From wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov  1 09:14:24 2009
From: wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net (William Babbitt)
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 2009 08:14:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
In-Reply-To: <DA55C580.0116.44DD.ABED.6FC8667D6506@aol.com>
References: <DA55C580.0116.44DD.ABED.6FC8667D6506@aol.com>
Message-ID: <88389.16059.qm@web81007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Carl,
I'd be interested to see your comparison.
I have a 6 bladed fan that
came with the TR4A engine that I have in my 3.
As I recall, the bolt holes are
not at 90 degrees.  The one on Ted's eBay look to be right on 90 degrees, as
was the case on the Volvo fan.  I think that two holes will match up, and if
carefully done the remaining two can be re-drilled to match......
thanks,
Bill
TR3A




________________________________
From: carlsereda
<carlsereda at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, October 31, 2009
11:32:59 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade

For your
trivia and enjoyment I put two  6-bladed radiator fan blades side by
side in a
photo. Both are claimed to be TR 'Tropical' blades. I believe 'B' s
the one-
not the one just sold on eBay (which is 'A'). Anyone really know? -
I'll send
you the side-by-side picture if you want.
Regards,
Carl
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
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http://www.team.net/archive

From trglory at verizon.net  Sun Nov  1 09:25:14 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 2009 11:25:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] [stag] TTA - WHAT's NEXT?? Status of Uncle Jack -
 our last grand finale task
In-Reply-To: <4AEC84D6.8020305@triumphstagclub.org>
References: <253112.56090.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4AEC84D6.8020305@triumphstagclub.org>
Message-ID: <005101ca5b0f$e5053040$af0f90c0$@net>

Glenn;

Charities are usually experts at bending arms and breaking fingers. Has
either of the beneficiaries stepped up to influence the multitude of
auctioneers that plunder the purses of the rich and famous?

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Glenn A. Merrell - TSN
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 2:41 PM
To: Bert Saxby; stag at digest.net; Triumph Triumph list; Spitfires Mail List
Members; TR8 Mail List Members; 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] [stag] TTA - WHAT's NEXT?? Status of Uncle Jack - our
last grand finale task

Bert,
Thanks for the input, and keep suggestions coming.

BJ has not been interested in supporting our charities, been there, 
tried that twice.  

From januaryw at gmail.com  Sun Nov  1 14:01:10 2009
From: januaryw at gmail.com (January Williams)
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 2009 13:01:10 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
Message-ID: <5098defe0911011301r2fdd9736m1c13d78a25fca915@mail.gmail.com>

I bought a "tropical" 6-blade fan on eBay about 7 years ago which is
somewhat different.

I think I already traded pictures with Carl at the time, but here's what I
have.
(I know the pix won't make it to the list - let me know directly if you want
the images)

January Williams  Salem Oregon
66 TR4A CTC 74217 LO

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 6-bladeFan2.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 6-bladeFan1.JPG]

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Nov  1 14:02:07 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 2009 13:02:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] broken or cracked
Message-ID: <853958.30807.qm@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I guess I'd look at drive shaft and axle U-joints also.  when they get loose
they can cause vibration.

gary n.

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Sun Nov  1 17:53:29 2009
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 2009 19:53:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
Message-ID: <BF272A7F-0190-4FDF-BA3C-5E322BBC2638@mgcarclub.com>

I'm pretty sure that is not a TR fan, tropical or otherwise. At least  
it's not for the TR3-4. The TR fan has bolt holes which are in an X  
pattern and as someone else said, not at 90 degrees. I have what I  
believe is a tropical fan and also note that the blades are not as  
wide and may not be rectangular. I'd have to get it out to refresh my  
memory about the blade shape.

I can send a photo, but not right away.

Allen

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun Nov  1 18:53:24 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 2009 20:53:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2-3 door capping
Message-ID: <16D6B9D0D7644E59ACEDA426162C817B@Edscomputer>

List,

Does anyone know when TR2-3 door capping changed from aluminum to steel?

TIA,

Ed Woods

From dkspence at telus.net  Sun Nov  1 20:36:23 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 2009 20:36:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1257102001.28550.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1257102001.28550.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AD681BE0-FFCD-4E25-8815-B7D3215AB0AB@telus.net>

> 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
THe factory parts manual shows two fans available. Early TR4As were  
fitted with a metal 6 blade fan and an extension which was attached to  
the fan pulley hub by 6 nuts and bolts. The fan was attached to the  
extension with 4 bolts.

The drawing shows a fan with the hub arms to which the blades attach  
narrowing as they extend. This is different from the one pictured on  
ebay. It also shows a larger center hole than is apparent in the  
photo.  (Drawings are drawings though...)



Later engines were fitted with a different extension which mounted to  
the fan pulley hub with 3 nut/bolt pairs . The 4 bladed fan had  
plastic blades and attached with a single "disc" and "washer". The fan  
had 4 smaller holes (around the larger centre hole) one of which fit  
over a dowel which mounted in a single hole in the extension. This is  
described as "Dowel, locating fan".

Oh, if Ted is reading all this... your fan is not "very unique" .  An  
object is either unique or it is not, unique meaning one of a kind. An  
article such as this fan, obviously manufactured in great quantity and  
used as standard fitment on an automobile is not even rare or unusual.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Nov  1 22:16:11 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 2009 22:16:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
In-Reply-To: <AD681BE0-FFCD-4E25-8815-B7D3215AB0AB@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1257102001.28550.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<AD681BE0-FFCD-4E25-8815-B7D3215AB0AB@telus.net>
Message-ID: <A2F1CBD94A054A82943E93392A4E5825@bboffice>

All,
This is a fascinating discussion, please continue to contribute if you can
advance it along, the feedback so far has been very enlightening.  

QUESTION:
Does anyone know of any definitive marks or numbers that could be found on a
genuine StanPart "Tropical Fan"?

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don
Sent: Sunday, November 01, 2009 8:36 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade

> 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
THe factory parts manual shows two fans available. Early TR4As were fitted
with a metal 6 blade fan and an extension which was attached to the fan
pulley hub by 6 nuts and bolts. The fan was attached to the extension with 4
bolts.
http://www.team.net/archive

From kentech0822 at myfairpoint.net  Mon Nov  2 05:54:53 2009
From: kentech0822 at myfairpoint.net (Peter K)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 07:54:53 -0500
Subject: [TR]  TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
Message-ID: <C1DD5628DA7A4DA3837059019985FB73@KENTECHHP>

I've seen a few tropical fans on TRs over the years and the blade mounts on
Ted's are not the same. His are squared off while others (like mine) are
pointed). See mine here :
http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/fans_tropicaltop.jpg and here
http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/fans_tropicalside.jpg


hth - PeterK

From kentech0822 at myfairpoint.net  Mon Nov  2 06:07:21 2009
From: kentech0822 at myfairpoint.net (Peter K)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 08:07:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
Message-ID: <5F6C524624434DF59AFB3234D4E6F243@KENTECHHP>

Also notice the fan extension mounting for rubber fan bushings and size of
center hole to fit the extension.

http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/fans_tropicalhub.jpg
  From: Peter K
  Sent: Monday, November 02, 2009 7:54 AM
  To: Triumph List
  Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?


  I've seen a few tropical fans on TRs over the years and the blade mounts on
Ted's are not the same. His are squared off while others (like mine) are
pointed). See mine here :
  http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/fans_tropicaltop.jpg and
here
  http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/fans_tropicalside.jpg


  hth - PeterK

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Nov  2 08:00:04 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 10:00:04 EST
Subject: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
Message-ID: <cdd.5d74a01b.38204df4@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/2/2009 1:12:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wbeech at flash.net writes:

All,
This is a fascinating discussion, please continue to contribute  if you can
advance it along, the feedback so far has been very  enlightening
 
Hey, 
I have the optional "Tropical Fan" on my TR3B.  I bought it from  Scott 
Harper @ Team Triumph.  I believe he told us at the time that it  came off a 
GT6 MK 1 which had the same 6 blade, steel fan fitted as  standard.
Cheers,
Darrell

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov  2 08:58:08 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 07:58:08 -0800
Subject: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
In-Reply-To: <cdd.5d74a01b.38204df4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20091102155808792.CODT20461@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> I believe he told us at the time that 
> it  came off a 
> GT6 MK 1 which had the same 6 blade, steel fan fitted as  standard.

Which according to my SPC would be the same Stanpart 211986 as fitted to
some TR4A.

Oddly enough, it is also listed in the TR250 and TR6 SPC, but not
illustrated nor any indication of which cars it was fitted to.

Randall

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Nov  2 10:47:16 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 12:47:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
In-Reply-To: <cdd.5d74a01b.38204df4@aol.com>
References: <cdd.5d74a01b.38204df4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W49D501051EB0F30CDBE095BAB30@phx.gbl>

Oh thanks Darrell :(. After seeing that one on ebay fetch what it did in the
condition it was in I got to thinking, hmmm I believe I have one of those in
the basement from my TR4 project box. Yup, went down there and sure enough
there it was. All bright and shiny . A regular show piece I tell you. Has
CONCOURSE written all over it. I think mine was the special order option for
Hawaii only. Only three made.  Looking at all that TR4 stuff has got me
thinking time to sell it and buy stuff for the TR250.  If nothing else the
boss would not have to look at it in the basement anymore:)



Marty




  I have the optional "Tropical Fan" on my TR3B. I bought it from Scott
 Harper @ Team Triumph. I believe he told us at the time that it came off a
 GT6 MK 1 which had the same 6 blade, steel fan fitted as standard.
 Cheers,
 Darrell


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Nov  2 12:00:15 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 14:00:15 EST
Subject: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
Message-ID: <bd7.59f84ea0.3820863f@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/2/2009 12:47:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:

Has CONCOURSE written all over it. I think mine was the special order  
option for Hawaii only. Only three made.
 
Marty,
If it is the right one I'm a buyer.  Need one for  the 62 TR4 and one for 
the 63.  Legend has it that the tropical fans were  fitted on TR3A's & TR4's 
destined for warm climates.  Also if an  owner bought these Triumph's into a 
dealership complaining of hot running they  were retrofitted with the 
Tropical fan.  If true it's a wonder they all  don't have them fitted!  :)
Cheers,
Darrell

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov  2 12:22:35 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 11:22:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
In-Reply-To: <AD681BE0-FFCD-4E25-8815-B7D3215AB0AB@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1257102001.28550.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<AD681BE0-FFCD-4E25-8815-B7D3215AB0AB@telus.net>
Message-ID: <7BDD59CDD3C0443BB61B5168E7EF5D39@jdnet.deere.com>

Quoth Don Spence:
> unique meaning one of a kind.

But that is not the only definition of 'unique'.

>From Merriam-Webster:

3 : unusual <we were fairly unique, the sixty of us, in that there wasn't
one good mixer in the bunch - J. D. Salinger>

-- Randall  

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Nov  2 12:56:18 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 12:56:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1257188401.9303.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1257188401.9303.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7FEA3D0B-F805-4162-92F5-721C88DE297D@telus.net>

That is a match to the drawing in the factory parts manual.  ( except  
for the beautiful aluminum extension piece)
On 2-Nov-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "Peter K" <kentech0822 at myfairpoint.net>
> Date: November 2, 2009 6:07:21 AM MST (CA)
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
>
>
> Also notice the fan extension mounting for rubber fan bushings and  
> size of
> center hole to fit the extension.
>
> http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/fans_tropicalhub.jpg
>   From: Peter K
>   Sent: Monday, November 02, 2009 7:54 AM
>   To: Triumph List
>   Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
>
>
>   I've seen a few tropical fans on TRs over the years and the blade  
> mounts on
> Ted's are not the same. His are squared off while others (like  
> mine) are
> pointed). See mine here :
>   http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/ 
> fans_tropicaltop.jpg and
> here
>   http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/ 
> fans_tropicalside.jpg
>
>
>   hth - PeterK

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Mon Nov  2 13:20:42 2009
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 15:20:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1257188401.9303.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1257188401.9303.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6D611506-7518-425D-A2B7-9C68984C970E@mgcarclub.com>

Without digging mine out, for absolute certainty, I believe Peter K's  
fan is the TR Tropical fan and the same as mine.

Allen
> Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 08:07:21 -0500
> From: "Peter K" <kentech0822 at myfairpoint.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
>
> Also notice the fan extension mounting for rubber fan bushings and  
> size of
> center hole to fit the extension.
>
> http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/fans_tropicalhub.jpg
>   From: Peter K
>   Sent: Monday, November 02, 2009 7:54 AM
>   To: Triumph List
>   Subject: [TR] TR Radiator "Tropical" Fan?
>
>
>   I've seen a few tropical fans on TRs over the years and the blade  
> mounts on
> Ted's are not the same. His are squared off while others (like  
> mine) are
> pointed). See mine here :
>   http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/ 
> fans_tropicaltop.jpg and
> here
>   http://home.myfairpoint.net/kentech0822/triumph/ 
> fans_tropicalside.jpg
>
>
>   hth - PeterK

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Nov  2 14:23:11 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 14:23:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] 6-bladed 'Tropical' Radiator Fan Blade
In-Reply-To: <bd7.59f84ea0.3820863f@aol.com>
References: <bd7.59f84ea0.3820863f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911021323n3974f40fn19f95f85dc94af0f@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/2/09, TR250Driver at aol.com <TR250Driver at aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 11/2/2009 12:47:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> trmarty at hotmail.com writes:
>
> Has CONCOURSE written all over it. I think mine was the special order
> option for Hawaii only. Only three made.
>
> Marty,
> If it is the right one I'm a buyer.  Need one for  the 62 TR4 and one for
> the 63.  Legend has it that the tropical fans were  fitted on TR3A's & TR4's
> destined for warm climates...

But my TR4 is one of those 3 that went to Hawaii so shouldn't I get
it?  Actually, I likely can't afford it and mine doesn't seem to need
it anyway even in Tucson.

Geo

PS - Concourse is that big waiting/boarding thing at the airport.

From tr4boy at surewest.net  Mon Nov  2 16:02:37 2009
From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg Schuett)
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 2009 15:02:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] chrome plater?
Message-ID: <4AEF650D.40807@surewest.net>

Folks,

I can't remember if it was this list or another, but I'm trying to find 
the name and contact info of a chrome plater...I seem to recall that she 
was female with a Hispanic name?  Does anyone know what I'm talking 
about or should i just go take my medication and call it a day?

man, getting old sucks...

Greg

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Nov  2 17:29:08 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 19:29:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr6 carpet
Message-ID: <E70765C49ED44AECB83B8152DD53B7C9@Alan>

I have a navy blue TR6 carpet set listed on Ebay,
#  180426772633.
This came out of my project car as I changed colors.
It looks like it is fairly new. Probably  put in shortly before the car was
wrecked.
I don't know who made it.  Its not a TRF carpet. It is priced accordingly.
It is complete.  There's a couple of pieces I forgot to put in the picture.

Thanks for your time.

Al

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Nov  2 17:33:39 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 17:33:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] chrome plater?
In-Reply-To: <4AEF650D.40807@surewest.net>
References: <4AEF650D.40807@surewest.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911021633o2f3b78eeke2f32df7fd02d3aa@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/2/09, Greg Schuett <tr4boy at surewest.net> wrote:
> I can't remember if it was this list or another, but I'm trying to find
> the name and contact info of a chrome plater...I seem to recall that she
> was female with a Hispanic name?

I recall it too so it was either here or on the British Car Forum.

I think she mentioned she was divorced... several times (the mention,
not the divorce).

Geo

A search of '+divorce +chrome' might find the thread

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Nov  2 17:40:23 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 17:40:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] chrome plater?
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0911021633o2f3b78eeke2f32df7fd02d3aa@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4AEF650D.40807@surewest.net>
	<7bb181af0911021633o2f3b78eeke2f32df7fd02d3aa@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911021640u7da1407agddb293babf15c94c@mail.gmail.com>

Oops, no pluses on a list search.  Try this, ask for Yolanda:

http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/triumphs/2009-08/msg00383.html

From bob at texmog.com  Mon Nov  2 22:30:30 2009
From: bob at texmog.com (bob at texmog.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 23:30:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Pilot Bushing Size
Message-ID: <C8BB0CAE5F1A486B97ED492B98702B51@CARROOM>

I know that I read a post a couple of weeks ago with this information but
now I can't find it ( the price one pays for spending too much time reading
the posts in the achieves).

Anyway I need the dimensions of the pilot bushing in the crankshaft. Both
the inside and outside dimensions would be nice as well as the bore in the
crank. 

Thanks 

Bob   	

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Nov  3 08:59:48 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2009 07:59:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] chrome plater?
In-Reply-To: <4AEF650D.40807@surewest.net>
References: <4AEF650D.40807@surewest.net>
Message-ID: <966965.59794.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

that was me she chrome plated for
its:
Yolanda's Plating
3419 Union Pacific av
Los Angeles
CA 90023
323-269-3448

she has a little trouble with English. i
think she understands more that she speaks.
and as i recall, she is not dating
anyone!

Frank Fisher




________________________________
From: Greg Schuett
<tr4boy at surewest.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, November 2, 2009
3:02:37 PM
Subject: [TR] chrome plater?

Folks,

I can't remember if it was
this list or another, but I'm trying to find the name and contact info of a
chrome plater...I seem to recall that she was female with a Hispanic name? 
Does anyone know what I'm talking about or should i just go take my medication
and call it a day?

man, getting old sucks...

Greg
_______________________________________________

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Nov  3 09:07:50 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2009 08:07:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Pilot Bushing Size
In-Reply-To: <C8BB0CAE5F1A486B97ED492B98702B51@CARROOM>
References: <C8BB0CAE5F1A486B97ED492B98702B51@CARROOM>
Message-ID: <223717.39131.qm@web111601.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Bob
if its for a TR3
then the crankshaft has a 1.000" diameter hole, and its
1.160 deep with a chamfer of about 0.100 deep.
i machined my bushing to 0.999"
outside diameter.
i think the nose of the input shaft is 0.500". but if you
really need that, id like to double check it later.
Frank Fisher
________________________________
From: "bob at texmog.com" <bob at texmog.com>
To:
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, November 2, 2009 9:30:30 PM
Subject: [TR]
Pilot Bushing Size

I know that I read a post a couple of weeks ago with this
information but
now I can't find it ( the price one pays for spending too much
time reading
the posts in the achieves).

Anyway I need the dimensions of the
pilot bushing in the crankshaft. Both
the inside and outside dimensions would
be nice as well as the bore in the
crank. 

Thanks 

Bob     
_______________________________________________

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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Nov  3 10:07:31 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 2009 09:07:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] chrome plater?
In-Reply-To: <966965.59794.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <4AEF650D.40807@surewest.net>
	<966965.59794.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AF06353.5010806@gmail.com>

When I got some things replated on my 3 I just went to my local shop 
that specialized in custom Harleys and used the same plater they use for 
their show Harleys.  I figure if the plater is good enough for the 
custom bike people its good enough for me.

More than 10 years later the stuff they rechromed is in like new shape 
while all the aftermarket chrome stuff I purchased is all showing rust 
issues.

The custom bike folks know who is best.

Teriann

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Nov  3 11:57:25 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 2009 11:57:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pilot Bushing Size
In-Reply-To: <C8BB0CAE5F1A486B97ED492B98702B51@CARROOM>
References: <C8BB0CAE5F1A486B97ED492B98702B51@CARROOM>
Message-ID: <4AF07D15.6000201@bradakis.com>

What year and what model?

mjb.

From lee at automate-it.com  Tue Nov  3 23:42:21 2009
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 00:42:21 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Classic Motorsports magazine
Message-ID: <1306.12.7.82.66.1257316941.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

On Tuesday my mailbox contained a complimentary copy of Classic Motorsports
magazine, including a false cover containing an offer for reduced
subscription/extra issues if I subscribe. I'm guessing that they bought a
mailing list from TRF or maybe Road & Track.

I don't think I've *really* looked at this publication before, although I've
picked it up in bookstores a couple of times and thumbed quickly through it.
But since I had a long cross-country flight on this very day, I read almost
all the way through it. One of my first observations is that Tim Suddard is
the publisher, and that many names on the masthead look familiar. Because for
several years I subscribed to Tim's first magazine, Grassroots Motorsports.

Anyway - I'm impressed. Very nicely done, including contributions from Peter
Brock and a few others you might recognize. The cover article on "the ultimate
home workshop" is what first got my attention, and it does not disappoint.

I note that Moss and Vicky Brit and many other small Brit-car vendors/shops
advertise, but TRF is conspicuously absent. Charles is certainly a bit quirky,
but I can't believe that he wouldn't benefit from broader advertising.

I'm wondering if this blast of sample issues to potential subscribers isn't
another symptom of the trend of diving subscriber numbers for all print media.
Is this a last-gasp attempt to bolster subscriptions and avoid going under?

Just wondering.
  - Lee

From opposumking at verizon.net  Wed Nov  4 03:43:58 2009
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 2009 05:43:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Classic Motorsports magazine
References: <1306.12.7.82.66.1257316941.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <AFBD4A2D78AB489EA9797FAF2B413337@mde.state.md.us>

Short answer, no.  GRMS and CMS are doing fine.

You used to subscribe, that's where they got your info from.

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Wed Nov  4 10:14:54 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 2009 17:14:54 GMT
Subject: [TR] Looking for Fred Thomas
Message-ID: <200911041014466.SM04476@[166.70.182.51]>

Fred, shoot me an email when you get this.

Brad

From guzziot at hotmail.com  Thu Nov  5 00:22:23 2009
From: guzziot at hotmail.com (Russell Barr)
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 23:22:23 -0800
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
Message-ID: <BLU144-DS36FF07DD93C33FC71FE74AFB00@phx.gbl>

Greetings all,
I've recently decided to enter the world of Triumph ownership.  What I
really want is a TR6, and have ever since they were new, but it seems the
cost of entry on a Spitfire is lower, making that a bit tempting as well.
My wife thinks the Spitfire is prettier, but it's not for her and she'd look
great in the passenger seat of either one. I'd be interested in the
impressions of anybody who's familiar with both.

I've been into VW busses for almost 30 years and have a good deal of
experience working on 'em have developed some strong opinions about them
too.  For instance, I think the '71 is the most desirable year of bus,
because it has the old style, easier to work on motor, and also has disk
brakes.  The only bad part of the '71 being that it used the dual-port
motor, which is more powerful but peakier, requiring downshifting more often
than with the older single port motor (in my experience).  The bus I'm
leaving behind is a '69 with a single-port motor, maybe even the original
engine case, and is just about as stock as I could make it during my last
rebuild.  I don't think putting performance mods on a bus motor is a good
idea unless you're going to really do your homework and do things right,
which ends up being ludicrously expensive, and just ends up highlighting its
other limitations.  

So that puts me squarely in the realm of codger-dom when it comes to
vehicles, and I'll bet there's quite a few Triumph owners just like me.
Soooo, who's got a favorite year TR6 and why?  I've seen some with
aftermarket superchargers, and the thought of that is a bit on the
intoxicating side.  And they look all shiny and pretty all nestled up
against the motor.  
--
Russell Barr
'04 Moto Guzzi EV Touring
'69 VW Bus
Oh yeah, a wife and 4 kids too

From lee at automate-it.com  Thu Nov  5 00:49:51 2009
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 01:49:51 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Classic Motorsports magazine
In-Reply-To: <AFBD4A2D78AB489EA9797FAF2B413337@mde.state.md.us>
References: <1306.12.7.82.66.1257316941.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
	<AFBD4A2D78AB489EA9797FAF2B413337@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <1249.12.7.82.66.1257407391.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

> You used to subscribe, that's where they got your info from.

I should have clarified - I moved long after my subscription expired, so they
never had my current address. Doesn't matter; I'm still pretty impressed by
the magazine and there's a strong chance I'll subscribe, so they're tactic
worked...

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Nov  5 05:43:43 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 07:43:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-DS36FF07DD93C33FC71FE74AFB00@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU144-DS36FF07DD93C33FC71FE74AFB00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <200911050743.44393.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday 05 November 2009 02:22:23 am Russell Barr wrote:
> 
>
> So that puts me squarely in the realm of codger-dom when it comes to
> vehicles, and I'll bet there's quite a few Triumph owners just like me.
> Soooo, who's got a favorite year TR6 and why?  I've seen some with
> aftermarket superchargers, and the thought of that is a bit on the
> intoxicating side.  And they look all shiny and pretty all nestled up
> against the motor.
> --
> Russell Barr
> '04 Moto Guzzi EV Touring
> '69 VW Bus
> Oh yeah, a wife and 4 kids too
>

Russell,

I am currently restoring a late 72 TR6. The experts on the 6pack list and 
forum indicate this is the most desirable year. It has the upgraded intake and 
exhaust + the older style front and rear bumpers without the rubber over-
riders. They also say the engine is stronger and of better quality.

For me, I was not after a 72, I just picked up a project and it turned out to 
be a 72.

I have no stats to back up the claim that the 72 is the best 6 model.

But after tearing down and rebuilding the engine, I can say that it was in 
very good shape for a 30+ year motor. 

If you are serious about getting a 6 I would join the 6pack email list and the 
forum. Lots of advice.

Like with all Triumphs, they are rust magnets. Check out both the entire frame 
and body before you buy. If you don't plan on a full restoration project like 
me, try to get a 6 with the numerous upgrades to the frame and differential 
carrier.

And welcome to the world of Triumphs!

Bob

http://www.triumphowners.com/1331
http://www.triumphowners.com/1330
http://www.triumphowners.com/1401

From jat1127 at hotmail.com  Thu Nov  5 10:13:26 2009
From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 12:13:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR  6  hardtop
Message-ID: <BLU139-W17B0A243D1D8D5E9CD320CB5B00@phx.gbl>

Listers,

 I am again shopping for a TR 6 and wish one in white and with a hardtop. If I
can not find the factory top then an aftermarket unit would be ok. I have seen
a unit that looks close to the factory unit. Does anyone know who makes it?

CHEERS
John

John Taylor
Greenfield, Ma
Gloucester, Ma
USA.

TR 8 o
TR 8 c
Jaguar XJ-6

* ALWAYS BE SAFE *

Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first.
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.

From blanoway at shaw.ca  Thu Nov  5 14:17:21 2009
From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 15:17:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] Getting the sag out of your rear end - use a TR6 Air Lift kit
Message-ID: <D2623131476440BFABF97297EF984A95@Lanowaylaptop>

It's been a while since I've put a post on this List and I would like to
share the success I've had with one of my TR6 modifications.

I've been bedeviled in the past by a sagging rear end on my TR6 when fully
loaded for a long trip.  With two 200# passengers, luggage, tools, a heavy
factory hardtop (sometimes) and a low Ansa exhaust, my TR6 - when loaded -
looked and handled like a boat trying to plane.

A few years ago, I heard rumours of an Air Lift kit from this List, but
details at that time were sketchy.  I've now found the right parts and am
happy to report that the Air Lifts work beautifully.  You can incrementally
adjust the air pressure between 5 and 15 PSI to accommodate the load and the
net result is the car feels, rides and handles like it has no load at all
even if it's packed to the window sills.

To do this you need these parts from Air Lift (800) 248-0892 or
www.airliftcompany.com.  You need qty 2 Air Lift bladders P/N 46143, a
length of soft <" OD hose P/N 389100, a "T" fitting for the hose and an air
valve for the end of the hose (similar to a tire air valve but barbed on the
other end).

The installation is simple. It's best to remove the rear coil springs from
the car, put them in a vise and then "screw" the pliant bladders into the
coils (there is an interference fit).  Note that the bladders increase the
spring constant by expanding radially - the ends of the bladders do not
contact anything.  Once reinstalled, you then connect everything with the
hose and fittings and tie wrap the hose to the frame.  I put the air valve
just under my rear bumper and use a cheap $15 air foot pump to inflate the
system.

To keep the bladders from rubbing and wearing against the coils, you need to
leave at least 5 PSI in the system at all times.  I've found that even when
the car is unloaded, the 5 PSI improves the handling and I now travel over
bad roads with much more confidence.  At 5 PSI, the famous TR6 rear end
squat disappears.

You might be at first dismayed by the cost of these simple parts (around
$160 in my case), but the net benefit is worth many times that.

I'm very pleased with the results, the car is much better with the Air Lifts
installed - loaded and unloaded - and I recommend it as an effective way to
get your rear end back where it belongs.

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg, Canada

PS: We thoroughly enjoyed hosting John Macartney through our distant city in
September - it was a wonderful event and John was a compelling and welcome
visitor.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Thu Nov  5 14:45:19 2009
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest)
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2009 16:45:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Intro
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1257447601.8133.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1257447601.8133.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <46DD28E061A749E8840ACE9504147CEC@4NutballsPC>

> I've recently decided to enter the world of Triumph ownership.  What I
> really want is a TR6, and have ever since they were new, but it seems the
> cost of entry on a Spitfire is lower, making that a bit tempting as well.
> My wife thinks the Spitfire is prettier, but it's not for her and she'd 
> look
> great in the passenger seat of either one. I'd be interested in the
> impressions of anybody who's familiar with both.
>

Cost of a Spit is definitely lower, but the resale value of even very nicely 
restored Spits is not relatively as high as that of a TR6.  I had a '74 Spit 
for a few years and had a lot of fun doing a rolling resto on it, but the I 
needed more power and since have bumped to a '73 GT6 and a '72 TR6.  The TR6 
in '72 still retains the interior look of its predecessors; the '73 TR6 has 
the BL style upgrade.   I always thought the British flag emblem was cool --  
but that's not much of a reason to buy a car.

I would push you in the direction of a TR6 if you have any "get up and go" 
concerns about the Spit, which in my humble estimation needs significant 
upgrades from stock to feed that need.  All that said, I find myself driving 
my GT6 more than my open top car -- it handles better and is more convenient 
when I want to go somewhere in a fun car but don't want any concerns about 
rain.

--
Martin Secrest
Arlington, VA
72 TR6
73 GT6 

From jimbyjove at comcast.net  Thu Nov  5 16:40:49 2009
From: jimbyjove at comcast.net (Jim Coleman)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 18:40:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
Message-ID: <000501ca5e71$67a19ac0$36e4d040$@net>

Russell,

 

Welcome to the Triumph world!  We have some common interests - that is VW
busses.  I have a '79 VW Campmobile and struggle with the thoughts of ever
parting with it.  My first bus was a '69.  But, I have a stronger interest
in TRs and own 3 - a '76 TR6, a '64 TR4 and an '80 TR8.  I won't get into a
debate about which Triumph is best and I have never owned a Spitfire, but I
like those as well.  I do know enough about the Six when compared with the
Spitfire to say that it probably makes for a better highway car and is very
capable of keeping up with and exceeding much of the traffic.  There are
exceptions I know of where the Spits can be made very capable as well.

 

All of my cars are used on the interstate and the Four and the Six have
overdrive, and that is what I am most concerned about when I make
suggestions.  ' What do you expect to do with it' is the question you have
to ask.   All local use, long trips, autocrossing, rallying, etc, etc. ? All
Triumphs are pretty well covered insofar as availability of parts is
concerned.  Your bus carries more than 2 passengers.  The TRs carry two.
There are terrific bargains on TR6s in my opinion and perhaps even better
bargains in the Wedges (TR7, TR8).

 

Regardless of which Triumph you decide on, there are lots to choose from and
always get the best you can afford - no rust would be better.   Like VWs,
there is much online and community support for Triumphs and all you
generally need to do is ask.  Triumph folks are the best.

 

Again Welcome.

 

Jim Coleman

VTR SE Region

Mechanicsville, VA   

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Nov  5 17:00:25 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 17:00:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-DS36FF07DD93C33FC71FE74AFB00@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU144-DS36FF07DD93C33FC71FE74AFB00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911051600k7061c1b6h5d81a8cd7a1c7676@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/5/09, Russell Barr <guzziot at hotmail.com> wrote:
>I've recently decided to enter the world of Triumph ownership.  What I
> really want is a TR6...

Hey Russell --

TRs and a Westy pretty much describe my garage.  You don't say where
you are located but joining a local club is also a good way to find
out more about the cars and about the cars that change hands at the
local level.  In addition,  there may be some here who are close
enough to help you find that car you want.

If you want a TR6 then I think you should be looking for a TR6 -- the
initial cost is soon forgotten as you drive and enjoy your car.

Geo H

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Nov  5 17:41:27 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2009 19:41:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <000501ca5e71$67a19ac0$36e4d040$@net>
Message-ID: <4AF32A67.31434.1F026658@localhost>

On 5 Nov 2009 at 18:40, Jim Coleman wrote:

> I do know enough about the Six when compared with the
> Spitfire to say that it probably makes for a better highway
> car and is very capable of keeping up with and exceeding much
> of the traffic.

Curiously enough, there used to be common saying among the non-
cognescenti "Spitfires are great highway cars."  When I bought mine a 
few decades ago my insurance agent even said it to me.  I can't 
disagree but I wondered at the time where the reputation came from.  
The thing is, they are quite stable on the highway, have no trouble 
maintaining speed, don't mind running hard for long periods.  But do 
look for overdrive.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Nov  5 17:41:27 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2009 19:41:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] (Fwd) Re:  Intro & conversation starter
Message-ID: <4AF32A67.25322.1F0265FB@localhost>

On 4 Nov 2009 at 23:22, Russell Barr wrote:

> My wife thinks the Spitfire is prettier, but it's not for her
> and she'd look great in the passenger seat of either one. I'd
> be interested in the impressions of anybody who's familiar
> with both.

I have only minimal experience with the TR6.  But speaking of wives, 
one reason I ended with a Spitfire instead of something bigger is 
that mine, the wife, not the Spitfire, is only 5'2".  When she would 
sit in the passenger seat of any friend's car the window line would 
be at her neck level.  The Spitfire being smaller and with drop-waist 
doors, the window level comes to her shoulder.  It feels airier that 
way and she is much happier.  I had a TR6 for restoration briefly, 
sold it when someone made an offer.  But I'd measured the interior 
against the Spitfire, surprisingly found that there wasn't much 
difference in most dimensions.  As I recall, the biggest difference 
was floor to top of the doors and dash.  The TR6 had more headroom 
but all the extra height was obtained from floor to door top.  Door 
top to hood was the same.  Width too, as I recall.

I'm with Martin S about the GT6.  I drive it a lot.  It is noisy, 
buzzy, moderately hot in summer, but otherwise a comfortable coupe.  
The Spitfire feels more agile, and being a later model the controls 
(loud pedal, clutch, steering, etc.) feel better calibrated and 
smoother.  The GT6 is obviously quicker.  I suspect a good TR6 would 
feel tighter, more robust than either GT6 or Spitfire, but that's 
just a guess.

Finally, be aware that the best way to get lost in a crowd at a 
Triumph or other LBC show is to arrive in a TR6.  Best way to be 
ignored is to arrive in a Spitfire.  Arrive in a GT6 however and you 
will be in rarified company.


Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Thu Nov  5 17:43:55 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 19:43:55 EST
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
Message-ID: <ca9.52e0d071.3824cb4b@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/5/2009 7:25:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jimbyjove at comcast.net writes:

I have a  '79 VW Campmobile and struggle with the thoughts of ever
parting with  it.


 
Way Cool Jim!
I want one of those. Would you consider a 76 Spitfire 1500 or a 76 VE TR7  
in Trade?
Darrell

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Thu Nov  5 18:09:44 2009
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 20:09:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
Message-ID: <fac10b170911051709w44f063bch9dd42428539abc16@mail.gmail.com>

Russell,
Being another VW bus owner, I prefer the '72 for the newer engine, but still
with the older style bumpers. Not that I'm debating the different VW buses
here on a Triumph list but just to say that in the same way, people will
have their year preferences in a TR6 for different reasons.
So....do you want something very stock in a TR6, as you did with buses, or
would you compromise and go for an upgraded electrical system, for example?
These cars didn't have Bosch you know!
You'll see some different concerns here - no one is paranoid about replacing
their rubber fuel lines every six months, but then, nobody cares about
redline tires on their bus!
I think if you clarified your intended driving preferences (long distance
touring?? autocrossing?? trailering to a concours??) people would then give
you a good set of answers pertinent to those goals.
Good luck,
Jim
60 TR3a w/Delco and Bosch electrics
72 Adventurewagen/Westy hybrid
72 Super Beetle vert
83 Yamaha Maxim 650
80 Vespa P200
===========
Greetings all,
I've recently decided to enter the world of Triumph ownership.  What I
really want is a TR6, and have ever since they were new, but it seems the
cost of entry on a Spitfire is lower, making that a bit tempting as well.
My wife thinks the Spitfire is prettier, but it's not for her and she'd look
great in the passenger seat of either one. I'd be interested in the
impressions of anybody who's familiar with both.

I've been into VW busses for almost 30 years and have a good deal of
experience working on 'em have developed some strong opinions about them
too.  For instance, I think the '71 is the most desirable year of bus,
because it has the old style, easier to work on motor, and also has disk
brakes.  The only bad part of the '71 being that it used the dual-port
motor, which is more powerful but peakier, requiring downshifting more often
than with the older single port motor (in my experience).  The bus I'm
leaving behind is a '69 with a single-port motor, maybe even the original
engine case, and is just about as stock as I could make it during my last
rebuild.  I don't think putting performance mods on a bus motor is a good
idea unless you're going to really do your homework and do things right,
which ends up being ludicrously expensive, and just ends up highlighting its
other limitations.

So that puts me squarely in the realm of codger-dom when it comes to
vehicles, and I'll bet there's quite a few Triumph owners just like me.
Soooo, who's got a favorite year TR6 and why?  I've seen some with
aftermarket superchargers, and the thought of that is a bit on the
intoxicating side.  And they look all shiny and pretty all nestled up
against the motor.
--
Russell Barr
'04 Moto Guzzi EV Touring
'69 VW Bus
Oh yeah, a wife and 4 kids too

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Nov  5 19:46:26 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2009 19:46:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] (Fwd) Re:  Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <4AF32A67.25322.1F0265FB@localhost>
References: <4AF32A67.25322.1F0265FB@localhost>
Message-ID: <4AF38E02.9030503@bradakis.com>

> Finally, be aware that the best way to get lost in a crowd at a 
> Triumph or other LBC show is to arrive in a TR6.  Best way to be 
> ignored is to arrive in a Spitfire.

The Savannah VTR convention back in '92, if memory serves me
right, was celebrating the 30th anniversary of the Spitfire.  That
one is somewhat foggy in my memory - I seem to only recall being
slowly roasted on black asphalt after getting marianated in brake fluid.

I do, however, remember going to the show and seeing nothing but
empty space in the area reserved for Mark 1 and 2 Spitfires.  Some
celebration.

mjb.

From guzziot at hotmail.com  Thu Nov  5 20:02:54 2009
From: guzziot at hotmail.com (Russell Barr)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 19:02:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <4AF32A67.31434.1F026658@localhost>
References: <000501ca5e71$67a19ac0$36e4d040$@net>
	<4AF32A67.31434.1F026658@localhost>
Message-ID: <BLU144-DS7CDE626B93F3662420FD6AFAF0@phx.gbl>

Thanks for the warm welcome!
I've gotten some good advice, and spent about half my workday lurking at
6-pack.org
It looks like the TR6 is the choice for me, because I'll never stop wanting
one till I actually get one.  But it does look like it would be fun to work
on a Spitfire with how the whole front tilts up.  Heard from some other bus
owners too.  Very cool.  Some asked where I live and how I intended to use
it, which is very good question.  Yeah, I'll be swapping way down in terms
of carrying capacity from the bus to any 2-seater, but I can live with that.
Generic people-hauling is what my wife's minivan is for.  My main ride is my
motorcycle, which I ride 25 miles each way to work, rain or shine, as long
as there's no ice or snow to deal with.  When I had a sidecar I even rode
then, until the snow got too deep to push through.  But here's the thing
that I'm almost scared to admit in the company of purists: I'm going to
drive this car in the rain, and probably even snow & ice too.  It won't get
stored for the winter, but will almost certainly be taken out and slid
around when the weather is at its absolute worst.  I live in Centralia, WA,
which is exactly halfway between Seattle and Portland.  Some years there's
no snow here at all, but there's always rain and I'll be driving in it for
sure.  So a concours car is not what I should own, because it won't stay
that way.  It will have a carport to live in, loving maintenance and enough
tools and skill available to do a lot of the small to medium repairs that
will come up.  I've been riding Guzzis for almost as long as I've had
busses, so I'm used to doing some irregular maintenance, like finding or
making odd parts.  I'll expect to be able to drive on the freeway with it so
overdrive sounds like a must.  I take at least 1 ~3000-mile vacation per
year on my bike, and would expect to do the same in the TR.  
--
Russell Barr

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Thu Nov  5 19:44:26 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2009 18:44:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR  6  hardtop
In-Reply-To: <BLU139-W17B0A243D1D8D5E9CD320CB5B00@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU139-W17B0A243D1D8D5E9CD320CB5B00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AF38D8A.1030802@comcast.net>

Hi John,

I just bought a used Parrish hardtop for my TR3. They are still in
business and became Smooth Line. Here is the link:

http://www.smoothline.com/triumph.php

I don't know it this is the maker that you are thinking of, but it's
worth a look.

Mike

john taylor wrote:
> Listers,
>
>  I am again shopping for a TR 6 and wish one in white and with a hardtop. If I
> can not find the factory top then an aftermarket unit would be ok. I have seen
> a unit that looks close to the factory unit. Does anyone know who makes it?
>
> CHEERS
> John
>
> John Taylor
> Greenfield, Ma
> Gloucester, Ma
> USA.
>
> TR 8 o
> TR 8 c
> Jaguar XJ-6

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Nov  5 21:25:06 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 21:25:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] (Fwd) Re:  Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <4AF38E02.9030503@bradakis.com>
References: <4AF32A67.25322.1F0265FB@localhost> <4AF38E02.9030503@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <5DF53F1BC3E341C5B872EEC83BAA8D57@joepentiumnew>

Mark,
I find it hard to believe with the TR4 also introduced in 62, that any
attention was ever given to Spitfire's introduction at a national event.
Which of course gives credence to the "Best way to be ignored is to arrive
in a Spitfire" theory.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 7:46 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] (Fwd) Re: Intro & conversation starter

> Finally, be aware that the best way to get lost in a crowd at a 
> Triumph or other LBC show is to arrive in a TR6.  Best way to be 
> ignored is to arrive in a Spitfire.

The Savannah VTR convention back in '92, if memory serves me
right, was celebrating the 30th anniversary of the Spitfire.  That
one is somewhat foggy in my memory - I seem to only recall being
slowly roasted on black asphalt after getting marianated in brake fluid.

I do, however, remember going to the show and seeing nothing but
empty space in the area reserved for Mark 1 and 2 Spitfires.  Some
celebration.

mjb.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Nov  5 21:25:41 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2009 23:25:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-DS7CDE626B93F3662420FD6AFAF0@phx.gbl>
References: <4AF32A67.31434.1F026658@localhost>
Message-ID: <4AF35EF5.6732.1FCFB01E@localhost>

On 5 Nov 2009 at 19:02, Russell Barr wrote:

> But here's the thing that I'm almost scared to admit in the
> company of purists: I'm going to drive this car in the rain,
> and probably even snow & ice too.

I wouldn't worry about the purists with regards driving in the rain.  
Some of us (mind you, I'm not a concourse-type purist though I do 
appreciate the aesthetics of having things original) hold to the idea 
that driving a Triumph is the best thing one can do with and for it.  
In decent weather I been driving mine to work, 50 miles one way.  
Sharon and I have camped out of both car several times, even for a 
week on Mt. Desert, Maine, about 5 hours from home, in the Spitfire 
and GT6 in adjacent years.  (The temperature got down into the 20's 
during the late fall trip in the GT6, and a hurricane dropped much 
much rain on the Spitfire trip.)

However driving in the snow and ice isn't such a good idea if your 
roads get salted.  Of course, I'm sure you know all about that.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Nov  6 04:30:37 2009
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 11:30:37 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <4AF35EF5.6732.1FCFB01E@localhost>
Message-ID: <991819.64797.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Russell Barr wrote:

> But here's the thing that I'm almost scared to admit in the
> company of purists: I'm going to drive this car in the rain,
> and probably even snow & ice too.

Russell, the snow and ice are one thing - but rain isn't an issue. During this
summer (as many other listers know) I drove a fully rebuilt Triumph Stag from
Florida to California by way of three trips into Canada and another as far
south as Dallas.
Before the car left its place of rebirth in Illinois, it won "Best of Show" at
a local club event, then went under its own power to Florida in 19 hours - and
finally to California in the 70 odd driving days that followed and with me at
the wheel for all but 20 of the intervening 15,466 miles. We had baking heat,
no air-con, phenomenal rainstorms in Indiana, snow in the Rockies and fog in
Nebraska. We avoided armadilloes and various other animals (including a moose)
and killed two rattlesnakes!
At the end of the drive at the VTR/Triumphest event, that same car went on to
win the Concours for a Stag.
What am I trying to say?
Get yourself a Triumph of any model, enjoy playing with it in your shop -
curse it as you inevitably will for whatever it does to you - but above all
DRIVE IT because you truly can drive a car for many thousands of miles and
still win prizes with it - even if you don't own it :)
Whisper whisper - you can probably do much the same in an MG, Healey or even a
Jaguar

Jonmac
(now back in the UK and catching up on some sleep)

From jimbpps at cox.net  Fri Nov  6 08:43:20 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 08:43:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <ca9.52e0d071.3824cb4b@aol.com>
References: <ca9.52e0d071.3824cb4b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9F4B8746B8A74D4097F0676BD30CBF95@JimofficePC>

Darrell,

What is a 'VE TR7'?

I am not familiar with the VE??

Jim
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 5:44 PM
To: jimbyjove at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Intro & conversation starter

In a message dated 11/5/2009 7:25:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jimbyjove at comcast.net writes:

I have a  '79 VW Campmobile and struggle with the thoughts of ever parting with
it.


 
Way Cool Jim!
I want one of those. Would you consider a 76 Spitfire 1500 or a 76 VE TR7 in
Trade?
Darrell
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Nov  6 09:32:56 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 09:32:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <991819.64797.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <4AF35EF5.6732.1FCFB01E@localhost>
	<991819.64797.qm@web28302.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911060832h324c52c5tefcd7eb6c6f7db88@mail.gmail.com>

My TR4 is my daily driver -- I'm in it every day.  Not much snow in
Southern Arizona though once in awhile it catches you (with the top
down):

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Snow2.JPG

You're wise to the value of overdrive though, since you don't see
yourself as a purist, you might want to look at the alternatives that
permit the use of a Toyota (and other) 5-speed in the TR6.

Several systems are out there using either adaptors or purpose-cast
bellhousings.  Even the original style OD is available as a rebuilt
from a very reliable source.  All cost a thou or two but then you'll
likely pay a similar premium for a TR6 with working OD on board -- so
what I'm saying is if you find the right car w/o OD you have some
options available.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov  6 10:57:33 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 09:57:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <9F4B8746B8A74D4097F0676BD30CBF95@JimofficePC>
References: <ca9.52e0d071.3824cb4b@aol.com>
	<9F4B8746B8A74D4097F0676BD30CBF95@JimofficePC>
Message-ID: <7576A24741494CD2B2223EFAB96CBD87@jdnet.deere.com>

> What is a 'VE TR7'?

This might help ...
http://store.vintagepaperads.com/catalog/BB162.jpg

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov  6 11:11:55 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 10:11:55 -0800
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <4AF32A67.31434.1F026658@localhost>
References: <000501ca5e71$67a19ac0$36e4d040$@net>
	<4AF32A67.31434.1F026658@localhost>
Message-ID: <B23FDCD09BA34E20B88E1A4577EDB52D@jdnet.deere.com>

> I can't disagree but I wondered at the time where the 
> reputation came from.  

I think the best answer for that can be found in P.J. O'Rourke's latest
book, "Driving like Crazy".

Anyone who drove a Triumph as a teenager will instantly recognize "Sgt
Dynaflow"; the 56 Buick that "would run forever".

-- Randall  

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Fri Nov  6 14:23:02 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 16:23:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Intro & conversation starter
In-Reply-To: <9F4B8746B8A74D4097F0676BD30CBF95@JimofficePC>
References: <ca9.52e0d071.3824cb4b@aol.com>
	<9F4B8746B8A74D4097F0676BD30CBF95@JimofficePC>
Message-ID: <EB414B7AEDB84BC5928482BC58F20657@artvac412870f0>

Hi Jim,
   I should let Jim answer this himself,(but I can't help myself) my brother 
had one. His was a 76 Coupe.
Darrell's abbreviation has to stand for the "Victory Edition" I don't know 
if they made them
in the following years. It had a Plaque on the dashboard that said Victory 
Edition maybe one
on the rear Boot Lid, I don't remember and a different striping scheme much 
like a dealer
added option. They also came with thick Spoked Steel Wheels (his were White 
as well.)that reminded me of the ones
that came on the Subaru's of the same era,
Cheers,
Wayne Lee
Douglas, MA
64 TR4
75 TR6


--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jim Bauder" <jimbpps at cox.net>
Sent: Friday, November 06, 2009 10:43 AM
To: <TR250Driver at aol.com>; "TR List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Intro & conversation starter

> Darrell,
>
> What is a 'VE TR7'?
>
> I am not familiar with the VE??
>
> Jim
> Jim Bauder
> 480-309-9525
> '68 TR250 CD47L
> Scottsdale, AZ

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Nov  7 10:56:22 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 2009 09:56:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] Tool report : NF thread chasing set at MMC
Message-ID: <20091107175622611.GAGE6968@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

Recently, I wanted to clean up some 9/16-18 threads on my TR3 front
suspension (upper ball joints to be precise); but the tap & die set I've
been using for many years only goes up to 1/2-20.  Turns out a standard
9/16-18 die also takes a bigger handle than my set includes, so the die & a
handle started getting kind of expensive for just chasing one thread.

So, I tried this set instead:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2667A12

So far, I have been very pleased with it; one of those things I wish I'd
bought years ago.  The dies are the same size as standard nuts, so you can
turn them with the same socket or wrench, and they will fit anywhere that a
nut would.  Much easier to use in close quarters (like the studs that hold
the shock to the spring pan).   They also work much better on interrupted
threads (like the front spindles and the pins that hold the rear springs to
the frame), because they have 6 teeth instead of the standard 3.  

They seem to form the threads more than cut them; the instructions note that
they cannot be used for cutting new threads (which is an advantage when you
are trying to clean up existing threads).   However, they do take a little
more force to turn than a standard cutting die.  The instructions also
recommend using cutting oil, which is a very good idea IMO.

MMC also offers the same set for coarse threads:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2667A11

Randall

From agraham at execulink.com  Sat Nov  7 11:14:42 2009
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 2009 13:14:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 frt. brake dust shields
Message-ID: <200911071814.nA7IEUca016542@smtp1.execulink.net>

Hello List:
Just wondering how many TR3 owners are still using the dust shields 
on their front brakes? Are they really necessary? Can understand why 
competition prepared '3s do not use them, but how necessary are they 
for street use?
Trying to piece together a front disc set-up and many of the dust 
shields I have found have broken mounting tabs.
Thanks for any insights.
Angelo Graham

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Nov  7 11:58:37 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 2009 11:58:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tool report : NF thread chasing set at MMC
In-Reply-To: <20091107175622611.GAGE6968@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <20091107175622611.GAGE6968@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4AF5C35D.3090508@bradakis.com>

We have a similar set at Bailey's, with coarse and fine in the same
case.  As one who did a lot of the work on old British cars, I used
it quite frequently.  Very handy to have around.

Actually I shouldn't say "we" anymore.  There just weren't enough
people paying to have others work on their toys, so work was very
slow.  It just wasn't worth it to keep me around on a somewhat
regular basis, so I am no longer employed at Bailey's.  Shucks.
Back to looking seriously for Unix/Linux computer jobs.

If special projects come up, like rebuilding TR transmissions, Mike
will call me in, but  I doubt that will happen very often.  So it goes.

mjb.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Nov  7 13:37:29 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 2009 15:37:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tool report : NF thread chasing set at MMC
In-Reply-To: <20091107175622611.GAGE6968@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <20091107175622611.GAGE6968@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <AC1F693454CE4F13BE36DCFB9AD5D22F@BOBSNEWPC>

Sears sells what's called a Tap & Die Master Rethreader Kit
(http://tinyurl.com/yg22kya) Same idea as what you got in that it's only
used for cleaning up (not cutting) nut & bolt threads. I picked one up a few
years ago and use it every time I disassemble something.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 12:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tool report : NF thread chasing set at MMC

Recently, I wanted to clean up some 9/16-18 threads on my TR3 front
suspension (upper ball joints to be precise); but the tap & die set I've
been using for many years only goes up to 1/2-20.  Turns out a standard
9/16-18 die also takes a bigger handle than my set includes, so the die & a
handle started getting kind of expensive for just chasing one thread.

So, I tried this set instead:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2667A12

So far, I have been very pleased with it; one of those things I wish I'd
bought years ago.  The dies are the same size as standard nuts, so you can
turn them with the same socket or wrench, and they will fit anywhere that a
nut would.  Much easier to use in close quarters (like the studs that hold
the shock to the spring pan).   They also work much better on interrupted
threads (like the front spindles and the pins that hold the rear springs to
the frame), because they have 6 teeth instead of the standard 3.  

They seem to form the threads more than cut them; the instructions note that
they cannot be used for cutting new threads (which is an advantage when you
are trying to clean up existing threads).   However, they do take a little
more force to turn than a standard cutting die.  The instructions also
recommend using cutting oil, which is a very good idea IMO.

MMC also offers the same set for coarse threads:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2667A11

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Nov  7 16:09:05 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 2009 18:09:05 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 frt. brake dust shields
Message-ID: <d63.45e37d0f.38275811@cs.com>

In a message dated 11/7/2009 1:07:41 PM Central Standard Time, 
agraham at execulink.com writes: 
> Just wondering how many TR3 owners are still using the dust shields 
> on their front brakes? Are they really necessary? Can understand why 
> competition prepared '3s do not use them, but how necessary are they 
> for street use?
> Trying to piece together a front disc set-up and many of the dust 
> shields I have found have broken mounting tabs.
> Thanks for any insights.
> Angelo Graham
> 

Good question and timely, too.  My TR3 came without dust shields.  I 
chalked it up to the DPO and was looking at fitting some TR6 shields that I have 
as spares.  I even powder coated them. ;-)

So, were they stock on a 57 and will TR6 shields fit?

Dave

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Nov  8 08:01:52 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 15:01:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 frt. brake dust shields
In-Reply-To: <d63.45e37d0f.38275811@cs.com>
References: <d63.45e37d0f.38275811@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W37473038888886110CA0D6E5AD0@phx.gbl>

When I installed the Revington rack & pinion steering in my TR3A the
instructions said to remove the dust shields.  I have never missed them.

Best regards,

Tom



> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> Date: Sat, 7 Nov 2009 18:09:05 -0500
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 frt. brake dust shields
>
> In a message dated 11/7/2009 1:07:41 PM Central Standard Time,
> agraham at execulink.com writes:
> > Just wondering how many TR3 owners are still using the dust shields
> > on their front brakes? Are they really necessary? Can understand why
> > competition prepared '3s do not use them, but how necessary are they
> > for street use?
> > Trying to piece together a front disc set-up and many of the dust
> > shields I have found have broken mounting tabs.
> > Thanks for any insights.
> > Angelo Graham
> >
>
> Good question and timely, too.  My TR3 came without dust shields.  I
> chalked it up to the DPO and was looking at fitting some TR6 shields that I
have
> as spares.  I even powder coated them. ;-)
>
> So, were they stock on a 57 and will TR6 shields fit?
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/

From tdskip at yahoo.com  Sun Nov  8 09:32:46 2009
From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 08:32:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Guys - contact me before bidding on Tr-man items on eBay
Message-ID: <494044.94582.qm@web55602.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

This guy sells TR parts and occasional high ticket items like overdrives.

I had an experience that cost me $$$ that you might want to be aware of. Best
to handle via email off the list.
 
 

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sun Nov  8 09:36:01 2009
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 10:36:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 frt. brake dust shields
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W37473038888886110CA0D6E5AD0@phx.gbl>
References: <d63.45e37d0f.38275811@cs.com>
	<BAY110-W37473038888886110CA0D6E5AD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000901ca6091$8f1409e0$ad3c1da0$@net>

I have never used them (60K+ miles).  I was told they were the first thing
the competition department removed.

kg


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 9:02 AM
To: dave1massey at cs.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 frt. brake dust shields

When I installed the Revington rack & pinion steering in my TR3A the
instructions said to remove the dust shields.  I have never missed them.

Best regards,

Tom



> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> Date: Sat, 7 Nov 2009 18:09:05 -0500
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 frt. brake dust shields
>
> In a message dated 11/7/2009 1:07:41 PM Central Standard Time,
> agraham at execulink.com writes:
> > Just wondering how many TR3 owners are still using the dust shields
> > on their front brakes? Are they really necessary? Can understand why
> > competition prepared '3s do not use them, but how necessary are they
> > for street use?
> > Trying to piece together a front disc set-up and many of the dust
> > shields I have found have broken mounting tabs.
> > Thanks for any insights.
> > Angelo Graham
> >
>
> Good question and timely, too.  My TR3 came without dust shields.  I
> chalked it up to the DPO and was looking at fitting some TR6 shields that
I
have
> as spares.  I even powder coated them. ;-)
>
> So, were they stock on a 57 and will TR6 shields fit?
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From wquincy at cox.net  Sun Nov  8 15:55:45 2009
From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:55:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
Message-ID: <4DBF869A-CEFA-42FA-A4F5-3397024C096B@cox.net>

Greetings Listers,

My TR3 wants to run at about 200 to 210 degrees with a Hayden  
Electric Fan on the front side of the radiator.  I've been told it  
works better on the back side, what's the opinion of the list on  
this? Thanks in advance for the wisdom I'm about to receive.
Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov  8 18:35:17 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 17:35:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
In-Reply-To: <4DBF869A-CEFA-42FA-A4F5-3397024C096B@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20091109013517854.KMQE3390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> My TR3 wants to run at about 200 to 210 degrees with a Hayden  
> Electric Fan on the front side of the radiator.  I've been told it  
> works better on the back side, what's the opinion of the list on  
> this? 

I believe that the fan in front of the radiator does interfere to some
extent with cooling at speed (when the fan itself is useless), but that the
difference is relatively small.  I would be looking elsewhere for your
problem.

One strange thing that happened to the original radiator in my TR3A was that
it simply lost cooling efficiency, apparently because the tubes were no
longer in good thermal contact with the fins.  It flowed water just fine,
and did not leak, but also did not keep the engine cool.  After a year of
fiddling with other things, I finally had the radiator tested for
efficiency.  A re-core made all the cooling problems disappear.

Randall

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Nov  8 19:11:24 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 21:11:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
In-Reply-To: <4DBF869A-CEFA-42FA-A4F5-3397024C096B@cox.net>
References: <4DBF869A-CEFA-42FA-A4F5-3397024C096B@cox.net>
Message-ID: <B8004274BC724B08B791DA62E3B1EFCF@DCH6RFC1>

In my humble opinion one could write books on TR3s, electric fans and
temperature readings.  My experience is that fan placement would not change
a car which runs hot into a car which runs normal.  That is, if the car is
running hot at all.  Given the vagaries of temperature gauges, I'd suggest
getting an infrared gun or another gauge before assuming anything about how
the car runs. 

I have 2 TR3s and two gauges:  depending on which gauge is in which car, I
have one car which consistently runs at 200 and another which consistently
runs at around 170.  Each has a new radiator and a reconditioned gauge;
both cars are set up correctly; neither pings and the temperature in
Massachusetts affects both equally.  Bottom line for me is I have stopped
worrying about what the gauge says.

Andrew Uprichard



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William C. Quincy
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 5:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement

Greetings Listers,

My TR3 wants to run at about 200 to 210 degrees with a Hayden  
Electric Fan on the front side of the radiator.  I've been told it  
works better on the back side, what's the opinion of the list on  
this? Thanks in advance for the wisdom I'm about to receive.
Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Nov  8 19:13:27 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 21:13:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
In-Reply-To: <4DBF869A-CEFA-42FA-A4F5-3397024C096B@cox.net>
References: <4DBF869A-CEFA-42FA-A4F5-3397024C096B@cox.net>
Message-ID: <424E0F94104B4B0C8D16D25930CC5D16@DCH6RFC1>

Sorry - I guess I didn't answer the question. Both my cars have "puller"
fans.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William C. Quincy
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 5:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement

Greetings Listers,

My TR3 wants to run at about 200 to 210 degrees with a Hayden  
Electric Fan on the front side of the radiator.  I've been told it  
works better on the back side, what's the opinion of the list on  
this? Thanks in advance for the wisdom I'm about to receive.
Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://www.team.net/archive

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Nov  8 19:18:45 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 19:18:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
In-Reply-To: <4DBF869A-CEFA-42FA-A4F5-3397024C096B@cox.net>
References: <4DBF869A-CEFA-42FA-A4F5-3397024C096B@cox.net>
Message-ID: <2745C87BF1904B7E84F0B91BB7714204@joepentiumnew>

With a proper shroud, an electric fan mounted behind the radiator will be
superior to one in front.

1. In front, part of the fan housing is blocking air flow through the
radiator.
2. the fan pulling air through the radiator will get more air flowing over
the coils.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William C. Quincy
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 3:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement

Greetings Listers,

My TR3 wants to run at about 200 to 210 degrees with a Hayden  
Electric Fan on the front side of the radiator.  I've been told it  
works better on the back side, what's the opinion of the list on  
this? Thanks in advance for the wisdom I'm about to receive.
Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Sun Nov  8 19:47:23 2009
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 19:47:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
In-Reply-To: <20091109013517854.KMQE3390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
References: <20091109013517854.KMQE3390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <A0D6AAD4-8590-4EC0-8875-B5074536E85F@cox.net>

When I first got my TR3A it had a hard time dealing with the Phoenix  
heat.  Based on the advice from the list I had the radiator recored  
(without the crank hole).  Based on the advice from the radiator shop  
I also had a piece of "angle iron" braised to each side to attache a  
large electric fan on the front side and a modern refill neck that  
better allows the use of an overflow bottle.

Here is a URL with some pictures of what I had done.
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/radiator.html

When I asked a friend who is a physicist, if there were any  
differences between a push or a pull fan, he said there was a  
theoretical but not a practical advantage for a puller.  He said the  
speed of the airflow being pulled through the radiator was slightly  
slower & thus slightly more efficient the faster air immediately  
behind a pusher. He said a spacer between the fan & a front mounted  
radiator would accomplish the same thing.

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/



On  8 Nov, 2009, at 6:35 PM, Randall wrote:

>> My TR3 wants to run at about 200 to 210 degrees with a Hayden
>> Electric Fan on the front side of the radiator.  I've been told it
>> works better on the back side, what's the opinion of the list on
>> this?
>
> I believe that the fan in front of the radiator does interfere to some
> extent with cooling at speed (when the fan itself is useless), but  
> that the
> difference is relatively small.  I would be looking elsewhere for your
> problem.
>
> One strange thing that happened to the original radiator in my TR3A  
> was that
> it simply lost cooling efficiency, apparently because the tubes were  
> no
> longer in good thermal contact with the fins.  It flowed water just  
> fine,
> and did not leak, but also did not keep the engine cool.  After a  
> year of
> fiddling with other things, I finally had the radiator tested for
> efficiency.  A re-core made all the cooling problems disappear.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Nov  8 19:51:29 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 2009 21:51:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil on the top?
Message-ID: <4AF73D61.30322.DD96ED@localhost>

My Spitfire's tranny has been leaking oil onto theechaust pipe.  So 
today I pulled the Spitfire's tranny cover in preparation pulling the 
whole tranny just to replace all its gaskets.  Then I thought I 
should first try to tighten up any loose bolts and seal anything else 
possible before going through the trouble of pulling the whole thing 
out.  After all, the only bolts not accessible from the outside are 
those between the bell housing to tranny case.

Then I noticed that there was standing oil on the very top, right up 
on the little plate that is maybe 3"x4", the little plate held down 
by two long bolts on the back edge and two shorter bolts on the front 
edge.  This plate also has what looks like an air vent valve or 
something.  What's going on here?  Surely it isn't meant to be 
external lubrication...


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Nov  8 21:25:33 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 21:25:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 frt. brake dust shields
In-Reply-To: <000901ca6091$8f1409e0$ad3c1da0$@net>
References: <d63.45e37d0f.38275811@cs.com><BAY110-W37473038888886110CA0D6E5AD0@phx.gbl>
	<000901ca6091$8f1409e0$ad3c1da0$@net>
Message-ID: <90D206C1588F438C80F36098B77156F1@bboffice>

> > Just wondering how many TR3 owners are still using the dust shields 
> > on their front brakes? ......


I have them on my car because the PO had them on there, no problems so far,
they are in good condition. 

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Nov  8 21:27:31 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 21:27:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil on the top?
In-Reply-To: <4AF73D61.30322.DD96ED@localhost>
References: <4AF73D61.30322.DD96ED@localhost>
Message-ID: <C128DD3773564CD2A32C76F356C32ADD@bboffice>

Just a little off-subject, but what is the best way to clean all that
baked-on oil from the exhaust pipe?  It is a brand new pipe, no rust but
lots of oil stain.  Just pulled the engine this week to repair the rear main
and would like to have a clean non-smelly exhaust system when I re-assemble.
I'm thinking steel wool, is there anything better?

Thx,
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:51 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] oil on the top?

My Spitfire's tranny has been leaking oil onto theechaust pipe.  So today I
pulled the Spitfire's tranny cover in preparation pulling the whole tranny
just to replace all its gaskets.  Then I thought I should first try to
tighten up any loose bolts and seal anything else possible before going
through the trouble of pulling the whole thing out.  After all, the only
bolts not accessible from the outside are those between the bell housing to
tranny case.

Then I noticed that there was standing oil on the very top, right up on the
little plate that is maybe 3"x4", the little plate held down by two long
bolts on the back edge and two shorter bolts on the front edge.  This plate
also has what looks like an air vent valve or something.  What's going on
here?  Surely it isn't meant to be external lubrication...


--
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Nov  9 05:44:50 2009
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 07:44:50 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
Message-ID: <d10.5ca7da9b.382968c2@aol.com>

Hi all;
 
As per everyone else's opinion, the fan isn't the problem. Unless you're in 
 hot weather and stuck in traffic, and if the engine is in fact operating 
at the  temps suggested (i.e., not an inaccurate gauge),  then something else 
is  wrong.
 
If it helps, I went through a similar dilemma. I had the radiator recored  
six years ago, retaining the starting handle hole (I had a bomb starter at 
the  time, unknowingly mated to a later ring gear, so was having major 
starter  problems and didn't want to delete the handle facility). Since, I've 
never been  completely happy with the temperature but it seemed to be getting 
steadily  worse, year by year. I thought I'd checked everything and was 
starting to think  about electric fan, aluminum radiator, etc. etc. Then I decided 
to just flush  the system and what a difference! I know I'm stupid for not 
doing it sooner and  I know it's the obvious thing to do, but if there's any 
danger at all of any  rubbish in that cooling system then I'd flush it and 
see what happens.  Incidentally, I did not see anything nasty coming out of 
the cooling system when  I flushed it; just green coolant.
 
In fact, as a result of this experience I will probably flush the system  
every two years. I wouldn't do it in a more modern vehicle but on an engine  
that's 52 years old, there's bound to be stuff flaking off and stuff 
building  up, I guess.
 
Tiim
''57 TR3A, '65 Volvo PV544 Sport, '51 Chev 3-ton, '91 Mustang convertible,  
'52 Understanding Wife.
 
Tim Dyer,  Proprietor
Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road,  RR3
Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada 
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture 
Industry  professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and 
Christmas Tree  Farmers of Ontario

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Nov  9 10:13:27 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 09:13:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Guys - contact me before bidding on Tr-man items on  eBay
In-Reply-To: <527106.3949.qm@web55607.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
References: <527106.3949.qm@web55607.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <623833.90766.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I think this is one of the great reasons for the list.
Our reproduction parts
are made mainly in Asia because they are the only one's who will make small
quantity runs at a reasonable price. But along with that comes occasional poor
quality. And we need to keep each other informed when a really bad batch comes
along.
And then there are the individuals who do not act like gentlemen. And
we donbt need to keep our hurt limited to the big 3.
I worked with Bob
Danielson a couple of years ago and did some custom CNC machine work for him.
With his encouragement I started to make miscellaneous parts for triumphs. One
was a fuel pump blank off plate for the TR3/4 motors. None had ever been made
before. It took careful measuring, machining, re-measuring and fine tuning,
before finally going into production. 
I sold them on eBay and made a little
money. Probably a few hundred bucks.
So this one guy buys one from me
(charger440rt). And a week later he is selling them on eBay for 5.00 less than
me.
When I suggested to him nicely that this was not gentlemanly behavior he
wrote back with a nasty abusive email and threatened to sue me! 
He is still
trying to sell my design. What aB bum he is.
he also sells other triumph
related stuff, and i often wonder where he steals those parts from.
Letbs
not let cads off easily. I say we tell it like it is.
Frank
B 
B 
B B 
________________________________

I invested about 4 hours in the measurement
and planning.

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Mon Nov  9 11:35:58 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 13:35:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Guys - contact me before bidding on Tr-man items on  eBay
In-Reply-To: <623833.90766.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <527106.3949.qm@web55607.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
	<623833.90766.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30911091035r221f46c0q5487429b50b98368@mail.gmail.com>

I totally agree Frank. LBCs (Lying Bloody Cads) should be identified so that
those of us with good intent buy from the good guys. Charger 440rt, and
those like him, should be black-balled. I'd include those that blatantly,
intentionally misrepresent the items they sell, in terms of condition or
serviceability.

Brian



On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 12:13 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I think this is one of the great reasons for the list.
> Our reproduction parts
> are made mainly in Asia because they are the only one's who will make small
> quantity runs at a reasonable price. But along with that comes occasional
> poor
> quality. And we need to keep each other informed when a really bad batch
> comes
> along.
> And then there are the individuals who do not act like gentlemen. And
> we donb t need to keep our hurt limited to the big 3.
> I worked with Bob
> Danielson a couple of years ago and did some custom CNC machine work for
> him.
> With his encouragement I started to make miscellaneous parts for triumphs.
> One
> was a fuel pump blank off plate for the TR3/4 motors. None had ever been
> made
> before. It took careful measuring, machining, re-measuring and fine tuning,
> before finally going into production.
> I sold them on eBay and made a little
> money. Probably a few hundred bucks.
> So this one guy buys one from me
> (charger440rt). And a week later he is selling them on eBay for 5.00 less
> than
> me.
> When I suggested to him nicely that this was not gentlemanly behavior he
> wrote back with a nasty abusive email and threatened to sue me!
> He is still
> trying to sell my design. What aB bum he is.
> he also sells other triumph
> related stuff, and i often wonder where he steals those parts from.
> Letb s
> not let cads off easily. I say we tell it like it is.
> Frank
> B
> B
> B B
> ________________________________
>
> I invested about 4 hours in the measurement
> and planning.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Nov  9 11:34:51 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 2009 10:34:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 badge bars
Message-ID: <4AF860CB.1000907@gmail.com>

I do not remotely like the TR3A badge bar and I'm no longer a stickler 
for originality.  I have a post TS60000 3A that I would like to put 
driving lights on

Does anyone know if the badge bar made for the early TR3 bumper fits the 
late TR3A bumper???  If not does anyone know if the early bumper fits a 
late 3A.

Also as I remember the bumper mounts of a TR3A and a big Healey are the 
same space apart.  Has anyone tried to fit a big Healey badge bar to a 
late TR3A?

I need a new bumper and overriders & thought I would look for a solution 
that would allow me to mount my lights low in front of the grille.

Teriann

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov  9 12:15:07 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 11:15:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
In-Reply-To: <d10.5ca7da9b.382968c2@aol.com>
References: <d10.5ca7da9b.382968c2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6AEF5257F71249EF9D0D3D6E18AEEC02@jdnet.deere.com>

> In fact, as a result of this experience I will probably flush 
> the system every two years.

Until the last 10 years or so, that was recommended by most car makers.  The
additives in the classic 'green' antifreeze get consumed over time (whether
the car is driven or not), and it's best to flush the system when changing
coolant, so that all the old, degraded stuff gets flushed out.  The TR3
owner's manual says to change the antifreeze every year.

The various "long life" coolant (antifreeze) formulas available today do
last longer, but should still be flushed and changed periodically.  And
there has been enough said about the hazards of switching (in particular
with installing Dex-Cool into an engine that has previously used "green
stuff"), that I'm going to stick with green.

-- Randall  

From agmarshall at hotmail.com  Mon Nov  9 14:25:50 2009
From: agmarshall at hotmail.com (Austin Marshall)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 13:25:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6
Message-ID: <SNT129-W20EBC4707F97588650BEB5CDAC0@phx.gbl>

TR enthusiasts,



I am selling my 1973 TR6. I am located in Twin Peaks, CA. Pictures are
available at Triumph Owners website address.



http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?section=triumph&vehicleID=984&i=1


I love the car but am getting ready for a move where extra baggage is
difficult to store. Contact me for more information.



Thanks,






Austin Marshall


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From blanoway at shaw.ca  Mon Nov  9 15:17:17 2009
From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 16:17:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 - collapsible steering column?
Message-ID: <0A86ABEB9A454A909B7BF2A9E24BED1C@Lanowaylaptop>

My son is in the early phases of a TR3 restoration and hes now at the stage
where hes getting close to a rolling chassis.  After having a close look at
the steering column  and reminding myself that it could act like a spear in
a frontal collision, I started to wonder if anyone had adapted a collapsible
steering column (similar to the one I have in my TR6) for a TR3.

His TR3A commission number is in the TS 80000 series.

Has anyone on the List incorporated a collapsible steering column into their
TR3 and maintained the original steering wheel/hub?  His budget cant quite
yet afford a rack and pinion upgrade so we would be working with the
original steering box for now.

Thanks much in advance,

Brian Lanoway
Winnipeg

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov  9 16:26:22 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 15:26:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 - collapsible steering column?
In-Reply-To: <0A86ABEB9A454A909B7BF2A9E24BED1C@Lanowaylaptop>
References: <0A86ABEB9A454A909B7BF2A9E24BED1C@Lanowaylaptop>
Message-ID: <88B46D2B666E47558F0106365C433E69@jdnet.deere.com>

> Has anyone on the List incorporated a collapsible steering 
> column into their

I haven't.  However, having seen several badly wrecked TR3s (and been in a
few of them), I feel this is not a significant concern.  The steering box is
both down very low, and very well protected by both the body and the frame.


Unlike more modern cars, the primary crush zone in these cars is the
passenger compartment (weakest part of both body & frame).  One of the cars
I parted out had apparently been driven into a solid object (telephone pole,
perhaps) at high speed.  The front part of the frame was only collapsed by a
few inches, but the dash was very nearly touching both the floor and the
back of the seat.

BTW, I am getting close to ready to dispose of the body tub & frame of my
wrecked TR3A, TS39781LO.  The frame & front third of the body could probably
be salvaged if anyone wants them ... Otherwise they are going to the
crusher.  The RF lower suspension mount is broken away from the frame, and
the inner wing has some damage on that side.  Floors were already pretty
well shot, but the inner sills might be worth saving (looks like the right
side is broken away from it's mount, though).  Not much left in the back,
but possibly a few smaller areas are salvageable (like the panel around the
fuel filler).

Price is right (free), and I'll even help with moving if you aren't too far
away from Lakewood, CA.

-- Randall  

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Nov  9 16:32:24 2009
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 23:32:24 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
In-Reply-To: <6AEF5257F71249EF9D0D3D6E18AEEC02@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <841184.52284.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

With regard to this particular thread - and a similar one of a week or 10 days
ago on tropical fans.
If anyone is interested, I have come across some original factory reports
written by my late father in the late 1950's on general cooling issues of the
wet liner four. They make for interesting reading and I am happy to re-key
certain paragraphs and report content if anyone is interested in reading them.
However I am mindful of limits on submissions to the list in terms of message
length - and topicality. Perhaps MJB (or someone else?) would let me know?

Jonmac

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Nov  9 16:45:30 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 18:45:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 badge bars
In-Reply-To: <4AF860CB.1000907@gmail.com>
References: <4AF860CB.1000907@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <200911091845.30501.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 09 November 2009 01:34:51 pm TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
> I do not remotely like the TR3A badge bar and I'm no longer a stickler
> for originality.  I have a post TS60000 3A that I would like to put
> driving lights on
> 
> Does anyone know if the badge bar made for the early TR3 bumper fits the
> late TR3A bumper???  If not does anyone know if the early bumper fits a
> late 3A.
> 
> Also as I remember the bumper mounts of a TR3A and a big Healey are the
> same space apart.  Has anyone tried to fit a big Healey badge bar to a
> late TR3A?
> 
> I need a new bumper and overriders & thought I would look for a solution
> that would allow me to mount my lights low in front of the grille.
> 
> Teriann

Teriann,

I made a badge bar from a chrome piece I had laying around.

It is secured with the 2 bolts on the top of the over-riders.

I have 2 Raydyots mounted + the autox badge.

This bar has been on the car for about 30 years.

Photo @ http://www.triumphowners.com/1331

Similar setup on the TR4 but secured a bit different due to the forward opening 
of the hood. http://www.triumphowners.com/1330



Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov  9 16:49:49 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 15:49:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
In-Reply-To: <841184.52284.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <6AEF5257F71249EF9D0D3D6E18AEEC02@jdnet.deere.com>
	<841184.52284.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1C93BDBA607B404EB79D5ECB456E1406@jdnet.deere.com>

> However I am mindful of limits on submissions 
> to the list in terms of message length - and topicality. 

Jonmac, I would be interested in ANY information you care to share, both for
technical content and for the glimpses of history it provides.

However, since the list limit per message is rather low (approximately 1000
characters), I think it would be better if you were to compose a document
that could be shared on a web (or FTP) site or perhaps by private email.

I'll be glad to help in any way I can, including document conversion and
posting on a web site.  We can certainly find room for it; if not on
Team.Net then VTR or any number of other club/member sites.

-- Randall  

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Nov  9 18:47:43 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 17:47:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 badge bars
Message-ID: <347413.53255.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

HI Terry,     Tell us what you end up with.     I bought a badge bar and put
on Lucas driving lights and my various badges. My TR3A had been running
consistently at 185 F regardless of outside temperatures. With the badges and
all it jumped to about 205 to 210. I took the badges off, but left the bar and
lights on and it is still running 200 or so. I probably will just remove the
works completely now.     I might make up something to mount the lights below
the grill in front of the bumper and then hope I don't bump something.
      Bill in Tehachapi

From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
Subject: [TR] TR3 badge bars
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4AF860CB.1000907 at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I do not remotely like the TR3A badge bar and I'm no longer a stickler 
for originality.  I have a post TS60000 3A that I would like to put 
driving lights on

Does anyone know if the badge bar made for the early TR3 bumper fits the 
late TR3A bumper???  If not does anyone know if the early bumper fits a 
late 3A.

Also as I remember the bumper mounts of a TR3A and a big Healey are the 
same space apart.  Has anyone tried to fit a big Healey badge bar to a 
late TR3A?

I need a new bumper and overriders & thought I would look for a solution 
that would allow me to mount my lights low in front of the grille.

Teriann

From tdskip at yahoo.com  Mon Nov  9 19:16:34 2009
From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 18:16:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Update on TR-man
Message-ID: <282234.53017.qm@web55602.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

Guys - with help from a BCF member I heard back from the seller tonight. I am happy to say we are going to try and work something out. Thanks for all the notes from the list, and am hoping to report back that this is resolved. I remember that when I had my business somethings good things came out of resolved misunderstandings, and I hope that is the case here as well.

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Nov  9 19:41:14 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 20:41:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 badge bars
In-Reply-To: <200911091845.30501.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <4AF860CB.1000907@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W176CE5A74CA86227CCDD36E1AB0@phx.gbl>

> It is secured with the 2 bolts on the top of the over-riders.


How did you bolt it on?



I assume you drilled holes in the overriders, but how did you attach the rod?

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Nov  9 20:42:07 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 22:42:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake help
Message-ID: <BAY123-W1C4E13EE9B5DDA754EFBEBAAB0@phx.gbl>

A friend of mine is restoring a TR3 that has set for years. He has picked
quite an ambitious project. He brought over the front brake calipers this
evening looking for advice. One is for sure toast. The other he cannot get one
of the pistons out of. He has had it soaking in a pan of blaster for a week
and it wont budge. Pretty much destroyed the piston trying to get it to move.
First question, on the back of the caliper there is what appears to be a plug
with a large screwdriver slot in it. It looks like if this plug was removed
the piston could be pushed out. However, he says the manual states DO NOT
REMOVE THIS PLUG. Can this instruction be ignored? He is trying to work on
this car a little at a time and does not have a big budget. Is there any
possibility of converting over to a TR6 disc brake set up or something else
that is more available? I'm not familiar with the TR3's. Any advice?

Thanks,
Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: Unclutter your desktop.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9690331&ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:
WWL_WIN_evergreen:112009

From auprichard at comcast.net  Tue Nov 10 03:58:12 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 05:58:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake help
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W1C4E13EE9B5DDA754EFBEBAAB0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W1C4E13EE9B5DDA754EFBEBAAB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D7943B0C722D497685EE253E559F610E@DCH6RFC1>

I removed the pistons in my restoration by tapping out a bolt to take a
grease nipple and then forcing grease into the caliper.  Worked fine.  I
don't know about the plug, but if you have gone this far and nothing else
works, what have you to lose?  In terms of converting, e.g. to a TR6 set-up,
I am not familiar with what is possible, but the TR3 calipers are readily
available.  If you contact me offline, I can get a pair for you.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 10:42 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake help

A friend of mine is restoring a TR3 that has set for years. He has picked
quite an ambitious project. He brought over the front brake calipers this
evening looking for advice. One is for sure toast. The other he cannot get
one
of the pistons out of. He has had it soaking in a pan of blaster for a week
and it wont budge. Pretty much destroyed the piston trying to get it to
move.
First question, on the back of the caliper there is what appears to be a
plug
with a large screwdriver slot in it. It looks like if this plug was removed
the piston could be pushed out. However, he says the manual states DO NOT
REMOVE THIS PLUG. Can this instruction be ignored? He is trying to work on
this car a little at a time and does not have a big budget. Is there any
possibility of converting over to a TR6 disc brake set up or something else
that is more available? I'm not familiar with the TR3's. Any advice?

Thanks,
Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: Unclutter your desktop.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9690331&ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US
:
WWL_WIN_evergreen:112009
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov 10 06:29:53 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 08:29:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake help
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W1C4E13EE9B5DDA754EFBEBAAB0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W1C4E13EE9B5DDA754EFBEBAAB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC30210547020B-31F4-A4BB@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com>

 My advice is to send them off to professionals.  It is likely they have
encountered this before and know how to handle it.  If you muck it up you will
end up with a compromised braking system and you don't want that.

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 9:42 pm
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake help










A friend of mine is restoring a TR3 that has set for years. He has picked
quite an ambitious project. He brought over the front brake calipers this
evening looking for advice. One is for sure toast. The other he cannot get
one
of the pistons out of. He has had it soaking in a pan of blaster for a week
and it wont budge. Pretty much destroyed the piston trying to get it to move.
First question, on the back of the caliper there is what appears to be a plug
with a large screwdriver slot in it. It looks like if this plug was removed
the piston could be pushed out. However, he says the manual states DO NOT
REMOVE THIS PLUG. Can this instruction be ignored? He is trying to work on
this car a little at a time and does not have a big budget. Is there any
possibility of converting over to a TR6 disc brake set up or something else
that is more available? I'm not familiar with the TR3's. Any advice?

Thanks,
Marty

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Nov 10 09:08:52 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 11:08:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Guys - contact me before bidding on Tr-man items on eBay
In-Reply-To: <623833.90766.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <527106.3949.qm@web55607.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
	<623833.90766.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E4247C5FB15646E589AA3B84A5F47320@BobPC>

Frank............ Rick Patton had the exact same problem with his Fan 
Eliminator Kit. I don't remember the guy's eBay name but he basically took 
Rick's kit, copied it exactly and sells it for a few bucks less. I'm all for 
new creative products but if you're going to steal someone's idea, at least 
make an attempt to improve on the original concept. One of the things I 
respect about Rick is that he will not make a product that someone else is 
already selling, even if it's Moss or TRF. Too bad everyone doesn't have 
that integrity.

And Frank.............. that fuel blanking plate was for the TR6 too!  You 
can see Frank's stuff here:  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 12:13 PM
To: "Tom Deutsch" <tdskip at yahoo.com>
Cc: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Guys - contact me before bidding on Tr-man items on  eBay

> I think this is one of the great reasons for the list.
> Our reproduction parts
> are made mainly in Asia because they are the only one's who will make 
> small
> quantity runs at a reasonable price. But along with that comes occasional 
> poor
> quality. And we need to keep each other informed when a really bad batch 
> comes
> along.
> And then there are the individuals who do not act like gentlemen. And
> we donbt need to keep our hurt limited to the big 3.
> I worked with Bob
> Danielson a couple of years ago and did some custom CNC machine work for 
> him.
> With his encouragement I started to make miscellaneous parts for triumphs. 
> One
> was a fuel pump blank off plate for the TR3/4 motors. None had ever been 
> made
> before. It took careful measuring, machining, re-measuring and fine 
> tuning,
> before finally going into production.
> I sold them on eBay and made a little
> money. Probably a few hundred bucks.
> So this one guy buys one from me
> (charger440rt). And a week later he is selling them on eBay for 5.00 less 
> than
> me.
> When I suggested to him nicely that this was not gentlemanly behavior he
> wrote back with a nasty abusive email and threatened to sue me!
> He is still
> trying to sell my design. What aB bum he is.
> he also sells other triumph
> related stuff, and i often wonder where he steals those parts from.
> Letbs
> not let cads off easily. I say we tell it like it is.
> Frank
> B
> B
> B B
> ________________________________
>
> I invested about 4 hours in the measurement
> and planning.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From trstreep at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 10 12:45:01 2009
From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 13:45:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] VTR Convention
Message-ID: <KIEHKFKPJNJONEIJGKEDGENPDJAA.trstreep@sbcglobal.net>

Triumphistae,
	I have been asked to put together a story for the Vintage Triumph Register
magazine about any Easterners who attended this year's VTR convention in San
Luis Obispo. If you, or someone you know from the Eastern Seaboard, made the
trek to the west coast in a Triumph, I'd really like to hear about your
trip. Please contact me off list at your earliest convenience. If you know
of someone from your local club who went, but is not a member of the list,
I'd appreciate it if you'd ask them to call or email me.

TIA
Bob Streepy,
Associate Editor, The Vintage Triumph
630/372-7565
trstreep at sbcbglobal.net

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Tue Nov 10 13:16:22 2009
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 15:16:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 brake help
Message-ID: <fac10b170911101216j7dce4313j6066370ef5ea62d2@mail.gmail.com>

Marty,
One option I have used with success is to drill a hole in the stuck piston,
tap threads in it, and then turn a bolt into the threads. The bolt will
bottom out and draw the piston out as you turn it.
Jim
==============================
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake help

A friend of mine is restoring a TR3 that has set for years. He has picked
quite an ambitious project. He brought over the front brake calipers this
evening looking for advice. One is for sure toast. The other he cannot get
one
of the pistons out of. He has had it soaking in a pan of blaster for a week
and it wont budge. Pretty much destroyed the piston trying to get it to
move.
First question, on the back of the caliper there is what appears to be a
plug
with a large screwdriver slot in it. It looks like if this plug was removed
the piston could be pushed out. However, he says the manual states DO NOT
REMOVE THIS PLUG. Can this instruction be ignored? He is trying to work on
this car a little at a time and does not have a big budget. Is there any
possibility of converting over to a TR6 disc brake set up or something else
that is more available? I'm not familiar with the TR3's. Any advice?

Thanks,
Marty

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Nov 10 15:42:58 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 17:42:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 badge bars
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W176CE5A74CA86227CCDD36E1AB0@phx.gbl>
References: <4AF860CB.1000907@gmail.com>
	<SNT123-W176CE5A74CA86227CCDD36E1AB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <200911101742.59015.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 09 November 2009 09:41:14 pm Rich White wrote:
> > It is secured with the 2 bolts on the top of the over-riders.
> 
> How did you bolt it on?
> 
> 
> 
> I assume you drilled holes in the overriders, but how did you attach the
>  rod?
> 
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
> 
> '63 TR3B TCF587L
> 
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

Rich,

On my 3, (a 58), the top of the over-riders are secured to the body with a 
chrome stay. All I did was get a 1/2 inch longer bolt and bolted both the 
home-made bar and the over-rider stay to the over-rider on both sides. The nut 
on the top of the over-rider was welded at the factory.

The only drilling I had to do was to the badge bar.

I believe the bolt is a 3/8 24 but I could be wrong.

The 4 was not as easy due to the front opening hood. The badge bar is much 
lower and is secured to the bumper using home-made brackets secured using the 
license plate holes. What cannot be seen is 2 angle brackets behind the bar 
that hook onto the rear of the bumper to offer some stability.

Bob

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 10 16:27:22 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 15:27:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] brake upgrades
Message-ID: <282225.48686.qm@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

listers,
are the sunbeam as well as morgan wheel cylinders available at any parts store?  Or through an online supplier?

thanks

gary n.

From agraham at execulink.com  Tue Nov 10 18:10:20 2009
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 20:10:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 heater motor
Message-ID: <200911110110.nAB1AKg3020946@smtp1.execulink.net>

Hello List:
Was working on my heater and turns out that the core is still good 
after sitting for 40+ years. Just wondering if anyone has found a 
modern substitute for the Smith's fan in the unit. Mine works, but it 
is pretty feeble even with direct 12 volts applied. Intend to clean 
and re-lube the motor. Has anyone tried to fit a fan motor of similar 
size - VW, Toyota, etc that might work? Would be nice to have a bit 
more air "rushing" through the defroster hoses.
Thanks for any insights.
Angelo Graham

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 10 18:26:20 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 17:26:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4-Broken piston liner; now Webers
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10911101726x16ef50cbjab932e8fe7bb0077@mail.gmail.com>

For those of you following my personal rebuild saga, I followed all
recommendations and closed up the engine. No noticeable noise, other than
the very "talky" Webers. I found a mechanic - that's his term - who restores
Italian cars so knows his Webers. I bought one hour of his time, and he fine
tuned and balanced and declared them good. And they are indeed a blast to
drive.

I need air filters.Can anyone out there recommend specific filter model
numbers for my two 42 DCOE's with 3 inch air horns? I find the various
websites not very helpful, in that they never seem to specify if the filter
is suited to air horns. Terri-Anne - I've read your treatise many times,
finding it at least as helpful as the several books I have, but  don't quite
get the filter discussion. Which ITG do you use?  I know the socks and
screen caps are no good, but never see a picture of the oval enclosed K&N
type hangin off the end of air horns.

Mnay thanks, as always. The Black TR is on the road!

John

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Nov 10 19:45:54 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 18:45:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 OD Trans Problem?
Message-ID: <241856.60559.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I've had my TR3A off the road for a month while I installed an
aftermarket heater (which works great!).  I had to relocate the relay for the
A-type overdrive to fit the heater. I moved it from the rear wall of the
battery box to the drivers side of the battery box. No big deal. I didn't even
have to disconnect the wires. Everything worked well before moving the
solenoid except that sometimes the relay wouldn't work unless I jiggled a
certain wire. I think that the relay had a weak contact inside. I fixed that
with some electrical tape so the wire always had a little strain on the relay
fitting.      Anyway, when backing out of the garage for a test drive, the car
didn't want to roll backwards and at one point I had it in reverse and nothing
happened when I revved the engine with the clutch out. My street is on a hill
and when I got to the stop sign the car didn't roll backwards when in neutral
as usual. The overdrive doesn't engage. The
 other 4 gears work fine.     The not rolling backwards thing concerns me.    
Also, the trans has been rattling when I accelerate in the gears.     I am
thinking about starting with a new relay and testing the electrical.     Any
ideas?     I think that HVDA conversions are the sane way to go.
     Bill in Tehachapi     

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Tue Nov 10 20:54:57 2009
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 19:54:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake help
References: <BAY123-W1C4E13EE9B5DDA754EFBEBAAB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <FA490AD678514643AA81989F9ED6EAD2@Dell>

My approach when faced with this problem was to take one of the flexible 
lines, which I was replacing anyway. and cut it in half.  I then took a tire 
valve and carved away the rubber from the bottom part leaving a brass tube 
which fits nicely into the cut end of the brake hose. (I may have actually 
run it through a die to cut threads into it and then screwed itinto the 
hose, it's been awhile) A hose clamp or even twisted wire to secure the hose 
to the valve would probably help, but I don't think I needed it.  I then 
reattached the hose to the caliper and, because at the time I didn't have a 
compressor, I used a bicycle pump on the tire valve and one caliper popped 
out. I put it back in and secured it with a C clamp and pumped again until 
the other one popped.

Worked for me.

Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 7:42 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Brake help


>A friend of mine is restoring a TR3 that has set for years. He has picked
> quite an ambitious project. He brought over the front brake calipers this
> evening looking for advice. One is for sure toast. The other he cannot get 
> one
> of the pistons out of. He has had it soaking in a pan of blaster for a 
> week
> and it wont budge. Pretty much destroyed the piston trying to get it to 
> move.
> First question, on the back of the caliper there is what appears to be a 
> plug
> with a large screwdriver slot in it. It looks like if this plug was 
> removed
> the piston could be pushed out. However, he says the manual states DO NOT
> REMOVE THIS PLUG. Can this instruction be ignored? He is trying to work on
> this car a little at a time and does not have a big budget. Is there any
> possibility of converting over to a TR6 disc brake set up or something 
> else
> that is more available? I'm not familiar with the TR3's. Any advice?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Tue Nov 10 20:42:41 2009
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 19:42:41 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 heater motor
References: <200911110110.nAB1AKg3020946@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <D6EDE0764FA94FF0AACDC957736AB67B@Dell>

Angelo,

The heater fan motor from a 1971-1978 Freightliner truck, Karquest #  HTR 
20892 is the same size as the original Triumph fan motor.  The problem is 
that the mounting is at the wrong end so some brackets have to be fabricated 
to attach it into the heater core.



I used 1/8 inch by 1-1/8 inch steel stock. I cut 2 lengths 3 = to 4 inches, 
enough to be able to put a bend in either end and leave 3 = to 3 > inch 
straight run which is the length of the motor.



I drilled holes in each of the bends to receive the mounting bolts and a 
large hole at the bottom to pass the wires through due to the unfortunate 
placement of the mounting studs relative to the wire connections.  I can 
send you pictures if you're interested.

Bob.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angelo Graham" <agraham at execulink.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 5:10 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 heater motor


> Hello List:
> Was working on my heater and turns out that the core is still good after 
> sitting for 40+ years. Just wondering if anyone has found a modern 
> substitute for the Smith's fan in the unit. Mine works, but it is pretty 
> feeble even with direct 12 volts applied. Intend to clean and re-lube the 
> motor. Has anyone tried to fit a fan motor of similar size - VW, Toyota, 
> etc that might work? Would be nice to have a bit more air "rushing" 
> through the defroster hoses.
> Thanks for any insights.
> Angelo Graham
> _______________________________________________

From tom628 at verizon.net  Tue Nov 10 21:27:03 2009
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 23:27:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] brake upgrades
References: <282225.48686.qm@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <33568C3CB30C46E3B41E8F2C055F268C@Toms>

Gary: I ordered the Morgan cyls. from British  Parts North West (BPNW). I 
understand that Ted at TSI also carries them, but i didn't know that at the 
time.
I also installed Ted's Kevlar front pads and rear shoes.The improvement was 
remarkable.
I believe the Sunbeam and Morgan cyls. are the same. In any event, you want 
the 7/'8" cylinders.

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 6:27 PM
Subject: [TR] brake upgrades


> listers,
> are the sunbeam as well as morgan wheel cylinders available at any parts 
> store?  Or through an online supplier?
>
> thanks
>
> gary n.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov 10 22:16:07 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 21:16:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 OD Trans Problem?
In-Reply-To: <241856.60559.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20091111051607060.KNYC6968@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

Bill,

Sounds to me as though your OD is stuck engaged, somehow.  Your strain on
the relay terminal may have caused a short; or maybe it's just coincidence
that the OD got stuck mechanically.  I'm leaning towards the latter, since
it was apparently already stuck when you tried to back out of the garage.

I would disconnect the solenoid wire from the relay, and see if that frees
up reverse.  If not, it's time to start pulling things apart.

If it does, then you've got an electrical problem, likely the relay itself.

You might also check that you don't have a brake that is hung up; as they
are sometimes more noticeable in reverse.

Oh, and most likely you know this, but : Don't force it backwards if it
doesn't want to go!  It can make an expensive mess out of your OD.

Randall 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Wed Nov 11 03:24:09 2009
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 05:24:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A OD
Message-ID: <D2D1449F3AF44A33B7814874E6E01D70@AlexPC>

Question on the wiring on my TR3A (A Type) OD. My OD works perfectly well in
all gears. However, when I park it and turn off the car with the OD switch in
the on position (down) the battery will drain until it requires a charge to
start the car. I would assume this is not normal, and I have wired it
incorrectly. Any thoughts?
Alex
59 TR3A

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Wed Nov 11 03:30:15 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 11:30:15 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
References: <6AEF5257F71249EF9D0D3D6E18AEEC02@jdnet.deere.com><841184.52284.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<1C93BDBA607B404EB79D5ECB456E1406@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <DC579BD854744870911FED37E879701C@Study>

I hope that all listers will be able to access whatever historical TR 
cooling gems of knowledge may emerge from John Macartney's post of 
yesterday!

David Brister
1967 TR4A 


--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 613 of my spam emails to date.
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From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Nov 11 06:13:43 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 08:13:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  TR3A OD
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30911110511k79244bafrbd2cba6637d6b04a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D2D1449F3AF44A33B7814874E6E01D70@AlexPC>
	<a38798b30911110511k79244bafrbd2cba6637d6b04a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30911110513g3fd3ea30qe196f634f980f2bb@mail.gmail.com>

As an OD neophyte, I would summise that you have your OD circuit always hot,
rather than switched through the ignition. Consequntly, when you have the
car all tucked up in the garage, with the OD switch 'on', the OD thinks its
still flying down the highway: the plunger is holding in the engaged
position, draining your battery.

Connect the harness to a switched supply and 'off' really will be off.

Brian

  On Wed, Nov 11, 2009 at 5:24 AM, Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Question on the wiring on my TR3A (A Type) OD. My OD works perfectly well
> in
> all gears. However, when I park it and turn off the car with the OD switch
> in
> the on position (down) the battery will drain until it requires a charge to
> start the car. I would assume this is not normal, and I have wired it
> incorrectly. Any thoughts?
> Alex
> 59 TR3A
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Nov 11 06:44:56 2009
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 13:44:56 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
In-Reply-To: <DC579BD854744870911FED37E879701C@Study>
Message-ID: <161300.87930.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

David

I've had a number of kind offers from several people who have undertaken to
put the detail on their websites. This is very kind and much appreciated.
I anticipate being able to send the finished material out in the next few
days. Currently I'm having a bit of a problem trying to decipher Dad's
handwriting. He always drafted his reports in pencil, his handwriting was very
spidery and the paper used by the company was not of modern quality. I'm
currently on a topic where I'm trying to sort out the relevant from the not so
relevant on this general topic.
If anyone has some ultra-powerful spectacles and a highly polished crystal
ball to help me work out what he actually said - bless him, I'd be most
grateful :)

Cheers, Jonmac



--- On Wed, 11/11/09, David Brister <david.brister at wanadoo.fr> wrote:

From: David Brister <david.brister at wanadoo.fr>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Electric Fan Placement
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, 11 November, 2009, 10:30

I hope that all listers will be able to access whatever historical TR
cooling gems of knowledge may emerge from John Macartney's post of
yesterday!

David Brister
1967 TR4A


--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 613 of my spam emails to date.
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From dlylis at gmail.com  Wed Nov 11 07:15:47 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 14:15:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A OD
Message-ID: <mailman.24.1257948987.3237.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I would check it by making sure the tranny is only in first gear when parked.  You therefore have no path to ground as the tranny switch is not engaged. It is in 2, 3, 4. It makes sense to me that this would happen as the switch is on, if in another gear power is fed to the solenoid, and the solenoid goes to ground. I may be missing somwthing here but that is how I see it. 
------Original Message------
From: Alex
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: Triumphs List
Subject: [TR] TR3A OD
Sent: Nov 11, 2009 5:24 AM

Question on the wiring on my TR3A (A Type) OD. My OD works perfectly well in
all gears. However, when I park it and turn off the car with the OD switch in
the on position (down) the battery will drain until it requires a charge to
start the car. I would assume this is not normal, and I have wired it
incorrectly. Any thoughts?
Alex
59 TR3A
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 11 08:03:36 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 07:03:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A OD
In-Reply-To: <D2D1449F3AF44A33B7814874E6E01D70@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <20091111150336581.LPCX5263@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> I would assume this is not normal, and I have wired it
> incorrectly. Any thoughts?

Yup, that's right.

Unfortunately there are several different, valid ways of wiring it, the
original wiring on TS39781LO did not match the diagram given in the workshop
manual; so it's a bit difficult to give a wire-by-wire troubleshooting
procedure.  But basically, the operating relay coil should only get power
when the ignition is on (and the OD switches are closed); while the contacts
are hot all the time.

Note also that the OD should only operate in 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears.  If it
works in first gear, then you also have a problem with the wiring to the
'isolator' switches on the gearbox top cover (or one of the switches
itself).  This is dangerous, because it will damage the OD badly if you back
up with it engaged.

Randall

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Wed Nov 11 08:55:05 2009
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 10:55:05 EST
Subject: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal
Message-ID: <c07.6e6a62c5.382c3859@aol.com>

A guaranteed method of removing stuck pistons from calipers goes like this:

Braze a grease nipple into an old brake line fitting.   Screw the fitting 
into the caliper and apply grease with a gun.   Grease cannot be compressed 
and the piston(s) will come creeping out.   Secure the first out with a clamp 
or block of wood until the second emerges.   Messy but very effective.

George

From geo at ohio.net  Wed Nov 11 10:18:29 2009
From: geo at ohio.net (geo b free)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 12:18:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal
In-Reply-To: <c07.6e6a62c5.382c3859@aol.com>
References: <c07.6e6a62c5.382c3859@aol.com>
Message-ID: <11799FD56E484BBF89A69D5299A004BC@winxpmce>

another way to sometimes get the piston out.... duct tape :) blocks of wood 
to the face where the pistons are located not blocking the pistons. then 
smack the wood on the concrete floor. the wood stops the caliper from being 
harmed and the piston moves out

--------------------------------------------------
From: <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 10:55 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal

> A guaranteed method of removing stuck pistons from calipers goes like 
> this:
>
> Braze a grease nipple into an old brake line fitting.   Screw the fitting
> into the caliper and apply grease with a gun.   Grease cannot be 
> compressed
> and the piston(s) will come creeping out.   Secure the first out with a 
> clamp
> or block of wood until the second emerges.   Messy but very effective.
>
> George
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Nov 11 10:29:16 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 12:29:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal
In-Reply-To: <c07.6e6a62c5.382c3859@aol.com>
References: <c07.6e6a62c5.382c3859@aol.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30911110929m178ea4afg7de74407bff055e4@mail.gmail.com>

I'd try compressed air first, just in case that works. It easier to clean up
than getting the grease out ;) I have read that the grease method can move
caliper pistons that compressed air can't shift.

Be careful though. If the air works, its a big bang and the piston may come
out at speed. Put a blanket over the caliper, or some other precaution, like
a C-clamp.

I have also read of people using the car's hydraulic system to achieve the
same effect - remove the caliper from the rotor but leave the hydraulic line
attached, hang it from the suspension by a piece of coat hanger, and press
the pedal.

Another thought: when I was stuck with a stuck piston, I saw a couple of
suggestions / solutions online.

   - Use a plumbers test plug of appropriate diameter (expands inside the
   caliper, providing a point of leverage).
   - Use a pair of pliers made for this job. I could only find Japanese ones
   ($$$). These were similar to the pliers I've seen at HF for spreading
   Battery cable end-terminals, but bigger: Squeezing the handles together
   pushes the business end apart, gripping the piston's inner walls so you
   can agitate it out of its hole.

Brian



On Wed, Nov 11, 2009 at 10:55 AM, <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com> wrote:

> A guaranteed method of removing stuck pistons from calipers goes like this:
>
> Braze a grease nipple into an old brake line fitting.   Screw the fitting
> into the caliper and apply grease with a gun.   Grease cannot be compressed
> and the piston(s) will come creeping out.   Secure the first out with a
> clamp
> or block of wood until the second emerges.   Messy but very effective.
>
> George
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Wed Nov 11 12:00:33 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 13:00:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal
References: <c07.6e6a62c5.382c3859@aol.com>
	<a38798b30911110929m178ea4afg7de74407bff055e4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <44B21D05C2144B50A42FB3F14A544CD7@KARL>

The safety aspect is why you should use grease - or oil, or any liquid - 
rather than a compressible gas.  A grease gun can generate many times the 
pressure your compressor can, but even so, as soon as the piston comes to 
the edge of the bore, the pressure is relieved immediately and there's no 
force left to shoot the piston through your head.

Karl


> I'd try compressed air first, just in case that works. It easier to clean 
> up
> than getting the grease out ;) I have read that the grease method can move
> caliper pistons that compressed air can't shift.
>
> Be careful though. If the air works, its a big bang and the piston may 
> come
> out at speed. Put a blanket over the caliper, or some other precaution, 
> like
> a C-clamp.

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Nov 11 13:32:32 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:32:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Caliper Piston Removal
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30911111231q453f004j293082a43b42356b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c07.6e6a62c5.382c3859@aol.com>
	<11799FD56E484BBF89A69D5299A004BC@winxpmce>
	<a38798b30911111231q453f004j293082a43b42356b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30911111232p449fd48cled305a184cca3ddd@mail.gmail.com>

Geo - that sounds like the Hardy-Spicer approach to getting the piston
out...

Brian

  On Wed, Nov 11, 2009 at 12:18 PM, geo b free <geo at ohio.net> wrote:

> another way to sometimes get the piston out.... duct tape :) blocks of wood
> to the face where the pistons are located not blocking the pistons. then
> smack the wood on the concrete floor. the wood stops the caliper from being
> harmed and the piston moves out
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 10:55 AM
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal
>
>
> A guaranteed method of removing stuck pistons from calipers goes like this:
>>
>> Braze a grease nipple into an old brake line fitting.   Screw the fitting
>> into the caliper and apply grease with a gun.   Grease cannot be
>> compressed
>> and the piston(s) will come creeping out.   Secure the first out with a
>> clamp
>> or block of wood until the second emerges.   Messy but very effective.
>>
>> George
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From chandler.rick at comcast.net  Wed Nov 11 14:06:41 2009
From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 13:06:41 -0800
Subject: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal
Message-ID: <8DE62593C81240948B6F4E707668BC5A@ricksoffice>

Subject: Re: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal

 

I've used compressed air to loosen a half-dozen caliper pistons from some
very nasty motorcycle and auto calipers, without a failure. Apply lots of PT
Blaster and soak the cylinder wall for a few hours. Place a thin strip of
wood between the two pistons (one or two wooden paint stirrers work well),
nearly filling the space. Apply 90 psi of air to the hydraulic port in short
bursts; my mean time to success is a few seconds. Once the pistons are free
and the cylinders and caliper bodies are cleaned up, insert the rubber seals
and new stainless pistons, then fill the system with de-aerated DOT5 and say
goodbye to corrosion and paint damage. The slight difference in fluid
compressibility between DOT5 and other fluid grades is overwhelmed by the
expanding flexible lines; you'll never feel the difference.

 

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1972 Nordon Commando 750 Combat

1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 11 14:10:15 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 13:10:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal
In-Reply-To: <44B21D05C2144B50A42FB3F14A544CD7@KARL>
References: <c07.6e6a62c5.382c3859@aol.com><a38798b30911110929m178ea4afg7de74407bff055e4@mail.gmail.com>
	<44B21D05C2144B50A42FB3F14A544CD7@KARL>
Message-ID: <B255B411581F4C57BB288DA3CE4B80A8@jdnet.deere.com>

> The safety aspect is why you should use grease

OTOH, we were talking about the early "one piece" calipers, where there is
essentially no chance for the pistons to fly out.

Since the calipers can't be disassembled, it's also rather difficult to be
sure you've got all the grease cleaned out afterwards.

IMO a piece of 1x2 lumber stuck through the center is plenty of stop for the
piston as it is ejected.  And if your air line can't muster enough pressure;
my favorite trick of filling the inside with solvent, plugging the holes,
and then heating until the solvent boils, will.

-- Randall  

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Nov 11 15:26:21 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 22:26:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Wrench:  TR3A OD Drain Plug
In-Reply-To: <969154329.2588851257978280182.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1894994289.2589271257978381369.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I've tried several makeshift wrenches, but haven't gotten the drain plug
satisfactorily tightened.



My sister-in-law drew my name for Christmas, and I thought a real wrench would
be nice.B But I can't remember where to source one.B 



Have tried both TRF and Moss, but neither carry.B 



Check archives and can't find the source of the socket Randall mentioned
there.



Anyone remember where these might be had?



Terry Smith, '59B  TR3A TS 58667

New Hampshire

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Nov 11 15:32:43 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:32:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal
In-Reply-To: <B255B411581F4C57BB288DA3CE4B80A8@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <c07.6e6a62c5.382c3859@aol.com>
	<a38798b30911110929m178ea4afg7de74407bff055e4@mail.gmail.com>
	<44B21D05C2144B50A42FB3F14A544CD7@KARL>
	<B255B411581F4C57BB288DA3CE4B80A8@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <3yXV1d0015K6Zm805yXVrD@charter.net>

At 04:10 PM 11/11/2009, Randall wrote:
>my favorite trick of filling the inside with solvent, plugging the holes,
>and then heating until the solvent boils, will.

"Not heated with an open flame?" he asked hopefully... 

From blanoway at shaw.ca  Wed Nov 11 15:40:57 2009
From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:40:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 carb rebuild - replacing the jet, vendor experience
Message-ID: <437162E09B894AC0B6F1C5FB363CCB50@Lanowaylaptop>

In disassembling the carbs on my 1973 TR6 (175CD-2SEV), I noticed that the
orifice in both jets has been worn into an oval.  Assuming that this is not
good, Ive searched through several references (Bentley, Hayes, Buckeye) and
no one talks about replacing these jets.  Is that some that a mere mortal
can do in his own garage with normal tools  or should this be done by a
professional shop instead?

Thinking that sending them to a rebuild shop might be an option, I looked at
a Paltech (http://www.paltech1.com/) who are now selling carb rebuilds on
eBay.  Has anyone had any experience with this vendor?  Are there other ZS
carb rebuild vendors out that I should look at instead?

Thanks so much in advance,

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg, Canada

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 11 16:01:38 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:01:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] brake upgrade......tr-6
Message-ID: <372490.26709.qm@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I'm having problems finding the bigger rear wheel cylinders at victoria british or BPNW.  I'm finding the page for the sunbeam cylinders in the victoria british online catalogue but they offer 3 styles with no way to figure out which is the appropriate one for tr-6.  they don't seem to list them in sizes but use sunbeam chassis numbers which is foreign to me. 

Also BPNW has triumph parts not sunbeam.
if anyone has more precise information it would be helpful.

gary n.

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Nov 11 16:20:28 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:20:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wrench:  TR3A OD Drain Plug
In-Reply-To: <1894994289.2589271257978381369.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <969154329.2588851257978280182.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1894994289.2589271257978381369.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6B918FCF1ED6431AAF7960B28B7BA63E@joepentiumnew>

Have you tried Joe Alexander?  I seem to recall that he made up a bunch of
those for sale.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 3:26 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Wrench: TR3A OD Drain Plug

I've tried several makeshift wrenches, but haven't gotten the drain plug
satisfactorily tightened.



My sister-in-law drew my name for Christmas, and I thought a real wrench
would
be nice.B But I can't remember where to source one.B 



Have tried both TRF and Moss, but neither carry.B 



Check archives and can't find the source of the socket Randall mentioned
there.



Anyone remember where these might be had?



Terry Smith, '59B  TR3A TS 58667

New Hampshire
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Nov 11 16:32:14 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 18:32:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wrench: TR3A OD Drain Plug
In-Reply-To: <1894994289.2589271257978381369.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <969154329.2588851257978280182.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1894994289.2589271257978381369.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <a38798b30911111532g3dd9b7f5t12bf459f07335697@mail.gmail.com>

Is it one of these: ebay item 130284370437

*http://tinyurl.com/y9krzw9*
It looks like the top of a castellated tower - a ring of square teeth cut
out of a metal cylinder?
Brian
On Wed, Nov 11, 2009 at 5:26 PM, <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

> I've tried several makeshift wrenches, but haven't gotten the drain plug
> satisfactorily tightened.
>
>
>
> My sister-in-law drew my name for Christmas, and I thought a real wrench
> would
> be nice.B But I can't remember where to source one.B
>
>
>
> Have tried both TRF and Moss, but neither carry.B
>
>
>
> Check archives and can't find the source of the socket Randall mentioned
> there.
>
>
>
> Anyone remember where these might be had?
>
>
>
> Terry Smith, '59B  TR3A TS 58667
>
> New Hampshire
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 11 16:41:40 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:41:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal
In-Reply-To: <3yXV1d0015K6Zm805yXVrD@charter.net>
References: <c07.6e6a62c5.382c3859@aol.com><a38798b30911110929m178ea4afg7de74407bff055e4@mail.gmail.com><44B21D05C2144B50A42FB3F14A544CD7@KARL><B255B411581F4C57BB288DA3CE4B80A8@jdnet.deere.com>
	<3yXV1d0015K6Zm805yXVrD@charter.net>
Message-ID: <F6EAB793D2BA4BA995F9511658B7A5E2@jdnet.deere.com>

> "Not heated with an open flame?" he asked hopefully... 

Now where is the fun in that?

Yes, I use an open flame (propane torch), and yes, I sometimes (although not
usually) get a little "poof" of flame when it opens up.  Eye protection
would be a good idea, but I've never so much as singed an eyebrow doing this
(though there is a clutch MC piston still up in the rafters somewhere <G>).

But if you would rather use electric heat, then by all means do so.

-- Randall  

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Nov 11 16:52:22 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:52:22 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 carb rebuild - replacing the jet, vendor  experience
Message-ID: <230711781.68088.1257983542481.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>

Brian,

I think many members on the list will vote for Paltech.  For the price, his
work cannot be beat.  He is easy to work with, they look brand new when he is
done.  I highly recommend him.

Craig
72 TR6
Vienna, VA

On Nov 11, 2009, Brian Lanoway <blanoway at shaw.ca> wrote:

In disassembling the carbs on my 1973 TR6 (175CD-2SEV), I noticed that the
orifice in both jets has been worn into an oval. Assuming that this is not
good, Ive searched through several references (Bentley, Hayes, Buckeye) and
no one talks about replacing these jets. Is that some that a mere mortal
can do in his own garage with normal tools  or should this be done by a
professional shop instead?

Thinking that sending them to a rebuild shop might be an option, I looked at
a Paltech (http://www.paltech1.com/) who are now selling carb rebuilds on
eBay. Has anyone had any experience with this vendor? Are there other ZS
carb rebuild vendors out that I should look at instead?

Thanks so much in advance,

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg, Canada
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Nov 11 16:52:48 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:52:48 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 carb rebuild - replacing the jet, vendor  experience
Message-ID: <1971171725.68131.1257983568123.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>

Brian,

I think many members on the list will vote for Paltech.  For the price, his
work cannot be beat.  He is easy to work with, they look brand new when he is
done.  I highly recommend him.

Craig
72 TR6
Vienna, VA

On Nov 11, 2009, Brian Lanoway <blanoway at shaw.ca> wrote:

In disassembling the carbs on my 1973 TR6 (175CD-2SEV), I noticed that the
orifice in both jets has been worn into an oval. Assuming that this is not
good, Ive searched through several references (Bentley, Hayes, Buckeye) and
no one talks about replacing these jets. Is that some that a mere mortal
can do in his own garage with normal tools  or should this be done by a
professional shop instead?

Thinking that sending them to a rebuild shop might be an option, I looked at
a Paltech (http://www.paltech1.com/) who are now selling carb rebuilds on
eBay. Has anyone had any experience with this vendor? Are there other ZS
carb rebuild vendors out that I should look at instead?

Thanks so much in advance,

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg, Canada
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Nov 11 17:30:44 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:30:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wrench:  TR3A OD Drain Plug
In-Reply-To: <1894994289.2589271257978381369.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1894994289.2589271257978381369.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4AFB5734.2070500@bradakis.com>

Are you talking about the small, square headed pipe plug, or the large,
flat brass plug which holds the filter in place on an A type?

I've always used a hammer and a suitable drift to remove and
install the large brass plugs, carefully applying the force to
the notches in the cap.

mjb.

From tr6parts at charter.net  Wed Nov 11 17:57:48 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:57:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] brake upgrade......tr-6
References: <372490.26709.qm@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <416E0048A2D14AD093AF74AB0E72049B@Alan>

The correct part # at VB is 7-946 for the bigger wheel cylinder.

Don't forget the wheel cylinder fitting kit.

Al
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 6:01 PM
Subject: [TR] brake upgrade......tr-6


> I'm having problems finding the bigger rear wheel cylinders at victoria 
> british or BPNW.  I'm finding the page for the sunbeam cylinders in the 
> victoria british online catalogue but they offer 3 styles with no way to 
> figure out which is the appropriate one for tr-6.  they don't seem to list 
> them in sizes but use sunbeam chassis numbers which is foreign to me.
>
> Also BPNW has triumph parts not sunbeam.
> if anyone has more precise information it would be helpful.
>
> gary n.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From emanteno at gmail.com  Wed Nov 11 18:00:06 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:00:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] brake upgrade......tr-6
In-Reply-To: <372490.26709.qm@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <372490.26709.qm@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <354a1780911111700w4e545dfame50571eb3537abda@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Nov 11, 2009 at 5:01 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I'm having problems finding the bigger rear wheel cylinders at victoria
> british or BPNW.  I'm finding the page for the sunbeam cylinders in the
> victoria british online catalogue but they offer 3 styles with no way to
> figure out which is the appropriate one for tr-6.  they don't seem to list
> them in sizes but use sunbeam chassis numbers which is foreign to me.
>
> Also BPNW has triumph parts not sunbeam.
> if anyone has more precise information it would be helpful.


Got mine from BPNW, but they aren't listed for a TRiumph. I think they are
Morgan parts.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Wed Nov 11 18:24:26 2009
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:24:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A OD drain plug
Message-ID: <fac10b170911111724k19a2955eh7ad5e096b23a0fe0@mail.gmail.com>

> An oil filter wrench worked beautifully for me.
>
Jim
=====================

> Subject: Re: [TR] Wrench:  TR3A OD Drain Plug
>
> Are you talking about the small, square headed pipe plug, or the large,
> flat brass plug which holds the filter in place on an A type?
>
> I've always used a hammer and a suitable drift to remove and
> install the large brass plugs, carefully applying the force to
> the notches in the cap.
>
> mjb.

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Nov 11 18:35:43 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:35:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Caliper Piston Removal
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30911111735y71ac9c38oe90e88d498d4469b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8DE62593C81240948B6F4E707668BC5A@ricksoffice>
	<a38798b30911111735y71ac9c38oe90e88d498d4469b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30911111735x13d0ea2cvdf461b23950ad10e@mail.gmail.com>

We digress, but among this list's perpetual discussions, the Ying and Yang
of Triumph lore, are Push Vs Puller fans, drivetrain lubrication, and brake
fluif.

I thought the non-issue about DOT 5 was about it having a slightly lower
boiling point than DOT 3 or 4, rather than a reduced hydraulic capability.
This may be a concern for real TR racers. On the upside, it neither absorbs
water nor reverts paint to a fluid form. I think the bubble issue is
overstated. Marvel at its pretty purple colour, pour carefully, and you'll
not have a problem.

Brian


On Wed, Nov 11, 2009 at 4:06 PM, Rick <chandler.rick at comcast.net> wrote:

> Subject: Re: [TR] Caliper Piston Removal
>
>
>
> I've used compressed air to loosen a half-dozen caliper pistons from some
> very nasty motorcycle and auto calipers, without a failure. Apply lots of
> PT
> Blaster and soak the cylinder wall for a few hours. Place a thin strip of
> wood between the two pistons (one or two wooden paint stirrers work well),
> nearly filling the space. Apply 90 psi of air to the hydraulic port in
> short
> bursts; my mean time to success is a few seconds. Once the pistons are free
> and the cylinders and caliper bodies are cleaned up, insert the rubber
> seals
> and new stainless pistons, then fill the system with de-aerated DOT5 and
> say
> goodbye to corrosion and paint damage. The slight difference in fluid
> compressibility between DOT5 and other fluid grades is overwhelmed by the
> expanding flexible lines; you'll never feel the difference.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick in Seattle
>
> 1960 TR3A
>
> 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special
>
> 1972 Nordon Commando 750 Combat
>
> 1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From carlsereda at aol.com  Wed Nov 11 19:05:17 2009
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 18:05:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] Z carb rebuilders
Message-ID: <44FC5549.DA67.4C4E.AD19.2CAABC36803E@aol.com>

Joe Curto Inc in New York did a fine job on a pair of Zs and a pair of 
SUs. Sent himn carb bodies only just for rebushing throttle shafts and 
he dipped the Z floats for as they were fracturing from the new gas. 
He replated linkage to look like new. Shipping was not bad, price and 
service great - he makes the shafts for MOSS and rebuilds all kinds of 
British carbs and Lucas generators, starters, plus makes many parts. 
He advertises in many car magazines and been around 30-40 years.. You 
can GOOGLE for a website/address/phone..
Good luck,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

Thinking that sending them to a rebuild shop might be an option, I 
looked at
a Paltech (http://www.paltech1.com/) who are now selling carb rebuilds 
on
eBay. Has anyone had any experience with this vendor? Are there other 
ZS
carb rebuild vendors out that I should look at instead?

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Nov 11 19:28:04 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 02:28:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Wrench:  TR3A OD Drain Plug
In-Reply-To: <1077293301.2683421257992836322.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1093387975.2683821257992884947.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

The big, castellated plug.B  Found the socket on E-Bay, and thanks to Brian
Jones for the heads up!



Terry






----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 7:30:44 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [TR] Wrench: B TR3A OD Drain Plug

Are you talking about the small, square headed pipe plug, or the large,
flat brass plug which holds the filter in place on an A type?

I've always used a hammer and a suitable drift to remove and
install the large brass plugs, carefully applying the force to
the notches in the cap.

mjb.

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Nov 11 20:50:13 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 22:50:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 carb rebuild - replacing the jet, vendor   experience
In-Reply-To: <230711781.68088.1257983542481.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <230711781.68088.1257983542481.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <B83420E25712406FB07BCC414263E6A9@BobPC>

Brian................. Paltech is the choice of most side draft carb guys. 
In 6-Pack, he's the only choice.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: <thenicholls at verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 6:52 PM
To: <blanoway at shaw.ca>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 carb rebuild - replacing the jet, vendor  experience

> Brian,
>
> I think many members on the list will vote for Paltech.  For the price, 
> his
> work cannot be beat.  He is easy to work with, they look brand new when he 
> is
> done.  I highly recommend him.
>
> Craig
> 72 TR6
> Vienna, VA
>
> On Nov 11, 2009, Brian Lanoway <blanoway at shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> In disassembling the carbs on my 1973 TR6 (175CD-2SEV), I noticed that the
> orifice in both jets has been worn into an oval. Assuming that this is not
> good, Ive searched through several references (Bentley, Hayes, Buckeye) 
> and
> no one talks about replacing these jets. Is that some that a mere mortal
> can do in his own garage with normal tools  or should this be done by a
> professional shop instead?
>
> Thinking that sending them to a rebuild shop might be an option, I looked 
> at
> a Paltech (http://www.paltech1.com/) who are now selling carb rebuilds on
> eBay. Has anyone had any experience with this vendor? Are there other ZS
> carb rebuild vendors out that I should look at instead?
>
> Thanks so much in advance,
>
> Brian Lanoway
> 1973 TR6
> Winnipeg, Canada
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Nov 11 20:55:47 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 22:55:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Z carb rebuilders
In-Reply-To: <44FC5549.DA67.4C4E.AD19.2CAABC36803E@aol.com>
References: <44FC5549.DA67.4C4E.AD19.2CAABC36803E@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F7A69E242E9D4B66AA9407BAA6BC84CE@BobPC>

Joe lost me when I asked him what his rebuilding encompassed and his reply 
was................. "whatever I need to do". I went with Jeff Palya at 
Paltech who spent an hour on the phone talking about rebuilding carbs and 
TR6s.  Joe may do a great job but Jeff told me what I was paying for.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "carlsereda" <carlsereda at aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 9:05 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Z carb rebuilders

> Joe Curto Inc in New York did a fine job on a pair of Zs and a pair of
> SUs. Sent himn carb bodies only just for rebushing throttle shafts and
> he dipped the Z floats for as they were fracturing from the new gas.
> He replated linkage to look like new. Shipping was not bad, price and
> service great - he makes the shafts for MOSS and rebuilds all kinds of
> British carbs and Lucas generators, starters, plus makes many parts.
> He advertises in many car magazines and been around 30-40 years.. You
> can GOOGLE for a website/address/phone..
> Good luck,
> Carl
> '63 TR4 since '74
>
> Thinking that sending them to a rebuild shop might be an option, I
> looked at
> a Paltech (http://www.paltech1.com/) who are now selling carb rebuilds
> on
> eBay. Has anyone had any experience with this vendor? Are there other
> ZS
> carb rebuild vendors out that I should look at instead?
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr6parts at charter.net  Thu Nov 12 05:26:13 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 07:26:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Z carb rebuilders
References: <44FC5549.DA67.4C4E.AD19.2CAABC36803E@aol.com>
	<F7A69E242E9D4B66AA9407BAA6BC84CE@BobPC>
Message-ID: <6279FDB0287640B3AC1E336878C2BD96@Alan>

Gary Martin in Rapid City, SD is another rebuilder that has been around for 
years. he advertises in the 6-Pack magazine.
Theres also Dean Houston in Fl.
A 6-pack member
http://www.britishsportscarworks.com/about_bscw.htm

Among others.

Cheers,

Al



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "carlsereda" <carlsereda at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Z carb rebuilders


> Joe lost me when I asked him what his rebuilding encompassed and his reply 
> was................. "whatever I need to do". I went with Jeff Palya at 
> Paltech who spent an hour on the phone talking about rebuilding carbs and 
> TR6s.  Joe may do a great job but Jeff told me what I was paying for.
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "carlsereda" <carlsereda at aol.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 9:05 PM
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Z carb rebuilders
>
>> Joe Curto Inc in New York did a fine job on a pair of Zs and a pair of
>> SUs. Sent himn carb bodies only just for rebushing throttle shafts and
>> he dipped the Z floats for as they were fracturing from the new gas.
>> He replated linkage to look like new. Shipping was not bad, price and
>> service great - he makes the shafts for MOSS and rebuilds all kinds of
>> British carbs and Lucas generators, starters, plus makes many parts.
>> He advertises in many car magazines and been around 30-40 years.. You
>> can GOOGLE for a website/address/phone..
>> Good luck,
>> Carl
>> '63 TR4 since '74
>>
>> Thinking that sending them to a rebuild shop might be an option, I
>> looked at
>> a Paltech (http://www.paltech1.com/) who are now selling carb rebuilds
>> on
>> eBay. Has anyone had any experience with this vendor? Are there other
>> ZS
>> carb rebuild vendors out that I should look at instead?

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Nov 12 06:17:14 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 08:17:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Transporter news?
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30911120207u5d2ee52ds6e870cbd65c03b11@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a38798b30911120207u5d2ee52ds6e870cbd65c03b11@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC31B195FEFB5E-4278-F0E1@webmail-m041.sysops.aol.com>

 I guess I owe everyone an update on my TR8 mishap.  As you may recall, I lost
control of the TR8 on an icy highway in western Kansas and slid sideways into
the end of a guard rail.

The car arrived home on Oct 24.  A local transport company picked it up and
dropped it off for $500.  I incurred $300 storage thanks to the delay in
finding someone to pick it up.  Towing the car off of the highway and
transportation to Salina to rent a car one way to get home brought expenses to
about $1300.  We will see what is and is not covered.  The insurance adjuster
came by on Tuesday and is still working up an estimate for repair.  We haven't
started arguing about the car's value yet but I showed the NADA valuation to
the adjuster which is much like showing evidence to the court reporter.  It
isn't his call.

Results are still pending.

Just to put things in perspective, CIT went bankrupt.  I sold my bonds just
before but lost about $2500 in the deal.

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Jones <tr4zest at gmail.com>
To: Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Thu, Nov 12, 2009 4:07 am
Subject: Transporter news?









Dave,


Did you get the car home yet? Any news?


Brian

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 12 10:54:34 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 09:54:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Caliper Piston Removal
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30911111735x13d0ea2cvdf461b23950ad10e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8DE62593C81240948B6F4E707668BC5A@ricksoffice><a38798b30911111735y71ac9c38oe90e88d498d4469b@mail.gmail.com>
	<a38798b30911111735x13d0ea2cvdf461b23950ad10e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4AF428EA994A492A8482C972C80722D0@jdnet.deere.com>

Little early in the season for fluif wars, isn't it?
<G>

> I thought the non-issue about DOT 5 was about it having a 
> slightly lower boiling point than DOT 3 or 4, rather than a 
> reduced hydraulic capability.

Actually, the DOT 5 specification calls for a higher minimum boiling point
than either DOT 3 or 4.
Dry 3/4/5 = 205C/230C/260C
'Wet' 3/4/5 = 140C/155C/180C

But in use, the DOT 5 stays relatively dry; while DOT 3/4 will absorb
moisture and salt right through the brake lines, to give a boiling point
even lower than the 'wet' specification.
http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260/TR3driver/Brake%20Fluid/?action=vie
w&current=Browing2Table3.jpg

However DOT 5 is slightly more compressible, which does result in a slightly
softer pedal.  Worse, from a racer's point of view, it becomes more
compressible as it gets hot, so the pedal gets progressively softer during a
race.

-- Randall  

From dkspence at telus.net  Thu Nov 12 13:50:52 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:50:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] brake upgrade......tr-6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1258052401.13228.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1258052401.13228.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <945D4A1B-3A4F-4BBD-A1E5-244A24FEBE6C@telus.net>

Can somebody give me info on this mod please.  Or a reference to a  
web page.
   Thanks
  don

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Thu Nov 12 14:02:08 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:02:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Fwd: Caliper Piston Removal
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30911121218t14a6e00fx3d9326cf9104f756@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8DE62593C81240948B6F4E707668BC5A@ricksoffice>
	<a38798b30911111735y71ac9c38oe90e88d498d4469b@mail.gmail.com>
	<a38798b30911111735x13d0ea2cvdf461b23950ad10e@mail.gmail.com>
	<4AF428EA994A492A8482C972C80722D0@jdnet.deere.com>
	<a38798b30911121218t14a6e00fx3d9326cf9104f756@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30911121302t26204787k5eaa9efb9e8988b6@mail.gmail.com>

 That is interesting, Randall, and as Rick says, the compressability effect
is too small to notice - I didn't notice it (in fact because my swap
involved a full bleed through, my brake pedal got stiffer, not softer). I
can lock up all four wheels on my TR4...

There are some reports, apparently in error, of DOT 5 having a lower boiling
point. From the VTR maintenance section:

   - "DOT5 is slightly compressible (giving a very slightly soft pedal), and
   has a lower boiling point than DOT4. "

One complaint I heard against DOT 5 is its expense. Yes, the bottle price is
more (double?) but any economy quickly disappears when your DOT 4-filled
master cylinder fails and you find a large area of ruined paint under the
hood, as I found, nevermind that also as DOT 5 doesn't absorb water, it need
not be routinely replaced like DOT 3/4 *should* be, every 3 or so years.

Brian

  On Thu, Nov 12, 2009 at 12:54 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> Little early in the season for fluif wars, isn't it?
> <G>
>
> > I thought the non-issue about DOT 5 was about it having a
> > slightly lower boiling point than DOT 3 or 4, rather than a
> > reduced hydraulic capability.
>
> Actually, the DOT 5 specification calls for a higher minimum boiling point
> than either DOT 3 or 4.
> Dry 3/4/5 = 205C/230C/260C
> 'Wet' 3/4/5 = 140C/155C/180C
>
> But in use, the DOT 5 stays relatively dry; while DOT 3/4 will absorb
> moisture and salt right through the brake lines, to give a boiling point
> even lower than the 'wet' specification.
>
> http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260/TR3driver/Brake%20Fluid/?action=vie
> w&current=Browing2Table3.jpg
>
> However DOT 5 is slightly more compressible, which does result in a
> slightly
> softer pedal.  Worse, from a racer's point of view, it becomes more
> compressible as it gets hot, so the pedal gets progressively softer during
> a
> race.
>
> -- Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Nov 12 14:17:02 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 21:17:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Drivers on the Road
In-Reply-To: <4AF428EA994A492A8482C972C80722D0@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <1576062532.3015571258060622887.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

1.B  Have come to the conclusion that anyone who drives faster than I do,
...is a freakin' maniac.



2.B  But then, anyone who drives slower than I do, is a freakin' farmer...or a
little old man in a hat.



3.B  Have also come to the conclusion that the man who stands next to me at
the urinal in a public restroom wearing hi-magnification glasses, ...is NOT
the scariest restroom encounter.B  I reserve that euphemism for the man in the
raincoat with obviously poor fine motor control.B 



Those are Smith axioms one, two and three.



They're close to kicking my TR3A out of the parking garage, where I have a
favored assigned space, ...because of oil leaks.B  Have stopped driving for
the season.B 



4.B  Smith axiom number four:B  TR's are like urinal men in raincoats.B  Avoid
getting the puddles on your shoes.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hamsphire

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 12 15:34:33 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 14:34:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Fwd: Caliper Piston Removal
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30911121302t26204787k5eaa9efb9e8988b6@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8DE62593C81240948B6F4E707668BC5A@ricksoffice><a38798b30911111735y71ac9c38oe90e88d498d4469b@mail.gmail.com><a38798b30911111735x13d0ea2cvdf461b23950ad10e@mail.gmail.com><4AF428EA994A492A8482C972C80722D0@jdnet.deere.com><a38798b30911121218t14a6e00fx3d9326cf9104f756@mail.gmail.com>
	<a38798b30911121302t26204787k5eaa9efb9e8988b6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6FC2274097744D8ABBF8959BC583202A@jdnet.deere.com>

>  That is interesting, Randall, and as Rick says, the 
> compressability effect is too small to notice

Well, I have to say that I did notice it; but decided it wasn't significant
for my purposes.  You might like to read Nelson's article at
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm
where he gives a bunch of theoretical calculations, and backs them up with
his own observations.

Note however, that Nelson made a typo in his temperature chart, the minimum
dry boiling point for DOT 5 is 260C, not 230C as written there (the 500F is
correct, showing it was just a typo).

> I can lock 
> up all four wheels on my TR4...

Which of course is the absolute bare minimum standard, as far as I am
concerned.  I had no trouble locking all 4 (when I tried) either before or
after converting to DOT 5.  However, I did eventually convert to SS/Teflon
soft lines, because I like the firmer pedal (and the old lines were getting
old).  Don't have before and after measurements, but it seems to me that
they more than compensated for the very slight loss with DOT 5.

> From the VTR maintenance section:

Seems to be some mistake there, I've dropped the webmaster a note.  But the
'official' spec is at
http://tinyurl.com/yhwh7gq , read it for yourself.

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 12 15:55:25 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 14:55:25 -0800
Subject: [TR] brake upgrade......tr-6
In-Reply-To: <945D4A1B-3A4F-4BBD-A1E5-244A24FEBE6C@telus.net>
References: <mailman.4.1258052401.13228.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<945D4A1B-3A4F-4BBD-A1E5-244A24FEBE6C@telus.net>
Message-ID: <19BFA7D22C1F433E8A16016BED45E81A@jdnet.deere.com>

> Can somebody give me info on this mod please.

Which one?

http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=45150

-- Randall  

From tr6nut at verizon.net  Thu Nov 12 16:06:29 2009
From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:06:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] brake upgrade......tr-6
In-Reply-To: <945D4A1B-3A4F-4BBD-A1E5-244A24FEBE6C@telus.net>
References: <mailman.4.1258052401.13228.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<945D4A1B-3A4F-4BBD-A1E5-244A24FEBE6C@telus.net>
Message-ID: <4AFC94F5.6000903@verizon.net>

http://www.turbo-tr6.info/tr6_brake_install.htm


Don Spence wrote:
> Can somebody give me info on this mod please.  Or a reference to a web 
> page.
>   Thanks
>  don

From tr6nut at verizon.net  Thu Nov 12 16:55:57 2009
From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:55:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] brake upgrade......tr-6
In-Reply-To: <19BFA7D22C1F433E8A16016BED45E81A@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <mailman.4.1258052401.13228.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<945D4A1B-3A4F-4BBD-A1E5-244A24FEBE6C@telus.net>
	<19BFA7D22C1F433E8A16016BED45E81A@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <4AFCA08D.3090905@verizon.net>

Sweet son of Zeus, that's highway robbery for that!

Randall wrote:
>> Can somebody give me info on this mod please.
>>     
>
> Which one?
>
> http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=45150
>
> -- Randall  

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Nov 12 14:28:03 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:28:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] wax on wax off
References: <1251192496.6406911256070531940.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A6CF16F2EDFF4872AE7434AE1C65ADA3@fred8kwiskhcfu>

I just received my lastest sales book from "Calf. Car Cover.", they have 
"Zymol" listed for $685.00 and another brand for $$8361.00, yep that's the 
figure, must be some good wax.  FT
=========================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] wax on wax off


>A double application of Griot's Carnuba (he was bored while his relatives 
>were out shopping) was what caused my friend's Elise to be unable to hold 
>painter's tape. At all.  We had to put autocross numbers on the car with 
>duct tape, which came off without a mark.  I am not making this up.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
> 1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
>
> ----- "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 3:02:33 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
>> Subject: Re: [TR] wax on wax off
>>
>> knowing how personal a wax choice is, i'll just mention that i really
>> like
>> zymol
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tdskip at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 12 17:50:06 2009
From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:50:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR-man update - successfully resolved. Turned out to be a good
 experience
Message-ID: <415816.89070.qm@web55605.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

Hey guys - I wanted to give an update to close this out. Brad and I talked
live tonight, and worked everything out. We both got surprised by the
condition of the engine, and there was no/zero/zip/nada intent from Brad to do
anything other than to do the right thing and have a happy customer. As I
posted over at BCF there are two important take aways here;

1) Brad is a stand-up guy, and this was all a misunderstanding.

2) I need to get my butt off email and pick up the phone more, since my
reliance on email wasn't helping get to a resolution. My bad.

So we're good, in fact I'm going to ship off that A-type O/D I've been fooling
around with to Brad so he can rebuild it.
 
Thanks to everyone who sent a note along.
 

From banjonut at verizon.net  Fri Nov 13 08:04:33 2009
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 07:04:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] Hole question
Message-ID: <67B580209CFB40D1899901C3DFAA5DB3@HAMPC>

OK...here's one for the list:

Last night I was at the body shop where I'm having some restoration work 
done on my -3A, TS68164L.
The rear fenders are off, and I looked under the rear body, on the very 
bottom of the car, just inside (toward the centerline) from  the back of the 
rear fenderwell....and maybe two or three inches in front of the very back 
of the car.  I found a hole on each side of the car.....maybe 1/4"-3/8" or 
larger in diameter.  The holes don't seem to go anywhere except they 
disappear up into the bodywork, and they're in the wrong place to be the 
boot lid drain tubes (I think those come out to the side and there is no 
path for them to go straight down through the bodywork and come out on the 
bottom of the car).  I'm stumped.....I can't figure out what they are for. 
Are they drain tube holes from the spare tire area (although there are no 
holes in my spare tire area itself), or from the inside of the boot floor, 
or could they be some kind of body alignment jig holes from the factory?  I 
have no clue.  Does anybody know what these holes are for?  What am I 
missing?  If there's supposed to be something going in there, now is the 
time for me to install whatever is missing!

Maybe they're just air vent holes to keep the inside of the fender and 
bodywork from rusting in case water accumulates in there from rain or 
whatever?


Thanks,

Steve Ball
Lompoc CA
email: banjonut at verizon.net 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 13 09:08:17 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:08:17 +0000
Subject: [TR]  wax on wax off
In-Reply-To: <A6CF16F2EDFF4872AE7434AE1C65ADA3@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <1251192496.6406911256070531940.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<A6CF16F2EDFF4872AE7434AE1C65ADA3@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W454120E3B7407EEDAE4C93E5A80@phx.gbl>

>"Zymol" listed for $685.00 and another brand for $$8361.00, yep that's the
figure, must be some good wax.  FT

The second brand comes with a special applicator, the girl in the Tiger Beer
commercial.

Best regards,
Tom



> From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
> To: pethier at comcast.net; sumton at sbcglobal.net
> Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:28:03 -0500
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] wax on wax off
>
> I just received my lastest sales book from "Calf. Car Cover.", they have
> "Zymol" listed for $685.00 and another brand for $$8361.00, yep that's the
> figure, must be some good wax.  FT
>
=============================================================================
============================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pethier at comcast.net>
> To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 3:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] wax on wax off
>
>
> >A double application of Griot's Carnuba (he was bored while his relatives
> >were out shopping) was what caused my friend's Elise to be unable to hold
> >painter's tape. At all.  We had to put autocross numbers on the car with
> >duct tape, which came off without a mark.  I am not making this up.
> >
> > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
> > 1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> >
> > ----- "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> >
> >> From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> >> Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 3:02:33 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> >> Subject: Re: [TR] wax on wax off
> >>
> >> knowing how personal a wax choice is, i'll just mention that i really
> >> like
> >> zymol
> >> _______________________________________________
> >>
> >> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>
> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> >> http://www.vtr.org
> >>
> >>
> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> >>
> >>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> > http://www.vtr.org
> >
> >
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> >
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 13 11:35:41 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 10:35:41 -0800
Subject: [TR] Hole question
In-Reply-To: <67B580209CFB40D1899901C3DFAA5DB3@HAMPC>
References: <67B580209CFB40D1899901C3DFAA5DB3@HAMPC>
Message-ID: <A62121A9645A4E88ABA46D2C4DE6A09C@jdnet.deere.com>

> I found a hole on each side of the car.....maybe 
> 1/4"-3/8" or larger in diameter.  

I believe they were to allow the paint to drain, when the bodies were
'dipped' at the factory.  There are others in various locations.

Should be filled with a plastic plug, probably P/N 607517.

-- Randall  

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 13 15:53:39 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 14:53:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tr-6 brake master seal  grrrrrr
Message-ID: <7065.5103.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

anyone have suggestions or tips on installing the rubber seal on the primary plunger of the brake master cylinder?  I've ruined the second kit now trying to install the seal over the big round things on the plunger.  does one install over the end with the narrow ring? or the wider ring.  I used a screw driver to stretch the rubber over and am wondering if this acted like a knife and sorta cut the rubber.  I found it extremely difficult to use my thumbs.........so went to the screwdriver.  I might simply buy a new master cyllinder rather htan take a chance on ruining the third one.
any ideas that might help?

gary n

From markvaden at gmail.com  Fri Nov 13 17:03:39 2009
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:03:39 -0800
Subject: [TR] Videos and pictures
Message-ID: <285b8a860911131603r79b405d1m7453cd9e364d677f@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Everyone,

I finally updated our racing web page, and added some more videos, as
well as photos. Check it out:
http://www.britishheritagemotorsports.com/TriHard_Racing.html.

There are links across the top of the page for photos and videos.

-Mark

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 13 17:38:14 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:38:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] tr-6 brake master seal  grrrrrr
In-Reply-To: <7065.5103.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <7065.5103.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <11374EA8C5314BFF8618398FDA34190B@jdnet.deere.com>

Gary, you might find this article helpful:
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/MCPDWA/MC.htm

I find it helpful to wet the seal with clean brake fluid first.

I also ground all the sharp corners off of a small (cheap) screwdriver that
I use for tasks like this.

-- Randall  

From banjonut at verizon.net  Fri Nov 13 20:12:03 2009
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 19:12:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] Hole Question
Message-ID: <2AA4E56C8D5A4E22B8B7526E8FA19284@HAMPC>

Thanks to everyone who responded to the question about the hole under the
fender area on my '60 TR3A.  Randall came up with a P/N (607517), and Bill
Beech crossed it to a TRF part....a 5/8" plastic plug.  Randall thought it
might be a drain hole from when the body was dipped at the factory.

Thanks again to everyone...the list is an amazing resource!!

Steve Ball
Lompoc CA

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Fri Nov 13 21:46:34 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 20:46:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater Retrofit
In-Reply-To: <241856.60559.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <241856.60559.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AFE362A.10209@comcast.net>

Bill,

Would you be willing to share a little more about the retrofit of your
new heater? I finally gave up on trying to patch the leaks in my Smith's
heater core, and the $500 price tag for a new core is a bit much for my
limited budget.

The main thing that I am curious about is how you dealt with the heater
hoses. Do the connections to the core poke through the fire wall or did
you find a way to hook up the hoses under the dash like the original
heaters?

Thanks,

Mike


William Brewer wrote:
>      I've had my TR3A off the road for a month while I installed an
> aftermarket heater (which works great!).  I had to relocate the relay for the
> A-type overdrive to fit the heater. I moved it from the rear wall of the
> battery box to the drivers side of the battery box. No big deal. I didn't even
> have to disconnect the wires. Everything worked well before moving the
> solenoid except that sometimes the relay wouldn't work unless I jiggled a
> certain wire. I think that the relay had a weak contact inside. I fixed that
> with some electrical tape so the wire always had a little strain on the relay
> fitting.      Anyway, when backing out of the garage for a test drive, the car
> didn't want to roll backwards and at one point I had it in reverse and nothing
> happened when I revved the engine with the clutch out. My street is on a hill
> and when I got to the stop sign the car didn't roll backwards when in neutral
> as usual. The overdrive doesn't engage. The
>  other 4 gears work fine.     The not rolling backwards thing concerns me.    
> Also, the trans has been rattling when I accelerate in the gears.     I am
> thinking about starting with a new relay and testing the electrical.     Any
> ideas?     I think that HVDA conversions are the sane way to go.
>      Bill in Tehachapi     

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat Nov 14 09:56:42 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 10:56:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] wax on wax off
References: <1251192496.6406911256070531940.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<A6CF16F2EDFF4872AE7434AE1C65ADA3@fred8kwiskhcfu>
	<BAY110-W454120E3B7407EEDAE4C93E5A80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7770B9E907C84574815F6C036DBE8ADD@yourpd3mh0abgs>

"The second brand comes with a special applicator, the girl in the Tiger 
Beer commercial."

for how long?
Best,
Ray


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To: <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 13, 2009 10:08 AM
Subject: [TR] wax on wax off


> >"Zymol" listed for $685.00 and another brand for $$8361.00, yep that's 
> >the
> figure, must be some good wax.  FT
>
> The second brand comes with a special applicator, the girl in the Tiger 
> Beer
> commercial.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
>
>
>> From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>> To: pethier at comcast.net; sumton at sbcglobal.net
>> Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:28:03 -0500
>> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [TR] wax on wax off
>>
>> I just received my lastest sales book from "Calf. Car Cover.", they have
>> "Zymol" listed for $685.00 and another brand for $$8361.00, yep that's 
>> the
>> figure, must be some good wax.  FT
>>
> =============================================================================
> ============================
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <pethier at comcast.net>
>> To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
>> Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 3:28 PM
>> Subject: Re: [TR] wax on wax off
>>
>>
>> >A double application of Griot's Carnuba (he was bored while his 
>> >relatives
>> >were out shopping) was what caused my friend's Elise to be unable to 
>> >hold
>> >painter's tape. At all.  We had to put autocross numbers on the car with
>> >duct tape, which came off without a mark.  I am not making this up.
>> >
>> > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
>> > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
>> > 1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
>> > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>> > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
>> >
>> > ----- "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> >
>> >> From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
>> >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> >> Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 3:02:33 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada 
>> >> Central
>> >> Subject: Re: [TR] wax on wax off
>> >>
>> >> knowing how personal a wax choice is, i'll just mention that i really
>> >> like
>> >> zymol
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >>
>> >> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >>
>> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> >> http://www.vtr.org
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> http://www.team.net/archive
>> > _______________________________________________
>> >
>> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >
>> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> > http://www.vtr.org
>> >
>> >
>> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>> >
>> >
>> > http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From markvaden at gmail.com  Sat Nov 14 10:13:12 2009
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 09:13:12 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Videos and pictures
In-Reply-To: <1959608342.236425.1258160238648.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <1959608342.236425.1258160238648.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <285b8a860911140913g1d910570q27ad42200f594108@mail.gmail.com>

Oops added a period to the end of the line. Here is the link without the period:

http://www.britishheritagemotorsports.com/TriHard_Racing.html


---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:  <thenicholls at verizon.net>
Date: Fri, Nov 13, 2009 at 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Videos and pictures
To: markvaden at gmail.com


Might want to take the period off the end, it returns a 404 error with it on.

On Nov 13, 2009, Mark Vaden <markvaden at gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Everyone,

I finally updated our racing web page, and added some more videos, as
well as photos. Check it out:
http://www.britishheritagemotorsports.com/TriHard_Racing.html.

There are links across the top of the page for photos and videos.

-Mark
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Nov 14 11:47:06 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 10:47:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Side Mirrors
Message-ID: <983787.5881.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I was at T-phest in SLO and was admiring a outside rearview mirror on a
TR3. It looked like an early TR3 dash mount TR3 rear view mirror (kind of
exposed glass edges) but was mounted on the tennon plate on the driver's side
windscreen. It looked great and like it would still work with the side curtain
mounted. The guy said he bought it from a supplier in England. I've seen these
several times through the years, but have never found a source. Does anyone
know where to find these?     TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Nov 14 12:23:32 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 12:23:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] 13 x 5 Libre style wheels for Lotus, Spitfire, TR7
Message-ID: <4AFF03B4.4080806@bradakis.com>

A fellow on the vintage race list is offering some nice wheels, ebay item
number is 330377011919.

mjb.

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Sat Nov 14 13:04:16 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 15:04:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Side Mirrors
References: <983787.5881.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DFCEF9456DCB420F83C9C1197CE7A633@fred8kwiskhcfu>

holden at holden.co.uk page 206 & 133, several styles available 01 885 488 477
==================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 1:47 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Side Mirrors


>     I was at T-phest in SLO and was admiring a outside rearview mirror on 
> a
> TR3. It looked like an early TR3 dash mount TR3 rear view mirror (kind of
> exposed glass edges) but was mounted on the tennon plate on the driver's 
> side
> windscreen. It looked great and like it would still work with the side 
> curtain
> mounted. The guy said he bought it from a supplier in England. I've seen 
> these
> several times through the years, but have never found a source. Does 
> anyone
> know where to find these?     TIA,
>     Bill in Tehachapi
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Nov 14 18:21:23 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 17:21:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Aftermarket TR3 Heater Install
Message-ID: <560764.66483.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Several people have inquired about my TR3 aftermarket heater install, so
here it is.     I bought the heater
from http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12-volt-maradyne-cab-heater-12-500-btu.h
tml for $139.95.     To install, I had to shorten the tubes out the back. I
shortened them to be about even with the outside case. I also had to move my
OD relay from the behind the back of the battery box to the side to get
clearance. You have to reduce the 1/2" copper outlets to match the diameter of
the TR3 heater hoses. Use a 1/2" to 3/8" copper reducers (I got mine at
Lowe's) and either use a 3/8 copper pipe or a 1/2" by
 .014 brass tube like I
bought at a True Value hardware store. I put in 90 degree elbows immediately
behind the heater, then a short length of 1/2" copper pipe and then reduced
it down after the edge of the sides to allow access to the hoses. I made sheet
metal 90 degree brackets to bolt it all to the dash braces.     The thing
blows like a blast furnace and I love it. I had had it with monkeying around
with the original pathetic fog stirrer heater. BTW, HVDA has the same heater
in his TR3, if that tells you something.     I am still making fittings for
the defroster hoses. There are precut and blanked off holes on each side. I
have to reduce them to the defroster hose size.     Instead of soldering
everything, if I were to do it again I think that I would use marine epoxy
that you can buy at an ACE hardware or marine supply. I used it for high temp
fittings in a vegetable oil fuel system in my Mercedes and it never failed me.
Soldering close to the heater core and metal case is questionable and nerve
wracking.     Other things I like (besides being warm) are that with the
heater low like it is I can easily get
 behind the
 dash if I need to get to gauges or light bulbs and things. My car
has a black interior and the black heater just sort of blends in with the
carpet.     I had
 to mount it low, below the dash to clear the choke cable. I
could have mounted it high, above the cable, but then it would have been hard
to open the vents. It would have fit and been out of sight.     The original
rheostat works with the new heater.     Total cost of the conversion was
probably about $150. I reused the original heater hoses.     Bring on the
cold.
     Bill in Tehachapi

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Nov 14 19:05:33 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 21:05:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] vacuum brake bleeding sequence?
Message-ID: <D53ACEEBA0AC45FDBCBDF208B2FEFF61@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I can't get reliable help when I need to bleed my brakes, so, I bought an
inexpensive ($30) manual vacuum hand-squeeze bleeder on Ebay.  Portions of
it's instructions are in chineaze, but, it's worked thusfar!

It's instructions seem to be in a different wheel-order than many things I've
read in the past about brake bleeding.  It says to first bleed the wheel
closest to the MC; finishing with the wheel furtherest from the MC.  Maybe
this sequence has something to do with it 'pulling a vacuum.'  Is this right?

Another thing:  although the picture with this vacuum unit shows it using 2 or
more feet of clear tubing.  The one I ordeded substituted black tubing which
made me paranoid,  so I bought some extra clear tubing so I could 'see' any
air in the lines.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey                   60 Tr3

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sat Nov 14 19:35:47 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:35:47 -0800
Subject: [TR] Aftermarket TR3 Heater Install
In-Reply-To: <560764.66483.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <560764.66483.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AFF6903.4090403@comcast.net>

Bill,

Thanks for the detailed description. It sounds like a relatively low
cost way to retrofit a good heater.

Mike

William Brewer wrote:
>      Several people have inquired about my TR3 aftermarket heater install,
so here it is.     I bought the heater from
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12-volt-maradyne-cab-heater-12-500-btu.html
for $139.95.     To install, I had to shorten the tubes out the back. I
shortened them to be about even with the outside case. I also had to move my
OD relay from the behind the back of the battery box to the side to get
clearance. You have to reduce the 1/2" copper outlets to match the diameter of
the TR3 heater hoses. Use a 1/2" to 3/8" copper reducers (I got mine at
Lowe's) and either use a 3/8 copper pipe or a 1/2" by
>  .014 brass tube like I bought at a True Value hardware store. I put in 90
degree elbows immediately behind the heater, then a short length of 1/2"
copper pipe and then reduced
>  it down after the edge of the sides to allow access to the hoses. I made
sheet metal 90 degree brackets to bolt it all to the dash braces.     The
thing blows like a blast furnace and I love it. I had had it with monkeying
around with the original pathetic fog stirrer heater. BTW, HVDA has the same
heater in his TR3, if that tells you something.     I am still making fittings
for the defroster hoses. There are precut and blanked off holes on each side.
I have to reduce them to the defroster hose size.     Instead of soldering
everything, if I were to do it again I think that I would use marine epoxy
that you can buy at an ACE hardware or marine supply. I used it for high temp
fittings in a vegetable oil fuel system in my Mercedes and it never failed me.
Soldering close to the heater core and metal case is questionable and nerve
wracking.     Other things I like (besides being warm) are that with the
heater low like it is I can easily get
>  behind the
>  dash if I need to get to gauges or light bulbs and things. My car has a
black interior and the black heater just sort of blends in with the carpet.
I had
>  to mount it low, below the dash to clear the choke cable. I could have
mounted it high, above the cable, but then it would have been hard to open the
vents. It would have fit and been out of sight.     The original rheostat
works with the new heater.     Total cost of the conversion was probably about
$150. I reused the original heater hoses.     Bring on the cold.
>      Bill in Tehachapi

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Nov 14 21:00:42 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 21:00:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] vacuum brake bleeding sequence?
In-Reply-To: <D53ACEEBA0AC45FDBCBDF208B2FEFF61@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <D53ACEEBA0AC45FDBCBDF208B2FEFF61@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911142000g29ffdb6dlc18c23b06006f358@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/14/09, dorpaul <dorpaul at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> I can't get reliable help when I need to bleed my brakes, so, I bought an
> inexpensive ($30) manual vacuum hand-squeeze bleeder on Ebay.

The main problem I have had with that method is that air gets pulled
in around the threads of the loosened bleed screw -- so I would
continue to get some small bubbles even after the line was fully bled.

I think some use teflon on the bleed screw threads to stop that but I
wasn't too happy trying that so I went back to the pedal-pusher
method.

Geo

From rikrock at aol.com  Sun Nov 15 05:12:22 2009
From: rikrock at aol.com (rikrock at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 07:12:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] 3.45 : 1 Ring and Pinion For Sale
Message-ID: <8CC34040572364D-7038-22D1@webmail-d027.sysops.aol.com>

Fits the big TR (TR3-6).  In good used condition, from one of my TVR's.  $150
or trade for 4.1 gears?

Rich Rock
Pottstown, Pa

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Sun Nov 15 10:30:33 2009
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 10:30:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Maradyne heater for my TR3A
Message-ID: <D8AE22C9-6AC1-4FCA-AEC3-5A746D996EAA@cox.net>

Based in Bill Brewers advice  I also bought the Maradyne heater for my TR3A.
(Thanks Bill!!)
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12-volt-maradyne-cab-heater-12-500-btu.html

I currently have it installed in my TR3 & it is putting out a lot of heat!!!
It is so un-LBC!!!

Unlike Bill I decided to turn the heater core 180 degrees in the box, so that
I could attach the heater box directly to the back of the battery box and
still have all the heat output doors in the right orientation.  To do that I
took the front off the heater box(6 screws), pulled out the core cut the tubes
to size,  I then cut two holes in the front for the input & output lines. & I
then cut off the in & out tubes to size & sweated on elbows to form a U that
bends up over the top of the box.  I decided on over-the-top so as to maintain
the maximum space to be able to be able to get access to the under dash
wiring.

I used compression fittings to get tube size down from 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch,
the size of the heater hose. I also glued an old piece of cork gasket to the
back to insulate the box against rattles and to cover the hole from the
original tube exit holes.

I attached the heater to the inside of the back of the battery box using
heavy-duty pop rivets , I tried to get the bottom of the heater box even with
the bottom of the battery box.  I then connected the water hoses and then the
hot wire using my old heater fan control -- which still works great!

BTW, I found removing the tunnel carpet made it much easier to maneuver the
box under the dash and into position.

On the test drive I was surprised!!!  I have never had an LBC that had such
hot air!!!

I have a word doc with pictures if anyone is interested.  Just contact me off
line.

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 15 10:48:39 2009
From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 09:48:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Dim (or no) dash lights and hot rheostat
Message-ID: <48356.55568.qm@web51302.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all,

I find I need once again to dip into to the collective fountain of knowledge of the TR list.  

I have an early 69 TR6 on which I replaced the wooden dash some months ago.  I probably haven't driven it at night since. Yesterday I was out longer than planned and came home in the dark.  The dask lights came on with the headlights but quickly faded (minutes). I tried to adjust the lights with the dimmer switch and nothing.  I tried again a bit later and the knob was warm, it came off in my hand with some fumbling.  The allen key shaped bit of the rheostat that the knob attaches to was hot enough to burn my fingers.  

Is it possible to wire the switch incorrectly (wrong post for wrong wires) or is this indicating that I wired something else incorrectly?  

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Steve
CC25805LO

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov 15 13:31:50 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:31:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] Dim (or no) dash lights and hot rheostat
In-Reply-To: <48356.55568.qm@web51302.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20091115203150995.MRTD5263@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Is it possible to wire the switch incorrectly (wrong post for 
> wrong wires) or is this indicating that I wired something 
> else incorrectly?  

Most likely, IMO, indicates you have a short (or perhaps an excess load) in
the dash lights.  It's normal for the rheostat to get somewhat hot when the
lights are dimmed, but not as hot as you describe.  And wiring something
else in as a load on the rheostat (like maybe the marker lights or tail
lights) would make it get extra hot (as would a short).

I would move forward by shorting across the rheostat with either a fuse, or
something like a headlight bulb.  If the fuse blows, or the bulb comes on,
you know you have a short to ground somewhere in the dash light circuit.
(In my Stag, one of the wires in the center console had gotten pinched when
the console was installed, and the insulation eventually wore through.)

Randall

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 15 20:59:11 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:59:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Some TR4 & 6 parts for sale, Ohio
Message-ID: <BAY123-W244D600A8E6AB0E73F29CABAA50@phx.gbl>

I need to make some room to work in the shop. I am located about 30 minutes
south west of Cleveland Ohio. Don't want to mess with shipping, maybe somebody
in the area can use them. Two TR6 differentials, one TR4A differential with
drive shaft. $125 each. TR4 Engine without manifolds or carbs, $250.  Black
TR6 interior, panels, carpet, reupholstered seats out of a 1972 TR6. Seats are
like new the rest is good to fair. Would not put them in a show car but if you
are doing a refresh they would be ideal. Make me an offer on the interior.

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 17 11:36:04 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 12:36:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] restoration from hell
Message-ID: <30209DCFC5E545B6A9B7C4E740A990E4@ranteer.local>

some of you may remember the extreme pain i have gone through over the years.
its documented on my website.

anyway, good news!  we have a color, we got the tranny cover painted and we
all love it.  it's ice blue, fyi, taken from an actual paint sample on an
early sidescreen car

it looks like the car will finally get painted, and then we can put it
together.

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/index.html#update

From pboldtrix at juno.com  Wed Nov 18 09:53:20 2009
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:53:20 GMT
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <20091118.115320.4862.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com>

Assume the list is down?
____________________________________________________________
Doctorate Degrees Online
Boost your career with an online doctoral degree. Enroll today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=8XMUIHYA8bjFMXRXxYGPVQAAJz1zz45
8BJiLsnEJJ59KLgd5AAQAAAAFAAAAAIbp5T4AAAMlAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAyOQAAAAA=

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Nov 18 10:31:37 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 10:31:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <20091118.115320.4862.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20091118.115320.4862.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <9CC2330C6A2743639F4761D40CFD1A23@bboffice>

Appears to be working, not much traffic though.
B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Phil Bacon
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 9:53 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] (no subject)

Assume the list is down?
____________________________________________________________
Doctorate Degrees Online
Boost your career with an online doctoral degree. Enroll today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=8XMUIHYA8bjFMXRXxYGPVQAAJz1zz4
5
8BJiLsnEJJ59KLgd5AAQAAAAFAAAAAIbp5T4AAAMlAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAyOQAAAAA=
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Nov 18 11:45:32 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 11:45:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] List activity
Message-ID: <4B0440CC.7040800@bradakis.com>

The list is still working, just a little light on traffic the last
day or two.  I'm glad it isn't down, a person on this list just
made a nice donation to the cause of keeping Team.Net
on the air.  I'd hate to have him think his money was
totally wasted!

mjb.

From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Nov 18 12:00:13 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:00:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] List activity
In-Reply-To: <4B0440CC.7040800@bradakis.com>
References: <4B0440CC.7040800@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CC36987E0118DD-4724-8C4C@webmail-m066.sysops.aol.com>

 Who says it isn't wasted.? Still worth the entry fee, however.

Glad to help out.

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis &lt;mark at bradakis.com&gt;
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Nov 18, 2009 12:45 pm
Subject: [TR] List activity

   The list is still working, just a little light on traffic the last?
 day or two.  I'm glad it isn't down, a person on this list just?
 made a nice donation to the cause of keeping Team.Net?
 on the air.  I'd hate to have him think his money was?
 totally wasted!?
?
 mjb.?

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 18 17:06:20 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:06:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] boot/bonett hinges
Message-ID: <885115.86888.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Taking apart my tr-3 resulted in my throwing the 4 hinges together in a box.  Now i'm having trouble telling them apart.  I noticed in the Moss catalogue that the boot and bonett hinges have differant part numbers so i assume they're differant fitting.  I find they look the same as far as bold holes spacing.  I did find that inside one hinge had the numbers 4344 LH and 4348 RH.  Another hinge had numbers 4346 RH and 4350 LH with the remaining two hinges having no numbers anywhere.  I can't figure out why a hinge would have two numbers and another hinge have nothing at all.

I'm not sure how to tell the hinges apart, maybe just trial and error.  If anyone has experience or information it would help.

thanks

gary n.

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Nov 18 17:28:04 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:28:04 -0800
Subject: [TR] boot/bonett hinges
In-Reply-To: <885115.86888.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <885115.86888.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a06240801c72a40e31594@[192.168.2.2]>

They are different, the Drivers side hinge angles (a very small 
amount) to the right, the passenger to the left.

On the same subject, I am replacing the passenger side bonnet hinge, 
question ... must I remove the cubby box ... yes ... no ... maybe ...

Thanks...


>Taking apart my tr-3 resulted in my throwing the 4 hinges together 
>in a box.  Now i'm having trouble telling them apart.  I noticed in 
>the Moss catalogue that the boot and bonett hinges have differant 
>part numbers so i assume they're differant fitting.  I find they 
>look the same as far as bold holes spacing.  I did find that inside 
>one hinge had the numbers 4344 LH and 4348 RH.  Another hinge had 
>numbers 4346 RH and 4350 LH with the remaining two hinges having no 
>numbers anywhere.  I can't figure out why a hinge would have two 
>numbers and another hinge have nothing at all.
>
>I'm not sure how to tell the hinges apart, maybe just trial and 
>error.  If anyone has experience or information it would help.
>
>thanks
>
>gary n.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 18 17:47:55 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:47:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] boot/bonett hinges
In-Reply-To: <885115.86888.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <885115.86888.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <833494.42505.qm@web111603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Gary
my boot hinges have a different hole center than my bonnet
Frank
58 TR3
TS41366L




________________________________
From: Gary Nafziger
<nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, November 18, 2009
4:06:20 PM
Subject: [TR] boot/bonett hinges

Taking apart my tr-3 resulted in
my throwing the 4 hinges together in a box.  Now i'm having trouble telling
them apart.  I noticed in the Moss catalogue that the boot and bonett hinges
have differant part numbers so i assume they're differant fitting.  I find
they look the same as far as bold holes spacing.  I did find that inside one
hinge had the numbers 4344 LH and 4348 RH.  Another hinge had numbers 4346 RH
and 4350 LH with the remaining two hinges having no numbers anywhere.  I can't
figure out why a hinge would have two numbers and another hinge have nothing
at all.

I'm not sure how to tell the hinges apart, maybe just trial and
error.  If anyone has experience or information it would help.

thanks

gary
n.

_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 18 17:46:49 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:46:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] boot/bonett hinges
In-Reply-To: <a06240801c72a40e31594@[192.168.2.2]>
References: <885115.86888.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<a06240801c72a40e31594@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <680776.28649.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

i can still get to mine without removing it
Frank
To: Gary
Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, November
18, 2009 4:28:04 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] boot/bonett hinges

They are different,
the Drivers side hinge angles (a very small amount) to the right, the
passenger to the left.

On the same subject, I am replacing the passenger side
bonnet hinge, question ... must I remove the cubby box ... yes .... no ...
maybe ...

Thanks...


> Taking apart my tr-3 resulted in my throwing the 4
hinges together in a box.  Now i'm having trouble telling them apart.  I
noticed in the Moss catalogue that the boot and bonett hinges have differant
part numbers so i assume they're differant fitting.  I find they look the same
as far as bold holes spacing.  I did find that inside one hinge had the
numbers 4344 LH and 4348 RH.  Another hinge had numbers 4346 RH and 4350 LH
with the remaining two hinges having no numbers anywhere.  I can't figure out
why a hinge would have two numbers and another hinge have nothing at all.
> 
>
I'm not sure how to tell the hinges apart, maybe just trial and error.  If
anyone has experience or information it would help.
> 
> thanks
> 
> gary n.
-- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake
it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From auprichard at comcast.net  Wed Nov 18 19:04:40 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:04:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] boot/bonett hinges
In-Reply-To: <680776.28649.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <885115.86888.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com><a06240801c72a40e31594@[192.168.2.2]>
	<680776.28649.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7666C68FF365452C97B6DC4C14999C47@DCH6RFC1>

There's an old joke about the English gynecologist who re-papers the walls
of his living room - through his letter box.  But I guess it requires
reminding Americans that letter boxes are slots in the front door through
which the postman delivers mail.

So even though a career in gynecology was never on the cards for me, I can
say I removed the bonnet hinges of my TR3 without removing the cubby box.

Andrew Uprichard
1959 TR3A TS 51185LO
1962 TR3B TCF 191LO
Interested in a specific TR250 but (a)need to get the price down, and (B)
need to convince the wife..........

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 7:47 PM
To: Bill
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] boot/bonett hinges

i can still get to mine without removing it
Frank
To: Gary
Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, November
18, 2009 4:28:04 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] boot/bonett hinges

They are different,
the Drivers side hinge angles (a very small amount) to the right, the
passenger to the left.

On the same subject, I am replacing the passenger side
bonnet hinge, question ... must I remove the cubby box ... yes .... no ...
maybe ...

Thanks...


> Taking apart my tr-3 resulted in my throwing the 4
hinges together in a box.  Now i'm having trouble telling them apart.  I
noticed in the Moss catalogue that the boot and bonett hinges have differant
part numbers so i assume they're differant fitting.  I find they look the
same
as far as bold holes spacing.  I did find that inside one hinge had the
numbers 4344 LH and 4348 RH.  Another hinge had numbers 4346 RH and 4350 LH
with the remaining two hinges having no numbers anywhere.  I can't figure
out
why a hinge would have two numbers and another hinge have nothing at all.
> 
>
I'm not sure how to tell the hinges apart, maybe just trial and error.  If
anyone has experience or information it would help.
> 
> thanks
> 
> gary n.
-- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people
undertake
it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 18 19:23:06 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:23:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] boot/bonett hinges
In-Reply-To: <885115.86888.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20091119022308036.OGWP27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> I can't figure out why a hinge would have 
> two numbers 

Just a WAG, but I'd guess the drawings originally referenced two different
casting numbers, before some smart guy figured out that the same casting can
be used for front LH & rear RH; by only changing where that changeable stud
is drilled.  All of my hinges have had a dimple at the alternate location.

The ones with no numbers probably came from a different foundry/mold.

Randall

From boggiano at charter.net  Wed Nov 18 20:06:52 2009
From: boggiano at charter.net (Tom Boggiano)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:06:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil Pump priming
References: <20091111150336581.LPCX5263@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <E4D47DB563C840E88F0A8640E74C32FD@na01.crl.com>

I am at the point of my engine re-rebuild that I need to prime the oil pump 
and have a couple of questions
What do you all use to turn the oil pump with, A drill and what in the 
shaft? A long handled screw driver?
On the TR4 engine does it turn anti - clockwise?

If anyone has a gadget they used could you send me a picture?

Thanks
Tom 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 18 20:16:04 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:16:04 -0800
Subject: [TR] Oil Pump priming
In-Reply-To: <E4D47DB563C840E88F0A8640E74C32FD@na01.crl.com>
Message-ID: <20091119031604499.PVLR22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> What do you all use to turn the oil pump with, A drill and 
> what in the 
> shaft? A long handled screw driver?
> On the TR4 engine does it turn anti - clockwise?

Personally, I just use the starter.  Leave the plugs out and spin it with
the starter until the oil pressure comes up.  The assembly lube is plenty of
lubrication to get to that point.

Randall

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Nov 18 22:11:36 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:11:36 -0600
Subject: [TR] Oil Pump priming
In-Reply-To: <E4D47DB563C840E88F0A8640E74C32FD@na01.crl.com>
References: <20091111150336581.LPCX5263@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<E4D47DB563C840E88F0A8640E74C32FD@na01.crl.com>
Message-ID: <20091119051148.C9338187656@autox.team.net>

Tom, I have a section of steel rod that is roughly the same diameter 
as the distributor / oil pump shaft (used a bench grinder to take off 
the coating and get it down to be able to fit easily in the bushing), 
used the bench grinder to put a tang on the end of it.  I stick in a 
spare 1/2" drill, and run it in reverse on my TR-4 race motor.  I 
like to prime the oil cooler and the accusump before I really fire 
that baby up.  With the compression etc I run the bearings like that 
better.  I pull the distro drive gear, stick my contraption down in 
and crank away.  I'm always surprised that the oil pressure tries to 
push the shaft back up out of the hole and I have to push downward 
pretty firmly once the oil starts to flow.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 09:06 PM 11/18/2009, you wrote:
>I am at the point of my engine re-rebuild that I need to prime the 
>oil pump and have a couple of questions
>What do you all use to turn the oil pump with, A drill and what in 
>the shaft? A long handled screw driver?
>On the TR4 engine does it turn anti - clockwise?
>
>If anyone has a gadget they used could you send me a picture?
>
>Thanks
>Tom

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 19 12:20:32 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:20:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] boot/bonett hinges
In-Reply-To: <885115.86888.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <885115.86888.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3C37EF35DDAA475BB5551765783D1AFD@jdnet.deere.com>

Left and right are not too hard to tell : If you look at the space below the
hinge pin on each side, I think you'll see that one side is longer than the
other.  The long side always goes to the outside of the car.  Getting this
wrong is a sure way to break the hinges!

There is supposed to be a difference in stud location between boot & bonnet
hinges, but I don't recall for sure which one is which offhand.  Only one of
the smaller studs is different; if memory serves the small stud near the
hinge pin is farther away from the pin on the bonnet hinges.

Some of the boot hinges also have a round brass rivet sticking up that
serves as a stop; but I've seen lots of repro boot hinges without it, and
even some bonnet hinges with it.

-- Randall  

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Thu Nov 19 17:11:21 2009
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:11:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] pertronix PEI and coil type
Message-ID: <459ff76ddcff5cc2f35f326b436b8e1e@verizon.net>

List,
I hope this is a simple question with a simple answer.  Does it matter 
whether the coil has a ballast when converting to an electronic 
ignition?
Thanks,
Gary O

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 19 18:06:37 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:06:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] pertronix PEI and coil type
In-Reply-To: <459ff76ddcff5cc2f35f326b436b8e1e@verizon.net>
References: <459ff76ddcff5cc2f35f326b436b8e1e@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <632EB78A5EC14FA9AD1E4C276EC6697D@jdnet.deere.com>

> I hope this is a simple question with a simple answer.  Does 
> it matter whether the coil has a ballast when converting to 
> an electronic ignition?

For the Pertronix, the only caveat is that the module red wire needs to get
full 12v, not the reduced voltage from the ballast/coil terminal.  Otherwise
it doesn't matter as long as the type of coil matches whether a ballast is
present.

There are some other electronic ignitions with more complicated requirements
(for example, the Crane XR3000 wants a ballast-type coil without a ballast),
but the Pertronix is easy.

-- Randall  

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Thu Nov 19 18:12:42 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:12:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil Pump priming
In-Reply-To: <E4D47DB563C840E88F0A8640E74C32FD@na01.crl.com>
References: <20091111150336581.LPCX5263@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<E4D47DB563C840E88F0A8640E74C32FD@na01.crl.com>
Message-ID: <4B05ED0A.8070009@blacksburg.net>

On 11/18/2009 10:06 PM, Tom Boggiano wrote:
> I am at the point of my engine re-rebuild that I need to prime the oil 
> pump and have a couple of questions
> What do you all use to turn the oil pump with, A drill and what in the 
> shaft? A long handled screw driver?
> On the TR4 engine does it turn anti - clockwise?
Tom, I just used the distributor drive shaft.  Put #1 at TDC, pull the 
dist and distributor drive gear and turn the shaft CCW using a 1/2" 
drill; it'll take a minute to build up pressure.  When reinstalling the 
drive gear, orient the woodruff key directly opposite the block (if the 
block is "12 o'clock", the key should be at 6 o'clock) and the drive 
gear should just drop right into place, pointing to the #1 exhaust 
pushrod tube.  Very simple, very easy.  As a lark I created a YouTube 
video.  If you want it, I'll look up the number.

jim
>
> If anyone has a gadget they used could you send me a picture?
>
> Thanks
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>


-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Nov 19 18:42:36 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:42:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] boot/bonett hinges
References: <885115.86888.qm@web65303.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<3C37EF35DDAA475BB5551765783D1AFD@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <8805DE73FD114ADAA550B34359321672@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Another way of  guarding against hinge breaking  along with correct side is 
double check the angle on the "BOTTOM" of the complete hinge, it will have a 
angle for the curvature of the hood or deck lide, thus left on the right 
will not work   FT
===========================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] boot/bonett hinges


> Left and right are not too hard to tell : If you look at the space below 
> the
> hinge pin on each side, I think you'll see that one side is longer than 
> the
> other.  The long side always goes to the outside of the car.  Getting this
> wrong is a sure way to break the hinges!
>
> There is supposed to be a difference in stud location between boot & 
> bonnet
> hinges, but I don't recall for sure which one is which offhand.  Only one 
> of
> the smaller studs is different; if memory serves the small stud near the
> hinge pin is farther away from the pin on the bonnet hinges.
>
> Some of the boot hinges also have a round brass rivet sticking up that
> serves as a stop; but I've seen lots of repro boot hinges without it, and
> even some bonnet hinges with it.
>
> -- Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Nov 19 19:43:00 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:43:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
Message-ID: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>

Looking for some ideas. Our local British club has been in place for a couple
of decades. Same core people hang around. Some come, some go. Seems like as
time goes on more go than come though. Years ago our monthly meeting used to
be pretty good. Now they are pretty stagnant. Could be because we have been
following the same exact format for years. Maybe it time to try something
different. You folks that attend local car club meetings, what do other groups
do that makes the meetings something that folks want to attend and participate
in?

Thanks,
Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Thu Nov 19 20:01:26 2009
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:01:26 EST
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
Message-ID: <d2c.55e92427.38376086@aol.com>

Hi Marty;
 
To a certain extent, we have the same problem but also have several regular 
 successes a year that draws a good crowd.
 
In our experience, the better-attended ones are the multi-club events.  
We'll pair up with the local MG Club, the Jaguar Club, etc. If you just have a  
"British Car Club", then why not do a joint event with the Italian Car Club 
or  the very popular Icelandic Car Club (what?).
 
This still poses a problem for us. Generally, the local Triumph  club gets 
between 5 and 10 cars on a driving/touring event. The MG Club  often has 50 
cars. Now, in my mind 50 MG's is not an event, it's a traffic jam.  However, 
15 or 20 of a mix of cars might be nice, as long at the MG's can keep  up.
 
Finally, nothing seems to draw people out like a good party. We always have 
 the annual club winter bash at my place and it's one of the best attended. 
No  Triumph's show up, of course, for it's January in Ontario and it always 
seems to  happen on the coldest day of the year. However, the principle is 
there.
 
Sorry I can't offer more.
 
Tim
 
Tim Dyer,  Proprietor
Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road,  RR3
Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada 
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture 
Industry  professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and 
Christmas Tree  Farmers of Ontario

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Thu Nov 19 20:56:01 2009
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:56:01 -0800
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
References: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0F2C0571B3094118B1A01C4DE86821E5@Dell>

Meeting attendance always seems to be an issue. Triumph Travelers has over 
75 paid up memberships (single, family and life) and we get 25 to 30 people 
at most meetings. Many of our most active members from the past have moved 
out of the area. They stay active by participating in events, but driving 3 
hours each way for a 3 hour meeting is more than we can expect.  A few years 
ago when attendance was dwindling, we set out purposefully to improve that 
situation.  Our goals, as I recall:
1.) Make the meetings an event, not a chore.
2.) Have the meetings at as central a location as possible.
3.) Find a venue where people could have dinner if they wanted, didn't have 
to if they didn't want to
4.) Adequate safe parking for people that drove their Triumphs.
5.) There could be no overhead cost to the club. ie, Room rental

We eneded up finding a Carrow's that would give us the back room for free, 
no minimum food orders. Although not ideally located for everyone - never 
could be,  it is easy to get to and has a big parking lot.

People start arriving around 7:00 to socialize and order something to eat or 
drink if they want to. Meeting starts at 8:00 and is mostly about past and 
upcoming events. Issues and details of running the club are mostly handled 
by the exec. committee and mostly via emails or telephone. Keeps the 
meetings friendly, fun, non-contentious and mostly about socializing. There 
is a break for more socializing and for buying raffle tickets for a few 
bucks on a chance to win a bottle of wine, some beer, a few trinkets from 
harbour freight or something. Nothing valualble but it raises a few dollars 
and people seem to enjoy it.  Good and welfare and I've got a problem end 
the meeting and I'm genreally home by 10:00.

We set out to make the meetings something people looked forward to rather 
than felt obligated to attend and I think, for the most part, we succeded. 
Hope there are some ideas in here that you find helpful.

Bob



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 6:43 PM
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings


> Looking for some ideas. Our local British club has been in place for a 
> couple
> of decades. Same core people hang around. Some come, some go. Seems like 
> as
> time goes on more go than come though. Years ago our monthly meeting used 
> to
> be pretty good. Now they are pretty stagnant. Could be because we have 
> been
> following the same exact format for years. Maybe it time to try something
> different. You folks that attend local car club meetings, what do other 
> groups
> do that makes the meetings something that folks want to attend and 
> participate
> in?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Nov 19 21:21:38 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:21:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
References: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7B9AE052EFB54C7487811B9D338D3CC0@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Sign-in sheet available at 7:00P/M in parking, inside meeting begins at 7:30 
pm, each month a member gives a great presentation on his choice of his 
specialty, brakes, headlamps, electrical etc. etc, one year a member made a 
hugh steel rack with about 30/40 headlights mounted, he then proceeded to 
show how the head lights flews (?) work, direct light and why, another time 
a member 100% cut a fully assemblied block in half, showing water passages, 
fuel and oil, this block in still at every meeting, this 1st happened about 
20 years ago, a real beauty, every 3 months the meeting is just a car show 
in the parking lot, we just walk from car to car observering and asking, 
great program this one, twice yearly we have a parts sale right in the 
parking lot, we also have a parts table at all meetings during the year, at 
least least two (2) cruises are held each year, one being a "overnighter", 
women and children also participate in most all phases of club activities, 
"Model A ers" always consider the family first, Marty this is just a small 
sampleing of "A" meetings, more to come.  FT"
=============================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 9:43 PM
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings


> Looking for some ideas. Our local British club has been in place for a 
> couple
> of decades. Same core people hang around. Some come, some go. Seems like 
> as
> time goes on more go than come though. Years ago our monthly meeting used 
> to
> be pretty good. Now they are pretty stagnant. Could be because we have 
> been
> following the same exact format for years. Maybe it time to try something
> different. You folks that attend local car club meetings, what do other 
> groups
> do that makes the meetings something that folks want to attend and 
> participate
> in?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Nov 19 21:58:35 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:58:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <0F2C0571B3094118B1A01C4DE86821E5@Dell>
Message-ID: <941417854.4952521258693115158.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Kinderlehrer" <Kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: "Kinderlehrer" <Kinderlehrer at comcast.net>
> To: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>, "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 9:56:01 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] Car club meetings
>
> Meeting attendance always seems to be an issue. Triumph Travelers has
> over 
> 75 paid up memberships (single, family and life) and we get 25 to 30
> people 
> at most meetings. 

Sue and I want to thank you all again for the nice time you showed us when we drove around the East Bay with you out of Danville on our way to the VTR.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From banjonut at verizon.net  Thu Nov 19 22:00:17 2009
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:00:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] Re Boot / Bonnet Hinges
Message-ID: <6F6B654B04844E9290BA68785116C4FF@HAMPC>

List:

With regard to question about which hinge belongs where, I have a question.

It was stated by someone on the list "They are different, the drivers side 
hinge angles (a very small
amount) to the right, the passenger to the left."

Does the reference to "angling to the right and left" refer to the fact that 
if you sit them flat on a table, they are slightly rotated longitudinally 
(lengthwise)....as if they were rolled slightly (one rolled one way, and the 
other rolled the other way), or does it refer to some other angle 
difference?  Since my car's body is in the shop, along with the boot and 
bonnet lids, I can't try a check-fit to see if they are angled in some other 
manner...like maybe pointing to the left or right, but I can definitely see 
that the one rolls to the right and one to the left.  Is that what I should 
be looking for?  Are they supposed to each roll inboard toward the center of 
the car....or outboard toward the fenders?  Or am I completely off-track?

Thanks in advance,

Steve Ball
Lompoc Ca
'60 TR3A TS68164L

email: banjonut at verizon.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Nov 19 23:39:56 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:39:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Re Boot / Bonnet Hinges
In-Reply-To: <6F6B654B04844E9290BA68785116C4FF@HAMPC>
References: <6F6B654B04844E9290BA68785116C4FF@HAMPC>
Message-ID: <85976C4737484A94BE4394BB53821292@bboffice>

Steve,
You are right on track.  Each hinge want to roll to the outboard of the car,
sounds like you have a true pair.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Ball
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 10:00 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Re Boot / Bonnet Hinges

List:

With regard to question about which hinge belongs where, I have a question.

It was stated by someone on the list "They are different, the drivers side
hinge angles (a very small
amount) to the right, the passenger to the left."

Does the reference to "angling to the right and left" refer to the fact that
if you sit them flat on a table, they are slightly rotated longitudinally
(lengthwise)....as if they were rolled slightly (one rolled one way, and the
other rolled the other way), or does it refer to some other angle
difference?  Since my car's body is in the shop, along with the boot and
bonnet lids, I can't try a check-fit to see if they are angled in some other
manner...like maybe pointing to the left or right, but I can definitely see
that the one rolls to the right and one to the left.  Is that what I should
be looking for?  Are they supposed to each roll inboard toward the center of
the car....or outboard toward the fenders?  Or am I completely off-track?

Thanks in advance,

Steve Ball
Lompoc Ca
'60 TR3A TS68164L

email: banjonut at verizon.net
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Thu Nov 19 23:48:48 2009
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:48:48 +1300
Subject: [TR] Oil pump priming
Message-ID: <4E7178E5EEA9444B98CEDA7E93A1A445@DRESANPC>

Hi All....
    Following the oil pump priming sagas at the moment. I entirely agree with
the guy who said that all that was necessary was to remove the spark plugs,
and wind the engine over with the starter motor untill there was a good
reading on the guage. Easy!
Cheers....Trev. Hardy

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 19 23:49:14 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:49:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] Re Boot / Bonnet Hinges
In-Reply-To: <6F6B654B04844E9290BA68785116C4FF@HAMPC>
Message-ID: <20091120064914163.EUBT27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> I can definitely see 
> that the one rolls to the right and one to the left.  Is that 
> what I should be looking for?

Yup, that's it.

>  Are they supposed to each roll inboard 
> toward the center of 
> the car....or outboard toward the fenders?  

For me anyway, the clearest way to see this is to consider that the hinge
pins must be in line with each other; but the car body curves slightly from
side to side.

Randall

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Fri Nov 20 00:04:02 2009
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:04:02 +1300
Subject: [TR] Meetings...
Message-ID: <86E5572BE2854695BC67F0F723B09433@DRESANPC>

Hi All...
Have been a member of the Manawatu branch of the NZ Vintage Car Club for
years. Our Committee organises a guest speaker each month, not necessarily of
the motoring fraternity, either male or female, who speaka for 15-20
minutes,Prior to the guests  talk we have a general talk about upcoming branch
activities, followed by the guest speaker then a coffee/tea break.
  Obviously not all speakers appeal to all members.....their loss. Sometime if
we are stuck for a speaker, we'll show a video or movie, or something of
general interest. Hope this helps...Trev.

From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Nov 20 06:06:00 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:06:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC37F9578F3DA3-5440-13B9C@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>

 Sometimes a good, ole rivalry works wonders.  Last Spring our club president
challenged the MG club to turn out more cars to the annual Easter car show
(hosted by the Horseless Carriage Club).  On the surface this sounds like a
fools errand.  The MG club Roster is MUCH bigger than ours.  But, the prospect
of a come from behind victory pulled out cars we haven't seen for years and we
won by a wide margin.  What was at stake? bragging rights.  Nothing more.  But
sometimes that is enough.

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Nov 19, 2009 8:43 pm
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings


Looking for some ideas. Our local British club has been in place for a couple
of decades. Same core people hang around. Some come, some go. Seems like as
time goes on more go than come though. Years ago our monthly meeting used to
be pretty good. Now they are pretty stagnant. Could be because we have been
following the same exact format for years. Maybe it time to try something
different. You folks that attend local car club meetings, what do other
groups
do that makes the meetings something that folks want to attend and
participate
in?

Thanks,
Marty

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri Nov 20 06:39:25 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:39:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Re Boot / Bonnet Hinges
References: <6F6B654B04844E9290BA68785116C4FF@HAMPC>
Message-ID: <0014309014814DC9AC899077A9FE6DCE@DCS78M81>

Hey Steve,
They roll outward toward the fenders. That way when the boot is opened they 
don't bind.
Hope this helps. Working on the New 3 today, drove her for the first time 
last week, runs like a charm..I can't wait to be over 50% Triumph driving...
Tom
60 TR3A so close I can taste it
61 TR3A doing great
62 TR4 getting closer to starting the rebuild
73 Stag doing great
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Ball" <banjonut at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2009 12:00 AM
Subject: [TR] Re Boot / Bonnet Hinges


> List:
>
> With regard to question about which hinge belongs where, I have a 
> question.
>
> It was stated by someone on the list "They are different, the drivers side 
> hinge angles (a very small
> amount) to the right, the passenger to the left."
>
> Does the reference to "angling to the right and left" refer to the fact 
> that if you sit them flat on a table, they are slightly rotated 
> longitudinally (lengthwise)....as if they were rolled slightly (one rolled 
> one way, and the other rolled the other way), or does it refer to some 
> other angle difference?  Since my car's body is in the shop, along with 
> the boot and bonnet lids, I can't try a check-fit to see if they are 
> angled in some other manner...like maybe pointing to the left or right, 
> but I can definitely see that the one rolls to the right and one to the 
> left.  Is that what I should be looking for?  Are they supposed to each 
> roll inboard toward the center of the car....or outboard toward the 
> fenders?  Or am I completely off-track?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Steve Ball
> Lompoc Ca
> '60 TR3A TS68164L

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Nov 20 06:50:42 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:50:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A50B3AF665F0465388C3782C68AC6C1F@BobPC>

Marty,
I'll approach this from the other end i.e. Why I've never joined the local 
club............. I even had a few chat with the Membership Director and the 
Treasurer........two really nice people who acknowledge my concerns but 
change is slow in coming.

Like Letterman, here's my top 10 (-4) list: 1. a die hard cliquey core group 
of members 2. There's no attempt to actively recruit members at their annual 
show. What better time for active members to approach show attendees and do 
some recruiting but.....see reason #1  3.  we're a very small state yet 
meetings are help in the same place all the time rather then moving around 
the state to make it easier for people. 4. Driving events are few and far 
between.... I see only 2 on the 2009 calendar. 5. Every club should have an 
up to date dynamic web site and use email to communicate to members and 
potential members. The local one has gotten much better but it's still needs 
work e.g. the Hot News link is for an event from a month ago. 6. The 
calendar shows one Tech session in 2009......... They actually asked me to 
attend a session last year to show them my TBI conversion and only about 4 
people showed up and no one was really interested in the upgrade.

On the plus side, the club does have a good relationship with the MG Club 
and they do join projects/events.

So my advice would be to actively recruit people at shows, be open and 
friendly to newbie's regardless of car condition, communicate via web and 
email to members and non-members (show attendees), move meetings and driving 
events around so people can easily attend a couple of times a year, have a 
"tool" collection available to loan out along with expertise on how to use 
them.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 9:43 PM
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings

> Looking for some ideas. Our local British club has been in place for a 
> couple
> of decades. Same core people hang around. Some come, some go. Seems like 
> as
> time goes on more go than come though. Years ago our monthly meeting used 
> to
> be pretty good. Now they are pretty stagnant. Could be because we have 
> been
> following the same exact format for years. Maybe it time to try something
> different. You folks that attend local car club meetings, what do other 
> groups
> do that makes the meetings something that folks want to attend and 
> participate
> in?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Nov 20 07:56:38 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:56:38 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Measurements - TR3
Message-ID: <2103892505.90303.1258728998913.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net>

/GvaojE: Permission denied

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Nov 20 08:13:57 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:13:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Oil pump priming
In-Reply-To: <4E7178E5EEA9444B98CEDA7E93A1A445@DRESANPC>
Message-ID: <1485915233.5034071258730037069.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "T S Hardy" <t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz> wrote:

> Hi All....
>     Following the oil pump priming sagas at the moment. I entirely
> agree with
> the guy who said that all that was necessary was to remove the spark
> plugs,

Take the opportunity to shoot a little oil into the cylinders.

> and wind the engine over with the starter motor untill there was a
> good
> reading on the guage. Easy!
> Cheers....Trev. Hardy

This proceedure has always worked for me with Triumph engines.  

With the Renault engine in my Lotus Europa, a more direct route was sometimes required when the pump lost prime.  Spin off the oil filter.  There is an off-center hole in the plate where oil is supposed to come out into the filter from the pump.  Just take a Plews oiler full of motor oil and shoot oil into this hole until it won't take any more.  Replace filter and crank the engine on the starter motor as above.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 20 08:38:17 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 07:38:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] Oil pump priming
In-Reply-To: <1485915233.5034071258730037069.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091120153817560.NLAY27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> With the Renault engine in my Lotus Europa, a more direct 
> route was sometimes required when the pump lost prime.  

I should have mentioned, the TRactor motor is somewhat unusual in this
regard : It's oil pump is submerged in the oil, so priming the pump is not
an issue.  It's more of a problem on engines like Phil's Europa, where the
pump is above the level of the oil.  Another trick with those engines is to
pack the pump with lightweight grease (or Vaseline); but none of that is
necessary with the TR2-4 lump.

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 20 09:12:22 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:12:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W45E1ED267D2ACE8A96483EE5A10@phx.gbl>

Free shots of Tequila, a stripper, and a pound of bud.

Best regards,

Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
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From guzziot at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 20 09:48:44 2009
From: guzziot at hotmail.com (Russell Barr)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:48:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W45E1ED267D2ACE8A96483EE5A10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>,
	<BAY110-W45E1ED267D2ACE8A96483EE5A10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU144-W3356C971877E1D1A30ADB0AFA10@phx.gbl>

That might make for a pretty long meeting

--

Russell

> From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
> To: trmarty at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:12:22 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] Car club meetings
>
> Free shots of Tequila, a stripper, and a pound of bud.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Tom

_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_M
FESRP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Nov 20 09:56:47 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 11:56:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <A50B3AF665F0465388C3782C68AC6C1F@BobPC>
References: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
	<A50B3AF665F0465388C3782C68AC6C1F@BobPC>
Message-ID: <20091120115647.CXN89250@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Bob Danielson wrote:
> 1. a die hard cliquey core group of members

I was once member of a regional Triumph club.  I participated whenever time permitted, but as there wasn't much of it I let my membership lapse.  Then I attended a Triumph-focused meet at a local auto museum and considered re-joining.  It happened that one reasonably frequent member of this very TR email list was an active club member, perhaps a club officer, and present at the meet.  So to meet club members and to attach a face to a TR email list member Sharon and I went up to him and introduced outselves.  His response was to look at me with a bored expression and say "So what?"  Or perhaps it was just "So?"  Needless to say, we never went back.

Those of you familiar with the part of world I live in may recognize some of the details.  That person's name still shows up here occasionally and I have been told he is actually a nice guy.
--
Jim Muller
'70 GT6+
'80 Spitfire 150

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 20 09:58:45 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 09:58:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W45E1ED267D2ACE8A96483EE5A10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
	<BAY110-W45E1ED267D2ACE8A96483EE5A10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911200858m24e84528lb366785f524c71bd@mail.gmail.com>

Our local all-marque club (Tucson British Car Register) is very
active, typically 3 or 4 driving events each month, an annual 3-day
event, 4 or 5 coffee gatherings every month and tech sessions and lift
days as the mood strikes.  The meetings are deadly dull but no one
really minds so long as the rest of the activities keep coming.

We tried speakers and members' presentations but soon lapsed back into
the basic club business -- we seem to have short attention spans if we
are not in the driver's seat or within sight of our car.

Events include:

Breakfast Run on the 2nd Saturday -- about an hour drive to a cheap
greasy breakfast.  Usually about 30+ people, lots of wives attend.

Lunch Drive on 4th Saturday -- also an hour or so, also 30+ people
(though not the exact same crowd as breakfast) and most with wives
along.

Bonus Breakfast Run -- do this every time a month has 5 Saturdays.

BritCar Cafe -- meet every Tuesday at a Starbucks, 7:30 to 10:00 or
so.  Get about 20 guys, some stop in on their way to work, others are
there for the duration.  Wives only attend once and realize this is
the guys' time.

Mad Dogs and Englishmen -- 100 miles in 100 degree heat.  For some
reason, can only get people to do this once a year.  Wives usually opt
to meet us at the end for gelato.

December Mystery Run -- 100 mile cruise to breakfast, route and
destination withheld until the start.  Typically on the morning of the
day of the evening Holiday Party.

Tech Sessions -- occur when someone is tackling an interesting or
unfamiliar task.  Many show up, some do work, others watch and eat
donuts. 2 or 3 per year.

Lift Days -- from time to time, always have one prior to a major
long-distance event.  Members can do minor tasks under the car or just
check things prior to a big drive.  One rule is that at the end of the
day all non-runners get pushed to the curb (hasn't happened yet).  3
or 4 per year.

Wednesday Drive -- a new event begun this month.  Longer drive (about
2 hours) to lunch somewhere in southern AZ.  Should be great for
retirees and those members who jobs have them working on Saturday.

Roundup (Feb) -- our annual 3-day event, draws in cars from CA and NM.

Club drives to participate in out-of-town events: BEAT (Phx-Flag),
Rendezvous (Albu club) and the Las Cruces Brit Car days.

Roadrunner (Oct) -- non-club event but mostly Tucson club members on a
1000 mile 3-day loop for pre-1980 Brit cars.

We go out of our way to welcome newcomers as they are the life-blood
of any club.

If you are visiting Tucson let me know.  If we don't already have
something scheduled I will try to arrange an event to coincide with
your visit.

Geo

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Nov 20 10:27:46 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 10:27:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0911200858m24e84528lb366785f524c71bd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl><BAY110-W45E1ED267D2ACE8A96483EE5A10@phx.gbl>
	<7bb181af0911200858m24e84528lb366785f524c71bd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E90943B503984C66A7B5AAE94C3D936D@joepentiumnew>

Hi George,
You might get more members (or regain some former ones) if you would get rid
of the Name of your newsletter in favor of one that is margue neutral).
"The Desert Octagon" speaks volumes about the focus of your club.  :)

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2009 9:59 AM
To: TR List
Subject: Re: [TR] Car club meetings

Our local all-marque club (Tucson British Car Register) is very
active, typically 3 or 4 driving events each month, an annual 3-day
event, 4 or 5 coffee gatherings every month and tech sessions and lift
days as the mood strikes.  The meetings are deadly dull but no one
really minds so long as the rest of the activities keep coming.

We tried speakers and members' presentations but soon lapsed back into
the basic club business -- we seem to have short attention spans if we
are not in the driver's seat or within sight of our car.

Events include:

Breakfast Run on the 2nd Saturday -- about an hour drive to a cheap
greasy breakfast.  Usually about 30+ people, lots of wives attend.

Lunch Drive on 4th Saturday -- also an hour or so, also 30+ people
(though not the exact same crowd as breakfast) and most with wives
along.

Bonus Breakfast Run -- do this every time a month has 5 Saturdays.

BritCar Cafe -- meet every Tuesday at a Starbucks, 7:30 to 10:00 or
so.  Get about 20 guys, some stop in on their way to work, others are
there for the duration.  Wives only attend once and realize this is
the guys' time.

Mad Dogs and Englishmen -- 100 miles in 100 degree heat.  For some
reason, can only get people to do this once a year.  Wives usually opt
to meet us at the end for gelato.

December Mystery Run -- 100 mile cruise to breakfast, route and
destination withheld until the start.  Typically on the morning of the
day of the evening Holiday Party.

Tech Sessions -- occur when someone is tackling an interesting or
unfamiliar task.  Many show up, some do work, others watch and eat
donuts. 2 or 3 per year.

Lift Days -- from time to time, always have one prior to a major
long-distance event.  Members can do minor tasks under the car or just
check things prior to a big drive.  One rule is that at the end of the
day all non-runners get pushed to the curb (hasn't happened yet).  3
or 4 per year.

Wednesday Drive -- a new event begun this month.  Longer drive (about
2 hours) to lunch somewhere in southern AZ.  Should be great for
retirees and those members who jobs have them working on Saturday.

Roundup (Feb) -- our annual 3-day event, draws in cars from CA and NM.

Club drives to participate in out-of-town events: BEAT (Phx-Flag),
Rendezvous (Albu club) and the Las Cruces Brit Car days.

Roadrunner (Oct) -- non-club event but mostly Tucson club members on a
1000 mile 3-day loop for pre-1980 Brit cars.

We go out of our way to welcome newcomers as they are the life-blood
of any club.

If you are visiting Tucson let me know.  If we don't already have
something scheduled I will try to arrange an event to coincide with
your visit.

Geo
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From banjonut at verizon.net  Fri Nov 20 10:35:35 2009
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 09:35:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] boot/bonnet hinges
Message-ID: <9161109A9B074616BBDF5135EE34295A@HAMPC>

Thanks to all who replied about the boot and bonnet hinges!  I appreciate all
of your help, and again I can only wonder how I would ever have EVER gotten as
far as I have on this restoration without all the help from the list!

I hope everyone has a great weekend of TR driving!  I'm planning to get the
rear suspension back in my -3 this weekend (with a little luck). so I'll be
thinking about all of you, driving your TRs.    8 -)

Steve

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Nov 20 10:45:39 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 11:45:39 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Measurements - TR3
Message-ID: <18377119.16747.1258739139150.JavaMail.root@vms064.mailsrvcs.net>

My apologies - the Rich formatting was automatic and didn't realize it.

Thanks Randall.....



Nov 20, 2009 02:56:38 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

Anyone have access to measure the hood and trunk lids for a TR3?  (outside dimensions at widest points).  Also the 'height'.
 
I am at work and need the info this afternoon.
 
Thanks
Carl

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 20 11:50:40 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:50:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Measurements - TR3
In-Reply-To: <18377119.16747.1258739139150.JavaMail.root@vms064.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <18377119.16747.1258739139150.JavaMail.root@vms064.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W51CAD8D8CEB4235BE6D6D8E1A10@phx.gbl>

I wonder what that was...



I will have to watch that as "Rich" formatting is default to everything I do.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!





> Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 11:45:39 -0600
> From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Fwd: Measurements - TR3
>
> My apologies - the Rich formatting was automatic and didn't realize it.
>
> Thanks Randall.....
>
>
>
> Nov 20, 2009 02:56:38 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:
>
> Anyone have access to measure the hood and trunk lids for a TR3? (outside
dimensions at widest points). Also the 'height'.
>
> I am at work and need the info this afternoon.
>
> Thanks
> Carl
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Fri Nov 20 13:42:02 2009
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TTA)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:42:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B06FF1A.6030508@triumphstagclub.org>

Hi Marty,

Feeling like your meetings are a bit empty when you go home?  Newcomers 
thinking your group is a substitute for a codger gathering?
Talks are fine, swapping stories about LBC's are fine, driving through 
your area for a lunch or museum outing or Pub / wine tasting is fine, 
having a chili cook off is fine, but they are all kind of self serving 
and in the end, seeming somewhat unrewarding when it is over, aren't they? 
And the Chili cook off just contributes to global warming from the extra 
methane produced, not to mention the added load on the community septic.

Would it feel better as a club to say after one of these events that 
something was actually accomplished for the good of others and you all 
had a blast planning and doing it, other than testing the proper torque 
on a 5/16" nut or pointing another enthusiast to the right page in the 
Repair Manual??  I'm not saying to eliminate those activities because 
they are extremely useful and enjoyable most of the time, just 
supplement them.

How about adding the subject of merging one or many of your LBC 
activities with some charitable support event?  This focuses the club on 
a task, gives the members something to plan - organize and look forward 
to,  establishes a goal that benefits more than just the basic club 
house paint job, and usually when it is all over leaves your 
organization with a sense of accomplishment.  Bring in a local or 
national organization or charity director and have them talk about what 
they do, then organize or assist with a fund raiser incorporating 
sponsors, drives or activities with your LBC's.

For example, there is the "America's British Reliability Run" that 
benefits children's charities.  Why not have your club plan, organize 
and conduct a drive to correspond with this event in say, competition 
with other LBC's to see which club or club representative entrant can 
raise the most $$ for their respective charity??  I would bet that the 
organizer of ABRR would gladly track which clubs raise what, and might 
even locate a prize sponsor for the most innovative contributors.

Over 45 clubs participated in the TTA 2009 Charity Drive and they all 
had great fun while organizing their coordination and hand offs with the 
other clubs.  To those clubs, how was the experience??  Did you feel the 
club accomplished something good?  Worth doing again with the clubs on 
either side of you?  How about with other LBC clubs in your area?  I 
know there are a lot of clubs and potential sponsors that sat back and 
wondered what happened, thinking they probably should have, or grumbled 
because the did not ...

Maybe hold a tech tuneup session for LBC's at a local service garage or 
merchant who will donate proceeds for that day, a tune for storage event 
where visits are made to LBC owners to help get their cars ready for 
winter or tuned for cooler months running on nice days in the south for 
a donation to charity,  the ideas are endless, be creative..

The LBC clubs in the UK do this stuff as regular activities in their 
LBC's  and it is not always in sunny and dry weather.

Why can't we - all?

I hope this ignites a few sparks in the Lucas lamps for ideas.

Cheers!

Glenn A. Merrell
TTA North American Drive Coordinator 2009
Lafayette, Colorado  80026-1811  USA
www.triumphtransamerica.org
Skype,Twitter,FaceBook: StagByTriumph



marty sukey wrote:
> Looking for some ideas. Our local British club has been in place for a couple
> of decades. Same core people hang around. Some come, some go. Seems like as
> time goes on more go than come though. Years ago our monthly meeting used to
> be pretty good. Now they are pretty stagnant. Could be because we have been
> following the same exact format for years. Maybe it time to try something
> different. You folks that attend local car club meetings, what do other groups
> do that makes the meetings something that folks want to attend and participate
> in?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Fri Nov 20 13:44:52 2009
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:44:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Measurements - TR3
Message-ID: <559893.30237.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

11/19/09
Carl
 
Here are measurements from TS6927L:
 
Hood: Front @ latch=46-1/8"
         Rear @ Cowl=47-1/4
         Front height @ Center line* = 3"
         Rear height @ Center Line* = 8-1/2"
 
Trunk: Front @ key=44-1/8"
          Rear @ filler=47-1/8
         Front height @ (key) Center line* = 3-1/8
         Rear height @ (filler) Center line* = 4"
 
* denotes panel sitting on a level floor and measurements taken on a front to
back lateral line
 
Hope this is what you were looking for.
 
Regards,
Dan Cronin

--- On Fri, 11/20/09, cfmtr3a at verizon.net <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:


From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Measurements - TR3
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, November 20, 2009, 12:45 PM


My apologies - the Rich formatting was automatic and didn't realize it.

Thanks Randall.....



Nov 20, 2009 02:56:38 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:

Anyone have access to measure the hood and trunk lids for a TR3?  (outside
dimensions at widest points).  Also the 'height'.

I am at work and need the info this afternoon.

Thanks
Carl
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From Bob at texmog.com  Fri Nov 20 14:25:31 2009
From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:25:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <94C346E7510E4EBBAAA8C2AF7F560C8B@CARROOM>

Our local Morgan club has a similar problem in the late seventies, few
members showed up each month, things were pretty stagnant.  Two things
seemed to change and the club became vibrant and  active. First the monthly
meeting was changed from a revolving venue to one particular informal
restaurant which gave us a meeting room. The monthly meeting was also
changed to the same time each month ( first Thursday) so members always know
when and where the meeting are without having to refer to bulletins.
The second was the club started making long weekend trips to tourist areas.
This expanded to some week to two week cross country trips. This allowed the
members to really get to know each other as more than someone who just
shares ownership of the same type of car.
Today, while technically a club, it is really a close knit group of friends.
In the past year we had six cars travel from Texas to Watkins Glen NY, had a
large group travel to Mid Texas for a meet and a large turnout for a camping
weekend.

I think the answer is to stop thinking in terms of " a 'Club' and start
thinking in terms of 'Friends'.

Another thing that works is to insure that at least one member of the
current group ' adopts any new member, staying in contact with them and
insuring they are not left alone at meeting or events. Often new people are
bashful and old timers are too busy enjoying themselves to make the new
member feel welcomed.

Lastly, remember the spouse. Other car clubs I have been a member of seem to
want everything to revolve solely around the cars. These clubs seldom have
spouses present at events or meetings, get the spouse involved and you
remove a barrier to attendance. We recently had a Antique Stores Gimmick
Rally. Drive to a antique store and participates were given questions,  that
the participate had to find the answer to in the store. A shopping rally.

For some of our activities check out www.texmog.com

Hope this helps

Bob


> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey
> Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 8:43 PM
> To: Triumph List
> Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
>
>
> Looking for some ideas. Our local British club has been in
> place for a couple of decades. Same core people hang around.
> Some come, some go. Seems like as time goes on more go than
> come though. Years ago our monthly meeting used to be pretty
> good. Now they are pretty stagnant. Could be because we have
> been following the same exact format for years. Maybe it time
> to try something different. You folks that attend local car
> club meetings, what do other groups do that makes the
> meetings something that folks want to attend and participate in?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Nov 20 15:01:36 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:01:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Measurements - TR3
In-Reply-To: <18377119.16747.1258739139150.JavaMail.root@vms064.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <18377119.16747.1258739139150.JavaMail.root@vms064.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <85198A2F7B9E42F68447F90A7AC8499D@CarlPC>

Thanks to Rod & Daniel for providing the needed information.

Update on the TR3A project:
The car will be completely in primer by Monday and it is going to the 
painter on Wednesday.  I was picking up some boxes on the way home from work 
in which to pack the parts for the 50 mile trek to the painter.  I didn't 
want to mess up the FLAWLESS primer/prep work.

I should have it back around the 5th - although I have until the 17th when I 
am taking an extended holiday break to start the next step - re-assembly.

I can really say that the completion of a 8 year journey is in site.... 
Next weekend I put the finishing touches on the engine rebuild and mate the 
engine/clutch/transmission in anticipation of dropping it into the chassis 
(the tub is going to the painter off the chassis).   I'll also finish the 
brake lines, exhaust, and anything else possible before the tub goes back on 
the chassis (for the 4th and final time).

Later,
Carl
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(updated 9/29/09)




----- Original Message ----- 
From: <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2009 12:45 PM
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Measurements - TR3


> My apologies - the Rich formatting was automatic and didn't realize it.
>
> Thanks Randall.....
>
>
>
> Nov 20, 2009 02:56:38 PM, cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote:
>
> Anyone have access to measure the hood and trunk lids for a TR3?  (outside 
> dimensions at widest points).  Also the 'height'.
>
> I am at work and need the info this afternoon.
>
> Thanks
> Carl
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From NPaul72464 at aol.com  Fri Nov 20 17:15:07 2009
From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:15:07 EST
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
Message-ID: <c45.3e9df3dd.38388b0b@aol.com>

We are a new Triumph club and have been feeling (and getting feedback) that 
meetings were too frequent and too long.  We decided to have two business 
meetings, one in November and one in April.  These are for engaging and 
informing  the membershiop in club directions and decision making.  All other 
meetings will be in the form of short updates and reminders in the context of 
club events (driving tours, picnics, etc.).  We'll see how it goes.
Ned Paulsen
Greater Rochester Triumph Touring Club
rochestertriumphclub.org

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 20 18:51:47 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:51:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W3777ECD1FCBCBAC4B0ECBDBAA10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <567262.66370.qm@web111618.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hi Marty
Ibm lucky to have access to quite a few British car clubs all
within easy reach of my home. Southern California.
The first one I joined was
the most difficult to fit into. For me anyway.
The club met at a restaurants
back room. The regulars for the club had their own table and friends they
shared space with each meeting. groups of 4 and 6 to a table. So as a new guy
I found myself sitting alone most often.


________________________________
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, November 19, 2009 6:43:00 PM
Subject:
[TR] Car club meetings

Looking for some ideas. Our local British club has
been in place for a couple
of decades. Same core people hang around. Some
come, some go. Seems like as
time goes on more go than come though. Years ago
our monthly meeting used to
be pretty good. Now they are pretty stagnant.
Could be because we have been
following the same exact format for years. Maybe
it time to try something
different. You folks that attend local car club
meetings, what do other groups
do that makes the meetings something that folks
want to attend and participate
in?

Thanks,
Marty
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Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
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I found it very difficult to make conversation and form friendships. Mainly
because I was sitting at a different table from every one else. There was no
person charged with identifying the new guys and making any kind of
introduction.
after I had been a member and attended for about 6/8 months the
club organized a get together at the local hot rod cruise and then to go on to
a members house for more fun. The invitation was sent to the members via
email. I turned up for the event, had some conversations with members trying
to hang out and fit in. while chatting to the guy who's house we where to go
to after the event, he suggested to me that I may like to join the club at his
house and maybe I would like to join the club!!!!!! I had seen this guy at the
last 6/8 meetings I had attended.
>From the limited interaction I had these
where really nice people, but just not so organized in how to get new members.
After that I never went back.
B 
I then decided that I would try the 2 triumph
clubs in Los Angeles. SCTOA and TRSC.
Strangely they both meet at the same
British pub/restaurant. And some months they where back to back nights.
The
"problem" these clubs have is that each meeting you go to the pub will give us
one of 2 rooms and the tables are always differently arranged from last time.
So it limits the members from getting into funky clicks and with goodB leaders
they recognize new folks, introduce them and make them feel welcome.
The
second month I attended I found myself sitting with all new members due to the
re-arranged tables and room. And the craic was once again good.
I think this
is what has made the 2 Los Angeles clubs so very successful. The people are
great like so many clubs, and they organize a bunch of activities that get the
members out and driving there cars.
B 
So what makes a good club? Mix up the
seating each meeting and get the members in their cars together.
Of course
these yanks are pretty good company too:-)
B 
Frank
oh yes, and i think its
time for me to renew the membership...oops

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 20 19:03:25 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:03:25 -0800
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <567262.66370.qm@web111618.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20091121020324782.INSD2218@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> So as a new guy
> I found myself sitting alone most often.

It's just like the movies, Frank, if you want a good seat, you'd best show
up early!

I'd be pleased to sit with you, but I have a hard time hearing if I sit too
far away from the action.

Randall

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 20 19:37:26 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:37:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
In-Reply-To: <20091121020324782.INSD2218@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <20091121020324782.INSD2218@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <920039.81029.qm@web111611.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

seems only part of my story made the mail list.
re sending below.
Randal you
exemplify what a good club member is and id like to pronounce you as a friend.
and we have sat together, have enjoyed your company and continue to.

from my
last mail:
Ibm lucky to have access to quite a few British car clubs all
within easy reach of my home. Southern California .
The first one I joined was
the most difficult to fit into. For me anyway.
The club met at a restaurants
back room. The regulars for the club had their own table and friends they
shared space with each meeting. groups of 4 and 6 to a table. So as a new guy
I found myself sitting alone most often.

I found it very difficult to make
conversation and form friendships. Mainly because I was sitting at a different
table from every one else. There was no person charged with identifying the
new guys and making any kind of introduction.
after I had been a member and
attended for about 6/8 months the club organized a get together at the local
hot rod cruise and then to go on to a members house for more fun. The
invitation was sent to the members via email. I turned up for the event, had
some conversations with members trying to hang out and fit in. while chatting
to the guy who's house we where to go to after the event, he suggested to me
that I may like to join the club at his house and maybe I would like to join
the club!!!!!! I had seen this guy at the last 6/8 meetings I had attended.
>From the limited interaction I had these where really nice people, but just
not so organized in how to get new members. After that I never went back.
B 
I
then decided that I would try the 2 triumph clubs in Los Angeles . SCTOA and
TRSC.
Strangely they both meet at the same British pub/restaurant. And some
months they where back to back nights.
The "problem" these clubs have is that
each meeting you go to the pub will give us one of 2 rooms and the tables are
always differently arranged from last time.
So it limits the members from
getting into funky clicks and with goodB leaders they recognize new folks,
introduce them and make them feel welcome.
The second month I attended I found
myself sitting with all new members due to the re-arranged tables and room.
And the craic was once again good.
I think this is what has made the 2 Los
Angeles clubs so very successful. The people are great like so many clubs, and
they organize a bunch of activities that get the members out and driving there
cars.
B 
So what makes a good club? Mix up the seating each meeting and get
the members in their cars together.
Of course these yanks are pretty good
company too:-)
B 
Frank
oh yes, and i think its time for me to renew the
membership...oops

________________________________
From: Randall
<tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, November 20, 2009
6:03:25 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Car club meetings

> So as a new guy
> I found
myself sitting alone most often.

It's just like the movies, Frank, if you
want a good seat, you'd best show
up early!

I'd be pleased to sit with you,
but I have a hard time hearing if I sit too
far away from the action.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Support Team.NetB 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 20 19:41:08 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:41:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Tire pressure in a TR3
Message-ID: <915020.30398.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

What tire pressure are you guys running in your TR3 with radials?
Im sure the factory pressures where for belted tires not radials
Frank

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 20 20:03:11 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:03:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tire pressure in a TR3
In-Reply-To: <915020.30398.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <915020.30398.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911201903h4399ba60y972c4bb939ac6ae6@mail.gmail.com>

I think the 'Practical Hints' handbook included pressures for the
Michelin radials.

Anyway -- I use 34F / 36R which is certainly higher than the manual
and likely higher than most would choose to use but suits me.

Geo


On 11/20/09, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> What tire pressure are you guys running in your TR3 with radials?
> Im sure the factory pressures where for belted tires not radials
> Frank

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Fri Nov 20 20:13:55 2009
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:13:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph Stag frame dimensions
Message-ID: <4B075AF3.6080703@triumphstagclub.org>

All,
Sorry to deluge all the Triumph lists.
A local repair shoppe has asked me for frame dimensions to put a Stag 
they have back to OE points.  Of course I directed them to the Stag ROM 
section 76, or to an unbent Stag or two that I have.
Problem is, the points in the Repair Operations Manual are all 
referenced to the Six (6) Churchill special frame jig tooling and points 
are all measured off of those jigs precision bolt holes or precision 
bracket edges for positioning.

I recall when I was a kid at the dealership in Pennsylvania that there 
were two US equipment companies - Great Bear, I think was one I remember 
that had all the frame points translated to frame checking straightening 
equipment buried into concrete from standard datum points that could be 
referenced from a set of squared up datum points on a flat floor / 
inlaid frame rails. 

Has anyone located any of these type of stand alone specifications, the 
full set of Churchill tooling, or other datum points and measurements 
that can be used to stretch a Stag back into proper "square"?   If so, 
please contact me.

Might also be handy to archive this information for all the other 
Triumph model lines, but I recall that TR7's and TR8's are programmed 
into some of the popular frame straightening equipment.
I know RATCO does TR4/5/250/6 frames and has those jigs, but Stags are a 
bit more rare in North America.

Thanks!

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Nov 20 21:13:32 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:13:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] Tire pressure in a TR3
In-Reply-To: <915020.30398.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20091121041331546.KRZP27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Im sure the factory pressures where for belted tires not radials

Since radials were available as an option, they pretty much had to list
pressures for them.  Book gives 24 psi front, 28 rear, for Michelin X tyres
(which were radials); with a note to increase by 5 psi if the car is
consistently driven "hard and fast".  IMO, US freeways count as "hard and
fast", so I'd suggest starting at 29/33 (assuming your tires are rated that
high) and see how that suits you.

I run mine rather higher than that; but then my tires and wheels aren't
exactly the stock sizes either; plus I'm willing to accept a harsher ride in
return for more precise handling.  

Randall

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 20 18:33:15 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:33:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] car club meetings
Message-ID: <540385.31539.qm@web65307.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

sorry to say i haven't been attending our british car group meetings for the past two years due to both cars being out of commission.  Our group has been meeting once a month (first monday of the month) and we hardly describe ourselves as a "club".  It's much too informal.  We have no officers.  Once a month a self appointed "organizer" (its been the same person for years)  sends out an email to all members (aroung 50) announcing where we meet.  Usually a well known parking lot.  We than caravan to a restuarant, usually 20 to 30 miles away, have something to eat, visit then maybe drive some place else for ice cream then home.  tech stuff can be discussed informally..........women are usually always along.  we have a christmas party as well as a leaf tour.  The leaf tour is usually a day long affair.  Many informal drives are planned on the spur of the moment.  No one is interested in having a formal club which meets for planned programs and it seems to
 work for us.  The attitude seems to be driving.  It's also a multi marque club with mostly  british.

gary n.

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Fri Nov 20 23:12:22 2009
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:12:22 EST
Subject: [TR] Car club meetings
Message-ID: <c7e.401ada26.3838dec6@aol.com>

Marty
 

We are a central New Jersey, all marque club with 90+ family  memberships.  
We have grown 10 % this year.  Our club meets on a  set night at a local 
restaurant that does not charge for the room. Our  attendance for the past 
three months has averaged 42 persons, mostly couples who  arrive early for 
dinner. The meetings are somewhat informal and we receive  quite a bit of input, 
any topic can be discussed.  Our spouses enjoy  the night out.  We have an 
occasional program, some good, some  not.
 
There are several smaller groups who get together socially, but  everyone 
gets along well and we try to reach out to new members.
 
We do a least 4 tour/drives a year from 50 to 200 miles. The fall run  went 
through covered bridges in eastern Pennsylvania with 27 cars divided into 3 
 groups.  Always with a lunch stop for socializing. Summer months always  
have ice cream runs.  Winter there are impromptu dinners.  We are  always 
looking for and open to new ideas.
 
We have a number of small show/displays supporting the Chamber of Commerce  
in several local communities and participate in charity cruise nights. This 
year  we moved our annual show to a historic beach town, Ocean Grove, 
within sight and  sound of the Atlantic Ocean.  It was a great success and helped 
in our  growth.
 
In short, active and friendly.  I hope this information will be  helpful.




Rodney Ford,  Brick, NJ
President, Positive Earth Drivers Club
TR4A IRS CTC 60536  L
TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Nov 21 07:14:02 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:14:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 steering rack
Message-ID: <BAY123-W29848FFDEB2F518F87139BBAA00@phx.gbl>

As my rebuild continues I need to replace the steering rack that was taken out
in my oops. I have a used spare in my parts pile that I could freshen up but I
am dreaming about one of those quick ratio units. Not sure I justify the cost.
Anybody installed one in their car? Do you like it? Whats the best source for
it?

Thanks,
Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Nov 21 09:23:45 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:23:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
Message-ID: <0800EB5E64AF42DF86A92535702D3E6D@bboffice>

Good morning List,
 
I am wondering if there is anything better than the cork gasket for the
stock chrome valve cover for my TR3A.  What are you using, stock from TRF,
Moss, BPNW or some new space age material?
 
Thanks,
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat Nov 21 09:52:41 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:52:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
In-Reply-To: <0800EB5E64AF42DF86A92535702D3E6D@bboffice>
Message-ID: <700839628.7286821258822361473.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Justin Wagner at www.jmwagnersales.com has a great silicone gasket with sealing washers and nuts -- be careful to not overtighten and dent the valve cover. 
Tom 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: wbeech at flash.net 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 11:23:45 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3 

Good morning List, 

I am wondering if there is anything better than the cork gasket for the 
stock chrome valve cover for my TR3A. What are you using, stock from TRF, 
Moss, BPNW or some new space age material? 

Thanks, 

Bill Beecher 
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) 
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of 
course, some times it is difficult to make it go" 

_ 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Nov 21 10:45:20 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 12:45:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
In-Reply-To: <700839628.7286821258822361473.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <0800EB5E64AF42DF86A92535702D3E6D@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4B07E0E0.2925.BBF37A@localhost>

On 21 Nov 2009 at 16:52, tfansher at comcast.net wrote:

> Justin Wagner at www.jmwagnersales.com has a great silicone
> gasket with sealing washers and nuts -- be careful to not
> overtighten and dent the valve cover.

But for that true fresh-from-the-factory look, aren't you first 
supposed to put a few pinholes in it before installation?

Just wondering.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From blambert at socal.rr.com  Sat Nov 21 10:54:14 2009
From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:54:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
In-Reply-To: <700839628.7286821258822361473.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091121175415420.VVDY20219@hrndva-omta04.mail.rr.com>

I'll second the recommendation to use Justin's silicone gasket.  I have one
on my TR3A and love it.  In fact, I even bought a spare just in case they
ever become unavailable (or if ever I build another 3).
NFI of course; just a happy customer.

Dennis

> Justin Wagner at www.jmwagnersales.com has a great silicone gasket with
> sealing washers and nuts -- be careful to not overtighten and dent the
> valve cover.
> Tom

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sat Nov 21 10:08:44 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:08:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
In-Reply-To: <0800EB5E64AF42DF86A92535702D3E6D@bboffice>
References: <0800EB5E64AF42DF86A92535702D3E6D@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4B081E9C.3000909@comcast.net>

I have been using the cheap cork gasket that came with my head gasket
set. I glued it to the surface of the valve cover using weather strip
adhesive. It's been on and off the engine numerous times for valve
adjustments etc. with no leaks. I am careful not to over tighten it when
I put it back on.

Mike

1956 TR3 TS11544L

wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Good morning List,
>  
> I am wondering if there is anything better than the cork gasket for the
> stock chrome valve cover for my TR3A.  What are you using, stock from TRF,
> Moss, BPNW or some new space age material?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Nov 21 11:16:26 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 10:16:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
In-Reply-To: <700839628.7286821258822361473.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091121181627087.WBWQ22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Justin Wagner at www.jmwagnersales.com has a great silicone 
> gasket with sealing washers and nuts -- be careful to not 
> overtighten and dent the valve cover. 

I'll second Justin's gasket.  Note however that it can only be used with the
stock sheet metal cover; it won't fit with alloy covers.  It's also just a
wee bit more difficult to install, at least for me, as you have to set the
cover on and then poke the gasket until the cover falls into the matching
groove in the gasket.  But once in place, it seals perfectly and is
basically infinitely reusable (barring accidents like dropping a cylinder
head on it).

Also worth noting that Justin isn't always immediately available.  His 'day
job' sometimes requires his full attention for weeks at a time (and no
internet access).  So if he doesn't respond immediately, please be patient
and he'll get to you ASAP.

Randall

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Nov 21 13:30:39 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:30:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
In-Reply-To: <20091121181627087.WBWQ22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
References: <700839628.7286821258822361473.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20091121181627087.WBWQ22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911211230u32cf3d97nc1e1c71a989334b1@mail.gmail.com>

I have always used the cork and have reused them through many many
valve adjustments.  I note which way is forward & up and reinstall it
with the same orientation and, of course, do not over-tighten.  Over
time it has taken on a shape to accomodate the edge of the valve cover
making it molded custom cork of a sort.

Note that there are different cork gaskets on the market -- looking at
a couple of spares hanging on the pegboard (one quite old & one left
over from a gasket set purchased mainly for the manifold and head
gaskets) I see that one (Payen?) is quite a bit thicker than the
other.

I do not doubt that the silicone is a fine product -- just noting that
the cork can work fine for some.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Nov 21 15:21:57 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:21:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0911211230u32cf3d97nc1e1c71a989334b1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <700839628.7286821258822361473.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><20091121181627087.WBWQ22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
	<7bb181af0911211230u32cf3d97nc1e1c71a989334b1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CF904C44C0B24AB4BD6DEE9CAF4EFC7C@bboffice>

Geo,
Do you use any sealer on either side?
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 1:31 PM
To: TR List
Subject: Re: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3

I have always used the cork and have reused them through many many valve
adjustments.  I note which way is forward & up and reinstall it with the
same orientation and, of course, do not over-tighten.  Over time it has
taken on a shape to accomodate the edge of the valve cover making it molded
custom cork of a sort.

Note that there are different cork gaskets on the market -- looking at a
couple of spares hanging on the pegboard (one quite old & one left over from
a gasket set purchased mainly for the manifold and head
gaskets) I see that one (Payen?) is quite a bit thicker than the other.

I do not doubt that the silicone is a fine product -- just noting that the
cork can work fine for some.
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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat Nov 21 17:39:15 2009
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:39:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] restoration from hell
In-Reply-To: <30209DCFC5E545B6A9B7C4E740A990E4@ranteer.local>
References: <30209DCFC5E545B6A9B7C4E740A990E4@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770911211639s62ce4d01n14cddc88f9f27421@mail.gmail.com>

Wow!   What a journey you have been on.

I've seen your posts, but just now looked at your webpage.

That would have certianly been a parts car to most of us.  You saved it. And
it's looking really good.

You are showing us not to give up on a car just because its rusty and ugly.
I'ts lookign so great now.

Congrats!

Chris

On Tue, Nov 17, 2009 at 1:36 PM, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> some of you may remember the extreme pain i have gone through over the
> years.
> its documented on my website.
>
> anyway, good news!  we have a color, we got the tranny cover painted and we
> all love it.  it's ice blue, fyi, taken from an actual paint sample on an
> early sidescreen car
>
> it looks like the car will finally get painted, and then we can put it
> together.
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/index.html#update
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Nov 21 19:13:06 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:13:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
In-Reply-To: <CF904C44C0B24AB4BD6DEE9CAF4EFC7C@bboffice>
References: <700839628.7286821258822361473.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20091121181627087.WBWQ22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
	<7bb181af0911211230u32cf3d97nc1e1c71a989334b1@mail.gmail.com>
	<CF904C44C0B24AB4BD6DEE9CAF4EFC7C@bboffice>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911211813g34dd96bah4e470a3d276e40e3@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/21/09, wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> Geo,
> Do you use any sealer on either side?
> Bill

I've used Hylomar in the past but as I recall from when I recently had
the valve cover off the remains of the Hylomar were still tacky enough
that I simply put the gasket back on w/o using any additional sealant.

I suspect that a well-broken-in (but undamaged) cork gasket may
actually seal better than a new cork one which presents a flat surface
to the cover and may further compress over time.

Geo

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Nov 21 22:17:12 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:17:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0911211813g34dd96bah4e470a3d276e40e3@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <700839628.7286821258822361473.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20091121181627087.WBWQ22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
	<7bb181af0911211230u32cf3d97nc1e1c71a989334b1@mail.gmail.com>
	<CF904C44C0B24AB4BD6DEE9CAF4EFC7C@bboffice>
	<7bb181af0911211813g34dd96bah4e470a3d276e40e3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20091122051731.6D3A9187643@autox.team.net>

I have an alloy valve cover and the cork gasket is "glued" to the 
valve cover with Indian Head Shellac.  I use no sealant on the head 
side.  When I pull the valve cover (which is pretty often) the gasket 
comes with it.  There's probably a little weepage but it's hard to see.

- Tony Drews

At 08:13 PM 11/21/2009, Geo Hahn wrote:
>On 11/21/09, wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> > Geo,
> > Do you use any sealer on either side?
> > Bill
>
>I've used Hylomar in the past but as I recall from when I recently had
>the valve cover off the remains of the Hylomar were still tacky enough
>that I simply put the gasket back on w/o using any additional sealant.
>
>I suspect that a well-broken-in (but undamaged) cork gasket may
>actually seal better than a new cork one which presents a flat surface
>to the cover and may further compress over time.
>
>Geo

From tom628 at verizon.net  Sat Nov 21 23:18:34 2009
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 01:18:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 steering rack
References: <BAY123-W29848FFDEB2F518F87139BBAA00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4683C2D515904D07892B3E8EE5FA01A6@Toms>

Marty:  Ours was installed by the PO, and it's all we've known. I like it 
very much. The car seems to respond almost as you think about it.  Some guys 
don't like it because they say you can't relax w/o the car drifting off 
line, but I don't find that to be the case at all. And if you enjoy spirited 
driving, the steering is a joy thru the twisties.
I've recently tried the stock rack in another TR6, and it's fine, but I'm 
spoiled by the quick rack.
Some people have said it's heavy steering, especially for parking, but my 
(adult) daughter has no problems or complaints with it.
If you're anywhere near the So. Central PA area you're welcome to try ours.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "6 Digest" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph List" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 9:14 AM
Subject: [6pack] TR6 steering rack


> As my rebuild continues I need to replace the steering rack that was taken 
> out
> in my oops. I have a used spare in my parts pile that I could freshen up 
> but I
> am dreaming about one of those quick ratio units. Not sure I justify the 
> cost.
> Anybody installed one in their car? Do you like it? Whats the best source 
> for
> it?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Nov 22 16:01:18 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 15:01:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] Question of the Week
Message-ID: <a06240803c72f72e60470@[192.168.2.2]>

Does the speedometer inner cable turn when the transmission is in 
neutral, and the car pushed a few feet ???
	Yes
	No
	Maybe

-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Nov 22 16:33:53 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 16:33:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Question of the Week
In-Reply-To: <a06240803c72f72e60470@[192.168.2.2]>
References: <a06240803c72f72e60470@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <4B09CA61.2020800@bradakis.com>

> Does the speedometer inner cable turn when the transmission is in 
> neutral, and the car pushed a few feet ???


Yes.  The cable is driven off a gear on the tailshaft of the gearbox.  
If the tail flange
is turning, a properly functioning speedo gear will turn the cable.

mjb.

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Nov 22 16:36:05 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 16:36:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Question of the Week
In-Reply-To: <a06240803c72f72e60470@192.168.2.2>
References: <a06240803c72f72e60470@192.168.2.2>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911221536h1cb47666s17cfefcfa2664505@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/22/09, Bill <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:
> Does the speedometer inner cable turn when the transmission is in
> neutral, and the car pushed a few feet ???

Yes.

Since the speedo drive is connected to the output shaft and that turns
when the driveshaft/diff/rear wheels turn... it would appear that is
will.

For that matter, just put the car in neutral as you roll down a
mountain and you will see the speedo still registering your speed.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov 22 16:40:19 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 15:40:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] Question of the Week
In-Reply-To: <a06240803c72f72e60470@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <20091122234020355.UOOB2218@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Does the speedometer inner cable turn when the transmission is in 
> neutral, and the car pushed a few feet ???

It should, unless something is broken.  In effect it is geared directly to
the driveshaft.  Should make roughly one revolution every 5 feet or so.

Randall

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Nov 22 16:52:52 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 16:52:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Question of the Week
In-Reply-To: <a06240803c72f72e60470@[192.168.2.2]>
References: <a06240803c72f72e60470@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <3E6659B3251845308ED629E6C947C56C@bboffice>

Sure, wouldn't that be the same as depressing the clutch and coasting down a
hill?

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 4:01 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Question of the Week

Does the speedometer inner cable turn when the transmission is in neutral,
and the car pushed a few feet ???
	Yes
	No
	Maybe

--
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake
it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
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From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Sun Nov 22 17:14:04 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:14:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] Question of the Week
In-Reply-To: <a06240803c72f72e60470@192.168.2.2>
Message-ID: <001636c5c29104cbb20478feb4d2@google.com>

Bill,

I don't know how few feet you mean, but yes, the inner cable should turn  
even when the gearbox is in neutral. Recall that when driving down the  
road, and moving the gear stick to neutral doesn't send the speedo to zero.

Just moving a foot or two will be hardly detectable, I'll guess.

Brian

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Nov 22 17:24:45 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 18:24:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] Question of the Week
In-Reply-To: <a06240803c72f72e60470@[192.168.2.2]>
References: <a06240803c72f72e60470@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <20091123002506.873F318764D@autox.team.net>

Yes, as long as the driveshaft is installed.

- Tony

At 05:01 PM 11/22/2009, Bill wrote:
>Does the speedometer inner cable turn when the transmission is in 
>neutral, and the car pushed a few feet ???
>         Yes
>         No
>         Maybe
>
>--
>"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
>undertake it." - Henry Ford
>Bill Pugh
>1957 TR3
>"Casper"
>TS16765L
>Wallace, CA

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Nov 22 17:41:12 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 19:41:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Question of the Week
In-Reply-To: <a06240803c72f72e60470@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <4B0993D8.27079.B38120@localhost>

On 22 Nov 2009 at 15:01, Bill wrote:

> Does the speedometer inner cable turn when the transmission is in 
> neutral, and the car pushed a few feet ???
> 	Yes
> 	No
> 	Maybe

Yes.  It may not turn much, being driven by a worm gear on the tranny 
mainshaft, but it must turn some.  Does it matter?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From dlylis at gmail.com  Sun Nov 22 19:50:08 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 02:50:08 +0000
Subject: [TR] Question of the Week
Message-ID: <mailman.0.1258944662.11768.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I will join in with yes as that is how you get the reading to calibrate the speedo. Push it 52' 9 1/2" and count the cable rotations. 
------Original Message------
From: Tony Drews
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: Bill
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Question of the Week
Sent: Nov 22, 2009 7:24 PM

Yes, as long as the driveshaft is installed.

- Tony

At 05:01 PM 11/22/2009, Bill wrote:
>Does the speedometer inner cable turn when the transmission is in 
>neutral, and the car pushed a few feet ???
>         Yes
>         No
>         Maybe
>
>--
>"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
>undertake it." - Henry Ford
>Bill Pugh
>1957 TR3
>"Casper"
>TS16765L
>Wallace, CA

_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Mon Nov 23 07:32:02 2009
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:32:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] pertronix PEI and coil type
Message-ID: <380-220091112314322703@earthlink.net>

> I hope this is a simple question with a simple answer.  Does it matter 
> whether the coil has a ballast when converting to an electronic 
> ignition?
> Thanks,
> Gary O

The simple answer is yes.

The more complicated answer is that the total resistance of the coil plus
any ballast must be sufficient to limit the current through the Pertronix.

In a 6-cylinder engine, the current through the Pertronix should not exceed
4 amps. If, for example, you run a Lucas Sport Coil with 3.0 ohms of
resistance, and your coil is getting 13- or 14 volts from the alternator,
you will probably become one of the Pertronix-haters you see on the
Internet, who claim the unit "just died". 14 volts through 3 ohms gives you
4.67 Amps, which exceeds Pertronix's published spec for a 6-cylinder car.

You need to measure the resistance of the coil, and measure the voltage of
the wire feeding the coil. Volts divided by Ohms will give you the current
in Amps. If the answer is more than 4.0, and your engine has 6 cylinders,
you need to add a resistor.

Cheers, Tom

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Nov 23 16:39:12 2009
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 23:39:12 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
Message-ID: <583801.75104.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Listers

Since joining in about 1996, I've used Outlook Express continuously and
entirely without probs. Just spent most of this evening trying to find a 'fix'
on the 'net and without success.
Essentially, I can open all messages / attachments without probs. I can click
on Reply or Reply to All and the reply pane opens up with all the bells and
whistles I want - but I can't type anything in the message section. Can type
in address and subject section but not where it matters. Anyone got any
suggestions, please? I'm running XP and Outlook Express 6.0.

Cheers - and thanks in anticipation
Jonmac

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 23 18:05:42 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 19:05:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
References: <583801.75104.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <80CF070FAB324155B514FC5EB65B9992@ranteer.local>

this may work - i had a client today who had that problem in IE.  IE and 
outlook express, i think, are tied together.
go to start/run and type in %temp% and hit enter.
type ctrl a and shift del to delete everything you can.  this, btw, is 
standard maintenance and should be done on a regular basis.
now go to IE, and go to tools / internet options and select delete
then select delete all, and yes, delete everything.  close ie, then go to 
start, run, and type in cmd
you'll get a black "dos" box.  type chkdsk /f and hit enter.
type y and enter  (again, standard maintenance sort of stuff)
as an extra, go to start, programs, accessories, system tools, and disk 
cleanup.  it will run for a bit, and show you some check boxes.
check all except for the microsoft office setup files.
then i think you hit ok, and it will run for a bit, then just disappear. 
that means its done
reboot, and see if that helps.

except for the IE delete, this is pretty standard maintenance stuff, and 
should be done on a regular basis (monthly).  i usually charge to do this 
<grin>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 5:39 PM
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!


> Listers
>
> Since joining in about 1996, I've used Outlook Express continuously and
> entirely without probs. Just spent most of this evening trying to find a 
> 'fix'
> on the 'net and without success.
> Essentially, I can open all messages / attachments without probs. I can 
> click
> on Reply or Reply to All and the reply pane opens up with all the bells 
> and
> whistles I want - but I can't type anything in the message section. Can 
> type
> in address and subject section but not where it matters. Anyone got any
> suggestions, please? I'm running XP and Outlook Express 6.0.
>
> Cheers - and thanks in anticipation
> Jonmac

From dlylis at gmail.com  Mon Nov 23 19:23:40 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 02:23:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <583801.75104.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <583801.75104.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.1.1259029477.11768.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Assuming you have the program CD that came with the computer, uninstall and reinstall. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: John Macartney <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 23:39:12 
To: Triumph List<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!

Listers

Since joining in about 1996, I've used Outlook Express continuously and
entirely without probs. Just spent most of this evening trying to find a 'fix'
on the 'net and without success.
Essentially, I can open all messages / attachments without probs. I can click
on Reply or Reply to All and the reply pane opens up with all the bells and
whistles I want - but I can't type anything in the message section. Can type
in address and subject section but not where it matters. Anyone got any
suggestions, please? I'm running XP and Outlook Express 6.0.

Cheers - and thanks in anticipation
Jonmac

_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov 23 19:31:26 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:31:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <80CF070FAB324155B514FC5EB65B9992@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <20091124023126160.IYFD27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> except for the IE delete, this is pretty standard maintenance 
> stuff, and 
> should be done on a regular basis (monthly).

There is a freeware tool that will do about 80% of this (everything but the
chkdsk) plus lots of other maintenance cleanup.
http://www.ccleaner.com/

Randall

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 23 21:20:04 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:20:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <20091124023126160.IYFD27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <80CF070FAB324155B514FC5EB65B9992@ranteer.local>
	<20091124023126160.IYFD27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911232020l1897be4fibe5713398f657006@mail.gmail.com>

I sent John a message earlier but I suppose he is asleep (I'm at UT +7
hours) so perhaps we'll learn tomorrow what works.

My thought was that this condition would occur if you accidentally
changed the font color to the same as the background color (e.g.
white).

You would indeed be entering characters but they would not be visible
(though they would appear if you left-clicked to highlight the missing
text).

Anyway, as a thought problem it makes a pleasant change from DOT5,
ZDDP & Pertronix.

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 23 21:21:48 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:21:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0911232020l1897be4fibe5713398f657006@mail.gmail.com>
References: <80CF070FAB324155B514FC5EB65B9992@ranteer.local>
	<20091124023126160.IYFD27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
	<7bb181af0911232020l1897be4fibe5713398f657006@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911232021n133a56b0tc198c14eaa997b8f@mail.gmail.com>

Oops, I meant UT -7 hours of course.

On 11/23/09, Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote:
> I sent John a message earlier but I suppose he is asleep (I'm at UT +7
> hours)...

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Nov 23 21:59:25 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 23:59:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0911232021n133a56b0tc198c14eaa997b8f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <7bb181af0911232020l1897be4fibe5713398f657006@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B0B21DD.31559.6C64459@localhost>

On 23 Nov 2009 at 21:21, Geo Hahn wrote:

> Oops, I meant UT -7 hours of course.

While Jonmac is most certainly at UT+0.  So, tell me, what kind of 
ZDDP is best to use with Pertronix?  Is it compatible with DOT5?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Nov 23 22:46:53 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:46:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0911232020l1897be4fibe5713398f657006@mail.gmail.com>
References: <80CF070FAB324155B514FC5EB65B9992@ranteer.local><20091124023126160.IYFD27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
	<7bb181af0911232020l1897be4fibe5713398f657006@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8ACAB119A9BE4698B7628A2FDDEF26F1@bboffice>

UT?  I thought John was on GMT(Greenwich Mean Time)in England.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 9:20 PM
To: TR List
Subject: Re: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!

I sent John a message earlier but I suppose he is asleep (I'm at UT +7
hours) so perhaps we'll learn tomorrow what works.

My thought was that this condition would occur if you accidentally changed
the font color to the same as the background color (e.g.
white).

You would indeed be entering characters but they would not be visible
(though they would appear if you left-clicked to highlight the missing
text).

Anyway, as a thought problem it makes a pleasant change from DOT5, ZDDP &
Pertronix.

Geo
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov 23 23:19:36 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:19:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <8ACAB119A9BE4698B7628A2FDDEF26F1@bboffice>
Message-ID: <20091124061936570.PLXO22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> UT?  I thought John was on GMT(Greenwich Mean Time)in England.

Same thing; or at least too close to argue about.

Randall

From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov 24 05:36:38 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 07:36:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0911232020l1897be4fibe5713398f657006@mail.gmail.com>
References: <80CF070FAB324155B514FC5EB65B9992@ranteer.local><20091124023126160.IYFD27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
	<7bb181af0911232020l1897be4fibe5713398f657006@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC3B19E677B6CA-8CF4-FFFB@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
To: TR List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Nov 23, 2009 10:20 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!


<snip>
Anyway, as a thought problem it makes a pleasant change from DOT5,
ZDDP & Pertronix.

Geo



Or State Slogans?


;-)

Dave

From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov 24 05:39:43 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 07:39:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0911232021n133a56b0tc198c14eaa997b8f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <80CF070FAB324155B514FC5EB65B9992@ranteer.local><20091124023126160.IYFD27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com><7bb181af0911232020l1897be4fibe5713398f657006@mail.gmail.com>
	<7bb181af0911232021n133a56b0tc198c14eaa997b8f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC3B1A54EE85CA-8CF4-100C9@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
To: TR List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Nov 23, 2009 10:21 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!


Oops, I meant UT -7 hours of course.





Da.  UT + 7 would put you in Vladivostok, Comrade.


Boris, er, I mean Dave

From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov 24 05:47:20 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 07:47:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <8ACAB119A9BE4698B7628A2FDDEF26F1@bboffice>
References: <80CF070FAB324155B514FC5EB65B9992@ranteer.local><20091124023126160.IYFD27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com><7bb181af0911232020l1897be4fibe5713398f657006@mail.gmail.com>
	<8ACAB119A9BE4698B7628A2FDDEF26F1@bboffice>
Message-ID: <8CC3B1B6593C38A-8CF4-1026B@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com>

 In this case UT stands for Universal Coordinated Time (actually the acronym
is UTC), and not Utah after all.

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech at flash.net
To: 'Geo Hahn' <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>; 'TR List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Nov 23, 2009 11:46 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!


UT?  I thought John was on GMT(Greenwich Mean Time)in England.

Bill Beecher

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Nov 24 05:57:15 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 07:57:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <80CF070FAB324155B514FC5EB65B9992@ranteer.local>
References: <583801.75104.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<80CF070FAB324155B514FC5EB65B9992@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <200911240757.15576.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Windows list users,

It always amazes me what you WIndows users put up with and you pay $ for your 
OS and software!

If it was me and I wanted to pay for a system, I would choose a MAC.

But since I am in business to make $, I choose Linux(Ubuntu flavor). Everything 
is free and a "caveman" can install and maintain any system.

Device support is expanding everyday and problems are minimum.

Most software is free and easy to use. And your system will not slow down as 
it gets older!

Also upgrades are also free and usually take about 5 hours to install 
depending on your download speed and time of day performing the install.

Bob

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Nov 24 06:20:26 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 08:20:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <8CC3B1B6593C38A-8CF4-1026B@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8ACAB119A9BE4698B7628A2FDDEF26F1@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4B0B974A.4044.890F8E1@localhost>

On 24 Nov 2009 at 7:47, dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> In this case UT stands for Universal Coordinated Time (actually
> the acronym is UTC), and not Utah after all.

Utah, Greenwich, Vladivostok, wherever...

(I had no idea a TR could be so fast.)

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Nov 24 06:43:57 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 08:43:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <200911240757.15576.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <80CF070FAB324155B514FC5EB65B9992@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4B0B9CCD.10073.8A67DD9@localhost>

On 24 Nov 2009 at 7:57, Bob wrote:

> It always amazes me what you WIndows users put up with and you
> pay $ for your OS and software!

Some people even drive MG's too.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Nov 24 07:03:07 2009
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 14:03:07 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <200911240757.15576.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <74351.84376.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi, Bob

I'd agree that Apple products have 'a degree of reliability' over and above
Windoze equivalents. Trouble is (for me at least, in "goode olde we'll
financyialle rippe-youe-offe Englande" that to invest in an Apple product is
entirely cost-prohibitive. I'm currently in the process of buying a new laptop
and have studied many different versions currently on sale here. Sadly, an
Apple of the type I'd like will cost me more than 2.5 times the cost of a
Sony, Tosh or Fujitsu - and this seems rather a waste of valued pension
reserves for essentially private and non-commercial use?
There used to be a saying over here (in the commercial and industrial
organisations this country once had before they all migrated to China) that
"no-one got fired for buying 'Big Blue'" - a reference I believe to IBM and
clones of that ilk? But maybe I've just been lucky this far (?) as I've found
the offerings of Mr. William Gates' somewhat mind-boggling worldwide emporium
to have actually proved to be entirely dependable for me and therefore I see
little point in making the change. And anyway, I'm an 'oldish' dog who isn't
too willing to learn (simple) new tricks :)

To keep within a Triumph topic, why bother to learn how to set up Strombergs
when you already know how to get a Lucas petrol injection system (almost)
working as it should?

Cheers, Jonmac

From pdnldsn at gmail.com  Tue Nov 24 07:21:33 2009
From: pdnldsn at gmail.com (Paul Donaldson)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 09:21:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 restoration
Message-ID: <a09bd37e0911240621i2f193581kd4828684e1ddc525@mail.gmail.com>

I'm new to the Triumph community, and recently moved to Ohio.   I am
interested in exploring the options for a complete restoration for my
'60.  I live in the Akron area, and am looking for connections with
estimates in northeastern Ohio.
Anyone interested, or with ideas/suggestions could email me with a
phone number and best time to call.
Thanks.
Paul
pdnldsn at aol.com

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Tue Nov 24 08:54:35 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 10:54:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Absolutely non-Triumph - but HELP!
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30911240754xe3c193eye2f626aa38b0f651@mail.gmail.com>
References: <200911240757.15576.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<74351.84376.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<a38798b30911240754xe3c193eye2f626aa38b0f651@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30911240754s4010c2a2kf35c56c906c416c3@mail.gmail.com>

 Excellent: we've another either /or debate for our list: Mac Vs Windows.
Add to the list: Dot 4 Vs 5, Push Vs Pull, Gear oil Vs Engine oil in
overdrive.....

Brian
-- I've a windows laptop for my endentured servitude and a MacBook Pro for
my fleeting moments of fanciful freedom. I have the capacity to be
frustrated by both machines. I abstain.

  On Tue, Nov 24, 2009 at 9:03 AM, John Macartney <
macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> Hi, Bob
>
> I'd agree that Apple products have 'a degree of reliability' over and above
> Windoze equivalents. Trouble is (for me at least, in "goode olde we'll
> financyialle rippe-youe-offe Englande" that to invest in an Apple product
> is
> entirely cost-prohibitive. I'm currently in the process of buying a new
> laptop
> and have studied many different versions currently on sale here. Sadly, an
> Apple of the type I'd like will cost me more than 2.5 times the cost of a
> Sony, Tosh or Fujitsu - and this seems rather a waste of valued pension
> reserves for essentially private and non-commercial use?
> There used to be a saying over here (in the commercial and industrial
> organisations this country once had before they all migrated to China) that
> "no-one got fired for buying 'Big Blue'" - a reference I believe to IBM and
> clones of that ilk? But maybe I've just been lucky this far (?) as I've
> found
> the offerings of Mr. William Gates' somewhat mind-boggling worldwide
> emporium
> to have actually proved to be entirely dependable for me and therefore I
> see
> little point in making the change. And anyway, I'm an 'oldish' dog who
> isn't
> too willing to learn (simple) new tricks :)
>
> To keep within a Triumph topic, why bother to learn how to set up
> Strombergs
> when you already know how to get a Lucas petrol injection system (almost)
> working as it should?
>
> Cheers, Jonmac
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From trstreep at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 24 11:57:30 2009
From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 12:57:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 restoration
In-Reply-To: <a09bd37e0911240621i2f193581kd4828684e1ddc525@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <KIEHKFKPJNJONEIJGKEDIEBMDKAA.trstreep@sbcglobal.net>

You may want to check with Mark Macy at Macy's garage
http://www.macysgarage.com/ [937/266-1831].  He is the technical advisor for
TRA and his shop is in Ohio.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Paul Donaldson
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 8:22 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 restoration


I'm new to the Triumph community, and recently moved to Ohio.   I am
interested in exploring the options for a complete restoration for my
'60.  I live in the Akron area, and am looking for connections with
estimates in northeastern Ohio.
Anyone interested, or with ideas/suggestions could email me with a
phone number and best time to call.
Thanks.
Paul
pdnldsn at aol.com
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Nov 24 13:31:25 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 15:31:25 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 restoration
Message-ID: <d2d.561e1d43.383d9c9d@aol.com>

Hey Paul,
Welcome to NE OHIO!  You should go to _http://www.nctaweb.com/_ 
(http://www.nctaweb.com/)  and check out a  great local Triumph club in your area which 
is a Chapter of the Vintage  Triumph Register, a Center of the Triumph 
Register of America and a chapter of  6-PACK. We like NASS, Stag Club of America 
and the TR8CCA too. 100 or  so families strong.  Really you will find some 
information you need at  our website and please join our club for we can 
point you in the right  direction.  We would love to have another sidescreen TR 
in our club.
Cheers,
Darrell Floyd
62 TR3B plus a few other TR's, Spits & a GT6+
330-666-2817  evenings
Bath, OH
 
 
In a message dated 11/24/2009 9:37:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
pdnldsn at gmail.com writes:

I'm new  to the Triumph community, and recently moved to Ohio.   I  am
interested in exploring the options for a complete restoration for  my
'60.  I live in the Akron area, and am looking for connections  with
estimates in northeastern Ohio.
Anyone interested, or with  ideas/suggestions could email me with a
phone number and best time to  call.
Thanks.
Paul
pdnldsn at aol.com

From auprichard at comcast.net  Tue Nov 24 15:01:24 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 17:01:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Need to sell
In-Reply-To: <d2d.561e1d43.383d9c9d@aol.com>
References: <d2d.561e1d43.383d9c9d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6E5CAE946E994E28A00E6A066D43931A@DCH6RFC1>

List:

I appreciate that this list is not primarily a forum to advertise and sell,
so I hope I don't offend.

Having just bought a TR250, I need to sell my recently-restored TR3A (TS
51185L) to finance the restoration of CD 8433.  51185 is a fast-road TR3
with numerous modifications - too many to list here - which will be
expensive.  I have an offer from Europe, but selling locally in the US will
obviously save shipping.  I'll not be listing the car in the US (eBay or
otherwise), so this will be my only mention of selling the car.  If anyone
wants to contact me off-list, I'll be happy to provide a full description
and send pictures.

Andrew Uprichard

From L1J1S at aol.com  Tue Nov 24 15:41:22 2009
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 17:41:22 EST
Subject: [TR] Tr-non-Thanksgiving
Message-ID: <c8c.50d1a37c.383dbb12@aol.com>

List, i want to wish everyone and their families a happy Thanksgiving  
holiday.Be careful not to overeat, and don't forget i didn't prewarn you about  
overeating when you go to  reach for the alka seltzer.    larry schwartz

From dmb993 at earthlink.net  Tue Nov 24 16:09:34 2009
From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 18:09:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
Message-ID: <4B0C67AE.3010805@earthlink.net>

Folks,

I'm in the process of painting a rusty frame, sorry not an LBC, but close...
POR15 is a contender, but I'm also open to alternatives that can be sprayed
with a HPLV spray gun. What is the current view on frame preparation and
painting? This is a vehicle that's in use, so sandblasting or dipping 
isn't feasible.
The best I can do is sand, wire brush, and degrease. In short, not all 
the rust
will be removed. I need a primer/paint system that can be applied over a 
shiny
steel bust rust-pitted surface?

Thanks,
David Brady
'68 TR250,
CD8124L

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov 24 17:51:52 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:51:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <4B0C67AE.3010805@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20091125005152982.RYQB27026@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> The best I can do is sand, wire brush, and degrease.

Just a thought, you might consider using some sort of phosphoric acid metal
prep to remove ALL the rust.  I've been using PPG DX579 (I think it is) on
my TR3 springs; but I just saw Readi-Strip Phosphoric Prep & Etch at my
local Home Depot.

Don't know how well it would spray, but the Rustoleum I used many years ago
was still in surprisingly good shape (where it didn't get rubbed off), so
I'm using it again.

Randall

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Tue Nov 24 19:40:56 2009
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 21:40:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <4B0C67AE.3010805@earthlink.net>
References: <4B0C67AE.3010805@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <09217EE484B3410687431C02EDF62778@DaveLaptop>

Hi Dave,
I agree with Randall. Clean the frame off as best as you can first. Pick up 
one of the phosphorus based metal coatings to stop the rust. I would suggest 
wiping down the treated metal with laquer thinner vs. water to stop the 
action of the phosphorous coating. As to paint, I used rustoleum red primer 
followed with rustoleum gloss black. But, that was because I had sandblasted 
the frame first.  POR-15 is good too but much more expensive and difficult 
to use. I did use their (POR-15) engine paint kit and it turned out looking 
like shiny black porcelain. Actually, if you purchase the engine kit, it 
comes with  a great cleaning solvent and their version of a phosphorous 
coating. There is probably enough of the prep materials to do a lot of your 
frame prep. One thing on the POR-15, plan on using all the paint once you 
open the can. I have never been able to reopen the can!
Dave Connitt
'67 Triumph TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "david brady" <dmb993 at earthlink.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 6:09 PM
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint


> Folks,
>
> I'm in the process of painting a rusty frame, sorry not an LBC, but 
> close...
> POR15 is a contender, but I'm also open to alternatives that can be 
> sprayed
> with a HPLV spray gun. What is the current view on frame preparation and
> painting? This is a vehicle that's in use, so sandblasting or dipping 
> isn't feasible.
> The best I can do is sand, wire brush, and degrease. In short, not all the 
> rust
> will be removed. I need a primer/paint system that can be applied over a 
> shiny
> steel bust rust-pitted surface?
>
> Thanks,
> David Brady
> '68 TR250,
> CD8124L
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 24 20:03:49 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 19:03:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <09217EE484B3410687431C02EDF62778@DaveLaptop>
References: <4B0C67AE.3010805@earthlink.net>
	<09217EE484B3410687431C02EDF62778@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <233486.24299.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

One thing on the POR-15, plan on using all the paint once you open the can. I
have never been able to reopen the can!

Dave
pull some cling film over the
can before putting the lid on. works over and over again.
also if you have a
mig/tig welder, fill the can with the inert gas before putting the lid on.
power off of course
Frank




________________________________
From: Dave
Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: david brady <dmb993 at earthlink.net>;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, November 24, 2009 6:40:56 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] OT: Frame Paint

Hi Dave,
I agree with Randall. Clean the frame off as
best as you can first. Pick up one of the phosphorus based metal coatings to
stop the rust. I would suggest wiping down the treated metal with laquer
thinner vs. water to stop the action of the phosphorous coating. As to paint,
I used rustoleum red primer followed with rustoleum gloss black. But, that was
because I had sandblasted the frame first.  POR-15 is good too but much more
expensive and difficult to use. I did use their (POR-15) engine paint kit and
it turned out looking like shiny black porcelain. Actually, if you purchase
the engine kit, it comes with  a great cleaning solvent and their version of a
phosphorous coating.. There is probably enough of the prep materials to do a
lot of your frame prep. One thing on the POR-15, plan on using all the paint
once you open the can. I have never been able to reopen the can!
Dave Connitt
'67 Triumph TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

----- Original Message
----- From: "david brady" <dmb993 at earthlink.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 6:09 PM
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint


>
Folks,
> 
> I'm in the process of painting a rusty frame, sorry not an LBC,
but close...
> POR15 is a contender, but I'm also open to alternatives that
can be sprayed
> with a HPLV spray gun. What is the current view on frame
preparation and
> painting? This is a vehicle that's in use, so sandblasting
or dipping isn't feasible.
> The best I can do is sand, wire brush, and
degrease. In short, not all the rust
> will be removed. I need a primer/paint
system that can be applied over a shiny
> steel bust rust-pitted surface?
> 
>
Thanks,
> David Brady
> '68 TR250,
> CD8124L
> 
>
_______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the
Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
>
http://www.team.net/archive 
This list supported in
part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
http://www.team.net/archive

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Tue Nov 24 20:09:37 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 22:09:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr-non-Thanksgiving
In-Reply-To: <c8c.50d1a37c.383dbb12@aol.com>
References: <c8c.50d1a37c.383dbb12@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301ca6d7c$b8aedbc0$2a0c9340$@net>

Thanks Larry same to you and your family 
Happy Thanksgiving to all you out there 
Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 5:41 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tr-non-Thanksgiving

List, i want to wish everyone and their families a happy Thanksgiving  
holiday.Be careful not to overeat, and don't forget i didn't prewarn you
about  
overeating when you go to  reach for the alka seltzer.    larry schwartz
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Nov 24 20:10:49 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 03:10:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <486889225.6690981259118281928.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1735826703.6693131259118649178.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I'm looking for something a little more immediate.

I have a 2004 truck and it has some surface rust on the frame in the rear.  Hey, this is Minnesota.  Factory frame paint seems very temporary hereabouts.  I don't care what it looks like down there, and it would take a lot of rust to make any difference, but I'd like to do something to keep the salt off it's proverbial back.  

I don't have a lot of time here, and I don't think I can buy Waxoyl locally.  

How about I get a whole bunch of cans of silicone spray and let it soak in to the rust?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "david brady" <dmb993 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> From: "david brady" <dmb993 at earthlink.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 5:09:34 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
>
> Folks,
> 
> I'm in the process of painting a rusty frame, sorry not an LBC, but
> close...
> POR15 is a contender, but I'm also open to alternatives that can be
> sprayed
> with a HPLV spray gun. What is the current view on frame preparation
> and
> painting? This is a vehicle that's in use, so sandblasting or dipping
> 
> isn't feasible.
> The best I can do is sand, wire brush, and degrease. In short, not all
> 
> the rust
> will be removed. I need a primer/paint system that can be applied over
> a 
> shiny
> steel bust rust-pitted surface?
> 
> Thanks,
> David Brady
> '68 TR250,
> CD8124L
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Nov 24 20:14:13 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 03:14:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <09217EE484B3410687431C02EDF62778@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <1205295370.6694011259118853894.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> One thing on the POR-15, plan on using all the paint once
> you 
> open the can. I have never been able to reopen the can!
> Dave Connitt

Did you put Saran Wrap in it?

I could swear I had a full can of POR-15 around here somewhere, but I can't find it.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Nov 24 20:40:12 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 19:40:12 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <1735826703.6693131259118649178.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091125034013467.XTEL22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> I don't have a lot of time here, and I don't think I can buy 
> Waxoyl locally.  

Lots of recipes for home-made Waxoyl on the Inet ... here's one:
http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/homemade_waxoyl_update/22473

"Toilet rings" may be a cheaper source of paraffin than the food-grade stuff
sold in your local supermarket (with the canning supplies).

Randall

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 24 20:40:18 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 21:40:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
References: <1205295370.6694011259118853894.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <80462437E52B48239966E6B470547428@ranteer.local>

put saran wrap between the lid and the can, put the whole thing in a baggie, 
and put it in the refridgerator.  it will last a long time that way

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt at fuse.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] OT: Frame Paint


>> One thing on the POR-15, plan on using all the paint once
>> you
>> open the can. I have never been able to reopen the can!
>> Dave Connitt
>
> Did you put Saran Wrap in it?

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 24 21:32:33 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 20:32:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] headlight trim rings TR3
Message-ID: <299648.10372.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

anyone know of an internet source that shows in picture form the difference in the headlight trim rings and how they should work?
i have two sets of differing trim rings (one so so--the other poor) and 3 sets of buckets. not sure of each of their origin.
having a hard time getting them to snap together.
thanks
Frank

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Tue Nov 24 22:02:27 2009
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 00:02:27 EST
Subject: [TR] J.A. Pearce Magna wheels for sale
Message-ID: <d37.5b16ea74.383e1463@aol.com>

Howdy Folks
 
I have just re-listed an extremely rare set of wheels on ebay - I had to  
re-list them because a scum-bag MG owner won the first auction and wouldn't 
pay.  These would look great on somebody's TR4 or TR250.
take a look - ebay item # 220516304402
If they don't sell they'll look okay on my TR6.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Nov 24 22:03:41 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 05:03:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <20091125034013467.XTEL22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <986217748.6726311259125421960.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote: 
> Lots of recipes for home-made Waxoyl on the Inet ... here's one:
> http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/homemade_waxoyl_update/22473
> 
> "Toilet rings" may be a cheaper source of paraffin than the food-grade
> stuff
> sold in your local supermarket (with the canning supplies).

I probably have a couple of unused beeswax toilet seals kicking around here.  How about them in mineral spirits?

Other than that:  Is there a reason that silicone spray is a bad idea?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Nov 24 22:49:28 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:49:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <986217748.6726311259125421960.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryv
	ille.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20091125034013467.XTEL22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
	<986217748.6726311259125421960.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091125054950.DDD6B18766A@autox.team.net>

Only if you don't plan to paint something for the next 5 years and 
not get major fisheyes in it...  Jack outlawed silicone spray after 
several issues trying to paint various things after its use in his Garage.

- Tony D

At 11:03 PM 11/24/2009, pethier at comcast.net wrote:
>Other than that:  Is there a reason that silicone spray is a bad idea?

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Nov 25 06:17:15 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 5:17:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <986217748.6726311259125421960.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091125081715.L5S5E.2808232.root@mp18>

---- pethier at comcast.net wrote: 

> Other than that:  Is there a reason that silicone spray is a bad idea?

When I worked in a body shop, we were forbidden to possess silicone spray, as paint would never stick to a surface that had seen silicone.  Or so I was told.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From wmpless at iprimus.ca  Wed Nov 25 07:03:40 2009
From: wmpless at iprimus.ca (Wiard Pless)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 09:03:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oiling frame
Message-ID: <4B0D393C.3060504@iprimus.ca>

Hi, you also may want to look at fluid-film

http://www.fluid-film.com/

In Canada available at NAPA stores.

Cheers Wiard

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 25 08:14:38 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 15:14:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <233486.24299.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <4B0C67AE.3010805@earthlink.net>,
	<09217EE484B3410687431C02EDF62778@DaveLaptop>,
	<233486.24299.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W4892620E7E039906B57237E59C0@phx.gbl>

>One thing on the POR-15, plan on using all the paint once you open the can.
I
>have never been able to reopen the can!

To make the can easy to reopen cover it with Saran Wrap before tapping the lid
on.


Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_M
FESRP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 25 09:07:02 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:07:02 -0800
Subject: [TR] headlight trim rings TR3
In-Reply-To: <299648.10372.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20091125160702591.JYZE13252@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> anyone know of an internet source that shows in picture form 
> the difference in the headlight trim rings and how they should work?

I don't, but they shouldn't be too hard to distinguish.  There are only 3
types :

TR2-3 used a screw through the bottom of the trim ring to secure it.  The
face of the bucket will have a small angle bracket at the bottom that is
threaded to receive the screw.

Early TR3A (less than 1000 of these as I recall, quite rare) used a clamp-on
trim ring.  The bucket has raised lips to either side of the bottom, for the
ring to clamp over.

All the others (through the end of TR6 production) used a clip-on trim ring.
The face of the bucket has a small, two-pronged spring clip at the bottom,
and the ring has a tab inside that is supposed to push between the prongs of
the spring clip.  Mine have always been too weak to just push on the trim
ring, so I have to stick the other end of the removal tool in between the
trim ring & bulb retaining ring, to push the tab through the clip.  These
later clip-on trim rings came in (at least) two different widths, but I
believe all TR3A/B originally had the wide (approx 1-3/8") ones.

All of the buckets had a lip at the top.  At one time anyway, replacement
buckets were supplied with lips on the sides (for the clamp-on rings); plus
both angle brackets (for early trim rings) and spring clips (for late trim
rings) that you could attach as needed.  The brackets & clips are also
available separately (Moss 156-010 and 156-020 respectively).

Randall

From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com  Wed Nov 25 09:35:46 2009
From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 11:35:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] headlight trim rings TR3
In-Reply-To: <20091125160702591.JYZE13252@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <OFA9D6D8E6.3F93B9B9-ON85257679.005AF047-85257679.005B2AC4@amphenol-tcs.com>

After trying to track some rings down for my 62 TR4, I actually used some
headlight trim rings from a Harley motorcycle.  Once you figure out the
diameter you need it is pretty easy to find some.   They were $5 a piece
and with a few simple modifications they work just fine...
Thanks,
John D


                                                                           
             "Randall"                                                     
             <tr3driver at ca.rr.                                             
             com>                                                       To 
             Sent by:                  "'Frank Fisher'"                    
             triumphs-bounces@         <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>,              
             autox.team.net            <triumphs at autox.team.net>           
                                                                        cc 
                                                                           
             11/25/2009 11:07                                      Subject 
             AM                        Re: [TR] headlight trim rings TR3   
                                                                           
                                                                           
                                                                           
                                                                           
                                                                           
                                                                           




> anyone know of an internet source that shows in picture form
> the difference in the headlight trim rings and how they should work?

I don't, but they shouldn't be too hard to distinguish.  There are only 3
types :

TR2-3 used a screw through the bottom of the trim ring to secure it.  The
face of the bucket will have a small angle bracket at the bottom that is
threaded to receive the screw.

Early TR3A (less than 1000 of these as I recall, quite rare) used a
clamp-on
trim ring.  The bucket has raised lips to either side of the bottom, for
the
ring to clamp over.

All the others (through the end of TR6 production) used a clip-on trim
ring.
The face of the bucket has a small, two-pronged spring clip at the bottom,
and the ring has a tab inside that is supposed to push between the prongs
of
the spring clip.  Mine have always been too weak to just push on the trim
ring, so I have to stick the other end of the removal tool in between the
trim ring & bulb retaining ring, to push the tab through the clip.  These
later clip-on trim rings came in (at least) two different widths, but I
believe all TR3A/B originally had the wide (approx 1-3/8") ones.

All of the buckets had a lip at the top.  At one time anyway, replacement
buckets were supplied with lips on the sides (for the clamp-on rings); plus
both angle brackets (for early trim rings) and spring clips (for late trim
rings) that you could attach as needed.  The brackets & clips are also
available separately (Moss 156-010 and 156-020 respectively).

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

______________________________________________________________________
This e-mail has been scanned by MCI Managed Email Content Service, using
Skeptic(tm) technology powered by MessageLabs. To report SPAM or other
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 25 10:39:57 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 09:39:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] headlight trim rings TR3
In-Reply-To: <OFA9D6D8E6.3F93B9B9-ON85257679.005AF047-85257679.005B2AC4@amphenol-tcs.com>
Message-ID: <20091125173957215.CDLB20286@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> After trying to track some rings down for my 62 TR4, I 
> actually used some
> headlight trim rings from a Harley motorcycle.  

I got some very nice reproduction wide rings from TRF a few months ago.
Snapped right on ... Cost more than $5 though.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 25 10:53:16 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 09:53:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <20091125081715.L5S5E.2808232.root@mp18>
Message-ID: <20091125175315768.CORS20286@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> When I worked in a body shop, we were forbidden to possess 
> silicone spray, as paint would never stick to a surface that 
> had seen silicone.  Or so I was told.

It is a definite problem; but there is a definite solution.  I use
Acryli-Clean (PPG DX330) but there are other products that probably work
just as well.  It's a purpose-made solvent, you just wipe the surface down
with it, wipe it off and let dry before painting.  Also works against
'waxes' that frequently contain silicone these days.

One of the interesting things about it, seems like no matter how well you've
cleaned the surface using other methods, it always removes a bit more dirt &
rust as well.  In theory it won't harm healthy paint, but it also removes
any oxidized paint on the surface.

However, "spray" silicone can be a worse problem, because it forms tiny
droplets that can hang in the air (like clouds) for many days.  You can also
get the same effect from using compressed air to blow out dirt that is
contaminated with DOT 5 brake fluid.  Good ventilation and time is the only
cure I've found (left the exhaust fan running overnight).

http://www.mar-k.com/painting_preparation.html

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Nov 25 10:55:02 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 09:55:02 -0800
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <986217748.6726311259125421960.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091125175502022.CQAQ20286@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Is there a reason that silicone spray is a bad idea?

My experience has been that it doesn't last very long on surfaces exposed to
the elements.

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Nov 25 12:07:47 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 19:07:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Oiling frame
In-Reply-To: <1398573649.6899531259175733391.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2051519883.6901871259176067209.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Wiard Pless" <wmpless at iprimus.ca> wrote:

> Hi, you also may want to look at fluid-film
> 
> http://www.fluid-film.com/

Have you used this stuff?
> 
> In Canada available at NAPA stores.

The NAPA store in in West Saint Paul has never heard of it, but they have it at a power-equipment place in Maplewood, as shown on the website.  Phone call confirmed.
> 
> Cheers Wiard

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Nov 25 12:42:20 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 19:42:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] J.A. Pearce Magna wheels for sale
In-Reply-To: <1089917353.6915071259177955587.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <192527736.6915981259178140693.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I had a set of 13" JAP Magna wheels that came on my Europa (Spitfire pattern).  In that 3.75" bolt pattern, the holes were a bit too close to the big countersink on the back side of the wheel.  All of these wheels were cracked from the bolt holes to the center hole.  Even so, a Lotus guy in California jumped at them when I told him I wanted 100 bucks each, just to get him to stop asking.  Since I think they are magnesium, I don't know who he will get to repair them.  I was very clear that the wheels were being sold not to be driven on without repair.

I expect these in the TR size (4.5") to be a lot stronger in that regard.  I also think they might fit 240Z cars.  

In any case, they are gorgeous, beautifully period, and could be a real bargain.  I'd snap them up myself, but Sue insists upon wire wheels for her TR4.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote:

> From: McGaheyRx at aol.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 11:02:27 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] J.A. Pearce Magna wheels for sale
>
> Howdy Folks
>  
> I have just re-listed an extremely rare set of wheels on ebay - I had
> to  
> re-list them because a scum-bag MG owner won the first auction and
> wouldn't 
> pay.  These would look great on somebody's TR4 or TR250.
> take a look - ebay item # 220516304402
> If they don't sell they'll look okay on my TR6.
>  
> Cheers,
> Jack Mc
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Nov 25 12:47:13 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:47:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
References: <20091125175315768.CORS20286@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <F59F5B86FF194A019C59059078D91EBD@yourpd3mh0abgs>

anti-fisheye additive is silicone.
just for fun facts to know and tell, you can use silicone spray instead of 
the canned liquid sold at paint shops.  add a spritz to your mix and mix it 
up before spraying.  no fisheye.
as pointed out by others, do not spray it around the unpainted car, though.
Best,
Ray


"Tolerance is the last virtue of a dying society".
-Aristotle
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] OT: Frame Paint


>> When I worked in a body shop, we were forbidden to possess
>> silicone spray, as paint would never stick to a surface that
>> had seen silicone.  Or so I was told.
>
> It is a definite problem; but there is a definite solution.  I use
> Acryli-Clean (PPG DX330) but there are other products that probably work
> just as well.  It's a purpose-made solvent, you just wipe the surface down
> with it, wipe it off and let dry before painting.  Also works against
> 'waxes' that frequently contain silicone these days.
>
> One of the interesting things about it, seems like no matter how well 
> you've
> cleaned the surface using other methods, it always removes a bit more dirt 
> &
> rust as well.  In theory it won't harm healthy paint, but it also removes
> any oxidized paint on the surface.
>
> However, "spray" silicone can be a worse problem, because it forms tiny
> droplets that can hang in the air (like clouds) for many days.  You can 
> also
> get the same effect from using compressed air to blow out dirt that is
> contaminated with DOT 5 brake fluid.  Good ventilation and time is the 
> only
> cure I've found (left the exhaust fan running overnight).
>
> http://www.mar-k.com/painting_preparation.html
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From auprichard at comcast.net  Wed Nov 25 13:04:15 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 15:04:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Unbelievable!
In-Reply-To: <192527736.6915981259178140693.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1089917353.6915071259177955587.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<192527736.6915981259178140693.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <76370342DB944C2090F81D78C0D9AC06@DCH6RFC1>

Some on the list may remember the problems I had trying to get a title for
my TR3 a year or so ago.  So when I bought my TR250, I made sure there was a
title (there was) and a bill of sale.

I paid $5000 for the car, but the State of Massachusetts thought otherwise.
They ignored the bill of sale and charged me for a $11,000 car !!

Andrew Uprichard

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Nov 25 13:15:03 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 14:15:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] Need to sell
References: <d2d.561e1d43.383d9c9d@aol.com>
	<6E5CAE946E994E28A00E6A066D43931A@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <5765CE5BE88B4237BB36872EB9C1BC92@yourpd3mh0abgs>

go with the euro bid...assuming it is high.  it should be, since the dollar 
is in the tank and going lower!
i just sold a tiger to a guy in switzerland for a nice price.  not only did 
he bring CASH as requested, he paid top dollar due to the strength of the 
swiss franc.
he containerized it at his cost and shipped it out....
Best,
Ray


"Tolerance is the last virtue of a dying society".
-Aristotle
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 4:01 PM
Subject: [TR] Need to sell


> List:
>
> I appreciate that this list is not primarily a forum to advertise and 
> sell,
> so I hope I don't offend.
>
> Having just bought a TR250, I need to sell my recently-restored TR3A (TS
> 51185L) to finance the restoration of CD 8433.  51185 is a fast-road TR3
> with numerous modifications - too many to list here - which will be
> expensive.  I have an offer from Europe, but selling locally in the US 
> will
> obviously save shipping.  I'll not be listing the car in the US (eBay or
> otherwise), so this will be my only mention of selling the car.  If anyone
> wants to contact me off-list, I'll be happy to provide a full description
> and send pictures.
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From eoot at citlink.net  Wed Nov 25 13:46:53 2009
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 15:46:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Unbelievable!
References: <1089917353.6915071259177955587.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><192527736.6915981259178140693.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<76370342DB944C2090F81D78C0D9AC06@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <6FB378CADA594BBE9226F3989E9E7EC7@MyComputski>

That certainly sounds like the usual approach in Taxachusettes


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 3:04 PM
Subject: [TR] Unbelievable!


> Some on the list may remember the problems I had trying to get a title for
> my TR3 a year or so ago.  So when I bought my TR250, I made sure there was 
> a
> title (there was) and a bill of sale.
>
> I paid $5000 for the car, but the State of Massachusetts thought 
> otherwise.
> They ignored the bill of sale and charged me for a $11,000 car !!
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Wed Nov 25 14:24:29 2009
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 16:24:29 EST
Subject: [TR] J.A. Pearce Magna wheels for sale
Message-ID: <d07.65808682.383efa8d@aol.com>

You're right! - these would fit 240Zs - why didn't i think about  that.
They are aluminum, rather hefty with no cracks - should be quite  strong
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
In a message dated 11/25/2009 2:54:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
pethier at comcast.net writes:

I had a  set of 13" JAP Magna wheels that came on my Europa (Spitfire 
pattern).   In that 3.75" bolt pattern, the holes were a bit too close to the big 
 countersink on the back side of the wheel.  All of these wheels were  
cracked from the bolt holes to the center hole.  Even so, a Lotus guy in  
California jumped at them when I told him I wanted 100 bucks each, just to get  
him to stop asking.  Since I think they are magnesium, I don't know who  he 
will get to repair them.  I was very clear that the wheels were being  sold 
not to be driven on without repair.

I expect these in the TR size  (4.5") to be a lot stronger in that regard.  
I also think they might fit  240Z cars.  

In any case, they are gorgeous, beautifully period,  and could be a real 
bargain.  I'd snap them up myself, but Sue insists  upon wire wheels for her 
TR4.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul  Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata  C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3  2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier  

----- McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote:

> From:  McGaheyRx at aol.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday,  November 24, 2009 11:02:27 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject:  [TR] J.A. Pearce Magna wheels for sale
>
> Howdy  Folks
>  
> I have just re-listed an extremely rare set of  wheels on ebay - I had
> to  
> re-list them because a  scum-bag MG owner won the first auction and
> wouldn't 
>  pay.  These would look great on somebody's TR4 or TR250.
> take a  look - ebay item # 220516304402
> If they don't sell they'll look okay  on my TR6.
>  
> Cheers,
> Jack Mc
> 
>  _______________________________________________
> 
> Support  Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list  supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>  http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
>  http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Nov 25 16:06:33 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 23:06:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <20091125034013467.XTEL22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1964064595.8140301259190393774.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>"Toilet rings" may be a cheaper source of paraffin than the food-grade stuff
>sold in your local supermarket (with the canning supplies).


Hmmm...B  Does this presuppose that the frame is in the toilet the moment
after application???



More seriously, two thoughts:



1) I used POR 15 on my frame.B  Results are outstanding.B  Under the car, it
doesn't matter whether it flattens over time. Rust prevention is superb 5
years and counting.



2) I haven't seen mentioned yet whether this is a box frame or I frame.B  If
box, you may want to consider a stop-rust treatment.B  I simply bought a
gallon jug of cheap oil, poured it into various openings, and twisted and
turnedB the frame to get a full coating inside.B  More complicated options are
available from others here, but my frame wasn't that bad to begin with, so
worked fine for me.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667)

New Hampshire, where the Triumph gods have yet to throw down snow.B  Whoo
hoo!

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Nov 25 16:14:14 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 23:14:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Unbelievable!
In-Reply-To: <76370342DB944C2090F81D78C0D9AC06@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <385067411.8142581259190854802.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I paid $5000 for the car, but the State of Massachusetts thought otherwise.
>They ignored the bill of sale and charged me for a $11,000 car !!


New Hampshire still has no sales tax, ...and no income tax.B B My property
taxes just went up because of my new almost completed garage, but thankfully I
have a wonderful pig farm next door (don't mind it a bit, was raised on a
farm).B  The tax assessor complained to my neighbor that he couldn't assess my
house, garage and property more because their pigs were next door.



Hah!B  And I get fresh eggs, bacon, and lean sausage whenever I want!B 



TR content:B  ...ehr, ...uhm, ...how about, ...car registration for a '59 TR3A
is $35????


Terry Smith

New Hampshire

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 25 16:50:12 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 17:50:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <1964064595.8140301259190393774.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20091125034013467.XTEL22957@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>,
	<1964064595.8140301259190393774.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W61517311E2082E6569AA24E19C0@phx.gbl>

Terry suggested...
I simply bought a gallon jug of cheap oil, poured it into various openings,
and twisted and turned the frame to get a full coating inside.

If I remember David's original post and Phil's fork of the thread, they are
both working with vehicles that are still in use.  I guess they could take
them out rock climbing. %^)



This would be a good suggestion for the cars we normally discuss here.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From dmb993 at earthlink.net  Wed Nov 25 18:58:34 2009
From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 20:58:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W4892620E7E039906B57237E59C0@phx.gbl>
References: <4B0C67AE.3010805@earthlink.net>,
	<09217EE484B3410687431C02EDF62778@DaveLaptop>,
	<233486.24299.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<BAY110-W4892620E7E039906B57237E59C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B0DE0CA.2040000@earthlink.net>

Thanks everyone for your input on this thread.

POR15 sounds like the way to go. I've used it in the past
and it's served me well. The vehicle I'm working on is a
Blue Bird Wanderlodge. I'm replacing the Charge Air Cooler
and this affords me an opportunity to detail the engine compartment
a bit. What bothers me a little about the POR15 process is the
Metal Ready step. This is basically phosphoric acid. I'm a little
concerned about embrittlement. The Huck Spin fasteners used
on the bus cannot be removed. What's your take on this issue.
Am I over-reacting?

Thanks,
David Brady
'68 TR250
CD8124L

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Nov 26 07:49:46 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:49:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] headlight trim rings TR3
In-Reply-To: <20091125160702591.JYZE13252@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
References: <299648.10372.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<20091125160702591.JYZE13252@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W4B393BE6E4E2D7DE02A51E59B0@phx.gbl>

> Mine have always been too weak to just push on the trim ring, so I have to
stick the other end of the removal tool
Is there really a removal tool or are you being fishesus?


Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Thu Nov 26 08:24:04 2009
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 10:24:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] OT: Frame Paint
In-Reply-To: <4B0DE0CA.2040000@earthlink.net>
References: <4B0C67AE.3010805@earthlink.net>, ,
	<09217EE484B3410687431C02EDF62778@DaveLaptop>, ,
	<233486.24299.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<BAY110-W4892620E7E039906B57237E59C0@phx.gbl>,
	<4B0DE0CA.2040000@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <COL119-W3877A478924F28D86EE702A59B0@phx.gbl>

> concerned about embrittlement. The Huck Spin fasteners used
> on the bus cannot be removed. What's your take on this issue.
> Am I over-reacting?


Yer Tom Saw can take out yer Huck Spins.

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Nov 26 14:16:15 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:16:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] headlight trim rings TR3
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W4B393BE6E4E2D7DE02A51E59B0@phx.gbl>
References: <299648.10372.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20091125160702591.JYZE13252@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<BAY110-W4B393BE6E4E2D7DE02A51E59B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911261316sd62827cyd0181fbacea92b88@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/26/09, tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Is there really a removal tool or are you being fishesus?
>

Moss p/n 386-080:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=386-080&WebCatalogID=0

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 26 21:52:11 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 20:52:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] headlight trim rings TR3
In-Reply-To: <4FF3A9A3902D43F7B3530F89F9673D0E@bboffice>
References: <20091125160702591.JYZE13252@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<OFA9D6D8E6.3F93B9B9-ON85257679.005AF047-85257679.005B2AC4@amphenol-tcs.com>
	<4FF3A9A3902D43F7B3530F89F9673D0E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <B90073B48CBA4806969AC017DC5E21D7@Meislaptop>

> Am I trying to fit two mis-matched types?

Sounds like it to me, Bill, but I've only seen the split rims in the books.
Your commission number indicates you should have the later clip-on rings.

Look at the top of the buckets, to either side of center.  You should see
there the lips that the ring fits over.  I believe (not certain), that the
'split' buckets should have similar lips near the bottom (again on either
side).

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Nov 26 22:08:34 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 21:08:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] headlight trim rings TR3
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W4B393BE6E4E2D7DE02A51E59B0@phx.gbl>
References: <299648.10372.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<20091125160702591.JYZE13252@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<BAY110-W4B393BE6E4E2D7DE02A51E59B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <547BC624CCB04432B06E490117E8D2BE@Meislaptop>

> Is there really a removal tool or are you being fishesus?

Supposed to be in the factory tool kit, as I recall.  At any rate, I
certainly have one that I made myself.  Flat strip of metal perhaps 4-5"
long and 1/2" wide, with one end turned up into a lip that can be forced
between the bottom of the trim ring & the gasket between it and the body.  A
sideways tug will lever the tab out of the clip, so the ring can be removed.

ISTR I'm still using the one I made from an old hacksaw blade (with the
teeth ground off), but I've read that an IO port cover from a PC will work.

And yes, I do have to use the other end of it to install the trim rings.  If
I try to just bang them into place, the tab bends instead of going through
the "teeth" on the clips.

Randall

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Nov 27 18:23:51 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:23:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] Unbelievable!
References: <1089917353.6915071259177955587.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><192527736.6915981259178140693.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<76370342DB944C2090F81D78C0D9AC06@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <44C4054E7E844DB3BB8BFFDC89654331@yourpd3mh0abgs>

uncontrolled spending engenders uncontrolled taxation.
Best,
Ray



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 2:04 PM
Subject: [TR] Unbelievable!


> Some on the list may remember the problems I had trying to get a title for
> my TR3 a year or so ago.  So when I bought my TR250, I made sure there was 
> a
> title (there was) and a bill of sale.
>
> I paid $5000 for the car, but the State of Massachusetts thought 
> otherwise.
> They ignored the bill of sale and charged me for a $11,000 car !!
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From cak at dimebank.com  Sat Nov 28 16:36:14 2009
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2009 15:36:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] wtb: 3.89 diff from gt6+ or spit 1500
Message-ID: <4B11B3EE.3040909@dimebank.com>

The ring/pinion in mine is trashed, and I suspect it's easier to find a complete unit than just the 
gears. I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area, and would be more than happy to drive a few hours to pick 
up rather than have either side deal with packing and shipping a 50-60 pound lump.

Thanks,
chris

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Sun Nov 29 07:19:40 2009
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 09:19:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Ignition and coils
Message-ID: <380-2200911029141940453@earthlink.net>

Hello,

Recently I wrote a reply to this thread which stated that using a 12V Lucas Sport coil with a Pertronix Ignitor ignition trigger in a TR6 would cause the current through the Pertronix to exceed the maximum allowable value. This was mathematically correct, based on the information available from the manufacturer of the Pertronix at the time I wrote my post.

My message was based on information posted on Pertronix's web site, which stated that the maximum current permitted in a 6-cylinder car was 4.0 amps. I have subsequently talked to "Rob" at Pertronix tech support, who was surprised that this information was still on their web site. He states that 3.0 ohms of resistance is a permissible value for a coil used with the Ignitor, and that 4.0 Amps of current is no longer the recommended maximum current for 6-cylinder cars. He indicated that the web site would be corrected shortly.

Using a low-resistance "HEI" coil (typically 1.2 to 1.5 ohms) will fry your Pertronix. Leaving the ignition on for long periods with the engine not running will also damage it.  Using a Lucas Sport Coil will not.

I regret that I posted incorrect information.

Cheers, Tom

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Nov 29 08:39:29 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 07:39:29 -0800
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Ignition and coils
In-Reply-To: <380-2200911029141940453@earthlink.net>
References: <380-2200911029141940453@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <DE4096F7EA21499FAF3B5DE640738115@Meislaptop>

> I regret that I posted incorrect information.

Not incorrect, Tom, only incomplete.  The "Lucas Sports coil" comes in both
3.0 and 1.5 ohm flavors, to suit cars either without or with a ballast
resistor.  Using the 1.5 ohm variant with a Pertronix but without a ballast
resistor will lead to the Pertronix overheating with probably permanent
damage.

Some suppliers list only the 3 ohm variant; but the other one does exist and
is available from some sources.  Eg,
http://tinyurl.com/ykflbcc

Randall

From tr_man at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 29 13:40:44 2009
From: tr_man at hotmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 12:40:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR-2 brake/clutch lines
In-Reply-To: <wFDxchdpq000615ba@bay0-omc4-s3.bay0.hotmail.com>
References: <wFDxchdpq000615ba@bay0-omc4-s3.bay0.hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY116-W456C7E1A0D4D8EAD086F12F4980@phx.gbl>

Hello out there,



    I'm hoping that someone can help me with the master cylinder brake line
and clutch lines.These will be the long ones that attach to the master
cylinder. I do not have them and can't seem to find anyone that sells them. So
I can buy / burrow some, so I can get them made in stainless steel. These
would be for a 54 Tr-2 long door, right hand drive car. I tried classic tube ,
oss,etc no luck.





thanks, Mike



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From tr6parts at charter.net  Sun Nov 29 14:41:58 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 16:41:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Insulation
Message-ID: <7FCDBF74DF684F77865980ADAB61DAD8@Alan>

Has anyone used this sound deading insulation?

http://www.b-quiet.com/brownbread.html

Seems very reasonable.

Al

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Sun Nov 29 15:49:39 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 16:49:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] British car "Cottage Industry" list
Message-ID: <ACABF83A07674A90A025F00D5647027E@KARL>

Here's a link I just received, to an interesting site that lists numerous
small suppliers of unique British car parts, accessories, and services.  Lots
of Triumph-specific guys in the list, as well as other good stuff.  Some US,
some British-based.

http://www.britcot.com/Index.html

Karl



Indecision may or may not be my problem...
 -- Jimmy Buffett

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Nov 29 17:33:47 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 16:33:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] MOSS Tank Sealer Removal - TR3A
Message-ID: <846639.12030.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     12 years ago I slushed my TR3A gas tank with the white tank coating that
MOSS sells. Before sloshing, I derusted the tank with muriatic acid, then
flushed out with water/baking soda to neutralize the acid, and then rinsed
that with lacquer thinner so it was bright, clean and shiny. Now twelve years
later the coating is coming off in various locations and it plugged the fuel
line and left my wife stranded on a country road in the dark. Not happy.     I
want to get the MOSS sealer out and coat it with a coating by KBS. I used it
on my Mercedes tank and the stuff is awesome.
     http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Auto-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Kit_p_34.html
     Anyway, I tried lacquer thinner and that didn't do anything to the
sealer. I tried muriatic acid and it discolored the coating and kind of made
it bubble/wrinkle up in places. I don't want to try any more acid because I
think that it might eat through the tank somewhere.     Does anyone know how
to get the stuff out of the tank?     I might try a radiator shop to see if
their boil-out tank will take it out. It took out the factory coating in my
Mercedes.     Likewise, Peter Arakelian! Tell MOSS that your tank sealer
doesn't cut it and you should sell KBS coatings instead.     Anyone on the
list have a spare TR3A fuel tank that they would sell for a reasonable price?
     Bill in Tehachapi

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Nov 29 18:06:18 2009
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 20:06:18 EST
Subject: [TR] Tr- gauge repair
Message-ID: <c56.6a5fcca3.3844748a@aol.com>

List, can someone rec' a place to have some gauges repaired in the  
northeast.  larry shwartz

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 29 18:26:58 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 01:26:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] Washers?
Message-ID: <BAY110-W44E88780911E82E9C0F8F0E5970@phx.gbl>

Hi Listerenes,

I am in need of some specialty washers.  My ramblings through McMaster-Carr
have not produced anything close.  I am wondering if anyone on the list may
know of a source?

Specifications:

I.D.  1.250
O.D. 1.500
Thickness .10 - .160
Material  Hardened steel grade 8.

Thanks for all your help.

Best regards,

Tom


_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: It works the way you want. Learn more.
http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMT
AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen:112009v2

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Nov 29 21:35:47 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 20:35:47 -0800
Subject: [TR] Pertronix coils
References: <mailman.3.1259521201.24986.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000901ca7176$967610c0$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com>

Application chart shows coil resistance and part number.
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/chart.aspx
Regards,
Bob

> Hello,
>
> Recently I wrote a reply to this thread which stated that using a 12V
Lucas Sport coil with a Pertronix Ignitor ignition trigger in a TR6 would
cause the current through the Pertronix to exceed the maximum allowable
value. This was mathematically correct, based on the information available
from the manufacturer of the Pertronix at the time I wrote my post.
>
> My message was based on information posted on Pertronix's web site, which
stated that the maximum current permitted in a 6-cylinder car was 4.0 amps.
I have subsequently talked to "Rob" at Pertronix tech support, who was
surprised that this information was still on their web site. He states that
3.0 ohms of resistance is a permissible value for a coil used with the
Ignitor, and that 4.0 Amps of current is no longer the recommended maximum
current for 6-cylinder cars. He indicated that the web site would be
corrected shortly.
>
> Using a low-resistance "HEI" coil (typically 1.2 to 1.5 ohms) will fry
your Pertronix. Leaving the ignition on for long periods with the engine not
running will also damage it.  Using a Lucas Sport Coil will not.
>
> I regret that I posted incorrect information.
>
> Cheers, Tom






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447)
Database version: 6.13800
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From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Nov 29 18:43:41 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 17:43:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Aluminum Gas Tanks
Message-ID: <703834.53258.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am still kicking around replacemnet fuel tanks because of my sloshing
coating coming off in my existing TR3A fuel tank.     I looked on Ebay and
there is a guy in San Diego making aluminum replacement tanks. Has anyone on
the list bought one of those from him?      By the time I get the old coating
out of my existing tank (radiator shop boil out) or buy a used replacement
tank and then slush it with KBS coatings, I will be about 65% of the to buying
an aluminum tank (which will never rust).     Just wondering.     TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 29 19:19:10 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 20:19:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] MOSS Tank Sealer Removal - TR3A
In-Reply-To: <846639.12030.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <846639.12030.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W35AB5C04F4742AEAD584A4E1970@phx.gbl>

Didn't we have this discussion a few months ago?

I do not remember what the solution was. %^(

If I remeber correctly, the problem was that the coating did not like the
gasohol.



Bill,

Have you search the archives?

The URL is at the bottom of all the messages from this list.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 16:33:47 -0800
> From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] MOSS Tank Sealer Removal - TR3A
>
> 12 years ago I slushed my TR3A gas tank with the white tank coating that
> MOSS sells. Before sloshing, I derusted the tank with muriatic acid, then
> flushed out with water/baking soda to neutralize the acid, and then rinsed
> that with lacquer thinner so it was bright, clean and shiny. Now twelve
years
> later the coating is coming off in various locations and it plugged the
fuel
> line and left my wife stranded on a country road in the dark. Not happy. I
> want to get the MOSS sealer out and coat it with a coating by KBS. I used
it
> on my Mercedes tank and the stuff is awesome.
> http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Auto-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Kit_p_34.html
> Anyway, I tried lacquer thinner and that didn't do anything to the
> sealer. I tried muriatic acid and it discolored the coating and kind of
made
> it bubble/wrinkle up in places. I don't want to try any more acid because I
> think that it might eat through the tank somewhere. Does anyone know how
> to get the stuff out of the tank? I might try a radiator shop to see if
> their boil-out tank will take it out. It took out the factory coating in my
> Mercedes. Likewise, Peter Arakelian! Tell MOSS that your tank sealer
> doesn't cut it and you should sell KBS coatings instead. Anyone on the
> list have a spare TR3A fuel tank that they would sell for a reasonable
price?
> Bill in Tehachapi

From triumph.driver at gmail.com  Sun Nov 29 20:16:48 2009
From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 22:16:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Washers?
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W44E88780911E82E9C0F8F0E5970@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-W44E88780911E82E9C0F8F0E5970@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C28B2348EBA848289ED2EF8413AC8438@chuck>

Tom,

I don't know if they have what you are looking for but here's another source
for washers:

Boker's Free 2009 Washer Catalog  http://www.bokers.com/ntbe

Hope this helps!

Chuck White
Xenia, OH
1965 TR4A IRS
1970 GT6+ 

-----Original Message-----
From: On Behalf Of tom white
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 8:27 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Washers?

Hi Listerenes,

I am in need of some specialty washers.  My ramblings through McMaster-Carr
have not produced anything close.  I am wondering if anyone on the list may
know of a source?

Specifications:

I.D.  1.250
O.D. 1.500
Thickness .10 - .160
Material  Hardened steel grade 8.

Thanks for all your help.

Best regards,

Tom

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Nov 29 21:00:45 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 23:00:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr- gauge repair
In-Reply-To: <c56.6a5fcca3.3844748a@aol.com>
References: <c56.6a5fcca3.3844748a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D0C8E8445A6E4C0D8A17E63F4B295080@BobPC>

Larry............ I'm in Connecticut but why does it have to be in the 
northeast? A number of the TR6 guys have had their gauges calibrated by West 
Valley Instruments in California. Morris will typically turn them around in 
about 10 days. This is not a refurbishing of the gauges to concours like new 
condition but it is a thorough cleaning and calibration to stock. Check out 
my link with the West Valley info. Morris only does British gauges and di 
both my speedo and tach. The best advice I can give you is that if the 
repair shop doesn't ask about the speedo/tach cable, look for another shop. 
The cable dimensions/accuracy is as critical as the gauge. What are you 
looking to have done?

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 8:06 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tr- gauge repair

> List, can someone rec' a place to have some gauges repaired in the
> northeast.  larry shwartz
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 30 07:18:52 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 07:18:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Aluminum Gas Tanks
In-Reply-To: <703834.53258.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <703834.53258.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0911300618y153c53cg6d96774629417658@mail.gmail.com>

On 11/29/09, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:
> I am still kicking around replacemnet fuel tanks because of my sloshing
> coating coming off in my existing TR3A fuel tank.     I looked on Ebay and
> there is a guy in San Diego making aluminum replacement tanks. Has anyone on
> the list bought one of those from him?

That would be Jorge.  I have not used his tank though I did get a TR3A
bumper from him and thought it well done.

The first bumper he sent me got scratched in shipping (damage to the
packing that went right thru to the chrome) and he took it back and
sent another covering shipping both ways -- if that tells you
something.

Geo

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Nov 30 08:21:59 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 10:21:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] Washers?
References: <BAY110-W44E88780911E82E9C0F8F0E5970@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <608597E416754D45A806A1D2A4B28C7E@Edscomputer>

List,

What vendor has the best price on Dayton chrome wire wheels?

Thanks,

Ed Woods

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Nov 30 08:27:13 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 10:27:13 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
Message-ID: <d3f.51abe7d2.38453e51@aol.com>

Guys,
 
I walked out Friday morning and it was cracked from  just below the top 
screw, driver's side all the way to the bottom. Nice  clean break. Disturbing 
thing is that the ole lady TR3b has  cracked her windscreen in the same spot 
a few years back. Like the exact  same thing.  No warning, can't say any 
pressure was put on it. 
 
Last time it was the nite before a TRA  Concours.  Went down the morning of 
and there it was, cracked! This  time same thing.  The only thing I can 
think of is I did warm up the garage  the day before to work in there to 68 
from around 32 degrees and let it cool  down again that nite.   What am I doing 
wrong?  I have heard of  the screws being to long and chipping the glass 
but I was real careful with  them.  
Woe is me,
Darrell

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Nov 30 09:11:45 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 11:11:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels
References: <BAY110-W44E88780911E82E9C0F8F0E5970@phx.gbl>
	<608597E416754D45A806A1D2A4B28C7E@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <E309A002F0FF441FABB082FBFEAB5F62@Edscomputer>

List,

What vendor has the best price on Dayton chrome wire wheels?

Thanks,

Ed Woods

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Nov 30 09:42:13 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 10:42:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
In-Reply-To: <d3f.51abe7d2.38453e51@aol.com>
References: <d3f.51abe7d2.38453e51@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W435BC5CDE9ECDCFFA650A1E1970@phx.gbl>

Darrell,

Is it possible that one or more of the screws is a little too long.  When I
was looking at replacing my windsheld, that was one of the warnings I got.
Maybe the temp changes caused the glass to come in contact with one and
crack.


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> From: TR250Driver at aol.com
> Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 10:27:13 -0500
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
>
> Guys,
>
> I walked out Friday morning and it was cracked from just below the top
> screw, driver's side all the way to the bottom. Nice clean break. Disturbing
> thing is that the ole lady TR3b has cracked her windscreen in the same spot
> a few years back. Like the exact same thing. No warning, can't say any
> pressure was put on it.
>
> Last time it was the nite before a TRA Concours. Went down the morning of
> and there it was, cracked! This time same thing. The only thing I can
> think of is I did warm up the garage the day before to work in there to 68
> from around 32 degrees and let it cool down again that nite. What am I doing
> wrong? I have heard of the screws being to long and chipping the glass
> but I was real careful with them.
> Woe is me,
> Darrell
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Mon Nov 30 10:13:05 2009
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 09:13:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Aluminum Gas Tanks
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0911300618y153c53cg6d96774629417658@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <544676.45152.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I purchased his AL tank a couple of years ago for my TR2 restoration but have
not yet installed.  Tank looks very well made and only diff from original is
in the side panels with the "pressings" reversed.
Dan

--- On Mon, 11/30/09, Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Aluminum Gas Tanks
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Cc: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, November 30, 2009, 9:18 AM


On 11/29/09, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:
> I am still kicking around replacemnet fuel tanks because of my sloshing
> coating coming off in my existing TR3A fuel tank.     I looked on Ebay and
> there is a guy in San Diego making aluminum replacement tanks. Has anyone
on
> the list bought one of those from him?

That would be Jorge.  I have not used his tank though I did get a TR3A
bumper from him and thought it well done.

The first bumper he sent me got scratched in shipping (damage to the
packing that went right thru to the chrome) and he took it back and
sent another covering shipping both ways -- if that tells you
something.

Geo
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Nov 30 10:30:01 2009
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 09:30:01 -0800
Subject: [TR] MOSS Tank Sealer Removal - TR3A
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F1079C39E@kb1.mossmotors.com>

>12 years ago I slushed my TR3A gas tank with the white tank coating
that MOSS sells. Before sloshing, I derusted the tank with muriatic
acid, then flushed out with water/baking soda to neutralize the acid,
and then rinsed that with lacquer thinner so it was bright, clean and
shiny...Likewise, Peter Arakelian! Tell MOSS that your tank sealer
doesn't cut it
First - did you prep it properly?  Vendor recommends a heavy duty
cleaner, then an etcher to promote adhesion.  Like KBS does.
Removal - use MEK, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or take to a redi strip place to
have it boiled out.

And this formula is alcohol resistant.

Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov 30 10:53:56 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 09:53:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
In-Reply-To: <d3f.51abe7d2.38453e51@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20091130175356601.KNHV8989@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> it was cracked from  just 
> below the top screw, 

Has to mean that something was touching the glass, most likely that screw.
Maybe not hard enough to chip it at first, but differential expansion yadda
yadda.  I'll bet you can find evidence of damage to the tape that cushions
the glass, if you look closely enough.

Randall

From tr_man at hotmail.com  Mon Nov 30 11:34:33 2009
From: tr_man at hotmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 10:34:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] hep with brake/clutch line
Message-ID: <BAY116-W28028C80B49458722F9DF9F4970@phx.gbl>

         Well I am looking for some help with the brake and clutch lines that
run from the master cylinder on a 54 TR-2,left hand drive. I wrote this
yesterday, but put right hand drive. I did try and correct it, but for some
reason they wouldn't post. Anyways, I can buy / burrow what ever will be
easiest so I can have them made in stainless steel. I've tried Classic Tube,
Moss, etc to no avail. I don't have anything to start with. Anyone out there
have any ideas?





Mike

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
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From tr_man at hotmail.com  Mon Nov 30 11:44:49 2009
From: tr_man at hotmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 10:44:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
Message-ID: <BAY116-W188E330B37FA918F5C0BEF4970@phx.gbl>

     I have a slightly modified TR-250 that has run great with the Zenith
Stromberg carbs. Only problem is I have always had problems getting them to
the proper mixture settings. Its like one carb will be running lean and the
other rich. I've checked the intake and carbs mountings. So I decided to put
on HS6 SU's. Found out this is far from simple. I've modified the linkage to
work, still not happy with the throttle return springs. Put on different float
bowls at the recommendation of a carb expert from the east coast, and yes the
adaptors are in to make the bowls level ( they are angled on a 4a). Long story
short, the car doesn't have as much power as it used to, its like its not
getting just quite enough gas. I know I have the mixtures correct. I debating
about going back to the Strombergs,..in other words..I'm getting
frustrated...any thoughts from people out there?



Mike

_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: I wanted simpler, now it's simpler. I'm a rock star.
http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=PID2472
7::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:112009

From rdowdy at verizon.net  Mon Nov 30 12:25:45 2009
From: rdowdy at verizon.net (rdowdy at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 13:25:45 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Dynamat
Message-ID: <238749333.199618.1259609146038.JavaMail.root@vms246.mailsrvcs.net>

/CjNZwX: Permission denied

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Mon Nov 30 12:26:45 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 14:26:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-W188E330B37FA918F5C0BEF4970@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY116-W188E330B37FA918F5C0BEF4970@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <a38798b30911301126r311aa54brfcdb65f4a1e5d9fd@mail.gmail.com>

Are you using stock needles? You can only set richness at idle, effectively.
Needle taper determines the off-idle richness. IIRC, my SU's (H6) have RH as
the stock needle.

You should expect all the power you had from the Strombergs, and more if one
was either rich or lean before.

Brian

On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 1:44 PM, Mike H <tr_man at hotmail.com> wrote:

>     I have a slightly modified TR-250 that has run great with the Zenith
> Stromberg carbs. Only problem is I have always had problems getting them to
> the proper mixture settings. Its like one carb will be running lean and the
> other rich. I've checked the intake and carbs mountings. So I decided to
> put
> on HS6 SU's. Found out this is far from simple. I've modified the linkage
> to
> work, still not happy with the throttle return springs. Put on different
> float
> bowls at the recommendation of a carb expert from the east coast, and yes
> the
> adaptors are in to make the bowls level ( they are angled on a 4a). Long
> story
> short, the car doesn't have as much power as it used to, its like its not
> getting just quite enough gas. I know I have the mixtures correct. I
> debating
> about going back to the Strombergs,..in other words..I'm getting
> frustrated...any thoughts from people out there?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows 7: I wanted simpler, now it's simpler. I'm a rock star.
>
> http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=PID2472
> 7::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:112009
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov 30 12:33:16 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 11:33:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] hep with brake/clutch line
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-W28028C80B49458722F9DF9F4970@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20091130193316339.ZEYN5818@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Anyone out there
> have any ideas?

The brake side is available from Moss in Cunifer, part of the set 588-608.
You might also try contacting Automec in the UK (who I think supplies the
sets Moss sells), to see if they will sell you just the section you need
(and the clutch side).

Or, buy a coil of Cunifer and bend some up yourself.  You'll need some
tools, like a double flaring tool, and probably some practice time to
develop the skills to use them but it's not hard to do.  Cunifer bends and
forms MUCH easier than SS.

Randall

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Nov 30 12:55:35 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 11:55:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
In-Reply-To: <d3f.51abe7d2.38453e51@aol.com>
References: <d3f.51abe7d2.38453e51@aol.com>
Message-ID: <a06240800c739d31ac011@[192.168.2.2]>

I am sure to be corrected if mistaken, but I believe the two screws 
on the windshield stanchion are unique, and of different lengths. 
Also if the frame has had "trauma" at any point and is not perfectly 
/ correctly "bowed" it will put tension on the glass and it will 
break easily ...

Good Luck

>Guys,
>
>I walked out Friday morning and it was cracked from  just below the top
>screw, driver's side all the way to the bottom. Nice  clean break. Disturbing
>thing is that the ole lady TR3b has  cracked her windscreen in the same spot
>a few years back. Like the exact  same thing.  No warning, can't say any
>pressure was put on it.
>
>Last time it was the nite before a TRA  Concours.  Went down the morning of
>and there it was, cracked! This  time same thing.  The only thing I can
>think of is I did warm up the garage  the day before to work in there to 68
>from around 32 degrees and let it cool  down again that nite.   What 
>am I doing
>wrong?  I have heard of  the screws being to long and chipping the glass
>but I was real careful with  them. 
>Woe is me,
>Darrell


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Nov 30 13:20:35 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 13:20:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Insulation
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4415.1259599353.11771.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4415.1259599353.11771.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C914DC86-0F16-4766-9B14-71E40153ED24@telus.net>

Several people on the Vanagon list have and rate it highly. The VW  
Vanagon is a large noisy tin box. They've installed it in doors, on  
floors etc. etc. to quiet things down with good results.



> Subject: [TR] Insulation
>
>
> Has anyone used this sound deading insulation?
>
> http://www.b-quiet.com/brownbread.html
>
> Seems very reasonable.

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Mon Nov 30 15:23:59 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 22:23:59 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
Message-ID: <1164BA4693EB4593A0176E2E06BB989B@artvac412870f0>

 Hi Brian,
    Yes, the Spitfire Float Bowls are essential in getting it right. I did
 the HS6 Conversion on my TR6, and it made a world of difference in 
performance and simplicity,
 Fuel  Mileage. Once You get your linkage situation sorted You'll be happy 
You made the change.
My HS6's started life on a Volvo P1800. So after the Float Bowls which 
needed to be turned vertical,
and the Linkage problems were sorted,the jetting was all that remained. As 
long as
 your Jet is of the larger variety for the HS6's,all that's left is your 
Needles. Moss includes the (BAG)
Needle profile with their Conversions. I run (BAE) if I remember correctly.
   I run them with the low compression late Head, Non EGR Manifold and K&N
 A/Filters, with Pertronix and Lucas Sports Coil.
 I might play with the BAE Needles in the future, I'll have to look at the
 comparitive Needle Profiles. You could always call Joe Curto
 and get a couple sets of Needles to try out. Other than having a pair of
 Synchrometers and checking your Plug readings You'll be happy
 if they're good Carbs.
 Regards,
 Wayne Lee
 75 TR6 (Daily Driver till next week)
 64 TR4  (Future Project)

> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Brian Jones" <tr4zest at gmail.com>
> Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 2:26 PM
> To: "Mike H" <tr_man at hotmail.com>; "email list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?
>
>> Are you using stock needles? You can only set richness at idle, 
>> effectively.
>> Needle taper determines the off-idle richness. IIRC, my SU's (H6) have RH 
>> as
>> the stock needle.
>>
>> You should expect all the power you had from the Strombergs, and more if 
>> one
>> was either rich or lean before.
>>
>> Brian
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 1:44 PM, Mike H <tr_man at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>     I have a slightly modified TR-250 that has run great with the Zenith
>>> Stromberg carbs. Only problem is I have always had problems getting them 
>>> to
>>> the proper mixture settings. Its like one carb will be running lean and 
>>> the
>>> other rich. I've checked the intake and carbs mountings. So I decided to
>>> put
>>> on HS6 SU's. Found out this is far from simple. I've modified the 
>>> linkage

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Nov 30 16:28:27 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 23:28:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Kitty Litter
In-Reply-To: <a06240800c739d31ac011@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <291627276.9423021259623707210.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Word to the wise from someone who has done dumb things in the past, this not
being the worst of them, I'm afraid.



TR3A leaks oil in the parking garage at work.B  Put down a mat and sprinkled
with kitty litter.B  I carry the kitty litter in a plastic jar in the trunk.



Somehow the lid came unscrewed allowing the kitty litter to spill all over the
trunk.B  Before I could vacuum it up, it rained and the trunk got wet inside.



Uhm...didB you know that kitty litter turns to mud????



I believe there are two scientific terms for this.B  OneB is called
"saturation."B 



The other is..."duh."



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Mon Nov 30 16:44:53 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 23:44:53 +0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <1164BA4693EB4593A0176E2E06BB989B@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <001636283ae861cd3504799f3ac0@google.com>

Wayne,

There is a lot of info online. Try this, for example:

http://www.winsu.co.uk/
You need windows, and I'm on a Mac, but by its blurb, it could help you.

Also: http://www.teglerizer.com/suneedledb/index.html

I don't know if this helps, but its a well illustrated piece on switching  
from Z to SU on a Spit.
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/75w_carbswap.htm

Brian

On Dec 30, 2009 5:23pm, Wayne Lee <wayne at motorcarriage.com> wrote:
> Hi Brian,

> Yes, the Spitfire Float Bowls are essential in getting it right. I did

> the HS6 Conversion on my TR6, and it made a world of difference in  
> performance and simplicity,

> Fuel Mileage. Once You get your linkage situation sorted You'll be happy  
> You made the change.

> My HS6's started life on a Volvo P1800. So after the Float Bowls which  
> needed to be turned vertical,

> and the Linkage problems were sorted,the jetting was all that remained.  
> As long as

> your Jet is of the larger variety for the HS6's,all that's left is your  
> Needles. Moss includes the (BAG)

> Needle profile with their Conversions. I run (BAE) if I remember  
> correctly.

> I run them with the low compression late Head, Non EGR Manifold and K&N

> A/Filters, with Pertronix and Lucas Sports Coil.

> I might play with the BAE Needles in the future, I'll have to look at the

> comparitive Needle Profiles. You could always call Joe Curto

> and get a couple sets of Needles to try out. Other than having a pair of

> Synchrometers and checking your Plug readings You'll be happy

> if they're good Carbs.

> Regards,

> Wayne Lee

> 75 TR6 (Daily Driver till next week)

> 64 TR4 (Future Project)




> --------------------------------------------------

> From: "Brian Jones" tr4zest at gmail.com>

> Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 2:26 PM

> To: "Mike H" tr_man at hotmail.com>; "email list" triumphs at autox.team.net>

> Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?




> Are you using stock needles? You can only set richness at idle,  
> effectively.

> Needle taper determines the off-idle richness. IIRC, my SU's (H6) have RH  
> as

> the stock needle.



> You should expect all the power you had from the Strombergs, and more if  
> one

> was either rich or lean before.



> Brian



> On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 1:44 PM, Mike H tr_man at hotmail.com> wrote:




> I have a slightly modified TR-250 that has run great with the Zenith

> Stromberg carbs. Only problem is I have always had problems getting them  
> to

> the proper mixture settings. Its like one carb will be running lean and  
> the

> other rich. I've checked the intake and carbs mountings. So I decided to

> put

> on HS6 SU's. Found out this is far from simple. I've modified the linkage




> _______________________________________________



> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html



> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register

> http://www.vtr.org





> Triumphs at autox.team.net

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs





> http://www.team.net/archive

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Mon Nov 30 16:56:01 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 23:56:01 +0000
Subject: [TR] Kitty Litter
In-Reply-To: <291627276.9423021259623707210.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0016e6d26d583370a304799f629c@google.com>

Terry,
We had a thread about absorbant mats a while back. They were quite  
expensive, I thought.

I found these, recently:

http://www.sassafety.com/store/shopexd.asp?id=293

Roll it up into its own packaging to store in the boot. 17" x 19" should  
cover the most egregious leaks.

Fair dinkum at $2.50 a pop.

Brian


On Nov 30, 2009 6:28pm, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:
> Word to the wise from someone who has done dumb things in the past, this  
> not
> being the worst of them, I'm afraid.
> TR3A leaks oil in the parking garage at work.B Put down a mat and  
> sprinkled
> with kitty litter.B I carry the kitty litter in a plastic jar in the  
> trunk.
Somehow the lid came unscrewed allowing the kitty litter to spill all over  
the
trunk.B Before I could vacuum it up, it rained and the trunk got wet inside.

Uhm...didB you know that kitty litter turns to mud????

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Nov 30 16:58:48 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 15:58:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] Kitty Litter
In-Reply-To: <291627276.9423021259623707210.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091130235847797.JFPS20286@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> The other is..."duh."

Wanna trade?  I once had a 5 gallon can of oil spill in the trunk ...

Randall

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Nov 30 17:36:49 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 19:36:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
References: <0800EB5E64AF42DF86A92535702D3E6D@bboffice>
Message-ID: <49506C6EB2E1476CB5AF6F01285D407D@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Ken Gilanders @ British Frame & Engine sells a very special unit produced in 
the U/K, mine is almost 7 years old right now and no leaks ever  FT
===============================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wbeech at flash.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 11:23 AM
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3


> Good morning List,
>
> I am wondering if there is anything better than the cork gasket for the
> stock chrome valve cover for my TR3A.  What are you using, stock from TRF,
> Moss, BPNW or some new space age material?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Mon Nov 30 17:59:30 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 19:59:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Kitty Litter
In-Reply-To: <20091130235847797.JFPS20286@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <291627276.9423021259623707210.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20091130235847797.JFPS20286@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30911301659o1a6a4350m625af06b8ad4a065@mail.gmail.com>

As a kid, I had a battery full of acid fall over in my boot. It took a lot
of baking soda....like a white mud..

Brian

On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 6:58 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > The other is..."duh."
>
> Wanna trade?  I once had a 5 gallon can of oil spill in the trunk ...
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Nov 30 18:21:36 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 20:21:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr- gauge repair
References: <c56.6a5fcca3.3844748a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2B2EE2E3FCAA4D52BCD31CA60AF77FFF@fred8kwiskhcfu>

NOT ==NISSONGER===, common nasty person   FT
=================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 8:06 PM
Subject: [TR] Tr- gauge repair


> List, can someone rec' a place to have some gauges repaired in the  
> northeast.  larry shwartz
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Bob at texmog.com  Mon Nov 30 18:40:08 2009
From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 19:40:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels
In-Reply-To: <E309A002F0FF441FABB082FBFEAB5F62@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <7CF5DE02E27E49A88AE60AFCAFF24F9B@CARROOM>

Ed, When I bought a set about four years ago I found all the suppliers to be
about the same price. I went with http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/  because
he checks them to insure they are true and actually has holds to a tighter
tolerance than even Dayton. He will also mount, balance and true the tires.

I've been very happy with his service.

 I recommended him to a friend who called him and was really impressed with
the time he spent on the phone helping him choose the right wheels and
tires.

Bob Nogueira

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods
> Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 10:12 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Dayton Wire Wheels
>
>
> List,
>
> What vendor has the best price on Dayton chrome wire wheels?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed Woods

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Nov 30 19:40:55 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 21:40:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] Kitty Litter
In-Reply-To: <291627276.9423021259623707210.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <a06240800c739d31ac011@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <4B143BE7.3705.2A53EF83@localhost>

On 30 Nov 2009 at 23:28, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

> Uhm...didB you know that kitty litter turns to mud????

Gosh, Terry.  If you'd just waited a few weeks you could have had 
snow.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Nov 30 19:40:54 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 21:40:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <1164BA4693EB4593A0176E2E06BB989B@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <4B143BE6.20186.2A53EF44@localhost>

On 30 Dec 2009 at 17:23, Wayne Lee wrote:

> Yes, the Spitfire Float Bowls are essential in getting it right.

Also consider the springs.  They must match the expected airflow.  If 
they were from a smaller engine, they will be too soft and the 
pistons will top out too soon.  This will make the mixture too rich 
at higher flow rates.  If they were from a larger engine they will be 
too stiff and the pistons won't open up enough.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Nov 30 22:06:48 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 21:06:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] MOSS Tank Sealer Removal - TR3A
Message-ID: <310456.12283.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Thanks Peter,     I derusted the original tank with muriatic acid and then
flushed it with water then lacquer thinner. This prevented any flash rusting.
The metal was bright & shiny and I assumed that this was good enough for
adhesion. Maybe it wasn't good enough.     After I get the current white
coating out, I am going KBS. The last time I used it (on my Mercedes) it was
wickedly adhesive and also put on a thick coating.     Sorry to bash MOSS on
this.
     -Bill
From: "Arakelian, Peter" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
Subject: [TR] MOSS Tank Sealer Removal - TR3A
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
    <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F1079C39E at kb1.mossmotors.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>12 years ago I slushed my TR3A gas tank with the white tank coating
that MOSS sells. Before sloshing, I derusted the tank with muriatic
acid, then flushed out with water/baking soda to neutralize the acid,
and then rinsed that with lacquer thinner so it was bright, clean and
shiny...Likewise, Peter Arakelian! Tell MOSS that your tank sealer
doesn't cut it
First - did you prep it properly?  Vendor recommends a heavy duty
cleaner, then an etcher to promote adhesion.  Like KBS does.
Removal - use MEK, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or take to a redi strip place to
have it boiled out.

And this formula is alcohol resistant.

Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6