From elliottr at onemain.com Thu Oct 1 01:23:05 2009 From: elliottr at onemain.com (Roger Elliott) Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 02:23:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 250 Clutch Help! Message-ID: <4AC41289.27563.89C815@elliottr.onemain.com> Hi Everyone, Sorry if this gets to the list more than once. My wife and I just arrived in San Luis Obispo, from Kansas, for the VTR\TRFest. Unfortunately, we have noticed shudder in the clutch when trying to start slowly in first gear. There are 3 or 4 shudders as we try to move in first or reverse. If we are taking off fast, we don't have the problem. We noticed the problem first driving in high altitudes in Colorado and Utah. So we thought the problem was just less power than we are used to. However, we are in SLO and still have the problem. It is not the way I have had clutches fail before. So I am wondering, is it the clutch or is there something else that might be wrong? Thanks, Roger Elliott Roger Elliott (913) 897-9543 elliottr at rmi.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 1 01:51:52 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 00:51:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 250 Clutch Help! In-Reply-To: <4AC41289.27563.89C815@elliottr.onemain.com> References: <4AC41289.27563.89C815@elliottr.onemain.com> Message-ID: <97F45A11452D4946975A9685F87EBE1D@Meislaptop> > My wife and I just arrived in San Luis Obispo, from Kansas, for the > VTR\TRFest. So in the morning, you can get hundreds of opinions in person! One cause of judder can be oil on the clutch; perhaps your rear main seal or the gearbox front seal is leaking? Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Oct 1 05:02:51 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 07:02:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 250 Clutch Help! In-Reply-To: <97F45A11452D4946975A9685F87EBE1D@Meislaptop> References: <4AC41289.27563.89C815@elliottr.onemain.com> Message-ID: <4AC4541B.29453.30A4D366@localhost> > > We noticed the problem first driving in high altitudes in > > Colorado and Utah. > > My wife and I just arrived in San Luis Obispo, from Kansas, for the > > VTR\TRFest. On 1 Oct 2009 at 0:51, Randall replied: > So in the morning, you can get hundreds of opinions in person! > I was going to suggest that the clutch wasn't getting enough air. But I'm not at VTR\TRFest so I won't. (In the old days it would have been written VTR/TRFest. Paul Allen has a lot to answer for.) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From Chip19474 at aol.com Thu Oct 1 07:33:12 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 09:33:12 EDT Subject: [TR] Dieseling and pinging Message-ID: Wayne, I'm sure there's a thread lurking around somewhere on the List regarding whether it's necessary to use high octane fuel with TR motors but, in your case, consider what you've observed......your engine "started with high octane fuel and ran fine". I think you'll fine that most owners of these cars use high octane fuel because the cars perform better and achieve better fuel economy. Not wanting to get into a discussion on compression ratio and octane/pinging relationships, back in the 60's, we used high octane fuel because we were advised that the cars required it and, indeed, they ran better with it. With today's pump fuel octane levels "not what they used to be", using higher octane fuel is an even better choice. So, the simple answer to this portion of your post is to refill your tank with high octane (93) and tune to it rather than trying to dial-in your motor to 87 or 89 octane. My advice is to go with 93 octane and adjust your timing and carbs to that fuel. As far as agonizing over trying to get a textbook timing reading, forget it! Anytime you do modifications to the engine, the timing setting offered in the service manual is a good place to start but the final timing setting is where the engine performs strongly without pinging under load..... Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Oct 1 08:13:41 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 10:13:41 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Dieseling and pinging In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20091001101341.CSL51285@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Chip Krout wrote: > My advice is to go with 93 octane and adjust your timing and > carbs to that fuel. Agreed. I recall an email conversation with someone about the cost of high-test gas, hating to pay for it for his Spitfire. I suggested that the cost might be 10% to 20% more than the low-octane stuff that goes in the family SUV, but the Spitfire gets 30% to 50% better mileage. The conclusion is obvious. Forget the cost, get the LBC to do its thing as well as it can! Jim Muller From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 1 08:56:19 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 07:56:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dieseling and pinging In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > The head was shaved to raise the compression Perhaps someone else knows if this applies to a TR6; but I know that on a TR3 motor it is important to round the sharp edges created after shaving the head. Otherwise, the edges cause pinging and dieseling. > My question is do I have to run high octane fuel or fuel additives or can > I adjust the ZS carbs? To take advantage of the higher compression, you need the higher octane fuel. You _might_ be able to get by on regular without pinging, by retarding the ignition timing. However, this will reduce both performance and mileage; to likely worse than it was with a stock engine. > What causes this? Will carb air/fuel adjustment fix it? It may get better over time, if you get the mixture and timing right. It's caused by something in the cylinder (other than the spark) being hot enough to ignite the fuel; which can sometimes be carbon from rich mixture or misfiring. But given your story, I doubt it will get better by itself. You'd best learn to kill the engine with the clutch, just after you turn the key off. > with engine @ idle 800 RPM, and the vacuum advance > still attached, A US-spec 73 would not have had vacuum advance originally; has someone tried to add it? > I was no where near 4 ATDC. So where was it? > Should I be concerned that my > vacuum advance is not working? The stock setup on a 73 was vacuum retard only. The VR was purely for emissions control and not very good at that. So my suggestion would be to leave it not working, and ignore the 4 ATDC timing figure. If it has been modified for vacuum advance, then the advance would not be working at idle anyway. VA is primarily for improved fuel economy (although it does increase NOx emissions somewhat) so if you have it, I would suggest getting it working. But the bottom line is that you need to figure out what you have, in order to know how to adjust it. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 1 09:16:26 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 08:16:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Valvoline synthetic brake fluid In-Reply-To: <1885267014.8143471254351010988.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <20090930.125219.1789.2@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> <1885267014.8143471254351010988.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > Of course, I'm talking about DOT 5, not 3/4. And that is an important distinction! The stuff labeled "synthetic" in the stores is NOT DOT-5 silicone, and still has all the problems associated with DOT-3/4 (removes paint, absorbs moisture, causes corrosion, needs to be replaced every few years, etc.). Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 1 09:29:24 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 10:29:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Valvoline synthetic brake fluid References: <20090930.125219.1789.2@webmail13.vgs.untd.com><1885267014.8143471254351010988.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: randall - are you sure? i'm going on heresay, so i know i'm naiive. someone told me the synthetic 3/4 does not eat paint and is not hygroscopic. anyone?? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 10:16 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Valvoline synthetic brake fluid >> Of course, I'm talking about DOT 5, not 3/4. > > And that is an important distinction! The stuff labeled "synthetic" in > the > stores is NOT DOT-5 silicone, and still has all the problems associated > with > DOT-3/4 (removes paint, absorbs moisture, causes corrosion, needs to be > replaced every few years, etc.). From tr4zest at gmail.com Thu Oct 1 09:33:41 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 08:33:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Notes from the road: from Philly to SLO for the VTR National Message-ID: I've started a blog recounting my drive in a TR4 from Philadelphia to SLO for the Triumpfest and VTR National here n southern CA. It was a 4-day drive of some 3,100 miles. I'll add more pictures as I manage to get them off my phone. Ciao, Brian Jones Triumph TR4 1962, CT 14455L (now O) Valley Forge, PA From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Oct 1 11:57:34 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 13:57:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valvoline synthetic brake fluid In-Reply-To: References: <20090930.125219.1789.2@webmail13.vgs.untd.com><1885267014.8143471254351010988.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: We had this discussion after Castrol LMA added the work Synthetic to the name. Someone checked with Castrol and confirmed that it IS NOT a DOT5 fluid and that it WILL eat paint. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 11:29 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Valvoline synthetic brake fluid randall - are you sure? i'm going on heresay, so i know i'm naiive. someone told me the synthetic 3/4 does not eat paint and is not hygroscopic. anyone?? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 10:16 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Valvoline synthetic brake fluid >> Of course, I'm talking about DOT 5, not 3/4. > > And that is an important distinction! The stuff labeled "synthetic" in > the > stores is NOT DOT-5 silicone, and still has all the problems associated > with > DOT-3/4 (removes paint, absorbs moisture, causes corrosion, needs to be > replaced every few years, etc.). This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Oct 1 12:13:41 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 14:13:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ Message-ID: I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the gearbox W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help FT From cak at dimebank.com Thu Oct 1 12:34:08 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 11:34:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [Shop-talk] Suggestions/ Message-ID: <200910011834.n91IY8bK016942@moose.dimebank.com> Fred, I think that "common wisdom" today is to use GL4, *not* GL5, because the sulfur in the GL5 oils will eat away the brass and copper shim washers, especially in the diff. I'm a fan of RedLine no-shock for the diff. chris From L1J1S at aol.com Thu Oct 1 12:37:02 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 14:37:02 EDT Subject: [TR] Tr- tr3 ashtray cover Message-ID: list, does anyone know of a source where i can buy a bakelite front cover for the tr3's ashtrays? larry schwartz From tr4zest at gmail.com Thu Oct 1 13:21:00 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 12:21:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Phillly to SLO and the VTR National - with a link this time, LOL Message-ID: Sorry - I forgot the link - thanks Oliver... http://brianjones.tumblr.com/ Brian From dlylis at gmail.com Thu Oct 1 13:24:43 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 19:24:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ Message-ID: I originally tried 30W ND when I completed my gearbox OD rebuild but down here in the tropics the stuff ran like water when drained hot. I went back to 85-90W gear oil GL4 if I am not mistaken. ------Original Message------ From: FRED E THOMAS Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: triumphs Cc: Shop-Talk Mailing List Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ Sent: Oct 1, 2009 2:13 PM I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the gearbox W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help FT This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From wlsserv at aol.com Thu Oct 1 14:51:12 2009 From: wlsserv at aol.com (wlsserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 16:51:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC10F00B6636C7-19B8-A22F@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com> go to www.vincotransmission.com for gearbox & OD Walt -----Original Message----- From: FRED E THOMAS To: triumphs Cc: Shop-Talk Mailing List Sent: Thu, Oct 1, 2009 2:13 pm Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the gearbox W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help FT This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From wlsserv at aol.com Thu Oct 1 14:52:43 2009 From: wlsserv at aol.com (wlsserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 16:52:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC10F041E0E5CA-19B8-A2A2@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com> oops, it's not there yet.? Go to www.tcnf.org click on current newsletter, look for Vinco FAQ Walt -----Original Message----- From: FRED E THOMAS To: triumphs Cc: Shop-Talk Mailing List Sent: Thu, Oct 1, 2009 2:13 pm Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the gearbox W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help FT This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Oct 1 16:05:54 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:05:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Cargo--smallest pickup at Home Depot In-Reply-To: <779de48e0909301503u2c88fcaby4d686be2a2534986@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <360983539.308151254434754222.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Brought back a load of 2x6x12 pressure treated lumber in the passenger seat of the TR3A last weekend. Just curious. Where do you suppose this lands on the originality debate?B ...As I think about it, it's probably pretty common for the second owners.... Except for the pressure treated part, maybe. :o) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Oct 1 16:33:04 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:33:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ In-Reply-To: <8CC10F041E0E5CA-19B8-A2A2@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1038855445.316221254436384159.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the gearbox >W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help B FT I did compile this list of recommended lubricants for various 3A functions, mostly from Randall, as I remember.B If anything's changed, let me know? tranny oil:B 30 wt Valvoline non-detergent or Redline MT90.B (I run an OD, if that makes a difference.) engine oil:B break-in 30 wt Valvoline non detergent (Ken Gilanders, I think, described this as "white cap.") engine oil:B regular:B valvoline synthetic 10-40 or 10-30, depending on your climate?B I run 10-30 in New Hampshire. differential:B modern 90 weight. steering box:B modern 90 weight.B I run synthetic for both differential and steering box. dashpots:B straight 20 wt, though you can experiment if you want. trunnions:B regular grease (not oil) wire wheel splines:B Permatex copper anti-seize (#133A or #09128).B I have found, though, that anti-seize is better where the wheel hits the hub, to avoid the need for a sledge to pound it off.... Comments? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From ZoboHerald at aol.com Thu Oct 1 17:46:07 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 19:46:07 EDT Subject: [TR] Cargo--smallest pickup at Home Depot Message-ID: In a message dated 10/1/2009 6:06:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: Brought back a load of 2x6x12 pressure treated lumber in the passenger seat of the TR3A last weekend. Just curious. Where do you suppose this lands on the originality debate?B ...As I think about it, it's probably pretty common for the second owners.... ==AM== Don't know if it's all that common with others, but it is with me. Back in the 1970s, I used to load our local club's autocross supplies into the GT6 several times a year, often including as many of the pylons as would fit (and these were the BIG road work pylons)! I had a roof rack that got its share of use as well. I also have a roof rack for my current Herald sedan. That rack also has seen its share of ladders and lumber, and all sorts of things have been carted in the boot and interior (easy enough to remove the rear seat back for a longer load area)! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) From tr4zest at gmail.com Thu Oct 1 17:52:44 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 16:52:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cargo--smallest pickup at Home Depot In-Reply-To: <360983539.308151254434754222.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <779de48e0909301503u2c88fcaby4d686be2a2534986@mail.gmail.com> <360983539.308151254434754222.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Not TR-related, but your story reminded me of one morning in Spring this year, I loaded my Sebring convertible with 20 bags of mulch from Home Depot. The trunk took 5 bags and the rest stood like soldiers on the back and passenger seats. It is easy to load with the top down. The guy leaving the store with me walked up to his Ford F150 pickup that dwarfed my car, parked in the next bay. He lifted into the back of his pick-up an 8" flowerpot with a small shrub in it. We looked at his truck, the tiny plant; we looked at my car getting loaded to the gills, and both laughed out loud. ... I guess you had to be there... Brian On Thu, Oct 1, 2009 at 3:05 PM, wrote: > Brought back a load of 2x6x12 pressure treated lumber in the passenger seat > of > the TR3A last weekend. > > Just curious. > > Where do you suppose this lands on the originality debate?B ...As I think > about it, it's probably pretty common for the second owners.... > > Except for the pressure treated part, maybe. > > > > :o) > > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From rengrave at verizon.net Thu Oct 1 19:43:01 2009 From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne) Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 21:43:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dieseling and pinging In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Randall you are right, I have the stock distributor with vacuum retard, not advance, my mistake. I am ignoring the vacuum retard and ignoring the 4 degrees ATDC. I tried moving the distributor clockwise and ccw with the engine @ 800 rpm idle. I added higher octane fuel 89 I think, and I still get dieseling. I think I need to adjust the carbs (am not sure about this procedure). Any instructions for adjusting ZS 175 carbs ? What to set first, staring point? The Bentley manual instructs me to raise the piston inside the carb air inlet 1/4", and if the engine idle has an immediate increase, it means the carbs are set rich, if not the carbs are weak. If the idle slightly increases and then returns to normal, then the carb mixture is correct. The Bentley manual also steps me through a lot of adjustments to the carbs. Should I touch the carbs to try and fix my pinging and dieseling issue? Wayne 73 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 10:56 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Dieseling and pinging >> The head was shaved to raise the compression > > Perhaps someone else knows if this applies to a TR6; but I know that on a > TR3 motor it is important to round the sharp edges created after shaving > the > head. Otherwise, the edges cause pinging and dieseling. > >> My question is do I have to run high octane fuel or fuel additives or can >> I adjust the ZS carbs? > > To take advantage of the higher compression, you need the higher octane > fuel. You _might_ be able to get by on regular without pinging, by > retarding the ignition timing. However, this will reduce both performance > and mileage; to likely worse than it was with a stock engine. > >> What causes this? Will carb air/fuel adjustment fix it? > > It may get better over time, if you get the mixture and timing right. > It's > caused by something in the cylinder (other than the spark) being hot > enough > to ignite the fuel; which can sometimes be carbon from rich mixture or > misfiring. But given your story, I doubt it will get better by itself. > You'd best learn to kill the engine with the clutch, just after you turn > the > key off. > >> with engine @ idle 800 RPM, and the vacuum advance >> still attached, > > A US-spec 73 would not have had vacuum advance originally; has someone > tried > to add it? > >> I was no where near 4 ATDC. > > So where was it? > >> Should I be concerned that my >> vacuum advance is not working? > > The stock setup on a 73 was vacuum retard only. The VR was purely for > emissions control and not very good at that. So my suggestion would be to > leave it not working, and ignore the 4 ATDC timing figure. > > If it has been modified for vacuum advance, then the advance would not be > working at idle anyway. VA is primarily for improved fuel economy > (although > it does increase NOx emissions somewhat) so if you have it, I would > suggest > getting it working. > > But the bottom line is that you need to figure out what you have, in order > to know how to adjust it. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Oct 1 20:15:17 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 22:15:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cargo--smallest pickup at Home Depot In-Reply-To: References: <360983539.308151254434754222.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4AC529F5.32474.33E8301F@localhost> On Thu, Oct 1, 2009 at 3:05 PM, wrote: > Brought back a load of 2x6x12 pressure treated lumber in the > passenger seat of the TR3A last weekend. > > Just curious. > > Where do you suppose this lands on the originality debate? A few years ago we drove to a local farm and stuffed a 6ft Christmas tree into the back of the GT6. The farmhands and kids selling the trees and a few other customers too were amused, amazed. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wbeech at flash.net Thu Oct 1 22:10:50 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:10:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ In-Reply-To: <8CC10F00B6636C7-19B8-A22F@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC10F00B6636C7-19B8-A22F@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: So 30 weight motor oil? That is what my manual says and that is what I have in my tranny. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wlsserv at aol.com Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 2:51 PM To: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions/ go to www.vincotransmission.com for gearbox & OD Walt -----Original Message----- From: FRED E THOMAS To: triumphs Cc: Shop-Talk Mailing List Sent: Thu, Oct 1, 2009 2:13 pm Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the gearbox W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help FT This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Oct 1 23:04:49 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 23:04:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cargo--smallest pickup at Home Depot In-Reply-To: <360983539.308151254434754222.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <360983539.308151254434754222.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <208975F8-CE4C-44DD-8026-2D3FCC161F79@comcast.net> When I had my first TR6 back in 1974 I was using it as a daily driver in Denver winters. My girlfriend (now SWMBO) and I would also use it to go skiing. Put the ski boots into the trunk (boot would be redundant), zip down the back window, load the skis down between the seats and into the passenger foot well, zip the window back up, and we'd be on our way to the mountains. Had mud/snow tires on it and never had a problem coming or going. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Oct 1, 2009, at 4:05 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Brought back a load of 2x6x12 pressure treated lumber in the > passenger seat of > the TR3A last weekend. > > Just curious. > > Where do you suppose this lands on the originality debate?B ...As I > think > about it, it's probably pretty common for the second owners.... > > Except for the pressure treated part, maybe. > > > > :o) > > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 1 23:15:18 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:15:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the > gearbox > W/OD and rear differential, Although I do believe there are valid concerns about using a GL-5 oil; I have been using Valvoline "Synpower" full synthetic gear oil (75W90 GL5 MT1) in all of my Triumph differentials for many years and I still believe it is an excellent choice. The MT1 rating means it does not contain the "active" sulfur-based additives that can corrode the copper alloys used in Triumph differential thrust washers; while the GL5 rating means it provides superior protection for the gears. The differential in TS39781LO was already badly worn when it came to me; but got no worse in perhaps 200,000 hard miles using the Valvoline synthetic GL5. I have used Valvoline 20W50 Racing (motor) oil in my A-type OD gearbox for many years (based on advice from Ken Gillanders and Herman van den Akker) and I also believe it is an excellent choice. However, I have recently switched to Redline MT-90, and so far, I like it better. The OD operation is very quick and solid without being harsh; and gearbox shifting is very consistent between cold and hot. YMMV of course Randall From brad.kahler at 141.com Fri Oct 2 05:52:34 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 11:52:34 GMT Subject: [TR] Parts for sale Message-ID: <200910020552491.SM08176@[166.70.182.42]> I am planning on listing a lot of TR3, TR4 & Spitfire and Mayflower parts on eBay in the coming weeks but thought before I actually list each of them I would offer them to the list first. Below are a few of the items I was getting ready to list: TR3 seat pans and springs Guide for the starter crank handle that goes on the front apron TR3/TR4 jack in very nice condition TR3 Boot lid prop rod Mayflower wheel (one) Mayflower spare tire carrier More to come............. Feel free to contact me if you're interested in any of the above. Brad 1961 TR4 CT288L From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Oct 2 06:51:10 2009 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 05:51:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cargo--smallest pickup at Home Depot In-Reply-To: <208975F8-CE4C-44DD-8026-2D3FCC161F79@comcast.net> References: <360983539.308151254434754222.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <208975F8-CE4C-44DD-8026-2D3FCC161F79@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4AC5F73E.40408@gmail.com> Once, when the Land Rover was getting its gearbox rebuilt the TR3 had to fill in. During those times I went through a bale of alfalfa a day plus grain. On a Saturday my TR3 made 7 trips to the feed store carrying home a bale of alfalfa in the passenger side each time. Four 50 lb bags of grain also came home that day. Sometimes a TR3 has to be a farm truck Teriann From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Oct 2 07:14:09 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 08:14:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Fot] Wayne's TR-6 Message-ID: <20091002131433.A45D0187643@autox.team.net> I think Greg intended to send this to the TR list, not the FOT list... GREAT info. - Tony >From: "Greg Solow" >To: "Friends of Triumph" >Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:18:09 -0700 >Organization: Engine Room > >A '73 TR_6 was originally timed at 4 Degree after top Dead Center with the >vacuum retard connected and working. With the retard disconnected, the "static >timing", ie. with the engine NOT RUNNING will be at around 12 to 16 degrees >BTDC. With the engine at an idle speed of around 750 -800 RPM, and the retard >disconnected, the ignition timing with a light should be about 18 degree BTDC. >With the engine accelerating up to about 4500 rpm, the timing should advance >to 34 to 36 degrees BTDC. You MUST run at least 91 octane gas in this engine >or you are likely to damage internal parts. The higher the octane the better. >Remember, in 1973 gas was rated differently, It was "Research Octane" and the >number for a TR-6 was 98 octane. The current rating system uses a number 5 >lower, so the current version of the same performance would be 93 octane. You >have raised the compression, the engine now wants even higher octane gas! > In tuning a car, you always set the valve lash, then the timing, then >adjust the carburetor idle speed and mixture. The Emission Control Stromberg >carbs that came on your car cannot be properly tuned by the methods that you >mentioned. When they are set correctly, raising the air valve will always >cause the engine to stall. The needles and mixture was set up by the factory >for passing emissions tests, not for performance. The jets must not be worn, >the needles must not be worn, the fuel levels must be set to the proper >height, the idle speed must be correct. The temperature compensators must be >in good working condition, and the idle "throttle by-pass valves" must be >working properly. Then the mixture can be set by raising and lowering the >mixture needles in the air valves. This should be done on an exhaust analyzer >following the instructions in the workshop manual. For everything to work >properly, the vacuum retard must also be working! This is so because with the >ignition retarded to 4 Degrees ATDC, the throttle opening screws on the >carburetors have to be screwed down way more to in effect "speed up the idle" >. with everything set properly, if the retard is not working, the timing will >be around 20 degrees BTDC and the engine will idle at 1500 rpm or so. > Sorry, I am sure this is not the answer you wanted to hear!. > It is might be possible to make things work without the retard applied, >but everything else needs to be perfect, and the throttle by-pass valves on >the carburetors will probably have to be modified to prevent them from opening >and bleeding air around the throttle plates causing the idle to raise up even >higher. > > Regards, > > Greg Solow > >The Engine Room >Sports Car Specialists >Santa Cruz, Calif. 95060 >831 429-1800 From mathews at uga.edu Fri Oct 2 07:16:20 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 09:16:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cargo- Bootleg Beer In-Reply-To: <4AC5F73E.40408@gmail.com> References: <360983539.308151254434754222.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <208975F8-CE4C-44DD-8026-2D3FCC161F79@comcast.net> <4AC5F73E.40408@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4AC5FD24.8020606@uga.edu> When I was in college (60's), my home town did not sell alcohol, (well not legally anyway) and they had this big dance for the kids in town. A buddy & I decided we could make some money so we went to a town that sold beer cheap ($4/case) and put 4 cases in the trunk and sold to the young high school studs for 50 cents each so we would have grossed $48....would have except the police showed up and confiscated our beer. I was worried they would take my car and today they probably would have but back then in a small town everyone knew each other. I kept the car and they had the beer....fair trade in my book anyway. :-) Doug From klassiccar at aol.com Fri Oct 2 07:21:57 2009 From: klassiccar at aol.com (klassiccar at aol.com) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 09:21:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] bakelite Message-ID: <8CC117A734DDCD3-4A3C-1CE4A@webmail-d091.sysops.aol.com> Larry, Try Don Weinberger, vallarta at ptd.net Steve Klein From: L1J1S at aol.com Subject: [TR] Tr- tr3 ashtray cover To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" list, does anyone know of a source where i can buy a bakelite front cover for the tr3's ashtrays? larry schwartz From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 2 07:40:38 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 08:40:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] VTR 2010 Dates References: <779de48e0909301503u2c88fcaby4d686be2a2534986@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: i know it's Jekyl Island, but I can't find the date. anyone?? From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Fri Oct 2 07:47:50 2009 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 09:47:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suggestions OD oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: A local rebuilder recommended 50 wt. Valvoline Racing and that is what I started with. The engagement (without using the clutch) was very harsh and I thereafter used the clutch. The next year I put in 30 wt. Valvoline Racing and the engagement was what I think would be "normal". That said, this is the only OD I've driven. The other thing to keep in mind is that later (TR4A?) A type OD were redesigned for softer engagement. So I think you can select an oil weight that suits you. A friend has a 4A and I think he is using 50 wt. I have a 4 and the earlier OD. Allen On Oct 2, 2009, at 12:11 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in > the gearbox > W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help FT From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Oct 2 09:02:59 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 11:02:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2010 Dates References: <779de48e0909301503u2c88fcaby4d686be2a2534986@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4713C1CF382B40058D4C31F70958B38A@DCS78M81> October 17-21 Jekyll Island Club, Jekyll Island, Georgia. WONDERFUL venue, great time of year. Average high temp 75 F, average lows 65F. Should be a wonderful time. Jekyll Island and Jekyll Island Club have websites....check them out. Any questions let me know, I've been going there for 25 years or so. Very laid back and quiet, the Jekyll Island Club is out of another era and really nice. Tom Fansher Central Florida VTR 60 TR3A - should be done 61 TR3A - is done and will be there 62 TR4 might be done??? 73 Stag - will be there ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: "Triumph Email List" Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 9:40 AM Subject: [TR] VTR 2010 Dates >i know it's Jekyl Island, but I can't find the date. > > anyone?? From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Oct 2 09:12:52 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 11:12:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suggestions OD oil References: Message-ID: <33343450081643E292AC51015C0FFFAA@DCS78M81> Fred, sorry to take so long to get back, but I wanted to get my observations (if not facts) straight. I was talking to Jere Dotten in our club a few months ago after rebuilding the tranny in the Stag, his comment was that 90 weight gear oil is about the same viscosity of 30 weight motor oil. That made sense to me. I use Red Line MTF in the TR3 and TR4- I just looked at the bottle - 70-80 weight. I have 80-90 weight gear oil in the Stag. 90 differential oil in the diff. Tom ---- Original Message ----- From: "Allen Hess" To: Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 9:47 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions OD oil >A local rebuilder recommended 50 wt. Valvoline Racing and that is what I >started with. The engagement (without using the clutch) was very harsh and >I thereafter used the clutch. The next year I put in 30 wt. Valvoline >Racing and the engagement was what I think would be "normal". That said, >this is the only OD I've driven. The other thing to keep in mind is that >later (TR4A?) A type OD were redesigned for softer engagement. So I think >you can select an oil weight that suits you. A friend has a 4A and I think >he is using 50 wt. I have a 4 and the earlier OD. > > Allen > > On Oct 2, 2009, at 12:11 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: >> >> I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the >> gearbox >> W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help FT From pfischer at rmi.net Fri Oct 2 09:54:51 2009 From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 10:54:51 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Going_to_look_at_a_TR250_=E2=80=93_ballpark_value_?= =?utf-8?q?please=2E?= Message-ID: <20111118.1254498891509.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Forgive me for chiming in late. We're at the VTR in Ca this week. A Brit repair shop here has a 250 for sale - beautiful, of course - for $32K. Thought that might help your discussion. Pat Fischer How do I know what's in the repair shop? The usual method of testing out the local businesses. :-) From wbeech at flash.net Fri Oct 2 10:03:13 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 10:03:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Fot] Wayne's TR-6 (FOT?) In-Reply-To: <20091002131433.A45D0187643@autox.team.net> References: <20091002131433.A45D0187643@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Off-Topic from Wayne's TR-6. What the "Friends of Triumph" list for? Is this another parallel list? Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 7:14 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Fot] Wayne's TR-6 I think Greg intended to send this to the TR list, not the FOT list... GREAT info. - Tony >From: "Greg Solow" >To: "Friends of Triumph" >Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:18:09 -0700 >Organization: Engine Room > >A '73 TR_6 was originally timed at 4 Degree after top Dead Center with >the vacuum retard connected and working. With the retard disconnected, >the "static timing", ie. with the engine NOT RUNNING will be at around >12 to 16 degrees BTDC. With the engine at an idle speed of around 750 >-800 RPM, and the retard disconnected, the ignition timing with a light should be about 18 degree BTDC. >With the engine accelerating up to about 4500 rpm, the timing should >advance to 34 to 36 degrees BTDC. You MUST run at least 91 octane gas >in this engine or you are likely to damage internal parts. The higher the octane the better. >Remember, in 1973 gas was rated differently, It was "Research Octane" >and the number for a TR-6 was 98 octane. The current rating system uses >a number 5 lower, so the current version of the same performance would >be 93 octane. You have raised the compression, the engine now wants even higher octane gas! > In tuning a car, you always set the valve lash, then the timing, >then adjust the carburetor idle speed and mixture. The Emission Control >Stromberg carbs that came on your car cannot be properly tuned by the >methods that you mentioned. When they are set correctly, raising the >air valve will always cause the engine to stall. The needles and >mixture was set up by the factory for passing emissions tests, not for >performance. The jets must not be worn, the needles must not be worn, >the fuel levels must be set to the proper height, the idle speed must >be correct. The temperature compensators must be in good working >condition, and the idle "throttle by-pass valves" must be working >properly. Then the mixture can be set by raising and lowering the >mixture needles in the air valves. This should be done on an exhaust >analyzer following the instructions in the workshop manual. For >everything to work properly, the vacuum retard must also be working! >This is so because with the ignition retarded to 4 Degrees ATDC, the throttle opening screws on the carburetors have to be screwed down way more to in effect "speed up the idle" >. with everything set properly, if the retard is not working, the >timing will be around 20 degrees BTDC and the engine will idle at 1500 rpm or so. > Sorry, I am sure this is not the answer you wanted to hear!. > It is might be possible to make things work without the retard >applied, but everything else needs to be perfect, and the throttle >by-pass valves on the carburetors will probably have to be modified to >prevent them from opening and bleeding air around the throttle plates >causing the idle to raise up even higher. > > Regards, > > Greg Solow > >The Engine Room >Sports Car Specialists >Santa Cruz, Calif. 95060 >831 429-1800 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca Fri Oct 2 10:12:58 2009 From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 10:12:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Suggestiions Message-ID: Fred,, I've been pleased with Redline's MT-90 in my cars, but have heard their newer product 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil is supposed to work better in older design gear boxes here is a link to their product info. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=47&pcid=7 Both oils are safe with TR syncros. Royal Purple oil are also supposed to be safe in old gear boxes but haven't used their products. Doug Hamilton 1960 TR3A 1963 Fiat Cabriolet 2006 Chrysler Crossfire ( wife's toy ) 2006 Suzuki GSF 1200 2008 Avalanche ( swiss army knife on wheels ) From: FRED E THOMAS To: triumphs Cc: Shop-Talk Mailing List Sent: Thu, Oct 1, 2009 2:13 pm Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the gearbox W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help FT This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From gamerrell at qwest.net Fri Oct 2 10:18:20 2009 From: gamerrell at qwest.net (Glenn Merrell) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 10:18:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] TTA Charity Drive Completes Successfully in San Luis Obispo, UJ for SALE! Message-ID: <4AC627CC.7040805@qwest.net> Hello All. ! In a procession of about 30 Standards and Triumphs, the Triumph Trans America Charity Drive 2009 completed the over 14000 mile drive arriving at the Embassy Suites SLO in just over 90 days, 31 states, 6 provinces, enlightening literally thousands of people to the the cause for awareness of Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. During this drive many hundreds of Triumphs caravaned with John and "UJ" to, from and at the 45 hosts and host clubs. The total British Cars in the caravans will total over 1000 at final count. Current donations for the three Charities is in the $25k range, and this is not the end of collections! Please contribute what you can. And remember, the Stag is also going to be auctioned for charity unless a benefactor steps up and asks "how much do I write the check for and to what charity?". The highest amount to benefit charity wins the title for Uncle Jack. If the car is auctioned, it will appear in an auction site on the TTA web site. I would like to begin the opening bid - since it would be for charity, should be at $40,000.00 USD. Too High? Let me know and we will consider a lower amount, we already have 3-4 people interested starting at $25k. Already donated? We would consider your donation amount as a contribution toward your final bid! UJ is in concours judging this morning, and I expect a very good result indeed! More later! Cheers! Glenn Merrell TTA North American Coordinator From tr4zest at gmail.com Fri Oct 2 14:48:24 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 13:48:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] SLO update Message-ID: I've added a few pictures from the AutoX and Funkhana from San Luis Obispo Triumphest and VTR National Meeting. http://brianjones.tumblr.com/ Ciao, Brian From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 2 15:39:53 2009 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (jholekamp at sbcglobal.net) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 14:39:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] O/D GBX Lubericant Message-ID: <564796.53079.qm@web80405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Since 1967, when I bought my '64 TR4, I've used the factory recommended GBX O/D lubricant; 80w90 gl-4 with excellent results. For more detail about this see: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Gearbox/GearboxLubricant/GearboxLub. htm brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 - now at VTR/TRfest in San Luis Obispo CA From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Oct 2 16:26:07 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 18:26:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] SLO update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: WOW, sounds like a huge turnout for the autox. Wish we could have been there. Who claimed FTD? Marty > Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 13:48:24 -0700 > From: tr4zest at gmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] SLO update > > I've added a few pictures from the AutoX and Funkhana from San Luis Obispo > Triumphest and VTR National Meeting. > http://brianjones.tumblr.com/ > > Ciao, > > Brian > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ From brad.kahler at 141.com Fri Oct 2 16:43:42 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 18:43:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] More parts for sale Message-ID: <4AC6821E.4040503@141.com> Still cleaning house (shop actually). Here are some additional items I have: Spitfire Mk2 / Mk3 seat frames and springs TR3A grille Spitfire Mk1 / Mk2 / Mk3 transmissions Mayflower radiator (working when pulled from car) TR3 metal tunnel cover GT6 frame NOS Herald tail light assemblies - ( 2 assemblies available) TR4 frame I also have a bunch of NOS Lucas parts (mostly TR3) that I found stashed in a box More to come................ Brad 1961 TR4 CT288L From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Oct 2 18:33:19 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 19:33:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Fot] Wayne's TR-6 (FOT?) In-Reply-To: References: <20091002131433.A45D0187643@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20091003003339.4B15A18764F@autox.team.net> It's a invitation-only racing-only Triumph list. We don't talk about what color wire connects to the horn button. :) - Tony Drews At 11:03 AM 10/2/2009, wbeech at flash.net wrote: >Off-Topic from Wayne's TR-6. What the "Friends of Triumph" list for? Is >this another parallel list? > >Bill From mark at bradakis.com Fri Oct 2 19:13:47 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 19:13:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Fot] Wayne's TR-6 (FOT?) In-Reply-To: <20091003003339.4B15A18764F@autox.team.net> References: <20091002131433.A45D0187643@autox.team.net> <20091003003339.4B15A18764F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4AC6A54B.9070106@bradakis.com> Tony Drews wrote: > It's a invitation-only racing-only Triumph list. We don't talk about > what color wire connects to the horn button. :) On a racing Spitfire I bought this wire was yellow. ALL the wires, save the spark plug leads, were yellow. After I rewired there were multiple colors. But oddly enough I used yellow plug wires. Wish I was at VTR! mjb. From pethier at comcast.net Fri Oct 2 19:27:04 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2009 01:27:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] SLO update In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1473342180.1760511254533224876.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I wrote down the top 4: Andy Packard M4 43.21 Steve Glusman M5 46.21 Mike Bilyk S4 47.23 Phil Ethier S4 47.43 Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "marty sukey" wrote: > From: "marty sukey" > To: tr4zest at gmail.com, triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, October 2, 2009 3:26:07 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: [TR] SLO update > > WOW, sounds like a huge turnout for the autox. Wish we could have been > there. > Who claimed FTD? > > Marty > > > Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 13:48:24 -0700 > > From: tr4zest at gmail.com > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: [TR] SLO update > > > > I've added a few pictures from the AutoX and Funkhana from San Luis > Obispo > > Triumphest and VTR National Meeting. > > http://brianjones.tumblr.com/ > > > > Ciao, > > > > Brian > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Fri Oct 2 22:54:53 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (spitlist at cox.net) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 21:54:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] SLO update In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20091003005453.VOS8K.467804.imail@fed1rmwml29> FTD was taken by Andy Packard with a 43 and change. Joe ---- marty sukey wrote: > WOW, sounds like a huge turnout for the autox. Wish we could have been there. > Who claimed FTD? > > Marty > > > Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 13:48:24 -0700 > > From: tr4zest at gmail.com > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: [TR] SLO update > > > > I've added a few pictures from the AutoX and Funkhana from San Luis Obispo > > Triumphest and VTR National Meeting. > > http://brianjones.tumblr.com/ > > > > Ciao, > > > > Brian > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr4zest at gmail.com Sat Oct 3 07:44:05 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2009 06:44:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Friday Update from SLO Message-ID: http://brianjones.tumblr.com/ From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Oct 3 09:55:38 2009 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2009 11:55:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiper motor lube Message-ID: <91EA5D14F2B247C78DFACDCFE0DE92A7@Edscomputer> List, Suggestions please for Lucas wiper motor lube. Gears? Slide? Shaft in housing? TIA, Ed Woods From amfoto1 at aol.com Sat Oct 3 10:24:32 2009 From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Sat, 03 Oct 2009 12:24:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suggestions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC125D1F618132-2A20-28F60@webmail-m037.sysops.aol.com> Hi Fred, This question has come up quite a few times over the years. Specifically for the gearbox WITH overdrive, Triumph originally called for 90wt gear oil, the same as in the non-OD gearbox and diff. However... A lot of people have come to think that's way too heavy for many OD, so a "racing" motor oil (non-detergent) of lighter viscosity is now generally recommended. But I strongly suspect the weight you choose depends on the wear and tear in your particular OD. A higher mileage unit might be able to run 50W (which is roughly equivalent to 90wt gear oil viscosity).? But, that is probably too heavy for a recent rebuild without very much wear. Go to www.quantumechanics.com and see if you can find the tests that John Esposito has done with O/D units. He rebuilds them, so probably knows better than any of us. That also has given him ample opportunity to stress test some units with various oils, something that most of us will never have a chance to do. (I looked quickly at the site and don't see the article about oils... might need to email John.) His recommendation for his freshly rebuilt units is 30W non-detergent (racing). I think 40W might be okay in a car with some wear. Or mix half and half 30W and 40W. John specifically recommended avoiding multi-viscosity oils and any with detergent. Multi-viscosity such as 10W40 were shown to cause lockups. And, detergent oils foam up which isn't good for either gearbox lubrication or for the hydraulics of the OD unit. Personally I'd avoid most synthetic motor oils because many are extended-life formulas with lots of extra detergents. Synthetic or non-synthetic gear oils (non-GL5) might be usable, but - again - for ODs it's probably best not to use the heavier ones like 90wt, unless your's is a really high mileage OD. I'm also a little bit leery of using synthetics with oil-bathed clutches, like those used in the OD unit (and also most motorcycles). However, if formulated for this sort use, like some of Redlines, it will probably be fine so long as it's not too heavy viscosity. The ideal thing would be to pressure test your specific overdrive unit with different weights of oil. The A-type runs somewhere between 450 and 500 psi, if memory serves. So that's what you are shooting for. Too heavy viscosity can cause over-pressurization, and might lock the unit into overdrive. Too light viscosity might under-pressurize and may make the unit sluggish to shift into OD. Gearbox WITHOUT overdrive is another thing entirely. In that case Redline synthetics like MT90 or their 75W90 are good. Non-synthetics in this weight should be fine, too. Whatever you use, just avoid any GL5 formulas. Those have sulfates in them that can attack and eventually damage the brass or bronze parts in the gearbox. The diff uses the same oil as the non-OD gearbox (unless you have a limited slip installed). Off to the Concours at TriumphFest! Alan Myers San Jose, California amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT17602L (a work in progress) http://www.triumphowners.com/640 -----Original Message----- From: FRED E THOMAS To: triumphs Cc: Shop-Talk Mailing List Sent: Thu, Oct 1, 2009 2:13 pm Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the gearbox W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help FT From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Oct 3 12:53:58 2009 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2009 14:53:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Prop shaft removal technique? In-Reply-To: <8CC125D1F618132-2A20-28F60@webmail-m037.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I've got a toasted universal joint in my TR6's driveline. The squealing and then rumbling seems several times faster than wheel speed, so I assume it is in the prop shaft. It's been too long since last I did this job. What is the simplest way to get the prop shaft off the TR-6? Does it make it out the top; the bottom? Can I avoid dismounting the differential, the exhaust? I vaguely seem to recall having tried to get it out once without removing anything else and having failed miserably. Cheers, Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 From mark at bradakis.com Sat Oct 3 13:10:44 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 03 Oct 2009 13:10:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] Prop shaft removal technique? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4AC7A1B4.7060500@bradakis.com> It comes out from the bottom. Most likely you'll have to remove some part of the exhaust system, or at least get it loose enough to force out of the way of sliding the propshaft down and back. mjb. From carlsereda at aol.com Sat Oct 3 13:21:22 2009 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Sat, 03 Oct 2009 12:21:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] SLO update In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Thanks a ton Brian, I've been enjoying your VTR 'cross country blog' and the photos including Triumphest so far have been great! For someone who is not able to make it - a real treat to experience some of the fun. Thanks again, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 I've added a few pictures from the AutoX and Funkhana from San Luis Obispo Triumphest and VTR National Meeting. http://brianjones.tumblr.com/ Ciao, Brian From carlsereda at aol.com Sat Oct 3 13:34:08 2009 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Sat, 03 Oct 2009 12:34:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 469 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1A09BC28.1626.41F0.8A96.2C1FCE552C7A@aol.com> My original wiper motor gear box and slide was heavily laden with the old style hardened grease (carmel color). The shaft in housing bushes are porous bronze which might like a few drops of 3in1 20wt oil (blue can). The gear box and slide could use lithium grease or whatever would be more equivalent to the original stuff (wheel bearing grease?). Rgrds, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Suggestions please for Lucas wiper motor lube. Gears? Slide? Shaft in housing? From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Oct 3 14:33:32 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2009 13:33:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 wire wheel paint color Message-ID: <034C1717-40B2-44A9-940D-4E13BEF03EE6@cox.net> What color paint should I use on my 1960 TR3A wire wheels. I seem to remember it is called Azure Silver? Gloss?? Thanks John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From sinclair at degenkolb.com Sat Oct 3 16:21:28 2009 From: sinclair at degenkolb.com (Mark Sinclair) Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2009 18:21:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Complete 1197cc Engine and Box - SF, CA Message-ID: Hi, I have a complete 1197cc engine and gearbox available, on Craigslist, here. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/1405004927.html Email me if you want more details or picture. Thanks Mark Sinclair 415-286-1578 San Francisco, CA From adcronin at ameritech.net Sat Oct 3 17:45:30 2009 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2009 16:45:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Suggestions In-Reply-To: <8CC125D1F618132-2A20-28F60@webmail-m037.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC125D1F618132-2A20-28F60@webmail-m037.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <971600.4711.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Bet you knew this question would come up---regarding those of us who will be installing or have a limited slip (Quaife)---what is the consensus of which grade and weight oil to use in these applications? Regards, Dan Cronin ________________________________ From: Alan Myers To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, October 3, 2009 12:24:32 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions Hi Fred, This question has come up quite a few times over the years. Specifically for the gearbox WITH overdrive, Triumph originally called for 90wt gear oil, the same as in the non-OD gearbox and diff. However... A lot of people have come to think that's way too heavy for many OD, so a "racing" motor oil (non-detergent) of lighter viscosity is now generally recommended. But I strongly suspect the weight you choose depends on the wear and tear in your particular OD. A higher mileage unit might be able to run 50W (which is roughly equivalent to 90wt gear oil viscosity).? But, that is probably too heavy for a recent rebuild without very much wear. Go to www.quantumechanics.com and see if you can find the tests that John Esposito has done with O/D units. He rebuilds them, so probably knows better than any of us. That also has given him ample opportunity to stress test some units with various oils, something that most of us will never have a chance to do. (I looked quickly at the site and don't see the article about oils... might need to email John.) His recommendation for his freshly rebuilt units is 30W non-detergent (racing). I think 40W might be okay in a car with some wear. Or mix half and half 30W and 40W. John specifically recommended avoiding multi-viscosity oils and any with detergent. Multi-viscosity such as 10W40 were shown to cause lockups. And, detergent oils foam up which isn't good for either gearbox lubrication or for the hydraulics of the OD unit. Personally I'd avoid most synthetic motor oils because many are extended-life formulas with lots of extra detergents. Synthetic or non-synthetic gear oils (non-GL5) might be usable, but - again - for ODs it's probably best not to use the heavier ones like 90wt, unless your's is a really high mileage OD. I'm also a little bit leery of using synthetics with oil-bathed clutches, like those used in the OD unit (and also most motorcycles). However, if formulated for this sort use, like some of Redlines, it will probably be fine so long as it's not too heavy viscosity. The ideal thing would be to pressure test your specific overdrive unit with different weights of oil. The A-type runs somewhere between 450 and 500 psi, if memory serves. So that's what you are shooting for. Too heavy viscosity can cause over-pressurization, and might lock the unit into overdrive. Too light viscosity might under-pressurize and may make the unit sluggish to shift into OD. Gearbox WITHOUT overdrive is another thing entirely. In that case Redline synthetics like MT90 or their 75W90 are good. Non-synthetics in this weight should be fine, too. Whatever you use, just avoid any GL5 formulas. Those have sulfates in them that can attack and eventually damage the brass or bronze parts in the gearbox. The diff uses the same oil as the non-OD gearbox (unless you have a limited slip installed). Off to the Concours at TriumphFest! Alan Myers San Jose, California amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT17602L (a work in progress) http://www.triumphowners.com/640 -----Original Message----- From: FRED E THOMAS To: triumphs Cc: Shop-Talk Mailing List Sent: Thu, Oct 1, 2009 2:13 pm Subject: [TR] Suggestions/ I would like the lists opinion on types/weight etc. of oil used in the gearbox W/OD and rear differential, many thanks for your help FT This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Oct 3 17:49:47 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2009 19:49:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Conversion Message-ID: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> I've already posted this to the Forums and figure I'd also share it with the Mail Lists. If you're thinking of doing the Miata seat conversion for your Triumph, I just updated my site with about 12 pages and 150 pictures showing how it's done. It includes: seat separation, upholstery removal, headrest speaker installation, leather cover installation and mounting brackets. http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sat Oct 3 18:41:55 2009 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sat, 03 Oct 2009 20:41:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suggestions In-Reply-To: <971600.4711.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <8CC125D1F618132-2A20-28F60@webmail-m037.sysops.aol.com> <971600.4711.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0KQY00J5MSM4D68B@vms173015.mailsrvcs.net> At 07:45 PM 10/3/2009, A Daniel Cronin wrote: >Bet you knew this question would come up---regarding those of us who will be >installing or have a limited slip (Quaife)---what is the consensus of which >grade and weight oil to use in these applications? > >Regards, >Dan Cronin Quaife told me that there was no need to run a special lube; I'm running 90wt in mine. jim -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 98.9% finished, 90% to go From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Oct 3 20:47:22 2009 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 03 Oct 2009 22:47:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion.... In-Reply-To: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> References: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <8CC12B421B5D75F-A7C8-16421@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> Bob,?? Nice job on the conversion.? Tony Drews decided not to continue sales?on the TR6 Miata Conversion Kit, and offered it back to us. ?Sean & I have elected to continue the production of the kit. Sean developed the manufacturing processes and supplied the pieces to Jack, anyway, so it makes sense for us to continue the kit if there is a demand. So if anyone wants a kit this winter, lets round up some orders. I have one set one the shelf, in the meantime. We could do 15-25 sets and it would be worthwhile to do. Thanks! Joe & Sean Alexander -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Oct 3, 2009 6:49 pm Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion I've already posted this to the Forums and figure I'd also share it with the Mail Lists. If you're thinking of doing the Miata seat conversion for your Triumph, I just updated my site with about 12 pages and 150 pictures showing how it's done. It includes: seat separation, upholstery removal, headrest speaker installation, leather cover installation and mounting brackets. http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com From don at napanet.net Sat Oct 3 23:59:37 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sat, 03 Oct 2009 22:59:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Easy money? Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20091003224818.03abcbc8@pop.napanet.net> Rough lookin' car, but someone is trying to "flip" it nontheless. Ebay auction hasn't ended yet. Time will tell if it gets flipped over to Europe and the middleman makes some easy money. I just attended a west coast MGA event in Rohnert Park. Twenty cars attended. Nine MGAs. Last weekend I went to a hot rod show in my little town of Calisotoga and there were a couple hundred cars and numerous vendors. That event was a huge success. I remember when there were British sports cars all over California; now they have all gone to other countries. From the sounds of the comments on this auction, this TR3 will also leave the US. >http://bringatrailer.com/2009/10/02/california-survivor-1959-triumph-tr3-a/comment-page-1/#comment-113757 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Don Scott Calistoga CA 2001 Miata SE BRG 1973 MGB GT (for sale) 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk II From emanteno at gmail.com Sun Oct 4 07:31:38 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 08:31:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Easy money? In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20091003224818.03abcbc8@pop.napanet.net> References: <6.0.3.0.1.20091003224818.03abcbc8@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <354a1780910040631j530b4064ia4d8da301046bf9e@mail.gmail.com> On Sun, Oct 4, 2009 at 12:59 AM, don wrote: > > > I remember when there were British sports cars all over California; now > they have all gone to other countries. From the sounds of the comments on > this auction, this TR3 will also leave the US. > > > >> http://bringatrailer.com/2009/10/02/california-survivor-1959-triumph-tr3-a/comment-page-1/#comment-113757 >> > Not all of them. Close to 300 TRiumphs were in San Luis Obispo this past week at TRiumphest/VTR. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From wbeech at flash.net Sun Oct 4 08:16:42 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 08:16:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] Easy money? In-Reply-To: <354a1780910040631j530b4064ia4d8da301046bf9e@mail.gmail.com> References: <6.0.3.0.1.20091003224818.03abcbc8@pop.napanet.net> <354a1780910040631j530b4064ia4d8da301046bf9e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Just curious, does anyone have an educated estimate as to just how many of the 85,000 TR2-3 cars have survived to today? I thought I heard 10,000 somewhere but can't re-call. How many in the US? Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Irv Korey Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 7:32 AM To: don Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Easy money? On Sun, Oct 4, 2009 at 12:59 AM, don wrote: > > > I remember when there were British sports cars all over California; > now they have all gone to other countries. From the sounds of the > comments on this auction, this TR3 will also leave the US. > > > >> http://bringatrailer.com/2009/10/02/california-survivor-1959-triumph- >> tr3-a/comment-page-1/#comment-113757 >> > Not all of them. Close to 300 TRiumphs were in San Luis Obispo this past week at TRiumphest/VTR. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Oct 4 08:25:15 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 10:25:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRA meet Message-ID: Does anybody have the dates of the 2010 TRA meet in Ohio handy? Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ From mlang99 at comcast.net Sun Oct 4 11:03:39 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sun, 04 Oct 2009 10:03:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Easy money? In-Reply-To: References: <6.0.3.0.1.20091003224818.03abcbc8@pop.napanet.net> <354a1780910040631j530b4064ia4d8da301046bf9e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4AC8D56B.40108@comcast.net> I personally don't believe the estimates regarding the number of surviving cars. I know of 3 stored away in buildings within a 50 mile radius that are quietly waiting for restoration. 2 are TR3A's and 1 is a TR2. 2 of these cars would not be difficult to put back on the road, but 1 is probably destined to be a parts car. If there are that many near me, I wonder how many more are stashed away around the country that have fallen off of the radar? Mike TS11544L - On the road again!!! wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Just curious, does anyone have an educated estimate as to just how many of > the 85,000 TR2-3 cars have survived to today? I thought I heard 10,000 > somewhere but can't re-call. How many in the US? > > > >> I remember when there were British sports cars all over California; >> now they have all gone to other countries. From the sounds of the >> comments on this auction, this TR3 will also leave the US. >> >> >> >> >>> http://bringatrailer.com/2009/10/02/california-survivor-1959-triumph- >>> tr3-a/comment-page-1/#comment-113757 >>> >>> > > Not all of them. Close to 300 TRiumphs were in San Luis Obispo this past > week at TRiumphest/VTR. From L1J1S at aol.com Sun Oct 4 13:20:12 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 15:20:12 EDT Subject: [TR] TR-re-easy money Message-ID: i would have to take a educated guess that here on long island and queens, new york there are about ten tr3's including mine. larry schwartz From mathews at uga.edu Sun Oct 4 13:24:28 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Sun, 04 Oct 2009 15:24:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 wire wheel paint color In-Reply-To: <034C1717-40B2-44A9-940D-4E13BEF03EE6@cox.net> References: <034C1717-40B2-44A9-940D-4E13BEF03EE6@cox.net> Message-ID: <4AC8F66C.8020201@uga.edu> I may be confusing them disk wheels, but I seem to rec all argent silver as the color. More informed of this list will let us know if this is incorrect. Doug John A. Wise wrote: > What color paint should I use on my 1960 TR3A wire wheels. I seem to > remember it is called Azure Silver? Gloss?? > > Thanks > > John From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Oct 4 18:21:51 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sun, 04 Oct 2009 20:21:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 wire wheel paint color References: <034C1717-40B2-44A9-940D-4E13BEF03EE6@cox.net> <4AC8F66C.8020201@uga.edu> Message-ID: <96CF5A8339864E1AA7B2219E3DC70C61@fred8kwiskhcfu> Argent is correct, most stores sell it as "wheel silver" =============================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Mathews" To: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net> Cc: "Triumph car discussion Sports" Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 3:24 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 wire wheel paint color >I may be confusing them disk wheels, but I seem to rec all argent silver as >the color. > > More informed of this list will let us know if this is incorrect. > > Doug > John A. Wise wrote: >> What color paint should I use on my 1960 TR3A wire wheels. I seem to >> remember it is called Azure Silver? Gloss?? >> >> Thanks >> >> John > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Oct 4 19:32:23 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 18:32:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Heater for TR3? Message-ID: <812711.15322.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> So at Triumph-fest I was admiring Herman Van Der Akkers TR3 heater installation. He said he got it through JC Whitney. I went to JCWhitney.com and they have no such thing. The only thing that they have that looks like it would work is called "The Mojave Heater", which may or may not fit. Has anyone got a "Mojave Heater" in their TR3? Are there any aftermarket heaters that you can make fit into a TR3? I have been using a Spitfire heater that was held under the dash using electrical tie-ties. It worked ok, but I kept barking my knuckles and it looked like hell. It'll be 38 at my house tonight. Bill in Tehachapi From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 4 19:41:10 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 18:41:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Suggestions In-Reply-To: <8CC125D1F618132-2A20-28F60@webmail-m037.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20091005014111109.UDEQ26368@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> > Specifically for the gearbox WITH overdrive, Triumph > originally called for 90wt gear oil, the same as in the > non-OD gearbox and diff. Actually, until about 1960, Laycock and Triumph specifically warned AGAINST using 'hypoid' oils, and recommended either 30 weight or 50 weight motor oil (depending on ambient temperature). This was documented in the owner's manuals, the A-type service manual, and even a factory service bulletin. Ken Gillanders once reported contacting someone that was involved at the time to find out why the recommendation changed; and was told that Triumph changed without the blessing of Laycock, because they were having too many warranty thrust washer failures in the gearbox. Using gear oil didn't seem to increase _warranty_ failures in the OD. In other words, getting the cars past warranty without expensive repairs was more important to them than long OD life. > The ideal thing would be to pressure test your specific > overdrive unit with different weights of oil. BTDT. Everything from ATF to straight 90 weight made no appreciable difference to the pressure, in either an A-type or J-type. See, the thing is, they both have relief valves that regulate the pressure. The opening from the relief valve is as large as the intake opening to the pump, so no matter how thick the oil, the relief valve always stays in control. (The oil flowing into the pump has only 15 psi or so to push it in; while the relief valve has some 400 psi pushing it out.) The only possible exception to this would be if an errant rebuilder has tried to shim up the pressure so much that the springs run into coil bind before the relief port is fully uncovered (also BTDT). Or if dirt/grit gets caught in the relief valve (ditto). > The A-type runs > somewhere between 450 and 500 psi, if memory serves. Depends on the application, and which style of A-type. The later non-IRS TR ones ran lower pressure. > Whatever > you use, just avoid any GL5 formulas. Those have sulfates in > them that can attack and eventually damage the brass or > bronze parts in the gearbox. More correctly, _some_ of them have sulfur-based additives that can attack "yellow metal" parts. Even many GL4 oils use that additive; it's what gives used gear oil that distinctive "rotten eggs" odor. The warning against GL5 is because _some_ GL5 oils use more of it in order to meet the GL5 specification. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Sun Oct 4 20:11:29 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 19:11:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Complete 1197cc Engine and Box - SF, CA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You mean 1147, don't you? Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Sinclair Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 3:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spitfire Complete 1197cc Engine and Box - SF, CA Hi, I have a complete 1197cc engine and gearbox available, on Craigslist, here. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/1405004927.html Email me if you want more details or picture. Thanks Mark Sinclair 415-286-1578 San Francisco, CA This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Oct 4 20:18:48 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 19:18:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo - On a Lighter Note... Message-ID: <795502.46031.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I disconnected the cable from my speedo in anticipation on sending it to West Valley Instrument to have it serviced and the cable length and size modified by Morris. The speedo had been fluctuating wildly from about 20 to 80 mph. Now, without the speedo cable attached, my speedo accelerates to about 50 mph when I went down the freeway! This is the most accurate it has ever been! WTF?!?!? I have not a clue how the speedo can read without a cable attached. I am wondering what else affects it. Maybe magnetism from the tachometer? Air pressure coming in the speedo cable hole? Hallucinogenic drug abuse? Has anyone else experienced this? Anyway, it made me laugh. Bill in Tehachapi From kvacek at ameritech.net Sun Oct 4 20:44:05 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 21:44:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Heater for TR3? References: <812711.15322.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8B3D7EF8F7F54624B84E0E1BB9A0EF80@KARL> TSF130L had a round Smiths heater in it when I bought it as a 2-year-old car, in 1965. I always thought it was original (??) The same ones are found in T-series MG's, not as factory installations but as common additions. Also available are the Arnolt heaters, a period accessory originally manufactured for S.H.Arnolt Company in Chicago, a large British car importer and accessory distributor in the late 1940's through early 1960's. Moss currently sells (or at least recently sold) a reproduction of this heater - it's a steel box, roughly a cube. Both the original Smiths and Arnolt heaters show up on eBay occasionally, and I think there's a Moss repro on there right now. Karl > So at Triumph-fest I was admiring Herman Van Der Akkers TR3 heater > installation. He said he got it through JC Whitney. I went to > JCWhitney.com > and they have no such thing. The only thing that they have that looks like > it > would work is called "The Mojave Heater", which may or may not fit. Has > anyone > got a "Mojave Heater" in their TR3? Are there any aftermarket heaters > that you can make fit into a TR3? From tr4zest at gmail.com Sun Oct 4 21:50:41 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 20:50:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] An alarm for your TR for $25, and I'm headed home. Message-ID: http://brianjones.tumblr.com/ From wbeech at flash.net Sun Oct 4 23:02:21 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 23:02:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo - On a Lighter Note... In-Reply-To: <795502.46031.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <795502.46031.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Probably #3. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 8:19 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo - On a Lighter Note... I disconnected the cable from my speedo in anticipation on sending it to West Valley Instrument to have it serviced and the cable length and size modified by Morris. The speedo had been fluctuating wildly from about 20 to 80 mph. Now, without the speedo cable attached, my speedo accelerates to about 50 mph when I went down the freeway! This is the most accurate it has ever been! WTF?!?!? I have not a clue how the speedo can read without a cable attached. I am wondering what else affects it. Maybe magnetism from the tachometer? Air pressure coming in the speedo cable hole? Hallucinogenic drug abuse? Has anyone else experienced this? Anyway, it made me laugh. Bill in Tehachapi This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Oct 5 05:04:03 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 07:04:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing In-Reply-To: References: <91399C397F624E09988273A0E65B742B@Scott> Message-ID: <9D6E992530CC41A1817E63A5CE22C21C@Scott> Andrew: I did a bit of a dry run with the glazing (this is rubber and not the original cloth like material that was used by the factory) and found it very hard to avoid all binding on the corners. It would require lots of cuts and removal of rubber. Would you think it could be okay to only place the glazing on the straight sections of the windscreen (sides, top and bottom) and not do the corners? Other Lister's experience in doing this? Thanks. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard [mailto:auprichard at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 7:33 AM To: 'Scott Suhring'; 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing I used epoxy to glue the glazing to the glass (trim at the corners) and then a lot of soap and water to get it into the frame. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Suhring Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 6:46 AM To: Triumph Mail List Subject: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing I am curious if there is any advice on best to install the rubber glazing around the windscreen and fitting this into the frame. Seems like a tight fit. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 _______________________________________________ From dlylis at gmail.com Mon Oct 5 05:47:15 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 11:47:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo - On a Lighter Note... In-Reply-To: References: <795502.46031.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I vote for #3 as well. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 23:02:21 To: 'William Brewer'; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Speedo - On a Lighter Note... Probably #3. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 8:19 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedo - On a Lighter Note... I disconnected the cable from my speedo in anticipation on sending it to West Valley Instrument to have it serviced and the cable length and size modified by Morris. The speedo had been fluctuating wildly from about 20 to 80 mph. Now, without the speedo cable attached, my speedo accelerates to about 50 mph when I went down the freeway! This is the most accurate it has ever been! WTF?!?!? I have not a clue how the speedo can read without a cable attached. I am wondering what else affects it. Maybe magnetism from the tachometer? Air pressure coming in the speedo cable hole? Hallucinogenic drug abuse? Has anyone else experienced this? Anyway, it made me laugh. Bill in Tehachapi This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Oct 5 06:13:33 2009 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 05 Oct 2009 05:13:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing In-Reply-To: <9D6E992530CC41A1817E63A5CE22C21C@Scott> References: <91399C397F624E09988273A0E65B742B@Scott> <9D6E992530CC41A1817E63A5CE22C21C@Scott> Message-ID: <4AC9E2ED.3030400@gmail.com> Scott Suhring wrote: > I did a bit of a dry run with the glazing (this is rubber and not the > original cloth like material that was used by the factory) and found it very > hard to avoid all binding on the corners. It would require lots of cuts and > removal of rubber. Would you think it could be okay to only place the > glazing on the straight sections of the windscreen (sides, top and bottom) > and not do the corners? Other Lister's experience in doing this? Thanks. > After hours with nothing to show but sticky glazing goo all over the place and an incomplete project I went to my local automotive window replacing company and had it done. Fast, cheap & no mess ... the second time. If that job needs doing again on my TR or my Land Rover, without hesitation I will let the pros do it Teriann '61 TR3A 60 Land Rover From ms6453 at optonline.net Mon Oct 5 06:57:22 2009 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Mon, 05 Oct 2009 08:57:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion.... In-Reply-To: <8CC12B421B5D75F-A7C8-16421@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> References: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> <8CC12B421B5D75F-A7C8-16421@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <45063EA737164FEA9F74DBE45FA4E7EF@marcydesk> What is the price for the conversion tracks? Do they keep the seats low & allow full movement. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 10:47 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion.... > Bob,?? Nice job on the conversion.? > > > > Tony Drews decided not to continue sales?on the TR6 Miata Conversion Kit, > and offered it back to us. ?Sean & I have elected to continue the > production of the kit. Sean developed the manufacturing processes and > supplied the pieces to Jack, anyway, so it makes sense for us to continue > the kit if there is a demand. > > > > So if anyone wants a kit this winter, lets round up some orders. I have > one set one the shelf, in the meantime. We could do 15-25 sets and it > would be worthwhile to do. > > > Thanks! > > > > Joe & Sean Alexander > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Oct 3, 2009 6:49 pm > Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion > > > > > I've already posted this to the Forums and figure I'd also share it with > the > Mail Lists. If you're thinking of doing the Miata seat conversion for your > Triumph, I just updated my site with about 12 pages and 150 pictures > showing > how it's done. It includes: seat separation, upholstery removal, headrest > speaker installation, leather cover installation and mounting brackets. > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as ms6453 at optonline.net _______ Mitch Seff Brite Do-it best Hardware Locksmiths-Industrial supply 112-15 Jamaica Ave 718-849-8121 Fax 718-849-8567 www.brite.doitbest.com brithard at optonline.net From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Oct 5 07:57:47 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 09:57:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing In-Reply-To: <9D6E992530CC41A1817E63A5CE22C21C@Scott> References: <91399C397F624E09988273A0E65B742B@Scott> <9D6E992530CC41A1817E63A5CE22C21C@Scott> Message-ID: <0B1C416A1A3645999255A0F6B1B2CBAC@DCH6RFC1> I worked with the cloth materials which I think you can get from Moss, so I cannot address using rubber. Since the purpose of the glazing is a tight seal, I see no issue with avoiding the corners except for the risk of small gaps and rain getting in. But given all the other gaps in a TR3, I don't know if that's a problem. I saw the posting about going to the experts, but I've heard of experts breaking the glass and ruining the window frame. Your call. Good luck! Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Scott Suhring [mailto:suhringtr36 at comcast.net] Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 7:04 AM To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing Andrew: I did a bit of a dry run with the glazing (this is rubber and not the original cloth like material that was used by the factory) and found it very hard to avoid all binding on the corners. It would require lots of cuts and removal of rubber. Would you think it could be okay to only place the glazing on the straight sections of the windscreen (sides, top and bottom) and not do the corners? Other Lister's experience in doing this? Thanks. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard [mailto:auprichard at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 7:33 AM To: 'Scott Suhring'; 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing I used epoxy to glue the glazing to the glass (trim at the corners) and then a lot of soap and water to get it into the frame. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Suhring Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 6:46 AM To: Triumph Mail List Subject: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing I am curious if there is any advice on best to install the rubber glazing around the windscreen and fitting this into the frame. Seems like a tight fit. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 5 08:10:52 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 07:10:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing In-Reply-To: <4AC9E2ED.3030400@gmail.com> Message-ID: <20091005141051645.DTLQ26368@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> > If that job needs doing again on my TR or my Land Rover, without > hesitation I will let the pros do it Amen! In addition, they had the glazing material on hand in various thicknesses, so they were able to choose the one that fit properly. Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 5 09:06:44 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 10:06:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing References: <91399C397F624E09988273A0E65B742B@Scott><9D6E992530CC41A1817E63A5CE22C21C@Scott> <0B1C416A1A3645999255A0F6B1B2CBAC@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: i had an expert put in my windshield. and it leaks. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: "'Scott Suhring'" ; "'Triumph Mail List'" Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 8:57 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing >I worked with the cloth materials which I think you can get from Moss, so I > cannot address using rubber. Since the purpose of the glazing is a tight > seal, I see no issue with avoiding the corners except for the risk of > small > gaps and rain getting in. But given all the other gaps in a TR3, I don't > know if that's a problem. > > I saw the posting about going to the experts, but I've heard of experts > breaking the glass and ruining the window frame. Your call. Good luck! > > Andrew From chandler.rick at comcast.net Mon Oct 5 09:34:17 2009 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 08:34:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gear Oils for Triumphs Message-ID: <66FDB6707DDB429491FADEBFE07A6209@ricksoffice> The problem of gear oils in vintage gearboxes with bronze or brass bearings or synchronizers exists in spades with vintage British motorcycles. The Norton community has thoroughly thrashed this out, and the conclusion follows Randall's recent comment on GL-5 oils, namely, that most, but not all, GL-5 oils are perfectly safe to use in our gearboxes. In particular, Redline Technical Services unambiguously maintains that NONE of their gear oils, including GL-5, corrode copper-bearing parts at temperatures below 150C. Their NS series is specific to synchronized transmissions, and I use it in my TR3A. But for my 2-legged mounts, any of the Redline GL-5 products work well. Redline is a serious company that is genuinely interested in servicing the vintage automotive market. And no, I have no interest in Redline, other than being pleased that they are there for us. Rick Chandler 2414 73rd Avenue SE Mercer Island WA 98040 Home 206 236 8662 Cell 206 909 8408 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] From pethier at comcast.net Mon Oct 5 09:40:52 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 09:40:52 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] TRA meet Message-ID: <4895378.2101254757245547.JavaMail.jboss@mobi-web-02.ss-phl.comcastonline.com> /t20NFN: Permission denied From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Oct 5 10:04:41 2009 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 05 Oct 2009 09:04:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Windscreen glazing In-Reply-To: References: <91399C397F624E09988273A0E65B742B@Scott><9D6E992530CC41A1817E63A5CE22C21C@Scott> <0B1C416A1A3645999255A0F6B1B2CBAC@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <4ACA1919.7090801@gmail.com> oliver wrote: > i had an expert put in my windshield. and it leaks. > That happened with one of the roof windows in my Land Rover Dormobile. I just took it back and they resealed it for free. It doesn't leak anymore. Teriann From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Oct 5 10:17:13 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 12:17:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRA meet In-Reply-To: <4895378.2101254757245547.JavaMail.jboss@mobi-web-02.ss-phl.comcastonline.com> References: <4895378.2101254757245547.JavaMail.jboss@mobi-web-02.ss-phl.comcastonline.com> Message-ID: I got a reply that it is June 16-20. You can bring what ever you want. Evelyn and I brought the TR8 this year. Marty From: pethier at comcast.net To: trmarty at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TRA meet Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 08:40:45 -0700 I seem to remember July but I'm not very reliable. That types of car can you bring to this event? _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Mon Oct 5 10:57:33 2009 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 12:57:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR-re-easy money In-Reply-To: Message-ID: The West Island of Montreal has many. There is a Spitfire, Morgan, 2CV and my TR-6 within the 10 houses up our street. And those are what I know of. I will see 5+ TR-6s driving by on a typical week-end. There must be hundreds of LBCs in the rest of the suburbs around here. Mark -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com Sent: October 4, 2009 3:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR-re-easy money i would have to take a educated guess that here on long island and queens, new york there are about ten tr3's including mine. larry schwartz From spitlist at cox.net Mon Oct 5 11:20:01 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 10:20:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gear Oils for Triumphs In-Reply-To: <66FDB6707DDB429491FADEBFE07A6209@ricksoffice> References: <66FDB6707DDB429491FADEBFE07A6209@ricksoffice> Message-ID: I run Redline MTL in my OD Spit gearbox and have had great results. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 8:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Gear Oils for Triumphs The problem of gear oils in vintage gearboxes with bronze or brass bearings or synchronizers exists in spades with vintage British motorcycles. The Norton community has thoroughly thrashed this out, and the conclusion follows Randall's recent comment on GL-5 oils, namely, that most, but not all, GL-5 oils are perfectly safe to use in our gearboxes. In particular, Redline Technical Services unambiguously maintains that NONE of their gear oils, including GL-5, corrode copper-bearing parts at temperatures below 150C. Their NS series is specific to synchronized transmissions, and I use it in my TR3A. But for my 2-legged mounts, any of the Redline GL-5 products work well. Redline is a serious company that is genuinely interested in servicing the vintage automotive market. And no, I have no interest in Redline, other than being pleased that they are there for us. Rick Chandler 2414 73rd Avenue SE Mercer Island WA 98040 Home 206 236 8662 Cell 206 909 8408 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Mon Oct 5 12:09:46 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 11:09:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention Message-ID: I checked my mileage after getting home and I am proud to report that my Avalanche got 13 MPG. While that probably doesn't sound all that good, if you figure in that I was towing a trailer with two Spits, you can multiply the 13 times three and come up with 39 MPG cumulative to get three vehicles there and back. It was a great convention with a lot of cars and people from back east and the other side of the pond that I have not met before. It was also good to see others that I only see every few years. What a great bunch of people we have in the Triumph community! I would like to go to GA next year but it probably is not in the cards. However I am looking forward to Breckenridge, CO in 2011. Cheers, Joe From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Oct 5 12:27:58 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 14:27:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TRA meet In-Reply-To: References: <4895378.2101254757245547.JavaMail.jboss@mobi-web-02.ss-phl.comcastonline.com> Message-ID: <20091005142758.CSV10791@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Marty wrote: > I got a reply that it is June 16-20. You can bring what > ever you want. I want to bring a DB9. Don't have one though. What should I do? There are several around the corner at the dealer. Can I bring one of them? -- Jim Muller '70 GT6+ '80 Spitfire 1500 From spitlist at cox.net Mon Oct 5 13:27:10 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 12:27:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRA meet In-Reply-To: <20091005142758.CSV10791@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <4895378.2101254757245547.JavaMail.jboss@mobi-web-02.ss-phl.comcastonline.com> <20091005142758.CSV10791@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <37A9FE673DDB4514A68913D5E0BE0112@joepentiumnew> Buy yourself a Vanquish. I know that high rollers like yourself can certainly afford one! :) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 11:28 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TRA meet Marty wrote: > I got a reply that it is June 16-20. You can bring what > ever you want. I want to bring a DB9. Don't have one though. What should I do? There are several around the corner at the dealer. Can I bring one of them? -- Jim Muller '70 GT6+ '80 Spitfire 1500 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 5 13:50:03 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 12:50:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRA meet In-Reply-To: <20091005142758.CSV10791@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <20091005195003482.GMYA22985@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> > Can I bring one of them? As always, you can try. You'll just have the extra added spice of being on the run from the law as well as the Prince of Darkness. Randall From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 5 14:34:47 2009 From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (Rodney Trunnell) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 13:34:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Advance Auto-wire Message-ID: <933755.99879.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Has anyone on the list made contact with Advance auto-wire recently. I have tried to contact them to order a wiring harness for my TR3. No replies to email yet. I called the phone number given but from the voicemail message I do not know if the number was for Advance auto-wire or not. Thanks Rod Trunnell TR3B TCF1037l From areich at telus.net Mon Oct 5 16:04:41 2009 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Mon, 05 Oct 2009 15:04:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Need help in California - Atrcata Message-ID: <4ACA6D79.40309@telus.net> Greetings Just blew a head gasket on TR3 on way back to Vancouver Canada from Triumphest! Stopped at Days Inn in Arcata - North of Eureka Can anybody help ..need gasket or suggetsion where and how ..have cell phone 619-906-9490 We have all the tools, know-how and manpower ... need GASKET!!! Allan Reich 1960 TR3A From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Oct 5 16:37:59 2009 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 05 Oct 2009 18:37:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Heater for TR3? In-Reply-To: <8B3D7EF8F7F54624B84E0E1BB9A0EF80@KARL> References: <812711.15322.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <8B3D7EF8F7F54624B84E0E1BB9A0EF80@KARL> Message-ID: If you have upgraded electricals: 12 Volt Rubberized Heater with Fan http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96144 I like the idea that it is portable and you can re-direct to the windshield to defog. C ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karl Vacek" To: "William Brewer" ; "Triumphs" Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 10:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Aftermarket Heater for TR3? > TSF130L had a round Smiths heater in it when I bought it as a 2-year-old > car, in 1965. I always thought it was original (??) > > The same ones are found in T-series MG's, not as factory installations but > as common additions. > > Also available are the Arnolt heaters, a period accessory originally > manufactured for S.H.Arnolt Company in Chicago, a large British car > importer and accessory distributor in the late 1940's through early > 1960's. Moss currently sells (or at least recently sold) a reproduction > of this heater - it's a steel box, roughly a cube. > > Both the original Smiths and Arnolt heaters show up on eBay occasionally, > and I think there's a Moss repro on there right now. > > Karl > > > > >> So at Triumph-fest I was admiring Herman Van Der Akkers TR3 heater >> installation. He said he got it through JC Whitney. I went to >> JCWhitney.com >> and they have no such thing. The only thing that they have that looks >> like it >> would work is called "The Mojave Heater", which may or may not fit. Has >> anyone >> got a "Mojave Heater" in their TR3? Are there any aftermarket >> heaters >> that you can make fit into a TR3? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Oct 5 16:52:25 2009 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 17:52:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gear Oils for Triumphs References: <66FDB6707DDB429491FADEBFE07A6209@ricksoffice> Message-ID: <179095A56F7848E29748E9CA6550BD7A@yourpd3mh0abgs> " But for my 2-legged mounts, any of the Redline GL-5 products work well." i thought that was a K-Y or trojan product...... does redline know what you are using their oils for??? ;-) Best, Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick" To: Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 10:34 AM Subject: [TR] Gear Oils for Triumphs > The problem of gear oils in vintage gearboxes with bronze or brass > bearings > or synchronizers exists in spades with vintage British motorcycles. The > Norton community has thoroughly thrashed this out, and the conclusion > follows Randall's recent comment on GL-5 oils, namely, that most, but not > all, GL-5 oils are perfectly safe to use in our gearboxes. In particular, > Redline Technical Services unambiguously maintains that NONE of their gear > oils, including GL-5, corrode copper-bearing parts at temperatures below > 150C. Their NS series is specific to synchronized transmissions, and I use > it in my TR3A. But for my 2-legged mounts, any of the Redline GL-5 > products > work well. Redline is a serious company that is genuinely interested in > servicing the vintage automotive market. And no, I have no interest in > Redline, other than being pleased that they are there for us. > > > > > > > > > > > > > Rick Chandler > > 2414 73rd Avenue SE > > Mercer Island WA 98040 > > Home 206 236 8662 > > Cell 206 909 8408 > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > image001.jpg] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From kvacek at ameritech.net Mon Oct 5 17:16:07 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 18:16:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Heater for TR3? References: <812711.15322.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <8B3D7EF8F7F54624B84E0E1BB9A0EF80@KARL> Message-ID: That might be OK for demisting, but I really doubt it'd do much to warm even a well-sealed car let alone a drafty TR. Remember you're only working with 12 volts and consider the power necessary to make any meaningful amount of heat. A little 1,500-watt electric room heater will warm a parked car pretty well, but what can you get out of maybe 1/10 that wattage ?? There are lots of btu's coming out of even a small heater core like the Smiths or Arnolt ones. It does happen to be on sale though - I just saw it in today's HF sale e-mail for $9.99 Karl > If you have upgraded electricals: > 12 Volt Rubberized Heater with Fan > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96144 > I like the idea that it is portable and you can re-direct to the > windshield to defog. > > C > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Karl Vacek" > To: "William Brewer" ; "Triumphs" > > Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 10:44 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Aftermarket Heater for TR3? > > >> TSF130L had a round Smiths heater in it when I bought it as a 2-year-old >> car, in 1965. I always thought it was original (??) >> >> The same ones are found in T-series MG's, not as factory installations >> but as common additions. >> >> Also available are the Arnolt heaters, a period accessory originally >> manufactured for S.H.Arnolt Company in Chicago, a large British car >> importer and accessory distributor in the late 1940's through early >> 1960's. Moss currently sells (or at least recently sold) a reproduction >> of this heater - it's a steel box, roughly a cube. >> >> Both the original Smiths and Arnolt heaters show up on eBay occasionally, >> and I think there's a Moss repro on there right now. >> >> Karl >> >> >> >> >>> So at Triumph-fest I was admiring Herman Van Der Akkers TR3 heater >>> installation. He said he got it through JC Whitney. I went to >>> JCWhitney.com >>> and they have no such thing. The only thing that they have that looks >>> like it >>> would work is called "The Mojave Heater", which may or may not fit. Has >>> anyone >>> got a "Mojave Heater" in their TR3? Are there any aftermarket >>> heaters >>> that you can make fit into a TR3? >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Oct 5 18:05:19 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 20:05:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Advance Auto-wire In-Reply-To: <933755.99879.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <933755.99879.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Dan Masters turned the business over to Steve Carrington over a year ago after Dan's son Mike, who was running the business, died. Dan has now completely removed his name from the AAW web site. The consensus in 6-Pack, which I shared with Dan about a month ago, was that no one should order without speaking directly to Steve and working out a partial payment schedule based on him meeting key dates. It's sad to say but 6-Pack has put them on the "vendor to avoid" list. What's even more sad is that there are a bunch of us on this Mail List who have had this wonderful harness for a number of years......it will be 5 years next month since I installed it in my TR6. This is supposed to be Steve's phone number 616-889-9707. I really hope he can turn the business around and keep supplying this quality product to the Triumph & MG communities. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rodney Trunnell Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 4:35 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Advance Auto-wire Has anyone on the list made contact with Advance auto-wire recently. I have tried to contact them to order a wiring harness for my TR3. No replies to email yet. I called the phone number given but from the voicemail message I do not know if the number was for Advance auto-wire or not. Thanks Rod Trunnell TR3B TCF1037l This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 5 18:26:53 2009 From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (Rodney Trunnell) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 17:26:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Advance Auto-wire In-Reply-To: References: <933755.99879.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <564225.17242.qm@web81408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Bob Thanks for the update. I was already considering building my own power center but thought that by the time that I sources the parts that I would be time and money ahead to just purchase one. I may have to look more seriously at doing my own. Thanks Rod ________________________________ From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: Rodney Trunnell ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, October 5, 2009 5:05:19 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Advance Auto-wire Dan Masters turned the business over to Steve Carrington over a year ago after Dan's son Mike, who was running the business, died. Dan has now completely removed his name from the AAW web site. The consensus in 6-Pack, which I shared with Dan about a month ago, was that no one should order without speaking directly to Steve and working out a partial payment schedule based on him meeting key dates. It's sad to say but 6-Pack has put them on the "vendor to avoid" list. What's even more sad is that there are a bunch of us on this Mail List who have had this wonderful harness for a number of years......it will be 5 years next month since I installed it in my TR6. This is supposed to be Steve's phone number 616-889-9707. I really hope he can turn the business around and keep supplying this quality product to the Triumph & MG communities. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rodney Trunnell Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 4:35 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Advance Auto-wire Has anyone on the list made contact with Advance auto-wire recently. I have tried to contact them to order a wiring harness for my TR3. No replies to email yet. I called the phone number given but from the voicemail message I do not know if the number was for Advance auto-wire or not. Thanks Rod Trunnell TR3B TCF1037l This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Mon Oct 5 18:39:09 2009 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 17:39:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001201ca461d$6bad0ee0$43072ca0$@rr.com> Joe and All, My wife shocked me on the way home from TFest and wanted to know if we could go to Jekyl Island next year!!! A left coast to right coast trip sounds fun but don't think 2400 miles each way is in the cards for us either, but it's definite for Breckenridge. Did anybody get a date? August was all I heard, at least that's what I thought I heard for after sitting in a chair for 4 hours at the banquet. Anyway, we had a blast. Great event. Can't wait for Del Mar! Pattie & Johnnie > > I would like to go to GA next year but it probably is not in the cards. > However I am looking forward to Breckenridge, CO in 2011. > > Cheers, > Joe From spitlist at cox.net Mon Oct 5 18:46:41 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 17:46:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: <001201ca461d$6bad0ee0$43072ca0$@rr.com> References: <001201ca461d$6bad0ee0$43072ca0$@rr.com> Message-ID: There was a date announced, but as I recall it was in October. I remember that because it was conflicting with The Triumphest event in San Diego. Joe -----Original Message----- From: John & Pat Donnelly [mailto:pdonnel1 at san.rr.com] Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 5:39 PM To: 'Joe Curry'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention Joe and All, My wife shocked me on the way home from TFest and wanted to know if we could go to Jekyl Island next year!!! A left coast to right coast trip sounds fun but don't think 2400 miles each way is in the cards for us either, but it's definite for Breckenridge. Did anybody get a date? August was all I heard, at least that's what I thought I heard for after sitting in a chair for 4 hours at the banquet. Anyway, we had a blast. Great event. Can't wait for Del Mar! Pattie & Johnnie > > I would like to go to GA next year but it probably is not in the cards. > However I am looking forward to Breckenridge, CO in 2011. > > Cheers, > Joe From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Oct 5 19:06:35 2009 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 18:06:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Advance Auto-wire In-Reply-To: References: <933755.99879.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <884741.20449.qm@web111620.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> i just bought a harness for my tr3 from British wire. http://www.britishwiring.com/ i like the product it was well made and fit great. i wanted an extra wire run in the loom to go from the A1 terminal to my electric fan. it cost $15.00 extra. they said it would take 6 weeks for a custom loom and it shipped in 5 weeks. bullet connectors in place. spades as needed even had the high beam light socket as part of the deal. all in all a great service and product. Frank Fisher ________________________________ From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: Rodney Trunnell ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, October 5, 2009 5:05:19 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Advance Auto-wire Dan Masters turned the business over to Steve Carrington over a year ago after Dan's son Mike, who was running the business, died. Dan has now completely removed his name from the AAW web site. The consensus in 6-Pack, which I shared with Dan about a month ago, was that no one should order without speaking directly to Steve and working out a partial payment schedule based on him meeting key dates. It's sad to say but 6-Pack has put them on the "vendor to avoid" list. What's even more sad is that there are a bunch of us on this Mail List who have had this wonderful harness for a number of years......it will be 5 years next month since I installed it in my TR6. This is supposed to be Steve's phone number 616-889-9707. I really hope he can turn the business around and keep supplying this quality product to the Triumph & MG communities. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rodney Trunnell Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 4:35 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Advance Auto-wire Has anyone on the list made contact with Advance auto-wire recently. I have tried to contact them to order a wiring harness for my TR3. No replies to email yet. I called the phone number given but from the voicemail message I do not know if the number was for Advance auto-wire or not. Thanks Rod Trunnell TR3B TCF1037l This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team..net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Oct 5 20:11:25 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 05 Oct 2009 21:11:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion.... In-Reply-To: <45063EA737164FEA9F74DBE45FA4E7EF@marcydesk> References: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> <8CC12B421B5D75F-A7C8-16421@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> <45063EA737164FEA9F74DBE45FA4E7EF@marcydesk> Message-ID: <20091006021144.0581218764A@autox.team.net> I've got 3 kits left, and it sounds like Joe and Sean Alexander is taking over production after that. They are $59.95 plus $10 shipping for both seats in the TR-6. They use the seat adjusters from the Miata. The seat is low enough that depending on the seat pan you may need to dimple it a little. It allows the full range of adjustment. All of the bracketry is powder coated, and it comes with enough nuts / bolts / washers to perform the full install. Of course, you need to source the Miata seats. From what I've read, the earliest seats to the latest seats all have the same mounting pattern - the Miata guys grab seats from a late model car for earlier cars. - Tony Drews At 07:57 AM 10/5/2009, Mitch wrote: >What is the price for the conversion tracks? Do they keep the >seats low & allow full movement. >----- Original Message ----- From: >To: <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; ; ><6pack at autox.team.net> >Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 10:47 PM >Subject: Re: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion.... > > >>Bob,?? Nice job on the conversion.? >> >> >> >>Tony Drews decided not to continue sales?on the TR6 Miata >>Conversion Kit, and offered it back to us. ?Sean & I have elected >>to continue the production of the kit. Sean developed the >>manufacturing processes and supplied the pieces to Jack, anyway, so >>it makes sense for us to continue the kit if there is a demand. >> >> >> >>So if anyone wants a kit this winter, lets round up some orders. I >>have one set one the shelf, in the meantime. We could do 15-25 sets >>and it would be worthwhile to do. >> >> >>Thanks! >> >> >> >>Joe & Sean Alexander >> >> >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> >>To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net >>Sent: Sat, Oct 3, 2009 6:49 pm >>Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion >> >> >> >> >>I've already posted this to the Forums and figure I'd also share it with the >>Mail Lists. If you're thinking of doing the Miata seat conversion for your >>Triumph, I just updated my site with about 12 pages and 150 pictures showing >>how it's done. It includes: seat separation, upholstery removal, headrest >>speaker installation, leather cover installation and mounting brackets. >>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm >> >>Bob >> >>Bob Danielson >>1975 TR6 CF38503U >>Running w/ Throttle Body Injection >>Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD >>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org >>6pack at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >>http://www.team.net/archive >> >>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >>6pack at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >>http://www.team.net/archive >> >>You are subscribed as ms6453 at optonline.net > > > >_______ > >Mitch Seff >Brite Do-it best Hardware >Locksmiths-Industrial supply >112-15 Jamaica Ave >718-849-8121 Fax 718-849-8567 >www.brite.doitbest.com >brithard at optonline.net >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > >http://www.team.net/archive From emanteno at gmail.com Mon Oct 5 21:49:56 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 22:49:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: References: <001201ca461d$6bad0ee0$43072ca0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <354a1780910052049m437c608bv9d38777c6e823ed9@mail.gmail.com> On Mon, Oct 5, 2009 at 7:46 PM, Joe Curry wrote: > There was a date announced, but as I recall it was in October. I remember > that because it was conflicting with The Triumphest event in San Diego. With all due respect, Joe, I'm thinking the October date is next year in Georgia. I don't think there is any way they could schedule a VTR for Breckinridge in October, they are already getting snow. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From pfischer at rmi.net Mon Oct 5 22:20:15 2009 From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 23:20:15 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention Message-ID: <1985553.1254802816069.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Gentlemen, Jekyll Island GA Oct 2010, a week after Triumphest. Breckenridge is 2011 in July or August. Pat Fischer -----Original Message----- >From: Irv Korey >Sent: Oct 5, 2009 10:49 PM >To: Joe Curry >Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention > >On Mon, Oct 5, 2009 at 7:46 PM, Joe Curry wrote: > >> There was a date announced, but as I recall it was in October. I remember >> that because it was conflicting with The Triumphest event in San Diego. > > >With all due respect, Joe, I'm thinking the October date is next year in >Georgia. I don't think there is any way they could schedule a VTR for >Breckinridge in October, they are already getting snow. > >Irv Korey >74 TR6 CF22767U >Highland Park, IL From spitlist at cox.net Mon Oct 5 22:37:55 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 21:37:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: <354a1780910052049m437c608bv9d38777c6e823ed9@mail.gmail.com> References: <001201ca461d$6bad0ee0$43072ca0$@rr.com> <354a1780910052049m437c608bv9d38777c6e823ed9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <444195E42A1345DDA778DD79964A22AF@joepentiumnew> I stand corrected. I thought the date being discussed was the GA event! I guess I haven't yet recovered from my 11.5 hour drive home yesterday! Cheers, Joe _____ From: Irv Korey [mailto:emanteno at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 8:50 PM To: Joe Curry Cc: John & Pat Donnelly; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention On Mon, Oct 5, 2009 at 7:46 PM, Joe Curry wrote: There was a date announced, but as I recall it was in October. I remember that because it was conflicting with The Triumphest event in San Diego. With all due respect, Joe, I'm thinking the October date is next year in Georgia. I don't think there is any way they could schedule a VTR for Breckinridge in October, they are already getting snow. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Oct 5 22:34:54 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 06 Oct 2009 00:34:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Report from British Legends Message-ID: <4ACA90AE.25552.4901743E@localhost> This past weekend the Cape Cod British Car Club held its annual British Legends weekend. Sharon and I took the GT6. Legend has it that the sun exists over The Cape. The 50-some mile tour on Saturday showed no evidence of it. Just getting from the inn to the start required traversing puddles seemingly a foot deep, the Atlantic pounding away on our left, water up to the gunwales. We lost a few ignition pulses here and there. Half of that same Atlantic fell from the sky during the ride. We lost more pulses but never stalled. About a dozen drivers braved the rain for the tour and everyone came back with water sloshing on the floor. Most of that water came from the puddles which some SUV drivers were afraid to drive through. The tour stopped for a fun boat trip up and down the Canal, and lo! the rain let up. I bailed out of the "scenic" return route to get back to the inn to clean up some of the mess while the sky was more air that water. You see, Lucas P of D had struck. The GT6's dome light was on even though the doors and hatch were shut. Water must have seeped into the wiring and shorted to ground one of the wires to the door switches. Couldn't fix it so I just pulled the bulb to save the battery. The sun eventually emerged for the Sunday show which attracted maybe 50 to 100 cars. (I didn't count them.) TR6s and MGBs were the most numerous. Also some nice MGAs, Jags, MG-TDs, a TR250, 2 TR3s, and assorted other cars, 4 Triumph bike, 2 Nortons, and one BSA. I put a pictures online at http://world.std.com/~muller/stuff/BritishLegendPics It was a great weekend and a fun, sunny ride home. Thanks to all who put it together. By Sunday evening I'd partially dried the carpet, and the dome light had finally gone out. Still haven't put the seats back in yet. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jdabars at att.net Mon Oct 5 22:54:17 2009 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 21:54:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR-3 Heater Message-ID: <705909.49868.qm@web83701.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Revington TR, from England has various heaters. www.REVINGTONTR.COM I also know a guy who installed a TR-6 Heater in a tr-3. sez it fit and gives out tons of heat, much better than "wimpy" original TR-3. John in Indianapolis, Indiana 1962 Triumph Van(very rare, sold ONLY in Canada From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 5 22:58:39 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 06 Oct 2009 00:58:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC1458CE0E4F54-4D64-49F5@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com> What class was your Avalance entered in? The? way I see it is you got 13 MPG to get two Spitfires to the show for an average of 26 MPG.? That's the same as what I got.? TR6: 27 MPG, TR8 25: MPG.? Average: 26 MPG.? And we just drove through Yosemite with tops down. ;-) Dave (Not even half way back) I checked my mileage after getting home and I am proud to report that my Avalanche got 13 MPG. While that probably doesn't sound all that good, if you figure in that I was towing a trailer with two Spits, you can multiply the 13 times three and come up with 39 MPG cumulative to get three vehicles there and back. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 5 23:24:22 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 22:24:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: <354a1780910052049m437c608bv9d38777c6e823ed9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20091006052422123.VCKI12917@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > I don't think there is any way they could schedule a VTR for > Breckinridge in October, they are already getting snow. Well, there was snow on the ground last time it was there ... not to mention getting hailed on (as well as snow and rain) during the drive to Breckenridge. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Mon Oct 5 23:33:30 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 22:33:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: <8CC1458CE0E4F54-4D64-49F5@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC1458CE0E4F54-4D64-49F5@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <83F924D12A984AD08982A356B84AFF9D@joepentiumnew> -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 9:59 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention What class was your Avalance entered in? WX! "Whale Exotic" The? way I see it is you got 13 MPG to get two Spitfires to the show for an average of 26 MPG.? That's the same as what I got.? TR6: 27 MPG, TR8 25: MPG.? Average: 26 MPG.? And we just drove through Yosemite with tops down. But you did not transport a living room suite to the event! :) Joe From wbeech at flash.net Tue Oct 6 00:02:24 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 00:02:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] Advance Auto-wire In-Reply-To: <933755.99879.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <933755.99879.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <27091E5E53F54A8D976DF1902B8D5F65@bboffice> Try Auto Sparks http://www.autosparks.co.uk/ they can ship from the UK and help you to get you VAT refund. Harness fitted perfectly up to my '58, was well-made and AS was a joy to work with. NFI Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rodney Trunnell Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 2:35 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Advance Auto-wire Has anyone on the list made contact with Advance auto-wire recently. I have tried to contact them to order a wiring harness for my TR3. No replies to email yet. I called the phone number given but from the voicemail message I do not know if the number was for Advance auto-wire or not. Thanks Rod Trunnell TR3B TCF1037l This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Oct 6 07:28:53 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 08:28:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR-3 Heater References: <705909.49868.qm@web83701.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5DA0C1DE342C42758EAEC337438DDC2A@KARL> If anybody is replacing their Smiths TR3 heater, I'd like to buy a good Smiths heater for my (unmentionable brand) TC, which uses the same one. Karl > Revington TR, from England has various heaters. > www.REVINGTONTR.COM > I also know a guy who installed a TR-6 Heater > in a tr-3. sez it fit and gives out tons of heat, > much better than "wimpy" original TR-3. > > John in Indianapolis, Indiana > 1962 Triumph Van(very rare, sold ONLY in Canada From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Oct 6 07:52:07 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 06:52:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] New TR3 Heater Replacement Found? Message-ID: <104733.96558.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12-volt-maradyne-cab-heater-12-500-btu.html This appears to be the same heater that is being sold used on Ebay (as a MG-TD heater...). It looks like the same one that HVDA has in his TR3 and it looks like it fits. Has anyone else tried one if these? I plan to order one shortly. In my search I found that if you google "cab heater" it brings up suitable units. The ones I see for sale on Ebay are made by the Hupp corporation, which went bankrupt in 1991. They originally made the Huppmobile. Here is the one on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230384855047&vi ewitem=&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching Bill in Tehachapi From thebujas at comcast.net Tue Oct 6 09:20:31 2009 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 10:20:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph TransAmerica website down In-Reply-To: <141482701.140361254745165545.JavaMail.root@sz0123a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: The TTA site is down right now due to a domain registration issue and we're working on a solution. 789 pictures are available on Flickr at: http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica/ If you've got pictures of the Triumph TransAmerica Charity drive, why not share them by uploading them to Flickr? Establishing a Flickr/Yahoo account is free and allows you to upload up to 100MB of photos and two 90 second videos per calendar month. We're missing a lot of the drive from British Columbia, Washington, Oregon and northern California. Tim Buja From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Oct 6 10:00:26 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 09:00:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: <444195E42A1345DDA778DD79964A22AF@joepentiumnew> References: <001201ca461d$6bad0ee0$43072ca0$@rr.com> <354a1780910052049m437c608bv9d38777c6e823ed9@mail.gmail.com> <444195E42A1345DDA778DD79964A22AF@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: And speaking of the drive home, ours was only 6 hours, AnnaBelle (in Rosey), and I (in Casper) had a great run up 101, 156, 152 with Jim Messineo and his TR3A ... Then ... we came to Santa Nella at I5 for gas and lunch. Welllll is seems they changed that intersection since the last time we were there. And so the Keystone Kops Event began. I charged on to I5 North, only to find it was I5 South ... 4 Miles later I saw the 152 intersection and charge off to loop back to I5 North, only I took the off ramp to San Jose NOT Sacramento ... found a U-turn spot came back to find Jim waiting ... No AnnaBelle. She and Jim took the correct off ramp, but AnnaBelle missed the on ramp to Sacramento and headed for Los Banos. By the time Jim and I saw her again she was headed in the correct direction, Jim and I got on I5 North (finally) and had to go 80 mph or better to catch her ... After that it was a good drive the rest of the way. I stand corrected. I thought the date being discussed was the GA event! I guess I haven't yet recovered from my 11.5 hour drive home yesterday! -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Oct 6 12:09:05 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 14:09:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention References: <001201ca461d$6bad0ee0$43072ca0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4F51127C16654306AD622C7F1EDA0777@DCS78M81> IMO it's WAY too early to dismiss a drive to Jekyll Island, epically when the wives are on board. It will be a great time and worth the trip if you can spare the time. If you on the west coast start planning now, a group could plan a route and make it a really good time. Eurofest at the BMW plant in Spartanburg, South Carolina is the weekend before (Oct 15 and 16) then a 5 or so hour drive to Jekyll Island from there. So you could make it a great adventure and the weather won't be as hot as when we drove to Rockford. Anyway, give it some thought and we'll try to make the drive worth it when you get here. Tom Fansher Central Florida VTR ----- Original Message ----- From: "John & Pat Donnelly" To: "'Joe Curry'" ; Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 8:39 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention > Joe and All, > > My wife shocked me on the way home from TFest and wanted to know if we > could > go to Jekyl Island next year!!! A left coast to right coast trip sounds > fun > but don't think 2400 miles each way is in the cards for us either, but > it's > definite for Breckenridge. Did anybody get a date? August was all I heard, > at least that's what I thought I heard for after sitting in a chair for 4 > hours at the banquet. > > Anyway, we had a blast. Great event. Can't wait for Del Mar! > > Pattie & Johnnie > >> >> I would like to go to GA next year but it probably is not in the cards. >> However I am looking forward to Breckenridge, CO in 2011. >> >> Cheers, >> Joe > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr4zest at gmail.com Tue Oct 6 21:59:54 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 20:59:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: References: <001201ca461d$6bad0ee0$43072ca0$@rr.com> <354a1780910052049m437c608bv9d38777c6e823ed9@mail.gmail.com> <444195E42A1345DDA778DD79964A22AF@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: Bill,Speaking of charge here, charge there, was the charge from your battery enough to get Annabelle home? Brian On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 9:00 AM, Bill wrote: > And speaking of the drive home, ours was only 6 hours, AnnaBelle (in > Rosey), and I (in Casper) had a great run up 101, 156, 152 with Jim > Messineo and his TR3A ... Then ... we came to Santa Nella at I5 for gas and > lunch. Welllll is seems they changed that intersection since the last time > we were there. And so the Keystone Kops Event began. I charged on to I5 > North, only to find it was I5 South ... 4 Miles later I saw the 152 > intersection and charge off to loop back to I5 North, only I took the off > ramp to San Jose NOT Sacramento ... found a U-turn spot came back to find > Jim waiting ... No AnnaBelle. She and Jim took the correct off ramp, but > AnnaBelle missed the on ramp to Sacramento and headed for Los Banos. By the > time Jim and I saw her again she was headed in the correct direction, Jim > and I got on I5 North (finally) and had to go 80 mph or better to catch her > ... After that it was a good drive the rest of the way. > > I stand corrected. I thought the date being discussed was the GA event! I > guess I haven't yet recovered from my 11.5 hour drive home yesterday! > > > > -- > "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake > it." - Henry Ford > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 > "Casper" > TS16765L > Wallace, CA > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimbpps at cox.net Wed Oct 7 10:24:31 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 09:24:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Test! Message-ID: <16BA7CFC86C441609639C63A679519E9@JimofficePC> Test, please delete! From jimbpps at cox.net Wed Oct 7 16:18:30 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 15:18:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] 2nd Test Message-ID: <77C4E078402743EF96AC9B8D68164C3D@JimofficePC> Please delete! From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 7 19:23:12 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 20:23:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph TransAmerica website down References: Message-ID: <2B760D59835E4E68A0782A069CE5F880@ranteer.local> some of you have been reading Brian's website (http://brianjones.tumblr.com/), which, btw, is excellent reading if you missed it. i wanted to point out that the lights he bought are done by a good friend and real Triumph guy here in the Dallas/Fort Worth area. i have them on my cars as well. I even have the prototype positive ground lights on one. Jim can be contacted at the above email address. From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Wed Oct 7 23:16:22 2009 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 22:16:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures Message-ID: Hi All - I have posted my pictures from the 2009 Triumphest/VTR in San Luis Obispo, CA at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157622401797733/ It may take a couple of days for me to label all of them, but most should be self explanatory. As always, you may look at any of the other sets I have posted. Enjoy! David Gunn 1954 TR2 Coupe TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Thu Oct 8 07:13:29 2009 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 09:13:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Oct 8, 2009, at 1:16 AM, David Gunn wrote: > Hi All - I have posted my pictures from the 2009 Triumphest/VTR in > San Luis > Obispo, CA at: Hi David, You did a super job of capturing the event. Great shots, thanks for sharing. Pat Barber and I made it back to Michigan yesterday at about noon, only minor issues with the cars in their 5,200 mile trip. I immediately fell asleep while looking at my pictures on my laptop in the recliner! Cheers, Blake Discher 1976 TR6 "Best Boy" ________________________________________________________________________ Blake J. Discher Firefly Studios, LLC | go-seo.com http://www.fireflystudios.com | http://www.go-seo.com P 313.259.4460 | F 313.447.4100 Twitter: bdischer | Facebook: Blake-Discher From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Thu Oct 8 07:57:44 2009 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 09:57:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR/Triumphest: What a success! Message-ID: Good morning, Hats off to event chairs Bob Muzio, Paulette Caudill, and the countless volunteers of SCTOA who pulled off an amazing National gathering of Triumph faithful. They'd planned for perhaps 225 registrations and were up to the challenge when a total of 284 registrants showed up. If there were hiccups, they all happened behind the scenes... I heard nothing but praise during my entire stay. The funkhana had to be my most memorable event. In it, the driver has a bag on his/her head and the navigator guides the driver through a four cone slalom to a dart board. After watching people move v-e-r-y slowly through the cones, Pat Barber and I figured out that the cone penalty was minor and it would make sense to just drive over them, straight for the dart board. We did, we were terrible at tossing darts, terrible at backing up, but we were laughing the entire time. And that's what these events are all about. It was an opportunity for listers to put faces with a lot of the names on the various lists and Dave Massey's bagpipes put the finishing touches on everything. Other memories: The three under-five-year old kids who danced so well at the welcome party. The outstanding displays at the Funcours. The gorgeous setting of the VTR Concours show. But before all of those, seeing John Macartney arrive at the hotel and literally slump over the door of the Stag he drove roughly 14,000 miles in the last 90 days for charity. (We all need spouses as understanding as his wife Liz!) And one more memory: reassuring the owners of a TR6 that they should keep their car in concours despite it's Yosemite Sam stickers on the windows and some other owner-inspired alterations. They thought the VTR concours was an all-the bolts-have-to-be-perfectly-alligned type of event. I assured them it wasn't, they stayed in, and were glad they did. I'd be remiss if I didn't thank the sponsors who help make these sorts of major events possible. Please express your gratitude to them next time you place an order from them. In no particular oder: Moss Motors, The Roadster Factory (Charles is amazing, he brings so much inventory for all of us!), Victoria British, HVDA (for once Herman didn't get the long-distance award!), Spitbits, Rimmer Brothers (yes, all the way from England!), and the Triumph Stag Club USA. I apologize if I missed a sponsor, I'm getting the list from the event web site. On behalf of the Vintage Triumph Register, thanks to everyone involved with Triumphest for inviting VTR to piggyback the North American Triumph Challenge with Triumphest. It was a great idea, your hospitality was appreciated, and I'm absolutely certain everyone had a great time. Thanks to Jim Funkhauser for the help he provided me with last minute graphics needs throughout the event. I'm looking forward to seeing many of you on Jekyll Island next year and I'll be motoring back your way in 2011 for the NATC in Breckenridge, CO! Wishing everyone safe driving, Blake Discher, President Vintage Triumph Register From tjwakeman at gmail.com Thu Oct 8 08:59:30 2009 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Thu, 08 Oct 2009 07:59:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? Message-ID: <4ACDFE52.7000204@gmail.com> I'm getting tired of strong arming my TR3A through the curves and have been thinking about a rack & pinion conversion. I have no idea of what is available from where, who's conversion works and whose might be the best choice. So I'm looking for advice about the conversion. In people's opinion what works best and where do I source it? Teriann With a 3 in need of a front suspension rebuild. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Oct 8 09:23:49 2009 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 08:23:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <634160.88292.qm@web111618.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> David great pics. thank you. any one know who owns the red herald with the Liverpool fc banner draped on the hood? thanks Frank ________________________________ From: David Gunn To: triumph list Sent: Wednesday, October 7, 2009 10:16:22 PM Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures Hi All - I have posted my pictures from the 2009 Triumphest/VTR in San Luis Obispo, CA at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157622401797733/ It may take a couple of days for me to label all of them, but most should be self explanatory. As always, you may look at any of the other sets I have posted. Enjoy! David Gunn 1954 TR2 Coupe TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From mark at bradakis.com Thu Oct 8 09:58:52 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 08 Oct 2009 09:58:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR/Triumphest: What a success! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4ACE0C3C.6070901@bradakis.com> I, for one, wish that the event had been a total failure! Harummph! Of course, if my plans to attend had come to pass I wouldn't be so jealous of those who did attend what I've heard was a fine and fun event. So it goes. Maybe next year, I have been meaning to step up my participation in VTR again. Perhaps if I start planning now I can have a Triumph to drive to Breckenridge, site of the last VTR meet I attended. mjb. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Oct 8 10:22:43 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 16:22:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: <4ACDFE52.7000204@gmail.com> References: <4ACDFE52.7000204@gmail.com> Message-ID: I did the conversion to the Revington rack and pinion and could not be more satisfied. It does require some welding of the mounts. If you would like to see it I am in Scotts Valley. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Oct 8 13:10:00 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 15:10:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: References: <4ACDFE52.7000204@gmail.com> Message-ID: <3A84EB93B7344EE0BFC0A29B8FD7BB35@DCH6RFC1> Just last week I fitted a bolt-on R&P which took less than an hour to install (after removing the apron, radiator, etc). I couldn't be more pleased. The kit was sourced from Racetorations in the UK and I now include the disclaimer about being a cousin of the owner, etc., etc. But I have to say, it came with every last spacer, nut and washer and clear instructions on removing the old stuff and installing the new. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 12:23 PM To: tjwakeman at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? I did the conversion to the Revington rack and pinion and could not be more satisfied. It does require some welding of the mounts. If you would like to see it I am in Scotts Valley. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From deruiterville at hotmail.com Thu Oct 8 13:16:15 2009 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter) Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 14:16:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: <4ACDFE52.7000204@gmail.com> References: <4ACDFE52.7000204@gmail.com> Message-ID: No personal experience yet, but I am sorely tempted. BP Northwest sells a comprehensive kit from Bastuck in Germany. I've heard nothing but good things about the kit - it also includes a gadget that lets you retain the horn and trafficator, though you lose the self canceling feature. Value-wise, Moss is now offering what looks to be the lowest priced kit, around $600 on sale. Most of these setups will mean you lose the stock fan and will need an electric fan setup. Randy 64 TR4 59 TR3A > > In people's opinion what works best and where do I source it? > > _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ From bjamma at hotmail.com Thu Oct 8 15:21:52 2009 From: bjamma at hotmail.com (Brandee Jamma) Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 21:21:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] Custom TR "Sleeping Beauty" ! Message-ID: [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf] From ElangTR4 at aol.com Thu Oct 8 17:21:52 2009 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 19:21:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures Message-ID: David, Great pictures! This was a trip I would have loved to have made, but work got in the way. It was nice to see pictures of some of the cars and people I know from other events. I haven't seen any results yet, but I'm sure the NCTA members who made the trip represented NE Ohio well. Eric 71 TR6 Teriann: Would rather prefer that you rebuild the front suspension, as you admit it needs, followed by the rebuild of the steering box. Only after those two are completed, then and only then consider the rack & pinion, for as you are aware the rack & pinion is the top of the slippery slope that leads to a host of other needless modifications. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana In a message dated 10/8/2009 11:45:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tjwakeman at gmail.com writes: I'm getting tired of strong arming my TR3A through the curves and have been thinking about a rack & pinion conversion. With a 3 in need of a front suspension rebuild. _______________________________________________ From dlylis at gmail.com Thu Oct 8 18:57:03 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 00:57:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? Message-ID: I have done exactly as you describe and now do not have the $ for the rack and pinion that I want. I say Terriann should go for it. Competing with modern cars for space at speed needs the R&P in my opinion. Original steering is great when used at speeds and conditions for which it was intended. Simply, IMHO. ------Original Message------ From: Loumetelko at aol.com Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? Sent: Oct 8, 2009 8:21 PM Teriann: Would rather prefer that you rebuild the front suspension, as you admit it needs, followed by the rebuild of the steering box. Only after those two are completed, then and only then consider the rack & pinion, for as you are aware the rack & pinion is the top of the slippery slope that leads to a host of other needless modifications. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana In a message dated 10/8/2009 11:45:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tjwakeman at gmail.com writes: I'm getting tired of strong arming my TR3A through the curves and have been thinking about a rack & pinion conversion. With a 3 in need of a front suspension rebuild. _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From amfoto1 at aol.com Thu Oct 8 19:05:11 2009 From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Thu, 08 Oct 2009 21:05:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphfest photos online for browsing.... Message-ID: <8CC1693AF66C4DA-2460-2D97B@webmail-m051.sysops.aol.com> Hi all, Well, there I was... Triumphless?at Triumphfest. I just had to settle for taking tons of photos... Especially at the Autocross since I'd never photographed one before and am always up for a new challenge. Yes, Carl, I got lots of TR4 shots, as you requested. Everyone is welcome to freely visit and browse,?although the pics?are?posted?at my commercial site in order to get them?uploaded quickly. Might I suggest?starting with the oldest "participants", the two Southern Crosses dueling it out at Autocross: http://www.amfoto1.printroom.com/ViewGallery.asp?evgroupid=0&userid=Amfoto1&gallery_id=1792804&sv=1 In the top lefthand corner of each page you'll see a little pulldown menu that?lets you jump to any of?the nine other Autocross galleries (sorted by model), a Funcours & Concours gallery, and a Local Flavor gallery that was mostly shot over in Morro Bay. In the top righthand corner of each gallery page is a Slideshow that will automatically play all the?thumbnails in the gallery in a larger format. Or, you can double click on any?individual thumbnail to enlarge it alone. Unfortunately I wasn't able to stick around for the last two or three groups of cars at the Autocross. It was great seeing all those Triumphs gathered in one place! Just wish mine had been one of them... Maybe next year. Alan Myers, Photographer San Jose, California 408 803-5550 amfoto1 at aol.com www.amfoto1.printroom.com '62 TR4 CT17602L http://www.triumphowners.com/640 From tr4zest at gmail.com Thu Oct 8 19:08:10 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 21:08:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] The end of the road... Message-ID: I'm home, after a wonderful six thousand mile solo journey across this big, beautiful country. Just me and a TR4. In my head, the engine is still running and today, it was strange not to have to jump in the car and go somewhere. It seems like the folks here are going to let me stay... at least for a while. Thanks to everyone that sent me messages of encouragement and the very kind things some wrote to me about the blog. I enjoyed writing it; that some enjoyed reading it, all the better. Cheers, all. See you on the road. Brian http://brianjones.tumblr.com/ From rengrave at verizon.net Thu Oct 8 20:46:28 2009 From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne) Date: Thu, 08 Oct 2009 22:46:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Selling my 73 TR6 Message-ID: Well, I decided to sell my 73 TR6. I've owned it for 26 of it's 36 years. Purchased back in 1983 from a car dealer (his car) in Newport RI, before him it was owned by a man in Denver CO (original owner). I just finished an engine rebuild and still have the break-in oil in it (about 300 miles on it). The car looks and runs great. I just completed a complete engine re-build and the car is registered and on the road. Engine (first ever re-build): Cylinders were bored .020 over. New pistons. Head milled down to 3.445" thick to get 9:1 compression ratio. New valve seats. New valve guides. New conrod, main bearings (.020" over). New Piper 270 Cam. New TRF carpet kit (light brown with new tan trim) New TRF Magic clutch kit. New rear springs. Completely rebuilt/new brakes , lines, hoses, front stainless steel caliper pistons, new rotors, new master cylinder. Rebuilt rocker arm assembly with bushings added to rockers (by Rocker Arm Specialists, Anderson, CA). New oil pump. New timing chain. Wayne Westport, MA 1973 TR6 Mallard/New Tan Comm# CF7106U Engine# CF7234UE From tjwakeman at gmail.com Thu Oct 8 21:41:56 2009 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Thu, 08 Oct 2009 20:41:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4ACEB104.7020304@gmail.com> Loumetelko at aol.com wrote: > Teriann: > for as you are > aware the rack & pinion is the top of the slippery slope that leads to a > host of other needless modifications. > Oh golly! I'm well down that slippery slope when I rebuilt the car almost 20 years ago. Things like stainless steel brake lines, finned magnesium diff cover, front sway bar, competition springs, nitrided crank, cam, 87mm pistons, ARP bolts, modified oil pump, oil cooler, 45DCOE's, four tube header, TR4A cylinder head that is shaved and polished and has oversize valves, modified valve train. Motoleta steering wheel, TR4 overdrive gearbox. TR2 exhaust system behind the four tube header, finned aluminum deep oil pan, finned aluminum valve cover with genuine Mooneyes breather, narrow fan belt conversion, electric fan, alternator, geared starter and since mid august a pair of steel trumpet Marchelle air horns from the '60's for that V12 Ferrari horn sound. Coming soon, a Salisbury limited slip diff and LED lighting. I had a added a rebuilt steering box with new gears back in the late 1980's and have never liked the steering. Someone doing a restoration might find my steering box very desirable considering how new the worm and peg are. Except for the steering wheel and PL700 headlamps she looks totally stock as long as I don't pop the bonnet or push the start button. I guess you might call the slippery slope a slalom. Teriann From tr4zest at gmail.com Fri Oct 9 07:20:19 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 09:20:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] There, fixed it. Message-ID: Not TR related, but for those of us that like to fix things, to take something and make it better, make it work again, I think you'll find these pages truly inspiring. http://thereifixedit.com/ Brian From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 9 07:57:51 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 09:57:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: <83F924D12A984AD08982A356B84AFF9D@joepentiumnew> References: <8CC1458CE0E4F54-4D64-49F5@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com> <83F924D12A984AD08982A356B84AFF9D@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <8CC16FFA003EE8C-4460-DD02@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com> But you did not transport a living room suite to the event! :) True but I did bring four people. Delayed response.? No WIFI in the outback. Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Oct 9 09:07:45 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 15:07:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: <4ACEB104.7020304@gmail.com> References: <4ACEB104.7020304@gmail.com> Message-ID: Another modification for the TR3A that goes very well with the R & P conversion is a change to the TR4 trunions, upper A-arms, and ball joint. With those two conversions my car sterers and drives as well as my T-bird. Best regards, Tom > Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 20:41:56 -0700 > From: tjwakeman at gmail.com > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? > > Loumetelko at aol.com wrote: > > Teriann: > > for as you are > > aware the rack & pinion is the top of the slippery slope that leads to a > > host of other needless modifications. > > > Oh golly! I'm well down that slippery slope when I rebuilt the car > almost 20 years ago. Things like stainless steel brake lines, finned > magnesium diff cover, front sway bar, competition springs, nitrided > crank, cam, 87mm pistons, ARP bolts, modified oil pump, oil cooler, > 45DCOE's, four tube header, TR4A cylinder head that is shaved and > polished and has oversize valves, modified valve train. Motoleta > steering wheel, TR4 overdrive gearbox. TR2 exhaust system behind the > four tube header, finned aluminum deep oil pan, finned aluminum valve > cover with genuine Mooneyes breather, narrow fan belt conversion, > electric fan, alternator, geared starter and since mid august a pair of > steel trumpet Marchelle air horns from the '60's for that V12 Ferrari > horn sound. > > Coming soon, a Salisbury limited slip diff and LED lighting. > > I had a added a rebuilt steering box with new gears back in the late > 1980's and have never liked the steering. Someone doing a restoration > might find my steering box very desirable considering how new the worm > and peg are. > > Except for the steering wheel and PL700 headlamps she looks totally > stock as long as I don't pop the bonnet or push the start button. > > I guess you might call the slippery slope a slalom. > > Teriann > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ From agraham at execulink.com Fri Oct 9 16:21:26 2009 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 18:21:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Grade of shock fluid? Message-ID: <200910092221.n99MLRED027200@smtp2.execulink.net> Good day list: A question regarding rear shock fluid. Several listers have mentioned using motorcycle fork oil. What grade of oil did you use? Want to fill up the rear shocks after cleaning and painting and looking for a suitable oil to use. Thanks in advance. Angelo Graham From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Oct 9 17:04:01 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 23:04:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: <488089773.3413381255128663412.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1911803451.3416501255129441724.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hello, everyone.B I rarely get involved in the philosophy of ownership.B But this time I confess I am conflicted.B As my favorite Chaucer prof once said about Persian rugs, we are not owners so much as caretakers.B Keeping these cars original as in no irreversible V-8 conversions, added pickup beds, and so on, seems important so as not to take such a fundamentalist car out of circulation for subsequent owners. On the other hand, cars are kinetic beings.B The have a pure and exclusive purpose, which is to be driven.B Not to say that they are not also works of art meant to be viewed aesthetically for that purpose alone.B Still, for me, I choseB my TR3A as a three year project because--with wet-liners--it is infinitely rebuildable.B I can keep it on the road forever and plan to. I like what you're saying, Lou, that the integrity of these cars must be maintained in the spirit with which they were built.B But maybe that spirit--namely, lively interaction with the road--is accepting of modifications that make it more accessible to we aging folks (no, Teriann, I don't mean you!).B So far I've kind of enjoyed the perversity of the hard-steering.B I can see myself, though, at some point doing the conversion to simply eliminate the hard work it takes to enjoy the car.B Go get 'em, TeriAnn. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire >I have done exactly as you describe and now do not have the $ for the rack and pinion that I want. I say Terriann should go for it. Competing with modern cars for space at >speed needs the R&P in my opinion. Original steering is great when used at speeds and conditions for which it was intended. Simply, IMHO. >>the rack & pinion is the top of the slippery slope that leads to a B >>host of other needless modifications. B From mlang99 at comcast.net Fri Oct 9 17:46:06 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 16:46:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] My TR3 Caused an Accident Today?! Message-ID: <4ACFCB3E.9090106@comcast.net> My wife took the TR3 grocery shopping today. While driving through the parking lot, some guy was paying more attention to her and the TR3 than where he was backing up. It sounds like he hit another car in the lot pretty hard. Is this a common problem? Mike From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Oct 9 17:41:08 2009 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 16:41:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: <1911803451.3416501255129441724.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1911803451.3416501255129441724.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4ACFCA14.7000303@gmail.com> terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > So far I've kind of enjoyed the perversity of the hard-steering.B I can see > myself, though, at some point doing the conversion to simply eliminate the > hard work it takes to enjoy the car.B > > I am way way down the slippery slope. I converted my 1960 Land Rover to power steering 10 years ago last July and have never regretted it. My TR3 is way harder to steer than my long wheelbase land Rover with the 33inch dia tyres. All I am looking for is to be able to throw my TR through the curves as easily as I can throw a TR4 or MGB through. If anyone would like to save the authenticity of my TR3 I'm willing to consider a similar condition TR250 or TR5 in trade. I could also be tempted with a Jag MKIV, a DB just about anything, 246GTS or XK120C in trade. Teriann From spitlist at cox.net Fri Oct 9 18:09:10 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 17:09:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] My TR3 Caused an Accident Today?! In-Reply-To: <4ACFCB3E.9090106@comcast.net> References: <4ACFCB3E.9090106@comcast.net> Message-ID: <801FEEFE44314848884BBC1E1BC5559E@joepentiumnew> It is more common for people to wreck their own cars while looking at themselves in store windows as they pass by! :) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Lang Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 4:46 PM To: triumph list Subject: [TR] My TR3 Caused an Accident Today?! My wife took the TR3 grocery shopping today. While driving through the parking lot, some guy was paying more attention to her and the TR3 than where he was backing up. It sounds like he hit another car in the lot pretty hard. Is this a common problem? Mike This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Oct 9 18:10:34 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 19:10:34 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] My TR3 Caused an Accident Today?! Message-ID: <1188529703.63169.1255133434764.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net> I also only have that problem when I am with my wife. I see a pattern here! Craig 72 TR6 On Oct 9, 2009, Michael Lang wrote: My wife took the TR3 grocery shopping today. While driving through the parking lot, some guy was paying more attention to her and the TR3 than where he was backing up. It sounds like he hit another car in the lot pretty hard. Is this a common problem? Mike This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From pcaffrey at ymail.com Fri Oct 9 19:35:13 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 18:35:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] My TR3 Caused an Accident Today?! In-Reply-To: <4ACFCB3E.9090106@comcast.net> References: <4ACFCB3E.9090106@comcast.net> Message-ID: <119282.41893.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Mike, If you've never had this experience in the TR3, the guy was probably checking out the car and then your wife. The car got his attention, the wife kept it there. I suggest you buy an early model Buick for your wife. Pat TR4A '67 ________________________________ From: Michael Lang To: triumph list Sent: Fri, October 9, 2009 4:46:06 PM Subject: [TR] My TR3 Caused an Accident Today?! My wife took the TR3 grocery shopping today. While driving through the parking lot, some guy was paying more attention to her and the TR3 than where he was backing up. It sounds like he hit another car in the lot pretty hard. Is this a common problem? Mike This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Oct 9 20:08:50 2009 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 19:08:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr3 hot plugs In-Reply-To: <634160.88292.qm@web111618.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <634160.88292.qm@web111618.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <258392.88369.qm@web111615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> whats the next "hotter" plug for my tr3 after the standard? thanks frank From rengrave at verizon.net Fri Oct 9 20:56:55 2009 From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne) Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 22:56:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Selling 73 TR6 Message-ID: <913DF7B3C75A4EF0A352AB0176E127D0@RossFamily> Here is my 73 TR6 I am selling (see attached PDF, not sure if I can attach anything on this list). I have posted it on the 6pack site, but my pictures did not show up because they were to large. Anyone in MA or RI who may be interested. Wayne owned 73 TR6 for 23 years asking $16,000 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of TR6 sell Ad.pdf] From FordneyNJ at aol.com Fri Oct 9 21:28:35 2009 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 23:28:35 EDT Subject: [TR] The end of the road... Message-ID: Well done Brain. Glad to here you are safely home. Thoroughly enjoyed you photos and ramblings. Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ President, Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS CTC 60536 L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Oct 9 22:07:54 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 00:07:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Selling 73 TR6 In-Reply-To: <913DF7B3C75A4EF0A352AB0176E127D0@RossFamily> Message-ID: <4ACFD05A.10979.574F3DF@localhost> On 9 Oct 2009 at 22:56, Wayne wrote: > Here is my 73 TR6 I am selling (see attached PDF, not sure if I can attach > anything on this list). > I have posted it on the 6pack site, but my pictures did > not show up because they were to large. > Anyone in MA or RI who may be interested. I do wish I had room in the garage, in the budget, and in the domestic tolerance for a good TR6. However it isn't to be. In any case, your attachment did not go through. The list removes all such things. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Oct 9 22:26:33 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:26:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: tr3 hot plugs Message-ID: <20091010042655.1F0B618764D@autox.team.net> From mark at bradakis.com Sat Oct 10 02:19:50 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 02:19:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Selling 73 TR6 In-Reply-To: <4ACFD05A.10979.574F3DF@localhost> References: <4ACFD05A.10979.574F3DF@localhost> Message-ID: <4AD043A6.4030209@bradakis.com> > In any case, your attachment did not go through. The list removes > all such things. > You can post stuff with pictures and such at http://www.team.net/forums mjb. From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Oct 10 06:53:25 2009 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 05:53:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rack & Pinion steering Message-ID: <4AD083C5.3000408@gmail.com> OK, So far from replies I gather that: Known sources for conversions are: - Moss Motors - Little or nothing known about their conversion - BP Northwest - offers a kit made by Bastuck in Germany. Instructions in German - Racetorations - in the UK has a very complete kit - Revington - In UK ANYONE KNOW WHERE THE KIT MOSS SELLS COMES FROM????? ------------- Everyone who has sent me information bout their conversion is extremely happy with their conversion People mention that this is a very good time to convert to the TR4 suspension parts to change the caster angle. Someone mentioned that the available rack & pinion conversions increases the number of turns lock to lock ANYONE HAVE LOCK TO LOCK NUMBERS FOR THEIR CONVERSIONS??? DID I MISS ANYTHING??? Thanks for your help so far, Teriann From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Oct 10 07:33:56 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 09:33:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] My TR3 Caused an Accident Today?! In-Reply-To: <4ACFCB3E.9090106@comcast.net> References: <4ACFCB3E.9090106@comcast.net> Message-ID: <200910100933.56666.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 09 October 2009 07:46:06 pm Michael Lang wrote: > My wife took the TR3 grocery shopping today. While driving through the > parking lot, some guy was paying more attention to her and the TR3 than > where he was backing up. It sounds like he hit another car in the lot > pretty hard. > > Is this a common problem? > > Mike Mike, First, avoid busy parking lots with your TR3. Cellphones, texting, etc can lead to a fender bender. Triumphs always get attention, they are rare to the everyday driver mostly the male version. They will always get a view. Bob From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Oct 10 07:56:58 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 08:56:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 hot plugs Message-ID: <20091010135722.A5716187667@autox.team.net> I'm pretty sure I'm in "plain text" this time... - Tony Also, from the NGK website: When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage - Tony PS - forgot to copy the list on my first response. At 11:22 PM 10/9/2009, Tony Drews wrote: I've I'm understanding the NGK heat charts, NGK BP7-HS would be a "standard" plug. BP6-HS would be the next "hotter" plug. I'm not totally sure that the BP7-HS is the "standard" plug but it's what I run in my race TR-4. I have a Kawasaki bike that would foul a plug occasionally and by going from a "7" 3rd digit plug to a "6" 3rd digit plug I solved the issue (or at least worked around it). - Tony Drews At 09:08 PM 10/9/2009, you wrote: whats the next "hotter" plug for my tr3 after the standard? thanks frank From tr4zest at gmail.com Sat Oct 10 08:14:32 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 10:14:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] My TR3 Caused an Accident Today?! In-Reply-To: <200910100933.56666.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <4ACFCB3E.9090106@comcast.net> <200910100933.56666.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: My wife hates driving in my TR4. It is something I have to enjoy 'alone'. Why does she hate it? "Its such an attention-grabbing car. I don't like people staring at me." she tells me. "Honey, they are looking at the car, not you. They even look at the car when I'm in it." She still wont get in it. Ah well. Brian On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 9:33 AM, Bob wrote: > On Friday 09 October 2009 07:46:06 pm Michael Lang wrote: > > My wife took the TR3 grocery shopping today. While driving through the > > parking lot, some guy was paying more attention to her and the TR3 than > > where he was backing up. It sounds like he hit another car in the lot > > pretty hard. > > > > Is this a common problem? > > > > Mike > Mike, > > First, avoid busy parking lots with your TR3. Cellphones, texting, etc can > lead to a fender bender. > > Triumphs always get attention, they are rare to the everyday driver mostly > the > male version. They will always get a view. > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From N197TR4 at cs.com Sat Oct 10 09:18:15 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 11:18:15 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3s and Wives causing accidents Message-ID: Michael, No accidents but......My TR4A and my wife caused me to get an "A" in a college business math class. I was having a bite to eat with my math professor after a night class. My wife spotted the TR4A in the restaurant parking lot. She came in and started walking toward us. The math prof looked up and said, and asked me, "how would like to **** that?! "A" came at the end of the semester. 1st 'A' I ever had in math. No accident there. Joe A. From sinclair at degenkolb.com Sat Oct 10 09:33:56 2009 From: sinclair at degenkolb.com (Mark Sinclair) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 11:33:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Complete 1147cc Engine and Box - SF, CA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Drat, thanks Joe. Unfortunately I doubt that's the reason for the underwhelming response. I'm ready to get rid of it, so if there is anyone who wants to come and get it, or arrange shipping, they can have it for free. Mark Sinclair 415-286-1578 -----Original Message----- From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 7:11 PM To: Mark Sinclair; triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Spitfire Complete 1197cc Engine and Box - SF, CA You mean 1147, don't you? Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Sinclair Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 3:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spitfire Complete 1197cc Engine and Box - SF, CA Hi, I have a complete 1197cc engine and gearbox available, on Craigslist, here. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/1405004927.html Email me if you want more details or picture. Thanks Mark Sinclair 415-286-1578 San Francisco, CA This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Sat Oct 10 10:17:35 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 10:17:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: <1911803451.3416501255129441724.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <488089773.3413381255128663412.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1911803451.3416501255129441724.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6122447F04AA4D57912D0D12B47330FB@bboffice> Just curious, the original worm-in-a-box system requires 2.25 turns of the steering wheel lock-to-lock... What is the ratio on an R&P set up? Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 5:04 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? Hello, everyone.B I rarely get involved in the philosophy of ownership.B But this time I confess I am conflicted.B As my favorite Chaucer prof once said about Persian rugs, we are not owners so much as caretakers.B Keeping these cars original as in no irreversible V-8 conversions, added pickup beds, and so on, seems important so as not to take such a fundamentalist car out of circulation for subsequent owners. On the other hand, cars are kinetic beings.B The have a pure and exclusive purpose, which is to be driven.B Not to say that they are not also works of art meant to be viewed aesthetically for that purpose alone.B Still, for me, I choseB my TR3A as a three year project because--with wet-liners--it is infinitely rebuildable.B I can keep it on the road forever and plan to. I like what you're saying, Lou, that the integrity of these cars must be maintained in the spirit with which they were built.B But maybe that spirit--namely, lively interaction with the road--is accepting of modifications that make it more accessible to we aging folks (no, Teriann, I don't mean you!).B So far I've kind of enjoyed the perversity of the hard-steering.B I can see myself, though, at some point doing the conversion to simply eliminate the hard work it takes to enjoy the car.B Go get 'em, TeriAnn. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire >I have done exactly as you describe and now do not have the $ for the >rack and pinion that I want. I say Terriann should go for it. Competing with modern cars for space at >speed needs the R&P in my opinion. Original steering is great when used at speeds and conditions for which it was intended. Simply, IMHO. >>the rack & pinion is the top of the slippery slope that leads to a B >>host of other needless modifications. B This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Sat Oct 10 10:37:30 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 10:37:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] tr3 hot plugs In-Reply-To: <20091010135722.A5716187667@autox.team.net> References: <20091010135722.A5716187667@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Frank, NGK recommends BP6HS for the TR3, the next hotter plug would be BP5HS. Tony is very right in that you are much better to err on the cold side rather than hot, I have seen holes burned in pistons from too hot a plug. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 7:57 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 hot plugs I'm pretty sure I'm in "plain text" this time... - Tony Also, from the NGK website: When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage - Tony PS - forgot to copy the list on my first response. At 11:22 PM 10/9/2009, Tony Drews wrote: I've I'm understanding the NGK heat charts, NGK BP7-HS would be a "standard" plug. BP6-HS would be the next "hotter" plug. I'm not totally sure that the BP7-HS is the "standard" plug but it's what I run in my race TR-4. I have a Kawasaki bike that would foul a plug occasionally and by going from a "7" 3rd digit plug to a "6" 3rd digit plug I solved the issue (or at least worked around it). - Tony Drews At 09:08 PM 10/9/2009, you wrote: whats the next "hotter" plug for my tr3 after the standard? thanks frank This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 10 10:47:23 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 09:47:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20091010164723911.MGTP12917@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > Would rather prefer that you rebuild the front suspension, as > you admit it > needs, followed by the rebuild of the steering box. Only > after those two > are completed, then and only then consider the rack & pinion, While I definitely feel that since it's TeriAnn's car, it should be whatever pleases her (sorry, Lou, but that's the way I feel about it); I also have to say that once I completed a full rebuild of the suspension & steering box, my 59 TR3A steered just as easily as any manual steering car I've ever driven and better than some. (Leaving me feeling like a fool for not having redone the box years before.) With the R&P conversion, you will also lose at least the self-canceling aspect of the turn signals ... most kits abandon the control head entirely, leaving the detail of what to do for horn & turn controls up to the installer. Randall From carlsereda at aol.com Sat Oct 10 12:39:46 2009 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 11:39:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphfest photos In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3BD45E76.5880.4A87.91D4.73B321218C94@aol.com> Fantastic photos Alan, - your autocross pics sure convince me that anti-sway bars are a good idea for these old cars - and in your pics I could actually check who had 'em and who didn't! Your close up shots of paint and chrome inspiring. Thanks again for bringing this event home and sharing it! Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Yes, Carl, I got lots of TR4 shots, as you requested. Everyone is welcome to freely visit and browse,although the pics are posted at my commercial site in order to get them uploaded quickly. Might I suggest starting with the oldest "participants", the two Southern Crosses dueling it out at Autocross: http://www.amfoto1.printroom.com/ViewGallery.asp?evgroupid=0&userid=Amfoto1&g allery_id=1792804&sv=1 In the top lefthand corner of each page you'll see a little pulldown menu that lets you jump .. From L1J1S at aol.com Sat Oct 10 13:56:53 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 15:56:53 EDT Subject: [TR] Tr.- tr 3 wiper motor Message-ID: list, with reference to the wiper motor for a 1960 tr3-a, what color black was used from the factory on the "box" side of the motor? larry schwartz 1960 tr-3a From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sat Oct 10 14:47:11 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 13:47:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] speaking of tr-3 steering Message-ID: <442645.44595.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I've taken a cursery (how do ya spell that? lol) look at my tr-3 steering box (taken the lid off turned the wheel) lol and can't seem to see anything blatently wrong at this point. I know at least I'll clean it all up, replace gaskets.......ect., ect. Just wondering what others have found wrong. Is replacement of peg and worm done 100% of the time? Did you find the overhaul of the steering box to be as daunting as suggested in some tech. stuff I read? I'm also a little worrried about adjustment after overhaul, how complex is that? just wondering. I've got a tr-4 rack n pinion I could switch too but really would like to keep the original, especially the control head/turn signal. Looks cool. gary n. From jimbpps at cox.net Sat Oct 10 15:13:32 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 14:13:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr.- tr 3 wiper motor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Larry, I believe that the armature housing (with the motor coils inside) was painted the same 'crinkle' paint that was used on the instrument panel. At least that was how I painted mine when I restored my TR3. Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 Now with a '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 12:57 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tr.- tr 3 wiper motor list, with reference to the wiper motor for a 1960 tr3-a, what color black was used from the factory on the "box" side of the motor? larry schwartz 1960 tr-3a _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Oct 10 15:46:05 2009 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 14:46:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr.- tr 3 wiper motor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4AD1009D.1070606@gmail.com> Jim Bauder wrote: > Larry, > > I believe that the armature housing (with the motor coils inside) was painted > the same 'crinkle' paint that was used on the instrument panel. At least that > was how I painted mine when I restored my TR3. > That is my understanding as well and what was on the wiper motor in my unrestored, but externally repainted once, 1961 TR3A that I restored in the late 1980's. Hi Jim, Great to see you in Portland! TeriAnn From jimbpps at cox.net Sat Oct 10 16:23:42 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 15:23:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphfest photos In-Reply-To: <3BD45E76.5880.4A87.91D4.73B321218C94@aol.com> References: <3BD45E76.5880.4A87.91D4.73B321218C94@aol.com> Message-ID: <94C94ECE70414236B9AF38CCE74A850E@JimofficePC> Amen to that Carl!! They are really great. Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of carlsereda Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 11:40 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphfest photos Fantastic photos Alan, - your autocross pics sure convince me that anti-sway bars are a good idea for these old cars - and in your pics I could actually check who had 'em and who didn't! Your close up shots of paint and chrome inspiring. Thanks again for bringing this event home and sharing it! Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Yes, Carl, I got lots of TR4 shots, as you requested. Everyone is welcome to freely visit and browse,although the pics are posted at my commercial site in order to get them uploaded quickly. Might I suggest starting with the oldest "participants", the two Southern Crosses dueling it out at Autocross: http://www.amfoto1.printroom.com/ViewGallery.asp?evgroupid=0&userid=Amfoto1&g allery_id=1792804&sv=1 In the top lefthand corner of each page you'll see a little pulldown menu that lets you jump .. Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 10 19:11:37 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 18:11:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] speaking of tr-3 steering In-Reply-To: <442645.44595.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20091011011136483.JFHQ18886@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > Just wondering what others have found wrong. Is > replacement of peg and worm done 100% of the time? I would say, as a minimum, replace the bushing, seal and peg. In my case, the worm should have been changed as well, but they weren't readily available at the time so I kept the old one. The wear in the original worm did result in a small amount of play in the steering at the straight-ahead position; but it was still far better than before. Depending on how bad things are, you may need a new arm as well. > Did you > find the overhaul > of the steering box to be as daunting as suggested in some > tech. stuff I read? Not sure what you read; for me the hardest part was getting the Pitman arm (which I think the Triumph literature calls a "drop arm") off the shaft. I didn't have a proper Pitman arm puller, and the jaws of my two-arm gear puller didn't want to stay on the "ears" of the arm, so I wound up making some braces to lock them in place. Tightened the screw until I thought something was going to break, then smacked the end of the screw with a BFH and it popped apart. > I'm also a little worrried about adjustment after > overhaul, how complex is that? IMO, the best method is with a dial indicator and magnetic base. I got mine from Enco, who frequently has them on sale for under $30: http://tinyurl.com/yll8etz Back off the adjusting screw and use the dial indicator on the end of the column to measure the end float; then remove shims to equal (or slightly exceed) the measured clearance. Another way is to remove all the shims and assemble the box with the 4 bolts just finger-tight, then measure the clearance between the end plate & box on all 4 sides. Fiddle with the bolts until you get equal measurements, then install a shim pack equal (or slightly less than) the measured clearance. Once you've got the end float set to zero (or slightly negative), tighten the adjusting screw gradually while turning the box back and forth through center with just your fingers on the shaft. When you can just barely feel it bind on center, the adjustment is correct. With my worn worm, there were two tight spots, one on either side of center. Not hard at all IMO, if you keep in mind what you are doing. When re-installing, keep in mind that almost every bolt is a loose fit in it's hole, to allow for getting everything lined up. Leave them loose until it's all installed, then wiggle things around to find the center before tightening the bolts. Also, I don't know how much difference it made, but I used free-turning replacements for the Silentbloc units. I got the brass and SS ones from BFE, but the Delrin ones from TRF and ARE that are available now should work just as well and are significantly less expensive. I also used full synthetic GL-5 gear oil in my rebuilt box, which I feel helped as well. Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Oct 10 20:20:45 2009 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 22:20:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR250 Wheels Message-ID: <61023712C87841B183F04E5742E3BC6B@Edscomputer> List, What wire wheel options were offered by the factory on the TR250? 60 spoke painted? 60 spoke chrome? 72 spoke painted? 72 spoke chrome? Were the same options offered throughout TR6 production also? TIA, Ed Woods From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 11 08:57:44 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 14:57:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: <6122447F04AA4D57912D0D12B47330FB@bboffice> References: <488089773.3413381255128663412.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1911803451.3416501255129441724.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: My Revington R&P is three turns lock to lock. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ From rengrave at verizon.net Sun Oct 11 10:11:16 2009 From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 12:11:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Selling my 73 TR6 In-Reply-To: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> Message-ID: <38CDFFCCE0574F38A7C61B9533EDCC10@RossFamily> Retiring from the TR hobby. It would be nice to have the car go to someone who enjoys the classic car hobby and not just someone who wants to beat on it, but it just does'nt fit my lifestyle anymore. Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Bauder" To: "'Wayne'" Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 6:27 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Selling my 73 TR6 > Wayne, > > I am sorry to hear you are selling your TR6. It sounds like you spent a > lot of > time (and money!) on it. > > Are you planning on replacing it or are you 'retiring' from the TR hobby? > > Regards and good luck, > > Jim > Jim Bauder > 480-309-9525 > '68 TR250 CD47L > Scottsdale, AZ > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 7:46 PM > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Selling my 73 TR6 > > Well, I decided to sell my 73 TR6. I've owned it for 26 of it's 36 years. > Purchased back in 1983 > from a car dealer (his car) in Newport RI, before him it was owned by a > man in > Denver CO (original owner). > > I just finished an engine rebuild and still have the break-in oil in it > (about > 300 miles on it). > The car looks and runs great. I just completed a complete engine re-build > and > the car is registered and on the road. > > Engine (first ever re-build): > Cylinders were bored .020 over. > New pistons. > Head milled down to 3.445" thick to get 9:1 compression ratio. > New valve seats. > New valve guides. > New conrod, main bearings (.020" over). > New Piper 270 Cam. > New TRF carpet kit (light brown with new tan trim) New TRF Magic clutch > kit. > New rear springs. > Completely rebuilt/new brakes , lines, hoses, front stainless steel > caliper > pistons, new rotors, new master cylinder. > Rebuilt rocker arm assembly with bushings added to rockers (by Rocker Arm > Specialists, Anderson, CA). > New oil pump. > New timing chain. > > > > Wayne > Westport, MA > 1973 TR6 > Mallard/New Tan > Comm# CF7106U > Engine# CF7234UE > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From don at napanet.net Sun Oct 11 10:43:05 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 09:43:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: <38CDFFCCE0574F38A7C61B9533EDCC10@RossFamily> References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> <38CDFFCCE0574F38A7C61B9533EDCC10@RossFamily> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> >This term was used on an earlier email to the list. Made me think about >the psychology, energy, money, talents, passion and more that are part of >the British car hobby. I've met many older guys that now drive newer >Camrys and Cougars and similar unexciting cars that once were enamored >with British sports cars. I've also met a lot of guys that now drive >Miatas instead of old British sports cars (I am somewhat guilty of this >one). I wonder what happens to make a person drop this hobby? One thing >I notice is physical- lack of mobility to either get in and out of the >cars, operate the clutch, and to bend and kneel and lie on the ground to >do repairs. Or just declining health and need to downsize >possessions. Annoyance with having to make repairs might enter in to >it. Issues of cost if you have limited funds. Impracticality of the cars >given modern driving conditions might be a factor too. Anyway, that >comment made me think about what happens to us over time, and with age. Don Scott Calistoga CA 2001 Miata SE BRG 1973 MGB GT (for sale) 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk II From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Oct 11 11:57:37 2009 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 10:57:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> <38CDFFCCE0574F38A7C61B9533EDCC10@RossFamily> <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <4AD21C91.6050104@gmail.com> don wrote: >> This term was used on an earlier email to the list. Made me think >> about the psychology, energy, money, talents, passion and more that >> are part of the British car hobby. I've met many older guys that now >> drive newer Camrys and Cougars and similar unexciting cars that once >> were enamored with British sports cars. I've also met a lot of guys >> that now drive Miatas instead of old British sports cars (I am >> somewhat guilty of this one). I wonder what happens to make a person >> drop this hobby? One thing I notice is physical- lack of mobility to >> either get in and out of the cars, operate the clutch, and to bend >> and kneel and lie on the ground to do repairs. Or just declining >> health and need to downsize possessions. Annoyance with having to >> make repairs might enter in to it. Issues of cost if you have >> limited funds. Impracticality of the cars given modern driving >> conditions might be a factor too. Anyway, that comment made me think >> about what happens to us over time, and with age. I'll admit, but not often, to being on the North side of 60. For me what I am seeing is: - I'm less willing to put up with spending an hour untangling my hair whenever I drive so have gone to wearing a hat that completely covers my hair. - Am more bothered by the glare of sun beating down into my eyes from over my glasses and I seem to be less tolerant of my face being wind blown at highway speeds on day long drives. So I am finally installing the factory hard top onto my TR3 that I've had in storage for 23 years - Am finding that wrestling the TR3's steering wheel at low speeds through tight turns is feeling more like a chore than fun. So I'm researching rack and pinion conversions. The Land Rover was converted to power steering 10 years ago. - That I mind getting into my grubby clothes and getting greasy more and more so I'm more apt to put things off or have my car professionally worked on. I used to try to be on top of everything and now not quite so much because of finances. - While I've had to downsize possessions and very briefly thought of eliminating the TR I very soon came to my senses. I can always rationalize having 2 cars that are both for very different purposes. - Thankfully mobility and flexibility have not become issues and am actually slowly loosing weight because of lifestyle changes I have made near the beginning of this year (which is good). - I'm thinking more of safety upgrades such as the steel trumpet Marchelle air horns I recently converted to, converting to LED lighting, going to the front spindles that won't bend on turns pushing the brake pads apart, going to a Salisbury diff to help tame the rear end when I punch it (see I can always rationalize things I want) Besides, My TR3A is my new modern car and I'm nowhere ready to retire from either of my cars. Teriann 1960 land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978 1961 Triumph TR3A, owned since 1986 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Oct 11 12:10:59 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 14:10:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> References: <38CDFFCCE0574F38A7C61B9533EDCC10@RossFamily> <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <200910111411.00714.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Don, I ran into a guy this past summer who was selling his 63 TR4 because he is living in a condo and doesnt have a garage anymore. Stored the car in winter and does not want to deal with storage etc. My guess would be that this is the primary cause of "Retiring" from the LBC hobby. Positives are, no longer need to mow the lawn, do every day maintenance on the house, the list goes on and on. But for me and the wife, we will always live in a house with ample garage space. Bob 1953 TR3A 1963 TR4 1972 TR6 (currently in restoration) 1974 T140V 1998 TBird T3 From tr4zest at gmail.com Sun Oct 11 12:27:39 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 14:27:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: <4AD21C91.6050104@gmail.com> References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> <38CDFFCCE0574F38A7C61B9533EDCC10@RossFamily> <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> <4AD21C91.6050104@gmail.com> Message-ID: Gosh, TeriAnn, apart for a deep knowledge in these wonderful cars, you're an enbler, too. I'm sold. I'll keep my TR. My only wish is that I still had hair to untangle when I drive with the top down. Brian 1962 TR4 On 10/11/09, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: > don wrote: > > > > > > This term was used on an earlier email to the list. Made me think about > the psychology, energy, money, talents, passion and more that are part of > the British car hobby. I've met many older guys that now drive newer Camrys > and Cougars and similar unexciting cars that once were enamored with British > sports cars. I've also met a lot of guys that now drive Miatas instead of > old British sports cars (I am somewhat guilty of this one). I wonder what > happens to make a person drop this hobby? One thing I notice is physical- > lack of mobility to either get in and out of the cars, operate the clutch, > and to bend and kneel and lie on the ground to do repairs. Or just > declining health and need to downsize possessions. Annoyance with having to > make repairs might enter in to it. Issues of cost if you have limited > funds. Impracticality of the cars given modern driving conditions might be > a factor too. Anyway, that comment made me think about what happens to us > over time, and with age. > > > > > > I'll admit, but not often, to being on the North side of 60. For me what I > am seeing is: > > - I'm less willing to put up with spending an hour untangling my hair > whenever I drive so have gone to wearing a hat that completely covers my > hair. > > - Am more bothered by the glare of sun beating down into my eyes from over > my glasses and I seem to be less tolerant of my face being wind blown at > highway speeds on day long drives. So I am finally installing the factory > hard top onto my TR3 that I've had in storage for 23 years > > - Am finding that wrestling the TR3's steering wheel at low speeds through > tight turns is feeling more like a chore than fun. So I'm researching rack > and pinion conversions. The Land Rover was converted to power steering 10 > years ago. > > - That I mind getting into my grubby clothes and getting greasy more and > more so I'm more apt to put things off or have my car professionally worked > on. I used to try to be on top of everything and now not quite so much > because of finances. > > - While I've had to downsize possessions and very briefly thought of > eliminating the TR I very soon came to my senses. I can always rationalize > having 2 cars that are both for very different purposes. > > - Thankfully mobility and flexibility have not become issues and am > actually slowly loosing weight because of lifestyle changes I have made > near the beginning of this year (which is good). > > - I'm thinking more of safety upgrades such as the steel trumpet Marchelle > air horns I recently converted to, converting to LED lighting, going to the > front spindles that won't bend on turns pushing the brake pads apart, going > to a Salisbury diff to help tame the rear end when I punch it (see I can > always rationalize things I want) > > Besides, My TR3A is my new modern car and I'm nowhere ready to retire from > either of my cars. > > Teriann > 1960 land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978 > 1961 Triumph TR3A, owned since 1986 > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 11 13:00:58 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 14:00:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" References: <38CDFFCCE0574F38A7C61B9533EDCC10@RossFamily><6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> <200910111411.00714.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: we're moving into a smaller house with a bigger garage i am blessed with a very special wife! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 1:10 PM Subject: Re: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" > Don, > > I ran into a guy this past summer who was selling his 63 TR4 because he is > living in a condo and doesnt have a garage anymore. Stored the car in > winter > and does not want to deal with storage etc. > > My guess would be that this is the primary cause of "Retiring" from the > LBC > hobby. > > Positives are, no longer need to mow the lawn, do every day maintenance on > the > house, the list goes on and on. > > But for me and the wife, we will always live in a house with ample garage > space. > > Bob > > 1953 TR3A > 1963 TR4 > 1972 TR6 (currently in restoration) > 1974 T140V > 1998 TBird T3 From jat1127 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 11 14:16:04 2009 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:16:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] POWER STEERING PUMP Message-ID: Hello Listers, What is the current wisdom on replacement P/S pumps for the TR8 fitted to an original 3.5 motor? Is there an exact cross to another vehicle? CHEERS John John Taylor Greenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Oct 11 14:45:15 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:45:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: <20091010164723911.MGTP12917@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> References: <20091010164723911.MGTP12917@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: Randall: The interesting comparison would be your TR3 versus a TR3 with a rack and pinion. In my cases (n=2) the differences were dramatic, but perhaps the boxes were badly set up in the first place. Having said that, I got the box professionally rebuilt with a new bushing, seal and peg, so I would have hoped it was as good as it could have been. In the second car, I got the TR4 trunnions and upper A-arms and negative camber vertical links and (to me at least) it handles significantly better than the other. In terms of "what are the best improvements one can make to a TR3?", I'd say 1. Overdrive, and 2. Rack and pinion. But this is clearly a case of horses for courses and I only reply to questions on my experience. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 12:47 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? > Would rather prefer that you rebuild the front suspension, as > you admit it > needs, followed by the rebuild of the steering box. Only > after those two > are completed, then and only then consider the rack & pinion, While I definitely feel that since it's TeriAnn's car, it should be whatever pleases her (sorry, Lou, but that's the way I feel about it); I also have to say that once I completed a full rebuild of the suspension & steering box, my 59 TR3A steered just as easily as any manual steering car I've ever driven and better than some. (Leaving me feeling like a fool for not having redone the box years before.) With the R&P conversion, you will also lose at least the self-canceling aspect of the turn signals ... most kits abandon the control head entirely, leaving the detail of what to do for horn & turn controls up to the installer. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Oct 11 14:46:13 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:46:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: References: <488089773.3413381255128663412.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1911803451.3416501255129441724.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6CA268A6D1B94CE7B01AD00046E1D223@DCH6RFC1> My racetorations R&P is somewhere between 2.5 and 3.0. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:58 AM To: wbeech at flash.net; terryrs at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? My Revington R&P is three turns lock to lock. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Oct 11 15:03:35 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:03:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A POWER STEERING In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <445633190.3813791255295015632.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Just curious.B Been on the List for half a decade or longer, but never heard tell of putting Power Steering in a TR3A, TR4, or 6. Why would the retrofit for a powersteering system be more difficult than a rack and pinion conversion? (Don't blast me...I was an English major!B I took Spanish in college, but not engineering!) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hamsphire From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sun Oct 11 16:25:46 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 15:25:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> <38CDFFCCE0574F38A7C61B9533EDCC10@RossFamily> <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <306924.18285.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> The only thing I don't like about my TR is the attention it gets. When I got it back in the 70s it was just another LBC, not a "classic." Now, it attracts notice and sometimes from undesirables. I remember a couple of years ago some guys in a "scraper" (CA lingo for a Chevy type car with over-sized wheels) gave me a bad time at a stop light. So, I don't like the recognition the car tends to bring to itself....Society has gotten nuttier. I am more concerned with some gang member nailing me than getting into a car accident with a semi. I wonder if some folks get rid of their cars for this reason. Pat TR4A '67 ________________________________ From: don To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, October 11, 2009 9:43:05 AM Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" > This term was used on an earlier email to the list. Made me think about the psychology, energy, money, talents, passion and more that are part of the British car hobby. I've met many older guys that now drive newer Camrys and Cougars and similar unexciting cars that once were enamored with British sports cars. I've also met a lot of guys that now drive Miatas instead of old British sports cars (I am somewhat guilty of this one). I wonder what happens to make a person drop this hobby? One thing I notice is physical- lack of mobility to either get in and out of the cars, operate the clutch, and to bend and kneel and lie on the ground to do repairs. Or just declining health and need to downsize possessions. Annoyance with having to make repairs might enter in to it. Issues of cost if you have limited funds. Impracticality of the cars given modern driving conditions might be a factor too. Anyway, that comment made me think about what happens to us over time, and with age. Don Scott Calistoga CA 2001 Miata SE BRG 1973 MGB GT (for sale) 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk II _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From mark at bradakis.com Sun Oct 11 16:43:58 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:43:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> <38CDFFCCE0574F38A7C61B9533EDCC10@RossFamily> <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> <4AD21C91.6050104@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4AD25FAE.5030909@bradakis.com> Some days I feel like I've already retired from the hobby. I spend all my time counting up the Team.Net donations instead of working on my cars! Seriously, I do appreciate those who contributed recently, I'm working on getting all the thank you messages out. If you missed the fund drive, the donate.html link below provides info on ways to contribute. Well, one problem, the google ads are NOT showing commercial ads, I'll have to look into that. Anyway, back to the topic. I AM going to be working on one of my Triumphs later today, maybe I'll have the transmission back in the clapped out squaretail before the first foot of snow falls in Salt Lake. I do still participate in the hobby by working on cars, keeping Team.Net alive is not my only effort towards saving Triumphs. And coincidently, I was digging through some stuff and found a small box I had forgotten about. It contained a pleasant surprise, see http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=21 A nice momento to help fire up my enthusiasm! mjb. From adcronin at ameritech.net Sun Oct 11 17:05:35 2009 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:05:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? CONTROL HEAD Solution (one of many) In-Reply-To: References: <488089773.3413381255128663412.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1911803451.3416501255129441724.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <196325.88198.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> In regards to the turn signal function when converting to R and P steering, The folks at Bastuck also sell as a separate item the "slip ring" that is a part of their kit (BP Northwest). The slip ring which fits on the upper column at the first universal will allow the horn and turn signals to remain controlled by the original steering head unit---but the unit will rotate with the turn of the wheel and not self cancel. I will be rigging up a small buzzer to help remind me to cancel them. For anyone who purchases or is contemplating such a solution to solving the horn and signals, I have a series of 30+ photos and a rough language conversion on the slip ring aspect of this solution. Regards, Dan Cronin ________________________________ From: tom white To: wbeech at flash.net; terryrs at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:57:44 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? My Revington R&P is three turns lock to lock. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From elliottr at rmi.net Sun Oct 11 18:04:44 2009 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 19:04:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 250 Clutch Help! In-Reply-To: <97F45A11452D4946975A9685F87EBE1D@Meislaptop> References: <4AC41289.27563.89C815@elliottr.onemain.com> <97F45A11452D4946975A9685F87EBE1D@Meislaptop> Message-ID: <4AD2729C.9000405@rmi.net> Hi, I meant to email this earlier, but the way I normally checked email while on the road meant I could not easily post emails to the list. We talked to some people at the Triumph Fest and they all agreed with Randall, it could be an oil leak getting oil on the clutch. We went to a shop in San Luis Obispo. After the owner (Peter) took it for a test drive, he put it up on jack stands in the rear. Then he had some one let off the clutch in first with the parking brake on. You could see the differential rocking side to side. So Peter thought the bushings were shot. He replaced them with polyurethane ones the old ones were rubber. Anyway, that took care of the problem. Thanks everyone for the input. Roger Elliott Randall wrote: >> My wife and I just arrived in San Luis Obispo, from Kansas, for the >> VTR\TRFest. >> > > So in the morning, you can get hundreds of opinions in person! > > > One cause of judder can be oil on the clutch; perhaps your rear main seal or > the gearbox front seal is leaking? > > Randall From fishplate at charter.net Sun Oct 11 18:11:52 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:11:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front End Rebuild Questions In-Reply-To: <20091011011136483.JFHQ18886@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> References: <442645.44595.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <20091011011136483.JFHQ18886@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: Rebuilding the front end on my 75 TR6...I've got all the pieces apart, more or less, and in the process of cleaning and finishing, I wondered if there's any consensus regarding paint, POR-15 or powder coating on the arms and knuckles that make up the suspension? Also, I can clean the vertical link more easily if I take it completely apart, removing the steering arm and pressing out the spindle. But I wonder how large a can of worms I open if I do that - any advice? And finally, I was playing with the new trunnions I got. They are much tighter than the old ones (which didn't have much slop), but they are especially tight in the final position. Not so tight that I can't turn it by hand, but pretty stiff. How stiff should they be? Thanks! Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From mark at bradakis.com Sun Oct 11 18:40:23 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 18:40:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Front End Rebuild Questions In-Reply-To: References: <442645.44595.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <20091011011136483.JFHQ18886@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <4AD27AF7.5030802@bradakis.com> Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > Rebuilding the front end on my 75 TR6...I've got all the pieces apart, > more or less, and in the process of cleaning and finishing, I wondered > if there's any consensus regarding paint, POR-15 or powder coating on > the arms and knuckles that make up the suspension? > Well, if it were a Spitfire, I'd suggest nickel plating. There's a thread on the Spit list about some fellow on EBay offering nickel plated control arms for $300 a set. Wow. Powder coating is an option on a street car. I've heard that powder coating can hide incipient cracks, whereas paint will crack with the arm. If you are running a racecar, you want to see any sort of possible cracks in suspension bits as soon as possible. > Also, I can clean the vertical link more easily if I take it > completely apart, removing the steering arm and pressing out the > spindle. But I wonder how large a can of worms I open if I do that - > any advice? Don't do it. Leave the axle in the upright. Do not mess with it. mjb. From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Sun Oct 11 20:56:04 2009 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 19:56:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" - driving in traffic In-Reply-To: <306924.18285.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> <38CDFFCCE0574F38A7C61B9533EDCC10@RossFamily> <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> <306924.18285.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000301ca4ae7$8a8986d0$9f9c9470$@rr.com> Don't get me wrong, I am NOT retiring from my hobby (it's more like my passion). But .... I agree with Pat, the attention our cars get in traffic can sometimes be annoying. I'll be driving on the freeway and suddenly get boxed in from making lane changes by a guy in a 25 foot long Suburban, who was driving 90, pulled up side of me, slowed to 70, and he turns out to be a wanna-be/I had one/"is that an MG?" lookie-loo checking out my wheels, talking to his comrade in the passenger seat, pointing and waving, and then giving the thumbs up sign as he speeds back up to 90 MPH after 20 seconds of gawking. Damn, I missed my turn-off because of this guy. The undesirable element, as Pat describes it, is nothing compared to the yokels who compromise your safety. I don't live in a posh neighborhood (closer to the "hood" as I see it) and it's cool having kids wave as I go by. That keeps me in the "hobby", and the driving of course! Thank goodness the kids don't drive - yet. My $.02 Johnnie > > The only thing I don't like about my TR is the attention it gets. ason. > Pat > TR4A > '67 From pethier at comcast.net Sun Oct 11 21:59:34 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 03:59:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures In-Reply-To: <293758291.2841631255319789744.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <101140292.2842341255319974206.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I will be getting my pix available "real soon now". We got home last night from our 4-week trip. I'm not Blake or Brian... Dave, I think you may be the only person to shoot TR44SUE after I washed it (well OK, it was in the background. I was thinking of not washing it through the whole convention, but when we got around to looking at it mid-day Saturday we saw that it had been attacked by a tree and a flock of birds! I was probably the last person at the convention to use the car wash area. The judging for the Funcours was probably over by then. We went back to the Madonna Inn (to shoot Bear, who had not made it to dinner Friday night) and to the grocery store. Soon after, Owen and I put it in the trailer. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From thebujas at comcast.net Sun Oct 11 22:54:06 2009 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 23:54:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] POWER STEERING PUMP In-Reply-To: Message-ID: john taylor asked > What is the current wisdom on replacement P/S pumps for the > TR8 fitted to an original 3.5 motor? > Is there an exact cross to another vehicle? Why do you need to replace it? Aside from a lower pressure relief valve, this is a standard General Motors Saginaw power steering pump and rebuild kits are available at just about any local auto parts store. Rebuild kits consist of a shaft seal and a bunch of o-rings and "square section" rings. Ask for a rebuild kit for a 1980 Chevrolet Citation. These pumps are found in a myriad older cars from the 70's and 80's: Buicks, Cadillacs, Chevrolets, Pontiacs, Oldsmobiles, GMCs, Volvos, Saabs, Chryslers, AMCs, Jeeps. The rebuild kit that I purchased was from AutoZone was about $15 and was a Powercraft 7918, made by Stant Corp in Dixon, IL. It stopped the leak I had between the pump body and the reservoir on the pulley side of the pump. FYI, there is no procedure in the ROM for removing the power steering pump in a TR8 equipped with A/C. The only procedure listed is for a non-A/C TR8 and it's essentially worthless for an A/C car. Let me save you lots of time by telling you now that you will have to drain the coolant and then remove the radiator and the fan assembly before attempting to move any hardware on the power steering pump. You cannot remove the pump from the side or above since the A/C compressor is in the way. The pump has to come out toward the A/C condenser and then downward. Removing the radiator and fans will also give you the room you need to turn the wrenches which would otherwise be obstructed by the A/C compressor, piping, and bracket. Even so, be prepared for a half-flat rotation, flip the wrench over, half-flat rotation, flip the wrench, etc. on a couple of the fasteners that hold the pump to the pump bracket. While you've got the fans out, this might be a good time to check the bearings and brushes... I found a couple of rebuild websites that had lots of photos and were every helpful when I rebuilt my pump: or watch the word wrap - the links above consist of everything between the < and >. You can also do a google search on rebuild saginaw power steering pump The links above are the 1st and 5th links shown from that search. The reservoir tanks look slightly different on the pumps used in the Wagoneer and Corvette, but the internals of the pump are identical to what I found on my TR8. Take note that once you remove the cast iron pump body from the steel reservoir and remove the back plate that's held in place with a big spring and a lock ring, the internal parts can fall out if you turn it upside down. There is a direction arrow cast into the outside edge of the oval "cam ring" case that surrounds the pump vanes. The cam ring can be assembled either way, but it won't develop any pressure if you reassemble it with the arrow facing the wrong way, so take note of the direction arrow when you remove the cam ring. No other internal parts are directional on rebuild. If you decide not to rebuild your pump, be sure to retrieve the pressure relief/flow control valve from the pump you removed from your TR8. This is in the high pressure pipe fitting and is easily removed. I believe that Triumph uses a 750 psi relief valve and the standard GM Saginaw pump is either 1000 or 1500 psi. The TR8 pump is identical to the pump used on the Stag, aside from the pulley attachment method. You'll need a special tool to remove (and reinstall) the pulley that is pressed onto the shaft on the TR8 pump, while the Stag pulley is keyed and is held on with a bolt. Your local Autozone or similar parts store may have the tool available for loan - bring the pump in and see if they've got something that fits. I didn't remove the pulley and rebuilt the pump without replacing the shaft seal. Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Oct 12 07:46:28 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 13:46:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A POWER STEERING In-Reply-To: <445633190.3813791255295015632.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: Message-ID: Just my opinion but power steering requires more space, engine horse power, and hoses that R & P. Best regards, Tom > Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:03:35 +0000 > From: terryrs at comcast.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR3A POWER STEERING > > Just curious.B Been on the List for half a decade or longer, but never heard > tell of putting Power Steering in a TR3A, TR4, or 6. > > > > Why would the retrofit for a powersteering system be more difficult than a > rack and pinion conversion? > > > > (Don't blast me...I was an English major!B I took Spanish in college, but not > engineering!) > > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > > New Hamsphire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ From tr4zest at gmail.com Mon Oct 12 08:19:23 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:19:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures In-Reply-To: <101140292.2842341255319974206.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <293758291.2841631255319789744.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <101140292.2842341255319974206.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: ..to shoot Bear, who had not made it to dinner.." That seems a bit harsh Phil: shot, for a loss of appetite. Glad you made it home OK. I look forward to seeing your photos. Cheers, Brian On Sun, Oct 11, 2009 at 11:59 PM, wrote: > I will be getting my pix available "real soon now". > > We got home last night from our 4-week trip. I'm not Blake or Brian... > > Dave, I think you may be the only person to shoot TR44SUE after I washed it > (well OK, it was in the background. I was thinking of not washing it > through the whole convention, but when we got around to looking at it > mid-day Saturday we saw that it had been attacked by a tree and a flock of > birds! I was probably the last person at the convention to use the car wash > area. The judging for the Funcours was probably over by then. We went back > to the Madonna Inn (to shoot Bear, who had not made it to dinner Friday > night) and to the grocery store. Soon after, Owen and I put it in the > trailer. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Oct 12 08:43:22 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 07:43:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? CONTROL HEAD Solution (one of many) In-Reply-To: <196325.88198.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <488089773.3413381255128663412.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1911803451.3416501255129441724.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <196325.88198.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0910120743w68fde74fj295fbf74f265a06a@mail.gmail.com> On 10/11/09, A Daniel Cronin wrote: > In regards to the turn signal function when converting to R and P steering, > The folks at Bastuck also sell as a separate item the "slip ring" that is a > part of their kit (BP Northwest)... Also, Bob S's "More BS" shows a DIY slip ring for just the horn that may be an alternative for the crafty & thrifty: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/R%26P-slip-ring.JPG Geo From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Mon Oct 12 10:14:27 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 12:14:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> Message-ID: > >I wonder what happens to make a person drop this hobby? One thing > >I notice is physical- lack of mobility to either get in and out of the > >cars, operate the clutch, and to bend and kneel and lie on the ground to > >do repairs. Or just declining health and need to downsize > >possessions. Annoyance with having to make repairs might enter in to > >it. Issues of cost if you have limited funds. Impracticality of the cars > >given modern driving conditions might be a factor too. Anyway, that > >comment made me think about what happens to us over time, and with age. I really don't want to retire from the TR hobby. I have a chronic illness and am unable to work. I can't work on the TR3 much anymore; not even clean it. I rarely have the enegy to drive it. My only income is a meager Social Security Disability payment. I am up to here in credit card debt. I could sell the car to pay off the debt, but instead, I charge more parts. Why, then, don't I sell the TR3 and retire from the hobby? I could say that I love the car so much that I can't bring myself to live without it. Or that the camaraderie of the TR community keeps me going. Or even that driving the car, however rarely, gives me pleasure and the desire to live. But it's none of these. No, it's because I can't stand to become one of those guys who spend their empty days hanging about gas stations, quickie marts, restaurants, etc. They wait and wait for a TR3 to drive up. Broken men. Forgotten men. Men with hollow cheeks and glazed-over eyes with a far-away look in them. "I used to have one of these", they say to you in a husky voice as they try to hold back the emotion. I don't want to become like that, so I'll try to keep my car a little longer. John H. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 12 11:36:52 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:36:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? In-Reply-To: <6122447F04AA4D57912D0D12B47330FB@bboffice> References: <488089773.3413381255128663412.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1911803451.3416501255129441724.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <6122447F04AA4D57912D0D12B47330FB@bboffice> Message-ID: <71E7414C67C04DD581CFBFF8AE225680@jdnet.deere.com> > Just curious, the original worm-in-a-box system requires 2.25 > turns of the steering wheel lock-to-lock... What is the ratio > on an R&P set up? Just a side comment: lock-to-lock isn't all there is to steering ratio. At least one person has commented on loss of turning radius with the R&P conversion ... -- Randall From L1J1S at aol.com Mon Oct 12 11:48:05 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 13:48:05 EDT Subject: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros Message-ID: list, i am contemplating on intalling a set of brookland aeros windshields on my tr3-a. if any of you have a set of them on your car can you please send me a picture of your car off list. secondly, what do you like and dislike about the brooklands. larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 12 12:55:38 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 11:55:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dieseling and pinging In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sorry for the delay, Wayne, I'm still cleaning out my inbox after TRfest. > Any instructions for adjusting ZS 175 carbs ? Try Nelson's article at http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsIII/CarbsIII.htm > The Bentley manual instructs me to raise the piston inside > the carb air inlet 1/4", and if the engine idle has an > immediate increase, it means the carbs are set rich, if not > the carbs are weak. Those instructions don't' necessarily apply to 'emissions' carbs. They are supposed to idle somewhat on the lean side. > Should I touch the carbs to try and fix my pinging and > dieseling issue? The pinging is unlikely to be carb adjustment, IMO, unless the engine is also overheating. I would look first to fuel and ignition timing to solve pinging issues. However, getting the idle rpm down will definitely help with dieseling. On my Stag ZS carbs, I found that the idle adjustment was not lowering the idle rpm with the vacuum retard disconnected. It turned out that the throttles were being held open by the float bowl vent valves, and the provided adjustment for the vent valves did not have enough range. I had to bend the clips somewhat to get it all adjusted properly. Of course, the other option is to reconnect the "anti-run-on" equipment, which the factory added in 1973 precisely because these engines have a tendency to run-on (aka diesel). There is a solenoid mounted to the bottom of the carbon canister, which applies manifold vacuum to the canister and in turn the float bowls when the engine is shut off, in order to prevent dieseling. -- Randall From trstreep at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 12 13:01:38 2009 From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:01:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] wire wheels Message-ID: Triumphistae, I'm planning to look at a set of used chrome 60-spoke wire wheels. The seller isn't sure if they are Dayton or Dunlop. Based on general hearsay, I think I would prefer Dayton. Does anyone know of a way to visually tell the difference between the two brands? Any and all comments most welcome regarding either manufacturer. TIA Bob Streepy From areich at telus.net Mon Oct 12 13:15:11 2009 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 12:15:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Need help in California - Arcata - A Team Building Exercise Message-ID: <4AD3803F.4090606@telus.net> I sent the message below out to the List on Monday, Oct 5th, at about 3:00PM. I got a lot of helpful advice and ordered a head gasket set from British Parts Northwest. They were extremely helpful and got the set to me at about 10:15 the next day. We had the car together in about an hour, packed up, had lunch and hit the road abot 1:00PM. A great "Team Building" exercise for myself and the other five members of the British Columbia Triumph Registry Club! Allan Reich ******************************************* Greetings Just blew a head gasket on TR3 on way back to Vancouver Canada from Triumphest! Stopped at Days Inn in Arcata - North of Eureka Can anybody help ..need gasket or suggestion where and how ..have cell phone 619-906-9490 We have all the tools, know-how and manpower ... need GASKET!!! Allan Reich 1960 TR3A From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 12 13:22:13 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 15:22:13 EDT Subject: [TR] Transproter advice Message-ID: Folks, an unfortunate thing happened on the way back from SLO. Last Saturday morning found us in Lymon, CO. Unfortunately the cold front found us as well. And I found some black ice and put the car into a guard rail. The car now rests quietly 646 miles from home and one option of getting it back is to use a transporter service. The car still runs and I think it is drivable for short distances. Heck, I could probably drive it home but the wife won't let me. Any recommendations of transporter services? Dave Massey From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Oct 12 13:40:03 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 12:40:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Gauge Sending Unit & Breather Leaks Message-ID: <214392.90749.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> When I fill my TR3 tank to the top, the fuel leaks out the breather and the sending unit. I bought a new sending unit gasket and plan to put it in with Permatex non-hardening sealer. Is there anything else to do to the gauge sending unit so it won't leak? I have considered making paper gaskets and using about 3 of them with Permatex and screw them down tight. Also, I see fuel coming out around the tank vent. I have the proper washers, but they don't seal it up. I was thinking about using homemade gaskets, Permatex or both. Is there a trick to keep this from leaking? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Oct 12 13:44:40 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 12:44:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Trapazoidal Front Side Lamps Message-ID: <517351.98343.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am thinking about trying to seal up the treads on the mounting studs for the front side lamps for early '74 TR6 so that next time I remove them they don't snap off from being rusty. I plan to us a SS nyloc nut and some anti-seize. There are still a lot of threads exposed in the wheel well. How do you prevent them from rusting? Paint? Undercoat? grease & some sort of tape or sleeve? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From dlylis at gmail.com Mon Oct 12 14:10:59 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 20:10:59 +0000 Subject: [TR] wire wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob, Depending upon the price of the wheels I would think twice about buying used. I put brand new Dunlop wheels on my TR6 and to get them to balance and run true I had to ship the wheels and tires to Hendrix Wire Wheel and have them trued and balanced. This added about 50% more to the cost. If you do not know the history of wheels of this type I would think long and hard. You may end up spending nearly the cost of new Daytons and have used wheels in the end. Something I wish I had done. I value engineered it for a few hundred bucks which quickly disappeared. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Bob Streepy" Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:01:38 To: Triumph Mailing List Subject: [TR] wire wheels Triumphistae, I'm planning to look at a set of used chrome 60-spoke wire wheels. The seller isn't sure if they are Dayton or Dunlop. Based on general hearsay, I think I would prefer Dayton. Does anyone know of a way to visually tell the difference between the two brands? Any and all comments most welcome regarding either manufacturer. TIA Bob Streepy _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 12 15:33:20 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:33:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Trapazoidal Front Side Lamps In-Reply-To: <517351.98343.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <517351.98343.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > I am thinking about trying to seal up the treads on the > mounting studs for the front side lamps for early '74 TR6 so > that next time I remove them they don't snap off from being > rusty. I've found that just anti-seize is adequate in our relatively benign SoCA environment. None of the bolts on my wrecked TR3A has put up a fight, even though many of them have had exposed threads for nearly 20 years. However, here are some thoughts: 1) What about replacing the studs with SS? 2) I've been experimenting with CRC SP-400 corrosion inhibitor, which is the closest thing to the old military Cosmolene that I've been able to find so far. It sprays on like a heavy oil, but the surface dries to a waxy crust. So far it seems to work well, but I've only tried it for storing machined parts. 3) Would it help to cut off the excess length of the studs? -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 12 15:36:24 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:36:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Gauge Sending Unit & Breather Leaks In-Reply-To: <214392.90749.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <214392.90749.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <32FF13F9E9AC448D9F9099710750D00F@jdnet.deere.com> > I bought a new sending > unit gasket and plan to put it in with Permatex non-hardening > sealer. Permatex dissolves in ethyl alcohol, which is being added to our fuel these days. I'd suggest Hylomar instead. Plus of course the usual about making sure the surfaces are clean and flat, etc. Are you sure the sending unit itself isn't leaking? -- Randall From jimbpps at cox.net Mon Oct 12 15:37:50 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:37:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: Need help in California - Arcata - A Team Building Exercise Message-ID: <702CDCA915E4458D9F4B9F253BD142DF@JimofficePC> A great 'died on the road' story! Glad it worked out so well for the 'BC Bunch!! Jim Jim Bauder 13534 E. Estrella Ave. Scottsdale, AZ 85259 480-309-9525 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan Reich Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 12:15 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Need help in California - Arcata - A Team Building Exercise I sent the message below out to the List on Monday, Oct 5th, at about 3:00PM. I got a lot of helpful advice and ordered a head gasket set from British Parts Northwest. They were extremely helpful and got the set to me at about 10:15 the next day. We had the car together in about an hour, packed up, had lunch and hit the road abot 1:00PM. A great "Team Building" exercise for myself and the other five members of the British Columbia Triumph Registry Club! Allan Reich ******************************************* Greetings Just blew a head gasket on TR3 on way back to Vancouver Canada from Triumphest! Stopped at Days Inn in Arcata - North of Eureka Can anybody help ..need gasket or suggestion where and how ..have cell phone 619-906-9490 We have all the tools, know-how and manpower ... need GASKET!!! Allan Reich 1960 TR3A Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From jimbpps at cox.net Mon Oct 12 15:44:09 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:44:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: Transproter advice Message-ID: <5505DD9A2E164FC681512E27897EA1A0@JimofficePC> Listers and Friends, A not so nice 'died on the road' story! Sorry Dave, but I don't have any advice for you! Good luck!! FYI! Dave Massey was the fellow who would was occasionally playing the bag pipes at SLO! Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 12:22 PM To: tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu; triumphs at autox.team.net; triumphs at sltoa.org Subject: [TR] Transproter advice Folks, an unfortunate thing happened on the way back from SLO. Last Saturday morning found us in Lymon, CO. Unfortunately the cold front found us as well. And I found some black ice and put the car into a guard rail. The car now rests quietly 646 miles from home and one option of getting it back is to use a transporter service. The car still runs and I think it is drivable for short distances. Heck, I could probably drive it home but the wife won't let me. Any recommendations of transporter services? Dave Massey Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From pboldtrix at juno.com Mon Oct 12 15:51:44 2009 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 21:51:44 GMT Subject: [TR] TR6 Trapazoidal Front Side Lamps Message-ID: <20091012.175144.20129.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> Bill.....try a blob of silicone sealant on them. Phil Bacon ---------- Original Message ---------- From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR6 Trapazoidal Front Side Lamps Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 12:44:40 -0700 (PDT) I am thinking about trying to seal up the treads on the mounting studs for the front side lamps for early '74 TR6 so that next time I remove them they don't snap off from being rusty. I plan to us a SS nyloc nut and some anti-seize. There are still a lot of threads exposed in the wheel well. How do you prevent them from rusting? Paint? Undercoat? grease & some sort of tape or sleeve? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive ____________________________________________________________ Sell Gold for Cash Here GMA, Today Show and CNBC all say...Sell Gold Now! A Rated BBB member. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=rWPY-9P50BnzA7i-JYtNWwAAJz1zz45 8BJiLsnEJJ59KLgd5AAQAAAAFAAAAAFTjJT4AAANSAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAmSJwAAAAA= From amfoto1 at aol.com Mon Oct 12 16:00:06 2009 From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:00:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR250 Wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC199E7E57501A-2CB8-25892@webmail-m051.sysops.aol.com> Hi Ed, Interesting question. I'm pretty sure the option with TR250/5 would have been 60-spoke wheels,?painted "argent". Chrome wires were pretty pricey and?uncommon back in those days. Triumph was all about frugality so I doubt they would ever have offered them. Maybe some dealers offered them on their own. The real boom in chrome wires has been among restorers putting these cars back on the road over the past 15 or 20 years. 48-spoke were?offered with TR2/3, and I'm pretty sure were offered painted body colors, either to match or contrast,?in at least one factory spares catalog that I've seen. Either late TR3A/B era or early TR4 the switch was made to 60-spoke wires. I think my TR4 and 4A catalogs only show 60-spoke, and only painted "argent". But a later?edition or reprint of?any particular?factory catalog might have deleted?reference to accessories that had been discontinued. I really don't know if 72-spoke were ever a factory/or dealer option,?but perhaps they came later during TR6 era. I don't have reference to any TR6 catalogs. Some dealers might have offered?72-spoke as an upgrade, too,?I?would guess, independent of the factory.? If you are going for originality, you might look at?VTR concours judging criteria. Or perhaps someone could?check Roger Williams' and Bill Piggot's books to see if they have an answer. Alan Myers San Jose, California amfoto1 at aol.com Triumphfest Autocross & more photos: www.amfoto1.printroom.com '62 TR4 CT17602L www.triumphowners.com/640 -----Original Message----- Message: 8 Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 22:20:45 -0400 From: "Ed Woods" Subject: [TR] TR250 Wheels To: Message-ID: <61023712C87841B183F04E5742E3BC6B at Edscomputer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" List, What wire wheel options were offered by the factory on the TR250? 60 spoke painted? 60 spoke chrome? 72 spoke painted? 72 spoke chrome? Were the same options offered throughout TR6 production also? TIA, Ed Woods ------------------------------ From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Oct 12 16:36:07 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 15:36:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR250 Wheels In-Reply-To: <8CC199E7E57501A-2CB8-25892@webmail-m051.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC199E7E57501A-2CB8-25892@webmail-m051.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: 72 Spoke Dayton wire wheels were a factory option on the TR6 up through 1973, they were rare because of the expense. I know this because we are constantly explaining it to Concours d' Elegance Judges. Fortunately we have the original parts catalogs which confirm the wire wheels .. also mentions Michelin X redlines. >Chrome wires were pretty pricey and?uncommon back in those days. >Triumph was all about frugality so I doubt they would ever have >offered them. Maybe some dealers offered them on their own. The real >boom in chrome wires has been among restorers putting these cars >back on the road over the past 15 or 20 years. > > >I really don't know if 72-spoke were ever a factory/or dealer >option,?but perhaps they came later during TR6 era. I don't have >reference to any TR6 catalogs. Some dealers might have >offered?72-spoke as an upgrade, too,?I?would guess, independent of >the factory.? > -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Oct 12 16:40:35 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 22:40:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Heater Steam In-Reply-To: <4AD2729C.9000405@rmi.net> Message-ID: <968117523.4241331255387235972.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Haven'tB looked under the hood yet, but question before I do.B We're expecting snow in the high elevations tomorrow.B Will doubtless clear for several weeks, meaning I can drive the TR3A through the rest of Oct. and into November at a minimum (statistically). Tried the heater this morning, and steam coated the windshield. No water in oil, none in the exhaust.B But also no wet spots under the heater core.B Would a coolant leak under the hood get suckedB up into the heater intake and come into the cockpit as steam? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Oct 12 16:50:31 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 22:50:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] wire wheels In-Reply-To: <20091012203556.E59E7187885@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <177431581.4245631255387831033.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >B B B B B B B B I'm planning to look at a set of used chrome 60-spoke wire wheels. The >seller isn't sure if they are Dayton or Dunlop. Based on general hearsay, I >think I would prefer Dayton. Does anyone know of a way to visually tell the >difference between the two brands? Any and all comments most welcome >regarding either manufacturer. I bought my wire wheels used and am completely satisfied, for a fraction of the cost of new.B But then, I bought them from the President of a Connecticut MGB car club.B Felt I could trust him to know what he was selling and to be honest about it.B I did and he was. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Oct 12 16:53:29 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 22:53:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Gauge Sending Unit & Breather Leaks In-Reply-To: <32FF13F9E9AC448D9F9099710750D00F@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <1397992792.4246441255388009768.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Permatex dissolves in ethyl alcohol, which is being added to our fuel these >days. B I'd suggest Hylomar instead. B Plus of course the usual about making >sure the surfaces are clean and flat, etc. I retrofitted a SunPro sending unit for a complete guage replacement using Hylomar, paper gaskets and a plexiglas fabricated adapter.B Works great, no leaks.B Randall is right. (...Wait, that's getting to be a redundancy in terms, what???) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 12 16:54:43 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:54:43 EDT Subject: [TR] [Wedge] Transproter advice Message-ID: In a message dated 10/12/2009 4:43:31 PM Central Daylight Time, oldtoys at charter.net writes: > I hope you and Linda are OK. > > I have hauled a Triumph inside a box van truck. But you have the issue of > finding a ramp or lift to get it in and out. > I forgot to mention we are both fine. We hit the post at about 15 MPH and the door protected us. Those wedges are tough little cars. I've driven plenty of box van trucks but as you say, the floor of the van is 4 ft off the ground. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 12 16:57:05 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:57:05 EDT Subject: [TR] FW: Transproter advice Message-ID: In a message dated 10/12/2009 5:07:34 PM Central Daylight Time, jimbpps at cox.net writes: > FYI! Dave Massey was the fellow who would was occasionally playing the > bag pipes > at SLO! > Just to put away any concerns, the pipes are fine. So are we. Dave From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Mon Oct 12 17:16:24 2009 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:16:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Gauge Sending Unit & Breather Leaks References: <214392.90749.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0071877AD227474CBEFC9F0DA138BD96@Dell> Make sure the Permatex variant you use is not soluable in gasoline or it will find it's way into the tank and form nice little rubberish srtrings that combine to form perfectly sized plugs inside the fuel line. Learned that the hard way. You shouldn't need any sealer on that gasket if both surfaces are clean and smooth and I think multiple gaskets just give more opportunities for leaks. Where is it leaking around the overflow? Where the bolt goes into the tank, around the banjo fitting, or out the overflow? I seem to recall a fiber washer that goes between the banjo fitting and the tank that is hard to find, but I think an "O" ring will work there. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 12:40 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Gauge Sending Unit & Breather Leaks > When I fill my TR3 tank to the top, the fuel leaks out the breather > and > the sending unit. I bought a new sending unit gasket and plan to put it in > with Permatex non-hardening sealer. Is there anything else to do to the > gauge > sending unit so it won't leak? I have considered making paper gaskets and > using about 3 of them with Permatex and screw them down tight. > Also, I see fuel coming out around the tank vent. I have the proper > washers, but they don't seal it up. I was thinking about using homemade > gaskets, Permatex or both. Is there a trick to keep this from leaking? > TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 12 17:21:45 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:21:45 EDT Subject: [TR] Heater Steam Message-ID: In a message dated 10/12/2009 6:08:18 PM Central Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: > Tried the heater this morning, and steam coated the windshield. No water > in > oil, none in the exhaust.B But also no wet spots under the heater core.B > Would a coolant leak under the hood get suckedB up into the heater intake > and > come into the cockpit as steam? > Two things come to mind: 1) since this is the first time you tried your heater recently there might have been some water that had found its way into the heater and the heat caused it to vaproize and then condense on the windscreen, and 2) your heater leaks. These heaters are really robust and will tolerate much more than a modern heater but they will still leak. If the steaming continues then I would have to say it is #2. But since the heater is made of coper coils it may be repairable. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 12 17:50:25 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:50:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Heater Steam In-Reply-To: <968117523.4241331255387235972.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <4AD2729C.9000405@rmi.net> <968117523.4241331255387235972.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > Would a coolant leak > under the hood get suckedB up into the heater intake and > come into the cockpit as steam? Certainly not with a stock TR3 heater. They have no outside air intake, and only recirculate air within the cockpit. Could it be that your cockpit had relatively warm, moist air and the windshield was colder? Otherwise, I think you're looking at a pinhole water leak in the heater core or hoses leading to it. -- Randall From jdinnis at gmail.com Mon Oct 12 17:50:51 2009 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:50:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Transproter advice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Where's home Dave? Maybe we could arrange a trailer relay? The spridget guys pulled this off last year and we can't let them out do us! On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 2:22 PM, wrote: > Folks, an unfortunate thing happened on the way back from SLO. Last > Saturday morning found us in Lymon, CO. Unfortunately the cold front found us as > well. And I found some black ice and put the car into a guard rail. The > car now rests quietly 646 miles from home and one option of getting it back is > to use a transporter service. The car still runs and I think it is > drivable for short distances. Heck, I could probably drive it home but the wife > won't let me. > > Any recommendations of transporter services? > > Dave Massey > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 12 18:10:28 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 17:10:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Heater Steam In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > But since the heater is made of coper coils it > may be repairable. I wouldn't bet on it. It's actually wide, flat tubes formed into a rather tight circle; my favorite radiator repair shop said there was no way they could do anything with it unless the leak just happened to be on the outside edge of one of the tubes. It wasn't. -- Randall From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Mon Oct 12 18:12:58 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:12:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: Transproter advice In-Reply-To: <5505DD9A2E164FC681512E27897EA1A0@JimofficePC> References: <5505DD9A2E164FC681512E27897EA1A0@JimofficePC> Message-ID: FYI! Dave Massey was the fellow who would was occasionally playing the bag pipes at SLO! Are you implying that that had something to do with his crash? I don't think I have ever seen him play them while driving! %^) Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 12 19:03:34 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 21:03:34 EDT Subject: [TR] Transproter advice Message-ID: In a message dated 10/12/2009 6:50:59 PM Central Daylight Time, jdinnis at gmail.com writes: > Where's home Dave? Maybe we could arrange a trailer relay? The > spridget guys pulled this off last year and we can't let them out do > us! > The car is in Goodland, KS (mile marker 17) and home is St. Louis. Google maps says 646 miles and a little over 10 hours. I can make the round trip in a weekend. Just considering the alternatives. Dave From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Oct 12 19:15:51 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 21:15:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: References: <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <4AD39C87.14882.4C0906@localhost> On 12 Oct 2009 at 12:14, John Herrera wrote something. I have quoted it in its entirety because it is so true, so accurate. My wife, who doesn't drive a shift tranny, who certainly doesn't drive my cars, and who drives at all very infrequently, said John;s note would be funny if it weren't so true. We drive the GT6 and turn heads. Most are the heads of bored women in the passenger seats of SUVs driven by husbands intent on passing us. They turn and smile as we slide backwards. You can read their faces: "I wish I were riding in that. Instead of in this." Some are the heads of men who stare for a few seconds, give a thumbs up, then floor the loud pedal in an effort to recapture lost youth. You can read their faces too: resignation. No hollow cheeks, for they eat too well. Poor souls. Hollow souls. Lost souls. When I drive either the GT6 or the Spitfire I smile inside and out. I'll keep driving them for as long as I am able. Jim Muller (John H., look what you've made me do.) > I really don't want to retire from the TR hobby. > > > > I have a chronic illness and am unable to work. I can't work on the TR3 much > anymore; not even clean it. I rarely have the enegy to drive it. > > > > My only income is a meager Social Security Disability payment. I am up to here > in credit card debt. I could sell the car to pay off the debt, but instead, I > charge more parts. > > > > Why, then, don't I sell the TR3 and retire from the hobby? > > > > I could say that I love the car so much that I can't bring myself to live > without it. Or that the camaraderie of the TR community keeps me going. Or > even that driving the car, however rarely, gives me pleasure and the desire to > live. > > > > But it's none of these. No, it's because I can't stand to become one of those > guys who spend their empty days hanging about gas stations, quickie marts, > restaurants, etc. > > > > They wait and wait for a TR3 to drive up. > > > > Broken men. > > > > Forgotten men. > > > > Men with hollow cheeks and glazed-over eyes with a far-away look in them. > > > > "I used to have one of these", they say to you in a husky voice as they try to > hold back the emotion. > > > > I don't want to become like that, so I'll try to keep my car a little longer. From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 12 19:18:57 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 21:18:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Heater Steam Message-ID: In a message dated 10/12/2009 7:38:37 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > I wouldn't bet on it. It's actually wide, flat tubes formed into a > rather > tight circle; my favorite radiator repair shop said there was no way they > could do anything with it unless the leak just happened to be on the > outside > edge of one of the tubes. > > It wasn't. > Bummer. When I pulled mine out (not because of a leak) it was about half full of sediment. It also had swelled to the point that the fan blades were bound up. I flushed and pounded and flushed and pounded to get as much of the sediment out as I could (still didn't get it all) and then compressed it back into shape and the heater works just fine (or did until I took the car apart some years later - the never ending project) Still no leaks. Dave From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Oct 12 19:19:48 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 21:19:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Trapazoidal Front Side Lamps In-Reply-To: <517351.98343.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <517351.98343.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CC19BA6405666D-2130-6128@webmail-d040.sysops.aol.com> Hi Bill, At NAPA and probably every other FLAPS the will sell some strips of black sealant.? The stuff I used came in a box with different layers separated with wax paper.? I took some of this stuff and encapsulated the end of the nut and bolt to keep the road mess off from it. YMMV. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Mon, Oct 12, 2009 3:44 pm Subject: [TR] TR6 Trapazoidal Front Side Lamps I am thinking about trying to seal up the treads on the mounting studs for the front side lamps for early '74 TR6 so that next time I remove them they don't snap off from being rusty. I plan to us a SS nyloc nut and some anti-seize. There are still a lot of threads exposed in the wheel well. How do you prevent them from rusting? Paint? Undercoat? grease & some sort of tape or sleeve? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 12 19:19:58 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 21:19:58 EDT Subject: [TR] FW: Transproter advice Message-ID: In a message dated 10/12/2009 7:38:57 PM Central Daylight Time, rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: > FYI! Dave Massey was the fellow who would was occasionally playing the > bag > pipes at SLO! > > > Are you implying that that had something to do with his crash? > > I don't think I have ever seen him play them while driving! %^) > > Maybe I do. But at least I don't text when I drive. Dave From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Oct 12 19:24:37 2009 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 20:24:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Selling my 73 TR6 References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> <38CDFFCCE0574F38A7C61B9533EDCC10@RossFamily> Message-ID: <57DCD432E3484F04BF390CE65BBE5041@yourpd3mh0abgs> retiring from sunbeam tiger hobby. anyone want one that is very complete, needs assembly but has fresh paint for 12k? new engine, trans....a real one, too, not a fake. Best, Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne" To: "Jim Bauder" ; Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 11:11 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Selling my 73 TR6 > Retiring from the TR hobby. > It would be nice to have the car go to someone who enjoys the classic car > hobby and not just someone > who wants to beat on it, but it just does'nt fit my lifestyle anymore. > > Wayne > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jim Bauder" > To: "'Wayne'" > Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 6:27 PM > Subject: RE: [TR] Selling my 73 TR6 > > >> Wayne, >> >> I am sorry to hear you are selling your TR6. It sounds like you spent a >> lot of >> time (and money!) on it. >> >> Are you planning on replacing it or are you 'retiring' from the TR hobby? >> >> Regards and good luck, >> >> Jim >> Jim Bauder >> 480-309-9525 >> '68 TR250 CD47L >> Scottsdale, AZ >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Wayne >> Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 7:46 PM >> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] Selling my 73 TR6 >> >> Well, I decided to sell my 73 TR6. I've owned it for 26 of it's 36 years. >> Purchased back in 1983 >> from a car dealer (his car) in Newport RI, before him it was owned by a >> man in >> Denver CO (original owner). >> >> I just finished an engine rebuild and still have the break-in oil in it >> (about >> 300 miles on it). >> The car looks and runs great. I just completed a complete engine re-build >> and >> the car is registered and on the road. >> >> Engine (first ever re-build): >> Cylinders were bored .020 over. >> New pistons. >> Head milled down to 3.445" thick to get 9:1 compression ratio. >> New valve seats. >> New valve guides. >> New conrod, main bearings (.020" over). >> New Piper 270 Cam. >> New TRF carpet kit (light brown with new tan trim) New TRF Magic clutch >> kit. >> New rear springs. >> Completely rebuilt/new brakes , lines, hoses, front stainless steel >> caliper >> pistons, new rotors, new master cylinder. >> Rebuilt rocker arm assembly with bushings added to rockers (by Rocker Arm >> Specialists, Anderson, CA). >> New oil pump. >> New timing chain. >> >> >> >> Wayne >> Westport, MA >> 1973 TR6 >> Mallard/New Tan >> Comm# CF7106U >> Engine# CF7234UE >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From mark at bradakis.com Mon Oct 12 21:35:04 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 21:35:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR250 Wheels In-Reply-To: <8CC199E7E57501A-2CB8-25892@webmail-m051.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC199E7E57501A-2CB8-25892@webmail-m051.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4AD3F568.1020403@bradakis.com> > I really don't know if 72-spoke were ever a factory/or dealer option,?but perhaps they came later during TR6 era. Yes, 72 spoke silver painted wires were factory options on earlier ( pre '73? ) TR6s. The earliest TR6 I had, CC25064, had them. mjb. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Oct 12 21:32:52 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 23:32:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? Message-ID: <73CA5050177A4D39860430B8C93EB15D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Long time, no see!... Wasn't it several years ago (and what was done...if anything?) when there was a suggestion possibly about a 'list' or a 'directory' of LBC members homes so to avoid being stranded like this: Eureka Can anybody help ..need gasket or suggestion where and how ..have cell phone 619-906-xxxx We have all the tools, know-how and manpower ... need GASK... Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 (still have never driven a Triumph (SHNDAT) and mine lacks alot) From davidt at opentext.com Mon Oct 12 22:01:19 2009 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 00:01:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] OT: Storage shed Message-ID: From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Oct 12 22:28:40 2009 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 00:28:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR250 Wheels References: <8CC199E7E57501A-2CB8-25892@webmail-m051.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Here's an answer from Bill Pugh sumitted to the FOT list: "72 Spoke Dayton wire wheels were a factory option on the TR6 up through 1973, they were rare because of the expense. I know this because we are constantly explaining it to Concours d' Elegance Judges. Fortunately we have the original parts catalogs which confirm the wire wheels .. also mentions Michelin X redlines." Ed Woods From davidt at opentext.com Mon Oct 12 22:41:11 2009 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 00:41:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] OT: Storage shed - 2nd try :-P Message-ID: Evening all, In need of the sage advice that this list contains :-) I am looking at building a garage to store the TR3a and the spitfire at the new place I am at. I am thinking something like 15' x 16', due to the limited space. Yes, I know it will be tight for both :-P Questions: - Anyone built a garage/shed this size? - Anyone have plans for something like this? - Anyone got a ballpark costing on something like this? - concrete floor - outer shell, 2x4, 2x6? - simple truss roof - optional: side door - simple garage door Thanks David Templeton - 59 TR3a - 74 Spitsix From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Oct 12 23:46:02 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 01:46:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] OT: Storage shed - 2nd try :-P In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC19DF9518B98D-298C-5F57@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> Hi David, I must have missed? your first try, sorry.? Unfortunately, despite your best intentions you really havent given enough information.? First and foremost would be are you building this yourself, are you sub-contracting all or part of the project, or are you having the work done by someone else? Having said that, prices can be very different for materials and labor depending on where in the country you are, what time of the year it is, what condition the site is, etc, etc. I think the best way to get a start on figuring out what a ball park figure is would be to call a handful of local contractors and have them come over and give you an estimate.? Request a breakdown of costs for material and for labor and from there you can probably get a decent idea of how much your project will cost. For instance, most likely you will not be doing your own concrete work.? But the costs of concrete work where I live in Maine and where someone else lives with no danger of frost, say in Florida can be vastly different.? For me putting in a garage on my property would probably require drilling and blasting of some substantial ledge. So there are many, many variables that can significantly affect price.? Free estimates with a labor and materials cost broken out should give you the most accurate answers to the questions you are looking for.? Alternatively, you can Google "garage cost per square foot" and come up with quite a few hits with a variety of information.? The first one I turned up was this link: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/garages/msg0216345812692.html?8 At that site they give estimates of approximately $55 per square foot.? Your 15' X 16' would be 240 square feet times $55 would be $13200. But that will vary depending on the same variables listed above.? One good thing in your favor, the construction industry is in a lull so the bidding and offers should be competitive and you should be able to get the work done quickly.? If you go this route ask for references and request to see finished work and talk to previous clients. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: David Templeton To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Oct 13, 2009 12:41 am Subject: [TR] OT: Storage shed - 2nd try :-P Evening all, In need of the sage advice that this list contains :-) I am looking at building a garage to store the TR3a and the spitfire at the new place I am at. I am thinking something like 15' x 16', due to the limited space. Yes, I know it will be tight for both :-P Questions: - Anyone built a garage/shed this size? - Anyone have plans for something like this? - Anyone got a ballpark costing on something like this? - concrete floor - outer shell, 2x4, 2x6? - simple truss roof - optional: side door - simple garage door Thanks David Templeton - 59 TR3a - 74 Spitsix This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 13 04:02:54 2009 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 03:02:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Electrical &/or Mechanical Fuel Pumps Message-ID: <655541.93923.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List! I just got back on the digest list after being off of it since July '07, so Hi to EVERYONE! I have a question about installing an electric fuel pump into my TR4A. I have had some people's input, but I'm still in question on this topic. I had trouble when driving out to VTR'09 & I belief it was some form of 'vapor lock'? Now, I don't know if the Ethanol gas was the cause on the manual diaphragm's failure, was a factor in lowering the boiling point of the gas to increase the chance of getting 'vapor lock', or a combination of both?Though I'm reluctant to install an Electric Fuel Pump (EFP), I'm thinking that if I had one installed, then I may not have had the fuel problems that I did. (A long story & would be willing to send you my story as I have written in my daily journal when I arrive home on 10-20-2009. E-mail me off the list if you want it.) What's the condenses of the lst on this: 1. To install an EFP or not? 2. To install the EFP only or with the Manual Fuel Pump, too? 3. IF I do have BOTH fuel pumps installed, then should they be in series or parallel. 4. How would you advise the installation should be if in: A. Series? B. Parallel? I already have a stop cock right AFTERthe fuel cell & another one BEFOREthe Manual Fuel Pump. So take the routing from the stop cock after the fuel cell to the carb'sfloat bowels. -Cosmo Kramer PS- It was great meeting new faces at VTR '09, & I wish that I could have made it out there in my TR4A. From jmitch at snet.net Tue Oct 13 04:40:19 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 06:40:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] OT: Storage shed - 2nd try :-P In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4AD45913.7040507@snet.net> I recently purchased a prebuilt 12' X 16' wood shed with 8' double doors and windows, cupola, reinforced wood floor, and a small loft. There are several company's in Connecticut that do custom sheds, so I'm sure there out there in your area too. I prepared a site of 6"x8" railroad ties, enclosing a gravel bed. They delivered and placed it on site for $4000.00. It's winter storage for my 6 and makes a nice picnic enclosure during the summer. John Mitchell 76TR6 72 Stag David Templeton wrote: > Evening all, > > In need of the sage advice that this list contains :-) I am looking at > building a garage to store the TR3a and the spitfire at the new place I > am at. I am thinking something like 15' x 16', due to the limited > space. Yes, I know it will be tight for both :-P > > Questions: > > - Anyone built a garage/shed this size? > - Anyone have plans for something like this? > - Anyone got a ballpark costing on something like this? > - concrete floor > - outer shell, 2x4, 2x6? > - simple truss roof > - optional: side door > - simple garage door > > > Thanks > David Templeton > - 59 TR3a > - 74 Spitsix From jmitch at snet.net Tue Oct 13 04:43:33 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 06:43:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR250 Wheels In-Reply-To: References: <8CC199E7E57501A-2CB8-25892@webmail-m051.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4AD459D5.3000403@snet.net> I've also heard that some 76's left the factory with wires, as they were using up left over parts. John Mitchell 76 TR6 with chrome Daytons Ed Woods wrote: > Here's an answer from Bill Pugh sumitted to the FOT list: > > "72 Spoke Dayton wire wheels were a factory option on the TR6 up > through 1973, they were rare because of the expense. I know this > because we are constantly explaining it to Concours d' Elegance > Judges. Fortunately we have the original parts catalogs which confirm > the wire wheels .. also mentions Michelin X redlines." > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Oct 13 05:26:07 2009 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 07:26:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: TR250 Wheels Message-ID: <9635AD43886B47A0BACE395322163050@Edscomputer> > Here's an answer from Bill Pugh sumitted to the FOT list: > > "72 Spoke Dayton wire wheels were a factory option on the TR6 up > through 1973, they were rare because of the expense. I know this > because we are constantly explaining it to Concours d' Elegance > Judges. Fortunately we have the original parts catalogs which > confirm the wire wheels .. also mentions Michelin X redlines." > > Ed Woods From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Oct 13 06:00:31 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 08:00:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electrical &/or Mechanical Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: <655541.93923.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <655541.93923.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200910130800.32647.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 13 October 2009 06:02:54 am Cosmo Kramer wrote: > Hi List! > I just got back on the digest list after being off of it since July > '07, so Hi to EVERYONE! > > I have a question about installing an electric fuel > pump into my TR4A. I have had some people's input, but I'm still in > question on this topic. > > I had trouble when driving out to VTR'09 & I belief it was > some form of 'vapor lock'? Now, I don't know if the Ethanol gas was the > cause on the manual diaphragm's failure, was a factor in lowering the > boiling point of the gas to increase the chance of getting 'vapor lock', or > a combination of both?Though I'm reluctant to install an Electric Fuel Pump > (EFP), I'm thinking that if I had one installed, then I may not have had > the fuel problems that I did. (A long story & would be willing to send you > my story as I have written in my daily journal when I arrive home on > 10-20-2009. E-mail me off the list if you want it.) > > What's the condenses of the lst on this: > 1. To install an > EFP or not? Cosmo, I have the Facet EFP on both my 3 and 4 and there will be one on my 6 project. Mounted on the back of the trunk just to the left of the fuel tank outlet. Regulator mounted on a plate bolted to where the original fuel pump bolted to the block. Fuel filters before the pump and before the regulator. 4 seasons on the 4 and 2 on the 3 with no fuel delivery problems at all. > 2. To install the EFP only or with the Manual Fuel Pump, too? EFP only. > 3. > IF I do have BOTH fuel pumps installed, then should they be in series or > parallel. Why bother with the manual pump unless you want to maintain originality. > 4. How would you advise the installation should be if in: > A. Series? > B. Parallel? > > I already have a stop cock right AFTERthe fuel cell & another > one BEFOREthe Manual Fuel Pump. So take the routing from the stop cock > after the fuel cell to the carb'sfloat bowels. I have heard it is best to install the pump closest to the fuel tank or cell in your case. Bob From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Oct 13 07:26:29 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 06:26:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electrical &/or Mechanical Fuel Pumps In-Reply-To: <200910130800.32647.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <655541.93923.qm@web51605.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <200910130800.32647.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0910130626g74c590b5l33b4f62267476b91@mail.gmail.com> Hey Cosmo -- I heard about your adventure from your friends in Arizona. FWIW, I still have the mechanical pump but always carry a spare electric for a quick fix on the road. http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Electric%20Pump%201.JPG Takes just a couple of minutes to put it in-line with the existing fuel hoses. It's a simple (cheap) pump from the FLAPS though many other sorts are out there. Geo From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Oct 13 07:52:29 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 13:52:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? CONTROL HEAD Solution (one of many) In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0910120743w68fde74fj295fbf74f265a06a@mail.gmail.com> References: <488089773.3413381255128663412.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1911803451.3416501255129441724.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Another alternative if you want the horn and turn signals to work is to switch to a TR4 steering column. Best regards, Tom > Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 07:43:22 -0700 > From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's??? CONTROL HEAD Solution (one of many) > > On 10/11/09, A Daniel Cronin wrote: > > In regards to the turn signal function when converting to R and P steering, > > The folks at Bastuck also sell as a separate item the "slip ring" that is a > > part of their kit (BP Northwest)... > > Also, Bob S's "More BS" shows a DIY slip ring for just the horn that > may be an alternative for the crafty & thrifty: > > http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/R%26P-slip-ring.JPG > > Geo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/ From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Oct 13 07:52:22 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 09:52:22 EDT Subject: [TR] TR250 Wheels Message-ID: In a message dated 10/10/2009 10:37:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: List, What wire wheel options were offered by the factory on the TR250? 60 spoke painted? 60 spoke chrome? 72 spoke painted? 72 spoke chrome? Were the same options offered throughout TR6 production also? Ed, I am going to say, for the TR250, 60 spoke painted wires only no chrome. Others have answered the TR6 and I agree that fitment of 72 spoke painted wires up to 73 is likely but also no chrome. That's from the factory. That being said, it has been accepted for VTR Concours Judging that 72 spoke painted & Chrome wires are "period equipment" and allowed w/o deduction for both TR 250's and all years of TR6's. This is consistant with the rule on TR3's where 60 spoke wires are permited in place of 48 spoke. Cheers, Darrell From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Oct 13 07:57:46 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 13:57:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> Message-ID: >I have a chronic illness and am unable to work. I can't work on the TR3 much >anymore; not even clean it. I rarely have the energy to drive it. >My only income is a meager Social Security Disability payment. I am up to here >in credit card debt. I could sell the car to pay off the debt, but instead, I >charge more parts. Take heart you are not alone. I am in the same position. I am not selling mine. It is that infrequent day when I get to do some work on the car or take it for a drive that makes my live meaningful. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ From tr4zest at gmail.com Tue Oct 13 07:59:48 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 09:59:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? In-Reply-To: References: <73CA5050177A4D39860430B8C93EB15D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Brian Jones Date: Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 5:39 AM Subject: Re: [TR] (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? To: dorpaul Paul, There is a Traveler Assistance Program on the VTR site: http://www.vtr.org/travelAssist/index.shtml I have submitted my information twice, but I'm not on the list. I think the VTR may not have the resources to update it - nevertheless, I printed this out and took it with me on my cross-country trip to the VTR National/Triumphest. Looking again just now I see a date on it: May 18, 2006. Regards, Brian On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 11:32 PM, dorpaul wrote: > Long time, no see!... > > Wasn't it several years ago (and what was done...if anything?) when there > was > a suggestion possibly about a 'list' or a 'directory' of LBC members homes > so > to avoid being stranded like this: > > Eureka Can anybody help ..need gasket > or suggestion where and how ..have cell phone 619-906-xxxx We have all the > tools, know-how and manpower ... need GASK... > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 > (still have never driven a Triumph (SHNDAT) and mine lacks alot) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 13 08:20:37 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 07:20:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR250 Wheels In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20091013142037411.EALZ14562@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> > That > being said, it has been accepted for VTR Concours Judging > that 72 spoke > painted & Chrome wires are "period equipment" I believe Bill Piggott also commented that, although never officially listed as an option, some cars were fitted with chrome wire wheels by the factory. Randall From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Oct 13 08:30:11 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 14:30:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] Red line tires! In-Reply-To: References: <8CC199E7E57501A-2CB8-25892@webmail-m051.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I was watching a hot rod show last week and they demonstrated a painting tool that has been around for many years. It is a small metal wheel mounted in a body that dispenses paint. I have no idea what it's proper name is. Anyway you fill it with paint and then roll the wheel across the surface of what you want painted and it makes a line. In the demonstration they painted a red line around the inside lip of a wheel. I imagine you could use it to make red lines on tires too. Best regards, Tom > Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 15:36:07 -0700 > To: amfoto1 at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > From: anabil007 at comcast.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 Wheels > > 72 Spoke Dayton wire wheels were a factory option on the TR6 up > through 1973, they were rare because of the expense. I know this > because we are constantly explaining it to Concours d' Elegance > Judges. Fortunately we have the original parts catalogs which > confirm the wire wheels .. also mentions Michelin X redlines. > > > >Chrome wires were pretty pricey and?uncommon back in those days. > >Triumph was all about frugality so I doubt they would ever have > >offered them. Maybe some dealers offered them on their own. The real > >boom in chrome wires has been among restorers putting these cars > >back on the road over the past 15 or 20 years. > > > > > >I really don't know if 72-spoke were ever a factory/or dealer > >option,?but perhaps they came later during TR6 era. I don't have > >reference to any TR6 catalogs. Some dealers might have > >offered?72-spoke as an upgrade, too,?I?would guess, independent of > >the factory.? > > > > > -- > "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people > undertake it." - Henry Ford > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 > "Casper" > TS16765L > Wallace, CA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ From mgodley at tiac.net Tue Oct 13 08:34:19 2009 From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 10:34:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] WIre Wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <08E14F47432E4A64B44F9767FE751C32@MichaelPC> "The seller isn't sure if they are Dayton or Dunlop". Bob, My Dunlop WW's are stamped on the inner rim...are the wheels on the sellers car? Need to take one off. Two points I would like to make: First, used wires are a major red flag, especially if the current owner did not buy them. If you really want wires then get new Dayton's. That said if you drive fast and fancy yourself a "spirited" driver, then IMHO get some Panasports or a variant...that's my next step. I have always preferred the way wires look, but keeping the WW's trued and balanced has been "elusive" for me at best Michael Godley 65TR4A ___________________ "The charm of fishing is it is the pursuit of what is elusive, but attainable,a perpetual series of occasions for hope." ************************** From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 13 08:54:33 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 09:54:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] OT: Storage shed - 2nd try :-P References: <4AD45913.7040507@snet.net> Message-ID: <9DBF308D58194411BDFEAB39D6523DF5@ranteer.local> contact: David---954-281-2030 Company Name: US Buildings these people are liquidating metal buildings. nfi, no nothing. but we did just buy a building from them. it has not been delivered yet so like i said, nfi no nothing >> Questions: >> >> - Anyone built a garage/shed this size? >> - Anyone have plans for something like this? >> - Anyone got a ballpark costing on something like this? >> - concrete floor >> - outer shell, 2x4, 2x6? >> - simple truss roof >> - optional: side door >> - simple garage door From tr4zest at gmail.com Tue Oct 13 09:38:39 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 11:38:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> Message-ID: You two are each an inspiration. I hope I will have the conviction to shun the warm slippers and cardigan as my lot; to dismiss the mundane; to reject the easy and obvious and stay with something tangible that, as Tom says, gives me meaning. Brian On Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 9:57 AM, tom white wrote: > >I have a chronic illness and am unable to work. I can't work on the TR3 > much > >anymore; not even clean it. I rarely have the energy to drive it. > >My only income is a meager Social Security Disability payment. I am up to > here > >in credit card debt. I could sell the car to pay off the debt, but > instead, > I > >charge more parts. > > Take heart you are not alone. I am in the same position. I am not selling > mine. > It is that infrequent day when I get to do some work on the car or take it > for > a drive that makes my live meaningful. > > Best regards, > Tom > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From leejohn7 at gmail.com Tue Oct 13 10:09:14 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 09:09:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> Message-ID: I'm not selling mine, either, even as I move further into my 7th decade. In fact, I just bought a Stag project thinking it might be easier to drive, and more amenable to my wife, than the cramped TR4 ( that's still not on the road). Seeing Jonmac's Stag when he and Liz stayed with us only confirmed my decision to expand the fleet. In any case, I always need to have a project - or two or three - clammering for attention, and the Stag promises many, many hours of aching back and bruised knuckles. And satisfaction. So I hope to be on this list for many years to come. John Howard On Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 6:57 AM, tom white wrote: > >I have a chronic illness and am unable to work. I can't work on the TR3 > much > >anymore; not even clean it. I rarely have the energy to drive it. > >My only income is a meager Social Security Disability payment. I am up to > here > >in credit card debt. I could sell the car to pay off the debt, but > instead, > I > >charge more parts. > > Take heart you are not alone. I am in the same position. I am not selling > mine. > It is that infrequent day when I get to do some work on the car or take it > for > a drive that makes my live meaningful. > > Best regards, > Tom > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From thomas309 at aol.com Tue Oct 13 10:48:33 2009 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 12:48:33 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Trapazoidal Front Side Lamps Message-ID: How about some heat shrink tubing, on the threads and nut? In a message dated 10/12/2009 9:54:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, acekraut11 at aol.com writ I am thinking about trying to seal up the treads on the mounting studs for the front side lamps for early '74 TR6 so that next time I remove them they don't snap off from being rusty. I plan to us a SS nyloc nut and some anti-seize. There are still a lot of threads exposed in the wheel well. How do you prevent them from rusting? Paint? Undercoat? grease & some sort of tape or sleeve? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Tue Oct 13 11:17:21 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 17:17:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] WIre Wheels In-Reply-To: <08E14F47432E4A64B44F9767FE751C32@MichaelPC> Message-ID: <1706602866.3509631255454241357.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Michael Godley" wrote: > "The seller isn't sure if they are Dayton or Dunlop". > > If you really want wires then get new Dayton's. No contest. > That > said if > you drive fast and fancy yourself a "spirited" driver, then IMHO get > some > Panasports or a variant...that's my next step. I have always > preferred the > way wires look, but keeping the WW's trued and balanced has been > "elusive" > for me at best I have not had a bit of trouble with the Daytons on the TR4, and I flog the car around the cones now and again. I have done no maintenence to them since I bought them in 2002. That said, the Panasports I use for autocrossing my Caterham are very nice, and I like the way they look on TR4 cars. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From leejohn7 at gmail.com Tue Oct 13 13:20:28 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 12:20:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" In-Reply-To: References: <50387768214A411DB8609C31DEBFF147@JimofficePC> Message-ID: Whoops - I stand corrected by Karl...its my 8th decade! On Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 9:09 AM, Lee&John Howard wrote: > I'm not selling mine, either, even as I move further into my 7th decade. In > fact, I just bought a Stag project thinking it might be easier to drive, and > more amenable to my wife, than the cramped TR4 ( that's still not on the > road). Seeing Jonmac's Stag when he and Liz stayed with us only confirmed > my decision to expand the fleet. In any case, I always need to have a > project - or two or three - clammering for attention, and the Stag promises > many, many hours of aching back and bruised knuckles. And satisfaction. > So I hope to be on this list for many years to come. > John Howard > > On Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 6:57 AM, tom white wrote: > >> >I have a chronic illness and am unable to work. I can't work on the TR3 >> much >> >anymore; not even clean it. I rarely have the energy to drive it. >> >My only income is a meager Social Security Disability payment. I am up to >> here >> >in credit card debt. I could sell the car to pay off the debt, but >> instead, >> I >> >charge more parts. >> >> Take heart you are not alone. I am in the same position. I am not selling >> mine. >> It is that infrequent day when I get to do some work on the car or take it >> for >> a drive that makes my live meaningful. >> >> Best regards, >> Tom >> >> >> >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. >> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From ElangTR4 at aol.com Tue Oct 13 16:13:01 2009 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:13:01 EDT Subject: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros Message-ID: Larry, A guy in our local club has a beautiful BRG TR3A and had Brooklands screens. He'd show up at events with his hair perfectly straight back. One day he said a rock whistled past his ear while driving on the highway. The regular windshield went right back on. He said he could just imagine that rock imbedded in his forehead. Eric 71 TR6 From dlylis at gmail.com Tue Oct 13 16:42:00 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 22:42:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros Message-ID: Does hw want to sell the windscreens? ------Original Message------ From: ElangTR4 at aol.com Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: L1J1S at aol.com Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros Sent: Oct 13, 2009 6:13 PM Larry, A guy in our local club has a beautiful BRG TR3A and had Brooklands screens. He'd show up at events with his hair perfectly straight back. One day he said a rock whistled past his ear while driving on the highway. The regular windshield went right back on. He said he could just imagine that rock imbedded in his forehead. Eric 71 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From spitlist at cox.net Tue Oct 13 16:54:44 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 15:54:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Not to mention BIG BUGS! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ElangTR4 at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 3:13 PM To: L1J1S at aol.com Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros Larry, A guy in our local club has a beautiful BRG TR3A and had Brooklands screens. He'd show up at events with his hair perfectly straight back. One day he said a rock whistled past his ear while driving on the highway. The regular windshield went right back on. He said he could just imagine that rock imbedded in his forehead. Eric 71 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Tue Oct 13 18:02:13 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:02:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? In-Reply-To: References: <73CA5050177A4D39860430B8C93EB15D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <868F0A23C10A486D8081CF2B79EB7570@bboffice> Same here, I just sent it again. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Jones Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 8:00 AM To: email list Subject: [TR] Fwd: (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Brian Jones Date: Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 5:39 AM Subject: Re: [TR] (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? To: dorpaul Paul, There is a Traveler Assistance Program on the VTR site: http://www.vtr.org/travelAssist/index.shtml I have submitted my information twice, but I'm not on the list. I think the VTR may not have the resources to update it - nevertheless, I printed this out and took it with me on my cross-country trip to the VTR National/Triumphest. Looking again just now I see a date on it: May 18, 2006. Regards, Brian On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 11:32 PM, dorpaul wrote: > Long time, no see!... > > Wasn't it several years ago (and what was done...if anything?) when > there was a suggestion possibly about a 'list' or a 'directory' of LBC > members homes so to avoid being stranded like this: > > Eureka Can anybody help ..need gasket > or suggestion where and how ..have cell phone 619-906-xxxx We have > all the tools, know-how and manpower ... need GASK... > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 > (still have never driven a Triumph (SHNDAT) and mine lacks alot) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Tue Oct 13 18:11:50 2009 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 20:11:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? In-Reply-To: References: <73CA5050177A4D39860430B8C93EB15D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: On Oct 13, 2009, at 9:59 AM, Brian Jones wrote: > I have submitted my information twice, but I'm not on the list. I > think the > VTR may not have the resources to update it - nevertheless, I > printed this > out and took it with me on my cross-country trip to the VTR > National/Triumphest Hi Brian, You are correct in your supposition that it is a matter of volunteer resources for updating and publishing the VTR Travel Assistance database. A member stepped up two years ago, but despite his sincere efforts, his job responsibilities have kept him too busy to tend to the list. It's rather straightforward in that it is compiled manually, then converted into a PDF, then uploaded to the site. I've always thought it was an important service for VTR to provide, if anyone would like to pick up the duties, please contact me offlist. If you that person lacks Adobe Acrobat or other PDF-ing software, VTR can help out with that. Cheers, Blake ________________________________________________________________________ Blake J. Discher, President VINTAGE TRIUMPH REGISTER Phone: 313-259-4460 From wbeech at flash.net Tue Oct 13 18:12:25 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:12:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] WIre Wheels In-Reply-To: <08E14F47432E4A64B44F9767FE751C32@MichaelPC> References: <08E14F47432E4A64B44F9767FE751C32@MichaelPC> Message-ID: Take it from my experience, I bought a set of used 60-spokes for the TR3. After a lot of swapping around the car runs out pretty true except from about 58-62MPH, a generally preferred speed for me, where I get just a little wobble in the steering wheel. That said, they are a beautiful red powder coat and on a black car with red interior there isn't a prettier combination for the local show or parade. If this was a daily driver, or I had a do-over,, I would pull the trigger and buy new Daytons. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Godley Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 8:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] WIre Wheels "The seller isn't sure if they are Dayton or Dunlop". Bob, My Dunlop WW's are stamped on the inner rim...are the wheels on the sellers car? Need to take one off. Two points I would like to make: First, used wires are a major red flag, especially if the current owner did not buy them. If you really want wires then get new Dayton's. That said if you drive fast and fancy yourself a "spirited" driver, then IMHO get some Panasports or a variant...that's my next step. I have always preferred the way wires look, but keeping the WW's trued and balanced has been "elusive" for me at best Michael Godley 65TR4A ___________________ "The charm of fishing is it is the pursuit of what is elusive, but attainable,a perpetual series of occasions for hope." ************************** This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Tue Oct 13 19:14:34 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 01:14:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] WIre Wheels In-Reply-To: <1706602866.3509631255454241357.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <645981249.3746781255482874397.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> In this context, I should probably point out again that I bought Dayton painted wheels. The Dayton engineer explained to me why they were stronger and stiffer than the chrome ones. Sue like the stock look and I like the performance. We both like it that they are substantially cheaper. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- pethier at comcast.net wrote: > From: pethier at comcast.net > To: "Michael Godley" > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 12:17:21 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] WIre Wheels > > ----- "Michael Godley" wrote: > > > "The seller isn't sure if they are Dayton or Dunlop". > > > > If you really want wires then get new Dayton's. > > No contest. > > > That > > said if > > you drive fast and fancy yourself a "spirited" driver, then IMHO > get > > some > > Panasports or a variant...that's my next step. I have always > > preferred the > > way wires look, but keeping the WW's trued and balanced has been > > "elusive" > > for me at best > > I have not had a bit of trouble with the Daytons on the TR4, and I > flog the car around the cones now and again. > > I have done no maintenence to them since I bought them in 2002. > > That said, the Panasports I use for autocrossing my Caterham are very > nice, and I like the way they look on TR4 cars. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Oct 13 19:20:35 2009 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 21:20:35 EDT Subject: [TR] OT: Storage shed - 2nd try :-P Message-ID: In a message dated 10/13/09 11:22:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: << these people are liquidating metal buildings. >> I've see this marketing ploy so many times for so long there is no way it can be true. Some manufacturers never seem to advertise anything but unclaimed buildings. You would think they would charge a high enough deposit to prevent so many backouts. Some say they have scratch and dent buildings, no such thing. If a couple of sheets get damaged, pull those from the pile, replace with new and the price goes back to retail. That being said, I have no idea as to the quality of the buildings. There are fabric covered buildings that don't need a building permit in many locals because they are temporary. Clear Span sells large and small ones ( there are two or three divisions that sell different size ranges ) I've been looking at these but have no idea as to quality. Harold From fishplate at charter.net Tue Oct 13 19:58:39 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 21:58:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 06:13 PM 10/13/2009, ElangTR4 at aol.com wrote: > >A guy in our local club has a beautiful BRG TR3A and had Brooklands >screens. He'd show up at events with his hair perfectly straight >back. One day he >said a rock whistled past his ear while driving on the highway. The regular > windshield went right back on. He said he could just imagine that rock >imbedded in his forehead. That's what the goggles and leather flying helmet are for! From dlylis at gmail.com Tue Oct 13 20:11:38 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 02:11:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] WIre Wheels In-Reply-To: References: <08E14F47432E4A64B44F9767FE751C32@MichaelPC> Message-ID: I guess I missed "the seller isn't sure" earlier. Look for "made in India" on Dunlop wheels. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:12:25 To: 'Michael Godley'; Subject: Re: [TR] WIre Wheels Take it from my experience, I bought a set of used 60-spokes for the TR3. After a lot of swapping around the car runs out pretty true except from about 58-62MPH, a generally preferred speed for me, where I get just a little wobble in the steering wheel. That said, they are a beautiful red powder coat and on a black car with red interior there isn't a prettier combination for the local show or parade. If this was a daily driver, or I had a do-over,, I would pull the trigger and buy new Daytons. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Godley Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 8:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] WIre Wheels "The seller isn't sure if they are Dayton or Dunlop". Bob, My Dunlop WW's are stamped on the inner rim...are the wheels on the sellers car? Need to take one off. Two points I would like to make: First, used wires are a major red flag, especially if the current owner did not buy them. If you really want wires then get new Dayton's. That said if you drive fast and fancy yourself a "spirited" driver, then IMHO get some Panasports or a variant...that's my next step. I have always preferred the way wires look, but keeping the WW's trued and balanced has been "elusive" for me at best Michael Godley 65TR4A ___________________ "The charm of fishing is it is the pursuit of what is elusive, but attainable,a perpetual series of occasions for hope." ************************** This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Oct 13 20:15:38 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 19:15:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] brooklands aero screens Message-ID: <964307.69444.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I also love the look of the brookland screens but see they can be dangerous too. my main question is how they're mounted. can the two windshields be easily switched? do the mounts for the brooklands say attached while the stock windshield is on? just wondering. might be nice to mount the brooklands for a show.........or drives around town. thanks gary n. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Oct 13 20:22:30 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 19:22:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] undercoat Message-ID: <261968.24423.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I've found the purple discs with angle grinder to be awesome. especially on the paint side of a fender. inside the fender i'm using the flat twisted steel brush with angle grinder to take the majority of crud off and then go over with the purple disc to get down closer to raw metal. saves some money by not going through so many purple discs. however i'm going to still be ending up with pitted areas that still feel very very solid. areas that look like liver spots............to get to those with sandblasting I'm afraid would result in warping. I plan on simply putting POR-15 to the test on entire inner fender. Just wondering what others are doing. I do have a pressure sandblaster which i'll use for lips and inside edges/corners. just wondering gary n. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Oct 13 20:31:37 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 19:31:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-6 brake master cylinders....... Message-ID: <332494.56502.qm@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> has anyone had problems with tr-6 brake master cylinders lately? I think mines roadster factory (no serious complaints i'm still a happy customer). anyway after changing oil i notice brake fluid leak/drip on the frame, wiped my hand under the booster and came away with soft paint and handful of fluid on my hand. grrrr I installed a new one within the past year and can't figure it out. Did have a very hard time flushing after installation which confused me..........just very hard to flush and my brakes have been weaker than i think they should be. I'm wondering if the line is partially plugged and the pressure has come back to prematurely wear out the master gaskets. It'll be a fall/winter tear down project. just wondering gary n. From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 13 20:41:59 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 22:41:59 EDT Subject: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros Message-ID: In a message dated 10/13/2009 9:37:51 PM Central Daylight Time, fishplate at charter.net writes: > >A guy in our local club has a beautiful BRG TR3A and had Brooklands > >screens. He'd show up at events with his hair perfectly straight > >back. One day he > >said a rock whistled past his ear while driving on the highway. The > regular > > windshield went right back on. He said he could just imagine that rock > >imbedded in his forehead. > > That's what the goggles and leather flying helmet are for! > But what about that big grin on your face that always accompanies driving a TR3? Dave From wbeech at flash.net Tue Oct 13 21:38:00 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 21:38:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] brooklands aero screens In-Reply-To: <964307.69444.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <964307.69444.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I also love the look of the brookland screens but see they can be dangerous too. my main question is how they're mounted. can the two windshields be easily switched? do the mounts for the brooklands say attached while the stock windshield is on? just wondering. Gary Gary, TR3s up to around TS-32000 or 34000 have the factory bolts to mount the screens, after removal of the full windscreen as they cannot co-exist, on the front scuttle. Windscreens are easily removed but would advise enlisting a helper if you value your paintwork. I saw somewhere recently a guy who was selling a re-pro screen that looked very nice for around $450ea. I imagine there is a kit to mount them on later cars. '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From spitlist at cox.net Tue Oct 13 21:40:40 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 20:40:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <58D91398D1F74BEAA1F4EE1715CF0485@joepentiumnew> Dave, It will be a big grin with a space in the middle if one of those rocks hits a tooth! :) -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 7:42 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros But what about that big grin on your face that always accompanies driving a TR3? Dave From ambritts at bellsouth.net Wed Oct 14 03:28:45 2009 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 05:28:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] undercoat References: <261968.24423.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <015701ca4cb0$bca33c90$6401a8c0@STATION6> Did the same with POR15. No need to sandblast to get the final little shiny rust spots out. POR15 works better if there is no flakey rust, but rust is good with POR15. 3-4 years later just fine. POR15 is heavy enough to fill the pitted area. If you are going for concours then it's not the answer. I have a spot sandblaster (media) that recovers the media and reclaims for reuse. Gets the small spots without having to turn on big bertha and make a mess. They are available at Harbour Freight. I got mine at Eastwood at a car show where they were a vendor. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Nafziger" To: Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 10:22 PM Subject: [TR] undercoat > I've found the purple discs with angle grinder to be awesome. especially > on > the paint side of a fender. inside the fender i'm using the flat twisted > steel brush with angle grinder to take the majority of crud off and then > go > over with the purple disc to get down closer to raw metal. saves some > money by not going through so many purple discs. > > however i'm going to still > be ending up with pitted areas that still feel very very solid. areas > that > look like liver spots............to get to those with sandblasting I'm > afraid > would result in warping. I plan on simply putting POR-15 to the test on > entire inner fender. Just wondering what others are doing. I do have a > pressure sandblaster which i'll use for lips and inside edges/corners. > > just > wondering > > gary n. > _______________________________________________ From ambritts at bellsouth.net Wed Oct 14 03:39:59 2009 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 05:39:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] undercoat removal References: <000301ca4c7f$06161af0$124250d0$@ca> Message-ID: <016c01ca4cb2$4cbbdbb0$6401a8c0@STATION6> I agree. I modified the hole in the purple disks and used the angle grinder bolt/washer with a larger washer that I made in addition to the grinder bolt/washer. Works great. The additional washer only needs to be a little bigger. The thickness of a body panel works. Any sheet stock will work. Just tin snip it out and hammer the edges down. The small angle grinder adds 1000% more power than my drill. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Colin Thom" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 11:32 PM Subject: [6pack] undercoat removal > The 3M stripping wheels are the best but you pay for the privilege. And, > don't forget to buy the mandrel you'll need to fit in your drill chuck. If > you've already got an angle grinder then Vance's idea is a good one but if > you don't have the grinder and don't particularly feel like owning one, > then > the 3M wheels will make you smile..and they're faster than a twisted wire > brush, anyway. Colin Thom '75 > _______________________________________________ From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 14 06:06:53 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 08:06:53 EDT Subject: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros Message-ID: In a message dated 10/13/2009 10:40:36 PM Central Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > It will be a big grin with a space in the middle if one of those rocks > hits > a tooth! :) But worth it! Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 14 06:09:26 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 08:09:26 EDT Subject: [TR] brooklands aero screens Message-ID: In a message dated 10/13/2009 11:09:32 PM Central Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: > TR3s up to around TS-32000 or 34000 have the factory bolts to mount the > screens, after removal of the full windscreen as they cannot co-exist, on > the front scuttle. Windscreens are easily removed but would advise > enlisting a helper if you value your paintwork. > > I saw somewhere recently a guy who was selling a re-pro screen that looked > very nice for around $450ea. I imagine there is a kit to mount them on > later cars. > A friend here in St. Louis has a pair of aftermarket screens (I don't know the source) and although they look real they don't quite fit the mounts. So beware and be prepared to improvise. Dave From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed Oct 14 06:50:52 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 07:50:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr- brrookland aeros In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > But what about that big grin on your face that always accompanies driving a > TR3? > > Dave That is what toothpicks are for. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From amfoto1 at aol.com Wed Oct 14 09:26:40 2009 From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 11:26:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 488 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC1AF9DC94C3FD-197C-2F0D@webmail-m032.sysops.aol.com> Hi Tom, What you are describing is a pinstriping tool. You can fit it with different width paint wheels to make different width pinstripes. I think some can be fitted with multiple wheels to apply two or more parallel lines at the same time, too. Eastwoodco.com sells them, for one. I'm not sure what the widest wheels are, if they are large enough to use for the tire like you suggest. Of course you could make a couple passes to make a wider stripe. The biggest problem might be finding paint that will stay on the rubber tire and also work well in the pinstriper. I really don't know, I haven't tried it. Cheers! p.s. I have no idea why my replies to this list all seem to have those extra question marks in them. I'm replying via aol's online email. I ain't no 'pooter tech. Alan Myers San Jose, California amfoto1 at aol.com Triumphfest autocross & more photos... www.amfoto1.printroom.com '62 TR4 CT17602L www.triumphowners.com/640 -----Original Message----- ----------------------------- essage: 6 ate: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 14:30:11 +0000 rom: tom white ubject: [TR] Red line tires! o: , , essage-ID: ontent-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I was watching a hot rod show last week and they demonstrated a painting tool hat has been around for many years. It is a small metal wheel mounted in a ody that dispenses paint. I have no idea what it's proper name is. Anyway you fill it with paint and then roll the wheel across the surface of hat you want painted and it makes a line. In the demonstration they painted red line around the inside lip of a wheel. I imagine you could use it to ake red lines on tires too. Best regards, om ----------------------------- = From pethier at comcast.net Wed Oct 14 10:17:04 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 16:17:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Transproter advice In-Reply-To: <489383434.3956761255536571000.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1335282578.3960741255537024571.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Sorry that my trailer is here in Saint Paul and out of your way to get the car home. I assume you mean Limon CO, on I-70 east out of Denver. Lucky for us we were ahead of you. We went the other way, NE out of Lafayette on I-76, up to I-80 and across Nebraska. It was raining and near-freezing when we left Layfayette and the Denver area Thursday morning. Cold and wet that night and the next morning at the Gothenberg Nebraska campground. On Saturday morning we woke up to snow at the Des Moines West KOA campground in Adel Iowa. Roads thankfully not icy. The band of snow ran right along I80 from Grand Island Nebraska nearly to Illinois. By the time we got to Ames Iowa we were north of it and the roads were dry. We made it home to Saint Paul before dark. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > Folks, an unfortunate thing happened on the way back from SLO. Last > Saturday morning found us in Lymon, CO. Unfortunately the cold front > found us as > well. And I found some black ice and put the car into a guard rail. > The > car now rests quietly 646 miles from home and one option of getting it > back is > to use a transporter service. The car still runs and I think it is > drivable for short distances. Heck, I could probably drive it home > but the wife > won't let me. > Any recommendations of transporter services? From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Wed Oct 14 11:58:26 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 10:58:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] brooklands aero screens In-Reply-To: <964307.69444.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <964307.69444.qm@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0910141058n39c567c1w556c67f53b9e0658@mail.gmail.com> On 10/13/09, Gary Nafziger wrote: > my main question is how they're mounted. can the two windshields be > easily switched? do the mounts for the brooklands say attached while the > stock windshield is on? Yes. That is, provided you take care how far forward you install the mounts for the usual aftermarket 'Aeroscreen' you do not need to remove the mounting posts to use the full windscreen. Very easy to switch between the 2. I often do so w/o an assistant but I do have a couple of pieces of cereal box cardboard that I tape to the body just forward of the mounting plinths in case the windscreen gets cocked a bit and the stantion trys to touch the paintwork. Also helps to pull a rubber band over the 2 dzus on each stantion to hold them back out of the way until the thing is in place. Never had a rock come at me though I always wear safety glasses whenever I am driving with the aeroscreen. From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 14 11:59:13 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 13:59:13 EDT Subject: [TR] Transproter advice Message-ID: In a message dated 10/14/2009 11:17:08 AM Central Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > Lucky for us we were ahead of you. We went the other way, NE out of > Lafayette on I-76, up to I-80 and across Nebraska. It was raining and > near-freezing when we left Layfayette and the Denver area Thursday morning. Cold > and wet that night and the next morning at the Gothenberg Nebraska > campground. > > On Saturday morning we woke up to snow at the Des Moines West KOA > campground in Adel Iowa. Roads thankfully not icy. The band of snow ran right > along I80 from Grand Island Nebraska nearly to Illinois. By the time we got to > Ames Iowa we were north of it and the roads were dry. We made it home to > Saint Paul before dark. Saturday morning they were talking about North Platte (I think) getting 15 inches. If we had 15 inches we would have stayed put and waited it out. But all we got was a dusting. Further east all they got was freezing rain which is what done me in. Glad you made it OK. Weather on the Great Plains is very chancy indeed. Dave From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Oct 14 18:13:40 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 20:13:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] For Sale: NOS Lucas parts (Mostly TR3) Message-ID: Several people have asked for my list of NOS Lucas parts that I have. Here is a partial listing, I still have one more box to dig through so a few more things yet to come. Just about all of these parts are still in the original Lucas packaging All parts listed below are NOS unless otherwise noted: 573819 Single center tail light lens (only lens) as used on the TR3. 574635 tail light lens (only lens) as used on TR3A & TR3B. (I have two of these) L549 (53330) light base assembly for 574635 lens listed above 31126 3 position (side / head switch) (I have one NOS and one good used one) 31444F (same action of switch as above but screw connectors do not hang down they go up beside the body) 31253 momentary push button switch (TR3 starter switch) (I have one NOS and one used) 576109 red beehive lens as used on TR3s and TR4s (I have two of these) 30608 ignition switch body (without the key tumbler) (supposed to be for later TR3s with the spade connectors) 291806 starter gear (supposed to be TR3) 270038 bushing (starter?) 255491 bushing (starter?) 491644 sundries kit (starter?) L494 reversing light L494 reversing light (this one is used and is very lightly pitted but still looks pretty good) 31419A push pull switch panel light switch (I have two NOS and two used) 78358 heater rheostat switch with knob Thanks, Brad From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Oct 14 18:35:26 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 20:35:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] For Sale: NOS Lucas parts (Mostly TR3) Message-ID: <4AD66E4E.1000701@141.com> Several people have asked for my list of NOS Lucas parts that I have. Here is a partial listing, I still have one more box to dig through so a few more things yet to come. Just about all of these parts are still in the original Lucas packaging All parts listed below are NOS unless otherwise noted: 573819 Single center tail light lens (only lens) as used on the TR3. 574635 tail light lens (only lens) as used on TR3A & TR3B. (I have two of these) L549 (53330) light base assembly for 574635 lens listed above 31126 3 position (side / head switch) (I have one NOS and one good used one) 31444F (same action of switch as above but screw connectors do not hang down they go up beside the body) 31253 momentary push button switch (TR3 starter switch) (I have one NOS and one used) 576109 red beehive lens as used on TR3s and TR4s (I have two of these) 30608 ignition switch body (without the key tumbler) (supposed to be for later TR3s with the spade connectors) 291806 starter gear (supposed to be TR3) 270038 bushing (starter?) 255491 bushing (starter?) 491644 sundries kit (starter?) L494 reversing light L494 reversing light (this one is used and is very lightly pitted but still looks pretty good) 31419A push pull switch panel light switch (I have two NOS and two used) 78358 heater rheostat switch with knob Thanks, Brad From pcaffrey at ymail.com Wed Oct 14 18:37:44 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 17:37:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct Message-ID: <429060.88324.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> List, I just purchased and received a TR4A shroud/duct for the radiator, used of course. The duct is in fairly good shape for something that's been around for over 40 years. There is noticeable rust on the rivets, and it's dirty with black soot-like material that comes off on the hands while handling. How do I clean this duct to prepare it for painting? I googled "cleaning cardboard" and found a link for cleaning cardboard game board boxes. The suggestion was to immerse the box in a tub of lukewarm water and then let dry, thoroughly. I don't think I want to do this with the duct. Thanks for any suggestions, Pat TR4A '67 From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Oct 14 19:42:04 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 20:42:04 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct Message-ID: <1881170340.311376.1255570924468.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net> I had an original shroud on my 72 TR6. I would not advising dipping it. I wiped it with a damp rag, and in your case I would sand the rivets with fine sand paper, and then I sprayed the whole thing with black, flat spray paint. It turned out great. Craig 72 TR6 On Oct 14, 2009, P Caffrey wrote: List, I just purchased and received a TR4A shroud/duct for the radiator, used of course. The duct is in fairly good shape for something that's been around for over 40 years. There is noticeable rust on the rivets, and it's dirty with black soot-like material that comes off on the hands while handling. How do I clean this duct to prepare it for painting? I googled "cleaning cardboard" and found a link for cleaning cardboard game board boxes. The suggestion was to immerse the box in a tub of lukewarm water and then let dry, thoroughly. I don't think I want to do this with the duct. Thanks for any suggestions, Pat TR4A '67 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From Catpusher at aol.com Wed Oct 14 19:50:07 2009 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:50:07 EDT Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: brooklands aero screens Message-ID: The factory optional "aero windscreen" # 700896, had laminated automotive safety glass; I had a few replacements due to projectiles on race tracks. I sit low in the car, and also used helmets. My car is early enough to have the factory fitting set screws, and it would fit behind the regular windscreen. This is a terrible idea in the rain, as the aeroscreen blocks the demister (it came with a rubber sealing strip across the bottom) and there is no hand room to wipe between the two inner surfaces. The aero windscreen improves the MPG and MPH a sizable amount, but do use a helmet on road or track. Hardy Subject: Re: [TR] brooklands aero screens To: "'Gary Nafziger'" , Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I also love the look of the brookland screens but see they can be dangerous too. my main question is how they're mounted. can the two windshields be easily switched? do the mounts for the brooklands say attached while the stock windshield is on? just wondering. Gary From jmwagner at greenheart.com Wed Oct 14 22:30:43 2009 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:30:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Early TR2 Rear Tail Lights Wanted Message-ID: <4AD6A573.1020206@greenheart.com> Hello all... I'm after yet a pair of the tail lights for my early TR2. Here is what they look like: http://www.vtr.org/TR2/NewPhotos/tt2reflector.jpg The lens "Lucas 471" and "Made in England" embossed in the glass. Notice that is has a rectangular shape. These were found on the early TR2s through TS1387. After this, they changed to a round type lens. I really hope I can find an original pair, not reproductions or lens missing the "Lucas 471" lettering, etc. Some may recall, I have an early, unmolested, unrestored TR2. It's my goal to basically keep it as is, but make it safe to drive, halt corrosion, and to keep it a good example of an original car, except for period accessories. Not to complicate matters, but as a comparison, here is the later TR2 lens assembly (that I do not need...) http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1168/532815396_7eca578c32.jpg?v=0 It appears that the lens is a bit more common than the rest of the assembly. While the lens was used on various cars of the period, the bezel may have been unique to the TR2. --Justin Wagner P.S. I still have not found an early TR2 jack. For more info on TR2s... visit Bill Lynn's article on The VTR web site: http://www.vtr.org/TR2/terrible_2s.shtml From gprtech at frontiernet.net Thu Oct 15 02:50:58 2009 From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 04:50:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Early TR2 Rear Tail Lights Wanted In-Reply-To: <4AD6A573.1020206@greenheart.com> References: <4AD6A573.1020206@greenheart.com> Message-ID: <4AD6E272.1080608@frontiernet.net> Have you checked to see what other vehicles of the period might use that lens? The bezel may be unique to the TR2, but the lens was a standard Lucas product, and probably used on other vehicles. George Richardson Justin Wagner wrote: > Hello all... I'm after yet a pair of the tail lights for my early TR2. > > Here is what they look like: > > http://www.vtr.org/TR2/NewPhotos/tt2reflector.jpg > > The lens "Lucas 471" and "Made in England" embossed in the glass. > Notice that is has a rectangular shape. > > These were found on the early TR2s through TS1387. After this, they > changed to a round type lens. > > I really hope I can find an original pair, not reproductions or lens > missing the "Lucas 471" lettering, etc. > > Some may recall, I have an early, unmolested, unrestored TR2. It's my > goal to basically keep it as is, but make it safe to drive, halt > corrosion, and to keep it a good example of an original car, except for > period accessories. > > Not to complicate matters, but as a comparison, here is the later TR2 > lens assembly (that I do not need...) > > http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1168/532815396_7eca578c32.jpg?v=0 > > It appears that the lens is a bit more common than the rest of the > assembly. While the lens was used on various cars of the period, the > bezel may have been unique to the TR2. > > --Justin Wagner > > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4508 (20091014) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From tr4zest at gmail.com Thu Oct 15 05:17:44 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 07:17:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Early TR2 Rear Tail Lights Wanted In-Reply-To: <4AD6E272.1080608@frontiernet.net> References: <4AD6A573.1020206@greenheart.com> <4AD6E272.1080608@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: Justin, Try here: http://www.taillightking.com/foreign-lucas_english.htm He lists one but the picture is different. Brian On Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 4:50 AM, George Richardson wrote: > Have you checked to see what other vehicles of the period might use that > lens? The bezel may be unique to the TR2, but the lens was a standard Lucas > product, and probably used on other vehicles. > > George Richardson > > > > Justin Wagner wrote: > >> Hello all... I'm after yet a pair of the tail lights for my early TR2. >> Here is what they look like: >> >> http://www.vtr.org/TR2/NewPhotos/tt2reflector.jpg >> >> The lens "Lucas 471" and "Made in England" embossed in the glass. Notice >> that is has a rectangular shape. >> >> These were found on the early TR2s through TS1387. After this, they >> changed to a round type lens. >> >> I really hope I can find an original pair, not reproductions or lens >> missing the "Lucas 471" lettering, etc. >> >> Some may recall, I have an early, unmolested, unrestored TR2. It's my >> goal to basically keep it as is, but make it safe to drive, halt corrosion, >> and to keep it a good example of an original car, except for period >> accessories. >> Not to complicate matters, but as a comparison, here is the later TR2 lens >> assembly (that I do not need...) >> >> http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1168/532815396_7eca578c32.jpg?v=0 >> >> It appears that the lens is a bit more common than the rest of the >> assembly. While the lens was used on various cars of the period, the bezel >> may have been unique to the TR2. >> >> --Justin Wagner >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature > database 4508 (20091014) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr4zest at gmail.com Thu Oct 15 05:27:11 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 07:27:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Early TR2 Rear Tail Lights Wanted In-Reply-To: <4AD6E272.1080608@frontiernet.net> References: <4AD6A573.1020206@greenheart.com> <4AD6E272.1080608@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: Oh, and this may be the bezel: http://www.vintagesupplies.com/part.phtml?PartID=2174 however, not original. And here are a pair of lenses on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/lucas-471-rear-light-lenses-from-Austin-Morris-Triumph_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2556c25c18QQitemZ160369368088QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Auction # 160369368088 On Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 4:50 AM, George Richardson wrote: > Have you checked to see what other vehicles of the period might use that > lens? The bezel may be unique to the TR2, but the lens was a standard Lucas > product, and probably used on other vehicles. > > George Richardson > > > > Justin Wagner wrote: > >> Hello all... I'm after yet a pair of the tail lights for my early TR2. >> Here is what they look like: >> >> http://www.vtr.org/TR2/NewPhotos/tt2reflector.jpg >> >> The lens "Lucas 471" and "Made in England" embossed in the glass. Notice >> that is has a rectangular shape. >> >> These were found on the early TR2s through TS1387. After this, they >> changed to a round type lens. >> >> I really hope I can find an original pair, not reproductions or lens >> missing the "Lucas 471" lettering, etc. >> >> Some may recall, I have an early, unmolested, unrestored TR2. It's my >> goal to basically keep it as is, but make it safe to drive, halt corrosion, >> and to keep it a good example of an original car, except for period >> accessories. >> Not to complicate matters, but as a comparison, here is the later TR2 lens >> assembly (that I do not need...) >> >> http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1168/532815396_7eca578c32.jpg?v=0 >> >> It appears that the lens is a bit more common than the rest of the >> assembly. While the lens was used on various cars of the period, the bezel >> may have been unique to the TR2. >> >> --Justin Wagner >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature > database 4508 (20091014) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From supertr6 at earthlink.net Thu Oct 15 05:35:40 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 07:35:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <429060.88324.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <429060.88324.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4AD7090C.9070809@earthlink.net> The ducts were painted? I thought (like the TR6) they would be left natural. Joe P Caffrey wrote: > List, > I just purchased and received a TR4A shroud/duct for the radiator, used > of course. The duct is in fairly good shape for something that's been around > for over 40 years. There is noticeable rust on the rivets, and it's dirty > with black soot-like material that comes off on the hands while handling. How > do I clean this duct to prepare it for painting? I googled "cleaning > cardboard" and found a link for cleaning cardboard game board boxes. The > suggestion was to immerse the box in a tub of lukewarm water and then let dry, > thoroughly. I don't think I want to do this with the duct. > Thanks for any > suggestions, > Pat > TR4A '67 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 15 07:13:22 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 08:13:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Early TR2 Rear Tail Lights Wanted References: <4AD6A573.1020206@greenheart.com><4AD6E272.1080608@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: that is the same as the early mgtd (not 53) and several morris vehicles used them. possibly early mga? healey? > >> Have you checked to see what other vehicles of the period might use that >> lens? The bezel may be unique to the TR2, but the lens was a standard >> Lucas >> product, and probably used on other vehicles. >> >> George Richardson From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Oct 15 07:39:46 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 09:39:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Early TR2 Rear Tail Lights Wanted In-Reply-To: References: <4AD6A573.1020206@greenheart.com><4AD6E272.1080608@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <8CC1BB41837A9C1-188C-12A05@webmail-d072.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Brian Jones Oh, and this may be the bezel: http://www.vintagesupplies.com/part.phtml?PartID=2174 however, not original. And here are a pair of lenses on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/lucas-471-rear-light-lenses-from-Austin-Morris -Triumph_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2556c25c18QQitemZ160369368088QQptZMotorsQ 5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Auction # 160369368088 ==AM== Wrong bezel, unfortunately; I'm pretty sure that the one used on the early TR2 is unique to that car. There was someone in the Netherlands, I think, who was reproducing them. (Lou Metelko, where are you? Help us out here!) The lenses are correct, although I've never been totally clear on whether the early TR2 used the glass or plastic versions. (Oh, and contrary to the statement in the auction listing, these were not used on Spitfires!) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From supertr6 at earthlink.net Thu Oct 15 08:46:11 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 10:46:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hot Wheels Message-ID: <4AD735B3.6080807@earthlink.net> Sorry if this is a repeat but I was in Target today and noticed Hot Wheels just produced a TR6 race car in BRG. I bought the last three! :) Joe 72 TR6 in 1/1 scale 70ish TR6 in 1/64 scale From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Oct 15 10:34:46 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 12:34:46 EDT Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Conversion Brackets-new source-delete if you are not interested Message-ID: TR6 Owners Considering Miata Seat Conversion.......................... After discussions with List Members and Tony Drews: I think we have this sorted out......The late Uncle Jack's seat conversion kit will come to Iowa. We were producting the brackets for Uncle Jack, already, so this is a good fit. They are now processed, costed, and ready for production. The kit will contain Powder Coated Components, Hardware, Instructions and be packaged in a 4" x 4" x 20" carton. (Well done by Sean!) Advance Orders will be $60 including Shipping. Lead time will be about two weeks. Orders after that will have shipping $$$. Returns will be accepted. Contact is: alex3rail at mchsi.com This is Sean Alexander and he will be the source of the brackets. If there is a demand for TR3/TR4 conversions, he will look at those as a possible kit. I have no financial interest in this, but will help facilitate, as best that I can. Joe Alexander Thanks! From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 15 11:11:14 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 17:11:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures In-Reply-To: <101140292.2842341255319974206.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <470746944.4468291255626674105.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> OK, I'm not done fiddling, editing, and captioning, but I never will be, so I went public last night. The whole trip, including cars, people and scenery, shot with three different cameras: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157622574405912/ To skip right to the autocross pictures, start with http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/3973193095/in/set-72157622574405912/ Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- pethier at comcast.net wrote: > From: pethier at comcast.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:59:34 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures > > I will be getting my pix available "real soon now". > > We got home last night from our 4-week trip. I'm not Blake or > Brian... > > Dave, I think you may be the only person to shoot TR44SUE after I > washed it (well OK, it was in the background. I was thinking of not > washing it through the whole convention, but when we got around to > looking at it mid-day Saturday we saw that it had been attacked by a > tree and a flock of birds! I was probably the last person at the > convention to use the car wash area. The judging for the Funcours was > probably over by then. We went back to the Madonna Inn (to shoot > Bear, who had not made it to dinner Friday night) and to the grocery > store. Soon after, Owen and I put it in the trailer. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Oct 15 11:13:09 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 10:13:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <4AD7090C.9070809@earthlink.net> References: <429060.88324.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <4AD7090C.9070809@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0910151013k7a512ed3j35245bc566eba6f2@mail.gmail.com> On 10/15/09, Joe Burlein wrote: > The ducts were painted? I thought (like the TR6) they would be left > natural. > The TR4 duct would have been natural -- but if an old & soiled one is used, perhaps painting to either emulate the original grey or else some other pleasing color would improve the appearance. Painting also might help preserve the fibreboard if the material is deteriorating. As I noted in a prior post, I found the repro from Moss to be a very nice duplication of the original, not merely a functional replacement. Geo From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Thu Oct 15 11:36:21 2009 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 10:36:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Rear Axle Seals and Axles Message-ID: Hi All - At the Triumphest/VTR I developed a leak from my left rear axle seal. I noticed it when thick oil started accumulating in the curvature of my wheel. I know that I need to replace the seals. As I understand from past threads, it is a fairly simple process, and I don't need to remove the backing plate. If I am wrong, please let me know. My questions: 1. Since I will have the axles pulled, is there anything else I should do or look for while they are apart? Replace bearings, etc? As far as I know, these are the original axles, backing plates, brakes, etc. 2. I have been told not to autocross (or otherwise race)my TR2 because it has the original "2 bolt" axles. What is the collective wisdom of the list? Should I try to replace the axles with "4 bolt" axles? If so, are they readily available? It seems like new ones are rather pricey. How about used axles? Anything I should look for? Thanks for all of your help. David Gunn 1954 TR2 (now coupe) TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 15 11:41:03 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 17:41:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Transproter advice In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1505153644.4482861255628463478.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I forgot to mention that you should check out the email list autotransport at yahoogroups.com You may find someone with and empty trailer going your way. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > To: tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu, triumphs at autox.team.net, triumphs at sltoa.org > Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 2:22:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] Transproter advice > > Folks, an unfortunate thing happened on the way back from SLO. Last > Saturday morning found us in Lymon, CO. Unfortunately the cold front > found us as > well. And I found some black ice and put the car into a guard rail. > The > car now rests quietly 646 miles from home and one option of getting it > back is > to use a transporter service. The car still runs and I think it is > drivable for short distances. Heck, I could probably drive it home > but the wife > won't let me. > > Any recommendations of transporter services? From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 15 12:32:11 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:32:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] My TR3 Caused an Accident Today?! In-Reply-To: <1257508188.4506491255631230181.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <5271380.4508961255631531572.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Brian Jones" wrote: > My wife hates driving in my TR4. It is something I have to enjoy > 'alone'. Why does she hate it? > "Its such an attention-grabbing car. I don't like people staring at > me." she > tells me. > > "Honey, they are looking at the car, not you. They even look at the > car when > I'm in it." > > She still wont get in it. Ah well. > > Brian My problems are a bit different. Sue loves to ride in "her" TR4. Loves to wave at all the gawkers. Won't drive it. Steering effort at low speed is all it takes to keep her away. She has shoulder and arm problems from fibromyalgia. Has no problem with the manual transmission. Hates automatics. The Seven is the car she won't even ride in. The fibromyalgia makes it too difficult to enter and especially exit this minimalist car. The TR4 attracts a lot of attention, but the Seven positively stupifies people. If they know these cars, it looks exactly like a mid-sixties Lotus. If they don't know these cars, it's a fantastically-styled toy car in yellow. Either way, they stop in their tracks and stare. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 15 12:32:38 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 13:32:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct References: <429060.88324.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><4AD7090C.9070809@earthlink.net> <7bb181af0910151013k7a512ed3j35245bc566eba6f2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <7775A798564E4D779EEADE2C77F00A79@ranteer.local> you can glue cardboard to the inside of it to stiffen it, and paint it; I used a glossy black. i did that and it turned out well. this was on a TR6, so I added a set of TR6 white fender letters to it. http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN0964.JPG From lee at automate-it.com Thu Oct 15 13:15:46 2009 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 14:15:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Miata seats for TR6 - have the brackets, need the seats In-Reply-To: <470746944.4468291255626674105.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mai l.comcast.net> References: <470746944.4468291255626674105.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4888.192.246.38.159.1255634146.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> I have had the "uncle jack" brackets for some time now, and keep looking for Miata seats to finish the conversion. But no luck so far! Any hints about finding good seats? I looked at Bob Danielson's very nice page on overhauling a set of seats - I'd be happier if I found seats that were "good enough" to not require such extensive repair. I was betting that here in the Houston area I would be able to find good seats; we're pretty flush with junk yards in every direction. But so far (and I haven't really gone all out on my search) no luck. Also - I recall that the '90-'97 seats were the correct ones to fit; is my understanding correct? many thanks, Lee From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 15 14:26:14 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 13:26:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Rear Axle Seals and Axles In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0B04610D2364440E89E19EECD496BDEB@jdnet.deere.com> > As I understand > from past threads, it is a fairly simple process, Perhaps it is, for the early axles. But for a later axle, the hubs mount to the shaft with a locking taper, and require a special puller to remove them without ruining the hubs (which is required to change the seal). > Replace bearings, etc? Again for a later axle, I would replace the bearings as a matter of course. Too many times, a leaking seal is the first sign of bearing failure. But at the very least, inspect them carefully for any sign of damage, wear or roughness. Even a matte appearance of the race is reason to replace them, IMO. Note that there are actually two seals that have to be leaking for oil to come out; the wheel bearing is supposed to run in grease rather than oil. > 2. I have been told not to autocross (or otherwise race)my > TR2 because it has the original "2 bolt" axles. I think you mean "4 bolt" here, the later axles were a "3/4 floating" design that used 6 bolts to hold the bearing housing to the main housing instead of the 4 bolts found on the earlier "1/2 floating" axles. > Should I try to replace the axles with "4 bolt" axles? Guess it depends on how hard, and how often, you plan to drive the car. The early axle does appear to be a weak spot; and even the later, stronger axle is apparently too weak for serious racing. Right, Tony? > If so, are they readily available? Shouldn't be hard to find one for a reasonable price. Let me know if you can't find one closer to home, I've got several. -- Randall (near LA, CA) From moira.secrest at verizon.net Thu Oct 15 14:48:33 2009 From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:48:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mountney Horn Push Message-ID: <4261EA3D7DCD491DA95F8597182DF36E@4NutballsPC> Wow, this is an award winning design. I know others have encountered this in retrofitting a Mountney steering wheel. I've got the electrics working (no small task there either) but I'm a little stumped as to how to get the whole assembly to stay inside the steering hub. It should be a press fit but it's not, the plastic body of the horn push just flops around inside the hub. This is on a GT6-3 if it matters. I can vaguely make it stay in the hub by wedging in various materials but haven't found something I particularly like yet. Ideas? -- Martin Secrest Arlington, VA 73 GT6, 72 TR6 From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Oct 15 16:04:33 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 22:04:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <1881170340.311376.1255570924468.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <1221882355.5639251255644273918.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >I had an original shroud on my 72 TR6. B I would not advising dipping it. B I wiped it with a damp rag, and in your case I would sand the >rivets with fine sand paper, and then I sprayed the whole thing with black, flat spray paint. When I restored TR3A TS 58667, I bought a new cardboard radiator duct.B I did spray it with 3 M rubberized wheel well paint to protect it, since List experience indicated these deteriorate rapidly. It stillB deteriorated rapidly.B Ran the car this season without a duct with noB problem, but want to re-install a duct.B Don't want to repeat the same experience, so am looing for alternatives.B Any suggestions out there? Terry Smith New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 15 17:37:16 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:37:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <1221882355.5639251255644273918.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1881170340.311376.1255570924468.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net> <1221882355.5639251255644273918.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <117525FE2A3F41D788F3A2729A2A758A@jdnet.deere.com> > Ran the car this season without a duct with noB problem, but > want to re-install a duct.B Don't want to repeat the same > experience, so am looing for alternatives.B I painted mine with several coats of ordinary rattle-can enamel and it was still doing it's job some 20 years later. Granted it doesn't rain much around here, but it definitely got wet more than a few times. Didn't transfer it to the project TR3, but I could have, after straightening out the creases added by the wreck. -- Randall From pboldtrix at juno.com Thu Oct 15 17:46:18 2009 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 23:46:18 GMT Subject: [TR] Mountney Horn Push Message-ID: <20091015.194618.18316.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> This is when I usually resort to electricians tape.....once around, check the fit; twice around check the fit,; three times around, etc,,,,,,Phil Bacon, 72 TR6 From: "M. Secrest" Wow, this is an award winning design. I know others have encountered this in retrofitting a Mountney steering wheel. I've got the electrics working (no small task there either) but I'm a little stumped as to how to get the whole assembly to stay inside the steering hub. It should be a press fit but it's not, the plastic body of the horn push just flops around inside the hub. This is on a GT6-3 if it matters. I can vaguely make it stay in the hub by wedging in various materials but haven't found something I particularly like yet. Ideas? -- Martin Secrest ____________________________________________________________ Liberty University Online Enroll in an online degree program from Liberty University. Free info! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=hCLvu0DZVT0EvNx20XwXtgAAJz1zz45 8BJiLsnEJJ59KLgd5AAQAAAAFAAAAANEiGz4AAAMlAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABSGlwAAAAA= From Loumetelko at aol.com Thu Oct 15 18:25:55 2009 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:25:55 EDT Subject: [TR] Early TR2 Rear Tail Lights Wanted Message-ID: As Justin stated, the first 1300 or so TR2s had a unique rear tail light. Considering that TS 1300 was built about late April of 1954 trying to find a NOS or even used assembly will be harder than discovering a bag full of "baby" Tenax snaps. The glass lens is still available since it was also used on the MG TD but that is where the similarity ends for the bezel and the gasket are unique to those very early 2s. There are only two sources in the world for those two pieces - Tom Householder in Ohio and Hans Kooy in the Netherlands (I bought mine from Tom). If you are adamant, Justin, that the bezel must have patina, then I say good luck and hope you have more patience that I. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ==AM== Wrong bezel, unfortunately; I'm pretty sure that the one used on the early TR2 is unique to that car. There was someone in the Netherlands, I think, who was reproducing them. (Lou Metelko, where are you? Help us out here!) The lenses are correct, although I've never been totally clear on whether the early TR2 used the glass or plastic versions. (Oh, and contrary to the statement in the auction listing, these were not used on Spitfires!) --Andy Mace From carlsereda at aol.com Thu Oct 15 18:33:05 2009 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 17:33:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR radiator shroud Message-ID: Pat, I think the TR radiator shrouds were made when wet. You could soak your's in a tub, carefully clean with soft bristle brush - but most importantly pre-figure a drying jig (so it dries and hardens in proper form) BEFORE the big soak. But I think I might simply sponge it off with mild soap and water, let it dry square, or install it, tweak it's form, and let it dry perfectly fitted in place. Then when dry, remove, paint it, waterproof it, or whatever.. Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since 74 > I just purchased and received a TR4A shroud/duct for the radiator, > used > of course. The duct is in fairly good shape for something that's been > around > for over 40 years. There is noticeable rust on the rivets, and it's > dirty > with black soot-like material that comes off on the hands while > handling. How > do I clean this duct to prepare it for painting? I googled "cleaning > cardboard" and found a link for cleaning cardboard game board boxes. > The > suggestion was to immerse the box in a tub of lukewarm water and then > let dry, > thoroughly. I don't think I want to do this with the duct. > Thanks for any > suggestions, > Pat > TR4A '67 From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Oct 15 18:52:13 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:52:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures In-Reply-To: <470746944.4468291255626674105.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <101140292.2842341255319974206.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Cool, thanks for sharing them. Who had the white #333 TR3 at the autox? I like the windshield set up. Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Oct 15 19:09:54 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 01:09:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <117525FE2A3F41D788F3A2729A2A758A@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <1902695322.5711121255655394731.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >> Ran the car this season without a duct with noB B problem, but > >want to re-install a duct.B B Don't want to repeat the same > >experience, so am looing for alternatives.B >I painted mine with several coats of ordinary rattle-can enamel and it was >still doing it's job some 20 years later. B Granted it doesn't rain much >around here, but it definitely got wet more than a few times. Yes, I painted mine with several coats of 3M also.B Here in New Hampshire, I get caught in torrential downpours (despite the weather channel). Hmm...for that matter, what does the Weather Channel and Meet the Nation have in common?B People lie with a straight face and sometimes the best of intentions.... Oh well.B Question, then.B Is there a paint that would render cardboard impervious to rain, or is there, as Fred mentioned, a stainless steel duct out there being manufactured by someone on the List??? Terry Smith, New Hampshire, where we believe everything we read, unless it's in a newspaper, in a book, on television, or otherwise in print. From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Thu Oct 15 19:22:23 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 21:22:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <429060.88324.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <429060.88324.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Pat: I just cleaned my '70 TR6 Duct with a wet rag. What I found best for painting is the bumper black spray paint. This remains flexible and will not crack. I did mine 8 years ago and it still looks great. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of P Caffrey Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 8:38 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct List, I just purchased and received a TR4A shroud/duct for the radiator, used of course. The duct is in fairly good shape for something that's been around for over 40 years. There is noticeable rust on the rivets, and it's dirty with black soot-like material that comes off on the hands while handling. How do I clean this duct to prepare it for painting? I googled "cleaning cardboard" and found a link for cleaning cardboard game board boxes. The suggestion was to immerse the box in a tub of lukewarm water and then let dry, thoroughly. I don't think I want to do this with the duct. Thanks for any suggestions, Pat TR4A '67 From pcaffrey at ymail.com Thu Oct 15 19:24:25 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:24:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct Message-ID: <87785.3109.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> >As I noted in a prior post, I found the repro from Moss to be a very >nice duplication of the original, not merely a functional replacement. Geo, I remember seeing a picture of yours and thinking it fits perfectly, then someone pointed out that you have a TR4, not 4A. I would have gladly gone with a TR4A duct reproduction through Moss or Victoria British, but that's on the car now, I believe, and it doesn't fit correctly. The duct was purchased from Triumphs Only and it is new, so I can only figure it's a stock reproduction. (See Link below.) I learned that the original radiator ducts for the TR4 and 4A were of a different size. If you look at both Moss and Victoria British, they use the same part # for both ducts. So the duct is a generic that kinda fits for a 4A but in a lousy way. Pat http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/TR%20Radiator%20Duct/ ________________________________ From: Geo Hahn To: TR List Sent: Thu, October 15, 2009 10:13:09 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct On 10/15/09, Joe Burlein wrote: > The ducts were painted? I thought (like the TR6) they would be left > natural. > The TR4 duct would have been natural -- but if an old & soiled one is used, perhaps painting to either emulate the original grey or else some other pleasing color would improve the appearance. Painting also might help preserve the fibreboard if the material is deteriorating. As I noted in a prior post, I found the repro from Moss to be a very nice duplication of the original, not merely a functional replacement. Geo _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From kvacek at ameritech.net Thu Oct 15 20:17:38 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 21:17:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct References: <1902695322.5711121255655394731.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <199C63E7649341CA80278026B30CE268@KARL> What about cleaning it really well, letting it dry thoroughly (maybe a few days in the furnace room ??), and then a good coat of something like Thompson's Water Seal before painting ?? Karl > Oh well.B Question, then.B Is there a paint that would render cardboard > impervious to rain, or is there, as Fred mentioned, a stainless steel duct > out > there being manufactured by someone on the List??? From banjonut at verizon.net Thu Oct 15 20:59:45 2009 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 19:59:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest VTR question Message-ID: <8634013AAE2C40DD884CC2BED51A6BB2@HAMPC> Who had the dark green TR3 with the TR4 curved intake manifold and "short body" SU's, at the Funcours on Saturday at Triumphest? I didn't notice the setup until I reviewed my pictures, and I wish I'd taken more detailed shots of the throttle linkage connection, etc. I hope to post some Funcours pix soon if I can find time to upload them to the web. Steve Ball Lompoc Ca '60 TR3A TS68164L email: banjonut at verizon.net From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Oct 15 21:00:49 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:00:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <199C63E7649341CA80278026B30CE268@KARL> References: <1902695322.5711121255655394731.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <199C63E7649341CA80278026B30CE268@KARL> Message-ID: <38CDCC81-5F65-49A7-AFF7-FF355AA817EF@cox.net> Karl, What is a furnace room??? John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ On 15 Oct, 2009, at 7:17 PM, Karl Vacek wrote: > What about cleaning it really well, letting it dry thoroughly (maybe > a few days in the furnace room ??), and then a good coat of > something like Thompson's Water Seal before painting ?? > > Karl > > >> Oh well.B Question, then.B Is there a paint that would render >> cardboard >> impervious to rain, or is there, as Fred mentioned, a stainless >> steel duct out >> there being manufactured by someone on the List??? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 15 21:25:39 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 03:25:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1806471845.4729871255663539774.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I never had a memory, and age has not improved it. The 333 TR3 was fantastic. It could have been fast, too, with better tires, but he is saving his 710 stickies for the track. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "marty sukey" wrote: > From: "marty sukey" > To: pethier at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 7:52:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: RE: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures > > Cool, thanks for sharing them. Who had the white #333 TR3 at the > autox? I like the windshield set up. > > Marty From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Oct 15 21:34:47 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 23:34:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Miata seats for TR6 - have the brackets, need the seats In-Reply-To: <4888.192.246.38.159.1255634146.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <470746944.4468291255626674105.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4888.192.246.38.159.1255634146.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: <66ACB89D4C00473293E6F3C474E3C8CE@BOBSNEWPC> Lee, Go and post a request about seats on www.miata.net which is what I did. Then check out these guys www.btdtracing.com & www.isellmiataparts.com They told me they have a bunch of seats. Seeing as they're a race outfit, the seats may be in good shape having been removed for racing seats. I got my covers from Leatherseats.com and they differentiate between the '96 & '97 seats. They may be worth an email or call to see what the difference is. I was also told that the original fabric holds up very well and that fabric spray "paint" does a great job of making them look like new. But I do love the leather covers! What every your do...........go for the head rest speakers! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee Daniels Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 3:16 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Miata seats for TR6 - have the brackets, need the seats I have had the "uncle jack" brackets for some time now, and keep looking for Miata seats to finish the conversion. But no luck so far! Any hints about finding good seats? I looked at Bob Danielson's very nice page on overhauling a set of seats - I'd be happier if I found seats that were "good enough" to not require such extensive repair. I was betting that here in the Houston area I would be able to find good seats; we're pretty flush with junk yards in every direction. But so far (and I haven't really gone all out on my search) no luck. Also - I recall that the '90-'97 seats were the correct ones to fit; is my understanding correct? many thanks, Lee This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 15 21:35:27 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 03:35:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <560601552.4732291255664127485.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Close inspection of http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/3972935283 shows the name Daryll Clark painted on the car. I spoke with folks in the team and I think they are from Southern California. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "marty sukey" wrote: > From: "marty sukey" > To: pethier at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 7:52:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: RE: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures > > Cool, thanks for sharing them. Who had the white #333 TR3 at the > autox? I like the windshield set up. From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Oct 15 22:04:16 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 00:04:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <38CDCC81-5F65-49A7-AFF7-FF355AA817EF@cox.net> References: <1902695322.5711121255655394731.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><199C63E7649341CA80278026B30CE268@KARL> <38CDCC81-5F65-49A7-AFF7-FF355AA817EF@cox.net> Message-ID: <8CC1C2CDCD51A48-4CE8-8BEE@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com> John, Not meaning to sound facetious, but a furnace room is a room with a furnace in it. Usually the room is a bit warmer and dryer than any other room in the house, for obvious reasons. Not as common anymore as many homes have the furnace in the entire basement rather than in a separate room. Make sense? Aaron -----Original Message----- From: John A. Wise <60TR3A at cox.net> To: Triumph car discussion Sports Sent: Thu, Oct 15, 2009 11:00 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct Karl, What is a furnace room??? John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ On 15 Oct, 2009, at 7:17 PM, Karl Vacek wrote: > What about cleaning it really well, letting it dry thoroughly (maybe > a few days in the furnace room ??), and then a good coat of > something like Thompson's Water Seal before painting ?? > > Karl > > >> Oh well.B Question, then.B Is there a paint that would render >> cardboard >> impervious to rain, or is there, as Fred mentioned, a stainless >> steel duct out >> there being manufactured by someone on the List??? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Thu Oct 15 22:20:13 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 21:20:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures In-Reply-To: <1806471845.4729871255663539774.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1806471845.4729871255663539774.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <19412E9C60BE48BD9C9607E00C5D46DB@joepentiumnew> I do believe the 333 TR3 belongs to Daryll Clark. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 8:26 PM To: marty sukey Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures I never had a memory, and age has not improved it. The 333 TR3 was fantastic. It could have been fast, too, with better tires, but he is saving his 710 stickies for the track. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "marty sukey" wrote: > From: "marty sukey" > To: pethier at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 7:52:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: RE: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pictures > > Cool, thanks for sharing them. Who had the white #333 TR3 at the > autox? I like the windshield set up. > > Marty This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 15 22:53:02 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 21:53:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <38CDCC81-5F65-49A7-AFF7-FF355AA817EF@cox.net> Message-ID: <20091016045302311.CSYH3542@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> > What is a furnace room??? Think outside your front door, about 2 PM on an August afternoon, but usually without the bright light. Randall From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Oct 16 06:09:26 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 07:09:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct References: <1902695322.5711121255655394731.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><199C63E7649341CA80278026B30CE268@KARL> <38CDCC81-5F65-49A7-AFF7-FF355AA817EF@cox.net> Message-ID: <0B6CCA221C2C48A79DCC76BAF5312DDE@KARL> C'mon up here for a visit it'll be obvious. You don't even need to wait till January -- "Global Warming" is giving the furnace a good work-out already. Karl > What is a furnace room??? > > John From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 16 06:15:10 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 08:15:10 EDT Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct Message-ID: In a message dated 10/15/2009 10:49:43 PM Central Daylight Time, 60TR3A at cox.net writes: > Karl, > > What is a furnace room??? > > John > > John A. Wise > Glendale, AZ > A furnace room is a hot, uncomfortable place that causes things to become really, really dry. A lot like Phoenix. Dave From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Oct 16 08:02:59 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 10:02:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphest VTR question References: <8634013AAE2C40DD884CC2BED51A6BB2@HAMPC> Message-ID: Steve, it wasn't my 3 at Triumphest, but I do have that set up on my car. If you need pictures let me know. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Ball" To: Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 10:59 PM Subject: [TR] Triumphest VTR question > Who had the dark green TR3 with the TR4 curved intake manifold and "short > body" SU's, at the Funcours on Saturday at Triumphest? > > I didn't notice the setup until I reviewed my pictures, and I wish I'd > taken more detailed shots of the throttle linkage connection, etc. > > > I hope to post some Funcours pix soon if I can find time to upload them to > the web. > > > Steve Ball > Lompoc Ca > '60 TR3A TS68164L > email: banjonut at verizon.net From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Oct 16 08:47:35 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 07:47:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <87785.3109.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <87785.3109.qm@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0910160747h12211cf5n684c05ad4e3c6088@mail.gmail.com> On 10/15/09, P Caffrey wrote: > I learned that the original radiator ducts for the TR4 and 4A were of a > different size. I didn't realize that, most likely because I have never seen a 4A with an original duct (or at least didn't pay attention when I did). Certainly the change in the shape of the radiator would make the 4 duct a poor fit on the 4A so I can see why you would want to preserve an old one. Geo From pethier at comcast.net Fri Oct 16 11:03:38 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 17:03:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <8CC1C2CDCD51A48-4CE8-8BEE@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <312050693.4897731255712618434.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Now he's going to ask you, "What's a basement?" Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- acekraut11 at aol.com wrote: > From: acekraut11 at aol.com > To: 60TR3A at cox.net, Triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 11:04:16 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct > > John, > > Not meaning to sound facetious, but a furnace room is a room with a > furnace in > it. Usually the room is a bit warmer and dryer than any other room in > the > house, for obvious reasons. Not as common anymore as many homes have > the > furnace in the entire basement rather than in a separate room. > > Make sense? > > Aaron > > Karl, > > What is a furnace room??? > > John > > John A. Wise > Glendale, AZ From brad.kahler at 141.com Fri Oct 16 12:01:45 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 18:01:45 GMT Subject: [TR] For Sale: NOS Lucas parts (Mostly TR3) Message-ID: <200910161201597.SM03696@[166.70.182.51]> Ok, all the NOS parts are spoken for. The parts are going to whoever responded first saying they would take them. Thanks again, Brad From pethier at comcast.net Fri Oct 16 12:23:27 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 18:23:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphfest photos online for browsing.... In-Reply-To: <438754039.4936351255717269816.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <705550946.4937111255717407511.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Alan Myers" wrote: > Well, there I was... Triumphless?at Triumphfest. I just had to settle > for taking tons of photos... > Especially at the Autocross since I'd never photographed one before > and am always up for a new challenge. I've done lots of them, and you did just fine. > Yes, Carl, I got lots of TR4 shots, as you requested. Yay! > Unfortunately I wasn't able to stick around for the last two or three > groups of cars at the Autocross. Nuts. Did ANYBODY shoot TR44SUE at the autocross? I was among the last to run. Possibly a poor choice as Andy said the course was going off... Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From brad.kahler at 141.com Fri Oct 16 12:54:07 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 18:54:07 GMT Subject: [TR] TR3 parts in Paris KY (craigs list) Message-ID: <200910161254738.SM00964@[166.70.182.51]> Found this listed in the Paris Kentucky craigs list. NFI. Just thougth someone might be interested. http://lexington.craigslist.org/pts/1417726530.html Brad From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Fri Oct 16 13:14:04 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:14:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct In-Reply-To: <312050693.4897731255712618434.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <8CC1C2CDCD51A48-4CE8-8BEE@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I can answer that one... A basement is a room or several rooms build in a hole under the building. If properly build it should fill with water as soon as anything of value is placed in it. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 17:03:38 +0000 > From: pethier at comcast.net > To: acekraut11 at aol.com > CC: Triumphs at autox.team.net; 60TR3A at cox.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct > > Now he's going to ask you, "What's a basement?" > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > > ----- acekraut11 at aol.com wrote: > > > From: acekraut11 at aol.com > > To: 60TR3A at cox.net, Triumphs at autox.team.net > > Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 11:04:16 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > > Subject: Re: [TR] Cleaning Cardboard Radiator Duct > > > > John, > > > > Not meaning to sound facetious, but a furnace room is a room with a > > furnace in > > it. Usually the room is a bit warmer and dryer than any other room in > > the > > house, for obvious reasons. Not as common anymore as many homes have > > the > > furnace in the entire basement rather than in a separate room. > > > > Make sense? > > > > Aaron > > > > > Karl, > > > > What is a furnace room??? > > > > John > > > > John A. Wise > > Glendale, AZ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Fri Oct 16 13:44:16 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 19:44:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: <83F924D12A984AD08982A356B84AFF9D@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <1335841599.4972901255722256030.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > But you did not transport a living room suite to the event! :) I did. Also bedroom, bathroom and kitchen. Have not run the numbers yet, but expect somewhere between 6 and 7 MPG. Biggest problem is that sometimes we could not get to gasoline pumps. Next time, diesel. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From wbeech at flash.net Fri Oct 16 19:04:30 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 19:04:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake/Clutch Res Leak Message-ID: <1AD89E4F23B34A50B63CAC720203F466@bboffice> I have the very slightest leak from the Brake/Clutch reservoir, lost about an inch over the summer, fortunately I have DOT 5 and have not lost any paint. I believe the problem is the rubber washer that secures the pipe fittings to the can, but I cannot seem to find these individually available. Has anyone chased these down while re-building this can? Also, I cannot find the stops that act to control the travel on the brake and clutch pedals. My car did not have these when I got it, just the holes, and I don't see them listed in anyone's catalog. (if I am looking in the right places) Thanks!!!! Bill Yes, it was a beautiful day for a nice long drive, maybe the last one of the year! Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From tomleavy at comcast.net Fri Oct 16 20:09:37 2009 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 02:09:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stag for sale In-Reply-To: <48268240.5991381255745323544.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1877818208.5991521255745377845.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Howdy Listers- Selling my 1971 Stag. The auction is on E*bay. Sorry to bomb and run. Thanks for looking. Regards, Tom From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Oct 16 20:58:39 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 22:58:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake/Clutch Res Leak In-Reply-To: <1AD89E4F23B34A50B63CAC720203F466@bboffice> Message-ID: <4AD8FA9F.4972.154390EA@localhost> On 16 Oct 2009 at 19:04, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > My car did not have these when I got it, just the holes, > and I don't see them listed in anyone's catalog. Do you have a source for NOS holes? They are rather hard to find. Should there be stops for the brake and clutch pedal? Surely you don't want one on the brake. On the Spitfire clutch the MC is essentially self-stopping. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Oct 16 21:00:41 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 20:00:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stag for sale In-Reply-To: <1877818208.5991521255745377845.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20091017030041404.GZUY3542@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> > Sorry to bomb and run. Thanks for looking. Hmm, if you are going to treat us on the list like that (no mention of auction number, or where the car is located); how are you going to treat an eBay bidder? No thanks, not worth taking the time to look it up. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Oct 16 21:11:55 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 20:11:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake/Clutch Res Leak In-Reply-To: <1AD89E4F23B34A50B63CAC720203F466@bboffice> Message-ID: <20091017031155385.CBDQ16243@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > Also, I cannot find the stops that act to control the travel > on the brake > and clutch pedals. They are just ordinary hex-head bolts; 1/4-28 thread by 1-1/8" long. TRF has em listed under P/N HU709. Sorry, don't recall where I found washers for the reservoir. But since there is no pressure involved, an ordinary EPDM washer should do fine. Randall From banjonut at verizon.net Fri Oct 16 22:34:18 2009 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 21:34:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest Funcours Pictuires Message-ID: Hello Listers, Here are some pictures from Saturday's Funcours at Triumphest. Obviously I was a little obsessed with certain things that I wanted to photograph to show the body guy regarding how other cars looked, so please ignore the endless shots of things like boot lids, etc. These pix aren't great....there are duplicates, and I haven't culled-out any bad shots yet, but maybe you can get a feel for the event, and how many cars were there. We were amazed. If anyone wants a large version of any of these files let me know and I'll send it. I hope this link works: http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=f8cb3e7c040cb0f4&sid=0AZt2bNmzaOGLnQ Steve Ball Lompoc Ca '60 TR3A email: banjonut at verizon.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 17 00:45:22 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 23:45:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake/Clutch Res Leak In-Reply-To: <4AD8FA9F.4972.154390EA@localhost> Message-ID: <20091017064521751.EJIP16243@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > Should there be stops for the brake and clutch pedal? Actually, that is a good point. The factory discontinued installing the pedal stops at some point, without deleting the holes. The TRA judging guidelines give the change point as TS34311, but notes that some later cars may have been fitted with stops by the factory. The SPC was never updated to indicate that the stops were removed; but it also does not show the extra nuts and washers needed to fit the stops to the later cars with plain holes in the MC mounting bracket. The earlier cars had a nut welded on the inside instead of a plain hole, so only a single jam nut was required (per pedal). If you do install the stops, it's very important that they still allow some freeplay in the MC pushrod with the pedal against the stop. Otherwise the 'foot' valve in the MC may not open to allow excess fluid to return to the reservoir, which can cause dragging brakes or potentially even a slipping clutch. ISTR the book specifies .010" freeplay minimum. Randall From tomleavy at comcast.net Sat Oct 17 04:56:46 2009 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 10:56:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stag for sale In-Reply-To: <20091017030041404.GZUY3542@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <827299164.6022491255777006912.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hi Randall- I see your point, so let me explain. I figured I'd just point folks in the right direction, and if interested, it would be easy enough to find a Stag on Ebay. Regarding treatment of bidders, I have excellent feedback, and that reputation speaks for itself. I'm just trying to sell a car. My apologies if I offended. Sincerely, Tom Thomas Leavy Oceanport, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 11:00:41 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] Stag for sale > Sorry to bomb and run. Thanks for looking. Hmm, if you are going to treat us on the list like that (no mention of auction number, or where the car is located); how are you going to treat an eBay bidder? No thanks, not worth taking the time to look it up. Randall _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Oct 17 07:02:38 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 09:02:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake/Clutch Res Leak In-Reply-To: <1AD89E4F23B34A50B63CAC720203F466@bboffice> References: <1AD89E4F23B34A50B63CAC720203F466@bboffice> Message-ID: <200910170902.39562.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 16 October 2009 09:04:30 pm wbeech at flash.net wrote: > I have the very slightest leak from the Brake/Clutch reservoir, lost about > an inch over the summer, fortunately I have DOT 5 and have not lost any > paint. I believe the problem is the rubber washer that secures the pipe > fittings to the can, but I cannot seem to find these individually > available. Has anyone chased these down while re-building this can? > > Also, I cannot find the stops that act to control the travel on the brake > and clutch pedals. My car did not have these when I got it, just the > holes, and I don't see them listed in anyone's catalog. (if I am looking in > the right places) > > Thanks!!!! > Bill > Bill, If you cant stop the leak at the reservoir you might want to try my fix. Years ago, I decided to put an end to the constant leak and paint pealing by soldering both connections on the bottom of the reservoir. I used acid core solder and a propane torch. This was in 1972. When I restored my current 58 back in 1979, I used the same solution. As you might guess, there has never been a leak since. I cant for the life of me think why that assembly would ever need to be disassembled. For me a permanent fix to a perpetual problem. The only leak I have had since was in the brake MC which needed a rebuild. As far as the stops, Randall is correct. 1/4 * 28 bolts with nuts. Adjust for some free play. Bob- From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Sat Oct 17 10:04:20 2009 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 11:04:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stag for sale Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB21326F@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Tom et al- Your post was not at all offensive to me. In fact, if I were interested in a Stag, it would have been helpful! Over the years I have found the best way to find cars I have an interest in is through networking with other car owners and enthuasists. I bought a TR3B, TR6 and TR 250 that way. None were advertised to the public to my knowledge. FWIW, just this morning, my friend, Keith Bryson's estate, auctioned his 1973 Stag and 1987 Jaguar XJ6 (with 4,500 miles). The Stag sold for $7,000 and the Jaguar sold for $20,000. I didn't feel right attending the auction and it seemed a very commercial way to conclude a very personal hobby. Oh well,........at least the TR 250 went to a personal friend of Keith's. This list has been helpful to me over the years and I hope all will feel free to post helpful items for us all. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tomleavy at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 5:57 AM To: Randall Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Stag for sale Hi Randall- I see your point, so let me explain. I figured I'd just point folks in the right direction, and if interested, it would be easy enough to find a Stag on Ebay. Regarding treatment of bidders, I have excellent feedback, and that reputation speaks for itself. I'm just trying to sell a car. My apologies if I offended. Sincerely, Tom Thomas Leavy Oceanport, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 11:00:41 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] Stag for sale > Sorry to bomb and run. Thanks for looking. Hmm, if you are going to treat us on the list like that (no mention of auction number, or where the car is located); how are you going to treat an eBay bidder? No thanks, not worth taking the time to look it up. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.421 / Virus Database: 270.14.12/2431 - Release Date: 10/16/09 18:39:00 From wbeech at flash.net Sat Oct 17 11:15:57 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 11:15:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphest Funcours Pictuires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <31855F47FF6F4F578BB25A3C726E5963@bboffice> Great pics, lots of TR3s showing under-bonnet and fit & trim shots. Thanks for sharing! Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Ball Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 10:34 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Triumphest Funcours Pictuires Hello Listers, Here are some pictures from Saturday's Funcours at Triumphest. Obviously I was a little obsessed with certain things that I wanted to photograph to show the body guy regarding how other cars looked, so please ignore the endless shots of things like boot lids, etc. These pix aren't great....there are duplicates, and I haven't culled-out any bad shots yet, but maybe you can get a feel for the event, and how many cars were there. We were amazed. If anyone wants a large version of any of these files let me know and I'll send it. I hope this link works: http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=f8cb3e7c040cb0f4 &sid=0AZt2bNmzaOGLnQ Steve Ball Lompoc Ca '60 TR3A email: banjonut at verizon.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat Oct 17 11:36:48 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 12:36:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stag for sale In-Reply-To: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB21326F@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> References: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB21326F@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Message-ID: I will not try to speak for Randall, but over the years there have been many posts about people selling parts and cars etc. The most offensive thing is if someone joins the list just to sell their car, which I'm not saying you did. Another thing is not to give enough information. If you had provided the ebay number and the location of the car, I assume nothing would have been said. I do not think Mark wants any business listings either. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Oct 17 12:59:41 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 11:59:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Heater Message-ID: Everyone made the furnace room sound so interesting I thought I should install a heater in my TR3A. Seriously, in the wither in Phoenix it sometimes gets below 40F, and I have to drive with my nose against the windscreen! :-) Actually I bought the heater described by Bill Brewer http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12-volt-maradyne-cab-heater-12-500-btu.html It may need to hang an inch below the dash to fit, but it has holes on the side that I can use for the de-mister tubes - as you probably know the humidity in Phoenix can sometimes be overwhelming. I will probably have to sweat some elbows on the hot water lines but it appears that everything should fit. When I get it installed, I will post some pictures. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Oct 17 13:00:35 2009 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 19:00:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stag for sale In-Reply-To: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB21326F@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Message-ID: <1190458080.7158391255806035695.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> if a member is selling his car or spares, let the list know.B but please include more information..... i WANT to know if parts and cars are for sale! if a guy joins the list merely to list his car or a car he is selling, well, that may be outside the pale. rayB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Thornton" To: tomleavy at comcast.net, "Randall" Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 11:04:20 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [TR] Stag for sale Tom et al- Your post was not at all offensive to me. In fact, if I were interested in a Stag, it would have been helpful! Over the years I have found the best way to find cars I have an interest in is through networking with other car owners and enthuasists. I bought a TR3B, TR6 and TR 250 that way. None were advertised to the public to my knowledge. FWIW, just this morning, my friend, Keith Bryson's estate, auctioned his 1973 Stag and 1987 Jaguar XJ6 (with 4,500 miles). The Stag sold for $7,000 and the Jaguar sold for $20,000. I didn't feel right attending the auction and it seemed a very commercial way to conclude a very personal hobby. Oh well,........at least the TR 250 went to a personal friend of Keith's. This list has been helpful to me over the years and I hope all will feel free to post helpful items for us all. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tomleavy at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 5:57 AM To: Randall Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Stag for sale Hi Randall- I see your point, so let me explain. I figured I'd just point folks in the right direction, and if interested, it would be easy enough to find a Stag on Ebay. Regarding treatment of bidders, I have excellent feedback, and that reputation speaks for itself. I'm just trying to sell a car. My apologies if I offended. Sincerely, Tom Thomas Leavy Oceanport, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 11:00:41 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] Stag for sale > Sorry to bomb and run. Thanks for looking. Hmm, if you are going to treat us on the list like that (no mention of auction number, or where the car is located); how are you going to treat an eBay bidder? No thanks, not worth taking the time to look it up. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.421 / Virus Database: 270.14.12/2431 - Release Date: 10/16/09 18:39:00 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From auprichard at comcast.net Sat Oct 17 13:51:05 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 15:51:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] help needed In-Reply-To: <1190458080.7158391255806035695.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB21326F@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> <1190458080.7158391255806035695.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <384332AE649F4E588B8A30591E5CB178@DCH6RFC1> List: I am looking for someone in the New England area who I could turn to to have a hood (soft top) and sidescreens fitted. My last TR3 has an OK top and sidescreens, but I've never been completely happy with the result. Any names / contact information would be great. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard Sherborn, Massachusetts From don at napanet.net Sat Oct 17 16:02:19 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 15:02:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stag for sale In-Reply-To: <1190458080.7158391255806035695.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westc hester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB21326F@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> <1190458080.7158391255806035695.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20091017150131.03d6dd88@pop.napanet.net> unless it's a really good deal! At 12:00 PM 10/17/2009, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: >if a member is selling his car or spares, let the list know.B but please >include more information..... > >i WANT to know if parts and cars are for sale! > >if a guy joins the list merely to list his car or a car he is selling, well, >that may be outside the pale. > >rayB > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Steve Thornton" >To: tomleavy at comcast.net, "Randall" >Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 11:04:20 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central >Subject: Re: [TR] Stag for sale > >Tom et al- > > >Your post was not at all offensive to me. > >In fact, if I were interested in a Stag, it would have been helpful! >Over the years I have found the best way to find cars I have an interest >in is through networking with other car owners and enthuasists. I bought >a TR3B, TR6 and TR 250 that way. None were advertised to the public to >my knowledge. > >FWIW, just this morning, my friend, Keith Bryson's estate, auctioned his >1973 Stag and 1987 Jaguar XJ6 (with 4,500 miles). The Stag sold for >$7,000 and the Jaguar sold for $20,000. I didn't feel right attending >the auction and it seemed a very commercial way to conclude a very >personal hobby. Oh well,........at least the TR 250 went to a personal >friend of Keith's. > >This list has been helpful to me over the years and I hope all will feel >free to post helpful items for us all. > > > >Steve Thornton >Bowling Green, KY > > >-----Original Message----- >From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >tomleavy at comcast.net >Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 5:57 AM >To: Randall >Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] Stag for sale > >Hi Randall- > > >I see your point, so let me explain. I figured I'd just point folks in >the right direction, and if interested, it would be easy enough to find >a Stag on Ebay. Regarding treatment of bidders, I have excellent >feedback, and that reputation speaks for itself. I'm just trying to sell >a car. > > >My apologies if I offended. > > >Sincerely, Tom > > >Thomas Leavy > >Oceanport, NJ > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Randall" >To: Triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 11:00:41 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern >Subject: Re: [TR] Stag for sale > > > Sorry to bomb and run. Thanks for looking. > >Hmm, if you are going to treat us on the list like that (no mention of >auction number, or where the car is located); how are you going to treat >an eBay bidder? > >No thanks, not worth taking the time to look it up. > >Randall >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > >http://www.team.net/archive >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > >http://www.team.net/archive > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 8.5.421 / Virus Database: 270.14.12/2431 - Release Date: >10/16/09 18:39:00 >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > >http://www.team.net/archive >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > >http://www.team.net/archive > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 8.5.422 / Virus Database: 270.14.20/2443 - Release Date: 10/17/09 >13:08:00 From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Oct 17 16:48:45 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 23:48:45 +0100 Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans-AmeriCan - Website and other issues Message-ID: <79904703431A421CAB3955C0946D4DFF@John> Hi, Everyone As many of you will have seen from the 'Net, the TTACD finished ON TIME (tho one hour late), ON DATE and after 15,400 miles rather than the 10,500 miles we had originally estimated through Microsoft Streets and Trips! Liz and I are now back in the UK after a planned break and much anticipated brief vacation on Queen Mary 2. Sadly, it didn't quite work out as we had foreseen and planned. First, the TTACD website. At the end of the Drive the web URL expired and while I tried to reactivate it from the US, it couldn't be done until I returned to the UK. I actually got back early on Thursday morning and since then have hardly had a chance to look at the 4900 emails that awaited my return. I'm really planning to do my best to get the original web URL back on-line as soon as I can but it was only today that my elder son came off his life support system in hospital. As Liz and I passed near the grave of the Titanic last week, I received a text message from number two son that Nick was being 'blues and two-ed' into hospital with necrotizing fasciitis in his leg. Not a lot you can do from the middle of the Atlantic unless you're on an aircraft carrier to get quickly to a bedside. NF is a speedy killer if not attended to immediately and while much tissue has been removed resulting in extensive plastic surgery, he has neither lost his leg or his life. The longer term downside is that his transplanted kidney has also packed up, he has an enlarged heart, a blocked aorta and a seriously enlarged spleen - but fortunately, we live in a country where "Socialised Medecine" really DOES work (Republican Senators and Congressmen please note?) and we know Nick is in truly fantastic hands - and not having to worry "if the insurance will cover the cost?". But all this is likely to delay things a bit in terms of website update and I can only ask for your forebearance if processes to do with the event take a little longer than they should. In the meantime, keep your browser pointed at www.triumphtransamerica.org for new info as it gets posted. Cheers, Jonmac From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Oct 17 17:03:18 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 00:03:18 +0100 Subject: [TR] "Retiring from the TR hobby" References: <6.0.3.0.1.20091011092913.04058880@pop.napanet.net> <4AD39C87.14882.4C0906@localhost> Message-ID: <9F018C2FD603488D95AE4C274E52C8EB@John> Jim Muller wrote: > We drive the GT6 and turn heads. Most are the heads of bored women > in the passenger seats of SUVs driven by husbands intent on passing > us. They turn and smile as we slide backwards. Jim, that happened a few times during the Trans-AmeriCan Drive - sort of. I too got the envious looks from passengers as the car in which they were travelling started to draw ahead. However, when "uncle jack" was fully broken in, I 'took them on' - for fun. Disengaged overdrive, changed down to third and floored the accelerator!!! Just kept piling on the power, the revs and up-changing as I was leading the increasing gap between us. More than once when people caught up with me again and either shouted across the windblast or the next set of lights -"whaddya got under that hood?" The reply was simple "Nothing much. Just a thirty five year old 150 cube British V8 - and a six speed box." It's the sort of thing that brings a self-satisfied smile to most older car owner's face.......... Jonmac From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Oct 17 18:37:43 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 20:37:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] plastic tranny covers Message-ID: <4ADA2B17.27322.19E8E2EB@localhost> I have plastic tranny covers in both the Spitfire and GT6. IIRC, they came from different sources (Spitbits, TRF) but I may be mistaken. As far as I noticed they are the same. They've been in the cars for more than a few years. Neither fit particuarly well, okay but not great for several reasons. The GT6 cover is now slightly cracked in one spot. And driving through severe rain and puddles for the CCBCC British Legends ride taught me the value of having a better fit to the firewall! So I'm considering fitting another and doing it more carefully. Any thoughts or experiences with them? Is any vendor's better than another or are they all really the same from the same manufacturer? Tanks, Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Oct 17 18:58:06 2009 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 20:58:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stainless Steel TR4A radiator shroud Message-ID: <1CB5838E316447CABA70B7AD4DF6DE58@DaveLaptop> Hi List, Just sitting here watch TV and catching up on emails. The thread that we had on the Triumph list regarding cleaning the paper radiator shrouds reminded me that somewhere I had seen either a TR4A or TR6 with a really nice stainless steel radiator shroud. Does anybody out there know where I could get one for my TR4A? I am months away (hopefully) from needing it but I thought I would mention it while I was thinking about it. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From spitlist at cox.net Sat Oct 17 19:00:28 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 18:00:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] plastic tranny covers In-Reply-To: <4ADA2B17.27322.19E8E2EB@localhost> References: <4ADA2B17.27322.19E8E2EB@localhost> Message-ID: <5F44E0705D564EA88D41885C39CA752D@joepentiumnew> I have a PVC one in my red Spit and it fits and works well. I insulated the underneath by spraying Urethane foam (from an aerosol can purchased at Home Depot). That works well and can be trimmed with an electric knife (Just don't tell the wife). Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 5:38 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net; Spitfire list Subject: [Spits] plastic tranny covers I have plastic tranny covers in both the Spitfire and GT6. IIRC, they came from different sources (Spitbits, TRF) but I may be mistaken. As far as I noticed they are the same. They've been in the cars for more than a few years. Neither fit particuarly well, okay but not great for several reasons. The GT6 cover is now slightly cracked in one spot. And driving through severe rain and puddles for the CCBCC British Legends ride taught me the value of having a better fit to the firewall! So I'm considering fitting another and doing it more carefully. Any thoughts or experiences with them? Is any vendor's better than another or are they all really the same from the same manufacturer? Tanks, Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Oct 17 19:00:44 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 21:00:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] plastic tranny covers In-Reply-To: <4ADA2B17.27322.19E8E2EB@localhost> References: <4ADA2B17.27322.19E8E2EB@localhost> Message-ID: <1442DCD7259B44568C61462C1F61A025@BOBSNEWPC> Jim, When I did my 5 speed conversion I went to the poly tunnel (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5SpeedInterior.htm) and did a few things to get a good fit. I drilled all the holes in the tunnel out to 1/2" to give me some bolt slop. I test fitted, punched out the holes and notched the rubber sealing strip so that it "flowed" with the shape of the tunnel bottom. I used some Ultra-black on the floor and pressed the strip into it to better seal and hold it in place. I did the same for the firewall which is a PITA to do so some guys skip it. What I wished I had done and was suggested to my by a TR6 buddy was to thread the tunnel bolts up from underneath the car. That way you have the bolt end sticking up and inch or so which makes it very easy to fit the tunnel to the bolt. I just used this trick on my Miata seats which made it much easier to catch the seat bracket. I also covered the tunnel with FatMat and carpet underlayment. The upside is as very quiet (relatively speaking) and cool interior. The downside is that the added thickness made it very difficult to get the dash support back in place. I don't remember who I got the tunnel from.......but it was on sale at the time! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 8:38 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net; Spitfire list Subject: [TR] plastic tranny covers I have plastic tranny covers in both the Spitfire and GT6. IIRC, they came from different sources (Spitbits, TRF) but I may be mistaken. As far as I noticed they are the same. They've been in the cars for more than a few years. Neither fit particuarly well, okay but not great for several reasons. The GT6 cover is now slightly cracked in one spot. And driving through severe rain and puddles for the CCBCC British Legends ride taught me the value of having a better fit to the firewall! So I'm considering fitting another and doing it more carefully. Any thoughts or experiences with them? Is any vendor's better than another or are they all really the same from the same manufacturer? Tanks, Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sat Oct 17 19:21:22 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 21:21:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans-AmeriCan - Website and other issues In-Reply-To: <79904703431A421CAB3955C0946D4DFF@John> References: <79904703431A421CAB3955C0946D4DFF@John> Message-ID: <4ADA6D92.1020305@earthlink.net> John, Glad to hear your trip ended well. I hope you guys did well in donations! Also glad to hear your son is doing well and wasn't stuck on the waiting list. Continued prayers for his speedy recovery. Joe John Macartney wrote: > Hi, Everyone > As many of you will have seen from the 'Net, the TTACD finished ON > TIME (tho one hour late), ON DATE and after 15,400 miles rather than > the 10,500 miles we had originally estimated through Microsoft Streets > and Trips! > Liz and I are now back in the UK after a planned break and much > anticipated brief vacation on Queen Mary 2. Sadly, it didn't quite > work out as we had foreseen and planned. > First, the TTACD website. At the end of the Drive the web URL expired > and while I tried to reactivate it from the US, it couldn't be done > until I returned to the UK. I actually got back early on Thursday > morning and since then have hardly had a chance to look at the 4900 > emails that awaited my return. I'm really planning to do my best to > get the original web URL back on-line as soon as I can but it was only > today that my elder son came off his life support system in hospital. > As Liz and I passed near the grave of the Titanic last week, I > received a text message from number two son that Nick was being 'blues > and two-ed' into hospital with necrotizing fasciitis in his leg. Not a > lot you can do from the middle of the Atlantic unless you're on an > aircraft carrier to get quickly to a bedside. NF is a speedy killer if > not attended to immediately and while much tissue has been removed > resulting in extensive plastic surgery, he has neither lost his leg or > his life. The longer term downside is that his transplanted kidney has > also packed up, he has an enlarged heart, a blocked aorta and a > seriously enlarged spleen - but fortunately, we live in a country > where "Socialised Medecine" really DOES work (Republican Senators and > Congressmen please note?) and we know Nick is in truly fantastic hands > - and not having to worry "if the insurance will cover the cost?". > But all this is likely to delay things a bit in terms of website > update and I can only ask for your forebearance if processes to do > with the event take a little longer than they should. > In the meantime, keep your browser pointed at > www.triumphtransamerica.org for new info as it gets posted. > > Cheers, Jonmac _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sat Oct 17 19:35:31 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 18:35:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Stainless Steel TR4A radiator shroud In-Reply-To: <1CB5838E316447CABA70B7AD4DF6DE58@DaveLaptop> References: <1CB5838E316447CABA70B7AD4DF6DE58@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <549242.29298.qm@web59707.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Hi Dave, I was the guy that sent out the inquiry on the TR4A duct/shroud cleaning. I purchased and received an original cardboard one. Before prepping and painting it, I am attempting to have it reproduced at a sheet metal shop at the school I work at--as a student or class project. I'm also requesting a graphic measurement of the duct. I really don't know if I'll get either with the budget cuts at CA community colleges. If I can get precise dimensions on the duct, I'll gladly share it with List members.....The List has been tremendously helpful to me, so it's the least I can do. I'll also mention, seek out your local community college as many welcome "real life" projects. They are slow, usually, as the project has to fit in with their curriculum and scheduling. Pat TR4A '67, (also IRS) ________________________________ From: Dave Connitt To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, October 17, 2009 5:58:06 PM Subject: [TR] Stainless Steel TR4A radiator shroud Hi List, Just sitting here watch TV and catching up on emails. The thread that we had on the Triumph list regarding cleaning the paper radiator shrouds reminded me that somewhere I had seen either a TR4A or TR6 with a really nice stainless steel radiator shroud. Does anybody out there know where I could get one for my TR4A? I am months away (hopefully) from needing it but I thought I would mention it while I was thinking about it. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Sat Oct 17 19:42:18 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 01:42:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphest Funcours Pictuires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <820495784.5340971255830138714.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Thanks, Steve! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Steve Ball" wrote: > From: "Steve Ball" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 11:34:18 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] Triumphest Funcours Pictuires > > Hello Listers, > > Here are some pictures from Saturday's Funcours at Triumphest. > Obviously I > was a little obsessed with certain things that I wanted to photograph > to > show the body guy regarding how other cars looked, so please ignore > the > endless shots of things like boot lids, etc. > > These pix aren't great....there are duplicates, and I haven't > culled-out any > bad shots yet, but maybe you can get a feel for the event, and how > many cars > were there. We were amazed. If anyone wants a large version of any > of > these files let me know and I'll send it. > > I hope this link works: > http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=f8cb3e7c040cb0f4&sid=0AZt2bNmzaOGLnQ > > > Steve Ball > Lompoc Ca > '60 TR3A > email: banjonut at verizon.net From spitlist at cox.net Sat Oct 17 19:49:45 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 18:49:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Hot wheels Message-ID: I saw several messages earlier but paid little attention. Today I was in Wal*Mart and bought the 3 that they had on the shelves but they are all in Green with white graphics. I do recall that there were other colors mentioned. Can someone tell me what other colors there are? Thanks, Joe From mark at bradakis.com Sat Oct 17 21:07:19 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 21:07:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 Hot wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4ADA8667.4070802@bradakis.com> The one that was sent to me as a 'hood ornament' for the Team.Net server is silver with blue stripes. mjb. From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Oct 17 21:18:50 2009 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 23:18:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stainless Steel TR4A radiator shroud In-Reply-To: <549242.29298.qm@web59707.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1CB5838E316447CABA70B7AD4DF6DE58@DaveLaptop> <549242.29298.qm@web59707.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <72C89C102A7640428BB775C7BD6F0462@DaveLaptop> Pat, Thanks, I never thought of that.. I am taking a Saturday Morning Autobody class right now at our local community college here in Cincinnati. I will check into that. Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: P Caffrey To: Dave Connitt ; Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 9:35 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Stainless Steel TR4A radiator shroud Hi Dave, I was the guy that sent out the inquiry on the TR4A duct/shroud cleaning. I purchased and received an original cardboard one. Before prepping and painting it, I am attempting to have it reproduced at a sheet metal shop at the school I work at--as a student or class project. I'm also requesting a graphic measurement of the duct. I really don't know if I'll get either with the budget cuts at CA community colleges. If I can get precise dimensions on the duct, I'll gladly share it with List members.....The List has been tremendously helpful to me, so it's the least I can do. I'll also mention, seek out your local community college as many welcome "real life" projects. They are slow, usually, as the project has to fit in with their curriculum and scheduling. Pat TR4A '67, (also IRS) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - From: Dave Connitt To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, October 17, 2009 5:58:06 PM Subject: [TR] Stainless Steel TR4A radiator shroud Hi List, Just sitting here watch TV and catching up on emails. The thread that we had on the Triumph list regarding cleaning the paper radiator shrouds reminded me that somewhere I had seen either a TR4A or TR6 with a really nice stainless steel radiator shroud. Does anybody out there know where I could get one for my TR4A? I am months away (hopefully) from needing it but I thought I would mention it while I was thinking about it. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Oct 18 06:10:00 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 08:10:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stainless Steel TR4A radiator shroud In-Reply-To: <1CB5838E316447CABA70B7AD4DF6DE58@DaveLaptop> References: <1CB5838E316447CABA70B7AD4DF6DE58@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: Richard Good makes them for a TR6. Here is his web site: http://www.goodparts.com/ Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 8:58 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Stainless Steel TR4A radiator shroud Hi List, Just sitting here watch TV and catching up on emails. The thread that we had on the Triumph list regarding cleaning the paper radiator shrouds reminded me that somewhere I had seen either a TR4A or TR6 with a really nice stainless steel radiator shroud. Does anybody out there know where I could get one for my TR4A? I am months away (hopefully) from needing it but I thought I would mention it while I was thinking about it. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Oct 18 06:20:42 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 13:20:42 +0100 Subject: [TR] Fwd: (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? References: <73CA5050177A4D39860430B8C93EB15D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <5D73AD4E65674CA382DEC74EFF2CE4AC@John> This suggestion certainly gets my vote (FWIW) but there's another 'variation on a theme' as well. During the course of the TTACD, I came across a number of people who told me of the existence of various people / organisations around the world offering product solutions for people doing restorations or just maintaining their cars. Mostly (I think) these people operate within the specialised area for their preferred model and they may not be very well known - or even known at all to a wider audience?Things that spring to mind are: Justin Wagner's valve cover gasket Ted Schumacher's braided oil pressure gauge line Joe Curry's camber compensator Dan Masters Wiring Manual A guy in New Zealand who makes very impressive parts for the Stag door handle Glenn Merrell's Stag fan shroud Clubs around Europe (and rest of the world) with reserves of highly unique stocks of parts for their preferred model. Many cars are now operating in countries where they were never originally marketed and there's no real justification for the likes of TRF or Moss or VB to cater for what is essentially a fairly low volume product offering of the 'cottage industry' type As a now non-Triumph owner without any financial interests for the above - or anyone else doing the same thing, I think it would be a great website information resource to track down good quality 'unobtanium'. Price would obviously be a critical factor for many, but actually knowing of the existence of such sources would surely do much to help those who may need what is offered and can't find it elsewhere? I'm thinking mainly of the individual who may have sunk quite a lot of personal resources for tooling / moulds and it would be nice to know he/she was getting a better crack of the whip in getting more of their stuff out into the market place and able to earn a bit more for their labours for the trouble they've gone to in trying to help others. When I'm through the next few weeks of catching up on emails and other issues, I might even consider creating a website myself to help achieve those objectives. No charge to buyer or seller and the fun for me (as a former parts bloke) would be highlighting what's available and where you can (hopefully) get it. Jonmac From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Sun Oct 18 07:20:55 2009 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 09:20:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? In-Reply-To: <5D73AD4E65674CA382DEC74EFF2CE4AC@John> References: <73CA5050177A4D39860430B8C93EB15D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <5D73AD4E65674CA382DEC74EFF2CE4AC@John> Message-ID: On Oct 18, 2009, at 8:20 AM, John Macartney wrote: > As a now non-Triumph owner without any financial interests for the > above - or anyone else doing the same thing, I think it would be a > great website information resource to track down good quality > 'unobtanium'. Price would obviously be a critical factor for many, > but actually knowing of the existence of such sources would surely > do much to help those who may need what is offered and can't find it > elsewhere? I'm thinking mainly of the individual who may have sunk > quite a lot of personal resources for tooling / moulds and it would > be nice to know he/she was getting a better crack of the whip in > getting more of their stuff out into the market place and able to > earn a bit more for their labours for the trouble they've gone to in > trying to help others. Hi John, VTR has just such listings on it's web site. Now that we have a new webmaster, Rick Reeves, count on updates whenever people provide new content. You can send Rick content at webmaster at vtr.org. Just a side note: Also, as a thank you, anyone providing technical articles will be given a one-year membership in VTR or have their membership extended by one year. Several have taken us up on that, Brian Jones comes to mind. He wrote a couple of excellent tech articles: heated driving jacket: and audio in a TR4: . Back to your post... Check out http://vtr.org/other-links.shtml Where you'll find this section, about half way down, intended for individuals who are helping, on a personal level, to keep parts available. If you send the links for the individuals you site in your email, VTR will get them added. Some are already included. Right now, the listing appear as follows: --------------------------- Commercial Sites: PLEASE NOTE: The listing of a commercial or individual's site here in no way constitutes a recommendation by VTR for a particular vendor. These vendors have gone through no approval process to be included in this list. This first set of listings are individuals in the Triumph hobby who manufacture parts on their own to make our cars better:  Dan Masters - Wire Harness, Electronics Manual for TR6  Rick Patton - Fan Eliminator  Rick Patton - Throttle Body Injection (TBI) Upgrade  John Wilson - Throttle Body Injection (TBI) Upgrade  Joe Alexander - Manufacturer of formerly NLA parts, performance parts, and aftermarket parts  Jack Drews - Assorted Machined Pieces  Jeff Palya - Carb Refinishing/Rebuilding  Justin Wagner - Silicon Valve Cover Gaskets  Bob Budd - Hood Liner Heat Shields ------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________ Blake J. Discher,President VINTAGE TRIUMPH REGISTER From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Oct 18 07:54:34 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 09:54:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? In-Reply-To: <5D73AD4E65674CA382DEC74EFF2CE4AC@John> References: <73CA5050177A4D39860430B8C93EB15D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <5D73AD4E65674CA382DEC74EFF2CE4AC@John> Message-ID: Jon, I started collecting that info a few years ago and have a section on my main site page entitled "Creative Triumph Enthusiasts" It has almost 30 people who have taken it upon themselves to fill a product void or to improve on a Triumph component. As you scroll through the List you'll see some very recognizable names as well as the unknown. I've bought a lot of stuff from Ted, but seeing as Triumphs are his business & livelihood, he got posted in the section below on "Suppliers I Use and Recommend" My site is in my signature below and you'll find this section about 2/3 of the way down the page highlighted in yellow. Let me know what you think. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 8:21 AM To: Brian Jones Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? This suggestion certainly gets my vote (FWIW) but there's another 'variation on a theme' as well. During the course of the TTACD, I came across a number of people who told me of the existence of various people / organisations around the world offering product solutions for people doing restorations or just maintaining their cars. Mostly (I think) these people operate within the specialised area for their preferred model and they may not be very well known - or even known at all to a wider audience?Things that spring to mind are: Justin Wagner's valve cover gasket Ted Schumacher's braided oil pressure gauge line Joe Curry's camber compensator Dan Masters Wiring Manual A guy in New Zealand who makes very impressive parts for the Stag door handle Glenn Merrell's Stag fan shroud Clubs around Europe (and rest of the world) with reserves of highly unique stocks of parts for their preferred model. Many cars are now operating in countries where they were never originally marketed and there's no real justification for the likes of TRF or Moss or VB to cater for what is essentially a fairly low volume product offering of the 'cottage industry' type As a now non-Triumph owner without any financial interests for the above - or anyone else doing the same thing, I think it would be a great website information resource to track down good quality 'unobtanium'. Price would obviously be a critical factor for many, but actually knowing of the existence of such sources would surely do much to help those who may need what is offered and can't find it elsewhere? I'm thinking mainly of the individual who may have sunk quite a lot of personal resources for tooling / moulds and it would be nice to know he/she was getting a better crack of the whip in getting more of their stuff out into the market place and able to earn a bit more for their labours for the trouble they've gone to in trying to help others. When I'm through the next few weeks of catching up on emails and other issues, I might even consider creating a website myself to help achieve those objectives. No charge to buyer or seller and the fun for me (as a former parts bloke) would be highlighting what's available and where you can (hopefully) get it. Jonmac This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tdskip at yahoo.com Sun Oct 18 08:40:12 2009 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 07:40:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Shipping "matching" service or forum Message-ID: <773023.15568.qm@web55605.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Sorry guys - I know this was discussed recently but I can't find the post (perhaps not enough coffee yet). Does anyone have the url for the "matching" forum where you can post your to/from and perhaps save some money in the process? Thanks! From paulwillou at socal.rr.com Sun Oct 18 11:23:44 2009 From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 10:23:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? References: <777032.17552.qm@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <60966365703F4CA8B1E4264DCF70A5A3@paulal73q2sjay> Will automotive speaker wire be sufficient to handle the current of the inexpensive Harbor Freight automatic battery chargers? I'm going to install a quick disconnect in the grill so I don't have to open the hood to connect the battery charger. I've got a roll of red and black speaker wire that would make a nice clean installation. But after stripping the insulation off, it doesn't seem like a lot of wire. But then I imagine that there isn't a lot of electricity in that little charger either. paulw 64 TR4 56 TR3 From spitlist at cox.net Sun Oct 18 11:36:10 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 10:36:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: <60966365703F4CA8B1E4264DCF70A5A3@paulal73q2sjay> References: <777032.17552.qm@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <60966365703F4CA8B1E4264DCF70A5A3@paulal73q2sjay> Message-ID: Find out what the maximum current is for the charger and then size the wire so that it will handle that current. If you don't know the current capabilities of the various wire sizes, let me know the current and I will tell you the minimum wire size required. Somehow, speaker wire seems inadequate. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Willoughby Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 10:24 AM To: List Triumph Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? Will automotive speaker wire be sufficient to handle the current of the inexpensive Harbor Freight automatic battery chargers? I'm going to install a quick disconnect in the grill so I don't have to open the hood to connect the battery charger. I've got a roll of red and black speaker wire that would make a nice clean installation. But after stripping the insulation off, it doesn't seem like a lot of wire. But then I imagine that there isn't a lot of electricity in that little charger either. paulw 64 TR4 56 TR3 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From paulwillou at socal.rr.com Sun Oct 18 11:58:01 2009 From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 10:58:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? References: <777032.17552.qm@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <60966365703F4CA8B1E4264DCF70A5A3@paulal73q2sjay> Message-ID: <8B1CBFE4DEDB42D6BFA80349F70E8061@paulal73q2sjay> I've got two different chargers. They both list output as 12V, 500 mA. I don't have any idea what the speaker wire gauge is. I do have a pretty good idea that I don't want to burn down the garage with inadequate wire. [grin] paulw ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" > Find out what the maximum current is for the charger and then size the > wire > so that it will handle that current. If you don't know the current > capabilities of the various wire sizes, let me know the current and I will > tell you the minimum wire size required. > > Somehow, speaker wire seems inadequate. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Willoughby > Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 10:24 AM > To: List Triumph > Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? > > Will automotive speaker wire be sufficient to handle the current of the > inexpensive Harbor Freight automatic battery chargers? > > I'm going to install a quick disconnect in the grill so I don't have to > open > > the hood to connect the battery charger. I've got a roll of red and black > speaker wire that would make a nice clean installation. But after > stripping > > the insulation off, it doesn't seem like a lot of wire. But then I > imagine > that there isn't a lot of electricity in that little charger either. > > paulw > > 64 TR4 > 56 TR3 From mark at bradakis.com Sun Oct 18 12:10:44 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 12:10:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? In-Reply-To: <5D73AD4E65674CA382DEC74EFF2CE4AC@John> References: <73CA5050177A4D39860430B8C93EB15D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <5D73AD4E65674CA382DEC74EFF2CE4AC@John> Message-ID: <4ADB5A24.1020503@bradakis.com> Folks who supply various odds and ends outside of the mainstream can always add themselves or have a satisfied customer add them to the Monster List: http://www.dimabank.com/monster mjb. From tr6nut at verizon.net Sun Oct 18 12:17:07 2009 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 14:17:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: References: <777032.17552.qm@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <60966365703F4CA8B1E4264DCF70A5A3@paulal73q2sjay> Message-ID: <4ADB5BA3.6070708@verizon.net> Paul, Go to http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm From fishplate at charter.net Sun Oct 18 13:58:21 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 15:58:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: (SHNDAT) LBC 'Directory' idea? In-Reply-To: <4ADB5A24.1020503@bradakis.com> References: <73CA5050177A4D39860430B8C93EB15D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <5D73AD4E65674CA382DEC74EFF2CE4AC@John> <4ADB5A24.1020503@bradakis.com> Message-ID: At 02:10 PM 10/18/2009, Mark J Bradakis wrote: >Folks who supply various odds and ends outside of the mainstream >can always add themselves or have a satisfied customer add them >to the Monster List: > > http://www.dimabank.com/monster Or, if that doesn't work, try http://www.dimebank.com/monster/ From spitlist at cox.net Sun Oct 18 13:58:05 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 12:58:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: <8B1CBFE4DEDB42D6BFA80349F70E8061@paulal73q2sjay> References: <777032.17552.qm@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <60966365703F4CA8B1E4264DCF70A5A3@paulal73q2sjay> <8B1CBFE4DEDB42D6BFA80349F70E8061@paulal73q2sjay> Message-ID: <663726D71FFC4325943094D0C6447844@joepentiumnew> If the maximum is 1/2 amp, your reasonably large speaker wire should be sufficient. But I would highly recommend getting some Teflon insulated wire for the durability factor. Get something like 16 gauge just to be on the safe side. Joe -----Original Message----- From: Paul Willoughby [mailto:paulwillou at socal.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 10:58 AM To: Joe Curry; 'List Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? I've got two different chargers. They both list output as 12V, 500 mA. I don't have any idea what the speaker wire gauge is. I do have a pretty good idea that I don't want to burn down the garage with inadequate wire. [grin] paulw ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" > Find out what the maximum current is for the charger and then size the > wire > so that it will handle that current. If you don't know the current > capabilities of the various wire sizes, let me know the current and I will > tell you the minimum wire size required. > > Somehow, speaker wire seems inadequate. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Willoughby > Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 10:24 AM > To: List Triumph > Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? > > Will automotive speaker wire be sufficient to handle the current of the > inexpensive Harbor Freight automatic battery chargers? > > I'm going to install a quick disconnect in the grill so I don't have to > open > > the hood to connect the battery charger. I've got a roll of red and black > speaker wire that would make a nice clean installation. But after > stripping > > the insulation off, it doesn't seem like a lot of wire. But then I > imagine > that there isn't a lot of electricity in that little charger either. > > paulw > > 64 TR4 > 56 TR3 From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Oct 18 14:33:26 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 16:33:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: <8B1CBFE4DEDB42D6BFA80349F70E8061@paulal73q2sjay> Message-ID: <4ADB4356.419.1E2F98E4@localhost> On 18 Oct 2009 at 10:58, Paul Willoughby wrote: > I've got two different chargers. They both list output > as 12V, 500 mA. Hmmm. Just for reference... By normal audio this is only 4.2 watts, i.e. 0.5 amps * 12 volts * .707 rms factor. By home audio standards, this isn't much at all, especially for a subwoofer. High-end audio systems and live concert sound reinforcement systems use very thick speaker wire. But "car audio speaker wire" might mean something quite a bit smaller. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From piggerp at comcast.net Sun Oct 18 15:23:44 2009 From: piggerp at comcast.net (Spam Account) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 15:23:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <853B76584A0B49EAB1118201B6E63AAD@Porter> Hi List I've been having troubles with my front SU carburetor idling to fast. I've made sure there are no leaks and there is nothing hanging, but the carburetor reuses to go less then about 2000 RPM. I then plugged the hose from the intake manifold to the Crankcase Breather Valve and the RPM dropped sharply. I assume there is a lot of air getting through this system. How do I check the whole system to see if the breather valve is functioning? Can I get rid of it? Jeff Porter 67 TR4A From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Oct 18 15:42:36 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 16:42:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: <663726D71FFC4325943094D0C6447844@joepentiumnew> References: <777032.17552.qm@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <60966365703F4CA8B1E4264DCF70A5A3@paulal73q2sjay> Message-ID: Joe's last message implied it, but to be sure... 1 mA is 1/1000 of an amp, so 500mA is 1/2 amp. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Oct 18 16:11:05 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 18:11:05 EDT Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/18/2009 12:29:58 PM Central Daylight Time, paulwillou at socal.rr.com writes: > Will automotive speaker wire be sufficient to handle the current of the > inexpensive Harbor Freight automatic battery chargers? > > I'm going to install a quick disconnect in the grill so I don't have to > open > the hood to connect the battery charger. I've got a roll of red and black > > speaker wire that would make a nice clean installation. But after > stripping > the insulation off, it doesn't seem like a lot of wire. But then I > imagine > that there isn't a lot of electricity in that little charger either. > If you are talking about one of those 1/2 amp "Battery Tenders" then just about any speaker wire will suffice. The small end limit on speaker wire is about 20 or 22, much smaller and it gets too fragile for most hobbiests. This will carry 1/2 amp with ease. I've never cut into one of these "Tenders" but I'd bet a beer (and I'n not talking an Old Milwaukee or Coors light, but a good Old Speckled Hen ofr Belhaven Twisted Thistle) that it has an IC voltage regulator (LM317 or the like) with active current limit and will limit to 1/2 amp even if shorted. You'd have to be pretty clever to make one of these start a fire. Maybe if you used a blasting cap to make the connection. If you are using a larger unit (eg: 5 Amp) you would want to use larger speaker wire or 16 gauge zip cord from the hardware store. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Oct 18 16:13:54 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 18:13:54 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve Message-ID: In a message dated 10/18/2009 4:46:41 PM Central Daylight Time, piggerp at comcast.net writes: > I've been having troubles with my front SU carburetor idling to fast. > I've > made sure there are no leaks and there is nothing hanging, but the > carburetor reuses to go less then about 2000 RPM. I then plugged the hose > from the intake manifold to the Crankcase Breather Valve and the RPM > dropped > sharply. I assume there is a lot of air getting through this system. > How do I check the whole system to see if the breather valve is > functioning? > Can I get rid of it? > Make sure the valve is assembled correctly. I ran into this issue and the pin on the plate with the diaghram was not centered and was not regulating the air flow. Basicaly it was wide open. I put it back together correctly (not all that trivial) and the car tuned up just like it should. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 18 17:04:51 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 16:04:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20091018230451517.ISOQ12700@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> > I've never cut into one of these "Tenders" but I'd bet a beer > (and I'n not > talking an Old Milwaukee or Coors light, but a good Old > Speckled Hen ofr > Belhaven Twisted Thistle) Ok, Dave, you owe me a beer. (Good thing I don't care for it, I'll never collect ) > that it has an IC voltage regulator > (LM317 or the > like) with active current limit and will limit to 1/2 amp > even if shorted. They do current limit pretty effectively; but the limit is not in the regulator. Instead the "wall wart" transformer has such a high winding resistance that it just won't pass much current. If shorted for any appreciable length of time (like connected to a deeply discharged battery), the transformer burns out. > You'd have to be pretty clever to make one of these start a > fire. Nope, all it took was replacing the transformer with a somewhat beefier one (from an old Hayes modem), that would deliver maybe 4 or 5 amps into a short. Didn't actually catch fire, but got hot enough to melt the plastic case and char the label, before the pass transistor gave up the ghost. > If you are using a larger unit (eg: 5 Amp) you would want to > use larger > speaker wire or 16 gauge zip cord from the hardware store. Something to keep in mind; small wire also has a significant resistance, which may affect your charger if you use a long enough length of it. For example, 24 AWG has about .025 ohms per foot, so a 20' length (40' total) would drop about 0.5 volts @ 500 ma. That doesn't sound like much, but it's more than the difference between a fully charged battery and a 50% charged battery (according to the table at http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm ) BTW, Jim, this is DC, so no RMS correction needed. Randall From paulwillou at socal.rr.com Sun Oct 18 17:52:08 2009 From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 16:52:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? References: <20091018230451517.ISOQ12700@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <0570667FEC1D4E6EAB0DF9C69DADCBBF@paulal73q2sjay> I owe you all a beer! Thanks for the responses. I think I'll skip the speaker wire and go with something a little heavier. No sense skimping on such a low cost item. I'll just spray a little WD40 on the rusty old hinges of my wallet and blow some dust off a $10 bill. [grin] paulw ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 4:04 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? >> I've never cut into one of these "Tenders" but I'd bet a beer >> (and I'n not >> talking an Old Milwaukee or Coors light, but a good Old >> Speckled Hen ofr >> Belhaven Twisted Thistle) > > Ok, Dave, you owe me a beer. (Good thing I don't care for it, I'll never > collect ) > >> that it has an IC voltage regulator >> (LM317 or the >> like) with active current limit and will limit to 1/2 amp >> even if shorted. > > They do current limit pretty effectively; but the limit is not in the > regulator. Instead the "wall wart" transformer has such a high winding > resistance that it just won't pass much current. If shorted for any > appreciable length of time (like connected to a deeply discharged > battery), > the transformer burns out. > >> You'd have to be pretty clever to make one of these start a >> fire. > > Nope, all it took was replacing the transformer with a somewhat beefier > one > (from an old Hayes modem), that would deliver maybe 4 or 5 amps into a > short. Didn't actually catch fire, but got hot enough to melt the plastic > case and char the label, before the pass transistor gave up the ghost. > >> If you are using a larger unit (eg: 5 Amp) you would want to >> use larger >> speaker wire or 16 gauge zip cord from the hardware store. > > Something to keep in mind; small wire also has a significant resistance, > which may affect your charger if you use a long enough length of it. For > example, 24 AWG has about .025 ohms per foot, so a 20' length (40' total) > would drop about 0.5 volts @ 500 ma. That doesn't sound like much, but > it's > more than the difference between a fully charged battery and a 50% charged > battery (according to the table at > http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm > ) > > BTW, Jim, this is DC, so no RMS correction needed. > > Randall From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Oct 18 18:06:24 2009 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 20:06:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Just a quick followup on the stainless steel TR4A IRS radiator/fan shroud... Message-ID: Hi All, I found what I can almost use.. The stainless steel radiator shroud I had seen before is sold by GoodParts and unfortunately will not work on TR4/TR4A/TR-250's. I am months away from needing one and may just get one of the fiber board units that are available from state side vendors in the $35.00 range. If anyone finds any stainless steel shrouds, let me know. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From jimbpps at cox.net Sun Oct 18 20:09:47 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 19:09:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Just a quick followup on the stainless steel TR4A IRS radiator/fan shroud... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0937D0BE2DA64257A25CAB32DDCB97A6@JimofficePC> Dave, I ran across the same problem with using either ugly cardboard or nothing when I restored my TR250. I designed a shroud similar to the aluminum/stainless ones built for the TR6s, but I used commercially available ABS sheets, smooth on one side and 'textured' on the other. I made a cardboard pattern to lay out the sides using tabs towards the rear of the side pieces so I could bolt the sides to the radiator supports, then transferred the design to the ABS sheets and cut all the parts out with a table saw so I would have straight cuts, except the mounting tabs where I used a saber saw. I used 1' X 1' aluminum angle pieces at each top corner and pop rivited to each side. Then used Tinnerman nuts and some black Phillips pan head screws that I had, to assemble the top surface to the sides and to the leading edge above the grill opening. If you would like a picture, email me and I will send a couple so you can get a better idea of what it looks like. Regards, Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 5:06 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Just a quick followup on the stainless steel TR4A IRS radiator/fan shroud... Hi All, I found what I can almost use.. The stainless steel radiator shroud I had seen before is sold by GoodParts and unfortunately will not work on TR4/TR4A/TR-250's. I am months away from needing one and may just get one of the fiber board units that are available from state side vendors in the $35.00 range. If anyone finds any stainless steel shrouds, let me know. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Mon Oct 19 01:59:56 2009 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 00:59:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] plastic tranny covers In-Reply-To: <1442DCD7259B44568C61462C1F61A025@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <243055.80781.qm@web51309.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Threading up from the underside is ingenious! I purchased a poly tunnel years ago from TFR and it was rubbish, could have been a bad batch or perhaps it was stored in a high temperature area, it wasn't useable and trying to make it work made it unreturnable (I assume this as I didn't bother trying). I just installed the two piece, actually three piece fiberglass tunnel from Racetorations in the UK and apart from minor alignment tweaks on two bolt holes it went in perfectly. The gasket is fiddley no matter which tunnel you chose. One of the suppliers would do well to make a formed, pre-punched gasket. Steve CC25805 --- On Sat, 10/17/09, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Subject: Re: [TR] plastic tranny covers > To: jimmuller at rcn.com, Triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Saturday, October 17, 2009, 6:00 PM > Jim, > When I did my 5 speed conversion I went to the poly tunnel > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5SpeedInterior.htm) and > did a few things to > get a good fit. I drilled all the holes in the tunnel out > to 1/2" to give me > some bolt slop. I test fitted, punched out the holes and > notched the rubber > sealing strip so that it "flowed" with the shape of the > tunnel bottom. I > used some Ultra-black on the floor and pressed the strip > into it to better > seal and hold it in place. I did the same for the firewall > which is a PITA > to do so some guys skip it. What I wished I had done and > was suggested to my > by a TR6 buddy was to thread the tunnel bolts up from > underneath the car. > That way you have the bolt end sticking up and inch or so > which makes it > very easy to fit the tunnel to the bolt. I just used this > trick on my Miata > seats which made it much easier to catch the seat bracket. > I also covered > the tunnel with FatMat and carpet underlayment. The upside > is as very quiet > (relatively speaking) and cool interior. The downside is > that the added > thickness made it very difficult to get the dash support > back in place. I > don't remember who I got the tunnel from.......but it was > on sale at the > time! > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Jim Muller > Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 8:38 PM > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net; > Spitfire list > Subject: [TR] plastic tranny covers > > I have plastic tranny covers in both the Spitfire and > GT6. IIRC, they came > from different sources (Spitbits, TRF) but I may be > mistaken. As far as I > noticed they are the same. They've been in the cars > for more than a few > years. Neither fit particuarly well, okay but not > great for several > reasons. The GT6 cover is now slightly cracked in one > spot. And driving > through severe rain and puddles for the CCBCC British > Legends ride taught me > the value of having a better fit to the firewall! > > So I'm considering fitting another and doing it more > carefully. Any > thoughts or experiences with them? Is any vendor's > better than another or > are they all really the same from the same manufacturer? > > Tanks, > > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph > Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph > Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Oct 19 05:14:56 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 07:14:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: <20091018230451517.ISOQ12700@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> References: Message-ID: <4ADC11F0.27617.2624FDE@localhost> On 18 Oct 2009 at 16:04, Randall wrote: > BTW, Jim, this is DC, so no RMS correction needed. True enough, but ah, err... hey look, the Goodrich blimp! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 19 05:55:03 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 07:55:03 EDT Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/18/2009 6:34:09 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > > >You'd have to be pretty clever to make one of these start a > >fire. > > Nope, all it took was replacing the transformer with a somewhat beefier > one > (from an old Hayes modem), that would deliver maybe 4 or 5 amps into a > short. Didn't actually catch fire, but got hot enough to melt the plastic > case and char the label, before the pass transistor gave up the ghost. Ah, but you're changing the game. You modified the unit. That doesn't qualify as being clever, it is just plain cheating. ;-) But seriously, there are several types of "Battery Tenders." I have two, one from HF and one from Mouser. One unit is a simple wall wart that regulates (or seems to) at 14.25 volts. The other has a wall wart with a secondary box with a light. This unit regulates at 13.5 volts. The little box gets warm suggesting that there is a regulator located in there. This is the unit I got from Harbor Freight and assumed this is typical of what they carry. Maybe not. I also have a 6 A three stage charger from Guest that I can use for heavy duty recharging if that should become necessary. So I have no need for fabricating a Hayes model charger. Dave PS since I provided you dad a Gin Martini (stirred, not shaken) and you Mom a glass of wine at Triumphest, consider the debt paid. (Never mind that it was on the house). From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 19 06:05:06 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 08:05:06 EDT Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/18/2009 6:34:09 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Something to keep in mind; small wire also has a significant resistance, > which may affect your charger if you use a long enough length of it. For > example, 24 AWG has about .025 ohms per foot, so a 20' length (40' total) > would drop about 0.5 volts @ 500 ma. That doesn't sound like much, but > it's > more than the difference between a fully charged battery and a 50% charged > battery (according to the table at > http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm All that will do is slow down the rate of charging. As the battery approaches full charge the current will reduce and the drop in the line will reduce. A fully charged battery will draw little current and any current will exceed the self discharge rate. Besides, these are "Battery Tenders" intended to keep a charged battery charged. If you want to charge a discharged battery you need to use something else. In the industry parlance it is a "Float" charger. Powersonic has a good technical manual on batteries: http://www.power-sonic.com/index.php?id=42 Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 19 06:09:21 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 08:09:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/18/2009 7:19:03 PM Central Daylight Time, paulwillou at socal.rr.com writes: > I think I'll skip the speaker wire and go with something a little > heavier. > No sense skimping on such a low cost item. I'll just spray a little WD40 > on > the rusty old hinges of my wallet and blow some dust off a $10 bill. > [grin] > Is that one of those big bills with a picture of Cleveland? Dave (I checked my wallet and the bill said Continental Congress) From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 19 07:07:10 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 09:07:10 EDT Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/19/2009 6:35:29 AM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > True enough, but ah, err... hey look, the Goodrich blimp! > MY BABY'S ON THAT THING! Um, never mind. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 19 08:22:35 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 07:22:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20091019142235890.ZKFT16243@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > All that will do is slow down the rate of charging. True, I didn't mean to say otherwise. If it turns your 500 ma charger into a 50 ma charger, do you care? Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 19 08:40:11 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 07:40:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20091019144012329.YJPB12700@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> > I have two, > one from HF and one from Mouser. One unit is a simple wall wart that > regulates (or seems to) at 14.25 volts. The other has a wall > wart with a secondary > box with a light. This unit regulates at 13.5 volts. The > little box gets > warm suggesting that there is a regulator located in there. That's the unit I had as well (actually I bought two of them while they were on sale). http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42292 > I also have a 6 A three stage charger from Guest that I can > use for heavy > duty recharging if that should become necessary. So I have > no need for > fabricating a Hayes model charger. Good for you. The battery I was trying to charge had problems of some sort, and would get hot with a conventional charger. I was curious to see what would happen if it were trickle charged for several months. Bad idea obviously, but somehow I missed the warning saying that the battery "charger" (HF's word) could not be used for charging batteries. Anyway, my point was just that their regulator does not include a current limit. I agree it would be tough to accidentally start a fire with one of these. Oh, and on behalf of my folks, thanks for the drinks. Debt paid in full Randall From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Oct 19 10:08:11 2009 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 09:08:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve Message-ID: <174540.75221.qm@web51604.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Subject: [TR]TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve To: Hi List I've been having troubles with my front SU carburetor idling to fast. I've made sure there are no leaks and there is nothing hanging, but the carburetor reuses to go less then about 2000 RPM. I then plugged the hose from the intake manifold to the Crankcase Breather Valve and the RPM dropped sharply. I assume there is a lot of air getting through this system. How do I check the whole system to see if the breather valve is functioning? Can I get rid of it? Jeff Porter 67 TR4A ---------- Hi Jeff! Yes you can get rid of it. BUT!, that means you will have to change the breathing system from a close to an open breathing system. Basically from a TR4 to a TR3 engine's breathing system, in a nut shell. You might be interested in asking Blake J. Discher to send you a copy of my TR4 & TR4A E-mail Manual' that I have sent to him on a CD. -Cosmo Kramer From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Oct 19 11:15:35 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:15:35 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] today's clutch issue Message-ID: <20091019131535.CUE93401@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Aaargh. No, it isn't talk-like-a-pirate day. We had a cold, windy, and very wet weekend, much rain and slush falling from the sky yesterday, moisture condensing on everything, sub-freezing temps last night. This morning I got into the GT6 to drive to work and the clutch pedal seemed stiffer than normal. Shifted into reverse to exit the driveway and the engagement point was higher than expected. Decided to take the van, shifted into first to return up the driveway, but now the clutch won't engage at all. Got out, killed engine, set handbrake, noticed that of course putting the tranny into gear doesn't stop the car from rolling. Cracked open the nut holding the clutch line to the MC, caught the escaping fluif. Started engine and tried 1st again, again no clutch. Sharon and I pushed the car back up the driveway, I set the handbrake and chocked the wheels, took the van to work. It would seem that the slave cylinder is sticking. I conjecture that it is caused by the combination of moisture and cold. But that's just a guess. The fluif is new. Fortunately one can deal with clutch hardware without disassembling half the car. Have any of you experienced anything like this before? -- Jim Muller From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 19 11:40:44 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:40:44 EDT Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/19/2009 9:40:54 AM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > True, I didn't mean to say otherwise. If it turns your 500 ma charger > into > a 50 ma charger, do you care? > Not if I'm going to leave it for a month or so. 50 mA x 30 days x 24 hours = 36A-H. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 19 11:49:17 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:49:17 EDT Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/19/2009 9:55:05 AM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Good for you. The battery I was trying to charge had problems of some > sort, > and would get hot with a conventional charger. I was curious to see what > would happen if it were trickle charged for several months. Bad idea > obviously, but somehow I missed the warning saying that the battery > "charger" (HF's word) could not be used for charging batteries. > Some of the new "intelligent" chargers have a de-sulfation mode that will recover batteries that have been over-discharged. From what I gather from some cursory reading is that it pulses the battery at full current at some duty cycle designed to prevent overheating. One company I looked at has thermistors that monitor the battery voltage. Another solution to prevent battery overheating. But this mode has not been adopted as yet by most charger manufacturers. And cost still prevails so fewer features at lest cost still commands the market. But I'm no battery charger expert. Dave From spitlist at cox.net Mon Oct 19 12:08:18 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 11:08:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] today's clutch issue In-Reply-To: <20091019131535.CUE93401@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20091019131535.CUE93401@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <92D1975C9F75482FBC5D70D72D5E6FE8@joepentiumnew> Jim, You need to move down to Arizona, where this is no moisture nor cold to interfere with clutch operation! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com Sent: Monday, October 19, 2009 10:16 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] today's clutch issue Aaargh. No, it isn't talk-like-a-pirate day. We had a cold, windy, and very wet weekend, much rain and slush falling from the sky yesterday, moisture condensing on everything, sub-freezing temps last night. This morning I got into the GT6 to drive to work and the clutch pedal seemed stiffer than normal. Shifted into reverse to exit the driveway and the engagement point was higher than expected. Decided to take the van, shifted into first to return up the driveway, but now the clutch won't engage at all. Got out, killed engine, set handbrake, noticed that of course putting the tranny into gear doesn't stop the car from rolling. Cracked open the nut holding the clutch line to the MC, caught the escaping fluif. Started engine and tried 1st again, again no clutch. Sharon and I pushed the car back up the driveway, I set the handbrake and chocked the wheels, took the van to work. It would seem that the slave cylinder is sticking. I conjecture that it is caused by the combination of moisture and cold. But that's just a guess. The fluif is new. Fortunately one can deal with clutch hardware without disassembling half the car. Have any of you experienced anything like this before? -- Jim Muller This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 19 12:41:31 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 11:41:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0327BB2D158E44B0BD78E2BF89FD2AE1@jdnet.deere.com> > Some of the new "intelligent" chargers have a de-sulfation > mode that will recover batteries that have been > over-discharged. From what I gather from some cursory > reading is that it pulses the battery at full current at some > duty cycle designed to prevent overheating. The pulses aren't particularly high current, but are rather high voltage and very short. Normally, a sulfated battery won't take any current at all at normal charging voltage. Sometimes you can desulfate a car battery by just applying a high enough DC voltage to pass a little bit of current, and limiting the voltage/current. But the spikes supposedly work better, and will supposedly even improve a working battery. See for example the description at http://www3.telus.net/sail/sj23/e_electrical_tips/e04.html I've thought about building one of my own, but haven't stumbled across that particular round tuit yet. > But I'm no battery charger expert. Me neither, I just like to dabble in things. Sometimes my fingers get burned. -- Randall From mgodley at tiac.net Mon Oct 19 13:11:34 2009 From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 15:11:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2BED4B233DDF4EC2B4FA24474078689F@MichaelPC> " I've been having troubles with my front SU carburetor idling to fast. I've made sure there are no leaks and there is nothing hanging, but the carburetor reuses to go less then about 2000 RPM. I then plugged the hose from the intake manifold to the Crankcase Breather Valve and the RPM dropped sharply. I assume there is a lot of air getting through this system. How do I checked the whole system to see if the breather valve is functioning? Can I get rid of it?" _________ I took of the breather valve after having the same problems and used a small inexpensive K&N Filter designed for crankcase breathers. No increase in oil leaks, and assume this is doing a reasonable job of eliminated crankcase pressure. Believe a TR4 style crankcase vent tube would have better venting, and long term I am going to do this in conjunction with an oil separator or similar vent filter....but this works and looks OK and I was able to set a nice smooth idle at 800 RPM . Check out the Rubber Base Crankcase Vent Filters at the following link http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm Michael Godley 65TR4A mgodley at tiac.net From jerrann at shaw.ca Mon Oct 19 14:18:45 2009 From: jerrann at shaw.ca (Jerry Goulet) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:18:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? Message-ID: <7vpiof$5d80ep@pd6mo1no-svcs.prod.shaw.ca> From: Dave1massey at cs.com "Not if I'm going to leave it for a month or so. 50 mA x 30 days x 24 hours = 36A-H." Dave Your math is correct, but what does the result signify ? Cheers, Jerry Goulet From agraham at execulink.com Mon Oct 19 14:26:26 2009 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 16:26:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 10" brakes Message-ID: <200910192026.n9JKQE4N021087@smtp2.execulink.net> Hello List: Need a little guidance with trying to piece together 10" rear brakes (Girling axle). Can't seem to find any reference photos or details on these brakes. They are the brakes without the spring/pin hold down through the shoes. They have the felt tipped peg that the shoes rest against and is used to adjust the shoes. Do the brake return springs go behind or in front of the shoes? The shoes have a square 3/4" hole at one end. Does the hole go at the adjuster end or cylinder end? Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 19 15:23:08 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:23:08 EDT Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/19/2009 1:51:09 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > The pulses aren't particularly high current, but are rather high voltage > and > very short. Normally, a sulfated battery won't take any current at all at > normal charging voltage. Sometimes you can desulfate a car battery by > just > applying a high enough DC voltage to pass a little bit of current, and > limiting the voltage/current. But the spikes supposedly work better, and > will supposedly even improve a working battery. > > See for example the description at > http://www3.telus.net/sail/sj23/e_electrical_tips/e04.html > This is a good description of the behavior of deep cycle batteries. Another phenomenon common to cranking batteries is that of plate erosion. Car batteries are optimized for Cold Cranking Amps. Typical Specmanship. CCR is highly touted in battery advertising to the point of ridiculous. To get that kind of cranking capability the plate area is maximized at the expense of plate thickness. The plates are thinned to the point that a fiberglass mat is used to support it. If a battery is discharged enough the lead is completely removed from areas of the glass mat and recharging will not redeposit the lead where there is no plate anymore. Modern cars are typically equipped with charging systems that will keep up with all but the very worst case electrical load at all engine speeds. Our cars were not so equipped and relied on the battery to subsidize the charging system during engine idle periods. This was fine when batteries typically would tolerate this but today's batteries are more susceptible to over discharging. The result is reduced current capabilities. But the Cranking capabilities of batteries is so high that even when degraded but 60 - 70% they still start our cars. So there is a compensation action taking place. Good thing we overcompensate on battery size. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 19 15:35:24 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:35:24 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 10" brakes Message-ID: In a message dated 10/19/2009 3:50:27 PM Central Daylight Time, agraham at execulink.com writes: > Need a little guidance with trying to piece together 10" rear brakes > (Girling axle). Can't seem to find any reference photos or details on > these brakes. They are the brakes without the spring/pin hold down > through the shoes. They have the felt tipped peg that the shoes rest > against and is used to adjust the shoes. > Do the brake return springs go behind or in front of the shoes? > The shoes have a square 3/4" hole at one end. Does the hole go at the > adjuster end or cylinder end? > Thanks for any help with this. > It's been quite a few months since I put my brakes together but with no hold down springs the return springs must go behind the shoes to keep the pressure on the felt tipped hold off pins else they would rub the brake drums. I don't recall the orientation of the square holes. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 19 15:53:14 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 14:53:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 10" brakes In-Reply-To: <200910192026.n9JKQE4N021087@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: <20091019215315613.XVII3542@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> Hmm, thought I had a photo of them, but can't find it at the moment. > Do the brake return springs go behind or in front of the shoes? Behind. The one with the straight section in the middle goes next to the slave cylinder. > The shoes have a square 3/4" hole at one end. Does the hole go at the > adjuster end or cylinder end? Yes. (Sorry, couldn't resist) One of the square holes goes next to the slave piston (the handbrake lever engages the hole). The other shoe goes in the same orientation (not reversed), so it's square hole goes next to the adjuster (and doesn't do anything). At least that's the way mine are put together. Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Oct 19 16:56:08 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 22:56:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] today's clutch issue In-Reply-To: <20091019131535.CUE93401@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <1125800055.7040921255992968952.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >It would seem that the slave cylinder is sticking. B I conjecture that it is caused by the combination of moisture and cold. B But that's just a guess. B The fluif is new. B Fortunately >one can deal with clutch hardware without disassembling half the car. Just curious, Jim.B Is it possible the slave cylinder was on the edge of failure, exacerbated by the tight tolerances of freezing weather? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hamsphire From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Oct 19 18:29:04 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:29:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] wax on wax off Message-ID: <703149.17567.qm@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Just finished waxing my car and its the first time i've used Mequires. Went on well but it didn't seem to dry like waxs i've used before. Didn't dry to a powder like others i've used in the past. I went ahead and buffed it off by hand although it was tough to get it off to my satisfaction. There seemed to be a greasy film that was tough to get off. Using clean fresh towels helped. I let it dry for at least 2-3 hours. It's fall here in Iowa but got up between 55-60 degrees today.........maybe thats too cool? Is this normal for Mequires? It could be that in the morning another buffing will clean it all up. Living in a small town it also could be that the wax i purchased has been sitting on the shelf for who knows how long. just wondering! gary n. From mathews at uga.edu Mon Oct 19 18:35:37 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 20:35:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Off topic...electric motor speed Message-ID: <4ADD05D9.70505@uga.edu> Folks, Anyone enlighten me on what determines the speed of an unloaded electric motor? House current and or 12v auto? Thanks. Doug From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 19 19:22:05 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 18:22:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Off topic...electric motor speed In-Reply-To: <4ADD05D9.70505@uga.edu> Message-ID: <20091020012206558.QRVQ12118@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > Anyone enlighten me on what determines the speed of an > unloaded electric > motor? House current and or 12v auto? Depends on the motor type. Most brushless AC motors run slightly below synchronous speed, with how much below determined by their load; so they don't change much when unloaded. Most AC motors with brushes and many DC motors are series-wound, which have basically no inherent top speed, their maximum speed is determined only by when the output of the motor matches the bearing drag and/or wind resistance of the armature. Parallel-wound and permanent magnet DC motors have an inherent top speed (for a given voltage) determined by the motor design ... basically they act like generators and oppose the applied voltage until the armature current drops to nearly zero. Randall From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Mon Oct 19 19:51:14 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 20:51:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: <7vpiof$5d80ep@pd6mo1no-svcs.prod.shaw.ca> References: <7vpiof$5d80ep@pd6mo1no-svcs.prod.shaw.ca> Message-ID: I just paid our electical bill and the current rate was 32.7 cents per KWh. That would make the cost of charging for the month about 14 cents. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: jerrann at shaw.ca > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:18:45 -0700 > Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? > > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > > "Not if I'm going to leave it for a month or so. 50 mA x 30 days x 24 hours > > = 36A-H." Dave > > Your math is correct, but what does the result signify ? > > Cheers, Jerry Goulet > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Oct 19 20:07:23 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 22:07:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Re-Tapping Threads Message-ID: Can you re-tap threads using a smaller threads per inch tape? I have a screw hole that is a size #6 with 36 thread and I can only get a #6 screw with 32 thread screw. Can I tap the 36 thread hole with a 32 tap and use the 32 thread screw without messing up the threads? Hope this is clear.... Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Mon Oct 19 20:35:57 2009 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 19:35:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics Message-ID: <000001ca512e$0e18c410$2a4a4c30$@rr.com> Does your Triumph have a harmonic? What I mean by that is . is there a rpm that your car seems to get quiet? Where it just seems to hum along. The muffler resonates right, the engine purrs, the drive train is in total balance? Mine gets "in balance" around 4000 rpm. So what causes this? Can I tune it? Where do I start? Will this get expensive? Johnnie '67 TR4A From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Oct 19 21:01:43 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 23:01:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics In-Reply-To: <000001ca512e$0e18c410$2a4a4c30$@rr.com> References: <000001ca512e$0e18c410$2a4a4c30$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CC1F48C9C0D250-4660-DC24@webmail-d053.sysops.aol.com> Yep, though I have never really tracked what that rpm is. My car is actually a little quieter with the OD off then with it on.... -----Original Message----- From: John & Pat Donnelly To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Oct 19, 2009 10:35 pm Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics Does your Triumph have a harmonic? What I mean by that is . is there a rpm that your car seems to get quiet? Where it just seems to hum along. The muffler resonates right, the engine purrs, the drive train is in total balance? Mine gets "in balance" around 4000 rpm. So what causes this? Can I tune it? Where do I start? Will this get expensive? Johnnie '67 TR4A This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Oct 19 21:03:51 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 23:03:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] wax on wax off In-Reply-To: <703149.17567.qm@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <703149.17567.qm@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3D417DC7EC3A4A7DBF8E575D276CBF86@BOBSNEWPC> Gary........two things come to mind. There are more and more waxes that are removed before they dry but that's always stated in the directions. If they dry, they are very difficult to remove. The other is that humidity plans a big role in what happens when you wax your car. If it's too humid the wax just seems to "roll around" as you try to remove it. We've all been waxing our cars for many many years and think we know what we're doing, but what do the directions say? I know they've fooled me a few times so I'm back to reading them. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Monday, October 19, 2009 8:29 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] wax on wax off Just finished waxing my car and its the first time i've used Mequires. Went on well but it didn't seem to dry like waxs i've used before. Didn't dry to a powder like others i've used in the past. I went ahead and buffed it off by hand although it was tough to get it off to my satisfaction. There seemed to be a greasy film that was tough to get off. Using clean fresh towels helped. I let it dry for at least 2-3 hours. It's fall here in Iowa but got up between 55-60 degrees today.........maybe thats too cool? Is this normal for Mequires? It could be that in the morning another buffing will clean it all up. Living in a small town it also could be that the wax i purchased has been sitting on the shelf for who knows how long. just wondering! gary n. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Mon Oct 19 21:19:17 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 03:19:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Re-Tapping Threads In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1843201950.6101681256008757595.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> No, you can't do that. You will lose all the strength in the hole. You need to use a larger screw, or drill out the hole for a threaded insert. I'd try harder to get the correct bolt. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Scott Suhring" wrote: > From: "Scott Suhring" > To: "Triumph Mail List" > Sent: Monday, October 19, 2009 9:07:23 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] Re-Tapping Threads > > Can you re-tap threads using a smaller threads per inch tape? I have a > screw > hole that is a size #6 with 36 thread and I can only get a #6 screw > with 32 > thread screw. Can I tap the 36 thread hole with a 32 tap and use the > 32 > thread screw without messing up the threads? Hope this is clear.... > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Oct 19 21:28:04 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 20:28:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels Message-ID: <270476.29133.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am getting ready for new tires on my TR6. When balancing the wheels, does anyone leave the trim rings on. They aren't really symmetrical, having the hole on one side for the valve stem for filling tires. Does it make a difference? Bill in Tehachapi From FordneyNJ at aol.com Mon Oct 19 22:38:44 2009 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 00:38:44 EDT Subject: [TR] Re-tapping Message-ID: Scott, Enco has 6-36 tap listed. _http://www.use-enco.com_ (http://www.use-enco.com) NFI Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ President, Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS CTC 60536 L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 22:07:23 -0400 From: "Scott Suhring" Subject: [TR] Re-Tapping Threads To: "Triumph Mail List" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Can you re-tap threads using a smaller threads per inch tape? I have a screw hole that is a size #6 with 36 thread and I can only get a #6 screw with 32 thread screw. Can I tap the 36 thread hole with a 32 tap and use the 32 thread screw without messing up the threads? Hope this is clear.... Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 20 05:48:08 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 07:48:08 EDT Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/19/2009 9:18:16 PM Central Daylight Time, rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: > I just paid our electical bill and the current rate was 32.7 cents per > KWh. > > That would make the cost of charging for the month about 14 cents. > Oh, break the bank! After year you spent enough to buy, lets see, about half a gallon of Gas. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 20 05:56:52 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 07:56:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels Message-ID: In a message dated 10/19/2009 10:50:07 PM Central Daylight Time, wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: > I am getting ready for new tires on my TR6. When balancing the wheels, > does anyone leave the trim rings on. They aren't really symmetrical, > having > the hole on one side for the valve stem for filling tires. Does it make a > difference? Maybe. I've never done it and the wheels get balanced pretty well but perhaps balancing with the rims on will make a subtle difference. Talking the guy at the tire store into doing it may be the hard part. Of course the best way is to balance with the wheels on the car. This will compensate for imbalances in the other rotating parts, too. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 20 06:20:21 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 08:20:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Re-Tapping Threads Message-ID: In a message dated 10/19/2009 9:34:44 PM Central Daylight Time, suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes: > Can you re-tap threads using a smaller threads per inch tape? I have a > screw > hole that is a size #6 with 36 thread and I can only get a #6 screw with > 32 > thread screw. Can I tap the 36 thread hole with a 32 tap and use the 32 > thread screw without messing up the threads? Hope this is clear.... > Are you sure they are not metric? Have you tried an M4 with a .7 pitch? Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 20 06:25:54 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 08:25:54 EDT Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics Message-ID: In a message dated 10/19/2009 9:56:11 PM Central Daylight Time, pdonnel1 at san.rr.com writes: > Does your Triumph have a harmonic? What I mean by that is . is there a > rpm > that your car seems to get quiet? Where it just seems to hum along. The > muffler resonates right, the engine purrs, the drive train is in total > balance? Mine gets "in balance" around 4000 rpm. > Car companies spend millions turning out resonance's in modern autos. But I think most of the racket comes from the exhaust system. The Falcon system on my TR6 is particularly bad. I don't think it is so much the noise coming out of the pipe as it is the walls of the muffler vibrating. The mild steel mufflers are made with heavier gauge steel and don't resonate as much but the Falcon designers decided that since Stainless doesn't rust they can get away with thinner material. They were right and the muffler has lasted 13 years but the down side is I will probably replace it for other reasons. But that is a round tuit yet to be got. Dave From pethier at comcast.net Tue Oct 20 07:36:49 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:36:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <567378383.6189361256045809174.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > Of course the best way is to balance with the wheels on the car. This > will > compensate for imbalances in the other rotating parts, too. Only if you never remove the wheel. I'd rather be able to rotate the tires. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From pethier at comcast.net Tue Oct 20 09:24:40 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 15:24:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics In-Reply-To: <89994909.6240701256052262449.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1940609621.6240901256052280135.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > Car companies spend millions tuning out resonances in modern autos. > But > I think most of the racket comes from the exhaust system. The Falcon > system > on my TR6 is particularly bad. I don't think it is so much the noise > coming out of the pipe as it is the walls of the muffler vibrating. > The mild > steel mufflers are made with heavier gauge steel and don't resonate as > much but > the Falcon designers decided that since Stainless doesn't rust they > can get > away with thinner material. They were right and the muffler has > lasted 13 > years but the down side is I will probably replace it for other > reasons. > But that is a round tuit yet to be got. > Dave I have heard from several sources that the Bell stainless systems are superior in quality and fit to the Falcon. The TransAmeriCan Stag used a Bell system, and I was pleased with its sound when I rode in and drove it. Don't recall any annoying resonances, but my memory was never any good. You may have noticed at Triumphest that TR44SUE is louder than your bagpipes. Sue is getting tired of setting off car alarms with the glass-pack system that Chris Murphy commissioned at the Midas shop in San Antonio. A Bell system may be in its future. Anybody know the best way to buy one in the USA? Meanwhile, how goes the battle to either move your Triumph home or secure it in Colorado for the winter? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From mmarr at notwires.com Tue Oct 20 09:42:58 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 10:42:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Re-Tapping Threads References: Message-ID: <30D3600B213943EBA862A18B557FAF85@trigeni.com> 6-36 is not a standard screw size, so I would agree with Dave on this one. Where is the tapped hole in question? Mike >> > Are you sure they are not metric? Have you tried an M4 with a .7 pitch? > > Dave > _______________________________________________ From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 20 10:33:28 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 12:33:28 EDT Subject: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels Message-ID: In a message dated 10/20/2009 8:37:00 AM Central Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > >Of course the best way is to balance with the wheels on the car. This > >will > >compensate for imbalances in the other rotating parts, too. > > Only if you never remove the wheel. > > I'd rather be able to rotate the tires. > What's stopping you? Just rotate and go back for a rebalance. Yes, it's a pain but if you want the ultimate in a smooth ride that's what you do. On the other hand Smooth Ride and Triumph don't necessarily fit together. Dave From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Oct 20 10:40:19 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 12:40:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm not sure "quite" is the word to describe it but car and driver are pretty happy and the engine has a nice purr to it right around 6000 rpm :) Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 20 10:46:36 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 12:46:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics Message-ID: In a message dated 10/20/2009 10:24:52 AM Central Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > Meanwhile, how goes the battle to either move your Triumph home or secure > it in Colorado for the winter? > After a week or more of no response from various haulers I made arrangements with a local company. The storage bill was mounting. I gotta get it back home and remove my Panasports, stereo, cruise control and new seats before the insurance company tries to seize it. I doubt I can get away with removing the new top. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 20 10:51:16 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 12:51:16 EDT Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics Message-ID: In a message dated 10/20/2009 11:40:32 AM Central Daylight Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: > I'm not sure "quite" is the word to describe it but car and driver are > pretty happy and the engine has a nice purr to it right around 6000 rpm :) > The problem is it is like bagpipes, they sound neat for a while but then it starts to get annoying. ;-) Dave From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Oct 20 10:58:30 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 11:58:30 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics Message-ID: <216575843.531602.1256057910442.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net> From supertr6 at earthlink.net Tue Oct 20 11:36:06 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:36:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4ADDF506.7010102@earthlink.net> Every TR6 I've owned have shimmied at around 62 MPH. The only time they haven't is when I've had the tires balanced on the car. The problem is, I can't find anyone who does that anymore! If anyone knows of someone around the Space Coast... Or, of course, has the machine to sell cheap! Joe Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 10/20/2009 8:37:00 AM Central Daylight Time, > pethier at comcast.net writes: > >>> Of course the best way is to balance with the wheels on the car. This >>> will >>> compensate for imbalances in the other rotating parts, too. >>> >> Only if you never remove the wheel. >> >> I'd rather be able to rotate the tires. >> >> > What's stopping you? Just rotate and go back for a rebalance. > > Yes, it's a pain but if you want the ultimate in a smooth ride that's what > you do. > > On the other hand Smooth Ride and Triumph don't necessarily fit together. > > Dave > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Oct 20 11:47:14 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:47:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ooooops, I ment the OTHER quiet:) Marty > From: trmarty at hotmail.com > To: dave1massey at cs.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 12:40:19 -0400 > Subject: Re: [TR] Car Harmonics > > I'm not sure "quite" is the word to describe it but car and driver are pretty > happy and the engine has a nice purr to it right around 6000 rpm :) > > > Marty > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/ From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Tue Oct 20 11:57:28 2009 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 11:57:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4ADDFA08.1030306@triumphstagclub.org> So Dave, Where is your car in Colorado? I happen to live in that state ... Problem is, the TTA Stag is currently on my lift in the garage, my Green Stag under it, but there is room next to my garage to put another Triumph under a car cover for a while ... Besides, Phil is chomping at the bit for the TTA Stag to go on the auction block ... -- Glenn Merrell TSN Admin http://www.triumphstag.net mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 10/20/2009 10:24:52 AM Central Daylight Time, > pethier at comcast.net writes: > >> Meanwhile, how goes the battle to either move your Triumph home or secure >> it in Colorado for the winter? >> >> > After a week or more of no response from various haulers I made > arrangements with a local company. The storage bill was mounting. > > I gotta get it back home and remove my Panasports, stereo, cruise control > and new seats before the insurance company tries to seize it. I doubt I can > get away with removing the new top. > > Dave From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Oct 20 12:06:58 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:06:58 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics Message-ID: <869190144.691647.1256062018935.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> On Oct 20, 2009, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: Dave, I have the Bell stainless system on my 1972 Triumph TR6.B It sounds exactly like the original exhaust, and the folks that installed it for me at a local British car shop said it was the easiest and best fitting system they had ever installed. There is a distributor down in Texas that sells them, I see one on Ebay once in a while. I have had no issues with it, and it looks like it day the day I took it out of the box. Hope this helps. Craig Nicholls Vienna, VA On Oct 20, 2009, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > Car companies spend millions tuning out resonances in modern autos. > But > I think most of the racket comes from the exhaust system. The Falcon > system > on my TR6 is particularly bad. I don't think it is so much the noise > coming out of the pipe as it is the walls of the muffler vibrating. > The mild > steel mufflers are made with heavier gauge steel and don't resonate as > much but > the Falcon designers decided that since Stainless doesn't rust they > can get > away with thinner material. They were right and the muffler has > lasted 13 > years but the down side is I will probably replace it for other > reasons. > But that is a round tuit yet to be got. > Dave I have heard from several sources that the Bell stainless systems are superior in quality and fit to the Falcon. The TransAmeriCan Stag used a Bell system, and I was pleased with its sound when I rode in and drove it. Don't recall any annoying resonances, but my memory was never any good. You may have noticed at Triumphest that TR44SUE is louder than your bagpipes. Sue is getting tired of setting off car alarms with the glass-pack system that Chris Murphy commissioned at the Midas shop in San Antonio. A Bell system may be in its future. Anybody know the best way to buy one in the USA? Meanwhile, how goes the battle to either move your Triumph home or secure it in Colorado for the winter? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Oct 20 12:08:22 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:08:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels References: <4ADDF506.7010102@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I don't think the basic equipment is expensive - many gas stations used to have on-car spin balancing setups years ago because they were cheaper. It's a portable motor/roller assembly (looks kinda like a floor jack) to spin the non-drive wheels (the driven wheels are usually just turned by the engine) and a balancer that clamps into the wheel. Not nearly as extensive as the off-car spin-balancers. Karl > Every TR6 I've owned have shimmied at around 62 MPH. The only time they > haven't is when I've had the tires balanced on the car. The problem is, > I can't find anyone who does that anymore! If anyone knows of someone > around the Space Coast... > > Or, of course, has the machine to sell cheap! > > Joe From tr4zest at gmail.com Tue Oct 20 12:45:31 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 14:45:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics In-Reply-To: <1940609621.6240901256052280135.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <89994909.6240701256052262449.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1940609621.6240901256052280135.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Phil: try here: http://www.britishcarpartsco.com/B.C.P.%20Product%202.htm They supply Bell and ANSA muffler systems for the TR6 - and the Falcon - so they may be able to compare performance / user experience? Brian On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 11:24 AM, wrote: > > Car companies spend millions tuning out resonances in modern autos. > > But > > I think most of the racket comes from the exhaust system. The Falcon > > system > > on my TR6 is particularly bad. I don't think it is so much the noise > > coming out of the pipe as it is the walls of the muffler vibrating. > > The mild > > steel mufflers are made with heavier gauge steel and don't resonate as > > much but > > the Falcon designers decided that since Stainless doesn't rust they > > can get > > away with thinner material. They were right and the muffler has > > lasted 13 > > years but the down side is I will probably replace it for other > > reasons. > > But that is a round tuit yet to be got. > > Dave > > I have heard from several sources that the Bell stainless systems are > superior in quality and fit to the Falcon. The TransAmeriCan Stag used a > Bell system, and I was pleased with its sound when I rode in and drove it. > Don't recall any annoying resonances, but my memory was never any good. > > You may have noticed at Triumphest that TR44SUE is louder than your > bagpipes. Sue is getting tired of setting off car alarms with the glass-pack > system that Chris Murphy commissioned at the Midas shop in San Antonio. A > Bell system may be in its future. Anybody know the best way to buy one in > the USA? > > Meanwhile, how goes the battle to either move your Triumph home or secure > it in Colorado for the winter? > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Oct 20 12:53:46 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 14:53:46 EDT Subject: [TR] wax on wax off Message-ID: Gary, With the recent change in the weather here (milder and no rain), I just finished waxing our Camry and once again I noticed the same thing that you did. I used Meguiar's Next Generation (NXT) Tech Wax 2.0 liquid. I say "once again" because I used it on the TR6 in the spring and it reacted the same way. This is supposed to be their "latest & greatest" product so I called Meguiar's and asked why it was smearing. They said that that was normal as the agents that give the finish it's final gloss, protection, etc. sometimes need time to settle in......hmmm. The wax applies easily and seems to last a reasonable amount of time and the greasy (smeary) finish will go away after a wash or two but it seems a bit odd to me.....and this stuff isn't cheap! So, maybe next year, I'll try someone else's product... Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 10/19/2009 8:51:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: Just finished waxing my car and its the first time i've used Mequires. Went on well but it didn't seem to dry like waxs i've used before. Didn't dry to a powder like others i've used in the past. I went ahead and buffed it off by hand although it was tough to get it off to my satisfaction. There seemed to be a greasy film that was tough to get off. Using clean fresh towels helped. I let it dry for at least 2-3 hours. It's fall here in Iowa but got up between 55-60 degrees today.........maybe thats too cool? Is this normal for Mequires? It could be that in the morning another buffing will clean it all up. Living in a small town it also could be that the wax i purchased has been sitting on the shelf for who knows how long. just wondering! gary n. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From jim.holmgren at corp.aol.com Tue Oct 20 13:36:37 2009 From: jim.holmgren at corp.aol.com (Holmgren, Jim) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 15:36:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] wax on wax off In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7E80337D35F4954BAAE76DAF1CBDB4A0026F0314@EVSDTC01.ad.office.aol.com> Chip, I used NXT on my Spit this spring and noticed the exact same thing. It was 'easier' to remove physically, but it definitely did not behave like a regular paste wax with the smearing. I was going nuts trying to buff it all out! This was the first liquid wax I'd ever used, so I didn't know what to expect. However, once the film 'settled in' or whatever it is supposed to do, the results were very satisfactory and it did seem to last longer than any paste waxes I've used. Next spring when the weather warms up, I'm going to put on a coat of their good ole' Gold Class paste wax and compare the two. I didn't like putting all that 'elbow grease' into the job with the NXT and not getting the results I expected until a couple of days later. I want to stand back and admire the finish...NOW..not after it 'settles in' !!! :-) Jim NASS #302 NASS Club Secretary '75 Spitfire 1500 w/OD www.littlebluespitfire.com York, PA ------------ The wax applies easily and seems to last a reasonable amount of time and the greasy (smeary) finish will go away after a wash or two but it seems a bit odd to me.....and this stuff isn't cheap! So, maybe next year, I'll try someone else's product... From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 20 14:02:33 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 15:02:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] wax on wax off References: Message-ID: knowing how personal a wax choice is, i'll just mention that i really like zymol From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 20 14:16:44 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:16:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <4ADDF506.7010102@earthlink.net> References: <4ADDF506.7010102@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <23D7685C1E9649148FD76E40AF3EC956@jdnet.deere.com> > Every TR6 I've owned have shimmied at around 62 MPH. The > only time they haven't is when I've had the tires balanced on > the car. That sounds like exactly the problem I have been looking at recently. When I went to service the front brakes on TS13571L, I noticed that the hub/rotor assemblies were badly enough out of balance that they would turn by themselves. Didn't have time to investigate, so I swapped in the hubs from the wrecked TR3A and went to TRfest. The lug nuts on the LF came loose twice, once on the way to SLO and once during the Fun Rallye; so I determined to investigate further when I got home. Using an old spindle & vertical link clamped in the bench vise, I have verified that 3 different hub/rotor assemblies are out of balance enough to turn by themselves. The problem appears to be mostly in the brake rotors, as one of the hubs would not turn at all and another would only barely turn, without the rotors mounted. And both times, the heavy spot was on a different side than with the rotor mounted. I also tried spinning them up to speed (unfortunately no way to measure what speed), and noted that they shook my entire workbench hard enough that things started to dance off the top. The two original hubs (one from TS13571L, other from TS39781LO) also had significant runout at the hub face. The third hub has much less wear apparent, and may actually be unused. It came from a complete TR4 front suspension I bought from a shop many years ago; apparently unclaimed after being rebuilt. It only had about .002" TIR runout on the hub face, and .004" at the brake disc, which is passable. The assembly was still out of balance, again apparently mostly the rotor. Same thing happened with a brand new TR3 brake rotor mounted. I got the rotor runout down to .002" and then drilled a series of dimples around the edge of the rotor to balance it. Balance still isn't perfect, but it's much better than before ... I can feel the vibration in the vice, but things don't dance around on the bench. Hopefully in the next few days I'll try it on the car. I've bid on the on-car balancing gizmos several times, but always been outbid. Apparently they are no longer sold new. HF also sells a motorcycle wheel balancing tool that might do for balancing hub/rotor assemblies; but I haven't tried it for that. -- Randall From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Oct 20 14:22:47 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 15:22:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] wax on wax off References: Message-ID: <3896222CE4B94073A380CD721DD7BEA5@KARL> Are there any good-quality modern waxes that DO NOT contain silicone ?? Karl > knowing how personal a wax choice is, i'll just mention that i really like > zymol From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 20 14:28:37 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:28:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics In-Reply-To: <1940609621.6240901256052280135.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <89994909.6240701256052262449.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1940609621.6240901256052280135.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > You may have noticed at Triumphest that TR44SUE is louder > than your bagpipes. Sue is getting tired of setting off car > alarms with the glass-pack system FWIW, Phil, I had the same problem with the single glasspack installed by a local muffler shop on TS39781LO. I found that adding a downturned chrome tip greatly reduced both the apparent noise, and the incidence of setting off car alarms. Still would set them off occasionally, when in a parking garage or something that would resonate. When I took TS13571L back to the same place, I asked for a quieter system and he installed a second, smaller glass pack behind the rear axle; just like the factory did originally. The sound is now just perfect, IMO. Price and hassle factor were very attractive as well, cost me about $180 with tax and installation; installed in about an hour. That's only from the headpipe back, as the headpipe itself was in good condition. -- Randall From pethier at comcast.net Tue Oct 20 14:28:51 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 20:28:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] wax on wax off In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1251192496.6406911256070531940.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> A double application of Griot's Carnuba (he was bored while his relatives were out shopping) was what caused my friend's Elise to be unable to hold painter's tape. At all. We had to put autocross numbers on the car with duct tape, which came off without a mark. I am not making this up. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "oliver" wrote: > From: "oliver" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 3:02:33 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] wax on wax off > > knowing how personal a wax choice is, i'll just mention that i really > like > zymol > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 20 14:29:33 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:29:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Re-Tapping Threads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3DC93DBA085D4D77B07F249EA3A57E81@jdnet.deere.com> > Have you tried an M4 with a .7 pitch? Or perhaps 8-36 ? -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 20 14:46:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:46:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <270476.29133.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <270476.29133.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > I am getting ready for new tires on my TR6. When > balancing the wheels, does anyone leave the trim rings on. > They aren't really symmetrical, having the hole on one side > for the valve stem for filling tires. Does it make a difference? There is extra metal around the hole (at least on the rings I have), which I've always assumed would make up for the hole itself. The aluminum is pretty light anyway, so I don't think it would make a noticeable difference. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 20 15:02:28 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 14:02:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trickle Charger Wire Gauge? In-Reply-To: References: <7vpiof$5d80ep@pd6mo1no-svcs.prod.shaw.ca> Message-ID: > I just paid our electical bill and the current rate was 32.7 > cents per KWh. Wow! I thought CA was supposed to be expensive, but I'm paying a lot less than that, at least on average. Don't think even the marginal rate is that high. > That would make the cost of charging for the month about 14 cents. You're assuming that the charger is 100% efficient. But those things get hot even with no load, so I'd guess it's wasting at least a watt. Which would bring the cost up to a whopping 38 cents -- Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Oct 20 15:11:14 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:11:14 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] wax on wax off Message-ID: <1379329123.515621.1256073074191.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net> A guy who runs his own detailing business advised me to use One Grand Blitz Wax, its Carnauba wax, not sure about silicone, but it goes on easy and comes off easy, does a great job. Craig 72 TR6 Vienna, VA On Oct 20, 2009, Karl Vacek wrote: Are there any good-quality modern waxes that DO NOT contain silicone ?? Karl > knowing how personal a wax choice is, i'll just mention that i really like > zymol This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Oct 20 15:21:45 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 17:21:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics In-Reply-To: <1940609621.6240901256052280135.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1940609621.6240901256052280135.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <200910201721.45944.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 20 October 2009 11:24:40 am pethier at comcast.net wrote: > > Car companies spend millions tuning out resonances in modern autos. > > But > > I think most of the racket comes from the exhaust system. The Falcon > > system > > on my TR6 is particularly bad. I don't think it is so much the noise > > coming out of the pipe as it is the walls of the muffler vibrating. > > The mild > > steel mufflers are made with heavier gauge steel and don't resonate as > > much but > > the Falcon designers decided that since Stainless doesn't rust they > > can get > > away with thinner material. They were right and the muffler has > > lasted 13 > > years but the down side is I will probably replace it for other > > reasons. > > But that is a round tuit yet to be got. > > Dave > > I have heard from several sources that the Bell stainless systems are > superior in quality and fit to the Falcon. The TransAmeriCan Stag used a > Bell system, and I was pleased with its sound when I rode in and drove it. > Don't recall any annoying resonances, but my memory was never any good. > > You may have noticed at Triumphest that TR44SUE is louder than your > bagpipes. Sue is getting tired of setting off car alarms with the > glass-pack system that Chris Murphy commissioned at the Midas shop in San > Antonio. A Bell system may be in its future. Anybody know the best way to > buy one in the USA? > > Meanwhile, how goes the battle to either move your Triumph home or secure > it in Colorado for the winter? > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier Phil, Dave, I am going to get a Bell system for my 72 TR6 project. I have the Bell system on both my 3 and 4 and love the sound and the fit was the best I have ever seen. I have spoken to Kai @ WIshbone Classics and he quoted me a price of about 650 for a Bell system. This is a dual exhaust system SS from the headpipe to the dual mufflers. I know it sounds a bit high but take it from me, the Bell is top quality. Bob From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Oct 20 17:07:54 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 19:07:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] wax on wax off In-Reply-To: <7E80337D35F4954BAAE76DAF1CBDB4A0026F0314@EVSDTC01.ad.office.aol.com> References: Message-ID: Same thing for me with the NXT. I had gotten in the habit with other waxes of doing a panel and then wiping it off. There was a tech from Maguires at TRA this year doing a tech session. When I told him what I had experienced he explained that the NXT is really good stuff but different than the old stuf in that it has to DRY well. He said I was rushing it and to do the entire car and waite till it drys and I would be happy with it. I havent had a chance to follow hs advice yet though. Marty _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 20 17:08:57 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 19:08:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Car Harmonics Message-ID: In a message dated 10/20/2009 1:02:34 PM Central Daylight Time, StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org writes: > So Dave, > > Where is your car in Colorado? I happen to live in that state ... > It is in Kansas. But just barely. I made arrangements today to have it picked up. $500 one way. Not too bad considering I was looking at $300 in gas to go get it. And two days of my time. Dave From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Tue Oct 20 18:04:00 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 20:04:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Re-Tapping Threads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <80FC40BBB6F846D5B1806C404C72CC1F@Scott> Not positive but will check that out. Thanks. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 8:20 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Re-Tapping Threads In a message dated 10/19/2009 9:34:44 PM Central Daylight Time, suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes: > Can you re-tap threads using a smaller threads per inch tape? I have a > screw > hole that is a size #6 with 36 thread and I can only get a #6 screw with > 32 > thread screw. Can I tap the 36 thread hole with a 32 tap and use the 32 > thread screw without messing up the threads? Hope this is clear.... > Are you sure they are not metric? Have you tried an M4 with a .7 pitch? Dave This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Oct 20 19:13:11 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 18:13:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] wax on wax off Message-ID: <427174.81931.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> listers, As a follow-up to the wax problem I shared..............I went out and treated the "greasy" wax just as I would have if it were dry like powder. I found it pretty easy to buff off (by hand). It didn't take hard rubbing like the old type wax sometimes did but you could feel it come off the longer you buffed. Then by going back around and viewing from differant angles it could be buffed some more with a clean towel for a great final finish. I'll just change my way of wiping/buffing the final finish. gary n. From jmitch at snet.net Tue Oct 20 19:57:23 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 21:57:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] wax on wax off In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4ADE6A83.3020300@snet.net> I've been using Turtle's ICE. It's easy to apply and leaves absolutely no residue when wiping off. If you try it, you'll love it. They have a good quick detailer too. In the past, when I had a difficult time buffing the wax off(Like Meguiars NXT), I'd just hit it with a spritz of quick detailer. Works for compounding too. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag marty sukey wrote: > Same thing for me with the NXT. I had gotten in the habit with other waxes of > doing a panel and then wiping it off. There was a tech from Maguires at TRA > this year doing a tech session. When I told him what I had experienced he > explained that the NXT is really good stuff but different than the old stuf in > that it has to DRY well. He said I was rushing it and to do the entire car and > waite till it drys and I would be happy with it. I havent had a chance to > follow hs advice yet though. > > Marty > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Oct 21 08:03:37 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 14:03:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <4ADDF506.7010102@earthlink.net> References: <4ADDF506.7010102@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I don't know where the Space Coast is but there is a shop in San Jose that does tire truing. If you want a really smooth ride that is the only way to go. Best regards, Tom > Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:36:06 -0400 > From: supertr6 at earthlink.net > To: Dave1massey at cs.com > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels > > Every TR6 I've owned have shimmied at around 62 MPH. The only time they > haven't is when I've had the tires balanced on the car. The problem is, > I can't find anyone who does that anymore! If anyone knows of someone > around the Space Coast... > > Or, of course, has the machine to sell cheap! > > Joe > > Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > In a message dated 10/20/2009 8:37:00 AM Central Daylight Time, > > pethier at comcast.net writes: > > > >>> Of course the best way is to balance with the wheels on the car. This > >>> will > >>> compensate for imbalances in the other rotating parts, too. > >>> > >> Only if you never remove the wheel. > >> > >> I'd rather be able to rotate the tires. > >> > >> > > What's stopping you? Just rotate and go back for a rebalance. > > > > Yes, it's a pain but if you want the ultimate in a smooth ride that's what > > you do. > > > > On the other hand Smooth Ride and Triumph don't necessarily fit together. > > > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ From agraham at execulink.com Wed Oct 21 08:20:42 2009 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 10:20:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 10" brakes -rubber boot installation Message-ID: <200910211420.n9LEKe2K023424@smtp2.execulink.net> Hello List: Another question regarding the TR10" brakes. At what point is the rubber boot installed over the slave cylinder, handbrake lever and distance pieces? Have installed the 3 plates a couple of times to make sure I have that procedure correct (must thank the list member who posted great photos on installing the plates a few months ago). Does the rubber boot go under the last plate or is there another position for it?? Thanks again for any insights. Angelo Graham From piggerp at comcast.net Wed Oct 21 09:55:59 2009 From: piggerp at comcast.net (Spam Account) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 09:55:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1C838EA4B8CD4258B825240B3E8ACE81@Porter> I've tested the valve by sucking and blowing in the bottom of the valve that goes to the intake manifold. It doesn't allow gas to go back into the valve cover, but when I suck it allow air into the manifold, even when I push down on the disk and post gadget inside the valve that sits directly and vertically over the check valve. Shouldn't doing this prevent air from going into the intake? Is there a way to fix this? It looks like the valve part is pressed into the housing. Are there any modern PCV valves that are not just a one way valve, but also a regulator? Thanks Jeff Porter 67 - TR4A with a rough idle :-{ Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 18:13:54 EDT From: Dave1massey at cs.com Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In a message dated 10/18/2009 4:46:41 PM Central Daylight Time, piggerp at comcast.net writes: > I've been having troubles with my front SU carburetor idling to fast. > I've > made sure there are no leaks and there is nothing hanging, but the > carburetor reuses to go less then about 2000 RPM. I then plugged the hose > from the intake manifold to the Crankcase Breather Valve and the RPM > dropped > sharply. I assume there is a lot of air getting through this system. > How do I check the whole system to see if the breather valve is > functioning? > Can I get rid of it? > Make sure the valve is assembled correctly. I ran into this issue and the pin on the plate with the diaghram was not centered and was not regulating the air flow. Basicaly it was wide open. I put it back together correctly (not all that trivial) and the car tuned up just like it should. Dave From supertr6 at earthlink.net Wed Oct 21 10:03:33 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 12:03:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: References: <4ADDF506.7010102@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4ADF30D5.8050104@earthlink.net> Assuming San Jose is in California that is a LONG way! We are in Florida by the Space Center. But thanks for the idea. We must have some old timers around here somewhere that do that kind of work. tom white wrote: > I don't know where the Space Coast is but there is a shop in San Jose > that does tire truing. If you want a really smooth ride that is the > only way to go. > > Best regards, Tom > > > > > Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 13:36:06 -0400 > > From: supertr6 at earthlink.net > > To: Dave1massey at cs.com > > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [TR] Balancing TR6 Wheels > > > > Every TR6 I've owned have shimmied at around 62 MPH. The only time they > > haven't is when I've had the tires balanced on the car. The problem is, > > I can't find anyone who does that anymore! If anyone knows of someone > > around the Space Coast... > > > > Or, of course, has the machine to sell cheap! > > > > Joe > > > > Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 10/20/2009 8:37:00 AM Central Daylight Time, > > > pethier at comcast.net writes: > > > > > >>> Of course the best way is to balance with the wheels on the car. > This > > >>> will > > >>> compensate for imbalances in the other rotating parts, too. > > >>> > > >> Only if you never remove the wheel. > > >> > > >> I'd rather be able to rotate the tires. > > >> > > >> > > > What's stopping you? Just rotate and go back for a rebalance. > > > > > > Yes, it's a pain but if you want the ultimate in a smooth ride > that's what > > > you do. > > > > > > On the other hand Smooth Ride and Triumph don't necessarily fit > together. > > > > > > Dave > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > > > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. Sign up > now. From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 21 12:38:03 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 14:38:03 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve Message-ID: In a message dated 10/21/2009 11:20:40 AM Central Daylight Time, piggerp at comcast.net writes: > > I've tested the valve by sucking and blowing in the bottom of the valve > that > goes to the intake manifold. It doesn't allow gas to go back into the > valve > cover, but when I suck it allow air into the manifold, even when I push > down > on the disk and post gadget inside the valve that > sits directly and vertically over the check valve. Shouldn't doing this > prevent air from going into the intake? Is there a way to fix this? It > looks like the valve part is pressed into the housing. Check the diaghram. I had one split on my MGB years ago and fixing it did a world of good. Dave From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Oct 21 17:28:27 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 23:28:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <427174.81931.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hello, everyone.B I have a stupid question. Okay, ...a very...stupid question. Therefore, I am the appropriate person to ask it.... When I think of car myths, I am reminded of one of my uncle, a grizzled veteran diesel mechanic who was one of the co-owners and chief mechanic of the logging company my family operated in Potter Valley, CA back in the early fifties.B Now, my uncles were not above stretching the truth when it was convenient and when any of us "young'uns" were around to impress/buffalo.B He claimed, and it seemed actually serious enough, that long ago, in his first car, a Model A, I think, he had a lower rod bearing problem.B To get home, he claimed he replaced the bearing with bacon rind. Now, that's weird. Uncle Ray is the same man, by the way, who told his wife, "Pearl, these last fifty years have been wonderful, but you've known all along it's going to end in your misery.B See, Elizabeth Taylor is the most beautiful woman in the world.B And, because I am the most handsome man in the world, it is inevitable that she will one day come to our door to take me away."B Who could say no, huh? ...After his best friend, my father, died, Uncle Ray was ailing with a heart condition, and dealing with my father's death he was seized with dark depression.B So of course I wrote a letter to Elizabeth Taylor, explaining the situation.B Within weeks, a 9 x 12 manila envelope arrived at Ray's house.B In it was a beautiful picture of Elizabeth Taylor, and the autograph:B "To Ray, with love, Liz." I've told no one where it came from.B Ray was mystified until the day he died.B He put the picture in a frame on the table by his easy chair, so everyone coming through the front door could see it, and know he had been right all along. I have no idea what Aunt Pearl thought about all that.B Don't even want to guess. So, anyway, none of that is my question.B My question is this: In movies, when heroes are out of gas, they happen to have a bottle of whisky in the car.B Thinking on their feet, they pour the bottle into their gas tank and--varoom--off they go! To the engineers, tell me, could that be real???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire, where to be honest, gas is much cheaper than single malt scotch (your experience may vary) From Loumetelko at aol.com Wed Oct 21 17:32:33 2009 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 19:32:33 EDT Subject: [TR] wax on wax off Message-ID: I succumbed to the temptations from Griot's Garage by ordering their Paint Cleaning Clay, a bottle of Fine Hand Polish and a bottle of their Best of Show Wax. Kind of salty but if applied in the order listed the results are fantastic. Based on the amount of remaining product I should have enough for about four applications. The product does exactly what the advertisement claims and is a true wipe on wipe off. My co-pilot still limps a bit from when she asked if I would next do the Silverado. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From spitlist at cox.net Wed Oct 21 18:06:02 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 17:06:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <427174.81931.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <9A5EA3EB11004FA689901EB1BE1EBAAA@joepentiumnew> I'd think (I'm no engineer) that for it to work, it had better be a high proof whiskey (close to 200 proof) in order to work. This 80 proof stuff you normally find is more than half water and impurities. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 4:28 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Car Myths Hello, everyone.B I have a stupid question. Okay, ...a very...stupid question. Therefore, I am the appropriate person to ask it.... When I think of car myths, I am reminded of one of my uncle, a grizzled veteran diesel mechanic who was one of the co-owners and chief mechanic of the logging company my family operated in Potter Valley, CA back in the early fifties.B Now, my uncles were not above stretching the truth when it was convenient and when any of us "young'uns" were around to impress/buffalo.B He claimed, and it seemed actually serious enough, that long ago, in his first car, a Model A, I think, he had a lower rod bearing problem.B To get home, he claimed he replaced the bearing with bacon rind. Now, that's weird. Uncle Ray is the same man, by the way, who told his wife, "Pearl, these last fifty years have been wonderful, but you've known all along it's going to end in your misery.B See, Elizabeth Taylor is the most beautiful woman in the world.B And, because I am the most handsome man in the world, it is inevitable that she will one day come to our door to take me away."B Who could say no, huh? ...After his best friend, my father, died, Uncle Ray was ailing with a heart condition, and dealing with my father's death he was seized with dark depression.B So of course I wrote a letter to Elizabeth Taylor, explaining the situation.B Within weeks, a 9 x 12 manila envelope arrived at Ray's house.B In it was a beautiful picture of Elizabeth Taylor, and the autograph:B "To Ray, with love, Liz." I've told no one where it came from.B Ray was mystified until the day he died.B He put the picture in a frame on the table by his easy chair, so everyone coming through the front door could see it, and know he had been right all along. I have no idea what Aunt Pearl thought about all that.B Don't even want to guess. So, anyway, none of that is my question.B My question is this: In movies, when heroes are out of gas, they happen to have a bottle of whisky in the car.B Thinking on their feet, they pour the bottle into their gas tank and--varoom--off they go! To the engineers, tell me, could that be real???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire, where to be honest, gas is much cheaper than single malt scotch (your experience may vary) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Oct 21 18:09:07 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 20:09:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <427174.81931.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4ADF6A63.20696.F73CF80@localhost> On 21 Oct 2009 at 23:28, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Thinking on their feet, they pour the bottle into their gas tank > and--varoom--off they go! > > To the engineers, tell me, could that be real???? I have no idea but it was such a great story that I have to wrie something anyway! If the stuff is high enough alcohol content it should burn. Don't know about the normal low-power stuff though. Don't know how it would react inside an engine or what sort of mixture it would need. Maybe Randall has tried it already! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 21 18:17:15 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 17:17:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <427174.81931.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <63EF7FBFA3954ED1A64C3A1868A3ED74@jdnet.deere.com> > In movies, when heroes are out of gas, they happen to have a > bottle of whisky in the car.B Thinking on their feet, they > pour the bottle into their gas tank and--varoom--off they go! > > To the engineers, tell me, could that be real???? "Could be" if the whiskey was high enough proof. I have, in fact, done essentially that. Bought a gallon of denatured alcohol, which from an engine's point of view is pretty close to 190 proof "white lightning"; plumbed it up to the TR's carbs, and drove around town on it. Had to disconnect the jet return springs and pull them way down to get the right mixture, but pulling the choke would have done much the same thing. Didn't go very far, and used most of the gallon, so I didn't experiment any more after that. BTW, I've heard similar stories about Model T rod bearings (which were originally babbitt, basically just lead/tin solder poured into the end of the rod). Last one I recall involved a leather belt. The Model T motor was very low compression and made very little power for it's size. Peak torque was only about 900 rpm, and it would run much slower than that, so the overall stress on the rod bearings was much lower than in newer engines. Interestingly enough, according to the Wikipedia article, the Model T was actually available in an ethanol version, to be powered with homemade 'shine! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Model_T -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Oct 21 18:32:51 2009 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 17:32:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve Message-ID: <736967.74812.qm@web111604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Cosmo and i where chatting recently and we discovered we have 2 similar but different parts. the manifold adapter (moss page 14 item #67) that Cosmo has is just a straight through tube, while mine is a spring loaded one way valve. crank case gas can go into my manifold but not come out. what have the rest you you TR4 owners got? Frank ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, October 21, 2009 11:38:03 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve In a message dated 10/21/2009 11:20:40 AM Central Daylight Time, piggerp at comcast.net writes: > > I've tested the valve by sucking and blowing in the bottom of the valve > that > goes to the intake manifold. It doesn't allow gas to go back into the > valve > cover, but when I suck it allow air into the manifold, even when I push > down > on the disk and post gadget inside the valve that > sits directly and vertically over the check valve. Shouldn't doing this > prevent air from going into the intake? Is there a way to fix this? It > looks like the valve part is pressed into the housing. Check the diaghram. I had one split on my MGB years ago and fixing it did a world of good. Dave _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From mark at bradakis.com Wed Oct 21 18:45:04 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 18:45:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4ADFAB10.7080708@bradakis.com> As a fellow that loves to cook [ wasatchfoodies.com ] I can say with certainty that bacon rind is pretty tough stuff. And in the old days of slow revving motors and poured babbit bearings, I could see where a slice of rind might get you down the road to home. As for the whiskey, well, .... mjb. From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Oct 21 18:44:20 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 20:44:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <63EF7FBFA3954ED1A64C3A1868A3ED74@jdnet.deere.com> References: <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4ADF72A4.24224.F940D58@localhost> On 21 Oct 2009 at 17:17, Randall wrote: > I have, in fact, done > essentially that. Bought a gallon of denatured alcohol... What did I tell you? What *did* I tell you??? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mark at bradakis.com Wed Oct 21 18:53:03 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 18:53:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <63EF7FBFA3954ED1A64C3A1868A3ED74@jdnet.deere.com> References: <427174.81931.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <63EF7FBFA3954ED1A64C3A1868A3ED74@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <4ADFACEF.4010902@bradakis.com> > actually available in an ethanol version, to be powered with homemade > 'shine! > "And there was moonshine, moonshine to quench the devil's thirst The lawmen said they'd get 'im, but the devil got him first" I bet there might be one or two old farts on this list who know that song. mjb. From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Oct 21 19:20:25 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:20:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <4ADFACEF.4010902@bradakis.com> References: <63EF7FBFA3954ED1A64C3A1868A3ED74@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <4ADF7B19.30301.FB515B4@localhost> On 21 Oct 2009 at 18:53, Mark J Bradakis wrote: And there was thunder thunder down on thundner road Thunder was his engine and white lightning was his load. > "And there was moonshine, moonshine to quench the devil's thirst > The lawmen said they'd get 'im, but the devil got him first" > > > I bet there might be one or two old farts on this list who know that song. Thunder Road. Written and sung by Robert Mitchum for the movie, which was his production too. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mark at bradakis.com Wed Oct 21 19:56:58 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 19:56:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <4ADF7B19.30301.FB515B4@localhost> References: <63EF7FBFA3954ED1A64C3A1868A3ED74@jdnet.deere.com> <4ADF7B19.30301.FB515B4@localhost> Message-ID: <4ADFBBEA.1030002@bradakis.com> Jim Muller wrote: > Thunder Road. Written and sung by Robert Mitchum for the movie, > which was his production too. > > Well that didn't take long. Given your musical background I imagine Google was not involved. I don't have a copy of that recording, but the local community station [ krcl.org ] does on occasion play it during the bluegrass or Fret & Fiddle shows. NPR carried Thistle & Shamrock, I think KRCL should do 'Gristle & Hamhocks' We now return you to your regularly scheduled Triumph discussion. mjb. From fishplate at charter.net Wed Oct 21 19:54:48 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:54:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westch ester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <427174.81931.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: At 07:28 PM 10/21/2009, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >In movies, when heroes are out of gas, they happen to have a bottle of whisky >in the car.B Thinking on their feet, they pour the bottle into their gas tank >and--varoom--off they go! I can't speak to that specifically, but I once ran out of gas in the Spitfire. It was going to be an hour or more before AAA would be dropping by, so I rummaged in the trunk and came up with a half-bottle of fuel treatment. Having nothing to lose, I poured it in the tank. When I hit the starter, the engine caught and I hauled ass for the gas station about 2 miles away. Made it with gas to spare. I don't know if it was running on fuel treatment, or if it was enough to float the residual gas below the outlet enough to let a bit more flow. Either way, it saved me a long wait on the side of the road! Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From ZoboHerald at aol.com Wed Oct 21 20:21:32 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 22:21:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Car Myths Message-ID: In a message dated 10/21/2009 9:37:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: On 21 Oct 2009 at 18:53, Mark J Bradakis wrote: And there was thunder thunder down on thundner road Thunder was his engine and white lightning was his load. > "And there was moonshine, moonshine to quench the devil's thirst > The lawmen said they'd get 'im, but the devil got him first" > > > I bet there might be one or two old farts on this list who know that song. Thunder Road. Written and sung by Robert Mitchum for the movie, which was his production too. ==AM== Darn. First, Mark beats me to the question...and then Jim beats me to the answer! Great record, although it's probably best that Mitchum stayed mostly with acting. Kinda like Richard Harris.... :-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Oct 21 20:23:37 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 22:23:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] I'm back,still mixed up & need steering box help! Message-ID: <5204D141BAA0412CB4CBEDD73463E6E0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hey Group! I took some major time off the TR3 for family stuff, but am now ready to refocus on the LBC. Unfortunately, a little bit of rust settled on my rebuilt TR3 steering box, so I flushed it with 'Painter's Clean-up' (weak mineral spirits?). I guess that won't hurt anything? Yes, I rebuilt the box with new seals,both upper and lower ball bearings and had a machinist press in a new peg. Last spring (I think) I used the two pinch bolts to install the rebuilt arm and box. Steering wheel and shaft, etc. Today, I refitted the 4-bolt end plate using the original shims. All togather they might have been an 1/16th to 1/8" thick (accompanied by 2 paper gaskets). I did a trial fit first, rotating the steering wheel in order for the two bearings to properly seat themselves in the bearing races. Unfortunately, my car is off the ground with nothing touching the front wheels and so the following technique may need to be repeated w/ the car on the ground. The first adjustment that I had read about pertained to the number of shims. I was frustrated to find out that the arm was giving me a little too much resistance, so I decided 'not to do the adjustment according to the book' and see where it got me since I can undo any harm I cause. Common sense told me that the peg and arm control the lateral movement. So, I pulled the peg out of the worm so that I could feel 'just a tad' of resistance to turning of the steering wheel via the steering shaft only. I reinstalled the same shims as always, and with the lid off the top of the s. box I paid particular attention to both bearings seating squarely in their races. This meant the steering wheel had to be turned several times. My guess is that with everything installed properly (exceept lowering the arm and peg) and with the end-plate tightened good so that both lower and upper ball bearings can barely be seen to be rotating With steering wheel turns. Thankfully, this situation produced only a 'tad' of resistance to turning the steering wheel. I feel this 'by the seat of the pants' type of end play adjustment will proably be ok till I can measure end float with some sort of gauge. It's suppose to be less than 1/10th". Heck, maybe I can bypass the use of this end-float gauge? Any comments? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Oct 21 20:50:31 2009 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 22:50:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] MODEL As & pork rinds for ROD BEARINGS Message-ID: <8CC20D98DEB0F83-12F0-8941@webmail-d024.sysops.aol.com> Terry, TRUE! my dad told of these kind of fixes in Kansas. He said one fix was shoe leather. In the absense of fixing journals with poured babbit bearings they used shoe leather. Plausible methinks, given the application and stiuation, and the times. Joe A From mark at bradakis.com Wed Oct 21 21:03:10 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:03:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4ADFCB6E.6040205@bradakis.com> > Kinda like Richard Harris.... :-) > > McCartney's Stag is melting ... oh, never mind. mjb. From mdporter at dfn.com Wed Oct 21 21:27:49 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:27:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <4ADFCB6E.6040205@bradakis.com> References: <4ADFCB6E.6040205@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4ADFD135.6080406@dfn.com> Mark J Bradakis wrote: >> Kinda like Richard Harris.... :-) >> > > McCartney's Stag is melting ... oh, never mind. "Someone... left the top down in the rain..." Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From pethier at comcast.net Wed Oct 21 21:32:43 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 03:32:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention In-Reply-To: <761975075.7076341256182253752.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1159185762.7076881256182363837.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> OK, I have not added up all the fuel bills, but I do have total mileages. Official mileage on the rental motorhome: 5917 miles. And just in case anyone thinks the TR4 is a trailer queen, we put 693 miles on the TR4 this trip. Would have been more, if we'd taken it to Yellowstone instead of deadheading the motorhome. We put almost as many miles on the TR4 on a trailering trip as we put on when we drove it to the Rockford VTR in 2005... So total miles behind the wheel on my vacation ... 6610. Some were fun, some were scary, some were boring. Nebraska was not as flat and boring as I expected. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Oct 21 22:29:25 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 00:29:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <4ADFD135.6080406@dfn.com> References: <4ADFCB6E.6040205@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4ADFA765.28890.10621695@localhost> On 21 Oct 2009 at 21:27, Michael Porter wrote: > Mark J Bradakis wrote: > >> Kinda like Richard Harris.... :-) > >> > > > > McCartney's Stag is melting ... oh, never mind. > > "Someone... left the top down in the rain..." Did McCartney drive uncle jack through Kansas? Oh wait, that's the movie version. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Oct 21 22:29:25 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 00:29:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <4ADFBBEA.1030002@bradakis.com> References: <4ADF7B19.30301.FB515B4@localhost> Message-ID: <4ADFA765.29412.106216F3@localhost> On 21 Oct 2009 at 19:56, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Jim Muller wrote: > > Thunder Road. Written and sung by Robert Mitchum for the movie, > > which was his production too. > > > Well that didn't take long. Given your musical background I imagine > Google was not involved. He! Y'er right, Google had nothing to do with it. I could sing it with lyrics in front of me, but dang I can't remember all the words of all them places. Been to some of 'em though. I think. LBC content: Could I run white lightning in the GT6, I wonder? It could handle the terrain just fine, but not carry very much much. There's no place to put it! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 21 22:40:36 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:40:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fw: TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve In-Reply-To: <736967.74812.qm@web111604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20091022044036765.JQGV17264@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > Cosmo and i where chatting recently and we discovered we have > 2 similar but > different parts. > the manifold adapter (moss page 14 item #67) that Cosmo has > is just a straight through tube, while mine is a spring > loaded one way valve. > crank case gas can go into my manifold but not come out. Should definitely be a check valve in there somewhere! Otherwise, when you floor the throttle, the partial vacuum in the crankcase is going to suck fuel/air mixture out of the manifold. But the information I have indicates that the check valve function was incorporated in the PCV valve. And the TR4A SPC lists the adapter as Stanpart 138530, which is a simple straight-through adapter (also used for the thermostat bypass on a TR6 apparently). http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6bluebook/76.php So I think yours is a DPO-ism, Frank. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 22 06:18:03 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 08:18:03 EDT Subject: [TR] Fuel mileage to and from The VTR convention Message-ID: In a message dated 10/21/2009 10:33:02 PM Central Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > So total miles behind the wheel on my vacation ... 6610. Some were fun, > some were scary, some were boring. Nebraska was not as flat and boring as > I expected. > The TR6 registered 5,400 and something miles. I didn't keep accurate records but I think it averaged about 27 MPG and 1,500 MPQ*. The TR8 stopped just shy of 5,000. And Kansas is not as flat as reputed to be. And the Western part can be very exciting - though not necessarily in a good way. ;-) Dave *27 Miles per gallon of gas and 1,500 Miles per quart of oil, much better than I was expecting. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Oct 22 07:20:26 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 13:20:26 +0000 Subject: [TR] Car Myths In-Reply-To: <1544568900.836491256167707415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <427174.81931.qm@web65310.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If it is moonshine it might work. I've heard the bacon rind story before and suspect it is at least a country legend if not true. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Windows 7: Simplify your PC. Learn more. http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMT AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen1:102009 From tdskip at yahoo.com Thu Oct 22 08:42:41 2009 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 07:42:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Checking TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <643405.20984.qm@web55605.mail.re4.yahoo.com> So just disassemble it and visually check that the diaphragm is intact? "Check the diaghram. I had one split on my MGB years ago and fixing it did a world of good. Dave" From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 22 10:31:18 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 12:31:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Checking TR4A Crankcase Breather Valve Message-ID: In a message dated 10/22/2009 10:08:55 AM Central Daylight Time, tdskip at yahoo.com writes: > So just disassemble it and visually check that the diaphragm is intact? > Yes. Roll the diaghram over your fingers and look for splits or cuts. Anything big enough to cause problems will be readily visible. Dave From leejohn7 at gmail.com Thu Oct 22 14:34:26 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 13:34:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 - broken piston liner Message-ID: My dumbest move yet - and that's saying a lot. Some may remember that when investigating my engine bang, I discovered a burr on the connecting rod bearing seat on the crankshaft, which had ground a groove in the bearing. I did my best to remove the burr with emery cloth and fine sandpaper, and buttoned up the engine. Today I decided to fine tune my repair, and having detached the rod from the crank I asked my partner to bump the engine around so I could get at the bad spot on the crank. To my horror the rod got stuck on the wrong side of the crank, jammed into the piston liner, and broke off a crescent shaped piece of liner about 1 1/2 inches long, where it protrudes from the bottom of the cylinder bore! So, my obvious question is, can I drive it this way? The piston does enter the broken area at the bottom of its stroke, but all the compression is way above, of course. I don't expect the liner is cracked upwards above the break, but who knows? I think its impossible top buy just one liner although I might come across a used set, I suppose. What further damage might I incur by not replacing the liner? As always, thank you for your help. John Howard 64 TR4 From guy at genfiniti.com Thu Oct 22 14:58:52 2009 From: guy at genfiniti.com (Guy D. Huggins) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 15:58:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 - broken piston liner Message-ID: <7d31d701$1dbf2128$2ff091e5$@com> Methinks heat transfer may become an issue. With less mass on one side of the liner, the other side would experience a greater degree of heat. Don't really know if it would be enough to cause problems like warping, etc. Guy ---------------------------------------- From: "Lee&John Howard" Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 3:54 PM To: "triumph list list" Subject: [TR] TR4 - broken piston liner My dumbest move yet - and that's saying a lot. Some may remember that when investigating my engine bang, I discovered a burr on the connecting rod bearing seat on the crankshaft, which had ground a groove in the bearing. I did my best to remove the burr with emery cloth and fine sandpaper, and buttoned up the engine. Today I decided to fine tune my repair, and having detached the rod from the crank I asked my partner to bump the engine around so I could get at the bad spot on the crank. To my horror the rod got stuck on the wrong side of the crank, jammed into the piston liner, and broke off a crescent shaped piece of liner about 1 1/2 inches long, where it protrudes from the bottom of the cylinder bore! So, my obvious question is, can I drive it this way? The piston does enter the broken area at the bottom of its stroke, but all the compression is way above, of course. I don't expect the liner is cracked upwards above the break, but who knows? I think its impossible top buy just one liner although I might come across a used set, I suppose. What further damage might I incur by not replacing the liner? As always, thank you for your help. John Howard 64 TR4 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From lbc.resto at verizon.net Thu Oct 22 15:44:59 2009 From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 17:44:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 - broken piston liner In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I did the same dumb thing when bringing mine "out of the barn". I had replaced the rings and big end bearings and then it happened. I didn't know how the engine was going to hold up anyway, so I decided to risk it. 3 years and 6,000 miles later it is still going. I know that it might go bang, but I have a spare engine that I will be building up for later. Just this reporter's experience. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee&John Howard Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 4:34 PM To: triumph list list Subject: [TR] TR4 - broken piston liner My dumbest move yet - and that's saying a lot. Some may remember that when investigating my engine bang, I discovered a burr on the connecting rod bearing seat on the crankshaft, which had ground a groove in the bearing. I did my best to remove the burr with emery cloth and fine sandpaper, and buttoned up the engine. Today I decided to fine tune my repair, and having detached the rod from the crank I asked my partner to bump the engine around so I could get at the bad spot on the crank. To my horror the rod got stuck on the wrong side of the crank, jammed into the piston liner, and broke off a crescent shaped piece of liner about 1 1/2 inches long, where it protrudes from the bottom of the cylinder bore! So, my obvious question is, can I drive it this way? The piston does enter the broken area at the bottom of its stroke, but all the compression is way above, of course. I don't expect the liner is cracked upwards above the break, but who knows? I think its impossible top buy just one liner although I might come across a used set, I suppose. What further damage might I incur by not replacing the liner? As always, thank you for your help. John Howard 64 TR4 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Oct 22 16:27:46 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 15:27:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 - broken piston liner In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have a spare 87mm piston and liner, you can have for shipping cost. > >My dumbest move yet - and that's saying a lot. > >Some may remember that when investigating my engine bang, I discovered a >burr on the connecting rod bearing seat on the crankshaft, which had ground >a groove in the bearing. I did my best to remove the burr with emery cloth >and fine sandpaper, and buttoned up the engine. Today I decided to fine tune >my repair, and having detached the rod from the crank I asked my partner to >bump the engine around so I could get at the bad spot on the crank. To my >horror the rod got stuck on the wrong side of the crank, jammed into the >piston liner, and broke off a crescent shaped piece of liner about 1 1/2 >inches long, where it protrudes from the bottom of the cylinder bore! > >So, my obvious question is, can I drive it this way? The piston does enter >the broken area at the bottom of its stroke, but all the compression is way >above, of course. I don't expect the liner is cracked upwards above the >break, but who knows? I think its impossible top buy just one liner although >I might come across a used set, I suppose. What further damage might I >incur by not replacing the liner? > >As always, thank you for your help. > >John Howard >64 TR4 >T -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tr6parts at charter.net Thu Oct 22 18:11:03 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 20:11:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 HE engine Message-ID: <376779806D6F43C4821CF79067B1FB3C@Alan> Is there any particular difference in the TR6 engine blocks marked HE , used I believe in 69. Also is there any difference in the Circle B head. Thanks , Al From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Oct 23 08:23:59 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:23:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 HE engine In-Reply-To: <376779806D6F43C4821CF79067B1FB3C@Alan> References: <376779806D6F43C4821CF79067B1FB3C@Alan> Message-ID: On Thu, 22 Oct 2009, Al Salvatore wrote: > Is there any particular difference in the TR6 engine blocks marked HE , used I > believe in 69. HE is "High compression" "Engine". For US cars, that 8.5:1 > Also is there any difference in the Circle B head. Circle B is the foundry mark and Yes, there is at least one difference. Reportedly the Circle B castings are thicker than the other foundries. Of course, there's the early head and the late head, but that's not what you asked. > Thanks , > > Al c ya, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From leejohn7 at gmail.com Fri Oct 23 12:56:22 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 11:56:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 - broken piston liner - wrap-up Message-ID: Thanks for your good advice, and overall encouragement. I can detect no crack above the break so plan to button up and go for a drive. This was the car I wanted to drive to SLO but no such luck. Oh well, at least I'll get to the next Triumphest. Best to all John Howard 64 TR4 almost ready 73 Stag project From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Fri Oct 23 13:44:37 2009 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:44:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Battery shelf Message-ID: <270011.43999.qm@web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Does anyone have a close up photo of the area under/behind the battery they can email to me? I need to rebuild the area and only have a rust hole for a pattern. Thanks y'all. From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Fri Oct 23 13:53:27 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 14:53:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Battery shelf In-Reply-To: <270011.43999.qm@web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <270011.43999.qm@web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You might want to tell the list what type of car you are working on. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:44:37 -0700 > From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Battery shelf > > Does anyone have a close up photo of the area under/behind the battery they can email to me? I need to rebuild the area and only have a rust hole for a pattern. Thanks y'all. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From 60TR3A at cox.net Fri Oct 23 16:18:40 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:18:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] volt meter Message-ID: <7E045FF9-41FA-4FA0-9555-4E781BD164EF@cox.net> Last year I installed a Dan Masters electrical system and an alternator. Following Dan's advice I recently installed a voltmeter instead of the old 30 Amp ammeter. My simple minded question is why does my 12 Volt system/battery read 15 volts on my new volt meter?? John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From spitlist at cox.net Fri Oct 23 16:31:09 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:31:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] volt meter In-Reply-To: <7E045FF9-41FA-4FA0-9555-4E781BD164EF@cox.net> References: <7E045FF9-41FA-4FA0-9555-4E781BD164EF@cox.net> Message-ID: <1A6211D99302447D810B7598729EC686@joepentiumnew> Cause you have a full charge going on! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John A. Wise Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 3:19 PM To: Triumph car discussion Sports Subject: [TR] volt meter Last year I installed a Dan Masters electrical system and an alternator. Following Dan's advice I recently installed a voltmeter instead of the old 30 Amp ammeter. My simple minded question is why does my 12 Volt system/battery read 15 volts on my new volt meter?? John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Oct 23 16:31:06 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:31:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] volt meter In-Reply-To: <7E045FF9-41FA-4FA0-9555-4E781BD164EF@cox.net> References: <7E045FF9-41FA-4FA0-9555-4E781BD164EF@cox.net> Message-ID: <739B1DA800D1409497B4A2486C8A030B@jdnet.deere.com> > why does my 12 Volt system/battery read 15 > volts on my new volt meter?? Although the nominal battery voltage is 12.6 volts when it's not being charged, it takes somewhat more than that to recharge the battery. Some alternators do put out as much as 15 volts after startup, to ensure that the battery is recharged quickly. It should drop down to perhaps 14 volts when the alternator gets hot. -- Randall From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Fri Oct 23 18:06:51 2009 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 17:06:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Battery shelf In-Reply-To: <270011.43999.qm@web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <270011.43999.qm@web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <26321.64577.qm@web81701.mail.mud.yahoo.com> ----- Original Message ---- From: Kurt Johnson To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, October 23, 2009 2:44:37 PM Subject: [TR] Battery shelf Does anyone have a close up photo of the area under/behind the battery they can email to me? I need to rebuild the area and only have a rust hole for a pattern. Thanks y'all. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Oct 23 18:21:43 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 20:21:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] volt meter In-Reply-To: <7E045FF9-41FA-4FA0-9555-4E781BD164EF@cox.net> References: <7E045FF9-41FA-4FA0-9555-4E781BD164EF@cox.net> Message-ID: <534E7E1FC936426FA49009A18B97BD36@BOBSNEWPC> John...........welcome to a Triumph wire harness that handles all your electrical loads. I've got pretty much what you have in my TR6 and it puts out a steady 14.x volts. Go for a drive with your high beams on, radio on, heater on and honking your horn and see how much it drops, if any. Try the same thing at idle and see what happens. Have fun. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John A. Wise Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 6:19 PM To: Triumph car discussion Sports Subject: [TR] volt meter Last year I installed a Dan Masters electrical system and an alternator. Following Dan's advice I recently installed a voltmeter instead of the old 30 Amp ammeter. My simple minded question is why does my 12 Volt system/battery read 15 volts on my new volt meter?? John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Fri Oct 23 18:22:50 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 17:22:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] primary plunger seal Message-ID: <850705.26482.qm@web65315.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> anyone know if theres a source for just the seal for the primary plunger on a tr-6 brake master cylinder? I purchased a new re-build kit and while attempting to strip the seal over the end of the plunger it split in half. Hate to purchase a complete kit again simply for one seal. I probably did make a mistake in that I stripped it over the biggest end of the plunger rather than the pointed end which might have been easier. thanks! gary n. From pethier at comcast.net Sat Oct 24 15:19:36 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:19:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Battery shelf In-Reply-To: <270011.43999.qm@web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <984601049.119191256419176076.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> What model car? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Kurt Johnson" wrote: > From: "Kurt Johnson" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 2:44:37 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] Battery shelf > > Does anyone have a close up photo of the area under/behind the > battery they can email to me? I need to rebuild the area and only > have a rust hole for a pattern. Thanks y'all. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Oct 24 17:49:49 2009 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 19:49:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shrinking Disc Demo Message-ID: Hi Todd, Not sure if you are interested, but I have been using a really neat tool to remove dents from my TR4A body work. It is called a shrinking disk. I could do a demo on how it works during the Trials if you are interested. It is fairly inexpensive (in the whole scheme of what a paint job costs) and not too hard to learn how to use. Basically, you remove the dent with out using Bondo but bring the low spots up while shrinking the high spots.. Kind of cool. If you want, I could show you guys how it works and if you think it would be worth demonstrating as a workshop at the trials we could figure something out. The reason I am suggesting this is that bodywork is the single most daunting/expensive process in a restoration and this would allow a lot of the guys out there to jump in and at least get the dents out ... Anyway, let me know and we can figure something out. I would be willing to have the demo here, With the room addition and deck we could do a tech session/cookout. (I haven't asked SHMBO yet but she is usually game). Really tough to hear of Rob's dad passing, That is never easy. I remember when my dad died. Dave Connitt From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sat Oct 24 18:30:11 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 17:30:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Free Wheel Def Message-ID: <831149.49264.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am looking through a book on British cars of 1947 and it makes mention that some cars have a "free wheel". I've seen this term before. What does it mean? Bill in Tehachapi From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sat Oct 24 18:40:59 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 17:40:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition Message-ID: <295242.41511.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I understand pounds sterling. So are a quid, bob and guinea the same thing? And is a shilling the equivalent to our nickel? Guinea4.(lowercase) a former money of account of the United Kingdom, equal to 21 shillings: still often used in quoting fees or prices.5.(lowercase) a gold coin of Great Britain issued from 1663 to 1813, with a nominal value of 20 shillings. Shilling 1.a cupronickel coin and former monetary unit of the United Kingdom, the 20th part of a pound, equal to 12 pence: retained in circulation equal to 5 new pence after decimalization in 1971. Bill in Tehachapi From mark at bradakis.com Sat Oct 24 18:56:09 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 18:56:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Free Wheel Def In-Reply-To: <831149.49264.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <831149.49264.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4AE3A229.90702@bradakis.com> I'm not very certain on this, but if memory serves me right the reference is to a one way clutch of sorts. Under engine power the clutch hooks up to the driveline to move the car. When coasting, or 'freewheeling' the clutch lets the drivetrain spin without engine drag. Sort of like a one way ratchet. mjb. From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Oct 24 18:57:51 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 20:57:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Free Wheel Def In-Reply-To: <831149.49264.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4AE36A4F.28253.1F137AA9@localhost> On 24 Oct 2009 at 17:30, William Brewer wrote: > I am looking through a book on British cars of 1947 and it makes > mention that some cars have a "free wheel". I've seen this term > before. What does it mean? It allows the wheels to keep spinning forward when the engine slows down, much like the rear hub of a bicycle lets you keep rolling forward when you stop pedaling. The premise was that it gave you better mileage. But it provided no engine braking and would seemingly place higher demands on your brakes. The last car I knew of which had one was the Saab 96, I think. Touble was, the V4 engine had so much torque it tended to break the freewheel, after which the car wouldn't go at all. I believe freewheels were outlawed on new cars in the US by the feds in the late 60's or early 70's. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sat Oct 24 19:11:26 2009 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:11:26 EDT Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition Message-ID: Right. Here we go with the big monetary explanation: Britain went to decimalised currency in 1970. Thereafter, there was only pounds and pence (or pennies). 100 pence to a pound. Prior to this, Britain's currency was a far easier system that everyone could understand, especially overseas tourists: Four farthings to a penny. Two halfpennies (but pronounced "Hay penny") to a penny. 12 pennies to a shilling ("bob" is slang for shilling) Two sixpences (a coin known as a "Tanner") to a shilling five shillings to a Crown. 20 shillings to a pound ("quid" is slang for a pound) 21 shillings to a guinea. Items were priced thus: 5/- That means five shillings (commonly referred to as 'five bob') 5/ 6 1/2d That means five shillings, sixpence hay-penny. Naturally, this system aided cashiers throughout the country when making change, especially as cashiers did not have the machines that told them how much change they should give. So, if for example you bought something for twelve shillings and five pence hay penny and you gave the cashier 15 bob, how much change would you expect? The answer, of course, is two shillings, sixpence hay penny. But you knew that, didn't you? See what a marvellously simple system this is? In fact, so simple is it that I once followed by grandfather into a store in 1971, where he purchased an item for 62 pence. His immediate reaction was "What's that in Old Money?" Can anyone guess???? Fingers on buzzers: It's 11 shillings exactly. Now that you know everything about Britain's earlier monetary system, you can all play fun games with working out change and asking each other how much certain things cost. Off you go then. Tim Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sat Oct 24 19:23:36 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 18:23:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <346800.80355.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Thanks Tim, That makes perfect sense now. I worked on a ship for 14 years and we measured lengths in fathoms and shots, a shot being 15 fathoms and a fathom being 6 feet. What the heck is a stone (for weight) a a cwt for weight? I've heard Brits use stone for weight. Do they still use hundredweight? -Bill in Tehachapi, now understanding why grandpa moved here from Burkenhead, England --- On Sat, 10/24/09, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Subject: Re: [TR] Brit Money Definition To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Saturday, October 24, 2009, 6:11 PM Right. Here we go with the big monetary explanation: Britain went to decimalised currency in 1970. Thereafter, there was only pounds and pence (or pennies). 100 pence to a pound. Prior to this, Britain's currency was a far easier system that everyone could understand, especially overseas tourists: Four farthings to a penny. Two halfpennies (but pronounced "Hay penny") to a penny. 12 pennies to a shilling ("bob" is slang for shilling) Two sixpences (a coin known as a "Tanner") to a shilling five shillings to a Crown. 20 shillings to a pound ("quid" is slang for a pound) 21 shillings to a guinea. Items were priced thus: 5/- That means five shillings (commonly referred to as 'five bob') 5/ 6 1/2d That means five shillings, sixpence hay-penny. Naturally, this system aided cashiers throughout the country when making change, especially as cashiers did not have the machines that told them how much change they should give. So, if for example you bought something for twelve shillings and five pence hay penny and you gave the cashier 15 bob, how much change would you expect? The answer, of course, is two shillings, sixpence hay penny. But you knew that, didn't you? See what a marvellously simple system this is? In fact, so simple is it that I once followed by grandfather into a store in 1971, where he purchased an item for 62 pence. His immediate reaction was "What's that in Old Money?" Can anyone guess???? Fingers on buzzers: It's 11 shillings exactly. Now that you know everything about Britain's earlier monetary system, you can all play fun games with working out change and asking each other how much certain things cost. Off you go then. Tim Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: www.kingscreektrees.com Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Oct 24 19:25:39 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:25:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition In-Reply-To: <346800.80355.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: Message-ID: <4AE370D3.18165.1F2CEBC8@localhost> On 24 Oct 2009 at 18:23, William Brewer wrote: > What the heck is a stone (for weight) a a cwt > for weight? I believe that's 14 pounds. Now someone explain why the abbreviation for pound is lb. Derived from Latin... -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sat Oct 24 19:30:01 2009 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:30:01 EDT Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition Message-ID: A "Stone" is fourteen pounds. I think the only way it is used is to measure one's own weight. At the doctor's office, one might be asked "how much do you weigh?", to which you'd have to be ready to say something like "twelve stone two", meaning twelve stones, two pounds, or 170 pounds. This is still the exclusive system used today in the UK. A hundredweight (abbreviated to cwt--always lower case for some reason), is one hundred pounds. Why that one is so complicated when all the other UK measurements are so simple, I have no idea. The use of cwt has dwindled to virtually nothing now, mostly because weight (with the exception of the weight of human beings) is metric, so as not to mix the two different systems. I guess a hundredweight equaling a hundred pounds was too complicated. Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From wbeech at flash.net Sat Oct 24 19:34:10 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 19:34:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6A9ED3A0F6F54448A1DEFF9FA64AF64F@bboffice> Tim, So when will Britain get to the Euro? BTW, you can explain Loonies & Toonnies while you are at it. Thanks for the primer, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 7:11 PM To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Brit Money Definition Right. Here we go with the big monetary explanation: Britain went to decimalised currency in 1970. Thereafter, there was only pounds and pence (or pennies). 100 pence to a pound. Prior to this, Britain's currency was a far easier system that everyone could understand, especially overseas tourists: Four farthings to a penny. Two halfpennies (but pronounced "Hay penny") to a penny. 12 pennies to a shilling ("bob" is slang for shilling) Two sixpences (a coin known as a "Tanner") to a shilling five shillings to a Crown. 20 shillings to a pound ("quid" is slang for a pound) 21 shillings to a guinea. Items were priced thus: 5/- That means five shillings (commonly referred to as 'five bob') 5/ 6 1/2d That means five shillings, sixpence hay-penny. Naturally, this system aided cashiers throughout the country when making change, especially as cashiers did not have the machines that told them how much change they should give. So, if for example you bought something for twelve shillings and five pence hay penny and you gave the cashier 15 bob, how much change would you expect? The answer, of course, is two shillings, sixpence hay penny. But you knew that, didn't you? See what a marvellously simple system this is? In fact, so simple is it that I once followed by grandfather into a store in 1971, where he purchased an item for 62 pence. His immediate reaction was "What's that in Old Money?" Can anyone guess???? Fingers on buzzers: It's 11 shillings exactly. Now that you know everything about Britain's earlier monetary system, you can all play fun games with working out change and asking each other how much certain things cost. Off you go then. Tim Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sat Oct 24 19:48:03 2009 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:48:03 EDT Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition Message-ID: Hi Bill; I do hope that Britain never adopts the Euro. We British will get far too confused when travelling to Continental Europe without the need for currency conversion. As for the Loonie and Toonie, from my adopted Colonial nation: The Loonie is a one Canadian Dollar coin, so named because there is a picture of a Loon on every one. When the two Canadian dollar coin came out, it was a natural fit (well, for Canadians, anyway) to call it a Toonie. Or is it a Twonie? I don't think I know. By the way, there is still a factory in the British town of Doncaster that is producing tractors with Whitworth-sized nuts and bolts! Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From pethier at comcast.net Sat Oct 24 19:48:33 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 01:48:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <495624236.172661256435313872.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: > A hundredweight (abbreviated to cwt--always lower case for some > reason), is > one hundred pounds. Why that one is so complicated when all the other > UK > measurements are so simple, I have no idea. The use of cwt has > dwindled to > virtually nothing now, mostly because weight (with the exception of > the > weight of human beings) is metric, so as not to mix the two different > systems. > I guess a hundredweight equaling a hundred pounds was too > complicated. > > Tim Dyer, Proprietor > Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals > 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 > Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada > Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ > (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Sorta. From Wikipedia: === The hundredweight or centum weight (abbreviated cwt) is a unit of mass defined in terms of the pound avoirdupois (lb). The Imperial and U.S. customary definitions differ : In Imperial units, a (long) hundredweight is defined as 112 lb, or 8 stone, or four quarters; equivalent to 50.80234544 kg. This is so close to 50 kg that the transition to its 50 kg metric equivalent of quintal aka centner (Zentner in German) has been easy. In U.S. customary units, a (short) hundredweight is defined as 100 lb; equivalent to 45.35924 kg. This is also the normal hundredweight in Canada. The short hundredweight is also called a cental, especially in places which normally use the long hundredweight. In both systems, there are twenty hundredweights to a ton: respectively, the long ton of 2240 lbbapproximately equal to a metric tonne of 1,000 kilograms (2,205 lb))b and the short ton of 2000 lb. === Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sat Oct 24 19:52:55 2009 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:52:55 EDT Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition Message-ID: Aha! I see you have spotted the deliferate mistale! I was mixing old and new currencies! 50p is the equivalent of 10 bob. 12 old pennies to a shilling, added pointlessly to 12 NEW pence makes 11 shillings. There. Now we're all confused. And I didn't get into Florins, "Thruppeny Bits" and half crowns because I was trying to introduce the simpicity of this system in stages. Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From mmarr at notwires.com Sat Oct 24 19:53:30 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 20:53:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition References: Message-ID: <0962FDFFEDC845C8B684E3BA65F76127@trigeni.com> Actually, a UK hundredweight is 112 lbs or 8 stone. There are 20 cwt to the ton (2,240 lbs in the UK, sometimes called the "long ton" to differentiate it from the short ton, or 2,000 lbs, as used in the US). When I was a little boy in the fifties, the coalman would deliver coal in cwt bags. The bags were stacked vertically on the coal lorry and the coalman would lift a bag on his shoulder, carry it through the "passage" to the back garden and dump the coal in the coal bin. My dad would order 20 cwt at a time (never a ton, always 20 cwt) and my job was to count the bags as the coalman dumped them. By the way, back then I would be given a threepenny piece ("thruppeny bit") every Thursday as my pocket money, for which I could buy a comic (the Dandy or the Beano) and four blackjacks, which were licorice flavored soft candies that sold for a farthing each. Thursdays were pretty damn close to heaven. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 8:30 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Brit Money Definition > A hundredweight (abbreviated to cwt--always lower case for some reason), > is > one hundred pounds. Why that one is so complicated when all the other UK > measurements are so simple, I have no idea. The use of cwt has dwindled to > virtually nothing now, mostly because weight (with the exception of the > weight of human beings) is metric, so as not to mix the two different > systems. > I guess a hundredweight equaling a hundred pounds was too complicated. From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sat Oct 24 19:56:14 2009 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:56:14 EDT Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition Message-ID: OH, thanks so, so much for fully simplifying the definition. In a message dated 24/10/2009 9:48:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: Sorta. From Wikipedia: === The hundredweight or centum weight (abbreviated cwt) is a unit of mass defined in terms of the pound avoirdupois (lb). The Imperial and U.S. customary definitions differ : In Imperial units, a (long) hundredweight is defined as 112 lb, or 8 stone, or four quarters; equivalent to 50.80234544 kg. This is so close to 50 kg that the transition to its 50 kg metric equivalent of quintal aka centner (Zentner in German) has been easy. In U.S. customary units, a (short) hundredweight is defined as 100 lb; equivalent to 45.35924 kg. This is also the normal hundredweight in Canada. The short hundredweight is also called a cental, especially in places which normally use the long hundredweight. In both systems, there are twenty hundredweights to a ton: respectively, the long ton of 2240 lbbapproximately equal to a metric tonne of 1,000 kilograms (2,205 lb))b and the short ton of 2000 lb. Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario From spitlist at cox.net Sat Oct 24 20:16:42 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 19:16:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Free Wheel Def In-Reply-To: <831149.49264.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <831149.49264.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6D02D3984A7C4D8186BFCCC4A1D6E7D0@joepentiumnew> I am thinking that this is something akin to what SAAB was using in the 60's and perhaps before. There is a shaft that turns within a hub with roller bearings and ramps for the bearings to spin on within the hub. The shaft would be connected to the transmission and the hub would be connected to the engine. If the engine RPMs are higher than the transmission shaft, the shaft would lock inside the hub causing both units to be turning at the same speed. But if the transmission side is spinning faster than the engine, the shaft spins freely inside the hub. The result is you don't get engine braking and you can shift gears up and down without the clutch. This device could be disengaged so that the engine and transmission work the same as what we are used to. I think I got this right. It has been way too many years and I had to think very hard to recall the dynamics of it all. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 5:30 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Free Wheel Def I am looking through a book on British cars of 1947 and it makes mention that some cars have a "free wheel". I've seen this term before. What does it mean? Bill in Tehachapi This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From FordneyNJ at aol.com Sat Oct 24 21:06:08 2009 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 23:06:08 EDT Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition Message-ID: Tim, for that information, you should get a hand :-) From tom628 at verizon.net Sat Oct 24 21:22:14 2009 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 23:22:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition References: Message-ID: Nearside or offside hand? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 11:06 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Brit Money Definition > Tim, for that information, you should get a hand :-) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From patton at suscom-maine.net Sat Oct 24 22:15:35 2009 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 00:15:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Free Wheel Def In-Reply-To: <6D02D3984A7C4D8186BFCCC4A1D6E7D0@joepentiumnew> References: <831149.49264.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <6D02D3984A7C4D8186BFCCC4A1D6E7D0@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <4AE3D0E7.3090601@suscom-maine.net> Bill Joe and Jim are correct about free wheeling Saabs mainly because of the 2 strike engines. 60's 3cylinder Saabs had two stroke engines and you needed to add oil to the gas tank when filling up just like a chain saw mix. These cars all made the same blue smoke as a chainsaw too! Anyway the only lube oil to the crankcase was carried by the gas/oil mix. Fine for normal driving but when rolling down that big hill with your foot off the gas at 3K rpm there was no oil supplied to the bearings. With the throttle plate closed the engine only got a hint of gas/oil. So the choice was to use free wheeling and rely on your brakes or risk damaging the engine. It could be pretty scary coasting downhill as it picked up speed as the brakes were nothing special either. Those old Saabs were popular here in the Northeast and great in the snow because of the front wheel drive. Earlier models even had suicide doors! Rick Patton Brunswick Maine 75 TR6 sci 74 TVR 2500M project Joe Curry wrote: > I am thinking that this is something akin to what SAAB was using in the 60's > and perhaps before. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 24 22:22:24 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:22:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Free Wheel Def In-Reply-To: <6D02D3984A7C4D8186BFCCC4A1D6E7D0@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <20091025042224982.YUVR6016@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> > I think I got this right. I do, too. The diagrams I've seen look rather similar to the sprag clutch in a Laycock overdrive. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Sat Oct 24 22:26:55 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:26:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Free Wheel Def In-Reply-To: <4AE3D0E7.3090601@suscom-maine.net> References: <831149.49264.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><6D02D3984A7C4D8186BFCCC4A1D6E7D0@joepentiumnew> <4AE3D0E7.3090601@suscom-maine.net> Message-ID: It was also on the SAAB V4's sold in the 60's Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Patton Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 9:16 PM To: 'Triumphs' Cc: 'William Brewer' Subject: Re: [TR] Free Wheel Def Bill Joe and Jim are correct about free wheeling Saabs mainly because of the 2 strike engines. 60's 3cylinder Saabs had two stroke engines and you needed to add oil to the gas tank when filling up just like a chain saw mix. These cars all made the same blue smoke as a chainsaw too! Anyway the only lube oil to the crankcase was carried by the gas/oil mix. Fine for normal driving but when rolling down that big hill with your foot off the gas at 3K rpm there was no oil supplied to the bearings. With the throttle plate closed the engine only got a hint of gas/oil. So the choice was to use free wheeling and rely on your brakes or risk damaging the engine. It could be pretty scary coasting downhill as it picked up speed as the brakes were nothing special either. Those old Saabs were popular here in the Northeast and great in the snow because of the front wheel drive. Earlier models even had suicide doors! Rick Patton Brunswick Maine 75 TR6 sci 74 TVR 2500M project Joe Curry wrote: > I am thinking that this is something akin to what SAAB was using in the 60's > and perhaps before. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sun Oct 25 00:59:17 2009 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 07:59:17 +0100 Subject: [TR] Free Wheel Def References: <831149.49264.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><6D02D3984A7C4D8186BFCCC4A1D6E7D0@joepentiumnew><4AE3D0E7.3090601@suscom-maine.net> Message-ID: <2BD1FD1CC8F24DFAA79FFA8FD7AC3A56@Study> Also freewheel was fitted to several British cars pre WW2. Certain models of the larger Morris, possibly Lanchester and Daimler and famously Rover, who continued with freewheel right up to their P4 model. The trouble was that brakes were'nt so good in those drum days when engine braking was recommended by the experts. It did'nt take long for brake fade to start when on a long descent.! David Brister -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 27032 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Sun Oct 25 01:13:05 2009 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 04:13:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition Message-ID: <380-22009100258135328@earthlink.net> I can add very little to Tim's wonderful explanation. But I would point out the underlying logic: Long ago, penny coins were minted in silver. Each coin weighed 1/240 of a pound, so if you had 240 pennies you literally had "one pound sterling." 12 pennies to a shilling and 20 shillings to the pound preserved that ratio. "New Pence" minted after 1970 are of course 100 to the pound. Cheers, Tom For which of you, desiring to build a tower, doesn't first sit down and count the cost, to see if he has enough to complete it? Or perhaps, when he has laid a foundation, and is not able to finish, everyone who sees begins to mock him. -Luke 14.28-2 From jfulle8 at twcny.rr.com Sun Oct 25 02:41:39 2009 From: jfulle8 at twcny.rr.com (jim) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 05:41:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] free wheel def Message-ID: <3C3F18B08A994085A3A48B8CA520A5F5@user43e68274ae> Another thing we were told about the Saab free wheel was that when decending a hill with the engine providing braking and a closed throttle, engine lubrication was greatly reduced. This was because before the V-4 engine they used a 3 cylinder 2 stroke. Oil was mixed with gas of course. It seemed to make sense at the time. Jim Fuller From tr4zest at gmail.com Sun Oct 25 03:45:39 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 06:45:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Brit Money Definition In-Reply-To: References: <380-22009100258135328@earthlink.net> Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Brian Jones Date: Sun, Oct 25, 2009 at 6:45 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Brit Money Definition To: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net 'Old money' as we referred to it after the New Pence came to be (1969?) offered some logic in buying things in dozens. If an orange cost 3d (three pennies) then a dozen oranges cost 3 shillings. While the term 'penny' stems from old English, the abbreviation d, from denarius, a Roman silver coin, is a hang-over from the Roman invasion of Britain. Roman soldiers earned one denarius per diem. Perhaps denarii were interchangeable with pennies? Brian On Sun, Oct 25, 2009 at 4:13 AM, Tomislav Marincic < tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net> wrote: > I can add very little to Tim's wonderful explanation. But I would point out > the underlying logic: > Long ago, penny coins were minted in silver. Each coin weighed 1/240 of a > pound, so if you had > 240 pennies you literally had "one pound sterling." 12 pennies to a > shilling and 20 shillings to the > pound preserved that ratio. "New Pence" minted after 1970 are of course 100 > to the pound. > > Cheers, Tom > > For which of you, desiring to build a tower, doesn't first sit down and > count the cost, to see if he has enough to complete it? Or perhaps, when he > has laid a foundation, and is not able to finish, everyone who sees begins > to mock him. -Luke 14.28-2 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From fishplate at charter.net Sun Oct 25 07:12:40 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 10:12:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Free Wheel Def In-Reply-To: <4AE36A4F.28253.1F137AA9@localhost> References: <831149.49264.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4AE36A4F.28253.1F137AA9@localhost> Message-ID: At 08:57 PM 10/24/2009, Jim Muller wrote: >The last car I knew of which had one was the Saab 96, I think. Sounds right. I had a Sonett, which was the sports version of the 96. It had one, in theory... > Touble was, the V4 engine had so much torque it tended to break the >freewheel, after which the car wouldn't go at all. The one on my Sonett was welded up so it was direct drive. Probably a good thing, as the brakes always got a good workout anyway. Nice to have the engine helping... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 25 09:36:45 2009 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 09:36:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <61824.63557.qm@web111602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Naturally, this system aided cashiers throughout the country when making change, especially as cashiers did not have the machines that told them how much change they should give. but id did force them to have better mathematical skills. and on a similar note, nothing boils me more than listening to the stock market when they tell us in went down one and three quarter percent!!!! and for the times when we had really hard math to perform we could always turn to the "ready reckoner" Frank ________________________________ From: "KingsCreekTrees at aol.com" To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, October 24, 2009 6:11:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Brit Money Definition Right. Here we go with the big monetary explanation: Britain went to decimalised currency in 1970. Thereafter, there was only pounds and pence (or pennies). 100 pence to a pound. Prior to this, Britain's currency was a far easier system that everyone could understand, especially overseas tourists: Four farthings to a penny. Two halfpennies (but pronounced "Hay penny") to a penny. 12 pennies to a shilling ("bob" is slang for shilling) Two sixpences (a coin known as a "Tanner") to a shilling five shillings to a Crown. 20 shillings to a pound ("quid" is slang for a pound) 21 shillings to a guinea. Items were priced thus: 5/- That means five shillings (commonly referred to as 'five bob') 5/ 6 1/2d That means five shillings, sixpence hay-penny. Naturally, this system aided cashiers throughout the country when making change, especially as cashiers did not have the machines that told them how much change they should give. So, if for example you bought something for twelve shillings and five pence hay penny and you gave the cashier 15 bob, how much change would you expect? The answer, of course, is two shillings, sixpence hay penny. But you knew that, didn't you? See what a marvellously simple system this is? In fact, so simple is it that I once followed by grandfather into a store in 1971, where he purchased an item for 62 pence. His immediate reaction was "What's that in Old Money?" Can anyone guess???? Fingers on buzzers: It's 11 shillings exactly. Now that you know everything about Britain's earlier monetary system, you can all play fun games with working out change and asking each other how much certain things cost. Off you go then. Tim Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 25 09:38:52 2009 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 09:38:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition In-Reply-To: <346800.80355.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <346800.80355.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <482299.85836.qm@web111603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Bill birkenhead, almost makes you a scouser. welcome cousin Frank Fisher ex scouser, now a Californian ________________________________ From: William Brewer To: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, October 24, 2009 6:23:36 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Brit Money Definition Thanks Tim, That makes perfect sense now. I worked on a ship for 14 years and we measured lengths in fathoms and shots, a shot being 15 fathoms and a fathom being 6 feet. What the heck is a stone (for weight) a a cwt for weight? I've heard Brits use stone for weight. Do they still use hundredweight? -Bill in Tehachapi, now understanding why grandpa moved here from Burkenhead, England --- On Sat, 10/24/09, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Subject: Re: [TR] Brit Money Definition To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Saturday, October 24, 2009, 6:11 PM Right. Here we go with the big monetary explanation: Britain went to decimalised currency in 1970. Thereafter, there was only pounds and pence (or pennies). 100 pence to a pound. Prior to this, Britain's currency was a far easier system that everyone could understand, especially overseas tourists: Four farthings to a penny. Two halfpennies (but pronounced "Hay penny") to a penny. 12 pennies to a shilling ("bob" is slang for shilling) Two sixpences (a coin known as a "Tanner") to a shilling five shillings to a Crown. 20 shillings to a pound ("quid" is slang for a pound) 21 shillings to a guinea. Items were priced thus: 5/- That means five shillings (commonly referred to as 'five bob') 5/ 6 1/2d That means five shillings, sixpence hay-penny. Naturally, this system aided cashiers throughout the country when making change, especially as cashiers did not have the machines that told them how much change they should give. So, if for example you bought something for twelve shillings and five pence hay penny and you gave the cashier 15 bob, how much change would you expect? The answer, of course, is two shillings, sixpence hay penny. But you knew that, didn't you? See what a marvellously simple system this is? In fact, so simple is it that I once followed by grandfather into a store in 1971, where he purchased an item for 62 pence. His immediate reaction was "What's that in Old Money?" Can anyone guess???? Fingers on buzzers: It's 11 shillings exactly. Now that you know everything about Britain's earlier monetary system, you can all play fun games with working out change and asking each other how much certain things cost. Off you go then. Tim Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: www.kingscreektrees.com Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 25 09:41:35 2009 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 09:41:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <752539.54132.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> sorry Tim a hundred weight is 112 pounds. Frank ________________________________ From: "KingsCreekTrees at aol.com" To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, October 24, 2009 6:30:01 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Brit Money Definition A "Stone" is fourteen pounds. I think the only way it is used is to measure one's own weight. At the doctor's office, one might be asked "how much do you weigh?", to which you'd have to be ready to say something like "twelve stone two", meaning twelve stones, two pounds, or 170 pounds. This is still the exclusive system used today in the UK. A hundredweight (abbreviated to cwt--always lower case for some reason), is one hundred pounds. Why that one is so complicated when all the other UK measurements are so simple, I have no idea. The use of cwt has dwindled to virtually nothing now, mostly because weight (with the exception of the weight of human beings) is metric, so as not to mix the two different systems. I guess a hundredweight equaling a hundred pounds was too complicated. Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture Industry professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and Christmas Tree Farmers of Ontario _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From wmpless at iprimus.ca Sun Oct 25 11:04:21 2009 From: wmpless at iprimus.ca (Wiard Pless) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 14:04:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Free wheeling def. Message-ID: <4AE49325.5010308@iprimus.ca> Hi, there was also in the 50's DKWs - now part of Audi/VW, also with 2-stroke engines, with such a feature. Don't know the technical details but under the dash you had a lever allowing you to set engine/clutch to freewheeling. Wiard From bjzwissler at gmail.com Sun Oct 25 11:41:47 2009 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 14:41:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Windshield Installation Message-ID: <4AE49BEB.4040400@gmail.com> I'm about to install my windshield glass on my TR4A and I'm looking for advice on whether to use sealant and what type of sealant to use. There was sealant between the glass and seal on the old seal, but its not obvious that there was sealant between the seal and the frame. Also, when I asked my local auto body supply shop for sealant, the only thing they had was a urethane sealant in a caulking tube for "modern" windshields where no rubber seal is used. Assuming sealant was used, what type of sealant have people had success with? I'm tempted to just not use any since I won't be driving regularly in the rain anyway. Of course, planning doesn't always stop the rain.... Thanks for any advice. Ben...... -- Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 From rdowdy at verizon.net Sun Oct 25 12:55:05 2009 From: rdowdy at verizon.net (Robert Dowdy) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:55:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: <0KS3002PO5ZW2JL1@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> test From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sun Oct 25 14:38:27 2009 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 16:38:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Windshield Installation In-Reply-To: <4AE49BEB.4040400@gmail.com> References: <4AE49BEB.4040400@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4AE4C553.8030104@blacksburg.net> On 10/25/2009 1:41 PM, Ben Zwissler wrote: > I'm about to install my windshield glass on my TR4A and I'm > looking for advice on whether to use sealant and what type of sealant > to use. There was sealant between the glass and seal on the old seal, > but its not obvious that there was sealant between the seal and the > frame. Also, when I asked my local auto body supply shop for sealant, > the only thing they had was a urethane sealant in a caulking tube for > "modern" windshields where no rubber seal is used. Assuming sealant > was used, what type of sealant have people had success with? > > I'm tempted to just not use any since I won't be driving regularly in > the rain anyway. Of course, planning doesn't always stop the rain.... Ben, I used blue RTV (car is blue) on mine. Even tho I used it sparingly it still squeezed out and made an unsightly mess with which I'm still dealing (when there's nothing else to do... hahaha). I believe the seal is snug enough to warrant omitting the sealant. That said, if your seal leaks, this discussion never took place. jim -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Oct 25 15:21:52 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 18:21:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Windshield Installation In-Reply-To: <4AE49BEB.4040400@gmail.com> References: <4AE49BEB.4040400@gmail.com> Message-ID: <200910251821.53699.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 25 October 2009 02:41:47 pm Ben Zwissler wrote: > I'm about to install my windshield glass on my TR4A and I'm looking > for advice on whether to use sealant and what type of sealant to use. > There was sealant between the glass and seal on the old seal, but its > not obvious that there was sealant between the seal and the frame. > Also, when I asked my local auto body supply shop for sealant, the only > thing they had was a urethane sealant in a caulking tube for "modern" > windshields where no rubber seal is used. Assuming sealant was used, > what type of sealant have people had success with? > > I'm tempted to just not use any since I won't be driving regularly in > the rain anyway. Of course, planning doesn't always stop the rain.... > > Thanks for any advice. > > Ben...... Ben, I had the professionals install both my TR4 and TR6 windshields using new glass and rubber seal from TRF. For a cost of 80 $ each, I just couldn't see trying to install the glass myself + install the plastic - chrome piece. They only used the rubber seal + the chrome - plastic piece, no goop etc. The 6 is still a work in progress but the 4 has seen gale force storms at least twice since I finished the restoration driving between 55 and 60. I have to say that absolutely no rain found it's way into the interior of the car. This includes from the window sides as the original AMCO top seals just fine all around. Big difference between my 3 and the 4 as far as rain is concerned! Both the 4 and 6 seemed to have some black sealant in the channel where the rubber seal goes but I don't believe it is required. Also, unless you are an "expert", I would advise you take the frame, glass, seal + the plastic chrome piece down to your local auto glass shop and have them do the job. Bob From triumph.driver at gmail.com Sun Oct 25 17:03:07 2009 From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 20:03:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Windshield Installation In-Reply-To: <200910251821.53699.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <4AE49BEB.4040400@gmail.com> <200910251821.53699.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <581D040FCEF64B16AAA9213B6F0EF2A5@chuck> On Sunday 25 October 2009 02:41:47 pm Ben Zwissler wrote: > I'm about to install my windshield glass on my TR4A and I'm > looking for advice on whether to use sealant and what type of sealant to use. > There was sealant between the glass and seal on the old seal, but its > not obvious that there was sealant between the seal and the frame. > Also, when I asked my local auto body supply shop for sealant, the > only thing they had was a urethane sealant in a caulking tube for "modern" > windshields where no rubber seal is used. Assuming sealant was used, > what type of sealant have people had success with? > > I'm tempted to just not use any since I won't be driving regularly in > the rain anyway. Of course, planning doesn't always stop the rain.... > > Thanks for any advice. > > Ben...... Ben, I've helped Mark Macy of Macy's Garage install at least 4 or 5 TR4/4A windshields and we've never needed any additional sealant. We've never been made aware of any leaks afterwards. Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Oct 25 17:32:37 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 19:32:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <0KS3002PO5ZW2JL1@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> References: <0KS3002PO5ZW2JL1@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: Do I pass??? I really did study! Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > From: rdowdy at verizon.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:55:05 -0400 > Subject: [TR] test > > test > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sun Oct 25 18:03:07 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 18:03:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: References: <0KS3002PO5ZW2JL1@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <728949.90357.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Yep, U pas ________________________________ From: Rich White To: rdowdy at verizon.net; TR owners List Sent: Sun, October 25, 2009 5:32:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] test Do I pass??? I really did study! Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > From: rdowdy at verizon.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:55:05 -0400 > Subject: [TR] test > > test > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Oct 25 18:35:37 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 18:35:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] dead Message-ID: <667557.64231.qm@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> when that "click" happens to me its usually dirty battery posts................or occasionally solenoid. I'd probably check all connections first.......make sure they're clean and making contact. Also check grounding. gary n. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 25 18:50:05 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 18:50:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] dead In-Reply-To: <667557.64231.qm@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20091026015005387.DCNO2056@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > I'd probably check all > connections first.......make sure they're clean and making > contact. Also check grounding. FWIW, this happened to the wife's Toyota just the other day. Apparently, when AAA replaced the battery for her, they also replaced one of the battery clamps with a 'universal' clamp. But for some reason, the bolts holding the clamp to the cable weren't tight enough. Randall From mark at bradakis.com Sun Oct 25 19:22:03 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 20:22:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <728949.90357.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <0KS3002PO5ZW2JL1@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> <728949.90357.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4AE507CB.5080605@bradakis.com> > Yep, U pas > > Are basic english composition skills really that far removed from today's society? mjb. From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sun Oct 25 19:29:58 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 19:29:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <4AE507CB.5080605@bradakis.com> References: <0KS3002PO5ZW2JL1@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> <728949.90357.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <4AE507CB.5080605@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <707819.79187.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Mark, Just having some fun, and by the way, "English" is always capitalized. Your test did come through loud and clear. Pat ________________________________ From: Mark J Bradakis To: TR owners List Sent: Sun, October 25, 2009 7:22:03 PM Subject: Re: [TR] test > Yep, U pas > > Are basic english composition skills really that far removed from today's society? mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From mark at bradakis.com Sun Oct 25 20:20:52 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 21:20:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <707819.79187.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <0KS3002PO5ZW2JL1@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> <728949.90357.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <4AE507CB.5080605@bradakis.com> <707819.79187.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4AE51594.7020304@bradakis.com> P Caffrey wrote: > Mark, > Just having some fun, and by the way, "English" is always capitalized. Actually my initial comment on this test was going to be something along the lines of 'you past' but I kept reading my inbox before responding. A few messages further down was a reply to one of my comments regarding a Youtube cooking video. Wow. That was really the message that set me off regarding basic reading and writing skills. And I did check the sender's home page - English is that poster's first language from what I can see. Anyway, as list admin, I do often wonder why folks have to send test messages, what sort of problems are they having? mjb. From pethier at comcast.net Sun Oct 25 20:19:16 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 03:19:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] free wheel def In-Reply-To: <3C3F18B08A994085A3A48B8CA520A5F5@user43e68274ae> Message-ID: <1676670774.455811256527156443.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Bingo. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "jim" wrote: > From: "jim" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 4:41:39 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] free wheel def > > Another thing we were told about the Saab free wheel was that when > decending a > hill with the engine providing braking and a closed throttle, engine > lubrication was greatly reduced. This was because before the V-4 > engine they > used a 3 cylinder 2 stroke. Oil was mixed with gas of course. It > seemed to > make sense at the time. > Jim Fuller From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Mon Oct 26 06:49:52 2009 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 06:49:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] free wheel def Message-ID: <965287.18331.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I once had a 1934 Plymouth that had free wheeling, but it had been disabled because it was considered dangerous. There was a large knob in the middle of the dash which, when pulled, engaged the free wheeling. I had cut the cable about three inches from the knob and put the knob and remaining cable back in to cover the hole. When I had passengers, it was lots of fun to pull that knob out and holler "Oh, Damn". So you see; the free wheeling was useful in other ways. That was an old car when I had it, I'm old but not THAT old! John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '78 Spitfire '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (getting body work) '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway. From jmcoh at comcast.net Mon Oct 26 07:27:51 2009 From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 10:27:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] free wheel def In-Reply-To: <965287.18331.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <965287.18331.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004b01ca5648$80581250$810836f0$@net> I had a 1972 SAAB 95 wagon that had the free wheel feature. It was a T handle located on the firewall just under the dash. My understanding of the free wheel was always that it was less about engine lubrication and more about driving on snow and ice in a front wheel drive car. When going down a steep hill on snow in a lower gear, there was the chance of the front wheels sliding and causing loss of control. The free wheel prevented this by disengaging the wheels from the transmission when you were coasting. For those of us in snow country the car was a legend. I have many fond memories of plowing into a turn on a snow covered road under full power, using the e-brake to steer the rear wheels through the turn. John Cohen Rutland, VT 76 TR6 From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Oct 26 07:49:48 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 07:49:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Windshield Installation In-Reply-To: <4AE4C553.8030104@blacksburg.net> References: <4AE49BEB.4040400@gmail.com> <4AE4C553.8030104@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: Pay a Pro ... not expensive >On 10/25/2009 1:41 PM, Ben Zwissler wrote: >> I'm about to install my windshield glass on my TR4A and I'm >>looking for advice on whether to use sealant and what type of >>sealant to use. There was sealant between the glass and seal on >>the old seal, but its not obvious that there was sealant between >>the seal and the frame. Also, when I asked my local auto body >>supply shop for sealant, the only thing they had was a urethane >>sealant in a caulking tube for "modern" windshields where no rubber >>seal is used. Assuming sealant was used, what type of sealant have >>people had success with? -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Oct 26 07:58:35 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 14:58:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] test results. In-Reply-To: <0KS3002PO5ZW2JL1@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> References: <0KS3002PO5ZW2JL1@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: You fail. Best regards, Tom > From: rdowdy at verizon.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:55:05 -0400 > Subject: [TR] test > > test > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows 7: Simplify your PC. Learn more. http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMT AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen1:102009 From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Oct 26 08:18:31 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 08:18:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tools Message-ID: Not all apply to LBCs, but I am sure you will recognize many of them DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh, shit!" SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. Son of a b*tch TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "Son of a bitch" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need. -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From bob at texmog.com Mon Oct 26 09:53:29 2009 From: bob at texmog.com (bob at texmog.com) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 11:53:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Leak Message-ID: <3A81CCD2611F4B7B870249251613BB61@CARROOM> What am I doing wrong? I rebuilt my TR3 engine last spring. Having experienced problems with the oil pan leaking in the past, I attempted to take extra pre-cautions to prevent another stained garage floor. On completion the engine was dry, displaying no oil leaks what so ever. After breaking in the engine I took a 3500 mile trip and by the time I got home I again had major leaks. Using a dye from NAPA I have traced the leaks down to three major areas: Front flange and rear flange of the oil pan and the Fuel pump. On the fuel pump, the oil is leaking out a weep hole under the diaphragm just behind the hand lever pivot. On the pan leaks I have double checked that the oil is not coming from the timing chain cover or the rear seal ( removal of the bell housing plate shows a clean flywheel with no signs of oil on it) When I installed the pan I did the following 1. made sure that the flange was flat and hammered down any bolt holes which were mushroomed. 2. Made my own gasket which is wider that the ones in the kits using a rubberized gasket paper from NAPA 3. Used Permatex gray sealant on the pan and after placing the gasket on the pan placed the pan with the gasket face down on a thick piece of glass to dry. 4. Installed the Pan on the block using the same sealant. 5. Torqued the pan to 18-20 foot lbs Any suggestions as to why it is now leaking again? Any suggestions as to a fix for the fuel pump leak? I would note that I had the Mains line bored but failed to have them resurface the bottom of the block. This as resulted in a step of a couple thou between the cap and the block. Seems to me that the sealant would have no problem handling that type of gap. Also the engine runs beautifully with no signs of excessive crank case pressure ( uses a draft tube not PVC valve) Thanks for any help Bob PS Any reason not to use a cork gasket on the oil pan ? . From dkspence at telus.net Mon Oct 26 12:33:06 2009 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 13:33:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It's a Triumph? On 26-Oct-09, at 1:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Any suggestions as to why it is now leaking again? Any suggestions > as to a > fix for the fuel pump leak? From smacsjunk at hotmail.com Mon Oct 26 15:14:45 2009 From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 17:14:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition In-Reply-To: <6A9ED3A0F6F54448A1DEFF9FA64AF64F@bboffice> References: Message-ID: As Tim pointed out, a loonie is a Canadian one dollar coin, with a picture of the queen on one side and a picture of a loon on the reverse. A toonie is the two dollar coin showing the queen with a bare behind (appologies to all royalists - for those that haven't seen a toonie, the reverse picture is of a polar bear - and spelling never was my long suit). cheers Scott > From: wbeech at flash.net > > BTW, you can explain Loonies & Toonnies while you are at it. > > _________________________________________________________________ Ready for a deal-of-a-lifetime? See fantastic offers on Windows 7, in one convenient place. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691634 From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Oct 26 15:15:01 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 22:15:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Jake Brake: was 'free wheeling' In-Reply-To: <1676670774.455811256527156443.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <997518891.2635441256595301343.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Flip side of free wheeling.B My uncles and father in the logging business used something they called a "jake brake" to slow them on steep grades coming out of the mountains with a load of logs.B I kinda understood this as shutting down the valves in a diesel engine, so that engine compression did the work of brakes, so even the water-cooled brakes on a truck would not overheat. This close to being right? Obligatory TR content:B Who could live without TR valve clatter???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From mlang99 at comcast.net Mon Oct 26 14:17:16 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 14:17:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4AE611DC.6080203@comcast.net> 2500 miles on my TR3 rebuild and no leaks so far. I used Hylomar on the pan gasket and no special care during installation other than making sure that the surface was flat. There is a seal around the push rod in the fuel pump that keeps oil out of the vent hole and fuel out of the oil (in the event of a leaky diaphram). It may be missing or defective. The fuel pump rebuild kit that I bought from TRF included a new seal. I did take some special care in fitting the road draft tube to the block. I have read that this is a common place for leaks to occur. Mike Don Spence wrote: > It's a Triumph? > > > On 26-Oct-09, at 1:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > >> Any suggestions as to why it is now leaking again? Any suggestions >> as to a >> fix for the fuel pump leak? From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Oct 26 15:22:32 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 18:22:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Windshield Installation In-Reply-To: References: <4AE49BEB.4040400@gmail.com> <4AE4C553.8030104@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <8CC24A1F1F9C93E-26D0-B1C4@webmail-d072.sysops.aol.com> I agree, with one caveat. Some glass companies will not install your glass unless you release them from any liability should they damage the glass since they have no way of knowing the quality of the glass that you have purchased. Or, they will install it, but no guarantee it unless they source the glass. Helps to have a friend who works at a glass company. The last time I had glass installed was in my Uncle's 03 MINI. When I asked my friend and his co-worker if they were going to lunch after they finished they said that they were at lunch and that if asked, they had never been there! Aaron -----Original Message----- From: Bill To: J.C. Hassall ; Ben Zwissler Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Oct 26, 2009 10:49 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Windshield Installation Pay a Pro ... not expensive >On 10/25/2009 1:41 PM, Ben Zwissler wrote: >> I'm about to install my windshield glass on my TR4A and I'm >>looking for advice on whether to use sealant and what type of >>sealant to use. There was sealant between the glass and seal on >>the old seal, but its not obvious that there was sealant between >>the seal and the frame. Also, when I asked my local auto body >>supply shop for sealant, the only thing they had was a urethane >>sealant in a caulking tube for "modern" windshields where no rubber >>seal is used. Assuming sealant was used, what type of sealant have >>people had success with? -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 26 16:46:32 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 16:46:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak In-Reply-To: <4AE611DC.6080203@comcast.net> References: <4AE611DC.6080203@comcast.net> Message-ID: > There is a seal around the push rod in the fuel pump that > keeps oil out of the vent hole and fuel out of the oil (in > the event of a leaky diaphram). It may be missing or > defective. The fuel pump rebuild kit that I bought from TRF > included a new seal. Just to expand on that a bit, those seals were not included in the rebuild kits for a long time. IIRC, even the kit I got in an 'AC' box didn't have it. (I found an old brake cylinder seal to use instead.) I also recently got a kit from TRF that included the seal; but perhaps other vendors are still selling kits without the seal. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 26 16:55:01 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 16:55:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Jake Brake: was 'free wheeling' In-Reply-To: <997518891.2635441256595301343.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1676670774.455811256527156443.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <997518891.2635441256595301343.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <40C9550814974AC7888BCA0ED8972E01@jdnet.deere.com> > This close to being right? Close, except for the water-cooled part. As I understand it, the classic "Jake Brake" was an extra exhaust valve that opened at TDC after the compression stroke, releasing the compressed air in the cylinder so the engine would absorb energy both to compress the air (before the valve opened) and to pull a vacuum during what would normally be the power stroke. They make a lot of noise in the exhaust, and have been banned in many communities; hence the signs one occasionally sees saying "No compression braking" or "No Jake brakes". However, "Jake Brake" is a brand name, and that company offers many newer designs that aren't as noisy, so there has been a certain amount of controversy on the subject. -- Randall From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Mon Oct 26 17:18:30 2009 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 17:18:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak In-Reply-To: References: <4AE611DC.6080203@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000301ca569b$03cd3460$0b679d20$@rr.com> I seem to recall a few years ago that Justin Wagner was developing a silicone gasket for oil pans. Did that ever happen? Johnnie > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 4:47 PM > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Oil pan leak > > > There is a seal around the push rod in the fuel pump that > > keeps oil out of the vent hole and fuel out of the oil (in > > the event of a leaky diaphram). It may be missing or > > defective. The fuel pump rebuild kit that I bought from TRF > > included a new seal. > > Just to expand on that a bit, those seals were not included in the > rebuild > kits for a long time. IIRC, even the kit I got in an 'AC' box didn't > have > it. (I found an old brake cylinder seal to use instead.) > > I also recently got a kit from TRF that included the seal; but perhaps > other > vendors are still selling kits without the seal. > > -- Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From mdporter at dfn.com Mon Oct 26 17:31:16 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 18:31:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] Jake Brake: was 'free wheeling' In-Reply-To: <40C9550814974AC7888BCA0ED8972E01@jdnet.deere.com> References: <1676670774.455811256527156443.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <997518891.2635441256595301343.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <40C9550814974AC7888BCA0ED8972E01@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <4AE63F54.8000009@dfn.com> Randall wrote: >> This close to being right? >> > > However, "Jake Brake" is a brand name, and that company offers many newer > designs that aren't as noisy, so there has been a certain amount of > controversy on the subject. > > The water-cooled braking referred to was probably a water-powered retarder, which were commonly attached to the third member on early trucks, and operated much like a water-powered dynamometer. Today, with electronic diesel injection, Jakes are often external to the engine--a strong solenoid actuates a plate that closes off the exhaust, with the same signal turning on the solenoid shutting off the injectors. The effect is much the same, and noise, while still considerable, is muffled by the air cleaner, since the air entering the engine is shunted back up through the intake. Most auxiliary braking today is done with retarders on the transmission, operating somewhat like the old water brakes, but using, instead, ATF under pressure as the medium between oppositely rotating sets of vanes at the trans output. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Oct 26 17:41:25 2009 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 20:41:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Question about shimming the distributor pedistal on a TR4A Message-ID: <6F7D62ECEEAA4D138DEFA99A6B9425B0@DaveLaptop> Hi, I am having trouble locating shims to adjust the end play in my distributor drive. I read in the manual that I am supposed to stack a known thickness spacer under the drive and measure the total clearance off the block and then install the appropriate shim thickness to get to the nominal value. Not too hard, but nobody sells the shims that I am aware of. Actually, I can't remember removing any when I took it apart. So, do it just buy some shim stock and make my own? Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 26 18:33:28 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 18:33:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Question about shimming the distributor pedistal on a TR4A In-Reply-To: <6F7D62ECEEAA4D138DEFA99A6B9425B0@DaveLaptop> References: <6F7D62ECEEAA4D138DEFA99A6B9425B0@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <934DCB5D9EB349D79B38AA705D55FBB7@jdnet.deere.com> > Actually, I can't remember removing any when I took it apart. Which very likely means you don't need any. Most of them don't, by now, unless someone has replaced the bushing in the block. The SPC implies that "gaskets" (P/N 125251) are to be used to adjust the end float. TRF has them listed for $.75 (or you could certainly make your own). -- Randall From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Oct 26 18:46:27 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 21:46:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] play in steering rack Message-ID: <44C9D565932F47BA97B55FFD178E8894@Alan> I have pretty much finished my rebuild on a TR6. I had to replace the steering rack with another used one. The steering wheel has to turn a few degrees before the rack will move the tires. Is there anyway to tighten up this play? The moss catalog shows a shim under the bolt where the gound wire attaches to the rack below the universal joint that hold the lower steering column. Will putting in a shim tighten it up. Thanks, Al Pics of TR6 project at http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/?newest=1 From mark at bradakis.com Mon Oct 26 18:57:42 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 19:57:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] play in steering rack In-Reply-To: <44C9D565932F47BA97B55FFD178E8894@Alan> References: <44C9D565932F47BA97B55FFD178E8894@Alan> Message-ID: <4AE65396.1080004@bradakis.com> Are you sure the mounts are tight and secure? Does the rack move sideways any when you turn the steering wheel? mjb. From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Oct 26 19:00:30 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 22:00:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Windshield Installation In-Reply-To: References: <4AE49BEB.4040400@gmail.com> <4AE4C553.8030104@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <3F485EA3B83846F58050D1B771DC8B15@Scott> I had posted some questions about doing my glazing for the '59 TR3 and received a lot of good advice, including farming it out to the experts. Well, I ended up doing all of it myself and it actually wasn't too bad once I figured out how to do the upper 2/3rds of the windshield (note, bar clamps made the job easy). Anyway, before a mustered up the courage, I called no less than 7 auto glass shops in the Harrisburg area and not a one would do it and 3 didn't even know what I was talking about! Times they are a changing... Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 10:50 AM To: J.C. Hassall; Ben Zwissler Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Windshield Installation Pay a Pro ... not expensive From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Mon Oct 26 19:47:53 2009 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 22:47:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi Scott: Ha ha! I always thought they made a mistake in calling it a toonie instead of a Doubloon. Cheers, Mark -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of scotts junk Sent: October 26, 2009 6:15 PM To: wbeech at flash.net; kingscreektrees at aol.com; wsb1960tr3a at att.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Brit Money Definition As Tim pointed out, a loonie is a Canadian one dollar coin, with a picture of the queen on one side and a picture of a loon on the reverse. A toonie is the two dollar coin showing the queen with a bare behind (appologies to all royalists - for those that haven't seen a toonie, the reverse picture is of a polar bear - and spelling never was my long suit). cheers Scott > From: wbeech at flash.net > > BTW, you can explain Loonies & Toonnies while you are at it. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 26 20:02:47 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 20:02:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] play in steering rack In-Reply-To: <44C9D565932F47BA97B55FFD178E8894@Alan> Message-ID: <20091027030247725.RRYQ2056@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > Will putting in a shim tighten it up. That depends entirely on whether that is where the play is, or not. If the problem is excessive rack/pinion clearance, then I believe you remove shims to decrease it. But if that isn't where the play is, or if the play is caused because the rack is worn, then removing shims will only mess things up and could be dangerous. (Imagine the steering suddenly binding while you are driving.) I'm not sure how the adjustment procedure goes on a TR6, but on a Stag you remove the small bolt (where the ground lug goes) and poke a dial indicator through the hole to measure the lash. Again for a Stag, there are also shims in the inner tie rod ends to adjust the lash at that point. The "rebuilt" rack I bought proved to have been improperly assembled, which resulted in a huge amount of slop in one of the inner tie rod ends. That said, I agree with Mark, I'd look first at where the rack is mounted to the chassis. ISTR there is a special tool that is supposed to be used to force the clamps outward against the rubber bushings, which apparently no one uses. I cobbled up a makeshift tool from a wooden carpenter's clamp when we assembled a friend's TR6, and he said it did wonders for the steering play. Randall From llst at shaw.ca Mon Oct 26 23:27:11 2009 From: llst at shaw.ca (LT) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 23:27:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Windshield Installation Message-ID: <4AE692BF.4010908@shaw.ca> On 10/25/2009 1:41 PM, Ben Zwissler wrote: > > I'm about to install my windshield glass on my TR4A and I'm > > looking for advice on whether to use sealant and what type of sealant > > to use. There was sealant between the glass and seal on the old seal, > > but its not obvious that there was sealant between the seal and the > > frame. I installed my Spitfire windshield without any sealants about 7 or 8 years ago and am happy to advise that I also have had no leaks at all. But then the car hasn't been out of the garage in 7 or 8 years either and my wife will support my claim. Larry From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Tue Oct 27 04:54:45 2009 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 12:54:45 +0100 Subject: [TR] Brit Money Definition References: Message-ID: <254818ADB4734EA78B1BFB1703E96B81@Study> Having lived for so many years with "old money" (such a simple system) I am inclined to think that your uncle's purchase came to 12s 4d. Or Twelve shillings and fourpence. The shopkeeper was taking advantage as so many did when the new currency was introduced. ISTR that lots of things that were 5d in old money suddely became 5p ( i.e. 12d) the following day! By the way I think racehorses are still sold in Guineas and one or two of the grander auction houses still sell in them too. We often referred to five shillings as a dollar. That was in the days when the exchange rate was fixed at $4 to a pound! David Brister 1967 TR4A made in #'s s d, or LSD as we used to call it. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 27008 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From kinneyjr at msn.com Tue Oct 27 06:52:52 2009 From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 09:52:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak Message-ID: I am getting ready to install a new oil pan gasket. What would you guys prefer to add to the gasket? Wellseal, Hylomar, or Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant? TIA, Jeremy '66 TR4A _________________________________________________________________ Windows 7: It works the way you want. Learn more. http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMT AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen2:102009 From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Tue Oct 27 07:31:26 2009 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 10:31:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] play in steering rack Message-ID: My TR4 had a worn pinion gear. I was forced to investigate when the steering would bind up in the middle of a turn. As you might guess, the wear is in the straight ahead postion. I only replaced the pinion as the rack seemed to be OK. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Oct 27 08:28:42 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:28:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Leak In-Reply-To: <3A81CCD2611F4B7B870249251613BB61@CARROOM> References: <3A81CCD2611F4B7B870249251613BB61@CARROOM> Message-ID: I cured my oil pan leaks by installing the gasket with black RTV. This is a silicone gasket maker. I only used the RTV on the area outside of the bolt holes to prevent it from getting into my oil system. No more leaks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Windows 7: Simplify your PC. Learn more. http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMT AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen1:102009 From akgraves at cox.net Tue Oct 27 09:14:28 2009 From: akgraves at cox.net (akgraves at cox.net) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 12:14:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Question about shimming the distributor pedistal on a TR4A Message-ID: <20091027121428.C7QLF.500447.imail@eastrmwml33> Dave, The head (upper engine) gasket set for a TR6 includes the distributor shims you speak of. They are paper and look like thermostat gaskets. Perhaps the TR4A gasket set includes these as well. Or, as another lister mentioned, you could buy them separately. Art Graves 1976 TR6 1985 Jaguar XJ6 Tulsa, OK From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Oct 27 09:19:51 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 12:19:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Jake Brake: was 'free wheeling' In-Reply-To: <40C9550814974AC7888BCA0ED8972E01@jdnet.deere.com> References: <1676670774.455811256527156443.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <997518891.2635441256595301343.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > However, "Jake Brake" is a brand name, and that company offers many newer > designs that aren't as noisy, so there has been a certain amount of > controversy on the subject. > > -- Randall I heard that "Jake" is short for Jacobs, the same outfit that made radial engines for aircraft use. Used in the Cessna "Bamboo Bomber" and 195, that I can think of offhand. John H. From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Oct 27 09:43:40 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 12:43:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] play in steering rack In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20091027124340.CUZ96825@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Allen Hess wrote: > I only replaced the pinion as the rack seemed to be OK. Is that a good idea? Some would argue it's a matter of opinion. -- Jim Muller From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 27 09:46:09 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 09:46:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > What > would you guys prefer to add to the gasket? Hylomar -- Randall From leejohn7 at gmail.com Tue Oct 27 10:18:24 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 10:18:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak In-Reply-To: <000301ca569b$03cd3460$0b679d20$@rr.com> References: <4AE611DC.6080203@comcast.net> <000301ca569b$03cd3460$0b679d20$@rr.com> Message-ID: If Justin isn't listening, I can report that I just recently asked him about the oil pan gasket when I ordered a valve cover gasket. He said that the oil pan variety would be too expensive to manufacture to offer at a reasonable cost. John Howard On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 5:18 PM, John & Pat Donnelly wrote: > I seem to recall a few years ago that Justin Wagner was developing a > silicone gasket for oil pans. Did that ever happen? > > Johnnie > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- > > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall > > Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 4:47 PM > > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [TR] Oil pan leak > > > > > There is a seal around the push rod in the fuel pump that > > > keeps oil out of the vent hole and fuel out of the oil (in > > > the event of a leaky diaphram). It may be missing or > > > defective. The fuel pump rebuild kit that I bought from TRF > > > included a new seal. > > > > Just to expand on that a bit, those seals were not included in the > > rebuild > > kits for a long time. IIRC, even the kit I got in an 'AC' box didn't > > have > > it. (I found an old brake cylinder seal to use instead.) > > > > I also recently got a kit from TRF that included the seal; but perhaps > > other > > vendors are still selling kits without the seal. > > > > -- Randall > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 27 10:26:45 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 13:26:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] play in steering rack In-Reply-To: <20091027124340.CUZ96825@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20091027124340.CUZ96825@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <8CC2541CA93BC5B-4CF4-5EB2@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Is that a good idea? Some would argue it's a matter of opinion. For that I sentence you to the rack. And then, the comfy chair. Dave From mark at bradakis.com Tue Oct 27 10:37:14 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 11:37:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] play in steering rack In-Reply-To: <8CC2541CA93BC5B-4CF4-5EB2@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> References: <20091027124340.CUZ96825@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> <8CC2541CA93BC5B-4CF4-5EB2@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4AE72FCA.1010705@bradakis.com> Why is it some topics are easily steered in new directions? mjb. From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Tue Oct 27 10:47:55 2009 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 18:47:55 +0100 Subject: [TR] Libra, was Brit Money Definition References: <4AE370D3.18165.1F2CEBC8@localhost> Message-ID: <391276DAAFD649E8AAE2AEC70B6834F6@Study> I believe I remember from Latin at school that lb is an abbreviation of the Roman word Libra which was a measure of weight, no idea how much! We could get into bushels, pecks, rod pole or perch, imperial gallons, gills, or perhaps cables and furlongs but Heaven forbid that we should get so off message on a Triumph list! YMMV David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 27025 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From mdporter at dfn.com Tue Oct 27 11:05:17 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 12:05:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] Jake Brake: was 'free wheeling' In-Reply-To: References: <1676670774.455811256527156443.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <997518891.2635441256595301343.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4AE7365D.1010008@dfn.com> John Herrera wrote: >> However, "Jake Brake" is a brand name, and that company offers many newer >> designs that aren't as noisy, so there has been a certain amount of >> controversy on the subject. >> >> -- Randall >> > > > > > I heard that "Jake" is short for Jacobs, the same outfit that made radial > engines for aircraft use. Used in the Cessna "Bamboo Bomber" and 195, that I > can think of offhand. > > > > Umm, there have been several Jacobs in various manufacturing enterprises (Marcellus Jacobs making early large capacity wind turbines, for example), but, I don't think there was a business relationship between Jacobs Aircraft Engine Co. (started in 1929 by, I think, Al Jacobs), and Jacobs Manufacturing (started in 1902 by A.I. Jacobs), a division of which eventually built the original Jake Brake (the Jake Brake was sort of a misnomer--while Jacobs built it, the first compression release brake was originally designed by Clessie Cummins of Cummins Engine). Jacobs Vehicle Systems was spun off by Jacobs Manufacturing around the late `50s and began to market the brake in 1961 (and is now a subsidiary of Danaher Corp.), while Jacobs Manufacturing continued with its core business, a bit more mundane, but very familiar, item--the Jacobs three-jaw drill chuck (Jacobs Mfg. is now a subsidiary of Goliath, with its main manufacturing facility in Alabama). Jacobs Aircraft Engine Co., meanwhile, had a pretty short life span--its heyday was WWII--and by the end of the war had been bought out by Republic Industries. The engine tooling was transferred to Republic and all of its other equipment auctioned off and its Pottstown, PA, plant closed and sold. "Shaky Jake" didn't last too long. There's almost no corporate history around on the Jacobs Aircraft Engine Co. It's possible that A.I. (Arthur Irving) Jacobs and Al Jacobs were related, but, I'm fairly sure that the companies were not. The last evolution of the Jacobs radial, the R-755, was adapted for use in helicopters and Page Industries in Oklahoma eventually obtained the rights to that series as a helicopter powerplant. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From michael.stenhouse at c2i.net Tue Oct 27 11:32:03 2009 From: michael.stenhouse at c2i.net (STEN) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 19:32:03 +0100 Subject: [TR] MOHAVE In-Reply-To: <254818ADB4734EA78B1BFB1703E96B81@Study> References: <254818ADB4734EA78B1BFB1703E96B81@Study> Message-ID: <019c01ca5733$c81ec9d0$585c5d70$@stenhouse@c2i.net> Hi, Does anybody live near Mohave? Best Regards, Michael In Norway From boggiano at charter.net Tue Oct 27 11:37:27 2009 From: boggiano at charter.net (Tom Boggiano) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 14:37:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak References: <4AE611DC.6080203@comcast.net><000301ca569b$03cd3460$0b679d20$@rr.com> Message-ID: <70381089A4DD44CC822C0501F7279771@na01.crl.com> I actually have one of Justin's prototype oil pan gaskets for the TR4. It is a very nice product. One of the things that it does do for me is make it a lot easier to drop the pan and check everything underneath. I guess it comes down to - what would it cost to manufacture and what would someone pay to have it. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee&John Howard" To: "John & Pat Donnelly" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 1:18 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Oil pan leak > If Justin isn't listening, I can report that I just recently asked him > about > the oil pan gasket when I ordered a valve cover gasket. He said that the > oil > pan variety would be too expensive to manufacture to offer at a reasonable > cost. > John Howard > > On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 5:18 PM, John & Pat Donnelly > wrote: > >> I seem to recall a few years ago that Justin Wagner was developing a >> silicone gasket for oil pans. Did that ever happen? >> >> Johnnie >> >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- >> > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall >> > Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 4:47 PM >> > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >> > Subject: Re: [TR] Oil pan leak >> > >> > > There is a seal around the push rod in the fuel pump that >> > > keeps oil out of the vent hole and fuel out of the oil (in >> > > the event of a leaky diaphram). It may be missing or >> > > defective. The fuel pump rebuild kit that I bought from TRF >> > > included a new seal. >> > >> > Just to expand on that a bit, those seals were not included in the >> > rebuild >> > kits for a long time. IIRC, even the kit I got in an 'AC' box didn't >> > have >> > it. (I found an old brake cylinder seal to use instead.) >> > >> > I also recently got a kit from TRF that included the seal; but perhaps >> > other >> > vendors are still selling kits without the seal. >> > >> > -- Randall >> > _______________________________________________ >> > >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > >> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> > http://www.vtr.org >> > >> > >> > Triumphs at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> > >> > >> > http://www.team.net/archive >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive
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From machinemd at msn.com  Tue Oct 27 11:57:52 2009
From: machinemd at msn.com (STEVE STERN)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 14:57:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Leak
Message-ID: 

Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Pan Leak

"I cured my oil pan leaks by installing the gasket with black RTV. This is a
silicone gasket maker. I only used the RTV on the area outside of the bolt
holes to prevent it from getting into my oil system. No more leaks."

I second it! I've been using RTV adhesive and/or gasket maker on all paper and
cork gaskets since the 70s without a leak.


Steve

From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 27 13:29:44 2009
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 13:29:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Libra, was Brit Money Definition
Message-ID: <930641.21189.qm@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- On Tue, 10/27/09, David Brister  wrote: 

We could get into bushels, pecks, rod pole or perch, imperial gallons, 
gills, or perhaps cables and furlongs but Heaven forbid that we should get 
so off message on a Triumph list!
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><
The Triumph speedo might have been calibrated in furlongs per fortnight at one time, maybe.
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><
John Young

From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Oct 27 17:51:43 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 19:51:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Leak
In-Reply-To: 
References: 
Message-ID: <20091028005200.05E6D18765A@autox.team.net>

That's what I use as well.  Permatex brand is what the local Farm and 
Fleet carries.  I still leave a trail of oil, but not from the oil pan flange.

- Tony Drews

At 01:57 PM 10/27/2009, STEVE STERN wrote:
>Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Pan Leak
>
>"I cured my oil pan leaks by installing the gasket with black RTV. This is a
>silicone gasket maker. I only used the RTV on the area outside of the bolt
>holes to prevent it from getting into my oil system. No more leaks."
>
>I second it! I've been using RTV adhesive and/or gasket maker on all paper and
>cork gaskets since the 70s without a leak.
>
>
>Steve

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Tue Oct 27 17:59:22 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 17:59:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak
In-Reply-To: 
References: 
Message-ID: <4AE7976A.4020004@comcast.net>

I would recommend the Hylomar since it has worked well on my pan gasket.
I would absolutely not use Permatex Aviation. I once spent a very long
evening on my back under a Chev 216 scraping dried Permatex Aviation off
of the bottom of the block. I wouldn't wish to do that again.

I have heard so many stories about loose strings of silicone gasket
maker plugging things up that I tend to stay away from those products.

Mike

Jeremy Kinney wrote:
> I am getting ready to install a new oil pan gasket.  What would you guys
> prefer to add to the gasket?  Wellseal, Hylomar, or Permatex Aviation
> Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant?
>
>
>
> TIA,
>
> Jeremy
>
> '66 TR4A

From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Oct 27 19:20:06 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 21:20:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak
In-Reply-To: <4AE7976A.4020004@comcast.net>
References: 
	<4AE7976A.4020004@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091028022021.47D4518765A@autox.team.net>

I make sure to put the RTV on very thinly - I use a finger and smear 
it on the gasket surface in a very thin layer to minimize the 
"strings of gasket".  Good point.  Hylomar is fine too - it's really 
intended for two surfaces without a gasket in between.  We used to 
use it at the back of a Hewland Gearbox - just aluminum to aluminum 
and a thin coat of hylomar.  It also doesn't set up (at least not for 
a LOONNNGG time).

- Tony

At 07:59 PM 10/27/2009, Michael Lang wrote:
>I would recommend the Hylomar since it has worked well on my pan gasket.
>I would absolutely not use Permatex Aviation. I once spent a very long
>evening on my back under a Chev 216 scraping dried Permatex Aviation off
>of the bottom of the block. I wouldn't wish to do that again.
>
>I have heard so many stories about loose strings of silicone gasket
>maker plugging things up that I tend to stay away from those products.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeremy Kinney wrote:
> > I am getting ready to install a new oil pan gasket.  What would you guys
> > prefer to add to the gasket?  Wellseal, Hylomar, or Permatex Aviation
> > Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant?
> >
> >
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > Jeremy
> >
> > '66 TR4A
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Oct 27 19:30:13 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 20:30:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak
In-Reply-To: <4AE7976A.4020004@comcast.net>
References: 
	<4AE7976A.4020004@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4AE7ACB5.10604@bradakis.com>

A number of years ago I was between engines, so to speak, while
autocrossing.  What I had was a 200 dollar almost a parts car
squaretail Spit.  That was actually the car I took to the Seattle
VTR convention, '93 I think it was.

Anyway, the thrust washers were toast, the crank was already
chewed up, but my  "real" engine wasn't ready.  So every
weekend before running I'd drop the pan and put in fresh
thrust washers.  It wasn't that difficult.  I used a blue Hylomar
type stuff on the pan gasket, and it came apart with no trouble,
and went back on with no trouble, no leaks.  I think it was
called Flange-Seal or Torque-Seal, can't remember, got it
from Pegasus.  It was great stuff.

Of course, on my last run at the VTR autocross I was working
on a killer run, going into the last hairpin the thrust washer
fell out, screwing up clutch action, it took maybe 0.672 seconds
for me to fumble with the shift to first, and I missed FTD by
*that* much.  If the thrust washer had waited until after that
crucial downshift....

Anyway, a pliable, non-hardening compound on a standard sump
gasket works quite well.  Spend some time making sure it is flat,
the areas around the bolt holes tend to warp and cause sealing
issues.  Hammer them flat.

mjb.

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Oct 27 22:58:43 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 23:58:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak
In-Reply-To: 
References: 
Message-ID: 

Use "The Right Stuff" gasket maker from NAPA.  Don't need the gasket  
if you use this.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Oct 27, 2009, at 7:52 AM, Jeremy Kinney wrote:

> I am getting ready to install a new oil pan gasket.  What would you  
> guys
> prefer to add to the gasket?  Wellseal, Hylomar, or Permatex Aviation
> Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant?
>
>
>
> TIA,
>
> Jeremy
>
> '66 TR4A
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows 7: It works the way you want. Learn more.
> http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMT
> AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen2:102009
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From info at classictradespace.com  Wed Oct 28 03:16:58 2009
From: info at classictradespace.com (classic trade space)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 10:16:58 -0000
Subject: [TR] Triumph Italia
Message-ID: <1B05ADBCEDD844939D7155A36AFD7814@WORLDCARS>

We have a Triumph Italia for sale if any f you are interested or want more
details please get in touch.

From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct 28 05:27:54 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 08:27:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oil pan leak
In-Reply-To: <20091028022021.47D4518765A@autox.team.net>
References: <4AE7976A.4020004@comcast.net>
	<20091028022021.47D4518765A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CC25E1358206D3-5638-14AD9@webmail-m028.sysops.aol.com>

I make sure to put the RTV on very thinly - I use a finger and smear
it on the gasket surface in a very thin layer to minimize the
"strings of gasket".  Good point.

Another tip I've heard is to assemble the parts loosely and leave them sit for
15 minutes to 1/2 hour before tightening up the bolts.  This allows the RTV to
partially set and reduces oozing.

RTV sets up by reacting with water vapor in the air.  That means that when
using it on a cooling system that still has some coolant in it be prepared for
the set up time to be dramatically reduced.  And those of you in Arizona, drag
out the swamp cooler.

Dave

From smacsjunk at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 28 11:31:43 2009
From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 13:31:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Libra, was Brit Money Definition
In-Reply-To: <930641.21189.qm@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <930641.21189.qm@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: 

> The Triumph speedo might have been calibrated in furlongs per fortnight at
one time, maybe.


Reminds me of a brit car club rally I was rallymaster for several years ago;
the penalty for entrants with non-british cars was that they were to receive
their rally instructions in furlongs, while brit cars had both miles and
kiometers on theirs.



Unfortunately it backfired - I was out of town until just before the start.
Rushed to the printers to pick up both sets of instructions then directly to
the start (in pouring rain of course). As I handed the instructions to the
last car to depart(an MG B), the navigator looked at them, grinned, looked up
at me  and shouted "You ##$%&& SOB". Dismayed at this admonishment for all my
hard work, I glanced down at the RI sheets I'd been handing out and realized
to my horror that the printer had screwed up and copied BOTH sets in furlongs.
Despite this we had only 1 lost car and the winner (with his teenage math wiz
son as navigator) only picked up 6 points  and zerod the last TSD section.



cheers

Scott

_________________________________________________________________
Save up to 84% on Windows 7 until Jan 3eligible CDN College & University
students only. Hurrybuy it now for $39.99!
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691635

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Oct 28 12:13:22 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 15:13:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for a TR4
Message-ID: 

Could the Listerati direct me to a good-quality electric fan for my TR4?

I'm planning to remove the mechanical fan and install Rick Patton's fan
eliminator kit, making room for an electric puller fan. I intend to control
the fan with an adjustable thermistat - or maybe a set on/off thermostat,
let's see what the options are.

If anyone has experience of a successful installation in their TR4 / 4A,
please lt me know.

I do not want to install the fan using the plastic lugs pushed through the
radiator vanes - and the same goes for the thermostat.

Thanks,

Brian Jones

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Oct 28 12:17:00 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 15:17:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Oil Pan Leak
In-Reply-To: 
References: 
	<20091028005200.05E6D18765A@autox.team.net>
	
Message-ID: 

I followed the method in the VTR maintenance section, except I used Permatex
to bond the gasket to the pan, left to set overnight. I then used Hylomar on
the gasket-to-block face so that I could easily get the pan off again and
had no risk of goop in the pan causing mischief.

I took care to straighten the pan lip first. My pan had been heavily
over-tightened by the DPO and his answer was to use masses of orange rubbery
goop to close the gaps on the distorted pan lip. He failed. The VTR page:
 http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-pan-gasket.shtml

Brian Jones


On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 8:51 PM, Tony Drews  wrote:

> That's what I use as well.  Permatex brand is what the local Farm and Fleet
> carries.  I still leave a trail of oil, but not from the oil pan flange.
>
> - Tony Drews
>
> At 01:57 PM 10/27/2009, STEVE STERN wrote:
>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Pan Leak
>>
>> "I cured my oil pan leaks by installing the gasket with black RTV. This is
>> a
>> silicone gasket maker. I only used the RTV on the area outside of the bolt
>> holes to prevent it from getting into my oil system. No more leaks."
>>
>> I second it! I've been using RTV adhesive and/or gasket maker on all paper
>> and
>> cork gaskets since the 70s without a leak.
>>
>>
>> Steve
>>
>  _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Wed Oct 28 14:19:44 2009
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 17:19:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for a TR4
In-Reply-To: 
References: 
Message-ID: <8CC262B7FC7EB1F-2318-4C29@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com>

 Brian,

I have an electric fan installed on my TR6.  I used the plastic pieces pushed
through the radiator and have had no problems over the last 4 years.  The
bottom of the fan sits on the bottom lip of the radiator so the only thing the
plastic pieces do is to hold the fan flush to the radiator.  That was an
easier solution than removing the radiator and having a bracket fabricated to
hold the fan.  I would recommend a straight on/off switch in addition to the
thermostatic switch.  It is a good fail safe in case the thermo switch decides
not to work and it is handy if you decide that you are going to be working on
the car while it is idling for a long period of time.

My two cents.

Aaron





-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Jones 
To: email list 
Sent: Wed, Oct 28, 2009 3:13 pm
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for a TR4










Could the Listerati direct me to a good-quality electric fan for my TR4?

I'm planning to remove the mechanical fan and install Rick Patton's fan
eliminator kit, making room for an electric puller fan. I intend to control
the fan with an adjustable thermistat - or maybe a set on/off thermostat,
let's see what the options are.

If anyone has experience of a successful installation in their TR4 / 4A,
please lt me know.

I do not want to install the fan using the plastic lugs pushed through the
radiator vanes - and the same goes for the thermostat.

Thanks,

Brian Jones
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Wed Oct 28 14:50:37 2009
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 14:50:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for a TR4
In-Reply-To: 
References: 
Message-ID: <1C3A4251-A4E8-4FC2-B67A-ACE747FB33FB@cox.net>

This is advise from my TR3A conversion.

Have you friendly radiator shop put a bung in your radiator that will
accept common electronic thermostats.  The only problem I have had is
that modern cars run at higher tempts & usually 1850 is the lowest you
can find in most parts stores.  Living in Phoenix I have found an
adjustable one that goes goes down as low as 1450.  I plan to use that
in the 9 months of summer & then adjust it up for our 3 months of Fall.

My radiator shop also braised on a couple L-brackets to each side to
provide an attach point or the electric fan.  While you are there have
the radiator shop install new cap neck for modern cap that will work
with overflow bottle!!  Both of these task came in for about $10-15 each

See http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/radiator.html for pictures

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/



On  28 Oct, 2009, at 12:13 PM, Brian Jones wrote:

> Could the Listerati direct me to a good-quality electric fan for my
> TR4?
>
> I'm planning to remove the mechanical fan and install Rick Patton's
> fan
> eliminator kit, making room for an electric puller fan. I intend to
> control
> the fan with an adjustable thermistat - or maybe a set on/off
> thermostat,
> let's see what the options are.
>
> If anyone has experience of a successful installation in their TR4 /
> 4A,
> please lt me know.
>
> I do not want to install the fan using the plastic lugs pushed
> through the
> radiator vanes - and the same goes for the thermostat.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian Jones
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Oct 28 14:54:19 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 21:54:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for a TR4
In-Reply-To: 
Message-ID: <1437895960.3943381256766859918.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I installed a puller fan on my TR3A and am happy I did. The side rails on a TR3 and 4 radiator hold no water (you might want to check this ;^) ) so you can mount the puller to the radiator itself. If you're pulling the radiator then while at the shop have them add a receiver for a screw in temp sensor. I got my sensor from Jegs and for me the 165 degree works better than the 185. My themistat is in the metal pipe of the radiator hose, but had to rig up a ground wire to it for it to work properly. Also, 165 because it's in the "middle" of the radiator and heat rises, etc. The fan I'm using is a "swirl" bladed, 6 bladed fan. They are supposed to move more air than the old style "straight" bladed ones. Some of the local auto stores carry them as well as on line sources. 
Any more questions or pictures needed, let me know. 
Tom 
60 TR3A 
61 TR3A 
62 TR4 
73 Stag 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Jones"  
To: "email list"  
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 3:13:22 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for a TR4 

Could the Listerati direct me to a good-quality electric fan for my TR4? 

I'm planning to remove the mechanical fan and install Rick Patton's fan 
eliminator kit, making room for an electric puller fan. I intend to control 
the fan with an adjustable thermistat - or maybe a set on/off thermostat, 
let's see what the options are. 

If anyone has experience of a successful installation in their TR4 / 4A, 
please lt me know. 

I do not want to install the fan using the plastic lugs pushed through the 
radiator vanes - and the same goes for the thermostat. 

Thanks, 

Brian Jones 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 28 15:16:41 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 15:16:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for a TR4
In-Reply-To: 
References: 
Message-ID: <84DBC61A242A4416A64019B16F76BBE3@jdnet.deere.com>

> Could the Listerati direct me to a good-quality electric fan 
> for my TR4?

I've had a Hayden fan on my TR3A for almost 20 years, and it still works
fine even after the accident.

After a conversation with my local radiator guy, I went ahead and used the
plastic ties through the core; no problems at all.  He did suggest to be
sure they go through the center between the tubes (so they can't rub on the
tubes).

He would have been happy to add fan mounts to my radiator (as well as sensor
bungs and anything else I wanted, for a price of course), but it didn't seem
worth it at the time.

If you have the early radiator with the "long reach" neck, I would suggest
having a shorter neck installed.  Gives you a much wider range of caps
available.  My shop recently charged me $18 for the neck & installation.

Just don't forget and install an original cap on the short neck 

-- Randall  

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Oct 28 15:20:16 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 18:20:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for a TR4
In-Reply-To: <8CC262B7FC7EB1F-2318-4C29@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com>
References: 
	<8CC262B7FC7EB1F-2318-4C29@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: 

Thanks Aaron,

The on-off as well is a great idea. Glad you've had no issues with the
plastic push-throughs.

Brian

On Wed, Oct 28, 2009 at 5:19 PM,  wrote:

>  Brian,
>
> I have an electric fan installed on my TR6.  I used the plastic pieces
> pushed through the radiator and have had no problems over the last 4 years.
> The bottom of the fan sits on the bottom lip of the radiator so the only
> thing the plastic pieces do is to hold the fan flush to the radiator.  That
> was an easier solution than removing the radiator and having a bracket
> fabricated to hold the fan.  I would recommend a straight on/off switch in
> addition to the thermostatic switch.  It is a good fail safe in case the
> thermo switch decides not to work and it is handy if you decide that you are
> going to be working on the car while it is idling for a long period of time.
>
> My two cents.
>
> Aaron
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian Jones 
> To: email list 
> Sent: Wed, Oct 28, 2009 3:13 pm
> Subject: [TR] Electric fan for a TR4
>
>  Could the Listerati direct me to a good-quality electric fan for my TR4?
>
>
> I'm planning to remove the mechanical fan and install Rick Patton's fan
>
> eliminator kit, making room for an electric puller fan. I intend to control
>
> the fan with an adjustable thermistat - or maybe a set on/off thermostat,
>
> let's see what the options are.
>
>
> If anyone has experience of a successful installation in their TR4 / 4A,
>
> please lt me know.
>
>
> I do not want to install the fan using the plastic lugs pushed through the
>
> radiator vanes - and the same goes for the thermostat.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Brian Jones
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Oct 28 15:37:42 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 18:37:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Electric fan for a TR4
In-Reply-To: 
References: 
	<1437895960.3943381256766859918.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	
Message-ID: 

They hold no water Tom? You were a brave chap to find out. Good to see the
thermostat at 165 works in the return pipe. What size is your fan and how
have you wired it in?

Thanks,

Brian


On Wed, Oct 28, 2009 at 5:54 PM,  wrote:

> I installed a puller fan on my TR3A and am happy I did.  The side rails on
> a TR3 and 4 radiator hold no water (you might want to check this ;^) ) so
> you can mount the puller to the radiator itself.  If you're pulling the
> radiator then while at the shop have them add a receiver for a screw in temp
> sensor. I got my sensor from Jegs and for me the 165 degree works better
> than the 185.  My themistat is in the metal pipe of the radiator hose, but
> had to rig up a ground wire to it for it to work properly.  Also, 165
> because it's in the "middle" of the radiator and heat rises, etc. The fan
> I'm using is a "swirl" bladed, 6 bladed fan. They are supposed to move more
> air than the old style "straight" bladed ones. Some of the local auto stores
> carry them as well as on line sources.
> Any more questions or pictures needed, let me know.
> Tom
> 60 TR3A
> 61 TR3A
> 62 TR4
> 73 Stag
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Jones" 
> To: "email list" 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 3:13:22 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: [TR] Electric fan for a TR4
>
> Could the Listerati direct me to a good-quality electric fan for my TR4?
>
> I'm planning to remove the mechanical fan and install Rick Patton's fan
> eliminator kit, making room for an electric puller fan. I intend to control
> the fan with an adjustable thermistat - or maybe a set on/off thermostat,
> let's see what the options are.
>
> If anyone has experience of a successful installation in their TR4 / 4A,
> please lt me know.
>
> I do not want to install the fan using the plastic lugs pushed through the
> radiator vanes - and the same goes for the thermostat.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian Jones

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Wed Oct 28 15:38:19 2009
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 18:38:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Z-S Idle Issue
Message-ID: <52691F4ACA4F4C598ACB683645503DFE@4NutballsPC>

What would be the likely culprit for Z-S carburetors and a 72 TR6 that, when
warm, run at high idle?  Around 1500 rpm when hot.  Haven't paid much
attention to them for a while.  Well, maybe ever.

--
Martin Secrest
Arlington, VA
72 TR6
73 GT6

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Oct 28 15:37:15 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 18:37:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Electric fan for a TR4
In-Reply-To: 
References: 
	<1C3A4251-A4E8-4FC2-B67A-ACE747FB33FB@cox.net>
	
Message-ID: 

That is very helpful, John. How did you wire everything in?

I love the look of the TR3, but I'm happy not to have to deal with the nose
'fairing' that comes with it. I had a fully faired touring motorcycle for a
few years, and it was a real job to take all the fairing pieces off safely,
store safely and replace them in order to do anything to the bike.

Very helpful photos...and an overflow bottle is now in my plans too.

Thanks,

Brian


On Wed, Oct 28, 2009 at 5:50 PM, John A. Wise <60TR3A at cox.net> wrote:

> This is advise from my TR3A conversion.
>
> Have you friendly radiator shop put a bung in your radiator that will
> accept common electronic thermostats.  The only problem I have had is that
> modern cars run at higher tempts & usually 1850 is the lowest you can find
> in most parts stores.  Living in Phoenix I have found an adjustable one
that
> goes goes down as low as 1450.  I plan to use that in the 9 months of
summer
> & then adjust it up for our 3 months of Fall.
>
> My radiator shop also braised on a couple L-brackets to each side to
> provide an attach point or the electric fan.  While you are there have the
> radiator shop install new cap neck for modern cap that will work with
> overflow bottle!!  Both of these task came in for about $10-15 each
>
> See http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/radiator.html for pictures
>
> John
>
>  John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>
>
>
> On  28 Oct, 2009, at 12:13 PM, Brian Jones wrote:
>
> Could the Listerati direct me to a good-quality electric fan for my TR4?
>
> I'm planning to remove the mechanical fan and install Rick Patton's fan
> eliminator kit, making room for an electric puller fan. I intend to control
> the fan with an adjustable thermistat - or maybe a set on/off thermostat,
> let's see what the options are.
>
> If anyone has experience of a successful installation in their TR4 / 4A,
> please lt me know.
>
> I do not want to install the fan using the plastic lugs pushed through the
> radiator vanes - and the same goes for the thermostat.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian Jones
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 28 17:02:24 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 17:02:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] Z-S Idle Issue
In-Reply-To: <52691F4ACA4F4C598ACB683645503DFE@4NutballsPC>
References: <52691F4ACA4F4C598ACB683645503DFE@4NutballsPC>
Message-ID: 

If you still have the vacuum retard & thermal vacuum switch, that is where I
would look first.  It is supposed to jack the idle up, when the engine gets
hot.

-- Randall  

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Wed Oct 28 19:35:52 2009
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 19:35:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Is there anything like this in the USA?
Message-ID: <000001ca5840$894915e0$9bdb41a0$@rr.com>

Rimmer Bros sends emails to periodically, and I thought this one was
particularly interesting. It highlighted a classic car show.

 

http://www.necclassicmotorshow.com/index.php

 

Does Hemmings do something like this? We left coasters don't get much except
the typical "new car" show, or the weekend local events. Yes, we do have
Car's-n-Coffee. But it'd be fun to attend something different.

 

Johnnie

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Wed Oct 28 20:03:26 2009
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 23:03:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Windshield Installation Summary and Tonneau Cover Snap Question
Message-ID: <4AE905FE.7080809@gmail.com>

I got a lot of responses to my question about windshield installation 
and sealing.  Thanks to all that responded.  The overwhelming number of 
respondents said they didn't use any sealant for their windshield 
installation and didn't have any trouble with leaks.  So that's the way 
I'm going.  There was about an even split on those who said they had a 
professional shop do it, and several comments that the shops in their 
area wouldn't do it at all or wouldn't guarantee against breaking the 
glass it if they didn't provide it.  I've done some searching and am 
going to try it myself using the "string trick" to pull the seal over 
the frame lip.  The glass is not perfect and if it breaks I'll buy new 
and go the professional route.  (33 years ago at age 16 I did this 
myself on my first TR4A and didn't break anything.  I remember nothing 
about how I did it, but I'm smarter now, right?)

Another question.  As I prepare to install the windshield I need to 
replace the tonneau cover snaps that attach to the windshield bolts on 
top of the dash.  Its not clear to me where these fit in relation to the 
bolt, the round washer or the shiny triangular piece covering the 
flange.  My guess is they go under the round washer and above the 
triangular piece.  Anyone got a dissenting opinion?

One other comment, a few weeks ago I asked about replacing the felt in 
the door window jams.  I ended using velcro as recommended by Bob 
Danielson and described on his web site.  Its worked very well so far.  
Thanks, Bob.

Ben....

-- 
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Oct 28 20:26:33 2009
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 22:26:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] WTB TR3 door handle
Message-ID: <002701ca5847$9d8cc090$d8a641b0$@net>

I need a door handle for a TR3 and also the little clip that holds it on.
Condition is not important, other than better is better :-)

 

Send me a price, off list, FOB Charleston, IL (61920)

 

Thanks

 

Ken Gano

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Oct 28 20:41:30 2009
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 22:41:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Is there anything like this in the USA?
In-Reply-To: <000001ca5840$894915e0$9bdb41a0$@rr.com>
References: <000001ca5840$894915e0$9bdb41a0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <002f01ca5849$b3c41730$1b4c4590$@net>

Sort of...  Although I have never been I hear that Hershey (PA) "import and
kit car" weekend is basically a big swap meet.  They used to do regional
ones as well (I went to Bloomington, IL three different years) but that
stopped maybe ten years ago.  It was mostly American Iron, but there was a
smattering of British stuff and a huge selection of shop tools and general
purpose stuff.

The Chicago MG club has a big swap meet each winter with lots of Triumph
stuff.  Other than travelling to Chicago in February (not a pleasant
experience :-)) it is a nice get together and a fun break in the long winter
season.

I know several of our friends on this list actually traveled to England for
this, or a very similar get together a few years ago, before the dollar
tanked.  As I recall it was put on by the national Triumphs club and have
heard stories of some fantastic bargains.  Ask Fred Thomas for more details.

I too would love to see something similar, centrally located.

Ken Gano


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 9:36 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Is there anything like this in the USA?

Rimmer Bros sends emails to periodically, and I thought this one was
particularly interesting. It highlighted a classic car show.

 

http://www.necclassicmotorshow.com/index.php

 

Does Hemmings do something like this? We left coasters don't get much except
the typical "new car" show, or the weekend local events. Yes, we do have
Car's-n-Coffee. But it'd be fun to attend something different.

 

Johnnie
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.423 / Virus Database: 270.14.36/2465 - Release Date: 10/28/09
09:34:00

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 28 20:55:29 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 20:55:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Is there anything like this in the USA?
In-Reply-To: <000001ca5840$894915e0$9bdb41a0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20091029035530026.LEBA4372@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Yes, we do have Car's-n-Coffee. But it'd be fun to attend something
different.

How about this?
http://www.franceanditaly.com/

Personally, VTR/TRfest was plenty big enough for me.  Really huge shows
(like the AACA event in Hershey PA) are just too large for me.

Randall

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Thu Oct 29 02:49:22 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 10:49:22 +0100
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for a TR4
References: 
Message-ID: 

I installed an electric fan on my TR4A 8 or nine years ago. It turned out 
the best mod I ever did. I wrote an article about it at the time and sent 
many copies to list members but the article disappeared from my hard disk 
when I changed computers. No present member could find a copy on their 
computer. Bummer!
Essentially I combed the local scrapyards for a suitable fan. This turned 
out to be one salvaged from a Citroen BX. (On advice from Jacques Rouleaux). 
A very strong fan which draws about 15 Amps stationary. It was encased in a 
shroud which was the same width as the rad. I bolted it onto brackets I made 
which were bolted onto the rad fixing brackets. There is masses of room in 
front of the rad. I took away the fan and extension. Randall advised at the 
time that if you did'nt spend hours revving faster than 5k there would not 
be significant harmonic problems.
I braised a 22mm half nut to the back of the header tank. This is the thread 
for almost all the European thermostatic switches. I eventually fitted a 
switch which made at 90C and broke at I think 80C which screws into the 
braised nut. It is heat insulated. Also I needed a new bolt for the 
crankshaft pulley .
I do have the original wiring diagram I drew which involved a fuse, two 
relays, an auto/over ride switch and amber warning light. BTW the second 
relay is to stop the fan illuminating the warning light when it's being 
blown round by the slipstream, which I found very irritating.
The mod has been entirely successful and increased the mpg by around 2.
If anyone would like to put the wiring diagram on a website for any lister 
to download I will happily send it to them. However I expect a better 
electrician than I could produce something more elegant!

Sorry to go on and on but HT mightH someone!

David Brister
1967 TR4A 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Oct 29 05:10:27 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 08:10:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Windshield Installation Summary and Tonneau Cover Snap
 Question
In-Reply-To: <4AE905FE.7080809@gmail.com>
References: <4AE905FE.7080809@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <200910290810.28280.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 28 October 2009 11:03:26 pm Ben Zwissler wrote:
> I got a lot of responses to my question about windshield installation
> and sealing.  Thanks to all that responded.  The overwhelming number of
> respondents said they didn't use any sealant for their windshield
> installation and didn't have any trouble with leaks.  So that's the way
> I'm going.  There was about an even split on those who said they had a
> professional shop do it, and several comments that the shops in their
> area wouldn't do it at all or wouldn't guarantee against breaking the
> glass it if they didn't provide it.  I've done some searching and am
> going to try it myself using the "string trick" to pull the seal over
> the frame lip.  The glass is not perfect and if it breaks I'll buy new
> and go the professional route.  (33 years ago at age 16 I did this
> myself on my first TR4A and didn't break anything.  I remember nothing
> about how I did it, but I'm smarter now, right?)

Ben,

I went that route with my TR4 (using a used windshield glass) and I lived to 
regret the move. 

What I thought was a decent piece of glass turned out to be a piece of crap 
when the sun shinned a certain way. I replaced it with a new pane from TRF.

The 6 project received a new pane as well.

It is a lot of work installing the glass and you only would want to do the job 
once. I believe TRF glass is only about 150 + shipping.
>
> Another question.  As I prepare to install the windshield I need to
> replace the tonneau cover snaps that attach to the windshield bolts on
> top of the dash.  Its not clear to me where these fit in relation to the
> bolt, the round washer or the shiny triangular piece covering the
> flange.  My guess is they go under the round washer and above the
> triangular piece.  Anyone got a dissenting opinion?

I believe that is correct. My 4 is currently in storage.

It is a good idea to chase the threads on top of the dash with a tap before 
you install the windshield. And use some anti-seize. Once the windshield is in 
place, those bolts are difficult to get started. Make sure threads on the bolts 
and the welded nuts are clean and sharp.


Bob

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Thu Oct 29 08:17:40 2009
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:17:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] Electric Fan for TR4
Message-ID: 

Brian, et al,
The electric fan on my TR4A is from JCWhitney.   In fact I have two: one in 
front and one behind, as there is no engine-driven fan and I wanted some 
quick on-the-road repair if the primary fan failed for some reason.   They are 
as large as possible, either 16" or 20", I forget which.   Under $100. 
each.   They are both installed using the poke-thru plastic pins.   The radiator 
is aluminum.

I removed the rheostat controling the dash lights and tied the wires 
together (they're never bright enough anyway, why would one want them to be 
dimmer?)   Installed another heater fan switch, which even has a small fan blade 
on the knob.   This controls the electric fan, which I don't even turn on 
unless idling or in slow traffic.

A concern might be the current load drawn by the large fan, about 10 amps, 
I think.   With an alternator it's not a problem, but with a stock generator 
there may be a problem keeping the battery charged.   Halogen headlights 
also draw about 10 amps and the generator puts out around 20 amps, so you 
could be in trouble right away.

Like other listers, the elecric fans have been trouble-free for years and 
the second fan is simply insurance.   Good luck.
George Haynes

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Thu Oct 29 09:53:14 2009
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 16:53:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Electric Fan for TR4
In-Reply-To: 
Message-ID: <1128667516.2069121256835194113.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Since I got my electric fan at a swap meet, it didn't come with any mounting
hardware, so I made some "poke through pins" from cable ties. I cut the head
off of a second tie to use as a "nut" and used plastic washers on either side.
I didn't want to just wrap a cable tie around and feed it back through since
it seemed that it would stress the veins too much.B B Did it aboutB about 5
years ago,B no problems so far.B 

Bob




----- Original Message -----
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 8:17:40 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [TR] Electric Fan for TR4

Brian, et al,
The electric fan on my TR4A is from JCWhitney. B  In fact I have two: one in
front and one behind, as there is no engine-driven fan and I wanted some
quick on-the-road repair if the primary fan failed for some reason. B  They
are
as large as possible, either 16" or 20", I forget which. B  Under $100.
each. B  They are both installed using the poke-thru plastic pins. B  The
radiator
is aluminum.

I removed the rheostat controling the dash lights and tied the wires
together (they're never bright enough anyway, why would one want them to be
dimmer?) B  Installed another heater fan switch, which even has a small fan
blade
on the knob. B  This controls the electric fan, which I don't even turn on
unless idling or in slow traffic.

A concern might be the current load drawn by the large fan, about 10 amps,
I think. B  With an alternator it's not a problem, but with a stock generator
there may be a problem keeping the battery charged. B  Halogen headlights
also draw about 10 amps and the generator puts out around 20 amps, so you
could be in trouble right away.

Like other listers, the elecric fans have been trouble-free for years and
the second fan is simply insurance. B  Good luck.
George Haynes

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 29 11:07:44 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:07:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electric Fan for TR4
In-Reply-To: <1128667516.2069121256835194113.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: 
	<1128667516.2069121256835194113.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <9B04D8E8662E4C8193E66C73D132AF83@jdnet.deere.com>

> it didn't come 
> with any mounting hardware, so I made some "poke through 
> pins" from cable ties.

FWIW, the "through the core" mounting kits are available separately (for a
moderate charge).  This comes in handy if the fan needs to be removed for
any reason.  Eg, eBay item 370279073600.  (NFI, just the first example I
found)

-- Randall  

From tr6.guy at verizon.net  Thu Oct 29 15:24:54 2009
From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:24:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR8 Dimensions
Message-ID: <6229CA8D05A546BBA31B3EA6819C6B06@mommystoyii>

Everyone,
 
Could someone provide the following TR8 DHC dimensions?  What are the car's
length, width, and height with both the hood up and hood down?
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Gary
www.tracltd.org

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Oct 29 17:49:37 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:49:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Windshield Installation Summary and Tonneau Cover Snap
 Question
In-Reply-To: <4AE905FE.7080809@gmail.com>
References: <4AE905FE.7080809@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0910291749y69f0a3d0t363359fa4b13e171@mail.gmail.com>

On 10/28/09, Ben Zwissler  wrote:
> ...My guess is they go under the round washer and above the
> triangular piece.

Sorry, I do not recall what car is being discussed, but on my TR4 the
stack from top to bottom is bolt head/washer/triangular piece/plate
with snap.  Someone please tell me if that is not right (though they
appeared to be original and unmolested on mine).

I found it helpful to make a slightly larger snap plate for the middle piece:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TonneauSnaps.JPG

This makes it much easier to snap those middle snaps.  I swear the new
tonneaus available are patterned after originals which have shrunk...
for whatever reason they seem to be very tight fits.

Geo

From jimbyjove at comcast.net  Thu Oct 29 20:11:06 2009
From: jimbyjove at comcast.net (Jim Coleman)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 23:11:06 -0400
Subject: [TR]  Will GT6 Heater Assembly Fit a Late TR6?
Message-ID: <001501ca590e$9f290400$dd7b0c00$@net>

I received an email from a non-lister who owns a 1975 TR6 who asked if I
could help him find a complete heater assembly for his TR6 and also wants to
know if a GT6 heater will fit.  Apparently, he has found a couple of those
(Mark II and Mark III) and is willing to travel a reasonable distance from
his home near Road Atlanta to get one.

 

Thanks,

Jim Coleman

Mechanicsville, VA

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Thu Oct 29 20:37:41 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 23:37:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] small dust boot/cover ? tear?
Message-ID: <07C055CF4892481E9581A5EBAD525354@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
Would it be real bad if I were to install a dust cover for my TR3's caliper
brake piston which had a 1/2" tear in the rubber where it attaches to the top
grove in the caliper pot? (lifting up and under the skirt of the flat dust
cover allows me to see almost 1/2" of the piston's silver side)

 Since it is only the dust cover that has this little 1/2" tear, it proably is
ok...right?

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Oct 29 22:00:53 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 23:00:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] small dust boot/cover ? tear?
In-Reply-To: <07C055CF4892481E9581A5EBAD525354@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <07C055CF4892481E9581A5EBAD525354@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <5D528BB0-EF78-4C10-B26A-E7183469CB12@comcast.net>

Cutting corners when it comes to brakes is never OK.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Oct 29, 2009, at 9:37 PM, dorpaul wrote:

> List,
> Would it be real bad if I were to install a dust cover for my TR3's  
> caliper
> brake piston which had a 1/2" tear in the rubber where it attaches  
> to the top
> grove in the caliper pot? (lifting up and under the skirt of the  
> flat dust
> cover allows me to see almost 1/2" of the piston's silver side)
>
> Since it is only the dust cover that has this little 1/2" tear, it  
> proably is
> ok...right?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Oct 30 04:42:54 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 07:42:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Will GT6 Heater Assembly Fit a Late TR6?
In-Reply-To: <001501ca590e$9f290400$dd7b0c00$@net>
References: <001501ca590e$9f290400$dd7b0c00$@net>
Message-ID: <200910300742.55440.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday 29 October 2009 11:11:06 pm Jim Coleman wrote:
> I received an email from a non-lister who owns a 1975 TR6 who asked if I
> could help him find a complete heater assembly for his TR6 and also wants
> to know if a GT6 heater will fit.  Apparently, he has found a couple of
> those (Mark II and Mark III) and is willing to travel a reasonable distance
> from his home near Road Atlanta to get one.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Coleman
>
> Mechanicsville, VA
Jim,

I cant answer your question on the GT6 heater, but I see TR6 heaters on Ebay 
all the time with little or no bidders.

If the GT6 heater does not fit, tell your friend to search Ebay or check out 
VTR classifieds or the 6Pack  classifieds. Many members have numerous parts 
available.

Bob

From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Oct 30 05:11:53 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 08:11:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] small dust boot/cover ? tear?
In-Reply-To: <07C055CF4892481E9581A5EBAD525354@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <07C055CF4892481E9581A5EBAD525354@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <8CC27714D4DB581-6674-1CFE4@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com>

 As Bud says, don't take shortcuts with the brakes.

But the dustcover seal breach will allow water into where the piston slides
into and out of the caliper bore.  Water will cause rust that can inhibit the
movement of the pistons and one piston will hang up causing a pad to drag
causing the brakes to heat up and compromise your stopping ability.

Ask me how I know.


 Dave



-----Original Message-----
From: dorpaul 










List,
Would it be real bad if I were to install a dust cover for my TR3's caliper
brake piston which had a 1/2" tear in the rubber where it attaches to the top
grove in the caliper pot? (lifting up and under the skirt of the flat dust
cover allows me to see almost 1/2" of the piston's silver side)

 Since it is only the dust cover that has this little 1/2" tear, it proably
is
ok...right?

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Fri Oct 30 05:29:04 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 08:29:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] small dust boot/cover ? tear?
References: <07C055CF4892481E9581A5EBAD525354@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<8CC27714D4DB581-6674-1CFE4@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: 

Thanks for explaining!  You've told me to ask you how you know, but, you've
already convinced me.

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: dave1massey at cs.com
  To: dorpaul at bellsouth.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 8:11 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] small dust boot/cover ? tear?


  As Bud says, don't take shortcuts with the brakes.

  But the dustcover seal breach will allow water into where the piston slides
into and out of the caliper bore.  Water will cause rust that can inhibit the
movement of the pistons and one piston will hang up causing a pad to drag
causing the brakes to heat up and compromise your stopping ability.

  Ask me how I know.


  Dave



  -----Original Message-----
  From: dorpaul 


List,
Would it be real bad if I were to install a dust cover for my TR3's caliper
brake piston which had a 1/2" tear in the rubber where it attaches to the top
grove in the caliper pot? (lifting up and under the skirt of the flat dust
cover allows me to see almost 1/2" of the piston's silver side)

 Since it is only the dust cover that has this little 1/2" tear, it proably
is
ok...right?

From agraham at execulink.com  Fri Oct 30 13:18:49 2009
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 16:18:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 pinion seal question
Message-ID: <200910302018.n9UKIg1A026259@smtp1.execulink.net>

Hello List:
Noticed after installing a new pinion seal on my Girling axle that 
the seal seemed to have a lot of drag on the pinion shaft. It is a 
new, modern seal sourced from the big 3, but it was very tight and 
now I can notice a real drag on the shaft when I turn the drive shaft 
flange. Is this to be expected? We used lots of lube to install the 
seal and it was a tight fit.
Worried about eventually wearing a grove in the pinion shaft - 
Speedi-sleeve time again.
Any insights??
Thanks in advance for any advice on this.
Angelo Graham

From jimbyjove at comcast.net  Fri Oct 30 14:08:13 2009
From: jimbyjove at comcast.net (Jim Coleman)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 17:08:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Will a GT6 Heater Assembly Fit a Late TR6?
Message-ID: <001d01ca59a5$182a4620$487ed260$@net>

Thanks to all who responded and so quickly!  I will forward some of the
contacts mentioned and also suggest that he check Ebay and the VTR
classifieds.  I have contacted several sources I know of and am waiting.  I
also put him in touch with the Georgia Triumph Association.

 

Like most, I believe a TR6 heater would be as easy to find as a GT6 heater
and know that it fits.  

 

Thanks again,

 

Jim Coleman 

Mechanicsville VA

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Oct 30 14:40:51 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 14:40:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 pinion seal question
In-Reply-To: <200910302018.n9UKIg1A026259@smtp1.execulink.net>
References: <200910302018.n9UKIg1A026259@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0910301440r7e765c52k14fd7c70d0756e90@mail.gmail.com>

On 10/30/09, Angelo Graham  wrote:
> Noticed after installing a new pinion seal on my Girling axle that
> the seal seemed to have a lot of drag on the pinion shaft.

Was this drag noticeable when you first re-inserted the drive flange?
Or was it only apparent once you had tightened the big nut?

I ask as I wonder if you have too much pre-load on that guy.

FWIW, I recently installed the seal sold by Moss US and had no such drag.

Geo

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Oct 30 15:54:21 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 18:54:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Will a GT6 Heater Assembly Fit a Late TR6?
In-Reply-To: <001d01ca59a5$182a4620$487ed260$@net>
Message-ID: <4AEB365D.27623.3D889040@localhost>

On 30 Oct 2009 at 17:08, Jim Coleman wrote:

> Like most, I believe a TR6 heater would be as easy to find as a
> GT6 heater and know that it fits.  

If it weren't for the commonality between Spitfire and GT6 parts I'd 
expect a TR6 to be much easier to find!

As for that commonality, Spitbits lists no part number for the box 
itself.  They list the "heater matirx" for the GT6 and for the 17-74 
Spitfire.  They have the same part number.  They don't list it for 
the later Spitfire at all.

Seems to me those GT6 heaters might be scarcer.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Oct 31 10:26:22 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 11:26:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Oil Pan Leak
In-Reply-To: 
References: <20091028005200.05E6D18765A@autox.team.net>
	
Message-ID: 

I am overjoyed today in that I finally got my car up on a lift in order to
clean and very closely examine what I believed to be a faulty rear-main seal
(brand new Moss kit).  Now it looks like the oil is leaking from the second
bolt in from the corner(driver's side). I REALLY hope this is right!!



My questions to the list are this:
- First, the guy that built the engine used some type of sealant that has
VERY SECURELY glued the alloy sump to the block.  I think they need this
stuff to attach the tiles to the Space Shuttle!  I can see that it is black
from the squeeze-out around the edges.  Any idea what it is and the best way
to get the sump off without damaging it?
- The bolts now in the pan are several lengths but the manual shows that all
to be 3/4", save three(3)
- The slave bracket & breather pipe clip bolts(2) to be 1-1/4" in length
- A sump to front sealing block bolt(1) to be 5/8".  
I this correct?
- Also, is there any oil passage that these rear-most bolts could have
intersected with to cause the leak?  If so, what is the remedy?
- Lastly, I have the alloy sump, does this make any difference in the bolt
lengths I should use?

Many thanks in advance.  And, if this is indeed the cause of my oil puddle
misery my humble apologies to Moss for all of my evil statements of the
past.
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Jones
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 1:17 PM
To: email list
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Oil Pan Leak

I followed the method in the VTR maintenance section, except I used Permatex
to bond the gasket to the pan, left to set overnight. I then used Hylomar on
the gasket-to-block face so that I could easily get the pan off again and
had no risk of goop in the pan causing mischief.

I took care to straighten the pan lip first. My pan had been heavily
over-tightened by the DPO and his answer was to use masses of orange rubbery
goop to close the gaps on the distorted pan lip. He failed. The VTR page:
 http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-pan-gasket.shtml

Brian Jones


On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 8:51 PM, Tony Drews  wrote:

> That's what I use as well.  Permatex brand is what the local Farm and 
> Fleet carries.  I still leave a trail of oil, but not from the oil pan
flange.
>
> - Tony Drews
>
> At 01:57 PM 10/27/2009, STEVE STERN wrote:
>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Pan Leak
>>
>> "I cured my oil pan leaks by installing the gasket with black RTV. 
>> This is a silicone gasket maker. I only used the RTV on the area 
>> outside of the bolt holes to prevent it from getting into my oil 
>> system. No more leaks."
>>
>> I second it! I've been using RTV adhesive and/or gasket maker on all 
>> paper and cork gaskets since the 70s without a leak.
>>
>>
>> Steve
>>
>  _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
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http://www.team.net/archive

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Sat Oct 31 11:41:26 2009
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 12:41:26 -0600
Subject: [TR] [stag] TTA - WHAT's NEXT?? Status of Uncle Jack - our last
 grand finale task
In-Reply-To: <253112.56090.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <253112.56090.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AEC84D6.8020305@triumphstagclub.org>

Bert,
Thanks for the input, and keep suggestions coming.

BJ has not been interested in supporting our charities, been there, 
tried that twice.  BJ has a list of their own special charities they 
promote and support and that is their position.
They will be glad to auction the car as any other seller, No discount on 
buyer/seller/auctioneer premiums, etc. 
Do you (or anyone) have contacts at BJ that might change their mind - 
maybe some people who know people?  Direct them to the TTA web site!  
Maybe now after the drive is over and publicized and the web site is up 
and running again they will pay attention and support it.  I could 
easily get UJ to Phoenix for the January / February auction though if 
they would put it in the preferred/elite auction tent and I could get 
some VIP passes to keep it all pristine looking, put all the magnets 
back on, etc..  Maybe third time is a charmer.

We also could not get Hagerty Insurance to be interested in sponsoring 
UJ's drive either, even though most of the Triumphs that participated in 
the caravans are Hagerty customers!  Part of that disconnect was Chuck 
Kittelson suddenly passing in July who was my main publicity and 
corporate sponsor guru for the TTA drive and was working with sponsors.

We did have Kruse interested, but they are in financial straights with 
pending bankruptcy so the decision not to use them was made - and we 
could not bet the car to Hershey in time from SLO.  

Chuck Kittelson had two casinos in Vegas interested in paying a cool 
$1million for the car but the economy took a dump as we were kicking off 
the drive.  I will be pursuing this avenue again as we ramp up the 
auction site and publicity.

For coverage on national TV, John Macartney was interviewed on many 
local TV stations, many local radio stations and many newspapers and car 
magazines over the course of the drive.  Press releases were sent to all 
the major broadcast medias, none on the national ones were were interested.
As an example, our local newspaper car guy at the Denver Post was more 
enamored with the 4 supercars (google Bertone Mantide and revin' on 
earth) spending tens of thousands in costs to drive them coast to coast 
with a gaggle of mechanics and semi's full of parts and a mobile service 
garage, for the sole purpose of personal satisfaction of one the drivers 
millionaire Dan Watkins,  and his 3 other buddies,  than a cause 
covering all of North America traveling through Denver to raise 
awareness and charity money for PTSD.
If you got it, flaunt it I suppose.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
TTA North American Drive Coordinator 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org
Skype,Twitter,FaceBook: StagByTriumph



Bert Saxby wrote:
> Why not take it to Barrett Jackson?  I'm sure they would get on the charity
> bandwagon and you almost never see a Triumph roll across the stage.

From carlsereda at aol.com  Sat Oct 31 15:02:25 2009
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 15:02:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
Message-ID: 

Hi Listers,
I am not sure I've ever really seen a TR  "Tropical" radiator fan blade.. is
the one listed here on eBay the real deal.. I'm kinda doubting it..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220499877203

Regards,
Carl
63 TR4 since '74

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Oct 31 16:16:37 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 17:16:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
In-Reply-To: 
References: 
Message-ID: 

Carl,

It looks like the real deal from the picture, except for the red paint, for
$112.00 I hope it is.  I have heard that the Volvo 122s six-blade fan can be
easily modified for a TR2-4 application, but have never seen or tried it,
maybe someone else can add to this thought.

I have one that I bought from another lister for $125 a couple of years ago.
High altitude, summer driving in the mountains, no shroud and everything
else is stock... Never an overheating problem all this year, the first year
back on the road. 

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of carlsereda
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 4:02 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?

Hi Listers,
I am not sure I've ever really seen a TR  "Tropical" radiator fan blade.. is
the one listed here on eBay the real deal.. I'm kinda doubting it..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220499877203

Regards,
Carl
63 TR4 since '74
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Sat Oct 31 16:24:10 2009
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 16:24:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
References: 
Message-ID: 

Although I've never examined one up close, I've seen one on a friends car. 
This one looks right to me.  I was going to bid on it when it was at $50. 
When it topped $100, it was too rich for my blood.

On a related note, I bought a 6 blade Volvo fan on ebay.  I was dismayed 
when it arrived because the four bolt holes were not equally spaced as on a 
TR fan.  If I redrill the holes, how critical is it that they be perfectly 
on center?  As opposed to making some of the holes oblong to make up for 
poor placement.

paulw
1964 TR4

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "carlsereda" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 3:02 PM
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?


> Hi Listers,
> I am not sure I've ever really seen a TR  "Tropical" radiator fan blade.. 
> is
> the one listed here on eBay the real deal.. I'm kinda doubting it..
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220499877203
>
> Regards,
> Carl
> 63 TR4 since '74

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 31 16:42:49 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 16:42:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
In-Reply-To: 
Message-ID: <20091031234249723.MKKU9287@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> I am not sure I've ever really seen a TR  "Tropical" radiator 
> fan blade.. is
> the one listed here on eBay the real deal.. I'm kinda doubting it..
> 

Read the text carefully; Ted doesn't claim it's the "tropical" fan, but
rather a stock metal fan for an early TR4A (before they switched to
plastic).

I can't say if it's genuine, but it certainly bears a strong resemblance to
the illustration in my TR4A SPC (which of course doesn't show the color).
And while Ted has been known to stretch the truth on occasion, I'm inclined
to take his word for it.

Could be mistaken, but my understanding is that the "tropical" TR2-4 fan was
an aftermarket accessory, made in Australia or some such, not in the UK by
Standard-Triumph (though they may have fitted it to some cars, on request).

Randall

From triumph.driver at gmail.com  Sat Oct 31 17:04:30 2009
From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 20:04:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
In-Reply-To: 
References: 
Message-ID: <56CB64C9E5BD40009BA4ACF6ADF53D0D@chuck>

Carl,

The listing is by Ted Schumacher of TSI in Pandora, OH.  As a former Triumph
dealer and well known Spitfire racer, I'm sure Ted would know if it's the
real deal or not.  Since he's listing it, I'm sure it is.

Chuck White
Xenia, OH
1965 TR4A IRS
1970 GT6+

-----Original Message-----
From: On Behalf Of carlsereda
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 6:02 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?

Hi Listers,
I am not sure I've ever really seen a TR  "Tropical" radiator fan blade.. is
the one listed here on eBay the real deal.. I'm kinda doubting it..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220499877203

Regards,
Carl
63 TR4 since '74

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Sat Oct 31 17:41:01 2009
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 17:41:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Early TR2 -  Looking for Parts from top of Boot
Message-ID: <4AECD91D.6070109@greenheart.com>

I'm looking for a pair of "budget lock" covers for my early TR2.  I 
could buy new ones, but I'd prefer to find a couple original ones that 
will blend better with my unrestored car.  They have a unique fig leaf 
shape to them.   Can anyone help me?  --Justin

http://www.vtr.org/TR2/NewPhotos/tt2bootlidlocks.jpg
close up....
http://www.vtr.org/TR2/NewPhotos/tt2figleaf.jpg

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Sat Oct 31 19:56:54 2009
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 22:56:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
Message-ID: 

In a message dated 10/31/2009 8:36:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

I can't  say if it's genuine, but it certainly bears a strong resemblance to
the  illustration in my TR4A SPC (which of course doesn't show the color).
And  while Ted has been known to stretch the truth on occasion, I'm inclined
to  take his word for it.

Could be mistaken, but my understanding is that  the "tropical" TR2-4 fan 
was
an aftermarket accessory, made in Australia or  some such, not in the UK by
Standard-Triumph (though they may have fitted  it to some cars, on request).
 
==AM==
Whether or not 211986 is a "tropical" fan, it is a TR4A fan as Randall  
notes. It was also used on the Vitesse 6 and 2L, early GT6 and 2000 sedan.  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

From carlsereda at aol.com  Sat Oct 31 20:32:59 2009
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 20:32:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
Message-ID: 

For your trivia and enjoyment I put two  6-bladed radiator fan blades side by
side in a photo. Both are claimed to be TR 'Tropical' blades. I believe 'B' s
the one- not the one just sold on eBay (which is 'A'). Anyone really know? -
I'll send you the side-by-side picture if you want.
Regards,
Carl