From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 1 00:11:17 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 01:11:17 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] Fools and Funding Message-ID: <20100401071117.138E62E0A5@bradakis.com> No, this is not a political rant about the scoundrels on Capitol Hill. I'll rant about that elsewhere, probably the prattle forum on the Team.Net forums. For the moment, though, consider this my annual State of Team.Net speech. It is getting sent out on All Fool's Day. More on that in a bit. Back in April of 1991 the domain team.net was registered. We are 19 years old this month. Of course there were a few years before then that email was just sent to various places as the lists were in their infancy. The patriarch of the family was SOL, the Scions of Lucas, thanks to Dale Cook and Jim Muller. Now there are over 60 Team.Net email lists, and about 14,000 subscribers scattered about the planet. And 19 years old describes my age when I moved to Salt Lake City, a young lad looking for adventure in the mountains through climbing and skiing. And many an adventure was to be had. The biggest was no doubt the Weird Winter Wall trip of 1977. I really need to write that up, get a bunch of the slides digitized to share with others. The short version is that I am amazingly lucky to still be alive. It was April 1st, 1977 when the four of us, hungry and exhausted, demoralized and chilled to the bone sat on a mountainside in the Wind Rivers and watched the sun come up. Sunrises are always beautiful, but to this day those firstly faint glowing streaks of red, orange and gold have never looked so welcome as on that morning. We knew we'd make it, we'd see more sunrises. It seems appropriate that we returned to civilization on April Fool's day. A winter ascent of the North Face of Mt. Hooker seems a fool's errand in hindsight. But I survived. And Team.Net has survived. There have certainly been many times over the years when I've felt the fool for putting in the effort to keep it going. Just hitting the off switch and walking away would have been so easy. But far more prominent are the occasions where a well crafted message, an unsolicited thank you or donation, a T shirt or some trinket unexpectedly showing up at my doorstep makes me realize what a treasure Team.Net has been over the years. There are untold old classics out there still on the road, thanks to you folks. Sure, you may have never turned a wrench on them, or pushed them in or out of the garage, but the technical support provided, along with the email equivalent of a friendly smile and a heartfelt pat on the back has kept folks going. They've taken that fool's errand of a hopeless restoration and brought it back from near death to see another sunrise. If you see fit, please make use of the information provided at http://www.team.net/donate.html mjb. "But look, the morn in russet mantle clad walks o'er the dew of yon high eastward hill" Hamlet, Wm. Shakespeare From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 1 01:21:08 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 02:21:08 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] Fools and Funding Message-ID: <20100401082108.57AE62E086@bradakis.com> No, this is not a political rant about the scoundrels on Capitol Hill. I'll rant about that elsewhere, probably the prattle forum on the Team.Net forums. For the moment, though, consider this my annual State of Team.Net speech. It is getting sent out on All Fool's Day. More on that in a bit. Back in April of 1991 the domain team.net was registered. We are 19 years old this month. Of course there were a few years before then that email was just sent to various places as the lists were in their infancy. The patriarch of the family was SOL, the Scions of Lucas, thanks to Dale Cook and Jim Muller. Now there are over 60 Team.Net email lists, and about 14,000 subscribers scattered about the planet. And 19 years old describes my age when I moved to Salt Lake City, a young lad looking for adventure in the mountains through climbing and skiing. And many an adventure was to be had. The biggest was no doubt the Weird Winter Wall trip of 1977. I really need to write that up, get a bunch of the slides digitized to share with others. The short version is that I am amazingly lucky to still be alive. It was April 1st, 1977 when the four of us, hungry and exhausted, demoralized and chilled to the bone sat on a mountainside in the Wind Rivers and watched the sun come up. Sunrises are always beautiful, but to this day those first faintly glowing streaks of red, orange and gold have never looked so welcome as on that morning. We knew we'd make it, we'd see more sunrises. It seems appropriate that we returned to civilization on April Fool's day. A winter ascent of the North Face of Mt. Hooker seems a fool's errand in hindsight. But I survived. And Team.Net has survived. There have certainly been many times over the years when I've felt the fool for putting in the effort to keep it going. Just hitting the off switch and walking away would have been so easy. But far more prominent are the occasions where a well crafted message, an unsolicited thank you or donation, a T shirt or some trinket unexpectedly showing up at my doorstep makes me realize what a treasure Team.Net has been over the years. There are untold old classics out there still on the road, thanks to you folks. Sure, you may have never turned a wrench on them, or pushed them in or out of the garage, but the technical support provided, along with the email equivalent of a friendly smile and a heartfelt pat on the back has kept folks going. They've taken that fool's errand of a hopeless restoration and brought it back from near death to see another sunrise. If you see fit, please make use of the information provided at http://www.team.net/donate.html mjb. "But look, the morn in russet mantle clad walks o'er the dew of yon high eastward hill" Hamlet, Wm. Shakespeare From mathews at uga.edu Thu Apr 1 04:28:08 2010 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 07:28:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph World Availability (USA) EWA site In-Reply-To: References: <798525.18402.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BB48348.4030306@uga.edu> The EWA site, EWA1.com now says "NO Longer Taking Orders". Doug On 3/31/2010 10:28 PM, John Henard wrote: > I subscribed for several years through EWA Cars From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Apr 1 05:06:14 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 08:06:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 fan hub measurement In-Reply-To: <0782A96CC5DC4D239227D04DCDA43BDF@CarlPC> References: <42D769A2EAE44FF0AC896CAD98EBBD9D@CarlPC> <28E28B32866C4E64A2F15D8199A6279C@CarlPC> <0782A96CC5DC4D239227D04DCDA43BDF@CarlPC> Message-ID: I decided it just couldn't be right. When I looked at the vertical alignment of the belt it was 'out' about 3/8". After much verbal abuse, I was able to pull the fan hub and found that it wasn't. The key on the crankshaft had come out and was wedged behind fan hub. All is good now - and on to the next step this weekend. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: "triumph list" Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 7:54 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 fan hub measurement > Good evening all. > > I mounted the fan hub, pulley, extension yesterday. The pulley is > extremely close to the center tie rod. Could someone please measure the > distance from the timing cover to the back of the fan hub? From rdowdy at verizon.net Thu Apr 1 07:10:34 2010 From: rdowdy at verizon.net (rdowdy at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 09:10:34 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Radiator for 1961 TR3a Message-ID: <17144244.167374.1270131034325.JavaMail.root@vms061.mailsrvcs.net> /MsrigR: Permission denied From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Thu Apr 1 07:23:50 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 09:23:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph World Availability (USA) EWA site In-Reply-To: <4BB48348.4030306@uga.edu> References: <798525.18402.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, , <4BB48348.4030306@uga.edu> Message-ID: The USA distributor changed in the last year. I will have to look for my renewal sheet. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 07:28:08 -0400 > From: mathews at uga.edu > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph World Availability (USA) EWA site > > The EWA site, EWA1.com now says "NO Longer Taking Orders". > > Doug > > On 3/31/2010 10:28 PM, John Henard wrote: > > I subscribed for several years through EWA Cars > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Apr 1 07:51:58 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 07:51:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] A-Type OD Disengaging Question Message-ID: <89485.95210.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I have a 1960 TR3 with a TR6 transmission with an A-type overdrive. Everything works well except that when I take it out of overdrive while going down a hill (in gear) it doesn't disengage the overdrive for about 10 seconds when I flick the switch. It seems to come out of overdrive if I flick the switch out of overdrive with the clutch in, but this is not always the case. Likewise, If I am driving up a hill and take it out of overdrive it disengages immediately. Are there adjustments I can make to fix this? As it is now, I just drive it and enjoy it even though it is not working as I think it should. TIA Bill in Tehachapi From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 1 09:03:30 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 09:03:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] A-Type OD Disengaging Question In-Reply-To: <89485.95210.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <89485.95210.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <06c201cad1b4$df78b9f0$0301a8c0@randall> > Everything works well except that when I take it out of > overdrive while going > down a hill (in gear) it doesn't disengage the overdrive for > about 10 seconds > when I flick the switch. Most likely, there is a bit of swarf caught in the tiny hole in the side of the operating valve, item CT42 here: http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6bluebook/95.php When the OD is disengaged, that hole bleeds oil from the operating pistons to allow the clutches to move back to the direct drive position. While the pistons are moving, the clutches are not engaged and only the sprag clutch in the tail drives the output. When you have power on, the sprag clutch make it seem like direct drive engages immediately, but in an overrun condition (like going downhill), the sprag clutch freewheels (making it seem like you are still in overdrive). The cure unfortunately involves pulling the tunnel, but at least you don't have to pull the OD. Undo the plug (item CT46) and fish out the spring, plunger and ball (45,44,43). Then straighten a paper clip and put a little kink in it, so you can push it into the center of the valve and lift the valve out. (A magnetic "fish" tool will work as well, if you've got one small enough). Clean the hole and put it all back together, should be fine. Some of the racers even enlarge the hole, but I don't. Weak springs and/or worn clutches may be part of the problem, but check the hole first. -- Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Apr 1 09:41:13 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 12:41:13 EDT Subject: [TR] Update on TriumphBob Message-ID: Hi, Bob is still in the Cleveland Clinic and has gone thru another 7 day Chemo treatment. What followed was a series of stomach problems and two weeks of misery that really took him to the brink. Last Sunday he was finally able to hold down some solid food, "Diced pears, 6 teaspoons of mashed potatoes and 1 tater tot made for a superb day!" according to his wife, Ava who has the following request that I would like to share with all his Triumph friends: I have a specific prayer request at this time. Bob will have another bone marrow biopsy on Thursday, 4/1. We MUST get the results showing NO leukemia cells present in his marrow. His body is still fighting a very serious infection and he would not be able to have more chemo should the results be otherwise so, PLEASE pray for a marrow clear of any leukemia cells. Again.....thank you for all the Emails, cards and prayers. Bob IS getting better, but his biggest hurdle is just around the corner. Fondly, Ava In addition to your prayers if you would like to send him an e-mail his address is posted below in my original post. If you would like to send him a card his address is: The Cleveland Clinic Foundation Attn: Robert Palmer G111-20 9500 Euclid Ave. Cleveland, OH 44195 Regards, Darrell (Original Post) Hi Guys, Just thought I should post a note about our dear friend Bob Palmer. I am sure many of you know him for he has been my sidekick for nearly 20 years now as we have done all things Triumph together. We recently made the trek to the NATC in SLO together. It was a great life time experience for both of us. Bob has been in the Cleveland Clinic for a week now battling an acute blood disorder that came on suddenly. Aggressive Chemo Therapy has been conducted for 7 days and now Bob is resting and awaiting bone marrow tests which will determine the next course of treatment. He is in good spirits and a strong person so the prognosis for a full recovery is good. If you would like to send him a note of encouragement for a full recovery his e-mail is _TriumphBob at aol.com_ (mailto:TriumphBob at aol.com) . His lovely wife Ava is by his side and printing out all his e-mails for him. God Bless Him, Darrell From coefront at shaw.ca Thu Apr 1 10:47:15 2010 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 11:47:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR 8 / 7 Message-ID: <7A316A772F844CE3A1B603E7DA1DD2C6@coe> I've for sale are: 1: A three row radiator. 2: A 16" rad electric fan. 3: A KN cone F.I. filter. Mike coefront at shaw.ca. Calgary. Alberta. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 11:19:19 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 11:19:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders Message-ID: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> i would be very interested to see what you fellow TR3 owners have done to hold your tea or coffee cups while you drive. or other car owners. now that the car is on the road im driving the heck out of it, but find i need 2 hands to drive. a photograph would be great, probably have to mail it direct to my email, or you tech guys will probably direct me to some other place on the web. i did think of building a custom box between the seats, but will i be knocking the cup out of the holder every time i change down? thanks Frank From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Thu Apr 1 12:22:30 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 15:22:30 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders Message-ID: Sorry to say this Frank, but I don't feel safe with a cup of anything in the car. I feel the nature of my TR3 means I need to have both hands available for operating the vehicle at all times. I suppose it might be a bit different if I were to drive on long, straight stretches of four lane highway with no traffic. And if my steering box wasn't so worn... I have occasionally considered installing some kind of cup holder, but as the car requires more physical attention than a modern econorotbox, I can't bring myself to do it. I'm sorry that doesn't help, but I felt I had to voice my opinion. Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, ON K0A 1B0 Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Apr 1 12:39:46 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 14:39:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders Message-ID: <18985274.175237.1270150786688.JavaMail.root@vms061.mailsrvcs.net> At the most recent show I attended - Little British Car Co (http://www.lbcarco.com/) tested the center console they sell for the MGB in the TR3. It seemed to work pretty good. Was the right height for resting the arm; fir snugly between the seats; and had the curved base to fit on the drive tunnel. Fastens with 4 screws into the tunnel for anchoring. The cup holder was a bit shallow and I was thinking that the bottom could be removed for more depth. A bit pricey at around $80 but may be worth the hassle. since my '3 is a bit away from the road it is a 'gati' item (get around to it) They were going to change their description for the particular one that worked but I don't think they have yet. Apr 1, 2010 07:17:38 PM, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com wrote: i did think of building a custom box between the seats, but will i be knocking the cup out of the holder every time i change down? thanks From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net Thu Apr 1 12:40:35 2010 From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 15:40:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders In-Reply-To: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <530496D515EA43968D2AB2F44CD40363@TomandWendyPC> I have used an "octopus" cup holder for years. It has zero installation time and can be removed quickly when you don't need it. It can also be used in other cars. It also is good for holding things like a cel-phone, sunglasses, wallet or EZ-Pass when driving on a toll road, etc. Amazon has them here: http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=octopus+cup+holder&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=1100353661&ref=pd_sl_8f93s4b27f_e ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 2:19 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders >i would be very interested to see what you fellow TR3 owners have done to >hold > your tea or coffee cups while you drive. or other car owners. > now that the car > is on the road im driving the heck out of it, but find i need 2 hands to > drive. > a photograph would be great, probably have to mail it direct to my > email, or you tech guys will probably direct me to some other place on the > web. > i did think of building a custom box between the seats, but will i be > knocking the cup out of the holder every time i change down? > thanks > Frank > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net From cfisher at borgwarner.com Thu Apr 1 12:56:28 2010 From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 15:56:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders In-Reply-To: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD02ABCE88@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> Frank, I have the cup holder from Moss that clips to your rubber floor mat. I have one on each side for the drive and passenger and they work great. Don't have catalog with me at the moment but could look it up if you can't find it. Curt -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 1:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders i would be very interested to see what you fellow TR3 owners have done to hold your tea or coffee cups while you drive. or other car owners. now that the car is on the road im driving the heck out of it, but find i need 2 hands to drive. a photograph would be great, probably have to mail it direct to my email, or you tech guys will probably direct me to some other place on the web. i did think of building a custom box between the seats, but will i be knocking the cup out of the holder every time i change down? thanks Frank _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfisher at borgwarner.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 13:36:22 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 13:36:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders In-Reply-To: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD02ABCE88@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> References: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD02ABCE88@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> Message-ID: <268303.38105.qm@web113315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Curt i took a look in their catalog. it looks really simple and clean. does it not get knocked by your leg? where exactly did you locate it? ________________________________ From: "cfisher at borgwarner.com" To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, April 1, 2010 12:56:28 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 tea holders Frank, I have the cup holder from Moss that clips to your rubber floor mat. I have one on each side for the drive and passenger and they work great. Don't have catalog with me at the moment but could look it up if you can't find it. Curt -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 1:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders i would be very interested to see what you fellow TR3 owners have done to hold your tea or coffee cups while you drive. or other car owners. now that the car is on the road im driving the heck out of it, but find i need 2 hands to drive. a photograph would be great, probably have to mail it direct to my email, or you tech guys will probably direct me to some other place on the web. i did think of building a custom box between the seats, but will i be knocking the cup out of the holder every time i change down? thanks Frank _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfisher at borgwarner.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 13:50:07 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 13:50:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders Message-ID: <550929.28262.qm@web113302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> it is the job of the passenger. but there are plenty of times when im alone. i did think about the one that screws on. my thoughts where about how much they get in the way in what is a fairly small cockpit. would one keep giving it the knee? and spilling the precious fluid. To: Frank Fisher Sent: Thu, April 1, 2010 1:44:45 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 tea holders Frank, Isn't that the job of the "significant other"? Seriously, Moss has a foldable cup/bottle holder that screws on to the transmission hump. The diagrams and pix indicate that it would be on the passenger side by the center console (TR6). This seems to be inconvenient for the driver, but you may be able to put it on the kick panel or on the driver's side of the tranny hump right by the seat (your knees). Regards, BobW Montgomeryville, Pa. 1974 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, 01 April, 2010 2:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders i would be very interested to see what you fellow TR3 owners have done to hold your tea or coffee cups while you drive. or other car owners. now that the car is on the road im driving the heck out of it, but find i need 2 hands to drive. a photograph would be great, probably have to mail it direct to my email, or you tech guys will probably direct me to some other place on the web. i did think of building a custom box between the seats, but will i be knocking the cup out of the holder every time i change down? thanks Frank _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net From tfansher at comcast.net Thu Apr 1 13:58:06 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 20:58:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders In-Reply-To: <530496D515EA43968D2AB2F44CD40363@TomandWendyPC> Message-ID: <1814929009.8990361270155486344.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I've used an "octopus" cup holder for a couple of years also, both in the TR3 and the Stag. I've had it tip over with my coffee travel mug which is tall. I've been planning to come up with a wider "footprint" for the holder. Either attaching it to a larger diameter piece of plywood or applying some velco "hook side" to the bottom of the cup so it will grab the carpet - don't know if this would hurt the carpet or not. I'll probably go with the plywood. Tom Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tea holders I have used an "octopus" cup holder for years. It has zero installation time and can be removed quickly when you don't need it. It can also be used in other cars. It also is good for holding things like a cel-phone, sunglasses, wallet or EZ-Pass when driving on a toll road, etc. Amazon has them here: http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=octopus+cup+holder&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=1100353661&ref=pd_sl_8f93s4b27f_e From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Apr 1 17:31:37 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 00:31:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders In-Reply-To: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F503FFE5@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> This el-cheapo and somewhat fragile JCW arm rest is popular with the TR6 crowd. It can be coerced into an arm rest, storage, a location for power outlets and one of those fold up cup holders can be screwed to the front as I am modeling here: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/JCW%20Armrest/cupholderc losed.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/JCW%20Armrest/cupholdero pen.jpg Used in this mode the armrest is too far back to be useable as an armrest (any further forward and you hit the cup with your elbow when changing gear) but it meets all of the other needs and I don't care about an arm rest as I'm generally using both arms to drive. For the other cupholder we use one that just clips into the window channel on the passenger side but I realize that might be a challenge on the earlier cars which were made before windows had been invented. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 2:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders i would be very interested to see what you fellow TR3 owners have done to hold your tea or coffee cups while you drive. or other car owners. now that the car is on the road im driving the heck out of it, but find i need 2 hands to drive. a photograph would be great, probably have to mail it direct to my email, or you tech guys will probably direct me to some other place on the web. i did think of building a custom box between the seats, but will i be knocking the cup out of the holder every time i change down? thanks Frank From tochilds at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 1 19:50:52 2010 From: tochilds at bellsouth.net (Tony Childs) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 22:50:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F503FFE5@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F503FFE5@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <008701cad20f$4fe41310$efac3930$@net> You may want to check out this link - www.triumphconsoles.com . Not cheap but well made and period correct. They even offer a money back guarantee if you are happy with it.. Tony Childs '72 Spitfire MKIV -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 8:32 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tea holders This el-cheapo and somewhat fragile JCW arm rest is popular with the TR6 crowd. It can be coerced into an arm rest, storage, a location for power outlets and one of those fold up cup holders can be screwed to the front as I am modeling here: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/JCW%20Armrest/cupholder c losed.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/JCW%20Armrest/cupholder o pen.jpg Used in this mode the armrest is too far back to be useable as an armrest (any further forward and you hit the cup with your elbow when changing gear) but it meets all of the other needs and I don't care about an arm rest as I'm generally using both arms to drive. For the other cupholder we use one that just clips into the window channel on the passenger side but I realize that might be a challenge on the earlier cars which were made before windows had been invented. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 2:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders i would be very interested to see what you fellow TR3 owners have done to hold your tea or coffee cups while you drive. or other car owners. now that the car is on the road im driving the heck out of it, but find i need 2 hands to drive. a photograph would be great, probably have to mail it direct to my email, or you tech guys will probably direct me to some other place on the web. i did think of building a custom box between the seats, but will i be knocking the cup out of the holder every time i change down? thanks Frank _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tochilds at bellsouth.net From wquincy at cox.net Thu Apr 1 20:35:49 2010 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 22:35:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Main Seal Message-ID: <6EAEC6B7-2602-4231-8E50-5ACC57044507@cox.net> Greetings Fellow Listers, Can a leaking rear main seal be repaired with the engine still in the car? Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. TR3A TS69623LO From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 1 21:57:28 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 21:57:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Main Seal In-Reply-To: <6EAEC6B7-2602-4231-8E50-5ACC57044507@cox.net> References: <6EAEC6B7-2602-4231-8E50-5ACC57044507@cox.net> Message-ID: <07fd01cad220$fed35690$0301a8c0@randall> > Can a leaking rear main seal be repaired with the engine > still in the car? If you are crazy/determined enough. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Thu Apr 1 22:23:48 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 23:23:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Main Seal In-Reply-To: <6EAEC6B7-2602-4231-8E50-5ACC57044507@cox.net> References: <6EAEC6B7-2602-4231-8E50-5ACC57044507@cox.net> Message-ID: Bill, I asked this very same question of the list last year and everyone agreed that while maybe it could be done it was not worth the trouble to try that type of repair from underneath the car. I pulled the engine is just a few hours, I am glad I did. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William C. Quincy Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 9:36 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Main Seal Greetings Fellow Listers, Can a leaking rear main seal be repaired with the engine still in the car? Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. TR3A TS69623LO _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr4zest at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 04:32:58 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 07:32:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Controller Message-ID: I have removed the mechanical fan on my TR4 and installed a 16" puller fan. This exercise was to eliminate the rotating mass of the fan and fan extension (more than 6 lbs); my car is not prone to over-heating. I had been looking at the many options for controlling a fan and decided on this flexible speed controller, bought from Summit Racing: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-31165/ This version senses ooolant temperature via a probe pushed into the radiator fins near the radiator inlet. They have an option that provides an NPT sender for mounting in, perhaps, the coolant return pipe. I am very pleased with the quality of this controller - I just hope it proves durable. The main feature that appealed to me was that when the fan comes 'On' at the temperature you have set for the controller, the fan starts at only 60% of its capacity. If that fan speed is insufficient to bring the water temperature down, over the rising 10 degrees beyond your temperature setting, the controller gradually accelerates the fan up to 100% capacity for maximum air movement through the radiator. This gradual introduction of power to the fan minimises strain on the charging system of my TR4. I have mounted the 2"x5"x0.5" controller beneath the near-side horn, so it is unobtrusive. I took battery-power from the solenoid (the controller incorporates the relay), and switched power from the fuse box. A switch may also be mounted in the cabin to either switch the fan on (hot traffic) or off (Autocross runs). The same switch may perform either function by moving the switch's wire between either of two push-on connectors. One more feature - an additional wire connection can be installed to trip the fan to come on as an air conditioning system comes on, in anticipation of need. Anyway, I just thought I'd share in case anybody is considering an electric fan installation. Brian Jones Valley Forge, PA From lherault at bu.edu Fri Apr 2 05:54:39 2010 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 08:54:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] cup holder In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002201cad263$a7b6c9d0$5fd6299b@ad.bu.edu> The Rubberqueen 51216 Cup-N-Can Holder Charcoal may be a better choice than the "octopus" for an LBC. If I were inclined to have a drink in my car, I would probably get one. Ron L _______________________________________________ From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Apr 2 07:22:27 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 10:22:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Main Seal In-Reply-To: <6EAEC6B7-2602-4231-8E50-5ACC57044507@cox.net> Message-ID: <20100402142227.SF8I9.529015.root@cdptpa-web01-z02> Folks, there is so much blame leveled at the rear main seal but it seems that it's all directed at the Crank Scroll but not at the other potential leak paths which result in oil dripping from the rear of the pan. The bearing housing sides can cause a leak if not properly sealed, of course the pan itself as well as the valve cover can all look like it's the rear main seal leaking because that's where it's dripping. I've taken my fair share of these engines apart and looked closely at the back of the block for signs of the scroll seal leaking and almost without exception there is very little evidence of that leaking. Before pulling the engine I'd be looking for any and all other sources and fix those first. Also as someone else has mentioned be sure that there is not excessive pressure building in the engine because the breather is blocked. JVV ---- "William C. Quincy" wrote: > Greetings Fellow Listers, > > Can a leaking rear main seal be repaired with the engine still in the > car? > > Bill Quincy > Wichita, Ks. > TR3A TS69623LO > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 08:14:16 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 08:14:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders In-Reply-To: <008701cad20f$4fe41310$efac3930$@net> References: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F503FFE5@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> <008701cad20f$4fe41310$efac3930$@net> Message-ID: > i would be very interested to see what you fellow TR3 owners have done to > hold your tea or coffee cups while you drive... I just use an old wooden cheese box that otherwise resides in the boot for misc stuff. It is fully adjustable as there is an inverted tuna can under the coffee cup that can be turned right-side up if I get a Vende or Grande instead of my usual Tall. http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Cup%20Holder.JPG Geo From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Apr 2 08:24:17 2010 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 15:24:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders In-Reply-To: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] From michael.stenhouse at c2i.net Fri Apr 2 09:24:54 2010 From: michael.stenhouse at c2i.net (STEN) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 18:24:54 +0200 Subject: [TR] Triumph World Availability (USA) In-Reply-To: <798525.18402.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <798525.18402.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000901cad281$07924100$16b6c300$@stenhouse@c2i.net> Hi Doug, You could try asking these people. http://www.triumph-world.co.uk/ Happy Easter folks. Cheers, Michael in Norway. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Mitchell Sent: 31. mars 2010 20:06 To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Triumph World Availability (USA) Triumphant Ones, I haven't been able to get Triumph World at my favourite location (Borders) for a while now. Whenever I check the local Barnes & Noble, I don't see it there either. Little British Car Co. used to carry it as well as an another store. They have told me that they either had problems dealing with the publisher or they didn't sell enough to carry it. Does anyone have any other source for TW? Or does everyone have a subscription? Or have you given up on reading it since the editorial staff changed a couple of years ago? Thanks for any suggestions. If there are enough people interested, I can contact Borders and B&N about getting it on their shelves again. Doug -- dmitchel at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/michael.stenhouse at c2i.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 2 10:47:52 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 12:47:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] search site Message-ID: hi, all. sorry for this interruption . . . someone sent out a link to a site that searches other for sale kinds of sites and puts it together so you can search craigslist, ebay, autotrader, etc all at once. anyone know what that is? From tdskip at yahoo.com Fri Apr 2 12:27:11 2010 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 12:27:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR search site In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <151445.49094.qm@web55601.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Jaxed.com will handle eBay and Craigslist. Subject: [TR] search site hi, all. sorry for this interruption . . . someone sent out a link to a site that searches other for sale kinds of sites and puts it together so you can search craigslist, ebay, autotrader, etc all at once. anyone know what that is? ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 127 **************************************** From rpeglow at optonline.net Fri Apr 2 17:18:48 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 16:18:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] search site References: Message-ID: <001001cad2c3$3b732ce0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Oliver, Here you go! http://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/mash.cgi Regards, Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14680 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From allegrorover at mac.com Fri Apr 2 13:24:12 2010 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 16:24:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Controller In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <54262676-5294-4E6D-AE9D-C2C3C58F5DB2@mac.com> Wow, that looks complicated to me not being any type of electrical wizard. What I did was purchased a thermostat switch that screws into the vertical pipe for the radiator and it works great. I purchased it from one of the British parts suppliers and also installed a manual override just in case. The vertical pipe and the thermostat controller wasn't very expensive and the pipe was even stainless. I'm not saying mine is any better, just that I needed something simple. (at least for me) Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From tr4zest at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 14:06:51 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 17:06:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Controller In-Reply-To: <54262676-5294-4E6D-AE9D-C2C3C58F5DB2@mac.com> References: <54262676-5294-4E6D-AE9D-C2C3C58F5DB2@mac.com> Message-ID: It wasn't complicated, Tony. It wasn't cheap either. However,"Join big fat red wire to fuse and then to battery" isn't hard to follow. I guess you did the relay etc? Brian On Fri, Apr 2, 2010 at 4:24 PM, Anthony Cascio wrote: > Wow, that looks complicated to me not being any type of electrical wizard. > What I did was purchased a thermostat switch that screws into the vertical > pipe for the radiator and it works great. > I purchased it from one of the British parts suppliers and also installed a > manual override just in case. > The vertical pipe and the thermostat controller wasn't very expensive and > the pipe was even stainless. > I'm not saying mine is any better, just that I needed something simple. (at > least for me) > > Tony Cascio > 58 TR3A > TS27093L > allegrorover at mac.com From peter at nosimport.com Fri Apr 2 14:28:50 2010 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 16:28:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 tea holders In-Reply-To: References: <260572.33284.qm@web113319.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F503FFE5@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> <008701cad20f$4fe41310$efac3930$@net> Message-ID: <201004021328469.SM01572@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> The ID of a roll of duct tape accommodates most beverage cans perfectly. Just lay a fresh roll on the floor, or seat, and your done... ..... AND handy! Peter C === At 10:14 AM 4/2/2010, Geo Hahn wrote: > > i would be very interested to see what you fellow TR3 owners have done to > > hold your tea or coffee cups while you drive... > >I just use an old wooden cheese box that otherwise resides in the boot >for misc stuff. From leejohn7 at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 14:58:45 2010 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 14:58:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] search site In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Try www.bringatrailer.com. Seems to bring together interesting cars from all sources. John On Fri, Apr 2, 2010 at 10:47 AM, oliver wrote: > hi, all. sorry for this interruption . . . > > someone sent out a link to a site that searches other for sale kinds of > sites > and puts it together so you can search craigslist, ebay, autotrader, etc > all > at once. > > anyone know what that is? > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Apr 2 15:52:56 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 18:52:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] First ride Message-ID: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> April 2 and I have the 3 out for its first ride of the season. This is the earliest I have ever had the 3 all ready to go. Took the afternoon off - almost 80! Started right up and then I was down to the gas station for some fresh fuel then the long way home. Ran like a top! Talked the wife into going to dinner at a diner about 20 minutes away and she said yes. Just got back. Great to have the wind in your face again after about 5 months of winter. Tomorrow should be even warmer, may have to get it out again! Bob From L1J1S at aol.com Fri Apr 2 17:10:06 2010 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 20:10:06 EDT Subject: [TR] TR-TR3 winndshield glass Message-ID: <2e175.270d20e0.38e7e15e@aol.com> hello, does anyone know of a good source to buy a windshield glass for a tr3? a direct source would even be better. larry schwartz From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Fri Apr 2 18:06:57 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 21:06:57 EDT Subject: [TR] First ride Message-ID: <409b4.1b7dcd8c.38e7eeb1@aol.com> Me too! I've been driving our TR3A since March 11; never had it out so early in the Spring! March 27 was the earliest one year, apart from that it's always been mid-April. This year on aeroscreens. What fun; I'd recommend them to anyone. No fun in the rain, but we have a '65 Volvo for rainy days. Congrats Bob on what was no doubt a storming drive! Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, ON K0A 1B0 Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Fri Apr 2 18:10:25 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 21:10:25 EDT Subject: [TR] TR-TR3 winndshield glass Message-ID: <40bfe.1fe20ee0.38e7ef81@aol.com> Hi Larry; If you can't find anyone, let me know. I spoke with someone a few years back who works for a windscreen manufacturing company and said he'd make one for me on a custom basis if I needed one. I got the feeling it would be expensive; plus I don't know where you are located and the company is about an our east of Ottawa, Ontario. Good luck! Tim Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, ON K0A 1B0 Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 2 18:17:44 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 18:17:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR-TR3 winndshield glass In-Reply-To: <2e175.270d20e0.38e7e15e@aol.com> References: <2e175.270d20e0.38e7e15e@aol.com> Message-ID: <00b001cad2cb$77048760$0301a8c0@randall> > hello, does anyone know of a good source to buy a windshield > glass for a > tr3? a direct source would even be better. Oddly enough, I researched this just the other day. TRF had the best price I found; the company that bought out the original maker wants about $30 more. www.pilkington.com/na/ I didn't bother contacting any UK suppliers, since when we went through this a few years ago, they all refused to ship less than a case of 10 to the US. Randall From trglory at verizon.net Fri Apr 2 19:20:07 2010 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 22:20:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <000b01cad2d4$2e09e2e0$8a1da8a0$@net> One of our sons invited us to Good Friday diner at his house. Michele and I took that opportunity to put the top down on the TR8 and use up some of last year's funky old gas. I have driven this car for 12 years now and it still puts a smile on my face. I have to admit though, when I had Strombergs on it the car was a very docile, well mannered daily driver. Now with the Holley, it is crude and rude and not at all enjoyable in stop and go traffic. But when you get it on the interstate, it comes into its own and runs like a thoroughbred. When I start feeding it fresh gas do you think it will be better behaved? New gas may not be immediate because the Holley gets much better gas mileage than the Strombergs....go figure. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 6:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] First ride April 2 and I have the 3 out for its first ride of the season. This is the earliest I have ever had the 3 all ready to go. Took the afternoon off - almost 80! Started right up and then I was down to the gas station for some fresh fuel then the long way home. Ran like a top! Talked the wife into going to dinner at a diner about 20 minutes away and she said yes. Just got back. Great to have the wind in your face again after about 5 months of winter. Tomorrow should be even warmer, may have to get it out again! Bob From wayne at motorcarriage.com Fri Apr 2 19:46:28 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 22:46:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Good for You! God Bless Ya! (Can we still say that?.) I think anybody that's almost 80 deserves to take the afternoon off. And if they can still get in and out of their Triumph with reasonable dexterity all the better. What's even better at that age is talking the wife into letting You take it out again ,,,,I hope I have that kind of spunk if I live that long. Cheers, Wayne Douglas, MA 64 TR4 (project) 75 TR6 (Daily Driver starting again next week) -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob" Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 6:52 PM To: Subject: [TR] First ride > April 2 and I have the 3 out for its first ride of the season. This is the > earliest I have ever had the 3 all ready to go. > > Took the afternoon off - almost 80! > > Started right up and then I was down to the gas station for some fresh > fuel > then the long way home. Ran like a top! > > Talked the wife into going to dinner at a diner about 20 minutes away and > she > said yes. > > Just got back. Great to have the wind in your face again after about 5 > months > of winter. Tomorrow should be even warmer, may have to get it out again! > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com From bjzwissler at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 19:57:52 2010 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 22:57:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gas Fill Neck O-ring Message-ID: <4BB6AEB0.9060000@gmail.com> Anyone found a suitable replacement for the O-ring sealing the gas fill cap of a TR4A (and I assume a TR4 and TR6)? The one in mine is old and dry, but its not listed as a a separate part in any of the parts manuals or catalogs. Thanks, Ben..... -- Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 From dmb993 at earthlink.net Fri Apr 2 20:06:11 2010 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 23:06:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] POR15 Message-ID: <4BB6B0A3.6060205@earthlink.net> Folks, I stripped the paint off my frame, cleaned it with POR Marine Clean, and etched it with POR Metal Ready. The Metal Ready left a streaky finish on the steel. I gave the frame a good water rinse, but I'm still concerned that there might be some remaining phosphoric acid. Do I need to be concerned? Will POR15 cover with no strange effects, fish eyes, etc? Thanks, David Brady '69 TR250 CD8124L From 60TR3A at cox.net Fri Apr 2 21:20:50 2010 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 21:20:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR-TR3 winndshield glass In-Reply-To: <2e175.270d20e0.38e7e15e@aol.com> References: <2e175.270d20e0.38e7e15e@aol.com> Message-ID: <04A3BD61-EE50-4C34-B37F-28F5849E048C@cox.net> A couple of years ago my TR3 windscreen took a direct hit from the Arizona State flower (i.e., the rock). I called my insurance company & they said no problem. The 20-somthing I was talking to could not find one of their shops that had a TR3 glass or even tell her what the cost would be. I told her the I could find a windscreen & could tell her the cost from the Moss catalog. She said OK. I asked if I had Moss send me a new windscreen would they find an approved shop to install it? She called and the shop said they could not do it. I asked if I could find someone to do it would they would pay him & she said yes. (I had put a new windscreen in my MGA many years ago & remember how much it work it was.) I found a local hobbyist (retired & working on LBCs for fun & a little extra cash) and he gave me a quote & was paid by my insurance company after he installed the glass. A long story to say Moss. John On 2 Apr, 2010, at 5:10 PM, L1J1S at aol.com wrote: > hello, does anyone know of a good source to buy a windshield glass for a > tr3? a direct source would even be better. larry schwartz > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/60tr3a at cox.net > John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From coefront at shaw.ca Sat Apr 3 05:26:30 2010 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 06:26:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Radiator & Electric fan Message-ID: I have a TR8 three core radiator for sale: and a 16" electric fan. They will also fit a TR7. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca From adcronin at ameritech.net Sat Apr 3 06:19:46 2010 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 06:19:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR-TR3 winndshield glass In-Reply-To: <40bfe.1fe20ee0.38e7ef81@aol.com> Message-ID: <386375.43707.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The Roadster Factory has tinted and clear windshields for our cars. Comes packed in Styrofoam and a wooden box. Not terribly expensive either. Regards, Dan Cronin --- On Fri, 4/2/10, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Subject: Re: [TR] TR-TR3 winndshield glass To: L1J1S at aol.com, triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 2, 2010, 9:10 PM Hi Larry; If you can't find anyone, let me know. I spoke with someone a few years back who works for a windscreen manufacturing company and said he'd make one for me on a custom basis if I needed one. I got the feeling it would be expensive; plus I don't know where you are located and the company is about an our east of Ottawa, Ontario. Good luck! Tim Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, ON K0A 1B0 Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/adcronin at ameritech.net From wayne at motorcarriage.com Sat Apr 3 06:53:21 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 09:53:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <201004030848.11692.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <201004030848.11692.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <0E1A196F10D64A6F9BF592FF9FC2F8CF@D794W231> Hi Bob, No, I understood the story, You conveyed it well. It was all me, I was goofin around. Even the part about your wife letting You take it out twice. That was tongue in cheek too! :>) Cheers, Wayne -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob" Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 8:48 AM To: "Wayne Lee" Subject: Re: [TR] First ride > On Friday 02 April 2010 10:46:28 pm you wrote: >> Good for You! God Bless Ya! (Can we still say that?.) >> >> I think anybody that's almost 80 deserves to take the afternoon off. >> And if they can still get in and out of their Triumph with reasonable >> dexterity all the better. >> >> What's even better at that age is talking the wife into letting You take >> it >> out again ,,,,I hope >> I have that kind of spunk if I live that long. >> Cheers, >> Wayne >> > > Wayne, > > I think you mis-read my post. The temperature was almost 80 not me! > > I am pushing retirement in about 1.5 years. Reached the 60 mark last > summer. > > But it was a nice day and today looks even better. > > The paint for my TR6 project arrived today so I may be able to get a coat > of > primer on. > > This has to be the earliest spring here in Central NY in my recent memory. > > Bob From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Apr 3 07:37:51 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 09:37:51 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Gas Fill Neck O-ring Message-ID: <14214765.996105.1270305471924.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net> Ben, I am out of town and don't have my parts list with me, but TRF does sell this part, I did that repair over the winter. Just give them a call. Craig Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 On Apr 3, 2010, Ben Zwissler wrote: Anyone found a suitable replacement for the O-ring sealing the gas fill cap of a TR4A (and I assume a TR4 and TR6)? The one in mine is old and dry, but its not listed as a a separate part in any of the parts manuals or catalogs. Thanks, Ben..... -- Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From michael.stenhouse at c2i.net Sat Apr 3 07:39:42 2010 From: michael.stenhouse at c2i.net (STEN) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 16:39:42 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR6 DEMISTER PARTS - CAN ANYBODY HELP Message-ID: <00f601cad33b$7fc6d9f0$7f548dd0$@stenhouse@c2i.net> Hi Folks and Happy Easter, The sun has come out today and the snow has almost all gone here in Norway. No first runs for me yet. I was wondering if anybody might be able to help me with a pair of "TUBE "Y" piece" for my 1973 TR6 demister system? It appears that these are very difficult to find. The bloke that had my TR6 in The States chose not to refit the ones that belonged to my car. Best Regards, Michael. From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Apr 3 08:10:59 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 08:10:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <0E1A196F10D64A6F9BF592FF9FC2F8CF@D794W231> References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <201004030848.11692.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <0E1A196F10D64A6F9BF592FF9FC2F8CF@D794W231> Message-ID: Well on March 1, we got both cars (TR3,TR6) out of winter "hibernation", on March 13, we drove Rosey (TR6) to West Sacramento, and participated in the St. Pat's Parade. On March 27, we drove Casper (TR3) in the April Fool's Rallye, both ventures were top down and with the lovely AnnaBelle at my side. Her Official duty is waving at the crowds, and navigating the rallye. We are getting Casper ready for the Snowball 500 Rallye the end of April, 2 days, 500 miles, from Sacramento to Lake Tahoe, and back, 95% blue line roads. So a good start for the season. >Hi Bob, > No, I understood the story, You conveyed it well. >It was all me, I was goofin around. Even the part >about your wife letting You take it out twice. That was tongue in >cheek too! :>) >Cheers, >Wayne -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Apr 3 08:49:17 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 11:49:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 prop shaft removal Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31334BA@CMS01.winhosting.local> I'm fairly convinced I have a bad U-joint in my TR6's driveline. It's aggravating that there is not an obviously bad u-joint visually, but I guess they aren't that clear until apart. It's gone from a rumble at highway until now almost unable to go faster than 5 mph without shrieking and rumble, so lucky just to get home. Since the rumbling and scraping noise is about 3-4 times faster than wheel speed, I guess it is in the prop shaft rather than after the differential. Rear hubs and diff are all new inside and left right play on shafts seems about equal. It's been too long since I did this job. Does the prop shaft come out forward or back? i.e. I have the rear of the car on ramps and have removed my exhaust system, but it's still not 100% obvious which way it comes out. I'm thinking of undoing the output flanges on the diff first so that I can spin the diff and the prop shaft and avoid having to disassemble the interior to get at the top flange bolts. Am I missing some easier way to go about this? Mark 1972 TR6 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Apr 3 10:34:48 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 13:34:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <0E1A196F10D64A6F9BF592FF9FC2F8CF@D794W231> Message-ID: <201004031334.48560.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 03 April 2010 11:10:59 am Bill wrote: > Well on March 1, we got both cars (TR3,TR6) out of winter > "hibernation", on March 13, we drove Rosey (TR6) to West Sacramento, > and participated in the St. Pat's Parade. On March 27, we drove > Casper (TR3) in the April Fool's Rallye, both ventures were top down > and with the lovely AnnaBelle at my side. Her Official duty is waving > at the crowds, and navigating the rallye. We are getting Casper ready > for the Snowball 500 Rallye the end of April, 2 days, 500 miles, from > Sacramento to Lake Tahoe, and back, 95% blue line roads. So a good > start for the season. > Bill, When you are in Lake Tahoe say hello to daughter #2. She lives in South Lake Tahoe and works at Barton Hospital. I have traveled 50 from Sacramento to Tahoe a number of times during visits to Lake Tahoe. It is a fun ride once you get out of Placerville. My daughter reported about 2 feet of new snow at her house last week. It should be melted by the end of April, but on one visit in the middle of April it snowed and there was a high of 35 for the week! Also hit a blizzard on our way from Sacramento to Tahoe about 1:00AM way up the mountain. Bob From npaul72464 at aol.com Sat Apr 3 10:37:59 2010 From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 13:37:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] valve adjuatment problem In-Reply-To: <0E1A196F10D64A6F9BF592FF9FC2F8CF@D794W231> References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net><201004030848.11692.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <0E1A196F10D64A6F9BF592FF9FC2F8CF@D794W231> Message-ID: <8CCA16B89BDFB81-1BDC-4E0B9@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Hi All, I'm in the midst of adjusting the valves on my 1958 TR3A and have run into a snag. They all adjusted fine till I got to #8 where there is no gap and no turning of the screw will give me any. I checked compression (for some reason) and there's 150 PSI in all 4 cylinders. I pulled the rocker shaft and the rocker and push rod look normal compared with all the others. I put a straight edge across all the valve springs and they're all the same height. Any insights would be much appreciated. Ned Paulsen Webster, NY _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/npaul72464 at aol.com From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Apr 3 10:54:56 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 12:54:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 prop shaft removal In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31334BA@CMS01.winhostin g.local> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31334BA@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <20100403185448.6973D187643@autox.team.net> It should come out toward the rear of the car. With diff flange unbolted and trans flange unbolted it shouldn't be to tough to snake toward the rear. I don't recall if the trans flange is accessible from under the car, but it seems like it should be. It's certainly more accessible with the trans cover removed, but actually removing the trans cover is a bit of a chore. - Tony Drews At 10:49 AM 4/3/2010, Mark Hooper wrote: >I'm fairly convinced I have a bad U-joint in my TR6's driveline. It's >aggravating that there is not an obviously bad u-joint visually, but I guess >they aren't that clear until apart. It's gone from a rumble at highway until >now almost unable to go faster than 5 mph without shrieking and rumble, so >lucky just to get home. Since the rumbling and scraping noise is about 3-4 >times faster than wheel speed, I guess it is in the prop shaft rather than >after the differential. Rear hubs and diff are all new inside and left right >play on shafts seems about equal. > >It's been too long since I did this job. Does the prop shaft come out forward >or back? i.e. I have the rear of the car on ramps and have removed my exhaust >system, but it's still not 100% obvious which way it comes out. > >I'm thinking of undoing the output flanges on the diff first so that I can >spin the diff and the prop shaft and avoid having to disassemble the interior >to get at the top flange bolts. > >Am I missing some easier way to go about this? > >Mark >1972 TR6 > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Apr 3 12:13:20 2010 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 12:13:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: I think everyone must be very confused. I have been having a great time driving my TR3 (with the top & side curtains stored under a bed in the house) for the past 5 months. In a month or two, I will be not be driving it very much at the temperatures creep up and remain above 110F/43C for 4 months. My bald head cannot take the sun!!! :-) John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Apr 3 13:50:15 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 15:50:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] valve adjuatment problem In-Reply-To: <8CCA16B89BDFB81-1BDC-4E0B9@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <201004030848.11692.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <0E1A196F10D64A6F9BF592FF9FC2F8CF@D794W231> <8CCA16B89BDFB81-1BDC-4E0B9@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20100403214957.D710F187643@autox.team.net> I'm sorry to say that I can't think of any scenario that would cause that problem that doesn't involve pulling at least the head. It sounds to me like either something is wrong with the cam / tappet or the valve is recessing deeply in to the head or the head of the valve is ready to come off. The straightedge across the valves seems to largely rule out the last two scenarios. Best case is that something fell into the tappet, the pushrod is sitting on top of it, and it can easily be removed without further disassembly. - Tony Drews At 12:37 PM 4/3/2010, npaul72464 at aol.com wrote: > Hi All, > >I'm in the midst of adjusting the valves on my 1958 TR3A and have run into a >snag. They all adjusted fine till I got to #8 where there is no gap and no >turning of the screw will give me any. I checked compression (for some >reason) and there's 150 PSI in all 4 cylinders. I pulled the rocker shaft and >the rocker and push rod look normal compared with all the others. I put a >straight edge across all the valve springs and they're all the same height. > >Any insights would be much appreciated. > >Ned Paulsen >Webster, NY From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 3 15:03:39 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 15:03:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <023e01cad379$84ce3310$0301a8c0@randall> > My bald head cannot take the sun!!! :-) I'm not bald, but I made a "bikini" top for just that reason, when I venture into the desert during the summer. It's just a standard rag top, with all the windows cut out. Keeps the sun off, but blocks very little of the wind. Started with a used top that had cloudy/cracked plastic, so the cost was almost nothing. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 3 15:22:17 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 15:22:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] valve adjuatment problem In-Reply-To: <8CCA16B89BDFB81-1BDC-4E0B9@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net><201004030848.11692.yellowtr@adelphia.net><0E1A196F10D64A6F9BF592FF9FC2F8CF@D794W231> <8CCA16B89BDFB81-1BDC-4E0B9@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <024c01cad37c$1f2abb20$0301a8c0@randall> > I put a > straight edge across all the valve springs and they're all > the same height. > > Any insights would be much appreciated. My next step would be to remove the pushrod for #8 and inspect it. The lower end may be coming apart and holding it higher than it should. Compare it to #7, they should be the same length. You'll have to remove the rocker shaft first, of course, then pull the pushrod up just slightly and spin it in your fingers until it comes free of the lifter. Sometimes the suction of the oil puddled in the lifter is enough to lift the lifter from it's bore, which would require pulling the head to correct. Randall From tr4zest at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 15:32:56 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 18:32:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valve adjustment problem Message-ID: Ned, If the valve shaft tips are all the same height, and the rockers are uniform and all working on the same axis (which they are) then you should focus on the adjuster and pushrod. Have you adjusted the valves before and was all normal then? Is the top of that rocker's pushrod, when at it's highest at the same height as the other pushrods when they are uppermost? If the levels are not even, could something have fallen into the cam follower to raise the rod up? Unlikely I know. Maybe an odd-length pushrod? Is the adjuster screw moving along its thread in the rocker when you turn it, or could its threads be buggered? Take the adjuster out completely and compare with another in your rocker assembly and see if there are any dissimilarities. Can't see much else to go for... Brian From mark at bradakis.com Sat Apr 3 15:36:39 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 16:36:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <4BB7C2F7.2040205@bradakis.com> Somebody is yanking on somebody's muffler trunnions. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Sat Apr 3 15:59:32 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 16:59:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] valve adjuatment problem In-Reply-To: <8CCA16B89BDFB81-1BDC-4E0B9@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net><201004030848.11692.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <0E1A196F10D64A6F9BF592FF9FC2F8CF@D794W231> <8CCA16B89BDFB81-1BDC-4E0B9@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BB7C854.5090504@bradakis.com> npaul72464 at aol.com wrote: > Hi All, > > I'm in the midst of adjusting the valves on my 1958 TR3A and have run into a > snag. They all adjusted fine till I got to #8 where there is no gap and no > turning of the screw will give me any. I checked compression (for some > reason) and there's 150 PSI in all 4 cylinders. I pulled the rocker shaft and > the rocker and push rod look normal compared with all the others. I put a > straight edge across all the valve springs and they're all the same height. > > With the rocker assembly off the engine, did you turn the engine over a few revolutions by hand? Did the offending pushrod move as you think it should have? mjb. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 16:29:14 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 16:29:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <4BB7C2F7.2040205@bradakis.com> References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <4BB7C2F7.2040205@bradakis.com> Message-ID: On 4/3/10, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Somebody is yanking on somebody's muffler trunnions. > Indeed. And the thought of Randall in a bikini top is an image I'm trying to get out of my head. From mark at bradakis.com Sat Apr 3 17:21:20 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 18:21:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <4BB7C2F7.2040205@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4BB7DB80.4030903@bradakis.com> > Indeed. And the thought of Randall in a bikini top is an image I'm > trying to get out of my head. > > Don't worry, the memory will be gone by the time you hit 80. But if you are having U joint problems and can't get it up to 65, that's different. mjb. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 3 17:27:31 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 17:27:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net><4BB7C2F7.2040205@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <027401cad38d$9ddc2420$0301a8c0@randall> > Indeed. And the thought of Randall in a bikini top is an image I'm > trying to get out of my head. HEY!! I ... er, uh ... Nevermind ! From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Apr 3 17:36:50 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 20:36:50 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 prop shaft removal Message-ID: <428e5.3937c74d.38e93922@cs.com> In a message dated 4/3/2010 11:32:51 AM Central Daylight Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: > I'm fairly convinced I have a bad U-joint in my TR6's driveline. It's > aggravating that there is not an obviously bad u-joint visually, but I > guess > they aren't that clear until apart. It's gone from a rumble at highway > until > now almost unable to go faster than 5 mph without shrieking and rumble, so > lucky just to get home. Since the rumbling and scraping noise is about 3-4 > times faster than wheel speed, I guess it is in the prop shaft rather than > after the differential. Rear hubs and diff are all new inside and left > right > play on shafts seems about equal. > > It's been too long since I did this job. Does the prop shaft come out > forward > or back? i.e. I have the rear of the car on ramps and have removed my > exhaust > system, but it's still not 100% obvious which way it comes out. > > I'm thinking of undoing the output flanges on the diff first so that I can > spin the diff and the prop shaft and avoid having to disassemble the > interior > to get at the top flange bolts. > > Am I missing some easier way to go about this? > Hi, Mark. It is rare to be able to determine a bad U-joint without removing the shaft from the car. Since you have a 72 it is likley you can remove the shaft easily from the car. it should easily come out toward the front. The later models with the J-type overdrive are much more problematic. The flange bolts are almost inaccessible and there is no room for removal of the shaft. Let's hope you car is the former, not the latter. Dave From dmb993 at earthlink.net Sat Apr 3 18:17:54 2010 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 21:17:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] POR15 In-Reply-To: <02676161A5704B5EBE6777ADAD76B900@DaveLaptop> References: <4BB6B0A3.6060205@earthlink.net> <02676161A5704B5EBE6777ADAD76B900@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <4BB7E8C2.3070208@earthlink.net> Thanks everyone for your thoughtful replies. I should have mentioned that I did wipe the frame down with Lacquer thinner too. I'll give it one final wipe with Prep-Sol and then I'll apply POR15. Thanks, David Brady '68 TR250, CD8124L From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Apr 3 18:25:46 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 20:25:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] valve adjuatment problem In-Reply-To: <8CCA16B89BDFB81-1BDC-4E0B9@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> References: <201004021852.56379.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <201004030848.11692.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <0E1A196F10D64A6F9BF592FF9FC2F8CF@D794W231> <8CCA16B89BDFB81-1BDC-4E0B9@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20100404022529.D3A64187643@autox.team.net> One basic thing I forgot to ask - you ARE checking the #8 gap when the #1 valve is open all the way, right? Also, on the "I've pulled the tappet out of the bore" problem - I have found that it may be possible to work it back in the bore with a small magnet on a slender pole and another long skinny thing like, say, a coat hanger. If you can get the magnet to stick into the bottom of the tappet and play with it until it goes back into the bore, then you can stick the coat hanger down the hole to hold it in place and pull the magnet out. - Tony Drews At 12:37 PM 4/3/2010, npaul72464 at aol.com wrote: > Hi All, > >I'm in the midst of adjusting the valves on my 1958 TR3A and have run into a >snag. They all adjusted fine till I got to #8 where there is no gap and no >turning of the screw will give me any. I checked compression (for some >reason) and there's 150 PSI in all 4 cylinders. I pulled the rocker shaft and >the rocker and push rod look normal compared with all the others. I put a >straight edge across all the valve springs and they're all the same height. > >Any insights would be much appreciated. > >Ned Paulsen >Webster, NY > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/npaul72464 at aol.com > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From triumphstag at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 19:07:35 2010 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 19:07:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 and 2 jags on flatbed truck at junction of 101 and 156 at the auto breakers. Message-ID: On a trip back from Monterey today via highway 156 and 101. I saw a truck with a GT6 and 2 old jags on it. The truck was next to the auto breaker just by this junctions. Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From tr6parts at charter.net Sat Apr 3 19:43:11 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 22:43:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 transmission Message-ID: <32DFC20BD25946988C8A10C0551CA948@Alan> My friend is rebuilding a tr3 transmission. The trans has open needle bearings. Can the TR3b later caged bearings be subsituted? Thanks, Al From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 20:57:41 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 20:57:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 and 2 jags on flatbed truck at junction of 101 and 156 at the auto breakers. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BB80E35.4000404@gmail.com> On 4/3/10 7:07 PM, sujit roy wrote: > On a trip back from Monterey today via highway 156 and 101. I saw a truck > with a GT6 and 2 old jags on it. The truck was next to the auto breaker just > by this junctions. > Plus there is a red Jensen Healey along side the truck. They are being displayed for sale instead of being crushed. The Jags are the saloon cars that were between the Mk 2 and the XJ6. They are about 10 minutes from my house. Teriann From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Apr 3 21:56:23 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 23:56:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 transmission In-Reply-To: <32DFC20BD25946988C8A10C0551CA948@Alan> References: <32DFC20BD25946988C8A10C0551CA948@Alan> Message-ID: <20100404055604.B01D4187643@autox.team.net> If I'm remembering the bearings correctly, the answer is NO. I prefer the non-caged bearing. Fewer but bigger rollers. My trans is a TR-6 with a conglomeration of various years parts inside. I originally had a bushing that was the dimension of the early non-caged bearing. The output shaft has a different nose diameter (larger) for the caged bearing. - Tony Drews At 09:43 PM 4/3/2010, Al Salvatore wrote: >My friend is rebuilding a tr3 transmission. > >The trans has open needle bearings. Can the TR3b later caged bearings be >subsituted? > >Thanks, > >Al From dkspence at telus.net Sat Apr 3 22:52:41 2010 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 23:52:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net> Get a hat! On 3-Apr-10, at 10:57 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net> > Date: April 3, 2010 1:13:20 PM MDT (CA) > To: Triumph car discussion Sports > Subject: Re: [TR] First ride > > > I think everyone must be very confused. I have been having a great > time > driving my TR3 (with the top & side curtains stored under a bed in > the house) > for the past 5 months. In a month or two, I will be not be driving > it very > much at the temperatures creep up and remain above 110F/43C for 4 > months. My > bald head cannot take the sun!!! :-) > > John > > John A. Wise > Glendale, AZ From jgillis at tcd.ie Sun Apr 4 03:12:47 2010 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 10:12:47 +0100 Subject: [TR] Valve timing Message-ID: <8EFC2E83-4BF7-4776-B20E-D7F70E0F0B67@tcd.ie> Sorry for he second valve question on the list, how possible is it to check the valve timing with a built up and in place engine, that wont start, frustration has me now checking if i have problem, I have gone through the usual, spark,fuel etc.. it did run briefly but roughly but now nothing John From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sun Apr 4 04:59:52 2010 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 03:59:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 76 tr6 for sale Message-ID: <209565.95969.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Need to sell my 6 no longer have a garage for it i'm in the NY area email for details if interested From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Apr 4 05:26:35 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 07:26:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 transmission References: <32DFC20BD25946988C8A10C0551CA948@Alan> Message-ID: <5A517946031D478B96CB8899ED216D39@userb38463fba5> A TR3 transmission is non-syncro first gear and most likely the TR3B that you are referring to is the fully synco'd transmission. That would make the cluster gears different and likely the bearings not interchangeable. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Salvatore" To: Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 10:43 PM Subject: [TR] tr3 transmission > My friend is rebuilding a tr3 transmission. > > The trans has open needle bearings. Can the TR3b later caged bearings be > subsituted? > > Thanks, > > Al > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Apr 4 06:38:39 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 08:38:39 EDT Subject: [TR] First ride Message-ID: <577aa.2b844f67.38e9e24f@cs.com> Ever notice how these Arizonites tend to strut around cocky all winter long then they head under ground about April not to be seen until september? Dave from the land of four seasons. And no rattlesnakes. Or scorpions. In a message dated 4/4/2010 1:20:18 AM Central Daylight Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: > Get a hat! > > > On 3-Apr-10, at 10:57 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > >From: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net> > >Date: April 3, 2010 1:13:20 PM MDT (CA) > >To: Triumph car discussion Sports > >Subject: Re: [TR] First ride > > > > > >I think everyone must be very confused. I have been having a great > >time > >driving my TR3 (with the top &side curtains stored under a bed in > >the house) > >for the past 5 months. In a month or two, I will be not be driving > >it very > >much at the temperatures creep up and remain above 110F/43C for 4 > >months. My > >bald head cannot take the sun!!! :-) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Apr 4 07:02:20 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 09:02:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valve timing In-Reply-To: <8EFC2E83-4BF7-4776-B20E-D7F70E0F0B67@tcd.ie> References: <8EFC2E83-4BF7-4776-B20E-D7F70E0F0B67@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <201004040902.20733.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 04 April 2010 05:12:47 am John Gillis wrote: > Sorry for he second valve question on the list, how possible is it to check > the valve timing with a built up and in place engine, that wont start, > frustration has me now checking if i have problem, I have gone through the > usual, spark,fuel etc.. it did run briefly but roughly but now nothing > John > John, I don't have the specs in front of me but what you can do is take the valve cover off and remove the spark plugs and then rotate the engine by hand using the fan towards #1 intake cycle towards TDC. The intake valve should start opening sometime just before TDC. My TR6 begins to put pressure on the valve at 18 degrees BTDC. If that is ok then check the spark timing. I use the static method to set the points at TDC then advance the timing 4 degrees. I then adjust by ear once I get a good idle. Another thing that can mess things up is that the distributor is 180 degrees off. I did this on my TR4. Again while checking out the intake valve opening continue to rotate the engine until it is at TDC and firing on #1. Then check the orientation of the rotor. It should be at #1 on the cap. If not follow the instructions in the manual to set the distributor drive. Bob From 60TR3A at cox.net Sun Apr 4 07:33:06 2010 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 06:33:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net> References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net> Message-ID: <4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net> My problem is my ears are so big, a hat does not really help! :-) John On 3 Apr, 2010, at 10:52 PM, Don wrote: > Get a hat! > > > On 3-Apr-10, at 10:57 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > >> From: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net> >> Date: April 3, 2010 1:13:20 PM MDT (CA) >> To: Triumph car discussion Sports >> Subject: Re: [TR] First ride >> >> >> I think everyone must be very confused. I have been having a great >> time >> driving my TR3 (with the top & side curtains stored under a bed in >> the house) >> for the past 5 months. In a month or two, I will be not be driving >> it very >> much at the temperatures creep up and remain above 110F/43C for 4 >> months. My >> bald head cannot take the sun!!! :-) >> >> John >> >> John A. Wise >> Glendale, AZ > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/60tr3a at cox.net > John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Apr 4 08:38:32 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 10:38:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust system question In-Reply-To: <4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net> References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net> <4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net> Message-ID: <1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC> I think I know the answer but.... Just finished installing the exhaust system on the '3. The problem is that the rear edge of the front muffler is resting up against the rear diff housing. Is this normal? I think I am going to have to un-install and trim about 1" off the front of that pipe so that it clears - otherwise it will vibrate a hole. Not sure how easy it will be to separate - considering how difficult it was to put them together. Guess I could see if it will slide further in but that may make disassembly even more difficult. C Progress is moving along. Other than the above issue all that is left before body back on are the fuel/brake lines. Might get the neighbors over this afternoon for a body raising/lowering..... Carl From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 09:05:46 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 08:05:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 and 2 jags on flatbed truck at junction of 101 and 156 at the auto breakers. In-Reply-To: <486542.3727.qm@web59704.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <4BB80E35.4000404@gmail.com> <486542.3727.qm@web59704.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BB8AACA.602@gmail.com> On 4/3/10 10:25 PM, P Caffrey wrote: > Nice....I love the XKE series, but none on the truck I suppose. Sorry saloons only. Though we could always dream. Had I spied a Jag Mk IV it would have been on its way to my house instantly. But there is a GT6 & Jensen Healey sitting there for sale. Teriann From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 4 09:26:03 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 08:26:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Valve timing In-Reply-To: <8EFC2E83-4BF7-4776-B20E-D7F70E0F0B67@tcd.ie> References: <8EFC2E83-4BF7-4776-B20E-D7F70E0F0B67@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <034301cad40b$23b602a0$0301a8c0@randall> > Sorry for he second valve question on the list, how possible > is it to check > the valve timing with a built up and in place engine, that wont start, > frustration has me now checking if i have problem, I have > gone through the > usual, spark,fuel etc.. it did run briefly but roughly but now nothing With #1 piston at TDC and ready to fire (rotor pointing to #1 position), both valves on #4 should be open by the same amount. A simple visual check is plenty to see that the cam timing is close enough to run, although of course there are more accurate ways to check. I would also confirm that the piston position matches the mark on the front pulley. For just checking that it's close enough to run, you can look down the plug hole or use a piece of steel wire as a probe. I'd also suggest checking yet again that you have spark at the plugs. The sequence of "ran rough, now won't start" sounds suspiciously like a rotor or coil failure. But perhaps that's just because I've been fighting high tension problems myself Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 4 10:20:34 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 09:20:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust system question In-Reply-To: <1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC> References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net><4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net> <1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC> Message-ID: <038301cad412$c19ca990$0301a8c0@randall> > The problem is that > the rear edge of the front muffler is resting up against the > rear diff housing. It has to not only not touch; but leave some clearance for axle movement. Personally, I would just tap the pipes farther together. It will be somewhere between PITA and impossible to separate that joint later on, anyway. Fortunately, on a TR3 there is little reason to do so. Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 10:22:43 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 09:22:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust system question In-Reply-To: <1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC> References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net> <4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net> <1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC> Message-ID: On 4/4/10, Carl TR wrote: > Just finished installing the exhaust system on the '3. The problem is that > the rear edge of the front muffler is resting up against the rear diff > housing. Is this normal? I have found that not all mufflers are the same. Some suppliers have a (forward) muffler that is several inches longer than others. You may have a longer variety which is fouling with the diff. Not sure which length is correct, but the shorter one (e.g. Falcon S/S) is a better fit IMO. Geo From jgillis at tcd.ie Sun Apr 4 11:24:22 2010 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 18:24:22 +0100 Subject: [TR] valve timing update Message-ID: Thanks all, it does seem ok, I do remember during the re-build adjusting the timing slightly on recommendation by inverting the sprocket or some such maneuver. Anyhow I went back to basics and came across a problem I listed before, I got it running, roughly, but while running by pulling No2 lead off the plug and holding it close the engine ran much smoother, I can't remember what this is an indication of, put I changed the plug lead and lead on2 and began to run better, did ignition timing and mixture again and bruum smooth as you like. Of course I am back to a previous problem now with quite a flow of oil streaming down between the engine and box, me thinks crank seal, it does not appear to be the sump and is definitely not the head, engine out?????. I also noticed while running some oil coming out around one of the front head studs, any thoughts??? Maybe I should accept I'm not good at engine rebuilds and leave it to the experts, the problem is they are few and far between here in Ireland. Thanks for the support and help John From npaul72464 at aol.com Sun Apr 4 11:35:06 2010 From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 13:35:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust system question In-Reply-To: References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net><4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net><1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC> Message-ID: <8CCA2344CD54652-12E8-1C43D@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com> I concur. I tried two exhaust systems on my TR3 & neither nor my mechanic could make them fit. Finally put the Falcon SS on and it fit fine and will last forever. Ned Paulsen -----Original Message----- From: Geo Hahn To: Carl TR Cc: triumph list Sent: Sun, Apr 4, 2010 12:22 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 exhaust system question On 4/4/10, Carl TR wrote: > Just finished installing the exhaust system on the '3. The problem is that > the rear edge of the front muffler is resting up against the rear diff > housing. Is this normal? I have found that not all mufflers are the same. Some suppliers have a (forward) muffler that is several inches longer than others. You may have a longer variety which is fouling with the diff. Not sure which length is correct, but the shorter one (e.g. Falcon S/S) is a better fit IMO. Geo _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/npaul72464 at aol.com From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Apr 4 11:45:30 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:45:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator on the TR250 References: <0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall> <6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <5CF2C3E5A77B45799D0AF83FD07524B2@Edscomputer> List, A couple of comments on the Bosch (Ford Fiesta) alternator: 1. The TR250's adjusment bracket interfered with the alternator fan and had to be subjected to modification by the bench grinder. 2. The clamping bolt required, of course, was metric. Another trip to the local FLAPS is you don't have one lying around. 3. The pulley width is most suitable for a 1/2" belt as used on later TR6s. The TR250 and early sixes use a 3/8" wide belt. I used a 3/8" wide belt which worked out O.K. The alternator didn't seem to mind the slight increase in speed and the belt did not rest in the bottom of the groove. 4. I never did find a proper single connector, with or without a pigtail, so used 3 individual lugs from my Lucas stuff. The 3/8" female connector is the hardest to find. No local auto parts store or Radio Shack had one. 5. My "first ride" was from Pittsburgh to Savannah, over 700 miles, with rain requiring headlamps and wiper in South Carolina, so I'm glad I did the conversion. Ed Woods From leejohn7 at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 12:12:33 2010 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:12:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] oil seal update needed In-Reply-To: <88D74C44869F4A77A4C66EA8F7078AD3@CARROOM> References: <256277.60628.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <88D74C44869F4A77A4C66EA8F7078AD3@CARROOM> Message-ID: I second Bob's experience with Greg Solow's seal. My Tr4 is now virtually dry at the rear seal after a few hundred miles back on the road. John Howard On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 8:30 PM, wrote: > Gary; > I did the Racetoration seal conversion when it first came out and it > leaks worst than the scroll ever did. Last year I rebuilt another engine > and > used the modified scroll that Greg Solow sells and the engine does not leak > a drop. His modification basically is to remachine the scroll to reduce the > clearance from .012 across the dia to .006. It is cheaper than the > conversions and does not require any modification to the crank or block. > > After first rebuilding the engine I did have a problem with oil leaking > and I though it was the new scroll seal but using some ultra violet oil dye > I traced the problem to the oil pan. I had the engine line bored but did > not > ask them to surface the bottom of the block with the caps in place. This > resulted in a .010 gap at the rear main cap and I found that the gaskets > that come in the Payne kit could not seal that big a gap. I made my own > gasket using NAPA's rubberized cork gasket material and it sealed the pan > up > nicely. So nicely that I went back and used it on the timing chain cover > and > valve cover. > Must say it is nice to be able to park the car anywhere I want in the > driveway or garage and not worry about stains. > > Bob Nogueira > > -----Original Message----- > > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger > > Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 12:24 PM > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: [TR] oil seal update needed > > > > > > I've been reading about rear crank main oil seal fixes on > > tr-3's for some time but the last posts were confusing to me > > (not difficult) lol. I wasn't aware that the specs were > > wrong for the crank re-grind ect....... What are the correct > > fixes/grind for the crank? Which technical articles are the > > best to follow? > > > > thanks! > > gary n. > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Apr 4 14:21:23 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 16:21:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Body repair Message-ID: I was half watching Muscle Car TV on Spike this morning while reading the paper. They were working on a early 60's Chevy. They were Tig welding up some pin holes with some special rod. I wasn't paying close enough attention to catch what they were using. Anybody see what they were using? Marty _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 4 14:23:26 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:23:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator on the TR250 In-Reply-To: <5CF2C3E5A77B45799D0AF83FD07524B2@Edscomputer> References: <0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall><6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer> <5CF2C3E5A77B45799D0AF83FD07524B2@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <03d201cad434$af2c3ba0$0301a8c0@randall> > 3. The pulley width is most suitable for a 1/2" belt as used > on later TR6s. The ones I've bought have come without pulleys. For a friend's TR6, his original pulley went on perfectly; I haven't completed the conversion on a Stag yet. > 4. I never did find a proper single connector, with or > without a pigtail, Does Moss no longer carry them ? > The 3/8" female connector is the hardest to find. Where did you find them? Later TR3A through TR4A also use this connector and I've only got a few of them left. > so I'm glad I did the conversion. Good! Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 4 14:50:29 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:50:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] valve timing update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03e001cad438$769f02f0$0301a8c0@randall> > Of course I am back to a previous problem now with quite a flow of oil > streaming down between the engine and box, me thinks crank > seal, it does not > appear to be the sump and is definitely not the head, engine > out?????. Not likely to be the seal, unless you forgot to install it or some such. If you are sure it's not the hex-head plug in the back corner of the head, I would suspect the plug in the end of the oil galley, or perhaps the one in the camshaft bore. Unfortunately the remedy is the same. > I also > noticed while running some oil coming out around one of the > front head studs, any thoughts??? Most likely some left over oil that got trapped in the bore for the stud. If so, it will stop soon. Otherwise I think it has to be a leak from the rocker cover or similar, as there is no place for oil to leak into the stud area. Randall From tr4zest at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 15:39:28 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 17:39:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] First Ride Message-ID: You know what they say about big ears - get a hat with a brim! Brian From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Apr 4 18:56:36 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 20:56:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust system question In-Reply-To: <8CCA2344CD54652-12E8-1C43D@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com> References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net><4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net><1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC> <8CCA2344CD54652-12E8-1C43D@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: It is a Falcon set. I shortened the pipe 1 1/2" and the front muffler has 1/4" clearance at the front at the chassis and about 1/2" at the rear. Best I could do. Thanks to all for your suggestions and assistance. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: npaul72464 at aol.com To: ahwahneetr at gmail.com ; cfmtr3a at verizon.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 1:35 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 exhaust system question I concur. I tried two exhaust systems on my TR3 & neither nor my mechanic could make them fit. Finally put the Falcon SS on and it fit fine and will last forever. Ned Paulsen -----Original Message----- From: Geo Hahn To: Carl TR Cc: triumph list Sent: Sun, Apr 4, 2010 12:22 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 exhaust system question On 4/4/10, Carl TR wrote: > Just finished installing the exhaust system on the '3. The problem is that > the rear edge of the front muffler is resting up against the rear diff > housing. Is this normal? I have found that not all mufflers are the same. Some suppliers have a (forward) muffler that is several inches longer than others. You may have a longer variety which is fouling with the diff. Not sure which length is correct, but the shorter one (e.g. Falcon S/S) is a better fit IMO. Geo _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/npaul72464 at aol.com From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Apr 4 19:01:46 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 21:01:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator on the TR250 References: <0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall><6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer><5CF2C3E5A77B45799D0AF83FD07524B2@Edscomputer> <03d201cad434$af2c3ba0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Randall and List Subject: Re: [TR] Bosch Alternator on the TR250 >> 3. The pulley width is most suitable for a 1/2" belt as used >> on later TR6s. > > The ones I've bought have come without pulleys. For a friend's TR6, his > original pulley went on perfectly; I haven't completed the conversion on a > Stag yet. I figured the Bosch shaft was a metric size. Never tried to fit the original TR250 pulley. This was the night before departure! > >> 4. I never did find a proper single connector, with or >> without a pigtail, Moss has a kit which TRF also had. Got one from TRF the day before. Looked like more work than to simply fit individual connectors. So, time being and issue, I went with individual connectors. > > Does Moss no longer carry them ? See above > >> The 3/8" female connector is the hardest to find. > > Where did you find them? Later TR3A through TR4A also use this connector > and I've only got a few of them left. In a rare moment, I remembered that I had a number of Lucas connectors of the proper size. Probably from use on a later TR3 generator way back in the very dim past. I believe British Wiring still has them. > >> so I'm glad I did the conversion. But then, a rebuilt Lucas unit would have worked well too. There is/was no additional electrical load on this car, just original equipment. The Lucas rebuilt I got from AutoZone last year for an MGB was 40 dollars cheaper than the Bosch and also with a "lifetime" guarantee! > > Good! It was a great trip. Left the TR250 with its owner in Jacksonville, FL which has freed up one garage space. Ed > > Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Apr 4 19:06:05 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 21:06:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake system question In-Reply-To: <8CCA2344CD54652-12E8-1C43D@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com> References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net><4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net><1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC> <8CCA2344CD54652-12E8-1C43D@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6BAFD90831FD457AAE1166C742EB139A@CarlPC> On to the next set of questions. :^) I have the 5-way connection; the brake light switch and a questionable restrictor valve - a part that is no longer available. What is its purpose and how will I tell if it is working. Also, what is the routing of the brake pipe from the 5-way to the Master Cylinder. I know it goes up and across the firewall but I am at a quandary of how it travels. I won't be installing this one until the body is back on the chassis. I have installed all of the other pipes (except the ones at the master cylinder) Didn't get to the fuel lines. The day went too fast. Thanks again for the all of the wisdom of the collective... Carl Almost back on schedule - about one week behind. From fishplate at charter.net Sun Apr 4 19:32:57 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 21:32:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bushing replacement Message-ID: <1dYM1e00a5K6Zm805dYUye@charter.net> I'm rebuilding the front suspension on my 75 TR6. Before I just bolt everything up, it seems like lubricating the rubber bushings with something will make assembly and settling easier and more even. What is the collective wisdom regarding rubber bushing lubrication? I have an idea, but want to check with the group as well... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 19:36:28 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 18:36:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator on the TR250 In-Reply-To: <03d201cad434$af2c3ba0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall> <6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer> <5CF2C3E5A77B45799D0AF83FD07524B2@Edscomputer> <03d201cad434$af2c3ba0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: On 4/4/10, Randall wrote: > >> The 3/8" female connector is the hardest to find. > > Where did you find them? Is this it? http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=161-580&WebCatalogID=0 Or do you mean where did he find them locally? From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Apr 4 19:39:08 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 21:39:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radio/Tape Player Message-ID: <35C1E7164B8B482A867386297D84A5EC@Scott> As I continue to get my 70 TR6 ready for the driving season (I've had 2 good drives already), my radio/tape player has stopped working. The clock is still on but I can get nothing from the radio or the tape player. When I turn it on, there is no station numbers coming up on the display and when I put a tape in, it will not run. Before I go looking for a new one (I bought this 12 years ago through Custom Autosound that takes modern units and make them fit in classic/antique cars so you do not have to chop up the dash), I thought I'd see if anyone had ideas on what I could check out to get it running again. TIA. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 19:46:12 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 18:46:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Falcon Exhaust & the Lifetime Guarantee Message-ID: I put a Falcon exhaust on the TR3A awhile back. Okay, Reagan was in the White House and I had a full head of hair so let's say 'Quite awhile back". It finally failed about 2 weeks ago, the big muffler got a split that looked like metal fatigue parallel to and about a half inch to one side of the seam. I contacted TRF who contacted Falcon -- it seems that 'Lifetime' and "Guarantee' mean the same thing to them as they mean to me -- in a couple of days a new muffler arrived. Yes, that's as it should be but what great service & support from both the vendor and the manufacturer. BTW, the old bits came apart like I had put it together last week, not 23 years ago. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 4 20:22:40 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 19:22:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bosch Alternator on the TR250 In-Reply-To: References: <0dcb01cac333$055d00d0$0301a8c0@randall> <6D4653B873FA417398B27C9E5F59393A@Edscomputer> <5CF2C3E5A77B45799D0AF83FD07524B2@Edscomputer> <03d201cad434$af2c3ba0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <048501cad466$de1b3c40$0301a8c0@randall> > Is this it? > > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=1 > 61-580&WebCatalogID=0 Yup, that's it. Was just curious what he had come up with, perhaps as a local source. The big electronics distributors seem to still carry them, but it's getting hard to find them in a walk-in store. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-6027&CAWELAID=220325996 Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 4 20:38:15 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 19:38:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake system question In-Reply-To: <6BAFD90831FD457AAE1166C742EB139A@CarlPC> References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net><4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net><1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC><8CCA2344CD54652-12E8-1C43D@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com> <6BAFD90831FD457AAE1166C742EB139A@CarlPC> Message-ID: <048601cad469$0ba46c20$0301a8c0@randall> > I have the 5-way connection; the brake light switch and a questionable > restrictor valve - a part that is no longer available. What > is its purpose > and how will I tell if it is working. More accurately, it is a residual pressure valve. What it does is to hold a small amount of pressure (like maybe 7-10 psi) in the braking system. Under hard cornering, the front spindles bend slightly, which causes the brake rotor to move relative to the brake pistons and push one of them back into the caliper. Without the valve, the brake pedal is low the next time you use the brakes, which can be very disconcerting if you aren't expecting it. With the valve, the opposing piston extends so both pads track the rotor and no excess clearance is created. However, I didn't like having the brakes drag even lightly, so I disabled my RPV. You have to really push the car hard to get into the spindle flex problem; and even then it only takes a small pump of the brakes to get them back. A better solution IMO is "uncle jack's" bearing spacer kit (available from TRF), but I haven't tried mine yet. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Apr 4 21:15:04 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 23:15:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radio/Tape Player In-Reply-To: <35C1E7164B8B482A867386297D84A5EC@Scott> Message-ID: <4BB91D78.22460.12DA2F99@localhost> On 4 Apr 2010 at 21:39, Scott Suhring wrote: > my radio/tape player has stopped working. The clock is > still on but I can get nothing from the radio or the tape player. Most such devices have two power lines and one ground. One of the power lines is unswitched and attaches directly to the battery (or to a wire coming from the battery). This line feeds the clock and presumably an LCD or similar low power display. The other power line usually attaches to a wire that is switched on or off with the accessories position of the ignition switch. It powers the audio. If this wire has come loose you will have clock but no audio. Or it is quite possible that your audio unit itself is blown. But I'd check the power wires first. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From pethier at comcast.net Sun Apr 4 22:04:58 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 04:04:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <1014995261.10027331270440182928.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2078832188.10027801270440298238.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > I'm not bald, but I made a "bikini" top for just that reason, when I > venture > into the desert during the summer. It's not "bikini", it's "Bimini" See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimini_top Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Apr 5 05:53:28 2010 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 07:53:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Coil question In-Reply-To: <048601cad469$0ba46c20$0301a8c0@randall> References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net><4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net><1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC><8CCA2344CD54652-12E8-1C43D@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com><6BAFD90831FD457AAE1166C742EB139A@CarlPC> <048601cad469$0ba46c20$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <937BF03901CA4E4D8EE931CAED15ED3C@DCH6RFC1> List: Took TCF 191LO out Saturday and drove all day - ran beautifully. Went out again yesterday with my son behind the wheel and after around 30 miles it quit suddenly. No spark and a very hot coil. Got a ride home and returned with a replacement coil and it fired up and again ran beautifully. The problem is - this is exactly the same thing as happened 2 years ago, so the coil was (relatively) new. Question: bad luck / coincidence or is anyone aware of a systematic problem which can cause coils to quit? Thanks ! Andrew Uprichard TCF 191LO TSF 51185 enjoying a new life in Europe - I miss it CD 8433 getting very little attention as we pack up and move from Massachusetts to Michigan - next week! _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at comcast.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Apr 5 06:29:02 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:29:02 EDT Subject: [TR] Bushing replacement Message-ID: <972c9.792d0b9c.38eb318e@cs.com> In a message dated 4/4/2010 9:29:59 PM Central Daylight Time, fishplate at charter.net writes: > I'm rebuilding the front suspension on my 75 TR6. Before I just bolt > everything up, it seems like lubricating the rubber bushings with > something will make assembly and settling easier and more even. > > I amy not be the best one to answer this since I've never gotten good results with rubber bushings (which is one reason why I use poly) but from what I've gleaned from this list is that my technique was wrong. And that technique involved lubricating the bushings. The prescribed procedure involves no lubrication but it does say to not tighten up the bushings until after the car is set back on its wheels and the suspension arms are in their default position. Then tighten them up. This way as the suspension moves the rubber will deform as the two parts move in relation to each other. If you lubricate, as I have found, one bushing will push the other bushing out the end of the joint. Hopefully, someone who has successfully installed rubber bushings will comment on the tricks of doing this right. If you decide to go poly be sure to lube the inner bores or you will get squeaking. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Apr 5 06:50:17 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:50:17 EDT Subject: [TR] First ride Message-ID: <984ff.779f684a.38eb3689@cs.com> In a message dated 4/4/2010 11:55:04 PM Central Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > >I'm not bald, but I made a "bikini" top for just that reason, when I > >venture > >into the desert during the summer. > > It's not "bikini", it's "Bimini" > > See > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimini_top > Kill joy! From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Apr 5 06:51:40 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:51:40 EDT Subject: [TR] Radio/Tape Player Message-ID: <98628.2f1bb548.38eb36dc@cs.com> In a message dated 4/4/2010 9:31:20 PM Central Daylight Time, suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes: > As I continue to get my 70 TR6 ready for the driving season (I've had 2 > good > drives already), my radio/tape player has stopped working. The clock is > still on but I can get nothing from the radio or the tape player. When I > turn it on, there is no station numbers coming up on the display and when > I > put a tape in, it will not run. Before I go looking for a new one (I > bought > this 12 years ago through Custom Autosound that takes modern units and > make > them fit in classic/antique cars so you do not have to chop up the dash), > I > thought I'd see if anyone had ideas on what I could check out to get it > running again. TIA. > As Jim said, there are two power feeds. Typically both are fused. Check you fuses. Dave (Check the easy things first) From brad.kahler at 141.com Mon Apr 5 06:56:21 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:56:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire brake switch Message-ID: While rebuilding the custom throttle pedal assembly on Susan's spitfire race car I inadvertently broke the brake switch. Unfortunately I don't have enough time to order a switch from any of the usual suppliers as the car is being loaded on the trailer Monday for the trip to VIR. Has anyone sourced a brake switch from a local auto parts supply such as Napa, Autozone, etc? If so which one? Thanks! Brad From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Apr 5 06:59:39 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:59:39 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Coil question Message-ID: <98ce2.4664a8df.38eb38bb@cs.com> In a message dated 4/5/2010 7:08:50 AM Central Daylight Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: > Took TCF 191LO out Saturday and drove all day - ran beautifully. Went > out > again yesterday with my son behind the wheel and after around 30 miles it > quit suddenly. No spark and a very hot coil. Got a ride home and > returned > with a replacement coil and it fired up and again ran beautifully. > > The problem is - this is exactly the same thing as happened 2 years ago, > so > the coil was (relatively) new. > > Question: bad luck / coincidence or is anyone aware of a systematic > problem > which can cause coils to quit? Thanks ! > How hot is hot? Remember this thing is bolted to the side of the block. It's going to get hot to the touch. It real problem may be something simple like a dodgy connection. I had a similar problem with my TR3 years ago. Turned out to be a loose rivet holding one of the electrical connectors on the top of the coil. A little tapping of the rivet with a screwdriver to tighten the connection fixed it. Check the wires, pushon connectors and any other parts of the low tension circuit for intermittent connection. Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 5 08:13:01 2010 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:13:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] Body repair In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If I saw the same show they used a magnet to hold metal slugs in the holes and spot welded the slugs in place and then finished the welds. They mentioned that they only added rod where necessary. I used a mig welder and washers when I did the holes in my firewall. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Apr 5 08:20:24 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 09:20:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spitfire brake switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20100405152016.44C81187652@autox.team.net> I'm not familiar with the spitty brake switch, so may be way off base. My TR-4 uses a push button switch to actuate the brake lights. I used one for a GM for a while but it was intermittent. Following Irv's advice, I got a brake light switch from a Honda and it's been perfect since. A cooperative clerk at the parts store pulled several different switches until we found one that was push button with two terminals. I don't remember which model it was from, though. - Tony At 07:56 AM 4/5/2010, Brad Kahler wrote: >While rebuilding the custom throttle pedal assembly on Susan's spitfire race >car I inadvertently broke the brake switch. Unfortunately I don't have >enough time to order a switch from any of the usual suppliers as the car is >being loaded on the trailer Monday for the trip to VIR. > >Has anyone sourced a brake switch from a local auto parts supply such as >Napa, Autozone, etc? If so which one? > >Thanks! > >Brad From brad.kahler at 141.com Mon Apr 5 08:24:41 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 10:24:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire brake switch In-Reply-To: <20100405142034.23A0BB4D41C@gate19.gate.dfw.mlsrvr.com> References: <20100405142034.23A0BB4D41C@gate19.gate.dfw.mlsrvr.com> Message-ID: Wow! Got a bunch of replies real quick! I think I have enough info to work on and will be heading to the local parts stores this evening. Thanks again! Brad > At 07:56 AM 4/5/2010, Brad Kahler wrote: > >> While rebuilding the custom throttle pedal assembly on Susan's spitfire >> race >> car I inadvertently broke the brake switch. Unfortunately I don't have >> enough time to order a switch from any of the usual suppliers as the car >> is >> being loaded on the trailer Monday for the trip to VIR. >> >> Has anyone sourced a brake switch from a local auto parts supply such as >> Napa, Autozone, etc? If so which one? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Brad From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 5 09:18:28 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:18:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Coil question In-Reply-To: <937BF03901CA4E4D8EE931CAED15ED3C@DCH6RFC1> References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net><4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net><1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC><8CCA2344CD54652-12E8-1C43D@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com><6BAFD90831FD457AAE1166C742EB139A@CarlPC> <048601cad469$0ba46c20$0301a8c0@randall> <937BF03901CA4E4D8EE931CAED15ED3C@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <04fa01cad4d3$3e941300$0301a8c0@randall> > Question: bad luck / coincidence or is anyone aware of a > systematic problem > which can cause coils to quit? Well, the most obvious question is did you get the right kind of coil? After that, I would check the end-to-end resistance of all the plug wires (from cap terminal to plug terminal) to see that they are all reasonably close to the same value. The exact value isn't so important, anything between 0 and maybe 5000 ohms is OK depending on what kind of wires you are running; but one that is unusually high indicates a problem that could be allowing the system voltage to go too high every time that cylinder fires. I had a coil fail during TRfest, then started suspecting it's replacement just a few days ago. Turns out I've got 3 wires that check very close to 2000 ohms, and one that is at 12500. In the past, I've had problems with "carbon core" wires burning out at the cap terminal; but in this case the resistor inside the plug boot has apparently failed. Or it might just be crummy coils. I recall some years ago, Ken at BFE reported that he bought a case of "Lucas Sports" coils, and found that a significant percentage of them (like over half) were either DOA or didn't perform as advertised on a coil tester. He threw the entire lot away. Randall From rjones at wfeca.net Mon Apr 5 10:03:11 2010 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 12:03:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Seat Covers In-Reply-To: <04fa01cad4d3$3e941300$0301a8c0@randall> References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net><4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net><1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC><8CCA2344CD54652-12E8-1C43D@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com><6BAFD90831FD457AAE1166C742EB139A@CarlPC> <048601cad469$0ba46c20$0301a8c0@randall> <937BF03901CA4E4D8EE931CAED15ED3C@DCH6RFC1> <04fa01cad4d3$3e941300$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <55CB7342-78A9-4632-AA1D-3DEB90382FBD@wfeca.net> Hi Folks: Does anyone know of a source for slip-over seat covers for a TR6? I need something to protect the leather seat covers from everyday use. Thanks Bob From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Apr 5 11:03:51 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 13:03:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Seat Covers References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net><4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net><1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC><8CCA2344CD54652-12E8-1C43D@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com><6BAFD90831FD457AAE1166C742EB139A@CarlPC><048601cad469$0ba46c20$0301a8c0@randall><937BF03901CA4E4D8EE931CAED15ED3C@DCH6RFC1><04fa01cad4d3$3e941300$0301a8c0@randall> <55CB7342-78A9-4632-AA1D-3DEB90382FBD@wfeca.net> Message-ID: Bob, Moss has some terry cloth ones. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Jones" To: Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 12:03 PM Subject: [TR] Seat Covers > Hi Folks: > > Does anyone know of a source for slip-over seat covers for a TR6? I need > something to protect the leather seat covers from everyday use. > > Thanks > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From pethier at comcast.net Mon Apr 5 11:50:06 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 17:50:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <1261687726.10200751270489394017.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1388978226.10205131270489806632.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: >> It's not "bikini", it's "Bimini" >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimini_top > > > Kill joy! Yeah, I know. :-) The confusion may have started when someone combined Bimini with Birkin to denote sunshades for Birkin cars. The Birkini. Someone else wanted to denote such a device for any car and mistook the construction as coming from bikini. I made a Bimini of sorts for the TR4 by cutting the windows out of an old shrunken white TR4 top I bought on Ebay. Maybe the new owner will stretch it back out and get the frame to fit correctly. http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/3973983458/in/set-72157622574405912/ Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 5 13:23:12 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 12:23:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <1388978226.10205131270489806632.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1261687726.10200751270489394017.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1388978226.10205131270489806632.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <056a01cad4f5$6ef3d4f0$0301a8c0@randall> > The confusion may have started when someone combined Bimini > with Birkin to denote sunshades for Birkin cars. The > Birkini. Someone else wanted to denote such a device for any > car and mistook the construction as coming from bikini. Just to show that I'm not the only one confused; "Bikini Top" is actually a registered trademark for a similar cover made for Jeeps & similar: http://www.bestop.com/index.php?s=8 Randall From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Mon Apr 5 13:38:28 2010 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 15:38:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A modern flasher Message-ID: <4BBA3C34.6080106@cogeco.ca> Hi Listers, The flasher decided it was going to retire over the winter, and that's all I need to get back on the road. In case NAPA doesn't cross reference lucas part numbers do you have any idea the modern (relative) equivalent part number? From willgray at vaxxine.com Mon Apr 5 13:53:26 2010 From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett and Carol Gray) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 15:53:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Disc Brake Pads Message-ID: I am trying to install some new disc brake pads, purchased from Moss Motors, in my TR3A (TS 24301L). Before installing the pads I have cleaned the caliper and pistons, replaced the rubber seals and re-installed the pistons following the instructions set out in Haynes. So far so good. However, when I now attempt to install the pads, I find the the thickness of the pads is such that there is insufficient space to to accommodate the rotor and the two pads (with their metal and rubber backing) within the caliper. As far as I can detect, the pistons are fully retracted into the caliper and should not be obstructing the pads. Am I doing something wrong, or is this simply a case of after-market pads not conforming to original specs? Dave -- David Willett and Carol Gray, 331 Gage Street, Box 773, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0 Fax: 905 468 3007 Ph: 905 468 0608 E-Mail; willgray at vaxxine.com From joemato at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 5 13:57:14 2010 From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 12:57:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 134 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20303.39039.qm@web83505.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> ________________________________ From: "triumphs-request at autox.team.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 2:00:02 PM Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 134 Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to triumphs-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: TR3 Coil question (Randall) 2. Seat Covers (Robert Jones) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:18:28 -0700 From: "Randall" Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil question To: "'triumph list'" Message-ID: <04fa01cad4d3$3e941300$0301a8c0 at randall> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > Question: bad luck / coincidence or is anyone aware of a > systematic problem > which can cause coils to quit? Well, the most obvious question is did you get the right kind of coil? After that, I would check the end-to-end resistance of all the plug wires (from cap terminal to plug terminal) to see that they are all reasonably close to the same value. The exact value isn't so important, anything between 0 and maybe 5000 ohms is OK depending on what kind of wires you are running; but one that is unusually high indicates a problem that could be allowing the system voltage to go too high every time that cylinder fires. I had a coil fail during TRfest, then started suspecting it's replacement just a few days ago. Turns out I've got 3 wires that check very close to 2000 ohms, and one that is at 12500. In the past, I've had problems with "carbon core" wires burning out at the cap terminal; but in this case the resistor inside the plug boot has apparently failed. Or it might just be crummy coils. I recall some years ago, Ken at BFE reported that he bought a case of "Lucas Sports" coils, and found that a significant percentage of them (like over half) were either DOA or didn't perform as advertised on a coil tester. He threw the entire lot away. Randall ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 12:03:11 -0400 From: Robert Jones Subject: [TR] Seat Covers To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <55CB7342-78A9-4632-AA1D-3DEB90382FBD at wfeca.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Folks: Does anyone know of a source for slip-over seat covers for a TR6? I need something to protect the leather seat covers from everyday use. Thanks Bob ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 134 **************************************** From cofrog at q.com Mon Apr 5 14:19:16 2010 From: cofrog at q.com (Dan Forgey) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 20:19:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <1388978226.10205131270489806632.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1261687726.10200751270489394017.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, <1388978226.10205131270489806632.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I alway thought it would be a good thing if tops were offered for TR3, TR4 and early Spits with a zip out rear window like the later cars. > Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 17:50:06 +0000 > From: pethier at comcast.net > To: Dave1massey at cs.com > CC: Triumphs at autox.team.net; tr3driver at ca.rr.com > Subject: Re: [TR] First ride > > ----- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > >> It's not "bikini", it's "Bimini" > >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimini_top > > > > > > Kill joy! > > Yeah, I know. :-) > > The confusion may have started when someone combined Bimini with Birkin to denote sunshades for Birkin cars. The Birkini. Someone else wanted to denote such a device for any car and mistook the construction as coming from bikini. > > I made a Bimini of sorts for the TR4 by cutting the windows out of an old shrunken white TR4 top I bought on Ebay. Maybe the new owner will stretch it back out and get the frame to fit correctly. > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/3973983458/in/set-72157622574405912/ > > > > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" > 1979 Caterham Super Seven > 2004 Suburban 8.1 > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org > http://www.mnautox.com > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cofrog at q.com From 60TR3A at cox.net Mon Apr 5 14:32:37 2010 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 13:32:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <056a01cad4f5$6ef3d4f0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <1261687726.10200751270489394017.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1388978226.10205131270489806632.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <056a01cad4f5$6ef3d4f0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <009B5467-7771-48AA-8A54-8EAAB9B03254@cox.net> I believe that the very small piece of cloth that can be used to cover the head of the driver of the new Porsche Boxster Spyder is call a "bikini" top. John On 5 Apr, 2010, at 12:23 PM, Randall wrote: >> The confusion may have started when someone combined Bimini >> with Birkin to denote sunshades for Birkin cars. The >> Birkini. Someone else wanted to denote such a device for any >> car and mistook the construction as coming from bikini. > > Just to show that I'm not the only one confused; "Bikini Top" is actually a > registered trademark for a similar cover made for Jeeps & similar: > > Randall > John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Apr 5 15:05:33 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:05:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake system question In-Reply-To: <6BAFD90831FD457AAE1166C742EB139A@CarlPC> References: <61615F86-D23A-4C50-A7AA-5DAAA058DC1E@telus.net> <4E4DCCE6-56FC-448E-BE05-F6EEBE401949@cox.net> <1AFE0131FE444256BD9ACAB571F529D3@CarlPC> <8CCA2344CD54652-12E8-1C43D@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com> <6BAFD90831FD457AAE1166C742EB139A@CarlPC> Message-ID: On 4/4/10, Carl TR wrote: > Also, what is the routing of the brake pipe from the 5-way to the Master > Cylinder. I know it goes up and across the firewall but I am at a quandary > of how it travels. Here's how mine (TS47905) looks, get several opinions to be sure. http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3-BrakeLine.JPG Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Apr 5 15:19:58 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:19:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Disc Brake Pads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 4/5/10, David Willett and Carol Gray wrote: > ...thickness of the pads is such that there is insufficient space to to > accommodate the rotor and the two pads (with their metal and rubber > backing)... Not clear on what you mean by rubber backing... don't recall anything but pad & metal. Geo From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Apr 5 15:52:19 2010 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 17:52:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Disc Brake Pads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This happened to me during a recent re-build and it was due to the pistons not being fully retracted into the calipers: if fitted properly, they should protrude just a smidgeon (scientific word meaning a wee bit). Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Willett and Carol Gray Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 3:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Disc Brake Pads I am trying to install some new disc brake pads, purchased from Moss Motors, in my TR3A (TS 24301L). Before installing the pads I have cleaned the caliper and pistons, replaced the rubber seals and re-installed the pistons following the instructions set out in Haynes. So far so good. However, when I now attempt to install the pads, I find the the thickness of the pads is such that there is insufficient space to to accommodate the rotor and the two pads (with their metal and rubber backing) within the caliper. As far as I can detect, the pistons are fully retracted into the caliper and should not be obstructing the pads. Am I doing something wrong, or is this simply a case of after-market pads not conforming to original specs? Dave -- David Willett and Carol Gray, 331 Gage Street, Box 773, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0 Fax: 905 468 3007 Ph: 905 468 0608 E-Mail; willgray at vaxxine.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 5 15:56:55 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:56:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: References: <1261687726.10200751270489394017.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, <1388978226.10205131270489806632.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1c2601cad50a$e8a16140$b9e423c0$@rr.com> > I alway thought it would be a good thing if tops were offered for TR3, > TR4 and > early Spits with a zip out rear window like the later cars. For what it's worth, there is an upholstery shop here in SoCA that can modify your top with a zip-out rear window. But the cost seemed kind of high to me, especially since I got the one I modified for free and it only took a few seconds to cut the windows out. I don't recall the exact number offhand (help me out here, Bob), but it was nearly as much as buying a new top. Likely other shops could do the same, if you were willing to pay the price. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 5 16:08:30 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 15:08:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Disc Brake Pads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1c2801cad50c$871e8a90$955b9fb0$@rr.com> > Am I doing something wrong, or is this simply a case of after-market > pads not conforming to original specs? The original pads had no rubber backing. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 5 16:16:51 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 15:16:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A modern flasher In-Reply-To: <4BBA3C34.6080106@cogeco.ca> References: <4BBA3C34.6080106@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <1c2901cad50d$b1912110$14b36330$@rr.com> > The flasher decided it was going to retire over the winter, and that's > all I need to get back on the road. In case NAPA doesn't cross > reference lucas part numbers do you have any idea the modern (relative) > equivalent part number? Theoretically, a model 550 should work, but my experience is that they don't unless you rewire the indicator lamp on the dash. You could try a Tridon EL13 though. It seemed to work at first, but failed within a year. On my TR3A, I wound up rewiring the dash lamp so a 550 would work, and it lasted many years. The modification is simple; you just remove the wire for the indicator lamp from where it's joined to the ground point, and connect it to the ignition switch (white wire) instead. Oddly enough, the TR3 has an old model 550 on it (Ideal brand), which works fine. I tried substituting a Wagner 550 the other day, and it left the dash lamp on all the time. Best route is probably to just buy a proper flasher from one of the usual suspects. -- Randall From jhassall at blacksburg.net Mon Apr 5 16:36:47 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 18:36:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire brake switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BBA65FF.1020706@blacksburg.net> On 4/5/2010 8:56 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: > While rebuilding the custom throttle pedal assembly on Susan's spitfire race > car I inadvertently broke the brake switch. Unfortunately I don't have > enough time to order a switch from any of the usual suppliers as the car is > being loaded on the trailer Monday for the trip to VIR. > > Has anyone sourced a brake switch from a local auto parts supply such as > Napa, Autozone, etc? If so which one? > > Thanks! > > Brad > Brad, I just picked up a switch from Napa. It was for a '69 Camero, part number:SL169. The threaded section is 1 1/4 long by 3/8 dia, course thread. I can send a picture if you need it. jim -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 6 06:15:04 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 05:15:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A modern flasher Message-ID: <557939.36544.qm@web51601.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List! This is what I have found in my manual regarding this thread, I hope it's helpful: --------- Electrical \Fuses\Fuses box Subject: Flashers - 4Way Flasher Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 From: "Fred Thomas" If you have a original Lucas flasher # 35010 with the raised lettering, then open the bottom of the unit carefully and remove the guts and reinstall a # 550 universal flasher guts, nobody, not even Andy M. can detect the change of the components, bet ya. -"FT" --------- -Cosmo Kramer From januaryw at gmail.com Tue Apr 6 08:56:38 2010 From: januaryw at gmail.com (January Williams) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 07:56:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: TR3A modern flasher Message-ID: > The flasher decided it was going to retire over the winter, and that's > all I need to get back on the road. In case NAPA doesn't cross > reference lucas part numbers do you have any idea the modern (relative) > equivalent part number? Theoretically, a model 550 should work, but my experience is that they don't unless you rewire the indicator lamp on the dash. . . . . Best route is probably to just buy a proper flasher from one of the usual suspects. ------------------------------------ FWIW when my original quit a couple of years ago I got a "modern" replacement from Moss (complete with holographic label.) Works OK but takes god-awful long to start; light comes on right away but takes 2-3 seconds to begin blinking. January Williams 66 TR4A CTC74217 LO Salem, Oregon From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Tue Apr 6 10:27:46 2010 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 18:27:46 +0200 Subject: [TR] Rear oil seal leak Message-ID: <5F0A0EA7552843109CFBB171D20EB8D9@Study> My 4A has developed and oil leak round the rear crankcase seal. I'm advised that it's very likely due to crankcase pressure not being vented properly via the ancient PCV valve and I should try fitting a TR3 or 4 vent pipe underneath the fuel pump.( #39 on the exploded engine view.) None of the usual suspects seem to have one on the shelf. Has anyone got a spare hanging round their garage they have no use for that I could buy? It would involve posting it to France where I live but it might save me from having to pull the engine! David Brister 1967 TR4A CTC77785 O -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 6119 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From wayne at motorcarriage.com Tue Apr 6 11:49:20 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 13:49:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Chassis #'s (trying to figure out build Month for FDU 32758) Message-ID: Hi Listers, I just bought a Spitfire project that has been in it's Garage since 94. Real solid straight Tub and no rust at all to speak of. It's already been stripped down though including windshield Frame, Doors, and Boot Lid. As well as Interior, Walnut and the rest of the Dash in boxes. New Walnut Dash Panels and a supposed rebuilt Engine on the side. Has a Hardtop up in the Rafters of the Garage that looks like Fiberglass, so I don't think it's factory. Here's the thing. I bought it as being a 68 Mk III, but then after seeing some 69's I remembered seeing the side marker lights on the Fenders which I confirmed with the pictures I took. Also the Seats that were stuffed in the corner of the Garage had no Headrests, as I said Dash had Walnut. After checking out it's Serial# on a site that had many registered owners, I see that there's a 68 Spit with ID# FD 31226 and a 69 with # FDU 31354. I couldn't find a better listing of vehicles but with my Car being # FDU 32758 and the 68 listed as a 31226 showed it had to be one of the first 1532 69 Spits at least, even if that 68 was the last one of it's Model year made. I saw the 69 Brochure showing Headrests, new for 69 Black vinyl Dashboard etc. Did some of the early 69 Spits carry over some 68 traits? I know how things can get changed and backdated with older Parts over the years, but I was hoping someone could pinpoint the Build Date a little closer if they had a Heritage Certificate from one close in the Serial # range? Does anyone know of a better Database to access? I'll get a Heritage Certificate for it someday, not high on the list right now. Getting it home is the first thing to worry about I should think.. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 (project) 75 TR6 (Daily Driver) 69 Spitfire (Going to lift the Tub off this one) From blambert at socal.rr.com Tue Apr 6 11:59:26 2010 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 10:59:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <1c2601cad50a$e8a16140$b9e423c0$@rr.com> References: <1261687726.10200751270489394017.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, <1388978226.10205131270489806632.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1c2601cad50a$e8a16140$b9e423c0$@rr.com> Message-ID: The guy who used to do the zip out rear windows for the 3's and 4's (Jim Thurmond of Canoga Park Upholstery) has retired; I don't know if the folks who bought his shop still does them or not. Jim charged $200 to modify a stock top; and that was several years ago. Last year I thought I wanted one for the 3, so I borrowed one from a club member that had been done by Jim, took it to a local shop and had them modify my stock top similar to the one Jim had done. Cost was $175. Works great - when I use it. It turns out that when I want the top up for sun protection on a long drive, I usually have the side curtains out, which gives me plenty of flow-thru ventilation without unzipping the rear window. In retrospect, I pretty much wasted the one seventy five. I've noticed that others, however, drive with the side curtains in and the back window unzipped, so I guess it's just a matter of preference. Dennis > > For what it's worth, there is an upholstery shop here in SoCA that can > modify your top with a zip-out rear window. > > Likely other shops could do the same, if you were willing to pay the price. > > -- Randall From spitlist at cox.net Tue Apr 6 13:04:50 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 12:04:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Chassis #'s (trying to figure out build Month for FDU 32758) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9F6EC6E4F9D3401DBC1E87FB842090E2@joepentiumnew> Wayne, The car is a 1969 model. In the Mk3 production, Triumph changed from designating the model year according to the actual year of manufacture to the designated model year according to it's configuration (approximating the US model year). The 1969 Model year began with commission number FDU31000L and continued until the 70 model began with Commission numbers beginning with 75000. The last 1969 I have found in the database is 51940, but could actually be much higher than that. The BMIHT suggests it is 51949 but are not absolutely certain of that. As for the build month, ut is likely somewhere late in 68 but because it is a configuration designated model it will have the same equipment that was required on all the others in that model year (specifically safety and emissions equipment). So the side markers are correct. The FD designated cars were in a transition period and since they were not designated to meet the US safety and emissions requirements, they could have different equipment. Only the FDU cars fall under those restrictions. Needless to say, the Mk3 is a bit confusing to say the least. Cheers, Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Lee Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:49 AM To: Triumph List; Lotus FF Subject: [TR] Spitfire Chassis #'s (trying to figure out build Month for FDU 32758) Hi Listers, I just bought a Spitfire project that has been in it's Garage since 94. Real solid straight Tub and no rust at all to speak of. It's already been stripped down though including windshield Frame, Doors, and Boot Lid. As well as Interior, Walnut and the rest of the Dash in boxes. New Walnut Dash Panels and a supposed rebuilt Engine on the side. Has a Hardtop up in the Rafters of the Garage that looks like Fiberglass, so I don't think it's factory. Here's the thing. I bought it as being a 68 Mk III, but then after seeing some 69's I remembered seeing the side marker lights on the Fenders which I confirmed with the pictures I took. Also the Seats that were stuffed in the corner of the Garage had no Headrests, as I said Dash had Walnut. After checking out it's Serial# on a site that had many registered owners, I see that there's a 68 Spit with ID# FD 31226 and a 69 with # FDU 31354. I couldn't find a better listing of vehicles but with my Car being # FDU 32758 and the 68 listed as a 31226 showed it had to be one of the first 1532 69 Spits at least, even if that 68 was the last one of it's Model year made. I saw the 69 Brochure showing Headrests, new for 69 Black vinyl Dashboard etc. Did some of the early 69 Spits carry over some 68 traits? I know how things can get changed and backdated with older Parts over the years, but I was hoping someone could pinpoint the Build Date a little closer if they had a Heritage Certificate from one close in the Serial # range? Does anyone know of a better Database to access? I'll get a Heritage Certificate for it someday, not high on the list right now. Getting it home is the first thing to worry about I should think.. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 (project) 75 TR6 (Daily Driver) 69 Spitfire (Going to lift the Tub off this one) _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Tue Apr 6 14:35:32 2010 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 16:35:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A modern flasher Message-ID: <4bbb9b14.28a.5067.28057@cogeco.ca> > Best route is probably to just buy a proper flasher from one of the usual > suspects. But the usual subjects are 3 weeks away by mail, and the season is short. NAPA is on my way to/from work. NAPA's parts database had something when they keyed in 1960 Triumph so for $6 it was worth a gamble, if it fails within a year I'll have had my replacement from TRF/Moss in stock for 49 weeks by then ;) From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Apr 6 14:43:54 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 20:43:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] That would be, Cosmic Jesting: The Loki Effect; Coyote Laughing In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <891228397.14108781270586634608.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Before winter, I washed the TR3A, brought it into the garage, lovingly waxed and polished to glistening beauty, carefully covered with a mid-quality carcover, and stowed for the winter in the garage.B That would be the longest period ever that it stayed clean and bright:B it is a daily driver, after all. ...So.B My first drive.B My driveway is 880 feet long, and I didn't make it to the pavement before the fenders and spoke wheels were splashed with mud. I'm thinking beauty mud treatment and let it go.B After a washing, it's guaranteed to rain, like the car is one of those sticky mouse traps for muck. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire (still working on that ASCII thing:B must be an alien artifact) From carlsereda at aol.com Tue Apr 6 15:02:50 2010 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 14:02:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR heater/demister 'Y tube' on eBay In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3ADCC841.49E0.4752.97A4.02DD5DD58204@aol.com> someone was looking for the 'Y tube' for TR windsheild demister/heater system - I just saw one on eBay yesterday - sorry, don't have the link but you can find it.. Carl '63 TR4 since '74 On Apr 6, 2010, at 11:00:01 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: david.brister at wanadoo.fr From cofrog at q.com Tue Apr 6 15:04:02 2010 From: cofrog at q.com (Dan Forgey) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 21:04:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] First ride In-Reply-To: <1c2601cad50a$e8a16140$b9e423c0$@rr.com> References: <1261687726.10200751270489394017.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, , <1388978226.10205131270489806632.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, , <1c2601cad50a$e8a16140$b9e423c0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Yep, can most always spend big bucks for "fabrication". It could be worthwhile if one could spend a little more when they buy a new top that already has the zip out window. Lower taxes would be nice too! Alas.... > From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:56:55 -0700 > Subject: Re: [TR] First ride > > > I alway thought it would be a good thing if tops were offered for TR3, > > TR4 and > > early Spits with a zip out rear window like the later cars. > > For what it's worth, there is an upholstery shop here in SoCA that can > modify your top with a zip-out rear window. > > But the cost seemed kind of high to me, especially since I got the one I > modified for free and it only took a few seconds to cut the windows out. I > don't recall the exact number offhand (help me out here, Bob), but it was > nearly as much as buying a new top. > > Likely other shops could do the same, if you were willing to pay the price. > > -- Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cofrog at q.com From 60TR3A at cox.net Tue Apr 6 15:14:15 2010 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 14:14:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A modern flasher In-Reply-To: <4bbb9b14.28a.5067.28057@cogeco.ca> References: <4bbb9b14.28a.5067.28057@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <73995FC0-796A-468A-8D4D-1F6983913980@cox.net> Even though I have an Advanced AutoWwire system in my TR3, I may have a solution. I have recently put the original voltage regulator, "fuse box" & am waiting for a broken turn signal flasher to put it back in the engin compartment CONNECTED TO NOTHING just for the appropriate "look" So my suggestion is put a modern electronic flashed unit behind the instrument panel (where you can hear it click) to flash the lights and leave the broken on in the engine compartment for looks. John Therefore let this On 6 Apr, 2010, at 1:35 PM, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote: >> Best route is probably to just buy a proper flasher from one of the usual >> suspects. > > But the usual subjects are 3 weeks away by mail, and the season is short. NAPA is on my way to/from work. > > NAPA's parts database had something when they keyed in 1960 Triumph so for $6 it was worth a gamble, if it fails within > a year I'll have had my replacement from TRF/Moss in stock for 49 weeks by then ;) > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/60tr3a at cox.net > John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From akgraves at cox.net Tue Apr 6 16:37:10 2010 From: akgraves at cox.net (Art & Karen Graves) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 17:37:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Speedometer Angle Drive Message-ID: <003701cad5d9$b24bc4d0$16e34e70$@net> There is a small drip from the speedometer angle drive on my 1976 TR6 with J-Type overdrive. I removed the assembly, cleaned it, replaced the o-ring, and reassembled, making sure are parts fit properly and snugly. There is still a drip. My question, is it possible that the bearing assembly wears out and needs periodic replacement? They are not horribly expensive, but I dont want to replace it if it wont help. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks, Art Graves Tulsa, OK 1976 Triumph TR6 1985 Jaguar XJ6 From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Apr 6 17:09:29 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 23:09:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] Summer party info?? In-Reply-To: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB72705F@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> References: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB72705F@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F5043D12@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> I'm just filling out the online form for registering for the TRF summer party and it is asking if I want to be entered into the Concours d'elegance.. Normally that is a special category for showroom condition cars etc which mine aint even close but I'm wondering if this is just Charles's fancy way of asking if we plan to put the car in the car show.. I don't want to press the button and find I have to pack an extra toothbrush to clean my ball joints. Hoping someone is around to advise before this form times out.. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Thornton Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 10:07 AM To: v6spitfireguy at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Summer party info?? Barry et al- For one, if I were to attend only one British car event for the Summer, this would be it. In years past, TSP has been expanded to include events from Thursday through Sunday evening. My favorite has been the Drive-in movie, where they have rented the entire venue and played a car related movie, while serving dinner. They have also served evening meals that have been as elegant as service on china in the past. However, in more recent and leaner times, TRF has become more cost conscious and the events have included a night at the drag strip, a funkana, evening movies (but not at the drive-in) and a chance to dive at Charles' restaurant, The Coventry Inn. In short, TSP is a big congregation of like minded enthuasists gathering together at the "factory." I wish you could have attended in the years past when things were larger and expanded, but I will always enjoy traveling to Pennsylvania for any event they organize. Hope to see you there! Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY 1968 Triumph TR 250 1963 Jaguar Mk II RHD 1965 Harley Davidson Topper 2000 Indian Chief 2007 Harley Davidson FLSTC -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 8:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Summer party info?? Hoping not to start a huge thread about the virtues of the Summer party, My wife and I were thinking of taking a road trip and in doing so include the Roadster Factory's Summer Party this year, but was wondering if the trip (from San Diego) would be worth it. Can anybody that has attended let me know what is involved/included, in other words is it more than just another car show and worth the couple of weeks (and expense) that the trip would take?? Nothing on their site really says what will be going on ore is included in the entrance fee. Thanks Barry -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sothornton at stevethorntonl aw.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan.foster at hp.com From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Apr 6 18:13:24 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 20:13:24 EDT Subject: [TR] Summer party info?? Message-ID: What do you mean by an EXTRA toothbrush? Don't you use the same one on your ball joints that you use on your teeth? I know I do.... Sorry, can't answer your question, though. Tim From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Tue Apr 6 19:20:27 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 20:20:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Summer party info?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Do they take points off for plaque on ball joints? Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com > Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 20:13:24 -0400 > To: stan.foster at hp.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Summer party info?? > > What do you mean by an EXTRA toothbrush? Don't you use the same one on your > ball joints that you use on your teeth? I know I do.... > > Sorry, can't answer your question, though. > > Tim > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Tue Apr 6 20:11:04 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:11:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radio/Tape Player In-Reply-To: <4BB91D78.22460.12DA2F99@localhost> References: <35C1E7164B8B482A867386297D84A5EC@Scott> <4BB91D78.22460.12DA2F99@localhost> Message-ID: Thanks Jim. I'll check that out. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 11:15 PM To: Triumph Mail List Subject: Re: [TR] Radio/Tape Player On 4 Apr 2010 at 21:39, Scott Suhring wrote: > my radio/tape player has stopped working. The clock is > still on but I can get nothing from the radio or the tape player. Most such devices have two power lines and one ground. One of the power lines is unswitched and attaches directly to the battery (or to a wire coming from the battery). This line feeds the clock and presumably an LCD or similar low power display. The other power line usually attaches to a wire that is switched on or off with the accessories position of the ignition switch. It powers the audio. If this wire has come loose you will have clock but no audio. Or it is quite possible that your audio unit itself is blown. But I'd check the power wires first. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/suhringtr36 at comcast.net From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Apr 7 05:43:28 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 07:43:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear oil seal leak In-Reply-To: <5F0A0EA7552843109CFBB171D20EB8D9@Study> References: <5F0A0EA7552843109CFBB171D20EB8D9@Study> Message-ID: <8CCA45EACD1717B-1120-E69@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> My 4A has developed and oil leak round the rear crankcase seal. I'm advised that it's very likely due to crankcase pressure not being vented properly via the ancient PCV valve and I should try fitting a TR3 or 4 vent pipe underneath the fuel pump.( #39 on the exploded engine view.) None of the usual suspects seem to have one on the shelf. Has anyone got a spare hanging round their garage they have no use for that I could buy? It would involve posting it to France where I live but it might save me from having to pull the engine! Or post it to me and I'll hand carry it over to Brittany, if you're going, David? Dave From pebarnes71 at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 06:19:45 2010 From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:19:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Summer party info?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 9:20 PM, Rich White wrote: > Do they take points off for plaque on ball joints? > I recently started using those "white strips" on my ball joints. The results were quite astounding; the ball joints have never looked better. --Phil, '71 TR6 since 1977 From wbeech at flash.net Wed Apr 7 09:08:51 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:08:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] First ride & shrunken tops In-Reply-To: <1388978226.10205131270489806632.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1261687726.10200751270489394017.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1388978226.10205131270489806632.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Speaking of shrunken tops. The Amco top that came with my TR3 comes up about 2" short, across the windscreen, is there any way to stretch these back into shape? Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 11:50 AM To: Dave1massey at cs.com Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net; tr3driver at ca.rr.com Subject: Re: [TR] First ride ----- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: >> It's not "bikini", it's "Bimini" >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimini_top > > > Kill joy! Yeah, I know. :-) The confusion may have started when someone combined Bimini with Birkin to denote sunshades for Birkin cars. The Birkini. Someone else wanted to denote such a device for any car and mistook the construction as coming from bikini. I made a Bimini of sorts for the TR4 by cutting the windows out of an old shrunken white TR4 top I bought on Ebay. Maybe the new owner will stretch it back out and get the frame to fit correctly. http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/3973983458/in/set-72157622574405912/ Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Wed Apr 7 09:08:51 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:08:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rear oil seal leak In-Reply-To: <8CCA45EACD1717B-1120-E69@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> References: <5F0A0EA7552843109CFBB171D20EB8D9@Study> <8CCA45EACD1717B-1120-E69@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Don't you have a vented oil filler cap on your TR4? If there is excessive crankcase pressure, this should handle it easily without have to add the vent from the TR3, which can be another source of oil leaks unto itself. Regards, Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:43 AM To: david.brister at wanadoo.fr; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Rear oil seal leak My 4A has developed and oil leak round the rear crankcase seal. I'm advised that it's very likely due to crankcase pressure not being vented properly via the ancient PCV valve and I should try fitting a TR3 or 4 vent pipe underneath the fuel pump.( #39 on the exploded engine view.) None of the usual suspects seem to have one on the shelf. Has anyone got a spare hanging round their garage they have no use for that I could buy? It would involve posting it to France where I live but it might save me from having to pull the engine! Or post it to me and I'll hand carry it over to Brittany, if you're going, David? Dave _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From pethier at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 10:54:30 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 16:54:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] First ride & shrunken tops In-Reply-To: <688504802.11123651270659257774.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1560737362.11123761270659270738.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Speaking of shrunken tops. The Amco top that came with my TR3 comes > up > about 2" short, across the windscreen, is there any way to stretch > these > back into shape? > > Bill Beecher Assuming is is a vinyl top, a bit of heat is required. Assuming it is black, you can get a jump on the heat by laying it out in the Utah sun. Escalate the process with a heat gun. Keep the heat gun moving. Maybe you can get an assistant to heat-gun the top whilst you apply the stretching action. Once you get it on the car, let it sit on the car for a while. Leaving the top erected in winter storage should prevent this problem next spring. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From lherault at bu.edu Wed Apr 7 11:43:24 2010 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:43:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] First ride & shrunken tops In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001c01cad679$d2c875a0$60d6299b@ad.bu.edu> Sounds like you need the patented ACME Top Stretcher. It is a specially constructed frame to which you snap the leading edge of your top. Mounted to the frame is a small jet engine which pulls the top while the heat of its exhaust softens the vinyl. It's not recommended for indoor use, however. Sincerely, Wyle E. Coyote Message: 4 Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:08:51 -0600 From: Subject: Re: [TR] First ride & shrunken tops To: , Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net, tr3driver at ca.rr.com Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Speaking of shrunken tops. The Amco top that came with my TR3 comes up about 2" short, across the windscreen, is there any way to stretch these back into shape? From tr4zest at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 11:56:12 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:56:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 138 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: From: Subject: Re: [TR] Rear oil seal leak To: , , Don't you have a vented oil filler cap on your TR4? If there is excessive crankcase pressure, this should handle it easily without have to add the vent from the TR3, which can be another source of oil leaks unto itself. Regards, Bill Beecher My TR4 has both the breather cap and the block vent. I thought that while the cap allows pressure to escape from the head, the position of the vent tube 'out in the wind' was to draw gases from the crankcase through some sort of pressure drop at the end of the tube as the car moves. I may be wrong. Brian From wbeech at flash.net Wed Apr 7 13:03:11 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:03:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 138 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I was thinking that the head and crankcase were connected enough that the pressure was equalized. Through the pushrod passages? Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Jones Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:56 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 138 From: Subject: Re: [TR] Rear oil seal leak To: , , Don't you have a vented oil filler cap on your TR4? If there is excessive crankcase pressure, this should handle it easily without have to add the vent from the TR3, which can be another source of oil leaks unto itself. Regards, Bill Beecher My TR4 has both the breather cap and the block vent. I thought that while the cap allows pressure to escape from the head, the position of the vent tube 'out in the wind' was to draw gases from the crankcase through some sort of pressure drop at the end of the tube as the car moves. I may be wrong. Brian _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Wed Apr 7 13:03:11 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:03:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] First ride & shrunken tops In-Reply-To: <001c01cad679$d2c875a0$60d6299b@ad.bu.edu> References: <001c01cad679$d2c875a0$60d6299b@ad.bu.edu> Message-ID: <078B39D310274AFA9A6254C29125C6A1@bboffice> Indeed! Where do I send the check. I was thinking of hanging it from a tree in the sun with some weights tied to it. BB -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron L'Herault Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:43 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] First ride & shrunken tops Sounds like you need the patented ACME Top Stretcher. It is a specially constructed frame to which you snap the leading edge of your top. Mounted to the frame is a small jet engine which pulls the top while the heat of its exhaust softens the vinyl. It's not recommended for indoor use, however. Sincerely, Wyle E. Coyote Message: 4 Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:08:51 -0600 From: Subject: Re: [TR] First ride & shrunken tops To: , Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net, tr3driver at ca.rr.com Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Speaking of shrunken tops. The Amco top that came with my TR3 comes up about 2" short, across the windscreen, is there any way to stretch these back into shape? _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 14:44:03 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 14:44:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Stretching your top In-Reply-To: <078B39D310274AFA9A6254C29125C6A1@bboffice> References: <001c01cad679$d2c875a0$60d6299b@ad.bu.edu> <078B39D310274AFA9A6254C29125C6A1@bboffice> Message-ID: Since my top is down most of the year except for the long trips I always have to stretch it before those trips. I put the top up and pile all my manuals and magazines on it a few weeks before leaving and it stretches enough so the velcro on the sides actually holds. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Apr 7, 2010, at 1:03 PM, wrote: > Indeed! Where do I send the check. > > I was thinking of hanging it from a tree in the sun with some > weights tied > to it. > > BB > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron L'Herault > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:43 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] First ride & shrunken tops > > Sounds like you need the patented ACME Top Stretcher. It is a > specially > constructed frame to which you snap the leading edge of your top. > Mounted > to the frame is a small jet engine which pulls the top while the > heat of its > exhaust softens the vinyl. It's not recommended for indoor use, > however. > > Sincerely, > > Wyle E. Coyote > > Message: 4 > Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:08:51 -0600 > From: > Subject: Re: [TR] First ride & shrunken tops > To: , > Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net, tr3driver at ca.rr.com > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Speaking of shrunken tops. The Amco top that came with my TR3 comes > up > about 2" short, across the windscreen, is there any way to stretch > these > back into shape? > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 7 15:00:42 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 14:00:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 138 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201401cad695$64012bf0$2c0383d0$@rr.com> > I was thinking that the head and crankcase were connected enough that > the > pressure was equalized. Through the pushrod passages? Exactly so; although if the rings are in really bad shape, there may be enough blowby to develop some pressure against the restriction of the pushrod tubes. But the OP said he had a TR4A with a PCV valve, which means it also at least had a sealed filler cap. Triumph's idea of "positive crankcase ventilation" was to seal up the crankcase (and rocker shaft area), with the only exit being through a tiny orifice in the PCV valve to the intake manifold. This arrangement totally fails to address what happens at full throttle, when blowby is maximum and there is no manifold vacuum to speak of. The answer of course, is that the pressure blows oil out through any tiny gap, like that in the labyrinth rear main seal (and typically the rocker gasket as well). -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 15:31:45 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 21:31:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Rear oil seal leak In-Reply-To: <8CCA45EACD1717B-1120-E69@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <538493321.14591231270675905286.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Has anyone got a spare hanging round their garage they have no use for that >I could buy? Two things: One, I switched to "text" for e-mail. Does that solve the problem of the indiscriminate "B"s that appeared in my e-mails? Two, You might try Mike in Vermont. He has (had) a barn full of TR3 parts,lots of NOD electricals too. (802) 439-5815. I haven't been in contact with him for several years, so I don't know if he's still doing business. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A Gonna have to pound out the oil pan this weekend, try to stop the oil leaks. Same with the valve cover. From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 15:35:16 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 21:35:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Rear oil seal leak In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1720217798.14592301270676116211.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >If there is excessive >crankcase pressure, this should handle it easily without have to add the >vent from the TR3, which can be another source of oil leaks unto itself. Uh oh. Is the vent tube on the TR3 a source of significant oil leaks? Could change the dimensions around what I need to check for on my own. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hamsphire (where I'd like to earn my way back into the parking garage at work). From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 15:38:03 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 21:38:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stretching your top In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4518096.14593061270676283321.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Since my top is down most of the year except for the long trips I >always have to stretch it before those trips. NFI and all that, but I have to say that the Sunfast top I picked up at TRF for this very reason has surpassed expectations. First fit first year is the same as gajillionth fit, 6th year. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Apr 7 15:58:56 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 14:58:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear license plate lamp Message-ID: <554349.8523.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Finally trial fitted the rear license plate lamp on my tr-3 resto. Amazingly it doesn't seem to be even close to fitting. The holes line up but the nuts holding the lamp on are several sizes smaller than the holes in the body. Also the lamp hangs down below the opening for the spare tire opening, interfering with the spare tire cover. Or maybe the spare tire cover slides up behind the license plate lamp when installed? I'm thinking maybe I'm missing a plate of some kind that attaches to the car body........which then the license plate lamp attaches too? Could someone check they're tr-3? thanks!! gary n. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 7 16:22:23 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 15:22:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering column diameter Message-ID: <204301cad6a0$cc1bb600$64532200$@rr.com> Anyone know offhand the diameter of the TR3 steering column, where it fits through the felt bush just under the steering wheel? I'm thinking of replacing the felt with Delrin, and if I can order in the next half hour it will be cheaper to get it delivered on Friday. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 7 16:25:50 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 15:25:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear oil seal leak In-Reply-To: <538493321.14591231270675905286.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <8CCA45EACD1717B-1120-E69@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> <538493321.14591231270675905286.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <204801cad6a1$47e1a790$d7a4f6b0$@rr.com> > One, I switched to "text" for e-mail. Does that solve the problem of > the indiscriminate "B"s that appeared in my e-mails? Looks good from here, Terry. Thanks! I'll have to look to be certain, but I've probably got a road draft tube or three, lying about somewhere. If nothing else, I could start parting out the engine I removed from TS39781LO (which was actually a much earlier short block), which is currently sitting in the middle of the garage floor with the hoist resting on top of it. -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Apr 7 16:44:21 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 18:44:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stretching your top In-Reply-To: <4518096.14593061270676283321.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <4518096.14593061270676283321.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <201004071844.21326.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 07 April 2010 05:38:03 pm terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > >Since my top is down most of the year except for the long trips I > >always have to stretch it before those trips. > > NFI and all that, but I have to say that the Sunfast top I picked up at TRF > for this very reason has surpassed expectations. First fit first year is > the same as gajillionth fit, 6th year. > I have a Robbins on my 58 3 and it fits the same today as it did when I got it for Christmas back in 88 from TRF. I have an original hoodstick cover for the 3 and it still fits just fine. It is showing its age but still looks ok. I was able to get a AMCO top for my TR4 on EBAY. It was NOS still in the box and the seller said he purchased a bunch of tops when AMCO went out of business back in the early 90's. Well it cost me about 100 $ + shipping and the fit was perfect in every way. I could not tell that it was over 18 years old already! This year makes the 4th season for the 4 since its restoration and the top still fits the same as the first time it was installed. Bob From tr4zest at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 17:07:00 2010 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 19:07:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch Message-ID: Could the Listerati help me understand where the reversing light switch is located and how it is wired - what colour wire, what route, where does it picks up power. I imagine the lamp is grounded where it mounts, but if not, please let me know. Was the reversing light fitted to the left or right of the licence plate on US TR4s. Perhaps the lamp mounted to a bumper bracket? A photograph of an original installation would be very welcome. Moss lists this item as 140-470. Their current catalogue has the item on page 93, right at the bottom of the page. Cheers all, and what a delight it is to have our cars back on the road (its also nice to walk outside and not get wet or slip on your arse: what a winter this was on the East Coast, eh?). Next year, I should follow the Geese. Oh right.. work... Someday! Brian Valley Forge Delaware Valley Triumphs, AMOC Triumph TR4 1962 Aston Martin DB7 Vantage Volante 2001 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 7 17:17:48 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 16:17:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear license plate lamp In-Reply-To: <554349.8523.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <554349.8523.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <205901cad6a8$8a2af000$9e80d000$@rr.com> Does this help? http://tinyurl.com/y8r5hp4 -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Apr 7 17:36:52 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 18:36:52 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 steering column diameter Message-ID: <2111608900.1546535.1270683412124.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net> at the point where the steering head ends and the column is first visible it is .875 measured with a caliper. I don't have a column without a wheel on it so I don't know if it changes from that point to the end of the column Apr 7, 2010 11:13:42 PM, tr3driver at ca.rr.com wrote: Anyone know offhand the diameter of the TR3 steering column, where it fits through the felt bush just under the steering wheel? I'm thinking of replacing the felt with Delrin, and if I can order in the next half hour it will be cheaper to get it delivered on Friday. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Apr 7 17:49:36 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 19:49:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear license plate lamp In-Reply-To: <554349.8523.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <554349.8523.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CCA4C41D286B54-1B10-37F6@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Gary Nafziger Finally trial fitted the rear license plate lamp on my tr-3 resto. Amazingly it doesn't seem to be even close to fitting. The holes line up but the nuts holding the lamp on are several sizes smaller than the holes in the body. Also the lamp hangs down below the opening for the spare tire opening, interfering with the spare tire cover. Or maybe the spare tire cover slides up behind the license plate lamp when installed? I'm thinking maybe I'm missing a plate of some kind that attaches to the car body........which then the license plate lamp attaches too? ==AM== Some Triumphs had "plinths" for the license plate lamps (notably early Spitfires and GT6s, as well as Heralds), but the TR3 didn't. Are we talking about the chromed L467/2 lamp, as in this link? As luck would have it, I still have the remains of a post-60000 TR3A. There are two holes, roughly 1/2" in diameter, about 3 1/4" on center. The bottom of those holes is about 3/8" from the top edge of the spare tire well opening. Above those two large holes are two smaller holes, maybe 1/8" in diameter, that I believe are for the mounting studs of the lamp. (I believe the larger holes are for wiring?) Actually, it doesn't matter, because the earlier L525 stop/license plate lamp also mounted directly to the body. Makes me wonder if some PO modified your rear apron for a different lamp? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed Apr 7 18:03:31 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 20:03:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 138 References: Message-ID: Brian, you are correct, the vent tube draws fumes and of course pressure out by the vacuum created by the air moving past it as you drive down the road. However Bill's comment is not entirely accurate. The design of the interior of the block as well as the tube itself limits the amount of oil that can actually be drawn out. What does escape is really very minor. The 4A system does not use a vented cap or the draft tube. > > Don't you have a vented oil filler cap on your TR4? If there is excessive > crankcase pressure, this should handle it easily without have to add the > vent from the TR3, which can be another source of oil leaks unto itself. > Regards, > Bill Beecher > > My TR4 has both the breather cap and the block vent. I thought that while > the cap allows pressure to escape from the head, the position of the vent > tube 'out in the wind' was to draw gases from the crankcase through some > sort of pressure drop at the end of the tube as the car moves. I may be > wrong. > > Brian > > _______________________________________________ From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed Apr 7 18:11:12 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 20:11:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch References: Message-ID: You need to modify the top cover of your gearbox and fit an overdrive isolator switch or change to a TR250 or TR6 top cover. I mounted mine under the bumper on the left side. Wire color was green on the lamp I purchased, routing is your choice, I went into the trunk and then followed the route of the license plate lamps. I've seen photos of single lamps and duel lamps mounted above and below the bumper. I don't know if there is an "official" spot and number however. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Jones" To: "email list" Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:07 PM Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch > Could the Listerati help me understand where the reversing light switch is > located and how it is wired - what colour wire, what route, where does it > picks up power. I imagine the lamp is grounded where it mounts, but if > not, > please let me know. Was the reversing light fitted to the left or right of > the licence plate on US TR4s. Perhaps the lamp mounted to a bumper > bracket? > A photograph of an original installation would be very welcome. > > Moss lists this item as 140-470. Their current catalogue has the item on > page 93, right at the bottom of the page. > > Cheers all, and what a delight it is to have our cars back on the road > (its > also nice to walk outside and not get wet or slip on your arse: what a > winter this was on the East Coast, eh?). > > Next year, I should follow the Geese. Oh right.. work... > > Someday! > > Brian > Valley Forge > Delaware Valley Triumphs, AMOC > > Triumph TR4 1962 > Aston Martin DB7 Vantage Volante 2001 > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 18:24:30 2010 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:24:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering column diameter References: <204301cad6a0$cc1bb600$64532200$@rr.com> Message-ID: If you mean the shaft that the steering wheel fits onto, it's 3/4" where it enters the tube that goes through the firewall - per my measurement. Sorry, I don't think I made the 1/2 hour time limit. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 3:22 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 steering column diameter > Anyone know offhand the diameter of the TR3 steering column, where it fits > through the felt bush just under the steering wheel? > > > > I'm thinking of replacing the felt with Delrin, and if I can order in the > next half hour it will be cheaper to get it delivered on Friday. > > > > -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 7 18:59:48 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:59:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <209101cad6b6$ca6b1dd0$5f415970$@rr.com> I could be mistaken, but I believe the reversing light was not standard on TR4, at least not early ones. They became required for the US market at some point, but not until 1965 I believe (which would be TR4A). The operating switch goes in the transmission top cover. See illustration CK1 at http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6bluebook/82.php (That's a TR6 illustration, but the location is the same.) Should have a green wire supplying power, and a green/brown to the lamp. Sorry, I can't help with routing or mounting. -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 19:41:54 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 18:41:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear license plate lamp In-Reply-To: <554349.8523.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <554349.8523.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: See if this is useful. My restorer thoughtfully welded up those holes so I had a couple of photos to work from, 1 from a 'before' photo of my car and 2 from a friend's project. http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/holes1.JPG http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/holes8.JPG http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/holes9.JPG Geo From banjonut at verizon.net Wed Apr 7 20:16:51 2010 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 19:16:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alloy oil sump Message-ID: <9513FC2A54EA4F72B1E59D0048525DF9@HAMPC> Hello to the list, I am looking for a cast alloy oil sump for TR3-4 engine, and I'm not having much luck. I talked with Ken at BFE, and he doesn't carry them anymore, Moss doesn't have them, TRF has one listed but it's $800 (I know they're expensive but that's over my budget). I sent an email to Darryl at Racestorations in the UK but haven't received a reply. Does anybody know where to get one in the U.S.? Does anybody know of a used one for sale? Please copy any replies to my home email: banjonut at verizon.net since I get the digest form of the list. Thanks for any help, Steve Ball Lompoc CA '60 TR3A TS68164L From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Apr 7 21:06:46 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 23:06:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear license plate lamp In-Reply-To: References: <554349.8523.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CCA4DFA8BD8161-1B10-57D5@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com> Geo, those photos match nicely what I was trying to describe in my earlier post. Only difference is that, for whatever reason, my parts car has two of the large holes; both look "factory" but it's hard to tell! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Geo Hahn See if this is useful. My restorer thoughtfully welded up those holes so I had a couple of photos to work from, 1 from a 'before' photo of my car and 2 from a friend's project. http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/holes1.JPG http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/holes8.JPG http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/holes9.JPG From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Apr 7 21:12:02 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 23:12:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch In-Reply-To: <209101cad6b6$ca6b1dd0$5f415970$@rr.com> References: <209101cad6b6$ca6b1dd0$5f415970$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CCA4E06505F2DA-1B10-5888@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com> Randall, I think that any "Federal" requirement for backup lights, at least on imports, came later. I admit that I'm not so familiar with late TR4A models (some of which stayed around dealers and distributors long enough to be price listed well into 1968), but it wasn't until the Mk3 of 1967 that backup lights were standard equipment on Spitfires. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Randall To: 'email list' Sent: Wed, Apr 7, 2010 8:59 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch I could be mistaken, but I believe the reversing light was not standard on TR4, at least not early ones. They became required for the US market at some point, but not until 1965 I believe (which would be TR4A). From wbeech at flash.net Wed Apr 7 21:29:20 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 21:29:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear license plate lamp In-Reply-To: <554349.8523.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <554349.8523.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, Look around just above those big holes and you should find the smaller holes(or remnants of them) for mounting the fixture. The big hole is for the wiring. The fixture should mount just above the spare cover, and you should not have to tuck it under the light fixture to close it. Hope this helps, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 3:59 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear license plate lamp Finally trial fitted the rear license plate lamp on my tr-3 resto. Amazingly it doesn't seem to be even close to fitting. The holes line up but the nuts holding the lamp on are several sizes smaller than the holes in the body. Also the lamp hangs down below the opening for the spare tire opening, interfering with the spare tire cover. Or maybe the spare tire cover slides up behind the license plate lamp when installed? I'm thinking maybe I'm missing a plate of some kind that attaches to the car body........which then the license plate lamp attaches too? Could someone check they're tr-3? thanks!! gary n. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Wed Apr 7 22:15:41 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 22:15:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rear oil seal leak In-Reply-To: <1720217798.14592301270676116211.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1720217798.14592301270676116211.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <36617CF70513463FAA4C1C560C8ABF14@bboffice> Terry, Last year it did not leak at all, this year after yet another dis-assembly I am seeing just a minor bit of seepage/dampness where it fits to the block. I am going to loosen everything and re-set it in the block hole and see if that cures the problem. Sadly, I think the rear main is still the on-going problem child! Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: terryrs at comcast.net [mailto:terryrs at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 3:35 PM To: wbeech at flash.net Cc: dave1massey at cs.com; david brister; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Rear oil seal leak >If there is excessive >crankcase pressure, this should handle it easily without have to add >the vent from the TR3, which can be another source of oil leaks unto itself. Uh oh. Is the vent tube on the TR3 a source of significant oil leaks? Could change the dimensions around what I need to check for on my own. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hamsphire (where I'd like to earn my way back into the parking garage at work). From wbeech at flash.net Wed Apr 7 22:15:41 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 22:15:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear license plate lamp In-Reply-To: <8CCA4DFA8BD8161-1B10-57D5@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com> References: <554349.8523.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <8CCA4DFA8BD8161-1B10-57D5@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Andy, My car has two large factory-looking holes as well, I only use one for the wires. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Mace Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 9:07 PM To: ahwahneetr at gmail.com; nafzigerg at yahoo.com Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 rear license plate lamp Geo, those photos match nicely what I was trying to describe in my earlier post. Only difference is that, for whatever reason, my parts car has two of the large holes; both look "factory" but it's hard to tell! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Geo Hahn See if this is useful. My restorer thoughtfully welded up those holes so I had a couple of photos to work from, 1 from a 'before' photo of my car and 2 from a friend's project. http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/holes1.JPG http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/holes8.JPG http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/holes9.JPG _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 7 22:23:52 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 21:23:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch In-Reply-To: <8CCA4E06505F2DA-1B10-5888@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com> References: <209101cad6b6$ca6b1dd0$5f415970$@rr.com> <8CCA4E06505F2DA-1B10-5888@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <0a7b01cad6d3$4b9bddb0$0301a8c0@randall> > Randall, I think that any "Federal" requirement for backup > lights, at least > on imports, came later. I'm sure you're right, Andy. I actually meant to say "until at least 1965" as I once owned a 64 Plymouth that didn't have them. At least that's my story, and I'm sticking to it! Randall From rawanderer at comcast.net Thu Apr 8 05:40:14 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 11:40:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch In-Reply-To: <0a7b01cad6d3$4b9bddb0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1474150981.12949961270726814343.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> My family bought a new 1964 Chevy and I remember my father having to pay extra to get backup lights as they were optional! My new 1967 Mustang and new 1971 MGBGT had backup lights.B I don't think they were optional as I don't recall being asked if I wanted them or not. BobW Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia) Member, Delaware Vlley Triumphs 1974 TR6 (currently at my mechanic getting ready for the new season so I missed most of the 80+ degree weather southeast Pennsylvania's been enjoying [and it ends tonight]) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2010 12:23:52 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch > B Randall, I think that any "Federal" requirement for backup > lights, at least > on imports, came later. I'm sure you're right, Andy. B I actually meant to say "until at least 1965" as I once owned a 64 Plymouth that didn't have them. At least that's my story, and I'm sticking to it! Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 8 05:57:46 2010 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 11:57:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] Crankcase venting. In-Reply-To: <204801cad6a1$47e1a790$d7a4f6b0$@rr.com> References: <8CCA45EACD1717B-1120-E69@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>, <538493321.14591231270675905286.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>, <204801cad6a1$47e1a790$d7a4f6b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: I would like to weigh in a little. When building a dry sump engine for racing one of the sections of the pump is dedicated to pulling a vacuum off the crankcase. The goal is not to equalize pressure between the head and crankcase but to eliminate the pressure. Best regards, Tom > From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 15:25:50 -0700 > Subject: Re: [TR] Rear oil seal leak > > > One, I switched to "text" for e-mail. Does that solve the problem of > > the indiscriminate "B"s that appeared in my e-mails? > > Looks good from here, Terry. Thanks! > > I'll have to look to be certain, but I've probably got a road draft tube or > three, lying about somewhere. If nothing else, I could start parting out > the engine I removed from TS39781LO (which was actually a much earlier short > block), which is currently sitting in the middle of the garage floor with > the hoist resting on top of it. > > -- Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From cartr4a at ameritech.net Thu Apr 8 07:04:23 2010 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 06:04:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch In-Reply-To: <1474150981.12949961270726814343.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <213739.99066.qm@web80206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I just bought a '66 Mustang and backup lights are listed as an option in the owners manual. Jim '66 Mustang Now Triumphless --- On Thu, 4/8/10, Bob Wanderer wrote: From: Bob Wanderer Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch To: "Randall" Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, April 8, 2010, 6:40 AM My family bought a new 1964 Chevy and I remember my father having to pay extra to get backup lights as they were optional! My new 1967 Mustang and new 1971 MGBGT had backup lights.B I don't think they were optional as I don't recall being asked if I wanted them or not. BobW Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia) Member, Delaware Vlley Triumphs 1974 TR6 (currently at my mechanic getting ready for the new season so I missed most of the 80+ degree weather southeast Pennsylvania's been enjoying [and it ends tonight]) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2010 12:23:52 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch > B Randall, I think that any "Federal" requirement for backup > lights, at least > on imports, came later. I'm sure you're right, Andy. B I actually meant to say "until at least 1965" as I once owned a 64 Plymouth that didn't have them. At least that's my story, and I'm sticking to it! Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cartr4a at ameritech.net From cartr4a at ameritech.net Thu Apr 8 07:07:29 2010 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 06:07:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch In-Reply-To: <1474150981.12949961270726814343.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <679141.19756.qm@web80207.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I just bought a '66 Mustang and backup lights are shown as an option in the owner's manual. Jim '66 Mustang Now Triumphless From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Apr 8 07:40:13 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 06:40:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear license plate light-problem solved Message-ID: <19771.95699.qm@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Duh..... I've found the problem! I'd been skimming my body with bondo getting ready for paint and inadvertently covered the upper two mounting holes with bondo. I just checked from inside the trunk and discovered my problem! thanks for all your help from the list! gary n. From dkspence at telus.net Thu Apr 8 07:56:57 2010 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 07:56:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] The Lone Ranger drove an MGB?...Say it isn't so In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: "I went on to Kijiji Edmonton and I've found The Lone Rangers MGB. Yes, he obviously had a MGB at one time and lived in Wetaskawin... Here's the ad and you'll see what I mean.. runs well, new battery, new exhaust, new ignition, new starter, good summer car, includes tonto. Need I, indeed should I say more? " From bkahler1 at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 08:34:23 2010 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 10:34:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Fot] HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A718C54@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local> References: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A718C54@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local> Message-ID: Listers, Can someone possibly help Mark out?! Brad (off to VIR in an hour) ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info Date: Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 9:45 AM Subject: [Fot] HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To: fot at autox.team.net Morning FOTer's, As always posting because I need help, having owned a Spit and a TR6 back in the "day" I sold my Shelby race car and started racing a Spit, love it but I am sort of out of it as compared to the Ford parts and where to get what and what fits what and such. So back to my problem, going like a mad man with NDA shipments and such to get ready to reinstall my originally incorrectly made Summer Brothers axles and while doing that I was going to upgrade to GT6 rear drums. As you know the only way to get the backing plates changed is to ruin a bearing locking ring, maybe ruin a bearing and have to totally take out both axles, hubs etc etc. Anyway got all my parts in painted prepped and waiting on Summer Brothers to send my now hopefully correctly re done axles back NDA yesterday. Got'em in left the office and went home to put it all together and planned leave this AM for VIR and the VDCA race. All my buddies left Wed and I was to catch up. Well I get the 7/16" race wheel studs pressed in and spot welded in place and I am ready to drop on the 4 bolt flange with the axle seal followed by the brake backing plates and guess what, the bolt pattern on the backing plates I was sent is off by at least 1/2" !!!!! Turns out they are Rotoflex backing plates and not the ones that match the Spitfire 4 bolt pattern. So I spend a couple of hours calling everyone I know (especially west coast places as I need them NDA today) and no one has/will take the time/or whatever) to see if they have any. So VIR and the VCDA is out. But I still need the right backing plates. So does anyone have any they would sell to me? They backing plates have a 2.0" center hole, the smaller Spit bolt pattern around 2 3/8" center to center measurement and are for the 8" x 1.5" shoe size. They have the same wheel cylinder as a Spit and also the same manual brake adjuster set up. By the way the GT6 parts car I have has 8" x 1.5" drum brakes if anyone needs them, they are "supposedly" rare??? Price can be REALLY right as I need to re coup all the NDA charges I spent on nothing now that VIR is out!!!! Thanks from Brakeless in Tennessee!! Hoping the "List" can help! Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, INC. 411 Allied Drive Nashville, TN 37211 866-455-7788 Phone 615-834-9923 Fax www.dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bkahler1 at gmail.com From wensley_tr at comcast.net Thu Apr 8 08:52:27 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 10:52:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] The Lone Ranger drove an MGB?...Say it isn't so In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009101cad72b$1b7ddf40$52799dc0$@net> Yap where's the ad Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Spence Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:57 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] The Lone Ranger drove an MGB?...Say it isn't so "I went on to Kijiji Edmonton and I've found The Lone Rangers MGB. Yes, he obviously had a MGB at one time and lived in Wetaskawin... Here's the ad and you'll see what I mean.. runs well, new battery, new exhaust, new ignition, new starter, good summer car, includes tonto. Need I, indeed should I say more? " _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 8 09:00:23 2010 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:00:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] The Lone Ranger drove an MGB?...Say it isn't so In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <243617.2048.qm@web81708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> That's why he had Silver. He needed reliable transportation. ----- Original Message ---- From: Don Spence To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, April 8, 2010 8:56:57 AM Subject: [TR] The Lone Ranger drove an MGB?...Say it isn't so "I went on to Kijiji Edmonton and I've found The Lone Rangers MGB. Yes, he obviously had a MGB at one time and lived in Wetaskawin... Here's the ad and you'll see what I mean.. runs well, new battery, new exhaust, new ignition, new starter, good summer car, includes tonto. Need I, indeed should I say more? " _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kajohns64 at yahoo.com From OC at 46thFoot.com Thu Apr 8 10:20:06 2010 From: OC at 46thFoot.com (Michael Hargreave Mawson) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 17:20:06 +0100 Subject: [TR] Triumph Acclaim exhaust part urgently needed in UK - HELP! Message-ID: Dear All, Desperately seeking the rear silencer for an '84 Acclaim - Bosal part number 281-995 (the sleeved one, not the one with three bolts)) - and I cannot find one anywhere. It would be a tragedy to have to scrap a near-perfect car because of a (*&^%$%^&* silencer, but it is looking horribly possible. ATB -- Mike Lisa - 1935 Green Standard Ten Saloon De Luxe 175469 DL Ellie - 1963 White Triumph Herald 1200 Convertible GA125624 CV Vicky - 1977 Russet Brown Triumph 2500S Automatic Estate MP6711 SCA Andrea - 1983 Cashmere Gold Avon Triumph Acclaim CD SAXXDELX3BM193237 Aneka - 1984 Cashmere Gold Triumph Acclaim CD SAXXDELX7BM232714 From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Apr 8 11:47:12 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 13:47:12 EDT Subject: [TR] CRANKCASE VENTILATION Message-ID: <292f.7fc1b556.38ef70a0@cs.com> List, Kas Kastner has another book coming out about mid 2010. One of the chapters deals with Crankcase Ventilation. It should be very useful for both race and street drivers. One premise is that you need all of the ventilation that you can get in a TR3/4 and it is usually a benefit to any engine. For my race engines, I use the stock OEM scroll seal carefully located. Then I have a system that induces negative crankcase pressure. In addition to eliminating crank seal leaks, it reduces the oil and air turbulence in the block, and promotes ring sealing. This is not a new idea and certainly not my invention. And the cost to do it is negligible. My undercarriage went from embarassingly wet at the end of the race weekend, to dry, with no significant oil drips during the trailer trip home. A welcome relief. So thus it has been for over ten years. The system has been approved by SVRA and accepted by VSCDA and others during tech. It comes from the stock car and drag strip folks....folks who tend to be very clever. Look at the Summit catalog and find Crank Case Ventilation kits. The kit contains a system for V-8s so you can do two Triumphs. Just do a little welding and add a high temp hose. Buy Kas' book when it comes out.....it is also going to have an enormous amount of performance content. A book signing is planned at Heartland Park in Topeka in August...and the Kastner Cup Race will be held. And much more. Joe A Subject: [TR] Crankcase venting. To: Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I would like to weigh in a little. When building a dry sump engine for racing one of the sections of the pump is dedicated to pulling a vacuum off the crankcase. The goal is not to equalize pressure between the head and crankcase but to eliminate the pressure. Best regards, From cbhlouky at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 8 12:56:22 2010 From: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net (Craig Holmes) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 11:56:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] access doors in tranny covers Message-ID: <177279.25867.qm@web83803.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> has anyone ever installed nice looking, well functioning access doors to the tranny filler plug and/or the clutchslave bleeder valve? I have a 1978 Spitfire and I was going to replace the original coover with a new abs unit that I've insulated and expect it to last another 40 years. Any help on the doors???? Craig Holmes 78 Spitfire+ghosts of many TR6s cbhlouky at bellsouth.net From lbc.resto at verizon.net Thu Apr 8 14:23:01 2010 From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 16:23:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Speedometer Cable Message-ID: What route does the cable take from a non-od gearbox to the gauge? Thanks -- Ian 62 TR4 From pethier at comcast.net Thu Apr 8 14:23:50 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:23:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch In-Reply-To: <0a7b01cad6d3$4b9bddb0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <686309798.11738941270758230355.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Spridgets didn't get backup lights in the USA until they went convertble and 1275cc in 1968. I'm thinking that it might have been the federal law that kicked in on January first 1968 that made the change. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From pethier at comcast.net Thu Apr 8 15:06:26 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:06:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Rear oil seal leak In-Reply-To: <538493321.14591231270675905286.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1005717240.11760901270760786852.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > One, I switched to "text" for e-mail. Does that solve the problem of > the indiscriminate "B"s that appeared in my e-mails? Yes. Thank You. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From banjonut at verizon.net Fri Apr 9 00:06:06 2010 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 23:06:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] alloy oil sump Message-ID: Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions and gave inputs to the search for an alloy oil sump for my TR3A. I researched several options and decided for a number of reasons to go with one from Racestorations, in the UK (Darryl Uprichard). Believe me, I have no financial interest in any of this, but I liked his product....and the price was good. If anyone wants to discuss this off-list I can be contacted at the email address below. Thanks again for your help. As usual, the list came through for us again. Steve Ball Lompoc Ca '60 TR3A email: banjonut at verizon.net From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Fri Apr 9 03:15:25 2010 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:15:25 +0200 Subject: [TR] Crankcase ventilation Message-ID: <927668AC13DA433DB35511306364E881@Study> Thank youi all who have weighed in with suggestions and offers of a suitable TR3/4 pipe. I was talking to a man in UK who builds race engines and he said that his workshop normally remove the fuel pump and fit an electric one. Then they make a pump blanking plate which incorporates a vent pipe of two inches diameter. Clearly one cannot overvent a middle aged TR engine! Of course YMMV, David Brister 1976 TR4A (Rapidly becoming non original!) -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 6230 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Apr 9 07:31:14 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:31:14 EDT Subject: [TR] Crankcase Evacuation Message-ID: <35f9b.76cb9dfd.38f08622@cs.com> List, On a prior topic....use Crankcase Evacuation instead of Ventilation, when you google. The systems are available from Jegs, Moroso, and Summit....and more. They are all the same but the price varies....about $30 for both sides of a V-8. Add high temp hose and plug it into the valve cover. It operates on the simple vacuum principle by drawing it from the exhaust system I have avoided this topic earlier because of the potential for unwanted controversy. but with the articles contained in Google I wont have to spend any time defending it. Besides, it works. Particularly at higher RPMs. Joe A From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 9 08:09:15 2010 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 07:09:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] people near Santa Cruz? Message-ID: <513862.8532.qm@web51608.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List! I'm looking for someone who lives near Santa Cruz to do me a favor. PLEASE E-mail me back! TIA, -Cosmo Kramer From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Apr 9 08:36:26 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:36:26 EDT Subject: [TR] Picture of Crankcase Evacuation System Message-ID: <98880.dd36c16.38f0956a@cs.com> I forgot....I have a picture. photobucket.com/ambro There is one picture of the system along with several other of my projects. The purpose built Small Bore classic/race car trailer is now available, if any one is interested knowing more about this rather remarkable garageable trailer. My wife's Miata also fits on it. Joe From wayne at motorcarriage.com Fri Apr 9 09:14:40 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:14:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Picture of Crankcase Evacuation System In-Reply-To: <98880.dd36c16.38f0956a@cs.com> References: <98880.dd36c16.38f0956a@cs.com> Message-ID: <19BE193EB6C846BDBF951E446C05E16B@artvac412870f0> Hi Joe, Could You give me some details on the Trailer? Weight roughly and width between Wheel Wells most importantly. Then, of course your selling price and location would be nice. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 10:36 AM To: Subject: [TR] Picture of Crankcase Evacuation System > I forgot....I have a picture. > > photobucket.com/ambro > > There is one picture of the system along with several other of my > projects. > > The purpose built Small Bore classic/race car trailer is now available, if > any one is interested knowing more about this rather remarkable garageable > trailer. > > My wife's Miata also fits on it. > > Joe > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com From OC at 46thFoot.com Fri Apr 9 10:17:25 2010 From: OC at 46thFoot.com (Michael Hargreave Mawson) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 17:17:25 +0100 Subject: [TR] Triumph Acclaim exhaust part urgently needed in UK In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dear All, Many thanks to those who wrote with suggestions. I have now tracked down the necessary part, so all is well (until the next Acclaim owner needs one). For those kind Americans who suggested that I get the parts made up "by my local muffler shop" I'm sorry to say that this is no longer an option in UK, if it ever was. You're more likely to find someone to fabricate a body panel from sheet steel! ATB -- Mike Lisa - 1935 Green Standard Ten Saloon De Luxe 175469 DL Ellie - 1963 White Triumph Herald 1200 Convertible GA125624 CV Vicky - 1977 Russet Brown Triumph 2500S Automatic Estate MP6711 SCA Andrea - 1983 Cashmere Gold Avon Triumph Acclaim CD SAXXDELX3BM193237 Aneka - 1984 Cashmere Gold Triumph Acclaim CD SAXXDELX7BM232714 From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Apr 9 10:57:07 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:57:07 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Triumph_Acclaim_exhaust_part_urgently_needed_in_UK?= Message-ID: <20100409165707.EC92818764A@autox.team.net> Hi guys Looking for a 60 model standard 10 (sold here in the states as a tr10) sedan. Want a nice unmodded one. Best, ray Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Michael Hargreave Mawson" Date: Fri, Apr 9, 2010 11:17 Subject: [TR] Triumph Acclaim exhaust part urgently needed in UK To: Dear All, Many thanks to those who wrote with suggestions. I have now tracked down the necessary part, so all is well (until the next Acclaim owner needs one). For those kind Americans who suggested that I get the parts made up "by my local muffler shop" I'm sorry to say that this is no longer an option in UK, if it ever was. You're more likely to find someone to fabricate a body panel from sheet steel! ATB -- Mike Lisa - 1935 Green Standard Ten Saloon De Luxe 175469 DL Ellie - 1963 White Triumph Herald 1200 Convertible GA125624 CV Vicky - 1977 Russet Brown Triumph 2500S Automatic Estate MP6711 SCA Andrea - 1983 Cashmere Gold Avon Triumph Acclaim CD SAXXDELX3BM193237 Aneka - 1984 Cashmere Gold Triumph Acclaim CD SAXXDELX7BM232714 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From wbeech at flash.net Fri Apr 9 12:35:03 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 12:35:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cust Svc Kudos semi-TR related Message-ID: <328D05DE0431493999A18BC2CF27FC98@bboffice> Last year, toward the end of the season, I bought a bottle of Meguiar's Quick Wax for those fast and easy touch-ups. I really liked the product but when I got it out this year no amount of poking, prodding, squeezing & soaking would get the sprayer to work on the still 90% full bottle. So, I figure what the heck I would call the 800 number on the back and see if they had a proven method of making it work. The guy simply said to peel the label off the front and mail it in with a note and he would replace the sprayer. Well, today I got a surprise, a whole new bottle of Quick Wax in the mail, and only a 2 week turnaround for the whole process. We spend our share of time bashing suppliers when they do a poor job, and I fully agree that we should, but I just wanted to say that the Meguiar's folks really took good care of me quickly and replaced the product above my expectations. Of course NFI on my part. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Apr 9 12:42:29 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:42:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Speedometer Cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As I recall there are some clips along the frame rail that hold both the speedo cable and the hard fuel line. Sorry no pick at this time, but thought that might be the detail you're missing. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Apr 9 12:52:03 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:52:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch In-Reply-To: <686309798.11738941270758230355.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <0a7b01cad6d3$4b9bddb0$0301a8c0@randall> <686309798.11738941270758230355.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Since they were not original on a TR4 I suppose you can put them anywhere you please. There is a TR4 on eBay at the moment that has a pair of them mounted, using the familiar Lucas clear sidelamps (3rd photo). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/650-Miles-On-Frame-Off-Resto-Hand-Made-Interior-60-Pics_W0QQitemZ250608683839QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a59710b3f I wouldn't bother & not sure how much light they throw (sidelamps are probably designed for 'being seen' rather than 'seeing') but the installation locations are limited on a '4 and these don't look too out of place. Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Apr 9 13:04:40 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 12:04:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Crankcase ventilation In-Reply-To: <927668AC13DA433DB35511306364E881@Study> References: <927668AC13DA433DB35511306364E881@Study> Message-ID: On 4/9/10, David Brister wrote: > Clearly one cannot overvent a middle aged TR engine! Though in the case of a road draft tube... I think the stock version was carefully designed to vent but not suck the oil out of the crankcase. I vaguely recall a tale of some well-meaning mechanic changing the configuration of that tube on a works car (perhaps Ken Richardson's) with diastrous results. Geo From wayne at motorcarriage.com Fri Apr 9 13:18:36 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 15:18:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRAILER In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <027036C0EF2D454882CB248BDACB6E9A@artvac412870f0> Hi Joe, Thanks for the info. I can build one to my Specs as well. I was wondering if it was close and a deal, it would be an advantage over buying material etc. I want one that can handle my Formula Ford but also handle the weight of 2500 lbs. or so for my other Cars. I'd like to make one with side panels that could hold Cross Hoops for Canvas to go with the Canvas Cover of my ex British Leyland Service Vehicle (Dibbens Garage, Wimborne Dorset) 65 Land Rover 109 Pickup I plan to Tow with. Cheers, Wayne 64 TR4 (project) 69 Spitfire (Solid and Straight Basket Case) 75 TR6 (Daily Driver) -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 2:59 PM To: ; Cc: Subject: [TR] TRAILER > Tony & Wayne, > > Walt Tournier can and will build to your specs. You want wider or deck > plate down center...it's done. With tweaking of components GVWR can be > raised, > too. > > Tony, I drove the AMBRO today and expect to run it at Heartland Park > (Topeka, KS) in August. I had it out to Portland, last year, where Kas & I > used it > as the Pace Car for the Kastner Cup, but I have done a lot of revisions > since then. > > I will copy another note I sent out earlier, to save time. And attach > specification of my trailer. Joe Alexander > Jesup, Iowa > > Bob, > > Always a pleasure to hear from the Delaware Triumphs. > > I put together a set of performance specifications for our cars and the > possibility of using smaller vehicles for towing. The best towing > experience I > have had is with two other trailers similar to this. > > I also have an enclosed trailer....not so much fun. > > Attached is a worksheet I put together on my trailer....it is subject to > change and addition. > > I can quote a trailer to you based on what you want, but $1875 will get > you > a serviceable base trailer. The axles and tires are rated to 3500# and > the > base trailer would weigh in at the wheels at about 1000#...a bit more. > (Axle can be uprated to 4400# as Henry Frye (CT) wants to trailer his > Stag, > too) > Not much difference in price. > > Mine does not have electric brakes. Most would prefer it, or states will > require it but I am pulling with a Denali and a motorhome. > > You can specify a color, btw. > > The fairings for the front and fenders are not cheap, but I wanted them > for > my trailer. I also wanted the alloy wheels. I plan to race the AMBRO, but > also wanted to show it off as I also have the body kits for sale. > > My trailer cost me $3192 the way I specified it. > > The fabricator of the trailer has never gone outside the city limits with > sales. He has never had to. He would like to build more of these, now, at > my > urging. I could submit your specs and follow your build. I might charge a > small fee for this, but really have not thought about this. Walt Tournier > is > a local treasure. You can also eat off of his shop floor.... > > I am pretty resourceful with transportation and may have two more trailers > going east to CT and ME. > > I have brought work into Iowa in the past. 'Made In Iowa' is good > business. > > I think I can find time to follow 2-3 builds at a time, but sometime > retirement can be very demanding. > > If you would like to discuss at more detail, I can usually be found at > 319.464.4711. > > Regards, > > Joe Alexander From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Apr 9 14:02:56 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 16:02:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a 60 model standard 10 (Triumph 10) In-Reply-To: <20100409165707.EC92818764A@autox.team.net> References: <20100409165707.EC92818764A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CCA636C73742E9-1820-14FF8@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com> Technically, Ray, there's no such thing as a 1960 model Triumph 10 sedan. Any Triumph 10 titled as a 1960 was actually built earlier; only the wagons continued after 1959 (some remaining in stock long enough to have bee titled as 1961 models!), when the Triumph Herald range was introduced. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: spook01 at comcast.net To: Michael Hargreave Mawson ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Apr 9, 2010 12:57 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Acclaim exhaust part urgently needed in UK Hi guys Looking for a 60 model standard 10 (sold here in the states as a tr10) sedan. Want a nice unmodded one. From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Apr 9 14:07:06 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 16:07:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch In-Reply-To: References: <0a7b01cad6d3$4b9bddb0$0301a8c0@randall><686309798.11738941270758230355.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CCA6375D10A9AE-1820-1509E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com> For whatever it's worth, the L594 backup lights on my old Mk3 Spitfire were some of the best backup lights I've ever had on a car, as they used a single-filament "flasher" bulb rather than the smaller and dimmer "tail" or "sidelamp" bulb. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Geo Hahn Since they were not original on a TR4 I suppose you can put them anywhere you please. There is a TR4 on eBay at the moment that has a pair of them mounted, using the familiar Lucas clear sidelamps (3rd photo). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/650-Miles-On-Frame-Off-Resto-Hand-Made-Interio r-60-Pics_W0QQitemZ250608683839QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a5 9710b3f I wouldn't bother & not sure how much light they throw (sidelamps are probably designed for 'being seen' rather than 'seeing') but the installation locations are limited on a '4 and these don't look too out of place. From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Apr 9 15:26:28 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 21:26:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Crankcase ventilation In-Reply-To: <927668AC13DA433DB35511306364E881@Study> Message-ID: <308535712.15459101270848388142.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Clearly one cannot overvent a middle aged TR engine! Perhaps the discussion happened offlist, or if onlist I missed it. I'm curious. The stock vent for a '3 engine is what, 2" or so? Is there sentiment that this is insufficient for this to balance crank case pressure, even if there's maximum blowby from worn rings? Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Apr 9 18:57:45 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 20:57:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a 60 model standard 10 (Triumph 10) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCA65FF722D3AE-704-12000@Webmail-d115.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: spook01 at comcast.net Perhaps, but I owned one titled as such. Interestingly, when I took it to the UK for three years, they registered it as a 60. Then upon returning to the u.s., Texas did the same thing. Probably more correct to say there were none MADE in 1960. Remember they used to title the cars year as the year in which it sold. Seems strange now, doesn't it? Dmv would have hernias over that sort of thing now! ==AM== Right! The Triumph 10 seems to have coincided with the Standard Ten Gold Star, built from April 1957 to July 1959. Likely you had one of the later ones. As it often took several months from build to arrival in the US, it's very likely it was sold in late 1959 or even early 1960 as a 1960 model! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Fri Apr 9 19:01:33 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 21:01:33 EDT Subject: [TR] Cust Svc Kudos semi-TR related Message-ID: I don't know what NFI means, but a great post anyway! Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, ON K0A 1B0 Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Apr 9 19:03:30 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 19:03:30 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Looking_for_a_60_model_standard_10_=28Triumph_10?= =?utf-8?q?=29?= Message-ID: <20100410010330.A5BCE18764A@autox.team.net> Ok. So now you triumph mavins can help me find one! Best, ray Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Andrew Mace" Date: Fri, Apr 9, 2010 19:57 Subject: [TR] Looking for a 60 model standard 10 (Triumph 10) To: , -----Original Message----- From: spook01 at comcast.net Perhaps, but I owned one titled as such. Interestingly, when I took it to the UK for three years, they registered it as a 60. Then upon returning to the u.s., Texas did the same thing. Probably more correct to say there were none MADE in 1960. Remember they used to title the cars year as the year in which it sold. Seems strange now, doesn't it? Dmv would have hernias over that sort of thing now! ==AM== Right! The Triumph 10 seems to have coincided with the Standard Ten Gold Star, built from April 1957 to July 1959. Likely you had one of the later ones. As it often took several months from build to arrival in the US, it's very likely it was sold in late 1959 or even early 1960 as a 1960 model! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Apr 9 19:18:46 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 21:18:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch References: <0a7b01cad6d3$4b9bddb0$0301a8c0@randall><686309798.11738941270758230355.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <990AAC0FBC8542FDAF3A2403C393D0A1@userb38463fba5> Looks like a TR 250 application to me. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 2:52 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch > Since they were not original on a TR4 I suppose you can put them > anywhere you please. There is a TR4 on eBay at the moment that has a > pair of them mounted, using the familiar Lucas clear sidelamps (3rd > photo). > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/650-Miles-On-Frame-Off-Resto-Hand-Made-Interior-60-Pics_W0QQitemZ250608683839QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a59710b3f > > I wouldn't bother & not sure how much light they throw (sidelamps are > probably designed for 'being seen' rather than 'seeing') but the > installation locations are limited on a '4 and these don't look too > out of place. > > Geo From jhassall at blacksburg.net Fri Apr 9 19:37:37 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 21:37:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Reverse Lamp Switch In-Reply-To: References: <0a7b01cad6d3$4b9bddb0$0301a8c0@randall> <686309798.11738941270758230355.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BBFD661.9090503@blacksburg.net> On 4/9/2010 2:52 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > Since they were not original on a TR4 I suppose you can put them > anywhere you please. There is a TR4 on eBay at the moment that has a > pair of them mounted, using the familiar Lucas clear sidelamps (3rd > The reverse lights *appear* to be the reverse lights used on the TR250, same as I installed on my TR4, which provide plenty of light. I can provide pix (off list, of course) if anyone wants a closer look at them. jim > photo). > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/650-Miles-On-Frame-Off-Resto-Hand-Made-Interior-60-Pics_W0QQitemZ250608683839QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a59710b3f > > I wouldn't bother& not sure how much light they throw (sidelamps are > probably designed for 'being seen' rather than 'seeing') but the > installation locations are limited on a '4 and these don't look too > out of place. > > Geo > > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Apr 9 19:46:50 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 21:46:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cust Svc Kudos semi-TR related In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4BBFA04A.28947.2C492A93@localhost> On 9 Apr 2010 at 21:01, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: > I don't know what NFI means, No Financial Investment. Inotherwords, it's no skin off his nose if you do or don't spend money there. Which is to say it serves notice that the note is not a commercial advertizement. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 9 20:58:07 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 21:58:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr4 In-Reply-To: <4BBFD661.9090503@blacksburg.net> References: <0a7b01cad6d3$4b9bddb0$0301a8c0@randall><686309798.11738941270758230355.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4BBFD661.9090503@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <5ADECA4E77204C3CB3E21243A7094176@ranteer.local> is this a stock color? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/650-Miles-On-Frame-Off-Resto-Hand-Made-Interior-60-Pics_W0QQitemZ250608683839QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a59710b3f From mark at bradakis.com Fri Apr 9 21:01:20 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 21:01:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cust Svc Kudos semi-TR related In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BBFEA00.4000308@bradakis.com> KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: > I don't know what NFI means, but a great post anyway! > > NFI = No Financial Interest It means that he's endorsing a company because he thinks they are good to work with, not because he's getting a cut of the profits. For example, if one of you wrote "Donate to Team.Net, it is great!" the motive would be you enjoy the services provided and would like to see them continue. If *I* wrote "Donate to Team.Net" there is a definite financial interest behind it. I need to make some repairs to my ski chalet in the Alps, all of my Bugattis need oil changes and my mistresses have all been watching the Masters and commenting on how cute Tiger looks and ignoring me. Okay, so maybe I'm stretching the truth a bit. I do, in fact, appreciate those of you who took to heart the recent 'Fools and Funding' message. But it can be difficult sometimes to determine whether somebody is endorsing something out of the goodness of their heart or the thickness of their wallet. mjb. From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Fri Apr 9 21:28:27 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:28:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 prop shaft removal - now exhaust question Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31334DE@CMS01.winhosting.local> Thanks, oh list for the input, especially Dave, Tony, Dick (sorry if I missed anyone who sent a long note): After 18 years since refitting the driveshaft I had sort of forgotten how to get that piece out of the car. The TR6 is the only design I know where in order to remove a u-joint at the differential one must take out the radio. The prop shaft did indeed come out forward more easily. The rear u-joint was very badly beaten up. Considering the effort to get at the shaft, I replaced both joints. Now have been seized by shipwright's disease. Re-building the rotten rear mounting job the shop did when I had them install the j-type conversion a couple of years ago. Started by updating the front engine mounts that were original rubber. Now rather spongy and mostly separated. For another related issue: I have a 6:1 header which has a single pipe passing under the transmission before separating through a Y pipe to two Falcon SS exhausts. (weird, but it seems to work). With my lovely drips from engine (suspect the external head oiling pipe is letting things overflow up top) the transmission housing is dripping right onto that pipe. So, the car smells of buring oil or gas all the time. I was thinking that, since stopping a TR6 from leaking is like standing in the forward hold of the Titanic with a beach pail in hand and saying "No worries; I can fix this!", I would make up a sort of drip protector/heat shield between transmission and exhaust pipe in the affected area. Is there something already available on the market, or is it tinsnips-at-dawn time? Mark 1972 TR6 ________________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com [Dave1massey at cs.com] Sent: April 3, 2010 8:36 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 prop shaft removal In a message dated 4/3/2010 11:32:51 AM Central Daylight Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: > I'm fairly convinced I have a bad U-joint in my TR6's driveline. It's > aggravating that there is not an obviously bad u-joint visually, but I > guess > they aren't that clear until apart. It's gone from a rumble at highway > until > now almost unable to go faster than 5 mph without shrieking and rumble, so > lucky just to get home. Since the rumbling and scraping noise is about 3-4 > times faster than wheel speed, I guess it is in the prop shaft rather than > after the differential. Rear hubs and diff are all new inside and left > right > play on shafts seems about equal. > > It's been too long since I did this job. Does the prop shaft come out > forward > or back? i.e. I have the rear of the car on ramps and have removed my > exhaust > system, but it's still not 100% obvious which way it comes out. > > I'm thinking of undoing the output flanges on the diff first so that I can > spin the diff and the prop shaft and avoid having to disassemble the > interior > to get at the top flange bolts. > > Am I missing some easier way to go about this? > Hi, Mark. It is rare to be able to determine a bad U-joint without removing the shaft from the car. Since you have a 72 it is likley you can remove the shaft easily from the car. it should easily come out toward the front. The later models with the J-type overdrive are much more problematic. The flange bolts are almost inaccessible and there is no room for removal of the shaft. Let's hope you car is the former, not the latter. Dave From don at napanet.net Fri Apr 9 22:38:59 2010 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 21:38:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Blue TR4 In-Reply-To: <5ADECA4E77204C3CB3E21243A7094176@ranteer.local> References: <0a7b01cad6d3$4b9bddb0$0301a8c0@randall> <686309798.11738941270758230355.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4BBFD661.9090503@blacksburg.net> <5ADECA4E77204C3CB3E21243A7094176@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <20100410050800.72BE624BA61@mail.napanet.net> The body colour doesn't look quite like Wedgwood Blue which was the darker blue offered on TR4s. What is definitely not correct are the brown interior, the red engine, the black engine bay, dark red frame, and the speckled-paint boot. At 07:58 PM 04/09/2010, oliver wrote: >is this a stock color? > > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/650-Miles-On-Frame-Off-Resto-Hand-Made-Interior-60-Pics_W0QQitemZ250608683839QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a59710b3f From pcaffrey at ymail.com Fri Apr 9 22:42:35 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 21:42:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Cust Svc Kudos semi-TR related In-Reply-To: <4BBFEA00.4000308@bradakis.com> References: <4BBFEA00.4000308@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <547605.2389.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> >For example, if one of you wrote "Donate to Team.Net, it is great!" >the motive would be you enjoy the services provided and would like >to see them continue." Donate to Team.Net....I think the services are great, Mark. Pat ________________________________ From: Mark J Bradakis To: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, April 9, 2010 8:01:20 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Cust Svc Kudos semi-TR related KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: > I don't know what NFI means, but a great post anyway! > NFI = No Financial Interest It means that he's endorsing a company because he thinks they are good to work with, not because he's getting a cut of the profits. For example, if one of you wrote "Donate to Team.Net, it is great!" the motive would be you enjoy the services provided and would like to see them continue. If *I* wrote "Donate to Team.Net" there is a definite financial interest behind it. I need to make some repairs to my ski chalet in the Alps, all of my Bugattis need oil changes and my mistresses have all been watching the Masters and commenting on how cute Tiger looks and ignoring me. Okay, so maybe I'm stretching the truth a bit. I do, in fact, appreciate those of you who took to heart the recent 'Fools and Funding' message. But it can be difficult sometimes to determine whether somebody is endorsing something out of the goodness of their heart or the thickness of their wallet. mjb. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 10 00:20:56 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:20:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Cust Svc Kudos semi-TR related In-Reply-To: <4BBFEA00.4000308@bradakis.com> References: <4BBFEA00.4000308@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <0e3f01cad875$fb36db50$0301a8c0@randall> > But it can be difficult sometimes to determine whether somebody is > endorsing something out of the goodness of their heart or the > thickness of their wallet. While Croesus might be hiding in this crowd, it sure isn't me. I donate because I enjoy the Team.Net services and would like to see them continue. Trust me, you wouldn't appreciate the contents of my wallet (which is mostly expired Soup Plantation coupons). Randall From cartr4a at ameritech.net Sat Apr 10 00:27:26 2010 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:27:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Blue TR4 In-Reply-To: <20100410050800.72BE624BA61@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <416108.9542.qm@web80207.mail.mud.yahoo.com> It also has a TR4A grill. --- On Fri, 4/9/10, don wrote: From: don Subject: [TR] Blue TR4 To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 9, 2010, 11:38 PM The body colour doesn't look quite like Wedgwood Blue which was the darker blue offered on TR4s. What is definitely not correct are the brown interior, the red engine, the black engine bay, dark red frame, and the speckled-paint boot. At 07:58 PM 04/09/2010, oliver wrote: >is this a stock color? > > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/650-Miles-On-Frame-Off-Resto-Hand-Made-Interi or-60-Pics_W0QQitemZ250608683839QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a 59710b3f _______________________________________________ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Apr 10 05:43:24 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:43:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blue TR4 In-Reply-To: <20100410050800.72BE624BA61@mail.napanet.net> References: <0a7b01cad6d3$4b9bddb0$0301a8c0@randall> <5ADECA4E77204C3CB3E21243A7094176@ranteer.local> <20100410050800.72BE624BA61@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <201004100743.24809.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 10 April 2010 12:38:59 am don wrote: > The body colour doesn't look quite like Wedgwood Blue which was the > darker blue offered on TR4s. What is definitely not correct are the > brown interior, the red engine, the black engine bay, dark red frame, > and the speckled-paint boot. > > At 07:58 PM 04/09/2010, oliver wrote: > >is this a stock color? > > > Hi, When I first looked at this listing I thought it was a dead ringer for French Blue circa 73 TR6. Now that I have completed the painting of my TR6 body tub, I can say it is a dead ringer for the French Blue! Even though my 6 is a 72 I decided long ago to paint the car in French Blue with a black interior. Bob From tedtsimx at bright.net Sat Apr 10 05:56:23 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:56:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] The Gathering Message-ID: <4BC06767.2060308@bright.net> Hello list members. If any of you are going to be at The Gathering car show next Saturday, April 17, please stop by and say hello. We will be set up with a parts display. Gear starters to Kevlar brakes, suspension stuff and more. If you are attending and need any of our products brought down, here is the chance to save freight. Please let me know as soon as you can so we can get it packed.. Yes, we can bring big items such as engines, transmissions, etc. Thanks. See you there. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Apr 10 08:49:50 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:49:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cust Svc Kudos semi-TR related In-Reply-To: <547605.2389.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <4BBFEA00.4000308@bradakis.com> <547605.2389.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have no problem making a donation, the list has provided advice worth far more than an occasional $50. And using Pay Pal makes the process painless ... I know it takes a good deal of time to maintain a list server like this, keep up the good work Mark ... Thanks for your time -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com Sat Apr 10 10:19:33 2010 From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 12:19:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Photos of 1966 TR4A rear leaf spring and shock Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425271CB83EAF@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> I'm trying to sort out an issue with my leaf spring rubbing up against the bumper mount and am befuddled. Can somebody please email me some photos of a 1966 tr4a (NON IRS) rear suspension. On initial observation it looks mine was re-assembled incorrectly, Please send to pdachnowicz at webtastic.com Thank you Peter 551.427.1178 From wayne at motorcarriage.com Sat Apr 10 14:26:36 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 16:26:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? Message-ID: <3B79E8E09ED64485AB4CC577AADC8042@D794W231> Hi List, I seen an Engine For Sale that when reading the description raised some questions. The 1300 Engine was described as fitting OEM 71-74, but that it would fit all Spitfire Frames 71-80. I wasn't aware that the earlier 1300's were the only Engine to fit into a pre-71 MK III. I understand that You can basically fit anything into anything. But what's the difference? I've seen a few 1500's put into MK III's. Is a special mount needed? Cheers, Wayne Douglas, MA 64 TR4 69 Spitfire 75 TR6 From spitfire at freebacon.net Sat Apr 10 15:07:54 2010 From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 15:07:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? In-Reply-To: <3B79E8E09ED64485AB4CC577AADC8042@D794W231> References: <3B79E8E09ED64485AB4CC577AADC8042@D794W231> Message-ID: <9D8AA7A33E6C4FD2825F17FFF09AD778@Spike> All of the Spitfire engines are interchangeable. I've put a '79 engine in a '74 frame, had a '69 engine in a '74 frame (yes, same frame), etc, etc. I currently have a '69 engine in a '69 frame and '72 engine in another '69 frame. Mike Welch Colorado Springs, CO '69 Spitfire MkIII x2 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Wayne Lee" Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 2:26 PM To: Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? > Hi List, > I seen an Engine For Sale that when reading the description raised > some > questions. > The 1300 Engine was described as fitting OEM 71-74, but that it would fit > all > Spitfire > Frames 71-80. > I wasn't aware that the earlier 1300's were the only Engine to fit into > a > pre-71 MK III. > I understand that You can basically fit anything into anything. But what's > the > difference? > I've seen a few 1500's put into MK III's. Is a special mount needed? > Cheers, > Wayne > Douglas, MA > 64 TR4 > 69 Spitfire > 75 TR6 > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitfire at freebacon.net From spitlist at cox.net Sat Apr 10 15:59:34 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 14:59:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? In-Reply-To: <3B79E8E09ED64485AB4CC577AADC8042@D794W231> References: <3B79E8E09ED64485AB4CC577AADC8042@D794W231> Message-ID: All spitfire engines have pretty much the same outside dimensions and therefore will fit any year model. The only things that you might have to deal with are connections to other gearboxes, meaning that if you do not change gearboxes, you may have to deal with some clutch and flywheel issues. If you do change gearboxes as well, then you might have to deal with a longer or shorter drive shaft. But the engine blocks themselves have the same location for engine mounts and have the same bolt pattern on the backing plates. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Lee Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 1:27 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? Hi List, I seen an Engine For Sale that when reading the description raised some questions. The 1300 Engine was described as fitting OEM 71-74, but that it would fit all Spitfire Frames 71-80. I wasn't aware that the earlier 1300's were the only Engine to fit into a pre-71 MK III. I understand that You can basically fit anything into anything. But what's the difference? I've seen a few 1500's put into MK III's. Is a special mount needed? Cheers, Wayne Douglas, MA 64 TR4 69 Spitfire 75 TR6 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From wayne at motorcarriage.com Sat Apr 10 16:16:51 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 18:16:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? In-Reply-To: References: <3B79E8E09ED64485AB4CC577AADC8042@D794W231> Message-ID: <555C81D8B82A4AB7B64C35979DEAB2E6@D794W231> Thanks Joe, The Guy who's selling me the Car said it was too bad he didn't have the 1300 Block with the same Serial# as the Engine that broke it's Crank and got replaced with this 1300. I don't know why he'd be worried about #'s matching on this Car. I thought later he might have meant he now has the later 1300 mentioned below as opposed to the original 69 type Motor, I was wondering if he was talking about the Casting #. I hope it's the older style 1300. Is there one that's preferred over the other? I have some HS4's I'd like to fit on this. How are Manifold's to find for these? I've seen the Adapter Plates, but will the UK 1500 Intake Manifold set up for 2 x HS6's fit on the 1300 Heads and how available are they? I have a few 1500 x 1 Stromberg type Manifolds. I was curious if many people have run 1-HS6 on the Manifold? I wouldn't go this route, but it seems adequate for a street 1300. Sorry for all the questions... Cheers, Wayne -------------------------------------------------- From: "Joe Curry" Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 5:59 PM To: "'Wayne Lee'" ; Subject: RE: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? > All spitfire engines have pretty much the same outside dimensions and > therefore will fit any year model. > > The only things that you might have to deal with are connections to other > gearboxes, meaning that if you do not change gearboxes, you may have to > deal > with some clutch and flywheel issues. If you do change gearboxes as well, > then you might have to deal with a longer or shorter drive shaft. > > But the engine blocks themselves have the same location for engine mounts > and have the same bolt pattern on the backing plates. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Lee > Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 1:27 PM > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? > > Hi List, > I seen an Engine For Sale that when reading the description raised > some > questions. > The 1300 Engine was described as fitting OEM 71-74, but that it would fit > all > Spitfire > Frames 71-80. > I wasn't aware that the earlier 1300's were the only Engine to fit into > a > pre-71 MK III. > I understand that You can basically fit anything into anything. But what's > the > difference? > I've seen a few 1500's put into MK III's. Is a special mount needed? > Cheers, > Wayne > Douglas, MA > 64 TR4 > 69 Spitfire > 75 TR6 > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Apr 10 16:24:59 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 17:24:59 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Post 60000 TR3 question - rear seat platform Message-ID: <517184297.1693601.1270938299216.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net> On the rear "seat" platform there are two holes on either side about 3" from the wheel well and about 2" from the leading edge. What is their purpose? One of those "I didn't get a picture" items and no recollection AT ALL. Thanks Carl From wayne at motorcarriage.com Sat Apr 10 16:28:06 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 18:28:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? In-Reply-To: <9D8AA7A33E6C4FD2825F17FFF09AD778@Spike> References: <3B79E8E09ED64485AB4CC577AADC8042@D794W231> <9D8AA7A33E6C4FD2825F17FFF09AD778@Spike> Message-ID: <34BD6BC6479A46BC9ED587C9F4FD4DAC@D794W231> Hi Mike, Thanks for the info, I'm glad to hear it. I've got a 69 with a replacement 1300 Engine on the side. I haven't gotten it home yet, so I don't know what generation 1300. Which do You prefer if it had been rebuilt to original spec, which this one supposedly has. I'll pull the Bottom End apart and Check out what been done and change Rod Bolts and Assembly Lube, along with checking the Oil Pump. I was told everything ground -.010" and Pistons +.010". The Car was a cheap Basket Case that's very solid. so I'm fine with any prospective disappointments. Cheers, Wayne Douglas, MA 64 TR4 (project) 69 Spitfire (soon) 75 TR6 (Daily Driver after Headlight Dimmer Switch Change) -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mike Welch" Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 5:07 PM To: Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? > All of the Spitfire engines are interchangeable. I've put a '79 engine in > a '74 frame, had a '69 engine in a '74 frame (yes, same frame), etc, etc. > I currently have a '69 engine in a '69 frame and '72 engine in another '69 > frame. > > > Mike Welch > Colorado Springs, CO > '69 Spitfire MkIII x2 > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Wayne Lee" > Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 2:26 PM > To: > Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? > >> Hi List, >> I seen an Engine For Sale that when reading the description raised >> some >> questions. >> The 1300 Engine was described as fitting OEM 71-74, but that it would fit >> all >> Spitfire >> Frames 71-80. >> I wasn't aware that the earlier 1300's were the only Engine to fit into >> a >> pre-71 MK III. >> I understand that You can basically fit anything into anything. But >> what's the >> difference? >> I've seen a few 1500's put into MK III's. Is a special mount needed? >> Cheers, >> Wayne >> Douglas, MA >> 64 TR4 >> 69 Spitfire >> 75 TR6 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitfire at freebacon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com From wayne at motorcarriage.com Sat Apr 10 16:52:03 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 18:52:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? In-Reply-To: <555C81D8B82A4AB7B64C35979DEAB2E6@D794W231> References: <3B79E8E09ED64485AB4CC577AADC8042@D794W231> <555C81D8B82A4AB7B64C35979DEAB2E6@D794W231> Message-ID: That should of read.... 2x HS4's -------------------------------------------------- From: "Wayne Lee" Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 6:16 PM To: "Joe Curry" ; Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? > Thanks Joe, > The Guy who's selling me the Car said it was too bad he didn't have the > 1300 Block with the same Serial# > as the Engine that broke it's Crank and got replaced with this 1300. I > don't know why he'd be worried about > #'s matching on this Car. I thought later he might have meant he now has > the later 1300 mentioned below as opposed to the > original 69 type Motor, I was wondering if he was talking about the > Casting #. I hope it's the older style 1300. > Is there one that's preferred over the other? I have some HS4's I'd like > to fit on this. How are Manifold's to find for these? > I've seen the Adapter Plates, but will the UK 1500 Intake Manifold set up > for 2 x HS6's fit on the 1300 Heads and how available > are they? I have a few 1500 x 1 Stromberg type Manifolds. I was curious if > many people have run 1-HS6 on the Manifold? > I wouldn't go this route, but it seems adequate for a street 1300. Sorry > for all the questions... > Cheers, > Wayne > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Joe Curry" > Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 5:59 PM > To: "'Wayne Lee'" ; > Subject: RE: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? > >> All spitfire engines have pretty much the same outside dimensions and >> therefore will fit any year model. >> >> The only things that you might have to deal with are connections to other >> gearboxes, meaning that if you do not change gearboxes, you may have to >> deal >> with some clutch and flywheel issues. If you do change gearboxes as >> well, >> then you might have to deal with a longer or shorter drive shaft. >> >> But the engine blocks themselves have the same location for engine mounts >> and have the same bolt pattern on the backing plates. >> >> Joe >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Lee >> Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 1:27 PM >> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk III Engine Interchangeability Pre-71? >> >> Hi List, >> I seen an Engine For Sale that when reading the description raised >> some >> questions. >> The 1300 Engine was described as fitting OEM 71-74, but that it would fit >> all >> Spitfire >> Frames 71-80. >> I wasn't aware that the earlier 1300's were the only Engine to fit into >> a >> pre-71 MK III. >> I understand that You can basically fit anything into anything. But >> what's >> the >> difference? >> I've seen a few 1500's put into MK III's. Is a special mount needed? >> Cheers, >> Wayne >> Douglas, MA >> 64 TR4 >> 69 Spitfire >> 75 TR6 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Apr 10 17:06:02 2010 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 16:06:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Post 60000 TR3 question - rear seat platform In-Reply-To: <517184297.1693601.1270938299216.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net> References: <517184297.1693601.1270938299216.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <601CA6E7-A105-4BC2-A73C-8E5C5D008C1B@cox.net> My first TR3A (also 1960) back as an undergrad days, had the rear "seat" cushion. And if memory serves correctly (a rather low probability any more) there were two bolt heads sticking up to hold the seat cushion in place. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ On 10 Apr, 2010, at 3:24 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote: > On the rear "seat" platform there are two holes on either side about 3" from the wheel well and about 2" from the leading edge. > > What is their purpose? One of those "I didn't get a picture" items and no recollection AT ALL. > > Thanks > Carl From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Sat Apr 10 18:15:50 2010 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 18:15:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] 1973 Triumph Stag on eBay Message-ID: <4BC114B6.1020207@triumphstagclub.org> Hi All, Happy Spring, Time to buy a reliable Stag! I posted my Triumph Stag on Ebay Motors, Item # 250613178556 or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250613178556&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123 Yep, it is mine again, price is significantly reduced to make room for other projects. Glenn! -- Glenn Merrell TSN Admin http://www.triumphstag.net mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Apr 10 19:05:30 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 20:05:30 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Post 60000 TR3 question - rear seat platform Message-ID: <1120079404.1121425.1270947930801.JavaMail.root@vms231.mailsrvcs.net> No wonder I didn't remember them. Didn't have the rear seat cushion. Thanks Larry & John - There is another pair of holes further back - were they for the same purpose. a couple inches in front of the capture nuts for the fuel tank straps. The front pair will be covered by the footpads for a roll bar. Since I won't have a rear seat - I'll just plug them with some small bolts so I don't have to worry about moisture splashing up through the holes. Tomorrow is another 'red letter' day. The tub will be going back onto the chassis. I have done all that I can in preparation. Decided to hold off on the fan/radiator just to make it a little easier - also don't need to worry about messing them up. Apr 10, 2010 10:44:57 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote: On the rear "seat" platform there are two holes on either side about 3" from the wheel well and about 2" from the leading edge. What is their purpose? One of those "I didn't get a picture" items and no recollection AT ALL. Thanks Carl From davidt at opentext.com Sat Apr 10 22:17:23 2010 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 00:17:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Preparing the babies to come home Message-ID: Good evening all After a long time, a long divorce proceeding, a new house and so on, my TR3a and Spit6 are about to be picked up from the ex's temporary custody. The 3a will be no problem putting on the trailer to transport. My problem is the spit6, it currently has no gearbox in her, currently there is a floor jack holding up the rear of the engine. In order to move the spit I need to remove the jack; so here are the questions: 1/ can the engine mounts hold a gt6 motor without the jack ok? At least initially 2/ once the spit is on the trailer can she be transported without rear motor support? 3/ then once the car is at the new place I should put the support in the rear of the engine right? Also, these are being moved to a new temporary location, and the plan is to build a 16'x16' garage. Does someone have some plans in electronic form they would be willing to share? Many thanks and looking forward to getting in a LBC again David Templeton '59 TR3a '76 Spit6 From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Apr 11 07:12:23 2010 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 09:12:23 EDT Subject: [TR] Preparing the babies to come home Message-ID: <3420.105484c.38f324b7@aol.com> In a message dated 4/11/2010 1:06:43 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, davidt at opentext.com writes: In order to move the spit I need to remove the jack; so here are the questions: 1/ can the engine mounts hold a gt6 motor without the jack ok? At least initially 2/ once the spit is on the trailer can she be transported without rear motor support? NO and NO but, thanks to a DPO, I have trailered a GT6 with engine in it and no gearbox. DPO had the car sitting in his front yard with no gearbox in it - if I remember correctly (its been about 20 years) the DPO had the rear of the engine supported by a 1x3 across the frame rails or floor pans (i don't remember which) - we loaded the car like that and trailered it a short distance, then put the gearbox back in it before trailering a couple hundred miles home. You should be able to jack the rear of the engine up a little more and then support the rear of the engine with something across frame rails or floor pans (i don't remember which) - I'd use a hefty piece of angle iron rather than a small board. Cheers, Jack Mc From fishplate at charter.net Sun Apr 11 08:51:25 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 10:51:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Preparing the babies to come home In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4Eqo1e0065K6Zm805Eqot1@charter.net> At 12:17 AM 4/11/2010, you wrote: Hi David, You've got lots of advice on moving the car without the transmission, with which I concur. Let's talk about garages... >Also, these are being moved to a new temporary location, and the plan is >to build a 16'x16' garage. Does someone have some plans in electronic >form they would be willing to share? Why 16' by 16'? I recently built a garage, so I'm familiar with the shortcomings and compromises I had to make...so here's my first thoughts: 16x16 should be easy for any builder. It uses common lengths of dimensional lumber and sheet goods, keeping waste (and cost) low. But, given a pair of 5' by 14' cars, 16 by 16 is a tight fit. Also, standard garage doors are 9 feet and 16 feet for single and double, respectively. If you're going to use a standard overhead door, you need more width or more depth. If you can do it, a typical two-car garage is more like 20 by 22, with one double or two single doors. You can search the web for garage plans and get a ton of examples pretty quickly. My garage was built for four vehicles. It now has five You can't make it too big, but you can make it more expensive...the trick is striking a balance. It's a lot tougher to add on later. http://fishplate.org/garage/ and http://fishplate.org/garage/plan.jpg What looks like lots of room in the plan turns out to be less room in real life. http://fishplate.org/garage/866057.jpg My advice is to measure your cars, then cut out some scale shapes and play with them to make sure you have a practical layout. Then add about 20% more space. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 11:37:24 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 10:37:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Preparing the babies to come home In-Reply-To: <4Eqo1e0065K6Zm805Eqot1@charter.net> References: <4Eqo1e0065K6Zm805Eqot1@charter.net> Message-ID: On 4/11/10, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > My advice is to measure your cars, then cut out some scale shapes > and play with them to make sure you have a practical layout. Or draw your potential floor plan in 1/43 scale... then you can use a couple of 1/43 diecast cars to test fit (that's what I did). Now is also the time to think about whether you will ever want a lift. They are so affordable that a 10' ceiling may be worth considering. Geo From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Apr 11 12:15:31 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 14:15:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Preparing the babies to come home - now garages In-Reply-To: References: <4Eqo1e0065K6Zm805Eqot1@charter.net> Message-ID: <89E39119A9D040CCA5BBAE8489CCBBB7@CarlPC> I went through the same 'mental' discussion a couple years ago. I decided to go with a metal garage (from Carolina Carports). I then insulated walls/ceiling with scrap refrigerator truck walls (5' x 42" x 3") which fit real nice between the 5' framework. They have an interlocking edges so they build up the wall. Even with the insulation it was about half the cost of a conventional construction. ended up with a 24' x 36' x 10' (sidewall). I enclosed the back 10' for a storage/work room that could be air conditioned. The 'loft' is used for bulk storage (currently there are 2 engines & 3 transmissions plus a lot of spares up there plus wood, etc. I electric wired off four circuits with two plugs on two circuits every 5'. two may have been enough because it is difficult to have 4 things running continuously at the same time. compressor is on a separate circuit as are the lights (two circuits), fans, exterior lighting/plugs, refrigerator, and air conditioner/heater. total of 12 circuits. I have drawings/plans/photos if any one is interested. C ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 1:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Preparing the babies to come home > On 4/11/10, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: >> >> My advice is to measure your cars, then cut out some scale shapes >> and play with them to make sure you have a practical layout. > > Or draw your potential floor plan in 1/43 scale... then you can use a > couple of 1/43 diecast cars to test fit (that's what I did). > > Now is also the time to think about whether you will ever want a lift. > They are so affordable that a 10' ceiling may be worth considering. > > Geo > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Apr 11 14:44:57 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 16:44:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] First rides in/on vintage British machines Message-ID: <4BC1FC89.24770.358181C4@localhost> Took the GT6 out yesterday for the first time this year for a spin of more than just around the block(s). It was for a critical item too, a beer run, for a round trip of 4 or 5 miles. I keep forgetting just how much it likes to accelerate intentionally. Success was achieved by returing home with Harpoon IPA. Electronic fuel injection? Bah! I'll take carbs. Did a 30 mile bicycle ride with the Charles River Wheelmen this morning on my old Raleigh Carlton Gran Sport. It doesn't accelerate as quickly as the GT6 but the gas mileage is very much better! I finished in 2hrs 8 mins, not bad for my longest ride in 25 years. Reynolds 531 may be "vintage" but it still works. Carbon fiber? Bah! Skip the protein, I have a few more carbs please. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Apr 12 08:31:11 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:31:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering -center link question Message-ID: Just had an 'oh crap' moment. Replacing the pin/bushings on the center link (getting ready to install) I didn't take pictures and can't remember for sure. I think: The center link be offset down with the tie rod 'wings' be angled slightly up. or it the other way around. Seems like it has to be down to get around the fan extension. I don't want to get these puppies in and be wrong - they were a real b to get out. Thanks From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Apr 12 09:30:46 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:30:46 EDT Subject: [TR] Update on TriumphBob Message-ID: <63fa5.14e51331.38f496a6@aol.com> In a message dated 4/1/2010 12:41:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: Bob will have another bone marrow biopsy on Thursday, 4/1. We MUST get the results showing NO leukemia cells present in his marrow. His body is still fighting a very serious infection and he would not be able to have more chemo should the results be otherwise so, PLEASE pray for a marrow clear of any leukemia cells. Again.....thank you for all the Emails, cards and prayers. Bob IS getting better, but his biggest hurdle is just around the corner. Fondly, Ava Great News Guys, Our prayers were answered. From Ava: Amen and hallelujah! Bob's bone marrow came back clear!!! His white count is up to 1.11 today and has been climbing consistently for 10 straight days! Slight issue with jaundice due to one anti-biotic which has been exchanged for another so we'll be watching those counts for another day or two. We are so happy to report that Bob is now residing in a rehab facility in Parma. He moved in on Wednesday afternoon and loves the place. He will be having daily Physical and Occupational Therapy with a smattering of Speech Therapy. This is the best news in quite some time. Thanks for everyone's support. Darrell From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Apr 12 09:38:56 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:38:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 steering -center link question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3241366AD67E4E5AB1BE5BBB27BABD3C@CarlPC> Disregard the earlier post. I did find that a picture that Bill Beech sent for the brake line routing included the center link positioning. (I was right - it is offset away from the fan extension) Thanks again Bill... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: "Triumphs" From tr4driver at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 15:08:25 2010 From: tr4driver at gmail.com (Kurtis J.) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:08:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Greetings everyone! Message-ID: Hey guys! I've been pretty much off the list for the past couple of years, but I wanted to drop in and say hello, and hopefully get back in contact with all of you. I just got my TR4 back on the road after mostly sitting for the past year and a half. I'm going to try not to let that happen again! The driving weather here in Arkansas has been fantastic the past couple of weeks! -- Kurtis Russellville, Arkansas 1963 TR4 - CT19389L 1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250 www.vintagebritishcars.com From FordneyNJ at aol.com Mon Apr 12 16:59:10 2010 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:59:10 EDT Subject: [TR] Rear main seal/crankcase evacuation systems Message-ID: <9820a.453afca.38f4ffbe@aol.com> I have been reading with much interest all I can about these systems. My TR4A does leak at the rear main seal. Negative pressure would seem to help alleviate this. Has anyone done this on a street driven car? Will it damage the silencers? My car has TR6 dual pipes, would I need to connect the system to both pipes? Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ President, Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS CTC 60536 L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Apr 13 07:36:25 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:36:25 EDT Subject: [TR] Update on TriumphBob Message-ID: In a message dated 4/12/2010 2:26:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: Darrell, has his mailing address changed from what you sent out last week? Dave Yes it is now: Pleasant Lake Villa,7260 Ridge Rd.,Parma, OH 44129. He is in room 271. He would love to receive mail there. Darrell From dmb993 at earthlink.net Tue Apr 13 08:05:54 2010 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:05:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] low compression on cylinder no. 6 Message-ID: <4BC47A42.7000709@earthlink.net> Folks, I put my TR250 to bed about a year ago, didn't do any special preparation, just parked it in my garage and shut her down. Today I did a compression test on the cold engine and all cylinders are 170psi (or so) but number 6 is 90psi. I squirted some lightweight oil (all I had on hand) into no. 6 and the psi increased to 140psi. The car has been used sporadically, spending lots of time sitting. I'm thinking a stuck ring on the piston groove. Any other ideas? If it's a stuck ring what are the chances of an easy fix (removing the piston, freeing the ring, re-insertion into the bore, wishful thinking :)) Thanks, David Brady '68 TR250 CD8124L From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 11:43:46 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:43:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] The Gathering is this coming weekend!!! Message-ID: *Every year the Triumph Club of the Carolinas puts on one heck of a carshow weekend at Shelton Vineyards (north of Winston Salem).* ** *Last year over 400 cars were shown and the weather was perfect - This year looks great as well. Come on out for a great day or weekend!* ** http://www.triumphclub.org/Gathering/index.htm All the Best, Chris Here is the shedule for the weekend: ** *Friday, April 16th * *1-4 pm* Registration at the Hampton Inn & Suites, Shelton Vineyards at Dobson *leaving 24 pm * Blue Ridge Foothills Tour, leaving from Hampton Inn at 2, 3, and 4pm *7pm* Live British parts auction at Hampton Inn, pizza and soft drinks *Saturday, April 17th* *8 amNoon* Registration at Shelton Vineyards *9 am3 pm* Participants Choice Car Show *9:00 am2:30 pm * 50/50 Raffle entries for sale at the bandshell *by 11 am * Bring Wrench Wracer entries to bandshell *10 am3 pm* Tours of Shelton Vineyards Winery with wine tasting. (Cost extra) *11 am* Barrel Tasting Seminar at the Visitor Center ($5 ea - 20 per max) *12:30 pm* Wrench Wracing Concours balloting ends *1 pm* Wrench Wracing match races at the band shell *1 pm* Car Show balloting ends *1 pm* Barrel Tasting Seminar at the Visitor Center ($5 ea - 20 per max) *3 pm* Car Show Awards Ceremony, Raffle drawing. *6:30 pm * BBQ Dinner at Hampton Inn & Suites (pre-registration required) *Sunday, April 18th* *8 amNoon* Autocross at Surry Community College Emergency Services Training Center 7:30 am - final timing set-up, course open for walking 8:00 am - final registration and tech inspections 8:15 am - drivers meeting and volunteer course worker assignments 8:30 am - first car off From wayne at motorcarriage.com Tue Apr 13 12:56:55 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:56:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally Message-ID: Hi All, I'm going down after work with my Van to pick up some loose Bits from the Garage where the 69 Spitfire Mk III is located . The Engine was rebuilt in the past and until I pull the Sump Pan and look at what I have, How can I tell if this replacement Engine is a Mk III or the later, larger Bearing Sized example by looking at it externally or by having some Casting #'s to go by. I seen a single Carb Manifold amongst his spares and I'm hoping it didn't come off of this Engine. He has 2 Trannies and an extra Diff., so there's hope it's a Mk III if he picked up the rest of the pieces from another Collection. In the meantime, I'll be anxious to identify it, when I get there. Any help appreciated. I won't be leaving for another 2 1/2 hrs. Cheers, Wayne Douglas, MA From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 13 14:48:56 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:48:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <615464.86904.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Wayne: Try this link: http://www.triumphspitfire.com/historymk3.html The most accurate way to tell what engine you have are the engine numbers stamped on on a boss located on the block just below the head. If the numbers are not readable then the bolt on the lower pulley; if this bolt head is bigger than 1.5 inches it is a large journal 1296; if smaller than 1.5 inches it is a small journal 1296 or possibly an 1147 which would be an incorrect engine for a Mk3. I am not aware that any 1296 came with a single carb; I believe the single carbs were only on 1500 motors; but then I don't consider myself an expert on the subject. Good luck Ernie --- On Tue, 4/13/10, Wayne Lee wrote: From: Wayne Lee Subject: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally To: "Triumph List" Date: Tuesday, April 13, 2010, 1:56 PM Hi All, I'm going down after work with my Van to pick up some loose Bits from the Garage where the 69 Spitfire Mk III is located . The Engine was rebuilt in the past and until I pull the Sump Pan and look at what I have, How can I tell if this replacement Engine is a Mk III or the later, larger Bearing Sized example by looking at it externally or by having some Casting #'s to go by. I seen a single Carb Manifold amongst his spares and I'm hoping it didn't come off of this Engine. He has 2 Trannies and an extra Diff., so there's hope it's a Mk III if he picked up the rest of the pieces from another Collection. In the meantime, I'll be anxious to identify it, when I get there. Any help appreciated. I won't be leaving for another 2 1/2 hrs. Cheers, Wayne Douglas, MA _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com From wayne at motorcarriage.com Tue Apr 13 14:56:57 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 16:56:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally In-Reply-To: <615464.86904.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com> References: <615464.86904.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks Ernie, I believe the Mk IV came with the single Stromberg, and that's still a 1296. Thanks for the link and the info. Cheers, Wayne From: Ernest Husmann Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 4:48 PM To: Triumph List ; Wayne Lee Subject: Re: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally Wayne: Try this link: http://www.triumphspitfire.com/historymk3.html The most accurate way to tell what engine you have are the engine numbers stamped on on a boss located on the block just below the head. If the numbers are not readable then the bolt on the lower pulley; if this bolt head is bigger than 1.5 inches it is a large journal 1296; if smaller than 1.5 inches it is a small journal 1296 or possibly an 1147 which would be an incorrect engine for a Mk3. I am not aware that any 1296 came with a single carb; I believe the single carbs were only on 1500 motors; but then I don't consider myself an expert on the subject. Good luck Ernie --- On Tue, 4/13/10, Wayne Lee wrote: From: Wayne Lee Subject: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally To: "Triumph List" Date: Tuesday, April 13, 2010, 1:56 PM Hi All, I'm going down after work with my Van to pick up some loose Bits from the Garage where the 69 Spitfire Mk III is located . The Engine was rebuilt in the past and until I pull the Sump Pan and look at what I have, How can I tell if this replacement Engine is a Mk III or the later, larger Bearing Sized example by looking at it externally or by having some Casting #'s to go by. I seen a single Carb Manifold amongst his spares and I'm hoping it didn't come off of this Engine. He has 2 Trannies and an extra Diff., so there's hope it's a Mk III if he picked up the rest of the pieces from another Collection. In the meantime, I'll be anxious to identify it, when I get there. Any help appreciated. I won't be leaving for another 2 1/2 hrs. Cheers, Wayne Douglas, MA _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com From wayne at motorcarriage.com Tue Apr 13 15:18:19 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:18:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally In-Reply-To: <23657040.1271193207195.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <23657040.1271193207195.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <70E1AAF7AB7A4F288669E5BB80FD76FE@artvac412870f0> Thanks Roger, I found this Site about an hour ago. I wrote some prefixes down and I'm leaving now. Cheers, Wayne -------------------------------------------------- From: "Roger Elliott" Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:13 PM To: "Wayne Lee" Subject: Re: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally > > Hi Wayne, > > Here is a web site with engine prefix by model > http://www.triumphspitfire.com/enginenumbers.html > > Roger > > -----Original Message----- >>From: Wayne Lee >>Sent: Apr 13, 2010 2:56 PM >>To: Triumph List >>Subject: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally >> >>Hi All, >> I'm going down after work with my Van to pick up some loose Bits from >>the Garage where the 69 Spitfire Mk III is located . The Engine was >>rebuilt in >>the >>past and until I pull the Sump Pan and look at what I have, How can I tell >>if >>this replacement >>Engine is a Mk III or the later, larger Bearing Sized example by looking >>at it >>externally or >>by having some Casting #'s to go by. I seen a single Carb Manifold amongst >>his >>spares >>and I'm hoping it didn't come off of this Engine. >> He has 2 Trannies and an extra Diff., so there's hope it's a Mk III if >> he >>picked up the rest >>of the pieces from another Collection. In the meantime, I'll be anxious to >>identify it, when I get there. >>Any help appreciated. I won't be leaving for another 2 1/2 hrs. >>Cheers, >>Wayne >>Douglas, MA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 13 15:44:26 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:44:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] low compression on cylinder no. 6 In-Reply-To: <4BC47A42.7000709@earthlink.net> References: <4BC47A42.7000709@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <026001cadb52$7d6b36a0$7841a3e0$@rr.com> A stuck ring seems very likely to me, David. I would probably dose #6 with your favorite penetrating oil (mine is PB Blaster) and let it sit overnight, then try driving it for a few days. If that doesn't free it up, you are probably stuck removing the head & piston, so you can see what the real problem is. Unless the bore is damaged, you should be able to fix it without having to remove the engine from the car. And next time you put it to bed, maybe some upper cylinder lubricant? Even just a squirt or two from the oil can down each plug hole followed by turning the engine by hand (or on the starter) will go a long way towards preserving things. There are purpose-made "fogging oils" that work even better (try your local marine supply). -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Apr 13 15:49:04 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:49:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Gas Proof Material In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <555793720.16925561271195344710.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Last summer I switched to Sunpro gauges, building an adapter for the fuel tank sending unit out of two pieces of plexiglass with Permatex and paper gasket seals sandwiched in between. Worked great. Until filling up for the first time this season when I smelled gas. Investigation reveals the plexiglass has degraded and broken. Question one: does gas break down plexiglass, or might it have been the Permatex? I don't think I tightened the screws too tight. Question two: I don't really have the tools to easily fabricate two metal disks to create an adapter. Is there a material that's easy to work with, like Plexiglass, that can withstand the chemicals? I do love these new guages, though. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Apr 13 16:37:10 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:37:10 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list Message-ID: <269979.462762.1271198230157.JavaMail.root@vms061.mailsrvcs.net> I had promised the list last Fall that I would provide the statistics from an oil analysis done on oil removed this spring from my 1972 Triumph TR6. The Oil Report was done by BlackStone Laboratories.B I was a little disappointed in that they had not done enough from this type of engine to provide Universal Averages to compare to. So, instead of the whole report, here is the summary. I use Castrol GTX 20W-50 and have been adding a bottle of ZDDPlus at each oil change once per year. The important results (in PPM): Phosphorus 2012 Zinc 2678 And for their comments below: Copper 61 Lead 57 Fuel % 2.5 (Should be less than 2.0) This is more than adequate to protect our flat tappet engines. I would also like to share their comments: "We found high copper and lead in this first sample from you Triumph inline 6. These metals probably indicate bearling wear. However, while we've seen other Triumph samples, this is our first from an I-6 so we don't have good averages established for this engine yet. But we do suspect these are abnormal metals, and if silicon is from abrasive dirt, it may be the reason for all the wear. Check the air filtration system. Fuel was also hight at 2.5%, causing the viscosity to drop to the 40W range. Check back in another 1,000 miles to establish trends and monitor wear." Needless to say, I will not be performing this $22.50 analysis each year! I run K&N air filters that are cleaned and re-oiled each spring. I am not suprised that ther is bearing wear, and I am sure many of you are not surprised either. The fuel in the oil is a concern to me, but it was not much over the "should be" value. Anyway, thanks to the list for all the great information each and everyone provides, and if anyone is interested in seeing the entire report, I can email it to you. Have a great summer! Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 From wayne at motorcarriage.com Tue Apr 13 17:27:22 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:27:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally In-Reply-To: <70E1AAF7AB7A4F288669E5BB80FD76FE@artvac412870f0> References: <23657040.1271193207195.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <70E1AAF7AB7A4F288669E5BB80FD76FE@artvac412870f0> Message-ID: Yeah, No such luck with this Engine being the early 1300 example. I Asked him if any of the 3 Single Carb Manifolds he had around came off of the Engine that he prepared to go back into the Car. He said Yes, and I commenced to look at the front Pulley Nut and it was the big one. Some consolation was gained in getting the Mk III Head, Cam, and Distributor along with all the other extras. I can't complain though, I got a lot of extra parts. Solid Frame and Body, with some minor perforations in the Floorboards here and there around the Seat frame area, Trunk and Sills are solid. Funky looking Hardtop with 2 raised areas that looked like they should be vented to the rear above Driver and Passengers Head area. For $300.00 I guess I should probably feel guilty and not disappointed in the Engine. What are Core Engines or Short Blocks going for these days when You can find them for a Mk III? Thanks to those who replied, Wayne > Thanks Roger, > I found this Site about an hour ago. I wrote some prefixes down and I'm > leaving now. > Cheers, > Wayne > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Roger Elliott" > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:13 PM > To: "Wayne Lee" > Subject: Re: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally > >> >> Hi Wayne, >> >> Here is a web site with engine prefix by model >> http://www.triumphspitfire.com/enginenumbers.html >> >> Roger >> >> -----Original Message----- >>>From: Wayne Lee >>>Sent: Apr 13, 2010 2:56 PM >>>To: Triumph List >>>Subject: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally >>> >>>Hi All, >>> I'm going down after work with my Van to pick up some loose Bits from >>>the Garage where the 69 Spitfire Mk III is located . The Engine was >>>rebuilt in >>>the >>>past and until I pull the Sump Pan and look at what I have, How can I >>>tell if >>>this replacement >>>Engine is a Mk III or the later, larger Bearing Sized example by looking >>>at it >>>externally or >>>by having some Casting #'s to go by. I seen a single Carb Manifold >>>amongst his >>>spares >>>and I'm hoping it didn't come off of this Engine. >>> He has 2 Trannies and an extra Diff., so there's hope it's a Mk III if >>> he >>>picked up the rest >>>of the pieces from another Collection. In the meantime, I'll be anxious >>>to >>>identify it, when I get there. >>>Any help appreciated. I won't be leaving for another 2 1/2 hrs. >>>Cheers, >>>Wayne >>>Douglas, MA From dmb993 at earthlink.net Tue Apr 13 17:29:46 2010 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:29:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] low compression on cylinder no. 6 In-Reply-To: <026001cadb52$7d6b36a0$7841a3e0$@rr.com> References: <4BC47A42.7000709@earthlink.net> <026001cadb52$7d6b36a0$7841a3e0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4BC4FE6A.3000401@earthlink.net> Thanks Randall, I think you're right. There's a little more to the story. Shortly after I put her to bed I decided to install a Carter fuel pump in place of the Redtop. Once the install was complete I had trouble with the my weber accelerator pumps (triple carb setup). She just wouldn't spin when I blipped the throttle. I soon realized that 5 of my accelerator pumps weren't working - the only one working was the one for cylinder number 6. The fuel in my tank was less than 6 mos old but it didn't smell fresh and it turned out that my Webers were seriously gummed - hence the clogged pumps. (Along with a squirt of oil, I'll be using Stabil from now on). Well, I guess in trying to get it to run I doused #6 with quite a bit of fuel. I then left the car for the remainder of the winter. Yesterday I decided to renew the condenser, points, rotor and cap. As I rotated the engine by hand there was a definite resistance and a breaking-free that took place. I'm thinking that the fuel spilt into #6, varnished, and glued the compression ring into place. I then grabbed 10cc of Corrosion-X (a rust inhibitor penetrator) and injected it into #6. The result was 60psi became 140psi. Today the compression was 180psi. I think the gum on the ring dissolved. I'll know better once I get my carbs back together and complete the tune-up. Feeling a little less panicked, thanks again. David Brady '68 TR250, CD8124L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 13 18:48:14 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:48:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gas Proof Material In-Reply-To: <555793720.16925561271195344710.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <555793720.16925561271195344710.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <02ad01cadb6c$2f3b0b30$8db12190$@rr.com> > Question one: does gas break down plexiglass, Apparently so. At least the chart at http://tinyurl.com/y6vxco5 says it's not recommended for gasoline, ethanol, toluene, etc. > Is there a material that's easy to > work with, like Plexiglass, that can withstand the chemicals? According to http://tinyurl.com/y2j7vwj Nylon 6, Nylon 66, Polyester (PET) and Polyetherimide (PEI) should do well. All are available in various shapes from MMC: http://www.mcmaster.com No doubt there are others as well, that's just the first study I stumbled across. -- Randall From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Apr 13 18:58:36 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 20:58:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Identifying Mk III Engine Block Externally In-Reply-To: <615464.86904.qm@web57603.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CCA984BF9BEFCE-BCC-2DD4@Webmail-d115.sysops.aol.com> Wayne, glad you've ID'ed the engine, and sorry it wasn't what you wanted. Ernie and others, the single Stromberg began with the "Federal" 1970 models, which still used the small-bearing 1296, and continued then on "Federal" models through the end of the Spitfire's run. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 13 23:06:08 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 22:06:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr3 split calipers Message-ID: <522648.4332.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> i have been helping a buddy restore his TR3. i stoped by this evening and found he had split the 2 piece calipers. from the collective wisdom of the past i recall every one saying don't do this. well now its done. so what would one suggest as a sealant for putting them together again? Frank From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Apr 14 02:51:51 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 08:51:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] tr3 split calipers In-Reply-To: <522648.4332.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <344484475.11499711271235111858.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> white post. Energy Management is the hallmark of a professional pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 12:06:08 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: [TR] tr3 split calipers i have been helping a buddy restore his TR3. i stoped by this evening and found he had split the 2 piece calipers. from the collective wisdom of the past i recall every one saying don't do this. well now its done. so what would one suggest as a sealant for putting them together again? Frank _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From TR4Zest at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 02:54:17 2010 From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 08:54:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] Gas Proof Material Message-ID: <00151757437cee12ba04842e85d2@google.com> You could cut your adaptor discs from the walls of a red plastic gas 'can'. That seems to be the obvious gas-proof material and easily obtained. Brian From opposumking at verizon.net Wed Apr 14 04:40:46 2010 From: opposumking at verizon.net (opposumking at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 05:40:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list Message-ID: <17089541.224909.1271241646839.JavaMail.root@vms074.mailsrvcs.net> /nwpJKp: Permission denied From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Apr 14 06:02:26 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 08:02:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list In-Reply-To: <269979.462762.1271198230157.JavaMail.root@vms061.mailsrvcs.net> References: <269979.462762.1271198230157.JavaMail.root@vms061.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <201004140802.26893.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 13 April 2010 06:37:10 pm thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > I had promised the list last Fall that I would provide the statistics from > an oil analysis done on oil removed this spring from my 1972 Triumph TR6. > > The Oil Report was done by BlackStone Laboratories.B I was a little > disappointed in that they had not done enough from this type of engine to > provide Universal Averages to compare to. > > So, instead of the whole report, here is the summary. I use Castrol GTX > 20W-50 and have been adding a bottle of ZDDPlus at each oil change once per > year. > > The important results (in PPM): > Phosphorus 2012 > Zinc 2678 > And for their comments below: Copper 61 > Lead 57 > Fuel % 2.5 (Should be > less than 2.0) > > This is more than adequate to protect our flat tappet engines. > > I would also like to share their comments: > "We found high copper and lead in this first sample from you Triumph inline > 6. These metals probably indicate bearling wear. However, while we've > seen other Triumph samples, this is our first from an I-6 so we don't have > good averages established for this engine yet. But we do suspect these > are abnormal metals, and if silicon is from abrasive dirt, it may be the > reason for all the wear. Check the air filtration system. Fuel was also > hight at 2.5%, causing the viscosity to drop to the 40W range. Check back > in another 1,000 miles to establish trends and monitor wear." > > Needless to say, I will not be performing this $22.50 analysis each year! > I run K&N air filters that are cleaned and re-oiled each spring. I am not > suprised that ther is bearing wear, and I am sure many of you are not > surprised either. The fuel in the oil is a concern to me, but it was not > much over the "should be" value. > > Anyway, thanks to the list for all the great information each and everyone > provides, and if anyone is interested in seeing the entire report, I can > email it to you. > > Have a great summer! > > Craig H. Nicholls > 1972 Triumph TR6 > Craig, Thanks for the post. When I drained the oil from the sump of my 72 project there were over 8 quarts of oil/fuel. The PO said that gas was getting into the oil somehow but didn't know how. I could smell the gas in that oil! I had no idea either and after taking the engine apart and having everything checked out for wear at my machine shop, I determined that it was not the engine proper. There was no wear at all anywhere, even the end float was within spec! So I am guessing it was the smog system connections between the carbs and the valve cover and the carbon canister. The funny thing though is the engine ran pretty good! At that time I decided to scrap the ZS carbs for a set of Hitachi 1.75 (SU) offered by Paltech. The crankcase breathing will be routed to the air filter box / carbon canister and not the carbs directly. The box I am using is a TR 250 box with the breather connection on the box. I am not sure what the problem is but since I am an SU guy (3 and 4) I decided to go with a carb that I understand. Really to old to learn something new! Bob From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Apr 14 08:38:01 2010 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:38:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] low compression on cylinder no. 6 In-Reply-To: <4BC47A42.7000709@earthlink.net> References: <4BC47A42.7000709@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Lets harken back to yesteryear with a old Ford approach. Why not drain the oil from the engine and then spray #6 cylinder liberally with kerosene or your favorite penetrating solvent. Let it set for several days with intermittent reapplications. Then turn the engine on the starter for a few hundred revolutions and take another compression test. Best regards, Tom > Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:05:54 -0400 > From: dmb993 at earthlink.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] low compression on cylinder no. 6 > > Folks, > > I put my TR250 to bed about a year ago, didn't do any > special preparation, just parked it in my garage and shut her > down. Today I did a compression test on the cold engine and > all cylinders are 170psi (or so) but number 6 is 90psi. I squirted > some lightweight oil (all I had on hand) into no. 6 and the psi > increased to 140psi. The car has been used sporadically, > spending lots of time sitting. I'm thinking a stuck ring on the piston > groove. Any other ideas? If it's a stuck ring what are the chances > of an easy fix (removing the piston, freeing the ring, re-insertion > into the bore, wishful thinking :)) > > Thanks, > David Brady > '68 TR250 > CD8124L > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Apr 14 08:38:24 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:38:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list Message-ID: <20100414103824.AQX85104@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Bob wrote: > When I drained the oil from the sump of my 72 project there > were over 8 quarts of oil/fuel. The PO said that gas was > getting into the oil somehow but didn't know how. I could > smell the gas in that oil! I had that happen on my GT6. It has been discussed before. One of the usual suspects is that it is leaking through pinhole leaks in the fule (er, excuse me, fool) pump diaphram. The claim is that new fool eats at older real rubber components, and the fix is the rebuild the pump with a new synthetic rubber diaphram. Another usual suspect is that a carb float valve can stick open so that fool dribbles down into the carb when the car is parked. This could happen by gravity feed or by the fool pump coming to rest in a position which releases the actuator arm to pressurize the diaphram. (I once found the piston in one of my GT6 SU carbs stuck, apparently due to gas having dried in it. Don't know whether this relates and it's hard to imagine, but what do I know?) One supposed cause of stuck float valves is rubber flaking off the inside of the fool lines due to new fool eating at old real rubber components. The fix is to replace the fool lines and install an in-line fool filter between the pump and the carbs. Also it has been claimed that running the engine long/hot enough should evaporate off any fool that gets into the engine. So perhaps you tend to run it for only short periods. Evaporation or not, fool has been known to accoomoolate in the oil. Jim Muller, driving the GT6 to work now! From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Apr 14 09:36:57 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:36:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list Message-ID: <1448f.43909163.38f73b19@cs.com> In a message dated 4/14/2010 8:07:00 AM Central Daylight Time, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: > When I drained the oil from the sump of my 72 project there were over 8 > quarts > of oil/fuel. The PO said that gas was getting into the oil somehow but > didn't > know how. I could smell the gas in that oil! > > I had no idea either and after taking the engine apart and having > everything > checked out for wear at my machine shop, I determined that it was not the > engine proper. There was no wear at all anywhere, even the end float was > within > spec! So I am guessing it was the smog system connections between the > carbs > and the valve cover and the carbon canister. > The most likely cause is a leaking needle and seat. Since the tank on these cars is mounted pretty high fuel will flow even without a pump. You can drive the car without a pump if you keep the tank 3/4 full. Were you using Grosejets? Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 14 09:58:29 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 08:58:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 split calipers In-Reply-To: <522648.4332.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <522648.4332.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <152201cadbeb$53aee9d0$0301a8c0@randall> > so what would one suggest as a sealant for putting them > together again? Personally, I would just use new O-rings (available from Moss & TRF I believe) with a little clean brake fluid smeared on them. Don't want to take a chance on sealant (or the solvents in it) contaminating the fluid. Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Apr 14 10:29:37 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:29:37 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list Message-ID: <833967313.2291282.1271262577184.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> Jim, Interesting information. I had my fuel pump rebuilt last winter by TRF and they did a fantastic job. I do not know what substance they use in their diaphram, but Tom did call to tell me mine was ripped in several places. The car burns no oil. My entire carb setup was rebuilt by Jeff at Paltech, and that also was a fantastic job as others have described on the list that used him. My fuel lines have never been replaced by me, and your idea about a filter between the fool pump and the carbs is a good one. I see moss is now selling fuel lines by the inch that are not suppossed to break down. Anyone have a recommendation in inches how much would be needed to replace the fuel lines on a 1972 Triumph TR6? And, if I install a filter between the pump and the carbs, what type and model of filter should I use? Would you just use another normal fuel filter? Thanks, good stuff. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Apr 14, 2010, jimmuller at rcn.com wrote: Bob wrote: > When I drained the oil from the sump of my 72 project there > were over 8 quarts of oil/fuel. The PO said that gas was > getting into the oil somehow but didn't know how. I could > smell the gas in that oil! I had that happen on my GT6. It has been discussed before. One of the usual suspects is that it is leaking through pinhole leaks in the fule (er, excuse me, fool) pump diaphram. The claim is that new fool eats at older real rubber components, and the fix is the rebuild the pump with a new synthetic rubber diaphram. Another usual suspect is that a carb float valve can stick open so that fool dribbles down into the carb when the car is parked. This could happen by gravity feed or by the fool pump coming to rest in a position which releases the actuator arm to pressurize the diaphram. (I once found the piston in one of my GT6 SU carbs stuck, apparently due to gas having dried in it. Don't know whether this relates and it's hard to imagine, but what do I know?) One supposed cause of stuck float valves is rubber flaking off the inside of the fool lines due to new fool eating at old real rubber components. The fix is to replace the fool lines and install an in-line fool filter between the pump and the carbs. Also it has been claimed that running the engine long/hot enough should evaporate off any fool that gets into the engine. So perhaps you tend to run it for only short periods. Evaporation or not, fool has been known to accoomoolate in the oil. Jim Muller, driving the GT6 to work now! _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Apr 14 11:11:33 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:11:33 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list Message-ID: <100689946.2293986.1271265093092.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> List, Called Moss. For a 1972 Triumph Tr6, need 1 foot of 1/4" and 2 feet of 5/16". Cost more to ship it than the line. Thanks, Craig On Apr 14, 2010, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: Jim, Interesting information. I had my fuel pump rebuilt last winter by TRF and they did a fantastic job. I do not know what substance they use in their diaphram, but Tom did call to tell me mine was ripped in several places. The car burns no oil. My entire carb setup was rebuilt by Jeff at Paltech, and that also was a fantastic job as others have described on the list that used him. My fuel lines have never been replaced by me, and your idea about a filter between the fool pump and the carbs is a good one. I see moss is now selling fuel lines by the inch that are not suppossed to break down. Anyone have a recommendation in inches how much would be needed to replace the fuel lines on a 1972 Triumph TR6? And, if I install a filter between the pump and the carbs, what type and model of filter should I use? Would you just use another normal fuel filter? Thanks, good stuff. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Apr 14, 2010, jimmuller at rcn.com wrote: Bob wrote: > When I drained the oil from the sump of my 72 project there > were over 8 quarts of oil/fuel. The PO said that gas was > getting into the oil somehow but didn't know how. I could > smell the gas in that oil! I had that happen on my GT6. It has been discussed before. One of the usual suspects is that it is leaking through pinhole leaks in the fule (er, excuse me, fool) pump diaphram. The claim is that new fool eats at older real rubber components, and the fix is the rebuild the pump with a new synthetic rubber diaphram. Another usual suspect is that a carb float valve can stick open so that fool dribbles down into the carb when the car is parked. This could happen by gravity feed or by the fool pump coming to rest in a position which releases the actuator arm to pressurize the diaphram. (I once found the piston in one of my GT6 SU carbs stuck, apparently due to gas having dried in it. Don't know whether this relates and it's hard to imagine, but what do I know?) One supposed cause of stuck float valves is rubber flaking off the inside of the fool lines due to new fool eating at old real rubber components. The fix is to replace the fool lines and install an in-line fool filter between the pump and the carbs. Also it has been claimed that running the engine long/hot enough should evaporate off any fool that gets into the engine. So perhaps you tend to run it for only short periods. Evaporation or not, fool has been known to accoomoolate in the oil. Jim Muller, driving the GT6 to work now! _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From lbc.resto at verizon.net Wed Apr 14 11:30:08 2010 From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 13:30:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 split calipers In-Reply-To: <152201cadbeb$53aee9d0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <522648.4332.qm@web113304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <152201cadbeb$53aee9d0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <35B7E1C6ED4840589ECADCD9264F9D51@RAS> I agree with Randall; I did that 4 years ago and no signs of leaks since. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 11:58 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 split calipers > so what would one suggest as a sealant for putting them > together again? Personally, I would just use new O-rings (available from Moss & TRF I believe) with a little clean brake fluid smeared on them. Don't want to take a chance on sealant (or the solvents in it) contaminating the fluid. Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lbc.resto at verizon.net From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Wed Apr 14 11:30:46 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 17:30:46 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list In-Reply-To: <20100414103824.AQX85104@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20100414103824.AQX85104@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <735545.90810.qm@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Jim Muller wrote: One supposed cause of stuck float valves is rubber flaking off the inside of the fool lines due to new fool eating at old real rubber components. Another reason for stuck float valves on SU's and Strombergs is gums/glues sticking to the fins of the needle valve itself. In my experience, this is the most common cause. Remove the valve and gently rub each fin with a piece of 600 grit paint flatting paper or very fine sandpaper. Before putting to one side before re-fitting, I always used a watchmakers glass or powerful magnifying glass to ensure there were no burrs at either end of each fin. Then wrap a piece of the same grade paper around a cotton bud and work it up and down the internal bore of the valve housing. You probably won't notice any deposits or muck on the paper itself - but you'll sure clean up the needle valve operating environment. Jonmac From chandler.rick at comcast.net Wed Apr 14 11:56:38 2010 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:56:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 split calipers (Frank Fisher) Message-ID: <3ED60E011F5741598550EE7BDC639397@ricksoffice> Hi Frank, I'm aware of the myth of splitting the TR3A calipers, often based on the claim that the torque values for the two connecting bolts are unknown. The two halves are sandwiched around a rubber seal, available as a new part from the usual suspects; this seal allows for the hydraulic path between the two halves. The 3/8" bolt is torqued to 40-45 ft-lbs; the 7/16" bolt is torqued to 60-70 ft-lbs. The bolts are high-tension steel, grade 8 I believe, and screw into threads in the mating iron caliper half. Although there is little risk of galling, I used a bit of copper anti-seize on the bolts when I rebuilt my calipers a few years ago. The two mating surfaces must be absolutely clean on assembly. Rick in Seattle 1960 TR3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special 1972 Norton Commando 750 Combat 1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 14 11:58:12 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:58:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list In-Reply-To: <20100414103824.AQX85104@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20100414103824.AQX85104@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <03f801cadbfc$0de28130$29a78390$@rr.com> > The claim is that new > fool eats at older real rubber components, and the fix is the rebuild > the pump with a new synthetic rubber diaphram. Indeed, I once installed a NOS AC diaphragm in my TR3A fuel pump, after inspecting it carefully for any pinholes or cracks. It looked brand new when it went in, but when I took it back out just a few weeks later, I could literally see light through it! The diaphragm was made of several layers of rubber-impregnated cloth, and the rubber was simply missing in some areas. > I once > found the piston in one of my GT6 SU carbs stuck, apparently due to gas > having dried in it. Don't know whether this relates and it's hard to > imagine, but what do I know?) This problem is not only real, but seems to me to have gotten much worse since our gasoline was "reformulated" a few years back. It used to dry to a gummy brown deposit (commonly called varnish) that would dissolve slowly (sometimes) in fresh fuel; and quickly in carb cleaner. But now it seems to dry to a hard white deposit that carb cleaner (at least the stuff I can buy here) won't touch. I opened up one of the float valves from my wrecked TR3A the other day, and it was full of white deposit even though I've recently driven it several hundred miles with fresh fuel (in the project TR3). > Evaporation or not, fool has been known to accoomoolate in the oil. My opinion is that fuel in the oil is never normal. It may happen without any worse defect than over-enthusiastic use of the choke, but it's not normal. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 14 12:06:17 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:06:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list In-Reply-To: <833967313.2291282.1271262577184.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> References: <833967313.2291282.1271262577184.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <03f901cadbfd$2e7b45c0$8b71d140$@rr.com> > I see moss is now selling fuel lines by the inch that are not suppossed > to break down. Any auto parts store will have them as well. > And, if I > install a filter between the pump and the carbs, what type and model of > filter should I use? Would you just use another normal fuel filter? Yup, lots of common filters that will work fine. One caution, though, if you select this style of filter http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Universal-Inline-Glass-Filter/dp/B000MT94OM Be sure to get one with metal ends rather than plastic. A friend of mine bought one that turned out to be plastic (even though the clear part was glass), and the plastic broke, dumping fuel all over his engine. -- Randall From Catpusher at aol.com Wed Apr 14 14:48:04 2010 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 16:48:04 EDT Subject: [TR] TR2/4A Rear Crank Seal installation Message-ID: <29049.2e8b7d04.38f78404@aol.com> TR2/4A Rear Crank Seal installation by: Hardy Prentice I spent many months researching this during 25 years of racing my TR3 at the National level. I have also built quite a number of TR2/4A race and street motors. I have been a TR owner since 1961 Making the factory seal work is not difficult with a factory TR2/4A crank. The factory TR4 manual images are a useful addition the TR2/3 ones, but both factory manuals have the same CRITICAL Error. The alignment tool drawing in both factory manuals needs to be changed to 2.818" where the tool fits inside the seal. The rest of the drawings in the TR2/3 & TR4/A factory manuals will work. The tool seal and bearing surfaces must be concentric. The handle is not necessary, and thick walled tubing can be used to save cost and weight. I was given a tool made to the workshop manual(s) sizes, and the motor that I rebuilt using it leaked oil very badly running on the dyno (no G forces involved)! Previously, I had used the back end of a crank with the flywheel flange sawed off, with used main brg. shells with thin paper (or thread) inside to fill the normal bearing clearance, and .0025b to.003b feeler gauges between the seal and threaded crank surface. (If you know the seal is working OK, feel free to reuse it as is, resealing the main brg cap sides to the block recess, and avoiding any damage to the seal.) 1. Use the tool to check the seal's ID for size and roundness by holding the seal ID to the 2.818b surface of the tool. Illumination behind the seal and tool help. 2. Hand work can usually make the seal fit the tool very well, or try another seal. (I made a jig from two rear main caps to size the seals in a lathe) 3. Install the tool in the block and the rear main cap first and carefully check that the seal halves will fit in the block recess with the tool in place, and the rear brg. cap torqued. There have been seals made where the seal step OD was too big for the block/cap ID. A problem here can be fixed by a hand file or grinder applied to the seal step OD. If you omit this step, you can destroy the seal and not realize it until too late. 4. Use a small amount of silicone sealant between the seal and block where the seal flange is bolted to the back side of the block/cap. (Go to the next step Before the sealant sets.) 5. By hand, press the seal halfs evenly towards the centralizing tool, then do not further move the seal halfs when you tighten the seal set screws. Allow time for it to set. . During final assembly, also use a small amount of silicone sealant on the seal split line, but VERY thinly, so that it does NOT block the internal threads of the seal. 6 Do not hurt the seal when you lay the crank in the block. 7. follow the manual(s) carefully. The rear main cap sealing felt needs to be soaked in something like aviation permatex, short pieces at a time, and then be driven into the recess on each side. A B References: <269979.462762.1271198230157.JavaMail.root@vms061.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <043d01cadc18$abc06900$03413b00$@rr.com> > I > run K&N air filters that are cleaned and re-oiled each spring. I am > not > suprised that ther is bearing wear, I assume that means you are aware that the K&Ns are not particularly good at removing dirt from the intake air. -- Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Apr 14 16:08:37 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 17:08:37 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list Message-ID: <734264456.745127.1271282917403.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net> /xrR7qz: Permission denied From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Apr 14 16:09:09 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 17:09:09 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list Message-ID: <789632510.745149.1271282949788.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net> Very aware, still prefer them. Craig On Apr 14, 2010, Randall wrote: > I > run K&N air filters that are cleaned and re-oiled each spring. I am > not > suprised that ther is bearing wear, I assume that means you are aware that the K&Ns are not particularly good at removing dirt from the intake air. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 14 16:10:15 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 15:10:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list In-Reply-To: <043d01cadc18$abc06900$03413b00$@rr.com> References: <269979.462762.1271198230157.JavaMail.root@vms061.mailsrvcs.net> <043d01cadc18$abc06900$03413b00$@rr.com> Message-ID: <444831.61463.qm@web113309.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> i would like to buy a really good set of air filters for my TR3. any one have any suggestions? Frank ________________________________ From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, April 14, 2010 2:23:04 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Promise of oil analysis to the list > I > run K&N air filters that are cleaned and re-oiled each spring. I am > not > suprised that ther is bearing wear, I assume that means you are aware that the K&Ns are not particularly good at removing dirt from the intake air. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 14 17:15:05 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 16:15:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/4A Rear Crank Seal installation In-Reply-To: <29049.2e8b7d04.38f78404@aol.com> References: <29049.2e8b7d04.38f78404@aol.com> Message-ID: <045d01cadc28$51e4eb80$f5aec280$@rr.com> Hi Hardy, thanks for the detailed description. You wrote: > (I made a jig from two rear main caps to size the seals > in a lathe) Does this mean you removed material from the mating faces and then bored the seal back to round? (Kind of like line-boring an engine block) > 8. The tool can be used to align a seal with the crank in > place...Interested? Someone was asking that very question recently, plus I'd like to know how you do it. Please tell us. -- Randall From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed Apr 14 17:31:16 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 19:31:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] low compression on cylinder no. 6 References: <4BC47A42.7000709@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I would suggest that the spark plug be removed when spinning the engine after a liberal soaking. If liquid remains it will not compress and could cause further damage if the plug is replaced. Otherwise a good idea. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 10:38 AM Subject: Re: [TR] low compression on cylinder no. 6 > Lets harken back to yesteryear with a old Ford approach. Why not drain > the > oil from the engine and then spray #6 cylinder liberally with kerosene or > your > favorite penetrating solvent. Let it set for several days with > intermittent > reapplications. Then turn the engine on the starter for a few hundred > revolutions and take another compression test. > > Best regards, > Tom > > > >> Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:05:54 -0400 >> From: dmb993 at earthlink.net >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] low compression on cylinder no. 6 >> >> Folks, >> >> I put my TR250 to bed about a year ago, didn't do any >> special preparation, just parked it in my garage and shut her >> down. Today I did a compression test on the cold engine and >> all cylinders are 170psi (or so) but number 6 is 90psi. I squirted >> some lightweight oil (all I had on hand) into no. 6 and the psi >> increased to 140psi. The car has been used sporadically, >> spending lots of time sitting. I'm thinking a stuck ring on the piston >> groove. Any other ideas? If it's a stuck ring what are the chances >> of an easy fix (removing the piston, freeing the ring, re-insertion >> into the bore, wishful thinking :)) >> >> Thanks, >> David Brady >> '68 TR250 >> CD8124L From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Apr 14 18:19:41 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 00:19:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Spark Plug Cap In-Reply-To: <734264456.745127.1271282917403.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <313602723.17473351271290781548.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Second time it's happened over the past couple of years. Driving from work in the TR3A, get a single cylinder misfire, runs rough, corrects itself shortly. Pop the hood and it's easy to find. One of the spark plug caps has come loose and makes a poor, sometimes not, connect. Tighten them up and things are fine for quite a while. I thought about lock-tite, but don't have faith in the electrical conductivity. Thoughts? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 19:24:11 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 21:24:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] low compression on cylinder no. 6 In-Reply-To: References: <4BC47A42.7000709@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Reminds me of when my brother poured 2 bottles of automatic transmission fluif down the carb of our 64 Malibu in hopes of cleaning the valves. The last swigs killed the engine and it would not restart. He pulled the spark plugs and turned the engine over just as my mom walked over in a white blouse - Fluif everywhere!!! Poor brother never had a chance..... Chris On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 7:31 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > I would suggest that the spark plug be removed when spinning the engine > after a liberal soaking. If liquid remains it will not compress and could > cause further damage if the plug is replaced. Otherwise a good idea. > JVV From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 14 20:02:04 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 19:02:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spark Plug Cap In-Reply-To: <313602723.17473351271290781548.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <734264456.745127.1271282917403.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net> <313602723.17473351271290781548.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <04b401cadc3f$a5ea5a50$f1bf0ef0$@rr.com> > One of the spark > plug caps has come loose and makes a poor, sometimes not, connect. Are you talking about the little screw-on collar? I tighten them down very firmly (using pliers and a spark plug socket), then add a drop of Loctite through the end. For the plug boot that fits over the collar, try crushing the female sleeve a bit with pliers. Usually can be done right through the boot without harming the boot. -- Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Apr 14 20:16:31 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 20:16:31 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?low_compression_on_cylinder_no=2E_6?= Message-ID: <20100415021631.49ACC187644@autox.team.net> I had two guys come over to look at a mga I had for sale. I had filled the cylinders with arc and put corks in the plug holes. One guy was in the cockpit with the other bent over the engine when I came back from a phone call. Before I could say anything, the guy inside pulled the starter knob. Large stripes of atf appeared in his hair, on his pants and on his shirt. Oops. He said, 'rings must be good.' Without missing a beat! Best, ray Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Chris Simo" Date: Wed, Apr 14, 2010 20:24 Subject: [TR] low compression on cylinder no. 6 To: "list Triumph" Reminds me of when my brother poured 2 bottles of automatic transmission fluif down the carb of our 64 Malibu in hopes of cleaning the valves. The last swigs killed the engine and it would not restart. He pulled the spark plugs and turned the engine over just as my mom walked over in a white blouse - Fluif everywhere!!! Poor brother never had a chance..... Chris On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 7:31 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > I would suggest that the spark plug be removed when spinning the engine > after a liberal soaking. If liquid remains it will not compress and could > cause further damage if the plug is replaced. Otherwise a good idea. > JVV _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From wbeech at flash.net Wed Apr 14 22:01:52 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 22:01:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spark Plug Cap In-Reply-To: <313602723.17473351271290781548.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <734264456.745127.1271282917403.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net> <313602723.17473351271290781548.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Terry , You are right, lock-tite is probably not the answer. It is just a friction-fit, give it a light squeeze with a pair of pliers and you should be OK. If everything is too worn for a squeeze, maybe a new set of caps in in order? Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 6:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spark Plug Cap Second time it's happened over the past couple of years. Driving from work in the TR3A, get a single cylinder misfire, runs rough, corrects itself shortly. Pop the hood and it's easy to find. One of the spark plug caps has come loose and makes a poor, sometimes not, connect. Tighten them up and things are fine for quite a while. I thought about lock-tite, but don't have faith in the electrical conductivity. Thoughts? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Thu Apr 15 08:19:15 2010 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 09:19:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB7273AD@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> List- I need your collective help. I have a relatively new restoration of a TR 250 and the carbs were rebuilt in the Summer of 2008. Since then, the car has run relatively care free. However, after a few month lay off, I tried driving it in March, only to smell a strong gas smell once started. I left the car running, popped the hood and determined gas was pouring out of the float bowl of the rear carburetor. Last night, a friend and I tore down the carbs and found a small amount of dirt in the rear carb, installed Grose jets in both reassembled them and the same thing occurred in the rear carb only. We then removed the carbs, inspected both and adjusted the float to 11/16ths as the rebuild kit suggested. Same result. We are baffled about why the rear carb is overflowing gas from the rear carburetor. Any ideas of what we do next? Many thanks in advance. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY 1963 Jaguar Mk II RHD 1968 Triumph TR 250 1963 Harley Davidson Topper 2000 Indian Chief 2007 Harley Davidson Heritage Springer Classic From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Apr 15 09:27:25 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:27:25 EDT Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes Message-ID: <5af7d.2c2f6bd0.38f88a5d@cs.com> In a message dated 4/15/2010 10:18:52 AM Central Daylight Time, sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com writes: > I need your collective help. > > I have a relatively new restoration of a TR 250 and the carbs were > rebuilt in the Summer of 2008. Since then, the car has run relatively > care free. > > However, after a few month lay off, I tried driving it in March, only to > smell a strong gas smell once started. I left the car running, popped > the hood and determined gas was pouring out of the float bowl of the > rear carburetor. > > Last night, a friend and I tore down the carbs and found a small amount > of dirt in the rear carb, installed Grose jets in both reassembled them > and the same thing occurred in the rear carb only. We then removed the > carbs, inspected both and adjusted the float to 11/16ths as the rebuild > kit suggested. Same result. We are baffled about why the rear carb is > overflowing gas from the rear carburetor. Any ideas of what we do next? > > Many thanks in advance. > The float chamber is vented to a port on the face of the carburetor near the main air inlet. It is important that this vent not be clogged. Check this out for some foreign material such as a cob web or a misaligned gasket. If the air can't get out of the chamber the level will never rise to close off the float valve and the excess gas will pump through the jet and flood the engine. Dave From dlylis at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 09:48:20 2010 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 15:48:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes Message-ID: I have had the same problem with a 69 TR6 (Z-S) with Grose and it did not go away until I replaced them with standard issue. ------Original Message------ From: Steve Thornton Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: John Swauger Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes Sent: Apr 15, 2010 10:19 AM List- I need your collective help. I have a relatively new restoration of a TR 250 and the carbs were rebuilt in the Summer of 2008. Since then, the car has run relatively care free. However, after a few month lay off, I tried driving it in March, only to smell a strong gas smell once started. I left the car running, popped the hood and determined gas was pouring out of the float bowl of the rear carburetor. Last night, a friend and I tore down the carbs and found a small amount of dirt in the rear carb, installed Grose jets in both reassembled them and the same thing occurred in the rear carb only. We then removed the carbs, inspected both and adjusted the float to 11/16ths as the rebuild kit suggested. Same result. We are baffled about why the rear carb is overflowing gas from the rear carburetor. Any ideas of what we do next? Many thanks in advance. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY 1963 Jaguar Mk II RHD 1968 Triumph TR 250 1963 Harley Davidson Topper 2000 Indian Chief 2007 Harley Davidson Heritage Springer Classic _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Apr 15 12:24:32 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 14:24:32 EDT Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes Message-ID: <64703.576f5657.38f8b3e0@aol.com> In a message dated 4/15/2010 12:19:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, dlylis at gmail.com writes: I have had the same problem with a 69 TR6 (Z-S) with Grose and it did not go away until I replaced them with standard issue. Steve, The gross jets had a bad run a number of years ago. I therefore throw them into the trash if I run across any. I once was left on the autocross staging area @ a VTR National in Rockford, IL with my TR3B puking fuel due to those _%*&^$#@%s_ (mailto:*&^$#@) !!!!! I also have had the standard issue type go bad too. Just not as often. Normally if one taps the float bowl with a screwdriver they will sometimes close shut. Dirt and contamination from the fuel tank getting past the filter is usually the problem. I have even seen little slivers of rubber hose clog the jets so make sure all fuel hoses are in good shape The float chamber ventilation that Dave speaks of is very real too. I once washed out the rod bearings of my newly rebuild Spitfire 1500 motor due to that problem. Gas in the sump! Darrell From FordneyNJ at aol.com Thu Apr 15 14:35:57 2010 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:35:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Subject: TR 250 carb woes Message-ID: <70538.6d2581a1.38f8d2ad@aol.com> I had the same problem with my TR 7 Z-S's and from what I hear from others, it's always the rear carb. It doesn't take much crud in the jet to prevent it from shutting off the fuel. I'd look there again. Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ President, Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS CTC 60536 L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 From: Steve Thornton Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes Sent: Apr 15, 2010 10:19 AM List- I need your collective help. I have a relatively new restoration of a TR 250 and the carbs were rebuilt in the Summer of 2008. Since then, the car has run relatively care free. However, after a few month lay off, I tried driving it in March, only to smell a strong gas smell once started. I left the car running, popped the hood and determined gas was pouring out of the float bowl of the rear carburetor. Last night, a friend and I tore down the carbs and found a small amount of dirt in the rear carb, installed Grose jets in both reassembled them and the same thing occurred in the rear carb only. We then removed the carbs, inspected both and adjusted the float to 11/16ths as the rebuild kit suggested. Same result. We are baffled about why the rear carb is overflowing gas from the rear carburetor. Any ideas of what we do next? Many thanks in advance. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY 1963 Jaguar Mk II RHD 1968 Triumph TR 250 1963 Harley Davidson Topper 2000 Indian Chief 2007 Harley Davidson Heritage Springer Classic From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 15 15:21:11 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 14:21:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes In-Reply-To: <64703.576f5657.38f8b3e0@aol.com> References: <64703.576f5657.38f8b3e0@aol.com> Message-ID: <05e601cadce1$9337f230$b9a7d690$@rr.com> +1 on the Grose Jets. The cure is worse than the disease. -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Apr 15 15:59:26 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 21:59:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Valve Cover In-Reply-To: <70538.6d2581a1.38f8d2ad@aol.com> Message-ID: <1089369481.17895121271368766869.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> This is almost too elementary to be possible. Which is why, of course, it mystifies me! Chasing the oil leak on the TR3A, I had advice from the list about the potential for distortion of the valve cover. Particularly likely since I bought it used off E-Bay years ago and it's not correct. It has one of those threaded holes for the evacuation hose that must go to the intake for reburning, but which I plugged with a ss bolt. Anyway, today I felt the edges for the first time and find it overlaps the head surface on the dizzy side by three-eights, maybe more, meaning the Justin Wagner seal only partially contacts the head surface. I don't know if it's fixable. Two questions: 1) Is the 3 valve cover narrower than the 4 (or could it be an MGB, something like that?)? 2) Wife gave me a pressure washer a couple of Christmases ago. Any recommendations on the soap to use? Cascade dishwasher? Carwash? As usual, thanks everyone! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Apr 15 16:41:50 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:41:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes In-Reply-To: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB7273AD@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> References: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB7273AD@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Message-ID: Steve, You've gotten lots of good advise on the cause and I agree. Here's how I deal with clogged fuel needle valves. First get used to taking off the bottom half of the fuel chamber bowls with the carbs still on. You'll get better and better at it...I did after about the first 10-15 times. With them off pour the fuel into a white plastic bowl to see what you've got clogging the needle valves. You can then start figuring out what part of the fuel system to replace first. I started with lining the tank with an Eastwood kit and progressed through all the fuel hoses and lines all the way to the carbs. Got a lot of experience cleaning those fuel bowls in the process of finding out "did they stay clean this time?" . I even put in temporary extra fuel filters (2 with extra hoses) between the fuel pump and carbs to get the specs out that kept reappearing in the bowls. It finally work most of it (pretty sure it was varnish since the specs crumbled into particles that looked like varnish) got cleared out of the system but to this day I still make sure to clean the bowls before going on a long trip...just part of the routine stuff now that I can whip them suckers on and off in a half hour. Never fails to make it run smoother. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Apr 15, 2010, at 8:19 AM, Steve Thornton wrote: > List- > > > I need your collective help. > > I have a relatively new restoration of a TR 250 and the carbs were > rebuilt in the Summer of 2008. Since then, the car has run relatively > care free. > > However, after a few month lay off, I tried driving it in March, > only to > smell a strong gas smell once started. I left the car running, popped > the hood and determined gas was pouring out of the float bowl of the > rear carburetor. > > Last night, a friend and I tore down the carbs and found a small > amount > of dirt in the rear carb, installed Grose jets in both reassembled > them > and the same thing occurred in the rear carb only. We then removed the > carbs, inspected both and adjusted the float to 11/16ths as the > rebuild > kit suggested. Same result. We are baffled about why the rear carb is > overflowing gas from the rear carburetor. Any ideas of what we do > next? > > Many thanks in advance. > > > Steve Thornton > Bowling Green, KY > > 1963 Jaguar Mk II RHD > 1968 Triumph TR 250 > 1963 Harley Davidson Topper > 2000 Indian Chief > 2007 Harley Davidson Heritage Springer Classic > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From fishplate at charter.net Thu Apr 15 17:55:17 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:55:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes In-Reply-To: <05e601cadce1$9337f230$b9a7d690$@rr.com> References: <64703.576f5657.38f8b3e0@aol.com> <05e601cadce1$9337f230$b9a7d690$@rr.com> Message-ID: <5zuh1e00X5K6Zm805zuhCC@charter.net> At 05:21 PM 4/15/2010, you wrote: >+1 on the Grose Jets. The cure is worse than the disease. As another data point, I have a 75 TR6 with Grose Jets. The car suffered from never being driven before I got it. In my case, FWIW, the valves were stuck shut. I disassembled the carbs and soaked the jets in a bit of solvent. Put it all back together, and it runs like a top. Maybe there were some bad ones, but there are some good ones out there too. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 15 19:10:40 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:10:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] spam Message-ID: <269843.30885.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I'm just very curious. i opened this yahoo account a few months ago when the list was having trouble with my aol account. i use it exclusively for the this list only. now it seems i signed up as "Joe" who attended Dublin high school in Ohio and I'm just dying to know the guys and gals i went to school with. and they mail me daily to tell me who else is wanting to meet me. except of course I'm frank and i went to school in Liverpool UK. have you guys been signed up for a strange school in some state you never lived in? frank From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Apr 15 19:53:49 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 21:53:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes In-Reply-To: <64703.576f5657.38f8b3e0@aol.com> References: <64703.576f5657.38f8b3e0@aol.com> Message-ID: I thing you might have been trying to use some illegal traction enhancement fluid to drip on your tires. I'm going to have to check the rule book on that one:) Marty The gross jets had a bad run a number of years ago. I therefore throw them into the trash if I run across any. I once was left on the autocross staging area @ a VTR National in Rockford, IL with my TR3B puking fuel due to those _%*&^$#@%s_ (mailto:*&^$#@) !!!!! Darrell _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 From tr4driver at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 19:57:56 2010 From: tr4driver at gmail.com (Kurtis J.) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:57:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Valve Cover In-Reply-To: <1089369481.17895121271368766869.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <70538.6d2581a1.38f8d2ad@aol.com> <1089369481.17895121271368766869.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Terry, I believe the TR3 valve cover is the same size as the TR4, but the oil filler is on the opposite end. I actually have a TR3 valve cover that I don't need and would gladly send you if you want it. It's not in the best shape in the world, but I suspect it could be cleaned up and re-chromed. -- Kurtis Russellville, Arkansas 1963 TR4 - CT19389L 1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250 www.vintagebritishcars.com On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 4:59 PM, wrote: > This is almost too elementary to be possible. Which is why, of course, it mystifies me! > > Chasing the oil leak on the TR3A, I had advice from the list about the potential for distortion of the valve cover. Particularly likely since I bought it used off E-Bay years ago and it's not correct. It has one of those threaded holes for the evacuation hose that must go to the intake for reburning, but which I plugged with a ss bolt. > > Anyway, today I felt the edges for the first time and find it overlaps the head surface on the dizzy side by three-eights, maybe more, meaning the Justin Wagner seal only partially contacts the head surface. I don't know if it's fixable. > > Two questions: > > 1) Is the 3 valve cover narrower than the 4 (or could it be an MGB, something like that?)? > > 2) Wife gave me a pressure washer a couple of Christmases ago. Any recommendations on the soap to use? Cascade dishwasher? Carwash? > > As usual, thanks everyone! > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 15 21:16:37 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:16:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Valve Cover In-Reply-To: <1089369481.17895121271368766869.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <70538.6d2581a1.38f8d2ad@aol.com> <1089369481.17895121271368766869.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <184101cadd13$3a0650d0$0301a8c0@randall> > Anyway, today I felt the edges for the first time and find it > overlaps the head surface on the dizzy side by three-eights, > maybe more, meaning the Justin Wagner seal only partially > contacts the head surface. I don't know if it's fixable. If I am reading this right, Terry, that is actually normal, or at least nearly so. The lip of the stock cover hangs over the edge of the cylinder head, out into space, so that even part of the stock gasket (which fits entirely inside the lip) is not in contact with the head. Justin's gasket wraps around the lip of the cover (to help ensure it's located properly, I believe) and so it hangs out into space as well. If you look at the lip of the cover, I believe you'll find it comes down from the flat side into a low spot, then kicks back up slightly and down again into the final edge. That initial low spot is the sealing surface, so as long as it winds up above the flat mating surface on the head, all should be well. Sometimes it does bow out, from extreme overtightening, in which case it needs to be either bent back, or replaced. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Thu Apr 15 22:21:42 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:21:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] spam In-Reply-To: <269843.30885.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <269843.30885.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7A0043A5C6B342F8A589C04BE7532E01@bboffice> Not yet, I am still getting strange emails from the school I DID attend. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 7:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] spam I'm just very curious. i opened this yahoo account a few months ago when the list was having trouble with my aol account. i use it exclusively for the this list only. now it seems i signed up as "Joe" who attended Dublin high school in Ohio and I'm just dying to know the guys and gals i went to school with. and they mail me daily to tell me who else is wanting to meet me. except of course I'm frank and i went to school in Liverpool UK. have you guys been signed up for a strange school in some state you never lived in? frank _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Apr 15 23:08:38 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 05:08:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] spam In-Reply-To: <269843.30885.qm@web113301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1022691243.12449071271394518070.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> frank, perhaps you were engulfed in the invasion of the body snatchers, taken to dublin, ohio and brainwashed into just thinking you were in school in liverpool.B the school system in liverpool will have, of course, a set of falsified grades, courses, etc. you supposedly were exposed to....remember "the prisoner"? there ya go, all explained....!B B B Energy Management is the hallmark of a professional pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 8:10:40 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: [TR] spam I'm just very curious. i opened this yahoo account a few months ago when the list was having trouble with my aol account. i use it exclusively for the this list only. now it seems i signed up as "Joe" who attended Dublin high school in Ohio and I'm just dying to know the guys and gals i went to school with. and they mail me daily to tell me who else is wanting to meet me. except of course I'm frank and i went to school in Liverpool UK. have you guys been signed up for a strange school in some state you never lived in? frank _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From Catpusher at aol.com Thu Apr 15 23:30:29 2010 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 01:30:29 EDT Subject: [TR] TR2/4A Rear Crank Seal installation Message-ID: <8802e.24fcd89e.38f94ff5@aol.com> Hi Randall, thanks for all of your great posts! After the one seal failure on the dyno, where the oil actually made it to the ceiling of Huffaker's dyno room (most embarrassing, although Joe was understanding) I spent a great deal of time asking many people what they knew about this kind of oil seal. No one could tell me how deep the threads in the seal needed to be, so I bored a number of seals, and they all worked with some reduced depth. In addition to dressing the split line, one can hammer on the seal face to close the ID; an old school secret from a dear departed friend. I wanted to test the length of the first message, to see if MJB's wonderful system would truncate the end; as that is a most appropriate part of this fine system. I will soon post how to change a seal in place, but part one had to be posted first. btw: do to no fault of my own, the dyno day was on the Friday when I had to make it to Barstow, CA by Sunday night to arrive at the Atlanta ARRC in time. It was very late when I returned to SF Friday, with the TR motor where the GT6+ passenger's seat normally was (also how I drove the motor to the dyno) I had to pull the crank, as I had not yet figured out how to avoid that, install a used crank seal with the old, modified crank, and put it back together with the good crank. I then had to install the motor in the race car, pack, hook the TR3 to the back of the E Type, and drive. I was very happy when the race motor had no leak after the first track session at Road Atlanta, as that was my first chance to find out. Hardy In a message dated 4/14/2010 4:15:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Hi Hardy, thanks for the detailed description. You wrote: > (I made a jig from two rear main caps to size the seals > in a lathe) Does this mean you removed material from the mating faces and then bored the seal back to round? (Kind of like line-boring an engine block) > 8. The tool can be used to align a seal with the crank in > place...Interested? Someone was asking that very question recently, plus I'd like to know how you do it. Please tell us. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Apr 16 06:15:34 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:15:34 EDT Subject: [TR] spam Message-ID: <91680.7f3736e5.38f9aee6@cs.com> In a message dated 4/15/2010 9:00:40 PM Central Daylight Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > now it seems i signed up as "Joe" who attended Dublin high school in Ohio > and I'm just dying to know the guys and gals i went to school with. and > they mail me daily to tell me who else is wanting to meet me. > except of course I'm frank and i went to school in Liverpool UK. > have you guys been signed up for a strange school in some state you never > lived in? > You know, Dublin isn't all that far from Liverpool so it's easy to see the confusion. But can you blame them for wanting another scouser in their midst? Dave (Lovely Spam, wonderful Spam) From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Apr 16 08:17:24 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:17:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Changing TR6 Rear Diff Mounts Message-ID: <960083.93182.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> What's involved in changing the front & rear differential mounts on a TR6? Do you have to completely drop the diff or can you loosen bolts and slide the new mounts in? Does anything else have to come out? Also, I am "waking up" a low mileage car that has sat since the 80's. I topped up the diff and now it is pretty wet on the outside. Are there other leak sources besides the pinion seal in front? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Apr 16 09:36:20 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:36:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 Message-ID: <847546.52558.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am looking at some used Miata seats and thinking about putting them in my TR6. They look good. Do all year Miata seats fit in? TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Apr 16 10:13:58 2010 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:13:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? Message-ID: <77AF0AF214F44E12BAD97C64003748F3@DaveLaptop> Hi Everybody, I remember a thread a few days (weeks?) back about the efficiency of various air filters with K&N not getting an especially good mark. What is the consensus about air filters? I have TR4A IRS with SU's. Months away from needing air filters but just thought I would ask. Thanks, Dave Connitt From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Apr 16 10:43:48 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:43:48 +0000 Subject: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 In-Reply-To: <847546.52558.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <847546.52558.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F50A418E@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Bill, I think they will all fit although there are differences in the fabric used over the years and the later car seats don't have the speakers in the headrests but they may be retrofittable. In any case the earlier seats (90 to 97) with speakers need the factory speakers replaced with small full range speakers like these: http://www.3rdstrategy.com/Miata.htm The factory speakers only work well with the Miata audio system. The Miata seat rails will need adapting to use the standard TR6 floor holes. Most of us built/bought brackets to achieve this after a slight modification of the Miata runners. The mod is described in some detail in the Williams book on improving your TR6, TR250, TR5 Brackets often advertised on eBay. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 11:36 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 I am looking at some used Miata seats and thinking about putting them in my TR6. They look good. Do all year Miata seats fit in? TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Apr 16 11:39:18 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:39:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Changing TR6 Rear Diff Mounts Message-ID: <93a3.695bae36.38f9fac6@cs.com> In a message dated 4/16/2010 10:19:35 AM Central Daylight Time, wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: > What's involved in changing the front &rear differential mounts on a > TR6? Do you have to completely drop the diff or can you loosen bolts and > slide > the new mounts in? Does anything else have to come out? Also, I am > "waking > up" a low mileage car that has sat since the 80's. I topped up the diff > and > now it is pretty wet on the outside. Are there other leak sources besides > the > pinion seal in front? TIA, > Hi Bill. The differential mounts on four studs that extend down from the frame. The diff mounts must be lowered enough to clear these studs, approximately 4 - 6 inches. You will have to disconnect the driveshaft to get it to drop that far. You may have to disconnect the half shafts as well. Once you have gone that far dropping the differential out altogether is no more work, really. Oil can leak out of any seal and joint. There are three seals, pinion and two half shaft seals. There is a gasket where the front and rear sections join together. This joint can leak. Another potential source are the fill and drain plugs. Using pipe dope on these threads can help. Cheers Dave From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Apr 16 13:24:54 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:24:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 In-Reply-To: <847546.52558.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <847546.52558.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bill, Only the early years ('90 - '95) fit but someone also told me that the '96 & '97 seats will fit. The ones I got were from a '93. I wrote the whole thing up here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm and they looked so good in leather that I ended up making myself new interior panels covered in leather to match http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanel.htm Another excellent write up on installing them in a TR6 can be found at Paul Rego's site http://www.74tr6.com/miataseats.htm You might also drop in and ask about seats in the Miata Forum http://forum.miata.net/ Great guys who were vey helpful and also gave me leads on finding seats. These guys http://isellmiataparts.com/ had a bunch of seats last year. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "William Brewer" Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 11:36 AM To: "Triumphs" Subject: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 > I am looking at some used Miata seats and thinking about putting them > in > my TR6. They look good. Do all year Miata seats fit in? TIA, > -Bill in Tehachapi > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Apr 16 13:35:07 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:35:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F50A418E@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <847546.52558.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F50A418E@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <5B9BD3D5806C474FA6A051F108AA02FF@BobPC> Stan......... when you get to the later seats, they're too wide across the shoulders and interfere with convertible top's bracket. Ken Hiebert bought the wrong ones for his car and ended up doing so serious modifications on the bracket so that his top will go up and down. But you're "spot on" about the speaker recommendation. With the headrest speakers you can actually hear the radio with the top down at 70 mph. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 12:43 PM To: "William Brewer" ; "Triumphs" Subject: Re: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 > Bill, I think they will all fit although there are differences in the > fabric > used over the years and the later car seats don't have the speakers in the > headrests but they may be retrofittable. In any case the earlier seats (90 > to > 97) with speakers need the factory speakers replaced with small full range > speakers like these: > > http://www.3rdstrategy.com/Miata.htm > > The factory speakers only work well with the Miata audio system. > > The Miata seat rails will need adapting to use the standard TR6 floor > holes. > Most of us built/bought brackets to achieve this after a slight > modification > of the Miata runners. The mod is described in some detail in the Williams > book > on improving your TR6, TR250, TR5 > > Brackets often advertised on eBay. > > Stan > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of William Brewer > Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 11:36 AM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 > > I am looking at some used Miata seats and thinking about putting them > in > my TR6. They look good. Do all year Miata seats fit in? TIA, > -Bill in Tehachapi > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Apr 16 13:59:47 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:59:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] MAZDA SEAT CONVERSION FOR TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCABB6800AB390-52D4-7B32@Webmail-d116.sysops.aol.com> Bill, Sean Alexander was producing conversion kits for Uncle Jack at the time Jack died at Grattan. Sean continued this production with the approval of Jack's family, and has them on the shelf right now. Sean's email address is seanax at iowalaser.com I have no ownership in this Triumph project....Sean worked with Jack on the design for manufacturability. They are powdercoated and includes hardware and instructions. WEBSITE: danielsonfamily.org contains a comprehensive write up on the installation along with pictures. Joe A ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 ate: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:15:34 EDT rom: Dave1massey at cs.com ubject: Re: [TR] spam o: triumphs at autox.team.net ------------------------------ ------------------------------ Message: 3 ate: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:36:20 -0700 (PDT) rom: William Brewer ubject: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 o: Triumphs essage-ID: <847546.52558.qm at web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> ontent-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am looking at some used Miata seats and thinking about putting them in y TR6. They look good. Do all year Miata seats fit in? TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi ----------------------------- Message: 4 ----------------------------- Message: 5 ate: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:43:48 +0000 rom: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" ubject: Re: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 o: William Brewer , Triumphs essage-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F50A418E at G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> ontent-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Bill, I think they will all fit although there are differences in the fabric sed over the years and the later car seats don't have the speakers in the eadrests but they may be retrofittable. In any case the earlier seats (90 to 7) with speakers need the factory speakers replaced with small full range peakers like these: http://www.3rdstrategy.com/Miata.htm The factory speakers only work well with the Miata audio system. The Miata seat rails will need adapting to use the standard TR6 floor holes. ost of us built/bought brackets to achieve this after a slight modification f the Miata runners. The mod is described in some detail in the Williams book n improving your TR6, TR250, TR5 Brackets often advertised on eBay. Stan -----Original Message----- rom: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] n Behalf Of William Brewer ent: Friday, April 16, 2010 11:36 AM o: Triumphs ubject: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 I am looking at some used Miata seats and thinking about putting them in y TR6. They look good. Do all year Miata seats fit in? TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi ----------------------------- From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Apr 16 14:10:57 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:10:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Door Pulls In-Reply-To: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC> References: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC> Message-ID: <2978EB5678294213B7937C0A9C8FBEA2@BobPC> Hi all............... I posted this question about a month ago and was quickly informed that the door pulls from a TR4 were a perfect fit. So I figured I should share with you how they look on the leather panels I made this winter. As always thanks for help. A door pull picture is here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanels/DoorPull6.jpg I did a custom leather door cap and went with pleated leather door panels. My new leather interior is here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanel.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 10:31 PM To: ; "6 pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] Door Pulls > I'm thinking of doing away with the stock interior door pull for the late > TR6 > and try to find a retro-like pull handle. There's a bunch out there for > MGB, > Sprite, TR4 etc but I'm hoping for one that would match up with the > existing > screw holes that are 4-7/8" center to center. Has anybody done this or > have a > part# that would fit? > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Apr 16 14:55:47 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 20:55:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 In-Reply-To: <5B9BD3D5806C474FA6A051F108AA02FF@BobPC> References: <847546.52558.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F50A418E@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> <5B9BD3D5806C474FA6A051F108AA02FF@BobPC> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F50A562C@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Thanks for the clarification Bob. Mine are mid-90's and I know we have some later ones in the club but I didn't realize there were versions that don't fit so that is good to know. Do we know what time period we need to avoid ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 3:35 PM To: Foster, Stan (HP IT); William Brewer; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 Stan......... when you get to the later seats, they're too wide across the shoulders and interfere with convertible top's bracket. Ken Hiebert bought the wrong ones for his car and ended up doing so serious modifications on the bracket so that his top will go up and down. But you're "spot on" about the speaker recommendation. With the headrest speakers you can actually hear the radio with the top down at 70 mph. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 12:43 PM To: "William Brewer" ; "Triumphs" Subject: Re: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 > Bill, I think they will all fit although there are differences in the > fabric > used over the years and the later car seats don't have the speakers in the > headrests but they may be retrofittable. In any case the earlier seats (90 > to > 97) with speakers need the factory speakers replaced with small full range > speakers like these: > > http://www.3rdstrategy.com/Miata.htm > > The factory speakers only work well with the Miata audio system. > > The Miata seat rails will need adapting to use the standard TR6 floor > holes. > Most of us built/bought brackets to achieve this after a slight > modification > of the Miata runners. The mod is described in some detail in the Williams > book > on improving your TR6, TR250, TR5 > > Brackets often advertised on eBay. > > Stan > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of William Brewer > Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 11:36 AM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] What Year Miata Seats Fit TR6 > > I am looking at some used Miata seats and thinking about putting them > in > my TR6. They look good. Do all year Miata seats fit in? TIA, > -Bill in Tehachapi > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 16 15:12:57 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 14:12:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Changing TR6 Rear Diff Mounts In-Reply-To: <960083.93182.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <960083.93182.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <079b01cadda9$96ab7130$c4025390$@rr.com> > What's involved in changing the front & rear differential mounts > on a TR6? IMO it would be wise to completely drop the diff anyway. TR6 are famous for breaking differential mounts, and you can't always tell how bad the damage is with the diff in place. The one I helped with was supposedly a low mileage car, but when we got the diff out we could see where the mounts were cracked and on their way to breaking. -- Randall From thebujas at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 17:17:10 2010 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:17:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mark Joslyn's Triumph Collection to be auctioned on April 24 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I'm on the Digest so I'm not sure if this has already been posted today, so please forgive me if you've received this more than once. This auction has been horribly promoted so this may be your chance to find a bargain if you're in the midwest. Mark Joslyn, co-founder of the Central Illinois Triumph Owners Association and the Champagne British Car Festival, left us way too soon when he passed away last May. http://www.wvbscc.org/citoa/markjoslyn/ (Scroll to the bottom of the page to turn off the music.) His collection of Triumphs (and one TVR) and toys & collectibles is being auctioned starting Saturday, April 24, 2010 at 11:00 AM EDT at the 4H Community Building at the Vermillion County Fairgrounds in Cayuga, Indiana Info from BaT: http://bringatrailer.com/2010/04/16/next-saturday-15-triumph-estate-auction/ Cars being auctioned include: 1949 Triumph 2000 Roadster, right hand drive 1959 Triumph TR10 Estate Wagon 1962 Triumph HC-12 Herald Convertible 1962 Triumph TR4 Convertible 1960s Triumph Vitesse? Sport 6 parts car 1963 Triumph Sport 6 Convertible 1963 Triumph Sport 6 Convertible 1963 Triumph TR4 Convertible 1963 Triumph TR4 Convertible 1963 Triumph TR Convertible w/ Ford 302 conversion 1968 Triumph GT6 Coupe, red 1968 Triumph GT6 Coupe, blue 1973 Triumph TR6 1974 Triumph TVR 2500M (BaT: Okay, not really a Triumph) 1980 Triumph Spitfire 1500 Auction details are available here: http://www.lenhartauction.com/auction_detail.php?id=131793 Online bidding is available for the following lots: Collection of 15 Triumph automobiles including 1949 2000 Roadster and 1959 T10 Estate Wagon, 1974 TVR 2500M, (4) TR4, (2) SPORTS 6, (2) GT6, (1) SWEET TR6, 1988 Mazda RX7 Conv., 16FT. Alum Car trailer http://www.proxibid.com/asp/Catalog.asp?aid=27682 375+ Lots - Overwhelming collection of Triumph parts, manuals, books, paraphernalia, signs, bicycle and toys http://www.proxibid.com/asp/Catalog.asp?aid=27668 No financial interest... Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From agraham at execulink.com Fri Apr 16 18:03:58 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 20:03:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear brake cylinder/dust boot. Message-ID: <4BC8FAEE.1020101@execulink.com> Hello List: Just installing new rear brake cylinders on my TR2/3 project and wondering about the placement of the dust boots on the cylinders. Have got the retaining plates and spring plates figured out, but wondering about the order of installing the boot. Do you push the cylinder through the opening in the backing plate, then fit the boot over the brake lever, then add the plates in the correct order? This would hold the square arms of the boot against the backside of the backing plate under the three plates. Not sure if the boot was pushed through the backing plate opening with the cylinder, leaving the "square arms" of the boot on the inside of the backing plate under the cylinder. Hope this posting makes sense! Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 16 18:48:16 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 17:48:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear brake cylinder/dust boot. In-Reply-To: <4BC8FAEE.1020101@execulink.com> References: <4BC8FAEE.1020101@execulink.com> Message-ID: <07eb01caddc7$ab693670$023ba350$@rr.com> Procedure from the Bentley : Mount the wheel cylinder on to the backplate with the neck through the large slot. Replace the distance piece between cylinder neck and backplate, with the open end away from handbrake lever location. The two cranked lips must also be away from the backplate. Insert the spring plate between the distance piece and backplate, also with open end away from handbrake lever location and the two cranked lips away from the backplate. Replace handbrake lever. Locate the retaining plate between the distance piece and spring plate (open end towards the handbrake lever), tap into position until the two cranked tips of the spring plate locate in the retaining plate. Fit the rubber dust cover. Attach the pressure pipe union to the cylinder and connection to the handbrake lever. Replace the shoes, brake drum, and bleed the system. Finally re-fit wheels, -- Randall From thebujas at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 19:05:51 2010 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 20:05:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mark Joslyn's Triumph Collection to be auctioned on April 24 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I see that I've forgotten to include a map link on how to get to the auction site. Cayuga, IN is about 70 miles WNW of Indianapolis, just east of the Illinois-Indiana state line about 12 miles south of I-74. The auction will be held in the 4-H Community Building on the Vermillion County Fairgrounds on the southeast side of Cayuga. watch the word wrap, or use this link: http://tinyurl.com/y6mqwjl The green arrow points to the 4-H Community Building at the fairgrounds. Questions about the auction should be directed to Lenhart Auction & Realty - Cell: (217)497-8644 - Office: (217)662-8644 - Fax: (217)662-6899 That's about all I know... Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 23:58:43 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 23:58:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Door Pulls In-Reply-To: <2978EB5678294213B7937C0A9C8FBEA2@BobPC> References: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC> <2978EB5678294213B7937C0A9C8FBEA2@BobPC> Message-ID: Bob, You have become the "Nelson Reidel" of the TR6. It just continues to amaze me at the spot on tech info you document so professionally. Thank you for taking the time to share, especially for those of us that need pictures AND direction. You'll love the control the handles will give you in parking lot situations. They look great. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Apr 16, 2010, at 2:10 PM, Bob Danielson wrote: > Hi all............... I posted this question about a month ago and > was quickly informed that the door pulls from a TR4 were a perfect > fit. So I figured I should share with you how they look on the > leather panels I made this winter. As always thanks for help. > > A door pull picture is here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanels/DoorPull6.jpg > I did a custom leather door cap and went with pleated leather door > panels. > > My new leather interior is here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanel.htm > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 10:31 PM > To: ; "6 pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: [TR] Door Pulls > >> I'm thinking of doing away with the stock interior door pull for >> the late TR6 >> and try to find a retro-like pull handle. There's a bunch out there >> for MGB, >> Sprite, TR4 etc but I'm hoping for one that would match up with the >> existing >> screw holes that are 4-7/8" center to center. Has anybody done this >> or have a >> part# that would fit? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net From trglory at verizon.net Sat Apr 17 06:24:26 2010 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 08:24:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Speed bleeder Message-ID: <005101cade28$ebc6c190$c35444b0$@net> Does anyone know what sizes are needed for the TR3a? This car is Girling equipped with 10 inch rear drums. I seem to remember that the front calipers are not the same as the rear slave or the clutch slave, but I could be wrong. All help is appreciated. From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Apr 17 08:21:44 2010 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 10:21:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? In-Reply-To: <200015.61324.qm@web51601.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <200015.61324.qm@web51601.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Cosmo, I was planning on just purchasing a set of K&N filters but recently somebody on the list had said that the K&N filters don't work that well in keeping dust out of the engine. It is hard to say what the problem really is since K&N filters require some user maintenance. I wonder if the problem is that the filters weren't serviced correctly and failed or what? They seem very popular. Thanks, Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: Cosmo Kramer To: Dave Connitt Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 10:22 PM Subject: TR air cleaners? Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:13:58 -0400 From: "Dave Connitt" Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? To: Message-ID: <77AF0AF214F44E12BAD97C64003748F3 at DaveLaptop> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Everybody, I remember a thread a few days (weeks?) back about the efficiency of various air filters with K&N not getting an especially good mark. What is the consensus about air filters? I have TR4A IRS with SU's. Months away from needing air filters but just thought I would ask. Thanks, Dave Connitt ------------------------ Hi Dave! I've thought of getting the K&N filters, but decided against that for now. I use the Standard TRIUMPH oval air filters. I then obtained a air filter material from a friend who gave him the material (so i don't know where you can purchase it or even the proper name of the stuff). I then cut it in strips to wrap around the air filter paper. Now when it ges dirty, I just remove them, wash them in soap & water to dry, & install.Because my Garage Queen is dark blue & the material is a light blue, it looks good. I figure if this helps keep the paper on the air filter a little cleaner, then it means that I wouldn't have to replace them as offter. Therefore it will be saving me money & be cheaper than purchasing K&N air filters. -Cosmo Kramer From willgray at vaxxine.com Sat Apr 17 09:22:42 2010 From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett and Carol Gray) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 11:22:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gear Shift Message-ID: The gear shift on my TR3A tends tends to slip out of 3rd gear. Is fixing this going to involve getting into the gearbox or is there something more cosmetic I can do? And while I'm here, thank to all those who responded to my enquiry about installing the disc brake pads. It turned out that I had not pushed the pistons fully back into the calipers. Duh! Dave From dwillner at ptd.net Sat Apr 17 10:04:56 2010 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 12:04:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake/Clutch master cylinder bracket paint color? Message-ID: <343C93CF70D141C7883E0F7E79589B56@valued9cfc0b6f> I'm respraying and tidying up my engine bay a bit as well as redoing my hydraulics and had an "originality" question on whether the bracket that holds the clutch and brake masters should be body color or semi-gloss black. I've seen both. Thanks for the help. Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA Victor Special From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 17 10:22:01 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 09:22:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gear Shift In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <024b01cade4a$1cc37c40$0301a8c0@randall> > The gear shift on my TR3A tends tends to slip out of 3rd gear. Is > fixing this going to involve getting into the gearbox or is there > something more cosmetic I can do? You could try shimming the shift detent spring (which only requires removing the top cover); but most likely you're going to have to get into the box itself and replace whatever is worn out/broken. Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Apr 17 11:08:23 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 10:08:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? In-Reply-To: References: <200015.61324.qm@web51601.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Don''t know who posted that dismissing K&N, but I suspect he/she never had dirt under their fingernails, K&N has long been the ultimate in free-flow filters, and are with certainty more efficient (in every way) than the standard AC filters supplied with the TR3/3A models. I have even replaced the "factory" filters in our TR6 (keeping the original canister) and have no complaints. >Hi Cosmo, >I was planning on just purchasing a set of K&N filters but recently somebody >on the list had said that the K&N filters don't work that well in keeping dust >out of the engine. It is hard to say what the problem really is since K&N >filters require some user maintenance. I wonder if the problem is that the >filters weren't serviced correctly and failed or what? They seem very >popular. >Thanks, >Dave Connitt > -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From trglory at verizon.net Sat Apr 17 11:35:04 2010 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 13:35:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake/Clutch master cylinder bracket paint color? In-Reply-To: <343C93CF70D141C7883E0F7E79589B56@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <343C93CF70D141C7883E0F7E79589B56@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <001901cade54$50eb0880$f2c11980$@net> Dave; I did mine in black. See attached pix (sorry all). Joe Central PA Triumph Club -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 12:05 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Brake/Clutch master cylinder bracket paint color? I'm respraying and tidying up my engine bay a bit as well as redoing my hydraulics and had an "originality" question on whether the bracket that holds the clutch and brake masters should be body color or semi-gloss black. I've seen both. Thanks for the help. Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA Victor Special _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2816 - Release Date: 04/17/10 02:31:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0863m.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0861m.jpg] From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Apr 17 11:52:29 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 12:52:29 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? Message-ID: <16361946.312682.1271526749782.JavaMail.root@vms074.mailsrvcs.net> Trust me, they were serviced correctly and more often that reguired. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Apr 17, 2010, Dave Connitt wrote: Hi Cosmo, I was planning on just purchasing a set of K&N filters but recently somebody on the list had said that the K&N filters don't work that well in keeping dust out of the engine. It is hard to say what the problem really is since K&N filters require some user maintenance. I wonder if the problem is that the filters weren't serviced correctly and failed or what? They seem very popular. Thanks, Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: Cosmo Kramer To: Dave Connitt Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 10:22 PM Subject: TR air cleaners? Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:13:58 -0400 From: "Dave Connitt" Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? To: Message-ID: <77AF0AF214F44E12BAD97C64003748F3 at DaveLaptop> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Everybody, I remember a thread a few days (weeks?) back about the efficiency of various air filters with K&N not getting an especially good mark. What is the consensus about air filters? I have TR4A IRS with SU's. Months away from needing air filters but just thought I would ask. Thanks, Dave Connitt ------------------------ Hi Dave! I've thought of getting the K&N filters, but decided against that for now. I use the Standard TRIUMPH oval air filters. I then obtained a air filter material from a friend who gave him the material (so i don't know where you can purchase it or even the proper name of the stuff). I then cut it in strips to wrap around the air filter paper. Now when it ges dirty, I just remove them, wash them in soap & water to dry, & install.Because my Garage Queen is dark blue & the material is a light blue, it looks good. I figure if this helps keep the paper on the air filter a little cleaner, then it means that I wouldn't have to replace them as offter. Therefore it will be saving me money & be cheaper than purchasing K&N air filters. -Cosmo Kramer _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Apr 17 12:41:34 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 12:41:34 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR_air_cleaners=3F?= Message-ID: <20100417184134.25FA818764B@autox.team.net> Those baja racers are such idiots to believe k/n advertising. Not to mention those nascar morons... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net Date: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 13:52 Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? To: Cc: , Trust me, they were serviced correctly and more often that reguired. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Apr 17, 2010, Dave Connitt wrote: Hi Cosmo, I was planning on just purchasing a set of K&N filters but recently somebody on the list had said that the K&N filters don't work that well in keeping dust out of the engine. It is hard to say what the problem really is since K&N filters require some user maintenance. I wonder if the problem is that the filters weren't serviced correctly and failed or what? They seem very popular. Thanks, Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: Cosmo Kramer To: Dave Connitt Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 10:22 PM Subject: TR air cleaners? Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:13:58 -0400 From: "Dave Connitt" Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? To: Message-ID: <77AF0AF214F44E12BAD97C64003748F3 at DaveLaptop> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Everybody, I remember a thread a few days (weeks?) back about the efficiency of various air filters with K&N not getting an especially good mark. What is the consensus about air filters? I have TR4A IRS with SU's. Months away from needing air filters but just thought I would ask. Thanks, Dave Connitt ------------------------ Hi Dave! I've thought of getting the K&N filters, but decided against that for now. I use the Standard TRIUMPH oval air filters. I then obtained a air filter material from a friend who gave him the material (so i don't know where you can purchase it or even the proper name of the stuff). I then cut it in strips to wrap around the air filter paper. Now when it ges dirty, I just remove them, wash them in soap & water to dry, & install.Because my Garage Queen is dark blue & the material is a light blue, it looks good. I figure if this helps keep the paper on the air filter a little cleaner, then it means that I wouldn't have to replace them as offter. Therefore it will be saving me money & be cheaper than purchasing K&N air filters. -Cosmo Kramer _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Apr 17 13:41:11 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 14:41:11 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Bonnet Prop Rod Message-ID: <1441461364.2439025.1271533271437.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net> Could someone please measure the bonnet prop rod for a TR3. I have two sitting here - not the same length. (no it is not the trunk rod). Could be from some other car - although I can't imagine what. Thanks Carl From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Apr 17 13:46:54 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 12:46:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? In-Reply-To: <20100417184134.25FA818764B@autox.team.net> References: <20100417184134.25FA818764B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4BCA102E.3050406@gmail.com> > Those baja racers are such idiots to believe k/n advertising. Not to mention those nascar morons... > > Not really. They are after maximum airflow and tear the engine down after the race. I might even use them if I had a sponsor for parts and a pro mechanic to tear down and rebuild my engine every time I used the car. I'm using an itg filter because it is the only think that fits over the DCOEs without having to carve up my inner wing panel. I think the itg is better than K&N but it is not as good as a paper element or a good oil bath filter. Teriann From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Apr 17 13:49:54 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 14:49:54 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Brake/Clutch master cylinder bracket paint color? Message-ID: <190857859.2439198.1271533794780.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net> TRA judging guide doesn't specify.B FWIW - I did mine in black. On Apr 17, 2010, davewillner wrote: I'm respraying and tidying up my engine bay a bit as well as redoing my hydraulics and had an "originality" question on whether the bracket that holds the clutch and brake masters should be body color or semi-gloss black. I've seen both. Thanks for the help. Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA Victor Special _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From fishplate at charter.net Sat Apr 17 13:58:10 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 15:58:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? In-Reply-To: <20100417184134.25FA818764B@autox.team.net> References: <20100417184134.25FA818764B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <6jxB1e0035K6Zm805jxBdY@charter.net> At 02:41 PM 4/17/2010, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: >Those baja racers are such idiots to believe k/n advertising. Not >to mention those nascar morons... I don't wish to rebuild my engine as often as those fellows do... I don't know exactly what the truth is re K&N filters, but I do know that given the same filter area, a filter that screens out smaller particles will be more resistant to airflow. So it makes perfect sense for someone who isn't too concerned about driving more than a couple thousand miles to be more tolerant of particles entering the engine, if their goal is to move air through as quickly as possible. From marc.nederkoorn at home.nl Sat Apr 17 14:15:18 2010 From: marc.nederkoorn at home.nl (Marc Nederkoorn) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 22:15:18 +0200 Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg Message-ID: Listers, I have a statement to prove yet can not find again a picture of proof of the famous John Macartney STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg that keeps the choke out while warming up. The pic's of the Trans-America drive have gone walkabout; anyone have a picture of the peg for me? Regards, Marc From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 17 14:27:08 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 15:27:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? In-Reply-To: References: <200015.61324.qm@web51601.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1A763CFB2A634A8A9E9A312534898C48@ranteer.local> K&Ns in everything. never heard anything negative before this -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bill" Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 12:08 PM To: "Dave Connitt" ; "Cosmo Kramer" Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] TR air cleaners? > Don''t know who posted that dismissing K&N, but I suspect he/she never had > dirt under their fingernails, K&N has long been the ultimate in free-flow > filters, and are with certainty more efficient (in every way) than the > standard AC filters supplied with the TR3/3A models. I have even replaced > the "factory" filters in our TR6 (keeping the original canister) and have > no complaints. > >>Hi Cosmo, >>I was planning on just purchasing a set of K&N filters but recently >>somebody >>on the list had said that the K&N filters don't work that well in keeping >>dust >>out of the engine. It is hard to say what the problem really is since K&N >>filters require some user maintenance. I wonder if the problem is that the >>filters weren't serviced correctly and failed or what? They seem very >>popular. >>Thanks, >>Dave Connitt From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Apr 17 14:59:32 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 14:59:32 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR_air_cleaners=3F?= Message-ID: <20100417205932.A246C18764B@autox.team.net> All I can say is that if you want clean air you have a couple of choices: you can use an oiled batting filter like the k/n or a large oil bath filter. Paper filters allow particles to penetrate in greater quantity than k/n. Real studies bear this out. On the other hand, we have subjective opinions. I encourage everyone to check out the various studies and make up your mind based on impartial facts. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jeff Scarbrough" Date: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 15:58 Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? To: Cc: At 02:41 PM 4/17/2010, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: >Those baja racers are such idiots to believe k/n advertising. Not >to mention those nascar morons... I don't wish to rebuild my engine as often as those fellows do... I don't know exactly what the truth is re K&N filters, but I do know that given the same filter area, a filter that screens out smaller particles will be more resistant to airflow. So it makes perfect sense for someone who isn't too concerned about driving more than a couple thousand miles to be more tolerant of particles entering the engine, if their goal is to move air through as quickly as possible. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 17 16:03:29 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 15:03:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? In-Reply-To: References: <200015.61324.qm@web51601.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <030601cade79$d06c5490$0301a8c0@randall> > Don''t know who posted that dismissing K&N, but I suspect he/she > never had dirt under their fingernails, That would be me, Bill. And you're right, I've been trying to remember to wear gloves, because it's so dang hard to get my hands clean if I don't. > K&N has long been the ultimate in free-flow filters, Right. I've no argument with how freely they flow air; only how well they don't flow dirt. Every real-world test I have ever seen has shown the K&N to be dead last in how much dirt it keeps out of the engine. > and are with certainty more efficient (in every way) Engineer's motto : A test is worth a thousand theories. IOW, show me the test and I might believe you. Feel free to run your own, or fire up Google and find a few on the 'net. Eg, http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm Here's one that even shows the K&N clogs more quickly, and becomes MORE restrictive than a stock filter! http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html So, IMO, which filter is best depends on your goals. If you only want to wow them at the race track and don't mind new rings every race, then you probably don't want a filter at all. A good velocity stack is going to flow better than the K&N. But if you want your engine to last 100,000 miles or more, you are probably better off with a 'stock' type paper element filter than a "free flow" filter. My .02, YMMV, NFI, offer void where not prohibited. Randall From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Apr 17 17:10:32 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:10:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCAC9A5085727F-36C-13DE@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com> I .have one in it's original packaging...never used and not sure where it is at -----Original Message----- From: Marc Nederkoorn To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 3:15 pm Subject: [6pack] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg Listers, I have a statement to prove yet can not find again a picture of proof of the famous John Macartney STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg that keeps the choke out while warming up. The pic's of the Trans-America drive have gone walkabout; anyone have a picture of the peg for me? Regards, Marc _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com From fishplate at charter.net Sat Apr 17 17:31:54 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:31:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trunnion Bolt Torque? Message-ID: <6nWj1e0035K6Zm805nWj7c@charter.net> Rebuilding the front end on my '75 TR6...Bentley/BL manual is strangely silent on the question... Is there a torque spec for the trunnion bolt? Something other than "two grunts and an elbow pop"? TIA, Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Apr 17 17:30:18 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:30:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] POR-15 - UV Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313351F@CMS01.winhosting.local> I know from POR's documentation that POR-15 is succeptible to discoloration from excessive UV exposure. The question is how much? Over the past year or so, I have been slowly working my way through the engine bay (painted black these many years) and scrubbing down surfaces and fittings. I've been applying POR with very pleasing results. However, I have not been top-coating. The part I did last year still seems perfectly fine. The car is indoors most times. Is it a very gradual greying, or is the engine bay protected enough that I can leave it bare POR coated as it is? I quite like the present surface and semi-mid gloss that comes with the material. Just don't feel like having it suddenly go all grey on me. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6. From wbeech at flash.net Sat Apr 17 18:15:57 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 18:15:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Bonnet Prop Rod In-Reply-To: <1441461364.2439025.1271533271437.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1441461364.2439025.1271533271437.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: 32.25" overall length on my '58. B Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (rolling restoration) www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 1:41 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Bonnet Prop Rod Could someone please measure the bonnet prop rod for a TR3. I have two sitting here - not the same length. (no it is not the trunk rod). Could be from some other car - although I can't imagine what. Thanks Carl _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Sat Apr 17 18:15:57 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 18:15:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brake/Clutch master cylinder bracket paint color? In-Reply-To: <190857859.2439198.1271533794780.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net> References: <190857859.2439198.1271533794780.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <3920359AF2304A21BED7DC763F15BD8F@bboffice> I bead blasted mine and sprayed with a clear finish. B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 1:50 PM To: dwillner at ptd.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Brake/Clutch master cylinder bracket paint color? TRA judging guide doesn't specify.B FWIW - I did mine in black. On Apr 17, 2010, davewillner wrote: I'm respraying and tidying up my engine bay a bit as well as redoing my hydraulics and had an "originality" question on whether the bracket that holds the clutch and brake masters should be body color or semi-gloss black. I've seen both. Thanks for the help. Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA Victor Special _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Apr 17 18:19:27 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 20:19:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] POR question - re-transmit Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3133520@CMS01.winhosting.local> I know from POR's documentation that POR-15 is succeptible to discoloration from excessive UV exposure. The question is how much? Over the past year or so, I have been slowly working my way through the engine bay (painted black these many years) and scrubbing down surfaces and fittings. I've been applying POR with very pleasing results. However, I have not been top-coating. The part I did last year still seems perfectly fine. The car is indoors most times. Is it a very gradual greying, or is the engine bay protected enough that I can leave it bare POR coated as it is? I quite like the present surface and semi-mid gloss that comes with the material. Just don't feel like having it suddenly go all grey on me. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6. From amfoto1 at aol.com Sat Apr 17 19:43:54 2010 From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:43:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A popping out of 3rd gear. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCACAFBCD22BE0-1068-DA45@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> Hi Dave, You might try different gear oil in the box. ISTR a lot of folks who put 20W50 motor oil in the box had problems with it popping out of 3rd gear. Especially synthetic motor oil.... Too slippery for the gearbox. And, if using motor oil instead of gear oil, should only use non-detergent "racing" motor oil. Unfortunately it might as easily need some work and a proper rebuild. I hope it's just a matter of using different oil. Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT17602L http://www.triumphowners.com/640 The gear shift on my TR3A tends tends to slip out of 3rd gear. Is fixing this going to involve getting into the gearbox or is there something more cosmetic I can do? And while I'm here, thank to all those who responded to my enquiry about installing the disc brake pads. It turned out that I had not pushed the pistons fully back into the calipers. Duh! Dave From wmpless at iprimus.ca Sat Apr 17 19:54:50 2010 From: wmpless at iprimus.ca (wmpless at iprimus.ca) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:54:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3-4 rear crank seal conversion kit Message-ID: Hi, a fellow in Germany is has come up with another solution. For details see http://www.tr4-racing.de/download/splitseal.pdf will it work?? Opinions appreciated. Wiard From amfoto1 at aol.com Sat Apr 17 19:56:33 2010 From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:56:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] POR15 and UV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCACB181CD12AC-1068-DB60@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> Hi Mark, I imagine it makes a difference what color you use, and how much it actually gets exposed to UV. I used some silver metallic POR15 inside and on some relatively hidden areas of a set of chrome motorcycle fenders. The rest of the fenders were chrome and polished back up. Some of the hidden areas and the underside had some small rust pits, hence the POR15. Over time the areas that got the most sunlight on them got tinted a bit golden/yellow. Meanwhile, my car frame has been painted with black POR15 for years and shows no discoloration. It could just be that it's not possible to see on the black. But also the frame under the car only ever gets indirect sunlight. So, your engine compartment is unlikely to see very much sunlight, unless you are constantly showing off the engine and displaying the car. So, I wouldn't worry too much. I probably won't use POR15 again. It's impossible to spray for a nice finish and next to impossible to remove, or to feather sand and retouch if it's ever needed. (Note: a welding torch will burn it off eventually, but it holds up surprisingly well!) I am not sure what might be expected to stick on it as a top coat, either. Plus if you get the stuff on your skin, you basically have to wait until it wears off. Cheers! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT17602L http://www.triumphowners.com/640 I know from POR's documentation that POR-15 is succeptible to discoloration from excessive UV exposure. The question is how much? Over the past year or so, I have been slowly working my way through the engine bay (painted black these many years) and scrubbing down surfaces and fittings. I've been applying POR with very pleasing results. However, I have not been top-coating. The part I did last year still seems perfectly fine. The car is indoors most times. Is it a very gradual greying, or is the engine bay protected enough that I can leave it bare POR coated as it is? I quite like the present surface and semi-mid gloss that comes with the material. Just don't feel like having it suddenly go all grey on me. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6. From amfoto1 at aol.com Sat Apr 17 20:10:03 2010 From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 22:10:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR air filters (K&N) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCACB3646F06CD-1068-DC9D@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> I've been using K&N or other, very similar filters in everything for decades. The only problem I've ever heard is that people tend to over-oil K&N and that can make them less efficient passing air, in which case your fuel mixture and gas mileage might suffer. I had this prob. with a cheap copy of a K&N on a motorcycle once... Replaced it with a K&N, oiled it correctly and it worked great. If you ever look closely at K&N, it would be pretty hard to imagine even the tiniest dust particle getting through the cloth and on into the engine. I would think most paper filters are much more porous and allow larger particles through. It's a pain cleaning K&N (or other similar). The Ex used to get peeved at me for washing them in the kitchen sink. I always buy an extra filter (or set), so that I can have them clean, oiled and ready to go. Not waiting around for them to dry after washing, and then for the oil to penetrate all the nooks and crannies. If needed, K&N also offers "pre-filters" to fit over most sizes of the basic filter, sort of like a sock, for extreme conditions. I've never used them on anything. Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT17602L http://www.triumphowners.com/640 From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sat Apr 17 20:39:10 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:39:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR air cleaners? In-Reply-To: <030601cade79$d06c5490$0301a8c0@randall> References: <200015.61324.qm@web51601.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <030601cade79$d06c5490$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <846008.97063.qm@web59704.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> This is good news to hear regarding paper elements....I was just about ready to trash the still-in-the-box air filter elements I purchased from Moss (made in India)....Thanks Randall for the Links. Pat TR4A '67 ________________________________ From: Randall Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, April 17, 2010 3:03:29 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR air cleaners? > Don''t know who posted that dismissing K&N, but I suspect he/she > never had dirt under their fingernails, That would be me, Bill. And you're right, I've been trying to remember to wear gloves, because it's so dang hard to get my hands clean if I don't. > K&N has long been the ultimate in free-flow filters, Right. I've no argument with how freely they flow air; only how well they don't flow dirt. Every real-world test I have ever seen has shown the K&N to be dead last in how much dirt it keeps out of the engine. > and are with certainty more efficient (in every way) Engineer's motto : A test is worth a thousand theories. IOW, show me the test and I might believe you. Feel free to run your own, or fire up Google and find a few on the 'net. Eg, http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm Here's one that even shows the K&N clogs more quickly, and becomes MORE restrictive than a stock filter! http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html So, IMO, which filter is best depends on your goals. If you only want to wow them at the race track and don't mind new rings every race, then you probably don't want a filter at all. A good velocity stack is going to flow better than the K&N. But if you want your engine to last 100,000 miles or more, you are probably better off with a 'stock' type paper element filter than a "free flow" filter. My .02, YMMV, NFI, offer void where not prohibited. Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 17 21:47:20 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 20:47:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trunnion Bolt Torque? In-Reply-To: <6nWj1e0035K6Zm805nWj7c@charter.net> References: <6nWj1e0035K6Zm805nWj7c@charter.net> Message-ID: <038a01cadea9$d95adb50$0301a8c0@randall> > Is there a torque spec for the trunnion bolt? Something other than > "two grunts and an elbow pop"? Perhaps I'm confused. Isn't that what they are talking about in step 12 of 60.15.03, when it says "tightened to a torque of 50 - 65 lbf ft" ? Randall From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Sun Apr 18 02:44:44 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 01:44:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <242408.15452.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Marc Somewhere in my computer, I have the backing card for said essential tool - but can't find it. I do have a revised version of it when Stan's Parts and Accessories was acquired for a very inconsequential sum by the Sharp Intake of Breath group of companies, who sold it alongside their wax polish saving kit and greasy finger nail cleaning tool. But all is not lost. You can use any clothes peg with a piece of string threaded through the central spring to hang from the choke knob and, unlike the cars themselves, you can operate the peg left and right handed. Good luck on your cold cold-start days Jonmac ________________________________ From: Marc Nederkoorn To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 17 April, 2010 21:15:18 Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg Listers, I have a statement to prove yet can not find again a picture of proof of the famous John Macartney STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg that keeps the choke out while warming up. The pic's of the Trans-America drive have gone walkabout; anyone have a picture of the peg for me? Regards, Marc _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sun Apr 18 05:13:29 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 07:13:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] POR15 and UV In-Reply-To: <8CCACB181CD12AC-1068-DB60@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> References: , <8CCACB181CD12AC-1068-DB60@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3133525@CMS01.winhosting.local> Thanks for the feedback Alan. I've had a bunch of off-list replies all saying something similar; i.e. chassis work seems be be enough in the shade that no damage occurs. I agree that the stuff sure is tough. I'm hand-brushing in the engine bay, so it is smooth enough for me. That being said, the issues of getting paint to stick afterward make we wonder about putting on some regular paint afterward just to have a stickable surface to work with in the future. Cheers, Mark ________________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Myers [amfoto1 at aol.com] Sent: April 17, 2010 9:56 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] POR15 and UV Hi Mark, I imagine it makes a difference what color you use, and how much it actually gets exposed to UV. I used some silver metallic POR15 inside and on some relatively hidden areas of a set of chrome motorcycle fenders. The rest of the fenders were chrome and polished back up. Some of the hidden areas and the underside had some small rust pits, hence the POR15. Over time the areas that got the most sunlight on them got tinted a bit golden/yellow. Meanwhile, my car frame has been painted with black POR15 for years and shows no discoloration. It could just be that it's not possible to see on the black. But also the frame under the car only ever gets indirect sunlight. So, your engine compartment is unlikely to see very much sunlight, unless you are constantly showing off the engine and displaying the car. So, I wouldn't worry too much. I probably won't use POR15 again. It's impossible to spray for a nice finish and next to impossible to remove, or to feather sand and retouch if it's ever needed. (Note: a welding torch will burn it off eventually, but it holds up surprisingly well!) I am not sure what might be expected to stick on it as a top coat, either. Plus if you get the stuff on your skin, you basically have to wait until it wears off. Cheers! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT17602L http://www.triumphowners.com/640 I know from POR's documentation that POR-15 is succeptible to discoloration from excessive UV exposure. The question is how much? Over the past year or so, I have been slowly working my way through the engine bay (painted black these many years) and scrubbing down surfaces and fittings. I've been applying POR with very pleasing results. However, I have not been top-coating. The part I did last year still seems perfectly fine. The car is indoors most times. Is it a very gradual greying, or is the engine bay protected enough that I can leave it bare POR coated as it is? I quite like the present surface and semi-mid gloss that comes with the material. Just don't feel like having it suddenly go all grey on me. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6. From marc.nederkoorn at home.nl Sun Apr 18 06:01:32 2010 From: marc.nederkoorn at home.nl (Marc Nederkoorn) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:01:32 +0200 Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg In-Reply-To: <242408.15452.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <242408.15452.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <71A8EDD5A2564110B0B575FFCF34DE8B@corp.capgemini.com> John, n1974TR4, listers, After some serious digging in the Internet I found an application. Albeit Wolseley, it did prove the point ;-) http://se.lmer.se/cars/wolseley/wolseleypictures/lowtech2.jpg Thanks for your replies and help, Marc ----- Original Message ----- From: John Macartney To: Marc Nederkoorn ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 10:44 AM Subject: Re: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg Marc Somewhere in my computer, I have the backing card for said essential tool - but can't find it. I do have a revised version of it when Stan's Parts and Accessories was acquired for a very inconsequential sum by the Sharp Intake of Breath group of companies, who sold it alongside their wax polish saving kit and greasy finger nail cleaning tool. But all is not lost. You can use any clothes peg with a piece of string threaded through the central spring to hang from the choke knob and, unlike the cars themselves, you can operate the peg left and right handed. Good luck on your cold cold-start days Jonmac From: Marc Nederkoorn To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 17 April, 2010 21:15:18 Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg Listers, I have a statement to prove yet can not find again a picture of proof of the famous John Macartney STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg that keeps the choke out while warming up. The pic's of the Trans-America drive have gone walkabout; anyone have a picture of the peg for me? Regards, Marc _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Apr 18 06:52:28 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 08:52:28 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg Message-ID: <2f8e4.194fb7a0.38fc5a8c@cs.com> In a message dated 4/17/2010 6:57:08 PM Central Daylight Time, n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > I .have one in it's original packaging...never used and not sure where it > is > at > Me too but I keep mine in my bedside table (don't ask - It collects a lot of miscellany) I have scanned both sides of the instruction sheet and the peg (for the sake of anal-retentivness) and sent them on to Marc. Dave From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sun Apr 18 07:01:23 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 09:01:23 EDT Subject: [TR] TR air filters (K&N) Message-ID: <30b59.4fa01fd.38fc5ca3@aol.com> Hi all; I read the results of some research a while ago on air filters (not necessarily TR-specific). Perhaps it was even on this list, I am not sure. Anyway, the research results concluded that one cheap, easy and highly effective filtering method is to fit a ram pipe with metal kitchen strainer material over it (like a tea strainer), then a piece of shop-vac foam over that, with both the strainer material and the foam secured with a jubilee clip. The steel strainer material stops the foam from being sucked down the ram pipe. I'm using this on my TR now. I decided to richen the mixture a little due to the increased air flow. I'm not in a position to tell you if this filtering method is a success or not; I was just following the recommendation from this research. I'll see if I can find where I might have it; can't remember the source. Tim Tim Dyer, Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, ON K0A 1B0 Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association for horticulture professionals), the Canadian Nursery and Landscape Association, the Ottawa Botanical Garden Society, the Carleton Place Horticultural Society and the Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From rawanderer at comcast.net Sun Apr 18 07:03:51 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 09:03:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Cushion Length Message-ID: <20100418130229.8FE8A187674@autox.team.net> Would someone who has Miata seats please measure the length of the seat cushion from the seatback (squab) to the front of the cushion and let me know what it is. I have the Moss Classic TR6 seats in my Six, which are minutely longer (17-1/2") than the standard seats, but I am looking for something that is longer than that. TIA. Regards, BobW Montgomeryville, Pa Member, Delaware Valley Triumphs (DVT) 1974 TR6 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From fishplate at charter.net Sun Apr 18 08:09:38 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 10:09:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trunnion Bolt Torque? In-Reply-To: <038a01cadea9$d95adb50$0301a8c0@randall> References: <6nWj1e0035K6Zm805nWj7c@charter.net> <038a01cadea9$d95adb50$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <72DN1e00C5K6Zm8052DQhg@charter.net> At 11:47 PM 4/17/2010, Randall wrote: > > Is there a torque spec for the trunnion bolt? Something other than > > "two grunts and an elbow pop"? > >Perhaps I'm confused. Isn't that what they are talking about in step 12 of >60.15.03, when it says "tightened to a torque of 50 - 65 lbf ft" ? Nope, Randall, it's me. I read all the sections about removing vertical link, wishbone, spring, etc., all of which talk about removing and replacing this bolt. Missed reading the one about the trunnion. I wonder why it's not in the torque section at the front of the book? Thanks! Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From N197TR4 at cs.com Sun Apr 18 08:54:52 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 10:54:52 EDT Subject: [TR] New Crank Seal from Germany Message-ID: <1c3fd.73f02e6b.38fc773c@cs.com> Hi, a fellow in Germany is has come up with another solution. For details see http://www.tr4-racing.de/download/splitseal.pdf will it work?? Opinions appreciated. Wiard ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------- Wiard, Boy! You sure picked up quickly on this product announcement! Christian's crank seal design process has been very thoughtful. There is no reason why it should not work. It also avoids the need/cost to grind the crankshaft. Christian has invested in tooling to produce this seal and the first production run is complete. Two of the Viton Seals are coming to the U.S. for testing in TR3/TR4 race engines. Christian expects success as the scroll seal is followed by the Viton Lip Seal. Redundant Engineering, if you will. The current plan is to produce a low cost alignment tool and include it in the Installation Kit. This tool design has been completed and only needs to be released to production here in Iowa. The alignment tool will be offered for sale on it's own, so everyone can have one in their tool box....at a low cost. It can be used for both the OEM seal and the Combination Scroll/Viton Seal. Joe A For a number of my own reasons, I have always used the OEM crank seal. I am looking forward to using Christian's new seals. Care in installation remains paramont, but the Viton Seal should be more forgiving.....and should catch that last frustrating drip. Proper ventilation on race engines will remain important, in any case. (Key Words: Crank Case Evacuation) From blanoway at shaw.ca Sun Apr 18 08:59:02 2010 From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 09:59:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 door handle and window winder pin 'trick of the trade' Message-ID: I just spent more than a few minutes admiring Bob Danielsons TR6 leather interior on his website. I too would like to thank Bob for the effort he puts into his projects and web site  this has proved invaluable on many occasions for me. Bobs new leather interior is absolutely gorgeous! I would like to add our local clubs trick for installing those nasty door handle and window crank pins in a TR6. Its actually very simple  you can literally install a handle pin in a minute or two at most - without cursing - with this technique. Heres the trick. Find an older style wire coat hanger  you need one thats made of thicker gauge wire. Cut the wire hanger into a one foot long or so straight length. Put the door handle or window crank in your hand; insert the coat hanger into the pin holes on the reverse side of the handle so that the cut end lines up with the outer diameter of the mounting boss. Take a pair of side cutters and cut a notch in the wire hanger so you have a notch on the other side of the mounting boss. The idea here is once the handle is installed; you insert the longer wire hanger through the backside of the handle into the mounting hole and then simply bend the coat hanger back and forth to break the wire off at the notch. This will result in a pin of the exact length residing correctly in the handle assembly, locking it in place. A bit of a caution here, most of the newer wire hangers are of a thinner gauge so youll have to scrounge around your closets for a thicker gauge hanger thats close to the diameter of the original locking pin. This trick may be well known elsewhere, but Id like to give our local LBC restoration wizard; Ted Mooby, credit for introducing the trick to me. Cheers, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg From joemato at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 18 09:47:37 2010 From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 08:47:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] POR Discoloration Message-ID: <693978.78885.qm@web83502.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> If you leave it exposed to the sun for extensive periods, it will grey like parts of the chassis I painted with it. No sun exposeure, no problem.. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 18 11:13:07 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 13:13:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Cushion Length In-Reply-To: <20100418130229.8FE8A187674@autox.team.net> References: <20100418130229.8FE8A187674@autox.team.net> Message-ID: >From seatback to front edge of cushion is 19-1/5 to 20". I installed mine last fall (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm) and love them. Very comfortable, better support and great headrest speakers. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Wanderer" Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:03 AM To: Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Cushion Length > Would someone who has Miata seats please measure the length of the seat > cushion from the seatback (squab) to the front of the cushion and let me > know what it is. I have the Moss Classic TR6 seats in my Six, which are > minutely longer (17-1/2") than the standard seats, but I am looking for > something that is longer than that. > > TIA. > > Regards, > BobW > Montgomeryville, Pa > Member, Delaware Valley Triumphs (DVT) > 1974 TR6 > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had > a name of winmail.dat] > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 18 11:19:56 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 13:19:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 door handle and window winder pin 'trick of the trade' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <80F6F8F1F1A543D0BEB694B0F8794784@BobPC> TR6 door handle and window winder pin 'trick of the trade'Hi Brian.... as noted the key is finding the heavier gauge hangers so as an alternative I found that a 16d galvanized finishing nail is a perfect fit. I used a 3" one and did the scouring technique you described to make it easy to snap off. Thanks for the compliments on my leather sewing skills. Next up is a leather covered center console that should be done this week. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From: Brian Lanoway Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 10:59 AM To: Triumphs Digest Cc: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Subject: TR6 door handle and window winder pin 'trick of the trade' I just spent more than a few minutes admiring Bob Danielson's TR6 leather interior on his website. I too would like to thank Bob for the effort he puts into his projects and web site - this has proved invaluable on many occasions for me. Bob's new leather interior is absolutely gorgeous! I would like to add our local club's trick for installing those nasty door handle and window crank pins in a TR6. It's actually very simple - you can literally install a handle pin in a minute or two at most - without cursing - with this technique. Here's the trick. Find an older style wire coat hanger - you need one that's made of thicker gauge wire. Cut the wire hanger into a one foot long or so straight length. Put the door handle or window crank in your hand; insert the coat hanger into the pin holes on the reverse side of the handle so that the cut end lines up with the outer diameter of the mounting boss. Take a pair of side cutters and cut a notch in the wire hanger so you have a notch on the other side of the mounting boss. The idea here is once the handle is installed; you insert the longer wire hanger through the backside of the handle into the mounting hole and then simply bend the coat hanger back and forth to break the wire off at the notch. This will result in a pin of the exact length residing correctly in the handle assembly, locking it in place. A bit of a caution here, most of the newer wire hangers are of a thinner gauge so you'll have to scrounge around your closets for a thicker gauge hanger that's close to the diameter of the original locking pin. This trick may be well known elsewhere, but I'd like to give our local LBC restoration wizard; Ted Mooby, credit for introducing the trick to me. Cheers, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg From wbeech at flash.net Sun Apr 18 13:17:27 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 13:17:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg In-Reply-To: <242408.15452.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <242408.15452.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My TR3 has little catch that you activate by a quarter turn of the knob. Is this an aftermarket feature? Bill Mobile Bill On Apr 18, 2010, at 2:44 AM, John Macartney wrote: > Marc > > Somewhere in my computer, I have the backing card for said essential > tool - but can't find it. I do have a revised version of it when > Stan's Parts > and Accessories was acquired for a very inconsequential sum by the > Sharp > Intake of Breath group of companies, who sold it alongside their wax > polish > saving kit and greasy finger nail cleaning tool. > But all is not lost. You can > use any clothes peg with a piece of string threaded through the > central spring > to hang from the choke knob and, unlike the cars themselves, you can > operate > the peg left and right handed. > Good luck on your cold cold-start days > > Jonmac > ________________________________ > From: Marc Nederkoorn > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, 17 April, 2010 21:15:18 > Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool > aka cloth peg > > Listers, > > I have a statement to prove yet can not find again a > picture of proof of the famous John Macartney > STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka > cloth peg that keeps the choke out while warming up. > > The pic's of the > Trans-America drive have gone walkabout; anyone have a picture of > the peg for > me? > > Regards, > Marc > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested > annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Apr 18 13:38:40 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:38:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 door handle and window winder pin 'trick of the trade' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Brian Lanoway (blanoway at shaw.ca) said: installing those nasty door handle and window crank pins in a TR Door handles and window cranks on a TR?!? Must be some new fangled thing! %^) Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From jmwagner at greenheart.com Sun Apr 18 13:54:11 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 12:54:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] The Red Car Message-ID: <4BCB6363.8080305@greenheart.com> Many years ago..... someone on this list reminisced about the book "The Red Car"... and I seem to recall that it had a part in getting him involved in the car hobby, etc. And he was looking for a copy. Every time I passed by children's books at swap meets and used book stores, etc., I kept my eye out for that book! Honestly, it became a quest for a while there and really never left my noggin! Well, I just thought to Google the darn thing today and see if that would turn it up and I was curious to see what has eluded me... It turns out... it's very much available, both as used original editions and reprints! It does look like a book that would be good for Triumph owner's kids and grand kids.... so I thought I'd put closure on this quest by posting this! Cheers. --Justin http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?an=Don+Stanford&sts=t&tn=The+Red+Car&x=57&y=23&cm_ven=blog&cm_cat=blog&cm_pla=link&cm_ite=search From spook01 at comcast.net Sun Apr 18 14:27:39 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:27:39 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?The_Red_Car?= Message-ID: <20100418202739.2E66A187671@autox.team.net> Really? A book about a mg tc? Who have thought?? ;-) Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" Date: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 15:54 Subject: [TR] The Red Car To: "Triumphs" Many years ago..... someone on this list reminisced about the book "The Red Car"... and I seem to recall that it had a part in getting him involved in the car hobby, etc. And he was looking for a copy. Every time I passed by children's books at swap meets and used book stores, etc., I kept my eye out for that book! Honestly, it became a quest for a while there and really never left my noggin! Well, I just thought to Google the darn thing today and see if that would turn it up and I was curious to see what has eluded me... It turns out... it's very much available, both as used original editions and reprints! It does look like a book that would be good for Triumph owner's kids and grand kids.... so I thought I'd put closure on this quest by posting this! Cheers. --Justin http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?an=Don+Stanford&sts=t&tn=The+Red+Car&x=57&y=23&cm_ven=blog&cm_cat=blog&cm_pla=link&cm_ite=search _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From jmwagner at greenheart.com Sun Apr 18 14:36:41 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 13:36:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] The Red Car In-Reply-To: <20100418202849.4BA943C8EB@mx6.pacifier.net> References: <20100418202849.4BA943C8EB@mx6.pacifier.net> Message-ID: <4BCB6D59.1030606@greenheart.com> Here's a good link that provides a synapse, etc. --Justin http://speedreaders.info/blog/index.php?blog=2&p=25&more=1&c=1&tb=1&pb=1 spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > Really? A book about a mg tc? Who have thought?? > ;-) From cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca Sun Apr 18 15:57:49 2010 From: cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca (Cameron Joyce) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 17:57:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A to 4A Suspension conversion Message-ID: Hello list - I'm in the process of re-assembling the 3A's front suspension using 4A trunnions and upper A arms, and the polyurethane bushing kit. I've read that the orientation of the upper fulcrum pin changed in 1962 with the change to the 3 degree trunnion, but I'm not clear which orientation I should use for the upper fulcrum pin - curve to the back (towards the engine) as it originally was on my car, or curve towards the tire as it would be on a later 4A. (If the latter, is there enough clearance for the shock mounting rubber/washer?) Also looking a BTDT website if anyone has posted a play by play of their front suspension reassembly? Cameron Joyce '59 TR3A From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Sun Apr 18 16:30:44 2010 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 22:30:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] The Red Car Message-ID: I think it was me who first brought up the Red Car. I got a copy form the Scholastic Book Club when I was about 12 or 13. It really excited me to get an English Sports Car. At that time they were not only incredibly exotic, but also relatively inexpensive. I never did get that Red Car. My father owned an auto repair shop in Boston and the guy who ran the welding shop behind the gas station, Reid's Welding, was a stock car racer when stock cars really were, well, stock cars. All of the racers built tuned and repaired the cars they raced at Westwood Speedway on the weekends. Much to the dismay of my father I loved hanging around those guys. They would let me take the spark plugs out of the engines and hold the stupid end of the wrenches when they were disassembling their cars. In that respect I felt I was living the "Red Car" I still have a copy of the book and reread it right after I recommended it to the list. It was not as vivid as it was when I first read it as a kid and a bit daded l, but as I reread it, I remembered the passages that made me want more than anything to really get involved with cars and some of the memorable times with the guys at Reid's that I had forgotten. Over the intervening 50 years I've had a Corvettes, motorcycles, four wheelers, and sports cars, but none of them quite met the standard in my mind of the "Red Car" I never got. I, again, highly recommend the book for your children and grandchildren. Thanks Justin. Bob '72 TR6 (red) _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 From popnglo at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 17:13:27 2010 From: popnglo at gmail.com (popnglo at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 23:13:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Thrust washer thickness Message-ID: <000e0cd721f8ecaada04848afd1a@google.com> Does anyone know the nominal thickness of the crankshaft thrush washer? I removed both sides, and they measured ~0.086" each. The end float was 0.012". I plan on replacing with an oversized (0.005) and a standard. Copper showed on one side, grey on the other, for both washers. Ed (Hudson Valley NY From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Apr 18 18:40:21 2010 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 19:40:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] The Red Car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I got my copy from Amazon a couple of years ago. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Apr 18 19:28:48 2010 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 21:28:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for anyone with experience installing a RevingtonTR 4-1 Exhaust Header on a TR4A Message-ID: Hello List, I recently purchased a really nice 4-1 Stainless Steel Exhaust header from RevingtonTR for my TR4A IRS and in fitting it I notice a couple of issues. I am hoping there is someone on the list with a TR4A IRS that has installed one of these headers who can answer a couple of questions. 1. After installing the header, I noticed that my new gear reduction starter is practically sitting on top of the header! In my opinion, it is way too close (can't insert my finger between the starter and the collector on the end of the header. I have considered trying to rotate the starter 180 degrees to see if that would help as it might clock the actual motor down and out of the way of the header but haven't yet. 2. I ended up having to drill out the two outside mounting holes as the spacing was not quite right. 3. It looks like I will have to grind out a notch in the frame to allow the header to clear it. I can send pictures to whoever needs them but I am now not sure if it is a good idea to install the header or just put the original manifold back on and go stock.. I did spend a lot of time restoring the stock TR4A exhaust manifold and it is painted with POR-15 exhaust manifold paint. Anyway, if anybody has installed one of these exhaust manifolds, I would like to talk to you. I sent a email off to RevingtonTR also but I appreciate any information anybody has with these manifolds. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 Triumph TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 20:49:41 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 19:49:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg In-Reply-To: References: <242408.15452.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On 4/18/10, Wbeech at flash.net wrote: > My TR3 has little catch that you activate by a quarter turn of the > knob. Is this an aftermarket feature? > > Bill No, that is more like how it is supposed to be (though w/o looking my recollection is that it locks when withdrawn and releases with a quarter-turn). But if someone just once pulls the cable out more than a couple of inches (say while installing and before it is secured at the carbs) a tiny half-moon piece of metal may fall out and disappear into that void where fallen parts go. Without that little bit (in a slot under the springy-band) the stop feature will not work. Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 20:54:28 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 19:54:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] The Red Car In-Reply-To: <4BCB6D59.1030606@greenheart.com> References: <20100418202849.4BA943C8EB@mx6.pacifier.net> <4BCB6D59.1030606@greenheart.com> Message-ID: On 4/18/10, Justin Wagner wrote: > Many years ago..... someone on this list reminisced about the book "The > Red Car"... and I seem to recall that it had a part in getting him > involved in the car hobby, etc... IIRC, Peter Egan (R&T columnist) confessed to an early interest sparked by this book. Geo From dmb993 at earthlink.net Sun Apr 18 21:51:47 2010 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 23:51:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] POR15 and UV In-Reply-To: <8CCACB181CD12AC-1068-DB60@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCACB181CD12AC-1068-DB60@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BCBD353.3020809@earthlink.net> Alan, Paint stripper easily removes POR15. I use Aircraft Stripper. David Brady '68 TR250 CD8124L From tom628 at verizon.net Sun Apr 18 21:54:38 2010 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 23:54:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Thrust washer thickness References: <000e0cd721f8ecaada04848afd1a@google.com> Message-ID: <93A8C7760058420C95BA3264DD7B76E7@Toms> Ed: Standard size thrust washers should be 0.092" new. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 7:13 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Thrust washer thickness > Does anyone know the nominal thickness of the crankshaft thrush washer? I > removed both sides, and they measured ~0.086" each. The end float was > 0.012". I plan on replacing with an oversized (0.005) and a standard. > Copper showed on one side, grey on the other, for both washers. > Ed (Hudson Valley NY > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Apr 18 22:26:53 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 00:26:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question Message-ID: List, The 3 gears on the planetary set are marked so that they are in a specific position relative to one another when the sunwheel is engaged. Why is this so? In other words, why is their position critical? If the gears were not marked for some reason, how could proper alignment be determined? Ed Woods From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 01:31:30 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 01:31:30 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?The_Red_Car?= Message-ID: <20100419073130.98B46187676@autox.team.net> Bob, The red car inspired many of us to buy English sports cars, hang out, race, and generally enjoy them. I, for one, am glad you are passing this passion down. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Bob Rochlin" Date: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 17:30 Subject: [TR] The Red Car To: "Truiumphs" I think it was me who first brought up the Red Car. I got a copy form the Scholastic Book Club when I was about 12 or 13. It really excited me to get an English Sports Car. At that time they were not only incredibly exotic, but also relatively inexpensive. I never did get that Red Car. My father owned an auto repair shop in Boston and the guy who ran the welding shop behind the gas station, Reid's Welding, was a stock car racer when stock cars really were, well, stock cars. All of the racers built tuned and repaired the cars they raced at Westwood Speedway on the weekends. Much to the dismay of my father I loved hanging around those guys. They would let me take the spark plugs out of the engines and hold the stupid end of the wrenches when they were disassembling their cars. In that respect I felt I was living the "Red Car" I still have a copy of the book and reread it right after I recommended it to the list. It was not as vivid as it was when I first read it as a kid and a bit daded l, but as I reread it, I remembered the passages that made me want more than anything to really get involved with cars and some of the memorable times with the guys at Reid's that I had forgotten. Over the intervening 50 years I've had a Corvettes, motorcycles, four wheelers, and sports cars, but none of them quite met the standard in my mind of the "Red Car" I never got. I, again, highly recommend the book for your children and grandchildren. Thanks Justin. Bob '72 TR6 (red) _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From popnglo at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 12:36:45 2010 From: popnglo at gmail.com (Ed Poplawski) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 14:36:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Thrust washer thickness In-Reply-To: References: <0016363106c13c759204849552f2@google.com> Message-ID: I got info from TRF, 0.092" is also the STD nominal thickness for a TR3. I'll maybe need to thin down a bit a 0.005" over to make up the difference to the 0.004 ~ 0.006 spec from the 0.012 float there now. BTW, I remeasured the ones I took out and they were also 0.092 (with one reading at 0.091"). Ed Hudson Valley NY On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 12:13 PM, Tom Note wrote: > Ed: I'm sorry, but re-reading your post I just realized you were > referring to *TR3* thrust washers, and I mistakenly assumed it was for the > TR6. > Must have been tired, or dumber than usual. Please wait for input from > someone familiar with TR3's. > > Sorry Ed. > > Tom > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* popnglo at gmail.com > *To:* Tom Note > *Sent:* Monday, April 19, 2010 7:32 AM > *Subject:* Re: Re: [TR] TR3 Thrust washer thickness > > Thanks, much appreciated. > > Ed > > On Apr 18, 2010 11:54pm, Tom Note wrote: > > Ed: Standard size thrust washers should be 0.092" new. > > > Tom > > > > > > Subject: [TR] TR3 Thrust washer thickness > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Does anyone know the nominal thickness of the crankshaft thrush washer? I > > > > > > > removed both sides, and they measured ~0.086" each. The end float was > > > > > > 0.012". I plan on replacing with an oversized (0.005) and a standard. > > > > > > Copper showed on one side, grey on the other, for both washers. > > > > > > Ed (Hudson Valley NY > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net From adcronin at ameritech.net Mon Apr 19 13:32:47 2010 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 12:32:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Mounting Inner Sills---rubber pads Message-ID: <859017.6432.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Am trial fitting body components on RATCO chassis and have a general question concerning the placement of the body mounting pads on the four frame outriggers that accept the inner sills and floor pans. The parts book shows up to 4 pads at each location and am wondering what has worked for others, and the sequence you used. IE, did you mount the pads to the outriggers and then attach the sill with no pad between the sill mount and the floor, or mount sill directly to outriggers and pads between sill and floor, etc. Any advise or past experience appreciated. Have also noted that the reproduction rear (sloped pre 60,000) floor panel is about 1/2" shy of meeting the inner sill on the RHS. Am thinking I should wait to deter min a remedy till the tub with inner fenders intact is placed over it. Dan From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 19 15:00:26 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 14:00:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005a01cae003$568d8780$03a89680$@rr.com> > The 3 gears on the planetary set are marked so that they are in a > specific > position relative to one another when the sunwheel is engaged. > > Why is this so? In other words, why is their position critical? I'm not sure I can explain this clearly, so bear with me. The number of teeth on the annulus is not a multiple of the number of teeth on the sun gear. Thus, if you draw an imaginary line from the center of rotation of the sunwheel, through the center of each planetary gear, it will hit both the sunwheel tooth and the annulus tooth in different positions. The two gears that are joined together to create each planetary gear are offset to match this "phase shift", but only in a certain position (since they also have different numbers of teeth). Some positions of the marks are simply impossible (the teeth won't mesh); but in some cases there is enough accumulated clearance to allow them to slide into engagement. That will pull the planetary carrier and sun gear off-center to some extent, leading to vibration in operation. It also causes most of the load to be carried by one planetary gear instead of evenly divided between 3 of them, so increased wear and even potentially tooth breakage could ensue. > If the gears were not marked for some reason, how could proper > alignment be determined? If the gears were not marked for some reason, I think I'd want to look for another set of gears. At any rate, I can't think of a guaranteed method of lining them up, short of cutting apart an annulus so the tooth engagement could be examined in situ. However, you might be able to do a setup without the housing, and check that everything is running on the same center, which _might_ be good enough. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 19 15:02:27 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 14:02:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg In-Reply-To: References: <242408.15452.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <005b01cae003$9e8fd330$dbaf7990$@rr.com> > But if someone just once pulls the cable out more than a couple of > inches (say while installing and before it is secured at the carbs) a > tiny half-moon piece of metal may fall out and disappear into that > void where fallen parts go. In addition, the original half-moon was fairly soft brass and would wear easily (as did the shaft it rode on). -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Apr 19 16:09:53 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 18:09:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mounting Inner Sills---rubber pads In-Reply-To: <859017.6432.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <859017.6432.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201004191809.53993.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 19 April 2010 03:32:47 pm A Daniel Cronin wrote: > Am trial fitting body components on RATCO chassis and have a general > question concerning the placement of the body mounting pads on the four > frame outriggers that accept the inner sills and floor pans. The parts > book shows up to 4 pads at each location and am wondering what has worked > for others, and the sequence you used. IE, did you mount the pads to the > outriggers and then attach the sill with no pad between the sill mount and > the floor, or mount sill directly to outriggers and pads between sill and > floor, etc. Any advise or past experience appreciated. Have also noted > that the reproduction rear (sloped pre 60,000) floor panel is about 1/2" > shy of meeting the inner sill on the RHS. Am thinking I should wait to > deter min a remedy till the tub with inner fenders intact is placed over > it. > Dan > Dan, I use contact cement to glue all pads to the frame. This includes all the metal pads as well. Makes installing the frame that much easier. On a 6 the # of pads and metal shims depends on the doors. Trial and error usually. Just completed installing the body tub on my 72 6 project. Everything went just as planned. Every hole in the body lined up with its hole/welded nut in the frame. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 19 17:37:10 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 16:37:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR air filters (K&N) In-Reply-To: <8CCACB3646F06CD-1068-DC9D@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCACB3646F06CD-1068-DC9D@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <00c901cae019$3e1a5dc0$ba4f1940$@rr.com> > If you ever look closely at K&N, it would be pretty hard to imagine > even the > tiniest dust particle getting through the cloth and on into the engine. You've never changed a baby's diaper, have you? > The only problem I've ever heard Here's one for your log then. Friend of mine had K&N's on his Porsche 914-6, which has triple barrel downdraft Weber carbs. Driving through the rain once, he managed to splash water up onto the air filter elements. The air filters literally shed little tiny bits of fiber into the engine! Clogged the air bleeds in the Webers up so badly that it wouldn't even idle any more. He finally had to pull them off and tear them down to get it to run right again. -- Randall From agraham at execulink.com Mon Apr 19 18:30:53 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 20:30:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 backing plates - position of cylinders Message-ID: <4BCCF5BD.7070602@execulink.com> Hello List: After installing a Tr3 Girling axle in my project, working on new wheel cylinders and adjusters. Not sure if I got the baking plates on the axle in the right orientation. Are the adjusters roughly at the 12 o'clock position (little past) and the wheel cylinders at the 6 o'clock position (a little before as well)?? Having one of those "duh" moments. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From jhassall at blacksburg.net Mon Apr 19 18:54:58 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 20:54:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mounting Inner Sills---rubber pads In-Reply-To: <859017.6432.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <859017.6432.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BCCFB62.9050001@blacksburg.net> On 4/19/2010 3:32 PM, A Daniel Cronin wrote: > Am trial fitting body components on RATCO chassis and have a general question > concerning the placement of the body mounting pads on the four frame > outriggers that accept the inner sills and floor pans. The parts book shows > up to 4 pads at each location and am wondering what has worked for others, and > the sequence you used. IE, did you mount the pads to the outriggers and then > attach the sill with no pad between the sill mount and the floor, or mount > sill directly to outriggers and pads between sill and floor, etc. Any advise > or past experience appreciated. Have also noted that the reproduction rear > (sloped pre 60,000) floor panel is about 1/2" shy of meeting the inner sill on > the RHS. Am thinking I should wait to deter min a remedy till the tub with > inner fenders intact is placed over it. > Dan Dan, the door fit is the critical determinant for the required number of shims. I set my TR4's tub on the frame, installed the doors then snugged down the bolts as a trial fit. Then I removed the bolts on one side, gently jacked up the tub, slid pads under the tub and re-snugged the bolts, . It'll take a bit of fiddling, but you'll get it. jim -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Apr 19 19:43:13 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 20:43:13 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR air filters (K&N) Message-ID: <6368157.408903.1271727793074.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net> Must have been over-oiled. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Apr 19, 2010, Randall wrote: > If you ever look closely at K&N, it would be pretty hard to imagine > even the > tiniest dust particle getting through the cloth and on into the engine. You've never changed a baby's diaper, have you? > The only problem I've ever heard Here's one for your log then. Friend of mine had K&N's on his Porsche 914-6, which has triple barrel downdraft Weber carbs. Driving through the rain once, he managed to splash water up onto the air filter elements. The air filters literally shed little tiny bits of fiber into the engine! Clogged the air bleeds in the Webers up so badly that it wouldn't even idle any more. He finally had to pull them off and tear them down to get it to run right again. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Apr 19 20:12:57 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 22:12:57 EDT Subject: [TR] TR air filters (K&N) Message-ID: <89890.13ba042d.38fe67a9@aol.com> In support of Randall, I've heard of many similar stories of K&N filters. I even had a bad, and similar to the 914-6 story, experience with one in the early '80's with my (embarrassment begins here) German-built Capri. It's not a brand I'll subscribe to again. In fact, the piece of research that I referred to earlier had a distinct filtration preference for the tea-strainer-and-shop-vac-foam method over K&N. I personally believe that open ram pipes filter as much dirt as K&N's (insert lengthy disclaimer/anti-libel drivel here). Tim From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 20:58:35 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 20:58:35 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR_air_filters_=28K=26N=29?= Message-ID: <20100420025835.990A818786F@autox.team.net> Well, I guess we have established that k/n has a giant empire built on fraudulent claims of filtration ability. Go figure ! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Date: Mon, Apr 19, 2010 17:12 Subject: [TR] TR air filters (K&N) To: , Cc: In support of Randall, I've heard of many similar stories of K&N filters. I even had a bad, and similar to the 914-6 story, experience with one in the early '80's with my (embarrassment begins here) German-built Capri. It's not a brand I'll subscribe to again. In fact, the piece of research that I referred to earlier had a distinct filtration preference for the tea-strainer-and-shop-vac-foam method over K&N. I personally believe that open ram pipes filter as much dirt as K&N's (insert lengthy disclaimer/anti-libel drivel here). Tim _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Apr 19 21:37:11 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 22:37:11 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done Message-ID: <10856584.411162.1271734631849.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net> To the list, I tried to provide this oil analysis to the list as a service to the list and the Triumph community at large. Why it has turned into a discussion about K&N oil filters is a mystery to me and is beyond the intent and scope of the analysis. I have enjoyed reading all the great discussion and the bashing of one persons opinion verses another, but this particular thread to me has run its course. At this point, I would like to terminate this discussion and move on to something else. My intent was never to offend anyone, and to appreciate everyone who had something to offer. I hope you can all appreciate this statement and move on to the next topic at hand. I am clear that we can all Google and get enough URL's to support our cause. Thanks, Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Apr 19 21:59:53 2010 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 23:59:53 EDT Subject: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done Message-ID: <8e49e.60f67db.38fe80b9@aol.com> Sorry, I did not realise it had started out as a meaningful and helpful oil analysis post, which of course is highly useful. I remember the post, but thought the K&N one was something separate. I just started picking up the thread when I saw "K&N" in the subject line, and the blood started to boil.... Tim From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Tue Apr 20 01:40:42 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 07:40:42 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg In-Reply-To: <005b01cae003$9e8fd330$dbaf7990$@rr.com> References: <242408.15452.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> <005b01cae003$9e8fd330$dbaf7990$@rr.com> Message-ID: <150752.98895.qm@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> > But if someone just once pulls the cable out more than a couple of > inches (say while installing and before it is secured at the carbs) a > tiny half-moon piece of metal may fall out and disappear into that > void where fallen parts go. To which Randall replied: In addition, the original half-moon was fairly soft brass and would wear easily (as did the shaft it rode on). Which all gives greater emphasis to the adage of 'keep it simple' in which the respective efficacies of purpose of the basic mousetrap and the clothes peg in their respective applications are hard to beat. Not sure where or how you could use a mousetrap in an LBC but I'd be interested to learn people's ideas. Jonmac From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Apr 20 06:07:18 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 08:07:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg In-Reply-To: <150752.98895.qm@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <242408.15452.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com><005b01cae003$9e8fd330$dbaf7990$@rr.com> <150752.98895.qm@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CCAE99282FAA29-1460-FA36@webmail-m051.sysops.aol.com> Which all gives greater emphasis to the adage of 'keep it simple' in which the respective efficacies of purpose of the basic mousetrap and the clothes peg in their respective applications are hard to beat. Not sure where or how you could use a mousetrap in an LBC but I'd be interested to learn people's ideas. Well, I, for one, am considering using mouse traps to secure the loose ends of the hood stick cover when the snaps fail. ;-) Seriously, having a car that was chewed on (and nested in) by those buggers, there are applications for mouse traps in these things. Cheers Dave Massey From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Apr 20 06:49:51 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 08:49:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done In-Reply-To: <10856584.411162.1271734631849.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net> References: <10856584.411162.1271734631849.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <9A8C8D2D6BB5435EA6CC714E5196E40D@BobPC> Craig, I hope you don't mind but I shared your original email with the folks in the 6-Pack Forum where it was met with great interest. I have a feeling that there's a few guys who may decide to send theirs in for analysis too. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 11:37 PM To: Subject: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done > To the list, > > I tried to provide this oil analysis to the list as a service to the list > and the Triumph community at large. > > Why it has turned into a discussion about K&N oil filters is a mystery to > me and is beyond the intent and scope of the analysis. > > I have enjoyed reading all the great discussion and the bashing of one > persons opinion verses another, but this particular thread to me has run > its course. > > At this point, I would like to terminate this discussion and move on to > something else. My intent was never to offend anyone, and to appreciate > everyone who had something to offer. > > I hope you can all appreciate this statement and move on to the next topic > at hand. I am clear that we can all Google and get enough URL's to > support our cause. > > Thanks, > > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jmitch at snet.net Tue Apr 20 09:47:34 2010 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 11:47:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done In-Reply-To: <9A8C8D2D6BB5435EA6CC714E5196E40D@BobPC> References: <10856584.411162.1271734631849.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net> <9A8C8D2D6BB5435EA6CC714E5196E40D@BobPC> Message-ID: <4BCDCC96.9@snet.net> My oil in the new engine is going out for analysis as soon as I hit 5000 miles. John Mitchell 76 TR6 Bob Danielson wrote: > Craig, > I hope you don't mind but I shared your original email with the folks > in the 6-Pack Forum where it was met with great interest. I have a > feeling that there's a few guys who may decide to send theirs in for > analysis too. > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 11:37 PM > To: > Subject: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done > >> To the list, >> >> I tried to provide this oil analysis to the list as a service to the >> list and the Triumph community at large. >> >> Why it has turned into a discussion about K&N oil filters is a >> mystery to me and is beyond the intent and scope of the analysis. >> >> I have enjoyed reading all the great discussion and the bashing of >> one persons opinion verses another, but this particular thread to me >> has run its course. >> >> At this point, I would like to terminate this discussion and move on >> to something else. My intent was never to offend anyone, and to >> appreciate everyone who had something to offer. >> >> I hope you can all appreciate this statement and move on to the next >> topic at hand. I am clear that we can all Google and get enough >> URL's to support our cause. >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> Craig >> 1972 Triumph TR6 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org >> > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 15:56:18 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:56:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question In-Reply-To: <005a01cae003$568d8780$03a89680$@rr.com> References: <005a01cae003$568d8780$03a89680$@rr.com> Message-ID: On 4/19/10, Randall wrote: > The number of teeth on the annulus is not a multiple of the number of teeth > on the sun gear.... Wow, this was actually discussed at our Tuesday BritCar Cafe (coffee session) this a.m. Even with two 'rocket scientists' present we had a hard time grasping anything beyond 'take it on faith that it has to be so'. Thanks for an explanation I could follow. Geo From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Apr 20 16:37:42 2010 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:37:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake Woes - Message-ID: <380-220104220223742313@M2W109.mail2web.com> After noticing that the wifes 70 Spitfire brakes seemed to require a little more pressure to stop that I thought they should, I figured that I would look them over - It has been about 6 years since I built the car, and they would most likely need some attention anyway  I had another tandem master that I had rebuilt some time ago, but when I looked at it it had a .70 bore, so I thought that it might be a GT6 master. Back to the car to remove the one off the car to check it out. Hummm, it too is a .70 bore, so I did a little research and found that there appears, or may be two types, a 5/8 bore and a .70 bore (which is what the GT6 uses). On top of that the rebuild kits are listed as different for the GT6 vs. Spitfire MK3/4 tandem master, which leads me to believe that something is different, and that I may have a bunch of GT6 masters - but how do you tell?? The casting numbers on the side of every one are different basically 64676764xxx, x being the different part of the casting number. One has 041, 03, and one has 018 but all are .70 bore. Is there a 5/8 dual master for the MK3/4 Spitfire? I haven't pulled the one off my 72, which is original to see what size it is (maybe I should check it to make sure it isn't going bad as well, since I've had a rash of master cylinder problems as of late, just rebuilt the leaking GT6 and now this...) The .70 bore may explain why the pressure required was a little high to begin with. A 5/8th bore would require a little less pressure, albeit slightly more travel. All the ones I see listed new have .70 bore, and the later Spitfires use a .70 bore, (but the fittings and reservoir are different for the later unit). On a side note, the one I removed from the car is toast, a surprise to me. I have used Silicon fluid from day one when I built the car, and the secondary piston/spring/valve assy was rusted solid and the bore was ruined! I was under the belief that Silicon fluid was NOT Hygroscopic (meaning that it did NOT absorb water), so where did the water that rusted these parts come from?? Never had glycol based fluid in this car from the start - Now the GT6 master seals were shot, but the parts were clean as ever, and that system originally had Glycol fluid in it but when I did the Spitfire about 6 years ago, I flushed the system in the GT6, replaced the lines with braided, and used Silicon in it as well So that all my cars use the same fluid. It was a little disturbing to me...but that is for another thread - I will still use Silicon, if nothing more than to prevent the paint from being ruined when it does leak. I just may flush it every four years or so  -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 20 17:47:26 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:47:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake Woes - In-Reply-To: <380-220104220223742313@M2W109.mail2web.com> References: <380-220104220223742313@M2W109.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <028501cae0e3$d9ea4f10$8dbeed30$@rr.com> > I have used Silicon fluid from day one when I built the car, and the > secondary piston/spring/valve assy was rusted solid and the bore was > ruined! Wow, that is a surprise. Just a thought, are you sure your fluid is silicone? There has been a lot of confusion between silicone and "synthetic" and "DOT 5.1". The latter two are not the same thing. -- Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 20 21:00:12 2010 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 23:00:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 'rollbar/lightbar' Message-ID: <38DFC8D9E4AD44D886E4355BE2A1B64B@OwnerPC> I may need to ask Triumph Forgiveness since Triumph Permission was never sought. I mounted a heavy gauge rollbar in my TR3 positioning it's two pads directly over the chassis's rear shock mounts. Of course, the body's rear shelf platform now lies between the rollbar and rear shock mount's. But, I feel safer knowing I might not be crushed in a roll-over. The real reason for such a project was to better the visibility of the little car by mounting a 'light bar' to the top of the rollbar. Homemade, of course. The light bar has brake lights/turn signals and running lights. Perhaps this project was kinda out-of-synch in the restoration of my TR3, especially since I've never driven this abandoned and drawn out project. But, because of this list, I was convinced of the need for such an item for my car. Even before it ever touched pavement. Two short length's of composite lumber were situated under the two footpads. However, no drilling thru the rear shelf was done. Possible attachment of the rollbar to the rear shelf's fuel tank pedestals/stands (3/8ths" x 24) is something that still maybe done. I hope that lifting the gas tank by more than an inch will not overly change the dynamics of this daily driver. I hope to soon post a pic of this 'rollbar/lightbar'. Thanks, Paul Dorsey From tom628 at verizon.net Tue Apr 20 21:54:28 2010 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 23:54:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 'rollbar/lightbar' References: <38DFC8D9E4AD44D886E4355BE2A1B64B@OwnerPC> Message-ID: Sounds interesting Paul. Looking forward to a pic or 2. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 11:00 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 'rollbar/lightbar' >I may need to ask Triumph Forgiveness since Triumph Permission was never > sought. > > I mounted a heavy gauge rollbar in my TR3 positioning it's two pads > directly > over the chassis's rear shock mounts. Of course, the body's rear shelf > platform now lies between the rollbar and rear shock mount's. But, I feel > safer knowing I might not be crushed in a roll-over. > > The real reason for such a project was to better the visibility of the > little > car by mounting a 'light bar' to the top of the rollbar. Homemade, of > course. > The light bar has brake lights/turn signals and running lights. > > Perhaps this project was kinda out-of-synch in the restoration of my TR3, > especially since I've never driven this abandoned and drawn out project. > But, > because of this list, I was convinced of the need for such an item for my > car. > Even before it ever touched pavement. > > Two short length's of composite lumber were situated under the two > footpads. > However, no drilling thru the rear shelf was done. Possible attachment of > the > rollbar to the rear shelf's fuel tank pedestals/stands (3/8ths" x 24) is > something that still maybe done. I hope that lifting the gas tank by more > than an inch will not overly change the dynamics of this daily driver. I > hope > to soon post a pic of this 'rollbar/lightbar'. > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Apr 21 05:27:47 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 07:27:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done In-Reply-To: <9A8C8D2D6BB5435EA6CC714E5196E40D@BobPC> References: <10856584.411162.1271734631849.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net> <9A8C8D2D6BB5435EA6CC714E5196E40D@BobPC> Message-ID: <863E0460AE7E4392B60D73C08F12A2FE@CarlPC> Where does one "send it out" to? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 8:49 AM Subject: Re: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done > Craig, > I hope you don't mind but I shared your original email with the folks in > the 6-Pack Forum where it was met with great interest. I have a feeling > that there's a few guys who may decide to send theirs in for analysis too. > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 11:37 PM > To: > Subject: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done > >> To the list, >> >> I tried to provide this oil analysis to the list as a service to the list >> and the Triumph community at large. >> >> Why it has turned into a discussion about K&N oil filters is a mystery to >> me and is beyond the intent and scope of the analysis. >> >> I have enjoyed reading all the great discussion and the bashing of one >> persons opinion verses another, but this particular thread to me has run >> its course. >> >> At this point, I would like to terminate this discussion and move on to >> something else. My intent was never to offend anyone, and to appreciate >> everyone who had something to offer. >> >> I hope you can all appreciate this statement and move on to the next >> topic at hand. I am clear that we can all Google and get enough URL's to >> support our cause. >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> Craig >> 1972 Triumph TR6 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Apr 21 05:42:25 2010 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 07:42:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake Woes - Message-ID: <380-220104321114225696@M2W140.mail2web.com> Nope, definitely Silicon and only Silicon, none of the 5.1 stuff - can't for the life of me figure our where the water would have come from - and I use Silicon in everything I have except the 2002 Mustang, which has ABS and specifies ONLY dot 3 or 4 (probably because of the aeration issues with Silicon and the way ABS works in this vehicle) At any rate I didn't switch that over, but everything else I have uses it - I rebuilt that master when I put it in, using only Silicon fluid during assembly, and the grease provided upon initial assembly and I could almost accept that maybe my fingers had left some moisture under the grease. But there was just too much rust, the spring, retainer cup and rod were a rusted, inseparable mass and the bore pitted...will surely have to re-sleeve if I want to re-use it. Had to use quit a bit of air pressure just to get the secondary piston out - Barry ********************************original message******************** Wow, that is a surprise. Just a thought, are you sure your fluid is silicone? There has been a lot of confusion between silicone and "synthetic" and "DOT 5.1". The latter two are not the same thing. -- Randall -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Apr 21 06:11:29 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 07:11:29 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done Message-ID: <815061392.528845.1271851889381.JavaMail.root@vms226.mailsrvcs.net> From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Apr 21 06:57:05 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 07:57:05 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done Message-ID: <1744411243.531156.1271854625192.JavaMail.root@vms226.mailsrvcs.net> On Apr 21, 2010, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ $22.95, get a free collection kit online, pay when you send in for analysis. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Apr 21, 2010, Carl TR wrote: Where does one "send it out" to? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 8:49 AM Subject: Re: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done > Craig, > I hope you don't mind but I shared your original email with the folks in > the 6-Pack Forum where it was met with great interest. I have a feeling > that there's a few guys who may decide to send theirs in for analysis too. > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 11:37 PM > To: > Subject: [TR] ZDDPlus oil analysis - Done > >> To the list, >> >> I tried to provide this oil analysis to the list as a service to the list >> and the Triumph community at large. >> >> Why it has turned into a discussion about K&N oil filters is a mystery to >> me and is beyond the intent and scope of the analysis. >> >> I have enjoyed reading all the great discussion and the bashing of one >> persons opinion verses another, but this particular thread to me has run >> its course. >> >> At this point, I would like to terminate this discussion and move on to >> something else. My intent was never to offend anyone, and to appreciate >> everyone who had something to offer. >> >> I hope you can all appreciate this statement and move on to the next >> topic at hand. I am clear that we can all Google and get enough URL's to >> support our cause. >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> Craig >> 1972 Triumph TR6 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From jmwagner at greenheart.com Wed Apr 21 13:15:32 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 12:15:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] K&N Filters Message-ID: <4BCF4ED4.5010102@greenheart.com> Correct me if I'm wrong... but the idea of K&N's is that you allow more air flow by providing a less dense/restrictive filter medium than say, paper, but it has a trick up it's sleeve to balance the increase in volume. The smaller particulates that might have passed through the filter otherwise, are caught, like flypaper, to the the oiled medium. Subsequently, you have to clean the filters in a bath and re-oil on reasonable intervals based on exposure. It's truly "apples and oranges" to compare filter media without comparing the benefits versus the disadvantages. The K&N offers very good air flow with less restriction than paper. The K&N filter can be cleaned and will last for years. (And, subsequently, can be cleaned before specific events, like a day of racing.) That said, you do have to clean them! And you do have to maintain the oil on the filter medium in order for them to perform correctly. In my opinion... K&N filters are FAR better than running without filters or with something basic like a stocking, or thin foam, etc. over velocity stacks, etc. It's also far better than having to maintain and replace standard filters that are restrictive even when new. It's also far better than the foam type filters and will last longer. I bought cars with old foam filters on them and some of the foam often disintegrated in my hands. That said, one has to balance their own personal needs, finances, and the conditions that the filters are likely to experience in determining the best choice of filter media. The experience mentioned by Randal where a filter was hit by water suggests to me that the filter was simply quite dirty and when hit with the water the material trapped in the oil of the filter was released in the form of a mud. Answer to that? Don't mount filters where they can be hit by water and keep the filters clean! I highly doubt that the material that caused the clogging was actual filter material itself. If the K&N's sloughed off fibers to the extent that they'd block engine parts, by being hit by water just once, why would there even be a filter left after years of cleaning and, supposedly, casting off of fibers? It's not like it can grow new fibers between cleanings! I had one set of K&N's for about 15 years, and I didn't sense any difference in density or weight. Yes, I'm biased... I like the K&N system. --Justin From deruiterville at hotmail.com Wed Apr 21 14:19:30 2010 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 15:19:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] K&N Filters In-Reply-To: <4BCF4ED4.5010102@greenheart.com> References: <4BCF4ED4.5010102@greenheart.com> Message-ID: Justin Wagner wrote: > > That said, you do have to clean them! And you do have to maintain the > oil on the filter medium in order for them to perform correctly. > That point cannot be overemphasized. I just helped a friend with his recent TR4 purchase. Nice looking car, but it was barely running when he got it and was missing and belching black smoke frequently. Didn't take long to realize the K&N filters were nearly completely plugged. Temporarily replaced them with fresh paper filters, and changed out the heavily sooted plugs and he had a completely different car. Nothing against the filters personally, but people need to realize that maintenance on them is not optional, it is a requirement. Randy 64 TR4 59 TR3A _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Apr 21 14:44:40 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 15:44:40 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] K&N Filters Message-ID: <797694816.97086.1271882680083.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> I had K&N's on my car in the 90's - will probably have them again when I am done with my project. I had two sets of elements, cleaning one and keeping it ready for replacement when performance or visual inspection prompted the change. Also, that meant that it was ready to go in minutes if needed. (but somehow in the ensuing years - i can find them - so will put the stock AC filters on to begin with) Carl Apr 21, 2010 08:36:55 PM, deruiterville at hotmail.com wrote: Justin Wagner wrote: > > That said, you do have to clean them! And you do have to maintain the > oil on the filter medium in order for them to perform correctly. > That point cannot be overemphasized. I just helped a friend with his recent TR4 purchase. Nice looking car, but it was barely running when he got it and was missing and belching black smoke frequently. Didn't take long to realize the K&N filters were nearly completely plugged. Temporarily replaced them with fresh paper filters, and changed out the heavily sooted plugs and he had a completely different car. Nothing against the filters personally, but people need to realize that maintenance on them is not optional, it is a requirement. Randy 64 TR4 59 TR3A _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 21 15:12:36 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 14:12:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] K&N Filters In-Reply-To: <4BCF4ED4.5010102@greenheart.com> References: <4BCF4ED4.5010102@greenheart.com> Message-ID: <042101cae197$5ea42f10$1bec8d30$@rr.com> > The smaller particulates that might have passed through the > filter otherwise, are caught, like flypaper, to the the oiled medium. The independent tests I've seen (and quoted) say otherwise. > It's truly "apples and oranges" to compare filter media without > comparing the benefits versus the disadvantages. Certainly one should weigh benefits and disadvantages. All I suggested was to be aware that one of the disadvantages is more dirt in your engine. > the water the material trapped in the oil of the filter was released in > the form of a mud. I wasn't there, but he examined the carbs under a microscope, and decided they were filter fibers. He didn't believe it either, seemed more reasonable that it was dirt in the rainwater, but that was his conclusion. > Don't mount filters where they > can be hit by water A 914/6 doesn't give a lot of choice in that area, unless you want to cut the body apart to install a Baja-style air intake. The filters were at the top of the engine compartment (on top of the downdraft carbs), comparable to where most of us have our air filters. > and keep the filters clean! Again, I wasn't there. But knowing my friend and how fanatic he is about his Porsche, I seriously doubt that he had not been servicing them as recommended by K&N. > If the K&N's sloughed off fibers to the extent that they'd > block engine parts, by being hit by water just once, why would there > even be a filter left after years of cleaning and, supposedly, casting > off of fibers? Perhaps they stop sloughing after a certain number of washings? Or perhaps it has to do with the water being forced through the filter by the suction of the engine, rather than being "gently drained by gravity" as K&N specifies. > Yes, I'm biased... I like the K&N system. And I have no problem with that. Get the facts, then make your own decision. The fact is that every independent test shows the K&N filters are inferior at keeping dirt out of the engine. -- Randall From tr3abobm77 at verizon.net Wed Apr 21 17:29:33 2010 From: tr3abobm77 at verizon.net (Triumph) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 19:29:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question In-Reply-To: <005a01cae003$568d8780$03a89680$@rr.com> References: <005a01cae003$568d8780$03a89680$@rr.com> Message-ID: <785ACCC512984A7198A208C84ADABFAA@zora> When I rebuilt my Type A overdrive a few years ago I remember spending about 20 minutes meshing my gears and I found that when you get it right there is no question about. They literally fall together. There is no binding. Bob Maassel Fort Wayne, IN 1959 TR3A tr3abobm77 at verizon.net -------------------------------------------------- From: "Randall" Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 5:00 PM To: Subject: Re: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question >> The 3 gears on the planetary set are marked so that they are in a >> specific >> position relative to one another when the sunwheel is engaged. >> >> Why is this so? In other words, why is their position critical? > > I'm not sure I can explain this clearly, so bear with me. > > The number of teeth on the annulus is not a multiple of the number of > teeth > on the sun gear. Thus, if you draw an imaginary line from the center of > rotation of the sunwheel, through the center of each planetary gear, it > will > hit both the sunwheel tooth and the annulus tooth in different positions. > The two gears that are joined together to create each planetary gear are > offset to match this "phase shift", but only in a certain position (since > they also have different numbers of teeth). > > Some positions of the marks are simply impossible (the teeth won't mesh); > but in some cases there is enough accumulated clearance to allow them to > slide into engagement. That will pull the planetary carrier and sun gear > off-center to some extent, leading to vibration in operation. It also > causes most of the load to be carried by one planetary gear instead of > evenly divided between 3 of them, so increased wear and even potentially > tooth breakage could ensue. > >> If the gears were not marked for some reason, how could proper >> alignment be determined? > > If the gears were not marked for some reason, I think I'd want to look for > another set of gears. At any rate, I can't think of a guaranteed method > of > lining them up, short of cutting apart an annulus so the tooth engagement > could be examined in situ. However, you might be able to do a setup > without > the housing, and check that everything is running on the same center, > which > _might_ be good enough. > > -- Randall From leejohn7 at gmail.com Thu Apr 22 12:19:41 2010 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:19:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator failing Message-ID: At least that's what i think is happening. On a long drive a week ago, in the cold rain with wipers and heater motor going and lights on, the battery ran down and of course caused much misfiring. There are less than 500 miles on the engine. The battery had discharged strangely in previous months but I chalked it up to repeated startings. I've tried to test the generator in the car, and don't get any read at all on my voltage meter. I've also tried the amp test, and if i've done it correctly, get no read there either. This is hard to believe as it is a new unit, from VB. I'm 99% sure I polarized it upon installation. Would someone be so kind as to describe a simple voltage test that I can conduct at the generator, so I can be certain I have that right? I know I also need to check the connections to the control box and the regulator and cutout. Many thanks John From jmwagner at greenheart.com Thu Apr 22 12:48:52 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:48:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 166 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BD09A14.60201@greenheart.com> Hey Randall... Some racers don't use filters at all... just open velocity stacks. Some racers just put some mesh over their velocity stacks. Fact is, there's always trade offs between flow and the density/effectiveness of the filter medium. I could put a cork in my carbs and that would stop all the filter particles, much better than K&N's, but somehow, I think I'd prefer the K&N's. Your boy looked through a microscope and determined it was filter particles? Gosh, a regular CSI story! Did he run it through one of those machines in his lab to determine if it actually had the same chemical make up of the filter? You said, "The fact is that every independent test shows the K&N filters are inferior at keeping dirt out of the engine." Can you provide links for "every independent test"? Or could you scan all the reports and data that you must have at your desk there? I'd love to see them...all of them! Also, I'd like to see the relative performance data too. Pleae make sure you get all of them. I'm curious to see the results of every independent test. I'd also like to forward them to K&N and see if they reply. Thanks. --Justin Message: 4 Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 14:12:36 -0700 From: "Randall" Subject: Re: [TR] K&N Filters To: "'Triumphs'" Message-ID: <042101cae197$5ea42f10$1bec8d30$@rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" >> The smaller particulates that might have passed through the >> filter otherwise, are caught, like flypaper, to the the oiled medium. > > The independent tests I've seen (and quoted) say otherwise. >> It's truly "apples and oranges" to compare filter media without >> comparing the benefits versus the disadvantages. > > Certainly one should weigh benefits and disadvantages. All I suggested was to be aware that one of the disadvantages is more dirt in your engine. >> the water the material trapped in the oil of the filter was released in >> the form of a mud. > > I wasn't there, but he examined the carbs under a microscope, and decided they were filter fibers. He didn't believe it either, seemed more reasonable that it was dirt in the rainwater, but that was his conclusion. >> Don't mount filters where they >> can be hit by water > > A 914/6 doesn't give a lot of choice in that area, unless you want to cut the body apart to install a Baja-style air intake. The filters were at the top of the engine compartment (on top of the downdraft carbs), comparable to where most of us have our air filters. >> and keep the filters clean! > > Again, I wasn't there. But knowing my friend and how fanatic he is about his Porsche, I seriously doubt that he had not been servicing them as recommended by K&N. >> If the K&N's sloughed off fibers to the extent that they'd >> block engine parts, by being hit by water just once, why would there >> even be a filter left after years of cleaning and, supposedly, casting >> off of fibers? > > Perhaps they stop sloughing after a certain number of washings? Or perhaps it has to do with the water being forced through the filter by the suction of the engine, rather than being "gently drained by gravity" as K&N specifies. >> Yes, I'm biased... I like the K&N system. > > And I have no problem with that. Get the facts, then make your own decision. The fact is that every independent test shows the K&N filters are inferior at keeping dirt out of the engine. -- Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Apr 22 13:31:06 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 14:31:06 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Independent air filter test Message-ID: <1340689316.619258.1271964666688.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Justin, Randall and list, Did some searching around and found this test very interesting: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Apr 22, 2010, Justin Wagner wrote: Hey Randall... Some racers don't use filters at all... just open velocity stacks. Some racers just put some mesh over their velocity stacks. Fact is, there's always trade offs between flow and the density/effectiveness of the filter medium. I could put a cork in my carbs and that would stop all the filter particles, much better than K&N's, but somehow, I think I'd prefer the K&N's. Your boy looked through a microscope and determined it was filter particles? Gosh, a regular CSI story! Did he run it through one of those machines in his lab to determine if it actually had the same chemical make up of the filter? You said, "The fact is that every independent test shows the K&N filters are inferior at keeping dirt out of the engine." Can you provide links for "every independent test"? Or could you scan all the reports and data that you must have at your desk there? I'd love to see them...all of them! Also, I'd like to see the relative performance data too. Pleae make sure you get all of them. I'm curious to see the results of every independent test. I'd also like to forward them to K&N and see if they reply. Thanks. --Justin Message: 4 Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 14:12:36 -0700 From: "Randall" Subject: Re: [TR] K&N Filters To: "'Triumphs'" Message-ID: <042101cae197$5ea42f10$1bec8d30$@rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" >> The smaller particulates that might have passed through the >> filter otherwise, are caught, like flypaper, to the the oiled medium. > > The independent tests I've seen (and quoted) say otherwise. >> It's truly "apples and oranges" to compare filter media without >> comparing the benefits versus the disadvantages. > > Certainly one should weigh benefits and disadvantages. All I suggested was to be aware that one of the disadvantages is more dirt in your engine. >> the water the material trapped in the oil of the filter was released in >> the form of a mud. > > I wasn't there, but he examined the carbs under a microscope, and decided they were filter fibers. He didn't believe it either, seemed more reasonable that it was dirt in the rainwater, but that was his conclusion. >> Don't mount filters where they >> can be hit by water > > A 914/6 doesn't give a lot of choice in that area, unless you want to cut the body apart to install a Baja-style air intake. The filters were at the top of the engine compartment (on top of the downdraft carbs), comparable to where most of us have our air filters. >> and keep the filters clean! > > Again, I wasn't there. But knowing my friend and how fanatic he is about his Porsche, I seriously doubt that he had not been servicing them as recommended by K&N. >> If the K&N's sloughed off fibers to the extent that they'd >> block engine parts, by being hit by water just once, why would there >> even be a filter left after years of cleaning and, supposedly, casting >> off of fibers? > > Perhaps they stop sloughing after a certain number of washings? Or perhaps it has to do with the water being forced through the filter by the suction of the engine, rather than being "gently drained by gravity" as K&N specifies. >> Yes, I'm biased... I like the K&N system. > > And I have no problem with that. Get the facts, then make your own decision. The fact is that every independent test shows the K&N filters are inferior at keeping dirt out of the engine. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From wayne at motorcarriage.com Thu Apr 22 14:00:31 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 16:00:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748 In-Reply-To: <1340689316.619258.1271964666688.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1340689316.619258.1271964666688.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: I have a Cylinder Head that came with the 69 Spitfire Mk III I bought. The Stamped # is TKC 2748, Casting #'s are (RKO 0589) and (V3315 2840) Maybe the Casting #'s can be off a # or so, I swiped them with some Emery Cloth but still not clearly legible. The Intake Valves look to be about 1.380" and it does have Brass Plugs in the Air Ports above the Exhaust ports. I'd say it's definitely a 1500, but I'd like to know what year. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA From bielings at comcast.net Thu Apr 22 14:12:49 2010 From: bielings at comcast.net (bielings) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 16:12:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Motor mounts Message-ID: <07C065A93C454B7FB9F6C5647B38CA60@bielings> I am replacing my TR3a's motor mounts. Who sells the best? From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Thu Apr 22 14:42:21 2010 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 15:42:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB7274D5@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> List- Many thanks for your collective help. If this were Stump the Chumps on Car Talk, those of you who responded by thinking my carb problem was a leaking float are correct. I could not find where the gas penetrated the float, but it clearly was taking on gas and not "floating." Many thanks again to this List and to those responsible for its' existence. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY 1963 Jaguar Mk II RHD 1968 Triumph TR 250 1963 Harley Davidson Topper 2000 Indian Chief 2007 Harley Davidson Heritage Springer Classic -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Thornton Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 9:19 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: John Swauger Subject: [TR] TR 250 carb woes List- I need your collective help. I have a relatively new restoration of a TR 250 and the carbs were rebuilt in the Summer of 2008. Since then, the car has run relatively care free. However, after a few month lay off, I tried driving it in March, only to smell a strong gas smell once started. I left the car running, popped the hood and determined gas was pouring out of the float bowl of the rear carburetor. Last night, a friend and I tore down the carbs and found a small amount of dirt in the rear carb, installed Grose jets in both reassembled them and the same thing occurred in the rear carb only. We then removed the carbs, inspected both and adjusted the float to 11/16ths as the rebuild kit suggested. Same result. We are baffled about why the rear carb is overflowing gas from the rear carburetor. Any ideas of what we do next? Many thanks in advance. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY 1963 Jaguar Mk II RHD 1968 Triumph TR 250 1963 Harley Davidson Topper 2000 Indian Chief 2007 Harley Davidson Heritage Springer Classic _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sothornton at stevethorntonl aw.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 22 15:05:37 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 14:05:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Independent air filter test In-Reply-To: <1340689316.619258.1271964666688.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1340689316.619258.1271964666688.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <019f01cae25f$8f42f160$adc8d420$@rr.com> > Did some searching around and found this test very interesting: > http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm Thanks, Craig. Oddly enough, that's one of the links I posted before. The other is in the archives. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 22 15:42:52 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 14:42:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator failing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01a101cae264$c3420050$49c600f0$@rr.com> > Would someone be so kind as to describe a simple voltage test that I > can > conduct at the generator, so I can be certain I have that right? Based on the tests I did on my TR3A many years ago, what you saw is actually at least close to being normal. The TR4 generator is only rated at 21 amps, and I measured the actual load at about 22 amps with the ignition, heater, wipers, and lights. Plus of course, the generator only puts out maximum current when turning fairly rapidly, over about 1500 engine rpm or so. At lower speeds, it won't keep up and the battery runs down even faster. Once the cutout has closed (putting out the red light), the voltage at the generator should be exactly the same as the battery voltage (since the cutout relay connects them together). So, for a simple OK/NOT OK test, I would suggest running the engine at a fast idle (1500 rpm) and using an accurate voltmeter to check the voltage at the battery. With the lights and such off; and the battery reasonably well charged, you should see about 14.4 volts. Now turn on the headlights and other loads, and check again. If the voltage drops below about 13.0, you've got a problem. FWIW, mine improved noticeably after I removed the moving regulator contact and cleaned both it and its mate in the control box thoroughly with a point file. Then when I reinstalled it, I was careful to set the gap as the book specifies. But it still won't keep the battery charged when running around town (or heavy traffic) at night. I'm probably going to go back to running an alternator. Oh, one other point, the generator and control box work very closely together. If the generator is working at all, it's up to the control box to limit the current, as otherwise the generator will happily put out too much current for too long, overheat and destroy itself. I learned that lesson the hard way, many years ago. -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Apr 22 16:34:12 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 15:34:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 generator failing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 4/22/10, Lee&John Howard wrote: > Would someone be so kind as to describe a simple voltage test that I can > conduct at the generator, so I can be certain I have that right? Possibly this will help (from a long-ago post, imagine an organ riff as used to tell radio listeners that a flashback is coming)... 1. Verify that the battery is in good condition. 2. Verify belt tension is okay. 3. Test the Armature -- Disconnect dynamo leads and check voltage at the D terminal (the big one) at 1500 RPM should be 1.5 - 3.0 V. 4. Test the Field -- Leave voltmeter as above and connect ammeter between D terminal and F terminal (the little one). Increase engine speed until voltage is about 12V, ammeter should read about 2 amps. Haynes offers a variation on the above -- you disconnect the leads and connect a jumper wire between D & F. At idle the dynamo should then put out about 15V. They indicate that a reading of 0 suggests the brushes are faulty, about 1V suggests the field is faulty, 4 to 6V suggests the armature is faulty. Geo From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Apr 22 17:54:33 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 16:54:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener Message-ID: Need a little help installing a Dzus fstener on the TR3 side curtain. There is a small cone shaped washer with the new one. Moss picture shows it installed upside down, but how is it fastened ?? A curious, uneducated mind would like to know ... -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From alramsay at mts.net Thu Apr 22 18:14:57 2010 From: alramsay at mts.net (Al Ramsay) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:14:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Door check straps Message-ID: We are restoring a 1960 TR3 and realized that one door check strap is shorter than the other. Anyone know which goes on which side? Pretty basic question but we have had lots of different answers.. Al Ramsay 1959 TR3 1969 GT6 From pcaffrey at ymail.com Thu Apr 22 18:41:57 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 17:41:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Toggle Switch Message-ID: <521946.59028.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Hi List, My TR4A has a toggle switch in the upper left of the dashboard. The switch was never wired to anything and is broken. I'm looking for a replacement switch so it can be used to activate an electric fan. When searching for a switch replacement, I found nothing and realized that the original TR4A dashboard never had a switch like this one. Does anyone know why such a switch was ever installed on the dashboard? (It was on the car when I bought it in the late 70's.) Did some TR4As just come with this type of auxiliary switch? Thanks for any info. Pat TR4A '67 1CTC/72746-L From wbeech at flash.net Thu Apr 22 19:32:40 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:32:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Door check straps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <602A6D6912E94E72B9D3D3714CEFDCAE@beecherlt2> Al, Mine are the same on my '58 TR3. Perhaps one is not an OEM TR3 item. I am sure you could call Moss or TRF and they would measure one from their new stock. They have usually been very accommodating in this manner for me in the past. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Ramsay Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 6:15 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tr3 Door check straps We are restoring a 1960 TR3 and realized that one door check strap is shorter than the other. Anyone know which goes on which side? Pretty basic question but we have had lots of different answers.. Al Ramsay 1959 TR3 1969 GT6 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Apr 22 20:15:42 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 22:15:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748 In-Reply-To: References: <1340689316.619258.1271964666688.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <8CCB0A20255C106-A8C-190D9@webmail-d039.sysops.aol.com> Well, a quick Google search on TKC2748 would lead me to believe that it's probably a 9.0:1 Spitfire 1500 head, circa 1976 (but not California?). See: --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Wayne Lee To: Triumph List Sent: Thu, Apr 22, 2010 4:00 pm Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748 I have a Cylinder Head that came with the 69 Spitfire Mk III I bought. The Stamped # is TKC 2748, Casting #'s are (RKO 0589) and (V3315 2840) Maybe the Casting #'s can be off a # or so, I swiped them with some Emery Cloth but still not clearly legible. The Intake Valves look to be about 1.380" and it does have Brass Plugs in the Air Ports above the Exhaust ports. I'd say it's definitely a 1500, but I'd like to know what year. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/zoboherald at aol.com = From wayne at motorcarriage.com Thu Apr 22 21:43:04 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 23:43:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: <8CCB0A20255C106-A8C-190D9@webmail-d039.sysops.aol.com> References: <1340689316.619258.1271964666688.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> <8CCB0A20255C106-A8C-190D9@webmail-d039.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B206713685D462FB18437C629597B0A@D794W231> Hi Andy, Thanks for the link. I was trying Google with the # today and didn't get this link. At the Canley Classics Website I also put in another Head I have on a Block,, # 515573 and it came back as a CYLINDER HEAD - HERALD 13/60 UNLEADED. What's this mean by Unleaded? It doesn't even have the Air Injection Ports. Is this an early MkIV maybe? It's presently sitting on Engine Block # FK32033UE.. This comes up NLA at Canley Classics. Do You know what Vintage Block it is? Cheers, Wayne From: Andrew Mace Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 10:15 PM To: wayne at motorcarriage.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748 Well, a quick Google search on TKC2748 would lead me to believe that it's probably a 9.0:1 Spitfire 1500 head, circa 1976 (but not California?). See: --Andy Mace From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 22 22:56:11 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 21:56:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0ce301cae2a1$4b8c7a30$0301a8c0@randall> > Need a little help installing a Dzus fstener on the TR3 side > curtain. There is a small cone shaped washer with the new one. Moss > picture shows it installed upside down, but how is it fastened ?? After forcing the washer over the end of the Dzus button, you flatten the washer, which makes the hole smaller and locks it into place. Randall From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Fri Apr 23 05:13:38 2010 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 11:13:38 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Toggle Switch In-Reply-To: <521946.59028.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <521946.59028.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <406152.68062.qm@web28303.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> P. Caffrey wrote: Did some TR4As just come with this type of auxiliary switch? No! Jonmac From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Apr 23 05:29:05 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 05:29:05 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4A_Dash_Toggle_Switch?= Message-ID: <20100423112905.352F5187678@autox.team.net> Any sources for tr4 pull type headlights switch? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "John Macartney" Date: Fri, Apr 23, 2010 07:13 Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Toggle Switch To: "P Caffrey" , "list Triumph" P. Caffrey wrote: Did some TR4As just come with this type of auxiliary switch? No! Jonmac _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 23 08:26:44 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 07:26:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Solid state regulator (was Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 167) In-Reply-To: <1952938044.17234381272028151377.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1024642502.17227201272027357626.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1952938044.17234381272028151377.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0d8101cae2f1$0027e250$0301a8c0@randall> Tony wrote: > I am currently (pun intended) working on a modern solid state > regulator that would be a drop-in replacement for the > mechanical unit. FWIW, such conversions are available commercially as well: http://www.wiltonae.com/home/index.aspx There's a photo of the TR2-3A version at: http://www.wiltonae.com/home/index.aspx and a "happy user" report at http://tinyurl.com/3a2exs7 I've thought about doing something similar on my own; but after cleaning and careful adjustment, my original control box actually works pretty good. The real limitation is the generator itself; and eventually I'm going to want power for some tunes and an electric radiator fan. Randall From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Apr 23 08:49:41 2010 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 10:49:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: <4B206713685D462FB18437C629597B0A@D794W231> References: <1340689316.619258.1271964666688.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> <8CCB0A20255C106-A8C-190D9@webmail-d039.sysops.aol.com> <4B206713685D462FB18437C629597B0A@D794W231> Message-ID: <8CCB10B56E5D32F-106C-5818@webmail-m037.sysops.aol.com> Wayne, that block would be a circa 1972 Spitfire MkIV "Federal" (hence the "U" in the suffix) engine, low compression and recessed bores. As for the head, the "unleaded" might mean just that; that it's suitable for unleaded fuel. I vaguely remember reading somewhere that, by the early or perhaps mid-1970s, most all Triumph engines were being built to run on leaded, low-lead or unleaded fuel. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Wayne Lee To: Andrew Mace ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Apr 22, 2010 11:43 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 23 08:54:40 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 07:54:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Toggle Switch In-Reply-To: <20100423112905.352F5187678@autox.team.net> References: <20100423112905.352F5187678@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <0d8c01cae2f4$e72d1730$0301a8c0@randall> > Any sources for tr4 pull type headlights switch? I don't know of a commercial source offhand. But they show up on ebay fairly often, both used and NOS. Here's one: http://tinyurl.com/2392yc3 (He didn't list the TR4 application, but it's the right Lucas switch. Lucas 34477B will also work and is listed as a replacement for the 34317.) Randall From mdporter at dfn.com Thu Apr 22 16:44:12 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 16:44:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] Independent air filter test In-Reply-To: <1340689316.619258.1271964666688.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1340689316.619258.1271964666688.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <4BD0D13C.6080309@dfn.com> thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Justin, Randall and list, > > Did some searching around and found this test very interesting: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm > > I'd already put in a couple of cents' worth on this thread, but, I guess it was too big. This test reminds me of a couple of things from the heavy-duty diesel market. Filtration is a big deal with big diesels--every manufacturer wants high mileage between rebuilds because that's a reputation builder. I know of no HD diesel manufacturer that has certified K&Ns for use. More importantly, they do test filters. One of the things that was found was paper filters get better over time (up to a point), and the general recommendation was that instead of changing them frequently, the filter should be cleaned, not by blowing air through the filter, but by tamping them on a hard surface to shake off the surface dust, clean the housing and reinstall, and change the filter every other cycle (or if the filter drop reached 28-30" H2O--this certainly wouldn't be recommended with a naturally-aspirated engine, but, all diesels today depend upon turbos and the suction on the inlet side of the turbo is far higher than for a conventional gasoline engine). The thinking was that larger particles blocked smaller openings in the weave of the paper and kept more small particles out. That said, the testing mentioned at the link above certainly could have been more scientific. Color is only a rough indicator. I would have been more impressed with a test that took a tare weight of the second filter, and weighed each sample to see the total filter load by weight, and an analysis by particle size would have been more illuminating, but, that's probably beyond the guy's research budget. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Apr 23 09:36:13 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 08:36:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Door check straps In-Reply-To: <602A6D6912E94E72B9D3D3714CEFDCAE@beecherlt2> References: <602A6D6912E94E72B9D3D3714CEFDCAE@beecherlt2> Message-ID: I have an original in hand and it measures 3.6" total length and 3.2" from hole-center to hole-center. Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Apr 23 09:47:35 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 08:47:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Toggle Switch In-Reply-To: <0d8c01cae2f4$e72d1730$0301a8c0@randall> References: <20100423112905.352F5187678@autox.team.net> <0d8c01cae2f4$e72d1730$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: As noted, those headlamp switches were used in several applications (including 2-speed wipers I think) so save the old knob and search by the numbers or perhaps the rear view. The PO dash mounted toggle could be almost anything... turn signals, headlamps, smoke screen, ejection seat. I have a auxillary switches for an electric fan and something secret but like to keep them in a hidden location for apeearances sake. Geo From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Apr 23 09:48:47 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 11:48:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) Message-ID: <20100423114847.ASD09472@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> > Wayne, that block would be a circa 1972 Spitfire MkIV > "Federal" (hence the "U" in the suffix) engine, low > compression and recessed bores. I've rarely had occasion to think about such things (if it runs, you just run it) and I haven't followed this thread too closely (too much going on lately). But I recall being told that the 7.5:1 vs. 9.0:1 difference was strictly in the head. Yes, no? -- Jim Muller Or maybe they really said "No, it's all in your head." From spitlist at cox.net Fri Apr 23 10:35:19 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 09:35:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: <20100423114847.ASD09472@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20100423114847.ASD09472@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <13AB1C54E1354476ACD6060A4832F796@joepentiumnew> I can categorically say that if you use an unaltered 1500 head on a 1300 engine, you will not be very satisfied with the performance. The reason is that the 1500 heads are about a quarter inch thicker than the 1300 heads and unless you cut it way down, the compression ratio will be so low that it will suffer. I have a large valve 1500 head on the Mk3 (1300) engine in my red Mk1 Spit, Huxley. In order to achieve the desired compression ratio, I had to have about a quarter inch of metal shaved off the bottom. All you have to do to verify this is compare a stock 1500 head with any head off a 1300 engine. Regarding Unleaded heads, I doubt that Triumph did those prior to 1975 since that was the first year Unleaded fuel was universally offered in the US and the first year the government mandated new cars use it. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 8:49 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) > Wayne, that block would be a circa 1972 Spitfire MkIV > "Federal" (hence the "U" in the suffix) engine, low > compression and recessed bores. I've rarely had occasion to think about such things (if it runs, you just run it) and I haven't followed this thread too closely (too much going on lately). But I recall being told that the 7.5:1 vs. 9.0:1 difference was strictly in the head. Yes, no? -- Jim Muller Or maybe they really said "No, it's all in your head." _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Fri Apr 23 10:56:50 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 12:56:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Independent air filter test In-Reply-To: <4BD0D13C.6080309@dfn.com> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134600@CMS01.winhosting.local> Hi Michael: Those are indeed good ideas for measuring, but the subject is trickier than one might imagine. (In a different lifetime I used to develop testing equipment in the pulp & paper industry.) Comparing paper before and after any process involves having to control humidity to rather a precise degree. Bone dry weight is quite different from when at normal atmospheric humidity. Lignin levels, fibre diameter, curl etc could all have changed due to the abrasive effect of the air flow. (I refer to his test sheets of course, not the primary filter media being compared which are different types of material). Ceteris paribus, I think that the colour test the guy has done has probably a very good relative value. Absolute measurement level is definitely debatable. I'm a great believer in using K&Ns (I have them on my triple Stromberg setup), but I don't have any difficulty in believing that they provide less filtration than a more restrictive paper filter. Less resistance to air flow just has to mean less obscuring material and shorter mean particle path through the filter web. For me, I have found that the TR6 is prone to running over rich due to input restrictions as the filter fills in. Running jet black with soot is surely tougher on the engine and exhaust than a bit of extra micro-dust. Anyway, I live near a lake in a humid environment; dust is less of an issue than pollen. And that sticky stuff gets caught by my K&Ns pretty well, judging by the strange colours they turn during the season. Overall, for me the deciding factor is that the K&Ns look nicer than the standard paper units. And despite all the scientific discussion being pushed around, that is really why I installed the things. Best regards, Mark -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Porter Sent: April 22, 2010 6:44 PM To: thenicholls at verizon.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; jmwagner at greenheart.com Subject: Re: [TR] Independent air filter test thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Justin, Randall and list, > > Did some searching around and found this test very interesting: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm > > I'd already put in a couple of cents' worth on this thread, but, I guess it was too big. This test reminds me of a couple of things from the heavy-duty diesel market. Filtration is a big deal with big diesels--every manufacturer wants high mileage between rebuilds because that's a reputation builder. I know of no HD diesel manufacturer that has certified K&Ns for use. More importantly, they do test filters. One of the things that was found was paper filters get better over time (up to a point), and the general recommendation was that instead of changing them frequently, the filter should be cleaned, not by blowing air through the filter, but by tamping them on a hard surface to shake off the surface dust, clean the housing and reinstall, and change the filter every other cycle (or if the filter drop reached 28-30" H2O--this certainly wouldn't be recommended with a naturally-aspirated engine, but, all diesels today depend upon turbos and the suction on the inlet side of the turbo is far higher than for a conventional gasoline engine). The thinking was that larger particles blocked smaller openings in the weave of the paper and kept more small particles out. That said, the testing mentioned at the link above certainly could have been more scientific. Color is only a rough indicator. I would have been more impressed with a test that took a tare weight of the second filter, and weighed each sample to see the total filter load by weight, and an analysis by particle size would have been more illuminating, but, that's probably beyond the guy's research budget. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM From wayne at motorcarriage.com Fri Apr 23 11:14:31 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 13:14:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: <13AB1C54E1354476ACD6060A4832F796@joepentiumnew> References: <20100423114847.ASD09472@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> <13AB1C54E1354476ACD6060A4832F796@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: Hi Joe, Yes I'm aware of the large Combustion Chambers on the 1500. I have the Head here at work. I would be C.C.ing the Combustion Chambers and figure on a C.R. at the Deck Height with .040" over AE Pistons. My biggest question was whether to use my Cylinder Head # 515573 Herald Small Valve Head which shares specs with the Mk3 and probably came off of it to start with. It will end up with the 1 7/16 Intakes and Ports matched to Euro 1500 2 x HS4 Manifold and Carbs. Ultimately I'd like to end up with about 9.5:1 C.R. in either configuration. Any opinions on what's the best Head to start with? I've got a couple already. Thanks, Wayne -------------------------------------------------- From: "Joe Curry" Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 12:35 PM To: ; Subject: Re: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) > I can categorically say that if you use an unaltered 1500 head on a 1300 > engine, you will not be very satisfied with the performance. The reason > is > that the 1500 heads are about a quarter inch thicker than the 1300 heads > and > unless you cut it way down, the compression ratio will be so low that it > will suffer. > > I have a large valve 1500 head on the Mk3 (1300) engine in my red Mk1 > Spit, > Huxley. In order to achieve the desired compression ratio, I had to have > about a quarter inch of metal shaved off the bottom. > > All you have to do to verify this is compare a stock 1500 head with any > head > off a 1300 engine. > > Regarding Unleaded heads, I doubt that Triumph did those prior to 1975 > since > that was the first year Unleaded fuel was universally offered in the US > and > the first year the government mandated new cars use it. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com > Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 8:49 AM > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now > another > Head and Block) > >> Wayne, that block would be a circa 1972 Spitfire MkIV >> "Federal" (hence the "U" in the suffix) engine, low >> compression and recessed bores. > > I've rarely had occasion to think about such things (if it runs, you just > run it) and I haven't followed this thread too closely (too much going on > lately). But I recall being told that the 7.5:1 vs. 9.0:1 difference was > strictly in the head. > > Yes, no? > -- > Jim Muller > Or maybe they really said "No, it's all in your head." > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com From pethier at comcast.net Fri Apr 23 11:48:53 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 17:48:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: <173743165.17743871272044602561.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1067590468.17746901272044933377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > Regarding Unleaded heads, I doubt that Triumph did those prior to 1975 > since > that was the first year Unleaded fuel was universally offered in the > US and > the first year the government mandated new cars use it. This last partv about USA laws is not true. I bought a late-model 1977 Subaru (called a "Stage-II" because it was the 1978 body style) in the summer of 1977. Unlike many other cars of that time, it had no cat converter and no restriction in the fuel filler neck to prevent the insertion of a leaded-fuel filler hose. It was labeled as meeting all USA (49-state) laws and allowing the use of leaded gasoline. Interestingly enough, the exhaust system did run hotter than other non-cat cars. I drove the car for 4 years, and put leaded fuel in it the whole time, as I recall. It was also the last brand-new car I have ever bought. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From spitlist at cox.net Fri Apr 23 11:56:39 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 10:56:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: <1067590468.17746901272044933377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <173743165.17743871272044602561.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1067590468.17746901272044933377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <7A33FA8B1E064C038964FF117F5D2080@joepentiumnew> Maybe there was an exclusion for "Furin" cars. Mt 75 Vette I bought new had that equipment. Joe -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net [mailto:pethier at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 10:49 AM To: Joe Curry Cc: jimmuller at rcn.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) > Regarding Unleaded heads, I doubt that Triumph did those prior to 1975 > since > that was the first year Unleaded fuel was universally offered in the > US and > the first year the government mandated new cars use it. This last partv about USA laws is not true. I bought a late-model 1977 Subaru (called a "Stage-II" because it was the 1978 body style) in the summer of 1977. Unlike many other cars of that time, it had no cat converter and no restriction in the fuel filler neck to prevent the insertion of a leaded-fuel filler hose. It was labeled as meeting all USA (49-state) laws and allowing the use of leaded gasoline. Interestingly enough, the exhaust system did run hotter than other non-cat cars. I drove the car for 4 years, and put leaded fuel in it the whole time, as I recall. It was also the last brand-new car I have ever bought. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From rawanderer at comcast.net Fri Apr 23 12:20:05 2010 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 18:20:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: <1067590468.17746901272044933377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1718877201.19892701272046805481.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> SomeB non-USA car brands (e.g. SAAB) did not initially require catalytic converters and unleaded fuel.B Ditto for vans and trucks, even American brands.B I had a 1982 Ford E-350 (bought used in 1986) that did not have the converter or the restricted filler tube.B I could get only unleaded gas where I lived then, which was northern New Jersey.B I was very surprised when I moved to Denver, Colo., in 1990 that I could buy unleaded regular at the Diamond Shamrock (now Valero).B B Of course, I have no idea if the heads were "unleaded."B When I sold the van in 1999, it had some engine issues which may or may not have been caused by using only unleaded gas except for theB 3-1/2 years I lived in Denver. BobW Montgomeryville, Pa. Member, Delaware Valley Triumphs 1974 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: pethier at comcast.net To: "Joe Curry" Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 1:48:53 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) > Regarding Unleaded heads, I doubt that Triumph did those prior to 1975 > since > that was the first year Unleaded fuel was universally offered in the > US and > the first year the government mandated new cars use it. This last partv about USA laws is not true. B I bought a late-model 1977 Subaru (called a "Stage-II" because it was the 1978 body style) in the summer of 1977. B Unlike many other cars of that time, it had no cat converter and no restriction in the fuel filler neck to prevent the insertion of a leaded-fuel filler hose. B It was labeled as meeting all USA (49-state) laws and allowing the use of leaded gasoline. B Interestingly enough, the exhaust system did run hotter than other non-cat cars. B I drove the car for 4 years, and put leaded fuel in it the whole time, as I recall. It was also the last brand-new car I have ever bought. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net From pethier at comcast.net Fri Apr 23 12:39:31 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 18:39:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: <7A33FA8B1E064C038964FF117F5D2080@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <1696208150.17771071272047971030.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> No. I am not saying that there were no 1975 cars with cats. I am saying that as late as mid-1977 that there were still some cars which could pass the USA smog specs without cats. These cars were not resticted to unleaded gas. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From coefront at shaw.ca Fri Apr 23 12:36:36 2010 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 12:36:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] Air Cleaner Base TR8 Message-ID: Could someone please assist supplying the base for the air filter housing of my F.I. TR8. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca From spitlist at cox.net Fri Apr 23 12:49:28 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 11:49:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: <1696208150.17771071272047971030.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <7A33FA8B1E064C038964FF117F5D2080@joepentiumnew> <1696208150.17771071272047971030.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I understood that. What I am saying is that perhaps the restrictions were only for cars manufactured in the US. I don't think it applied to trucks until later. Joe -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net [mailto:pethier at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 11:40 AM To: Joe Curry Cc: jimmuller at rcn.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) No. I am not saying that there were no 1975 cars with cats. I am saying that as late as mid-1977 that there were still some cars which could pass the USA smog specs without cats. These cars were not resticted to unleaded gas. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From jeremiah at curryclan.net Fri Apr 23 12:58:18 2010 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (jeremiah at curryclan.net) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 14:58:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 Finally on the road and a brake question Message-ID: <1379759538.142573.1272049098734.JavaMail.open-xchange@oxusltgw09.schlund.de> After about 5 years I now have my 57 TR3 (TS16441L) legally on the road in Utah!!B The car has been sitting for 41 years, but I have only had it for ~5 yrs.B Fun to drive and little scary for someone who has never driven anything similar.B My daily drivers are a 1992 MR2 turbo and an Audi allroad.B Thanks to all of those who have answered questions along the way and to Mark for running the list. B Here is my question When I went to drive the car the other day, the brake/clutch reservoirs were empty (or at least nearly so).B I had filled them and bled the system about 4 months earlier after replacing the seals in the brakes and the rubber lines.B I did not do anything to the master cylinders, but the pedal seemed to be firm and everything was working fine.B So I added a bunch of fluid and was able to drive, the brakes were a little spongy, and the clutch didn't feel like it was totally disengaging without pumping, but I assume it just needs bled. B My question is, where could the fluid have gone?B my first thought was the master cylinder, but if that was the case, I would have expected one of the baffles in the reservoir to be low.B Should I replace seals in them anyway?, sounds like a lot of work. B On another note, I tried last night to put the soft top on.B I wasn't sure how to make it fit, so I tried attaching the top with the frame not fully erected and then tried to push it erect.B Is that the right way to do it?B I ended up ripping a seam, but I guess that isn't to surprising for a >40 yr old top. B thanks, Jeremiah From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Apr 23 14:00:52 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 16:00:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: References: <7A33FA8B1E064C038964FF117F5D2080@joepentiumnew><1696208150.17771071272047971030.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CCB136CFE206F0-42F4-429@Webmail-m112.sysops.aol.com> I understood that. What I am saying is that perhaps the restrictions were only for cars manufactured in the US. I don't think it applied to trucks until later. My recollection is that the standards set upon the vehicle manufacturers was stated in Grams per Mile rather than in % or PPM (parts per Million). That means that larger vehicles with larger engines had a more difficult time meeting the standards and the auto makers resorted to Catalytic converters for those cars earlier than was necessary on smaller cars. Trucks were required to meet a different, less stringent standard, a loophole exploited by Chrysler when they brought out with their Little Red Truck that was bought by commuters but was treated like a commercial vehicle emissions-wise. Congress closed that loophole and all small trucks are treated the same as passenger vehicles. Dave From wbeech at flash.net Fri Apr 23 14:16:56 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 14:16:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Bmcu] 57 TR3 Finally on the road and a brake question In-Reply-To: <1379759538.142573.1272049098734.JavaMail.open-xchange@oxusltgw09.schlund.de> References: <1379759538.142573.1272049098734.JavaMail.open-xchange@oxusltgw09.schlund.de> Message-ID: <002201cae321$edb7c4b0$6401a8c0@bboffice> Jeremiah, Congratulations on getting on the road legally and for rescuing an obviously neglected car (41 years is a long time between drives). We more TR3s back on the road! Re your top: My old top is real tight as well, at this time I am still lacking an inch or two of being able to stretch over the support rods. My plan is to wait until a nice hot/sunny day and leave it outside to warm it up and then try to stretch into place. (WAIT, why am I putting the top up on such a nice day?) Not sure what is the proper procedure is, snap the top and slide the rods into place or the other way around, perhaps some other list member can chime in here as the owner manual doesn't really address this. Re your brakes: Fluid can't disappear so you have a leak somewhere that you have yet to discover. Now that you are legal and sure to be using the car more that once every four months I would re-fill and re-bleed everything to get all the sponginess and double-pumping out of the system. Then the first place I would look is the inside of the wheels to see if there is fluid stains on the inside of the tires, this would indicate a leaking wheel cylinder. Check under the dash, on the floor and around the MC area to see if there are and MC leaks. BTW, pulling and re-building the MC is not too bad a chore for an afternoon. All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS 30766 L aka "Tar Baby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jeremiah at curryclan.net Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 12:58 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Bmcu Subject: [Bmcu] 57 TR3 Finally on the road and a brake question ** Check out http://britishmotorclub.org ** After about 5 years I now have my 57 TR3 (TS16441L) legally on the road in Utah!!B The car has been sitting for 41 years, but I have only had it for ~5 yrs.B Fun to drive and little scary for someone who has never driven anything similar.B My daily drivers are a 1992 MR2 turbo and an Audi allroad.B Thanks to all of those who have answered questions along the way and to Mark for running the list. B Here is my question When I went to drive the car the other day, the brake/clutch reservoirs were empty (or at least nearly so).B I had filled them and bled the system about 4 months earlier after replacing the seals in the brakes and the rubber lines.B I did not do anything to the master cylinders, but the pedal seemed to be firm and everything was working fine.B So I added a bunch of fluid and was able to drive, the brakes were a little spongy, and the clutch didn't feel like it was totally disengaging without pumping, but I assume it just needs bled. B My question is, where could the fluid have gone?B my first thought was the master cylinder, but if that was the case, I would have expected one of the baffles in the reservoir to be low.B Should I replace seals in them anyway?, sounds like a lot of work. B On another note, I tried last night to put the soft top on.B I wasn't sure how to make it fit, so I tried attaching the top with the frame not fully erected and then tried to push it erect.B Is that the right way to do it?B I ended up ripping a seam, but I guess that isn't to surprising for a >40 yr old top. B thanks, Jeremiah _______________________________________________ Bmcu at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/bmcu/wbeech at flash.net From pethier at comcast.net Fri Apr 23 14:29:22 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 20:29:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1746868902.17818641272054562648.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I don't think either the small car or foreign car thing answers this. I'm pretty sure my 1975 VW Rabbit had a cat can and a small filler hole. Yes trucks over a certain size had examptions. That is what spawned the "heavy duty half". Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 23 14:41:49 2010 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 13:41:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Air Cleaner Base TR8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <798715.8349.qm@web113311.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Mike would that be a base for one of those lousy K&N filters, or one worth a darn? Frank ________________________________ From: Mike Coe To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, April 23, 2010 11:36:36 AM Subject: [TR] Air Cleaner Base TR8 Could someone please assist supplying the base for the air filter housing of my F.I. TR8. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Apr 23 14:44:51 2010 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 13:44:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 Finally on the road and a brake question In-Reply-To: <1379759538.142573.1272049098734.JavaMail.open-xchange@oxusltgw09.schlund.de> References: <1379759538.142573.1272049098734.JavaMail.open-xchange@oxusltgw09.schlund.de> Message-ID: On 4/23/10, jeremiah at curryclan.net wrote: > ...When I went to drive the car the other day, the brake/clutch reservoirs were > empty (or at least nearly so)... > ...My question is, where could the fluid have gone? my first thought was the > master cylinder, but if that was the case, I would have expected one of the > baffles in the reservoir to be low... If you're thinking that the leak is not in the brake system since both reservoirs were emptied -- be aware that it is not uncommon that a leak that drains one reservoir compartment will eventually drain the other... i.e. the separation that should exist between the clutch and brake portions of that reservoir may not be effective anymore. I would agree that if that much fluid went missing there should have been a puddle somewhere (or better yet a puddle now). In any case, if the reservoirs were empty or nearly so then filling them isn't enough, you will need to bleed the systems to assess if all is well. Geo From pethier at comcast.net Fri Apr 23 14:55:57 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 20:55:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: <1746868902.17818641272054562648.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <849903783.17831301272056157904.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Oh, and about that "heavy duty half" thing: My 1976 Chev shortbox was a plain-jane six with a columm 3-speed manual. Didn't rise to the "heavy duty half" level, so it had a cat can. No headrests yet, though. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- pethier at comcast.net wrote: > From: pethier at comcast.net > To: "Joe Curry" > Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 3:29:22 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) > > I don't think either the small car or foreign car thing answers this. > I'm pretty sure my 1975 VW Rabbit had a cat can and a small filler > hole. > > Yes trucks over a certain size had examptions. That is what spawned > the "heavy duty half". > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" > 1979 Caterham Super Seven > 2004 Suburban 8.1 > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org > http://www.mnautox.com > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 23 15:18:30 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 14:18:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 Finally on the road and a brake question In-Reply-To: <1379759538.142573.1272049098734.JavaMail.open-xchange@oxusltgw09.schlund.de> References: <1379759538.142573.1272049098734.JavaMail.open-xchange@oxusltgw09.schlund.de> Message-ID: <015f01cae32a$86cdb440$94691cc0$@rr.com> > On another note, I tried last night to put the soft top on.B I wasn't > sure how > to make it fit, so I tried attaching the top with the frame not fully > erected > and then tried to push it erect.B Is that the right way to do it? That's the way I always did mine, and it worked for me (before I moved to SoCA and quit using a top ). But don't put too much force into it, or as you've discovered, something may break. The vinyl tends to shrink with both time and cold; then gradually stretch back out with heat and/or force applied. One trick that helps a lot in cold weather is to unfasten the rearmost bow from the webbing and leave it loose. Then you can leave that bow folded forward while you get everything else into place, which will leave the top a bit loose. Once you are inside the car, reach over your head and push the bow back, to pull the top tight. As you drive and the top stretches, push the bow back some more. You must have at least two leaks somewhere, for the reservoir to be entirely dry. One leak might well be between the reservoir halves and so not obvious without the other leak in either the clutch or the brakes. If you can't find any traces of leaks elsewhere, you might try pulling the rear drums and checking inside the boots for the wheel cylinders. Sometimes a slow leak there can go overlooked otherwise. BTW, congratulations on getting back on the road! I drove TS13571L to work today, which always makes the day go better. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 23 15:29:38 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 14:29:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Identifying Spitfire Cylinder head # TKC 2748( Now another Head and Block) In-Reply-To: <7A33FA8B1E064C038964FF117F5D2080@joepentiumnew> References: <173743165.17743871272044602561.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1067590468.17746901272044933377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <7A33FA8B1E064C038964FF117F5D2080@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <016001cae32c$14997d30$3dcc7790$@rr.com> > Maybe there was an exclusion for "Furin" cars. Mt 75 Vette I bought > new had that equipment. As I (vaguely) recall, there were a few cars that initially got temporary exemptions. But the whole thing was, as I think someone already mentioned, based on actual tailpipe emissions. There was no requirement for a catalyst as such, it was up to the car makers to meet the tailpipe requirements in whatever fashion they could. Ditto for air injection (smog pumps), EGR and so on. And as pointed out, the tailpipe standards were different for different vehicle classes. Leaded fuel continued to be readily available on the west coast until well into the 80's. Like many others, I bashed out the restriction so I could burn cheaper leaded fuel, then eventually had to replace the fill pipe once the restriction became part of the biannual smog check. Oddly enough, the leaded fuel never did poison my cat so bad that it wouldn't pass the test ... when the car finally did flunk years later, we discovered that there were no pellets left in the converter at all! The screens had rotted away and the pellets must've rolled out the tailpipe (or were laying in the muffler). -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 23 15:39:36 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 14:39:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Toggle Switch In-Reply-To: References: <20100423112905.352F5187678@autox.team.net> <0d8c01cae2f4$e72d1730$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <016101cae32d$78942a50$69bc7ef0$@rr.com> > As noted, those headlamp switches were used in several applications > (including 2-speed wipers I think) so save the old knob and search by > the numbers or perhaps the rear view. Note however, that there is at least one other switch that looks very similar, but has different internal logic. In fact, if anyone happens to find a Lucas 39257 switch (Stanpart 151243), I will be glad to trade a working 34317 (or equivalent) for it. AFAIK, the 39257 was used only on air conditioned Stags. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 23 15:42:21 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 14:42:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 Finally on the road and a brake question In-Reply-To: <015f01cae32a$86cdb440$94691cc0$@rr.com> References: <1379759538.142573.1272049098734.JavaMail.open-xchange@oxusltgw09.schlund.de> <015f01cae32a$86cdb440$94691cc0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <016b01cae32d$dd5921c0$980b6540$@rr.com> > One trick that helps a lot in cold weather is to unfasten the rearmost > bow > from the webbing and leave it loose. Forgot to mention, once you've pushed the rear bow into position under the installed top, it will stay there by friction. -- Randall From amfoto1 at aol.com Thu Apr 22 18:39:28 2010 From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 20:39:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] K&N Filters In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCB09491252CD5-20D8-52B5@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> I can't believe this thread's still running! Hmmmm. I wonder what would have happened if a paper filter cartridge were soaked under the same circumstances! On the other hand, the paper filters I use my Starbucks Barrista coffee maker uses seem to hold up pretty well getting wet... And I use the cheap generic ones! Of course, I only use them once.... Unless I run out and am really, really desperate for some caffeine. I've had K&N on a number of cars and I agree completely with Justin's comments. You have to keep them clean... They may be "permanent" filters, but that doesn't mean "maintenance free" by any means. They probably need attention on about the same intervals as a stock paper filter, ideally. It's pretty amazing what comes out of one of those filters when you wash it. But in all the years I've been using and maintaining them, I've never seen any indication that washing them with water and pretty strong detergents were degrading the fabric of the filter in any way. You'd think if road splash could cause a filter to disintegrate, then a half hour in the kitchen sink with really hot water and strong soap would really destroy it. Not that I'm doubting the story at all... Hey it's possible. I am trying to form a mental picture of someone putting a Weber triple downdraft carb under a microscope, though. ;-) As to air flow, well any filter is going to restrict it to some extent. On the other hand, I've read and been told that sidedraft Webers, which I've got on my TR4, as well as the similar downdraft models will work best in "quiet air", i.e. no ram effects and with minimized turbulence around the entry to the throats of the carbs. A set of nice, oversize K&N can help provide that. A sock over an air horn probably doesn't. I really don't know if the same is true with either the SU or ZS that many of our cars use, but would think it's safer to assume so. I also use two sets of K&N per car. One kept clean and ready to go, the other installed in the car at any given time. That's because whenever you clean a K&N filter it takes quite a while to dry completely. You really shouldn't try to force dry it by putting it in a low temp oven or using a heat gun on it. Too much heat can cause the cloth to shrink, warping the filter or even causing the cloth to tear. I've used a hair dryer on low heat without any problem, but it still takes quite a while. And, once it's dry you should oil it very sparingly and give the oil some time to wick into all the nooks and crannies evenly. It's easiest just to have one ready to pop in the car, then clean the dirty one that was removed the next time the kitchen sink is free of dirty dishes. The only thing I'd add to Justin's comments is that the main issue I've seen with K&N is over-oiling them. Some people think if a little bit is good, then a lot more is bound to be way better. Too much oil on the filter will definitely restrict air flow. It's equally important to use a very light oil, such as K&N sells for the purpose (dyed red so you can see that the filter is evenly oiled). Too heavy an oil would undoubtedly cause problems, too. At the very least, K&N have got to be one heck of a lot better than the reusable, "oily coarse steel wool" filters that came stock on a '60s era VW bug I had, and for that matter I think might have been original on my TR4 (by the time I bought it, it had disintegrating foam filters on Hitachi SU/240Z carbs). No filter that allows air to flow reasonably freely is ever going to stop the smallest micro-particles completely. I'll keep using K&N... My TR4 - when it's running - is a fair weather car, anyway. The K&N in my Land Rover for the past 60,000 miles has managed to not disintegrated through all kinds of rain, snow and slop. But I frankly don't know that it's ever gotten particularly wet, since it's housed inside a pretty well weather sealed box. But, paper filters are darned easy, too. Just pop in a new one every so often... and send the old one off to the land fill (today is Earth Day, after all). Alan Myers San Jose, California amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT17602L http://www.triumphowners.com/640 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 23 16:20:18 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 15:20:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] K&N Filters In-Reply-To: <8CCB09491252CD5-20D8-52B5@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCB09491252CD5-20D8-52B5@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <017801cae333$28c1fec0$7a45fc40$@rr.com> > Hmmmm. I wonder what would have happened if a paper filter cartridge > were > soaked under the same circumstances! BTDT. Filter swelled up and got more restrictive, but didn't seem to dump anything into the engine (not even the water, except perhaps as vapor). I poured the water out of the outer housing and reinstalled the filter, which seemed to work fine after it dried out again. Ditto snow. It's actually kind of fun driving under water, but since they improved the storm drains around here, I don't get to do it as much anymore. Plus my current "LBC support vehicle" doesn't run nearly as well with the ignition soaked as that old Chevy with the MSD6 did. -- Randall From jeremiah at curryclan.net Fri Apr 23 20:19:13 2010 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 20:19:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] K&N Filters In-Reply-To: <8CCB09491252CD5-20D8-52B5@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCB09491252CD5-20D8-52B5@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <07BF21738BFC428F9306D47FCC24D38D@maximum7> Speaking of oily coarse steel wool oil filters. That is what I am currently running on my TR3. Only other option I have seen is K&N. Are the originals that bad? I guess that is what the car run for the first 75,000 miles of it's life before I got it. Any suggestions of what else to get or where to get it? Thanks, Jeremiah -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Myers Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 6:39 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] K&N Filters At the very least, K&N have got to be one heck of a lot better than the reusable, "oily coarse steel wool" filters that came stock on a '60s era VW bug I had, and for that matter I think might have been original on my TR4 (by the time I bought it, it had disintegrating foam filters on Hitachi SU/240Z carbs). No filter that allows air to flow reasonably freely is ever going to stop the smallest micro-particles completely. I'll keep using K&N... My TR4 - when it's running - is a fair weather car, anyway. The K&N in my Land Rover for the past 60,000 miles has managed to not disintegrated through all kinds of rain, snow and slop. But I frankly don't know that it's ever gotten particularly wet, since it's housed inside a pretty well weather sealed box. But, paper filters are darned easy, too. Just pop in a new one every so often... and send the old one off to the land fill (today is Earth Day, after all). Alan Myers San Jose, California amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT17602L http://www.triumphowners.com/640 _______________________________________________ From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Apr 24 08:29:47 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 14:29:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] K&N Filters In-Reply-To: <07BF21738BFC428F9306D47FCC24D38D@maximum7> Message-ID: <1669608331.21332521272119387787.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> As a daily driver I'm all about longevity, minimizing maintenance, and reliability. I get plenty of performance from the stock options, which--along with the thrill of negotiating curves when the top is down--is rather the metaphor for a very happy marriage, huh? I went to a great deal of trouble restoring the original steel canisters, including putting on the decals. Soaked them in oil like I was supposed to, all that. Ran them for a few thousand miles. However, I live at the end of a 300 yard dirt driveway that kicks up dust every time I pass over. First time I took the canisters off, I wiped a thin layer of grime from the ports. Switched immediately to paper from either Moss or TRF. With synthetic oil and cleaner combustion, I'm hoping to surpass the original milage ratings for these engines by quite a bit. Just my opinion. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sat Apr 24 17:16:44 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:16:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] K N AGAIN.........LOL Message-ID: <232480.49602.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Just purchased K and N's for my tr-6 and then found the research on the various products! I plan on using them but feel that there is another angle to the question which is engine wear. This is also probably much harder to research. How much is engine life shortened or lengthened by allowing various amounts of particles into the engine from the various elements? Of course that depends on the "particles" size, structure of the particles ect. My engine was overhauled at around 93,000 miles (supposed miles). Would various elements had increased the life? By how much? Shortened the life? By how much? Of course driving style, conditions and climate also affect engine life. How much crap has to be sucked into an engine to significantly shorten its life? How much of an engines wear comes from intake dirt? There are so many variables to engine wear. Another issue is how much "seat in the pants" feel can a person really feel between the various elements? Which brings me to the question of why I spent more for my filters.lol I'm not sure..............responding to marketing is one reason. I'm hoping to feel or hear a differance (love to hear that "sucking" on acceleration lol) but am not confident I'll win a race against a common econobox because of them. lolol gary n From mdporter at dfn.com Sat Apr 24 17:52:40 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:52:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] K N AGAIN.........LOL In-Reply-To: <232480.49602.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <232480.49602.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BD38448.1050603@dfn.com> Gary Nafziger wrote: > Just purchased K and N's for my tr-6 and then found the research on the > various products! I plan on using them but feel that there is another angle > to the question which is engine wear. This is also probably much harder to > research. How much is engine life shortened or lengthened by allowing various > amounts of particles into the engine from the various elements? Of course > that depends on the "particles" size, structure of the particles ect. > My GT6 had them installed when I bought it. It was pumping oil at a rate of about 50-75 mi/qt, so, because I horribly busy at work and time was short, I decided to do an emergency re-ring job over the upcoming long Labor Day weekend. I was a little astonished at the internal condition. Every engine I've torn down (and that's a _lot_ of `em over the years) had at least some small vestige of cylinder honing left in the cylinders, even if the hone marks could only be seen and couldn't be felt. This engine looked like it had been running with lapping paste instead of oil. Not a sign of hone marks in any of the cylinders. The oil wasn't good, either, because the crank journals weren't pretty to look at, so it could easily have been a combination of things--lack of oil changes, improper or inadequate servicing of the K&N filters, who knows? (But, usually, really dirty oil will produce vertical scoring in the cylinders because of hard particles stuck in the rings, more than general wear.) Without knowing the history of the car, it was impossible to know for sure, but, at the first opportunity, the filters came off and paper ones went on (later, washable foam filters). All that was thirteen years ago. But, that's what happens when too much dirt gets into the cylinders.... Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From cofrog at q.com Sat Apr 24 18:05:21 2010 From: cofrog at q.com (Dan Forgey) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 00:05:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] K N AGAIN.........LOL In-Reply-To: <232480.49602.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <232480.49602.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: In addition....... The area where one lives should be considered. Here in Denver it's awfully dusty year around. Thus I run the cardboard stock filters on my street TR4. Due to the altitude here the power difference between the K and Ns and stock probably would be marginal. With some exceptions I would think most areas west of the Big Muddy would have more crap in the air that need filtering as opposed to those in the east. My TR4A racer presents a whole different set of problems. Many folks east of here tend to run velocity stacks w/o filters. Most of the race courses in the west have a very high amount of ambient dirt in the air and even more if you fall off the road as there is little to no grass off course. I have some sock filters over my velocity stacks that I sprayed with K and N oil but would guess that I ingest more dirt than I would like. Probably an air box with filter would be an improvement but that's for another day. Dan Forgey > Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:16:44 -0700 > From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] K N AGAIN.........LOL > > Just purchased K and N's for my tr-6 and then found the research on the > various products! I plan on using them but feel that there is another angle > to the question which is engine wear. This is also probably much harder to > research. How much is engine life shortened or lengthened by allowing various > amounts of particles into the engine from the various elements? Of course > that depends on the "particles" size, structure of the particles ect. > > My > engine was overhauled at around 93,000 miles (supposed miles). Would various > elements had increased the life? By how much? Shortened the life? By how > much? Of course driving style, conditions and climate also affect engine > life. How much crap has to be sucked into an engine to significantly shorten > its life? How much of an engines wear comes from intake dirt? There are so > many variables to engine wear. > > Another issue is how much "seat in the pants" > feel can a person really feel between the various elements? Which brings me > to the question of why I spent more for my filters.lol I'm not > sure..............responding to marketing is one reason. I'm hoping to feel > or hear a differance (love to hear that "sucking" on acceleration lol) but am > not confident I'll win a race against a common econobox because of them. lolol > gary n > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cofrog at q.com From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Sat Apr 24 19:00:40 2010 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 18:00:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] K N AGAIN.........LOL In-Reply-To: References: <232480.49602.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cae412$ba56dec0$2f049c40$@rr.com> I need to clean my K&N filters, but have a hard time parting with a crap-load of money that K&N wants. Will mineral spirits and motor oil work? Johnnie > I sprayed with K and N oil From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Apr 24 20:22:45 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:22:45 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?b?SyBOIEFHQUlOLi4uLi4uLi4uTE9M?= Message-ID: <20100425022245.A17B3187652@autox.team.net> Use your dishwasher, then any olive oil you have left from dinner. Works a treat. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "John & Pat Donnelly" Date: Sat, Apr 24, 2010 20:00 Subject: [TR] K N AGAIN.........LOL To: "'Dan Forgey'" , "'triumph'" I need to clean my K&N filters, but have a hard time parting with a crap-load of money that K&N wants. Will mineral spirits and motor oil work? Johnnie > I sprayed with K and N oil _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Apr 25 12:10:38 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 14:10:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear Fenders Message-ID: <201004251410.38750.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hi, I am at the point of trying to fit my fiberglass fenders to my 72 and they just dont fit.. And due to their rigid nature there is just no way I can make them fit. These were supplied by a guy in California for a modest price but more for shipping but I cant use them. So does anyone here on the list have a SET for a 72 in decent shape for sale? They dont have to be perfect but I would hope for the best. I had many chances over the past 1.5 years to get a set on Ebay but I figured I could get the fiber glass ones to fit. If anyone knows of a set or someone who has a set please contact me at this email or if you need a phone # please ask and I will forward that #. I am in the 13502 zip code but I will pay for shipping. Thanks ALOT. Bob From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Apr 25 13:57:31 2010 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 15:57:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need the email of Ted at TSI Automotive Message-ID: <6F87E6C9DC5C493B9B93EFBA282B8061@DaveLaptop> Hi List, Does anybody have Ted's email from TSI Automotive and could you please forward it to me. I was trying to contact him and it looks like his website is down. Thanks, Dave Connitt From triumph.driver at gmail.com Sun Apr 25 14:15:11 2010 From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:15:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need the email of Ted at TSI Automotive In-Reply-To: <6F87E6C9DC5C493B9B93EFBA282B8061@DaveLaptop> References: <6F87E6C9DC5C493B9B93EFBA282B8061@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <0D9CF02CF1554E3F8F6924425F6D5C68@chuck> Dave, tedtsimx at bright.net Chuck Xenia, OH -----Original Message----- From: On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 3:58 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Need the email of Ted at TSI Automotive Hi List, Does anybody have Ted's email from TSI Automotive and could you please forward it to me. I was trying to contact him and it looks like his website is down. Thanks, Dave Connitt From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Apr 25 16:20:02 2010 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:20:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Jorge Gas Tank Tip In-Reply-To: <1173253252.21666111272233893065.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <805094000.21666711272234002131.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> About 5 years ago, I purchased a TR3A gas tank from Jorge something-or-other in Southern California. Don't get me wrong. I love the tank. What was peculiar, today when I was re-fabricating an adapter for a modern sending unit, I took the opportunity to inspect the inside of the tank. All was well...except for one little thing. A piece of plastic paper, about 4 inches by two, was free floating at the bottom of the tank. It had some kind of manufacturer's data on it. I can only assume that it came with the metal, and Jorge forgot to remove it before making the tank. I have a sneaky feeling that it was floating around and sometimes obstructing the outlet, causing the random rough running I'd been experiencing lately, which I thought I'd cured with something else but hadn't. Spent the day groveling under the car today doing whatnot minor improvements, like de-greasing the engine and taking the minor kink out of the rubber hose feeding the electric fuel pump. Got filthy dirty and a couple of bloody nicks. Wondered to myself, why the hell do we enjoy doing that? ...I guess maybe it's that it makes the beer taste better when it's done? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From brad.kahler at 141.com Sun Apr 25 16:51:24 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 18:51:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR7 steering wheel in a TR4 Message-ID: List, Can a TR7 steering wheel be used on a TR4 style steering column? I'm looking for an alternative to the 16" steering wheel that the TR4 came with. Thanks, Brad From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Apr 25 17:03:46 2010 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:03:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] blanking plate Message-ID: <822735.51325.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I have a blanking plate that came with my car. But it looks like it was home made.....simply a piece of sturdy metal with two holes drilled for the bolts. Make up a gasket from gasket material and that should work. gary n. From brad.kahler at 141.com Sun Apr 25 19:03:35 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 21:03:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mark Joslyn's Triumph estate auction Message-ID: Listers, Just thought I would write a brief report about the Mark Joslyn estate auction we attended on Saturday. If you're curious about Mark you can find some info here http://www.wvbscc.org/citoa/markjoslyn/ We found out about the auction from a note posted to the list. Susan saw it and felt we should go check things out. For those of you who know us you probably wouldn't be surprised to know we took a trailer with us, "just in case"! 13 of his cars were ultimately auctioned off Saturday including a nice 1949 2000 roadster that needed some work, a pretty decent TR6, a couple of 63 TR4s, some Sport 6s, couple of GT6s and a few parts/project cars. Along with the vehicles being auctioned was his collection of toys, books, manuals, parts and you name it. Mark was quite the collector! Susan and I were amazed at some of the prices the toys and parts were bringing. There were a lot of nice goodies there that interested a whole lot of people world wide. The auction was also carried live via the internet and there was someone biding from New Zealand that was winning an awful lot of bids. While at the auction we met Mark's two brothers Jayd and Randy. It was very enjoyable talking with both of them along with several of Mark's friends. I learned a lot about Mark and after looking at one of his pictures online I'm sure I had seem him at a VTR convention or two. While at the auction we bid on and won one of the 1963 TR4s. The car is in pretty darn good condition and is sporting a brand new (never ran) engine built by Jack Wheeler. The car needs carburetors (lost after Mark's passing), radiator rebuilt and some minor odds and ends. The car had been at the service shop since 2002 while Mark had the engine out for rebuilding and various other things being taken care of. The engine actually went back into the car for the first time two weeks ago. Needless to say I'm looking forward to the first drive :) For those of you who knew Mark and his cars if you have any remembrances or know any of the history of his 63 TR4 with the red racing stripe I would be interesting in hearing about it. Bottom line is I hope Mark realizes his TR4 is in good hands and will be driven regularly. Brad From brad.kahler at 141.com Sun Apr 25 19:57:40 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 21:57:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 brake booster in a TR4 Message-ID: On the TR4 we recently purchased from Mark's estate it had a TR6 brake booster assembly mounted with the pressure differential valve install. The installation is complete with the exception of the booster hose running from the booster to the intake manifold. The intake was missing from the car when we purchased it so I'm not sure if it was modified or was a stock Triumph item. The brake booster hose fitting is 3/8" diameter. The long branch intake manifold that I plan on using with the HS6 carburetors has a 1/2" nipple on it that I'm guessing was originally used for emissions. Would this port work in conjunction with a proper adapter and check valve for operating the brake booster? Thanks, Brad From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 25 20:23:20 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:23:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 brake booster in a TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <11c601cae4e7$705f1be0$0301a8c0@randall> > Would this port work in > conjunction with a proper adapter and check valve for operating the > brake booster? Should be just what's needed. You might check the booster, though, I think they had the check valve incorporated into the inlet fitting. Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Apr 26 06:25:33 2010 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 08:25:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear Fenders In-Reply-To: <201004251410.38750.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201004251410.38750.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Hi Bob, I put a set of Fiberglass fenders on my TR4 quite a few years ago and had major issues - the darn things just did not fit. From what I understand it's rare to find a fiberglass set that fits. I cut the fenders into a few pieces - based on what sections fit where - and where I felt I could fiberglass them back together in a reasonably strong manner. I feathered the edges back an inch or so on each piece and bolted all the pieces together - reached in from behind - where I could - and put some fiberglass to hold them together. The idea here for me was to minimize any stressing of the fiberglass - I think that helps to reduce the amount of crazing or surface finish cracking as the years go by. >From there it was more fiberglass - a bit of sanding on the front side - I dished out about 1 inch wide and 1/16 inch deep with my grinding wheel at an angle and laid a strip of fiberglass on the front edge as well. From there it was normal bondo and sanding. It's been 15 years - no cracks (were my repairs were anyway) - and I can't tell where the repairs were (from the outside - anyway) If you go this route - wear a mask while you work - that fiberglass is nasty stuff. Chris From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Mon Apr 26 13:15:13 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 15:15:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <1c3fd.73f02e6b.38fc773c@cs.com> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313460C@CMS01.winhosting.local> I have been doing a little engine bay cleanup on my 72 TR6. Now I am trying to understand the evaporation setup. I have a triple Stromberg setup with the nice piping kit to keep all the suction on the crankcase working. I know how rottenly the car idles with nothing blocking the pipe if the valve cover is off, so I have a nice little plug I use to block the pipe when running the engine and valve adjusting. So, I took off the canister to POR the brackets and clean up. I think I had always assumed that the thing had a one-way valve at the bottom to stop the vacuum from being reduced. Instead it seems that I can suck or blow on the pipe quite freely. There only seems to be a white plastic insert in the top port leading to the carb pipe that clearly restricts flow diameter down to about 1/8" but is straight-through other than that. Seems strange. Is this correct, or is there some piece missing that is supposed to make this a one-way flow? I had always assumed that the suction would pull on the crankcase and the gas tank, except when stopped. Then I assumed that vapour pressure would push gassy fumes out through the bottom of the canister via the charcoal pack. But if there is no one-way valve, then it seems the engine is just sucking in filtered air while running. What am I missing? Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Apr 26 14:19:25 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 14:19:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313460C@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313460C@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: Mark, If you have a Bentley manual you can check out the flow diagram for better understanding of the flow pattern. If memory serves it will show that the carbs are pulling the vapors from the the canister and burning them when the engine is running. The canister "collects" the vapors when the car isn't running so they are not vented to the atmosphere....the whole idea was to reduce those types of fugitive emissions from the gas tank. The bottom of the canister is open so clean air can cleanse the charcoal of the vapors. So yes you are pulling in what you might call "filtered air" while running but it is laden with the vapors from the charcoal. I had those type of carbs but replaced them with 1971 carbs from my rust bucket TR6. I put the 72 carbs on the rust bucket but it wouldn't run right without the hoses/canister hooked up so my experience is that the carbs are engineered for that specific flow. Also I remember a small brass insert with a small hole in one of the hoses?? that limited the flow but I don't have the carbs anymore to look at them. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Apr 26, 2010, at 1:15 PM, Mark Hooper wrote: > I have been doing a little engine bay cleanup on my 72 TR6. Now I am > trying to > understand the evaporation setup. > > I have a triple Stromberg setup with the nice piping kit to keep all > the > suction on the crankcase working. I know how rottenly the car idles > with > nothing blocking the pipe if the valve cover is off, so I have a > nice little > plug I use to block the pipe when running the engine and valve > adjusting. > > So, I took off the canister to POR the brackets and clean up. I > think I had > always assumed that the thing had a one-way valve at the bottom to > stop the > vacuum from being reduced. Instead it seems that I can suck or blow > on the > pipe quite freely. There only seems to be a white plastic insert in > the top > port leading to the carb pipe that clearly restricts flow diameter > down to > about 1/8" but is straight-through other than that. Seems strange. > Is this > correct, or is there some piece missing that is supposed to make > this a > one-way flow? > > I had always assumed that the suction would pull on the crankcase > and the gas > tank, except when stopped. Then I assumed that vapour pressure would > push > gassy fumes out through the bottom of the canister via the charcoal > pack. But > if there is no one-way valve, then it seems the engine is just > sucking in > filtered air while running. What am I missing? > > Mark Hooper > 1972 TR6 > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Apr 26 15:00:17 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 17:00:17 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question Message-ID: <2f896.4169f249.390758e1@cs.com> In a message dated 4/26/2010 2:25:50 PM Central Daylight Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: > I had always assumed that the suction would pull on the crankcase and the > gas > tank, except when stopped. Then I assumed that vapour pressure would push > gassy fumes out through the bottom of the canister via the charcoal pack. > But > if there is no one-way valve, then it seems the engine is just sucking in > filtered air while running. What am I missing? > The fresh air filters though the charcoal scavenging the absorbed gas fumes while the engine is running. This will keep the charcoal from saturating and not being able to catch gas fumes while the engine is off. Cheers Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 26 15:27:33 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 14:27:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313460C@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <1c3fd.73f02e6b.38fc773c@cs.com> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313460C@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <063401cae587$49512200$dbf36600$@rr.com> > Is this correct, or is there some piece missing that is supposed to make this a > one-way flow? Yup, that is exactly correct. The main function of the carbon canister is to absorb and hold the gas fumes while the engine is not running. In order for that to work, there has to be flow from the carb bowl vents (and fuel tank vent) into the canister. Then once the engine is running, fresh air is constantly pulled through the canister to purge fuel from the carbon and leave it ready for the next cycle. The vacuum connection is only to the "constant depression" part of the carb (in front of the throttle plates), so normally much less than manifold vacuum. > I had always assumed that the suction would pull on the crankcase and > the gas tank, It's only a very small suction at best, since the whole system is open to the air through the carbon canister. But there is some, because the canister itself (and the lines to it) presents some restriction to flow. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 26 18:55:03 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 17:55:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cast iron welding and repair information Message-ID: <068801cae5a4$4aafc170$e00f4450$@rr.com> This link was posted on another list, I thought it might be of general interest. http://www.locknstitch.com/CastIronWelding.htm -- Randall From mdporter at dfn.com Mon Apr 26 19:32:59 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 19:32:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cast iron welding and repair information In-Reply-To: <068801cae5a4$4aafc170$e00f4450$@rr.com> References: <068801cae5a4$4aafc170$e00f4450$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4BD63ECB.60600@dfn.com> Randall wrote: > This link was posted on another list, I thought it might be of general > interest. > > http://www.locknstitch.com/CastIronWelding.htm > > Yeah, from what I can see on the site, they are trying to establish best practice. But, in practical experience, I've seen cast-iron repairs were adequate for the intended use. An old Allis-Chalmers four-cylinder block crack repaired with a half-assed welding job that was perfectly satisfactory for an engine that didn't exceed 1300 rpm. A very expensive Caterpillar six-cylinder block that was repaired with the best Eutectic cast-iron arc rod available, done by a good welder and the repair was indistinguishable from the original after stress relief, except for the color of the repair. I myself arc-welded up a crack in a `58 Mercedes 220S exhaust manifold when no parts were available at reasonable cost that turned out to be quite serviceable. I think stress relief is the key to most good cast-iron repairs, since even the best available rods are pretty hard compared to the base material, and arc-welding contributes to the brittleness of the interstice between cast material and the repair material because of the high heat involved and the air-cooling of the exposed material, which can make for some weird stresses. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From mlang99 at comcast.net Mon Apr 26 21:25:23 2010 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 20:25:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear Fenders In-Reply-To: <201004251410.38750.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201004251410.38750.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <4BD65923.3050004@comcast.net> I just ran across this on Craigslist. I have no TR6 experience and don't know what year but this may be worth a look. Mike Bob wrote: > Hi, > > I am at the point of trying to fit my fiberglass fenders to my 72 and they just > dont fit.. And due to their rigid nature there is just no way I can make them > fit. > > These were supplied by a guy in California for a modest price but more for > shipping but I cant use them. > > So does anyone here on the list have a SET for a 72 in decent shape for sale? > > They dont have to be perfect but I would hope for the best. > > I had many chances over the past 1.5 years to get a set on Ebay but I figured I > could get the fiber glass ones to fit. > > If anyone knows of a set or someone who has a set please contact me at this > email or if you need a phone # please ask and I will forward that #. > > I am in the 13502 zip code but I will pay for shipping. > > Thanks ALOT. > > Bob From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com Tue Apr 27 08:12:26 2010 From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 10:12:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inlet rigid fuel line to fuel pump 66 TR4A Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C2425271DEC3CEB@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM> I'm looking to replace the inlet rigid fuel line which goes into the inlet side of the fuel pump.. I am getting a slow leak by the compression fitting I suspect. When researching to source a replacement with the usual suspects I see it is no longer available. Anybody aware where I could get this part. In researching the archives I see others have had a problem with length of the compression beads? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you Peter 201.571.8303 551.427.1178 From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Apr 27 09:04:13 2010 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 11:04:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - Message-ID: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> I am going to be rebuilding and replacing my wifes 1296 Spitfire with a 1500 lump, and since I will be pulling the engine, I was also considering fixing the problem I have had since the initial restoration of the car about 6 years ago, and that is with the synchros in the transmission. This transmission is a single rail 1975 overdrive box, and at the time I had replaced all the synchros with new. They have never been right, grinding in almost every gear unless you allow a second or two between shifts, or double clutch. Forget about fast shifting - I was really disappointed with the initial rebuild, and as such am hesitant to do it all over again, especially since I have heard similar stories with problem replacement synchros  I am not about to buy new synchros and go through all the work to replace them, only to have the same problem - Has the bad synchro problem been fixed or are they all still junk?? -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From spitlist at cox.net Tue Apr 27 10:11:29 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 09:11:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - In-Reply-To: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> References: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <1DD07C9E5C5B4C4DB7A19B7AB85D4D59@joepentiumnew> Barry, What I have heard (and can't say from personal experience) is that the new synchro rings you can buy these days are not even close to being as good as the original ones. If that is indeed the case, I would be looking for some NOS ones. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 8:04 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - I am going to be rebuilding and replacing my wifes 1296 Spitfire with a 1500 lump, and since I will be pulling the engine, I was also considering fixing the problem I have had since the initial restoration of the car about 6 years ago, and that is with the synchros in the transmission. This transmission is a single rail 1975 overdrive box, and at the time I had replaced all the synchros with new. They have never been right, grinding in almost every gear unless you allow a second or two between shifts, or double clutch. Forget about fast shifting - I was really disappointed with the initial rebuild, and as such am hesitant to do it all over again, especially since I have heard similar stories with problem replacement synchros  I am not about to buy new synchros and go through all the work to replace them, only to have the same problem - Has the bad synchro problem been fixed or are they all still junk?? -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/spitlist at cox.net From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Apr 27 10:36:09 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 16:36:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - In-Reply-To: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <1697995544.19973081272386169575.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Mostly still junk. I sourced my last ones from J K Jackson in Tallahassee, FL. Phone number 850-575-9372. He seems to get parts that only the racers know about. I've got them in my "new 3" and so far so good. Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag Subject: [TR] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Apr 27 10:38:23 2010 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 16:38:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Road Atlanta and the Mitty In-Reply-To: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <844990661.19974961272386303848.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> The Mitty vintage race is this weekend at Road Atlanta..Anyone going besides me? My two neighbors and I went last year in a motor home and had a blast. We'll be parked in the same place. Looking forward to it and seeing friends. Let me know. Tom From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Apr 27 10:51:29 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 12:51:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [Spits] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - Message-ID: <20100427125129.ASO43026@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Jim Holmgren wrote: > My rebuilt OD transmission (rebuilt by a well-know shop) > has the 'new' synchros. 2nd to 3rd cannot be done quickly > without some major grindage. A few years ago I got a rebuilt Spitfire 3-rail gearbox from one of the "well-known shops" and it had crunching problems. And before that I got a rebuilt unit from Spitbits for the GT6 after its geabox imploded on the road. It too had crunching problems. Winter before this last I tore down the GT6 box in search for a whine (didn't find it but I think I know why, not too worried yet) and two of the synchros looked worn as measured by the clearance. I replaced them with new parts. The new parts showed much more clearance, and now it shifts smoothly with no crunching. I suspect that the rebuilders (different houses in different parts of the world, I would imagine) try to save money by re-using parts that look okay. They just hazve a loose definition of what is still okay. Jim Muller From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 27 11:19:11 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 10:19:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - In-Reply-To: <1697995544.19973081272386169575.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> <1697995544.19973081272386169575.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <083c01cae62d$c173f7c0$445be740$@rr.com> TRF seems to have sorted the problem with the rings for the TR2-6. I bought some from them a few years ago, and they seem to work fine. But I have no idea about the smaller rings used on Spit & GT6. Something else to be aware of, the force required to move the shift ring away from the center of the hub is important to synchro operation. Most people apparently don't check or adjust it; but that is where the force to operate the synchros comes from. I've never torn apart a gearbox that didn't need new springs and/or more shims. -- Randall From dmericas at austin.rr.com Tue Apr 27 11:47:49 2010 From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (Dean Mericas) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 12:47:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inlet rigid fuel line to fuel pump 66 TR4A In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I went through this many years ago. IIRC, the inlet pipe is standard size tubing, but the compression fitting is about twice the length of what you can find at your local hardware store. A kind lister from UK recognized it as a British market gas plumbing part and sent me a few of them. Before installation, they look like short sections of copper tubing that just fit over the fuel line. Contact me off line and I'll see if I have spares in the shop. Dean Mericas (dmericas at austin.rr.com) Austin, TX 1965 TR4 -----Original Message----- > Subject: [TR] Inlet rigid fuel line to fuel pump 66 TR4A > > I'm looking to replace the inlet rigid fuel line which goes into the inlet > side of the fuel pump.. I am getting a slow leak by the compression fitting I > suspect. When researching to source a replacement with the usual suspects I > see it is no longer available. Anybody aware where I could get this part. In > researching the archives I see others have had a problem with length of the > compression beads? > > Any help would be appreciated. > > Thank you > > Peter > 201.571.8303 > 551.427.1178 > ------------------------------ From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Tue Apr 27 11:50:09 2010 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 13:50:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inlet rigid fuel line to fuel pump 66 TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: First you might try replacing the compression olive, if you can get the old one off without damaging the pipe. Otherwise the inlet is 5/16" pipe and standard stuff at the auto store. The outlet pipe is the special one that is hard to find. > Subject: [TR] Inlet rigid fuel line to fuel pump 66 TR4A > > > I'm looking to replace the inlet rigid fuel line which goes into > the inlet > side of the fuel pump.. I am getting a slow leak by the compression > fitting I > suspect. When researching to source a replacement with the usual > suspects I > see it is no longer available. Anybody aware where I could get this > part. In > researching the archives I see others have had a problem with > length of the > compression beads? > > Any help would be appreciated. > > Thank you > > Peter From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Tue Apr 27 14:29:39 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 16:29:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <063401cae587$49512200$dbf36600$@rr.com> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134624@CMS01.winhosting.local> Hi Randall: Why does this have such a huge impact on the engine (especially idle) when the pipe to the valve cover is unplugged? It really seems to unbalance things a lot. The carbs are newly rebuilt with only less than 1000 miles on them, so I don't think anything is jammed open etc. Mark -----Original Message----- From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: April 26, 2010 5:28 PM To: Mark Hooper; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question > Is this correct, or is there some piece missing that is supposed to make this a > one-way flow? Yup, that is exactly correct. The main function of the carbon canister is to absorb and hold the gas fumes while the engine is not running. In order for that to work, there has to be flow from the carb bowl vents (and fuel tank vent) into the canister. Then once the engine is running, fresh air is constantly pulled through the canister to purge fuel from the carbon and leave it ready for the next cycle. The vacuum connection is only to the "constant depression" part of the carb (in front of the throttle plates), so normally much less than manifold vacuum. > I had always assumed that the suction would pull on the crankcase and > the gas tank, It's only a very small suction at best, since the whole system is open to the air through the carbon canister. But there is some, because the canister itself (and the lines to it) presents some restriction to flow. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Apr 27 15:02:36 2010 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 17:02:36 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question Message-ID: <45ace.774c162c.3908aaec@cs.com> In a message dated 4/27/2010 3:45:08 PM Central Daylight Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: > Why does this have such a huge impact on the engine (especially idle) > when the > pipe to the valve cover is unplugged? It really seems to unbalance things > a > lot. The carbs are newly rebuilt with only less than 1000 miles on them, > so I > don't think anything is jammed open etc. > The source of suction is the venturi in the carburettor. Introducing a significant amount of air (compared to air flow at idle) will change the fuel/air ratio. The carb is calibrated to compensate the typical amount from the crankcase and the charcoal canister based on the restriction of those two paths. Disconnecting the hose from the valve cover changes that restriction and will increase the amount of air leaning out the idle mixture. Plugging the hose will reduce the amount of air causing the idle mixture to be rich. It's all a delicate balance. Slante Dave From dconnitt at fuse.net Tue Apr 27 16:12:13 2010 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 18:12:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cast iron welding and repair information In-Reply-To: <4BD63ECB.60600@dfn.com> References: <068801cae5a4$4aafc170$e00f4450$@rr.com> <4BD63ECB.60600@dfn.com> Message-ID: <73B134E4912D4A63A7FFFB738F840A27@DaveLaptop> Has anybody used the Henrob 2000 torch to repair cast iron crack? I just bought one for doing sheet metal repairs but haven't tried it on Cast Iron yet. Their website claims you can do cast iron repairs. Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 27 16:32:35 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 15:32:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134624@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <063401cae587$49512200$dbf36600$@rr.com> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134624@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <08a301cae659$892f3290$9b8d97b0$@rr.com> > Why does this have such a huge impact on the engine (especially idle) > when the pipe to the valve cover is unplugged? Well, it's basically an intentional vacuum leak. By blocking off the flow into the emission ports on the carbs, you are changing the mixture. In theory, though, the crankcase should be a dead end, so it should quickly pull a few inches of vacuum and then go back to where it was. It should be the line to the carbon canister that makes a big, permanent difference. Could you have tired rings, or some path for air to get into the crankcase? Wrong filler cap, perhaps? BTW, you do have the restrictors on the ports, correct? Probably, for a triple setup, you should really have smaller restrictors to keep the 'emissions' airflow the same relative to the flow past the throttle plate. -- Randall From jhassall at blacksburg.net Tue Apr 27 18:56:20 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 20:56:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - In-Reply-To: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> References: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <4BD787B4.2030801@blacksburg.net> On 4/27/2010 11:04 AM, v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote: > I am going to be rebuilding and replacing my wifes 1296 Spitfire with a > 1500 lump, and since I will be pulling the engine, I was also considering > fixing the problem I have had since the initial restoration of the car > about 6 years ago, and that is with the synchros in the transmission. This > transmission is a single rail 1975 overdrive box, and at the time I had > replaced all the synchros with new. They have never been right, grinding > in almost every gear unless you allow a second or two between shifts, or > double clutch. Forget about fast shifting - I was really disappointed with > the initial rebuild, and as such am hesitant to do it all over again, > especially since I have heard similar stories with problem replacement > synchros  I am not about to buy new synchros and go through all the work > to replace them, only to have the same problem - > Has the bad synchro problem been fixed or are they all still junk?? > IFF TR4/TR6 synchros will fit your gbx, contact Ken Gillanders at British Frame and Engine. I installed a set of his synchros in my TR4 gbx and it shifts perfectly. jim -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Tue Apr 27 21:52:00 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 23:52:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <08a301cae659$892f3290$9b8d97b0$@rr.com> References: <063401cae587$49512200$dbf36600$@rr.com> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134624@CMS01.winhosting.local>, <08a301cae659$892f3290$9b8d97b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3133584@CMS01.winhosting.local> Hi Randall: Hmmm, engine is low milage after re-build. Alloy valve cover. Power is very good, idle is not. I have always attributed that to poor hand-done S2 camshaft or weird distributor bearings. Carbs are 3 standard ZS units rebuilt by Paltech on Good manifolds. Which restrictors do you refer to? Cheers, Mark ________________________________________ From: Randall [tr3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: April 27, 2010 6:32 PM To: Mark Hooper; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question > Why does this have such a huge impact on the engine (especially idle) > when the pipe to the valve cover is unplugged? Well, it's basically an intentional vacuum leak. By blocking off the flow into the emission ports on the carbs, you are changing the mixture. In theory, though, the crankcase should be a dead end, so it should quickly pull a few inches of vacuum and then go back to where it was. It should be the line to the carbon canister that makes a big, permanent difference. Could you have tired rings, or some path for air to get into the crankcase? Wrong filler cap, perhaps? BTW, you do have the restrictors on the ports, correct? Probably, for a triple setup, you should really have smaller restrictors to keep the 'emissions' airflow the same relative to the flow past the throttle plate. -- Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Apr 28 08:42:40 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 10:42:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 overdrive Message-ID: List, Anyone interested in a totally rebuilt TR4 overdrive transmission please contact me off list. Ed Woods From red_tr250 at hotmail.com Wed Apr 28 10:14:54 2010 From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 12:14:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Road Atlanta and the Mitty In-Reply-To: <844990661.19974961272386303848.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com>, <844990661.19974961272386303848.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Look for a bunch of TR people at turn 5 cheers todd bermudez Cincinnati oh > Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 16:38:23 +0000 > From: tfansher at comcast.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Road Atlanta and the Mitty > > The Mitty vintage race is this weekend at Road Atlanta..Anyone going besides me? My two neighbors and I went last year in a motor home and had a blast. We'll be parked in the same place. > Looking forward to it and seeing friends. Let me know. > Tom > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/red_tr250 at hotmail.com > _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 From dkspence at telus.net Wed Apr 28 12:25:14 2010 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 12:25:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0EAF3D7A-BF15-4F98-907B-4A79706D87E4@telus.net> Randall et all What is the purpose/function of the device in the coolant line that has two hose nipples. I'm assuming it's a thermal "switch" but what should it be hooked up to? ( 72 TR6) On 28-Apr-10, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: Randall [tr3driver at ca.rr.com] > Sent: April 27, 2010 6:32 PM > To: Mark Hooper; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question From jdabars at att.net Wed Apr 28 14:45:38 2010 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 13:45:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 176 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <302000.536.qm@web83711.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> ________________________________ From: "triumphs-request at autox.team.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, April 28, 2010 2:00:02 PM Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 176 Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to triumphs-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics:g b ggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg ggggggggggggggggggggg bg bEnd of Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 176 **************************************** From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 28 15:50:27 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 14:50:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <0EAF3D7A-BF15-4F98-907B-4A79706D87E4@telus.net> References: <0EAF3D7A-BF15-4F98-907B-4A79706D87E4@telus.net> Message-ID: <0a6301cae71c$d136cad0$73a46070$@rr.com> > What is the purpose/function of the device in the coolant line that > has two hose nipples. I'm assuming it's a thermal "switch" but what > should it be hooked up to? ( 72 TR6) Basically, it blocks the vacuum signal to the vacuum retard module, when the engine starts to overheat. One port has a line to the vacuum retard module on the distributor, another has a line to the carb port (under the rear carb as I recall), and the third (if present) is left open to the air. Here's a factory blurb with a photo & more details: http://tinyurl.com/2el4fmz -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 28 16:09:48 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 15:09:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3133584@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <063401cae587$49512200$dbf36600$@rr.com> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134624@CMS01.winhosting.local>, <08a301cae659$892f3290$9b8d97b0$@rr.com> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3133584@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <0a6401cae71f$8528b380$8f7a1a80$@rr.com> > Which restrictors do you refer to? Well, come to think of it, maybe the TR6 was different. On the Stag, the plastic 'adapters' that fit over the carb pipes (where the purge lines attach) also partially block the pipes. I don't have one handy to measure, but ISTR the pipe is perhaps 5/16" od and the hole in the 'adapter' is only about 3/16". -- Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Apr 28 16:10:28 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 17:10:28 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Independent air filter test and oil test Message-ID: <2114252262.2986041.1272492628751.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net> Always want to say that the list saves me money, but it also makes me want to try stuff out that costs money. After I posted the results of my oil analysis from my 72 TR6, Castrol oil with a bottle of ZDDPlus, I gots lots of comments. Based on the air filter discussion, I just removed my K&N filters, replaced with paper from TRF, and plan to drive the car this summer and have another oil analysis done next spring. I will post to the list the results. I have heard from others that folks on the VTR list are also testing with BlackStone Labs. Hopefully enough testing will be done to give us something to compare to. Putting the hard top away, going to be 80 this weekend. Thanks, Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 28 16:11:35 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 15:11:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - In-Reply-To: <4BD787B4.2030801@blacksburg.net> References: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> <4BD787B4.2030801@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <0a6501cae71f$c4655c60$4d301520$@rr.com> > IFF TR4/TR6 synchros will fit your gbx, They won't. The Spit/GT6 rings look almost identical, but are perhaps 20% smaller diameter. -- Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Apr 28 18:17:10 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 18:17:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <0a6401cae71f$8528b380$8f7a1a80$@rr.com> References: <063401cae587$49512200$dbf36600$@rr.com> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134624@CMS01.winhosting.local>, <08a301cae659$892f3290$9b8d97b0$@rr.com> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3133584@CMS01.winhosting.local> <0a6401cae71f$8528b380$8f7a1a80$@rr.com> Message-ID: <3A170306-F3EC-4CEB-8577-303E53EB5289@comcast.net> The 1972 TR6 carbs I had both had the white plastic adapters exactly as you describe. Dimensions sound about right. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Apr 28, 2010, at 4:09 PM, Randall wrote: >> Which restrictors do you refer to? > > Well, come to think of it, maybe the TR6 was different. On the > Stag, the > plastic 'adapters' that fit over the carb pipes (where the purge lines > attach) also partially block the pipes. I don't have one handy to > measure, > but ISTR the pipe is perhaps 5/16" od and the hole in the 'adapter' > is only > about 3/16". > > -- Randall > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From mark at bradakis.com Wed Apr 28 18:37:15 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 18:37:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 176 In-Reply-To: <302000.536.qm@web83711.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <302000.536.qm@web83711.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BD8D4BB.1020403@bradakis.com> Gee, that went well. mjb. From pcaffrey at ymail.com Wed Apr 28 19:30:17 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 18:30:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Toggle Switch In-Reply-To: <521946.59028.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <521946.59028.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <551004.88464.qm@web59701.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> FYI and as a follow-up, I just received the book, Triumph TR2 thru TR8, Bill Piggott, 2009 ed....Page 183 shows the switch I referred to and notes, "The switch to the left of the rev counter is not unusual--it operates the Swiss market 'Town and Country' horns....The switch on my car was never wired to a thing. Pat ________________________________ From: P Caffrey To: list Triumph Sent: Thu, April 22, 2010 5:41:57 PM Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Toggle Switch Hi List, My TR4A has a toggle switch in the upper left of the dashboard. The switch was never wired to anything and is broken. I'm looking for a replacement switch so it can be used to activate an electric fan. When searching for a switch replacement, I found nothing and realized that the original TR4A dashboard never had a switch like this one. Does anyone know why such a switch was ever installed on the dashboard? (It was on the car when I bought it in the late 70's.) Did some TR4As just come with this type of auxiliary switch? Thanks for any info. Pat TR4A '67 1CTC/72746-L _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com From pcaffrey at ymail.com Wed Apr 28 19:42:50 2010 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 18:42:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Toggle Switch In-Reply-To: <551004.88464.qm@web59701.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <521946.59028.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <551004.88464.qm@web59701.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <857090.896.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Woops....I should have said, "The switch to the left of the rev counter is not USUAL." ________________________________ From: P Caffrey To: list Triumph Sent: Wed, April 28, 2010 6:30:17 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Dash Toggle Switch FYI and as a follow-up, I just received the book, Triumph TR2 thru TR8, Bill Piggott, 2009 ed....Page 183 shows the switch I referred to and notes, "The switch to the left of the rev counter is not unusual--it operates the Swiss market 'Town and Country' horns....The switch on my car was never wired to a thing. Pat ________________________________ From: P Caffrey To: list Triumph Sent: Thu, April 22, 2010 5:41:57 PM Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Toggle Switch Hi List, My TR4A has a toggle switch in the upper left of the dashboard. The switch was never wired to anything and is broken. I'm looking for a replacement switch so it can be used to activate an electric fan. When searching for a switch replacement, I found nothing and realized that the original TR4A dashboard never had a switch like this one. Does anyone know why such a switch was ever installed on the dashboard? (It was on the car when I bought it in the late 70's.) Did some TR4As just come with this type of auxiliary switch? Thanks for any info. Pat TR4A '67 1CTC/72746-L _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pcaffrey at ymail.com From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Apr 29 05:47:21 2010 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 07:47:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <0a6401cae71f$8528b380$8f7a1a80$@rr.com> References: <063401cae587$49512200$dbf36600$@rr.com><7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3134624@CMS01.winhosting.local>, <08a301cae659$892f3290$9b8d97b0$@rr.com><7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3133584@CMS01.winhosting.local> <0a6401cae71f$8528b380$8f7a1a80$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CCB5A8DCF027E3-890-70E7@webmail-m074.sysops.aol.com> Well, come to think of it, maybe the TR6 was different. On the Stag, the plastic 'adapters' that fit over the carb pipes (where the purge lines attach) also partially block the pipes. I don't have one handy to measure, but ISTR the pipe is perhaps 5/16" od and the hole in the 'adapter' is only about 3/16". I've seen those pieces with and without restrictors. I suspect that it depends on the year and whether or not the car has the anti-run-on system. Additionally, the charcoal canister on the cars with the anti-run-on system has a restrictor on the hose connection to the carburettor. I don't know but I think the anti-run-on system wasn't fitted until model year 73. Dave From agraham at execulink.com Thu Apr 29 08:40:47 2010 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 10:40:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front wheel bearings Message-ID: <4BD99A6F.6090000@execulink.com> Hello List: Puzzling over the selection of front wheel bearings for my TR2. Have updated to discs, so thought I would re-do the hubs as well. Have considered using Timken, but they are at a real premium, around $100 per wheel. Not sure what the big three offer in their bearing packages, but they look like off-shore bearings with the exception of TRF which has a Timken package. Our local bearing house can offer Timken for a slight discount. Should off-shore bearings be avoided? Bite the bullet and go for Timken? Wondering about other listers experiences. Thanks in advance for any direction on this. Angelo Graham From pethier at comcast.net Thu Apr 29 10:40:48 2010 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 16:40:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Front wheel bearings In-Reply-To: <4BD99A6F.6090000@execulink.com> Message-ID: <1072178966.20052401272559248166.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I went with Timken on my TR4. I don't think the new owner will be wearing them out any time soon. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack" 1979 Caterham Super Seven 2004 Suburban 8.1 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org http://www.mnautox.com ----- "Angelo Graham" wrote: > From: "Angelo Graham" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 9:40:47 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] Front wheel bearings > > Hello List: > Puzzling over the selection of front wheel bearings for my TR2. Have > updated to discs, so thought I would re-do the hubs as well. Have > considered using Timken, but they are at a real premium, around $100 > per > wheel. Not sure what the big three offer in their bearing packages, > but > they look like off-shore bearings with the exception of TRF which has > a > Timken package. Our local bearing house can offer Timken for a slight > > discount. > Should off-shore bearings be avoided? Bite the bullet and go for > Timken? > Wondering about other listers experiences. > Thanks in advance for any direction on this. > Angelo Graham > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 29 10:54:30 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 09:54:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Front wheel bearings In-Reply-To: <4BD99A6F.6090000@execulink.com> References: <4BD99A6F.6090000@execulink.com> Message-ID: <001601cae7bc$a32fd7d0$e98f8770$@rr.com> FWIW, I found Timken wheel bearings for a reasonable price at RockAuto. However, I don't feel there is anything 'magic' about the Timken brand, especially since many of their bearings are actually produced overseas. Any of the quality names like National, NTN, SKF, etc. should be fine. -- Randall From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Apr 29 11:34:46 2010 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 10:34:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Soft Top Message-ID: <80277.65004.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> It was 26 degrees and snowing at my house this morning - IN CALIFORNIA! I live in the mountains. I've got a question about the soft top for my TR3. There is a floppy strip on the soft top that is at the front of the top over the windscreen frame. The strip is about 2.5 inches wide and runs the top of the windscreen. Do the snaps go through this? I left the strip pointing aft over the sun visors. It didn't appear to fit going forward. What is the strip for? Bill in Tehachapi From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 29 12:33:36 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 14:33:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Soft Top In-Reply-To: <80277.65004.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <80277.65004.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > I've got a question about the soft top for my TR3. There is a floppy > strip on the soft top that is at the front of the top over the windscreen > frame. The strip is about 2.5 inches wide and runs the top of the windscreen. > Do the snaps go through this? I left the strip pointing aft over the sun > visors. It didn't appear to fit going forward. What is the strip for? > > Bill in Tehachapi The strip goes between the tenax fasteners on the top and the windscreen chrome strip. You need to put holes in it to allow the Tenax pegs to stick through it. The holes should be a little bigger diameter than the hex on the Tenax pegs. John H. From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Apr 29 13:14:27 2010 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 14:14:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Soft Top References: <80277.65004.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I've always wondered what that strip is for, too. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 12:34 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Soft Top > It was 26 degrees and snowing at my house this morning - IN > CALIFORNIA! I > live in the mountains. > I've got a question about the soft top for my TR3. There is a floppy > strip on the soft top that is at the front of the top over the windscreen > frame. The strip is about 2.5 inches wide and runs the top of the > windscreen. > Do the snaps go through this? I left the strip pointing aft over the sun > visors. It didn't appear to fit going forward. What is the strip for? > > Bill in Tehachapi > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Thu Apr 29 13:09:12 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 15:09:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <8CCB5A8DCF027E3-890-70E7@webmail-m074.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313463D@CMS01.winhosting.local> I've got the restrictor on the canister, but not on the carbs. So, now to locate three of the things. I suppose I could just use one on the valve cover pipe. Mark -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave1massey at cs.com Sent: April 29, 2010 7:47 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question Well, come to think of it, maybe the TR6 was different. On the Stag, the plastic 'adapters' that fit over the carb pipes (where the purge lines attach) also partially block the pipes. I don't have one handy to measure, but ISTR the pipe is perhaps 5/16" od and the hole in the 'adapter' is only about 3/16". I've seen those pieces with and without restrictors. I suspect that it depends on the year and whether or not the car has the anti-run-on system. Additionally, the charcoal canister on the cars with the anti-run-on system has a restrictor on the hose connection to the carburettor. I don't know but I think the anti-run-on system wasn't fitted until model year 73. Dave From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Apr 29 13:55:47 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 15:55:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod Message-ID: <3357F5FF714141B2B896BCAD127147A1@CarlPC> Are they body color or black? Seen them both ways. Thanks Carl ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Carl - Tampa 1961 TR3A TS81802LO Body Off Restoration Completion Date: NATC 2010 (Jekyll Island, GA) http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ (I need to update my pictures; 11/27/09 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 29 14:52:40 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 13:52:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative filter - function or setup question In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313463D@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <8CCB5A8DCF027E3-890-70E7@webmail-m074.sysops.aol.com> <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313463D@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <006801cae7dd$e917cc00$bb476400$@rr.com> > I've got the restrictor on the canister, but not on the carbs. So, now > to > locate three of the things. Well, maybe it would be better to find out why there is air coming out of the crankcase first. As I understand it, when the anti-runon system was added, they also went to a sealed oil filler cap ... perhaps yours is vented? The 73 emissions training notes also say the dipstick must be in position. -- Randall From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Thu Apr 29 19:16:21 2010 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 21:16:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod In-Reply-To: <3357F5FF714141B2B896BCAD127147A1@CarlPC> References: <3357F5FF714141B2B896BCAD127147A1@CarlPC> Message-ID: <66F49DBB009C45B4826ABF217B61ACAF@Scott> I did both the trunk and the hood body color. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 3:56 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod Are they body color or black? Seen them both ways. Thanks Carl ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - From wbeech at flash.net Thu Apr 29 19:57:56 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 19:57:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod In-Reply-To: <66F49DBB009C45B4826ABF217B61ACAF@Scott> References: <3357F5FF714141B2B896BCAD127147A1@CarlPC> <66F49DBB009C45B4826ABF217B61ACAF@Scott> Message-ID: <1A02CC1F5BB24268ACBEEB35D7A86A56@bboffice> The VTR Judging guide Sez: "It is believed that the release mechanism and prop rod was installed prior to painting of the body shell so that the components were painted body color." Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS 30766 L aka "Tar Baby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Suhring Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 7:16 PM To: 'Carl TR'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod I did both the trunk and the hood body color. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 3:56 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod Are they body color or black? Seen them both ways. Thanks Carl ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Apr 29 22:33:50 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 00:33:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod In-Reply-To: <1A02CC1F5BB24268ACBEEB35D7A86A56@bboffice> References: <3357F5FF714141B2B896BCAD127147A1@CarlPC> <66F49DBB009C45B4826ABF217B61ACAF@Scott> <1A02CC1F5BB24268ACBEEB35D7A86A56@bboffice> Message-ID: <4AC31297A82046BC9B72B87A045898E1@CarlPC> Thanks all. Bill - where in the judging guide? I looked but didn't see it - in fact I don't see anything but information about modified/prepared judging standards on the VTR site. perhaps part of it is missing? Thanks again, Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "'Scott Suhring'" ; "'Carl TR'" ; Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 9:57 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod > The VTR Judging guide Sez: "It is believed that the release mechanism and > prop rod was installed prior to painting of the body shell so that the > components were painted body color." > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS 30766 L aka "Tar Baby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Suhring > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 7:16 PM > To: 'Carl TR'; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod > > I did both the trunk and the hood body color. > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3A > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 3:56 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod > > Are they body color or black? Seen them both ways. > Thanks > Carl > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Fri Apr 30 00:13:33 2010 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 00:13:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod In-Reply-To: <4AC31297A82046BC9B72B87A045898E1@CarlPC> References: <3357F5FF714141B2B896BCAD127147A1@CarlPC> <66F49DBB009C45B4826ABF217B61ACAF@Scott> <1A02CC1F5BB24268ACBEEB35D7A86A56@bboffice> <4AC31297A82046BC9B72B87A045898E1@CarlPC> Message-ID: It is in the Under Hood section page UH-7 Bill -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 10:34 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: wbeech at flash.net; 'Scott Suhring'; Michael Marr Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod Thanks all. Bill - where in the judging guide? I looked but didn't see it - in fact I don't see anything but information about modified/prepared judging standards on the VTR site. perhaps part of it is missing? Thanks again, Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "'Scott Suhring'" ; "'Carl TR'" ; Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 9:57 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod > The VTR Judging guide Sez: "It is believed that the release mechanism and > prop rod was installed prior to painting of the body shell so that the > components were painted body color." > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS 30766 L aka "Tar Baby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Suhring > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 7:16 PM > To: 'Carl TR'; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod > > I did both the trunk and the hood body color. > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3A > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 3:56 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod > > Are they body color or black? Seen them both ways. > Thanks > Carl > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From brad.kahler at 141.com Fri Apr 30 10:32:52 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 12:32:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mark Joslyn's Triumph estate auction In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Spent Tuesday and Wednesday evenings working on Mark's old TR4. I happend to have a set of HS6 carbs with manifold sitting on the shelf as well as a nice ready to go radiator. Installed the manifold, carbs and radiator and tried to start it. No luck. Turns out that after 8 years sitting in the repair shop the fuel pump had failed. Not to surprising just a pain in the backside to have to replace. Fortunately I had a NOS unit sitting on the shelf and bolted it on. After that it started right up. Sounds good and revs smoothly. After checking the brakes out after work we should be taking it for a test drive around the neighborhood. As a backup I took the original radiator to a shop to have the leak fixed and checked out. Turns out it was a good think I had a good one sitting on the shelf. The original radiator was toast. It had gotten so hot the fins had become desoldered from the tubes. You could slide the fins up and down like an accordian. I had never seen a radiator this bad before. For about $300 it can be fixed. The tanks and sides are good so its going to be stashed away in the barn "just in case". Brad 1963 TR4 (among others) > > For those of you who knew Mark and his cars if you have any > remembrances or know any of the history of his 63 TR4 with the red > racing stripe I would be interesting in hearing about it. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 30 11:39:15 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:39:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mark Joslyn's Triumph estate auction In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <022601cae88c$0e4e04e0$2aea0ea0$@rr.com> > Fortunately I had a NOS unit sitting on the shelf and bolted it on. If it was really NOS, you might want to consider changing the diaphragm sooner rather than later. The original diaphragms won't stand up to our modern 'oxygenated' fuel, and will very likely start leaking fuel out the weep hole (or into the crankcase). > It had gotten > so hot the fins had become desoldered from the tubes. That's interesting. I had a similar problem with my original TR3A radiator, but it didn't seem to have ever been soldered. Apparently, the tubes were just pressed through the fins, and either thermal cycles or corrosion had loosened them. I'm thinking I may have a similar problem with my current TR3 radiator, which was apparently recored many decades ago with the same type of core (but no crank hole). -- Randall From bkahler1 at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 12:01:16 2010 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 14:01:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mark Joslyn's Triumph estate auction In-Reply-To: <022601cae88c$0e4e04e0$2aea0ea0$@rr.com> References: <022601cae88c$0e4e04e0$2aea0ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: > If it was really NOS, you might want to consider changing the diaphragm > sooner rather than later. The original diaphragms won't stand up to our > modern 'oxygenated' fuel, and will very likely start leaking fuel out the > weep hole (or into the crankcase). Thats a good point. I don't know how old the pump is but it had definitely never been installed on an engine before. Moss doesn't sell a complete kit, and I haven't had a chance to check TRF yet. If nothing else I really should carry a spare pump with me. > That's interesting. I had a similar problem with my original TR3A radiator, > but it didn't seem to have ever been soldered. Apparently, the tubes were > just pressed through the fins, and either thermal cycles or corrosion had > loosened them. I'm thinking I may have a similar problem with my current > TR3 radiator, which was apparently recored many decades ago with the same > type of core (but no crank hole). The impression from looking at the old radiator was almost as if there was no solder on the fins. If thats the case it makes you wonder how they stayed in place all these years. Some of the fins wouldn't move so either they were soldered or the press fit was still good enough. Someday I'll get it recored but I'm hoping to not have to worry about it for a while. Brad From spitlist at cox.net Fri Apr 30 12:07:07 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:07:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mark Joslyn's Triumph estate auction In-Reply-To: <022601cae88c$0e4e04e0$2aea0ea0$@rr.com> References: <022601cae88c$0e4e04e0$2aea0ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: A lot of things won't stand up to modern fuel. At the VTR/Triumphest last year, I had a feed hose from the tank to the fuel pump start leaking. I replaced it with a Teflon lined hose that was quite expensive but well worth it for piece of mind. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:39 AM To: 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Mark Joslyn's Triumph estate auction > Fortunately I had a NOS unit sitting on the shelf and bolted it on. If it was really NOS, you might want to consider changing the diaphragm sooner rather than later. The original diaphragms won't stand up to our modern 'oxygenated' fuel, and will very likely start leaking fuel out the weep hole (or into the crankcase). > It had gotten > so hot the fins had become desoldered from the tubes. That's interesting. I had a similar problem with my original TR3A radiator, but it didn't seem to have ever been soldered. Apparently, the tubes were just pressed through the fins, and either thermal cycles or corrosion had loosened them. I'm thinking I may have a similar problem with my current TR3 radiator, which was apparently recored many decades ago with the same type of core (but no crank hole). -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 30 12:53:37 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:53:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mark Joslyn's Triumph estate auction In-Reply-To: References: <022601cae88c$0e4e04e0$2aea0ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <026601cae896$71dd2fe0$55978fa0$@rr.com> > Moss doesn't > sell a complete kit, and I haven't had a chance to check TRF yet. TRF has the kits, I bought and installed one as part of getting my TR3 back on the road. They apparently assemble the kit themselves, as some of the parts were packaged for other cars. And it did include the seal for the diaphragm shaft, which wasn't in the 'official' AC kit I bought years ago. > If nothing else I really should carry a spare pump with me. I keep one of the little Facet electric pumps in the center of the spare tire. Much easier to press into service on the side of the road than a replacement mechanical pump. However, except for the old diaphragms not being compatible with ethanol/MTBE, I've never had an original pump fail so badly that it wouldn't get me home. It really is an amazingly reliable piece of gear. -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Apr 30 12:56:03 2010 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 14:56:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod In-Reply-To: References: <3357F5FF714141B2B896BCAD127147A1@CarlPC> <66F49DBB009C45B4826ABF217B61ACAF@Scott> <1A02CC1F5BB24268ACBEEB35D7A86A56@bboffice> <4AC31297A82046BC9B72B87A045898E1@CarlPC> Message-ID: <5D0929D94B7647F9A96D0FB9C637C1CA@CarlPC> Ahah - that is the TRA judging guide. I had looked there as well but missed it. Thanks Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "'Carl TR'" ; Cc: "'Scott Suhring'" ; "'Michael Marr'" Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 2:13 AM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod > It is in the Under Hood section page UH-7 > > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 10:34 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: wbeech at flash.net; 'Scott Suhring'; Michael Marr > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod > > Thanks all. > > Bill - where in the judging guide? I looked but didn't see it - in fact I > don't see anything but information about modified/prepared judging > standards > on the VTR site. perhaps part of it is missing? > > Thanks again, > Carl > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: "'Scott Suhring'" ; "'Carl TR'" > ; > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 9:57 PM > Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod > > >> The VTR Judging guide Sez: "It is believed that the release mechanism and >> prop rod was installed prior to painting of the body shell so that the >> components were painted body color." >> >> Bill Beecher >> '58 TR-3A TS 30766 L aka "Tar Baby" >> www.triumphowners.com/1566 >> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of >> course, some times it is difficult to make it go" >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Suhring >> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 7:16 PM >> To: 'Carl TR'; triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod >> >> I did both the trunk and the hood body color. >> >> Scott Suhring >> Mechanicsburg, PA >> '70 TR6 >> '59 TR3A >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR >> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 3:56 PM >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood/Trunk Prop Rod >> >> Are they body color or black? Seen them both ways. >> Thanks >> Carl >> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> - >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Apr 30 20:04:13 2010 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 21:04:13 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph TR6 interior question Message-ID: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net> To the list, I am finally in receipt of all the interior for my 1972 Triumph TR6 from TRF: FB20903/NTN - B Panel kit SRK62/NTN - Seat kit SFK62 - Seat foam kit One concern I have is that I am under the impression that the seat kit and the foam kit are each specific to the drivers and passengers side.B I spoke with someone at TRF and he stated that the foam kit definitly was left and right but did not sound very confident. So, for the record, can anyone advise me on this? Are they driver and passenger specific, and if so, how can I tell? I would like to mark them so they are labled driver and passenger before I store them away for a future project. Thanks in advance. Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Apr 30 20:37:27 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 22:37:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph TR6 interior question In-Reply-To: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net> References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: Craig............ there is definitely a driver and passenger side seat foam and covering. Read through the VB guide on my site and you'll see it referenced. http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Restoration_VB_Guide.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:04 PM To: Subject: [TR] Triumph TR6 interior question > To the list, > > I am finally in receipt of all the interior for my 1972 Triumph TR6 from > TRF: > > FB20903/NTN - B Panel kit > SRK62/NTN - Seat kit > SFK62 - Seat foam kit > > One concern I have is that I am under the impression that the seat kit and > the > foam kit are each specific to the drivers and passengers side.B I spoke > with > someone at TRF and he stated that the foam kit definitly was left and > right > but did not sound very confident. > > So, for the record, can anyone advise me on this? Are they driver and > passenger specific, and if so, how can I tell? > > I would like to mark them so they are labled driver and passenger before I > store them away for a future project. > > Thanks in advance. > > Craig H. Nicholls > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Apr 30 20:58:00 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 02:58:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumph TR6 interior question In-Reply-To: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net> References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F50B71B1@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Craig, I have two new unopened TRF seat foam kits and they are clearly marked LH and RH on the label attached to each of the clear plastic wrappers. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:04 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Triumph TR6 interior question To the list, I am finally in receipt of all the interior for my 1972 Triumph TR6 from TRF: FB20903/NTN - B Panel kit SRK62/NTN - Seat kit SFK62 - Seat foam kit One concern I have is that I am under the impression that the seat kit and the foam kit are each specific to the drivers and passengers side.B I spoke with someone at TRF and he stated that the foam kit definitly was left and right but did not sound very confident. So, for the record, can anyone advise me on this? Are they driver and passenger specific, and if so, how can I tell? I would like to mark them so they are labled driver and passenger before I store them away for a future project. Thanks in advance. Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6