sports sedan, $2245 including all extras The new Jaguar XK-140 roadster, $3450, The M option (wire wheels, twin exhaust, 2 fog lamps, windshield washers $145 extra The MC option, as the M option plus special crankshaft damper, "C" type cylinder head (20 more HP) $295 extra. Or how about some nearly new used cars from the June 1955 classified section: 1951 Allard J-2 with lots of racing spares $2500 1953 Aston Martin, vantage engine, immaculate $4500 1955 Austin Healey 100, less than 1000 miles, new car condition, $2400 firm 1953 Bentley Continental, perfect show room condition, low mileage, $11000 750 c BMW/Nardi competition roadster and trailer ready to race, some spares $2000 1955 Corvette, 4 months old, perfect shape, fully equipped, asking $2600 4.9 Ferrari roadster with lots of spares, indistinguishable from new, $8000 1954 Ferrari 4.1 America-Mexico coupe 1500 miles, excellent condition $7800 1954 Ferrari 4.5 ex-Goldschmit Finished 4th in Mexico, ready to race $11,500 1954 Jaguar XK-120 , as new $3000 1948 Jaguar MK IV drop head coupe won third in latest C.S.C.C. concourse, engine overhauled with 5000 miles, $2500 1949 MGTC, 2700 miles, asking $$1100 1952 Porsche super coupe in A-1 condition $2500 1952 Riley drop head coupe, very good condition $1750 And this is just a representative sample. Teriann From popnglo at gmail.com Fri Aug 27 09:09:44 2010 From: popnglo at gmail.com (Ed Poplawski) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 11:09:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Steering failure drama Message-ID: It all started with some play in the steering between 5 o'clock and 7 on the wheel. Doing about 40 MPH it became no response at all, the steering wheel just spun without any control. Luckily, no oncoming traffic and I ended up on the wrong side of the road on the shoulder ... safely. 2 weeks ago I took it for a 300 mile trip, at considerably higher MPH, would have been a different story, I'm sure. I had it flatbedded to my garage and will start investigating, but I got an addition I've been working on that will take up my time, in the short term I'll be studying the manuals. Right now I can spin the wheel, but its like its not connected to anything. I can see the shaft spin before it enters the column of the steering box. Any suggestions?!?!?! To quote Ken Richardson, "I have seen the color of adreniline and it is brown." Ed (58 TR3A - Hudson Valley NY) From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Aug 27 09:11:53 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (tony at tonydrews.com) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 10:11:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking for good TR-4 grill Message-ID: <20100827101153.zq12yt4y8csckswg@www.tonydrews.com> I received an inquiry from a restorer who is looking for a good "early" TR-4 grill. He's restoring a 62 TR-4 and it has the later 4A grill. If you have one you'd be willing to part with for a reasonable price, let me know off list and I'll get you and the restorer in contact with each other. Thanks, Tony Drews From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Aug 27 09:12:20 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 10:12:20 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Wanting an OD Message-ID: <286158128.32978.1282921940627.JavaMail.root@vznit170074> Ah... for only a time machine and today's $....... we can only dream.... C Aug 27, 2010 02:33:59 PM, tjwakeman at gmail.com wrote: >> spitlist at cox.net writes: >> In terms of today's money, That $85.00 could be multiplied by 10. > So $850 >> was substantial. >> > >I was thinking that $85/month plus or minus no more than $5 was my >parent's monthly house payment during that time. Our new 1960 Ford was > >about $2K. > >I have collected a number of old magazines from the late fifties and >early '60s and the prices listed seem incredibly low. But the dollar >bought so much more back then. > >To give you a better idea, I grabbed the magazine on top of the pile. >June 1955 with the road test of the new XK140. > >Some adds for new cars: > >2L Arnolt-Bristal $3995 for the competition model > >Coming soon, the new Mercedes 190SL, $3998 > >Triumph TR2 $2499 > >Arnolt-MG coupe $2995, convertible $3145 (badge bar $8 extra) > >Fiat 600 priced about $950. > >Panhard sports sedan, $2245 including all extras > >The new Jaguar XK-140 roadster, $3450, The M option (wire wheels, twin >exhaust, 2 fog lamps, windshield washers $145 extra The MC option, as >the M option plus special crankshaft damper, "C" type cylinder head >(20 >more HP) $295 extra. > >Or how about some nearly new used cars from the June 1955 classified >section: > >1951 Allard J-2 with lots of racing spares $2500 > >1953 Aston Martin, vantage engine, immaculate $4500 > >1955 Austin Healey 100, less than 1000 miles, new car condition, $2400 firm > >1953 Bentley Continental, perfect show room condition, low mileage, $11000 > >750 c BMW/Nardi competition roadster and trailer ready to race, some >spares $2000 > >1955 Corvette, 4 months old, perfect shape, fully equipped, asking $2600 > >4.9 Ferrari roadster with lots of spares, indistinguishable from new, $8000 > >1954 Ferrari 4.1 America-Mexico coupe 1500 miles, excellent condition $7800 > >1954 Ferrari 4.5 ex-Goldschmit Finished 4th in Mexico, ready to race $11,500 > >1954 Jaguar XK-120 , as new $3000 > >1948 Jaguar MK IV drop head coupe won third in latest C.S.C.C. >concourse, engine overhauled with 5000 miles, $2500 > >1949 MGTC, 2700 miles, asking $$1100 > >1952 Porsche super coupe in A-1 condition $2500 > >1952 Riley drop head coupe, very good condition $1750 > >And this is just a representative sample. > >Teriann > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: >target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From rtrickey at aol.com Fri Aug 27 09:29:52 2010 From: rtrickey at aol.com (rtrickey at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 11:29:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Proper crankcase ventilation - 1975 TR6 Message-ID: <8CD1413D45FF195-1308-CC63@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> Need some suggestions/guidance for ensuring the engine in my (new to me) 1975 TR6 is properly breathing. The original emission controls for this car have been altered and the only breathing the crankcase is doing is thru a hose from the top of the rocker cover to a bTb connector and then to the base of the two down draft webers. There is no EGR valve or any other place where the crankcase is ventilated. There is oil in the carburetors and also some oil is blowing by the oil filler cap on the rocker cover. All of this can not be good for the engine and the previous owner drove this car quite a bit. What suggestions does anyone have for getting this engine to properly breathe. Is there some simple setup with a PCV that can be used? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. Rebe = From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Aug 27 09:37:46 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 11:37:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thrust washer "what if?" Message-ID: <4C77A38A.946.271D0446@localhost> What if a thrust washer falls out (or wears away) would be the result? Would it create strange engine noises? I'm musing over possibilities... -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wbeech at flash.net Fri Aug 27 09:39:59 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 09:39:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] Steering failure drama In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3669A49E86CB4E1CA4F692D7F63597AB@bboffice> Ed, You are one lucky fella indeed! Sounds like the peg has gone, or backed out, and is now longer engaged in the worm gear that drive the steering linkage. When you pull the top off the steering box it will most likely become apparent to you what has happened. Bill From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Aug 27 09:44:03 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 15:44:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] Proper crankcase ventilation - 1975 TR6 In-Reply-To: <8CD1413D45FF195-1308-CC63@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD1413D45FF195-1308-CC63@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F529C401DA@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> I have dcoe Webers on my TR6 and solved the ventilation problem with this kit from Richard Good. It simply T's into the servo hose and connects to the valve cover pipe. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=253 Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rtrickey at aol.com Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 11:30 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Proper crankcase ventilation - 1975 TR6 ... Is there some simple setup with a PCV that can be used? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. Rebe From rjones at wfeca.net Fri Aug 27 09:50:01 2010 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 10:50:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Proper crankcase ventilation - 1975 TR6 In-Reply-To: <8CD1413D45FF195-1308-CC63@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD1413D45FF195-1308-CC63@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <17F63460-17C1-42EA-9602-5DDBA718A62D@wfeca.net> Look at Richard Good's solution. Works great for me. Bob Sent from my iPhone On Aug 27, 2010, at 10:29 AM, rtrickey at aol.com wrote: > Need some suggestions/guidance for ensuring the engine in my (new to > me) 1975 > TR6 is properly breathing. The original emission controls for this > car have > been altered and the only breathing the crankcase is doing is thru a > hose from > the top of the rocker cover to a bTb connector and then to the > base of the > two down draft webers. There is no EGR valve or any other place > where the > crankcase is ventilated. > There is oil in the carburetors and also some oil is blowing by the > oil filler > cap on the rocker cover. All of this can not be good for the engine > and the > previous owner drove this car quite a bit. > What suggestions does anyone have for getting this engine to > properly breathe. > Is there some simple setup with a PCV that can be used? Thanks in > advance for > your suggestions. > Rebe > > > > = > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 27 09:56:09 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 08:56:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Proper crankcase ventilation - 1975 TR6 In-Reply-To: <8CD1413D45FF195-1308-CC63@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD1413D45FF195-1308-CC63@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <04eb01cb4600$5e294b60$0301a8c0@randall> > and the only breathing the crankcase is doing is > thru a hose from > the top of the rocker cover to a bTb connector and then to > the base of the > two down draft webers. Which is reasonably similar to the factory setup, assuming the connectors on the carbs lead to manifold vacuum. > What suggestions does anyone have for getting this engine to > properly breathe. Sounds to me like it's due for rings. That's really the problem with the factory PCV systems, they don't deal well with engines that are worn and have significant blowby (combustion gases leaking past the piston rings). > Is there some simple setup with a PCV that can be used? You could add a valve to the line you have, after making sure it leads to manifold vacuum. But the valve is only to restrict air flow from the crankcase to the intake, so it's not going to help with excess pressure inside the engine. Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Aug 27 10:30:04 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 12:30:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thrust washer "what if?" In-Reply-To: <4C77A38A.946.271D0446@localhost> References: <4C77A38A.946.271D0446@localhost> Message-ID: <201008271230.05615.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday, August 27, 2010 11:37:46 am Jim Muller wrote: > What if a thrust washer falls out (or wears away) would be the > result? Would it create strange engine noises? I'm musing over > possibilities... Jim, On the TR6 it is a real problem and somewhat common. You can search the 6-pack forum for all the horror stories and methods to check the end float etc. Easiest way to check for sure is to drop the oil pan. The biggest problem is that the crank will eat away at the rear most main not only destroying the crank but also the block since the caps are line bored. Not sure if the TR6 design is the same for the Spits and GT6s. Bob From jdabars at att.net Fri Aug 27 10:52:53 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 09:52:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR-4 grill, TR-250 Grill & nice badges, some NOS, both grills super RE: message 4, 26 August Message-ID: <910460.29282.qm@web83715.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message 4, 26 August----John Macartney statement about London dealer sales to yanks---fully loaded. Not so on sales in USA. Brother in law purchased new TR-250 in Indianapolis, IN (and still has it) NO wires, NO leather, Michelin-XRadials was $60 option installed by dealer(original came with Goodyear redlines) radio was dealer installed option, and overdrive was $225 on a TR-6 (1976) have window sticker from the 6 which I Just purchased, with 63,000K, from original owner, sitting in garage past 10 yrs unused, covered by bed sheets. Please get it out of the garage---need room for my gardening tools. Lady owner 62, single.Always dreamt of an one owner TRIUMF. Got all paperwork, even ton of repair orders. There is an interesting story ---maybe write someday for VTR magazine. Have NICE TR-4 & TR-250 grills and NOS badges for the 250. Prefer NOT to ship. Will be @ VTR nationals oct., St.Louis 11 sep., Chicago sep 12. I am in Indianapolis, Indiana," Racing Capital of the World" John owner of a rare, one of three badge engineered, TRIUMPH VAN 1962. Needs much attention. Sold in Canada only. In UK and rest of the world it was ATLAS. From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Fri Aug 27 11:27:03 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 12:27:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wanting an OD In-Reply-To: <4C77CA49.4030509@gmail.com> References: <88391.68077.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, <4C77CA49.4030509@gmail.com> Message-ID: Gas was only about $.25 so the break even point would have been saving 340 gal. The high speed roads did not exist either, at least not in the midwest. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 07:23:05 -0700 > From: tjwakeman at gmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Wanting an OD > > > spitlist at cox.net writes: > > In terms of today's money, That $85.00 could be multiplied by 10. So $850 > > was substantial. > > > > I was thinking that $85/month plus or minus no more than $5 was my > parent's monthly house payment during that time. Our new 1960 Ford was > about $2K. > > I have collected a number of old magazines from the late fifties and > early '60s and the prices listed seem incredibly low. But the dollar > bought so much more back then. > > To give you a better idea, I grabbed the magazine on top of the pile. > June 1955 with the road test of the new XK140. > > Some adds for new cars: > > 2L Arnolt-Bristal $3995 for the competition model > > Coming soon, the new Mercedes 190SL, $3998 > > Triumph TR2 $2499 > > Arnolt-MG coupe $2995, convertible $3145 (badge bar $8 extra) > > Fiat 600 priced about $950. > > Panhard sports sedan, $2245 including all extras > > The new Jaguar XK-140 roadster, $3450, The M option (wire wheels, twin > exhaust, 2 fog lamps, windshield washers $145 extra The MC option, as > the M option plus special crankshaft damper, "C" type cylinder head (20 > more HP) $295 extra. > > Or how about some nearly new used cars from the June 1955 classified > section: > > 1951 Allard J-2 with lots of racing spares $2500 > > 1953 Aston Martin, vantage engine, immaculate $4500 > > 1955 Austin Healey 100, less than 1000 miles, new car condition, $2400 firm > > 1953 Bentley Continental, perfect show room condition, low mileage, $11000 > > 750 c BMW/Nardi competition roadster and trailer ready to race, some > spares $2000 > > 1955 Corvette, 4 months old, perfect shape, fully equipped, asking $2600 > > 4.9 Ferrari roadster with lots of spares, indistinguishable from new, $8000 > > 1954 Ferrari 4.1 America-Mexico coupe 1500 miles, excellent condition $7800 > > 1954 Ferrari 4.5 ex-Goldschmit Finished 4th in Mexico, ready to race $11,500 > > 1954 Jaguar XK-120 , as new $3000 > > 1948 Jaguar MK IV drop head coupe won third in latest C.S.C.C. > concourse, engine overhauled with 5000 miles, $2500 > > 1949 MGTC, 2700 miles, asking $$1100 > > 1952 Porsche super coupe in A-1 condition $2500 > > 1952 Riley drop head coupe, very good condition $1750 > > And this is just a representative sample. > > Teriann > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Aug 27 12:19:58 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 14:19:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire overdrive question Message-ID: List, I just picked up a Spitfire overdrive transmission with an 'A' type overdrive and a single rail shifter. Knowing little about Spitfires, does someone on the List care to comment on what I've acquired and what models it suits? Thanks, Ed Woods From aribert at c3net.net Fri Aug 27 12:28:52 2010 From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 14:28:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] GT6 spin on oil filter - late response Message-ID: <89293e14181eb073bce5bbd50dde0c17.squirrel@server6.glis.net> At the beginning of the week someone (Sam?) asked about spin on oil filters for use w/ GT6. I finally got around to looking at what I use & take a .jpg but by now I have lost the original poster's question. I run a 2.5L in my Spit bodied GT6 and sourced a used oil filter adapter from someone on this list years ago. I don't know the brand but it uses BS (British Standard) threads for the oil cooler hose fittings (a pita to get hoses made up in the US w/ the correct fitting). I use a tiny oil filter that uses the standard 3/4 inch threads. I use STP P/N S3512 oil filter that I buy at Autozone (in the US), an inexpensive US made filter, no idea who makes it. This filter interchanges w/ Wix 51056 & Fram PH3512. Somewhere I also have a Renault oil filter P/N (I am guessing the original application was for a LeCar or similar vehicle). THe canister is 3 inches in diameter and 2.75 tall from the seal to the crown of the canister. FWIW, I use the STP brand of oil filters for both the GT76 & my Isuzu Amigo with no issues but STP brand oil filters is a poor choice for my older F150 (lots of engine rattling on start up - assume a drain back valve spec is wrong for the correct P/N for the Ford engine). For some .jpgs http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/P2050051.jpg, http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/P2050055.jpg, http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/P2050049.jpg From spitlist at cox.net Fri Aug 27 12:47:28 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 11:47:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire overdrive question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100827184728.XLOI29852.fed1rmmtao104.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> It was part of the later 1500 production. The single rail is very much like those gearboxes that were installed in TR7's. It it is in good nick, it should serve you well. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 11:20 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spitfire overdrive question List, I just picked up a Spitfire overdrive transmission with an 'A' type overdrive and a single rail shifter. Knowing little about Spitfires, does someone on the List care to comment on what I've acquired and what models it suits? Thanks, Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From spitlist at cox.net Fri Aug 27 12:48:30 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 11:48:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire overdrive question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100827184826.YGGU3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> I might add that it is suitable for Spitfires (all models) and Heralds. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 11:20 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spitfire overdrive question List, I just picked up a Spitfire overdrive transmission with an 'A' type overdrive and a single rail shifter. Knowing little about Spitfires, does someone on the List care to comment on what I've acquired and what models it suits? Thanks, Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Aug 27 13:16:19 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 15:16:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire overdrive question References: Message-ID: <9558479AA1974439834894A17189E450@Edscomputer> Brad, Should have looked at the Spit manual B4 asking the question. It's a 'D' type o/d to fit from a MkIII to 1500 if the Bentley manual is correct. Ed From spitlist at cox.net Fri Aug 27 13:38:48 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 12:38:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire overdrive question In-Reply-To: <9558479AA1974439834894A17189E450@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <20100827193844.ZTAD16314.fed1rmmtao105.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> Later 1500's came with a J type OD. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 12:16 PM To: Brad Kahler Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire overdrive question Brad, Should have looked at the Spit manual B4 asking the question. It's a 'D' type o/d to fit from a MkIII to 1500 if the Bentley manual is correct. Ed _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Aug 27 14:41:44 2010 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 16:41:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire overdrive question Message-ID: <380-220108527204144496@M2W134.mail2web.com> Are you sure it's a "A" type, and not a "J" type Single rail Spitfires never came with an A type overdrive - in fact to my knowledge, no Spitfire ever came with an "A" type. The early Spitfires came with a "D" type, and later Spitfires used a "J" type overdrive unit - Barry Schwartz - Original Message: ----------------- From: Ed Woods fogbro1 at comcast.net Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 14:19:58 -0400 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spitfire overdrive question List, I just picked up a Spitfire overdrive transmission with an 'A' type overdrive and a single rail shifter. Knowing little about Spitfires, does someone on the List care to comment on what I've acquired and what models it suits? Thanks, Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/v6spitfireguy at cox.net -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Aug 27 16:03:30 2010 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 18:03:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wanting an overdrive Message-ID: <0109A950CA7B4178B46491CFD8724764@DaveLaptop> Here is a link to a CPI conversion program that is kind of a eye opener. http://www.westegg.com/inflation/ You enter the dollars you want to convert and then the initial year and the final year. My 1967 Mustang at $2,800.00 would be almost $18,000.00 in today's dollars! Yikes! Dave Connitt '67 Triumph TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From akgraves at cox.net Fri Aug 27 16:28:53 2010 From: akgraves at cox.net (Art & Karen Graves) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 17:28:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Thrust washer "what if?" Message-ID: <001501cb4637$3aebab20$b0c30160$@net> >Subject: [TR] Thrust washer "what if?" >To: triumphs at autox.team.net, spitfires at autox.team.net >Message-ID: <4C77A38A.946.271D0446 at localhost> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII > >What if a thrust washer falls out (or wears away) would be the >result? Would it create strange engine noises? I'm musing over >possibilities... > >-- >Jim Muller Jim, Unfortunately this has just happened to me. I bought a newly rebuilt engine 'on faith' that had never been started. I checked and corrected a few things, but did not look at the thrust washers. The engine ran great in every respect. In fact I drove it to Summer Party with no worries. Well, almost no worries. My clutch started acting strange in that, after hours on the interstate it would push to the floor, but pumping it would bring it back. It only did this after periods of non-use. I figured the clutch master needed a rebuild. A few weeks ago I dropped the oil pan to see what kind of sludge was there (assembly lube) and to fix a stripped hole in the front sealing block. Imagine my surprise when I saw the thrust washers in the pan. I did not ever hear any unusual or grinding noises, but I have heard others report on noise. My crankshaft and block are surely damaged, but may be repairable. We'll see. In the meantime, I decided to rebuild my original engine in order to get back on the road sooner. Jekyll Island is coming up! I have heard of thrust washer problems, but never seen them first hand. My guess is that engines coming from the factory would almost never have this problem. But an engine that has been rebuilt or 'tinkered' with is a prime candidate. My old engine has 200k miles and the end float is .010 - out of spec, but not too bad! Lucky me, the guy that rebuilt it knew what he was doing. I will report back here after I tear down the engine and see the damage. Art Graves Tulsa, OK 1976 Triumph TR6 From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Aug 27 16:39:36 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 18:39:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Eye opener In-Reply-To: <0109A950CA7B4178B46491CFD8724764@DaveLaptop> References: <0109A950CA7B4178B46491CFD8724764@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <8CD144FDC438F70-147C-26E5@Webmail-m117.sysops.aol.com> Wow! Dad's '64 Herald 1200 would list for $13337.42 ($1949 POE East Coast in '64)! Actually, that's not all that bad a deal.... ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt Here is a link to a CPI conversion program that is kind of a eye opener. http://www.westegg.com/inflation/ You enter the dollars you want to convert and then the initial year and the final year. My 1967 Mustang at $2,800.00 would be almost $18,000.00 in today's dollars! Yikes! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 27 16:58:10 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 15:58:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wanting an overdrive In-Reply-To: <0109A950CA7B4178B46491CFD8724764@DaveLaptop> References: <0109A950CA7B4178B46491CFD8724764@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <073c01cb463b$52ab3d80$f801b880$@rr.com> > My 1967 Mustang at $2,800.00 would be almost $18,000.00 in > today's dollars! Still a bargain, tho, since a base 2010 Mustang is $21K (and you can easily drop $50K on one). -- Randall From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Aug 27 17:12:29 2010 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 19:12:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wanting an overdrive In-Reply-To: <073c01cb463b$52ab3d80$f801b880$@rr.com> References: <0109A950CA7B4178B46491CFD8724764@DaveLaptop> <073c01cb463b$52ab3d80$f801b880$@rr.com> Message-ID: <73A645BDFBD94579AEFB139D7518EB02@DaveLaptop> I also had a 1967 Yamaha 305 Scrambler that cost a whopping $750.00 back then (almost 5K today!) As I remember, the total payments for both back then was about $125.00 per month. Luckily, I was still living at home then.. Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 6:58 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Wanting an overdrive >> My 1967 Mustang at $2,800.00 would be almost $18,000.00 in >> today's dollars! > > Still a bargain, tho, since a base 2010 Mustang is $21K (and you can > easily > drop $50K on one). > > -- Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net From mntr3a at aol.com Fri Aug 27 17:17:13 2010 From: mntr3a at aol.com (mntr3a at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 19:17:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: 1960 TR3A In-Reply-To: <513832.33836.qm@web120013.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <513832.33836.qm@web120013.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD14551DC8B7A2-1618-32F3@webmail-m082.sysops.aol.com> Pat's Piston Palace and Parts Emporium presents a TR3 with a syncro transmission Sat for 20 years gone over Starts,Stops & Steers. "no overdrive" For Sale $9700.00 1960 TR3A Green, with Tan Interior. White top & side curtains. Patrick R. Holt Minneapolis,MN. 612-388-0505 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of green tr3.JPG] From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Aug 27 22:11:40 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 23:11:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking for good TR-4 grill In-Reply-To: <20100827101153.zq12yt4y8csckswg@www.tonydrews.com> References: <20100827101153.zq12yt4y8csckswg@www.tonydrews.com> Message-ID: <20100828041059.56B5918763E@autox.team.net> Thanks to all who responded - I think I've hooked a brudda up. - Tony At 10:11 AM 8/27/2010, tony at tonydrews.com wrote: >I received an inquiry from a restorer who is looking for a good >"early" TR-4 grill. He's restoring a 62 TR-4 and it has the later 4A >grill. If you have one you'd be willing to part with for a reasonable >price, let me know off list and I'll get you and the restorer in >contact with each other. > >Thanks, Tony Drews > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From don at napanet.net Fri Aug 27 23:09:48 2010 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 22:09:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity Message-ID: <20100828050956.50D2BAE8AB@mail.dsl.napanet.net> A friend of mine that lives in Vancouver sent me this today, an inspiring article about a 92-year old British car nut in Vancouver. Secret to longevity: classic car restoration, says Spitfire Dick. At 92, Dick Frankish shows no sign of slowing down and remains one of the world's leading authorities on restoration. Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/cars/Secret+longevity+classic+restoration+says+Spitfire+Dick/3449074/story.html Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars From spitlist at cox.net Fri Aug 27 23:22:30 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 22:22:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity In-Reply-To: <20100828050956.50D2BAE8AB@mail.dsl.napanet.net> Message-ID: <20100828052225.MXOU23088.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net> I'll use that next time the wife bitches about how much time I spend on my cars. Or not, sometimes I think she'd rather that I just die! :) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of don Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 10:10 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity A friend of mine that lives in Vancouver sent me this today, an inspiring article about a 92-year old British car nut in Vancouver. Secret to longevity: classic car restoration, says Spitfire Dick. At 92, Dick Frankish shows no sign of slowing down and remains one of the world's leading authorities on restoration. Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/cars/Secret+longevity+classic+restoration+says+S pitfire+Dick/3449074/story.html Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 28 05:22:41 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 04:22:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity In-Reply-To: <20100828052225.MXOU23088.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net> References: <20100828050956.50D2BAE8AB@mail.dsl.napanet.net> <20100828052225.MXOU23088.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net> Message-ID: <06a701cb46a3$54cb1500$0301a8c0@randall> > I'll use that next time the wife bitches about how much time > I spend on my > cars. Or not, sometimes I think she'd rather that I just die! :) Have you tried asking if she would prefer you sitting on a stool at the local bar, offering the waitress a lube job? Randall From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sat Aug 28 06:30:42 2010 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (frede.thomas2) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 07:30:42 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity Message-ID: <2440674.527367.1282998642233.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> From Chip19474 at aol.com Sat Aug 28 06:55:26 2010 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 08:55:26 EDT Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity Message-ID: <4373c.405e85ec.39aa613e@aol.com> That's really funny, Joe. I've given my wife specific instructions on what to do with my car and various scattered car parts in the event of my untimely demise. I always thought that this was a nice, responsible gesture to ease her anxiety but lately I'm wondering whether my motives may have backfired......she keeps asking me "how much would that TR6 sell for today??:)!!" Chip Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 8/28/2010 1:22:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: sometimes I think she'd rather that I just die! :) From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sat Aug 28 07:24:42 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 13:24:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A Mystery Caged Nuts In-Reply-To: <1368886644.628600.1283001864483.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1379577256.628613.1283001882513.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> As I start to lay out my heat shield and carpet for the '59 TR3A, I am making sure that all unclaimed holes and nuts are sealed. There are 3 caged nuts that have not claimed a part that I want to make sure I am not missing something. All 3 are on the passenger side bulkhead, with the caged nut on the engine bay side, in dicating the screw would be from the cabin side. Two are vertical in orientation to each other, below where the acceslerator bar bearing attaches to the wall. The other one is just around the corner crease of the bulkhead above the lower end of the transmission tunnel, facing the rear of the car. None of these have a a mirrored double on the driver's side, so it does not seem to be related to right hand versus left hand steering. I can find no reference to what would have gone here and have no left over parts that would make any sense. I am assuming it is some leftover from an earlier model that was no longer applicable, but they left it in the tub production? I plan on sealing these, but thought it best to check first.B TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sat Aug 28 08:01:47 2010 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 10:01:47 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 spin on oil filter - late response Message-ID: <46c87.54b6b604.39aa70cb@aol.com> Indeed it is I, Sam Clark, that posted the question. I am not running an oil cooler, but the filter that I have been trying to fit is an inch longer than what you describe. That should fit. I will now get on the phone and see if anyone here in the Tulsa areas carry one of those filters. You may have just saved me a lot of work. I was getting ready to pull the adapter off and go back with the canister. BTW only the last picture came through but I get the idea. Thank you to all that responded to my post. This list is great! Sam In a message dated 8/28/2010 12:17:10 A.M. Central Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: At the beginning of the week someone (Sam?) asked about spin on oil filters for use w/ GT6. I finally got around to looking at what I use & take a .jpg but by now I have lost the original poster's question. I run a 2.5L in my Spit bodied GT6 and sourced a used oil filter adapter from someone on this list years ago. I don't know the brand but it uses BS (British Standard) threads for the oil cooler hose fittings (a pita to get hoses made up in the US w/ the correct fitting). I use a tiny oil filter that uses the standard 3/4 inch threads. I use STP P/N S3512 oil filter that I buy at Autozone (in the US), an inexpensive US made filter, no idea who makes it. This filter interchanges w/ Wix 51056 & Fram PH3512. Somewhere I also have a Renault oil filter P/N (I am guessing the original application was for a LeCar or similar vehicle). THe canister is 3 inches in diameter and 2.75 tall from the seal to the crown of the canister. FWIW, I use the STP brand of oil filters for both the GT76 & my Isuzu Amigo with no issues but STP brand oil filters is a poor choice for my older F150 (lots of engine rattling on start up - assume a drain back valve spec is wrong for the correct P/N for the Ford engine). For some .jpgs http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/P2050051.jpg, http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/P2050055.jpg, http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/P2050049.jpg From dave at ranteer.com Sat Aug 28 08:30:59 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 09:30:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] [SPAM] Re: Secret to longevity In-Reply-To: <06a701cb46a3$54cb1500$0301a8c0@randall> References: <20100828050956.50D2BAE8AB@mail.dsl.napanet.net><20100828052225.MXOU23088.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net> <06a701cb46a3$54cb1500$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: a friend of mine mentioned that his wife used to complain about garage time until she was listening to Dr Ruth one day when a woman called in to complain about the same thing. Dr Ruth said - do you have any idea how many women I talk to would love to trade places with you????? -------------------------------------------------- From: "Randall" Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 6:22 AM To: Subject: [SPAM] Re: [TR] Secret to longevity >> I'll use that next time the wife bitches about how much time >> I spend on my >> cars. Or not, sometimes I think she'd rather that I just die! :) > > Have you tried asking if she would prefer you sitting on a stool at the > local bar, offering the waitress a lube job? > > Randall From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Sat Aug 28 08:46:00 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 14:46:00 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity In-Reply-To: <2440674.527367.1282998642233.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> References: <2440674.527367.1282998642233.JavaMail.root@vznit170136> Message-ID: <150978.35368.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hey Lists, Does anyone in 'listsland' live near Fred Thomas - or even know his phone number? It's clear our dear friend and long-serving list stalwart is still having probs with his email settings. Maybe someone who is a Triumph 'geek' and also a computer 'geek' can work with Fred in getting him to be able to contact us. I'm beginning to wonder if he's got so busy with his powder coating that he's powder-coated both his hard disk and his keyboard! It would be so good to hear what Fred has to say instead of looking at a blank page on which he's obviously written *something* in an invisible font! Jonmac ________________________________ From: frede.thomas2 To: spitlist at cox.net Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 28 August, 2010 13:30:42 Subject: Re: [TR] Secret to longevity _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Aug 28 08:53:49 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 10:53:49 EDT Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity Message-ID: <49574.1b702220.39aa7cfd@cs.com> In a message dated 8/28/2010 6:22:54 AM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > >I'll use that next time the wife bitches about how much time > >I spend on my > >cars. Or not, sometimes I think she'd rather that I just die! :) > > Have you tried asking if she would prefer you sitting on a stool at the > local bar, offering the waitress a lube job? > My wife had a change of heart after her sister divorced her philandering husband. Sometimes putting things in perspective works. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Aug 28 08:58:30 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 10:58:30 EDT Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity Message-ID: <498c4.15f4b4e2.39aa7e16@cs.com> In a message dated 8/28/2010 8:00:25 AM Central Daylight Time, Chip19474 at aol.com writes: > That's really funny, Joe. I've given my wife specific instructions on > what to do with my car and various scattered car parts in the event of my > > untimely demise. I always thought that this was a nice, responsible > gesture to > ease her anxiety but lately I'm wondering whether my motives may have > backfired......she keeps asking me "how much would that TR6 sell for > today??:)!!" > Hmm... Maybe taking out a mortgage on it amking it worth very little but gaining in value as time goes on (as you pay down the mortgage) will have a positive effect on your longevity. Also, cancel any life insurance policies you have. ;-) Dave From rbtr3a at cox.net Sat Aug 28 09:30:01 2010 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 15:30:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] aint it great to see Message-ID: Aint it great to see Fred Thomas back on the list ... I missed that ole Fart........lifes good again ronnie From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 28 09:44:39 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 08:44:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A Mystery Caged Nuts In-Reply-To: <1379577256.628613.1283001882513.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1368886644.628600.1283001864483.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1379577256.628613.1283001882513.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <06ed01cb46c7$ed169ef0$0301a8c0@randall> > None of these have a a mirrored double on the driver's side, > so it does not > seem to be related to right hand versus left hand steering. Actually, one possibility would be the brace/pivot for the accelerator pedal. Since the pedal is always on the driver's right, for RHS cars the shaft has to cross over the passenger compartment. For LHS it doesn't cross over and so need no extra bracing. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 28 09:47:08 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 08:47:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] aint it great to see In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <06ee01cb46c8$4602c020$0301a8c0@randall> > Aint it great to see Fred Thomas back on the list ... Yes indeed, but it's not like him to have so little to say! Randall From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Aug 28 11:12:26 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 13:12:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity In-Reply-To: <20100828050956.50D2BAE8AB@mail.dsl.napanet.net> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438B979ACF6C@CMS01.winhosting.local> A heartwarming article for Triumphites indeed, but imagine going through life being known as Spitfire Dick... It would be a sort of "death by puns" existence. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of don Sent: August 28, 2010 1:10 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity A friend of mine that lives in Vancouver sent me this today, an inspiring article about a 92-year old British car nut in Vancouver. Secret to longevity: classic car restoration, says Spitfire Dick. At 92, Dick Frankish shows no sign of slowing down and remains one of the world's leading authorities on restoration. Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/cars/Secret+longevity+classic+restoration+says+Sp itfire+Dick/3449074/story.html Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars From cofrog at q.com Sat Aug 28 11:44:38 2010 From: cofrog at q.com (Dan Forgey) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 17:44:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] IRS Stuff Message-ID: I upgraded the TR4A race car suspension. Thus I have a set of Richard Good's springs and two Spax adjustable rear shocks that fit the tube shock conversion that I need to get rid of. These are for an IRS car. Dan Forgey From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sat Aug 28 12:10:16 2010 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 11:10:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <227617.18135.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I've tried that. Doesn't work. My wife is pretty much against anything I enjoy doing. So....I just do it and turn up the volume on the radio. Chad in Tulsa ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 04:22:41 -0700 From: "Randall" Subject: Re: [TR] Secret to longevity To: Message-ID: <06a701cb46a3$54cb1500$0301a8c0 at randall> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > I'll use that next time the wife bitches about how much time > I spend on my > cars. Or not, sometimes I think she'd rather that I just die! :) Have you tried asking if she would prefer you sitting on a stool at the local bar, offering the waitress a lube job? Randall From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Aug 28 13:27:48 2010 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 15:27:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity In-Reply-To: <227617.18135.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <227617.18135.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <96BFC0760322483EA3F8AE30000E129B@DaveLaptop> How does that saying go..? "It's better to plead for forgiveness afterwards than ask for permission ahead of time" or something like that. Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 28 13:44:48 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 12:44:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity In-Reply-To: <96BFC0760322483EA3F8AE30000E129B@DaveLaptop> References: <227617.18135.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <96BFC0760322483EA3F8AE30000E129B@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <075b01cb46e9$79c5edd0$0301a8c0@randall> > How does that saying go..? > > "It's better to plead for forgiveness afterwards than ask for > permission > ahead of time" or something like that. Ah yes. Stewart's Law of Retroaction : "It's easier to get forgiveness than permission" Our departmental secretary used to have that on a plaque over her desk. Oddly enough, her name was Stewart Randall From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Aug 28 13:53:56 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 15:53:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Secret to longevity In-Reply-To: <075b01cb46e9$79c5edd0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <227617.18135.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, <96BFC0760322483EA3F8AE30000E129B@DaveLaptop>, <075b01cb46e9$79c5edd0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: > Ah yes. Stewart's Law of Retroaction : > > "It's easier to get forgiveness than permission" > > Our departmental secretary used to have that on a plaque over her desk. > > Oddly enough, her name was Stewart > > Randall Originally attributed to Admiral Grace Hopper, I have read. One suggestion: When asking for forgiveness, do not use curse words. I have experimented with this. From TR4Zest at gmail.com Sat Aug 28 14:36:59 2010 From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 20:36:59 +0000 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Dick Message-ID: <90e6ba53a24070d06b048ee831f5@google.com> > A heartwarming article for Triumphites indeed, but imagine going through > life > being known as Spitfire Dick... It would be a sort of "death by puns" > existence. > Mark Hooper At 92, it's a slow death... There are a lot worse nicknames to go with Dick. 'Spitfire' isn't too bad at all. Lets be glad he doesn't have a limp. Clearly the guy has amassed a great deal of knowledge on this one variant. 50 cars later, you have to admire his tenacity as much as his longevity. Brian From mark at bradakis.com Sat Aug 28 16:46:46 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 16:46:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Thrust washer "what if?" In-Reply-To: <4C77A38A.946.271D0446@localhost> References: <4C77A38A.946.271D0446@localhost> Message-ID: <4C7991D6.9020901@bradakis.com> By the time you hear noises the crank has already machined its way into the block, crudely, I might add. Well, one noise that you will hear is the grinding of gears when shifting, as the clutch pushes the crank into the space where the thrust washer used to be, rather than compressing the diaphragm spring enough to disengage. A common problem on Spits, GT6s, TR250 and 5s, as well as MG Midgets with the Spitfire 1500 in them. One fix is to machine the main cap to hold an additional thrust washer so there is a full 360 degrees of coverage on the rear side. That's the side that takes the lion's share of the wear due to clutch usage. Then the thrust washers are pinned into position. Of course, the fix has to be done BEFORE the block and crank are destroyed. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Sat Aug 28 17:28:39 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 17:28:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] Inflation and such Message-ID: <4C799BA7.6060101@bradakis.com> I have heard it was Ben Franklin who said that "An ounce of gold should buy a man a good suit." I could certainly get a good suit for $1200. And on occasion I dig out these snippets from the classifieds ads in a copy of a 1973 Indianapolis Star newspaper: '67 Chevelle, 396, 4 spd. $950 '67 Corvette conv. air, power windows, 427, $2,300 Ferrari, 1959 250 GT, 12 cyl. 2 passenger, excel. cond. $4,950 '53 Jag XK120 show car, $3,395 '64 MGB New red paint, new top, luggage rack, very fast, $1,000 '59 MGA, engine good, body needs work $500 '58 Porsche, runs good, $850 '60 Triumph, 4 spd., looks, runs perfect $300 '64 TR4 wire wheels, new paint, tires, $750 '64 TR4 Rebuilt, mech. perfect, new tires, no rust $850 '56 Morgan Plus 4, excel. orig. condition, $3,500 mjb. From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat Aug 28 18:10:56 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 19:10:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: Inflation and such In-Reply-To: References: <4C799BA7.6060101@bradakis.com>, Message-ID: > '60 Triumph, 4 spd., looks, runs perfect $300 Mark, Do you have the phone number? It looks like it might be good deal! Maybe it hasn't sold in the last 37 years... %^) Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From don at napanet.net Sun Aug 29 02:00:44 2010 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 01:00:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Code Name Bullet Message-ID: <20100829080052.ED89FAE688@mail.dsl.napanet.net> Here are links to information about a film about the TR7 and 8, and a trailer for the film. The trailer's music score sounds like it was produced by the same orchestra that does background music for cheap porn films (not that I would know that). I have owned two TR8s. Story of the Triumph TR7 & 8 - Code Name Bullet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xGrikwogeY&feature=youtube_gdata http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Aug 29 07:19:46 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 06:19:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] SoCal Wire Wheel Balancers Message-ID: <963517.8822.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I was going to buy a new set of Vreds for my front wheels on my TR3. I bought SS spokes from British Wire Wheel in Fresno. Rumor (forums) has it that they are out of business. I live in a small town and am concerned that the local guys won't balance them right or worse, will mess up the wheels somehow. Does anyone know of a wire wheel place in the SoCal central California area that is trustworthy? I was really happy with BWW, even though they weren't cheap. Bill in Tehachapi From L1J1S at aol.com Sun Aug 29 09:19:22 2010 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 11:19:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR tr-3 reAr fender WTD. Message-ID: <72b63.54258898.39abd47a@aol.com> List, a very good friend of mine on his way to a car show this morning was hit in the left rear of his treasured TR-3. the driver of the van didn't even have the curiosity of stopping, another words a hit and run. what a bummer. i am trying to help him locate a left rear fender for the car. if you can help my buddy out contact me. thanks, larry schwartz From dwillner at ptd.net Sun Aug 29 12:06:43 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 14:06:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] need a supplier for Lucas switch chrome bezels Message-ID: Does anyone know if there is a supplier for the chrome bexzels for the Lucas switches/ignition? I see lots of tools to remove them these days, but no bezels...thanks Dave Willner, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 Victor Special 2009 Mustang GT Supercharged From trguy at cfl.rr.com Sun Aug 29 16:49:00 2010 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 18:49:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Part Needed Message-ID: Team: I am in need of rear tailight assembly for my TR4 and would prefer not to buy new as she is going to be a nice driver . Doesn't have to have a lens, but that is always helpful if available. Looking for a good used piece without too much pitting of the chrome. Please email me off line if you can assist. Thanks in advance, Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 62 TR4 CT5212LO (she's running!) 75 TR6 From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com Mon Aug 30 06:31:44 2010 From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:31:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] bonnet will not open -66TR4A Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C24252724CC20C2@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> Pulled the bonnet release cable today and much to my dismay the bonnet did not open. I then reached for my backup cable and still no good. Both cables have tension on them and I believe I hear the latch move. I find it hard to believe both would fail simultaneously. I have tried to push down on the center of the bonnet near the latch but no there is no play or spring whatsoever. I'm suspecting the spring has gone out of alignment(?). What would you recommend as next steps? Thank you Peter From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Mon Aug 30 07:43:35 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 09:43:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Code Name Bullet In-Reply-To: <20100829080052.ED89FAE688@mail.dsl.napanet.net> References: <20100829080052.ED89FAE688@mail.dsl.napanet.net> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438B979FC5BB@CMS01.winhosting.local> Hi Don: Thanks for the link. Despite your insightful comment on the sound track, I'm sure it's understood you have no knowledge of cheap porn movies. Unquestionably, an experienced Triumphite like yourself buys only the expensive ones. ;^P Cheers, Mark ________________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of don [don at napanet.net] Sent: August 29, 2010 4:00 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Code Name Bullet Here are links to information about a film about the TR7 and 8, and a trailer for the film. The trailer's music score sounds like it was produced by the same orchestra that does background music for cheap porn films (not that I would know that). I have owned two TR8s. Story of the Triumph TR7 & 8 - Code Name Bullet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xGrikwogeY&feature=youtube_gdata http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars From jgillis at tcd.ie Mon Aug 30 08:53:49 2010 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 15:53:49 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR2 rough running update Message-ID: <1283180029.4c7bc5fd4ac6f@mymail.tcd.ie> Further on from my rough runing engine that would not rev out and had low vacuum readings, while preparing to remove carbs and manifold to check for leaks I discovered the float in the front carb was full of fuel, this should not be the cause of my problems, but ordered a new float, popped it in and......well it starts, with a bit of coaxing when cold, but now ticks over and revs out once warm, don't know why the float should have affected this?. Now the runing and reving engine is popping alot through the carbs and the exhaust, also using the lifting pins on the carbs only ever lowers the revs, ie too rich and no adjustment seems to change this. I fell I'm getting closer but still need help. John John Gillis Senior Conservator From lbc.resto at verizon.net Mon Aug 30 10:25:37 2010 From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 12:25:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Overdrive Message-ID: <006801cb485f$fafeb2c0$f0fc1840$@verizon.net> The recent overdrive thread got me thinking again about what I want to do with my non-OD TR4. About 3 years ago I bought an "A" OD TR6 box with the intent of overhauling it myself. I completely disassembled it to find that it appears to be in pretty good condition. Time was spent time on eBay sourcing some items such as main bearings, solenoid, harness etc, but it still needs some parts to be replaced. Then life got in the way and as my current box is still running well my motivation was to drive it rather than work on it (too much). This weekend, I noticed that my clutch bite point is getting very high, so I suspect that a transmission pull is coming soon to change the clutch. I had OD on my TR4 and TR5 back in the day and loved it, but I am also thinking about going the 5-speed route. I think that I have heard all the arguments both ways and just need to make up my mind; cost is obviously a factor. If I go the latter, then I would like to gauge interest in a disassembled OD unit before I put it on eBay. Ian 62 TR4 From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 30 10:30:22 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 09:30:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] shameless self promotion Message-ID: <931517.88827.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> finally i have inventory of the fuel pump blank off plates that fit the TR6 TR7 spitfire gt6 etc. i also have new inventory of the Zenith carb float gage. Frank From allegrorover at mac.com Mon Aug 30 11:17:58 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 12:17:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2 rough running update In-Reply-To: <1283180029.4c7bc5fd4ac6f@mymail.tcd.ie> References: <1283180029.4c7bc5fd4ac6f@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <71378DC2-915C-40BC-B98F-9EFAEE9F834B@mac.com> Hi Jihn, Not that I am an expert, but I can tell you about my most recent problem which was very similar to yours. Mine carbs have the vent tube on to of the float bowls and it had the wrong gaskets on it. it needed the bottom gasket to have the three little cutouts on it so the bowl can vent. My rear bowl was staying full and it drove me patzo for over a year. Hope this helps. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From carlsereda at aol.com Mon Aug 30 13:02:50 2010 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 12:02:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] stuck TR4A bonnet In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <29B7C14F.746C.41F0.A00A.317D982E88DF@aol.com> Peter, Guessing a little here - the head of bonnet plunger may have not been centered exactly and is snagging off to the side of its receiving hole. You might try having someone pull both release cables whilst you firmly jostle the bonnet around by the eyebrows (attempting to jar the plunger forward and back, and side to side, to uncatch head of plunger from side of hole.. otherwise you may have to start taking things apart behind cubby box to do the same.. Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 On Aug 30, 2010, at 11:00:03 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: Pulled the bonnet release cable today and much to my dismay the bonnet did not open. I then reached for my backup cable and still no good. Both cables have tension on them and I believe I hear the latch move. I find it hard to believe both would fail simultaneously. I have tried to push down on the center of the bonnet near the latch but no there is no play or spring whatsoever. I'm suspecting the spring has gone out of alignment(?). What would you recommend as next steps? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 30 15:59:58 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 14:59:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 rough running update In-Reply-To: <1283180029.4c7bc5fd4ac6f@mymail.tcd.ie> References: <1283180029.4c7bc5fd4ac6f@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <0d3901cb488e$b0b63c40$1222b4c0$@rr.com> > Now the runing and > reving engine is popping alot through the carbs and the exhaust, also > using the > lifting pins on the carbs only ever lowers the revs, ie too rich and no > adjustment seems to change this. It's the other way round, John. If lifting the pin only drops the rpm, then the mixture is too lean. The backfiring is also a symptom of being too lean. Unscrew the mixture nuts by 2-3 flats and check again, I think you'll find it's better. If it was too rich, then lifting the pin would cause the engine rpm to rise and stay up. Ideal of course is when it rises a bit and then falls back to where it was. -- Randall From FrankB at saceboard.sa.gov.au Mon Aug 30 17:16:55 2010 From: FrankB at saceboard.sa.gov.au (Biedermann, Frank (SACE Board)) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 08:46:55 +0930 Subject: [TR] Overdrive In-Reply-To: <006801cb485f$fafeb2c0$f0fc1840$@verizon.net> References: <006801cb485f$fafeb2c0$f0fc1840$@verizon.net> Message-ID: Hi Ian, I'd certainly be interested in it, as I have an OD-less early TR6, but I think the cost of shipping might be prohibitive given you're probably in the states, and I'm in Australia. I'm pretty sure you won't have any problems selling the overdrive, even if it is disassembled provided all the unobtanium bits are still there... Frank Biedermann 69 TR6 PI Adelaide, Australia -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of LBC.Resto Sent: Tuesday, 31 August 2010 1:56 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Overdrive The recent overdrive thread got me thinking again about what I want to do with my non-OD TR4. About 3 years ago I bought an "A" OD TR6 box with the intent of overhauling it myself. I completely disassembled it to find that it appears to be in pretty good condition. Time was spent time on eBay sourcing some items such as main bearings, solenoid, harness etc, but it still needs some parts to be replaced. Then life got in the way and as my current box is still running well my motivation was to drive it rather than work on it (too much). This weekend, I noticed that my clutch bite point is getting very high, so I suspect that a transmission pull is coming soon to change the clutch. I had OD on my TR4 and TR5 back in the day and loved it, but I am also thinking about going the 5-speed route. I think that I have heard all the arguments both ways and just need to make up my mind; cost is obviously a factor. If I go the latter, then I would like to gauge interest in a disassembled OD unit before I put it on eBay. Ian 62 TR4 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frankb at saceboard.sa.gov.au From jaltman at altlaw.com Mon Aug 30 17:41:00 2010 From: jaltman at altlaw.com (Jim Altman) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 19:41:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] i sold my tr6 Message-ID: <94B81445E5149C498064E94F0930EEC824CEE94C@SBS08.altlaw.local> But don't worry I still have the stag and the 8. I think it's also time for the stag to go, I just don't drive it. So: 1) If anyone on the list wants to talk Stag, before I post to Craig's list or elsewhere, send me an email direct (off list). I am in Atlanta, Ga. It's in fairly good shape. The Engine and drive train (auto tranny) are sound. Engine was rebuilt by a prior owner and has around 10,000 miles on it. The car has around 75000. The paint was redone, and although the color is nice (BRG), it wasn't very well done and is cracking in places, esp. the trunk. No rust, sound body and I live in a no salt environment. The Interior is good, carpets are new, everything works. The starter solenoid is balky, but always starts. a/c present but unconverted from R12 and not working. Soft top and most trim for the soft top is in a box in the trunk. I have owned it 6 or 7 years. 2) I own the name tr6.org. I don't own a 6 anymore. The name is good into the beginning of 2014. I haven't done much with it in the last few years. I'd rather see it get used for/by a hobbyist purpose than it end up for a commercial one. Anyone want it? 3) The 6 was a fine run, many good hours/days of driving and wrenching, but time to move on. My son and I did a cross-country road trip in the late 90's and had a great time. Its replacement is a 1973 240Z, I had a 73 in ... 73. I am not sure I can handle that there are no leaks coming from it. Engine and drive train are sound, body looks great, has a few electrics that need sorting. The 8 remains the daily driver. Jim Altman jaltman at altlaw.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 30 17:56:46 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 16:56:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Overdrive In-Reply-To: References: <006801cb485f$fafeb2c0$f0fc1840$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <0da001cb489f$01d72cf0$058586d0$@rr.com> > provided all the unobtanium bits > are still there... Aye, there's the rub. To me, "disassembled" is practically synonymous with "crucial, unobtanium part missing". -- Randall From jhassall at blacksburg.net Mon Aug 30 18:54:43 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 20:54:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] bonnet will not open -66TR4A In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C24252724CC20C2@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C24252724CC20C2@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> Message-ID: <4C7C52D3.9080801@blacksburg.net> On 8/30/2010 8:31 AM, Dachnowicz, Peter wrote: > Pulled the bonnet release cable today and much to my dismay the bonnet did not > open. > I then reached for my backup cable and still no good. > Both cables have tension on them and I believe I hear the latch move. > I find it hard to believe both would fail simultaneously. > I have tried to push down on the center of the bonnet near the latch but no > there is no play or spring whatsoever. > I'm suspecting the spring has gone out of alignment(?). > > What would you recommend as next steps? > Peter, I had good success by removing the bonnet hinge bolts and raising the leading edge just enough to poke the latch with a broom handle. Then I bought the emergency bonnet release from Macy's Garage and of course have never had a bit of trouble. jim -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Aug 30 19:12:28 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 21:12:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Code Name Bullet In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438B979FC5BB@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <20100829080052.ED89FAE688@mail.dsl.napanet.net> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438B979FC5BB@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: bow chicka bow bow!!!! From Bob at texmog.com Mon Aug 30 19:19:34 2010 From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 20:19:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2 rough running update Message-ID: Randall, In all my reading I've always seen the phrase " ...ideal of course is when it rises a bit and then falls back to where it was." What I've never seen is how much is a 'Bit'? Can you put RPMS to that or is it so small that I would not see it on a tach? Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > Unscrew the mixture nuts by 2-3 flats and check again, I > > think you'll find it's better. > > > > If it was too rich, then lifting the pin would cause the > > engine rpm to rise and stay up. Ideal of course is when it > > rises a bit and then falls back to where it was. > > > > -- Randall From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 30 19:46:00 2010 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 18:46:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] i sold my tr6 In-Reply-To: <94B81445E5149C498064E94F0930EEC824CEE94C@SBS08.altlaw.local> References: <94B81445E5149C498064E94F0930EEC824CEE94C@SBS08.altlaw.local> Message-ID: <716624.62953.qm@web51303.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Jim Your six website was a huge help and inspiration for me as I dug into the re-incarnation of my Jasmine 69 TR6. Thanks for the effort that you put into the site and for the information and advice that you shared though it. Most appreciated! Best wishes Steve CC25805L - and now - "O" - thanks in large part to your site. ----- Original Message ---- From: Jim Altman To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Mon, August 30, 2010 6:41:00 PM Subject: [TR] i sold my tr6 But don't worry I still have the stag and the 8. I think it's also time for the stag to go, I just don't drive it. So: 1) If anyone on the list wants to talk Stag, before I post to Craig's list or elsewhere, send me an email direct (off list). I am in Atlanta, Ga. It's in fairly good shape. The Engine and drive train (auto tranny) are sound. Engine was rebuilt by a prior owner and has around 10,000 miles on it. The car has around 75000. The paint was redone, and although the color is nice (BRG), it wasn't very well done and is cracking in places, esp. the trunk. No rust, sound body and I live in a no salt environment. The Interior is good, carpets are new, everything works. The starter solenoid is balky, but always starts. a/c present but unconverted from R12 and not working. Soft top and most trim for the soft top is in a box in the trunk. I have owned it 6 or 7 years. 2) I own the name tr6.org. I don't own a 6 anymore. The name is good into the beginning of 2014. I haven't done much with it in the last few years. I'd rather see it get used for/by a hobbyist purpose than it end up for a commercial one. Anyone want it? 3) The 6 was a fine run, many good hours/days of driving and wrenching, but time to move on. My son and I did a cross-country road trip in the late 90's and had a great time. Its replacement is a 1973 240Z, I had a 73 in ... 73. I am not sure I can handle that there are no leaks coming from it. Engine and drive train are sound, body looks great, has a few electrics that need sorting. The 8 remains the daily driver. Jim Altman jaltman at altlaw.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dogzbody1 at yahoo.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 30 20:13:02 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 19:13:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 rough running update In-Reply-To: References: <0d3901cb488e$b0b63c40$1222b4c0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <0e0401cb48b2$124ff680$36efe380$@rr.com> > What I've never seen is how much is a 'Bit'? Can you put RPMS to that > or is > it so small that I would not see it on a tach? I've never tried to watch the tach at the same time, Bob. But I would guess that we are talking about perhaps 50-100 rpm increase. The change is quite apparent to the ear, but I suppose that would not help if one were deaf or whatever. The increase is rather brief, though, so I'm not sure how well it would show up on a digital tach. The main thing is that it winds up where it started, rather than distinctly higher or lower. -- Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Aug 30 20:16:49 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 22:16:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Overdrive References: <006801cb485f$fafeb2c0$f0fc1840$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <8C744B482787422F9F282763CD9DD785@Edscomputer> List, Just to clarify: almost all 'A' type overdrive "wear" parts are obtainable, new, from guys like John Esposito of Quantumechanics. Any parts no longer manufactured are still in good supply. Again, from John in the US and others in the UK. There are Healey 'A' types everywhere. Unlike Triumphs, almost every Big Healey that came to the US had overdrive, all 'A' types. Except for the annulus and rear case, both obtainable rebuilt or new, they are, for all practical purposes, identical to the Triumph 'A' type version. Every recycled Healey has one. So don't dispair. You don't have to go to a Toyota 5 speed if you don't want to. Ed Woods From bjzwissler at gmail.com Tue Aug 31 13:48:28 2010 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 15:48:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 378 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Another suggestion - try jacking the car from front, back, left and right and see if that lets it pop loose when the cable is pulled. Jacking deforms the body quite a bit and will shift the pin/latch alignment. Ben....... Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 12:02:50 -0700 From: carlsereda Subject: Re: [TR] stuck TR4A bonnet To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <29B7C14F.746C.41F0.A00A.317D982E88DF at aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Peter, Guessing a little here - the head of bonnet plunger may have not been centered exactly and is snagging off to the side of its receiving hole. You might try having someone pull both release cables whilst you firmly jostle the bonnet around by the eyebrows (attempting to jar the plunger forward and back, and side to side, to uncatch head of plunger from side of hole.. otherwise you may have to start taking things apart behind cubby box to do the same.. Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 On Aug 30, 2010, at 11:00:03 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: Pulled the bonnet release cable today and much to my dismay the bonnet did not open. I then reached for my backup cable and still no good. Both cables have tension on them and I believe I hear the latch move. I find it hard to believe both would fail simultaneously. I have tried to push down on the center of the bonnet near the latch but no there is no play or spring whatsoever. I'm suspecting the spring has gone out of alignment(?). What would you recommend as next steps? From pethier at comcast.net Tue Aug 31 20:09:32 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 02:09:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 378 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2091515464.51529.1283306972317.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> That's good executive thinking! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Benjamin Zwissler" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 2:48:28 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 378 > > Another suggestion - try jacking the car from front, back, left and > right > and see if that lets it pop loose when the cable is pulled. Jacking > deforms > the body quite a bit and will shift the pin/latch alignment. > > Ben....... > > > Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 12:02:50 -0700 > From: carlsereda > Subject: Re: [TR] stuck TR4A bonnet > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <29B7C14F.746C.41F0.A00A.317D982E88DF at aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Peter, > Guessing a little here - the head of bonnet plunger may have not been > centered exactly and is snagging off to the side of its receiving > hole. > You might try having someone pull both release cables whilst you > firmly jostle the bonnet around by the eyebrows (attempting to jar > the > plunger forward and back, and side to side, to uncatch head of > plunger > from side of hole.. otherwise you may have to start taking things > apart behind cubby box to do the same.. > Good luck, > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 > > On Aug 30, 2010, at 11:00:03 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net > wrote: > > Pulled the bonnet release cable today and much to my dismay the > bonnet > did not > open. > I then reached for my backup cable and still no good. > Both cables have tension on them and I believe I hear the latch move. > I find it hard to believe both would fail simultaneously. > I have tried to push down on the center of the bonnet near the latch > but no > there is no play or spring whatsoever. > I'm suspecting the spring has gone out of alignment(?). > > What would you recommend as next steps? > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net