[TR] Horn Problem

[Randall]

> I've tested voltage to the horns.

TR3 horns take more than voltage; they also need current and LOTS of it.  I
would suggest metering the power supply right at the horns while trying to
operate them.  If they aren't getting at least 11 volts, the problem is on
the supply side.

> But before I (omigod) remove the olive and pull the
> control head out of the stator tube

Probably you already know this; but JIC, it is not necessary to disturb the
olive in order to pull the control head out.  Just unclip the harness from
the inner fender and you should have enough slack to pull the control head
away from the steering wheel enough to work on it.  If you need more room,
disconnect the wires and pull them farther through the tube.  The stator
tube can stay in place.

However, I do feel it's slightly easier to remove the tube if you need to
remove the control head completely from the car, instead of having to fish
the wires back through the tube.

>, any other thoughts?

On my TR3A, I eventually traced the "reluctant horn" problem to a bullet
sleeve that was broken internally.  The inner spring clip had cracked and
was not making good contact to the bullet, even though the vinyl sleeve
looked fine.

Randall